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A52618 An account of several late voyages & discoveries to the south and north towards the Streights of Magellan, the South Seas, the vast tracts of land beyond Hollandia Nova &c. : also towards Nova Zembla, Greenland or Spitsberg, Groynland or Engrondland, &c. / by Sir John Narborough, Captain Jasmen Tasman, Captain John Wood, and Frederick Marten of Hamburgh ; to which are annexed a large introduction and supplement, giving an account of other navigations to those regions of the globe, the whole illustrated with charts and figures. Narbrough, John, Sir, 1640-1688.; Tasman, Abel Janszoon, 1603?-1659.; Wood, John, Captain.; Martens, Friedrich, 1635-1699.; Robinson, Tancred, Sir, d. 1748. 1694 (1694) Wing N154; ESTC R18669 230,732 472

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as he comes out from the South-Sea if he lose sight of the South-shore Here lie four small Islands at the North part of the mouth of the Streight in the South-Sea they lie pretty near together the Eastermost stands singly by it self and is round copling up of a fair height like an Hay-cock or Sugar-loaf the other three are flattish they lie from Cape-pillar North-north-west by the true Compass 6 Legues off they are distant from Cape-Victory near four Leagues South-west I called them The Islands of Direction they are good wishing to fall with the Mouth of the Streight November 26. The Land makes in Islands lying near the main Land is high and large Hills In-land which stretch North and South some Snow lying on the tops of the highest Hill At eight of the Clock I made the Island of Nuestra Sennora del Socoro in the Spanish Tongue it is called The Island of our Lady of Sucore I steered with it North-east and by East it made rounding up at the Eastermost end and lower in the middle that at either end it maketh with a ridge running from one end to the other and Trees growing on it the shore-Shore-side is rocky on the South-side of the Island and some broken Rocks lie near the shore-Shore-side and on the South-east end of the Island there stand two peaked copling Rocks close to the Shore they are white on the top with Fowls dung The Island is of a fine heighth and all woody on the north-North-side of it the Trees grow down to the Water-side and fresh Water runs down in five or six Gullies the Woods are all green and very thick spicy Trees Meridian distance at Noon from Cape-pillar East 20 d. ● m 4 ten Longitude at Noon from Cape-pillar East 1 d 19 m. Longitude at Noon from the Lizard West 71 d. 42 m. Meridian distance at Noon from the Lizard West 1128 leag 2 mil. 9 ten The Island Nuestra Senore di Socoro lies in the Latitude of forty five degrees South and in Longitude East from Cape-pillar one degree nineteen minutes Meridian distance from Cape-pillar East 20 leag 0 min. 4 ten Meridian distance from the Lizard West 1128 deg 2 min. 42 min. Longitude from the Meridian of the Lizard West 71 deg 9 ten The Compass hath eleven Degrees Variation Easterly here I went a-shore with my Boats for fresh Water which I had them laden with presently for here is fresh Water enough and very good I searched the Shore what I could I saw on old Hutt or Arbour of the Indians making and several sticks that were cut but all old done I could not see any sign of People on the Island now I believe the People come rambling to this Island from the Main in the best season of the Year to get young Fowls for I do not see any thing else in the Island for the sustenance of Mans Life I could not see any kind of Mineral or Metal the Soil is a sandy black Earth and some Banks of Rocks the Island is irregular and grown all over with impenetrable thick Woods so as I could not see the inward part of it the Woods are ordinary Timber none that I saw was fit to make Planks of the nature of the Wood is much like Beech and Birch and a sort of heavy Wood good for little but the fire it is white no Fruit or Herbs very little Grass the Woods are so thick much kind of long sedgy Grass no wild Beast to be seen several small Birds in the Woods like Sparrows there are several Fowls like Kites in the Woods several black and white brant-Geese and pied Shags and other such Sea-Fowls as Pinks and Sea-mews what else the Island affords I cannot tell I made a Fire on the Shore in hopes to have some answer of it on the Main but had not At Noon I went aboard and sent my Boats a-shore again for more Wood and Water whilst the Weather permitted landing November 30. This Forenoon I was over on the main side the Ship lay off and in I went ashore with my Boat on an Island which lieth adjacent to the Main There runs a Channel between that and the Main and many Rocks lie in it and foul Ground so as I durst not venture the Ship in it This Island shewed as if it had been the Main till I went to it with the Boat being about four Leagues long from the North-point to the South-point and in some places a League broad The Island is of a mean height and in some places two Leagues broad and grown all over with Woods very thick the Timber is such like as is on the Isle of Socoro I could not see any kind of Mineral or Metal in it the Shore-side sandy in many places and rocky in others the Earth on this Island is of a sandy black soil but very wet with the continual Rains that are here Not finding this noted in my Draughts I called it after my own Name Narbrough's-Island I took possesion of it for his Majesty and his Heirs I could not see any People or any sign of them here South-east from Narbrough's-Island on the Main distant about three Leagues there runs into the Land a River or Sound and some broken ground lies before it The Shore-side is rocky and the Hills