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A35234 Historical remarques and observations of the ancient and present state of London and Westminster shewing the foundation, walls, gates, towers, bridges, churches, rivers ... : with an account of the most remarkable accidents as to wars, fires, plagues, and other occurrences which have happened therein for above nine hundred years past, till the year 1681 : illustrated with pictures of the most considerable matters curiously ingraven on copper plates, with the arms of the sixty six companies of London, and the time of their incorporating / by Richard Burton, author of The history of the wars of England. R. B., 1632?-1725? 1681 (1681) Wing C7329; ESTC R22568 140,180 238

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of the Common Law ●ow kept at Wallingford-House The next thing considerable is the Collegiate Church called Westminster-Abby or St. Peters It was ●aised out of the ruins of a Temple formerly dedicated to Apollo wherein there is King Henry VII's Chappel a magnificent and curious Edifice beautified with the stately Tombs of the Kings and Queens of England and many other Persons of Honour and Renown are buried in this Church and here the Kings of England are commonly crowned Then there is Somerset-house a large and stately ●tructure belonging to the King Northumberland house York-house now turned into Streets and Buildings the new Exchange stored with variety of Shops and Goods the Statue of K. Charles I. lately erected at Charing cross Salisbury-house now a fine Street the Savoy Arundel-house Bedford-house and divers other Places worth observing The Limits of Westminster end at Temple-Bar and there the bounds of London begin Westminfter is so mightily enlarged by the building of St. James's Fields and the adjaceat Places into stately large Streets that it is thought to be as big again as formerly To conclude London is the Epitome of England the Seat of the Brittish Empire the Chamber of the King the chiefest Emporium or Town of Trade in the World and to describe all things in it worthy to be known would make a Volume The City of London with the Suburbs and parts adjacent is from Lime-house to the end of Tothill street in Westminster East and West above 7500 Geometrical Paces or 7 English Miles and an half and from the further end of Blackman-street in Southwark to the end of Shoreditch North and South 2500 Paces or two Miles and an half Historical Remarks OF LONDON and WESTMINSTER PART II. ENgland in the time of the Saxons was divided into an Heptarchy or seven Kingdoms in the year of Christ 527. One of these Kingdoms contained Essex and Middlesex and continued about 281 years during the Reign of 14 Kings The third of whom was Sebert who built the Cathedral of St. Paul which had formerly been the Temple of Diana The ninth King was Sebba who after thirty years peaceable Reign relinquished the Crown and took upon him a Religions Habit in the Monastery of St. Paul where dying his Body was intombed in a Coffi● of Gray Marble and stood in the North Wall of the Chancel of the Church till the Fire in 1666. About 872. the Danes invaded this Kingdom and got into London making great spoil upon which King Elfred who then reigned compounded with them allowing them a great quantity of Land to secure the rest from Plunder and Ruine for we find these words in the end of the Laws published by this King Let the Bounds of our Dominion stretch from the River Thames and from thence to the Vale of Lea even unto the head of the same Water and so forth straight unto Bedford and finally going along by the River of Ouse let them end at Watling-street But the Danes ufurped daily upon other places so that King Elfred was many times forced to hide himself in the Fens and Marshes and with his small Company to live by Fishing Fowling and Hunting Wild Beasts for Food and being one time entertained alone in a Country man's house disguised in very mean attire as he was sitting by the Fire a Cake was baking on the Hearth before him but the King being intent in trimming his Bow and Arrows the Country woman coming in and seeing the Cake burn she furiously took the Bow from him and checking him as her Slave said Thou Fellow dost thou see the Bread burn before thy Face and wilt thou not turn it and yet mayest be glad to eat it before it be half baked Little suspecting him to be the man that used to be treated with more dainty Food This King more minding the Benefit of his Subjects than the Majesty of State disguised himself in the habit of a common Fidler and went in Person to the Danes Camp who lay wallowing in Wantonuess and