several Members and their Uses are represented viz. aaaa The Legs or Stiles bb The Cheeks or Sides cc The Puppets d The Screw d The Pike e The Rest. f The Handle of the Screw g The Tennants of the Puppets h The Wedge i The Treddle k The Cross-Treddle l The Pole m The String n The Horn. ¶ 1. Of the Legs or Stiles THE Legs or Stiles are commonly about two Foot and ten Inches high and are set perpendicularly upright having each of them a Tennant on its upperend of the thickness the two Ceeks are to stand assunder And on either side the Shoulder of these two Tennants is laid one of the Cheeks close to the sides of the Tennants and so pinned close to the Tennant as was taught Numb 5. § 17. But a steddier and more secure way is to have a strong Iron Screw made with a square Shank near the Head that when it enters into a square hole made fit to it in the hithermost Cheek it may not twist about but by the Turning about of an Iron Nut upon the fore-end of the Screw the Nut shall draw the two Cheeks close to the two sides of the Tennants or the upper ends of the Legs ¶ 2. Of the Cheeks AS I told you the Legs are to be set up directly perpendicular so the Cheeks are to be fastned directly Horizontally upon them And the Legs and Cheeks are to be fastned with Braces to the Floor and other parts of the Room the Lathe stands in according to the convenience of the Room for fastning that the whole Lathe may stand as steddy and solid as may be For if with Turning large Work the strength of the Tread should make the Lathe tremble you will not be able to make true and neat Work but the Tool will job into softer parts of the Stuff and fly off where a Knot or other harder parts of the Stuff comes to the Tool ¶ 3. Of the Puppets THe Puppets are square pieces of Wood of a Substance convenient to the light or heavy work they intend to Turn And Turnners will rather have their Puppets too strong than too weak because though the Puppets be very strong yet they can turn light work with them whereas if they be weak they cannot turn Heavy work with them For the weight of heavy unequal tempered Stuff running about will be apt both to shake the Puppets and loosen the small hole of the Wedge in the Tennant by either of which Inconveniencies the Work in the Lathe may tremble as aforesaid And though no size for the height of the Puppets can be well asserted because of the several Diameters of Work to be Turned yet Workmen generally covet to have their Puppets as short as they well can to bear their Work off the Cheeks of the Lathe because these Puppets stand in the firmer and are less subject to loosen But then if the Diameters of the work be large the Puppets may be too short to Turn that work in For the Pikes of the Puppets must stand somewhat more than half the Diameter of the Work above the superficies of the Cheeks Therefore Turners have commonly two or three pair of Puppets to fit one Lathe and always strive to use the shortest they can to serve their Work unless the shortness of the Leggs of the Lathe makes the workfall too low for the pitch of the Workman that is to work at the Lathe Therefore in the making of the Lathe the height of the Legs with relation to the intended work and height of the Workman are to be well considered At the lower end of these Puppets are made two Tennants of such a thickness that they may easily slide in the Groove between the two Cheeks and so long that a Mortess through it of the length of the Cheeps depth and a sufficient strength of Wood below it may be contained Into this Mortess is fitted a Tapering Wedge somewhat less at the fore end and bigger at the hinder end than the Mortess that as it is forced into the Mortess with a Mallet or a Maul it may draw the bottom Shoulder of the Puppet close and firmly down upon the Cheeks that they may neither joggle or tremble in working ¶ 4. Of the Horn. UPon the Right Hand Puppet on the out side near the top of it is hung the Tip-end of an Horn with its Tip downwards to hold Oyl in and ought to have a Wooden round Cover to fit into it that neither Chips or Dirt get in to spoil the Oyl and in the handle of the Cover should be fitted a wooden Butten which may serve for an Handle to the Cover And through this Butten should be fastned an Iron Wyer to reach almost to the bottom of the Horn This Wyer stands always in the Oyl that so oft as the Workman has occasion to oyl the Centers of the Work to make his work slip about the easier he takes the wooden Cover by the Button Wyer and all and with the end of the Wyer Oyls his Center-holes and pops his-Wyer and Cover again into the Horn against he has occasion to use it the next time ¶ 5. Of the Pikes and Screw NEar the upper end of one of these Puppets is fastned a strong Iron Pike but its point is made of tempered Steel and near the upper end of the other Puppet is fitted an Iron Screw quite through a Nut in the Puppet whose point is also made of Temper'd Steel This Iron Pike in one Puppet and the Screw in the other Puppet are so fitted into the Puppets that their Shanks lie in a straight Line with one another and both their points lie also in that straight Line pointing to one another And in the Head of the Iron Screw is a Hole where-into is fitted an Iron Handle about seven or eight Inches long with a round Knob at each end of it that it slip not through the hole in the Head This Iron Handle is to turn about the Screw forward or backward as your purpose shall require Upon the points of this Screw and Pike the Centers of the Work are pitcht and afterwards screwed with the Screw hard and so far into the Stuff that it may not slip off the points in working especially if it be soft Wood and the work large and heavy Also near the upper end of these Puppets upon that side the Workman stands when he works the Wood of the Puppets is wrought away to square flat shoulders somewhat below the Pikes that the Rest may if occasion be lie near the Pikes and bear steddy upon the Shoulders ¶ 6. Of the Rest. THE Rest is a square piece of Stuff about an Inch or an Inch and half thick and two Inches or two and an half broad and somewhat longer than the distance between the Puppets It s Office is to rest the Tool upon that it may lie in a steddy position while the Workman uses it ¶ 7. Of the Side-Rest BUT besides this Rest
office is to follow the Former and to pare off and smoothen the irregularities the Former made It is not knockt upon with the Mallet but the Blade is clasped upon the out side of the hindermost joints of the fore and little fingers by the clutched inside of the middle and third fingers of the right hand and so its edge being set upon the scribed line and the top of the Helve placed against the hollow of the inside of the right sholder with pressing the sholder hard upon the Helve the edge cuts and pares away the irregularities This way of handling may seem a preposterous posture to mannage an Iron Tool in and yet the reason of the Original contriver of this Posture is to be approved For should Workmen hold the Blade of the Paring-Chissel in their whole hand they must either hold their hand pretty near the Helve where they cannot well mannage the Tool or they must hold it pretty near the edge where the outside of the fingers will hide the scribed line they are to Pare in But this posture all Workmen are at first taught and Practice doth so inure them to it that if they would they could not well leave it § 12. Of the Skew-Former The Skew-Former marked C4 is seldom used by Joyners but for cleansing accute Angles with its accute Angle on its edge where the Angles of other Chissels will not so well come § 13. Of the Mortess-Chissel The Mortess Chissel marked C5 is a narrow Chissel but hath its Blade much thicker and consequently stronger that it may endure the heavier blows with the Mallet than other Chissels have so that in grinding it to an edge it is ground to a very broad Basil as you may see in the Figure It s Office is to cut deep square holes called Mortesses in a piece of Wood. Joyners use them of several Breadths according as the Breadths of their Mortesses may require § 14. Of the Gouge The Gouge marked C6 is a Chissel having a round edge for the cutting such Wood as is to be Rounded or Hollowed These several sorts of Chissels Joyners have of several Sizes that they may be accommodated to do several Sizes of Work MECHANICK EXERCISES OR THE DOCTRINE OF HANDY-WORKS By Joseph Moxon late Member of the Royal Society and Hydrographer to King Charles II. LONDON Printed and Sold by J. Moxon 1694. MECHANICK EXERCISES OR The Doctrine of Handy-Works Continued in the ART of JOYNERY § 15. Of the Square and its Use. THE Square marked D is two adjunct Sides of a Geometrical Square a The Handle b The Tongue c The Outer Square d The Inner Square For Joyner's use it is made of two pieces of wood the one about an Inch thick and the other about a quarter of an Inch thick These two pieces are severally shot exactly straight and have each of their Sides parallel to each of there own Sides The thick Piece called the Handle hath a Mortess in it as long within a quarter of an Inch as the thin piece called the Tongue is broad and stifly so wide as to contain the thickness of the Tongue The Tongue is fastned into the Mortess of the Handle with Glew and wooden pins so as the two outer sides and then consequently the two inner sides may stand at right Angles with one another The Reason why the Handle is so much thicker than the Tongue is because the Handle should on either side become a Fence to the Tongue And the reason why the Tongue hath not its whole breadth let into the end of the Handle is because they may with less care strike a line by the side of a a thin than a thick piece For if instead of holding the hand upright when they strike a line they should hold it never so little inwards the shank of a Pricker falling against the top edge of the Handle would throw the Point of a Pricker farther out than a thin piece would to avoid which Inconvenience the Tongue is left about half an Inch out of the end of the Handle Another Reason is That if with often striking the Pricker against the Tongue it becomes ragged or uneven they can with less trouble plane it again when the stuff is all the way of an equal strength than they can if cross-grain'd Sholders be added to any part of it It s use is for the striking of Lines square either to other Lines or to straight sides and to try the squareness of their Work by As if they would strike a Line square to a side they have already shot They apply the inside of the Handle close to the side shot and lay the Tongue flat upon the work then by the outerside of the Tongue they draw with a Pricker a straight line this is called Striking or drawing of a Square Or if they would Try the squareness of a Piece of stuff shot on two adjoining sides they apply the insides of the Handle and Tongue to the outsides of the stuff and if the outsides of the stuff do all the way agree in Line with the insides of the Square it is true Square Or if they would try the inward squareness of work they apply the two outsides of the Square to the insides of the work § 16. The manner of Plaining and Trying a piece of Stuff square We will take for Example a Piece of Stuff called a Quarter which is commonly two Inches thick four Inches broad and seven Foot long To plane this Square lay one of its broad sides upon the Bench with one of its ends shov'd pretty hard into the Teeth of the Bench-hook that it may lie the steddier Then with the Fore-Plane as you were taught § 2. Number 2. Plane off the roughness the Saw made at the Pit and work that side of the Quarter as straight in its length and breadth as you can with the Fore-Plane which you may give a pretty good guess at if the edge of the Iron have born all the way upon the work yet you may try by taking up your work and applying one end of it to one Eye whilst you wink with the other and observe if any Hollow or Dawks be in the length if not you may conclude it pretty true For the work thus held the Eye will discern pretty nearly Or for more certainty you may apply the edge of the two-foot Rule or rather a Rule shot the full length of the Quarter to your work and if it agree all the way with the Rule you may conclude it is straight in length But if you find it not straight you must still with the Fore-Plane work off those Risings that bear the edge of the Rule off any part of the Stuff Then try if the Breadth be pretty straight if it be the Dawks the roughness the Fore Plane made excepted the first office of the Fore Plane is perform'd If it be not you must straighten the Breadth as you did the Length But though this Quarter
Plate 4. with the handle towards their left hand and the end of the Saw to the right then with a three-square File they begin at the left hand end leaning harder upon the side of the file on the right hand than on that side to the left hand so that they file the upperside of the Tooth of the Saw a-slope towards the right hand and the underside of the Tooth a little a-slope towards the left or almost down-right Having filed one Tooth thus all the rest must be so filed Then with the Saw-wrest marked O. in Plate 4. they set the Teeth of the Saw that is they put one of the Notches marked a a a of the Wrest between the first two Teeth on the Blade of the Saw and then turn the Handle Horizontally a little about upon the Notch towards the end of the Saw and that at once turns the first Tooth somewhat towards you and the second Tooth from you Then skipping two Tooth they again put one of the notches of the Wrest between the third and fourth Teeth on the Blade of the Saw and then as before turn the Handle a little about upon the notch towards the end of the Saw and that turns the third Tooth somewhat towards you and the Fourth somewhat from you Thus you must skip two Teeth at a time and turn the Wrest till all the Teeth of the Saw are set This Setting of the Teeth of the Saw as Workmen call it is to make the Kerf wide enough for the Back to follow the edge and is Set Ranker for soft course cheap Stuff than for hard fine and costly Stuff for the Ranker the Tooth is set the more Stuff is wasted in the Kerf and besides if the Stuff be hard it will require greater labour to tear away a great deal of hard Stuff than it will do to tear away but a little of the same Stuff The Pit-Saw is Set so Rank for course stuff as to make a Kerf of almost a quarter of an Inch but for fine and costly stuff they set it finer to save Stuff The Whip-Saw is set somewhat finer than the Pit-Saw the Hand-Saw and the Compass-Saw finer than the Whip-Saw But the Tennant-Saw Frame-saw and the Bow-Saw c. are set fine and have their Teeth but very little turned over the sides of their Blades So that a Kerf made by them is seldom above half a half quarter of an Inch. The reason why the Teeth are filed to an Angle pointing towards the end of the Saw and not towards the handle of the Saw or directly straight between the handle and end of the Saw is Because the Saw is designed to cut only in its progess forwards Man having in that activity more strength to rid and Command of his hands to guide his Work than he can have in drawing back his Saw and therefore when he draws back his Saw the Work-men bears it lightly off the unsawn Stuff which is an case to is labour and enables him the longer to continue his several Progressions of the Saw Master-Workmen when they direct any of their Underlins to saw such a piece of Stuff have several Phrases for the sawing of it They seldom say Saw that piece of Stuff But Draw the Saw through it Give that piece of Stuff a kerf Lay a kerf in that piece of Stuff and sometimes but most unproperly Cut or Slit that piece of stuff For the Saw cannot properly be said to cut or slit the Stuff but it rather breaks or tears away such parts of the Stuff from the whole as the points of the Teeth prick into and these parts it so tears away are proportionable to the fineness or rankness of the Setting of the Teeth The Excellency of Sawing is to keep the kerf exactly in the line marked out to be Sawn without wriggling on either or both sides And straight through the Stuff as Work-men call it that is in a Geometrical Term perpendicularly through the upper and underside if your Work require it as most work does But if your work be to be Sawn upon a Bevil as some work sometimes is then you are to observe that Bevil all the length of the Stuff c. § 27. The Use of the Pit-Taw marked M. in Plate 4. The Pit-Saw is not only used by those Work-men that make Sawing Timber and Boards their whole business but is also for small matters used by Joyners when what they have to do may perhaps be as soon done at home as they can carry or send it to the Sawyers The manner of their working is both alike for if it be a Board they would slit off a piece of Timber or if they would take any square Quarter or Batten c. off they first set off their Scantlin For Example If it be an Inch or more or less they would take off a piece of Stuff they open the points of their Compasses to an Inch measure on their Rule and so much more as they reckon the kerf of the Saw will make and from on side of their Stuff they set off at either end of the Stuff the Distance of the points of their Compasses at this Distance therefore they make with the points of their Compasses a prick at either end of the Stuff Then with Chaulk they whiten a line by rubbing the Chaulk pretty hard upon it Then one holds the line at one end upon the prick made there and the other strains the line pretty stiff upon the prick at the other end then whilst the line is thus strain'd one of them between his Finger and Thumb draws the middle of the line directly upright to a convenient height that it may spring hard enough down and then lets it go again so that it swiftly applies to its first position and strikes so strongly against the Stuff that the dust or attoms of the Chaulk that were rubbed into the Line shake out of it and remain upon the Stuff And thus also they mark the under-side of their Stuff This is called Lining of the Stuff And the Stuff cut into those lines shall be called Inch-Stuff because the Compasses that prickt the Stuff were opened wider by the width of the kerf than an Inch measure upon the Rule But had the Compasses been opened but an Inch exactly that piece Sawn off should in Workmen's Language have been called Inch-prickt thereby giving to understand that it is half the breadth of the kerf thinner than an Inch And thus they call all other Scantlins 2 Inches 2 ½ Inches 3 Inches c. Sawn or Prickt When two Work-men are not at hand to hold the line at both ends he that lines it strikes one point of his Compass or sometimes a Pricker or a Nale aslope towards that end into the prick set off and putting the noose at the end of his line over his Compasses c. goes to the other end and strains his line on that prick and strikes it as before The Stuff being thus lined
