strength it had how they were afraid of us there and of the accident that happen'd to them as is before mentioned in the 10th Chapter We took these two Vessels within 7 or 8 leagues of Manila Luconia I have spoken of already but I shall now add this further account of it It is a great Island taking up between 6 and 7 degrees of Lat. in length and its breadth near the middle is about 60 leagues but the ends are narrow The North end lies in about 19 d. North Lat. and the S. end in about 12 d. 30 m. This great Island hath abundance of small Keys or Islands lying about it especially at the North end The South side fronts towards the rest of the Philippine Islands of these that are its nearest Neighbours Mindora lately mentioned is the chief and gives name to the Sea or Streight that parts it and the other Islands from Luconia being called the Streights of Mindora A Prospect of y e Coast of y e I. Luconia near Manila at 6 L. off Shore y e highest Pike bearing East Thus the Islands Pulo Condor appear at 8 L. distance bearing South It is pretty well inhabited with Indians most of them if not all under the Spaniards who now are masters of it The Native Indians do live together in Towns and they have Priests among them to instruct them in the Spanish Religion Manila the chief or perhaps only City lies at the foot of a ridge of high Hills facing upon a spacious harbour near the S. W. point of the Island in about the Lat. of 14 d. North. It is environ'd with a high strong Wall and very well fortify'd with Forts and Breastworks The Houses are large strongly built and covered with Pan-tile The Streets are large and pretty regular with a Parade in the midst after the Spanish fashion There a great many fair Buildings besides Churches and other Religious houses of which there are not a few The Harbour is so large that some hundreds of Ships may ride here and is never without many both of their own and strangers I have already given you an account of the two Ships going and coming between this place and Acapulco Besides them they have some small Vessels of their own and they do allow the Portuguese to Trade here but the Chinese are the chiefest Merchants and they drive the greatest Trade for they have commonly 20 or 30 or 40 Jonks in the Harbour at a time and a great many Merchants constantly residing in the City beside Shop-keepers and Handy-crafts men in abundance Small Vessels run up near the Town but the Acapulco Ships and others of greater burthen lye a league short of it where there is a strong Fort also and Store-houses to put Goods in I had the major part of this relation 2 or 3 years after this time from Mr. Coppinger our Surgeon for he made a Voyage hither from Porta Nova a Town on the Coast of Coromandel in a Portugueze Ship as I think Here he found 10 or 12 of Captain Swan's men some of those that we left at Mindanao For after we came from thence they bought a Proe there by the instigation of an Irish-man who went by the name of John Fitz-Gerald a person that spoke Spanish very well and so in this their Proe they came hither They had been here but 18 months when Mr. Coppinger arrived here and Mr. Fitz-Gerald had in this time gotten a Spanish Mustesa Woman to Wife and a good Dowry with her He then professed Physick and Surgery and was highly esteemed among the Spaniards for his supposed Knowledge in those Arts For being always troubled with sore Shins while he was with us he kept some Plaisters and Salves by him and with these he set up upon his bare natural stock of knowledge and his Experience in Kibes But then he had a very great stock of confidence withal to help out the other and being an Irish Roman Catholick and having the Spanish Language he had a great advantage of all his Consorts and he alone lived well there of them all We were not within sight of this Town but I was shewn the Hills that over-looked it and drew a draft of them as we lay off at Sea which I have caused to be ingraven among a few others that I took my self See the Table The time of the year being now too far spent to do any thing here it was concluded to sail from hence to Pulo Condore a little parcel of Islands on the Coast of Cambodia and carry this prize with us and there careen if we could find any convenient place for it designing to return hither again by the latter end of May and wait for the Acapulco Ship that comes about that time By our Drafts which we were guided by being strangers to these parts this seemed to us then to be a place out of the way where we might lye snug for a while and wait the time of returning for our prey For we avoided as much as we could the going to lye by at any great place of Commerce lest we should become too much exposed and perhaps be assulted by a force greater than our own So having set our Prisoners ashore we sailed from Luconia the 26th day of Feb. with the Wind E. N. E. and fair weather and a brisk gale We were in lat 14d N. when we began to steer away for Pulo Condore and we steered S. by W. In our way thither we went pretty near the Shoals of Pracel and other Shoals which are very dangerous We were very much afraid of them but escaped them without so much as seeing them only at the very South end of the Pracel Shoals we saw 3 little sandy Islands or Spots of Sand standing just above water within a mile of us It was the 13th day of March before we came in sight of Pulo Condore or the Island Condore as Pulo signifies The 14th day about noon we anchored on the North side of the Island against a sandy Bay 2 mile from the shore in 10 fathom clean hard Sand with both Ship and Prize Pulo Condore is the principal of a heap of Islands and the only inhabited one of them They lye in lat 8 d. 40. m. North and about 20 leagues South and by East from the mouth of the River of Cambodia These Islands lye so near together that at a distance they appear to be but one Island Two of these Islands are pretty large and of a good heighth they may be seen 14 or 15 leagues at Sea the rest are but little Spots The biggest of the two which is the inhabited one is about 4 or 5 leagues long and lies East and West It is not above 3 mile broad at the broadest place in most places not above a mile wide The other large Island is about 3 mile long and half a mile wide This Island stretcheth N. and S. It is so conveniently placed at the West end
not altogether destitute of small Hills and every where of a moderate heighth and a Champion Country naturally very fit for Cultivation There is one Hill more remarkable than ordinary especially to Seamen The English call it the Golden Mount but whether this name is given it by the Natives or only by the English I know not 'T is near the N. W. end of the Island and Achin stands but 5 or 6 mile from the bottom of it 'T is very large at the foot and runs up smaller towards the head which is raised so high as to be seen at Sea 30 or 40 leagues This was the first Land that we saw coming in our Proe from the Nicobar Islands mentioned in my former Voyage The rest of the Land tho of a good heighth was then undiscerned by us so that this Mountain appeared like an Island in the Sea which was the Reason why our Achin Malayans took it for Pulo Way But that Island tho pretty high Champion Land was invisible when this Golden Mount appeared so plain tho as far distant as that Island Besides what belongs to Achin upon the Continent there are also several Islands under its Jurisdiction most of them uninhabited and these make the Road of Achin Among them is this Pulo Way which is the Easternmost of a Range of Islands that lye off the N. W. end of Sumatra It is also the largest of them and it is inhabited by Malefactors who are banisht thither from Achin This with the other Islands of this Range lye in a semicircular form of about 7 Leagues diameter Pulo Gomez is another large Island about 20 mile West from Pulo Way and about 3 Leagues from the N. W. point of Sumatra Between Pulo Gomez and the Main are 3 or 4 other small Islands yet with Channels of a sufficient breadth between them for Ships to pass through and they have very deep water All Ships bound from Achin to the Westward or coming from thence to Achin go in and out thro one or other of these Channels and because shipping comes hither from the Coast of Surrat one of these Channels which is deeper than the rest is called the Surrat Channel Between Pulo Gomez and Pulo Way in the bending of the Circle there are other small Islands the chief of which is called Pulo Rondo This is a small round high Island not a above 2 or 3 mile in circumference It lyes almost in the extremity of the bending on the N. E. part of the Circle but nearer Pulo Way than Pulo Gomez There are large deep Channels on either side but the most frequented is the Channel on the West side Which is called the Bengal Channel because it looks towards that Bay and Ships coming from thence from the Coast of Coromandel pass in and out this way Between Pulo Way and the Main of Sumatra is another Channel of 3 or 4 Leagues wide which is the Channel for Ships that go from Achin to the Streights of Malacca or any Country to the East of those Streights and vice versa There is good riding in all this Semicircular Bay between the Islands and Sumatra but the Road for all Ships that come to Achin is near the Sumatra Shore within all the Islands There they anchor at what distances they please according to the Monsoons or Seasons of the Year There is a small Navigable River comes out into the Sea by which Ships transport their Commodities in smaller Vessels up to the City The mouth of this River is 6 or 7 Leagues from Pulo Rondo and 3 or 4 from Pulo Way and near as many from Pulo Gomez The Islands are pretty high Champion Land the mould black or yellow the Soyl deep and fat producing large tall Trees fit for any uses There are brooks of water on the 2 great Islands of Way and Gomez and several sorts of wild Animals especially wild Hogs in abundance The Mold of this Continent is different according to the natural position of it The Mountains are Rocky especially those towards the West Coast yet most that I have seen seems to have a superficial covering of Earth naturally producing Shrubs small Trees or pretty good Grass The small Hills are most of them cloathed with Woods the Trees whereof seem by their growth to spring from a fruitful Soyl the Champion Land such as I have seen is some black some grey some reddish and all of a deep mold But to be very particular in these things especially in all my Travels is more than Ican pretend to tho it may be I took as much notice of the difference of Soil as I met with it as most Travellers have done having been bred in my youth in Somersetshire at a place called East Coker near Yeovil or Evil In which Parish there is as great variety of Soil as I have ordinarily met with any where viz. black red yellow sandy stony clay morass or swampy c. I had the more reason to take notice of this because this Village in a great measure is Let out in small Leases for Lives of 20 30 40 or 50 pound per Ann. under Coll. Helliar the Lord of the Mannor and most if not all these Tenants had their own Land scattering in small pieces up and down several sorts of Land in the Parish so that every one had some piece of every sort of Land his Black ground his Sandy Clay c. some of 20 30 or 40 Shillings an Acre for some uses and other not worth 10 groats an Acre My Mother being possest of one of these Leases and having of all these sorts of Land I came acquainted with them all and knew what each sort would produce viz. Wheat Barley Massin Rice Beans Peas Oats Fetches Flax or Hemp in all which I had a more than usual knowledge for one so young taking a particular delight in observing it but enough of this matter The Kingdom of Achin has in general a deep mould It is very well watered with Brooks and small Rivers but none navigable for Ships of burthen This of Achin admits not of any but small Vessels The Land is some part very woody in other places Savannah the Trees are of divers sorts most unknown to me by name The Cotton and Cabbage-trees grow here but not in such plenty as in some part of America These Trees commonly grow here as indeed usually where-ever they grow in a champion dry ground such at least as is not drowned or morassy for here is some such Land as that by the Rivers and there grow Mangrove Trees and other Trees of that kind Neither is this Kingdom destitute of Timber-trees fit for building The Fruits of this Country are Plantains Bonanoes Guava's Oranges Limes Jacks Durians Coco-nuts Pumple noses Pomgranates Mangoes Mangastans Citrons Water melons Musk-melons Pine-apples c. Of all these sorts of Fruits I think the Mangastan is without compare the most delicate This Fruit is in shape much like the Pomgranate but a
anchored on the North side of one of the sandy Islands the most convenient Place for his design Having got ashore his Cask to put his Oyl in and set up a Tent for lodging himself and his Goods he began to kill the Seal and had not wrought above three or four Days before a fierce North-wind blew his Bark ashore By good fortune she was not damnified but his company being but small and so despairing of setting her afloat again they fell to contriving how to get away a very difficult Task to accomplish for it was 24 or 25 Leagues to the nearest Place of the Main and above 100 Leagues to Trist which was the next English settlement But contrary to their expectation instead of that Captain Long bid them follow their Work of Seal-killing and making Oyl assuring them that he would undertake at his own peril to carry them safe to Trist. This though it went much against the grain yet at last he so far prevailed by fair Words that they were contented to go on with their Seal-killing till they had filled all their Cask But their greatest work was yet to do viz. how they should get over to the Main and then Coast down before the Wind to Trist. Their Boat was not big enough to transport them so they concluded to cut down the Barks Masts and rip up her Deck to make a float for that purpose This being agreed on the next Morning betimes pursuant to their Resolution they were going to break up their Vessel but it happened that very Night that two New-England Ketches going down to Trist ran on the backside of the Riff where they struck on the Rocks and were bulged And Captain Long and his Crew seeing them in Distress presently took their Boat and went off to help them unlade their Goods and bring them ashore and in requital they furnished the Captain with such tackle and other Necessaries as he wanted and assisted him in the launching his Vessel and lading his Oyl and so they went merrily away for Trist This lucky accident was much talk'd of amongst the C's Crew and so exasperated the New-England Men when they heard the whole story that they were thinking if their Commanders would have suffered them to have thrown him into the Sea to prevent his doing more mischief For they were sure that he by his Art had caused them to run aground The whole of this Relation I had from Captain Long himself From the main to these Islands the Sea deepens gradually till you come to about 30 Fathom Water and when you are 25 or 26 Leagues off shore to the Eastward of them if you steer away West keeping in that depth you cannot miss them The same Rule is to be observed to find any other Island as the Triangles the Isles Des Arenas c. for the Bank runs all along the shore on which are Soundings of equal depth and the Sea appears of a muddy palish Colour but when past the Bank on the North side of it it resumes its natural greeness and is too deep for any Sounding till you are within 30 Leagues of the North side of the Bay of Mexico where by relation there is such another Bank abounding with Oysters running all along the shore But to return to our Voyage Having spent 2 or 3 days among the Alcranes Islands we set sail again and steering in Southerly for the Main having the Wind at E. N. E. we fell in with it a little to Leeward of Cape Catoch plying under the shore till we reach'd the Cape from thence we continued our Course Northerly the Wind at E. by S. The next Land we designed for was Cape Antonio which is the Westermost Point of the Island Cuba and distant from Cape Catoch about 40 Leagues Some when they sail out of the Bay keep along by the Land of Jucatan till they come as far as the Island Cozumel and from thence stretch over towards Cuba and if the Wind favours them any thing they will get as high as Cape Corientes before they fall in with Cuba for in their Passage from thence they are not in so much danger of being hurried away to the North by the Current between the two Capes or to the North of them as we were For taking our Course Northward till the Lat. of 22 d. 30 m. we tack'd again and the Wind at E. steered away S. S. E. 24 hours and having taken an Observation of the Sun as we did the day before found our selves in 23 d. being driven backwards in 24 hours 30 Miles We had then the Channel open between the two Capes but to the North of either Yet at last we got over to the Cuba shore and fell in with the North of the Island about 7 or 8 Leagues from Cape Antonio Now we both saw and ran thro' some of the Colorado Sholes but found a very good Channel among a great many Rocks that appeared above Water Being thus got within the Sholes between them and Cuba we found a pretty wide clear Channel and good Anchoring and advancing further within a League of the Cape we Anchored and went ashore to get Water but found none In the Evening when the Land-wind sprung up we weighed again and doubling the Cape coasted along on the South side of the Island taking the Advantages both of Sea and Land-winds For though we had now been about two Months from Trist and this the time of the Year for Norths yet to our great trouble they had hitherto failed us and besides as I said before our Ketch was such a Leewardly Vessel that we did not yet expect we could possibly reach Jamaica meerly by turning though sometimes assisted by Sea and Land-Winds In about a Week after this we got up with and coasted along the Isle of Pines for 7 or 8 Leagues and then stood off to Sea and the third Morning fell in with the West end of grand Caymanes This Island is about 40 Leagues South from Pines and about 15 to the West of little Caymanes we anchored at the West end about half a Mile from the shore We found no Water nor any Provision but saw many Crocodiles on the Bay some of which would scarce stir out of the way for us We kill'd none of them which we might easily have done though Food began to be short withus indeed had it been in the Months of June or July we might probably have gotten Turtle for they frequent this Island some Years as much as they do little Caymanes We stayed here but 3 or 4 hours and steered back for Pines intending there to hunt for Beef or Hog of both which there is in great plenty The second day in the Morning we fell in with the West end of Pines and running about 4 or 5 Miles Northward we anchored in 4 Fathom Water clean Sand about two Mile from the shore and right-against a small Creek through the Mangroves into a wide Lagune The Isle of Pines lyes on the South side towards the West end of