are high in the Land on both sides of it this opening lies in East and West I take it for that place which in the Draughts is called Saint Domingo This place lies in the Latitude of forty four Degrees fifty Minutes South and more to the Southward thereof lie many round coplin high Islands grown over with Woods all along the Coasts as far as I could see there lie Islands adjacent to the Main and they are of a great height This Day all the Bread in the Ship is expended all the Company of the Ship my self as well as any other eat Pease in lieu of Bread my Company are all indifferent well in health I thank God for it being seventy two in Company no Fish to be taken with Hooks many Porpusses seen and some Whales several Sea-Fowls seen swimming to day much Wind to Night at North-west I ride fast but doubtful of my Cable No-Man's Island lies in the Latitude of forty three Degrees forty seven Minutes South and in Longitude West from the Lizard in England seventy one Degrees thirty two Minutes And in Meridian distance from the Lizard of England one thousand one hundred and twenty six Leagues and one Mile and in Meridian distance from Cape-pillar East twenty two Leagues two Miles and two tenths and in Longitude East from Cape-pillar one degree twenty nine minutes 1 10. The variation of the Compass is ten Degrees Easterly here This Island is that which the Draughts make to lie at the south-South-end of the Island of Castro at the Mouth of the going in of that Channel which is between Castro and the Main the Draughts are false in laying down of this Coast for they
735 Leagues 1 mile 5 tenths Variation of the Compass Easterly 18 Degrees I concluded we had shot past Port Desier Harbour in the Fog for the Islands and Rocks which we saw were Penguin and other Isles lying about it which lies to the Southward of the Harbour of Port Desier Many Seals Penguins pied Porpoises and several Sea Fowls c. seen to day Thursday Febr. 24. Hasey Weather Wind at West-north-west a fresh gale I sent Men up to the Top-mast-head to look abroad this Morning no sight of the Pink I judge she must be in Port Desier I weighed about 8 a Clock this Morning and stood to the Northward with my Ship I went in my Pinnace along the shore to the Northward whilst the Ship sail'd in the Offing about two Leagues from the shore the Shore-side is in Beaches and scatter'd Rocks in many places the Tide of Flood was with us at the North-end of Seals Bay lies a small rocky Island copling up like a Haycock It is cover'd with grey-colour'd Fowls Dung a very strong Tide runs here between the Island and the Main 't is a little more than a Cables length from the Point of the Main there 's a great many broken Rocks about it by the Sea-side here the main Land is low and sandy up the Country in large Downs and Hills without Wood or fresh Water any where On this Island are abundance of Seals and Sea Fowls we gave it the name of Tomahauke Island from an Indian Club lost here called by the Caribbe-Indians at Surinam a Temahauke 't is all a craggy Rock a little bigger than Seal-Island and is eight Leagues to the North-north-east distant from it to the Northwest of this Island is a deep rounding Bay called in the Charts Spiring's Bay wherein lie three small Islands of an indifferent height the Land in the Country over this Bay is large high Hills Rocks lie in the North part of the Bay I cross'd it in the Pinnace amd sounded as I went over and had 21 Fathom rough ground in the mid-way 't is seven Miles broad and near 3 Leagues deep it rounds with a turning up to the North-northwest ward behind a Point farther than I saw upon which rounding Point stand black Rocks which make like a ragged Building and a Tower in it at my coming in with the Land I sail'd close under this shoar with my Boat the shore is steep black Rocks and low Bays with Pebble-stones and sandy Beaches green Grass on the Hills no Wood nor fresh Water to be seen at the North-east Point of this Spiring's-Bay the Land makes out full like a foreland a fair high Land in large plain Hills with sandy small Bays at the face of this Foreland lie six rocky Islands one is a Musket-shot off the Main the rest farther off the outwardmost is the biggest a Mile from the Point of the Main and is called Penguin-Island it is indifferent high at the ends and low in the middle 't is near three quarters of a Mile long North-north-east and South-south-west and near half a Mile broad East and West it is all craggy Rocks except in the lowest part of the middle which is gravelly and in the Summer time had a little green Grass the great black Gannets lay their Eggs here and the Penguins all over the Island upon and under the Rocks in Holes Seals lie all about the sides on the tops of the highest Rocks and in the middle of it the number of Seals Penguins and Sea-Fowl upon these Islands is alsmost incredible to them that never saw them for the multitude of each Creature that 's there daily is numberless the Six Islands are full of Seals but the Penguins frequent the biggest most I put a-shore at one of them and took into my Boat three hundred Penguins in less than half an hour and could have taken three thousand in the time if my Boat would have carried 'em for 't is but driving 'em in flocks to the shore by the Boats side where two or three Men knock them on the head with short Truncheons and the rest heave them into the Boat the Seals will run over a Man if he does not avoid 'em mean time the Ship was standing to the Northward about 2 Leagues off many broken Rocks and foul ground lie among these Islands and without the Point of the outermost it makes a great ripling which is the strength of the Tide reversed from the Islands aginst the other Tide