Grain upwards and downwards as it grew It hath three Leges in it that stand stradling out from the underside of the Block to the Floor and of such an height as the Workman may have most Command of the Work See the Figure Sometimes Turners use instead of it a piece of the Trunk of a Tree of about a Foot and an half or two Foot in length from the Ground or more or less § XI Of the Callippers THE Callippers is marked O in Plate 13. As common Compasses described Numb 6. § 32. are for measuring Distances upon a plain Superficies so Callippers measure the distance of any round Cilindrick Conical Body either in their Extremity or any part less than the Extream So that when Workmen use them they open the two points a a to their described width and Turn so much Stuff off the intended place till the two points of the Callippers fit just over their Work so shall their Work have just the Diameter in that place as is the distance between the two points of the Callippers be it either Feet or Inches c. § XII Of the Drill-Bench THere is yet another Tool or rather a Machine used by some Turners called a Drill-Bench It is described in Plate 14. a a a a a thick Board about three Inches thick five Inches broad and eighteen Inches long b b two Stiles placed towards either end and fastned upright In the hithermost Stile is a Coller described § 7. and Plate 13. H or any of the other Collers And in the further Stile is fitted a square flat tempered piece of Steel having a Center-hole in the middle of it and is placed just against the Center or middle point of the Hole of the Coller c c the Rowler whose hither end is Turned away so as it just fit into the Coller and at the further end of it it hath a temper'd Steel Pin to be placed in the Center-hole And in the middle of the hither end of it it hath a Piercer-Bit fastned straight in so that it lie in a true straight Line with the Axis of the Rowler Of these Rowlers they have several and Bits of different sizes fitted into them that upon all occasions they may chuse one to fit their purpose On the under-side about the middle of the Bench is fitted and fastned athwart it a square Iron Coller deep enough to reach through the Cheeks of the Lathe and so much deeper as it may receive a Wooden Wedge such a one as belongs to one of the Puppets And by the force and strength of the Wedge the whole Drill-bench is drawn down and fastned athwart the Cheeks of the Lathe When it is used it stands athwart the Cheeks of the Lathe as aforesaid with the point or end of the Bit towards you and then the String being turned twice or thrice about the Rowler will with Treading on the Treddle turn the Rowler and its Bit forcibly about and cause it to enter swiftly into a piece of Wood that shall be prest forwards upon the Bit. When they use it they hold the piece of Wood they intend to Drill or Pierce fast in both their Hands right before them and press it forwards upon the Piercer-Bit so that by its running about it cuts a straight round hole into the Wood of what length they please But while the Pole is rising after every Tread they press not against the Piercer-Bit so that it is dis-ingaged from doing its Office in the Wood but in that while they nimbly give the Wood a turn in their hands of about one third part of its Circumference which makes the Bit very successive Tread go the straighter through the middle of the Wood And thus they reiterate Treads and keep the Wood turning in their Hands till the Bit is enter'd deep enough Thus much of the Tools used in common Turning I shall proceed to the Working a Pattern or two in Soft Wood which being well understood may render a Practicer capable of most common Work § XIII Of Turning a Cilinder in Soft Wood THE Soft Wood Turners Use is commonly either Maple Alder Birch Beech Elm Oak Fir c. and for some particular purposes each of these sorts are best The First Pattern we purpose shall be a Cilinder two Inches over and eight Inches long Therefore you must chuse a piece of Wood at lest two Inches and a quarter over lest you want Stuff to work upon Nay if your Stuff prove shaken or otherwise unsound or your Center be not very exactly pitcht you may want yet more Stuff and that according as it proves more or less faulty or as the Centers are more unequally pitcht But supposing the Stuff good you may take a piece of two Inches and a quarter over as I said before and about ten or eleven Inches long For though the length of the Cilinder be but eight Inches yet you must cut your Stuff long enough to make a Groove at one end of it besides for the String to run in If your Stuff be somewhat too big for your Scantlin and not round enough to go into the Lathe you must Hew it pretty near with the Hatchet to make it sizable and afterwards smoothen it nearer with a Draw-knife as you were taught Numb 7. § 5. But if you have not Stuff at hand near your size then you must Saw off your length from a Billet or some other piece of Stuff and with the Cleaving-knife and the Mawl split it into a square piece near the size and with the Draw-knife round off the Edges to maks it fit for the Lathe Then set your Puppets and wedge them tight up so as the Points of your Spikes stand pretty near the length of your Work assunder and move the Pole so as the end of it may hang over between the Pikes and also fit the Iron Pin in the Treddle into a proper Hole in the Cross-Treddle so as the end of the Treddle may draw the String below the Work into pretty near a straight Line with the string above the Work And take the Work in your Right hand and put it beyond the String before you and with your left hand wind the String below the Work but once about the Work lest it should be too strong for your shallow Centers as you shall understand by and by and then with a pretty strength press the middle of one end of your Work over the Point of one of the Pikes and so make a hole in your Work for one of the Center holes Then screw your Pike wider or closer according as the length of your Work requires and pitch the other end of your Work upon the other Pike also and screw your Work a little lightly up Then try how the Centers are pitcht by Treading the Treddle lightly down and if you find the Centers are well pitcht you may without more ado screw up your Work tight But if your Centers or either of them be not well pitcht
so oft as you can from the one end of the Spindle to the other but I should first have told you that the end of your Spindle must be truly square to the outside and with a Prick-Punch make a mark to every setting off on that line Do the like to all the other straight upright Lines Note that you may chuse one of these eight upright lines for the first and make the next towards your left hand the second but then the first must stand towards you and the next that the third and so on And the top mark of every one of these upright straight Lines shall be called the first Mark the next under that the second Mark the third the third Mark and so downwards in Order and Number Having marked one of these eight Lines at the top of the Spindle to begin the winding of the Worm at with a Black-lead Pencil draw a line from that Mark to the second Mark on the next upright line towards the left hand from thence continue drawing on with your Pencil to the third Mark on the third upright line draw on still to the fourth Mark on the fourth upright line and so onwards till you have drawn over the eight straight lines which when you have done you must still continue on drawing downwards to each lower Mark on each successive upright line till you have drawn your Worm from end to end Then examine as well as you can by your Eye whether the Worm you have carried on from Mark to Mark with the Black-lead Pencil do not break into Angles which if it do any where you must mend it in that place Then with the edge of an half-round File file a small line in that Black-lead line and be sure that the line you are filing run exactly through all the Marks that the Black-lead Pencil should have run through if it did not for want of good guidance of the hand This small line is only for a guide to cut the Groove down by for the making of a Screw is indeed nothing else but the cutting the Groove down for then the Worm remains But you must not file in this small line but leave it as a guide to lie on the middle of the Worm as I said before Therefore to cut down the Groove take a Cold-Chissel somewhat thinner than you intend the Groove shall be wide viz. about the thickness of the breadth of the Worm and with heavy blows cut out the Groove pretty near The reason why you should not offer to cut the Grooves to their full width at the first is because your Hand may carry the Cold-Chissel somewhat awry and should your Cold-Chissel be as thick as the Groove is wide you could not smooth the Irregularities out without making the Worm narrower than you intended it Then with a Flat-file open and smooth the Groves filing in the middle between the two next fine lines cut by the Half-round File till you have wrought the Spindle from end to end so shall the Worm remain But you must not expect that though the Groove be cut it is therefore finished for now you must begin to use the thin Plate-Gage and try First whether the Worm have equal breadth all the way Secondly whether rhe Groove have equal breadth all the way And Thirdly whether the Groove have equal depth all the way and whereever you find the Worm too broad you must file it thinner and where the Groove is not deep enough file it deeper therefore in cutting down the Groove you may observe that if at first you file the Worm ne'er so little too narrow or the Groove ne'er so little too deep you shall have all the rest of the Worm or Groove to file over again because the whole Worm must be wrought to the breadth of the smallest part of it and the whole Groove to the depth of the deepest place all the way especially if the Nut be to be Cast in Brass upon the Spindle because the Mettal running close to the Spindle will bind on that place and not come off it but if the Nut be not to be Cast in Brass but only hath a Worm brazed into it this niceness is not so absolutely necessary because that Worm is first Turned up and bowed into the Grooves of the Spindle and you may try that before it is Braz'd into the Nut and if it go not well about you may mend or botch it either by Hammering or Filing or both The manner of Casting the Nut upon the Spindle I shall shew when I come to the Casting of Mettals and the manner of Brazing hath been Taught already Numb I. fol. 12 13. If your Spindle is to have three or four Worms winding about it as Coining-Presses and Printing-Presses have that they may not wear out too fast you must divide the Circumference into three or four equal parts and each of these equal parts into two equal parts and having straight upright lines drawn as before begin a Worm at each of those three or four Divisions on the Circumference and considering the breadth of your Worm and width of your Groove measure that width so oft as you can on all the upright lines and making Marks on those at each Setting off draw as before a line from the end of the Spindle on the first upright line to the Mark below it which is the second Mark on the second upright line from thence to the third Mark on the third upright line and so on to the other end of the Spindle Having drawn the first Worm work the other Worms as this MECHANICK EXERCISES OR The Doctrine of Handy-Works Viz. The making of Jacks and Bullet-Molds the twisting of Iron and Case-hardning it with the use of some Tools not treated of before Also of the several Sorts of Steel the manner of Softning Hardning and Tempering them Of Jacks FIg. 1. is called a Worm-Jack AB the Fore-side AC the Back-side AA the Top-piece BC the Bottom-piece altogether the Jack-Frame EEK the Main-Spindle NON the Main Wheel and Barrel O the Barrel D the Wind-up-piece fastned into the Barrel FF the Worm-wheel Spindle G the Worm-wheel Q the Worm-Nut H the Worm R the Stud of the Worm-Spindle D the Worm-Loop L the Wind-up-piece M the Winch or Winder or Handle the Iron part is the Winder the Wood the Handle S the Eye of the Winder II the Fly T the Socket of the Fly V the Struck-Wheel X the Stayes or Back-fastnings First you are to Forge the Jack-frame and on the left side of the Foreside a Shank for the Stud of the Worm-spindle as you were taught Numb I. fol. 8 9 10 11 12. and then file it as you were taught Numb I. fol. 14 15 16. The top and bottom Pieces are let into square holes at the ends of the Fore and Backsides But you must forge the top and bottom Pieces with two small Squares towards the ends of them and two round ends for Screw-pins beyond
Square-bore that it may cut the faster And you must be sure to guide the Square-bore truly straight forwards in the hole lest the hole be wrought aslope in the Iron b To open an hole is in Smith's Language to make the hole wider c A Dufftail is a Figure made in the form of a Doves-tail and is used by many other Handy-crafts as well as by Smiths but most especially by Joyners as I shall shew when I come to Joynery d A Jack-file is a broad File somewhat thin on both Edges and stronger in the middle The manner of making Molds to Cast Leaden Bullets in I insert the making of Bullet-Molds because there is some sort of Work in them different from what hath yet been taught The Handles and the Heads are forged as other Work but the two concave Hemispheres are first punched with a round-ended Punch of the shape and almost of the size you intend the Bullet shall be They must be punch'd deep enough at the Forge with a Blood-red-heat then are the Edges of the Chaps filed flat first with a Common-file the Common-way but afterwards with an Using-file as Workmen call it The Using-file is a long and broad File exactly flat on both its cut sides having a square Iron handle drawn out at one end with an hole in it but the handle is not to hold it by when you use it but the hole in it to go over a pin you hang it upon when you do not use it When you use it you must lay it flat upon the Work-bench with its handle from you and you must take care that it lie solid and steddy lest when you work upon it it slip from you therefore you may strike a Nail in at the hole in the handle a little way into the Work-Bench that you may draw it again when you have done with the Using-file and you may drive in a small Tack on each side the Using-file to keep it steddy or you may tack down two small thin boards on either side the Using-file to keep it steddy and rip them off again when you have done Your Using-file lying thus straight and steddy before you lay the Chaps of one half of the Mold flat upon the hither end of the Using-file and holding your two Thumbs and your two Fore-fingers upon the head of the Mold thrust your work hard down from you the whole length of the Using-file then draw your work lightly back and thrust it again hard from you reiterate these thrusts thus till upon the Chaps of the Mold you can see no irregularities or the File-stroaks of the common File left so may you be sure that the Chaps of the Mold is truly flat Do the like by the other half of the Mold Now you must try whether each of these concaves be an exact half-round thus you may describe an Arch a little more than a Semi-Circle just of the Diameter of your Bullet upon the end of a thin piece of Brass-latin draw a straight line through the center and the Arch on both sides it for the limits of a Semi-circle file very curiously all the Brass away on the end just to this Semi-circle and just to the Diametral line on either side of the Semi-circle so have you a convex Semi-circle Put this convex Semi-circle into the concave Molds if it fits them so as the convex reaches just the bottom of the Molds when its shoulder touches just the chaps of the Mold they are each a true concave Hemisphere But