higher and higher towards the West and consists especially of one broad and very faire street which is the greatest part and sole ornament thereof the rest of the side streetes and allies being of poore building and inhabited with very poore people and this length from the East to the West is about a mile whereas the bredth of the City from the North to the South is narrow and cannot be halfe a mile At the furthest end towards the West is a very strong Castle which the Scots hold vnexpugnable Camden saith this Castle was of old called by the Britaines Castle meyned agnea by the Scots The Castle of the Maids or Virgines of certaine Virgines kept there for the Kings of the Picts and by Ptolomy the winged Castle And from this Castle towards the West is a most steepe Rocke pointed on the highest top out of which this Castle is cut But on the North South sides without the wals lie plaine and fruitfull fields of Corne. In the midst of the foresaid faire streete the Cathedrall Church is built which is large and lightsome but little stately for the building and nothing at all for the beauty and ornament In this Church the Kings seate is built some few staires high of wood and leaning vpon the pillar next to the Pulpit And opposite to the same is another seat very like it in which the incontinent vse to stand and doe pennance and some few weekes past a Gentleman being a stranger and taking it for a place wherein Men of better quality vsed to sit boldly entred the same in Sermon time till he was driuen away with the profuse laughter of the common sort to the disturbance of the whole Congregation The houses are built of vnpolished stone and in the faire streete good part of them is of free stone which in that broade streete would make a faire shew but that the outsides of them are faced with wooden galleries built vpon the second story of the houses yet these galleries giue the owners a faire and pleasant prospect into the said faire and broad street when they sit or stand in the same The wals of the City are built of little and vnpolished stones and seeme ancient but are very narrow and in some places exceeding low in other ruiued From Edenborow there is a ditch of water yet not running from the Inland but rising ofsprings which is carried to Lethe and so to the Sea Lethe is seated vpon a creek of the Sea called the Frith some mile from Edenborow and hath a most commodious and large Hauen When Monsieur Dessy a Frenchman did fortifie Lethe for the strength of Edenborow it began of a base Village to grow to a Towne And when the French King Francis the second had married Mary Queene of the Scots againe the French who now had in hope deuoured the possession of that Kingdome and in the yeere 1560. began to aime at the conquest of England more strongly fortified this Towne of Lethe but Elizabeth Queene of England called to the succour of the Lords of Scotland against these Frenchmen called in by the Queene soone effected that the French returned into their Countrey and these fortifications were demolished Erom Leth I crossed ouer the Frith which ebs and flowes as high as Striuelin to the Village King-korn being eight miles distant and seated in the Region or Country called Fife which is a Peninsule that is almost an Iland lying betweene two creekes of the Sea called Frith and Taye and the Land yeelds corne and pasture and seacoales as the Seas no lesse plentifully yeeld among other fish store of oysters shel fishes and this Countrey is populous and full of Noblemens and Gentlemens dwellings commonly compassed with little groues though trees are so rare in those parts as I remember not to haue seene one wood From the said Village King-korn I rode ten very long miles to Falkeland then the Kings House for hunting but of old belonging to the Earles of Fife where I did gladly see I ames the sixth King of the Scots at that time lying there to follow the pastimes of hunting and hawking for which this ground is much commended but the Pallace was of old building and almost ready to fall hauing nothing in it remarkeable I thought to haue ridden from hence to Saint Andrewes a City seated in Fife and well known as an Vniuersity and the seate of the Archbishop But this iourney being hindred I wil onely say that the Bishop of Saint Andrewes at the intercession of the King of Scotland Iames the third was by the Pope first made Primate of all Scotland the same Bishop and all other Bishops of that Kingdome hauing formerly to that day beene consecrated and confirmed by the Archbishop of Yorke in England Likewise I purposed to take my iourney as farre as Striuelin where the King of the Scots hath a strong Castle built vpon the front of a steepe Rocke which King Iames the sixth since adorned with many buildings and the same hath for long time beene committed to the keeping of the Lords of Eriskin who likewise vse to haue the keeping of the Prince of Scotland being vnder yeeres And from thence I purposed to returne to Edenborow but some occasions of vnexpected businesse recalled me speedily into England so as I returned presently to Edenborow and thence to Barwicke the same way I came I adde for passengers instruction that they who desire to visit the other Counties of England and Ireland may passe from Edenborow to Carlile chiefe City of Comberland in England and so betweene the East parts of Lancashire and the West parts of Yorke and then through Darbyshire Nottinghamshire Warwickeshire Staffordshire and Chesshire may take their iourney to the City Westchester whence they shall haue commodity to passe the Sea to Dablin in Ireland and while they expect this passage they may make a cursory iourney into Flintshire and Caernaruenshire in Northwales to see the antiquities thereof or otherwise may goe directly to Holy Head and thence make a shorter cut to Dublyn in Ireland From Dublyn they may passe to see the Cities of the Prouince Mounster whence they may commodiously passe to the South parts of Wales and there especially see the antiquities of Merlyn and so taking their iourney to the West parts of England may search the antiquities of these seuerall Counties and easily find commoditie to passeinto the West parts of France And all this circuit beginning at London may with ordinary fauourable winds according to the season of the yeere be easily made from the beginning of March to the end of September Alwaies I professe onely to prescribe this course to such as are curious to search all the famous monuments and antiquities of England mentioned in Camdens compleat description thereof CHAP. VI. Of the manner to exchange Moneys into forraine parts and the diuers moneys of diuers parts together with the diuers measures of miles in sundry Nations most necessary
Army in this estate during this time That the assurance the Irish had receiued of succours from Spaine was the onely fewell of the last blaze of this Rebellion Therefore praying that except Master Secretary had some certainety that Spaine would not at that time assist the Rebels the Army might by all meanes be strengthened which would be necessary if such assistance were sent and would make an end of the warres if none were sent And howsoeuer that befell yet for preuention of Munition and such supplies to be furnished to the Rebels from Spaine aduising that some few of the Queenes ships might lie on the West and somewhat towards the North of Ireland Adding that some little boats made both to row and to saile would barre the Ilander Scots from supplying the Rebels with any munition And that his Lordship to meet with the Earle of Ormond lately set free by Ony mac Rory who had taken him Prisoner that day tooke his iourney towards Carlogh where he hoped to sound the bottome of the conditions of his deliuery with the best course how to disintangle him and by his conference to make a shrewd guesse how the Earle stood affected in these doubtfull times His Lordship in his next Letters aduertised into England that he was not priuy nor consenting to the giuing of pledges at the Earle of Ormonds deliuery but since they were giuen in regard of her Maiesties extraordinary care for the Earles liberty he did not shew any manifest dislike thereof and now conceiued the Earle did apprehend the indignity done to him by those base traitors and therefore had such a spleene against them as hee had ioyned with him in diuers plots as well to recouer the pledges wherein the Earle protested to spare no money if they were so to be redeemed besides that he and their Fathers protested that their danger should not hinder them from doing their vttermost seruice to the Queene as also to worke his reuenge vpon the Rebels At this time Tyrone attending the garrison at Loughfoyle Odonnel starting through Connaght into Thomond and spoyling both Countries Sir Samuel Bagnoll drew out of the Newry into Monaghan where he tooke a prey and killed sixe Commanders and some sixty of the common rebels onely three of his being staine and twenty hurt The subiects of the Pale fearing belike to be complained on for the small assistance they gaue to the Queenes seruice sent ouer the Lord of Howth and Sir Patricke Barnewell to make first complaint after the Irish manner of the wrongs done them by the Army neuer acquainting the Lord Deputy and Counsell therewith And notwithstanding their former vnwillingnes to beare any charge for the Queenes seruice now they were content for these their Deputies expence in England to cesse euery plow land at three shillings From the seuenth of Iuly to the twelfth Sir Oliuer Lambert with some troopes lay encamped at the Tougher in Ophalia where he made a Causey and built a Fort and thereleft a Guard to keepe the passage alwaies open for the victualling of Phillipstowne Fort in which seruice the Earle of Southampton as a voluntary by his presence and valour much encouraged our men At this time many of the Rebels in Lemster and the Northerne borders made sute to the Lord Deputy to be receiued to mercy with offer of large summes of money to the Lord Deputy for their pardons but his Lordship refused their offer till they had first done some seruice and had drawne blood against some of their confederates Thus much his Lordship aduertised into England the sixteenth of Iuly as likewise a good seruice presently done and a great prey taken in the Fuse by Sir Richard Moryson the Gouernour of Dundalke The same twelfth of Iuly his Lordship tooke his iourney towards the borders of the North vpon hearing that Tyrone was drawne into those parts There his Lordship intended to spoyle the corne as likewise in all other parts when it should be a little riper Mac Mahowne and Patricke mac Art Moyle offered now to submit but neither could be receiued without the others head But Oconnor Roe mac Gaire for good respects of seruice was at the same time receiued to mercy His Lordship hearing that Tyrone contained himselfe in his fastnes and being requited out of England to attempt something vpon the Lemster Rebels left the Northerne borders strongly guarded against any inuasion and left order with the Counsell to hasten the generall hoasting and make ready all prouisions for a iourney into the North and leauing Dublyn the twelfth of August rode to the Nasse and so marched to the Fort of Phillipstowne in Ophaly with fiue hundred sixty foote and sixty horse besides voluntaries in his company In the way into Leax his Lordship tooke a prey of two hundred Cowes seuen hundred garrons and fiue hundred sheepe besides great store of small cattell The sixeteenth of August his Lordship burning the Countrey and spoyling the corne marched towards the passage one of the most dangerous in Ireland where Sir Oliuer Lambert with the Forces he had was to meet him Both of them fought all the way and killed diuers rebels whereof the Lord Deputy left fifteene dead in the place besides many hurt they met together at noone The seuenteenth day the army marched towards a fastnes where the rebels had stored great plenty of corne At the entry there was a Foard compassed in with woods and a bogge betweene them where the rebels let the vanguard of the horse passe but his Lordship passing with a few gentlemen and his owne seruants before the vanguard of the foote the rebels began the skirmish with him and the foote wings being slowly sent out they came close vp to him the traytor Tyrrel hauing appointed an hundred shot to wait on his Lorships person with markes to know him In this skirmish we killed thirty fiue rebels and hurt seuenty fiue on our part two onely being killed and a few slightly hurt Captaine Masterson dangerously hurt in the knee and his Lordship hauing a very good horse killed vnder him and another killed vnder Master Iohn Chidley a gentleman of his Lordships chamber But the best seruice at that time done was the killing of Owny mac Rory a bloody and bold yong man who lately had taken the Earle of Ormond prisoner and had made great stirres in Mounster He was the chiefe of the O Mores Sept. in Leax and by his death they were so discouraged that they neuer after held vp their heads Also a bold bloody rebell Callogh mac Walter was at the same time killed Besides that his Lordships staying in Leax till the twenty three of August did many other waies weaken them for during that time he fought almost euery day with them and as often did beate them Our Captaines and by their example for it was otherwise painefull the common souldiers did cut downe with their swords all the Rebels corne to the value of ten thousand pound and
was aduertised that Sir Henrie Poore had scattered and broken three hundred rebels in Lease and had beggered them by diuers preyes of cattell taken from them and among them being of the Sept of O Mores had killed burnt and hanged forty at least and after had slaine in fights O Connor Mac Lyre and most of his men and hurt many of those which escaped And this day great store of victuals for the Forts came from the Newry with a conuoy safely to the Campe. The thirtieth day his Lordship rose with the Armie and marched Northward backe to the new Fort of Blackwater and beyond it in all some three miles along the South side of the Riuer and there his Lordship incamped close vpon the Bogges and the Fastnesses or fortified passages in the Wood. The same euening his Lordship drew some choise men out of euery Regiment and some troopes of horse and with them rode to view the Countrie and woody paces more specially that pace which lay right before vs Northward where the neerest and best passage was to enter Tyrone the Arch-traytors chiefe house Dangannon being some tenne miles distant to which after the passage of this pace and Blackwater the plaine Countrie lay open yet being in some parts boggy Here Tyrones men lay intrenched on the other side of the Riuer in such trenches as he had made to impeach the building of our new Fort at Blackwater and cowardly quitted them as is aboue mentioned The Rebels bestowed some vollies of shot on his Lordships troopes but they returned safely hauing onely one man hurt And here one of the three Trumpets in Tyrones pay ran from him to our Campe. The one and thirtieth day his Lordship drew out as before and that day and the first of August next following cut downe the Wood to cleare the said pace lying betweene vs and the said passage ouer Blackwater And this day the rebels attempted to cut off a guard which we had placed on a remote hill to second the workemen cutting the Wood but were by them and the workemen stoutly receiued and by our seconds beaten backe At the same time by accident we had almost lost all our best horses for at the Alarum giuen the horses being frighted with the skirmish and with diuers horsemen hurrying out to answere the Alarum broke their headstals and ran backe to Armagh and some of the best as farre as the Newry whether our men following did recouer them all but had the rebels horsemen followed them no doubt they might haue caught them and defeated our men loosely following them and so by this aduantage haue done vs more mischiefe then they could otherwise haue done with their forces doubled The second of August his Lordship with the Army rose and marched backe to Armagh to the end he might shun all paces and from thence haue an open passage into Art Mac Barons Countrie We marched sixe miles to Armagh and three to Rawlagh where while we incamped Sir Henry Dauers with three hundred foote and fortie horse was sent into a Fastnesse to burne some twentie faire timber houses which he performed and about the time to set the watch hee returned towards the Campe and at his retreat all Tyrones Forces guarded with three hundred horse skirmished with our men but they seconded out of the Campe came off orderly the rebels following them to our very Campe into which they powred a volley of shot and by reason of the Fastnesses adioyning and night approaching retired in safety Here his Lordship was aduertised that the Earle of Ormond had executed in the borders of Kilkenny and Tiperary nine and twenty rebels of which Tybot Leyragh Butler and Dauid Bourk and Vlicke Bourke were the chiefe and that the Company vnder his Lordships command had slaine eight and twentie of which two principall men of the Omores one Okelly one Captaine Edmund Roe Bourke and one Richard Bourke sonne to Vlicke were the chiefe The third of August we rose and hauing marched three miles backe we incamped betweene the paces and Armagh a little beyond Armagh towards the North to the and our messengers and our conuoyes for victuals might more safely passe which was the chiefe end of our returning and that we might haue better grasse for our horses all the higher Country aboue being eaten by the rebels Creaghs or cattell and al the way we marched the rebels in their fastnesses drew downe closeby and followed vs all the way being very strong Here the Commissary tooke a view of the Army in field with his Lordship Regiments First of Sir Beniamin Berry his Lordships Lieutenant of his foote in List 825 by pole present in the Campe 490. 2. Regiment of Sir Oliuer Saint Iohns in List 875 by Pole 533. 3. Regiment of Sir Hen. Folliot in List 500 by Pole 305. 4. Regiment of Sir Christopher Saint Laurence in Lyst 750 by Pole 400. Totall in List 2950 by Pole 1728 Herein are not contained either Officers present or the sicke or hurt or vpon other occasions absent The fourth day some Companies were drawne out to cut the pace of Armagh and the rebels being in sight offered not to skirmish with them But towards night they drew downe strong out of the woods to an hil vnder which we lay encamped in a faire meadow They came with cries and sound of Drummes and bagpipes as if they would attempt the campe and powred into it some two or three thousand shot hurting onely two of our men But his Lordship commanding that none in the Campe should stirre had lodged in a trench some foure hundred shot charging them not to shoot till the rebels approached neere And after these our men had giuen them a volly in theirteeth they drew away and we heard no more of their Drummes or Bagpipes but onely mournefull cries for many of their best men were slaine and among the rest one horseman of great accompt and one Pierce Lacy an Archrebell of Mounster The next morning we found some dead bodies at the skirt of the wood and three scattered peeces Hence his Lordship sent direction to Sir Iohn Barkeley to bring with him to the Campe a regiment from the Annaly Liseannon because Tyrone was growne strong by the comming to him of his Mac Guire and his Mac Mahownd and of Cormocke mac Baron comming to him from the frontires of Loughfoyle The fifth day his Lordship sent againe some shot with Pyoners to cut the pace close by the Rebels The sixth day his Lordship purposed to rise and meet our Conuoy bringing victuals from the Newry but being staied by ill weather sent early some horse to stay the Conuoy till his Lordship drew downe towards those parts This day his Lordship gaue order to Master Treasurer that proportions of new monies should be sent to all the Market Townes to change the same for sterling and that Proclamations should be made in them to decry the old sterling monies and onely make the new to be
there can hardly be giuen a more certain signe of loue or contempt then thr frequent rare or no writing or especially answering of Letters whereof the Italians haue a Prouerbe Chiscriue a chi non responde O egli èmatto o egli ha di bisogno Who writes to him that answers not againe He is a foole or neede doth him constraine 11 When he wil obserue the scituation of any City let him if he may without ielousie of the Inhabitants first climbe one of the highest steeples where hauing taken the generall scituation of the City he shall better remember in order the particular things to be seene in the City To which end let him carry about him a Dyall which may shew him the North South East and West which knowne he shall lesse erre in the description of the City and this he may obserue publikely onely with his eyes for auoiding of ielousie and after being retired into his Inne may draw it in paper if he thinke good And lest for the want of a guide to shew the markeable things in each City he should omit any thing worth sight let him confidently visit some chiefe Doctor or man of principall account especially in Germany where they are most affable For if he shall say that hee comes to see them as the liuing monuments of that City I will be bold to promise that they will giue him a guide to shew him any thing worth sight and to instruct him in such things as are fit for him to know For as Weomen easily beleeue such as tell them that they are faire though indeed they bee deformed so men of best quality will easily beleeue that their name is knowne among strangers and they take these visitations for honours done vnto them yea many especially in some places are vitiously proud that their neighbours should see strangers thus visit them 12 Many desire to haue their Countreymen and friends to bee their companions in these their iourneys And it is well said Comes saeundus in via pro vehiculo A pleasant consort by the way Is like a Coach that glides away But why should he not rather desire consorts of the same Nation of whom he may learne the language and all other things worthy to be obserued My selfe could neuer see any profitably spend their time abroade who flocked together with their owne Countreymen neither doe I attribute the little proficiency of the Germans and their giuing themselues to drinke euen amongst the sober Italians to any thing more then to their liuing together in forraigne parts For an Italian conuersing abroad with Italians shall neuer learne bashfull chastity How shall any man cast off a vice proper to his Nation it he doe not disuse it by little and little which he shall hardly doe among his Countrey-men inclined thereunto Neither is there danger of learning forraigne vices by leauing to conuerse with his Countrey men so hee propound to himselfe the foresaid end to learne vertues and cast off vices and if he bend himselfe wholly to attaine that end Moreouer in places of danger for difference of Religion or proclaimed warre whosoeuer hath his Countrey-man or friend for his companion doth much increase his danger aswell for the confession of his companion if they chance to be apprehended as for other accidents since he shall be accomptable and drawne into danger aswell by his companions words or deeds as by his owne And surely there happening many dangers and crosses by the way many are of such intemperate affections as they not onely diminish the comfort they should haue from this consort but euen as Dogs hurt by a stone bite him that is next not him that cast the stone so they may perhaps out of these crosses grow to bitternes of words betweene themselues yea sometimes filthily end their old friendship with new iniuries if not in single combates Besides if this deare friend and consort should happen to dye by the way and if other ill accidents should increase this euill whereof many may bee imagined as namely if by dying among enemies or Pagans hee cannot haue so much as the honour of a graue surely I speake by experience nothing can bee added to this calamity This griefe threatens sicknesse vnto thee and to how many ills that State is subiect in forraigne parts I shall shew in the Precept of preseruing health And this euent will take from thee all the pleasure of remembring thy dangers past after thou returnest home yea will make that bitter vnto thee which vseth to bee most comfortable to others Therefore I commend the English who withdraw themselues from consorting with their Countri-men abroad not shunning them vnnaturally out of hate but onely lodging in diuers houses and onely spending some howers of the weeke in their company to nourish acquaintance that they may bestow the rest of the time among those of the same Country wherein they liue and so better their language and learne the state of the Countrie For my part if I were to suffer ill I had rather be alone then haue a friend partner with me howsoeuer the Poet saith Solamen miseris soicos habuisse doloris The miserable man doth grieue the lesse If he haue partners in his sad distresse Which is to bee vnderstood of enemies or vnknowne partners for I cannot thinke that my torment could bee asswaged by the like miserie of my friend Others obiect that it is the vnspeakeable comfort of marriage that man and wife like well paired Heyfers beare all burthens together Surely if other kinds of ill could bee diuided into equall parts as burthens may I might bee of their opinion but many kindes of ill are like the soule which is all in the whole body and all in euery part thereof neither is the torment of the soule eased by the bodies suffering with it Therefore if I were to suffer pouerty banishment or torment I had rather bee a single man then married since the compassion of my wifes and childrens suffering with me would infinitely increase my misery These things being granted I confesse it followes for of contraries the consequence is contrary that the Traueller is to impart his good successes to his friends whereof Cicero in the dreame of Scipio so disputes as if a man seeing all the pleasures of Paradice could take no delight therein if he were alone and had no man with whom he might communicate them But in conclusion since Trauellers meet with more dangers then pleasures it is most fit for them to take such consorts abroad as the way yeelds and to deferre the imparting of their good successes to their friends till their happy returne home at which time as their absence hath sharpened their friends desire to see them so the discourse of these pleasant accidents may sweeten their conuersation 13 In stead of a companion let the Traueller haue alwayes with him some good Booke in his pocket as wee reade that Alexander the Great laied Homer