to the Northward of these Islands is a Bay four Leagues long and a League and half deep in the Northwest thereof lies the Harbour of Port Desier which we could see from Penguin Island 's bearing North-north-west from Penguin Island distant about 3 Leagues about the middle of this Bay are steep white Cliffs near two miles long the upper part of the Cliff has black streaks down a fourth part caused by the Water draining down on it the Land is plain on the top of these Cliffs but further into the Country high rounding Hills and Downs and toward the Water-side low on the South part of the Bay are craggy Rocks on the Main like great Walls near the Sea there 's a sandy Cove to hale a Boat up in foul Weather the Cove is just under these wall-like Rocks Saturday Feb. 26. Fair Weather the Wind at West a stiff gale I kept a Light out all Night that the Pink might see if she came along the first part of the Night a great Fire was made on the shore for the same purpose Cold weather this Morning at 7 a Clock I manned both my Boats and into the Herbour the Ship rode moored at the Harbour-mouth within the Muscle-bank in six Fathom at low Water I sent my Men upon the Hills on the North shore to look abroad for the Pink and make a Fire in the dry Grass that she might see the smoak if she were thereabouts but they could not see her I sounded the Harbour in many places to day at low Water and found it a very good one for great Ships to ride in provided they have good Cables and Anchros I searched the shore but found no Wood and very little fresh Water on the hilly and large Downs very few Bushes but dry long Grass growing in tufts and knots the Soil is gravelly and dry in some Valleys well mixt with black mould no People fire or smoak but our own to be seen I saw several places where they had lain behind Bushes upon Grass which they had plucked up and that they had made small sires and roasted Lumpets and Muscles there lay Wooll Feathers bones of Beasts and shivers of Flints I went to a Flag which I left on a Hill yesterday with Beads at it but finding no body had been at it let it stand no Beasts seen any where except two Hares running over the Hills this day we were taken up with viewing the Harbour so that we did not advance above a mile and
Valley in a gully of Rocks it bears North-north-west from the lower Rock that we called Peckets Well is a mile up the River within a Bow-shot of the salt Water 't is in a gully the Land in these Valleys has very green and sweet Grass and abundance of wild Pease small Nut-galls growing on the Bushes but in no great quantity and but few Bushes Salt may be made here for on the Shore-side and on the Rocks I gathered several handfuls of good Salt March 25. Gentlemen You are by me desired to take notice that this Day I take possession of this Harbour and River of Port Desier and of all the Land in this Country on both Shores for the use of his Majesty King Charles the Second of Great Britain and his Heirs God save our King and fired three Ordnance Saturday March 26. Wind at West a stout Gale I stood to the Northward this Morning at six a Clock when the Sun appeared above the East Horizon the Moon set in the West-horizon being eclipsed at London at Elevan a Clock ten minutes in the Forenoon but here at six a Clock thirty minutes past which gives four hours forty minutes difference of time between the Meridian of London and the Meridian of Cape Blanco which Cape lies in the Latitude of 47 d. 20 m. South on the South-east Coast of America where I saw this Eclipse 70 degrees in Longitude to the Westward of the Meridian of London by this Observation I could not see the whole Eclipse the Heavens being clouded I find Cape Blanco by my account of Sailing to lie in the Longitude of 69 d. 16 m. to the Westward of the Meridian of London If the Moon had not been clouded I might have been exact in the Longitude but I presume my Account is not much out Cape Blanco lies in the Latitude of 47 d. 20 m. South and in Longitude from the Lizard West 61 d. 56 m. and in Meridian distance from the Lizard West 1014 Leagues 1 Mile 6 1● Port Desier in America lies in the Latitude of 47 d. 48 m. South and in Longitude from the Lizard West 61 d. 57 m. Meridian distance from the Lizard West 1015. Leagues 2 Miles 6 10 Penguin Island or the plentiful Isles Latitude 47 d. 55 m. South and in Longitude from the Lizard West 61 d. 57 m. Meridian distance from the Lizard West 1014. Leagues 2 Miles Variation of the Compass here is Easterly 17 d. 30 m. April 1. The Sweepstakes off of Seal's Bay in the Latitude of 48 d. 10 m. South on the Coast of Patagonia Saturday April 2. Fair Weather this Morning Wind at North-north-west a fine gale I filled at Day-light and steered away South-south-west and South and by West by my Compass as the Coast lies I sailed along in twenty Fathom-water black Sand distant from the shore near three Leagues this forenoon at nine a Clock I saw a small flat Island to the Westward of me about a League off the Land it lies in the Latitude of 48 d. 40 m. South the Land against it is high in large Hills and some round copling tops two Leagues more to the Southward the Land is low in a great Plain and a Beach by the Sea-side but the shore against this Island is rocky I was two Leagues East from the flat Island and had twenty three fathom black Sand I haled close in for the shore and sail'd within five Miles of it all along from this Island to Port St. Julian I sounded as I sail'd along and had 18 or 20 fathom fine black Sand the Land is low in a Valley the Sea-shore is a Beach here and there a Rock it is in a long Beach for four Leagues after you are to the Southward of the Flat-Island one League the shore lies