if the shoulder of the convex that is a Diametral Line prolong'd rides upon the chaps of the Concave and the bottom of the Convex touch not the bottom of the Concave the Concave is punched too deep and must have its chaps rubb'd upon the Using-file again till it comply with the convex Then put into the two Concaves a round Bullet that will just fill them both and pinching the Heads of the Mold close together in a Vice with the Bullet in it drill an hole through both the handles for the Joint The reason why the Bullet is put into the Mold is because the Chaps of the two Halves should lie exactly upon one another whilst the hole for the Joint is drilling Then fit a Rivet-pin for this hole and rivet them together but not so hard but that the Mold may open and shut pretty easy and yet go true Then take the Bullet out and file in each half of the head half a round hole directly against one another for the a Geat which two half holes when the Mold is shut will make one round hole You may now try with Clay or by casting a leaden Bullet in it whether it be exactly round or no for making a true round hole in a thin piece of Brass just of the circumference of the chaps you may try if the cast Bullet will just pass thro' and also fill that hole when the Bullet it turned every way which if it do you may conclude the Mold is true This thin piece of Brass with a round hole in it is called a Sizer But the inside wants cleansing for hitherto it is only punched Therefore you must provide a b Bullet-bore with which you may bore the inside of each half to clear it Or if they be not quite deep enough punch'd you may bore them deeper You may bore them severally or together by putting the Bullet-bore into the Mold so as the Shank may come through the Geat In this Section you see first the use of a Using-file an Instrument of great use for flat Filing for by it you may make two pieces of Iron of somewhat considerable breadth so true that by laying the two flat sides upon each other they shall draw up one another It is much used by Clock-makers Watch-makers Letter-Mold-makers and indeed all others that frame Square-Work on Iron Steel or Brass Secondly the use of a Bullet-bore which tho' it be seldom used yet it may serve not only for Bullet-Molds but for other purposes and by altering its shape into an Oblong a Cone or a Cilinder you may Bore these hollow Figures either for Molds or some other accidental Uses a A Geat is the hole through which the Mettal runs into the Mold The Word is used by most Founders b The Bullet-bore is a Shank of Steel having a steel Globe or Bullet at one end just of your intended Bullet's size This Globular end must be hatched with a fine cut by a File-cutter and Hardned and Tempered The end of the Shank this Globular Bore is fastned to must be round and so small that when the Bullet-bore is in the Mold the Geat will easily receive it The other end of the Shank must be fitted into the square Socket of the Wimble and have a Shoulder to it to stop the Socket from sliding too far upon the Shank From this Shoulder the rest of the Shank must run tapering down to the small end the Bullet-bore is fastned to
be thus plained straight in length and breadth yet because the Iron of the Fore Plane for its first working the stuff is set Rank and therefore makes great Dawks in the Stuff you must set the Iron of your Fore Plane finer as you were taught § 3. Number 2. and with it then work down even almost to the bottom of those Dawks then try it again as before and if you find it Try all the way you may with the Joynter or Smoothing Plane but rather with the Joynter go over it again to work out the irregularities of the fine Fore-Plane For the Iron of the Fore-Plane being ground to a Rising in the middle as has been shewed § 2. Numb 2. though it be very fine set will yet leave some dawks in the Stuff for the Joynter or smoothing Plane to work out Thus the first side of the Quarter will be finished Having thus Tryed one side of the Quarter straight and flat apply the inside of the Handle to it and if one of the adjoining sides of the Quarter comply also with the inside of the Tongue all the way you need only smooth that adjoining side But if it do not so comply that is if it be not square to the first side which you will know by the riding of the inside of the Tongue upon one of the edges or some other part between the edges you must with the Fore-Plane Rank-set plane away that stuff which bears off the inside of the Tongue from complying all the way with it But if the Risings be great you may for quickness hew away the Risings with the Hatchet but then you must have a care you let not the edge of your Hatchet cut too deep into the stuff lest you either spoil your Stuff by making it unsizeable if it be already small enough or if it have substance enough make your self more labour to get out those Hatchet stroaks with the Plane than you need Then take off the roughness the Hatchet made with the Fore-Plane Rank-set then fine set and last of all with the Joynter or smoothing Plane So is the second side also finished To work the third side set the Oval of the Gage exactly to that width from the Gage that you intend the Breadth of the Quarter when wrought shall have which in this our Example is four Inches but will be somewhat less because working it true will diminish the Stuff Therefore sliding the Oval on the Staff measure on your Inch Rule so much less than four Inches as you think your stuff diminishes in working Measure I say between the Oval and the Tooth your size If at the first proffer your Oval stand too far from the Tooth hold the Oval in your hand and knock the Tooth end of your Staff upon the Work-Bench till it stand near enough If the Oval stand too near knock the other end of the Staff upon the Work-Bench till it be fit Then apply the flat of the Oval to the second wrought side of your Stuff so as the Tooth may reach athwart the breadth of the Stuff upon the first side and keeping the Oval close against the second side press the Tooth so hard down that by drawing the Gage in this posture all along the length of the Quarter the Tooth may strike a Line In like manner upon the side opposite to the first viz. the Fourth side Gage another line opposite to the first gaged line and work your Stuff down to those two Gaged lines on the third side either with Plaining along or with Hewing and afterwards Plaining as you were taught to work the second side To Work the fourth side set the Tooth of the Gage to its exact distance from the Oval viz. two Inches wanting so much as you think the stuff diminish'd in working and apply the flat of the Oval to each side of the first side and Gage as before two lines one on the second the other on the third wrought side Work your stuff then down on the fourth side to those two Gage lines either with Plaining alone or with Hewing and afterwards Plaining as you were taught to work the second side § 17. To Frame two Quarters Square into one another You must take care in Mortessing and Tennanting that as near as you can you equallize the strength of the sides of the Mortess to the strength of the Tennant I do not mean that the stuff should be of an equal Substance for that is not equallizing strength But the equallizing strength must be considered with respect to the Quality Position and Substance of the Stuff As if you were to make a Tennant upon a piece of Fur and a Mortess to receive it in a piece of Oak and the Fur and Oak have both the same size The Tennant therefore made upon this piece of Fur must be considerably bigger than a Tennant need be made of Oak because Fur is much a weaker wood then Oak and therefore ought to have a greater Substance to equallize the strength of Oak And for Position the shorter the stuff that the Tennant is made on the less Violence the Tennant is subject to Besides it is easier to split wood with the grain than to brake wood cross the grain and therefore the same wood when posited as a Tennant is stronger than the same wood of the same size when posited as a Mortess for the injury a Mortess is subject to is splitting with the grain of the wood which without good care it will often do in working but the force that must injure a Tennant must offend it cross the grain of the wood in which position it will best indure violence When two pieces of Wood of the same quality and substance as in this our Example are elected to make on the one a Tennant and in the other a Mortess If you make the Mortess too wide the sides of the Mortess will be weaker than the Tennant or if too narrow the Tennant that must fit the Mortess will be weaker than the sides that contain the Mortess And if one be weaker then the other the weakest will give way to the strongest when an equal violence is offer'd to both Therefore you may see a necessity of equallizing the strength of one to the other as near as you can But because no Rule is extant to do it by nor can for many considerations I think be made therefore this equallizing of strength must be referred to the Judgment of the Operator Now to the work The Mortess to be made is in a Quarter four Inches broad In this case Workmen make the Mortess an Inch wide so that an Inch and an half Stuff remains on either side it Therefore your Stuff being squar'd as was taught in the last Section set the Oval of the Gage an Inch and an half off the Tooth and gage with it on either side your Stuff a straight line at that distance from the end you intend the Mortess shall be then open
your Compasses to two Inches and prick off that distance in one of the lines for the length of the Mortess then lay the inside of the Handle of the Square to one side of the Stuff and upon both the pricks successively and with your Pricker draw straight lines through them by the side of the Tongue so shall the bounds of your Mortess be struck out on the Quarter If your Mortess go through the Quarter draw the same lines on the opposite side of the Quarter thus Turn the Quarter or its edge and apply the inside of the Handle of the Square to the ends of the former drawn lines and by the side of the Tongue draw two lines on the edge of the Quarter then turn the Quarter again with its other broad side upwards and apply the inside of the Handle of the Square to the ends of the last lines drawn on the edge and by the side of the Tongue draw two lines on this broad side also These two lines if your quarter was truly squar'd shall be exactly opposite to the two lines drawn on the first broad side of the quarter for the length of the Mortess And for the width of the Mortess Gage this side also as you did the first then for the Tennant Gage on that end of the Quarter you intend the Tennant shall be made the same lines you did for the Mortess And because the Quarter is two Inches thick prick from the end two Inches and applying the inside of the Handle of the Square to the side of the Quarter and the Tongue to that Prick draw by the side of the Tongue a line through that side the Quarter then turn the other sides of the Quarter successively and draw lines athwart each side the Quarter as you were taught to draw the opposite lines for the Mortess Then place the edge of the Inch-Mortess-Chissel with its Basil from you and the Helve bearing a little towards you within one half quarter of an Inch of one end of the struck Mortess and with your Mallet knock hard upon it till you find the Basil of the Chissel will no longer force the chips out of the Mortess then remove the Chissel to the other end of the Mortess and work as with the first end till the Chips will void no longer Then work away the Stuff betwen the two Ends and begin again at one of the ends and then at the other and work deeper into the Mortess then again between both and so work deeper by degrees till you have wrought the Mortess through or if not through to the intended depht then with the Mortess-Chissel work nearer the drawn lines at the ends of the Mortess for before you were directed to work but within half a quarter of an Inch of the drawn lines by laying light blows on it till you have made it fit to pare smooth with a narrow Paring Chissel and then pare the ends as you were taught to work with the Paring-Chissel then with the broad Paring-Chissel pare the sides of the Mortess just to the Struck lines so is the Mortess finished To work the Tennant lay the other Quarter on edge upon your Work-Bench and fasten it with the Holdfast as you were taught Sect. I. Then with the Tennant Saw a little without the struck-Struck-line towards the end you must not Saw just upon the Struck-line because the Saw cuts rough Besides you must leave some Stuff to pare away smooth to the Struck-line that the Stile that is the upright Quarter may make a close Joint with the Rail that is the lower Quarter Saw therefore right down with the Tennant-Saw just almost to the gaged lines for the thickness of the Tennant and have a care to keep the Blade of the Saw exactly upright Then turn the opposite side of the Quarter upwards and work as you were taught to work the first side Then with the Paring-Chissel pare the Work close to the gaged lines for the Tennant Then try how it fits the Mortess If it be not pared enough away you must Pare it where it Bears that is sticks But if you should chance to have made it too little you have spoiled your work Therefore you may see how necessary it is not to make the Mortess too wide at first or the Tennant too narrow Then with the Piercer pierce two holes through the sides or cheeks of the Mortess about half an Inch off either end one Then knock the Tennant stiff into the Mortess and set it upright by applying the Angle of the outer Square to the Angle the two Quarters make and with your Pricker prick round about the insides of the Pierced holes upon the Tennant Then take the Tennant out again and Pierce two holes with the same Bit about the thickness of a shilling above the Pricked holes on the Tennant that is nearer the sholder of the Tennant that the Pins you are to drive in may draw the sholder of the Tennant the closer to the flat side of the Quarter the Mortess is made in Then with the Paring-Chissel make two Pins somewhat Tapering full big enough and setting the two Quarters again square as before Drive the Pins stiff into the Pierced holes If you make another Square as you did this and make also a Tennant on each un-Tennanted end of the Stiles and another Mortess on the top and bottom Rails you may put them together and make square Frame of them § 18. Of the Miter Square And its Use. The Miter square marked E hath as the Square an Handle marked a one Inch thick and three Inches broad and a Tongue marked b of about the same breadth the Handle and the Tongue as the Square have both their sides parallel to their own sides The Handle as the square hath in the middle of its narrowest Side a Mortess in it of an equal depht the whole length of the Handle Into this Mortess is fitted one end of the Tongue but the end of the Handle is first Bereld off to make an Angle of 45 Degrees with its inside This Tongue is as the square Pin'd and Glewed into the Mortess of the Handle It is used for striking a Miter-line as the Square is to strike a Square-line by applying the Inside of the Handle to the outside of the Quarter or Batten you are to work upon and then by striking a line by the side of the Tongue For that line shall be a Miter line And if upon two Battens you strike two such lines and Saw and Pare them just off in the lines when the flats of those two sawn ends are applied to one another the out and inside of the Battens will form themselves into the Figure of a Square Thus Picture Frames and looking Glass-frames are commonly made as by a more full Example you may see in the next Section § 19. Of the Bevil As the Square is made to strike an Angle of 90 Degrees and the Miter an Angle of 45 degrees so the