a stranger and a boat daily passeth from Stode thither in some three houres space if the winde bee not contrary wherein each man paies three Lubecke shillings for his passage but all Passengers without difference of condition must help to rowe or hire one in his stead except the winde bee good so as they need not vse their Oares besides that the annoyance of base companions will easily offend one that is any thing nice Hamburg is a Free Citie of the Empire and one of them which as I said are called Hansteten and for the building and populousnesse is much to be praised The Senate house is very beautifull and is adorned with carued statuaes of the nine Worthies The Exchange where the Merchants meet is a very pleasant place The Hauen is shut vp with an iron chaine The Citie is compassed with a deepe ditch and vpon the East and North sides with a double ditch and wall Water is brought to the Citie from an Hil distant some English mile by pipes of wood because those of lead would be broken by the yce and these pipes are to bee seene vnder the bridge whence the water is conuaied by them vnto each Citizens house The Territory of the Citie extendeth a mile or two and on one side three miles out of the walles It hath nine Churches and six gates called by the Cities to which they lead It is seated in a large plaine and a sandy soyle but hath very fatte pasture ground without On the South side and some part of the West it is washed with the Riuer Elue which also putteth a branch into the Towne but on the North and somewhat on the East side the Riuer Alster runneth by towards Stode and falleth into the Elue The streets are narrow excepting one which is called Broad-street vulgarly Breitgasse The building is all of bricke as in all the other Sea-bordering Cities lying from these parts towards Flanders and all the beautie of the houses is in the first entrance hauing broad and faire gates into a large Hal the lower part whereof on both sides is vsed for a Ware-house and in the vpper part lying to the view of the doore the chiefe houshold-stuffe is placed and especially their vessell of English Pewter which being kept bright makes a glittering shew to them that passe by so as the houses promise more beauty outwardly then they haue inwardly Here I paid each meale foure Lubeck shillings and one each night for my bed The Citizens are vnmeasurably ill affected to the English to whom or to any stranger it is vnsafe to walke out of the gates after noone for when the common people are once warmed with drinke they are apt to doe them iniury My selfe one day passing by some that were vnloading and telling of Billets heard them say these words Wirft den zehenden auff des Englanders kopf that is cast the tenth at the Englishmans head But I and my companions knowing well their malice to the English for the remouing their trafficke to Stode were content silently to passe by as if we vnderstood them not Hence I went out of the way to see Lubeck an Imperiall Citie and one of the aboue named Hans-townes being tenne miles distant from Hamburg Each of vs for our Coach paid twentie Lubeck shillings and going forth early wee passed through a marish and sandy plaine and many woods of Oakes which in these parts are frequent as woods of Firre be in the vpper part of Germany and hauing gone six miles we came to a Village called Altslow for the situation in a great marish or boggy ground where each man paid for his dinner fiue Lubeck shillings and a halfe our Dutch companions contributing halfe that money for drinke after dinner In the afternoone we passed the other foure miles to Lubeck in the space of foure houres and vntill we came within halfe a mile of the towne wee passed through some thicke woods of Oake with some faire pastures betweene them for the Germans vse to preserue their woods to the vttermost either for beautie or because they are so huge frequent as they cannot be consumed When we came out of the woods wee saw two faire rising Hills and the third vpon which Lubeck was feated On the top of this third Hill stood the faire Church of Saint Mary whence there was a descent to all the gates of the Citie whose situation offered to our eyes a faire prospect and promised great magnificence in the building The Citie is compassed with a double wall one of bricke and narrow the other of earth and broad fastned with thicke rowes of willowes But on the North side and on the South-east side there were no walles those parts being compassed with deepe ditches full of water On the South-east side the water seemeth narrow but is so deepe as ships of a thousand tunne are brought vp to the Citie to lie there all winter being first vnladed at Tremuren the Port of the City lying vpon the Baltick Sea To this Port one mile distant from Lubeck we came in three houres each man paying for his Coach fiue Lubeck shillings and foure for our dinner and returned backe the same night to Lubeck The building of this City is very beautifull all of bricke and it hath most sweete walkes without the walles The Citizens are curious to auoid ill smels to which end the Butchers haue a place for killing their beasts without the walles vpon a running streame Water is brought to euery Citizens house by pipes and all the Brewers dwelling in one street haue each of them his iron Cock which being turned the water fals into their vessels Though the building of this towne be of the same matter as that of the neighbouring townes yet it is much preferred before them for the beautie and vniformitie of the houses for the pleasant gardens faire streets sweete walkes without the walles and for the Citizens themselues who are much commended for ciuilty of manners and the strict execution of Iustice. The poore dwell in the remote-streets out of the common passages There is a street called the Funst Haussgasse that is the street of fiue houses because in the yeere 1278. it was all burnt excepting fiue houses since which time they haue a law that no man shall build of timber and clay except he diuide his house from his neighbours with a bricke wall three foot broad and that no man shall couer his house with any thing but tiles brasse or leade The forme of this Citie is like a lozing thicke in the midst and growing narrower towards the two ends the length whereof is from the gate called Burke Port towards the South to Millen Port towards the North. Wee entred the Towne by Holtz Port on the West side to which gate Hickster Port is opposite on the East side It is as long againe as broad and two streets Breitgasse that is Broad-street and Konnigsgasse that is Kings-street runne the whole
halfe long and about three quarters broad and little or nothing thicker then a French crowne They shew also foure Crosses of pure gold which they said a certaine Queene once tooke from them but presently fell lunatike neither could be cured vntill she had restored them In the open streets some Monuments are set on the walles in honour of certaine Citizens who died in a nights tumult when the Duke hoped to surprize the City I said that the Senate house is stately built in which they shew to strangers many vessels of gold and siluer of a great value and quantity for a City of that quality From Luneburg I returned to Hamburg whither I and my company might haue had a Coach for 4. Dollors But we misliking the price hired a waggon for three Lubeck shillings each person to Wentzon three miles distant from Luneburg Here the Duke of Lunebergs territory ends to whom each man paid a Lubeck shilling for tribute my selfe onely excepted who had that priuiledge because I went to study in the Vniuersities Here each man paied two Lubeck shillings for a Waggon to the Elue side being one mile and the same day by water wee passed other three miles to Hamburg not without great noy somnesse from some base people in the boat for which passage we paied each man three Lubeck shillings Let me admonish the Reader that if when we tooke boat we had onely crossed the Elue we might haue hired a Waggon from Tolspecker a Village to Hamburg being three miles for two Dollors amongst six persons Being at Hamburg and purposing to goe vp into Misen because I had not the language I compounded with a Merchant to carry mee in his Coach and beare my charges to Leipzig for tenne gold Guldens The first day hauing broke our faste at Hamburg we passed seauen miles ouer the Heath of Luneburg and lodged in a Village In our way we passed many Villages of poore base houses and some pleasant groues but all the Countrey was barren yet yeelded corne in some places though in no plenty The second day we came to a little City Corneiler through a Countrey as barren as the former and towards our iourneis end wee passed a thicke wood of a mile long The third day we went seuen miles to Magdenburg which is counted sixe and twenty miles from Hamburg and this day we passed a more fertile Countrey and more wooddy and they shewed me by the way an Hill called Bockesberg famous with many ridiculous fables of Witches yeerely meeting in that place This City of old called Parthenopolis of Venus Parthenea is now called Magdenburg that is the City of Virgins for an Inland City is very faire and the Germans speake much of the fortification because Mauricius Elector of Saxony besieged it a whole yeere with the Emperour Charles the fifth his Army yet tooke it not Howbeit I thinke that not so much to bee attributed to the strength of the City as to the distracted mind of the besieger who in the meane time sollicited the French King to ioyne with the Dutch Princes to free Germanie from the Emperours tyranny and the French Army being once on foot himselfe raised forces against the Emperour The forme of this City is like a Moone increasing the Bishopricke thereof is rich and the Margraue of Brandeburg his eldest sonne did then possesse it together with the City and territory by the title of Administrator in which sort he also held the Bishopricke of Hall and he lay then at Wormested a Castle not farre of In the market place there is a Statua erected to the Emperour Otho the Great founder of that City and Munster writes of another statua erected to Rowland which I remember not to haue seene In the Senate-house they shewed a singular picture made by one Lucas a famous Painter dead some thirty yeeres before where also is the picture of that monstrous German with all the dimensions of his body who not long before was led about the world to be shewed for a wonder This man I had not seene but in this picture I could scarce reach the crowne of his head with the point of my rapier and many of good credit told me that they had seene this mans sister halfe an ell higher then he In the Church that lies neere the market place there is a Font of great worth and a Lute painted with great Art the Cathedrall Church of Saint Maurice was built by Otho the Great very sumptuously where his wife lies buried in the yeere 948. and the inscription is that shee was daughter to Edmund King of England There they shew one of the three vessels in which our Sauiour Christ turned water into wine at Cana in Galile There be in all ten Churches but the aboue named are the fairest Hence we went foureteene miles to Leipzig being a day and a halfes iourney through fruitfull corne fields and a Countrey full of rich Villages the Merchant with whom I went bearing my charges from Hamburg I might haue hired a Coach to Leipzig for sixe persons those of Nurnburg bearing eight for 24. dollers and if a man goe thence to Luneburg he may easily light on a Coach of returne at a lesse rate so that in respect of the cheapnes of victuals in these parts no doubt I gaue the Merchant too much for my charges in this iourney Leipzig is seated in a plaine of most fruitfull corne ground and full of rich Villages in a Countrey called Misen subiect to the Elector Duke of Saxony and the Countrey lying open to the eye in a most ample prospect onely one wood can be seene in this large plaine The streets are faire the market place large and stately and such are the chiefe houses built of free stone foure roofes high there is a conuenient conduit of water in the Suburbs lying towards Prage the ditch is dry the wals of stone threaten ruine neither may the Citizens fortifie the Towne nor vse red waxe in their publike seales nor winde a Horne in their night watches as other Cities doe these and other priuiledges being taken from them in the yeere 1307. when they killed their Duke Ditzmanus in Saint Thomas Church Out of this City they haue as many Cities in Germany haue a beautifull place to bury their dead called Gods-aker vulgarly Gotts-aker where the chiefe Citizens buy places of buriall proper to their families round about the Cloisters and the common sort are buried in the midst not couered with any building Here I found this Epitaph the numerall Letters whereof shew the yeere when the party died FoeLIX qVI In DoMIno nIXVs ab orbe fVgIt And like Epitaphs are ordinarily found through Germany This Citie hath an Vniuersity and in the yeere 1480. the Students of Prage remoued hither to flie the Hussites warre but at this day the Vniuersitie is much decayed by reason that Wittteberg lieth neere hauing better conueniency for the Schollers liuing From hence I
write any lies but that which I write is as true as strange When I returned into England some foure yeeres after I would not open the barrell I sent from Prage nor looke on the paper Booke in which I had written this dreame till I had called my sisters and some friends to be witnesses where my selfe and they were astonished to see my written dreame answere the very day of my Fathers death I may lawfully sweare that which my kinsmen haue heard witnessed by my brother Henry whilst he liued that in my youth at Cambridge I had the like dreame of my Mothers death where my brother Henry lying with me early in the morning I dreamed that my mother passed by with a sad countenance and told me that shee could not come to my commencement I being within fiue moneths to proceed Master of Arts and shee hauing promised at that time to come to Cambridge And when I related this dreame to my brother both of vs awaking together in a sweat he protested to me that he had dreamed the very same and when wee had not the least knowledge of our Mothers sickenesse neither in our youthfull affections were any whit affected with the strangenesse of this dreame yet the next Carrier brought vs word of our mothers death Being as I haue said certified of my Fathers death at Nurnberg and thinking not fit to goe on my iourney into Italy and yet being loath to returne into England before I had finished my purposed voyage I tooke the middle counsell to returne into the Low Countries that in those neere places I might dispose of my small patrimony for in England gentlemen giue their younger sonnes lesse then in forraine parts they giue to their bastards and so might leaue the same in the hands of some trusty friend Yet lest I should loose the opportunity of seeing Augsburg meaning to returne some other way into Italy I resolued to goe from hence to Augsburg and then to crosse ouer the West parts of Germany and so to passe along the Riuer Rhein into the Low Countries To Augsburg being two dayes iourney and a halfe I hired of the City Carrier in whose company I went an Horse for two Dollors as I remember The Merchants of Nurnberg and Augsburg giue pensions to eight of these Carriers daily passing betweene those Cities besides the profit they make of letters and other things they carry by horse The first day after breake-fast we rode one mile in a thicke wood and another mile through sandy corne fields somewhat wooddy both in the territory of the Nurnbergers and foure miles more in the territory of the Margraue of Anspach to Blinfield where each man paid for his supper and horse meat sixe batzen The second day we rode foure miles to Monheime through a wood of Iuniper full of blacke berries and barberies at the end whereof was a free City called Wassenberge and after through fruitfull hils and valleies of corne all the territory excepting the free City belonging to the Marshall of the Emperour not of the Empire when we came almost to our iourneies end the Carrier had a guide giuen him according to custome for theeues vsing to lie by that way Monheime belongs to the Phaltz-graue of Newburg being of the family of the Phaltz-graues of Rhein and there we paid each man for his dinner and horse-meat thirty foure creitzers which make eight batzen and a halfe and there we tasted Iuniper wine which I neuer remember to haue tasted else where After dinner we rode two miles and a halfe through fruitfull hils of corne and a small wood of Okes though all the woods of vpper Germany be commonly of firre bearing greene leaues all winter as those of inferiour Germany towards Denmarke be all of Okes. By the way we passed a Monastery granted to the Phaltzgraue of Rhein by the Emperour and a free City of the Empire called Donaward of the two Riuers Danow Werd meeting there and there we passed by bridge the Danow running by the City Then wee rode to Weschendorff two miles and a halfe more through fruitfull fields of corne pastures the Country belonging to the Fugares Citizens of Augsburg to diuers other Lords The Castle of this place belongs to the said Fugares who are rich famous for their treasure though they haue princely reuenues the title of barons yet stil are merchants here each man paid for his supper hors-meat 8. batzen a half The third day in the morning we rode three miles to Augsburg through a fruitfull plaine of corne without the wals whereof on the East and North and some part of the South sides the fields are drowned with waters and men passe to the Citie by causies for on these sides the ground lieth low but on the West side is all the beauty of the City where the houses are seated vpon a hill and ther is a place for the Merchants to meet called the Berle and likewise the Senate house in the street Weingasse so called of the Wine cellars There also be many Pallaces stately built of the Fugares and other Citizens all the building is of free stone sixe or seuen roofes high but in other parts it is more poorely built of timber and clay On this West part of the City is the Gate called Kuknerthore and the ditches are dry as they be round about the City the wals are of stone which being on all other sides narrow are on this side broad for vpon the wals of this side there be little houses built for fiue hundred Garrison Souldiers to dwell in with their wiues and families which place is vulgarly called Die schwang Here the Souldiers keep watch each three daies by turne each of them haue for pay six guldens by the moneth and there is a market place whether the Souldiers vpon any difference vse to challenge each other On this West side is another gate vulgarly called Der Einlasse by which passengers are receiued into the City by night when the gates are shut and this their entrance is so curiously admitted as many strangers desirous to see the fashion suffer themselues of purpose to be locked out at night and willingly giue a reward to the souldiers letting them in when they receiue in those that are shut out diuers gates are opened and no man being seene to open them are presently shut on the back of them that come in then they being thus shut as it were in a prison a box is put downe to them in which they cast a reward which done the Watch-men out of win dowes behold each man that is to enter and so being safe from all treason let them passe by the last gate into the City On the South side there be two gates Roatthore and Smitbogenthore on the East side the gate Iacoberthore and a little gate called Holeblatten-thorelin On the East side the Riuer Werda the Brooke Lecca running towards the North in three