South-fourth-west and North-north-east at the south-South-end of this Beach in-land are high round Hills but at the Sea-side is a steep white Cliff of an indifferent heighth with a black streak in it over the Cliff the Hill rounds up to the top having some small black Bushes growing on the side no Wood or Tree seen In this Bay is Port St. Julian the Harbour's mouth is in the middle of the Bay but you cannot see it without for one Point shutting in the other you must send your Boat in to discover the Harbour at Low-water and the Bar without for 't is a barred Harbour the Land in the Country over Port St. Julian on the West-side is high copling round Hills like blunt Sugar-loaves on the top ●is the highest Land I saw in all the Country and there are no such Hills besides on the Coast the Land is plain to the South without any Hill as far as we could see at this time this Afternoon it proved a Calm I anchored in the Bay before St. Julian in twelve fathom Water black oary Land the Harbour's mouth bearing West-south-west of me about two Leagues off I sent in my Boat to discover the Harbour and see if the Pink was there which returned to Night at six a Clock my Lieutenant told me there was a safe Harbour and Water enough for a bigger Ship but no Pink nor any sign of her having been there now I despaired of ever seeing her more after my hopes were frustrated here nevertheless I doubted not the success of my Voyage though the Company thought 't would be dangerous being a lone Ship a stormy Sea to sail in and unknown Coasts to search out and if we should happen to run aground any where could expect no relief these suspicions I soon put out of their Heads by telling them of the great Riches of the Land and that Captain Drake went round the World in one Ship when in those days there were but ordinary Navigators and was it for us to question our good fortune who beyond Comparison are better Seamen if we would put our selves in Action and for me I would expose no Man to more danger than my self in the Attempt Calm to Night I rode fast a small Tide running where I rode the Water ebb'd near three fathom perpendicular it is near nine Leagues from the Flat Island to Saint Julian South-south-west and North-north-east as the shore lies The Mouth of Port Saint Julian in Latitude 49 d. 10 m. South and in Longitude from the Lizard 63 d. 10 m. and in Meridian distance from the Lizard West 1030 Leagues by an Amplitude here the Compass has varied 16 d. 10 m. East Wednesday April 13. Fair Weather Wind at West a small gale Frosty and cold Air no sign of the Pink I went ashore and haled the Seyne on the East-side at the first of the Flood we caught five hundred Fishes as big as large Mullets and much like them grey and full of Scales some as big as a Man's Leg we caught them all in four hours time returned aboard and divided them among the whole Ship 's Company they eat admirably well many good Muscles lie on the Rocks
Leagues or more At the point of the second Narrow on the North-shore up to the North-east-ward a mile or two there is a Bay on the North-shore and a white Cliff of an ordinary height which is called Cape St. Gregory In this Bay you may ride in eight Fathom Water fine clean sandy Ground and a good half mile off the shore This is a good Road if the Wind be between the North-east and the South-west to the Westward the Winds are given most to blow on the Western-quarter As I sailed thorow the second Narrow I sounded in the fair way and had twenty eight and thirty Fathom small stones The North-shore on this Narrow makes in a Bay at the East-point and is white Cliffs all the way through This Narrow lies throughout West-south-west and East-north-east and at the west-West-end of the Narrow the Land is steep up in white Cliffs and the South part rounds away in a rore-land The South-shore rounds away South-east from this Fore-land and then it trents away to the Southward in low Land The North-shore of this Narrow or Streight rounds up to the Northward in white Cliffs and falls into shores there goes in a Harbour which hath four Fathom in the Channel at High-water it is a flat round Harbour within and oary I called this Oaz-harbour When you are at the West-part of this Narrow you will see three Islands come open which shew to be steep up Cliffs they lie Triangle-wise one of another they are four Leagues distant from the Narrow West-south-west The smallest and Eastermost Isle is called St. Bartholomews the biggest and Wester-most is called Elizabeth the middle-most and souther-most is called S. George's and by some Penguins-Isle and indeed there are many Penguins on it This Evening I got up to Elizabeth's and anchored in eight Fathoms and an half sine black Sand two miles off the Island The East-point bears South and by East of me fair Weather all Night the Wind at South and by West This Morning I went ashore on Elizabeth-Island and at my landing nineteen of the Countrey-people came off the Hills to me I had Conference with them and exchanged Knives and Beads for such things as they had which were Bows and Arrows and their Skin-Coats which are made of young Guianacoes skins I gave them a Hatchet and Knives and Beads and Toys Trumps c. they seem'd to be very well-pleased I shewed them Gold which they would have had I made them signs that if they had any I would give them Knives and Beads c. for it or If any where in the Land I laid Gold and bright Copper into the Ground and made as if I found it there and looked to and fro on the Earth as if I looked for such things they looked one on another and spake to each other some words but I could not perceive that they understood me or what I meant nor that they knew Gold or any other Metal they would