Bevil marked F having its Tongue movable upon a Center may be set to strike Angles of any greater or lesser numbers of Degrees according as you open the Tongue wider from or shut it closer to the Handle It is used as the Square and the Miter and will perform the Offices of them both though it be not purposely made for either but for the striking such Bevil lines as one part of your work must be cut away to to make it join with another part of your work For Example We will propose to make a Frame for a Picture Looking-Glass c. containing eight straight Sides You may quickly perceive that all the ends of these eight sides must be cut to Bevils and what Bevils they must be you will find if you describe upon a smooth flat Board a Circle of any bigness but the larger the better Divide this Circle into eight equal parts and from every point draw a Line to the Center Draw also straight lines from every point to its next point Then lay the inside of the Handle of your Bevil exactly upon any one of these straight lines so as the Angle made by the inside of the Handle and the inside of the Tongue lie exactly at the very Angle made by this straight line and the Semi-Diametral line proceeding from the Center and move the Tongue nearer or farther off the Handle till the inside of the Tongue and the inside of the Handle lie exactly upon those two lines so shall your Bevil be set Then having fitted your Pieces to your Seantling Stick your Pricker as near the outward Corner of your Pieces as your stuff will bear and apply the inside of your handle also to the outer sides of your Pieces and so as the inside of the Tongue may be drawn home to the Pricker For then lines drawn on those Pieces by the inside of the Tongue shall be the lines the Pieces must be cut in to make these eight Pieces join evenly together by the sides of each other 's Bevil Then with the Strike-block smooth the ends of the Bevils as you were taught in the Section of the Strike-Block If you have a Board on the Back-side of this Frame you may Glew the backsides of these Pieces piece by piece to the Board but first you must fit them to an exact compliance of every Bevil with its Match and when they are so fitted drive two Nails close to the outside of every piece but drive not the Nails deep into the Board because when the Frame is set and Glewed or otherwise fastned you must draw the Nails out again For these Nails are only intended to serve for Fences to set and sit each piece into its proper place before the whole Frame is fastned together And should you not thus Fence them though by your Eye you might judge you fitted the Bevils exactly yet one piece being never so little out of its due position would drive the next piece more out and that the next till at the last the last piece would not join but either be too short or too long or stand too much out or in or else too open or too close on the out or inside But if you have no Board on the backside you must when you Saw the Bevilling Angles upon the square ends of pieces not sawn quite through the depth of one end of every piece but about half way through the depth or thickness and then with your Chissel either split or else pare the upper side of the square end flat away to the Bevil and so leave part of of the square end of your piece to lap under the piece is joined to For Example In Fig. 3. Plate 5. ab is the square end of the piece and bc is the Bevil you work the piece to Therefore you must work away so much of the thickness of the square end as is comprehended between a and c so that you will see the Triangle abc is to be wrought away half way down the thickness of the Stuff and so will the Triangle abc be left for the other half thickness of the Stuff But that end of the piece mark'd 1 which joins to the piece mark'd 2 must upon its Bevil-stroak be sawn quite off and its underside must have the same Triangle wrought into it just so fit as to receive the Triangle in piece 2 and just so deep as that when the Triangle on piece 2 is fitted into the Triangle in piece 1 the Superficies of both the pieces may be even with one another And thus you may lap the ends of every piece into one another These Triangles at the ends of the pieces you may Glew into one another but if you think Glewing alone not strong enough you may Pierce an hole near the inner edge of the Frame because the Triangle hath there most substance of stuff and afterwards Pin it as you are taught to Pin the Rail and Stile together in Sect. 17. This way of Lapping over is sometimes used also for square Miters or other Angular Frames § 20. Of the Miter-Box There is another way used by Joyners that make many Frames to save themselves the labour of Drawing or striking out of Squares Miters and several Bevils upon their Stuff And this is with a Tool called a Mitter-Box described in Plate 5. Fig. 2. It is composed of two pieces of Wood of an Inch thick each as A the upright piece B the Bottom piece The Upright piece is nailed upright fast upon the Bottom-Piece And this Upright-piece hath on its upper side the Miter Lines struck with the Miter square as de on the left hand and gh on the right hand on these two Miter lines the edge of the Saw is set and a kerf made straight down the upright piece as from d e on the left hand to f and from gh on the right hand to i. In like manner any other Bevil is struck upon the upper side of the upright piece with the Bevil as kl on the left hand and no on the right On these two Bevil lines the edge of the Saw is set and a kerf made straight down the upright piece as from k to lm and from g h to i. You may make as many Bevils as you please on the upright piece of the Miter Box Bevils to join Frames of either five six seven eight sides c. and the manner to make them to any number of sides was in part taught in the last Section For as there you were directed to divide the Circle into eight equal parts because eight was the number of sides we proposed to make that Frame consist of So if for any number of sides you divide the Circle into the same equal parts and work as you were there directed you may find what Bevil the Pieces must have that make a Frame that consists of any number of sides So also for Sawing of any Batten or other small pieces square Strike at the
point a on the upper side of the upright piece a line straight athwart it to b and Saw straight down the upper piece to c. The manner how these Kerfs are sawn straight down with greatest certainty is thus Apply the inside of the Handle of the square to the upperside of the upright piece so as the Tongue lie close to that end of the Miter Bevil or square line struck through the upper side of the Miter-Box and with the Pricker strike a line close by the side of the Tongue through that side of the upright piece Turn the Tongue to the other side of the upright piece and apply the inside of the Handle of the square to the other end of the Miter Bevil or Square line and with the Pricker strike also a line close by the side of the Tongue through that side the upright piece These two lines struck on either side of the upright piece shall be a line on each side in which the edge of the Saw must run to saw it straight down § 21. Of the Gage The Gage mark'd G. in Plate 4 The Oval b is fitted stiff upon the Staff c that it may be set nearer or farther from the Tooth a. Its Office is to Gage a line parallel to any straight side It is used for Gaging Tennants and for Gaging Stuff to an equal thickness When you use it you must set the Oval to the intended Distance from the Tooth If the Oval stand too near the Tooth Hold the Oval in your right hand and knock the hinder end of the Staff upon the Work-bench till it remove to its just distance from the Tooth If it stand too far off the Tooth knock the fore end of the Staff viz. the Tooth end till it remove to its just distance from the Tooth If the Oval slide not stiff enough upon the Staff you may stiffen it by striking a wooden wedge between the Mortess and the Staff So may you apply the side of the Oval next the Tooth to the side of any Table or any other straight side with the Tooth Gage a line parallel or of equal distance all the way from that side § 22. Of the Piercer The Piercer H in Plate 4. hath a the Head b the Pad c the Stock d the Bitt It s office is so well known that I need say little to it Only you must take care to keep the Bitt straight to the Hole you pierce lest you deform the Hole or break the Bitt You ought to be provided with Bitts of several sizes fitted into so many Padds § 23. Of the Gimblet The Gimblet is marked I in Plate 4. It hath a Worm at the end of its Bit Its Office is to make a round hole in those places of your work where the stock of the Piercer by reason of its own sholder or a sholder or Butting out upon the work will not turn about It s Handle is held in a clutched hand and its Bit twisted stiff into your work You must have them several sizes § 24. Of the Augre The Augre marked K in Plate 4. hath aa the Handle b the Bit. Its Office is to make great round holes When you use it the stuff you work upon is commonly laid low under you that you may the easier use your strength upon it For in twisting the Bit about by the force of both your hands on each end of the Handle one it cuts great chips out of the stuff You must bear your strength perpendicularly straight to the end of the Bitt as with the Piercer § 25. Of the Hatchet The Hatchet is marked L in Plate 4. It s uss is so well known even to the most un-intelligent that I need not use many words on it yet thus much I will say Its use is to Hew the irregularities off such pieces of stuff which may be sooner Hewn than Sawn When the Edge is downwards and the Handle towards you the right side of its Edge must be Ground to a Bevil so as to make an Angle of about 12 Degrees with the left side of it and afterwards set with the Whetstone as the Irons of Planes c. § 26. The Use of the Saw in general In my former Exercises I did not teach you how to chuse the Tools a Smith was to use Because it is a Smith's office to make them And because in those Exercises I treated of making Iron work and Steel work in general and the making and excellency of some Tools in particular which might serve as a general Notion for the knowledge of all Smith's Workmanship especially to those that should concern themselves with Smithing But to those that shall concern themselves with Joinery and not with Smithing It will be necessary that I teach them how to chuse their Tools that are made by Smiths that they may use them with more ease and delight and make both quicker and neater work with them All sorts of Saws for Joyner's use are to be sold in most Iron-monger's shops but especially in Foster-lane London chuse those that are made of Steel for some are made of Iron for Steel of it self is harder and stronger than Iron You may know the Steel Saws from Iron Saws thus The Steel Saws are generally ground bright and smooth and are the thickness of the Blade considered stronger than Iron Saws But the Iron Saws are only Hammer-hardned and therefore if they could be so hard yet they cannot be so smooth as if the irregularities of the Hammer were well taken off with the Grindstone See it be free from flaws and very well Hammered and smoothly Ground that is evenly Ground you may know if it be well Hammered by the stiff bending of it and if it be well Ground that is evenly Ground it will not bend in one part of it more than in another for if it do it is a sign that part where it bends most is either too much Ground a-way or too thin Forged in that place But if it bend into a regular bow all the way and be stiff the Blade is good It cannot be too stiff because they are but Hammer-hardned and therefore often bow when they fall under unskilful hands but never break unless they have been often bowed in that place The edge whereon the Teeth are is always made thicker than the back because the back follows the Edge and if the Edge should not make a pretty wide Kerf if the back do not strike in the Kerf yet by never so little irregular bearing or twisting of the hand awry it might so stop as to bow the Saw and as I said before with often bowing it will break at last When Workmen light of a good Blade thus qualified they matter not much whether rhe Teeth be sharp or deep or set to their mind for to make them so is a Task they take to themselves And thus they perform it They wedge the blade of the Saw hard into the Whetting-Block marked P. in
is generally used in all Alterations and old work § 5. Of the Draw-knife and its use THe Draw-knife described Plate 8. E. is seldom used about House-building but for the making of some sorts of Houshold-stuff as the Legs of Crickets the Rounds of Ladders the Rails to lay Cheese or Bacon on c. When they use it they set one end of their work against their Breast and the other end against their Work bench or some hollow angle that may keep it from slipping and so pressing the work a little hard with their Breast against the Bench to keep it steddy in its position they with the Handles of the Draw-knife in both their hands enter the edge of the Draw-knife into the work and draw Chips almost the length of their work and so smoothen it quickly § 6. Of Hook-Pins and their use THe Hook-Pin is described Plate 8. F. a the Pin b the Hook c the Head Its office is to pin the Frame of a Floor or Frame of a Roof together whilst it is framing or whilst it is fitting into its position They have many of these Hook-Pins to drive into the several angles of the Frame These they drive into the Pin-holes through the Mortesses and Tennants and being made taper do with a Hammer striking on the bottom of it knock it out again or they most commonly strike under the Hook and so knock it out Then if the Frame lie in its place they pin it up with wooden Pins § 7. Of the Level and its use THe Level described Plate 8. G. a a the Level b the Plumbet c the Plumb-line d d the Perpendicular mark'd from the top to the bottom of the Board The Level is from two to ten foot long that it may reach over a considerable length of the Work If the Plumb-line hang just upon the Perpendicular d d when the Level is set flat down upon the work the work is Level But if it hang on either side the Perpendicular the Floor or Work must be raised on that side till the Plumb-line hang exactly upon the Perpendicular § 8. Of the Plumb-line and its use THe Plumb-line is described Plate 8. H. a the Line Rowl b the Line It is used to try the upright standing of Posts or other work that is to stand perpendicular to the Ground Plot and then they draw off so much Line as is necessary and fasten the rest of the Line there upon the Line Rowl with a Slip-knot that no more Line turn off They hold the end of the Line between their Finger and Thumb half the Diameter of the Line Rowl off one corner of the Post or Work and if the Line and Corner of the Post be parallel to each other the Post is upright But if the Post be not parallel to the Line but its bottom stands more than half the Diameter of the Line Rowl from the Line the Post hangs so much over the bottom of the Post on that side the Line bears off and must be forced backwards till the side of the Post and the Line become parallel to each other But if the bottom of the corner of the Post stands out from the top of the Line the Post must be forced forwards to comply with the Line § 9. Of the Hammer and its use THe Hammer is described Plate 8. I. a the Face b the Claw c c the Pen at the return sides of the Claw This Tool was forgot to be described in Joynery though they use Hammers too and therefore I bring it in here It s chief use is for driving Nails into work and drawing Nails out of work There is required a pretty skill in driving a Nail sor if when you set the point of a Nail you be not curious in observing to strike the flat face of the Hammer perpendiculary down upon the Perpendicular of the Shank the Nail unless it have good entrance will start aside or bow or break and then you will be forced to draw it out again with the Claw of the Hammer Therefore you may see a reason when you buy a Hammer to chuse one with a true flat Face A little trick is sometimes used among some that would be thought cunning Carpenters privately to touch the head of the Nail with a little Ear-wax and then lay a wager with a stranger to the Trick that he shall not drive that Nail up to the Head with so many blows The stranger thinks he shall assuredly win but does assuredly lose for the Hammer no sooner touches the Head of the Nail but instead of entring the wood it flies away notwithstanding his utmost care in striking it down-right § 10. Of the Commander and its use THe Commander is described Plate 8. K. It is indeed but a very great wooden Mallet with an Handle about three foot long to use in both the hands It is used to knock on the Corners of Framed work to set them into their position It is also used to drive small wooden Piles into the ground c. or where greater Engines may be spared § 11. Of the Crow and its use THe Crow is described in Plate 8. L. a the Shank bb the Claws c the Pike-end It is used as a Lever to to sift up the ends of great heavy Timber when either a Bauk or a Rowler is to be laid under it and then they thrust the Claws between the Ground and the Timber and laying a Bauk or some such stuff behind the Crow they draw the other end of the Shank backwards and so raise the Timber § 12. Of the Drug and its use THe Drug described Plate 9. A. is made somewhat like a low narrow Carr. It is used for the carriage of Timber and then is drawn by the Handle aa by two or more men according as the weight of the Timber may require There are also some Engines used in Carpentry for the management of their heavy Timber and hard Labour viz. the Jack the Crab to which belongs Pullies and Tackle c. Wedges Rowlers great Screws c. But I shall give you an account of them when I come to the explanation of Terms at the latter end of Carpentry § 13. Of the Ten-foot Rod and thereby to measure and describe the Ground-plot WE shall begin therefore to measure the Ground-plot to which Carpenters use a Ten-Foot Rod for expedition which is a Rod about an Inch square and ten foot long being divided into ten equal parts each part containing one foot even as the Two-foot Rule described in Exercise 6. § 13. is divided into 24 equal parts and their Sub-divisions With this Rod they measure the length and breadth of the Ground-plot into Feet and if there be odd Inches they measure them with the Two-foot Rule Their measure they note down upon a piece of paper and having considered the situation of the Sides East West North and South they draw on Paper their several Sides accordingly by a small Scale either elected or