Security and being a skilful Musician and a Poet he addded his Voice thereto singing Songs of the Valour of the Danes whereby he had admittance to the Company and Banquets of their chief Commanders and Princes and observing their carelesness and understanding their Designs he returns to his poor disconsolate Soldiers and tells them how easie it was to surprize their Enemies and thereby recover their ruined Country who immediately fell upon the Danes in their Camp and made a very great slaughter and pursuing their Victory they beat them in all Places and at last followed them to London from whence all the Danes fled The Inhabitants were very glad to see the Face of their King and he restored the City to its former Liberty and Splendor again the Danes making their escape by shipping into France In 982 the Danes again invade England and destroy all Places near the Shore Etheldred was then King whose elder Brother called the Martyr was treacherously murdered by his Mother-in-Law for the King being a hunting in the Isle of Purbeck went alone out of kindness to 〈◊〉 his Mother-in-Law and Brother who dwelt hard by where this cruel Woman out of ambition to bring her Son to the Crown caused one to run him into the back with a Knife as he was drinking a Glass of Wine on Horseback at his departing who feeling himself hurt set spurs to his Horse thinking to get to his Company but the Wound being mortal and he fainting through loss of Blood fell from his Horse and one Foot being entangled in the Stirrup he was dragged up and down through the Woods and afterward found dead and was buried at the Minster in Shaftsbury Etheldred was then crowned King by Dunstan Arch Bishop of Canterbury who at his Coronation denounced the wrath of God against him in these Words Because saith he thou hast aspired to the Crown by the death of thy Brother whom thy Mother hath murdered therefore hear the Word of the Lord The Sword shall not depart from thy House but shall furiously rage all the days of thy Life killing all thy Seed till such time as thy Kingdom shall be given to a People whose Customs and Language the Nation thou now governest know not Neither shall thy sin the sin of thy Mother nor the sins of those men who were Partakers of her Councils and Instruments of her wicked Designs be expiated and appeased but by long and most severe Vengeance Which Prediction was seconded by Prodigies for it is said that a Cloud of Blood and Fire appeared after his Coronation and miserable Calamities fell upon him and his House This King was neither forward nor fortunate in any of his undertakings so that he was called The Vuready he spent his Youth in debauchery his middle Age in carelesness and neglect of his Government maintaining Dissentions amongst his own Subjects and his latter end in resisting the blood thirsty Danes who made continual Destruction of his People
may be sheltred in side Porti co's the whole Fabrick cost above 50000 Pound one half paid by the Chamber of London and the other by the Company of Mercers There are 160 Shops above let at 20 l. Rent each and 30 l. Fine and several Shops below on every side and large Vaults underneath which yield considerable Rents so that it is the richest piece of ground perhaps in the World the ground whereon this goodly Fabrick is erected being but 171 foot from North to South and 203 foot from East to West very little more than three quatters of an Acre and products 4000 Pound yearly Rent Cornhill Ward begins at the West end of Leadenhall and so down to Finch-lane on one side and Birchin lane on the other half of which are in this Ward and so to the Stocks-Market In this Ward is the Church of St. Peters Cornhill counted the oldest in London and the Church of St. Michael both which with the greatest part of this Ward were burnt down but are since nobly rebuilt as well as the rest of the Streets St. Michael's Church had ten Bells formerly and John Stow writes thus I have heard my Father say saith he that upon St. James's night certain Men ringing the Bells in the Loft a Tempest of Thunder and Lightning did arise and a thing of an ugly Shape was seen to come in at the South Window which lighted on the North for fear whereof all the Ringers sell down as dead for a time letting the Bells cease of their own accord when they came to themselves they found certain Stones of the North Window razed and scratcht as if they had been so much Butter printed with a Lions Claw the same Stones were fastened there again when it was repaired and remain so to this day He adds That one VVilliam Rus or Rous gave a Bell to this Church to be rung nightly at 8 a Clock and for Knels