my studies at Bazell Therefore not to bee wanting to my selfe I hyred a horse and made this cozenage knowne to the Arch-Dukes officer desiring him to exclude my debtor from the priuiledge of the Monastery But this Dutch Gentleman finding mee to speake Latine readily tooke mee for some Schoole-master and despised both mee and my cause so as I returned to the Citie weary and sad hauing obtained no fauor But a better starre shined there on mee for the Consuls that day had determined in Court that my debtors horses should bee sought out and deliuered to mee and the Lawyers and Clearkes were so courteous to me as neither they nor any other would take the least reward of mee though I pressed them to receiue it Then my debtors brother being loth the horses should be carried away paid me my mony and I gladly tooke my iourney thence towads Bazel This integrity of the Dutch Magistrates which especially in the Cities of the reformed Religion hauing found by many testimonies I cannot sufficiently commend and curtesie of the Dutch towards strangers I haue thought good in this place thankefully to acknowledge Vpon the Lake Acrontiis vulgarly Boden-sea that is vpper sea I passed by boate foure miles to Costnetz and paied for my passage three Batzen Betweene this vpper sea and the lower sea vulgarly Vnden-sea this Citie Costnetz lyeth on the banke lengthwise and is subiect to Ferdinand of Inspruch Arch-Duke of Austria whose base sonne hath also the Bishopricke of that City which is famous by a Councell held there whither Iohn Hus was called with the Emperours safe conduct in the yeere 1414 yet was there condemned of Heresie and burned On the West side of the Citie within the walles in the Monastery called Barfussen Cloyster is the Tower wherein he was imprisoned and without the walles on the left hand as you goeout is a faire meadow and therein a stone vpon the high-way to which he was bound being burnt the same yeere 1414 in the Month of Iuly Where also his fellow Ierom of Prage was burnt in September the yeere following both their ashes being cast into the Lake lest the Bohemians should carry them away The Senate-house in which this Councell was held is of no beauty When the Emperour Charles the fifth besieged this Citie it was yeelded to the hands of Ferdinand King of Bohemia and brother to Charles who made the Citizens peace for them Heere each man paid eight Batzen a meale and for wine betweene meales eight creitzers the measure Hence I went by boat two miles to Styga and paied for my passage two Batzen We tooke boat at the end of the Lake close by the City where the Rheine comming againe out of the Lake and taking his name therein lost doth runne in all narrow bed and when wee had gone by water some houre and a halfe wee entred the lower Lake called Vnden-sea Neere Costnetz is an Iland called little Meinow and in this lower lake is another Iland called Reichnow of the riches the Monastery therof hauing of old so much lands as the Monkes being sent to Rome vsed to lodge euery night in their owne possessions This Iland is said to beare nothing that hath poyson so as any such beast dieth presently in it and in the Monastery are some reliques of Saint Marke for which as they say the Venetians haue offered much money VVriters report that of old a Monke thereof climing vp a ladder to looke into a huge vessell of wine and being ouercome with the vapour fell into the same with a great bunch of keyes in his hand and that shortly after this wine was so famous as Princes and Nobles and many sickly persons vsually sent for the same the cause of the goodnes being not knowne to proceed of the putrified flesh till the vessell being empty the keyes and the Friers bones were found therein the Monkes till then thinking that their fellow had secretly gone to some other Monastery of that Order yet the Dutch in my company reported that this happened in a Monastery not farre off called Salmanschwell By the way was a stately Pallace belonging to the Fugares of Augsburg On the East-side out of the walles of Styga lye woody fields on the West-side the Iland Horue and pleasant Hils full of vines and corne In this City the Bishop of Costnetz hath his Pallace who is Lord of the two Ilands Meinow and Reichnow and hath very large possessions in these parts mingled with the territories of other Lords And this City is vpon the confines of Germany and Sweitzerland Hence I passed by boat two miles to Schaffhausen and paied for my passage two Batzen The swistnes of the Rheine made the miles seeme short and this riuer againe loseth his name in the said lower Lake and when it comes or rather violently breakes out of it then resumes it againe This City is one of the confederate Cantons of Sweitzerland Not farre from this City on the South side in the riuer Rheine is a great fall of the waters ouer a rocke some fifty cubits downeward passing with huge noyse and ending all in fome And for this cause the Barkes are forced to vnlade here and to carry their goods by carts to the City and from the City to imbarke them againe which yeeldeth great profit to the City by taxations imposed on the goods which must necessarily be landed there On both sides the riuer as we came to this City are pleasant hils planted with vines faire pastures with sweet groues The City is round in forme and is washed with the Rheine on the South side and vpon the banke of the riuer within the Towne is a pleasant greene where the Citizens meete to exercise the shooting of the Harquebuze and crosse-Bow where also is a Lynden or Teyle tree giuing so large a shade as vpon the top it hath a kinde of chamber boarded on the floore with windowes on the sides and a cocke which being turned water fals into a vessel through diuers pipes by which it is conueyed thither for washing of glasses and other vses and heere the Citizens vse to drinke and feast together there being sixe tables for that purpose On the same South side is a Monastery with walles and gates like a little City It hath the name of 〈◊〉 that is a sheepe or Schiff that is a ship and Hausse that is a house as of a fold for 〈◊〉 or roade for shippes Here I paid for each meale six batzen For the better vnderstanding of my iourney from Schafhusen to Zurech I will prefix a letter which I wrote to that purpose from Bazel To the Right Worshipfull Master Doctor Iohn Vlmer IN those few houres I staid at Schafhusen you haue made me your Seruant for euer I remember the houres of our conuersation which for the sweetnes thereof seemed minutes to me I remember the good offices you did towards me a stranger with gentlenes if not proper to your selfe yet proper
by the way I obserued that the vvaggons hauing past more then halfe the way must haue the way giuen them by all the waggons they meet because their horses should in reason be most weary At Harlam I paied for supper bed and breakfast twenty fiue stiuers Hence I vvent by vvaggon and paied for my part of it sixteene stiuers for three miles to Amsterdam and there receiuing my money returned to Harlam drawne ouer the snow and ice which had plentifully fallen on a sledge for which I paid foure stiuers and I obserued many markes set vp in the fields to direct the way to passengers From Harlam I returned to Leyden where I lodged in a French-mans house for intending to bestow all my time in the French tongue till by Letters I should dispose of my estate in England and there being a famous Vniuersity in this City I found no abiding fitter for me then this I paid for my diet and chamber in this French-mans house three guidens and fifteene stiuers weekely but in the common Innes they pay ten or fifteene stiuers a meale according to the quantity of beere they drinke and ordinarily twenty stiuers or more if they drinke wine Leyden is so called of the words Legt bey de dunen that is lieth by the Downes so they call the sandy bankes of the Sea as the English doe likewise in Kent Leyden is of a round forme or perhaps somewhat longer from the East to the West where the Rheine passeth by it It is a City of much beauty the houses are very fairely built of bricke and be vniforme The Churches are couered with long slates as they be almost through all Holland and among the streetes one is much fairer then the rest in the middest whereof is a peece of ground railed in where the Merchants meet Many streetes are diuided with waters which are passed by woodden bridges and in deede if a man dig two foote in any part of Holland he shall find water I said that the Rheine passeth by this City yet doth it not fall into the Sea but leeseth it selfe in many standing ditches of water in this low part of the continent Toward the North-west about a mile from the City there is the end of a ditch digged of old from the very City vulgarly called Malgatt because the Citizens spent much treasure in a vaine hope to make a Hauen for ships and a nauigable water to come vp to the Towne for the heapes of sand daily cast vp by the Sea filled the place vp where they thought to haue made the Hauen as fast as they could dig it yet was it long before they would cease from this ill aduised worke Notwithstanding salt water comes vnder the earth from the Sea into this ditch and they carry the same vnto the City to make salt thereof Vpon the same Sea-shore towards the North and like distance from the City is a Village called Catwicke seated vpon Mountaines of sands on the maine sea Vpon the same shore further towards the North is a place where they say the Romans of old had an Armory the ruines whereof some musket shot from the shore more or lesse appeare as the wind couers them with sand or blowing from another quarter driues away the sand and so laies them open Hereabouts they say that many coines of the Romans are oftentimes digged vp and neere the Hoch-landish Church is a Monument built by Caligula the Emperour which now belongs to a Gentleman of that Countrey Vpon the North side of this city the Villages Warmond and Nortwicke lie vpon the aforesaid Downes but the City hath no gate that directly leades to them Leyden hath fiue gates Regenspurgport on the West side which leadeth to Harlam and to Catwicke and white port which leadeth to Hage betweene which gates there is a low water-gate of iron grates for boates to passe in and out Neere White Port lies a house where they exercise shooting with the Peece and Crosse-bow On the South side is the gate Kow-port leading into the pastures Vpon the East side is the gate Hochwertz-port more fortified then any of the rest and it leadeth to Vberden Gonda and to Alphen There is another gate Zillport which leadeth ro Vtretcht whither you passe by water or land The foresaid street which I said was the beauty of the Towne lieth from the West to Hochwertzport on the East side and is called Breitstrat that is Broadstreete In the spring time of the yeere 1593 purposing to see the Cities of the vnited Prouinces I hired a Waggon for sixe stiuers and went from Leyden to Delph three miles in three houres space through corne fields and rich pastures and hauing gone two third parts of the way we passed ouer the water that runnes from Leyden to Delph In all these parts the high way hath ditches on both sides and is very plaine sandy and very dry being daily repaired by the countrey people By the way is a mill in which they make oyle of rape and line seedes mingled with wallnut shels and they haue many such miles in those parts Not farre of at Voberg the Histories write of a holy Groue famous for a conspiracy against the Romans The City of Delph lyeth in length from the North to the South and the falrest street called Corne-mart lies the same way Here as in all the Cities of these parts the buildings are of bricke but the houses of Delph are more stately built and seeme to haue more antiquity then other where In the New Church is a Monument of the Prince of Orange the poorest that euer I saw for such a person being onely of rough stones and morter with posts of wood coloured ouer with black and very little erected from the ground Neere the Church is a large market-place and within a little Iland the Senate house is built The Hauen is on the South side The Prince of Orange dwelt heere in a Monastery and vsed to eat in a low parlor whence as he ascended the staires into the chamber a wicked murtherer gaue him his deaths wound who flying by a backe doore was after taken in the Citie and put to a most cruell but most deserued death The Countesse of Buren daughter to this said Prince now liued in this Monastery with her family Here I paied for one meale for my selfe and a guest inuited by me and two pots of Rhenish wine three guldens and fiue stiuers When the Spanish Army most pressed the vnited Prouinces the Prince of Orange then lying here to shunne a greater mischiefe from the Spaniards brake downe the bankes of the sea and let in the waters which did much hurt to the Countrey but saued them from the Spaniards who with great feare hasted away giuing great rewards to those that guided them to the firme continent At Delph are about three hundred Brewers and their beere for the goodnesse is called Delphs-English but howsoeuer they had Brewers and the very
water out of England they could neuer make their beere so much esteemed as the English which indeed is much bettered by the carriage ouer sea to these parts Hence I went to Sluse so called of the damme to let waters in and out and came thither in two houres paying for my waggon thirteene stiuers which I hired alone for if I had light vpon company we should haue paied no more betweene vs. Hence I passed the Riuer Mase where it falleth into the sea and came to Brill my selfe and two others paying twelue stiuers for our passage but the barke being presently to returne and therefore not entring the Port set vs on land neere the Towne whether we walked on foot Brill is a fortified Towne laid in pledge to Queene Elizabeth for money she lent the States and it was then kept by foure English Companies paid by the Queene vnder the gouernment of the Lord Burrowes The Towne is seated in an Iland which was said to bee absolute of it selfe neither belonging to Zealand nor Holland On the North side the Riuer Mase runneth by On the East side are corne fieldes and the Riuer somewhat more distant On the South side are corne fields On the West side are corne fields and the maine Sea little distant Here I paied for my supper and dinner twenty stiuers and for a pot of wine eighteene stiuers From hence I returned by water to Roterodam in Holland and paied for my passage three stiuers In the mouth of the Riuer of Roterodam lies the City Arseldipig and another called Delphs-Ile being the Hauen of Delph which was then a pleasant Village but growing to a City and hauing beene lately burnt by fire was fairely rebuilded Roterodam lies in length from the East to the West The Hauen is on the South side being then full of great ships vpon which side it lay open without walles hauing many faire houses and a sweet walke vpon the banke of the water Neither is it fortified on the sides towards the land nor seemed to mee able to beare a siege hauing low walles on the North and East sides yet compassed with broad ditches The street Hoch-street is faire and large extending it selfe all the length of the Citie and lying so as from the gate at the one end you may see the gate at the other end and in this street is the Senate house In the market place toward the West is the statua of Erasmus being made of wood for the Spaniards brake downe that which was made of stone and the inscription thereof witnesseth that hee was borne at Roterodame the twenty eight of October in the yeere 1467 and died at Bazel the twelfth of Iuly in the yeere 1531. In New-Kirk-street there is the house in vvhich Erasmus was borne vvherein a Taylor dwelled at this time and vpon the vvall thereof these Verses are written AEdibus his natus mundum decorauit Erasmus Artibus ingenuis Religione side The world Erasmus in this poore house borne With Arts Religion Faith did much adorne The same Verses also vvere vvritten in the Flemmish tongue and vpon the vvall vvas the picture of Erasmus Vpon the same West side is the house for exercise of shooting in the Peece and Crosse-bow The vvaters of Roterodam and Delph being neere the sea are more vvholesome then the standing waters within land Heere I lodged at an English-mans house and paied for my supper tenne stiuers for my breakfast two stiuers and for beere betweene meales fiue stiuers by which expence compared vvith that of the Flemmish Innes it is apparant that strangers in their reckonings pay for the intemperate drinking of their Dutch companions From hence I went by sea three miles to Dort in two houres space to which City we might haue gone great part of the way by vvaggon as farre as Helmund but then we must needs haue crossed an Inland sea for the City is seated in an Iland hauing beene of old diuided from the continent of Holland in a great floud The forme of the City resembles a Galley the length whereof lies from the East to the West Wee landed vpon the North side lying vpon the sea where there be two gates but of no strength On the East side is the New gate Reydike and beyond a narrow water lye fenny grounds On the South side the ditch is more narrow yet the sea ebbs and flowes into it and vpon old walles of stone is a conuenient walking place On this side is the gate Spey-port and beyond the ditch lye fenny grounds On the West side is the gate Feld-port and a like walke vpon walles of stone and there is a greater ebbing and flowing of the sea There is a great Church built of bricke and couered with slate being stately built vvith Arched cloysters and there of old the Counts of Holland were consecrated From this part the two fairest streets Reydike-strat and Wein-strat lie windingly towards the North. Turning a little out of the faire street Reydike-strat towards the South lies the house for exercise of shooting in the Peece Crosse-bow and there by is a very pleasant groue vpon the trees vvhereof certaine birds frequent which we call Hearnes vulgarly called Adhearne or Regle and their feathers being of great price there is a great penalty set on them that shall hurt or annoy those birds There is a house vvhich retaines the name of the Emperor Charles the fift and another house for coyning of money for the Counts of Holland vvere vvont to coyne money at Dort as the Counts of Zealand did at Midleburg Betweene the faire streets Reydike-strat and Wein-strat is the Hauen for ships to be passed ouer by bridges and there is a market place and the Senate house vvhich hath a prospect into both these streets The houses are higher built then other where in Holland and seeme to be of greater Antiquity This Citie by priuiledge is the staple of Rhenish vvines vvhich are from hence carried to other Cities so as no imposition being here paied for the same the pot of Rhenish wine is sold for twelue stiuers for which in other places they pay eighteene or twenty stiuers For three meales I paied heere thirty stiuers From hence I vvent by water to the States Campe besieging Getrudenberg and came thither in two houres space but the vvindes being very tempestuous wee saw a boat drowned before vs out of which one man onely escaped by swimming who seemed to me most wretched in that hee ouer-liued his wife and all his children then drowned The besieged City lies in the Prouince of Brabant and the County of Buren being the inheritance of the Prince of Orange by right of his wife and in this Month of Iune it was yeelded to Count Maurice the Spanish Army lying neere but not being able to succour it The Sea lying vpon this part of Brabant was of old firme land ioined to the continent till many villages by diuers floods and seuenteene
Parishes at once by a famous flood were within lesse then 200. yeeres agoe swallowed vp of the Sea and for witnes of this calamity diuers Towers farre distant the one from the other appeare in this Sea and according to the ebbing and flowing more or lesse seene doe alwaies by their sad spectacle put the passengers in mind of that wofull euent And the Hollanders say that these flouds caused the Rheine to change his bed as hereafter I shall shew in the due place From Count Maurice his Campe at Getrudenberg I failed in six houres space to the Iland Plate and at midnight putting forth againe failed in ten houres space to the Iland Tarlot and from thence in three houres space to the City Bergenapzome where we landed By the way we saw one of the aforesaid Towers high aboue the water being a steeple of some parish Church swallowed vp in the said deluge of which there be many like sad remembrances in this Inland sea The channell leading to the City is called Forcemer and hath vpon the banke many strong sorts and in this channell lay a man of warre to defend passengers from the bordering enemy This City is strongly fortified and is sented in Brabant and had many castles of the enemy lying neerert and it was gouerned by a garison of English not in the Queenes but in the States pay as Ostend at that time was whereas Virshing and Brill pledged to the Queen for money wore kept by English Garisons in the Queenes pay and Sir Thomas Morgan was at this time Gouernour of this City At out entrance euery man gaue his nameto the Guard Without the City on the West side many akers of land were drowned when the Prince of Orange as I said let in the waters to driue the Spaniards out of those parts which from that day to this could neuer be dried and gained againe On this side I entered the City where be many poore houses built in forme of a Lutes necke which being added to the City almost of a round forme make the whole City much like vnto a Lute On this side were three strong rauelings and vppon the necke of the said Lute is the Hauen in the channell Forcemer which going no further into the land endeth in a mill made of purpose to keepe the ebbing water so as the ditches may alwaies be full On the North side is the prison not vnpleasant for situation and the English House and the House of the Gouernour which of old belonged to the Count of Brabant Betweene the Gates wouldport and Stephenbergport which are both strongly fortified the Riuer Zome fals into the Towne whereof it hath the name yet the channell being stopped it seemes here a standing water rather then a Riuer Towards the East the City is very strongly fortified and there is the Gate Boskport so called as I thinke of the word Bosco which in the Italian tongue signifies a wood for on this side without the gates were many woods and orchards till they were destroied in the warre On this side is another Raueling of great length and beyond the fortifications lie faire pastures but somewhat couered with waters And from hence wee might see Woudcastle scarce three English miles distant which was then possessed by the Spaniards On the South side is a new fort beyond a strong bulwarke and a very strong counterscarp compassing the City And from hence was of old a most pleasant walke vnder the shade of trees to the old castle some mile distant On this side in a pleasant groue were many such birds as I said to be at Dort vulgarly called Adherne much esteemed for the fethers they beare in their fore head and there is a penalty set on those that hurt or driue them away On this side also is the English Church and vpon this and the East sides the Prince of Parma in camped when hee besieged this City There is in the middest of the City a triangular market place and from the sharpe end thereof towards the West siue rauelings run beyond the wals The houses are built of bricke and seeme to be built of old The Church hath a very high steeple whence the watchmen shew the comming and number of horse-men by hanging out white flagges and of foot by redde All the Villages hereabouts though liuing vnder the Spaniard yet pay contribution to this Garrison lest the souldiers should vpon aduantage breake out and spoile them The Citizens liue of mannall arts and the expences of the Garison From hence I sayled to Midleburge and at one ebbe of the Sea passed in seuen houres space to Der-goese and at another ebbe in foure houres space to Armaren a City of the Iland Walkern belonging to Zealand and I paid for my passage six stiuers From hence in halfe an houre I walked on foot to Midleburge the houses whereof are stately built and very high especially the new City and are all of bricke as be the Cities of Holland and as be the houses of Vlishing but some of these are stately built of free stone yet the streetes are somewhat narrow Here I paid for my supper fiue stiuers in the English House where the Host is onely bound to prouide for the Merchants and such gucsts as they inuite yet many times he admits English Gentlemen both to lodge and eat there The House lies in the street Longdels and howsoeuer the Merchants cat there yet they hier their lodgings scatteringly in the City and refused an Abbey which the Senators offered them to lodge therein perhaps out of feare lest in any ciuill tumult they might more easily be wronged if they should all lie together This City is the Staple of all Merchandise excepting Rhenish wine for which by old priuiledge Dorte is the Staple Therefore French and Spanish Wines are here sold much more cheape then other where because they are free of impost in this place and haue great impositions laid on them being carried out to other Cities The forme of the City is round saue that on the East side the buildings of the new City being vnperfected made it to haue the forme of a halfe Moone though the plot thereof were round Comming from Armuren I entered on this East side by a very faire gate called the New Gate where the water falling into the Towne passeth to the Burse where the Merchants meet There is a publike House for shooting the wall on this side as round about the City is of stone and is rather adorned then fortified with some Towers And this wall is double vpon the Inner whereof compassed with deepe ditches many Houses are built On the West side without the gates almost halfe way to Vlishing is Rammakins Castle kept by English Souldiers sent from Vlishing to that purpose being a place of great importance because the channell going to Midleburge runnes within the command of their Artillery On this South side is the Hauen and without the wals very faire pastures