and Stair-case aaaa Joysts § 15. Of Framing for the Floors THe four Plates AB AN NO and BO lying on the Foundation are called Ground-plates They are to be of good Oak and for this size of Building about 8 Inches broad and 6 Inches deep They are to be framed into one another with Tennants and Mortesses The longer Ground-plates AN and BO are commonly tennanted into the Front and Rear Ground-plates AB and NO and into these two sides-Ground-plates are Mortesses made for the Tennants at the ends of the Joysts to be fitted somewhat loosly in at about 10 Inches distance from one another as in the Draft These Ground plates are to be bor'd with an Inch and half Augur and well pinned into one another with round Oaken Pins made tapering towards the point and so strong that with the hard blows of a Mallet they may drive stiff into the Augre-hole and keep the Tennant firmly in the Mortess The manner of making a Tennant and Mortess is taught in Exercise 5. § 17. But because the Stuff Carpenters work upon is generally heavy Timber and consequently not so easily mannaged as the light Stuff Joyners work upon therefore they do not at first pin their Tennants into their Mortesses with wooden pins lest they should lie out of square or any other intended Position but laying a Block or some other piece of Timber under the corner of the Frame-work to bear it hollow off the Foundation or what ever else it lies upon they drive Hook Pins described Plate 8. § 6. into the four Augre-holes in the corners of the Ground-plates and one by one fit the Plates either to a square or any other intended Position and when it is so fitted they draw out their Hook Pins and drive in the Wooden Pins as aforesaid and taking away the wooden Blocks one by one from under the corners of the Frame they let it fall into its place But before they pin up the Frame of Ground-plates they must fit in the Summer marked PP and the Girders QQ and all the Joysts marked aaaa c. and the Trimmers for the Stair-case and Chilmney way marked bb and the binding Joysts marked cc for else you cannot get their Tennants into their respective Mortess holes But they do I say fit all these in while the frame of Ground-plates lies loose and may corner by corner be opened to let the respective Tennants into their respective Mortesses which when all is done they frame the Raising-plates just as the Ground-plates are framed and then frame the Roof into the Raising-plates with Beams Joysts c. The Summer is in this Ground-plate placed at 25 foot distance from the Front and is to be of the same Scantlin the principal Plates are of for Reasons as shall be shewn hereafter and the Girders are also to be of the same Scantlins the Summers and Ground-Plates are of though according to the nice Rules of Architecture the Back-Girder need not be so strong as the Front-Girder because it Bears but at 14 foot length and the Front-Girder Bears at 24 foot length yet Carpenters for uniformity generally make them so unless they build an House by the great and are agreed for the Sum of Money c. The Joysts Bearing at 8 Foot as here they do are to be 7 Inches deep and 3 Inches Broad The Trimmers and Trimming Joysts are 5 Inches broad and 7 Inches deep and these Joysts Trimmers and Trimming-Joysts are all to be pinned into their respected Mortesses and then its flatness try'd with the Level as was taught § 7. § 16. Of setting up the Carcass Though the Ground-plates Girders c. be part of the Carcass yet I thought fit in the last Section they should be laid before I treated of the superstructure which I shall now handle The four Corner Posts called the Principal Posts marked AA should be each of one piece so long as to reach up to the Beam of the Roof or Raising-Plate and of the same Scantlin the Ground Plates are of viz. 8 Inches broad and 6 Inches thick and set with one of its narrowest sides towards the Front It s lower end is to be Tennanted and let it into a Mortess made near the corner of the Ground-Plate Frame and its upper end hath also a Tennant on it to fit into a Mortess made in the Beam of the Roof or Raising-piece At the heighth of the first Story in this Principal Post must be made two Mortesses one to receive the Tennant at the end of the Bressummer that lies in the Front and the other to entertain the Tennant at the end of the Bressummer that lies in the Return-side Two such Mortesses must also be made in this Principal Post at the height of the second Story to receive the Tennant at the ends of the Bressummers for that Story Though I have spoken singularly of one Principal Post yet as you work this you must work all four Principal Posts and then set them plumb upright which you must try with a plumb-Plumb-line described in Plate 8 § Having erected the Principal Posts upright you must enter the Tennants of the Bressummers into their proper Mortesses and with a Nail or two about a single Ten or adouble Ten tack one end of a deal Board or some other like piece of stuff to the Bressummer and the other end to the fram'd work of the Floor to keep the Principal Posts upright and in their places Then set up the several Posts between the Principal Posts but these Posts must be Tennanted at each end because they are to be no longer than to reach from Story to Story or from Entertise to Entertise and are to be framed into the upper and under Bressummer If the Entertises be not long enough they set up a Principal Post between two or three lengths to reach from the Ground-plate up to the Raising-plates It is to be remembred that the Bressummers and Girders are laid flat upon one of their broadest sides with their two narrowest sides perpendicular to the Ground-Plot but the Joysts are to be laid contrary for they are framed so as to lie with one of their narrowest sides upwards with there two broadest sides perpendicular to the Ground-Plot The reason is because the Stuff of the Bressummers and Girders are less weakned by cutting the Mortesses in them in this position than in the other position for as the Tennants for those Mortesses are cut between the top and bottom sides and the flat of the Tennants are no broader than the flat of the narrowest side of the Joysts so the Mortesses they are to fit into need be no broader than the breadth of the Tennant and the Tennants are not to be above an inch thick and consequently the Mortesses are to be made with an Inch Mortess-Chissel as was shewn Numb 5. § 17. for great care must be taken that the Bressummers and Girders be not weakned more than needs lest the whole Floor dance These Tennants are
Architecture considers the best forming of all Members in a Building for the capacity of the Ground-Plot and the Convenience of the intended Inhabitant but Carpenters as Carpenters only work by directions prescribed by the Architect These therefore are the common Rules that these sorts of Stairs and indeed all others with carving according to the Profile or Ground-plot of the Stairs are made by But those that will see many Inventions may consult Books of Architecture c. § 18. Of Flooring of Rooms THough Carpenters never Floor the Rooms till the Carcass is set up and also inclosed by the Plaisterer lest weather should wrong the Flooring yet they generally Rough-plane their Boards for Flooring before they begin any thing else about the Building that they may set them by to season which thus they do They lean them one by one on end aslant with the edge of the Board against a Bauk somewhat above the height of half the length of the Board and set another Board in the same posture on the other side the Bauk so that above the Bauk they cross one another then on the first side they set another Board in that posture and on the second side another till the whole number of Boards are set an end being set in this posture there remains the thickness of a Board between every Board all the length but just where they cross one another for the Air to pass through to dry and shrink them against they have occasion to use them But they set them under some covered Shed that the Rain or Sun comes not at them for if the Rain wet them instead of shrinking them it will smell them or if the Sun shine fiercely upon them it will dry them so fast that the Boards will Tear or Shake which is in Vulgar English Split or Crack They have another way to dry and season them by laying them flat upon three or four Bauks each Board about the breadth of a Board asunder the whole length of the Bauks Then they lay another Lay of Boards athwart upon them each board also the breadth of a Board asunder then another Lay athwart the last till all are thus laid so that in this position they also lie hollow for the Air to play between them Thus then The Boards being Rough-plain'd and Season'd They try one side slat as by Numb 6. § 31. and both the edges straight as if they were to shoot a Joint as by Numb 4. § 4. and cut the Boards to an exact length because if the Boards are not long enough to reach athwart the whole Room the ends may all lie in a straight Line that the straight ends of other Boards laid against them may make the truer Joint and this they call a Beaking Joint But before they lay them upon the Floor they try with the Level described § 7. the flatness of the whole Frame of Flooring again lest any part of it should be Cast since it was first framed together and if any part of the Floor lie too high they with the Adz if the eminency be large take it off as was shewed § 2. Or if it be small with the Jack-Plain in Numb 4. § 2. till it lie level with the rest of the Floor But if any part of the Floor prove hollow they lay a Chip or some such thing upon that hollow place to bare up the Board before they nail it down All this being done they chuse a Board of the commonest thickness of the whole Pile for the first Board and lay it close again one side of the Room athwart the Joysts and so nail it firmly down with two Brads into every Joyst it crosses each Brad about an Inch or an Inch and a half within the edge of the Board If they should lay more a than ordinary thick or thin Board at the first they would have a greater number of Boards to work to a Level than they need because all the rest of the Boards must be equalized in thickness to the first Then they lay a second Board close to the first But before they nail it down they again try how its sides agrees with the side of the first and also how its thickness agrees with the first Board If any part of its edge lie hollow off the edge of the first Board they shoot off so much of the length of the Board from that hollowness towards either end till it comply and make a close Joint with the first But if the edge swell in any place they plane of that swelling till it comply as aforesaid If the second Board prove thicker than the first then with the Adz as aforesaid they hew away the under side of that Board most commonly cross the Grain lest with the Grain the edge of the Adz should slip too deep into the Board in every part of it that shall bare upon a Joyst and so sink it to a flat superficies to comply with the first Board If the Board be too thin they underlay that Board upon every Joyst with a Chip c. And as this second Board is laid so are the other Boards laid if they be well assured the Boards are dry and will not shrink but if they doubt the driness of the Boards they sometimes do or should take a little more pains for after they have nailed down the first Board they will measure the breadth of two other Boards laying them by the side of the first But yet they will not allow them their full Room to lie in but after there edges are true shot in a straight line they will pinch them off about half a quarter of an Inch room more or less according as they guess at the well-seasonedness of the Boards by nailing down the fourth Board nearer to the first Board by half a quarter of an Inch more or less then the breadth of both Boards are And though it be afterwards somewhat hard to get these two Boards into that narrow room viz. between the first and fourth Board yet they help themselves thus The under-edge of these Boards that are to join to each other they Bevel somewhat away and then the first and fourth Board being fast nailed down as aforesaid they set the outer edges of these two Boards again the two nailed Boards letting the inner edges of the two loose Boards meet and make an Angle perpendicular to the Floor Then with two or three Men jumping all at once that Angle these two Boards with this force and reiterated jumbs by degrees press flat down into the superficies of the Floor or else with Forcing Pins and Wedges force them together and then with Brads they nail them down as they did the first Board Thus afterwards they nail down a seventh Board as they did the fourth and then fit in the fifth and sixth Boards as they did the second and third Boards And so on nailing down every third Board and forcing two others between it and the last nailed
Board till the whole Floor be boarded But if these Boards are not long enough as I hinted before to reach through the whole Room they examine how true the ends lie in a straight line with one another by applying the edge of the Two-foot Rule to the ends and where the ends of any Boards keep of the edge of the Two-foot Rule from complying with the whole range of ends they with the Chissel and Mallet cut off that irregularity holding and guiding the Chissel so that it may rather cut away more of the bottom than top of the Board that so the Boards joined to the ends of the first laid Boards may make on the Superficies of the Floor the finer and truer Joint Having thus Boarded the whole Room notwithstanding they used their best diligence to do it exactly yet may the edges of some Boards lie somewhat higher than the Board it lies next to therefore they peruse the whole Floor and wherethey find any irregularities they plane them off with the Plane c. § 19. The Hanging of Doors Windows c. THe Floors being Boarded the next work is to Hang the Doors in which though there be little difficulty yet is there much care to be taking that the Door open and shut well If the Door have a Door-Case as Chamber-Doors and Closet-Doors commonly have the Jaums of the Door-Case must stand exactly perpendicular which you must try by the Plumb-line as by § 8. and the Head of the Door-Case or Entertise must be fitted exactly square to the Jaums as you where taught Numb 3. § 17 18 19. and the Angles of the Door must be made exactly square and the Rabbets of the Door to fit exactly into the Rabbets of the Door-Case But yet they commonly make the Door about one quarter of an Inch shorter than the insides of the Jaums of the Door-Case lest if the Boards of the Floor chance to swell within the sweep of the Door the bottom of the Door should drag upon the Floor They consider what sort of Hindges are properest for the Door they are to Hang. When they have a Street-door which commonly is to take off and lift on they use Hooks and Hindges In a Battend-door Back-door or other Battend-door or Shop-windows they use Cross-Garnets If a Framed Door Side Hinges And for Cup-board Doors and such like Duf-Tails See the description of these Hindges in Numb 1. Fig. 1. 5 6. But what sort of Hindges soever they use they have care to provide them of a strength proportionable to the size and weight of the Door they hang with them Well-made Hindges I have described Numb 1. fol. 20. Whither to avoid repetition I refer you If they hand a Street-door which is commonly about six foot high they first drive the Hooks into the Door-Post by entering the Post first with an Augure But the Bit of the Augure must be less than the Shank of the Hook and the hole boared not so long because the Shank of the Hook must be strongly forced into the Augure-hole and should the Augure-hole be too wide the Shank would be loose in it and not stick strong enough in it Therefore if the Shank be an Inch square an half-Inch-Augure is big enough to bore that hole with because it will then endure the heavier blows of an Hammer to drive it so far as it must go and the stronger it is forced in the faster the Hook sticks But yet they are carful not to split the Door-Post These Hooks are commonly drove in about Fifteen Inches and an half above the Ground-sell and as much below the top of the Door It is or should be their care to chuse the Pin of the lower Hook about a quarter of an Inch longer than that they use for the upper Hook or else to make it so because these Doors are commonly un-weildy to lift off and on especially to lift both the Hindges on both the Hooks at once Therefore when the lower Hindge is lifted on the lower Hook if the Door be then lift-perpendicularly upright so high as the under side of the upper Hindge may just reach the top of the upper Hook you may the easier slip the Eye of the upper Hindge upon the Hook whereas if the lower Hook be either shorter or just no longer than the other instead of lifting it readily upon the upper Hook you may lift it off the lower Hook and so begin the labour again Having drove in the Hooks they set the Rabbits of the Door within the Rabbits of the Door-Post and underlay the bottom of the Door with a Chip or two about half a quarter of an Inch thick to raise the Door that it drag not Then they put the Eyes of the Hindges over the Pins of the Hooks and placing the Tail piece of the Hindges parallel to the bottom and top of the Door they so nail them upon This is the Rule they generally observe for Hanging Doors Shop-windows c. Only sometimes instead of Nailing the Hindges upon the Door they Rivet them on for more strength And then after they have fitted the Door or Window into its Rabbits and laid the Hindges in there proper place and position as aforesaid they make marks in the Nail-holes of the Hindge with the point of their Compasses upon the Door and at those marks they Pierce holes with a Piercer-Bit that fits the shank of the Rivet then they put the shank of the Rivet through the holes made in the Door yet so that the Head of the Rivet be on the outside of the Door and they also put the end of the Shank into the Nail-hole of the Hindge and so whilst another man holds the head of the Hatchet against the Head of the Rivet they with the Pen of their Hammer batter and spread the flat end of the Shank over the Hole as was shewn Numb 2. fol. 24. 25. The Titles of some Books of Architecture SEbastion Seirlio in Folio Hans Bloom's Five Collumns Folio Vignola in Folio Vignola Or the Compleat Architect in Octavo Scamotzi Quarto Palladio Quarto Sir Henry Wotton's Elements of Architecture Quarto These Books are all Printed in English But there are many others extant in several other Languages of which Vitruvius is the chief For from his Book the rest are generally derived as Philip Le Orm Ditterlin Marlois and many others which being difficult to be had among Book-sellers and these sufficient for information I shall omit till another opportunity An Explanation of Terms used in Carpentry A. ADz Plate 8. B § 2. Arch Any work wrought Circular as the top part of some Window-frames the top of some great Gates the Roof of Vaults c. Architrave See Numb 6. Plate 6. 1. and Plate 6. A. § 1. Ax Numb 7. Plate 8. A. B. BAck or Hip-molding The backward Hips or Valley-Rafters in the way of an Angle for the back part of a Building Bannister Numb 8. Plate 11. g g g. Base is commonly the Bottom
