and at convenient distance one from another which you may contrive to do in drawing out the first two years such as be of stature to be Transplanted from among them Dress these once or twice a year by cutting off the biggest side-branches to hasten their growing tall but leaving some small side-branches for this causeth them to thrive in bigness the more which they ought to do proportionable to their height or else they will be too weak to bear a top Observe this also in graffed Trees in your Nurseries or elsewhere CHAP. IV. Of Inoculating Way of Inoculating SECT 1. About a fortnight before or after Midsummer which is the best time though it may be done from the beginning of May till August when you have pitch't upon such stocks as are sit to be inoculated choose out a strong and well liking branch or shoot of that years growth upon a Tree that bears such kind of fruit as you would by this operation produce and about the middle or lower end of it for the top will be too tender six upon a leaf that hath a fresh and fair bud growing out betwixt it and the bark and about half an inch below and above the bud cut off the branch and so you will have a piece of it about an inch long remaining with a bud and a leaf on this you must cleave just through the midst so as the bud may be directly in the middle of the one half and then snip off a part of the leaf and holding it by the remainder clap it to a smooth place on the stock and with a Pen-knife score out on each side of it so much of the stock as it covers or rather a little broader because when the bark on which the bud is is taken off from its own wood and applyed to the stock it will cover a wider space of the stock than it did before after you have thus marked your Stock withdraw the Cyen again and cut the bark through where you had marked it then cut the bark cross and straight from the uppermost end of one score to the upper end of the other and cut the bark again cross and straight from one score to the other but not so low as the lower ends of the scores by a quarter of an inch then take the oblong square piece of bark that is cut on every side quite off the Stock and raise up that part of the bark that remains betwixt the side scores at the bottom of the work from the wood till you come to the lower ends of the side scores Take then a Goose-quill cut in the fashion of an Apple-scoop or Scraper and having with your Nail a little loosned the upper part of that Bark that is on the Cyen thrust the quill betwixt the bark and the wood holding it close to the wood that it may separate them and take off with the bark a little wood or root of the bud over against it If you see a hole on the inside over against the bud when you have taken the bark off cast it away that little labour is lost and try another till you find it otherwise Then put in the lower end of that Bark or Cyen betwixt the bark that was raised on the Stock and the Wood and so bind it on the stock gently with Woolen-yarn or narrow shreds of Linnen-cloth or gentle Stuff or with Basses or Bast of which the Russia Mats are made but so that the Cyen may lye close to the wood of the stock that was made bare and have a special care that you hurt not the bud Several other ways Sect. 2. There are some other ways of inoculating used differing only in the manner of the cut both in the bark of the Stock and of the Cyen And first Some proceeding in all other things as is before directed cut the Bark out of the whole length of the side scores and apply the Cyen to the disbarked place Secondly Others cut one slit only down the bark of the Stock and another cross the top of it like a great T when this is done they prepare the Cyen or bark as before directed only cutting it sharp pointed at the lower end before they take the bud off its wood then raise the bark of the Stock up on each side the slit and put in the Cyen beginning at the top and sliding it downward gently and so bind the Bark gently upon it This is the common way used among Gardeners Thirdly You may make the cross cut in the middle of the downright score on the Stock and lifting up the four corners of the bark and making the Cyen sharp at both ends put it under the bark of the Stock at both ends and then bind it But in doing this there is danger of hurting the Cyen Fourthly Mr Rea commends the making the cross cut at the lower end of the down right cut and having opened the sides put in the Cyen upward being made sharp at the upper end only Thus much to satisfie the curiosity of such as have a mind to make tryal of every way but the first that I have described at large I take to be the best CHAP. V. Observations touching Inoculating Necessary Rules SECT 1. Lest one bud fail or any mischance break it put two in every Stock but not directly under one another on the same side of the stock The branch or shoot you cut one Cyen off may yield you several About a month after the inoculating or sooner if you perceive the bark swell where the binding is cut off the binding If it grow it will fix to the stock keep its colour and that part of the leaf and stalk that was left will drop off and the bud appear fair then sometime before the next spring cut off the top of the stock a hands breadth above