Savannah with some large Palmeto-Trees growing in it The North side of the VVest end is full of Coco-Plum-Bushes and some Grapes The Coco-Plum-Bush is about 8 or 9 Foot high spreading out into many Branches It s Rind black and smooth the Leaves oval and pretty large and of a dark Green The Fruit is about the bigness of a Horse-Plum but round some are black some white others redish The Skin of the Plum is very thin and smooth the inside white soft and woolly rather fit to suck than bite inclosing in the middle a large soft Stone This Fruit grows commonly in tho Sand near the Sea and I have tasted some that have been saltish but they are commonly sweet and pleasant enough and accounted very wholsom The Body of the Grape-Tree is about two or three Foot in Circumference growing 7 or 8 Foot high then sends forth many Branches whose Twigs are thick and gross the Leaves are shaped much like an Ivy Leaf but broader and more hard the Fruit is as big as an ordinary Grape growing in Bunches or Clusters among the Twigs all over the Tree it is black when ripe and the inside redish with a large hard Stone in the middle This Fruit is very pleasant and wholsom but of little substance the Stones being so large The Body and Limbs of the Tree are good Fewel making a clear strong fire therefore often used by the Privateers to harden the Steels of their Guns when faulty The Animals of this Island are Lizards Guanoes Snakes and Dear Beside the Common small Lizard there is another sort of a large kind called a Lyon-Lizard This Creature is shaped much like the other but almost as big as a Man's Arm and it has a large Comb on its head when it is assaulted it sets its Comb up an end but otherways it lyes down flat Here are two or three sorts of Snakes some very large as I have been told At the West end of the Island close by the Sea you may dig in the Sand 5 or 6 Foot deep and find good fresh Water There are commonly VVells ready made by Seamen to water their Ships but they soon fill up if not cleared and if you dig too deep your VVater will be salt This Island was seldom clear of Inhabitants when the English visited the Bay for Logwood for the biggest Ships did always ride here in 6 or 7 Fathom Water close by the Shore but smaller Vessels ran up 3 Leagues farther to One-Bush-Key of which in my former Chapter The second Mouth or Entrance into this Lagune is between Trist and Beef-Island and is about 3 Mile wide It is shoal without and only two Channels to come in The deepest Channel on a Spring Tide has 12 Foot Water It lyes near the middle of the Mouth hard Sand on the Barr the West Channel is about 10 Foot Water and lies pretty near Beef-Island You run in with the Sea-Breez and sound all the way taking your Sounding from Beef-Island shore The bottom is soft Oaz and it shoots gradually Being shot in within Beef-Island Point you will have three fathom then you may stand over towards Trist till you come near the Shore and there Anchor as you please There is good Anchoring any where within the Bar between Trist and Beef-Island but the Tide is much stronger than at Port-Royal This is the other Mouth or opening to the Salt Lagune before-mentioned This Lagune is call'd by the Spaniards Laguna Termina or the Lagune of Tides because they run very strong here Small Vessels as Barks Periagoes or Canoas may sail thro' this Lagune from one Mouth to the other or into such Creeks Rivers or smaller Lagunes as empty themselves into this of which here are many The first of Note on the East part of this Lagune as you come in at Port-Royal is the River Summasenta This River though but small yet it is big enough for Pereagoes to enter It disembogues on the South side near the middle of the Lagune There was formerly an Indian Village named Summasenta near the Mouth of the River and another large Indian Town called Chucquebul 7 or 8 Leagues up in the Country This latter was once taken by the Privateers by whom I have been informed that there were about 2000 Families of Indians in it and two or three Churches and as many Spanish Friers though no white Men beside The Land near this River yields plenty of Logwood From Summasenta River to One-Bush-Key is 4 or 5 Leagues the shore running West I have described One-Bush-Key and the Creek against it which as I said is very narrow and not above a Mile long before it opens into another wide Lake lying nearest N. and S. called the East Lagune It is about a League and half wide and 3 Leagues long encompassed with Mangrove-Trees At the S. E. corner of it there is another Creek about a Mile wide at the Mouth running 6 or 7 Mile into the Country on both sides of it grows plenty of Logwood therefore it was inhabited by Englishmen who lived in small Companies from three to ten in a Company and settled themselves at their best Convenience for Cutting At the Head of the Creek they made a path leading into a large Savanah full of black Cattle Horses and Deer which was often visited by them upon occasion At the North end and about the middle of the East Lagune there is another small Creek like that which comes out against One-Bush-Key but less and shallower which dischargeth it self into Laguna Termina against a small sandy Key called by the English Serles's Key from one Captain Serles who first carried his Vessel here and was afterwards killed in the Western Lagune by one of his company as they were cutting Logwood together This Captain Serles was one of Sir Henry Morgans Commanders at the Sacking of Panama who being sent out to cruise in a small Vessel in the South Seas happened to surprize at Toboca the Boatswain and most of the Crew belonging to the Trinity a Spanish Ship on Board which were the Friers and Nuns with all the old Gentlemen and Matrons of the Town to the number of 1500 Souls besides an immense Treasure in Silver and Gold as I was informed by Captain Peralta who then Commanded her as he did afterwards when she was taken by Captain Sharp all which he might have taken in the Ship had he pursued her On the West side of the East Lagune there is a small Skirt of Mangroves that separates it from another running Parallel with it called the East Lagune which is about the bigness of the former Towards the North end of this Laguue runs a small Creek coming out of the East Lagune deep enough for small Barks to pass through At the South end of this Lagune there is a Creek about a Mile wide at its Mouth and half a Mile from thence it divides into two Branches one called the East the other the West Branch both deep
my Course for Jamaica and found the N. E. Corner to lye in Lat. 18 d. North and in Longi West from Tobago 13 d. The Meridian distance from Tobago is 749 Miles VVest In our passage we saw no Land or Island till we made the N. E. end of Jamaica which lyeth in Longi VVest from the Meridian of Lundy 64 d. 10 m. and VVest from the City of Loango 82 d. 18 m. I shall only add that I am of Opinion that the Gallopagos Islands do lye a great deal further to the VVestward than our Hydrographers do place them according as Mr. Dampier hints p. 100 of his Voyage round the World I am Portbury Octob. 20. 1698. SIR Your most humble Servant John Covant Part of a second Letter from Captain Covant dated from Bristol Decemb. 10. 1697. LETTER II. SIR YOurs of the 6th Instant came to my Hands with the enclosed Queries which I shall endeavour to answer in part as far as my memory will assist me being now from home and at a distance from my Journals c. 1. The Common Trade-Winds on the Coast of Angola blow from the S. VV. to South till about 12 d. Long. from the Meridian of the Isle of Lundy 2. I have found them always in the same Quarter and not subject to shift in all the time I have used this Coast except that at a small distance off the shore they are sometimes a Point more to the VVestward 3. The Dry Season on this Coast I observed to be from the latter end of April to September tho' sometimes intermix'd with some pleasant showers of Rain I cannot be so punctual as to the time of the Wet Seasons 4. The true Sea-Breez I have commonly found here to be from W. S. W. to VV. by S. if it be fair Weather and the Land Breez is at E. by N. But if a Tornado happens it causes the Winds to shift all round the Compass and at last it settles at S. VV. which is the former true Trade Wind. I am yours John Covant CHAP. VI. Of Storms Storms less frequent but more fierce between the Tropicks Presages of their coming Of Norths the Times and Places where they blow Signs of their approach N. Banks A Chocolatta North. A North beneficial to Ships going from Campeachy to Jamaica A very uncommon way of wearing a Ship in a North. Of Souths the Times and Places where they Blow A Description of a South at Jamaica and at the Bay of Campeachy Much Fish kill'd by that Storm Of Hurricanes A Description of a terrible one at Antegoe where abundance of Fish and Sea Fowles were destroyed by it The difference between North Banks and the Clouds before an Hurricane the latter adorned with radiant Colours Tuffoons in the East-Indies the same with Hurricanes in the West Of Monsoons in the East-Indies A Storm called by the Portuguese the Elephanta which is the violentest Monsoon of that Season STorms within the Tropicks are generally known to us by some Name or other to distinguish them from other common Winds and though Storms are not so frequent there as they are in Latitudes nearer the Poles yet are they nevertheless expected yearly in their proper Months and when they do come they blow exceeding fierce though indeed some years they do not come at all or at least do not blow with that fierceness as at other times And as these Winds are commonly very fierce so are they but of a short continuance in comparison with Storms that we meet with in higher Latitudes In the West Indies there are three sorts viz. Norths Souths and Hurricanes In the East-Indies there are only two sorts viz. Monsoones and Tuffoones All these sorts of violent Storms except the Norths are expected near one time of the year and this is taken notice of by those that have been in any of them that they give certain Presages of their being at hand several hours before they come Norths are violent Winds that frequently blow in the Bay of Mexico from October till March They are chiefly expected near the full or change of the Moon all that time of the year but they are most violent in December and January These Winds are not confined to the Bay of Mexico only but there they are most frequent and rage with the greatest Violence They blow on the North side of Cuba very fierce too and in the Gulph of Florida as also about Hispaniola Jamaica c. and in the Channel between Jamaica and Portabel and in all the West Indian Sea between the Islands and the Main as high as the Island Trinidado But from Jamaica Eastward except on the North side of the Island Hispaniola they blow no harder than a pretty brisk Sea Wind. They are here at W. N. W. or N. W. though in the Bay of Mexico they blow strongest at N. N. W. and this is the Season of Westerly Winds in these East parts of the West-Indies as I have before noted in the third Chapter of this Discourse I shall be most particular of them that blow in the Bay of Mexico and what Signs they give us before hand Commonly before a North the Weather is vety serene and fair the Sky clear and but little Wind and that too veering from its proper Point or the common Trade Wind of the Coast and breathing gently at S. at S. W. and West a Day or two before the North comes The Sea also gives notice of a Storm by an extraordinary and long Ebb. For a Day or two before a North there will be hardly any discernable Flood but a constant ebbing of the Sea And the Sea Fowls also before a Storm do commonly hover over the Land which they do not at other times use to do in such great flights and numbers All these Signs concurring may give any Man notice of an approaching Storm but the greatest and most remarkable Sign of a North is a very black Cloud in the N. W. rising above the Horizon to about 10 or 12 degrees the upper edge of the Cloud appears very even and smooth and when once the upper part of the Cloud is 6 8 10 or 12 degrees high there it remains in that even form parallel to the Horizon without any motion and this sometimes 2 or 3 Days before the Storm comes At other times not above 12 or 14 hours but never less This Cloud lying so near the Horizon is not seen but in the Mornings or Evenings at least it does not appear so black as then this is called by English Seamen a North Bank and when ever we see such a Cloud in that part of the World and in the Months before mentioned we certainly provide for a Storm and though sometimes it may happen that such a Cloud may appear several Mornings and Evenings and we may not feel the effects of it or but very little yet we always provide against it for a North never comes without such a foreboding Cloud But if the VVinds
big as a Turkey wherewith we treated our Guides for we brought no Provision with us This night our last Slave run away The eleventh day we marched 10 mile farther and built Hutts at night but went supperless to bed The twelfth in the morning we crossed a deep River passing over it on a Tree and marched 7 mile in a low swampy ground and came to the side of a great deep River but could not get over We built Hutts upon its Banks and lay there all night upon our Barbecu's or frames of Sticks raised about 3 foot from the ground The thirteenth day when we turned out the River had overflowed its Banks and was 2 foot deep in our Hutts and our Guides went from us not telling us their intent which made us think they were returned home again Now we began to repent our haste in coming from the last settlements for we had no food since we came from thence Indeed we got Macaw-berries in this place wherewith we satisfied our selves this day though coursly The fourteenth day in the morning betimes our Guides came to us again and the Waters being fallen within their bounds they carry'd us to a Tree that stood on the Bank of the River and told us if we could fell that Tree cross it we might pass if not we could pass no further Therefore we set two of the best Ax-men that we had who fell'd it exactly cross the River and the bows just reached over on this we passed very safe We afterwards crossed another River three times with much difficulty and at 3 a Clock in the afternoon we came to an Indian settlement where we met a drove of Monkeys and kill d 4 of them and stayed here all night having marched this day 6 miles Here we got Plantains enough and a kind reception of the Indian that lived here all alone except one boy to wait on him The fifteenth day when we set out the kind Indian and his boy went with us in a Canoa and set us over such places as we could not ford and being past those great Rivers he returned back again having helped us at least 2 mile We marched afterwards 5 mile and came to large Plantain walks where we took up our quarters that night we there fed plentifully on Plantains both ripe and green and had fair weather all the day and night I think these were the largest Plantains walks and the biggest Plantains that ever I saw but no house near them We gathered what we pleased by our Guides orders The sixteenth day we marched 3 mile and came to a large settlement where we abode all day Not a man of us but wisht the Journey at an end our Feet being blistered and our Thighs stript with wading through so many Rivers the way being almost continually through Rivers or pathless Woods In the afternoon five of us went to seek for game and kill'd 3 Monkeys which we drest for Supper Here we first began to have fair Weather which continued with us till we came to the North Seas The eighteenth day we set out at 10 a Clock and the Indians with 5 Canoas carried us a league up a River and when we landed the kind Indians went with us and carried our burthens We marched 3 mile farther and then built our Hutts having travelled from the last settlements 6 miles The nineteenth day our Guides lost their way and we did not march above 2 miles The twentieth day by 12 a Clock we came to Cheapo River The Rivers we crost hitherto run all into the South Seas and this of Cheapo was the last we met with that run that way Here an old man who came from the last settlements distributed his burthen of Plantains amongst us and taking his leave returned home Afterward we forded the River and marched to the foot of a very high Mountain where we lay all night This day we marched about 9 miles The 21st day some of the Indians returned back and we marched up a very high mountain being on the top we went some miles on a ridge and steep on both sides then descended a little and came to a fine Spring where we lay all night having gone this day about 9 miles the weather still very fair and clear The 22d day we marched over another very high Mountain keeping on the ridge 5 miles When we came to the North end we to our great comfort saw the Sea then we descended and parted our selves into 3 Companies and lay by the side of a River which was the first we met that runs into the North Sea The 23d day we came through several large Plantain walks and at 10 a Clock came to an Indians habitation not far from the North Sea Here we got Canoas to carry us down the River Conception to the Sea side having gone this day about 7 miles We found a great many Indians at the mouth of this River They had settled themselves here for the benefit of Trade with the Privateers and their Commodities were Yams Potatoes Plantains Sugar Canes Fowls and Eggs. These Indians told us that there had been a great many English and French Ships here which were all gone but one Barco-longo a French Privateer that lay at La Sound 's Key or Island This Island is about 3 leagues from the mouth of the River Conception and is one of the Samballoes a range of Islands reaching for about 20 leagues from point Samballas to Golden-Island Eastward These Islands or Keys as we call them were first made the Rendezvous of Privateers in the year 1679 being very convenient for careening and had names given to some of them by the Captains of the Privateers as this La-Sound s Key particularly Thus we finished our Journey from the South Sea to the North in 23 days in which time by my account we travelled 110 miles crossing some very high Mountains but our common march was in the Valleys among deep and dangerous Rivers At our first landing in this Country we were told that the Indians were our Enemies we knew the Rivers to be deep the wet season to be coming in yet excepting those we left behind we lost but one man who was drowned as I said Our first landing place on the South Coast was very disadvantageous for we travelled at least 50 miles more than we need to have done could we have gone up Cheapo River or Santa Maria River for at either of these places a man may pass from Sea to Sea in 3 days time with ease The Indians can do it in a day and a half by which you may see how easy it is for a party of men to travel over I must confess the Indians did assist us very much and I question whether ever we had got over without their assistance because they brought us from time to time to their Plantations where we always got Provision which else we should have wanted But if a party of 500 or 600 men or more were
down in Lat. 12 d. 16 m. It is about 20 leagues from the Main and 9 or 10 from Querisao and is accounted 16 or 17 leagues round The Road is on the S. W. side near the middle of the Island where there is a pretty deep Bay runs in Ships that come from the Eastward luff up close to the Eastern shore and let go their Anchor in 60 fathom water within half a Cables length of the shore But at the same time they must be ready with a Boat to carry a Hasar or Rope and make it fast ashore otherwise when the Land-wind comes in the night the Ship would drive off to Sea again for the ground is so steep that no Anchor can hold if once it starts About half a mile to the Westward of this Anchoring place there is a small low Island and a Channel between it and the main Island The Houses are about half a mile within Land right in the Road There is a Governour lives here a Deputy to the Governor of Querisao and 7 or 8 Soldiers with 5 or 6 Families of Indians There is no Fort and the Soldiers in peaceable times have little to do but to eat and sleep for they never watch but in time of War The Indians are Husband-men and plant Maiz and Guinea Corn and some Yames and Potatoes But their chiefest business is about Cattle for this Island is plentifully stocked with Goats and they send great quantities every year in Salt to Querisao There are some Horses and Bulls and Cows but I never saw any Sheep though I have been all over the Island The South side is plain low Land and there are several sorts of Trees but none very large There is a small Spring of water by the Houses which serves the Inhabitants though it is brackish At the West end of the Island there is a good Spring of Fresh water and 3 or 4 Indian Families live there but no Water nor Houses at any other place On the South side near the East-end is a good Salt-pond where Dutch Sloops come for Salt From Bon-Airy we went to the Isle of Aves or Birds so called from its great plenty of Birds as Men of War and Boobies but especially Boobies The Booby is a Water-fowl somewhat less than a Hen of a light greyish colour I observ'd the Boobies of this Island to be whiter than others This Bird hath a strong Bill longer and bigger than a Crows and broader at the end her Feet are flat like a Ducks Feet It is a very simple creature and will hardly go out of a mans way In other places they build their Nests on the ground but here they build on Trees which I never saw any where else tho I have seen of them in a great many places Their Flesh is black and eats Fishy but are often eaten by the Privateers Their numbers have been much lessen'd by the French Fleet which lay here till it was lost as I shall give an account The Man of War as it is called by the English is about the bigness of a Kite and in shape like it but black and the Neck is red It lives on Fish yet never lights on the Water but soars aloft like a Kite and when it sees its prey it flys down head foremost to the waters edge very swiftly takes his prey out of the Sea with his Bill and immediately mounts again as swiftly and never touching the Water but with his Bill His Wings are very long His Feet are like other Land-Fowl and he builds on Trees where he finds any but where they are wanting on the ground This Island Aves lies about 8 or 9 leagues to the Eastward of the Island Bon-airy about 14 or 15 leagues from the Main and about the lat of 11d 45m North. It is but small not above 4 mile in length and towards the East end not half a mile broad On the North side it is low Land commonly overflown with the Tide but on the Southside there is a great Rocky Bank of Coral thrown up by the Sea The West end is for near a mile space plain even Savanah Land without any Trees There are 2 or 3 Wells dug by Privateers who often frequent this Island because there is a good Harbor about the middle of it on the North side where they may conveniently careen The Riff or Bank of Rocks on which the French Fleet was lost as I mentioned above runs along from the East end to the Northward about 3 mile then tends away to the Westward making as it were a Half Moon This Riff breaks off all the Sea and there is good riding in even sandy ground to the Westward of it There are 2 or 3 small low sandy Keys or Islands within this Riff about 3 miles from the Main Island The Count de Estree lost his Fleet here in this manner Coming from the Eastward he fell in on the back of the Riff and fired Guns to give warning to the rest of his Fleet But they supposing their Admiral was engaged with Enemies hoised up their Topsails and crowded all the Sail they could make and ran full sail ashore after him all within half a mile of each other For his Light being in the Main Top was an unhappy Beacon for them to follow and there escaped but one Kings-ship and one Privateer The Ships continued whole all day and the Men had time enough most of them to get ashore yet many perished in the Wreck and many of those that got safe on the Island for want of being accustomed to such hardships died like rotten Sheep But the Privateers who had been used to such accidents lived merrily from whom I had this relation and they told me that if they had gone to Jamaica with 30 l. a Man in their Pockets they could not have enjoyed themselves more For they kept in a Gang by themselves and watched when the Ships broke to get the Goods that came from them and though much was staved against the Rocks yet abundance of Wine and Brandy floated over the Riff where these Privateers waited to take it up They lived here about 3 weeks waiting an opportunity to transport themselves back again to Hispaniola in all which time they were never without 2 or 3 Hogsheads of Wine and Brandy in their Tents and Barrels of Beef and Pork which they could live on without Bread well enough tho the new-comers out of France could not There were about 40 Frenchmen on board in one of the Ships where there was good store of Liquor till the after part of her broke away and floated over the Riff and was carry'd away to Sea with all the men drinking and singing who being in drink did not mind the danger but were never heard of afterwards In a short time after this great Shipwrack Captain Pain Commander of a Privateer of 6 Guns had a pleasant accident befel him at this Island He came hither to Careen intending to fit