Turnners have another Rest called the Side-Rest This they use when they Turn the flats sides of Boards because the flat sides of Boards standing athwart the Pikes and this Rest standing also athwart the Pikes they can the more conveniently rest their Tool upon it It is marked e in plate 13 and is in the Plate disjunct from the Lathe as well because it and the Common Rest cannot both together be exprest in Picture as also because it is made to take off and put on as occasion requires The Rest is marked a and is a piece of an Oaken plank or Elm plank about two Inches thick and stands so high above the Cheeks of the Lathe as the points of the Pikes do or sometimes a little higher Its Breadth is about a Foot or more or less as the Work requires or the Workman fancies The Bottom of it is firmly nailed to one side of a Quarter of Oak or Elm of about three Inches square and two Foot or two Foot and an half long close to one end as you see in the Figure at b so as the Rest stand upright to the piece of Quartet This piece of Quarter is as a Tennant to slide into a square Iron Collar marked e This square Iron Collar is made so long as to reach through the depth of the Cheeks of the Lathe and to receive the Quarter or Tennant thrust through it above the Cheeks and a Wedge under the Cheeks marked d which Wedge when stiff knock'd up draws the Tennant strong and firmly down to the Cheeks and consequently keeps the Side-rest steddy on any part of the Cheeks according as you slide the Collar forwards or backwards towards either Pike or as you thrust the Rest nearer or farther to and from the Pikes Some Turners for some Work instead of a plank for this Rest fasten to one end of the Quarter or Tennant a long Iron with a round Cilindrick Socket in it as at the Figure marked f in Plate 13 a is the Socket of about an Inch or an Inch and an half Diameter to reach within two or three Inches as high as the Pikes and into this Socket they put a long round Iron Shank as in Figure g of the same Plate a is the Shank and at the top of this Shank is made the Rest marked b. This Shank I say slips easily into the Socket that it may be raised or let down as occasion requires and by the help of a Screw through the Socket at e may be fastned at that length The Rest by reason of its Round Shank may be also turned with its upper edge more or less oblique or athwart the Work or else parallel to the Work according as the purpose may require Near one end of the Rest is fitted and fastned a piece of Wood about an Inch square and ten or twelve Inches long This piece of wood is fitted stiff into a square Hole or Mortess made in the Puppet a little above the Shoulder for the Rest to set the Rest to any distance from the Pikes which with the ends of wooden Screws entred into wooden Nuts on the further side of the Puppet and coming through against the Rest keeps the Rest from being thrust nearer to the work when the Workman is working ¶ 8. Of the Treddle and Cross-Treddle ABout the middle between the ends is placed a wooden Treddle about two Inches and an half broad an Inch thick and three Foot long and sometimes three and an half to four Foot long The hinder end of it is fastned to the Floor with a piece of Leather sometimes a piece of the Upper-leather of an old Shoe which piece of Leather is nailed to the under-side of the hinder end of the Treddle so as to leave Leather enough beyond the end of the Treddle to nail down upon the Floor which Treddle being thus nailed down will move upwards as the Spring of the Pole draws up the String the String being also fastned to the fore-end of the Treddle The hinder end of the Treddle is nailed down about a Foot or a Foot and an half behind the Lathe and about the middle between both the Legs so that the fore-end of the Treddle reaches beyond the fore-side of the Lathe about a Foot and an half or two Foot And note that the farther the Fore-end of the Treddle reaches out beyond the Fore-side of the Lathe the greater will the sweep of the Fore-end of the Treddle be and consequently it will draw the more String down and the more String comes down at one Tread the more Revolutions of the Work is made at one Tread and therefore it makes the greater riddance of the Work But then again if the Fore-end of the Treddle reach too far before the Fore-side of the Lathe it may draw the end of the Pole so low as to break it and it will also be the harder to Tread down because the power commanding which is the weight of the Tread lies so far from the weight to be commanded which is the strength of the Pole augmented by the distance that the end of the Treddle hath from the Work in the Lathe so that you may see that the nearer the Fore-end of the Treddle lies to the Perpendicular of the Work in the Lathe the easier the Tread will be And some Turners that Turn altogether Small Work have the Fore-end of the Treddle placed just under their work so that their String works between the Cheeks of the Lathe But then the Sweep of the Treddle being so small the Pole draws up but a small length of String and consequently makes the fewer Revolutions of the Work in one Tread which hinders the riddance of the Work unless with every Spring of the Pole they should lift their Treading Leg so high as to tire it quickly with binging it down again after it is raised to so uncommodious a position This Tredle hath a square Notch in the middle of the further end about an Inch and an half wide and two Inches long that the end of the String may be wound either off or on the Wood on either side the Notch to lengthen or shorten the String as the different Diameters of the Work shall require About the middle of the Treddle is fixed a round Iron Pin about half an Inch in Diameter so as to stand upright about an Inch and an half or two Inches long above the Treddle And under the Cheeks is also fixed down the Cross-Treddle which is such another piece of Wood as the Treddle is but longer or shorter according to the length of the Lathe And in the middle of the Breadth of the Cross-Treddle is made several holes all a-row to receive the Iron Pin set upright in the Treddle These holes are commonly boared about two or three Inches assunder that the Pin or the Treddle may be put into any one of them according as the String is to be placed nearer to or further off either end of the
Lathe ¶ 9. Of the Pole THE Pole is commonly made of a Fir-pole and is longer or shorter or bigger or smaller according to the weight of the Work the Workman designs to Turn For the thicker the Pole is the harder must the Tread be to bring it down and for this reason if the Pole prove too strong for their common or continued Work they will weaken it by cutting away with a Draw-knife described Numb 7. Plate 8. E and § 5. part of the substance off the upper and under sides of the Pole The thick end of this Pole is nailed or indeed rather pinned up to some Girder or other Timber in the Ceiling of the Room with one single Nail or a Pin that the Pole may move upon that Nail or Pin as on a Center and its thin end pass from one Puppet to the other as the Work may require And at about a Foot distance or more is also nailed up to some Joysts or other Timbers of the Ceiling two Cheeks of a convenient strength and at the lower end of these two Cheeks is nailed a Quarter or Batten to bear the Pole though the weight of a Tread be added to it as you may see at n n in Plate 12. ¶ 10. Of the Side-Rest BUt it sometimes happens that the Ceiling of the Work-room is not high enough for the Pole to play upwards and downwards Therefore in such case they place the thin end of the Pole at some considerable distance off the Lathe either before or behind it and so make the Spring of the Pole Horizantal towards the Lathe conveying and guiding the String from the Pole to the Work by throwing it over a Rowler moving on two Iron Center-pins fastned at both ends and placed parallel to the Cheeks of the Lathe above the Work as high as they can and thus every Tread draws the Rowler about But should the Rowler not move about upon those Iron Pins the String every Tread would both cut a Groove in the Ruler and fret it self more or less upon the Rowler ¶ 11. Of the Bow SOme Turners that work light Work such as Cane-Heads Ink-horns c. for which they need scarce remove the Puppets off their Lathe use a Common Bow such as Archers use The middle of this Bow they fasten over Head with its String Horizontally downwards and in the middle of that String they fasten another String perpendicularly downwards whos 's other end they fasten to the Treddle and the String wound round their Work brings it about ¶ 12. Of the Great Wheel BUt when Turners work Heavy Work such as the Pole and Tread will not command they use the Great Wheel This Wheel is so commonly known that I shall need give you no other description of it than the Figure it self which you may see in Plate 14. a. It is turned about with one and sometimes with two Iron Handles according as the weight of the Work may require It s String hath both its ends strong and neatly fastned together not with a Knot but lapt over one another about three Inches in length and so is firmly whipt about with small Gut that it may the easier pass over the narrow Groove in the edge of the Rowler This String is laid in the Groove made on the edge of the Wheel and also in the Groove of the Work But before it is laid upon both one part of the String is lapt over and crosses the other and the String receives the Form of a Figure of 8 only one of its Bows or Circles becomes no bigger than the Groove in the Work and the other as big as the Groove in the Wheel Then the whole Frame wherein the Wheel is fixed is removed farther off the Lathe that the String may draw tight upon the Work The reason why the String thus crosses it self is because it will touch and gird more upon the Groove of the Work and consequently as was said before ¶ 14. will the better command the Work about The manner of Turning this Wheel is as the manner of Turning other Wheels with Handles Besides the commanding Heavy Work about the Wheel rids Work faster off than the Pole can do because the springing up of the Pole makes an intermission in the running about of the Work but with the Wheel the Work runs always the same way so that the Tool need never be off it unless it be to examine the Work as it is doing When the Wheel is used its Edge stands athwart the Cheeks of the Lathe ¶ 13. Of the Treddle-Wheel THis is a Wheel made of a round Board of about two Foot and an half Diameter conveniently to stand under the Cheeks of the Lathe It also hath a Groove on its Edge for the String to run in it hath an Iron Axis with a Crook or Cranck at one end And on this Crook is slipt the Noose of a Leather T·hong which having its other end fastned to a Treddle does by keeping exact time in Treads carry it swiftly about without intermission But the length of the Thong must be so fitted that when the Wheel stands still and the Crook at the end of the Axis hangs downwards the end of the Treddle to which the Thong is fastned may hang about two or three Inches off the Ground For then giving the Wheel a small turn with the Hand till the Crook rises to the highest and passes a little beyond it if just then I say the Workman gives a quick Tread tpon the Treddle to bring the Crook down again with a jerk that Tread will set it in a motion for several revolutions and then if he observes to make his next Tread just when the Crook comes about again to the same position it will continue the motion and cause of the motion and and keep the Wheel always running the same way if he punctually times his Treads The Treddle Wheel is used for small work only as not having strength enough to carry heavy Work about such as Cane-Heads Small Boxes c. and it is fitted below the Cheeks between the Puppets as the Bow is above Besides these Inventions to carry about the Work in the Lathe there are many more as with a great Iron Wheel having Teeth on its edge which Teeth are to fall into an Iron Nut upon an Iron Axis pitcht upon the Pikes of the Puppets of the Lathe or fitted into Collars c. Also for very Heavy Work as Guns Great Mortars c. Wheels turn'd with Wind Water or Horses to carry the Work about Of which more in their proper places ¶ 14. Of the String UPon the thin end of the Pole is wound a considerable Bundle of String That as a Mandrel requires to be bigger than ordinary or the Work heavier they may unwind so much of the String as will compass the Mandrel twice or if the Work be heavy thrice the easier to carry it about This String is made of the Guts of Beasts most commonly of
you must alter them You may know when they are well pitcht by treading softly upon your Treddle and holding your Finger steddy on the Rest direct the point of it pretty close to the Work For if in a Revolution of your Work its Outside keeps it an equal distance from the end of your Finger you may conclude your Work is well pitcht But if you find one side of your Work comes nearer your Finger than the other side you must with your Flat Chissel or Gouge or what is nearest at hand knock softly or hard upon that side that comes nearest to your Finger till you have forc'd the Pikes into the true Centers at the end of your Work and then you may boldly screw it hard up But you must be sure to screw it hard up because it is Soft Wood you purpose to work upon and the strength of the Pole may endanger the drawing or removing the Centers if the Pikes have not good hold of them Having found your Centers take your Work again off the Pikes and wind the String once or twice more about your Work that your String as I said in Numb 10. § 1. when I wrote of the String may the better command it and then wind off or on more String at the end of your Pole or end of your Treddle or both if your Work require it till the Pole draws the Treddle up a little above half the length of the Legs of the Lathe For about the height your Leg may without sudden trying command the Pole down again But before you begin to work upon the Stuff I shall inform you how to Tread the Treddle In which you may observe this General Rule That the nearer the Fore-end of the Treddle you Tread the easier you bring down the Pole But then the Pole in its Spring rases your Leg the higher and may draw the upper side of your Thigh against the underside of the Cheek of the Lathe and with reiterated Risings Gawl and also tire your Thigh Place therefore your Foot steddy upon the Treddle so far forward as you can to avoid the Poles Rising from drawing your Thigh against the underside of the Lathe and Tread the Treddle nimbly down but not quite so low as to knock against the Floor Then abate the weight of your Tread and let the Pole draw the Treddle up but still keep your Foot steddy and lightly Bearing upon the Treddle For then your succeeding Treads will prove easier to your Leg and Thigh and you will with your Foot the better and quicker command the Treddle Then Tread again nimbly down as before and keep this Train of Treading till your Work be finish'd or that you may have occasion to stop and examine how rightly you proceed In all small Work the Tread is lightly and nimbly performed but in large and heavy Work the Tread comes slow and heavily down This being premised you may begin with your Gouge Lay the Round side of it upon the Rest and take the Handle of it in your Right hand and lay the Fore and Middle Fingers of your Left Hand upon the Hollow of the Gouge near the Work mounting the Edge about a quarter of an Inch above the Axis of your Work and sinking your Right hand a little for in this position the Gouge cuts best And thus cut down on your Work near