gladly have had every thing they saw they tried to break the Boats Iron-grapenel with stones and would have carried it away I let them alone and observed their actions and behaviour which was very brutish they catched at every thing they could reach although I caused them to sit down and I put strings of Beads about their Necks still they desired more My Lieu●enant Peckett danced with them hand in hand and several of my Men did dance with them and made all the shew of Friendship as was possible My Lieutenant changed his Coat for one of theirs sor they desired it because it was red which co●our they much esteem I was in great hopes I might find Gold among them I gave them all the courteous respect I could After two hours Conference with them I made signs I would go and get more things and come again to them They went and would have us to Land again under a Cliff which I judge was their Design to heave stones into the Boat to sink her for the place was very convenient for such a purpose They set themselves down on the Grass and immediately set fire on the Grass on the side of the Bank by what means they got Fire so suddenly I could not understand I went and sounded the Channel between Elizabeth-Island and St. Bartholomew's-Island and found it a fair Channel to Sail through of a mile broad nearest and deep Water in the middle thirty eight Fathom and nine and ten Fathom near the Shore-side gravelly Sand. These People are of a middle stature both Men and Women and well-limbed and roundish Faced and well shaped and low Fore-headed their Noses of a mean size their Eyes of the mean and black they are smooth and even toothed and close set and very white small Ears their Hair is smooth flag Hair and very black and harsh on the fore-part even and round and the Locks of a mean length both Men and Women alike they are full Breasted they are tawny Olive-coloured and redded all over their Bodies with red Earth and Grease their Faces dawbed in spots down their Cheeks with white Clay and some black streaks with smut in no Method their Arms and Feet the like they have small Heads and short Fingers they are active in Body and nimble in going and running their Cloathing is pieces of Skins of Seals and Guianacoes and Otters skins sewed together and sewed soft their Garment is in form of a Carpet of about five feet square or according to the largeness of the Person this they wrap about their Bodies as a Scottish Man doth his Plading they have a Cap of the Skins of Fowls with the Feathers on they have about their Feet pieces of Skins tied to keep their Feet from the Ground they are very hardy People to endure cold for they seldom wear this loose Skin when they are stirring but are all naked of Body from Head to Feet and do not shrink for the Weather for it was very cold when I saw them and the Hills all cover'd with Snow they have no Hair on their Bodies nor Faces nor any thing to cover their privy Parts excepting some of the Women which had a Skin before them otherwise the Men and Women are cloathed alike only the Men have Caps and the Women none The Women wear Bracelets of Shells about their Necks the Men none the Men are somewhat larger than the Women in Stature and more fuller Fac'd the Men have a harsh Language and speak ratling in the Throat and gross the Women shiller and lower they pronounce the word Ursah but what it means I could not understand nor one word they spake if they did not like any thing they would cry Ur Ur ratling in their Throats their Food is what they can get either Fis or Flesh they are under no Government but every Man doth as he thinks fit for they had no respect to any one nor under any Obedience of any in this Company neither did they make any shew of
Worshipping any thing either Sun or Moon but came directly to us at our first going on Land making a noise and every Man his Bow ready strung and two Arrows a Man in their Hands their Bows are about an Ell long and their Arrows are near eighteen Inches long and neatly made of Wood and headed with Flint-stones neatly made broad-Arrow-fashion well fastned to the Arrow and the other end is feathered with two Feathers and tied on with the Gut of some Beast when it is green and moist the Bow-string is some twisted Gut These People have very large mungrel Dogs much like the race of Spanish Dogs and are of several colours I did not see any other domestick Creature they have neither could I at this time see their Boats for they lay at the other end of the Island next the Main they waited on this Island for an opportunity of fair Weather to go to the other Islands for Penguins there being great numbers of those Birds on the southermost of the three Islands and many other white-breasted Divers October 30. To Night I anchored in a small Bay in eleven fathom Water gravelly Ground half a mile off the Shore no Tide runs here as to thwart up a Ship the Water riseth and falls perpendicular ten Feet This Bay hath two Rivulets of fresh Water in it and good Timber-trees of eighteen Inches through and near forty Feet long the Wood is much lik a Beech here are wild Currant-trees and many such like Bushes the Woods are very thick and green and much old Wood lies on the Ground so as there is no travelling into the Woods I was a-shore looking to and fro here three hours I called this Fresh-water Bay this is near nine Leagues to the Southward of Sweepstakes Bay Sand-point is a mean low Point lies out more than the other Points of the Shore and few Trees grow on it It is six Leagues from Fresh-water Bay to Port Famen South and North from the one to the point of the other that nearest Port Famen cannot be seen as you come from the Northward till you come to bring the Point S. Anne up