and Peals which was rung by one Man for 160 years together In this Ward there is an Alderman his Deputy and five Common Council Men four Constables four Scavengers Wardmote Inquest sixteen and a Beadle 8. Langbourn VVard so called of a long Bourn of Water running out of Fenchurch-street down to the end of St. Mary VVoolnoth Church in Lumbard street then dividing into small Streams it left the name of Sherebourn-lane In this Ward is Fenchurch street Lumbard-street half Lime-street half Birchin-lane St. Clements-Lane down to St. Clements-Church St. Nicholas-Lane beyond St. Nicholas-Church Abchurch-Lane and part of Bearbinder-Lane Formerly St. Gabriel's Church stood in the middle of Fenchurch-street but was taken away since the Fire likewise St. Dionis Backchurch Alhallows Lumbard-street St. Edmund Lumbard-street St. Nicholas Acons and St. Mary VVoolnoth Church In it are six Parish Churches and Pewterers Hall in Lime-street there is an Alderman his Deputy and nine Commoa Council Men 15 Constables 9 Scavengers Wardmote Inquest 17 and a Beadle in this Ward The Post-Office is kept in Sir Robert Vyners House in this Ward most of which was burnt down and all the Churches but since rebuilt 9. Billingsgate VVard contains part of Thamestreet Rood land Puding lane Love lane Buttolph lane St. Margaret Fattons lane Billingsgate Somers Key Smarts Key Boss Alley St. Mary Hill-lane likewife five Charches St. Buttolph Billingsgate St. Mary Hill St. Margaret Pattons St. Andrew Hubbert and Saint George Buttolphs Lane This Ward was all burnt in 1666 but now rebuilt with most of the Churches There is an Alderman his Deputy and nine Common Council Men 11 Constables 6 Scavengers Wardmote Inquest 14 and a Beadle 10. Bridge-Ward within so called from London Bridge begins at the South end and comes over the Bridge up Fish-street hill to the North corner of Grace-Church In which were 4 Churches St. Magnus at the Bridge-Foot St. Margaret new Fish-street St. Leonard Eastcheap and St. Bennet Grace Church all these Churches and all the Ward except part of London-Bridge was burnt down two of which are rebuilt but upon the place where St. Margaret's Church stood there is erected by Act of Parliament a Pillar in perpetual Memory of the dreadful Fire in 1666 which first began in Pudding-Lane behind that Church This Monument is built after the Dorick Order 170 foot high all of solid Portland Stone with a Staircase in the middle of Stone coped with Iron with an Iron Balcony on the Top not unlike those two ancient white Pillars at Rome erected in honour of those two Excellent Emperors Trajan and Antoninus which though they were built above 1500 years ago are still standing entire the Pedestal of this Pillar is 43 foot square In the Bridge VVard are an Alderman his Deputy and 14 Common Council Men 15 Constables 6 Scavengers Wardmote Inquest 16 and a Beadle 11. Candlewick VVard begins at the East end of Great Eastcheap passeth West thro little Eastcheap into Cannon-street so to the North end thereof thence to the West end of St. Laurence Pountneys Church-yard part of St. Clements-Lane most part of St. Nicholas-Lane almost all Abchurch-Lane and most part of St. Martins-Lane are in this Ward It was wholly burnt down in 1666 but handsomely rebuilt There were in this Ward 5 Churches that is St. Clements-Eastcheap St. Mary Abchurch St. Michael Crooked-Lane where was the Monument of Sir VVilliam VValworth Lord Mayor who killed VVat Tyler St. Martins Orgars and St. Laurence Poultney which were all burnt down the three sirst are rebuilt and St. Martins is now a French Church This Ward hath an Alderman his Deputy and 7 Common Council Men 8 Constables 5 Scavengers Wardmote Inquest 12 and a Beadle 12 VValbrook VVard begins at the West end of Canon-street by Budge-row where is St. Swithins lane VValbrook the Stocks-Market four or five Houses in Lumbard-street Bearbinder lane and part of Bucklersbury This Ward was wholly destroyed by the Fire and six Churches that is St. Swithins in Canon-street St. Mary VVoolchurch St. Stephens VVallbrook St. John Evangelist and St. Mary Bothaw St. Swithins and St. Stephens VValbrook are handsomely rebuilt but St. Mary VVoolchurch the Church-yard and Stocks-Market are pulled down and made a handsome Market place in the Front whereof toward the Street is a Conduit and a Statue of King Charles II on Horseback with a Turk or Enemy under his Feet erected by Sir Robert Vyner This Ward hath an Alderman his Deputy and 7 Common Council Men 9. Constables six Scavengers Wardmote Inquest 15 and a Beadle In this Ward is Salters Hall 13. Dowgate VVard begins at the South end of VValbrook VVard over against the East corner of St. John Baptist's Church and goes on both sides the way to Dowgate wherein there were Elbow-lane Chequer-Alley Fryer-lane Grantham-lane the Stilyard Church-lane Alhollows-lane Cole-Harbour Ebgate-lane Bush-lane and Suffolk-lane This Ward was wholly consumed by the Fire and three Churches Alhallows the Great Alhollows the Less and St. Laurence-Poultney the first of which is again