one end a Groove for your String to run in The Groove may be about an Inch or an Inch and an half long But it matters not much what depth Then slip your String into the Groove and if you find the String will not slip easily you may put your Foot under the Treddle and lift it a little up that the String when no weight is hanged to it may slide the easier into the Groove And by the way you may take notice that the deeper you cut down the Groove the oftner will your Work come about every Tread because the String that comes down every Tread measure a small Circumference oftner than it does a greater Circumference But then the Work is not so strongly carried about because it hath a less portion of the String to command it This I hint not that in this our small proposed Pattern it is very considerable For if you only cut the Groove down but so low as there may be a Shoulder at the end and another against the Work to keep the String from slipping out of the Groove it will be sufficient But in heavy Work this Groove ought to be cut with discretion Now come to the Forming of your Work and hold your Gouge as you were taught before but somewhat lightly against your Work beginning at one end and sliding your Gouge gradually to the other cutting with its Edge all the way you go and bearing somewhat stiff against the Work every Tread you make on the Treddle And withdrawing it again a little lightly from the Work every Spring of the Pole And thus by Use you must habituate your self to let the Edge of your Tool bear upon the Work when the Pole and Treddle comes down and to draw it back just off the Work as the Pole and Treddle goes up And thus you must continue till you have rough-wrought all your work from end to end If you have not at first brought your Work clean that is if you have not gone deep enough with your Gouge to take off all the Risings of the Stuff the Draw-knife left even with the smallest part of your Work you must in like manner as before work it over again But you must have a special Care you take not too much Stuff away on any part of the whole Work For this proposed Pattern being a Cilinder if you take but a small matter too much away from any part and make it smaller than your given measure there the whole Work will be spoiled as being smaller than the proposed Diameter which to know you may by opening the Points of your Callippers to two Inches on your Rule the proposed Diameter of your Cilinder try if the Points at that distance will just slip over the deepest Grooves of your Work for we will not suppose that the Grooves are of an equal depth with the Rough-working of the Gouge without straining the Joint for then your Work is just sizeable If not work over again as before c. But we will now suppose you have not taken too much away but have made a due process with your Gouge Therefore now proceed and use a Flat Chissel about an Inch and an half broad to take off the Irregularities the Gouge left Take the Handle of it in your Right Hand as you did the Gouge and clasping the Blade of it in your Left Hand lean it steddy upon the Rest holding the Edge a little assant over the Work so as a Corner of the thin side of the Chissel may bear upon the Rest and that the Flat side of the Chissel may make a small Angle with
of a Bevil streigth on the line K L bring the Tongue to touch the under side of the first Course of the Scheam then take up the Bevil and set that Bevil line upon the Sommering Mould of the Scheam which Bevil line serves for each Course in the Scheam but you must take the Bevil of each Course in the Hanse and set them upon your Sommering Mould by themselves and Number them with 1 2 3 4 c. because each Course varies Thus having made your Sommering Moulds in the next place you must make the Moulds for the length of your Stretchers and for the breadth of the Headers and the Closiers a piece of Wainscot 7 Inches long and 3 Inches and an half broad will serve for the length of the Stretchers and the breadth of the Headers the Closiers will be 1 Inch and 3 4 broad So the Closier will be half the breadth of the Header and the Header half the length of the Stretcher which will look well It remains now to speak something to the other part of the Arch to wit A D whose Courses both in Hanse and Scheam run alike upon the Ellipsis Lines and seem of one bigness although perhaps there may be some small matter of difference by reason I have not divided the Courses to this Figure from a right Angle but every Course from the Angle which it makes with the Ellipsis which I chose rather to do that so the Bevil of one Course might not seem to run more upon the Ellipsis than the Bevil of another and the difference of the thicknesses being so inconsiderate is not discerned Having described both the Ellipsis lines A D E G divide each of them into a like number of equal parts always remembring to make each Division on the upper Ellipsis line no greater than the thickness of the Brick will contain when it is wrought then through each Division in both the Ellipses draw streight lines continuing them 4 or 5 Inches above the upper Ellipsis Line and as much below the Lower Ellipsis Line then having provided some thin Sheets of fine Pastboard about 20 Inches square cutting one edge streight take one sheet and lay the streight edge even upon the line A E so that it may cover both the Ellipsis lines and being cut to advantage it may cover 8 courses or 9 of the streight Lines having laid it thus upon the figure of the Arch stick a Pin or two through it to keep it in its place then lay a Ruler upon the Past-board true to the 7 8 or 9th streight Line of the Arch according as the Past-board is in bigness to cover them and take a sharp Pen-knife laying the Ruler upon the Past-board true to the streight line whose ends being continued longer than the Arch is deep as I directed before will be seen beyond the Past-board and cut the Past-board true to the Line then take another sheet and join to it and cut it as you did the first so continue till you have covered the Arch from AE just to the line DG sticking Pins in each Sheet to keep them in the places where you lay them Then describe both the Ellipsis lines upon the Pastboard from the same Centres and Radii that you described the Ellipsis's under the Past-board and either divide the Ellipsis lines with the Compasses on the Past-board or else draw lines upon the Past-board from or by the streight lines underneath them whose ends you see but the surer way is to divide the Ellipsis's on the Past-board and draw Lines through those Divisions as you did beneath the Past-board then set 7 Inches being the length of each Stretcher from A towards E and from D towards G and describe from the former Centres the Ellipsis o o through each other course on the Past-board as you may see in the Fig. also set three Inches and an half being the breadth of the Header from A towards E and likewise from D towards G Also set the same 3 Inches and an half from E towards A and from G towards D and describe these two Ellipsis lines from the same Centres through each Course which the Ellipsis line of the Stretchers miss'd likewise draw in the same Courses two other Ellipsis lines one Inch and 3 4 from each of those two Lines you drew last which is the breadth of the Closiers thus one Course of the Arch will be divided into two Stretchers and the next to it into three Headers and two Closiers through the whole Arch this being done cut the Past-board according to the lines into several Courses and each other Course into two Stretchers and the Heading-courses into three Headers and two Closiers exactly according to the Sweep of the balcklead lines and mark each Course with Figures marking the first Course of the Hanse with 1 the next with 2 the third with 3 and so continue till you have marked all the Courses to the Key or middle for every Course differs you were best to mark the lower Closier in each Course with a Cipher on the left hand of its own number that you may know it readily from the upper Closier and make no mistakes when you come to set them also the middle Headers in each Course should be marked besides its own number the thickness of the upper Header being easily discerned from the lower Header needs no marking besides its own number the cross Joints and likewise the under side and upper side of each Course must be cut circular as the Past-boards which are your Moulds direct you If you will add a Keystone and Chaptrels to the Arch as in the Figure let the breadth of the upper part of the Keystone be the height of the Arch viz. 14 Inches and Sommer from the centre at I then make your Chaptrels the same thickness that your lower part of the Keystone is and let the Keystone break without the Arch so much as you project or Sale over the Jaums with the Chaptrels Other kind of Circular Arches as half Rounds and Scheams being described from one Centre are so plain and easy that I need say nothing concerning them But since Streight Arches are much used and many Workmen know not the true way of describing them I shall write something briefly concerning them Streight Arches are used generally over Windows and Doors and according to the breadth of the Piers between the Windows so ought the Skew-back or Sommering of the Arch to be for if the Piers be of a good breadth as 3 or 4 Bricks in length then the Streight Arch may be described as it s vulgarly said from the Oxi which being but part of a Word is taken from the word Oxigonium signifying an Equilateral Triangle with three sharp Angles but if the Piers are small as sometimes they are but the length of two Bricks and sometimes but one Brick and an half then the breadth of the Window or more may be set down upon the middle Line for the
Centre which will give a less Skew-back or Sommering than the Centre from an Oxi I will shew how to describe them both ways and first from the Oxi Suppose a Streight Arch one Brick and an half in height to be made over a Window 4 feet in width See Fig. 4. wherein one half of the Arch is described from the Oxi and the other half from the width of the Window let the width of the Window be A B taking the width between the Compasses from A and B as two Centres describe the two Arches intersecting each other at P though I speak here of Compasses yet when you describe the Arch to its full bigness you must use a Ruler or a Line scarce any Compasses being to be got large enough Then draw another Line above the line A B as the line CD being parallel to it at such a height as you intend your Arch to be as in this Fig. at 12 Inches but most commonly these sort of Arches are but 11 Inches in the height or thereabouts which answers to 4 Courses of Bricks but you may make them more or less in height according as occasion requires then laying a Ruler on the Centre P and on the end of the line A draw the line A C which is vulgarly called the Skew-back for the Arch. The next thing to be done is to divide those two lines A B and C D into so many Courses as the Arch will contain the thickness of a Brick being one of them which some do by dividing the upper line into so many equal parts and from those parts and from the Centre P draw the Sommering Lines or Courses others divide both the upper and lower line into so many equal parts and make no use of a Centre but draw the Courses by a Ruler being laid from the Divisions on the upper line to the Divisions on the lower line both which ways are false and erroneous but this by way of caution Having drawn the Skew-back A C take between your Compasses the thickness that a Brick will contain which I suppose to be two Inches when it is rub'd and setting one Point of the Compasses on the line C D So that when you turn the other Point about it may just touch the line A C in one place and there make a Prick in the line C D but do not draw the Sommering lines until you have gone over half the Arch to see how you come to the Key or middle and if you happen to come just to the middle line or want an Inch of it then you may draw the lines but if not then you must open or shut the Compasses a little till you do Then keeping one end of the Rule close to the Centre at P. the surest way is to strike a small Nail in the Center P and keep the Rule close to the Nail lay the other end of the Rule close to the Prick that you made on the line C D keeping the Compasses at the same width viz. 2. Inches set one Point of the Compasses on the line C D as before so that the other Point being turned about may just pass by the Rule and as it were touch it in one place you must remove the Point of the Compasses upon the line C D farther or nearer to the Rule until it just touch the Rule in one place and so continue with the Rule and Compasses until you come to the middle line and if it happen that your last space want an Inch of the middle then the middle of the Key-course will be the middle of the Arch and the number of the Courses in the whose Arch will be odd but if the last space happen to fall just upon the middle line E F as it doth in the Fig. then the Joint is the middle of the Arch but if it should happen neither to come even to the line nor want an Inch of it then you must open or shut the Compasses a small matter and begin again till it doth come right and the number of the Courses in the whole Arch is an even Number Note When the number of all the Courses in the Arch is an even Number then you must begin the two sides contrary viz. A Header to be the lower Brick of the first Course on one side or half of the Arch and a Stretcher the lower Brick of the first Course on the oother side or half of the Arch And contrariwise if it happen that the Number of the Courses be an odd Number as 25 or 27 or such like then the first Courses of each half of the Arch must be alike that is either both Headers or both Stretchers at the botom Thus having described the Arch the next thing to be done is to make the Sommering Mould which to do get a piece of thin Wainscot being streight on one edge and having one side Plained smooth to set the Bevil strokes upon about 14 Inches long and any breadth above two Inches then laying your Ruler one end at the Centre P and the other end even in the Skew-back line clap the streight edge of the Wainscot close to the Rule so that the lower end of the Wainscot may lye a little below the line A B then take away the Center Rule but stir not the Wainscot and laying a Ruler upon the Wainscot just over the line C D strike a line upon the Wainscot then set one Point of the Compasses being at the width of a Course viz. 2 Inches upon that line so that the other Point being turned about may just touch the streight edge of the Wainscot as you did before in dividing the Courses then make a Prick on the line on the Wainscot and laying your Centre Rule upon it and on the Centre P draw a line upon the Wainscot by the Ruler with a Pencil or the Point of a Compass and cut the Wainscot to that line and make it streight by shooting it with a Plain then your Wainscot will fit exactly between any two lines of the Arch you may let it want the thickness of one of the lines or some small matter more which is enough for the thickness of a Mortar the length of your Stretcher in this Arch may be 8 Inches and 1 4 and the Header 3 Inches and 3 4 but if your Arch be but 11 Inches in height then make your Stretcher 7 Inches and 1 2 long and the Header 3 Inches 1 2 one piece of Wainscot will serve both for the length of the Stretcher and the length of the Header making it like a long square or Oblong whose sides are 8 Inches 1 4 and 3 Inches and 3 4. Then take a Bevil and laying the inner edge of it streight with the line A B and the Angle of the Bevil just over the Angle at A take off the Angle that the Skew-back line A C makes with the line A B and set it upon the smoothed side of your Sommering Mould for the Bevil