the place it was inoculated at and all the side-branches that grow any where upon the Stock and at Spring the bud will put forth and if any other sprouts or buds appear on the stock cut them off A Denotes the cutting of the Bark for inoculating the first way directed B The upper part of the bark taken off and the lower part raised C The Bark prepared to put in the Stock D The first inoculation finished E The second way described by taking the Bark off the Stock in an oblong square F The same finished G The cutting the Bark of the Stock according to the Gardiners ordinary way H The sides of the Bark opened to put in the bark or shield I The Bark of the Cyen prepared for that purpose K This way of inoculation finished L The cutting of the Bark of the Stock according to Mr. Rea 's best approbation M The opening the Bark on each side the slit N The Bark prepared to be put in O The same finished P The cut of the Cyen and the Stock for side-graffing Q The cut of the Bark of the Stock for
of the ground again not above one or two buds You may chance to have suckers of an old Vine which will be sure to grow Suckers Or you may take Cuttings of Vine branches of that years growth Cuttings and set them in good warm loose land and many will grow if it be in the place you intend they shall always stand in next year lay down a part of that which hath grown out to root also or else upon removal lay in the new growth all but a bud or two with that part which is already rooted If it have made but small growth the first year lay part of the second years growth in the ground it will more advantage them by helping them to good roots than the loss of a year or two's growth in the top will amount to Cure an old Vine If you have an old Vine that beareth not well lay down in February or March some of the strongest branches of the foregoing year that grow low in the mold under the old Tree without cutting them off leaving out of the ground a bud or two to grow and your wall will quickly be furnished with new and fresh branches so that by degrees you may cut off many of the old branches of the Vine for though one Vine may cover abundance of walling yet three or four roots in that compass will strengthen it the more to bear Of pruning Sect. 3. As Vines stand in more need of pruning than other Fruit-trees so great care is to be taken in the performing of it when you have set your Vine as you have been before directed so that not above two buds of it remain above ground you are to nail up such branches as grow forth up to the wall till it have overspread as much wall as you design for it suffering not above two branches to grow from the ground and snipping yearly the tops of the branches a considerable length as far as they are weak and tender and also all small poor ones close to the body unless the well liking branches be but few and then you may leave the lowest bud of some of them to grow forth next year and this you are to do towards the end of February or beginning of March yearly When your Vine comes to bear you are to use your knife about it three times in the year 1. Time In February or the beginning of March you are to prune off part of the foregoing years shoots where they are too thick close to the old wood As it enriches your Vine to keep it thin of branches so you must take care it be well stor'd with buds against the spring following for it bears Grapes only on the new shoots of every year and in cutting off these branches you must take care your wall continue furnished with such branches as may be spread upon the wall regularly and decently not thick in one place and thin in another nor crossing one another 2. The next time to take off superfluities from your Vine is about Midsummer when the Grapes are knit clip off then the end of the branches that have Grapes on them a little above the Grapes that they may have the more nourishment and keep them nail'd to the wall as also barren branches where the wall needs them 3. The last time of cutting is in August for then because leaves and branches may be so thick as to keep the heat of the Sun from the Grapes which is necessary to ripen them you may pluck off some of the leaves and cut off some of the branches to open way for the Sun to come to them There 's one thing to be observed in the pruning these peculiar to it Place That whereas others are cut at a bud the branches of these must be cut off near the midst betwixt two buds and that not later in the year than the beginning of March for afterward the sap or juice will run out and the Vine will be much weakned by bleeding Bleed You will by that time also see what the Frost of the Winter foregoing hath kill'd which must be taken all away If Frosts come before any Grapes are ripe Frosts defend them in the night time with Tilâ—s or Mats Sect. 4. Vineyard It 's scarce worth while to have a Vineyard here in England there having begn many and now so few affords a strong Argument to prove that attempts of that kind never turn to account The usage of the People in such cases being of no small authority It 's possible that persons that have very warm ground well situated with care and industry may some years have good Grapes without the benefit of a wall I have seen not