demonstrate But when Marcus Asclepiodotus had slain him in Battel those French who remained alive after the Fight hastening to London would have plundred the City had not the River Thames who never fail'd to help the Londoners at need very happily brought the Roman Legions to their Assistance who put the Barbarians to the Sword all the City over About which time it is Recorded that Lucius Gallus was slain by a Brookside which ran almost through the City and of him was called by the Brittains Wantgall in English Walbrook which name remains to this day under which there is a Sewer within the ground to carry the Kennel water of the City into the Thames This is not far from London-stone which is thought to be a Milemark or Miliary such as were in the Market Places of Rome from which were taken dimensions of Journeys every way which seems the more probable because this Stone is near the midst of the City as it lyeth in length After this Julius Agricola the Roman Lieutenant perswaded the Brittains to build Houses for themselves and Temples for their Gods to bring up their Children in Learning and to Apparel themselves like Romans so that in a few years after our Saviours Nativity she became famous but especially for the multitude of Merchants Provision and Trade thereof as Cornelius Tacitus notes and was then called by some Authors Londinum by others Augusta under which name her Fame is celebrated by an Ancient Author which is thus Translated by Philemon Holland This City was Augusta call'd To which a truth to say Air Land Sea and all Elements Show favour every way The Weather no where milder is The Ground most rich to see Which yields all sorts of useful Fruit That never spent will be The Ocean that with Thames her Streams His flowing Tyde doth blend Conveys to it Commodities All that the World can send The Noble Seat of Kings it is For State and Royalty Of all the Realm the Fence the Heart The Life the Light the Eye The People Ancient Valorous Expert in Chivalry Enriched with all sorts of Goods Of Art or Mistery Take a strict view of every thing And then say thus in brief This either is a World it self Or of the World the Chief CHAP. II. The Ancient and present Walls and Gates of the City HIstorians report That about the year after Christ 306 Constantine the Great at the desire of his Mother Helena did first build a Wall about this City which may seem more probable considering that the Brittains did understand how to build Walls with Stone as may appear by the following Relation About the Year of Christ 399 when the Empire of Rome was invaded and that City destroyed by the Goths the Romans called away all their Forces from Brittain for the Defence of their own Countrey After which the Brittains being not able to defend themselves were for many years oppressed by two cruel Nations that is the Scots and Picts whereupon they sent Ambassadors with Letters full of Lamentable Supplications and Complaints to Rome to desire their assistance promising constant Obedience to them The Romans sent them a Legion of Souldiers who fought with their Enemies and drove them out of the Countrey And leaving the Brittains at Liberty they advised them to make a Wall cross the Countrey from one Sea to the other for their defence against their troublesome Neighbours and then the Romans returned home in Triumph The Brittains built this Wall in the North of England but wanting Masons they did not make it of Stone as the Romans directed but of Turf which was so weak that it was little Security to them For their Enemies perceiving the Romans were gone they presently came in Boats and invaded their Countrey ruining and wasting all before them Upon which Ambassadors were again sent with fresh Lamentations to Rome beseeching them not to suffer their miserable Countrey to be wholy destroyed The Romans then sent them another Legion who coming suddenly surprized their Enemies and made a great slaughter among them chasing them back again even to their own Countrey The Romans departing home again told the Brittains plainly that the Journey hither was long and troublesome and therefore they must expect no further help from them but must learn to use Armour and weapons themselves thereby to be able