on the Northwest of you for the Bay lies up in a little hook North-west and the Land on the West-side of the Bay is low in a Point and sandy and some Grass grows on it and much drift-Wood lies on it like a Carpenters-yard a little within Land from the Water-side grow brave green Woods and up in the Valleys large Timber-trees two foot throughout and some upwards of 40 Feet long much like our Beech-timber in England the Leaves of the Trees are like green Birch-tree leaves curiously sweet the Wood shews in many places as if there were Plantations for there are several clear places in the Woods and Grass growing like fenc'd Fields in England the Woods being so even by the sides of it and on Point Saint Anne as you come sailing from the Northward you will see good Bushes and tall Trees grow on the very point of it This Point is rocky on the Shore-side but no danger lies or it you may be bold on it to get into Port Famen Bay Here is good Wooding and Watering and good catching of Fish with the Seyne or Net I haled above five hundred large Fishes a-shore at one hale much like to a Mullet all scaly Fishes here are many large Smelts or twenty Inches long and many Anchovies and some small made Scates Here is great plenty of Fish so much as we feed wholly on it and salt up much of the Mullets and Anchovies Here grow many Trees of good large Timber forty Inches through the Leaves are green and large much like Bay-tree Leaves in England the rind is grey on the out-side and pretty thick rined this Rind or Bark of these Trees if you chew it in your Mouth is hotter than Pepper and more quicker it is of a spicy smell when it is dry I cut of the Bark and made use of it in my Pease and other Provisions instead of Spice and found it very wholesom and good wee steeped it in our Water and drank it and it gave the Water a pretty flavor There grow of these Trees in the Woods in many places in the Streight on both Shores and on the Coasts on both sides of Patagonia before your enter them This may be the Winter-bark of the Shops which has an Aromatick pepper-like or spicy tast Port Famen lies in the Lat. of 53 d. 35 m. South and in Longitude West from the Lizard 68 d. 9 m. and Meridian distance 1092. Leagues West as my Account is in my Sailing this Voyage I give no credit to the plain Sailing therefore this Meridian distance signifies very little as to Navigation I travelled in many places but could not see any Fruit-trees or Oak or Ash or Hasel or any Timber like ours in England Here are but two sorts or Timber in all these Woods and one is the Pepper-rind Tree which is indifferent Wood and the other is the Timber much like Beech Here are the best and biggest Trees in all the Streights here are Trees of two foot and an half through and between thirty and forty feet long there may be great Planks cut out of them I could not see any grains of Metal of Mineral in any place and I looked very carefully in Gullies and places where Water had guttered Here are some Herbs to be plucked up as we boiled for Salleting and green Grass with it which relished pretty well The Land in the Woods is dry and of a gravelly and sandy Soil and some places good brown Earth it is bad travelling in the Woods for old Trees and Under-woods the Woods trent all up on the sides of the Hills the Land all about on the North-west and West of Port Famen trents up to very high Hills and the In-land is very high Hills for we can see the tops of them all barren and ragged peeping over those Mountains next to the Shore-side much Snow lies continually on them the Land on the South-shore is very high and peaked I saw many Ducks and brant-Geese on the Shore-sides and in the fresh Waters together with some Whales spouting in the main Channel I do verily believe that in these Mountains there is some Metal either Gold or Copper for the Man that went aboard pointed up to the Mountains and spake to me when I shewed him my Ring These People eat up the Provision which was carried to them and greased themselves all over with the Oil and greased their Skin-Coats with it I made signs to them to go and get some Gold and bring it to me some of them went away to their Boats the rest sat still on the Grass talking one to another and pointing to the Ship Their Language is much in the Throat and not very fluent but uttered with good deliberation I could not perceive but only the younger were obedient to the elder and the Women were in obedience to
firma not far from Cartagean The most Gold in all the Land of America is in Chile as what is known at this time But I find the Spaniards have but little knowledge of the Land all along to the Southward from Baldavia to the Streights Mouth as far as I can understand by them excepting at the Island of Castro There they have a Settlement and on the Main against Castro at a place called Orsono At these two places they have good store of Gold and there are many Indians but farther Southerly than Castro they know nothing of the Country or of the Sea-Coast Castro lieth in the Latitude of 43 d. 30 m. the South end of the Island and the North end lies in the Latitude of 41 d. 40 m. It is a fine Island and near the Main there grows good Wheat on it The Spaniards are but few in number there but there are many Indians and those too valiant and of a large stature but not Giants as I understand These Indians have Wars with the Spaniards and will not suffer them to search the Country for Wealth A Ship brought from Lima Provisions for the City of Baldavia and the Forts and Cloaths and Ammunition and Wines and Tobacco and Sugar and she lades away from Baldavia Gold and Bezoar Stone and red Wool c. and Indian Slaves that the Spaniards take here in these parts they carry