sooner to mutiny than want which we could not well suffer in a place where there are such quantities of these Animals to be had if Men could be perswaded to be contented with them In the afternoon we sailed from Lobos de Terra with the Wind at S. by E. and arrived at Lobos de la Mar on the 19th day Here we found a Letter left by our Bark that was sent to seek Captain Eaton by which we understood that Captain Eaton had been there but was gone before they arriv'd and had left no Letter to advise us which way he was gone and that our Bark was again returned to Plata in hopes to find us there or meet us by the way else resolving to stay for us there We were sorry to hear that Captain Eaton was gone for now we did not expect to meet with him any more in these Seas The 21st day we sent out our Moskito Strikers for Turtle who brought aboard enough to serve both Ships Companies and this they did all the time that we abode here While we lay at this Island Captain Swan made new yards squarer than those he had before and made his Sails larger and our Ships Company in the mean time split plank for Fire-wood and put aboard as many plank as we could conveniently stow for other uses Here being plank enough of all sorts which we had brought hither in the first Prize that we took and left here The 26th day in the evening we saw a small Bark about 3 leagues N. N. W. from the Island but we supposing her to be our own Bark did not go after her The next morning she was 2 leagues South of the Island standing off to Sea but we did not now chace her neither although we knew she was not our Bark for being to Windward of us she could have made her escape if we had chased her This Bark as we were afterward informed was sent out purposely to see if we were at this Island Her orders were not to come too near only to appear in sight they supposing that if we were here we should soon be after her as indeed it was a wonder we had not chaced her but our not doing so and lying close under the Island undiscern d by them was a great occasion of our coming upon Puna afterwards unexpectedly they being now without fear of any Enemy so near them The 28th day we scrubb d our Ships bottoms intending to sail the next day towards Guiaquil it being concluded upon to attempt that Town before we returned again to Plata Accordingly on the 29th day in the morning we loosed from hence steering directly for the Bay of Guiaquil This Bay runs in between Cape Blanco on the South side and Point Chandy on the North. About 25 leagues from Cape Blanco near the bottom of the Bay there is a small Island called Santa Clara which lies East and West It is of an indifferent length and it appears like a dead Man stretched out in a Shroud The East end represents the Head and the West end the Feet Ships that are bound into the Riveâ—… of Guiaquil pass on the South side to avoid the sholes which lie on the North side of it whereon formerly Ships have been lost It is reported by the Spaniards that there is a very rich Wreck lies on the North side of that Island not far from it and that some of the Plate hath been taken up by one who came from Old Spain with a Patent from the King to fish in those Seas for Wrecks but he dying the Project ceas'd and the Wreck still remains as he left it only the Indians by stealth do sometimes take up some of it and they might have taken up much more if it were not for the Catfish which swarm hereabouts The Catfish is much like a Whiting but the Head is flatter and bigger It hath a great wide Mouth and certain small Strings pointing out from each side of it like Cats Whiskers and for that reason it is called a Catfish It hath three Fins one growing on the top of his back and one on either side Each of these Fins hath a stiff sharp bone which is very venemous if it strikes into a mans flesh therefore it is dangerous diving where many of these Fish are The Indians that adventured to search this wreck have to their sorrow experienc'd it some having lost their lives others the use of their limbs by it this we were informed by an Indian who himself had been fishing on it by stealth I my self have known some white men that have lost the use of their hands only by a small prick with the fin of these Fish therefore when we catch them with a Hook we tread on them to take the Hook out of their mouths for otherwise in flurting about as all Fish will when first taken they might accidentally strike their sharp Fins into the hands of those that caught them Some of these Fish are 7 or 8 pound weight some again in some particular places are none of them bigger than a Man's Thumb but their Fins are all alike venemous They use to be at the mouths of Rivers or where there is much Mud and Oaze and they are found all over the American Coast both in the North and South Seas at least in the hot Countreys as also in the East Indies where sailing with Captain Minchin among certain Islands near the Streights of Malacca he pointed to an Island at which he told me he lost the use of his hand by one of these only in going to take the Hook out of its mouth The wound was scarce visible yet his Hand was much swoln and the pain lasted about 9 weeks during most part of which the raging heat of it was almost ready to distract him However though the bony Fins of these Fish are so venemous yet the Bones in their bodies are not so at least we never perceived any such effect in eating the Fish and their Flesh is very sweet delicious and wholesome Meat From the Island Santa Clara to Punta Arena is 7 leagues E. N. E. This Punta Arena or Sandy Point is the westermost point of the Island Puna Here all Ships bound into the River of Guiaquil anchor and must wait for a Pilot the entrance being very dangerous for Strangers The Island Puna is a pretty large flat low Island stretching East and West about 12 or 14 leagues long and about 4 or 5 leagues wide The Tide runs very strong all about this Island but so many different ways by reason of the Branches Creeks and Rivers that run into the Sea near it that it casts up many dangerous sholes on all sides of it There is in the Island only one Indian Town on the South side of it close by the Sea and 7 leagues from Point Arena which Town is also called Puna The Indians of this Town are all Seamen and are the only Pilots in these Seas especially for
Besides this present from the Governour there was a Captain of a Jonk sent two Jars of Arack and abundance of Pine-apples and Water-melons Captain Read sent ashore as a Present to the Governour a curious Spanish Silver-hilted Rapier an English Carbine and a Gold Chain and when the Officer went ashore three Guns were fired In the afternoon the Governour sent off the same Officer again to complement the Captain for his civility and promised to retaliate his kindness before we departed but we had such blustring weather afterward that no Boat could come aboard We stayed here till the 29th day and then sailed from hence with the wind at S. W. and pretty fair weather We now directed our course for some Islands we had chosen to go to that lye between Formosa and Luconia They are laid down in our plots without any name only with a figure of 5 denoting the number of them It was supposed by us that these Islands had no Inhabitants because they had not any name by our Hydographers Therefore we thought to lye there secure and be pretty near the Island Luconia which we did still intend to visit In going to them we sailed by the South West end of Formosa leaving it on our larboard side This is a large Island the South end is in lat 21 d. 20 m. and the North end in 25 d. 10 m. North lat the longitude of this Isle is laid down from 142 d. 5 m. to 143 d. 16 m. reckoning East from the pike of Tenariffe so that 't is but narrow and the Tropick of Cancer crosses it It is a high and woody Island and was formerly well inhabited by the Chinese and was then frequently visited by English Merchants there being a very good Harbour to secure their Ships But since the Tartars have conquered China they have spoiled the Harbour as I have been informed to hinder the Chinese that were then in Rebellion from fortifying themselves there and ordered the foreign Merchants to come and trade on the Main The 6th day of August we arrived at the five Islands that we were bound to and anchored on the East side of the Northermost Island in 15 fathom a Cables length from the shore Here contrary to our expectation we found abundance of Inhabitants in sight for there were 3 large Towns all within a league of the Sea and another larger Town than any of the three on the back side of a small hill close by also as we found afterwards These Islands lye in lat 20 d. 20 m. North lat by my observation for I took it there and I find their Longitude according to our Drafts to be 141 d. 50 m. These Islands having no particular Names in the Drafts some or other of us made use of the Seamens priviledge to give them what names we pleased Three of the Islands were pretty large the Westermost is the biggest This the Dutch men who were among us called the Prince of Orange's Island in honour of his present Majesty It is about 7 or 8 leagues long and about 2 leagues wide and it lies almost N. and S. The other two great Islands are about 4 or 5 leagues to the Eastward of this The Northermost of them where we first anchored I called the D. of Grafton's Isle as soon as we landed on it having married my Wife out of his Dutchess's Family and leaving her at Arlington house at my going aboard This Isle is about 4 leagues long and one league and a half wide stretching North and South The other great Isle our Seamen called the Duke of Monmouth's Island This is about a league to the Southward of Grafton Isle It is about 3 leagues long and a league wide lying as the other Between Monmouth and the South end of Orange Island there are two small Islands of a roundish form lying East and West The Eastermost Island of the two our men unanimously called Bashee Island from a Liquor which we drank there plentifully every day after we came to an anchor at it The other which is the smallest of all we called Goat Island from the great number of Goats there and to the Northward of them all are two high Rocks Orange Island which is the biggest of them all is not inhabited It is high Land flat and even on the top with steep cliffs against the Sea for which reason we could not go ashore there as we did on all the rest I have made it my general observation that where the Land is fenced with steep Rocks and Cliffs against the Sea there the Sea is very deep and seldom affords anchor ground and on the other side where the Land falls away with a declivity into the Sea altho the Land be exrraordinary high within yet there are commonly good soundings and consequently anchoring and as the visible declivity of the Land appears near or at the edge of the Water whether pretty steep or more sloping so we commonly find our anchor ground to be more or less deep or steep therefore we came nearer the shore or anchor farther off as we see convenient for there is no Coast in the World that I know or have heard of where the Land is of a continual heighth without some small Valleys or declivities which lye intermixt with the high Land They are these subsidings of Valleys or low Lands that make dents in the shore and Creeks small Bays and Harbours or little Coves c. which afford good anchoring the surface of the Earth being there lodged deep under Water Thus we find many good Harbours on such Coasts where the Land bounds the Sea with steep Clifs by reason of the Declivities or subsiding of the Land between these Cliffs But where the Declension from the Hills or Cliffs is not within Land between Hill and Hill but as on the Coast of Chili and Peru the Declivity is toward the Main Sea or into it the Coast being perpendicular or very steep from the neighbouring Hills as in those Countries from the Andes that run along the shore there is a deep Sea and few or no Harbours or Creeks All that Coast is too steep for anchoring and hath the fewest Roads fit for Ships of any Coast I know The Coasts of Gallicia Portugal Norway and Newfoundland c. are Coasts like the Peruvian and the high Islands of the Archipelago but yet not so scanty of good Harbours for where there are short Ridges of Land there are good Bays at the extremities of those Ridges where they plunge into the Sea as on the Coast of Caraccos c. The Island of John Fernando and the Island St. Helena c. are such high Land with deep shore and in general the plunging of any Land under Water seems to be in proportion to the rising of its continuous part above Water more or less steep and it must be a bottom almost level or very gently declining that affords good anchoring Ships being soon driven from their Moorings on
men that was left ashore I shall speak more of him hereafter He and the rest of them told me that after the Ship was out of sight the Natives began to be more kind to them than they had been before and perswaded them to cut their Hair short as theirs was offering to each of them if they would do it a young Woman to Wife and a small Hatchet and other Iron Utenfils fit for a Planter in Dowry and withal shewed them a piece of Land for them to manage They were courted thus by several of the Town where they then were but they took up their head-quarters at the house of him with whom they first went ashore When the Ship appeared in sight again then they importuned them for some Iron which is the chief thing that they covet even above their Ear-rings We might have bought all their Ear-rings or other Gold they had with our Iron-bars had we been assur'd of its goodness and yet when it was touch'd and compared with other Gold we could not discern any difference tho it look'd so pale in the lump but the seeing them polish it so often was a new discouragement This last Storm put our Men quite out of heart for although it was not altogether so fierce as that which we were in on the Coast of China which was still fresh in memory yet it wrought more powerfully and frighted them from their design of cruising before Manila fearing another Storm there Now every Man wisht himself at home as they had done an hundred times before but Captain Reed and Captain Teat the Master perswaded them to go towards Cape Comorin and then they would tell them more of their minds intending doubtless to cruize in the Red Sea and they easily prevailed with the Crew The Eastern Monsoon was now at hand and the best way had been to go through the Streights of Malacca but Captain Teat said it was dangerous by reason of many Islands and Shoals there with which none of us were acquainted Therefore he thought it best to go round on the East side of all the Philippine Islands and so keeping South toward the Spice Islands to pass out into the East Indian Ocean about the Island Timor This seemed to be a very tedious way about and as dangerous altogether for Sholes but not for meeting with English or Dutch Ships which was their greatest fear I was well enough satisfied knowing that the farther we went the more Knowledge and Experience I should get which was the main thing that I regarded and should also have the more variety of places to attempt an Escape from them being fully resolv'd to take the first opportunity of giving them the slip CHAP. XVI They depart from the Bashee Islands and passing by some others and the N. End of Luconia St. John's Isle and other of the Philippines they stop at the two Isles near Mindanao where they re-fit their Ship and make a Pump after the Spanish fashion By the young Prince of the Spice-Island they have News of Captain Swan and his men left at Mindanao The Author proposes to the Crew to return to him but in vain the story of his Murder at Mindanao The Clove-Islands Ternate Tidore c. The Island Celebes and Dutch Town of Macasser They Coast along the East side of Celebes and between it and other Islands and Sholes with great Difficulty Shy Turtle Vast Cookles A wild Vine of great Virtue for Sores Great Trees one excessively big Beacons instead of Buoys on the Sholes A Spout a Description of them with a story of one Uncertain Tornadoes Turtle The Island Bouton and its chief Town and Harbour Callasusung The Inhabitants Visits given and receiv'd by the Sultan His Device in the Flag of his Proe his Guards Habit and Children Their Commerce Their different esteem as they pretend of the English and Dutch Maritime Indians sell others for Slaves Their Reception in the Town A Boy with 4 Rows of Teeth Parakites Crockadores a sort of White Parrots They pass among other Inhabited Islands Omba Pentare Timor c. Sholes New-Holland laid down too much Northward It s Soil and Dragon trees The poor Winking Inhabitants their Features Habit Food Arms c. The way of fetching Fire out of Wood. The Inhabitants on the Islands Their Habitations Unfitness for Labour c. The great Tides here They design for the Island Cocos and Cape Comorin THE third day of October 1687. we sailed from these Islands standing to the Southward intending to sail through among the Spice Islands We had fair weather and the wind at West We first steered S. S. W. and passed close by certain small Islands that lye just by the North end of the Island Luconia We left them all on the West of us and past on the East side of it and the rest of the Philippine Islands coasting to rhe Southward The N. East end of the Island Luconia appears to be good Champion Land of an indifferent heighth plain and even for many leagues only it has some pretty high Hills standing upright by themselves in these Plains but no ridges of Hills or chains of Mountains joyning one to another The Land on this side seems to be most Savannah or Pasture The S. E. part is more Mountainous and Woody Leaving the Island Luconia and with it our Golden projects we sailed on the Southward passing on the East side of the rest of the Philippine Islands These appear to be more Mountainous and less Woody till we came in sight of the Island St. John the first of that name I mentioned the other I spake of on the Coast of China This I have already described to be a very woody Island Here the Wind coming Southerly forced us to keep farther from the Islands The 14th day of October we came close by a small low Woody Island that lyeth East from the S. E. end of Mindanao distant from it about 20 leagues I do not find it set down in any Sea-Chart The 15th day we had the Wind at N. E. and we steered West for the Island Mindanao and arrived at the S. E. end again on the 16th day There we went in and anchored between two small Islands which lye in about 5 d. 10 m. N. Lat. I mentioned them when we first came on this Coast. Here we found a fine small Cove on the N. W. end of the Eastermost Island fit to Careen in or hale ashore so we went in there and presently unrigged our Ship and provided to hale our Ship ashore to clean her bottom These Islands are about 3 or 4 leagues from the Island Mindanao they are about 4 or 5 miles in circumference and of a pretty good heighth The mold is black and deep and there are two small Brooks of fresh Water They are both plentifully stored with great high Trees therefore our Carpenters were sent ashore to cut down some of them for our use for here they made a new Boltsprit