to resist their Enemies who were incouraged to invade them because of their Cowardice and Faintheartedness However for the incouragement of their Tributary Friends whom they were now forced to forsake the Romans made them a Wall of hard Stone from the West Sea to the East Sea and built two Cities at each end thereof the Brittains labouring therein also This Wall was built Eight Foot thick and twelve Foot high directly East and West as appears by the ruins to be seen at this day The work being finished the Romans gave them a strict charge to look to themselves and to instruct their People in the use of Arms and Millitary Discipline and least the Enemy should come by Sea Southward they made divers Bulwarks at some distance from each other by the Seaside And then bid the Brittains farewel as intending to return no more This happened in the Reign of Theodosius the younger near 500 years after the first Arrival of the Romans here and about the year of our Lord 434. The Brittains after this had several Skirmishes with the Picts and Scots and made Choice of Vortiger to be their King and Leader who is said to have been neither Wise nor Valiant being wholly given up to Lust and Debauchery And the People likewise having some rest from their Enemies ran into Gluttony Drunkenness Pride Contention Envy and all manner of Vice to the great scandal of their Christian Profession At which time a dreadful Pestilence fell upon them which destroyed such a multitude of them that the quick were not sufficient to bury the dead and yet those that remained alive continued so impenitent that neither the death of their Friends nor fear of their Enemies had any Effect upon them whereupon Divine Justice pursued them even almost to the Destruction of the whole sinful Nation For being now again in danger of utter ruin from their old Neighbours the Scots and Picts they consult with their King Vortiger what to do and at last conclude to call in the Saxons who soon after arrived in Brittain where saith Bede they were received as Friends For having driven out the Picts and Scots they likewise drove out the Brittains forcing some of them to fly over the Seas and others into the barren and waste Mountains of Wales and Cornwall The Saxons were likewise ignorant of building with Stone till the year 680. for it is affirmed that Bennet Abbot of Werral and Master to Reverend Bede first brought in Artificers for Stone houses and Glass Windows unknown before to the Saxons who built only with Wood. And to this Polychronicon agrees who speaking of those times saith
parts of the known world now for the preservation of the River Thames there is a Court of conservacy kept by the Lord Mayor and Aldermen of London under whom is a VVater Bayliff and other Officers they commonly fish eight times every year in the four Counties of Middlesx Surrey Kent and Essex where they have power to Impanel Juries and to make Inquisition into and punish all Offences committed upon the River within their Jurisdiction and Extent which begins at a place called Colny Ditch a little above Stanes-bridge Westward and from thence all along through London Bridge to a place called Yendal alias Yenleet and the waters of Medway near Chatham in Kent Eastward This River as we have say'd is full of all sorts of Excellent Fish as sweet Salmons after the time of the Smelt is past wherein no River in Europe exceeds it It hath likewise store of Barbels Trouts Chevins Pearches Smelts Breams Roches Daces Gudgeons Flounders Shrimps Eels c. only it seems not to be so stored with Carps except that by Land-Flonds they are sometimes brought out of Gentlemens Ponds There are great numbers of Swans dayly seen upon this River and above Two Thousand Wherries and small Boats whereby Three Thousand poor Watermen are maintained by carrying Goods and Passengers thereon besides those large Tilt-boats Tyde-boats and Barges which either carry People or bring Provision from all parts of the Counties of Oxford Berks Buchingham Bedford Hertford Middlesex Essex Surry and Kent to the City of London To conclude this famous River of Thames taking all her advantages together surpasseth all others that pay Tribute to the Ocean if we consider the streightness of its course the stilness of its streams considering its bredth as also its length running above Ninescore Miles before it comes into the Sea and the conveniency of its situation being toward the middle of England It hath likewise one peculiar property more that the entrance into this River is safe and easy to Englishmen and Natives but difficult and hazardous to Strangers either to go in and out without a Pilot insomuch