far from Bristol in a year that was very favourable to them Grapes ripen well without such help Sect. 5. Fig-tree Fig-trees ought to be planted in a very warm place against a wall defended from the North and North-East wind every old Tree will yield plenty of suckers fit to raise new ones Sect. 6. Quince-tree You have seen the way of raising Quince-trees in the Chapter of Dwarfs I shall here only add that if you have a part of a Tree that groweth so low that you can bring it to the ground either by plashing or otherwise you may do it in the beginning of Winter and cover it all with Earth but the ends of the branches and let it continue so one year and then uncover it and every twig will have put forth roots in the Earth which being cut off and transplanted will make you a tree And this is the way of propagating of Fruit-trees by layers Layers and you may here take notice that all such Trees that may be propagated by Cuttings may be raised likewise by Layers and this way takes more sure than by Cuttings Quince-trees delight in a moist rich Land Soil near some gutter that carries away the soke or wash of a Dunghil or House is a place usually chosen for them and is such as they like very well in Sect. 7. Medlar-tree Medlars are raised by graffing on the Pear-tree Crab-tree White-thorn or Service-tree the last is the best and the White-thorn by much the worst You may get Plants of Services out of woods Service-tree where they grow wild from which you may raise Service-trees or stocks for Medlars or if you can get none such graff the Service on the Wickey-berry-tree or the White-thorn Sect. 8. Wallnut-trees Wallnut-trees are much Planted of late and are very proper for walks in grounds and a good fence to shelter Buildings and Orchards the fruit is useful and very profitable if you can spare any to sell or for Oil for Painters if the market should be glutted with them and the Timber so excellent for Tables Chairs and Stools stooking of Guns c. that it goes off well and takes a good price way of raising They are raised by Nuts
risings and lie even to the side of the Stock Cut then the top of the Cyen off close above a bud about four inches above the shoulder if it be for a standard Tree two buds above the clay being full enough but for Dwarf or Wall-trees you may let the Cyen be six inches long with several buds that they may shoot forth many branches and spread from the very Stock The Cyen or Graff thus prepared lay the cut part of the Cyen on the West or South-west side of the Stock and so measure and mark the breadth and length of it then cut away so much of the bark of the Stock as the cut part of the Cyen may fit drawing your Knife upward but as the stock is bigger and the bark thicker than that on the Cyen so the chip must be longer and broader or else the passage for the sap in the Stock and Cyen which is chiefly betwixt the bark and the wood will not meet together as in the work you will easily see which should be aimed at Then lay the cut part of the Cyen on the cut part of the Stock and bind it on with course Woollen-yarn Basses or the inward peeling of the Witch-tree if you bind with such a material as will not be loose or rotten by Midsummer about that time give it a cut cross-wise with a Knife to set the prisoners at liberty Have in readiness good Clay free from Stones mixt with long Hay and daub it about the Stock and Cyen a full inch above and below the head of the Stock work it up round the Cyen till it be sharp at the top that the rain water may run down it and with a Knife or little trowel dipt in water smooth over the clay in doing this be sure not to displace the Cyen Thus you may Graft Pears Plums Cherries and Apples if it be before the bark of the Stock will part from the wood of them for when it will the next way following is better for Apples In the Bark the best ways Sect. 2. The second way called Graffing in the Bark is much like this and I preferr it from experience much before the fore-mentioned or any other way but it can only be used for Apples because all Cyens of other Fruit will be grown past use before the bark of the Stocks will peel which is about the end of March or the beginning of April but this will be time enough for Apples if your Stocks be in any thing good liking which if they be not they are not fit to be Graffed any way Prepare then your Stock and Cyen exactly as you were directed in packing only instead of cutting the bark off the Stock slit it on the South-west side from the top almost as long as the sloped part of the Cyen and loosen the bark at the top of the slit with the point of your Knife Have in readiness a little Instrument made of Ivory or a Deer or Sheep-shank or Silver or hard smooth Wood at one end let it be made of the shape of the slope part of the Cyen but much less every way thrust it down betwixt the Bark and the Wood of the Stock where it was slit to make room for the Cyen take it out and put in the Cyen but first cut a little of the bark at the thin end of the slope of the Cyen that it double not in going down yet leave it with a sharpe edge and because when your Cyen is put in it will bear the bark hollow from the stock nick or slit the bark on each side the Cyen so that it may fall