set round about with willowes Here is the publike house for exercise of shooting in the Peece and Crosse-bow which hath a sweet prospect into a large greene plaine where they vse to spread linnen clothes in the sunne and here certaine rowes of trees being planted yeeld a pleasant shade to them that walke therein One of the said rowes of trees called Vinareberg leades to an old Castle of the Counts of Holland compassed with a drie ditch in which Count Maurice dwelt but in the great Hall thereof were many shops of Merchants for small wares Vpon the wals of the said Castle and vpon the windowes of the Church these words were written in latine To Charles the fifth c. To the most inuincible Caesar Charles the fifth Roman Emperour the victorious desender of the Catholike Religion and Augustus The Prouisors of this House haue placed this in the yeere 1547. Thereby was the statua of Charles the fifth kneeling on his knees In the window were painted the Armes of all the Knights of the golden Fleece The Histories of the Countrey report the building of this Pallace to be wonderfull in that the top of the Hall is not ioined with beames but with arches but for my part I obserued no great magnificence in the worke The second of the foresaid rowes of trees called Furholt leads to a gentlemans house the fairest most stately built in this Village In the middest of the Hage lies the market place and the Church On the South side is the water that leader to Delph and round about on all sides without the Village are faire pastures excepting the North-side where the sandy downes of the Sea lie neere to the Village In the Church is a Monument of Count Albertus Duke of Bauria and another of a Count of Hanaw with diuers others which I omit as hauing no antiquity or magnificence While I staied at the Hage I walked out in halfe an houres space to the village Lausdune where I saw a wonderfull monument the History whereof printed in a paper the Earle of Leicester as they said had carried with him into England leauing onely the same in written hand the coppy whereof I will set downe first remembring that two basens of brasse hanged on the wall in which the children whereof I shall speak were baptized The manuscript was in latine a followeth En tibi monstrosum nimis memorabile factum Quale nec a Mundi conditione datum Haec lege mox animo stupefactus lector abibis So strange and monstrous thing I tell As from the worlds frame nere befell He parts amasde that markes it well The rest in latine is thus englished Margaret wife to Hermanuus Count of Henneberge daughter to Florence Count of Holland and Zealand sifter to William King of the Romans and Caesar or Gouermour of the Empire This most noble Countesse being about forty two yeeres old the very day of preparation called Paraseene about nine of the clocke in the yeere 1276. brought forth at one birth three hundred sixty fiue children which being baptized in two basens of brasse by Guido suffragan of Vtretcht all the males were called Iohn and all the females Elizabeth but all of them together with the mother died in one and the same day and lie buried here in the Church of Lausdune and this happened to her in that a poore woman bearing in her armes two twinnes the Countesse wondering at it said shee could not haue them both by one man and so reiected her with scorne whereupon the woman sore troubled wished that the Countesse might haue as many childen at a birth as there be daies in the whole yeere which besides the course of nature by miracle fell out as in this table is briefly set downe for perpetuall memory out of old Chronicles as well written as printed Almighty God must be in this beheld and honoured and extolled with praises for euer and euer Amen From the Hage my selfe and other consorts hired a Waggon for two guldens and passed to Leyden hauing on both sides faire pastures fruitfull corne fields and some pleasant groues CHAP. V. Of my iourney out of the vnited Prouinces by the Sea coast to Stode and Lubeck in Germany Of my sauing to Denmarke and thence to Dantzk in Prussen and my iourney through Poland to Padoua in Italy IN the end of the Month of Iune and the yeere 1593 hauing now dispatched by Letters all my businesse in England and hauing seene the vnited Prouinces I was in doubt by what way I should returne into Italy and hauing already passed the two waies of Germany that by Augspurge and the other by the Sweitzers and the way by France being then shut vp by the ciuill warres the common desire of Trauellers not to passe the same way twice but to see as many new Countries as their course will permit made me resolue to passe through the Kingdomes of Denmarke and Poland and by the fortified City of Wien in Austria In which iourney howsoeuer I should goe much out of my way and was like to indure many troubles yet I thought nothing was difficult to a willing minde Therefore I hired a waggon from Leyden to Vtrecht and paied for my part twelue stiuers Wee passed three miles and a halfe in three houres by the village Alpha where the Spaniards incamped when they besieged Leyden and by a little Towne called Gonda hauing on both sides faire pastures but somewhat ouer flowed and ditches set with willowes and we came to a little village where the waggoner gaue his horses meat Then in foure houres space wee passed foure miles and a halfe hauing on both sides fruitfull corne fields and like ditches set with willowes and so we came to Vtrecht But a mile and a halfe before we came thither we passed out of the Territory of Holland and entred the Bishopricke of Vtrecht which is one of the vnited Prouinces Not farre from the City wee saw a crosse set vp for a Monument of a Bishop dying in battell against the Hollanders I had almost forgotten the little City Werden which they shewed vs by the way and told vs that the forme thereof was like the City of Ierusalem which at that time I had not seene and therefore mention this from their report rather then from my iudgement The City Vtrecht is seated in length from South-east by East to North-west by West and vpon the end at South-east by East is the gate Weitefraw where the Rheine enters the City At the other end Noth-west by West are the ruines of an old Castle which the Spaniards kept before the wars to bridle the City and there be two gates Saint Katherine-port and Wert-port each of them hauing their suburbes On the South-west side are walles of earth but the ditches were almost dry On the North-east side is the gate Olske-port and there bee three strong Rauelings one defending the other On this side bee two streets fairer then the
a bridge this was written in Latine For the carrying ouer of Dutch merchandize by the streames of Ledra S. S. President of the Prouince speedily built this Bridge So wee came through a plaine somewhat wilde or lesse fruitfull to Spilenburg where I paied twenty one sols for my dinner eight for oats and foure for hay After dinner we rode two Dutch miles through wild stony fields to Sanuocate where I paid thirty sols for my supper thirty two for oats and ten for hay The thirteenth day in the morning we rode three Dutch or fourteen Italian miles through wilde grounds and stony fields of corne and neere our iournies end by many Orchardes and Vineyards to Konian where I omitted my expence By the way wee met a Gentleman in his coach drawne with oxen After dinner wee rode two Dutch or eight Italian miles and in a wilde field passed two branches of a riuer by a boat in which we sate on horse-backe and we paied sixteene sols for our passage and thence wee came to a village where I paied forty sols for my supper twenty three for oats and ten for hay And comming hither on All-soules euening which they keepe with great superstition wee could not sleepe for little bels tinckling all night The fourteenth day in the morning we rode six Italian miles through fruitfull hils of corne and by pleasant Vineyards to Treuigi a City little in circuit but fortified and built of bricke with arches hanging ouer the streets vnder which men walke dry in the greatest raine where I haue omitted my expences After breakefast we rode twenty two Italian miles through a most pleasant plain in which we passed ouer a riuer and came to Paduoa Here I sold my horse for twenty siluer crownes which I bought at Crakaw for eighteene guldens and by the way I might haue sold him for twenty six crownes or more and from the place where I sold him might easily haue hired a coach or horses to Paduoa but my foolish hope to sell him deerer and desire to saue the charge of hiring a coach or horse kept me from selling him by the way whereof I repented when I came to Paduoa where horse-meat was very deere and the horse-coarsers finding that I must needs sell him agreed among themselues so craftily sending mee euery day new buyers to offer mee lesse then before they had offered as when I had kept him fourteene dayes I must haue beene forced to sell my horse at their price if I had not found an English Gentleman by chance who returning into Germany gaue mee twenty crownes for my horse I staied all this winter at Paduoa in which famous Vniuersity I desired to perfect my Italian tongue where a Student may haue his table at an Ordinary vulgarly a la dozena and his chamber for eight or at most for tenne siluer crownes the month but few liue after this fashion saue the Dutch and strangers new arriued and hauing not yet got the language but rather they hire a chamber which is to be had for a zechine or tenne lires the month or at a lower rate the Hostesse being to finde linnen and dresse the meat you buy My Hoste had a large house with a faire court hired yeerly for forty crownes and with him my selfe and some Dutch men lodged each hauing his chamber and plentifull diet for eight siluer crownes the month When I went to Venice I lodged with an Hostesse an old widow which had a house like a Pallace for which she paied two hundred crownes yeerely and there I paied for a chamber foure siluer crownes by the month euery man there buying meat at his pleasure which the Hostesse dresseth and findes linnen But that the price of things may better appeare it will not be amisse particularly to set some prices downe for both Cities for howsoeuer strangers spend more in Venice then in Padnoa yet that is not by reason of diet but for the greater price of chambers and extraordinary inticements to spend The prices I will briefly set downe in some few particulars because in the due place treating of diet I am to speake more largely thereof It is the fashion of Italy that onely men and the Masters of the family goe into the market and buy victuals for seruants are neuer sent to that purpose much lesse weomen which if they be chast rather are locked vp at home as it were in prison Againe the small coines of brasse are very helpefull to the poore all victuals being sold in small portions according to the smallest money yea the very spices which in the shoppes are put vp in papers ready beaten according to greater or the very least coynes The Italians are sparing in diet but particularly at Padnoa the markets abound rather with variety then quantities of meat Some hundreds of turkies hang out to be sold for six or seuen lires each according to the goodnes And this territory yeelding better corn then other parts they haue very white bread light pleasant in tast especially that which is called Pan-buffetto I remember I bought a pound of mutton for fiue sols and a halfe of veale for eight of porke for eight a fat hen for two lires eight little birds for six sols a great and fat pigeon for two lires a pullet for thirty fiue and sometime forty sols an Eele after ten sols the pound kreuises the pound three and sometimes six sols a pike the pound seuen or eight sols round cockles the hundred three sols the longe which we call rasers the hundreth twenty sols the skalops which they call holy cockels twelue for a lire Cheuerns the pound foure sols a plaise sixe sols tenches the pound eight sols sawsages the pound ten sols sixe egges eight sols butter the pound foureteene sols piacentine cheese the pound six sols and parmesan the pound ten or twelue sols a measure of salt for the table foure sols rice the pound three sols ten snailes foure sols apples the pound two sols peares wardens the pound foure sols chesnuts the pound three sols dry grapes the pound two sols sometimes three almonds the pound fiue sols six orenges for one gaget a pomegranat one sol oyle the pound ten sols a secchio of wine thirty fiue sols or the pound thereof eight sols waxe candles the ounce two sols and ten small waxe candles twenty two sols other candles the pound sixteene sols or foureteene if they be little a quire of writing paper fiue sols The Hostesse dresseth your meat in the bargaine for your chamber and findes you napkins tableclothes sheetes and towels and either in your chest or her owne will lay vp the meat and very bread you leaue more prouidently then any of our parts would require and little boyes attend in the market places with baskets who for a soll will carry home the meat you buy and dare not deceiue you though you goe not with them I paid to my taylor for making a cloake foure lires and
such like crimes and now had their pardon vpon condition that for some yeeres they should serue the Emperour in Hungarie against the Turks These men abhorred in all Italy yet no doubt at this time very deuout did make stiffe vows to expiat their sinnes and to haue happie returne out of Hungarie yet they held their hands from giuing any large almes My selfe and my consorts were all this day fasting for it had been an vnperdonable sinne to haue demaunded meate in our Inne before wee had been in the Church and would haue giuen open occasion to suspect our Religion At last when wee returned to the Inne our Vetturine gaue vs our dinner The same day after a slight dinner we rode foureteene miles vpon a causey paued with stone and winding about a mountaine then through fields abounding with Oliue trees but hauing no vines and we came to the City Macerata where the Popes Legate lies and keepes his chancery for this Marca of Ancona Part of this Prouince yeelds rich wine whereof they haue onely white wine in the Innes The second day in the morning we rode twenty two miles to Poluertna through a pleasant way and fruitfull fields yeelding corne and oliues And by the way neere the City Tollentine were the confines of the Marca of Ancona and of the Dukedome of Spoleto After dinner we rode ten miles to the Castle Sereuallo through stony and barren mountaines The third day in the morning we rode sixteene miles to Fuligni through most stony and barren mountaines which are called Apennine and diuide the length of Italy and through a large plaine planted with oliue trees and compassed about with mountaines This City was built vpon the ruines of the City Forum Flaminium After dinner we rode ten miles to the City Spoleto through a firtle plaine but stony yeelding together in the same field vines corne Almond and Oliue trees and at the end of the plaine this City is seated partly in a plaine partly on the side of a mountaine vpon the top whereof is a strong Castle built vpon the ruines of an old Amphitheater to the which men passe ouer a bridge of stone vpheld by twentyfour great pillars ioyning two mountaines which haue a deepe valley between them but narrow and without water In the Church of this Castle they shew a picture of the blessed Virgin painted with Saint Lukes hand of which kind there is an infinit number among the Papists Theodoricus King of the Gothes built a stately Pallace in the City which being ruined Narses the Eunuch Gouernour of Italy vnder the Easterne Emperour did rebuild it The Dukedome of Spoleto is subiect to the Pope who tooke it when he cast the Easterne Emperours out of Italy and after extorted the grant thereof from the renewed Westerne Emperours And the soile of this Dukedome is most fruitfull of corne wine almond and oliue trees and of most sweet fruits Of the wine Martiall thus writes De Spoletanis quae funt curiosa lagenis Malueris quam si musta Falerna hib as If with Spoleto bottels once you meet Say that Falerno must is not so sweet The fourth day in the morning wee rode ten mils through stony and most barren mountaines and fiue miles through a fertile plaine wherein grew together corne vines and oliue trees which trees I obserued alwaies to grow in stony ground which soyle in Italy vseth to be more firtile then other and seuen miles through a more firtile plaine in the end whereof is the City Narni whose situation is altogether like that of Spoleto The Italians told me that the soyle of this territory is made dirty with the sunne and wind and dusty with raine which since I haue found confirmed by learned Cosmographers On the South-side of Narni the Riuer Negra fals with great noise from a steepe Rocke and the Friar Leandro who hath best discribed Italy affirmes that the Riuer Velino makes a Fen which Cicero numbers among wonderful things and that this Fen endeth in a Lake of old called Veanus now vulgarly called Lago di pie di luco and that betweene the running out of the waters there is a Fountaine of Neptune which Pliny hath described and that this Lake is the Nauell of midst of Italy and lastly that the water falling into the Lake compassed with mountaines by steepe discents maketh noises like the groanes yellings and sighes of infernall spirits From whence and by other arguments he seemes to proue plainely that the verses of Virgill in the seuenth Booke of his AEneados are meant of this place and that others are deceiued who thinke them meant by Tenaso in Apulia especially since the vallies Ansancti are in this place vulgarly called Nesanto for Ansanto which signifies on all sides holy because they are fertile The verses of Virgil are these Est locus Italiae in medio sub montibus altis Nobilis fama multis memoratur in oris Ansancti valles c. Hic specus horrendum saeui spiracula Ditis Monstrantur c. Italtes Center hath great Mounts beneath A noble place which is farre knowne by fame The Ansancti valleyes c. A dreadfull hole whereat fierce Dis doth breath Here may be seene c. After dinner we rode twelue miles to a little Towne lying beyond the Riuer Tyber namely eight miles to the Castle Otricoli through woody Mountaines and Valyes bearing Oliue trees and corne together with those trees and from thence to the side of the Riuer Tyber two miles in pasture fieldes Here we passed to the West side of this so famous Riuer where of old the Emperour Augustus built a stately bridge but now men and horse passe in a ferry-boate which is drawne ouer with the force of mens hands by a great cable fastned a-crosse the Riuer And least the boate should be carried away with the swift streame a second cable is fastned a-crosse the Riuer by postes on each side higher then a man and they haue a third short cable to the one end whereof the boate is fastened and the other end hath a strong wheele which is put vpon the second high cable vpon which the boat slips forward as it is drawne with mens hands by the first low cable for the bed of the Tyber is broade in this place and hath his spring not far off among the high Apenine Mountains and falling thence with great force would carry away any boat rowed with oares But from thence the bed of the Riuer grows narrow and is such at Rome as it scarce deserues the name of a Brooke and nothing answeres the glorious fame which Italians haue giuen it who alwaies extoll their owne things to the skie Hereupon it is necessarie that when any store of raine falls or much snow suddenly meltes those waters falling from the Mountaines should ouerflow the fields and the Citie of Rome it selfe as they haue often done with great danger of the Citie the same being not farre distant from this Ferrey and
is richly guilded and here Pope Pius the fourth consecrated the spoiles taken from the Turkes in the nauall victory of him and his confederates the memory whereof is there kept by an inscription vpon a pillar Also the Senate and people of Rome haue here erected a table to Pope Paul the third vpon which is written in golden letters that while he was Cardinall he erected here many antient monuments digged vp in Rome at his owne charge On the other side of the Mount Capitoline towards the West as I remember at the very foot of the mountaine is the Tullian prison appointed for that vse by the old Kings Ancus Martins and Tullus in which they say the holy Apostles Peter and Paul were imprisoned and at this day there is a Church vnder the earth called Saint Peter In Careere The 24 Theater of Marcellus sonne to the sister of Augustus is neere the Pallace of the Family Sauilla Not farre thence towards the fish market was the Porticus of Octauia sifter to Augustus but no ruines now remaine thereof The 25 pallace of the Cardinal Farnese is seated in a plain being one of the fairest in Rome which for the dignity of such a City hath very few stately Pallaces Here I did see an admirable statua cut out in one stone of a Bull treading a woman vnder his feete with the Images of two brothers standing vpright and of a hunting dogge with the figure of a high Rocke Concerning the Churches which we did see in this daies iourney The 23 Church of Saint Adrian in the market place called Romanum or Boiarium The Church of Saint Peter and Marcellanus betweene the 20 Theater of Vespasian and the Church A S. Giouanni in Laterano the Church of Saint Matthew in the way towards C Saint Mary Maggiore the Church of Saint Pietro in vincula vpon XXVI Mount Esquiline where is a sepulcher of white marble of Pope Iulius the second adorned with faire statuaes namely one of Moyses of the rare worke of Michael Angelo the Church of Agata vpon the same mountaine the Church of Saint Vito In Macello the Church of Saint Eusebius neere the mounment called 9 Trofei di Mario the Church of Saint Prasside seared neere C S. Maria Maggiore whose chappell called Horto del Paradiso no woman may enter the Church of Saint Quirico the Church Saint Susanna vpon XXVIII Monte Cauallo the Church Saint Vitallis Al these Churches giue the titles of Cardinals The Church Saint Costanza is a long mile out of the VII gate Pis and was of old dedicated to Bacchus where is a most faire sepulcher and large of porphry ten ordinary spannes deepe and fifteene long curiously engrauen with boyes quaffing and bearing cups of wine as in a Feast of Bacchus which some thinke to be the sepulcher of Constantia a Virgine daughter to Constantine but the engrauing like a Feast of Bacchus seemes more ancient and to be wrought by the Heathen Romans and it is vulgarly called the sepulcher of Bacchus This Church is of a round forme and little but very faire and borne vp with twelue rowes of marble pillars set in a round compasse Neere this lies the Church of Saint Agnese hauing doores of brasse where the Lambes are kept whereof the Pals of Arch-bishops are made which the Pope so dearly sels At my first comming to Rome I lodged in a publike Inne and paid three giulij each meale then as I haue written I hasted my iourney to Naples and after returning to Rome I hired a chamber by the day and bought my owne meat but my haste to be gone made me not to note my particular expences Onely I remember that they who sold any thing in the market vsed to look into the hands of the buyers to see whether they brought siluer or brasse coyne and thereafter made their price whereupon many shewed siluer till they had bought and then paid in copper which the people durst not refuse And from hence it was that in a solemne pompe when the people fell on their knees before the Pope and I thought they onely expected his blessing they all cried out Holy Father command that we may haue white bread and that the Gentlemen may be forced to take our brasse quatrines so as it seemes they refused to receiue them I scarce bought my meat one or two daies in Rome For after I had beene with Cardinall Allen I formerly said that to shun the company of his Englishmen I changed my lodging and my selfe and two Dutch Gentlemen my consorts tooke a chamber in a victualling house close vnder the Popes Pallace and each of vs paid for our bed each night one or two baocci and bought our meat in that house agreeing for the price before we did eat it and so being ready vpon all euents of danger and hauing no carriage to trouble vs we hoped if need were to escape yet still I rested much vpon the Cardinals promise and being free from Englishmens company and hauing two honest Dutch Gentlemen for my consorts both borne in the Palatinate of Rheine where they professe the same religion as in England I did with more security set my selfe freely to satisfie my curiosity in the view of Rome After being desirous to see the mouth of Tyber where it fals into the sea I went out of the gate of Saint Paul and hauing the narrow bed of Tyber on my right hand passed twelue miles to Ostia through fruitfull hils of corne and a vast wood at my iournies end Here is a strong Castle seated in Latium and belonging to the Popes of Rome which Pope Martin the fifth built and Pope Iulius the second did more strongly fortifie but nothing remaines of the stately buildings of that City but some poore houses Strabo writes that King Ancus Martius first built this City in a soile to which the Riuer brought much dirt It is certaine that of old the ships did cast Anchor without the Hauen of the City and sent their goods to Rome in Gallies and Barkes drawne vp by a rope the Hauen being not so deepe to beare them The Citizens were free from Tribute to make them dwell there the aire being then as also at this time very vnwholsome Now the Tyber seemes to end here in a Lake and the waters runne in little channels vnder the paued high waies The Hauen of Traian is a mile and a halfe from the Towne being broad enough but so barred with sand and like matter as no ships can come to it and onely small Barkes sometimes passe from Naples and neere places to Rome and that very seldome The foresaid Hauen was first built by Claudius then repaired by Traian and called of his name of which Suetonius writes thus in the life of Claudius He made the Hauen of Hostia drawing an arme on the right and left side and making a barre at the entery where it was deepe which barre that he might make more stable by Art he sunke the ship