that make quantities of Hinges do brighten them as they call it yet they seldom file them but Grinde them on a Grind-stone till they become bright c. Having finished the Joint put the Pin in again but take care it be a little longer than the depth of the Joint because you must batter the ends of the Pin over the outer edges of the Pin-hole that the Pin may not drop out when either edge of the Cross is turned upwards The chiefest curiosity in the making these and indeed all other Hinges is 1. That the Pin-hole be exactly round and not too wide for the Pin. 2. That the Joints are let exactly into one another that they have no play between them lest they shake upwards or downwards nor yet are forced too hard into one another lest when they are nailed on the door the Joint be in danger of breaking 3. That the Cross and the Tail lie on the under-side exactly flat for should they wrap out of flat when they are nailed on the Nails would draw the Joint a-wry and not only make it move hard and unevenly but by oft Opening and Shutting break the Joint 4. If your Work be intended to be curious the true Square-filing the upper-side as you were taught Numb I. fol. 14 15 16. is a great Ornament a Smiths call all Chissels they use upon cold Iron Cold-Chissels b The Stake is a small Anvil which either stands upon a broad Iron foot or Basis on the Work-Bench to remove as occasion offers or else it hath a strong Iron Spike at the bottom which Iron Spike is let into some certain place of the Work-Bench not to be removed It s office is to set small cold Work straight upon or to Cut or Punch upon with the Cold-Chissel or Cold-Punch c Smiths call all Punches they use upon cold Iron Cold-Punches If the Hinge you are to make be large and Plate-Iron is not strong enough for it you must Forge it out of flat Bar-Iron as you were taught Numb I. Fol. 8. to 13. The manner of working Duftails Fig. 5. and Side-hinges Fig. 6. c. is the shape considered in all respects the same I have here shewed you in Cross-Garnets but in these or others you may if your work require curiosity instead of Doubling for the Joint Forge the Round for the Joint of full Iron and afterwards Drill a hole through it for the Pin-hole and by curious Filing work them so true into one another that both sides of the Hinge shall seem but one piece as I shall shew more at large when I come to the making Compasses and other Joints for Mathematical Instruments Of Locks and Keys AS there are Locks for several purposes as Street-door Locks called Stock Locks Chamber-door Locks called Spring-Locks Cupboard-Locks Chest-Locks Trunk-Locks Pad-Locks c. So are there several Inventions in Locks I mean in the making and contriving their Wards or Guards But the contrivances being almost innumerable according to the various fancies of Men shall be referred to another time to discourse and I shall now shew you the working of a Spring-Lock which when you know how to do your Fancy may play with Inventions as you best like In Fig. 2. AAAA the Main plate BC the Key-hole EDE the Top-hook EE Cross-wards F the Bolt G the Bolt-Toe or Bolt-Nab H the Draw-back Spring I the Tumbler K the Pin of the Tumbler LL the Staples In Fig. 3. AAAA the Cover-Plate B the Pin DCD the Main-ward DD Cross-wards E the Step-ward or Dap-ward In Fig. 4. A the Pin-hole B the Step or Dap-ward C the Hook-ward D the Middle or Main Cross-ward EE the Cross-ward F the Main-ward GG Cross-ward H the Shank I the Pot or Bead K the Bow-ward L the Bow BCDEEFGG the Bit. First Cut out of an Iron Plate with a Cold-Chissel the size and shape of the Main-Plate as you were taught to cut the Cross and Tail-piece of the Cross-Garnet then consider what depth you intend the Bit of the Key shall have and set that depth off on the Main-Plate by leaving about half an Inch of Plate between the bottom of the Key-hole and the lower edge of the Main-Plate as at C or more or less according to the size of the Lock Then measure with a pair of Compasses between the bottom of the Bit and the Centre of your Key or your intended Key and set that distance off from C to B near the middle between the two ends of the Main-Plate and with the a Prick-punch make there a mark to set one foot of your Compasses in then opening your Compasses to the middle of the Bit of your intended Key as to D describe the Arch EDE for the true place the Top-hoop must stand on Then cut out another piece of Plate as AAAA in Fig. 3. for a Cover-plate with two pieces one on each side long enough to make Studs of to turn downwards and then outward again as FF GG that the Cover-plate may stand off the Main-Plate the breadth of the Bit of the Key and at the two end of these Studs Punch holes as GG to Rivet the Cover-Plate into the Main-Plate In the middle of this Plate make the Centre as at B then open your Compasses to three quarters the length of the Bit and half the Diameter of the Shank of the Key and placing one foot in the Point B describe with the other foot the Arch DCD for the true place of the Main-ward then set your Compasses to a little more than half the Diameter of the Shank and place one foot as before in the Centre B and with the other foot describe the small Arch E for the true place the Step-ward or as some call it the Dap-ward must stand So have you the true places of the Wards for an ordinary Spring-Lock you may if the depth of your Bit will bear it put more Wards in your Plates But you must note that the more Wards you put in the weaker you make your Key because that to every Ward on the Plates you must make a slit or Ward in the Bit of the Key and the more Wards you make the weaker the Iron of the Bit will be and then if the Bolt shoot not easily backwards or forwards the Bit may be in danger of breaking Having marked on your Plates the places of all your Wards you must take thin Plate and with Hammering and Filing make them both b Hammer-hard and of equal thickness all the way Then file one edge very straight by laying a straight Ruler just within the edge of it and drawing or racing with a point of hardned Steel a bright line by the side of the Ruler File away the edge of the Plate to that line then draw as before another straight line parallel to the first straight line or which is all one parallel to the filed Edge just of the breadth you intend the Wards shall be and File as before only you must leave two
or sometimes three Studs upon this Plate one near each end and the other in the middle to Rivet into the Main-plate to keep the Ward fixt in its place Therefore you must take care when you elect this thin piece of Plate that it be broad enough for the Ward and these Studs too Then laying the Plate a-thwart the Pike of the Bickern hold your hand even with the face of the Bickern and hammer this Plate down somewhat by the side of the Pike and by degrees you may with care taken bring it unto a circular form just of the size of that Circle you described on the Main-Plate which when you have done you must apply this Ward to the Circle you described on the Main-Plate setting it in the position you intend it shall be fixed and marking with a steel Point where the Studs stand upon that Circle in those marks punch holes to Rivet the Studs to Work so by all the other Wards If you have a Pin to the Lock Punch a hole through the Centre on the Cover-Plate somewhat smaller than the Wyre you are to make your Pin of because you may then file one end of the Pin away to a Shank which must fit the smaller hole on the Plate and the whole thickness of the Pin will be a Sholder which will keep the Pin steddy in the Centre-hole of the Plate when the Pin is Rivetted into the Plate But because there is some Skill to be used in Rivetting I shall before I proceed any farther teach you The manner of Rivetting Rivetting is to batter the Edges of a Shank over a Plate or other Iron the Shank is let into so as the Plate or other Iron may be clinched close and fixed between the battering at the end of the Shank and the Sholder So that When you Rivet a Pin into a hole your Pin must have a Sholder to it thicker than the hole is wide that the Sholder slip not through the hole as well as the Shank but the Shank of the Pin must be exactly of the size of the hole the Shank must be Rivetted into and somewhat longer than the Plate is thick file the end of the Shank flat so shall the Edges of the end the easilier batter over the Plate then put your Shank into the hole wherein it is to be Rivetted but be sure you force the Shank close up to the Sholder then turn the top of this Sholder downwards Plate and all upon your Stake but lay it so as that the Sholder lie solid and the Shank at the same time stand directly upright and with your left hand keep your work bearing hard upon the flat or face of the Stake Then holding your hammer in your right hand hold the edge of the face of it dripping a-slope from the right hand outwards and lay pretty light blows upon the edge of the end of the Shank turning with your left hand your work round to the face of the Hammer till you have battered the edges of the Shank quite round about but this is seldom done with once turning your work about therefore you may thus work it round again and again till you find it is pretty well Rivetted then lay heavier blows upon it sometimes with the face sometimes with the Pen of the hammer till the end of the Shank is battered effectually over the Plate One main consideration in Rivetting is that the Pin you rivet in stand upright to the Plate or other Iron you rivet it upon for if it do not stand upright you will be forced to set it upright after it is rivetted either in the Vice or with your Plyers or with your Hammer and that may if your Plate be thin bow it or if it be thick break the Sank or else the Sholder of your Rivet and so you lose your labour and sometimes spoil your Work Another consideration is that when you rivet a Pin to any Plate and you fear it may afterwards twist about by some force that may be offered it you must to provide against this danger file the Shank you intend to Rivet either Square or Triangular and make the hole in the Plate you rivet it into of the same size and form and then rivet in the Shank as before There are two ways to make your Hole Square or Triangular one is by filing it into these forms when it is first Punched round the other by making a Punch of Steel of the size and shape of the Shank you are to rivet and punching that punch into the Plate make the same form Now to return where I left off The Pins and Shanks of these Wards must be made of a long square form because the Plates of the Wards being thin should you make them no broader than the Plate is thick the Studs or Shanks would be too weak to hold the Wards therefore you must make the Rivetting-shank three or four times or sometimes more as broad as the Plate is thick and then rivet them in as you were taught just now Then place the Cover-plate upon the Main-plate so as the Centre of the Cover-plate may stand directly over and against the Centre of the Main-plate and make marks through the hole GG of the Studs of the Cover-plate upon the Main-plate and on those marks Punch holes and fit two Pins into them to fasten the Cover-plate on to the Main-plate but you must not yet rivet them down till the Key-hole be made because this Cover-plate would then stop the progress of the File through the Main-plate when you file the Key-hole When you have placed the Cover-plate upon the Main-plate and fitted it on with Pins so as you may take it off and put it on again as your Work may require you must Punch the key-hole or rather drill two holes close by one another if the Key-hole falls near the Wards because Punching may be apt to set the Wards out of form and with small Files file the two holes into one another to make the hole big enough to come at it with bigger Files and then file your Key-hole to your intended size and shape The Key-hole being finished forge your Key as you were taught Numb I. fol. 8. and if your Key is to have a Pin-hole drill the hole in the middle of the end of the shank then file the Wards or Slits in the Bit with thin Files yet sometimes Smiths Punch or Cut them with a Cold-Chissel at the same distances from the middle of the Pin-hole in the end of the Shank which is the same Centre which was made before in the Main-plate on the Cover-plate which you placed the Wards at from the Centre of the Main and Cover-plate But before you file these Wards too deep into the Bit of the Key make trials by putting the Bit into the Key-hole whether the Wards in the Bit will agree with the Wards on the Plates which if they do you may boldly cut them to the depth of the Wards
or Bar just above the Sholder makes the Head and for that I did not mention it there I thought fit since the purpose required it to do it here The Forging of the Nuts are taught before Numb I. Fol. 11 12. Having forged and filed your Shank square and the Head either square or round as you intend it shall be file also the Screw-pin from the risings and dents left at the Forge and file it a little tapering towards the end that it may enter the Screw-plate the Rule how much it must be Tapering is this consider how deep the Inner Grooves of the Screw-plate lie in the outer Threds and file the end of the Screw-pin so much smaller than the rest of the Screw-pin for the outer Threds of the Screw-plate must make the Grooves on the Screw-pin and the Grooves in the Screw-plate will make the Threds on the Screw-pin Having fitted your self with a hole in your Screw-plate that is such a hole whose Diameter of the hollow Grooves shall be equal to the Diameter of the Screw-pin but not such an hole whose Diameter of the outer Threds shall be equal to the Diameter of the Screw-pin for then the Screw-plate will indeed turn about the Screw-pin but not cut any Grooves or Threds in it screw the Shank with the Head down-wards in the Vice so as that the Screw-pin may stand directly upright and take the handle of the Screw-plate in your Right-hand and lay that hole flat upon the Screw-pin and press it pretty hard down over it and turn the Screw-plate evenly about with its handle towards you from the Right towards the Left-hand so shall the outer Threds of the Srew-plate cut Grooves into the Screw-pin and the substance of the Iron on the Screw-pin will fill up the Grooves of the Screw-plate and be a Thred upon the Screw-pin But take this for Caution that as I told you you must not make your Screw-pin too small because the Screw-plate will not then cut it so if you make it too big if it do enter the Screw-plate where it is Taper it will endanger the breaking it or if it do not break it yet the Screw-plate will after it gets a little below the Tapering go no farther but work and wear off the Thred again it made about the tapering To fit the Pin therefore to a true size I in my Practise use to try into what hole of the Screw-plate the Tap or place of the Tap if it be a tapering Tap I make the Nut with will just slide through Threds and all which generally in most Screw-plates is the hole next above that to be used for then turning my Pin about in that hole if the Pin be irregularly filed or but a little too big on any part of it the Threds of that Hole will cut small marks upon the Pin on the irregular places or where it is too big so that afterwards filing those marks just off I do at once file my Pin truly round and small enough to fit the Hole I make my Screw-pin with As the Hole of the Screw-plate must be fitted to the Screw-pin so must the Screw-tap that makes the Screw in the Nut be fitted to the round hole of the Nut but that Tap must be of the same size of your Screw-pin too which you may try by the same hole of the Screw-plate you made the Screw-pin with Screw the Nut in the Vice directly flat that the hole may stand upright and put the Screw-tap upright into the hole then if your Screw-tap have an handle turn it by the handle hard round in the Hole so will the Screw-tap work it self into the Hole and make Grooves in it to fit the Threds of the Screw-pin But if the Screw-tap have no handle then it hath its upper end filed to a long square to fit into an hollow square made near the handle of the Screw-plate put that long square hole over the long square on the top of the Tap and then by turn-ing about the Screw-plate you will also turn about the Tap in the hole and make Grooves and Threds in the Nut. But though small Screws are made with Screw-plates yet great Screws such as are for Vices Hot-Presses Printing-Presses c. are not made with Screw-Plates but must be cut out of the main Iron with heavy blows upon a Cold-Chissel The manner of making them is as follows The Rules and manner of Cutting Worms upon great Screws THE Threds of Screws when they are bigger than can be made in Screw-plates are called Worms They consist in length breadth and depth the length of a Worm begins at the one end of the Spindle and ends at the other the breadth of the Worm is contained between any two Grooves on the Spindle viz. The upper and under Groove of the Worm in every part of the Spindle the depth of the Worm is cut into the Diameter of the Spindle viz. The depth between the outside of the Worm and the bottom of the Groove The depth ought to be about the one Seventh Part of the Diameter on each side the Spindle You ought to make the Groove wider than the Worm is broad because the Worm being cut out of the same intire piece with the Spindle will be as strong as the Worm in the Nut tho' the Worm on the Spindle be smaller for you cannot come at the Worm in the Nut to cut it with Files as you may the Spindle and therefore you must either Turn up a Rod of Iron to twist round about the Grooves on the Spindle and then take it off and Braze it into the Nut or else you must Cast a Nut of Brass upon the Spindle which will neither way be so strong as the Worm cut out of the whole Iron by so much as Brass is a weaker Mettal than Iron and therefore it is that you ought to allow the Worm in the Nut a greater breadth than the Worm on the Spindle that the strength of both may as near as you can be equallized for both being put to equal force ought to have equal strength The Worm may very well be the One Seventh Part smaller than the Groove is wide as aforesaid Having considered what breadth the Worm on the Spindle shall have take a small thin Plate of Brass or Iron and file a square notch at the end of it just so wide and so deep as your Worm is to be broad and deep and file the sides of the Plate that this notch stands between just to the width of the Groove This Plate must be a Gage to file your Worm and Groove to equal breadth by then draw a straight and upright line the whole length of the Spindle divide from this line the Circumference of the whole Spindle into eight equal parts and through those Divisions draw seven Lines more parallel to the first Line then open your Compasses just to the breadth of one Worm and one Groove and set off that distance