which we did set here also our old one being very faulty They made a new Fore-Yard too and a Fore Top-Mast and our Pumps being faulty and not serviceable they did cut a Tree to make a Pump They first squared it then sawed it in the middle and then hollowed each side exactly The two hollow sides were made big enough to contain a Pump-box in the midst of them both when they were joyned together and it required their utmost skill to close them exactly to the making a tight Cylinder for the Pump-box being unaccustomed to such work We learnt this way of Pump-making from the Spaniards who make their Pumps that they use in their Ships in the South Seas after this manner and I am confident that there are no better Hand-pumps in the world than they have While we lay here the young Prince that I mentioned in Chapter the 13th came aboard He understanding that we were bound farther to the Southward desired us to transport him and his Men to his own Island He shewed it to us in our Draft and told us the Name of it which we put down in our Draft for it was not named there but I quite forgot to put it into my Journal This Man told us that not above 6 days before this he saw Captain Swan and several of his Men that we left there and named the Names of some of them who he said were all well and that now they were at the City of Mindanao but that they had been all of them out with Raja Laut fighting under him in his Wars against his Enemies the Alfoores and that most of them fought with undaunted Courage for which they were highly honored and esteemed as well by the Sultan as by the General Raja Laut That now Captain Swan intended to go with his Men to Fort St. George and that in order thereto he had proffered 40 ounces of Gold for a Ship but the Owner and he were not yet agreed and that he feared that the Sultan would not let go away till the Wars were ended All this the Prince told us in the Malayan tongue which many of us had learnt and when he went away he promised to return to us again in 3 days time and so long Captain Reed promised to stay for him for we had now almost finished our business and he seem'd very glad of the opportunity of going with us After this I endeavoured to perswade our Men to return with the Ship to the River of Mandanao and offer their service again to Captain Swan I took an opportunity when they were filling of Water there being then half the Ships Company ashore and I found these all very willing to do it I desired them to say nothing till I had tried the minds of the other half which I intended to do the next day it being their turn to fill Water then but one of these Men who seemed most forward to invite back Captain Swan told Captain Read and Captain Teat of the project and they presently disswaded the Men from any such designs Yet fearing the worst they made all possible haste to be gone I have since been informed that Captain Swan and his Men stayed there a great while afterward and that many of the Men got passage from thence in Dutch Sloops to Ternate particularly Mr. Rofy and Mr. Nelly There they remained a great while and at last got to Batavia where the Dutch took their Journals from them and so to Europe and that some of Captain Swan's Men died at Mindanao of which number Mr. Harthope and Mr. Smith Captain Swan's Merchants were two At last Captain Swan and his Surgeon going in a small Canoa aboard of a Dutch Ship then in the Road in order to get passage to Europe were overset by the Natives at the Mouth of the River who waited their coming purposely to do it but unsuspected by them where they both were kill'd in the Water This was done by the General 's Order as some think to get his Gold which he did immediately seize on Others say it was because the General 's House was burnt a little before and Captain Swan was suspected to be the Author of it and others say that it was Captain Swan's Threats occasioned his own Ruine for he would often say passionately that he had been abused by the General and that he would have satisfaction for it saying also that now he was well acquainted with their Rivers and knew how to come in at any time that he also knew their manner of fighting and the Weakness of their Country and therefore he wou'd go away and get a Band of Men to assist him and returning thither again he would spoil and take all that they had and their Country too When the General has been informed of these discourses he would say What is Captain Swan made of Iron and able to resist a whole Kingdom Or does he think that we are afraid of him that he speaks thus Yet did he never touch him till now the Mindanayans kill'd him It is very probable there might be somewhat of truth in all of this for the Captain was passionate and the General greedy of Gold But whatever was the occasion so he was kill'd as several have assured me and his Gold seiz'd on and all his things and his Journal also from England as far as Cape Corrientes on the Coast of Mexico This Journal was afterwards sent away from thence by Mr. Moody who was there both a little before and a little after the Murder and he sent it to England by Mr. Goddard Chief Mate of the Defence But to our purpose seeing I could not perswade them to go to Captain Swan again I had a great desire to have had the Prince's company but Captain Read was afraid to let his fickle crew lye long That very day that the Prince had promised to return to us which was November 2. 1687. we sailed hence directing our course South West and having the Wind at N. W. This Wind continued till we came in sight of the Island Celebes then it veered about to the W. and to the Southward of the West We came up with the N. E. end of the Island Celebes the 9th day and there we found the current setting to the Westward so strongly that we could hardly get on the East side of that Island The Island Celebes is a very large Island extended in length from North to South about 7 degrees of lat and in breadth it is about 3 degrees It lies under the Equator the North end being in lat 1 d. 30 m. North and the South end in lat 5 d. 30 m. South and by common account the North point in the bulk of this Island lies nearest North and South but at the North East end there runs out a long narrow point stretching N. E. about 30 leagues and about 30 leagues to the Eastward of this long Slipe is the Island Gilolo on the West
side of which are 4 small Islands close by it which are very well stored with Cloves The two chiefest are Ternate and Tidore and as the Isle of Ceylon is reckoned the only place for Cinnamon and that of Banda for Nutmegs so these are thought by some to be the only Clove Islands in the World but this is a great error as I have already shewn At the South end of the Island Celebes there is a Sea or Gulph of about 7 or 8 leagues wide and 40 or 50 long which runs up the Countrey almost directly to the North and this Gulph hath several small Islands along the middle of it On the West side of the Island almost at the South end of it the Town of Macasser is seated A Town of great Strength and Trade belonging to the Dutch There are great Inlets and Lakes on the East side of the Island as also abundance of small Islands and sholes lying scattered about it We saw a high peeked Hill at the N. end but the Land on the East side is low all along for we cruized almost the length of it The mold on this side is black and deep and extraordinary fat and rich and full of Trees and there are many Brooks of Water run out into the Sea Indeed all this East side of the Island seems to be but one large Grove of extraordinary great high Trees Having with much ado got on this East side coasting along to the Southward and yet having but little Wind and even that little against us at S. S. W. and sometimes Calm we were a long time going about the Island The 22d day we were in Lat. 1 d. 20 m. South and being about 3 leagues from the Island standing to the Southward with a very gentle Land wind about 2 or 3 a clock in the morning we heard a clashing in the Water like Boats rowing and fearing some sudden attack we got up all our Arms and stood ready to defend our selves As soon as it was day we saw a great Proe built like the Mindanayan Proe's with about 60 men in her and 6 smaller Proe's They lay still about a mile to Windward of us to view us and probably design'd to make a prey of us when they first came out but they were now afraid to venture on us At last we shewed them Dutch Colours thinking thereby to allure them to come to us for we could not go to them but they presently rowed in toward the Island and went into a large opening and we saw them no more nor did we ever see any other Boats or Men but only one fishing Canoa while we were about this Island neither did we see any House on all the Coast. About 5 or 6 leagues to the South of this place there is a great Range of both large and small Islands and many shoals also that are not laid down in our Drafts which made it extreamly troublesom for us to get through But we past between them all and the Island Celebes and anchored against a sandy Bay in 8 fathom sandy ground about half a mile from the main Island being then in lat 1 d. 50 m. South Here we stayed several days and sent out our Canoas a striking of Turtle every day for here is great plenty of them but they were very shy as they were generally where-ever we found them in the East India Seas I know not the reason of it unless the Natives go very much a striking here for even in the West Indies they are shy in places that are much disturbed and yet on New Holland we found them shy as I shall relate though the Natives there do not molest them On the sholes without us we went and gathered Shell-fish at low water There were a monstrous sort of Cockles the Meat of one of them would suffice 7 or 8 Men. It was very good wholsom Meat We did also beat about in the Woods on the Island but found no game One of our Men who was always troubled with sore Legs found a certain Vine that supported it self by climbing about other Trees The leaves reach'd 6 or 7 feet high but the strings or branches 11 or 12. It had a very green leaf pretty broad and roundish and of a thick substance These leaves pounded small and boiled with Hogs Lard make an excellent Salve Our Men knowing the vertues of it stockt themselves here there was scarce a Man in the Ship but got a pound or two of it especially such as were troubled with old Ulcers who found great benefit by it This Man that discovered these leaves here had his first knowledge of them in the Isthmus of Darien he having had this Receipt from one of the Indians there and he had been ashore in divers places since purposely to seek these leaves but did never find any but here Among the many vast Trees hereabouts there was one exceeded all the rest This Captain Read caused to be cut down in order to make a Canoa having lost our Boats all but one small one in the late Storms so 6 lusty Men who had been Logwood cutters in the Bays of Campeachy and Honduras as Captain Read himself and many more of us had and so were very expert at this work undertook to fell it taking their turns 3 always cutting together and they were one whole day and half the next before they got it down This Tree though it grew in a Wood was yet 18 foot in circumference and 44 foot of clean body without knot or branch and even there it had no more than one or two branches and then ran clean again 10 foot higher there it spread it self into many great limbs and branches like an Oak very green and flourishing yet it was perisht at the heart which marr'd it for the service intended So leaving it and having no more business here we weighed and went from hence the next day it being the 29th day of November While we lay here we had some Tornadoes one or two every day and pretty fresh Land Winds which were at West The Sea breezes were small and uncertain sometimes out of the N. E. and so veering about to the East and South East We had the Wind at North East when we weighed and we steered off S. S. W. In the afternoon we saw a shole a head of us and altered our course to the S. S. E. In the evening at 4 a clock we were close by another great shole therefore we tackt and stood in for the Island Celebes again for fear of running on some of the sholes in the night By day a Man might avoid them well enough for they had all Beacons on them like Huts built on tall Posts above high-water mark probably set up by the Natives of the Island Celebes or those of some other neighbouring Islands and I never saw any such elsewhere In the night we had a violent Tornado out of the S. W. which lasted about an hour The 30th day
or 8 leagues from the Island Sumatra on the West side of it we saw abundance of Coco Nuts swimming in the Sea and we hoysed out our Boat and took up some of them as also a small Hatch or Scuttle rather belonging to some Bark The Nuts were very sound and the Kernel sweet and in some the Milk or Water in them was yet sweet and good The 13th day we came to a small Island called Triste in Lat. by observation 4 d. South it is about 14 or 15 leagues to the West of the Island Sumatra From hence to the Northward there are a great many small uninhabited Islands lying much at the same distance from Sumatra This Island Triste is not a mile round and so low that the Tide flows clear over it It is of a sandy soil and full of Coco-nut Trees The Nuts are but small yet sweet enough full and more ponderous than I ever felt any of that bigness notwithstanding that every Spring-tide the Salt water goes clear over the Island We sent ashore our Canoas for Coco-nuts and they return'd aboard laden with them three times Our Strikers also went out and struck some Fish which was boiled for Supper They also killed 2 young Aligators which we salted for the next day I had no opportunity at this place to make my Escape as I would have done and gone over hence to Sumatra could I have kept a Boat with me But there was no compassing this and so the 15th day we went from hence steering to the Northward on the West side of Sumatra Our Food now was Rice and the Meat of the Coco-nuts rasped and steep'd in water which made a sort of Milk into which we did put our Rice making a pleasant Mess enough After we parted from Triste we saw other small Islands that were also full of Coco-nut Trees The 19th day being in Lat. 3 d. 25 m. S. the S. W. point of the Island Nassau bore N. about 5 mile dist This is a pretty large uninhabited Island in Lat. 3 d. 20 m. S. and is full of high Trees About a mile from the Island Nassau there is a small Island full of Coco-nut Trees There we anchored the 20th day to replenish our stock of Coco-nut Trees A 〈◊〉 riff of Rocks lies almost round this Island so that our Boats could not go ashore nor come aboard at low water yet we got aboard 4 Boat loads of Nuts This Island is low like Triste and the anchoring is on the North side where you have 14 fathom a mile from shore clean sand The 21st day we went from hence and kept to the Northward coasting still on the West side of the Island Sumatra and having the winds between the W. and S. S. W. with unsettled weather sometimes Rains and Tornadoes and sometimes fair weather The 25th day we crost the Equator still coasting to the Northward between the Island Sumatra and a range of small Islands lying 14 or 15 leagues off it Among all these Islands Hog Island is the most considerable It lies in lat 3 d. 40. m. North. It is pretty high even Land cloathed with tall flourishing Trees we past by it the 28th day The 29th we saw a sail to the North of us which we chased but it being little wind we did not come up with her till the 30th day Then being within a league of her Captain Read went in a Canoa and took her and brought her aboard She was a Proe with 4 men in her belonging to Achin whither she was bound She came from one of these Coco-nut Islands that we past by and was laden with Coco-nuts and Goco-nut Oil. Captain Read ordered his men to take aboard all the Nuts and as much of the Oyl as he thought convenient and then cut a hole in the bottom of the Proe and turned her loose keeping the men Prisoners It was not for the lucre of the Cargo that Captain Read took this Boat but to hinder me and some others from going ashore for he knew that we were ready to make our escapes if an opportunity presented it self and he thought that by his abusing and robbing the Natives we should be afraid to trust our selves among them But yet this proceeding of his turned to our great advantage as shall be declared hereafter May the 1st we ran down by the North West end of the Island Sumatra within 7 or 8 leagues of the shore All this West side of Sumatra which we thus coasted along our Englishmen at Fort St. George call the West Coast simply without adding the name of Sumatra The Prisoners who were taken the day before shewed us the Islands that lye off of Achin Harbour and the Channels through which Ships go in and told us also that there was an English Factory at Achin I wisht my self there but was forced to wait with patience till my time was come We were now directing our course towards the Nicobar Islands intending there to clean the Ship 's bottom in order to make her sail well The 4th day in the evening we had sight of one of the Nicobar Islands The Southermost of them lies about 40 leagues N. N. W. from rhe N. W. end of the Island Sumatra This most Southerly of them is Nicobar it self but all the cluster of Islands lying South of the Audeman Islands are called by our Seamen the Nicobar Islands The Inhabitants of these Islands have no certain converse with any Nation but as Ships pass by them they will come aboard in their Proes and offer their Commodities to sale never inquiring of what Nation they are for all white people are alike to them Their chiefest Commodities are Ambergrease and Fruits Ambergrease is often found by the Native Indians of these Islands who know it very well as also know how to cheat ignorant Strangers with a certain mixture like it Several of our men bought such of them for a small purchase Captain Weldon also about this time touched at some of these Islands to the North of the Island where we lay and I saw a great deal of such Ambergrease that one of his men bought there but it was not good having no smell at all Yet I saw some there very good and fragrant At that Island where Captain Weldon was there were 2 Fryers sent thither to convert the Indians One of them came away with Captain Weldon the other remained there still He that came away with Captain Weldon gave a very good character of the Inhabitants of that Island viz. that they were very honest civil harmless People that they were not addicted to Quarrelling Theft or Murder that they did marry or at least live as Man and Wife one Man with one Woman never changing till Death made the separation that they were punctual and honest in performing their Bargains and that they were inclined to receive the Christian Religion This Relation I had afterwards from the mouth of a Priest at Tonqueen who told me that he
detestation on actions which before I disliked but now I trembled at the remembrance of I had long before this repented me of that rovingcourse of life but never with such concern as now I did also call to mind the many miraculous acts of Gods Providence towards me in the whole course of my life of which kind I believe few men have met with the like For all these I returned thanks in a peculiar manner and this once more desired Gods assistance and composed my mind as well as I could in the hopes of it and as the event shew'd I was not disappointed of my hopes Submitting our selves therefore to Gods good providence and taking all the care we could to preserve our lives Mr. Hall and I took turns to steer and the rest took turns to heave out the Water and thus we provided to spend the most doleful night I ever was in About 10 a clock it began to Thunder Lighten and Rain but the Rain was very welcom to us having drank up all the Water we brought from the Island The Wind at first blew harder than before but within half an hour it abated and became more moderate and the Sea also asswaged of its fury and then by a lighted Match of which we kept a piece burning on purpose we looked on our Compass to see how we steered and found our course to be still East We had no occasion to look on the Compass before for we steered right before the Wind which if it had shifted we had been obliged to have altered our couse accordingly But now it being abated we found our Vessel lively enough with that small sail which was then aboard to hale to our former course S. S. E. which accordingly we did being now in hopes again to get to the Island Sumatra But about 2 a clock in the morning of the 19th day we had another gust of Wind with much Thunder Lightening and Rain which lasted till day and obliged us to put before the Wind again steering thus for several hours It was very dark and the hard Rain soaked us so throughly that we had not one dry thread about us The Rain chill'd us extreamly for any fresh water is much colder than that of the Sea For even in the coldest Climates the Sea is warm and in the hottest Climates the Rain is cold and unwholesome for mans body In this wet starveling plight we spent the tedious night Never did poor Mariners on a Lee-shore more earnestly long for the dawning light than we did now At length the day appeared but with such dark black Clouds near the Horizon that the first glimpse of the Dawn appeared 30 or 40 degrees high which was dreadful enough for it is a common saying among Sea-men and true as I have experienced that a high dawn will have high winds and a low dawn small winds We continued our course still East before Wind and Sea till about 8 a clock in the morning of this 19th day and then one of our Malayan friends cryed out Pulo Way Mr. Hall and Ambrose and I thought the fellow had said Pull away an expression usual among English Sea-men when they are Rowing And we wonder'd what he meant by it till we saw him point to his consorts and then we looking that way saw Land appearing like an Island and all our Malayans said it was an Island at the N. W. end of Sumatra called Way for Pulo Way is the Island Way We who were dropping with wet cold and hungry were all overjoyed at the sight of the Land and presently marked its bearing It bore South and the Wind was still at West a strong gale but the Sea did not run so high as in the night Therefore we trimmed our small Sail no bigger than an Apron and steered with it Now our Outlagers did us a great kindness again for although we had but a small sail yet the Wind was strong and prest down our Vessels side very much but being supported by the Outlagers we could brook it well enough which otherwise we could not have done About noon we saw more Land beneath the supposed Pulo Way and steering towards it before night we saw all the Coast of Sumatra and found the errours of our Achinese for the high Land that we first saw which then appeared like an Island was not Pulo Way but a great high Mountain on the Island Sumatra called by the English the Golden Mountain Our Wind continued till about 7 a clock at night then it abated and at 10 a clock it died away and then we stuck to our Oars again though all of us quite tired with our former fatigues and hardships The next morning being the 20th day we saw all the low Land plain and judged our selves not above 8 leagues off About 8 a clock in the morning we had the Wind again at West a fresh gale and steering in still for the Shore at 5 a clock in the afternoon we run to the mouth of a River on the Island Sumatra called Passange Jonca It is 34 leagues to the Eastward of Achin and 6 leagues to the West of Diamond Point which makes with 3 Angles of a Rhombus and is low Land Our Malayans were very well acquainted here and carried us to a small fishing Village within a mile of the Rivers mouth called also by the name of the River Passange Jonca The hardships of this Voyage with the scorching heat of the Sun at our first setting out and the cold Rain and our continuing wet for the last two days cast us all into Fevers so that now we were not able to help each other nor so much as to get our Canoa up to the Village but our Malayans got some of the Townsmen to bring her up The news of our arrival being noised abroad one of the Oramkai's or Noblemen of the Island came in the night to see us We were then lying in a small Hut at the end of the Town and it being late this Lord only viewed us and having spoken with our Malayans went away again but he returned to us again the next day and provided a large house for us to live in till we should be recovered of our sickness ordering the Towns-people to let us want for nothing The Achinese Malayans that came with us told them all the circumstances of our Voyage how they were taken by our Ship and where and how we that came with them were Prisoners aboard the Ship and had been set ashore together at Nicobar as they were It was for this reason probably that the Gentlemen of Sumatra were thus extraordinary kind to us to provide every thing that we had need of nay they would force us to accept of Presents from them that we knew not what to do with as young Buffaloes Goats c. for these we would turn loose at night after the Gentlemen that gave them to us were gone for we were prompted by our Achinese Consorts to