wherein the great Obeliske was brought from AEgypt and vpon piles heaped vp placed a most high Tower like to the Pharo of Alexandria out of which light was hung out by night to direct the ships c. When Traian repaired this Hauen the Citie Portuensis was built on the other side of Tyber towards the South-East in the soile of Toscany the Bishop whereof is one of the seuen Cardinals assistant to the Pope The branch of Tyber falling from Hostia and diuiding it selfe maketh an Iland compassed with the sea on the other side in which are many ruines of stately houses and great stones of Marble This Hauen seeming of no vse and barred vp for the securitie of Rome from any Nauall siege the onely Port that Rome hath is called Citta'vecchia seated vpon the shoare of Tuscany betweene the foresaid Hostia and Ligorno the chiefe Hauen of the Duke of Florence In this hauen of Rome of old called Centum Cellae and after ruined by the Saracens and after built againe the Popes of Rome possessing many places in the neighbour soile of Toscany did build a strong Castle and called it Citta Vecchia I returned from Ostia to Rome the same day and paied fiue giulij for my Mule and two for my dinner I had purposed to see the famous Garden of the Cardinall of Ferraria at Tiuoli whereof I spake in my iourney to Naples but Easter was now at hand and the Priests came to take our names in our lodging and when wee demaunded the cause they told vs that it was to no other end but to know if any receiued not the Cummunion at that holy time which when we heard wee needed no spurres to make haste from Rome into the state of Florence Onely I had an obstinate purpose to see Bellarmine To which end hauing first hired a horse and prouided all things necessary for my iourney to Sienna and hauing sent away my consorts to stay for me with my horse and boots at an Inne in the Suburbs that I might more speedily escape if my purpose succeeded not I boldly went to the Iesuites Colledge and Bellermine then walking in the fields I expected his returne at the gate the Students telling me that he would presently come backe which falling out as they said I followed him into the Colledge being attired like an Italian and carefull not to vse any strange gestures yea forbearing to view the Colledge or to looke vpon any man fully lest I should draw his eyes vpon me Thus I came into Bellermines chamber that I might see this man so famous for his learning and so great a Champion of the Popes who seemed to me not aboue forty yeeres old being leane of body and something low of stature with a long visage and a little sharpe beard vppon the chin of a browne colour and a countenance not very graue and for his middle age wanting the authority of grey heires Being come into his chamber and hauing made profession of my great respect to him I told him that I was a French man and came to Rome for performance of some religious vowes and to see the monuments especially those which were liuing and among them himselfe most especially earnestly intreating to the end I might from his side returne better instructed into my Countrey that he would admit me at vacant houres to enioy his graue conuersation He gently answering and with grauity not so much swallowing the praises I gaue him as shewing that my company should be most pleasing to him commanded his Nouice that he should presently bring me in when I should come to visit him and so after some speeches of curtesie he dismissed me who meant nothing lesse then to come againe to him The very same hower at ten in the morning vpon the Tuseday before Easter I came to my consorts in the Suburbes and presently we tooke horse after a short breakefast The way from Rome to Sienna is thus vulgarly noted A Borgetto sixe miles a l' Isole one a Bacchano sixe a Monterose fiue a Sutri foure a Roneignone three a lago di vigo one a viterbo seuen a Monte fiaschoni seuen a Bolsena seuen a San ' Lorenzo foure a Acquapendente sixe a Recorseto a la Paglia twelue a Scanciericho foure a Buon ' Conuento seuen a Saraualle foure a San ' Michaele de la Seala sixe a Sienna sixe In all from Rome to Sienna ninetie sixe miles I will follow my Italian consorts in describing this iourney who doe not much differ from this vulgar number of miles each of vs paid fifteene paoli for his horse from Rome to Scienna and we had but one Vetturine who went with vs on foote for the Italians vse to ride a slow pace and he was to bring back our horses and to pay for their meat and for his owne The first day after breakfast we rode twentie two miles to Monterose through fruitfull hilles of Corne and some wilde barren fields and Woods at our iournies ende After wee had rode fiue miles we came to a monument lying vpon the high way and called the Sepulcher of Nero in the place where hee killed himselfe when the Senate had condemned him And when we came to the little Towne Bachano I obserued the mountaines to compasse it in the forme of a Theater with a Lake in the middest like the mountaine Astrumo neere Naples Out of this Lake comes a Brooke called Cremera vpon the banke whereof three hundred Fabij with fiue thousand of their followers of old were killed in one day Bacchano of old called Campagnano hath the name of Bacchus And it giues the name to the Territory and to the Wood neere it which is infamous for roberies Monterose is subiect to Pope Clement the eighth then liuing his Nephew so they call their bastards and though it be seated within the old confines of Hetruria yet now it is vnder the Popes dominion Here we supped at an Ordinarie vulgarly Al pasto and each man paied foure giulij and all the company complaining that so much was demaunded for our supper the Hoste so thundred among vs like the bragging souldier as he soone made both strangers and Italians glad to be quiet The second day in the morning we rode eight miles to Lago diVigo where we broke our fast vpon reckoning vulgarly al conto and each man paied eight baocchi After breakfast wee rode foureteene miles to a little Citie Monte fiaschoni hauing passed by the way the Citie Viterbo where Pope Caelestine the third placed a Bishop and made it a Citie Of old it was gouerned by Princes borne in the Towne till vpon ciuill dissention betweene the Family of Gatti aided by the Roman Family Colonna and the Family Magancesi aided by the Roman Family Orsini the Pope brought the Citie into his subiection about the yeere 1446. A most high Mountaine lies neere Viterbo bearing Chesnuts and a great Wood of Oaks infamous for robberies where we did see many quarters of theeues
hanging vpon the trees The way to Viterbo was through a fruitfull Plaine of corne and beyond this Mountaine were store of Oliue trees Vines Viterbo was of old called Faliscum and it hath 3 Cities within the wals but we passing suddenly through it I obserued nothing markeable but a faire Fountaine in the Market-place The way from thence was through a fruitfull Plaine of Corne to the said little Citie Montefiaschoni seated vpon a high Hill at the foote whereof begins the Lake of Bolsena and it is subiect to the Pope hauing no singular thing in it but the white and red Muskedine one of the most famous Wines in Italy Here we three Consorts had two beds for ten baochi and we supped vpon reckoning and each man paied two giulij The third day in the morning we rode eight miles by the Lake Bolsena through a Plaine of Corne hauing woody Hilles of Oakes not farre distant with store of Chessenut and Oliue trees In this Lake there is an Iland which the Queene Amalasuenta famous for her wisdome was killed by the commaund of the King of the Ostrogothes And in the Castle of Balsena they shew a piece of bread consecrated for the Lords Supper which being in the hand of a Priest not beleeuing that it was the very body of Christ did shed bloud as they say who haue many such lying Miracles Then we rode sixe miles to the Castle Acquapendente through a plaine of Corne where each man paied one giulio for his dinner vpon reckoning After dinner we rode through wilde Mountaines bearing little Corne twelue miles to the Brooke Paglia running vnder the Castle Redicofani and diuiding the States of the Pope and the Duke of Florence and we rode further in the State of Florence foure miles to a Country Inne as I thinke called Scancicricho where each man paied three poali and a half for his supper at an Ordinarie vulgarly Al pasto hauing almost nothing but red Herrings and Sallets to supper The fourth day in the morning vpon the last day of Aprill after the new stile in the yeere 1594 wee rode thirteene miles to a Countrey Inne through high Hilles of Corne and for the greater part very firtile where each man paied seuen baochi for his breakefast The same day we rode eighteene miles to Sienna through most pleasant Hilles and a firtile Plaine of Corne with store of Vines on each side and many Pallaces of Gentlemen so they call their houses built of Free-stone with a low roofe and small magnificence and most frequent dwellings of husbandmen We came to Sienna the Friday before Easter day and in a publike Inne each man paied three reali for his Supper The next day I went to Fiorenza for money and rode through Woods and fruitful Hils to the Castle Poggio walled townes being called Castles and after through stony Mountaines bearing Corne and Oliues till I came to the Village Tauernelle being seuenteene miles from Sienna where I paied two reali for my dinner vpon reckoning After dinner I rode fifteene miles to Fiorenza through stony little Mountaines bearing great store of Oliues Almonds and Chessenuts and many Poplar trees and towards our iourneyes end store of Cedar trees and wee passed by innumerable Pallaces of Gentlemen and a most faire Monastery called la Certosa and a desert Rocke vpon the top whereof an Heremite dwelt all alone This Territorie yeeldes great store of Pine-trees the boughes whereof are thicke and round at the top but the rest of the tree hath neither boughes nor leaues and it yeelds a very great Nut with very many kernels in one shell which are pleasant in taste and much vsed here in Banquets By the way I did meete a Dutch Lady with her Gentlewomen and men-seruants all in the habit of Franciscan Friers and not onely going on foote but also bare-footed through these stonie waies and because they were all aswell men as women in Friers weeds though I looked on them with some suspicion yet I knew not their sexe or qualitie till vpon inquirie at Florence I vnderstood that the Dutchesse of Fiorenza or Florente hearing that some women were passed by in Friers apparrell and thinking they were Nunnes stolne out of their Cloisters did cause them to bee brought backe vnto her and so vnderstood that vpon pennance imposed on them by their Confessour for the satisfaction of their sinnes they were enioyned to goe in that Friers habit bare-footed to Rome whereupon she dismissed them with honour I forgot to note what I paid for my horse from Sienna to Florence whether we came vpon Easter day and there I lodged in the Dutch Inne and paid three reali each meale But I did not at this time view the Citie deferring it till my returne The next morning I tooke my iourney to Pisa that by often remouing I might shun all question of my religion into which they vse more strictly to inquire at this time of the yeere when they vse to obserue who receiues not the Sacrament for howsoeuer there be lesse danger of the Inquisition in this State yet the Duke vsing not and scarce being able to protect those that rashly giue open offence I thought good thus warily to auoide these snares I went this iourney on foot meaning leisurely to see the next Cities so little distant one from the other as they were pleasant iourneys on foot especially in so pleasant a Countrie The first day in the morning I walked ten miles to the Castle Prato through the pleasant Valley of the Riuer Arno. This pleasant Castle or walled Towne is of a round forme hauing at the very enterance a large Market place wherein stands a faire Cathedrall Church adorned with many stones of marble and here I paied twelue creitzers for my dinner In the afternoone I walked ten Italian short miles to the City Pistoia through a most pleasant plaine called the Valley of Arno tilled after the manner of Lombardy bearing Corne and Wine in the same field all the Furrowes being planted with Elmes vpon which the Vines grow This Citie is seated in a Plaine and compassed with Mountaines which on other sides are somewhat distant but on the North-side hang ouer the same and here as likewise at Prato and Florence the streetes are paued with broad free stone most casie to walke vpon And the Cathedrall Church is stately built and the pauement is of Marble curiously wrought like the Church of Sienna The Citie hath the name in the Latin tongue as also in the Italian of a plague which inuaded the Citie when the Troopes of the Rebell Catilina being ouercome fled thither whose posteritie being seated there hath nourished a greater plague by perpetual factions shewing thereby of what race they came Desiderius King of Lombardy compassed the Citie with a wall After the Florentines about the yeere 1150 subdued this chiefe Citie of Hetruria vnder whose gouernement first the faction of the Neri and the Bianehi brake out and defiled the
Roman Gate and bearing the Carrier company of whom I hired my horse rode 12 miles the first day after dinner to Marignano through a plaine Country of rich pastures where I paied 3 reali for my supper The second day I rode 30 miles to the Castle Pizighitone through like rich Pastures hauing by the way paid 24 soldi for my dinner and neere my iournies end 3 soldi for my passage ouer the Riuer Adda and at this Castle 1 paied 30 soldi for my Supper The French King Francis the first taken prisoner by the Emperour in the yeere 1525 was for a good space kept with much honour in the tower of this Castle The third day in the morning 1 rode ten miles to Cremoná The Family Pallauicini at this day chiefe in the City when the Empire of Rome decaied made themselues Lords of this Citie whom Galeatius Vicount of Milan subdued and vnited the City to the State of Milan and so by the said Dukedome subdued by the Spaniards it came into their subiection The Cardinall Francis Sfondrato and Eusebius the writer of the Ecclesiasticall Historie were borne in this Citie The forme of the City seemes very like to a Cardinals Hat with broad brimes and it is seated in a Plaine one mile distant from the Riuer Po. Wee entred this Citie by the narrow part lying towards Milan and there is a most strong Fort built to keepe the Citizens in awe and kept by a Spanish Garison and seated in a plaine field wherein are no other buildings but the Fort it selfe From hence going to the opposite broader part of the Citie is a large and very faire Market place neare which is a Tower or Steeple of such height and beautie as the Italians prouerbially say One Peter at Rome one Hauen at Ancona one Tower at Cremona thereby noting the excellencie This Tower is built of bricke and hath foure hundred ninetie and two staires in the ascent Neare the same is a statua of a Giant who they say was ouercome by Hercules the founder of the Citie and the Citizens keepe a feast once a yeere at which time with many ceremonies they adorne this statua with rich robes Neere this Tower and Market place lies the stately Cathedrall Church and the fairest and richest Monastery is that of Saint Dominick This Citie hath many stately Pallaces and the streetes thereof are broad and very pleasant Here I payed thirtie three soldi that is the fourth part of a Ducaton for my supper From hence to Mantua are fortie fiue miles whether I hired a horse for fiue lires The first day we rode twentie two miles where going out of the Dutchie of Milan and passing the Riuer Oye wee entered the Dutchie of Mantua and then rode nine miles to Mercaria And by the way we passed the pleasant Castle or rather Citie called Bozilia belonging to Iulius Gonzaga being of the Family of the Dukes of Mantua which Castle was built with open cloisters or arches toward the streete vnder which the passengers walke drie in the greatest raine and such are the buildings of the Cities in this Dukedome and in many neighbour places By the way also in a solitary Inne I paid fifteene soldi for my dinner and at Mercaria I payed thirtie foure soldi for my supper The second day we rode fourteene miles to Mantua through most fruitfull fieldes tilled after the manner of Lombardy and in a most durtie highway The Histories report that this Citie had the name of Manto the daughter of Tyresias It is seated in the middest of Fennes or Lakes made by the Riuer Mencius The buildings are partly of Brick partly of Free stone and the streetes are large and cleane The forme of this Citie is round saue that the foresaid Lakes on the North and East-sides enter into the Citie in the forme of an halfe Moone Comming from Cremona I entred Mantua on the West side by the Gate Praedella where is a faire streete called Il Borgo On the same side towards the South is the Gate Pistrella which leades to the Dukes stately Pallace called Teye seated some mile out of the Citie and compassed with water where in the Giants Chamber I did see most faire pictures and it is built in a quadrangle onely two stories high with a low roofe after the manner of the building of Italy On the South-side is the Gate of 〈◊〉 whence the way lies by the banke of the Lake to a Village called Petula two miles distant from the Citie in which they say that the famous Poet Virgil was borne and shew the house where his parents dwelt Partly on the North and partly on the East side the Citie is compassed with Lakes which vsually are couered with infinite number of water foule and from these Lakes there is a passage into the Riuer Po and so by water to Venice On the North-East side is the Gate of S. George whence betweene the two Lakes is a causey two hundred walking paces long and beyond it a bridge of stone fiue hundred paces long like to a faire gallery couered ouer the head and supported with bricke pillars hauing open windowes two paces distant one from the other then passing a draw-bridge you come to another causey betweene the said two Lakes which causey is two hundred forty walking paces long before you come to firme land On the East side of the said bridge and within the Citie the Dukes stately Pallace lies vpon the Lake and to this Pallace ioyneth the Cathedrall Church of Saint Peter where also is a pleasant Market-place There lie the Dukes stables and in one of them were some hundred horses for the saddle and in the other as many for the Coach and he hath a third stable without the Gates wherein is the like number of young Colts On the North-side at the furthest banke of the Lake is one onely Gate and a like bridge to passe into the Suburbes and there lics the way to the chiefe Pallace of the Duke some few miles distant from the Citie called 〈◊〉 the building whereof is onely two stories hic with a low roofe and the chiefe chambers were hung with guilded leather after the Italian maner three skins whereof were commonly sold for a Crowne and the Gardens of this Pallace were exceeding pleasant In the middest of the Citie Mantua is a large Market place wherein the Iewes haue their shops and sell all manner of wares for all trafficke is in their hands growing rich by the pouertie of the Citizens and being so much fauoured by the Duke as they dwell not in any seuerall part of the Citie but where they lift and in the very Market-place neither are they forced as in other parts of Italy to weare yellow or red caps whereby they may bee knowne but onely a little piece of yellow cloth on the left side of their cloakes so as they can hardly be distinguished from Christians especially in their shops where they weare no cloakes Such
Vpon the same South side within the wals is a faire market place and the Pallace of the Venetian Gouernour which Gouernour in Italy is vulgarly called Il Podesta And necre the wals on this side lies a stately Monument of an old Amphitheater at this day little ruined vulgarly called Harena and built by Luc Flaminius though others say it was built by the Emperour Octauius It passeth in bignesse all the old Amphitheaters in Italy and the outside thereof is of Marble and the inner side with all the seates is of bricke It is of an ouall forme and the inner yard is sixety three walking paces long and forty eight broade where the lowest seates are most narrow whence the seates arise in forty foure staires or degrees howsoeuer others write that there be onely forty two degrees and they so arise as the vpper is still of greater circuit then the lower And the shoppes of the Citizens built on the outside vnder the said increase of the inner circuit haue about fifty two walking paces in bredth which is to be added to make the full breadth of the inside It hath eighteene gates and betweene euery Arch are very faire statuaes and the seates within the same are said to bee capable of twentie three thousand one hundred eightie and foure beholders each one hauing a foote and a halfe allowed for his seate Each one of vs gaue two gagetti to the keeper of this monument Alboinus King of the Lombards was killed by his wife at Verona In the Monastery of Saint Zeno is a Monument erected to Pipin sonne to Charles the Great and betweene this Monastery and the next Church in a Church yard vnder the ground is the Monument of Queene Amalasaenta Barengarius King of Italy was killed at Verona and this City braggeth of two famous Citizens namely the old Poet Catullus and Guarinus a late writer The territorie of this Citie is most fruitfull abounding with all necessaries for life and more specially with rich Wines particularly the Retian wine much praised by Pliny and preferred to the Wine of Falernum by Virgill which the Kings of the Gothes were wont to carrie with them as farre as Rome It is of a red colour and sweet and howsoeuer it seemes thicke more fit to be eaten then drunke yet it is of a most pleasant taste The Lake Bennaeus is much commended for the store of good Carpes and other good fish besides this territory yeelds very good marble Here I paid forty soldi for my supper and sixteene soldi for the stable that is for hay and straw and eighteene soldi for three measures of Oates Certaine Gentlemen bearing me company from Paduoa to this City and being to returne thither did here each of them hire a horse for three lires and a halfe to Vicenza where they were to pay for their horse meat From hence I rode fifteene miles to the Castle Peschiera built by the old Lords of Verona and seated vpon the Lake Bennacus vulgarly called Il Lago di Gardo where they demanded of me two quatrines for the passage of a bridge but when I shewed them my Matricula that is a paper witnessing that I was a scholler of Paduoa they dismissed me as free of all Tributes And in like sort by the same writing I was freed at Paduoa from paying six soldi and at Verona from paying eight soldi I rode from this Castle seuen miles to a Village seated vpon the same Lake famous for the pleasant territory and the aboundance of good fish and here I paid twenty soldi for my dinner and eight soldi for my horse meat All my iourney this day was in a most sweet plaine rising still higher with faire distances so as the ascent could hardly be seene After dinner I rode eighteene miles to Brescia which City flourished vnder thelold Emperours of Italy then was subiect to the Lombards and tyrant Kings of Italy and they being ouercome to Charles the Great and French Gouernours then to the Westerne Emperours of Germany and to the Italian family of the Berengarij And it obtained of the Emperour Otho the priuiledge to be a free City of the Empire till being wasted by the factions of the Guelphi and Gibellini the Scaligeri a family of the same City made themselues Lords thereof whom the Vicounts of Milan cast out of the Citie and when Phillip Maria Duke of Milan oppressed the City and would not be induced to ease the same of his great impositions they yeelded themselues in the yeere 1509 to the French King who had defeated the Venetian Army Then by the French Kings agreement with the Emperour Maximiltan the Citie was giuen into the Emperours hands whose Nephew the Emperour Charles the fifth restored the same to the French King Francis the first who likewise in the yeere 1517 gaue the same into the hands of the Venetians The most fruitfull territorie of Brescia hath mines of Iron and brasse and I thinke so many Castles Villages and Houses so little distant the one from the other can hardly be found else where The Brooke Garza runs through the City which is of a round forme and is seated for the most part in a plaine and towards the North vpon the side of a mountaine where a Tower is built which hath many houses adioining and in this Tower or Castle the Venctian Gouernour dwels who takes an oath that he will neuer goe out of the same till a new Gouernour be sent from Venice The Cities building is of bricke the streetes are large and are paued with flint Boniface Bembus was a Citizen of Brescia and the Brescians as also the Citizens of Bergamo are in manners and customes more like the French their old Lords then the other Italians farther distant from France and the very weomen receiue and giue salutations and conuerse with the French liberty without any offence to their husbands which other Italians would neuer indure Here I paid forty soldi for my supper and forty soldi for foure measures of oates and for the stable From hence I rode thirty two miles to Bergamo and as the territories in this part of Italy lying vpon the South sunne which beats vpon the sides of the hils and mountaines with great reflection of heat and vpon the other side defended from the cold windes of the North and East by the interposition of the Alpes are singularly fruitfull and pleasant so for the first twenty miles of this daies iourney they seemed to me more pleasant then the very plaine of Capua yeelding plenty of corne and of vines growing vpon Elmes in the furrowes of the lands which Elmes are planted in such artificiall rowes as the prospect thereof much delighteth the eye And the other twelue miles were yet more pleasant being tilled in like sort and towards my iournies end yeelding most large and rich pastures The City Bergamo after the Roman Empire was extinct first obeyed the Lombards then the French and following the fortune