them to Peru and make perpetual Slaves of them there and the Indians of Peru they bring hither and make Soldiers of them against the Chile-Indians of which Soldiers there are many hereabout whom my Men saw when they were at the Fort. There were about thirty Indians and Musteses Soldiers there and some sixteen white Men who were Officers Moreover the Spaniards make use of the Peru-Indians to Trade with the Chile-Indians for Gold although they are at Wars For they of Chile without doubt are desirous of Trade whereby they may furnish themselves with Knives and Scissers and Combs c. which are wanting among them as also with Arms that many times by stealth are sold to them although they be prohibited Traders will be dealing so as they can get benefit they do not consider the future danger by its means provided it miss them at the present I asked them how far it was to Baldavia they answered me three Leagues and that the Boats could go up to it and that it was situated by the side of the River and the Plains and that there were five great Ordnances in a Fort to command the City and that there were one thousand Inhabitants in the City of all sorts of Men Women and Children I asked him if there were any passage by Land from Baldavia to the other parts of Chile they said there was and they sent every Week but they went with good Guards to go secure from the Indians Then I asked them if they built Shipping here they said no but at Velperrazeo they did build great Ships I asked them who lived in the Island of Mocha they said Indians many Men and Women and that they were Poco amigo ' s to them in English they were but small Friends to the Spaniards There are many Sheep Goats Hogs and Hens which the Indians will sell for Hatchets Knives and Beads As to the Island of St. Mary the Spaniards are Masters of it and have a Fort on it with five Guns but few Spaniards live there it is plentiful of Provisions as Hogs and Sheep and Corn and Potatoes and they said there is some Gold that the Indians have on the Island of Mocha but they will not part from it The Spaniards did not care for answering me to such things as I would gladly have heard of these parts for I laid the Draught of all that Coast on the Table before them and asked them who lived at this Port and who lived at that at some places they would say the Spaniards lived there and at some the Indians but they did not care to answer my desires but frame other Discourses to wave mine I find that they are but little acquainted on the Coasts to the Southward of Baldavia they say they have Spaniards living on the Island of Castro and that much Corn grows there more especially European Wheat and that on the Main there are Spaniards living at a place called Orsono which is against Castro and that there they have Gold and there are many Indians I asked him if Shipping could go in between Castro and the Main they could not tell me or would not but they said some Ships went thither which come from Lima with Furniture for the People The Anchoring at the Island of Mocha is on the North-north-east part of it in a sandy Bay in eight Fathom Water near the Shore a North-east Wind is the worst Wind for the Road on the South-side of Mocha there lies a ledg of Rocks and some broken Rocks on that part of the Island scattered from the Shore The Anchoring at the Island of St. Mary is on the North-side in a fine sandy Bay in eight or nine Fathom Water a fine Birth from the Shore the North-north-west Wind is the worst Wind for that Road. There is Wood and fresh Water on both the Islands as the Spaniards report The Tides are but mean on the Coast and the Flood comes from the Southward and rise about eight or nine feet Water The Island of Mocha lies in the Lat. of 38 d. 30 m. South The Island of St. Mary lies in the Lat. of 37 d. 14 m. South They have Apples and Plums and Pears and Olives Apricocks Peaches Quinces Oranges Lemmons and many other Fruits There are also Musk-Melons and water-Melons c. These Spaniards report it to be the finest Country in the whole World and that the people live with the greatest Luxury of any on the Earth they enjoy their Health with so much delight and have so much Wealth and Felicity that they compare the Land to Paradise abounding above other Countries with all Delights for Mankind I saw a good Testimony of the healthiness of the Country for these four Men who are on Board are as well-complexioned Men as ever I saw in my days and the People a-shore both Men and Women of the Spaniards are well-complexioned People of a ruddy colour and seem to be mighty healthy Some of the Men are very corpulent and look as if they came from a very plentiful Country where there is great store of Provisions and abundance of Gold and Silver December 17. 1670. There went a-shore in the Boat eighteen of my best Men I had in the Ship and Men of good Observation to inspe● into matters of this Concern which I had acquainted them with as touching the manner of the Harbour and the Fortifications the Spaniards have and the disposition of the People and that it was my whole desire to have Conference with the Natives of the Country that are at Wars with the Spaniards if by