observed his Method in curing the Horse which was this First he strok'd the sore Place then applying to it a little rough Powder which looked like Tobacco Leaves dryed and crumbled small mumbling some Words to himself he blew upon the part three times and waving his Hands as often over it said it would be well speedily His Fee for the Cure was a White Cock Then coming to me and looking on the Worm in my Ancle he promised to cure it in three Days demanding also a White Cock for his pains and using exactly the same Method with me as he did with the Horse He bad me not open it in three Days but I did not stay so long for the next Morning the Cloath being rubb'd off I unbound it and found the Worm broken off and the Hole quite healed up I was afraid the remaining part would have given some trouble but have not felt any pain there from that day to this To return I told you how I was interrupted in following my Work by the Worms breeding in my Leg. And to compleat my misfortune presently after we had the most violent Storm for above 24 Hours that ever was known in these Parts An Account of which I shall give more particularly in my Discourse of Winds and shall now only mention some Passages I have already said we were four of us in Company at this Place cutting Logwood and by this Storm were reduced to great Inconveniencies for while that lasted we could dress no Victuals nor even now it was over unless we had done it in the Canoa for the highest Land near us was almost 3 Foot under Water besides our Provision too was most of it spoiled except the Beef and Pork which was but little the worse We had a good Canoa large enough to carry us all and seeing it in vain to stay here any longer we all embarked and rowed away to One-Bush-Key about 4 Leagues from our Huts There were 4 Ships riding here when the Storm began but at our arrival we found only one and hoped to have got some Refreshment from it but found very cold entertainment For we could neither get Bread nor Punch nor so much as a Dram of Rum though we offered them Money for it The Reason was they were already over-charged with such as being distressed by the Storm had been forced to take Sanctuary with them seeing we could not be supplied here we asked which way the other three Ships were driven they told us that Capt. Prout of New-England was driven towards Trist and 't was probable he was carried out to Sea unless he stuck on a Sand called the Middle Ground that Capt. Skinner of New-England was driven towards Beef-Island and Captain Chandler of London drove away towards Man-of-War Lagune Beef-Island lies North from One-Bush-Key but the other two Places lie a little on each side One to the East the other to the West So away we went for Beef-Island and coming within a League of it we saw a Flag in the Woods made fast to a Pole and placed on the Top of a high Tree And coming still nearer we at last saw a Ship in the Woods about 200 Yards from the Sea We rowed directly towards her and when we came to the Woods side found a pretty clear Passage made by the Ship through the Woods the Trees being all broke down And about three Foot Water Home to the Ship We rowed in with our Canoa and went Aboard and were kindly Entertained by the Seamen but the Captain was gone Aboard Captain Prout who stuck fast on the middle Ground before-mentioned Captain Prout's Ship was afterwards got off again but the Stumps of the Trees ran clear through the bottom of Captain Skinner's therefore there was no hope of saving her Here we got Victuals and Punch and stayed about two Hours in which time the Captain came Aboard and invited us to stay all Night But hearing some Guns fired in Man-of-War Lagune we concluded that Captain Chandler was there and wanted assistance Therefore we presently rowed away thither for we could do no Service here and before Night found him also stuck fast on a Point of Sand. The Head of his Ketch was dry and at the Stern there was above 4 Foot Water Our coming was very seasonable to Captain Chandler with whom we stayed two Days in which time we got out all his Goods carried off his Anchor c. and so not being able as yet to do him more Service we left him for the present and went away to hunt at Beef-Island At Trist were four Vessels riding before this Storm one of them was driven off to Sea and never heard of afterwards Another was cast dry upon the shore where she lay and was never got off again But the third rode it out Another was riding without the Bar of Trist and she put to Sea and got to New-England but much shattered About three days before this Storm began a small Vessel Commanded by Captain Vally went hence bound to Jamaica This Vessel was given for lost by all the Logwood-Cutters but about 4 Months after she returned thither again and the Captain said he felt nothing of the Storm but when he was about 30 Leagues to Wind-ward of Trist he had a fresh Summasenta-Wind that carried him as high as Cape Condecedo but all the time he saw very black Clouds to the Westward Beef-Island is about 7 Leagues long and 3 or 4 broad It lies in length East and West The East end looks toward the Island Trist and is low drowned Land and near the Sea produceth nothing but white and black Mangrove-Trees The North side lies open to the Main Sea running straight from East to West The Eastermost part for about three Leagues from Trist is Low and Mangrovy at the end of which there is a small salt Creek deep enough at high Water for Boats to pass From this Creek to the West end is 4 Leagues all sandy Bay closed on the backside with a low Sand-bank abounding with thick prickly Bushes like a White-thorn bearing a whitish hard Shell-Fruit as big as a Sloe much like a Calla-bash The West end is washed with the River St. Peter St. Paul This end is over-grown with red Mangroves About 3 Leagues up from the Mouth of this River shoots forth a small Branch running to the Eastward and dividing Beef-Island form the Main on the South and afterwards makes a great Lake of fresh Water called Fresh Water Lagune This afterward falls into a Salt Lake called Man-of-War Lagune which emptys it self into Laguna Termina about 2 Leagues from the S. E. Point of the Island The inside or middle of this Island is a Savannah bordered all round with Trees most Mangrovy either black white or red with some Logwood The South side between the Savannahs and the Mangroves is very rich Sometimes this Land lyes in Ridges higher than the Savannahs The Savannahs produce plenty of long Grass and the Ridges
and those of our Colonies abroad yet without neglecting others that occurr'd And it may suffice me to have given such Names and Descriptions as I could I shall leave to those of more leisure and opportunity the trouble of comparing these with those which other Authors have designed The Reader will find as he goes along some References to an Appendix which I once designed to this Book as to a Chapter about the Winds in different parts of the World to a Description of the Bay of Campeachy in the West Indies where I lived long in a former Voyage and to a particular Chorographical Description of all the South Sea Coast of America partly from a Spanish MSS and partly from my own and other Travellers Observations beside those contained in this Book But such an Appendix would have swelled it too unreasonably and therefore I chose rather to publish it hereafter by its self as opportunity shall serve And the same must be said also as to a particular Voyage from Achin in the Isle of Sumatra to Tonquin Malacca c. which should have been inserted as a part of this General one but it would have been too long and therefore omitting it for the present I have carried on this next way from Sumatra to England and so made the Tour of the World correspondent to the Title For the better apprehending the Course of the Voyage and the Situation of the Places mentioned in it I have caused several Maps to be engraven and some particular Draughts of my own Composure Among them there is in the Map of the American Isthmus a new Scheme of the adjoining Bay of Panama and its Islands which to some may seem superfluous after that which Mr Ringrose hath published in the History of the Buccaneers and which he offers as a very exact Draught I must needs disagree with him in that and doubt not but this which I here publish will be found more agreeable to that Bay by any who shall have opportunity to examine it for it is a Contraction of a larger Map which I took from several Stations in the Bay itself The Reader may judge how well I was able to do it by my several Traverses about it mentioned in this Book those particularly which are described in the 7th Chapter which I have caused to be marked out with a pricked Line as the Course of my Voyage is generally in all the Maps for the Readers more easy tracing it I have nothing more to add but that there are here and there some mistakes made as to expression and the like which will need a favourable Correction as they occur upon Reading For instance the Log of Wood lying out at some distance from the sides of the Boats described at Guam and parallel to their Keel which for distinctions sake I have called the little Boat might more clearly and properly have been called the side Log or by some such Name for though fashioned at the bottom and ends Boat-wise yet it is not hollow at top but solid throughout In other places also I may not have expressed my self so fully as I ought and upon a Review I find there are several escapes either of mine or the Printers such as I have thought any thing considerable I have corrected in a Table of Errata and for any other faults I leave the Reader to the joint use of his Judgment and Candour THE CONTENTS THE Introduction containing the Author's Departure from England into the West Indies and the South Seas to the time of his leaving Captain Sharp Chap. I. His Return out of the South Seas to his Landing at the Isthmus of America II. His Return by Land over the Isthmus III. His Traverses among the West India Islands and Coasts and arrival in Virginia IV. His Departure for the South Seas again his touching at the Islands of Cape Verd and the African Coast and Arrival at the Isle of John Fernando in the South Seas V. His Course thence Northward to the Isles Lobos and Gallapagos to Caldera Bay Rio Lexa and Amapalla in the K. of Mexico VI. He goes back towards Peru to the Isle Plata Point Santa Hellena Manta Paita Lobos Puna Guiaquil and Plata again VII His Progress Northward again to the R. Saint Jago Tomaco the Isle Galleo I. Gorgonia the Pearl Isles c. in the Bay of Panama VIII He proceeds along the Mexican Coast to the Keys of Quibo Ria Lexa and the Harbour of Guatulco IX He Coasts along to Acapulco Petaplan Estapa Colima Sallagua Cape Corrientes thence to the Isles of Chametly Bay of Valderas Isles of Pontique other Isles of Chametly Massaclan Rosario R. Saint Jago Santa Pecaque Isles of Santa Maria Valderas and Cape Corrientes again X. He stands over the Southern Ocean for the East Indies and arrives at Guam one of the Ladrone Ishes XI His arrival at Mindanao one of the Philippine Islands and of its Natural State XII The Political State of Mindanao XIII Occurrences during the Authors stay at Mindanao XIV He departs towards Manila in the Isle of Luconia touching at Bat Island and the Isle of Mindora and leaving Luconia he goes to Pulo Condore on the Coast of Cambodia to Pulo Uby in the Bay of Siam and to Pulo Condore again XV. He goes to the I. of St. John on the Coast of China to the Isles Piscadores near Formosa and the Bashee or 5 Islands between Formosa and Luconia called Orange Monmouth Grafton Bashee and Goat Isles XVI He Coasts along the East side of Luconia Mindanao and other of the Philippines and touching at the I. Celebes and Callasusung in the I. of Bouton he arrives at New Holland XVII He goes thence touches at the I. Triste and another and steering along the West Coast of Sumatra arrives at the I. of Nicobar where he stays ashore and the Ship departs XVIII He stands ever from thence in an open Boat to Passange Jonca and thence to Achin and after several Traverses comes to Bencouli all on the I. of Sumatra XIX He Ships himself for England and arrives at the Cape of Good Hope XX. His departure thence to the I. Santa Hellena and Arrival in the Downs MAP OF THE WORLD Shewing the Course of M R DAMPIERS Voyage Round it From 1679 to 1691. Mr. William Dampier's VOYAGE ROUND THE Terrestrial Globe The Introduction The Authors Departure from England and arrival in Jamaica His first going over the Isthmus of America into the South Seas his Coasting along Peru and Chili and back again to his parting with Captain Sharp near the Isle of Plata in order to return over Land I First set out of England on this Voyage at the beginning of the year 1679 in the Loyal Merchant of London bound for Jamaica Captain Knapman Commander I went a Passenger designing when I came thither to go from thence to the Bay of Campeachy in the Gulph of Mexico to cut Log-wood where in a former Voyage I had spent
Land I have seen of them also at Mindanea one of the Philippine Islands and on the Coast of New-Holland This Creature is about the bigness of a Horse and 10 or 12 foot long The mouth of it is much like the mouth of a Cow having great thick lips The Eyes are no bigger than a small Pea the Ears are only two small holes on each side of the Head The Neck is short and thick bigger than the Head The biggest part of this Creature is at the Shoulders where it hath two large Fins one on each side of its Belly Under each of these Fins the Female hath a small Dug to suckle her young From the Shoulders towards the Tail it retains its bigness for about 2 foot then groweth smaller and smaller to the very tail which is flat and about 14 inches broad and 20 inches long and in the middle 4 or 5 inches thick but about the edges of it not above 2 inches thick From the head to the tail it is round and smooth without any Fin but those two before mentioned I have heard that some have weighed above 1200 l. but I never saw any so large The Manatee delights to live in brackish Water and they are commonly in Creeks and Rivers near the Sea 'T is for this reason possibly they are not seen in the South Seas that ever I could observe where the Coast is generally a bold Shore that is high Land and deep Water close home by it with a high Sea or great Surges except in the Bay of Panama yet even there is no Manatee Whereas the West-Indies being as it were one great Bay composed of many smaller are mostly low Land and shoal Water and afford proper pasture as I may say for the Manatee Sometimes we find them in salt Water sometimes in fresh but never far at Sea And those that live in the Sea at such places where there is no River nor Creek fit for them to enter yet do commonly come once or twice in 24 hours to the mouth of any fresh Water River that is near their place of abode They live on Grass 7 or 8 inches long and of a narrow blade which grows in the Sea in many places especially among Islands near the Main This Grass groweth likewise in Creeks or in great Rivers near the sides of them in such places where there is but little tide or current They never come ashore nor into shallower water than where they can swim Their flesh is white both the fat and the lean and extraordinary sweet wholsome meat The tail of a young Cow is most esteemed but if old both head and tail are very tough A Calf that sucks is the most delicate meat Privateers commonly roast them as they do also great pieces cut out of the Bellies of the old ones The Skin of the Manatee is of great use to Privateers for they cut them out into straps which they make fast on the sides of their Canoas through which they put their Oars in rowing instead of tholes or pegs The Skin of the Bull or of the back of the Cow is too thick for this use but of it they make Horse-whips cutting them 2 or 3 foot long at the handle they leave the full substance of the Skin and from thence cut it away tapering but very even and square all the four sides While the Thongs are green they twist them and hang them to dry which in a weeks time become as hard as Wood. The Moskito-men have always a small Canoa for their use to strike Fish Tortoise or Manatee which they keep usually to themselves and very neat and clean They use no Oars but Paddles the broad part of which doth not go tapering towards the staff pole or handle of it as in the Oar nor do they use it in the same manner by laying it on the side of the Vessel but hold it perpendicularly griping the staff hard with both hands and putting back the water by main strength and very qâ—…ick strokes One of the Moskitoes for there go but two in a Canoa sits in the stern the other kneels down in the head and both paddle till they come to the place where they expect their game Then they lye still or paddle very softly looking well about them and he that is in the head of the Canoa lays down his paddle and stands up with his striking staff in his hand This staff is about 8 foot long almost as big as a mans Arm at the great end in which there is a hole to place his Harpoon in At the other end of his staff there is a piece of light Wood called Bobwood with a hole in it through which the small end of the staff comes and on this piece of Bobwood there is a line of 10 or 12 fathom wound neatly about and the end of the line made fast to it The other end of the line is made fast to the Harpoon which is at the great end of the staff and the Moskito man keeps about a fathom of it loose in his hand When he strikes the Harpoon presently comes out of the staff and as the Manatee swims away the line runs off from the bob and although at first both staff and bob may be carried under water vet as the line runs off it will rise again Then the Moskito men paddle with all their might to get hold of the bob again and spend usually a quarter of an hour before they get it When the Manatee begins to be tired it lyeth still and then the Moskito men paddle to the bob and take it up and begin to hale in the line When the Manatee feels them he swims away again with the Canoa after him then he that steers must be nimble to turn the head of the Canoa that way that his consort points who being in the head of the Canoa and holding the line both sees and feels which way the Manatee is swimming Thus the Canoa is towed with a violent motion till the Manatee's strength decays Then they gather in the line which they are often forced to let all go to the very end At length when the Creatures strength is spent they hale it up to the Canoas side and knock it on the head and tow it to the nearest shore where they make it fast and seek for another which having taken they go ashore with it to put it into their Canoa For it is so heavy that they cannot lift it in but they hale it up in shoal water as near the shore as they can and then overset the Canoa laying one side close to the Manatee Then they roll it in which brings the Canoa upright again and when they have heav'd out the water they fasten a line to the other Manatee that lieth afloat and tow it after them I have known two Moskito men for a week every day bring aboard two Manatee in this manner the least of which hath not weighed less than 600