little Mountaine The houses are vniformely and very fairely built of free-storie hauing the first vpper roomes of the houses cast out towards the streetes and supported with arches vnder which they walke drie in the greatest raine Round about this little Mountaine the Citizens haue their gardens from the fall of the same to the lowest Valleyes and vpon the South-East by South is a most faire Church and very pleasant for the light somnesse thereof and on euery side there is a pleasant place for walking On the South side without the walles the Riuer Arba runnes from the West to the East and is passed by a bridge at the East ende of the Citie whence it turneth towards the North and so makes the Citie almost an Iland Here I paied fourteene batzen for my supper and horsemeate The fourth day in the morning I rode three miles in sixe houres space through fruitfull fieldes of Corne and pasture to Solothurn And by the way I obserued a monument of the English defeated by the Sweitzers with this in scription in Dutch Ritterlich erschlagen die English gùckler Anno 1425 arme Iucke That is The English Iuglers Knightly beaten in the yeere 1425 poore Knaues The English Histories make no mention of any warre with the Sweitzers Semler a Sweitzer Historian in his first booke fifty fourth leafe writes that Leopold Duke of Austria drew the English against the Sweitzers and that they did much hurt by wasting the Territories aswell of Austria as of Sweitzerland but that they being ouercome in some battels did after the wasting of these Countries returne home in the yeere 1376 and this he calles the first English warre Also Semler in his first booke the leafe 273 writes that the English as it seemes called from the French warre did at the instance of Duke Leopold besiege Strassburg in the yeere 1365 but the Emperor Charles the fourth comming with an armie against them that they retired But neither doe the words of Semler agree since he calles the first attempt the first English warre and after mentions another of former time neither doe the yeeres set downe by Semler agree with the yeeres of this monument neither seemes it by the French Histories that the English had any leasure to make warre vpon the Sweitzers in the yeere 1365 and lesse in the yeere 1376. To conclude it appeares aswell by the English as French Histories that the English Conquerours in France had so weightie a warre lying there vpon them in the yeere 1425 set downe in this monument as it is not credible they could at that time turne their forces any other way Only the most approued French Writers witnes that the English and French hauing made a truce for eighteene moneths in the yeere 1443 it seemed good to the leaders on both sides that the souldiers hating rest and peace should be drawne out to some forraine warre and that the English seruing vnder Lewis the Dolphin of France the said Lewis in the yeere 1444 making warre vpon the Sweitzers killed therein 4000 of them but the victorie was so bloudy of this battell fought in the territorie of Bazel as he that had the victorie lost some 5000 men of his owne and that the Emperour Frederick the third comming against him he drew his men backe For my part I leaue the credit of this monument to be tried by the consent of Historians and returne to my iourney The fifth day in the morning I rode foure miles to the Towne Ottmersea and in the afternoone through a stony Plaine of Corne and some Woods I rode foure miles to Besa The sixth day in the morning I rode fiue miles through the like Plaine to Gerzen and in the after-noone through a woody heath Plaine and towards my iournies end through fruitfull fields of Corne I rode foure miles to Strassburg And in all this iourney I payed about seuen batzen for each meale From Solothurne to Strassburg some reckon senentene miles others twenty two miles for the Dutch reckon the miles diuersly according to the length of them in their owne Countrey and in these parts they vse to distinguish their iournies by howers riding not by miles Not farre from the foresaid Towne Besa lies the Citie Bazell which I haue described in my former iourney through these parts But to gratifie those who loue to search antiquities giue me leaue to say that Augusta Rauracorum so called for distinction from Augusta Vindelicorum a Citie of great antiquitie and at this day become a poore Village lies distant from Bazell some mile towards the Mountaine Iura and that neere this ancient Citie are many old monuments of the Romans and many buildings vnder the earth which my selfe being lesse curious did not see and that the Husbandmen there digged vp lately a coyne of gold and sold it for copper which was after valued at nine Crownes of the old Romans I say nothing of Strassburg which I haue in the foresaid place formerly described onely I will say that I had the good fortune there to find a French Gentleman the Gouernour of Monwick with his traine in whose company I rode thither 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 a fruitfull Plaine of Corne foure miles to Sauerne in which Citie the Papisticall Chanons of Strassburg haue long fortified themselues vnder the protection of the Duke of Loraine against their Lords the Senators of Strassburg and haue appropriated to themselues great part of the reuenewes of that Bishoppricke lying vnder their power After dinner I rode three miles through Hilles yet couered with snow to Villa Noua Concerning my expences I spent each day little lesse then a French Crowne namely two franckes for my supper and commonly three French soulz for my breake-fast and one franck for my horsemeate The second day I rode one mile to the confines of the Empire and the Dukedome of Loraine and some three miles further to Monwick where so much salt is made as the Duke of Loraine yeerely receiues sixty thousand French Crownes for the same The third day through a dyrtie way and fruitfull fieldes of Corne I rode fiue miles to the Citie Nanzi where the Duke of Loraine keepes his Court and when I was entring the Gate the Captaine of the Guard drew towards mee to know my name and Countrie I not ignorant that the Family of Loraine vsurping great power in France vnder the pretence to defend the Roman Religion bare no good will to the English at that time answered that I was a Polonian hee inquired many things of the Kingdome King and Queene of Poland and perceiuing that I answered him directly hee whispered something with some chiefe men of the Guard about my confidence and so turning againe to me bad me lift vp my hand for so the French vse to take othes I was much affraid lest I should bee forced vpon this oath to confesse my Countrey which I had dissembled but when I demaunded the cause hee told mee
that many places being infected by the Plague I was to sweare that I came not from any of them which to be freed from my former feare I did gladly assure him vpon my oath The Citie is strongly fortified saue that the South side where the circuit of the Citie was inlarged was not yet compassed with walles neither were the houses on that side yet built The houses are fairely built of free stone The Dukes Pallace was built foure square with a large inner Court all of free stone and with a high Gallerie towards the said Court-yard and there I had the opportunitie to see the Duke and the Princes and the Princesses his children Finding not heere any companie for my iourney into France which I hoped to finde at Metz and thinking it not conuenient to stay longer then I must needes in a place for the time ill affected to the English I rode the fourth day eight French miles to Metz. In the time of the Emperour Charles the fifth the French tooke this Citie from the Empire aud at this day it was held for Henrie the fourth King of France by a Garrison of his men and euery one now talking of Peace made in France yet it was not then proclaimed in these parts nor vpon any of the confines of France My selfe after few dayes stay finding no consorts for my iourney into France was admonished by some honest Gentlemen in this Citie that this iourney would bee very dangerous to mee in respect that the armie being broken vp all France would bee full through all parts of scattering troopes of Souldiers returning to their owne homes But when they perceiued that I was obstinate in my purpose to passe through France into England they perswaded mee at least to sell my Horse and goe on foote for they said the bootie of a good Horse would surely cause mee to bee robbed by those who might perhaps let me passe quietly on foot disguised in poore apparrell for they seeing mee well mounted would surely set vpon me and twenty to one kill me aswel because they that rob in France do commonly kill them they rob as because they would imagine mee to bee a souldier either on the Kings or on the Leagers side and in that case if I were on their owne side would kill me for feare of being forced to restitution and if I were on the aduerse part would thinke mee well killed as an enemie Besides that the Marshals of the Kingdome at the ende of a Ciuill warre vsed such seueritie of iustice to suppresse all disorders as they would surely kill mee lest I should complaine of them Whereas if I passed on foote they were like either to let mee goe in peace or at least to bee content with my money without offering further violence to mee whom they would iudge to bee of some base condition This their counsell I approued and howsoeuer vnwillingly sold my Horse for sixteene French Crownes In this Citie I payed a franck each meale It is a faire Citie and well fortified and it is seated vpon a Hill in a fat soile fruitfull of Corne and the Riuer Mosella running from Nancey in a Plaine passeth close by the West Gate of the Citie where it is to bee passed by a couered bridge Being to take my iourney towards Paris on foote I hired a poore man to guide me to Chalons and to carry my cloake and my little baggage The first day after dinner wee went two French miles by the banke of the said Riuer through a dyrtie way and a Countrie fruitfull of Corne but hauing no Woods not so much as a tree and came to a poore Village By the way I passed by Pontmolin where of old was a faire bridge to passe ouer Mosella the ruines whereof at this day are called Arches de Ioye In this my iourney to Paris I spent each day for my dyet about twentie foure soulz The second day we went two miles to Pont and fiue miles to Toul where I payed two testoones and a halfe for a paire of shooes Our way was very dyrtie through fruitfull fields of Corne and we often heard the cries of the Country people driuing their cattell to fortified places vpon the seeing of some scattered troopes of Souldiers which made vs much affraid and that not without iust cause but God deliuered vs from this danger The third day I being so wearie as I could not goe on foot hired for one Frank two post horses returning homeward for me my guide to ride 2 miles after 2 horses for three frankes for vs to ride three miles to Saint Aubine The fourth day I hired two horses for vs for a French Crowne and we rode fiue miles to Bar in a faire way through Pastures and Hilles planted with Vines yeelding a rich Wine and fruitfull fields of Corne. And this day we passed by the Village Longeuille which the Countrey people had fortified in this ciuill warre to defend themselues from being spoiled by sudden inuasions though otherwise they were each night forced to lodge some Troope or other Hauing dined plentifully at Bar and being refreshed with excellent wine in the after noone we went foure miles through the like way to the Village Ampton Cour where a French Gentleman dwelt who the same day had there proclaimed the Peace For now wee had passed the confines of Loraine and this was the first Village of France in the Prouince of Champaigne The fifth day being after the new stile the first of May in the yeere 1595 wee went on foote nine long French miles to Chalons At the end of the first two miles wee came to the first house standing alone and called la rouge maison that is the red house inhabited onely by an old woman who would giue vs nothing to eate or drinke and in all the rest of the way we did neither see Village nor house nor so much as a tree The fields were plaine and all the Prouince according to the name was a Champion Countrey and seemed apt to beare great store of Corne but now in the time of Ciuill warre they lay vnploughed and the Husbandmens houses were fallen to the ground Yea wee could not finde so much as water to quench our thirst so as my guide was forced to drinke the standing water lying in the cartruts of the high way and my selfe to quench my thirst did chew the crust of a browne loafe which he had giuen me whereby I kept my mouth moist casting the crust away when I had chewed it We had now scarce entred France when suddenly the mischiefe fell vpon me which my friends at Metz had foretold me When I had passed halfe this dayes iourney I met with some dozen horsemen whose Captaine demaunded of me my name and Countrey I answered that I was a Dutch man and the seruant of a Dutch Merchant who staied for me at Chalons whether I was then going He as it seemed to me thinking it dishonourable
twelfth did build with Regall expence this Chamber and another called the Chamber of Accounts vulgarly la chambre des comptes In this Pallace the Chappell built by Saint Lewis lyes vpon an arched Chappell which hath no pillars in the middest but onely on the sides and they say that the true Images of Christ and the blessed Virgin are vpon the lower dore And in this Chappell the reliques are kept which Balduinus the Emperour of Constantinople ingaged to the Venetians and the King of France redeemed out of their hands In the very Hall of the Pallace round about the pillars are shops of small wares or trifles Right against the Gate of the Pallace stood the house of Iohn Chastell which was pulled downe in memorie of a young man his sonne brought vp among the Iesuites and a practiser of their wicked doctrine who attempting the death of King Henrie the fourth did strike out one of his teeth I haue said formerly that this Iland was ioyned to the Ville by three Bridges and to the Vniuersitie by two Bridges and at this time is ioyned to them both by the sixth Bridge The first V Bridge towards South-East leades to the street of Saint Martin and is called pont de nostre Dame that is the Bridge of our Lady and it was built of wood in the yeere 1417 hauing threescore walking paces in length and eighteene in breadth and threescore houses of bricke on each side built vpon it But this bridge in the time of Lewis the twelfth falling with his owne weight was rebuilt vpon sixe Arches of stone with threescore eight houses all of like bignesse built vpon it and was paued with stone so that any that passed it could hardly discerne it to bee a Bridge The second Bridge of the Broakers vulgarly W Pont au Change is supported with pillars of wood The third Bridge of the Millers vulgarly called X Pont aux Musniers lies towards the North-West and leades to the streete of Saint Denis which they say did fall and was rebuilt within three yeeres then past By these three Bridges the Iland was of old ioyned to the Ville The fourth Bridge lying on the other side of the Iland towards the South leades into the streete of Saint Iames and is called Y le petit pont that is The little Bridge being rebuilt or repaired of stone by King Charles the sixth The sifth Bridge is called Z Saint Michell and lying towards the South-West side leades into the streete of Saint Michell and hath a pleasant walke towards the foresaid Bridge of the millers on the other side of the Iland and built vpon pillars of wood was repaired in the yeere 1547 and adorned with bricke houses By these two Bridges the Iland was of old ioyned to the Vniuersitie Since that time after the ende of the Ciuill warre a new Bridge hath been lately built on that side of the Iland which lyes towards the north-North-West and it is called XX pont neuf that is The new Bridge ioyning the Iland both to the Ville and to the Vniuersitie The chiefe streetes of the Iland are the very Bridges and the 〈◊〉 waies leading to the Cathedrall Church and to the greater Pallace The Church or the little Citie compassed with walles in respect of the Church of Saint Denis the Protecting Saint of the French is two little miles distant from Paris Hither I went passing by the Gate of Saint Denis lying towards the North East Thence I passed vpon a way paued with Flint in a large Plaine towards the East hauing Mount Falcon on my right hand whether I said that they vse to draw the dead bodies of those that are beheaded in the Ville and the next way to this mount is to goe out by the Gate of Saint Martin And vpon my left hand I had the Mountaine of the Martirs vulgarly called Mont Martre and the next way from the Citie to this Mountaine is to goe out by the Gate Mont Martre Vpon this Mountaine they say that the Martyrs Dennis Areopagita and Rustieus and Eleutherius were beheaded in the time of Domitian because they would not offer sacrifice to Mercurie And they constantly beleeue this miracle that all these three Martyrs carried each one his head to the Village Catula which now is called Saint Dennis And I obserued by the way many pillars with Altars set vp in the places where they say the Martyrs rested forsooth with their heades in their hand and at last fell downe at Catula where this Church was built ouer them and likewise a a Monastery by King Dagobertus who also lyes there buried and hath a statua in the Cloister of the Monastery Here are the Sepulchers of the Kings among which that of King Francis the 〈◊〉 is somewhat more stately then the other being of white Marble with the statuaes of that King and his Queene Claudia there buried with him That of Lewis the twelfth and his Queene is of white Marble but lesse faire and the third erected to Charles the eight in a Chappell of the Church is of blacke Marble with some statuaes of brasse To conclude to euery three or foure of the rest of the Kings one poore monument is erected Neither are these sepulchers of the Kings in my opinion any thing stately or answerable to the fame But at the entrance of the Chauncell the representation of Christ buried and of the three Kings or Wisemen and of the shepheards and others there engrauen seemed to me who haue no skill in that Art to bee of much Art and beautie I haue read other Itineraries which relate that here are bells of most pure Mettal that the dores are of Brasse guilded ouer that the Table of the high Altar is of Gold that here is a Crosse of Gold offered by King Dagobert that the bodies of the Martyrs are laid in a coffin of Gold that the roofe of the Church is partly of siluer and that there is a Crucifix of Gold before the Altar But I should thinke that these old ornaments are taken away and not to bee seene at this day Hauing viewed Paris I desired to see the French King Henrie the fourth and his Court and because I lately had been robbed aswell of my cloake as of my Crownes here I bought for some two French Crownes an old cloake among the Brokers in the Market place called the Fripperie So I tooke my iourney towards the Court and went by boate vpon the Seyne which boat daily passeth from Paris towards the South nine leagues to Corbeuile and foure leagues to Melune hauing on both sides pleasant Hilles planted with Vines and I payed seuen soulz for my passage Then I went on foote foure miles ouer a Mountaine paued with Flint to the Kings Pallace called Fontain-bleau that is the Fountaine of faire water Beyond the same Mountaine this Pallace of the King is seated in a Plaine compassed with Rockes And it is built with Kingly Magnificence of Free-stone diuided into
we walked on foot one mile to Midleburge where being inuited by our friends as we were at Vlishing we supped on free cost The twelfth day wee passed by Sea in two houres space to Armuren where wee cast anchor not without feare of Spanish Pirats who comming with small boates out of the Castle Wouda did then many robberies vpon this Sea The thirteenth day in the morning wee sailed nine miles to the Iland Plat where a Man of warre sent out by the States against these Pirats did lie at anchor vnder the guard whereof we also lay at anchor the night following The fourteenth day in the morning hauing alwaies a faire winde wee sailed eight milcs to Delphs hauen in Holland where we left our Barke and each man payed twelue stiuers for his passage and my selfe gaue three stiuers to a Marriner that had attended me From hence my selfe and three consorts hired a Wagon for 18 stiuers to the Hage where I payed for my supper a Flemish guilden and seuenteene stiuers The fiftenth day of December which after the new stile was Christmas day that Feast by the old stile falling on the twentie fiue of December my selfe and three consorts hired a Wagon for two guldens for two long miles to Leyden From Leyden at a set hower euery day boates passe to all the next Cities and we entring the boat that went for Amsterdam payed each of vs 6 stiuers for our passage First wee passed fiue miles vpon the Lake called Harlam Meare which Lake is much subiect to Tempests Our boate was then drawne by force of hands ouer a Damme into a Channell of water in which we passed two miles and so came to Amsterdam The boates are thus drawne out of the Lake into the Channell by a priuiledge granted to Harlam because that Citie had spent much money in the workes for conueyance of waters And this was granted to them to the ende that this passage being shut vp to Barkes of greater burthen the Merchants wares passing by land should be forced to come by Harlam We lodged in a English Merchants house at Amsterdam and payed eight stiuers for each meale The seuenteenth of December we entred a little ship to saile out of Holland into West-Freesland but being almost frozen in with yce after wee had sailed two dayes and a night with great danger through huge pieces of yce and were the second night also compassed therewith and had been forced to lie at anchor a good space we hardly arriued the third day at Horne in North Holland which Citie is fiue miles distant from Amsterdam and each man payed ten stiuers for our passage and two stiuers for the vse of a little cabbin in the ship The ninteenth day we would needs go on foot two miles as long as ten English miles to Enchnsen because they asked foure guldens and a half for a Wagon And in the mid way it hapned that we light vpon a sledg which wee 4 consorts hired for 20 stiuers and therin wee were all carried but for my part I paied 5 stiuers more for the cariage of my necessaries And we could not sufficiently maruell at our first setting forth that the Villages should be so frequent in such an obscure Countrey as wee could hardly see how they were parted one from the other for halfe the way at least From hence we sailed with a very faire wind in three houres space two miles to Stauern a Village seated in West Freezland and each man paid ten stiuers for his passage foure for his supper and foure for beere The next day we passed on foot one mile of Freezland which miles are exceeding long to Warcome and we hired two Clownes for two guldens to carry our necessaries which Clownes drinking stoutly all the night we were forced beyond our bargaine to pay for their intemperance which wrong we could not auoid though we much repined at it Early in the morning we passed by water one mile ouer a Lake to Bolsworth and each man paid two stiuers and a halfe for his passage and eight stiuers and a halfe for his dinner In the afternoone we hired a boat for three miles to Lewerden and each man paid sixe stiuers for his passage and thirty foure stiuers for his supper and breakefast with wine The next day in the morning we might haue passed to Groning in a common boat each man paying twelue stiuers but because the couetous Marriners had ouerloaded it and the winds were boisterous we foure consorts hired a priuate boate for seuen guldens and a halfe The first day we passed by water fiue miles to Kaltherberg that is the cold Inne with a very faire wind but so boysterous as we were in no small feare Here each man paid twelue stiuers for his supper and seuen stiuers for his drinke while in good fellowship we sate at the fier after supper The next day we passed in the same boat two miles to Groning in a great tempest of wind besides that in the midst of the Lake we lost our Rudder being thereby in great danger had not the waues of the water by Gods mercy driuen it to vs. Here we paid eight stiuers each man for a plentifull dinner but without wine In the afternoone we passed by water two miles to Delphs I le and each man paid forty stiuers for the hier of the boate and twenty foure stiuers for supper and breakefast and fire in our priuate chamber From hence we sayled with a most faire wind in two houres space two miles to Emden the first City of the German Empire seated in East Friezland and each man paid sixe stiuers for his passage and as much for his dinner In the afternoone we passed in a boat hired for foure guldens whereof each man paid ten stiuers for his part three miles to a little City Lyre and by the way passed by the Fort Nordlire in which the Earle of Emden held his Court. We rested at Lyre this night and the next day being Christmas day by the old stile and each man paid sixteene stiuers for each supper and eight stiuers for one dinner The Spanish Garisons daily sent out free-booters into these parts with the permission of the Earle of Emden for his hatred to the Citizens of Emden who lately had shut him out of their City and of the Earle of Oldenburge for his hatred against the Citizens of Breme Therefore we being here many passengers did at last obtaine of the Earle of Emden that we might hier his souldiers to conduct vs safely for some few miles To these souldiers we gaue twenty one dollers yet when at the three miles end we came to the Village Stickhausen and were now in the greatest danger they as hired to goe no further would needes returne till each of vs gaue them a German gulden to conduct vs onely to the next village being the confines of the Counties of Emdens and Oldenburg To which they were perswaded not so much by our prayers as by