close to the Stock and to the edges of the Cyen Bind and Clay it as you have already heard These two are the best ways of Graffing for these Reasons 1. Because Stocks may be Graffed thus some years before they can be ready to graff in the cleft and though Whip-graffing may be used sooner than either of these yet there are other great inconveniences attending it as you will see hereafter 2. The Stocks are this way less harmed than where a cleft is used because the cleft lets wet into them and makes them not so fit for Graffing again if any fail to grow the first time as these continue to be though they should once miscarry or come to any mischance 3. The Cyen will much sooner and better cover the Stock and so make a more healthful sound and swifter growing Tree 4. This is much more speedy easie and sure to succeed Sect. 3. Whip-Graffing There is another way called Whip-graffing and here your Stock and Cyen ought to be exactly of the same bigness as the manner of performing it plainly sheweth which is as followeth Slope off the Cyen a full inch or longer and do the like to the Stock and tye the one upon the other You may if you will make a shoulder on the Cyen and cut the top of the Stock to suit with it and then bind them together and clay about the place This way is successful enough so that special care be taken that both Stock and Cyen suit exactly where they are joyned together which is somewhat troublesome to do and so it is to find Cyens and Stocks of an equal bigness besides the head will be apt to overgrow the Stocks all that can be done to prevent it is to Graff these very low or if high to give the Stock more liberty to thicken by slitting the Bark of it with a Knife In this way of Graffing there is another little knack may be added to very good purpose and that is when the Stock and Cyen are prepared as you heard before to be joyned together to make a slit with a Knife in the bare place of the Stock downward beginning towards the top of the slope and so slitting it a little way and doing the like in the sloped face of the Cyen but beginning at the same distance from the lower end of it as you did before from the top of the Stock and so carrying it upwards and then join them by thrusting the one slice into the other till the bare place of the Cyen cover the bare place of the Stock This may be done likewise in Graffing by packing and in both conduceth much to strengthen the work and is called by some Lipping or Tonguing Sidâ— Graffing Sect. 4. I am now going to describe another way that I never read of neither ever knew more than one that used it and he a skilful Gardner and us'd it very much Knowing no name for it I have given it the name of Side-graffing It 's done by preparing the Cyen as in Whip-graffing then without cutting off the head of the Stock but making it thin of side Branches from a smooth place of it on the West-side take off as much bark as the Cyen will cover as in Packing and slit both Cyen and Stock according to the directions given in the end of
a years time and more choose such suckers as grow at greatest distance from the old Tree Ordering the heads of Dwarfs Sect. 9. In Graffing or Inoculating Stocks for Dwarf-trees observe to do it as low as you well can with two Cyens and those longer than in Graffing for large Standards that they may spread from the ground And after they are grown two or three years in the places they are to stand in to make them spread and to keep the boughs outward you may tye an old hoop of a Barrel or some such thing in the midst of the branches to bear them a good distance one from another but if one branch be much stronger or more inclined to grow upright than the rest then you may drive a Stake into the ground and tye the sturdy one down to it If you cut the bark cross-wise in several places on the inside of the branches when they are placed as you would have them it will be a means to make them more willing to continue in that order of their own accord after some years growth If any one branch shoot out much further than the other cut off its top to keep it even with the rest and yearly cut much off especially new shoots that grow directly upward after they are grown to that height you design them to be of which may be about a yard and a half Trees of Cuttings Sect. 10. Having directed how to raise Kentish-Codlings Gennet-moils Quinces or any that grow of cuttings for Stocks I need give no other rules for raising Trees or Hedges of the same kind of Fruit only you need not cut them so short as you do for stocks I have seen Codlings Graffed on Crab-stocks and set in a Garden but I think it will encrease their growth because Crab-stocks have great roots and will yield them more plenty of nourishment than roots of their own putting forth when they are raised by Cuttings Others Graff Gennet-moils on Crab-stocks and they thrive well and bear a larger and some think a better Fruit than those Trees of that kind raised by Cuttings I have Graffed several of them in rough and woody grounds which have grown with very strong shoots and covered the Stocks very soon CHAP. X. Of Planting an Orchard SECT 1. So far as it lyeth in a Mans power to choose a plot of ground for his Orchard Choice of ground he