Coast of Portabell nor so frequent The Westerly winds in the Westerly wind season blow here tho not so strong nor lasting as on the Coasts of Cartagene and Portabell When we had spent some time here we return'd again towards the Coast of Cartagene and being between Rio Grande and that place we met with Westerly winds which kept us still to the Eastward of Cartagene 3 or 4 days and then in the morning we descryed a Sail off at Sea and we chaced her at noon Captain Wright who sailed best came up with her and engaged her and in half an hour after Captain Yanky who sailed better than the Tartan the Vessel that I was in came up with her likewise and laid her aboard then Captain Wright also and they took her before we came up They lost 2 or 3 men and had 7 or 8 wounded The Prize was a Ship of 12 Guns and 40 men who had all good small Arms She was laden with Sugar and Tobacco and had 8 or 10 Tuns of Marmalett on board She came from Saint Jago on Cuba and was bound to Cartagene We went back with her to Rio Grande to fix our Rigging which was shattered in the Fight and to consider what to do with her for these were commodities of little use to us and not worth going into a Port with At the Rio Grande Captain Wright demanded the Prize as his due by virtue of his Commission Captain Yanky said it was his due by the Law of Privateers Indeed Captain Wright had the most right to her having by his Commission protected Captain Yanky from the French who would have turned him out because he had no Commission and he likewise began to engage her first But the Company were all afraid that Captain Wright would presently carry her into a Port therefore most of Captain Wright's Men stuck to Captain Yanky and Captain Wright losing his Prize burned his own Bark and had Captain Yankys's it being bigger than his own the Tartan was sold to a Jamaica Trader and Captain Yanky commanded the Prize Ship We went again from hence to Rio la Hach and set the Prisoners ashore and it being now the beginning of November we concluded to go to Querisao to sell our Sugar if favoured by westerly Winds which were now come in We sailed from thence having fair weather and Winds to our mind which brought us to Querisao a Dutch Island Captain Wright went ashore to the Governour and offered him the Sale of the Sugar but the Governor told him he had a great Trade with the Spaniards therefore he could not admit us in there but if we would go to St. Thomas which is an Island and Free Port belonging to the Danes and a Sanctuary for Privateers he would send a Sloop with such Goods as we wanted and Money to buy the Sugar which he would take at a certain rate but it was not agreed to Querisao is the only Island of importance that the Dutch have in the West-Indies It is about 5 leagues in length and may be 9 or 10 in circumference the Northernmost point is laid down in North lat 12 d. 40 m. and it is about 7 or 8 leagues from the Main near Cape Roman On the South side of the East end is a good harbour called Santa Barbara but the chiefest harbour is about 3 leagues from the S. E. end on the South side of it where the Dutch have a very good Town and a very strong Fort. Ships bound in thither must be sure to keep close to the Harbour's mouth and have a Hasar or Rope ready to send one end ashore to the Fort for there is no Anchoring at the entrance of the Harbour and the Current always sets to the Westward But being got in it is a very secure Port for Ships either to Careen or lye safe At the East end are two hills one of them is much higher than the other and steepest toward the North side The rest of the Island is indifferent level where of late some rich Men have made Sugar works which formerly was all pasture for Cattle there are also some small Plantations of Potatoes and Yames and they have still a great many Cattle on the Island but it is not so much esteemed for its produce as for its situation for the Trade with the Spaniard Formerly the Harbour was never without Ships from Cartagenâ—… and Portabell that did use to buy of the Dutch here 1000 or 1500 Negroes at once besides great quantities of European Commodities but of late that Trade is fallen into the hands of the English at Jamaica yet still the Dutch have a vast Trade over all the West Indies sending from Holland Ships of good force laden with European goods whereby they make very profitable returns The Dutch have two other Islands here but of little moment in comparison of Querisao the one lieth 7 or 8 leagues to the Westward of Querisao called Aruba the other 9 or 10 leagues to the Eastward of it called Bon-Airy From these Islands the Dutch fetch in Sloops Provision for Querisao to maintain their Garrison and Negroes I was never at Aruba therefore cannot say any thing of it as to my own knowledge but by report it is much like Bon-Airy which I shall describe only not so big Between Querisao and Bon-Airy is a small Island called Little Querisao it is not above a league from Great Querisao The King of France has long had an eye on Querisao and made some attempts to take it but never yet succeeded I have heard that about 23 or 24 years since the Governour had sold it to the French but dy'd a small time before the Fleet came to demand it and by his death that design fail d. Afterwards in the year 1678 the Count D Estre who a year before had taken the Isle of Tobago from the Dutch was sent hither also with a Squadron of stout Ships very well mann'd and fitted with Bombs and Carcasses intending to take it by storm This Fleet first came to Martinico where while they stay'd orders were sent to Petit-Guavers for all Privateers to repair thither and assist the Count in his design There were but two Privateers Ships that went thither to him which were mann'd partly with French partly with English men These set out with the Count but in their way to Querisao the whole Fleet was lost on a Riff or Ridge of Rocks that runs off from the Isle of Aves not above two Ships escaping one of which was one of the Privateers and so that design perished Wherefore not driving a bargain for our Sugar with the Governour of Querisao we went from thence to Bon-Airy another Dutch Island where we met a Dutch Sloop come from Europe laden with Irish Beef which we bought in exchange for some of our Sugar Bon-Airy is the Eastermost of the Dutch Islands and is the largest of the three tho not the most considerable The middle of the Island is laid
is a Pond of brackish Water which sometimes Privateers use instead of better there is likewise good riding by it About a league from this are two other Islands not 200 yards distant from each other yet a deep Channel for Ships to pass through They are both overgrown with red Mangrove Trees which Trees above any of the Mangroves do flourish best in wet drowned Land such as these two Islands are only the East point of the Westernmost Island is dry Sand without Tree or Bush On this point we careened lying on the South side of it The other Islands are low and have red Mangroves and other Trees on them Here also Ships may ride but no such place for careening as where we lay because at that place Ships may hale close to the shore and if they have but four Guns on the point may secure the Channel and hinder any Enemy from coming near them I observ'd that within among the Islands was good riding in many places but not without the Islands except to the West-ward or S. West of them For on the East or N. E. of these Islands the common Trade-Wind blows and makes a great Sea and to the South-ward of them there is no ground under 70 80 or 100 fathom close by the Land After we had filled what Water we could from hence we set out again in April 1682. and came to Salt-Tortuga so called to distinguish it from the shoals of Dry Tortugas near Cape Florida and from the Isle of Tortugas by Hispaniola which was called formerly French Tortugas though not having heard any mention of that name a great while I am apt to think it is swallow'd up in that of Petit-Guavres the chief Garrison the French have in those parts This Island we arrived at is pretty large uninhabited and abounds with Salt It is in Lat. 11 degrees North and lyeth West and a little Northerly from Margarita an Island inhabited by the Spaniards strong and wealthy it is distant from it about 14 leagues and 17 or 18 from Cape Blanco on the Main A Ship being within these Islands a little to the South-ward may see at once the Main Margarita and Tortuga when it is clear weather The East end of Tortuga is full of rugged bare broken Rocks which stretch themselves a little way out to Sea At the S. E. part is an indifferent good Road for Ships much frequented in peaceable times by Merchant-ships that come hither to lade Salt in the months of May June July and August For at the East end is a large Salt-pond within 200 paces of the Sea The Salt begins to kern or grain in April except it is a dry season for it is observed that rain makes the Salt kern I have seen above 20 Sail at a time in this road come to lade Salt and these Ships coming from some of the Caribbe Islands are always well stored with Rum Sugar and Lime-juice to make Punch to hearten their Men when they are at work getting and bringing aboard the Salt and they commonly provide the more in hopes to meet with Privateers who resort hither in the aforesaid months purposely to keep a Christmas as they call it being sure to meet with Liquor enough to be merry with and are very liberal to those that treat them Near the West end of the Island on the South side there is a small Harbour and some fresh Water That end of the Island is full of shrubby Trees but the East end is rocky and barren as to Trees producing only course Grass There are some Goats on it but not many and Turtle or Tortise come upon the sandy Bays to lay their Eggs and from them the Island hath its Name There is no riding any where but in the Road where the Salt-Ponds are or in the Harbour At this Isle we thought to have sold our Sugar among the English Ships that come hither for Salt but failing there we design'd for Trinidada an Island near the Main inhabited by the Spaniards tolerably strong and wealthy but the Current and Easterly Winds hindering us we passed through between Margarita and the Main and went to Blanco a pretty large Island almost North of Margarita about 30 leagues from the Main and in 11 d. 50 m. North Lat. It is a flat even low uninhabited Island dry and healthy most Savanah of long Grass and hath some Trees of Lignum Vitae growing in Spots with shrubby Bushes of other Wood about them It is plentifully stored with Guano s which are an Animal like a Lizard but much bigger The body is as big as the small of a mans leg and from the hind quarter the tail grows tapering to the end which is very small If a Man takes hold of the tail except very near the hind quarter it will part and breakoff in one of the joints and the Guano will get away They lay Eggs as most of those amphibious creatures do and are very good to eat Their flesh is much esteemed by Privateers who commonly dress them for their sick men for they make very good Broath They are of divers colours as almost black dark brown light brown dark green light green yellow and speckled They all live as well in the Water as on Land and some of them are constantly in the Water and among Rocks These are commonly black Others that live in swampy wet ground are commonly on Bushes and Trees these are green But such as live in dry ground as here at Blanco are commonly yellow yet these also will live in the Water and are sometimes on Trees The Road is on the N. W. end against a small Cove or little sandy Bay There is no riding any where else for it is deep water and steep close to the Land There is one small Spring on the West side and there are sandy Bays round the Island where Turtle or Tortoise come up in great abundance going ashore in the night These that frequent this Island are called green Turtle and they are the best of that sort both for largeness and sweetness of any in all the West Indies I would here give a particular description of these and other sorts of Turtle in these Seas but because I shall have occasion to mention some other sorts of Turtle when I come again into the South Seas that are very different from all these I shall there give a general account of all these several sorts at once that the difference between them may be the better discerned Some of our modern Descriptions speak of Goats on this Island I know not what there may have been formerly but there are none now to my certain knowledge for my self and many more of our Crew have been all over it Indeed these parts have undergone great changes in this last age as well in places themselves as in their Owners and Commodities of them particularly Nombre de Dios a City once famous and which still retains a considerable name in some late
not hurt them for we had our Bags rotten lying in the bottom of our Ship and yet the Nuts never the worse They raise the young Trees of Nuts set with the great end downward in fine black Mould and in the same places where they are to bear which they do in 4 or 5 years time without the trouble of transplanting There are ordinarily of these Trees from 500 to 2000 and upwards in a Plantation or Cacoa-walk as they call them and they shelter the young Trees from the weather with Plaintains set about them for 2 or 4 years destroying all the Plantains by such time the Cacoa-Trees are of a pretty good body and able to endure the heat which I take to be the most pernicious to them of any thing for tho these Valleys lye open to the North winds unless a little shelter'd here and there by some groves of Plaintain Trees which are purposely set near the Shores of the several Bays yet by all that I could either observe or learn the Cacao's in this Country are never blighted as I have often known them to be in other places Cacoa-Nuts are used as Money in the Bay of Campechy The chief Town of this Country is called Caraccos a good way within Land 't is a large wealthy place where live most of the Owners of these Cacao-walks that are in the Valleys by the shore the Plantations being managed by Overseers and Negro's It is in a large Savanah Country that abounds with Cattle and a Spaniard of my acquaintance a very sensible man who hath been there tells me that 't is very populous and he judges it to be 3 times as big as Coruma in Gallicia The way to it is very steep and craggy over that ridge of of Hills which I said closes up the Valleys and partition Hills of the Cacao Coast. In this Coast it self the chief place is La Guiare a good Town close by the Sea and though it hath but a bad Harbour yet it is much frequented by the Spanish shipping for the Dutch and English anchor in the sandy Bays that lye here and there in the mouths of several Valleys and where there is very good riding The Town is open but hath a strong Fort yet both were taken some years since by Captain Wright and his Privateers 'T is seared about 4 or 5 leagues to the Westward of Cape Blanco which Cape is the Eastermost boundary of this Coast of Caraccos Further Eastward about 20 leagues is a great lake or branch of the Sea called La Laguna de Vallensuella about which are many rich Towns but the mouth of the Lake is shallow that no Ships can enter Near this mouth is a place called Comana where the Privateers were once repulsed without daring to attempt it any more being the only place in the North Seas they attempted in vain for many years and the Spaniards since throw it in their teeth frequently as a word of reproach or defiance to them Not far from the place is Verina a small Village and Spanish Plantation famous for its Tobacco reputed the best in the world But to return to Caraccos all this Coast is subject to dry winds generally North-east which caused us to have scabby Lips and we always found it thus and that in different seasons of the year for I have been on this Coast several times In other respects it is very healthy and a sweet clear Air. The Spaniards have Look-outs or Scouts on the Hills and Breast-works in the Valleys and most of their Negro's are furnished with Arms also for defence of the Bays The Dutch have a very profitable Trade here almost to themselves I have known 3 or 4 great Ships at a time on the Coast each it may be of 30 or 40 Guns They carry hither all sorts of European Commodities especially Linnen making vast returns chiefly in Silver and Cacao And I have often wondred and regretted it that none of my own Countrymen find the way thither directly from England for our Jamaica-men Trade thither indeed and find the sweet of it though they carry English Commodities at second or third hand While we lay on this Coast we went ashore in some of the Bays and took 7 or 8 Tun of Cacoa and after that 3 Barks one laden with Hides the second with European Commodities the third with Earthen ware and Brandy With these 3 Barks we went again to the Islands of Roca's where we shar'd our Commodities and separated having Vessels enough to transport us all whither we thought most convenient Twenty of us for we were about 60 took one of the Vessels and our share of the goods and went directly for Virginia In our way thither we took several of the Sucking-fishes for when we see them about the Ship we cast out a Line and Hook and they will take it with any manner of Bait whether Fish or Flesh. The Sucking-fish is about the bigness of a large Whiting and much of the same shape towards the Tail but the Head is flatter From the Head to the middle of its Back there groweth a sort of flesh of a hard gristly substance like that part of the Limpit a Shell-fish tapering up Pyramidically which sticks to the Rocks or like the head or mouth of a Shell-Snail but harder This excrescence is of a flat oval form about 7 or 8 inches long and 5 or 6 broad and rising about half an inch high It is full of small ridges with which it will fasten it self to any thing that it meets with in the Sea just as a Snail doth to a Wall When any of them happen to come about a Ship they seldom leave her for they will feed on such filth as is daily thrown overboard or on meer excrements When it is fair weather and but little wind they will play about the Ship but in blustring weather or when the Ship sails quick they commonly fasten themselves to the Ships bottom from whence neither the Ships motion though never so swift nor the most tempestuous Sea can remove them They will likewise fasten themselves to any other bigger Fish for they never swim fast themselves if they meet with any thing to carry them I have found them sticking to a Shark after it was hal'd in on the deck though a Shark is so strong and boisterous a Fish and throws about him so vehemently for half an hour together it may be when caught that did not the Sucking-fish stick at no ordinary rate it must needs be cast off by so much violence It is usual also to see them sticking to Turtle to any old Trees Planks or the like that lye driving at Sea Any knobs or inqualities at a Ships bottom are a great hinderance to the swiftness of its sailing and 10 or 12 of these sticking to it must needs retard it as much in a manner as if its bottom were foul So that I am inclined to think that this Fish is the Remora of which
times sought after by the Spaniards who knew he was left on the Island yet they could never find him He was in the Woods hunting for Goats when Captain Watlin drew off his men and the Ship was under sail before he came back to shore He had with him his Gun and a Knife with a small Horn of Powder and a few Shot which being spent he contrived a way by notching his Knife to saw the barrel of his Gun into small pieces wherewith he made Harpoons Lances Hooks and a long Knife heating the pieces first in the fire which he struck with his Gunflint and a piece of the barrel of his Gun which he hardened having learnt to do that among the English The hot pieces of Iron he would hammer out and bend as he pleased with Stones and saw them with his jagged Knife or grind them to an edge by long labour and harden them to a good temper as there was occasion All this may seem strange to those that are not acquainted with the sagacity of the Indians but it is no more than these Moskito men are accustomed to in their own Country where they make their own Fishing and Striking Instruments without either Forge or Anvil tho they spend a great deal of time about them Other Wild Indians who have not the use of Iron which the Moskito men have from the English make Hatchets of a very hard stone with which they will cut down Trees the Cotton Tree especially which is a soft tender Wood to build their Houses or make Canoas and though in working their Canoas hollow they cannot dig them so neat and thin yet they will make them fit for their service This their digging or hatchet-work they help out by fire whether for the felling of the Trees or for the making the inside of their Canoa hollow These contrivances are used particularly by the Savage Indians of Blewfield s River described in the 3d Chapter whose Canoas and Stone-hatchets I have seen These Stone-hatchets are about 10 inches long 4 broad and 3 inches thick in the middle They are grownd away flat and sharp at both ends right in the midst and clear round it they make a notch so wide and deep that a man might place his Finger along it and taking a stick or withe about 4 foot long they bind it round the Hatchet-head in that notch and so twisting it hard use it as an handle or helve the head being held by it very fast Nor are other Wild Indians less ingenious Those of Patagonia particularly head their Arrows with Flint cut or grownd which I have seen and admired But to return to our Moskito man on the Isle of John Fernando With such Instruments as he made in that manner he got such Provision as the Island afforded either Goats or Fish He told us that at first he was forced to eat Seal which is very ordinary meat before he had made Hooks but afterwards he never kill'd any Seals but to make lines cutting their skins into thongs He had a little House or Hut half a mile from the Sea which was lined with Goats skin his Couch or Barbecu of sticks lying along about 2 foot distant from the ground was spread with the same and was all his Bedding He had no Cloaths left having worn out those he brought from Watlin's Ship but only a Skin about his Waste He saw our Ship the day before we came to an Anchor and did believe we were English and therefore kill'd 3 Goats in the morning before we came to an anchor and drest them with Cabbage to treat us when we came ashore He came then to the Sea side to congratulate our safe arrival And when we landed a Moskito Indian named Robin first leapt ashore and running to his brother Moskito man threw himself flat on his face at his feet who helping him up and embracing him fell flat with his face on the ground at Robins feet and was by him taken up also We stood with pleasure to behold the surprize and tenderness and solemnity of this interview which was exceedingly affectionate on both sides and when their ceremonies of civility were over we also that stood gazing at them drew near each of us embracing him we had found here who was overjoyed to see so many of his old friends come hither as he thought purposely to fetch him He was named Will as the other was Robin These were names given them by the English for they have no names among themselves and they take it as a great favour to be named by any of us and will complain for want of it if we do not appoint them some name when they are with us saying of themselves they are poor Men and have no name This Island is in lat 34 d. 15 m. and about 120 leagues from the Main It is about 12 leagues round full of high Hills and small pleasant Valleys which if manured would probably produce any thing proper for the Climate The sides of the Mountains are part Savanahs part Wood-land Savanahs are clear pieces of Land without Woods not because more barren than the Wood-land for they are frequently spots of as good Land as any and often are intermixt with Wood-land In the Bay of Campeachy are very large Savanahs which I have seen full of Cattle but about the River of Plate are the largest that ever I heard of 50 60 or 100 miles in length and Jamaica Cuba and Hispaniola have many Savanahs intermixt with Woods Places cleared of Wood by Art and Labour do not go by this name but those only which are found so in the uninhabited parts of America such as this Isle of John Fernandoes or which were originally clear in other parts The Grass in these Savanahs at John Fernando's is not a long flaggy Grass such as is usually in the Savanahs in the West-Indies but a sort of kindly Grass both thick and flourishing the biggest part of the year The Woods afford divers sorts of Trees some large and good Timber for Building but none fit for Masts The Cabbage Trees of this Isle are but small and low yet afford a good head and the Cabbage very sweet This Tree I shall describe in the Appendix in the Bay of Campeachy The Savanahs are stocked with Goats in great Herds but those that live on the East end of the Island are not so fat as those on the West end for though there is much more Grass and plenty of Water in every Valley nevertheless they thrive not so well here as on the West end where there is less food and yet there are found greater Flocks and those too fatter and sweeter That West end of the Island is all high Champion ground without any Vally and but one place to land there is neither Wood nor any fresh Water and the Grass short and dry Goats were first put on the Island by John Fernando who first discovered it in his Voyage from Lima to Baldivia