hauing eleuen pillars seuen foote distant one from the other whereof many were of porphery and had beautifull spots The highest roofe of the Church on the inside is painted with Histories of the Scripture with a rich painting that shineth with gold and glasse as if it were enameled called in Italian Alla Mosaica and the pauement is rich with stones of marble porphery and Iaspar From the lesse Church called of Saint Katherine we entred a Caue vnder the earth where the Friars gaue euery one of vs a lighted waxe candle in his hand Let them place what religion they will therein I am sure the Caue was so darke as we could not haue passed it without a light In this Caue wee did first see the bones of the Infants killed by Herod then the Sepulchers of Eusebius and of Saint Ierome in his Chappell for they hold that he long dwelt there Then they did lead vs into a more darke place where they say he did liue an austere life fifty yeeres space and translated the Bible out of Hebrew into Latine and wrote many volumes But the place seemed to me more fit to dull the braine then to yeeld such fruites of wit by reason it was darke and digged deepe vnder ground From this Caue we ascended by ten marble staires into a Chappell all couered with marble and lying in length from the West at which end we entered to the East And from this West end as well Turkes as Christians of all sects goe vpon their knees to the Easterne end and there kisse a marked stone in the pauement in which verie place they say the Redeemer of the World was borne By this stone on the South-side lieth a little Chappell hauing two doores onely diuided with a pillar In which Chappell at the right hand or West-side is a manger raised from the ground and all of marble in which they say Christ was laid after his birth and in the wall they shew a stone hauing as they say the liuely picture of Saint Hierome In the said little Chappell on the left hand or East side they shew a place where they say Christ was circumcised and shed the first drops of his precious blood for the sauing of mankind And there they fhewed another place where they say the Wise-men of the East adored Christ and offered to him their gifts The wals of both Chappels the pauements and all things are couered with marble The roofe on the inside is painted with the foresaid rich pictures glistering likeenamelled worke To conclude all things are stately and rich and remain so vnder the Turkish tiranny yet more rich in the Chappell of Chrsts birth then in the greater Church where all things then began to fall to ruine because the Turkes beleeue not that Christ died The Turkes doe so reuerence this monument of Christs birth as they creepe groueling vpon hands knees to kisse the said stone yet in the meane time they despise the monuments of his death because they beleeue not that he died From hence going Backe the same way we entered they shew vpon the right hand a hole in the highest roofe of the Church by which they say the starre that conducted the Wise-men fell from aboue into the bowels of the earth Can he forbeare laughter who considers the bignes of the starres yea euen of Comets as some write that was specially finding no mention of this falling of the starre to be made in the holy scriptures The City or Village of Bethlehem is distant from Ierusalem some fiue miles in Turky I alwaies vnderstand Italian miles and we came hither from the Westerne gate of Ierusalem through a faire way and mountaines planted with Vines Oliues and fruitfull Trees Bethlehem is seated vpon Mountaines and hath pleasant hils on the East and South-sides a pleasant plaine on the North-side ending in great mountaines towards Ierusalem 84 As wee went out of Bethlehem to visit the Monuments here they shewed vs the field in which the Angell made knowne the birth of Christ to the Shepheards and the Caue wherein they did lie by day to shun the heate of the Sunne 85 Here they say the Patriarch Lot planted the first Vine 86 Here beyond pleasant Hilles wee did distinctly see the Plaine of Iordan and the dead Sea with the situation of Sodom and Gomorra 87 Here they say Bethalia was seated of old 88 Here we did see the ruines of a house in which they say Ioseph the Virgins Husband did dwell 89 Here they say the Virgin hid her selfe from the tyranny of Herod 90 Here they say that King Salomon had his Garden The Franciscan Friers sent out of Italy each third yeere into these parts did courtcously intertaine vs at Bethlehem and at our first comming in imitation of Christ they washed our feete It happened that my brother fell sicke here of an Ague and so when our consorts vpon Saterday in the euening returned to Ierusalem wee were forced to stay here that night But the next day in the euening we came to them at the Monastery of Ierusalem And because they made haste to returne homeward wee went forth the next day being Munday the tenth of Iune earely in the morning to see the Mountaines of Iudea And that day it happened that I was troubled with loosenesse of body whereof I made good vse as I shall hereafter shew which makes me name it We went out of the Citie at the Gate of Ioppa on the West side and vpon our right hand they shewed vs 91 this place where they say that Salomon was anointed King 92 Thence we went right forward to a Fountaine in the Desart where they say Phillip the Apostle did interpret the Scriptures to the Eunuch of Candace Queene of Ethropii and baptized him 93 Here they say is the Desart in which Iohn Baptist preached and they shewed vs his Caue cut out of a Rocke and a long stone therein vpon which he vsed to lye and a pleasant spring issuing out of the Rocke where hee vsed to drinke and another stone vpon which he vsed to sit 94 He e we came to the Mountaines or Mountanous places of Iudea and here they say the Prophet Zacharias dwelt where a woman of the Moores kept the Church of old built there 95 From hence a Musket shot or little more is another house which they say belonged to Zacharias and in one of these houses he pronounced the Song Blessed bee the Lord God of Israel c. And when the Virgin visited Elizabeth the Babe here sprang in her wombe and the Virgin here pronounced the Song My soule doth magnifie c. And Iohn Raptist was borne here 96 From this place they say the Tree was taken vpon which the Crosse of Christ was made and Greeke Friers keepe the Church that was here built This place is two miles distant from Ierusalem whether we returned the same way we came out and entered the Citie by the West Gate of Ioppa The
the Butlers declared themselues for Tyrone as soone as Loughfoyle Garrison was planted at his backe his Lordship doubted not to be able to meete the Lord President in Kilkenny and with their ioynt Forces to subdue the Rebels and set those parts in obedience At this time the Fort of Phillipstown in Ophaley otherwise called the Kings County was to be victualed and Ony Mac Rory with the O Mores in Leax together with the O Conners in Ophaly bragged that the Queenes forces should not be able to victuall it Now by the emulation of one of our chiefe Commanders against another preferred before him and strengthened by the Court factions of England the said Commander had set out some weake Companies for this seruice to be led by the other as in preheminence of his place but a neere friend to the Lord Deputie conceiuing how much this first actions successe might adde reputation or giue a blemish both to his Lordship and the Army gaue notice thereof so as his Lordship offering the same Commander the leading of those Companies he refusing to goe with them manifested the suspected emulation Whereupon his Lordship caused foureteene strong Companies to be allotted and gaue the command of them in chiefe to Sir Oliuer Lambert who conducted the victuals and led the men with such iudgement and valour as being strongly fought with at the comming off and especially at the going on yet they performed the seruice with great losse and discouragement to those proud Rebels and the fifteenth of Aprill his Lordship aduertised Master Secretary of this good seruice The thirtieth of Aprill the Earle of Ormond sent to the Lord Deputie from the Woods the conditions Ony Mac Rory demaunded vnder his owne hand for his liberty which till then he could not get because Ony staied for Tyrones and his confederate aduice adding a postscript of his Lordships owne hand that the letter was brought to him ready written neither was he allowed any man of his owne to write for him The insolent demaunds were these First that her Maiesties forces should bee remoued from Leax and the Garrisons deliuered to Oney Mac Roryes hands Secondly that pledges should be deliuered him for caution that no garisons shuld euer be planted there which done Ony and his followers would submit themselues Thirdly if pledges were not giuen then the Garrisons also in Ophaly should be remoued and euery man left to shift for himselfe The postscript required that vpon such pledges deliuered a generall protection for sixe weeks should be sent to Onye Mac Rorye and all his friends in Lemster whereupon answere should be returned who desired the benefit thereof but during the said time of the protection no forces of her Maiesties should bee sent against their confederates in Vlster and the North. The 5 of May the L. Deputie drew into the North parts to make Tyrone look towards him so to giue better facility to our men to settle themselues in garrison at Loughfoyle But before his departure from Dublin for the better gouerning defending the Pale his Lr. did by cōmission leaue Sir H. Poore to commaund in all martiall affaires and some of the Counsell to gouerne Ciuill matters during his absence And staying some few daies at Tredagh for the Companies which had victualed Phillipston and for the Garrisons of Kels and Ardee as also for victuals he marched to Dundalke whence taking that Garrison also with him he passed the pace of the Moyry on Whitsunday morning and so came to the Newry where hee vnderstood that according to his opinion Tyrone turning his forces from Loughsoyle was come in great haste to Dungannon had razed the old Fort of Blackwater burned Armagh and had drawne his men into the strong fastnes of Loughlurken where with great industrie the rebels had made trenches and fortified the place some three miles in length His Lordship to the former end aduancing towards him on the 16 of May drew out of the Newrie and incamped in the way towards Armagh with 1500 foote and some 200 horse And there hauing notice that the rebels inquired after the time when the Earle of Southampton and Sir Oliuer Lambert Sergeant Maior were to come to the Army and with all hearing that the said Earle and Sergeant Maior were that day arriued at Dundalke His Lordship earely in the morning on the 17 of May sent Captaine Edward Blany with 500 foot and 50 horse to secure their passage through the pace of the Moyrye who marched from the Campe and so through the Moyrye to the Faghard from which hill to Dundalke there was no danger There he made a stand and leauing his foot in two squadrons of 250 each himselfe with the horse passed to Dundalke and told the Earle of the forces the Lord Deputy had sent to conduct him assuring him further that his Lordship with the rest of the Army would meete him by two of the clock in the afternoone at the causey beyond the pace from which the whole pace hath the name of the Moyrye Hereupon the Earle hauing with him besides this conuoy the foot Companies of Sir Oliuer Lambert and Sir Henry Follyot and some 50 horse of voluntary Gentlemen marched to the Faghard where hee commanded one of the two squadrons aboue mentioned to march on and after that the carriages then his Lordship with the horse followed after whom the second squadron marched and last of all the two foot Companies of Sir Oliuer Lambert and Sir Henry Follyot Captaine Blany commanding the vanguard aduanced towards the Foure-milewater being a Forde all inuironed with Woods in the middest of this dangerous pace called the Moyrye And comming within halfe a mile of the same they discouered the rebels on both sides in the Wood whereupon the Earle directed the Vanguard to passe ouer the water and to make good the rising of the hill beyond it When these came within a Musket shot they perceiued two hundred foote of the enemie lodged beyond the water in the most aduantagious places Then Captaine Blany diuided his men into three Maniples sending 60 on the right hand vnder Captaine Henrie Atherton and as many on the left hand vnder Captaine Williams his Lieutenant and keeping the rest in the middest with himselfe And so by the Sergeant Maiors direrections they gaue the charge In the meane time the Lord Deputy being on the hill beyond the pace had sent his Vanguard consisting of two Regements the one vnder Sir Charles Percy and the other vnder Sir Richard Moryson two Colonels of the Army to aduance towards the pace And at this instant when Captaine Blany gaue on vpon the Rebels the said Lord Deputies vanguard appeared on the left side within two musket shot After some vollyes on either side the Rebels on the right hand and those right before Captaine Blany quitted those places and retired through the woods to the Earle of Southamptons Reare so as Captain Blany passing the water made a stand there as he
imparted his designes in the present seruice and to the same effect sent a packet by him to Sir Henrie Dockwra Gouernour of Loughfoyle and to them both as also to Sir Richard Moryson being to bee left Gouernour of Lecayle his Lordship gaue Proclamations to be published for establishing the aboue mentioned new coine All this time Arthur Mac Gennis the chiefe of his name Edmond Boy Mac Gennis his Vncle made meanes to be receiued to her Maiesties mercy but could not obtaine the fauour without first doing some seruice This day his Lordship and the Counsell following the Army gaue thirty pound by concordatum to Phelimy Ener Mac Gennis for some special seruices and Balinthor a strong Castle was taken by our men with diuers cowes and other goods sixe of the Ward being killed and the rest swimming awny His Lordship hauing placed Sir Richard Moryson with fiue hundred foote and fifty horse vnder his command to gouerne Lecayle which had their residency at Downe did march backe on the nineteenth day eleuen mile to fiue mile Church neere the Newry passing one pace exceeding strong by nature and plashed with trees which lay at the end of the Plaines of Lecaile and entrance into the woody Mountaines And before the entry of this pace Sir Arthur Chichester hauing receiued two hundred Foote to strengthen his Garrison returned backe to Knockfergue The twentieth day his Lordship marched with his forces three miles to Carickbane lying North ward of the Newrie This day Sir Henrie Dauers lying at Mount Norryes aduertised his Lordship that Tyrone lying in a fastnes and his men neuer venturing vpon the Plaine the souldiers left vnder his command there could not in all this time get any occasion to fight with him whereof they shewed great desire onely the horse often shewing themselues vpon the hilles had kept him beyond Armagh where he with his Creaghts lay feeding some thousands of Cowes Whereupon because his Lordship desired to preserue the grasse neere Armagh for his horse troopes as also to make store of hay there for the Winter following He sent Sir William Godolphin with his Lord ps troope of horse vnder his command to second the forces at Mount Norreys in attempting some seruice vpon Tyrone meaning to draw presently his whole forces thither But in the meane time Sir Francis Staffords Lieutenant of his horse sent by Sir Henrie Dauers to spy the rebels proceedings had passed to the view of Armagh and found that Tyrone had sent backe all his cowes vpon the hearing of his Lordships returne out of Lecayle For which cause and vpon notice that Tyrone had taken a dayes victuals for his men as if he meant to attempt something his Lordship recalled Sir William ' Godolphin with his troope The one and twentieth day his Lordship lay still in regard that for difficultie of getting Garrous that is carriage Iades or by some negligence victuals were not according to his former directions put into Mount Norreys to which place hee purposed to draw with his forces This day three daies bread came to his Lordships forces which in stead of other victuals liued vpon becues And his Lordship writ to Sir Henrie Dauers that according to his daily vse of late daies hee should the next morning earely draw the forces of Mount Norreys towards Armagh and should on the sudden possesse the Abbey there and the Towne whether his Lordship would also draw the Army presently for his second The two and twentieth day his Lordship hauing by extraordinary pay aboue the Queenes price gotten garrons and carrying victuals with him for Mount Norryes and for the Garrison he intended to plant at Armagh marched sixe miles neere to Mount Norryes where Sir Henrie Dauers with that Garrison met him hauing not been able for some difficulties to execute his Lordships former directions From thence his Lordship taking with him the said Garrison marched forward seuen miles and that night incamped a little beyond Armagh where some few rebels shewed themselues braggingly but attempted nothing His Lordship before his returne from Lecayle was purposed to leaue such forces at Mount Norryes as might plant the Garrison at Armagh when they found opportunity but lest they should haue been hindred by a greater force his Lordship rather then to returne towards the Pale for the attending there of the generall Hoasting where his Army should haue spent the same victuals it now did was resolued himselfe in person to plant it imagining that Tyrone not looking for him till the generall hoasting would not haue his whole forces with him nor by that reason and an opinion and feare that his Lordship intended to march further into Tyrone would haue any minde to follow his Lordship or hinder his retreate when hee should haue weakened his forces by that Plantation Therefore the three and twentieth day his Lordship making a shew to draw from his campe beyond Armagh towards Blackewater caused his forces to make a stand for his retreat and so himselfe with his followers and seruants rode more then a mile forward to view the way to Blackewater Fort and the place of the famous Blackewater defeat vnder the Marshall Bagnols conduct and hauing passed a pace without one shot made at his troope he returned to his forces and marching backe he left a garrison of seuen hundred fifty foote and one hundred horse at the Abbey of Armagh vnder the command of Sir Henry Dauers and that night marched with the rest neere to Moūt Norreys where he encamped hauing in this march from Armagh viewed the Foard where Generall Norries formerly was hurt making a stand with his horse to secure his foot distressed by Tyrones charge The foure and twenty his Lotdship leauing at Mount Norries the foot and horse of that garrison marched himselfe with 1250 foot and 150 horse sixe miles to 〈◊〉 being two miles short of the Newry This was a hill naturally and artificially ofold sortified where in regard of the weakenes of his forces he encamped purposing there to attend and solicite the hastning to send to him from the Pale all the meanes hee expected to furnish him for his intended iourny to build the demolished Fort of Blackwater Here his Lordships Army was mustered and was by Pole Captaines and Officers 87. Targets 112. Pykes 291. Muskets 125. Calliuers 635. In all 1250. Whereof besides Captaines and Officers English 593. Irish the rest Wanting Swords 191. The six and twenty day his Lordship sent victuals to the garrisons at Mount Norreis and at Armagh The twenty nine day his Lordship receiued aducrtisement that Sir H. Dauers drawing out the garrison of Armagh into the fastnes where Brian mac Art lay with his Cattle had killed diuers of his men taken many horses from him and spoiled much of his baggage besides three hundred Cowes which he had taken from Mac Gennis And the same day his Lordship receiued the examinations of certain Waterford Marriners who testified that being at the Groyne they were pressed