that in the whole the Thames may be said to be Londons best Friend as may appear by a passage in the Reign of King James who being displeased with the City because they would not lend him a sum of money which he required and the Lord Mayor and Aldermen attending him one day being somewhat transported with Anger the King said He would remove his own Court with all the Records of the Tower and the Courts of Westminster Hall to another place with further expressions of his Indignation The Lord Mayor calmly heard all and at last Answered Your Majesty hath power to do what you please and your City of London will obey accordingly but she humbly desires that when your Majesty shall remove your Courts you would please to leave the River of Thames behind you having been thus long upon the Water 't is now time to Land and take a view of the great and stupendious Bridge which if the scituation and structure thereof be well considered may be said to be one of the Wonders of the World of which an Ingenious Gentleman deceased made this Poem When Neptune from his Billows London spy'd Brought proud'y thither by a High Spring Tyde As through a floating Wood he steer'd along And danc●●g Castles clustered in a Throng When he beheld a mighty Bridge give Law Unto his Surges and their Fury awe When such a Shelf of Cataracts did roar As if the Thames with Nyle had chang'd her Shore When he such Massy Walls such Towers did eye Such Posts such Irons on his back to lye When such vast Arches he observ'd that might Nineteen Rialto's make for depth and height When the Cerulean God these things surveyed He shook his Trident and astonisht said Let the whole world now all her wonders count This Bridge of wonders is the Paramount At first there was only a Ferry kept where the Bridge now is and the Ferry-man and his Wife dying left it to their only Daughter a Maiden named Mary who with the profits thereof and money left her by her Parents built a House for Nuns in the place where the East part of St. Mary Overies Church now stands above the Quire where she was buried and unto those Nuns she bequeathed the benefit and oversight of the Ferry but that being afterwards turned to a House of Priests they built a Bridge of Timber which they kept in good repair till at length considering the vast charge thereof by the contribution of the Citizens and others a Bridge was built of Stone Several Accidents have happened concerning this Bridge of which we shall mention some hereafter in the Reign of the several Kings In the first year of King Stephen a Fire began near London-stone and burnt stands in the Quire wher of she was buried to those Nuns she bequeathed the benefit and oversight of the Ferry but that being afterwards turned to a House of Priests they built a bridge of Timber which they kept in good repair till at length considering the vast charge thereof by the contribution of the Citizens and others a Bridge was built of Stone Several Accidents have happened to this Bridge In the first year of King Stephen a Fire began near London Stone and burnt East to Algate and West to St. Paul's Church the Bridge of Timber upon the Thames was also burnt but afterward repaired In 1163 it was rebuilt all of new Timber by Peter of Cole-Church a Priest which shews that there was a Timber Bridge 215 years before the Bridge of Stone was erected which was maintained partly by Gifts and partly by Taxes in every Shire In 1176 the Foundation of the Stone-Bridge was laid by the aforesaid Peter near the place of the Timber-Bridge but somewhat more to the West for we read that Buttolph's Wharf was at the end of London-Bridge the King assisted in the work to perform which the course of the River Thames was turned another way about by a Trench cast up for that purpose beginning in the East about Rotherhith and ending in the West at Battersea This Bridge with the Arches Chappel c. was 33 years in building and finished in 1209 by the worthy Citizens W. Serle Mercer W. Alman Senedict Botecorite who were Overseers of it for Peter of Cole-Church died four years before and as he principal Benefactor being buried in the Chappel on London-Bridge a Mason who was Master-workman of the Bridge built this large Chappel from the Foundation at his own Charge was which endowed for two Priests and four Clerks after the finishing the Chapel which was the first building on those Arches divers Mansion Houses were erected and many Lands Tenements and sums of Money were given toward the maintenance of the Bridge all which were ●ormerly registred in a Table for Posterity and bung up in the Chappel till it was turned into a dwelling House and was then