and discovered also another Island about the same bigness 20 leagues to the Westward of this From those Goats these were propogated and the Island hath taken its name from this its first Discoverer who when he returned to Lima desired a Patent for it designing to settle here and it was in his second Voyage hither that he set ashore 3 or 4 Goats which have since by their increase so well stocked the whole Island But he could never get a Patent for it therefore it lies still destitute of Inhabitants though doubtless capable of maintaining 4 or 500 Families by what may be produced off the Land only I speak much within compass for the Savanahs would at present feed 1000 head of Cattle besides Goats and the Land being cultivated would probably bear Corn or Wheat and good Pease Yams or Patatoes for the Land in their Valleys and sides of the Mountains is of a good black fruitful mould The Sea about it is likewise very productive of its Inhabitants Seals swarm as thick about this Island as if they had no other place in the World to live in for there is not a Bay nor Rock that one can get ashore on but is full of them Sea Lyon's are here in great Companys and Fish particularly Snappers and Rock-fish are so plentiful that 2 men in an hours time will take with Hook and Line as many as will serve 100 men The Seals are a sort of Creatures pretty well known yet it may not be amiss to describe them They are as big as Calves the head of them like a Dog therefore call'd by the Dutch the Sea-hounds Under each Shoulder grows a long thick Fin These serve them to swim with when in the Sea and are instead of Legs to them when on the Land for raising their Bodies up on end by the help of these Fins or Stumps and so having their Tail-parts drawn close under them they rebound as it were and throw their bodies forward drawing their hinder-parts after them and then again rising up and springing forward with their fore-parts alternately they lie tumbling thus up and down all the while they are moving on Land From their Shoulders to their Tails they grow tapering like Fish and have two small Fins on each side the Rump which is commonly covered with their Fins These Fins serve instead of a Tail in the Sea and on Land they sit on them when they give suck to their young Their hair is of divers colours as black grey dun sported looking very sleek and pleasant when they come first out of the Sea For these at John Fernando s have fine thick short Furr the like I have not taken notice of any where but in these Seas Here are always thousands I might say possibly millions of them either sitting on the Bays or going and coming in the Sea round the Island which is covered with them as they lye at the top of the Water playing and sunning themselves for a mile or two from the Shore When they come out of the Sea they bleat like Sheep for their young and tho they pass through hundreds of others young ones before they come to their own yet they will not suffer any of them to suck The young ones are like Puppies and lie much ashore but when beaten by any of us they as well as the old ones will make toward the Sea and swim very swift and nimble tho on shore they lye very sluggishly and will not go out of our ways unless we beat them but snap at us A blow on the Nose soon kills them Large Ships might here load themselves with Seals skins and Trane-oyl for they are extraordinary fat Seals are found as well in cold as hot Climates and in the cold places they love to get on Lumps of Ice where they will lie and sun themselves as here on the Land They are frequent in the Northern parts of Europe and America and in the Southern parts of Africa as about the Cape of Good Hope and at the Streights of Magellan and though I never saw any in the West Indies but in the Bay of Campeachy at certain Islands called the Alceranes and at others called the Desartes yet they are over all the American Coast of the South Seas from Terra del Fuego up to the Equinoctial Line but to the North of the Equinox again in these Seas I never saw any till as far as 21 North Lat. Nor did I ever see any in the East Indies In general they seem to resort where there is plenty of Fish for that is their food and Fish such as they feed on as Cods Groopers c. are most plentiful on rocky Coasts and such is mostly this Western Coast of the South America as I shall further relate The Sea Lion is a large creature about 12 or 14 foot long The biggest part of his body is as big as a Bull it is shaped like a Seal but 6 times as big The Head is like a Lion's Head it hath a broad Face with many long Hairs growing about its Lips like a Cat. It has a great goggle Eye the Teeth inches long about the bigness of a Mans Thumb In Capt. Sharp's time some of our Men made Dice with them They have no Hair on their Bodies like the Seal they are of a dun colour and are all extraordinary fat one of them being cut up and boil'd will yeild a Hogshed of Oil which is very sweet and wholesome to fry Meat withal The lean Flesh is black and of a course grain yet indifferent good food They will lye a week at a time ashore if not disturbed Where 3 or 4 or more of them come ashore together they huddle one on another like Swine and grunt like them making a hideous noise They eat Fish which I believe is their common food The Snapper is a Fish made much like a Roach but a great deal bigger It hath a large Head and Mouth and great Gills The Back is of a bright Red the Belly of a Silver-colour The Scales are as broad as a Shilling The Snapper is excellent meat They are in many places in the West-Indies and the South-Seas I have not seen them any where beside The Rock-fish is called by Sea-men a Grooper the Spaniards call it a Baccalao which is the name for Cod because it is much like it It is rounder than the Snapper of a dark brown colour and hath small Scales no bigger than a Silver-penny This Fish is good sweet meat and is found in great plenty on all the Coast of Peru and Chili There are only two Bays in the whole Island where Ships may Anchor these are both at the East end and in both of them is a Rivolet of good fresh Water Either of these Bays may be fortified with little charge to that degree that 50 men in each may be able to keep off 1000 and there is no coming into these Bays from the West end but with great
difficulty over the Mountains where if 3 men are placed they may keep down as many as come against them on any side This was partly experienced by 5 Englishmen that Captain Davis left here who defended themselves against a great body of Spaniards who landed in the Bays and came here to destroy them and though the second time one of their Consorts deserted and fled to the Spaniards yet the other 4 kept their ground and were afterward taken in from hence by Captain Strong of London We remained at John Fernando's 16 days our sick men were ashore all the time and one of Captain Eaton's Doctors for he had 4 in his Ship tending and feeding them with Goat and several Herbs whereof here is plenty growing in the Brooks and their Diseases were chiefly Scorbutick CHAP. V. The Author departs from John Fernando's Of the Pacifick Sea Of the Andes or high Mountains in Peru and Chili A Prize taken Isle of Lobos Penguins and other Birds there Three Prizes more The Islands Gallapago's The Dildo tree Burton wood Mammet trees Guanoes Land Tortoise their several kind Green Snakes Turtle-Doves Tortoise or Turtle-grass Sea Turtle their several kinds The Air and Weather at the Gallapago's Some of the Islands describ'd their Soil c. The Island Cocos describ'd Cape Blanco and the Bay of Caldera the Sevanahs there Captain Cook dies Of Nicoya and a Red Wood for Dying and other Commodities A narrow Escape of 12 Men. Lance-wood Volean Vejo a burning Mountain on the Coast of Ria Lexa A Tornado The Island and Harbor of Ria Lexa The Gulph of Amapalla and Point Casivina Isles of Mangera and Amapalla The Indian Inhabitants Hog-plumb tree Other Islands in the Gulph of Amapalla Captain Eaton and Captain Davis careen their Ships here and afterwards part THE 8th of April 1684. we sailed from the Isle of John Fernando with the Wind at S. E. We were now 2 Ships in Company Captain Cook 's whose Ship I was in and who here took the Sickness of which he dy'd a while after and Captain Eaton's Our passage lay now along the Pacifick Sea properly so called For though it be usual with our Map-makers to give that Name to this whole Ocean calling it Mare Australe Mar del Zar or Mare Pacificum yet in my opinion the Name of the Pacifick Sea ought not to be extended from South to North farther than from 30 to about 4 degrees South Latitude and from the American Shore Westward indefinitely with respect to my Observation who have been in these parts 250 Leagues or more from Land and still had the Sea very quiet from Winds For in all this Tract of Water of which I have spoken there are no dark rainy Clouds though often a thick Horizon so as to hinder an Observation of the Sun with the Quadrant and in the morning hazy weather frequently and thick Mists but scarce able to wet one Nor are there in this Sea any Winds but the Trade-wind no Tempests no Tornado's or Hurricans though North of the Equator they are met with as well in this Ocean as in the Atlantick yet the Sea it self at the new and full of the Moon runs with high large long Surges but such as never break out at Sea and so are safe enough unless that where they fell in and break upon the shore they make it bad landing In this Sea we made the best of our way toward the Line till in the lat of 24. S. where we fell in with the main Land of the South America All this course of the Land both of Chili and Peru is vastly high therefore we kept 12 or 14 leagues off from shore being unwilling to be seen by the Spaniards dwelling there The Land especially beyond this from 24 deg S. Lat. to 17 and from 14 to 10 is of a most prodigious heighth It lies generally in ridges parallel to the Shore and 3 or 4 ridges one within another each surpassing other in heighth and those that are farthest within Land are much higher than the others They always appear blue when seen at Sea sometimes they are obscured with Clouds but not so often as the high Lands in other parts of the world for here are seldom or never any Rains on these Hills any more than in the Sea near it neither are they subject to Fogs These are the highest Mountains that ever I saw far surpassing the Pike of Tenariffe or Santa Martha and I believe any Mountains in the world I have seen very high Land in the Lat. of 30 South but not so high as in the Latitudes before described In Sir John Narborough's Voyage also to Baldivia a City on this Coast mention is made of very high Land seen near Baldivia and the Spaniard with whom I have discoursed have told me that there is very high Land all the way between Coquimbo which lies in about 30 deg S. Lat. and Baldivia which is in 40 South so that by all likelihood these ridges of Mountains do run in a continued Chain from one end of Peru and Chili to the other all along this South Sea Coast called usually the Andes or Sierra Nuevada des Andes The excessive heighth of these Mountains may possibly be the reason that there are no Rivers of note that fall into these Seas Some small Rivers indeed there are but very few of them for in some places there is not one that comes out into the Sea in 150 or 200 Leagues and where they are thickest they are 30 40 or 50 Leagues asunder and too little and shallow to be navigable Besides some of these do not constantly run but are dry at certain seasons of the year as the River of Ylo runs flush with a quick Current at the latter end of January and so continues till June and then it decreaseth by degrees growing less and running slow till the latter end of September when it fails wholly and runs no more till January again This I have seen at both seasons in two former Voyages I made hither and have been informed by the Spaniards that other Rivers on this Coast are of the like nature being rather Torrents or Land-floods caused by their Rains at certain seasons far within Land than Perennial Streams We kept still along in sight of this Coast but at a good distance from it encountring with nothing of Note till in the lat of 9 deg 40 min. South on the 3d of May we descried a Sail to the Northward of us She was plying to Windward we chaced her and Captain Eaton being a head soon took her she came from Guiaquil about a month before laden with Timber and was bound to Lima. Three days before we took her she came from Santa whither she had gone for Water and where they had news of our being in these Seas by an Express from Baldivia for as we afterwards heard Captain Swan had been at Baldivia to seek a Trade there and he having met Captain
Eaton in the Streights of Magellan the Spaniards of Baldivia were doubtless informed of us by him suspecting him also to be one of us tho he was not Upon this News the Viceroy of Lima sent Expresses to all the Sea Ports that they might provide themselves against our Assaults We immediately steered away for the Island Lobos which lieth in lat 6 deg 24 min. South lat I took the Elevation of it ashore with an Astrolabe and its 5 leagues from the Main it is called Lobos de la Mar to distinguish it from another that is not far from it and extremely like it called Lobos de la Terra for it lies nearer the Main Lobos or Lovos is the Spanish Name for a Seal of which there are great plenty about these and several other Islands in these Seas that go by this Name The 9th of May we arrived at this Isle of Lobos de la Mar and came to an anchor with our Prize This Lobos consists indeed of two little Islands each about a milâ—…und of an indifferent heighth a small Channel between fit for Boats only and several Rocks lying on the North side of the Islands a little way from shore There is a small Cove or Sandy Bay sheltred from the Winds at the West end of the Eastermost Island where Ships may Careen The rest of the shore as well round the 2 Islands as between them is a Rocky Coast consisting of small Cliffs Within Land they are both of them partly Rocky and partly Sandy Barren without any fresh Water Tree Shrub Grass or Herbs or any Land Animals for the Seals and Sea-Lyons come ashore here but Fowls Of which there are great multitudes as Boobies but mostly Penguins which I have seen plentifully all over the South Seas on the Coast of Newfoundland and of the Cape of Good Hope They are a Sea Fowl about as big as a Duck and such Feet but a sharp Bill feeding on Fish They do not fly but flutter having rather stumps like a young Gossins than Wings And these are instead of Fins to them in the Water Their Feathers are Downy Their flesh is but ordinary food but their Eggs are good Meat There is another sort of small black Fowl that make holes in the Sand for their Night habitations whose flesh is good sweet meat I never saw any of them but here and at John Fernandos There is good riding between the Eastermost Island and the Rocks in 10 12 or 14 fathom for the wind is commonly at S. or S. S. E. and the Eastermost Island lying East and West shelters that Road. Here we scrubb'd our Ships and being in a readiness to sail the Prisoners were Examined to know if any of them could conduct us to some Town where we might make some attempt For they had before informed us that we were discried by the Spaniards and by that we knew that they would send no Riches by Sea so long as we were here Many Towns were considered on as Guiaquil Zana Truxillo and others At last Truxillo was pitched on as the most important therefore the likeliest to make us a Voyage if we could Conquer it which we did not much question though we knew it to be a very populous City But the greatest difficulty was in Landing for Guanchaquo which is the nearest Sea-port to it but 6 miles off is an ill place to Land since sometimes the very Fishermen that live there are not able to go out in 3 or 4 days However the 17th of May in the Afternoon our Men were mustered of both Ships Companies and their Arms proved We were in all 108 Men fit for Service besides the sick and the next day we intended to Sail and take the Wood Prize with us But the next day one of our Men being ashoar betimes on the Island discried three Sail bound to the North-ward two of them without the Island to the Westward the other between it and the Continent We soon got our Anchors up and chased and Captain Eaton who drew the least draught of Water put through between the Westermost Island and the Rocks and went after those two that were without the Islands We in Captain Cook 's Ship went after the other which stood in for the Main-Land but we soon fetched her up and having taken her stood in again with her to the Island for we saw that Captain Eaton wanted no help having taken both those that he went after He came in with one of his Prizes but the other was so far to Leeward and so deep that he could not then get her in but he hoped to get her in the next day but being deep laden as designed to go down before the wind to Panama she would not bear Sail. The 19th day she turned all day but got nothing nearer the Island Our Moskito strikers according to their custom went out and struck 6 Turtles for here are indifferent plenty of them These Ships that we took the day before came from Guanchaquo all three laden with Flower bound for Panama Two of them were laden as deep as they could swim the other was not above half laden but was ordered by the Vice-Roy of Lima to sail with the other two or else she should not sail till we were gone out of the Seas for he hoped they might escape us by setting out early In the biggest Ship was a Letter to the President of Panama from the Vice-Roy of Lima assuring him that there were Enemies come into that Sea for which reason he had dispatched these three Ships with Flower that they might not want for Panama is supplied from Peru and desired him to be frugal of it for he knew not when he should send more In this Ship were likewise 7 or 8 Tuns of Marmalate of Quinees and a stately Mule sent to the President and a very large Image of the Virgin Mary in Wood Carved and Painted to adorn a new Church at Panama and sent from Lima by the Vice-Roy for this great Ship came from thence not long before She brought also from Lima 800000 pieces of Eight to carry with her to Panama but while she lay at Guanchaco taking in her lading of Flower the Merchants hearing of Capt. Swan's being at Baldivia ordered the Money ashore again These Prisoners likewise informed us that the Gentlemen Inhabitants of Truxillo were building a Fort at Guanchaco which is the Sea Port for Truxillo close by the Sea purposely to hinder the designs of any that should attempt to land there Upon this news we altered our former resolutions and resolved to go with our three Prizes to the Gallapagos which are a great many large Islands lying some under the Equator others on each side of it I shall here omit the description of Truxillo because in my Appontlix at the latter end of the Book I intend to give a general Relation of most of the Towns of note on this Coast from Baldivia to Panama and from thence towards