the iust reward of his foule demerits Notwithstanding we will not mislike to heare from you againe what you haue further discouered and guide our further resolution according to occasions Hereupon we haue thought good to returne this gentleman Sir Oliuer S. Iohns to you with thus much of our mind vpon your late letters and with such other matters as from our Counsell he may haue in charge to impart vnto you being one of whose good discretion and affection to our seruice we are very well perswaded to the end that vpon his arriuall by which time much will be seene of the euent of your late happy successe you may enter into some solid consideration of the forme of gouernement hereafter to be held of the proportions of our army to be continued and of all things that may be likely to settle that State in safety from forraigne attempts and in a better obedience to vs then heretofore When you haue debated and resolued what seemeth good to you there vppon all such points we can be then contented that you send backe this gentleman hether againe instructed therewith And because it will be also needfull for the furtherance of our resolutions here to haue good vnderstanding of the ciuill parts of that gouernement as well as of the martiall and that sute hath beene made vnto vs for Sir Robert Gardener our chiefe Iustice there to be licensed to come hither we shall like well that you send them both to the end that vpon their report of your conceipts there we may enter into more particular consideration of all things incident which vpon their arriuall wee shall be better able to doe Giuen vnder our Signet at our Pallace of West minster the eight day of February 1601. in the foure and fortieth yeere of our raigne The same day Sir Oliuer S. Iohns brought from the Lords in England this following letter to the Lord Deputy AFter our hearty commendations to your good Lordship we haue had in most of our late dispatches so little cause to fill our papers with any thing but with commendations of your Lordships wise proceedings and congratulations for her Maiesties happy successe vnder you as at this time if any other we intended not to mixe this acknowledgement of our extraordinary contentment for your late victory against the Spaniards with any other particular directions especially seeing the change you haue made in that Countrey by freeing the same from forraigne power howsoeuer infested still with an intestine rebellion must in all mens knowledge that are acquainted with the affaires of State haue brought so many changes as we can hardly tell what aduice or direction to offer of new vntill we may receiue from thence some further light of the present State of that Kingdome from you whose owne eye and iudgement is neerest and ablest to performe the same In which consideration seeing it hath pleased her Maiesty by her owne letters not onely to giue you notice of her royall and gracious acceptation of your so noble endeuours but to direct your Lordship also to send ouer hether Sir Robert Gardener and this gentleman Sir Oliuer S. Iohns with relation of all particulars fit for her knowledge we will in expectation hereof forbeare to enlarge our letter any further then with our best wishes to your Lordship of all perfect health and happinesse as those that will euer be found c. The same eight day Don Iean and the remaine of the Spaniards at Kinsale were all embarked ready to be gone The next morning the Lord Deputy left Corke and taking his iourney towards Dublyn arriued that night at Yoghall And because the stormy weather and contrary winds kept the Spaniards still in the Port at Kinsale his Lordship was forced to stay in that Towne some few daies from whence he wrote to Master Secretary into England vpon the twelfth of March aduertising him thereof And further giuing him notice that the other Spaniards which were at Beere-Hauen Castle-Hauen and Baltimore now were gone for Spaine That Don Iean had sent to Corke the pledges promised in the eight article of the agreement That fiue English Companies were lately arriued at Waterford And lastly praying to be excused to the rest of the Lords of her Maiesties Counsell that hee forbare to write vnto them till he came to Waterford where within few daies he hoped to meete the Earle of Ormond and some other of the Counsell and vpon conference with them to bee better able to satisfie their Lordships in some things concerning the present State of this Kingdome according to her Maiesties pleasure lately signified to him by her letters The pledges aboue mentioned were to lie for the safe returne of our ships wherein the Spaniards were embarked These pledges were principall Commanders and among them was one Captaine Moryson of whose bold seruice mention is made in the sally vpon the second of December This gentleman was inuited by the Lord Deputy to accompany him to Dublin the rest of his fellowes still remaining at Corke whether hee was to returne vnto them and they together to be shipped for Spaine vpon the safe returne of our ships In which iourney to Dublyn and during this Gentlemans aboad there I had familiar conference with him for names sake and vnderstood from him that his Family in Spaine was discended of an English Gentleman who followed the Emperour Charles the fifth in his warres and after by his bounty was seated in Spaine where at this day the chiefe of his name had good reuenues The Lord Deputy being come to Waterford did write together with the rest of the Counsell vpon the eighteenth of March this following letter to the Lords in England IT may please your Lordships The eighth hereof wee receiued by Sir Oliuer S. Iohns at Corke the dispatch which it pleased your Lordships to make by him and may not omit with all humble thankefulnesse to acknowledge the great comfort and contentment we haue taken in that it appeareth both thereby and by the relation of Sir Oliuer that her Maiesty and your Lordships haue most graciously and fauourably accepted and allowed our poore endeauours We are most carefull as you haue directed to send Sir Robert Gardener and him vnto your Lordships so soone as I the Deputy can get to Dublyn where Sir Robert Gardener now is and shall haue considered and debated with the Counsell there the businesse wherein your Lordships looke to be thorowly informed In the meane space because that will aske some time wee haue thought fit to acquaint your Lordships how things stand here since our last dispatch The Spaniards for certaine are all gone from Beere-Hauen Castle-Hauen Baltimore and that day that Sir Oliuer S. Iohns did arriue at Corke we heard that all the Spaniards at Kinsale and last of all Don Iean himselfe were shipped and in readinesse to set saile but since we heare that vntill Saturday the thirteenth hereof they could not get forth the Harbour and were
Damaske Prunes and some such comfortable things For wee pitched our Tents neere Villages or Cities from whence wee bought Egges Hennes and Ryce as wee needed them and sometimes had opportunity to supply that which wee had consumed of those prouisions which wee carried with vs. One Cammell will beare a passenger and good store of necessary prouisions with him but the pace thereof is very harde and shaketh the body of the Ryder the hinder parts of the Cammell being higher then the fore parts The Horses either goe a foote pace or gallop but are not taught the paces of ambling or trotting yet in regard that in these iournies the passenger goes slowly following loaded Cammels their Horses are easie enough to ride vpon The Mules naturally haue easie and slow paces and are most commodious especially for sicke men Besides these Carauans a passenger may light vpon other commodities of taking his iourney namely when Bashaes or other Turkish Gouernours are recalled from their Gouernements and returne with their families to Constantinople For these Magistrates are often changed in Turkey and so these commodities of passage are frequent Onely the passenger must bee commended to the protection of this Basha or Gouernour which vpon a small present or gift hee will easily vndertake and sweare by his head touching it as their manner is to sweare that hee will bring him safely to his iournyes ende And the passenger who together with this caution hath a Ianizare to protect and guide him shall neede to feare no danger so as hee receiue this Ianizare from an Ambassadour Consull or Christian Merchant who will aske account of the passengers safetie from the Ianizare at his returue They haue a third commodious way for iourneys in the company of a Troope of Horse vulgarly called Cassenda which often carries the Turkes Treasure vp to Constantinople And not onely the chiefe of this Troope vpon a small gift will protect any passenger but also this course of all others is most commodious for iournies because they ride a good pace being not troubled with loaded Camels and so come speedily vnto their iournies end The French seldome vse Coaches for iourneys but at Paris he that will hire a Coach about the City shall pay seuen or eight ryals by the day Likewise at Paris very Notaries and ordinary men hire horses and foot cloathes to ride about the Citie and they pay ten soulz for the horse and fiue for the foot-cloath by the day But for iournies the French haue three sorts of horses The first is of post-horses let for a stage of some three miles shorter or longer for which a French man shall pay fifteene perhaps a stranger twenty soulz and as much for a guide besides some fiue soulz of free-gift The second sort are called Cheuaux derelais that is horses to be left at a place And for the hiring of these for a like distance of miles a passenger payes some tenne soulz and hee needes no guide to bring backe the horse because he is to leaue him in a place appointed at the end of the stage But hee may not ride these a false gallop as they vse to ride post-horses for if he that receiues the horse can find either by the note deliuered him or by the swetting of the horse that hee hath ridden an extraordinary pace hee shall pay ten soulz the ordinarie penaltie for that wrong The third sort are called Cheuaux de louage that is hired horses and these a passenger may hire to what place hee will for some fifteene or twentie soulz by the day for so many dayes till the horse may bee sent backe and at the iournies end hee deliuers the horse with a note to some friend of the owner and by the way hee payes for his meate some fiue soulz at noone and ten at night I will adde one example of my owne experience From Roane to Diepe are twelue or fourteene miles to bee ridden in some foure howers but the horses being weake passengers vse to bate at a Village called Totes in the halfe way and howsoeuer before the ciuill warre a horse of hire for this short iourney was let for ten soulz yet at the time when I passed that way they demaunded and tooke thirtie soulz reckoning three dayes for the iourney and the sending backe of the horse Hee that hired this horse from Roane to Diepe and backe againe to Roane paid no more so he returned within three dayes But if his occasions were to make any stay at Diepe or to sayle from thence to England or to iourney from thence to any other place then he paid the foresaid thirty soulz and left the horse with an host still paying for his meate some eight or ten soulz by the day till he could be sent backe Yet passengers are so frequent there as the host doth not onely soone free the passenger of this charge for the horses meate but easily gaineth himselfe some ten or more soulz from him that vndertakes to carry the horse backe to Roane In generall the Traueller must be content with hard saddles and sometimes with a rope for a bridle who hath them not of his owne The French in their Innes vse to eate at an ordinarie table together for the most part In Totes the foresaid Village of Normandy before the great ciuill war assoone as a Traueller lighted from his horse they brought him water to wash and presently set bread and wine before him for without some refection the French haue not patience to stay for supper Then at supper commonly they gaue mutton a capon or pullet and a patridge or like meates with some banqueting dishes as apples cherries grapes in Summer and chesnuts rice dried grapes and fruits in winter Then they brought cleane sheets to be aired before the passenger at the fier Lastly in the morning they gaue him his breakfast as buttered tosts or some morsell of flesh and for all this and his horsemeat he was wont to pay no more then some 12 soulz As likewise for his dinner and horsemeat some 10 soulz But after the ciuil war when I passed these parts sometimes I paid 12 sometimes 15 soulz for each meale and for my horse-meate at noone fiue soulz at night tenne soulz but an horse-man paid nothing for his bed And if any desired to breake his fast hee paid for it apart but a small matter Neither at this time was there any ordinarie Table which they call Table de l'hoste the Hosts table for since Frenchmen vse not to leaue it where any such is I should otherwise haue seene it besides that they pay not apart for breakfasts where Ordinary Tables are held as wee did in these Innes The horseman hath his bed freely the footman paies some three soulz a night In some places as vpon the confines of France towards Flanders the Hosts onely giue Linnen bread and wine and when the guests will eate Cookes bring in trayes of diuers meats ready for dressing and
when the guests haue chosen their meate and agreed for the price they carry it backe and after it is prepared bring it in warme with sauces Is the passenger haue a horse of his owne which he may buy here to sell with good gaine in Italy he shall pay for his meate as I said fiue soulz at noone and some ten soulz at night The French haue also long Waggons couered with cloath such as our English Carriers vse wherein women and such as can indure the slownesse thereof vse to trauell from Citie to Citie My self after I had been robbed in Champaigne passed in such a Waggon from Challons to Paris and paied two gold Crownes of the Sunne for my passage Alwaies it is to be vnderstood that in most Kingdomes and places a stranger shall pay somewhat more then one that is borne in the Country In England towards the South and in the West parts and from London to Barnick vpon the confines of Scotland Post-horses are established at euery ten miles or thereabouts which they ride a false gallop after some ten miles an hower sometimes and that makes their hire the greater for with a Commission from the chiefe Post-master or chiefe Lords of the Councell giuen either vpon publike businesse or at least pretence thereof a passenger shal pay two pence half-penny each mile for his horse and as much for his guides horse but one guide will serue the whole company though many ride together who may easily bring backe the horses driuing them before him who know the way aswell as a begger knowes his dish They which haue no such Commission pay three pence for each mile This extraordinary charge of horses hire may well be recompenced with the speede of the iourney whereby greater expences in the Innes are auoided all the difficultie is to haue a body able to endure the toyle For these 〈◊〉 the passenger is at no charge to giue them meat onely at the ten miles end the boy that carries them backe will expect some few pence in gift Some Nobleman hath the Office of chiefe Post-Master being a place of such account as commonly he is one of the Kings Counsell And not onely hee but other Lords of the Councell according to the qualities of their offices vse to giue the foresaid Commission signed with their hands ioyntly or seuerally but their hands are lesse regarded then the Postmasters except they be fauourites and of the highest Offices or the businesse bee important In the Innes men of inferiour condition vse to eate at the Hosts Table and pay som six pence a meale but Gentlemen haue their chambers and eate alone except perhaps they haue consorts and friends in their company and of their acquaintance If they bee accompanied perhaps their reckoning may commonly come to some two shillings a man and one that eates alone in his owne chamber with one or two seruants attending him perhaps vpon reckoning may spend some fiue or six shillings for supper and breakfast But in the Northerne parts when I passed towards Scotland Gentlemen themselues did not vse to keepe their chambers but to eat at an ordinarie table together where they had great plentie of good meate and especially of choice kinds of fish and each man paid no more then sixe pence and sometimes but foure pence a meale One horses meate will come to twelue pence or eighteene pence the night for Hay Oates and Straw and in Summer time commonly they put the horses to grasse after the rate of three pence each horse though some who ride long iournies will either keepe them in the Stable at hard meate as they doe in Winter or else giue them a little Oates in the morning when they are brought vp from grasse English passengers taking any iourney seldome dine especially not in Winter and withall ride long iournies But there is no place in the World where passengers may so freely command as in the English Inns and are attended for themselues and their horses as well as if they were at home and perhaps better each seruant being ready at call in hope of a small reward in the morning Neither did I euer see Innes so well furnished with houshold stuffe Coaches are not to be hired any where but only at London and howsoeuer England is for the most part plaine or consisting of little pleasant hilles yet the waies farre from London are so durty as hired Coachmen doe not ordinarily take any long iournies but onely for one or two daies any way from London the wayes so farre being sandy and very faire and continually kept so by labour of hands And for a dayes iourney a Coach with two horses vsed to be let for some ten shillings the day or the way being short for some eight shillings so as the passengers paid for the horses meat or some fifteene shillings a day for three horses the Coach-man paying for his horses meate Sixtie or seuenty yeeres agoe Coaches were very rare in England but at this day pride is so farre increased at there be few Gentlemen of any account I meane elder Brothers who haue not their Coaches so as the streetes of London are almost stopped vp with them Yea they who onely respect comlinesse and profit and are thought free from pride yet haue Coaches because they find the keeping thereof more commodious and profirable then of horses since two or three Coach-porses will draw foure or fiue persons besides the commodity of carrying many necessaries in a Coach For the most part Englishmen especially in long iournies vse to ride vpon their owne horses But if any will hire a horse at London they vse to pay two shillings the first day and twelue or perhaps eighteene pence a day for as many dayes as they keepe him till the horse be brought home to the owner and the passenger must either bring him backe or pay for the sending of him and find him meate both going and comming In other parts of England a man may hire a horse for twelue pence the day finding him meate and bringing or sending him backe and if the iourney bee long he may hire him at a conuenient rate for a moneth or two Likewise Carriers let horses from Citie to Citie with caution that the passenger must lodge in their Inne that they may looke to the feeding of their horse and so they will for some fiue or sixe dayes iourney let him a horse and find the horse meate themselues form so me twenty shillings Lastly these Carryers haue long couered Waggons in which they carry passengers from City to City but this kind of iournying is so tedious by reason they must take waggon very earely and come very late to their Innes as none but women and people of inferiour condition or strangers as Flemmings with their wiues and seruants vse to trauell in this sort In Ireland since the end of the Ciuill warre some Lords and Knights haue brought in Coaches to Dublin but they are
will cost him sixe pence or in some places but foure pence yet this course is lesse honourable and not vsed by Gentlemen but if he will eate in his chamber he commands what meate he will according to his appetite and as much as he thinkes fit for him and his company yea the kitchin is open to him to command the meat to be dressed as he best likes and when he sits at Table the Host or Hostesse will accompany him or if they haue many Guests will at least visit him taking it for curtesie to be bid sit downe while he eates if he haue company especially he shall be offred musicke which he may freely take or refuse and if he be solitary the Musitians will giue him the good day with musicke in the morning It is the custome and no way disgracefull to set vp part of supper for his breakefast In the euening or in the morning after breakefast for the common sort vse not to dine but ride from breakefast to supper time yet comming early to the Inne for better resting of their Horses he shall haue a reckoning in writing and if it seeme vnreasonable the Host will satisfie him either for the due price or by abating part especially if the seruant deceiue him any way which one of experience will soone find Hauing formerly spoken of ordinary expences by the high way aswell in the particular iournall of the first Part as in a Chapter of this Part purposely treating thereof I will now onely adde that a Gentleman and his Man shall spend as much as if he were accompanied with another Gentleman and his Man and if Gentlemen will in such sort ioyne together to eate at one Table the expences will be much diminished Lastly a Man cannot more freely command at home in his owne House then hee may doe in his Inne and at parting if he giue some few pence to the Chamberlin Ostler they wish him a happy iourney England hath three publike Feasts of great expence and pompous solemnity namely the coronation of the Kings the Feast of S. George as well vpon his day yeerely as at all times when any Knight of the Order is installed and the third when Seriants at the Law are called The Lord Mayor of the City of London vpon the day when he is sworne enters his Office keeps a solemne Feast with publike shewes of great magnificence besides that hee and the Sheriffes of the Citie daily keepe well furnished Tables to entertaine any Gentleman or stranger that will come to them to the great honour of the City in this particular passing all other Cities of the World knowne to vs. For the point of drinking the English at a Feast will drinke two or three healths in remembrance of speciall friends or respected honourable persons and in our time some Gentlemen and Commanders from the warres of Netherland brought in the custome of the Germans large garaussing but this custome is in our time also in good measure left Likewise in some priuate Gentlemens houses and with some Captaines and Souldiers and with the vulgar sort of Citizens and Artisans large and intemperate drinking is vsed but in generall the greater and better part of the English hold all excesse blame worthy and drunkennesse a reprochfull vice Clownes and vulgar men onely vse large drinking of Beere or Ale how much soeuer it is esteemed excellent drinke euen among strangers but Gentlemen garrawse onely in Wine with which many mixe sugar which I neuer obserued in any other place or Kingdome to be vsed for that purpose And because the taste of the English is thus delighted with sweetenesse the Wines in Tauernes for I speake not of Merchants or Gentlemens Cellars are commonly mixed at the filling thereof to make them pleasant And the same delight in sweetnesse hath made the vse of Corands of Corinth so frequent in all places and with all persons in England as the very Greekes that sell them wonder what we doe with such great quantities thereof and know not how we should spend them except we vse them for dying or to feede Hogges CHAP. IIII. Of Scotland touching the Subiects contained in the first Chapter THE Longitude of Scotland extends fiue degrees from the Meridian of sixeteene degrees to that of one and twenty degrees and the Latitude extends foure degrees from the Paralel of fifty sixe degrees and a halfe to that of sixty degrees and a halfe In the Geographical description wherof I wil briefly follow the very words of Camden as neere as I can being an Authour without exception 1 The Gadeni of Scotland were of old next neighbours to the Ottadini of Northumberland in England and inhabited the Countrey now called Teyfidale wherein is nothing memorable but the Monastery of Mailors 2 In Merch so called as a bordering Countrey the Castle Hume is the old possession of the Lords of Hume neere which is Kelso the ancient dwelling of the Earles of Bothwell which were long by inheritance Admirals of Scotland and the Merch is mentioned in Histories for nothrng more then the valour of the said Earles 3 Laudania of old called Pictland shooteth out from Merch towards the Scottish narrow Sea called the Frith and is full of mountaines but hath few woods In this Country are these little Cities or Townes Dunbarre Haddington and Musleborrow places wherein hath beene seene the warlike vertue of the English and Scots Somewhat lower and neere to the foresaid Frith lies Edenborough which Ptolomy cals Castrum Alatum a rich City of old compassed with wals and the seate of the Kings whole Palace is at the East end in a vally ouer which hangs a mountaine called the Chaire of Arthur our Britan Prince and from this Pallace is an easie ascent to the West end where the length of the City ends in a steepe rocke vpon which is built a most strong Castle called the Maidens Castle the same which Ptolomy cals Alatum This City was long vnder the English Saxons and about the yeere 960 England being inuaded by the Danes it became subiect to the Scots Leth is a mile distant and is a most commodious Hauen vpon the narrow Scottish Gulfe vulgarly called Edenborough Frith 4 Towards the West lay the Selgouae vpon another Gulfe running betweene England and Scotland vulgarly called Solway Frith of the said Selgouae inhabiting the Countries called Eskedale Annandale and Nidtsdale in which is the little Towne Dunfrise 5 Next lay the Nouantes in the Valleys where Gallway and Whitterne which Citie Ptolomy calles Leucopibia are seated 6 In the little Countrie Caricta hauing good pastures is the little Towne Gergeny which Ptolomy calles Rerigonium 7 More inward lay the Damnij where now Sterling Merteth and Claidsdale are seated Here the Riuer Cluyde runnes by Hamelton the seate of the Hameltons Family of English race of which the third Earle of Arran liueth in our dayes and after by Glascow the seat of an Archbishop and a little Vniuersitie Here