ought to do it with respect to these advantages It should lye conveniently near him declining and lying open towards the South South-East or South-West and defended from the North North-East and North-West winds by buildings woods or higher grounds the land should rather incline to dryness than moisture without Springs the Soil deep and a fat Earth not a stiff cold Clay or binding Gravel nor a light sandy or eskie hollow Earth Yet with good Husbandry if it run not into the extreams of any of these Fruit-trees may prosper reasonable well in it A. The erder of Trees in the Orchard B. The Garden wall C. The Chissell D. The Ladder E. The Instrument to graff in the bark with To qualifie ground Sect. 2. If the Land you intend for it be a Turf or green-sward you will do well to Plow it two years before you set your Trees in it to make it mellow and loose that the Trees may the better take root and you may then lay on Manure which by Plowing will be well mixt with the natural Soil and use such Manure as will best suit to amend it according to what you have heard before in the 8th Chap. Sect. the 6th If your Land lye very flat that wet is apt to stand upon it or be a shallow soil you may something help it in Plowing also by gathering the Land always up in and near the place where you intend the rows of Trees shall afterwards stand which in two years time will something raise it and thicken the Soil and the Reanes or Furrows so made will help to carry off the Water But if it be a springey Land you must Trench it at the head of the Spring and that deeper than the Channel of the Spring runs in the Earth which you may leave open and yearly cleanse or fill it with Oler boughs and cover them with the Turf and Earth that came forth much higher than the other Land for the Wood and loose Earth will sink very much by degrees If it be not springey but only lye so low and flat that in the Winter Rain or Land-floods will lye upon it and that it hath been lately Plowed or that you will not lose two years time by Plowing it before you set your Trees or if it be a shallow or ebb soil you had best set the Trees by Tumping according to the directions in Field-planting which you will find hereafter spoken fully to in its proper place Of uneven ground Sect. 3. If there be any unevenness in the Land some direct to level it by carrying the banks into low places but this will not only be very chargeable but hurtful by making the high places too barren and the low ground too rich But that your Trees may grow somewhat level in their tops and not one over-shade another and also appear comely you may forecast to set such Trees as grow pendant or are not apt to grow tall Trees on the highest ground and such as are aspiring in the lower places Time and manner of planting it Sect. 4. The best time to Transplant into Orchards is from the end of September to near the end of November the sooner the better If the leaves are not all fallen when you remove your Trees pick them off If your Trees are not very weak bodied Prune them up leaving three or four of the principal branches on the top that grow outward which should be lopp'd off almost a years growth but if they be weak lest the wind should injure them by tossing them you may top them lower doing it at a bud or small twig and in big Trees cut the top almost all off and whensoever you transplant young Trees cut off the end of all big roots Of removal of Trees Sect. 5. At three years end after Graffing in the Nursery Trees may be fit to be removed into an Orchard especially if you Plow or which is safer dig the Orchard land and set Beans and other Kitchen-Garden-stuff in it for some years but if it be such a piece of Land that you Graze then you must be sure their heads be grown out of the reach of Cattle before you set them there and you must Fence them one of the ways mentioned hereafter in the Chapter of Field-planting Of distance Sect. 6. The distance of Trees in Orchards ought not to be less than eight yards neither need it be more than thirteen or fourteen the richer the Land is the greater distance you ought to set the Trees at from one another to which
very rich as not having been impoverished by Tillage but improved sometimes by the oft scouring of the ditch and commonly with the dung of Cattle that for shelter shade or foder repair much thither 3. It 's not the least hindrance to plowing or grass for the hedg when it 's grown up usually beareth out as far as the tree is set in the field 4. And this is much better than planting in the hedg-row as many do for in the hedg when the tree is grown to have a large top it 's apter to weaken the hedg under it but these being set a little distance from the hedg and growing as they will with the greatest part of their heads from it will not damage it 5. The Fruit will be gathered with much more ease than of those that are planted in the hedges 6. They will not be choakt or hurt by the hedg when it 's grown up but be good handsome fair Trees You may set these at eight yards distance Distance or nearer being but one single row and so if but half a field as usually it falls out have the ditch on the outside you may set a considerable number and find advantage without damage and with