call the Chopping-Knife and if the Ice-field be hollow or spungy or full of holes in the middle so that the Whale can fetch breath underneath it and the Rope is not long enough to follow him and if the Ice be several miles long they draw the Rope in as much as possibly they can until it be streight and then he chops it off loosing the piece of the Rope whereon the Harpoon is fastened that sticketh in the Body of the Whale yet not without great loss for oftentimes they run away with the Lines that belong to five and more Sloops It happens very often that they run to the Ice with the Long-boats so that they dash against it as if they would break it into pieces which also very often happens But when the Whale rises again they oftentimes fling one or two more Harpoons into him according as they find he is tired more or less then he dives under Water again Some swim or run even all along on the Water and they play with their Tail and Finns so that we must have great care that we may not come too near them When the Whales fling their Tails about after this manner they wind the Line about their Tail so that we need not to fear the Harpoon tearing out for then they are ty'd strong and firm enough with the Rope After they are wounded they spout with all their might and main so that you may hear them as far off as you may a Cannon but when they are quite tired it cometh out only by drops for he hath not strength enough to force the Water up and therefore it sounds as if you held an empty Mug or Bottle under Water and the Water runs into it And this sound is a certain sign of his feebleness and that he is going to expire Some Whales blow Blood to the very last after they have been wounded and these dash the Men in the Long-boats most filthily and dye the Sloops as red as if they were painted with a red colour nay the very Sea is tinged red all along where they swim Those Whales that are mortally wounded heat themselves that they reek while they are alive and the Birds sit on them and eat on them while they are still alive When the Whales blow up the Water they fling out with it some fattish substance that floats upon the Sea like Sperm and this Fat the Mallemucks devour greedily of which several thousands attend him so that a Whale often hath more Attendants than a King hath Servants as you may see by T in the Tab. A. Sometimes also the Harpoons break out then often Long-boats of other Ships attend and as soon as they see that the Harpoon is come out they ●●ing their own into him and the Whale is theirs although the first Harpoon hath almost killed the whale yet if he doth get loose the second Party claims him and the first must look for another Sometimes at the same time two Harpoons belonging to two several Ships are struck into the Whale such ones are divided equally and each one hath half as you may see at MM in the Tab. A the other two or three or more Sloops as many as there is of them wait for the Whale's coming up again and when they see that he is tired they kill him outright with Launces In doing this is the greatest danger for the first that do ●●ing the Harpoon into him are drawn along by the Whale and are at a good distance from him but those that kill him with Launces are as well upon his Body as at his Sides according as the Whale turns and winds himself and they receive many severe Blows Here the Steersman must take care to observe how the Whale runs and turns himself about that the Harpoonier may reach him with his Launces all the other Men in the Sloops row diligently sometimes forwards and sometimes backwards which they call rowing on and striking and when the Whale lifts up himself out of the Water he commonly doth strike about with his Tail and Finns that the Water dasheth up like Dust A Long-boat he values no more than Dust for he can beat it all into shatters at a blow but a great Ship is too hard for him and if he strikes against it with his Tail he feels it more that the Ship for he doth so paint the Ship with his own Blood that it maketh him very feeble A good Steerman is next unto the Harpoonier most useful in the Sloop he steers with one Oar and doth look out before the other four Men turn their Back to the Head and look towards the Stern therefore doth the Steerman and Harpoonier always cry Row on or strike that is to say row near to the Whale or else keep farther off The Launces have a Wooden Stick or Handle above two fathoms long or somewhat shorter than a Pikestaff as in the Tab. Q. you may see at g the Iron thereof is commonly a fathom long and pointed before like unto a Pike it is made of Steel or tough Iron that it may bend without breaking for after you have made a deep hole in his Body with your Launces you poke into it with them one way and the other way as they do when they poke for Eels as you may see at Z in the Tab. A but if he doth get one or more out of your Hands you take another for every Sloop hath at least five six or seven and yet sometimes he has them all out of three four or more Boats sticking in his Body CHAP. IX What they do with the dead Whale AFter the Whale is killed they cut off his Tail some keep the Tail and Finns and hang them up at the outside of their Ship for that defends them from the Ice when it presseth upon the Ship The Tail hinders the Boat in its course because it doth lye cross and that is the reason why they cut it off Before the Tail they fasten to a piece of a Rope and at the other end at the Stern of the last Sloop as you may see in the Tab. A marked with W. There is in all four or five Sloops fastened to one another behind and so they row one behind the other to the great Ship When they have brought the Whale to the Ship they tye it with Ropes fast to the Ship that part where the Tail is cut off they fasten the fore-part of the Ship and the Head towards the Stern about the middle near the great Shrowds of the Mainmast on the Larboard of the Ship it is seldom that a Whale doth reach farther than from the Poop to the middle of the Ship except the Vessels are very small as you may see at X in the Tab. A. By the Larboard is to be understood that side of the Ship that is at your Right Hand as you go from before towards the Stern but that side of the Ship that is on your Right Hand as