inconsiderable charge especially if the ditch stand on the North-side if you can therefore choose such hedges Where not good This is not to be practis'd near hedges that are full of great wood or trees but if there be but few trees it 's but leaving a vacancy near such trees and setting your fruit-trees against such places where there grow none in the hedge IV. In Hedges Sect. 6. Another way of planting in Fields is this If you would Plant without any charge of fencing you may do it in your Hedges these Trees must be well grown and strong that the hedg choak them not while they are young And when you plash or cut down a quick hedg observe no certain distance but as it happens where you find it most free from quick set a tree and enclose the body in the hedg but bind not the Etherings too close about it lest they gall it and as it groweth observe what Thorns annoy it and cut them off V. By Cuttings Sect. 7. If you have a mind to set any Cuttings of Gennet-moils or other Apple-trees that grow of Cuttings they will prosper very well in or rather near a hedg because generally there the mold is loose and mellow for them to put forth Roots in and somewhat enricht by the frequent cleansing of the ditch If you plant them near the hedg you must a little fence them on the one side as by the third foregoing direction but the tumps you raise to set the thorns in must not be above a foot high for the cuttings will shoot out their roots almost to the top of the Earth about them and a high mound falling down by degrees some of the best roots may be left bare or very little Earth upon them Of preparing them The way of preparing plants for this purpose is by circumposition c. as is directed in the Chapter of Dwarf-trees Choice and ordering Make choice of Cuttings or stems as big as a mans wrist if you can towards the lower end before you set them prune them out of the reach of Cattle and leave but little top on them when you set them neither let them be very long If the tops be out of the reach of Cattle it 's enough VI. By long Crab stocks Sect. 8. There be some that get long Crab-tree-stocks out of woods or else dress some up in their Nurseries to grow tall and set them in their fields or hedges and at three years standing graff them which may do well Advantage and is the better approved of because there needs no removal after they are graffed but some inconvenience there is in this way Disadvantage The long stocks out of woods being commonly very old their bark thick their roots big they thrive but indifferently and those raised in Nurseries will seldom be taper grown or strong enough to bear a large top well after they are graffed so high as they ought being set in fields You will also be longer in raising stocks to that height and any considerable strength as is necessary for this purpose than in raising trees if your stocks be graffed young in your Nursery because they thrive more after graffing than before And in both cases if you graff them high the stocks will be continually putting forth sprouts of their own kind below the place they were graffed at which will require frequent cutting off If you graff them not very high you will find it difficult to defend them from the nipping of Cattle and from the Cyens being broke out of the stock by some casualties or other to which they are more exposed in fields that lye common to Cattle than Nurseries that are inclosed VII By Graâ—â—â—â— old Crab-trees Sect. 9. The last way I shall speak of is that which is most used in the planting Countries and that is by graffing such Crab-trees as grow in the hedges or grounds and this is the speediest way to have fruit because the big Trees have bodies already and in four or five years time well ordered will have good tops to bear and if you graff small stocks in your ground that have grown of their own accord there and fence them they will speedily bring on graffs being so well rooted A mischief used herein I have seen many cut off the tops of old Crab-trees and Apple-trees and graff the body or trunk but the Cyens could never cover the heads of those stocks and by that time the top was a little grown up the body was ready to perish with rottenness Necessary directions The best way for big Crab-trees or if you would change the kind of any Fruit-trees is to graff them in the boughs where they are not bigger than a mans arm making use of none but those that grow handsome at convenient distance one from another cutting off the others smooth and even close to the body of the tree To do this that Winter that you cut or plash a hedg order the work-men to trim up but not to lop or top the Crab-trees unless it be the tops of the boughs half a yard or more above the place you intend to graff them at and then in March following saw off the heads at proper places and graff them Of graffing 〈◊〉 in the Cleft Many are for graffing these in the cleft because they think the Cyen hath better hold and will not be so subject to be broke out by the wind as those graffed in the bark but I have seen those in the cleft broke out by the wind neither could I ever find that the wood of the Cyen in the cleft did ever cement with the wood of the stock but only on the out-side as the others do And those