where they first planted themselves they having not above 3 or 4 Hand-guns the rest of them being arm'd with Lances The Spaniards in these parts are very expert in heaving or darting the Lance with which upon occasion they will do great feats especially in Ambuscades and by their good will they care not for fighting otherwise but content themselves with standing aloof threatning and calling names at which they are as expert as the other so that if their Tongues be quiet we always take it for granted they have laid some Ambush Before night our Canoa came aboard and brought our men all safe The next day two Canoas were sent to the bottom of the Bay to seek for a large Canoa which we were inform d was there The Spaniards have neither Ships nor Barks here and but a few Canoas which they seldom use neither are there any Fishermen here as I judge because Fish is very scarce for I never saw any here neither could any of our men ever take any and yet where ever we come to an Anchor we always send out our Strikers and put out our Hooks and Lines over-board to try for Fish The next day our men return'd out of the Bay and brought the Canoa with them which they were sent for and 3 or 4 days afterward the 2 Canoas were sent out again for another which they likewise brought aboard These Canoas were fitted with Thoats or Benches Straps and Oars fit for service and one of these Captain Eaton had for his share and we the other which we fixt for landing men when occasion required While we lay here we filled our Water and cut a great many Looms or Handles or Staves for Oars for here is plenty of Lancewood which is most proper for that use I never saw any in the South Seas but in this place there is plenty of it in Jamaica especially at a place called Blewfields not Blewfields River which is on the Main near the West end of that Island The Lancewood grows strait like our young Ashes it is very hard tough and heavy therefore Privateers esteem it very much not only to make Looms for Oars but Scowring-Rods for their Guns for they have seldom less than 3 or 4 spare Rods for fear one should break and they are much better than Rods made of Ash. The day before we went from hence Mr. Edward Davis the Company 's Quarter-master was made Captain by consent of all the Company for it was his place by Succession The 20th day of July we sailed from this Bay of Caldera with Captain Eaton and our Prize which we brought from Gallapagos in company directing our course for Ria Lexa The Wind was at North which although but an ordinary Wind yet it carried us in three days abrest of our intended Port. Ria Lexa is the most remarkable Land on all this Coast for there is a high peeked burning Mountain called by the Spaniards Volean-Vejo or the Old Volcan This must be brought to bare N. E. then steer in directly with the Mountain and that course will bring you to the Harbour The Sea Winds are here at S. S. W. therefore Ships that come hither must take the Sea-winds for there is no going in with the Land-wind The Volcan may be easily known because there is not any other so high a Mountain near it neither is there any that appears in the like form all along the Coast besides it smoaks all the day and in the night it sometimes sends forth flames of fire This Mountain may be seen 20 leagues being within 3 leagues of the Harbor the entrance into it may be seen there is a small flat low Island which makes the Harbor it is about a mile long and a quarter of a mile broad and is from the Main about a mile and half There is a Channel at each end of the Island the West Channel is the widest and safest yet at the N. W. point of the Island there is a shole which Ships must take heed of in going in Being past that shole you must keep close to the Island for there is a whole sandy point strikes over from the Main almost half way The East Channel is not so wide besides there runs a stronger tide therefore Ships seldom or never go in that way This Harbor is capable of receiving 200 Sail of Ships the best riding is near the Main where there is 7 or 8 fathom water clean hard Sand. Ria Lexa Town is 2 leagues from hence and there are 2 Creeks that run towards it the Westermost comes near the backside of the Town the other runs up to the Town but neither Ships nor Barks can go so far These Creeks are very narrow and the Land on each side drowned and full of Red Mangrove-trees About a mile and half below the Town on the banks of the East Creek the Spaniards had cast up a strong Breast-work it was likewise reported they had another on the West Creek both so advantageously placed that 10 men might with ease keep 200 men from landing I shall give a description of the Town in my return hither and therefore forbear to do it here Wherefore to resume the thread of our course we were now in sight of the Volcan being by estimation 7 or 8 leagues from the shore and the Mountain bearing N. E. we took in our Topsails and hal'd up our Courses intending to go with our Canoas into the Harbor in the night In the evening we had a very hard Tornado out of the N. E. with much Thunder Lightening and Rain The violence of the Wind did not last long yet it was 11 a clock at night before we got out our Canoas and then it was quite calm We rowed in directly for the shore and thought to have reach'd it before day but it was 9 a clock in the morning before we got into the Harbor When we came within a league of the Island of Ria Lexa that makes the Harbor we saw a House on it and coming nearer we saw 2 or 2 men who stood and looked on us till we came within half a mile of the Island then they went into their Canoa which lay on the inside of the Island and rowed towards the Main but we overtook them before they got over and brought them back again to the Island There was a Horseman right against us on the Main when we took the Canoa who immediately rode away towards the Town as fast as he could The rest of onr Canoas rowed heavily and did not come to the Island till 12 a clock therefore we were forced to stay for them Before they came we examined the Prisoners who told us that they were set there to watch for the Governor of Ria Lexa received a Letter about a month before wherein he was advised of some Enemies come into the Sea and therefore admonished to be careful that immediately thereupon the Governor had caused a House to be built on this
We were 2 Ships and 3 Barks in Company viz. Captain Davis Captain Swan a Fireship and 2 small Barks as Tenders one on Captain Davis his Ship the other on Captain Swan's We weighed before day and got out all but Captain Swan's Tender which never budged for the men were all asleep when we went out and the Tide of flood coming on before they waked we were forced to stay for them till the next day The 8th day in the morning we descried a sail to the West of us the Wind was at South and we chased her and before noon took her She was a Ship of about 90 Tun laden with Flower she came from Truxillio and was bound to Panama This Ship came very opportunely to us for Flower began to grow scarce and Captain Davis his men grudg'd at what was given to Captain Swan who as I said before had none but what he had from Captain Davis We jogged on after this with a gentle gale towards Gorgonia an Island lying about 25 leagues from the Island Gallo The 9th day we anchored at Gorgonia on the West side of the Island in 38 fathom clean ground not 2 Cables length from the shore Gorgonia is an uninhabited Island in lat about 3 degrees North It is a pretty high Island and very remarkable by reason of 2 saddles or risings and fallings on the top It is about 2 leagues long and a league broad and it is 4 leagues from the Main At the West-end is another small Island The Land against the Anchoring place is low there is a small sandy Bay and good landing The Soil or Mold of it is black and deep in the low ground but on the side of the high Land it is a kind of a red clay This Island is very well cloathed with large Trees of several sorts that are flourishing and green all the year It 's very well watered with small Brooks that issue from the high Land Here are a great many little black Monkeys some Indian Conies and a few Snakes which are all the Land Animals that I know there It is reported of this Island that it rains on every day in the year more or less but that I can disprove however it is a very wet Coast and it rains abundantly here all the year long There are but few fair days for there is little difference in the seasons of the year between the wet and dry only in that season which should be the dry time the rains are less frequent and more moderate than in the wet season for then it pours as out of a Sieve It is deep water and no anchoring any where about this Island only at that West side The Tyde riseth and falleth 7 or 8 foot up and down Here are a great many Perewincles and Muscles to be had at low water Then the Monkeys come down by the Sea side and catch them digging them out of their Shells with their Claws Here are Pearl-Oysters in great plenty They grow to the loose Rocks in 4 5 or 6 fathom water by beards or little small roots as a Muscle These Oysters are commonly flatter and thinner than other Oysters otherwise much alike in shape The fish is not sweet nor very wholsome it is as slimy as a Shell-Snail they taste very copperish if eaten raw and are best boyl'd The Indians who gather them for the Spaniards hang the meat of them on strings like Jews-ears and dry them before they eat them The Pearl is found at the head of the Oyster lying between the meat and the shell Some will have 20 or 30 small Seed-Pearl some none at all and some will have 1 or 2 pretty large ones The inside of the shell is more glorious than the Pearl itfelf I did never see any in the South Seas but here It is reported there are some at the South end of Callifornia In the West Indies the Rancho Rejs or Rancheria spoken of in Chap. 3. is the place where they are found most plentifully 'T is said there are some at the Island Margarita near St. Augustin a Town in the Gulf of Florida c. In the East Indies The Island Ainam near the South end of China is said to have plenty of these Oysters more productive of large round Pearl than those in other other places They are found also in other parts of the East Indies on the Persian Coast. At this Island Gorgona we rummaged our Prize and found a few Boxes of Marmalade and 3 or 4 Jars of Brandy which were equally shared between Captain Davis Captain Swan and their Men. Here we fill'd all our Water and Captain Swan furnished himself with Flower afterward we turned ashore a great many Prisoners but kept the chiefest to put them ashore in a better place The 13th day we sailed from hence toward the Kings Islands We were now 6 Sail 2 Men of War 2 Tenders a Fireship and the Prize We had but little Wind but what we had was the common Trade at South The Land we sailed by on the Main is very low towards the Sea side but in the Country there are very high Mountains The 16th day we passed by Cape Corrientes This Cape is in lat 5 d. 10 m. it is high bluff Land with 3 or 4 small Hillocks on the top It appears at a distance like an Island Here we found a strong current running to the North but whether it be always so I know not The day after we passed by the Cape we saw a small white Island which we chased supposing it had been a Sail till coming near we found our error The 21st day we saw Point Garrachina This Point is in lat 7 d. 20 m. North it is pretty high Land rocky and destitute of Trees yet within Land it is Woody It is fenced with Rocks against the Sea Within the Point by the Sea at low Water you may find store of Oysters and Muscles The Kings Islands or Pearl Keys are about 12 leagues distant from this Point Between Point Garqchina and them there is a small low flat barren Island called Gallera at which Captain Harris was sharing with his Men the Gold he took in his pillaging Sancta Maria which I spake of a little before when on a sudden 5 Spanish Barks fitted out on purpose at Panama came upon him but he fought them so stoutly with one small Bark he had and some few Canoas boarding their Admiral particularly that they were all glad to leave him By this Island we anchored and sent our Boats to the Kings Islands for a a good careening place The Kings Islands are a great many low woody Islands lying N. W. by N. and S. E. by S. They are about 7 leagues from the Main and 14 leagues in length and from Panama about 12 leagues Why they are called the Kings Islands I know not they are sometimes and mostly in Maps called the Pearl Islands I cannot imagin wherefore they are called so for I did
never see one Pearl Oyster about them nor any Pearl Oyster Shells but on the other Oysters I have made many a Meal there The northermost Island of all this range is called Pacheca or Pacheque This is but a small Island distant from Panama 11 or 12 leagues The Southermost of them is called St. Pauls Besides these two I know no more that are called by any particular name though there are many that far exceed either of the two in bigness Some of these Islands are planted with Plantains and Bonanas and there are Fields of Rice on others of them The Gentlemen of Panama to whom they belong keep Negroes there to plant weed and husband the Plantations Many of them especially the largest are wholly untill'd yet very good fat Land full of large Trees These unplanted Islands shelter many Runaway Negroes who abscond in the Woods all day and in the night boldly pillage the Plantain Walks Betwixt these Islands and the Main is a Channel of 7 or 8 leagues wide there is good depth of Water and good anchoring all the way The Islands border thick on each other yet they make many small narrow deep Channels fit only for Boats to pass between most of them At the S. E. end about a league from St. Pauls Island there is a good place for Ships to careen or hale ashore It is surrounded with the Land and hath a good deep Channel on the North side to go in at The tide riseth here about 10 foot perpendicular We brought our Ships into this place the 25th day but were forced to tarry for a Spring Tide before we could have Water enough to clean them therefore we first cleaned our Barks that they might cruise before Panama while we lay here The 27th day our Barks being clean we sent them out with 20 Men in each The fourth day after they returned with a Prize laden with Maiz or Indian Corn Salt Beef and Fowls She came from Lavelia and was bound to Panama Lavelia is a Town we once designed to attempt It is pretty large and stands on the Banks of a River on the North side of the Bay of Panama 6 or 7 leagues from the Sea Nata is another such Town standing in a Plain near another branch of the same River In these Towns and some others on the same Coast they breed Hogs Fowls Bulls and Cows and plant Maize purposely for the support of Panama which is supplied with Provision mostly from other Towns and the neighbouring Islands The Beef and Fowl our Men took came to us in a good time for we had eaten but little Flesh since we left the Island Plata The Harbor where we careen'd was incompassed by three Islands and our Ships rode in the middle That on which we haled our Ships ashore was a little Island on the North side of the Harbor The was a fine small sandy Bay but all the rest of the Island was invironed with Rocks on which at low Water we did use to gather Oysters Clams Muscles and Limpits The Clam is a sort of Oyster which grows so fast to the Rock that there is no separating it from thence therefore we did open it where it grows and take out the Meat which is very large fat and sweet Here are a few common Oysters such as we have in England of which sort I have met with none in these Seas but here at Point Garachina at Puna and on the Mexican Coast in the lat of 23 d. North. I have a Manuscript of Mr. Teat Captain Swan's chief Mate which gives an account of Oysters plentifully found in Port St. Julian on the East side and somewhat to the North of the Streights of Magellan but there is no mention made of what Oysters they are Here are some Guanoes but we found no other sort of Land Animal Here are also some Pigeons and Turtle-Doves The rest of the Islands that incompass this Harbor had of all these sorts of Creatures Our Men therefore did every day go over in Canoas to them to fish fowl or hunt for Guanoes but having one Man surprized once by some Spaniards lying there in Ambush and carried off by them to Panama we were after that more cautious of straggling The 14th day of February 1685. we made an end of cleaning our Ship fill'd all our Water and stock'd our selves with Fire-wood The 15th day we went out from among the Islands and anchored in the Channel between them and the Main in 25 fathom Water fast oazy ground The Plate Fleet was not yet arrived therefore we intended to cruise before the City of Panama which is from this place about 25 leagues The next day we sailed towards Panama passing in the Channel between the Kings Islands and the Main It is very pleasant sailing here having the Main on one side which appears in divers forms It is beautified with many small Hills cloathed with Woods of divers sorts of Trees which are always green and flourishing There are some few small high Islands within a league of the Main scattering here and there one These are partly woody partly bare and they as well as the Main appear very pleasant The Kings Islands are on the other side of this Channel and make also a very lovely prospect as you sail by them These as I have already noted are low and flat appearing in several shapes according as they are naturally formed by many small Creeks and Branches of the Sea The 16th day we anchored at Pacheque in 17 fathom Water about a league from the Island and sailed from thence the next day with the Wind at N. N. E. directing our course towards Panama When we came abrest of Old Panama we anchored and sent our Canoa ashore with our Prisoner Don Diego de Pinas with a Letter to the Governor to treat about an Exchange for our Man they had spirited away as I said and another Captain Harris left in the River of St. Maria the year before coming over Land Don Diego was desirous to go on this Errand in the name and with the consent of the rest of our Spanish Prisoners but by some accident he was killed before he got ashore as we heard afterwards Old Panama was formerly a famous place but it was taken by Sir Henry Morgan about the year 1673. and at that time great part of it was burned to ashes and it was never re-edified since New Panama is a very fair City standing close by the Sea about 4 mile from the Ruines of the Old Town It gives name to a large Bay which is famous for a great many navigable Rivers some whereof are very rich in Gold it is also very pleasantly sprinkled with Islands that are not only profitable to their Owners but very delightful to the Passengers and Seamen that sail by them some of which I have already described It is incompassed on the backside with a pleasant Country which is full of small Hills and Valleys beautified with
much esteemed by them for I have met with plenty of them in many places in the North Seas where the Spaniards are settled as in the Bay of Campechy on the Coast of Cartagena and the Coast of Carraccos and there are some in Jamaica which were planted by the Spaniards when they possessed that Island The Mammee-Sappota Tree is different from the Mammee described at the Isle of Tabago in this Chapter It is not so big or so tall neither is the Fruit so big or so round The rind of the Fruit is thin and brittle the inside is a deep red and it has a rough flat long stone This is accounted the principal Fruit of the West Indies It is very pleasant and wholsome I have not seen any of these on Jamaica but in many places in the West Indies among the Spaniards There is another sort of Mammee-tree which is called the wild Mammee This bears a Fruit which is of no value but the Tree is streight tall and very tough and therefore principally used for making Masts The Star Apple Tree grows much like the Quince Tree but much bigger It is full of leaves and the leaf is broad of an oval shape and of a very dark green colour The Fruit is as big as a large Apple which is commonly so covered with leaves that a man can hardly see it They say this is a good Fruit I did never taste any but have seen both of the Trees and Fruit in many places on the Main on the North side of the Continent and in Jamaica When the Spaniards possest that Island they planted this and other sorts of Fruit as the Sapadillo Avogaâ—…o Pear and the like and of these Fruits there is still in Jamaica in those Plantations that were first settled by the Spaniards as at the Angels at 7 mile Walk and 16 mile Walk There I have seen these Trees which were planted by the Spaniards but I did never see any improvement made by the English who seem in that little curious The Road for Ships is on the North side where there is good anchoring half a mile from the shore There is a Well close by the Sea on the North side and formerly there were 3 or 4 Houses close by it but now they are destroyed This Island stands right against the mouth of the River Cheapo The River Cheapo springs out of the Mountains near the North side of the Country and it being penn'd up on the South side by other Mountains bends its course to the Westward between both till finding a passage on the S. W. it makes a kind of a half circle and being swell'd to a considerable bigness it runs with a slow motion into the Sea 7 leagues from Panama This River is very deep and about a quarter of a mile broad but the mouth of it is choaked up with Sands so that no Ships can enter but Barks may There is a small Spanish Town of the same name within 6 leagues of the Sea it stands on the left hand going from the Sea This is it which I said Captain La Sound attempted The Land about it is champion with many small Hills cloathed with Weeds but the biggest part of the Country is Savannah On the South side of the River it is all wood-land for many leagues together It was to this Town that our 250 Men were sent The 24th day they returned out of the River having taken the Town without any opposition but they found nothing in it By the way going thither they took a Canoa but most of the Men escaped ashore upon one of the Kings Islands She was sent out well appointed with armed Men to watch our motion The 25th day Captain Harris came to us having cleaned his Ship The 26th day we went again toward Tabago our Fleet now upon Captain Harris joining us again consisted of 10 Sail. We arrived at Tabago the 28th day there our Prisoners were examined concerning the strength of Panama for now we thought our selves strong enough for such an Enterprize being near 1000 Men. Out of these on occasion we could have landed 900 but our Prisoners gave us small Encouragement to it for they assured us that all the strength of the Country was there and that many Men were come from Portobel besides its own Inhabitants who of themselves were more in number than we These reasons together with the strength of the place which hath a high Wall deterr'd us from attempting it While we lay here at Tabago some of our men burnt the Town on the Island The 4th of May we failed hence again bound for the Kings Islands and there we continu'd cruising from one end of these Islands to the other till on the 22d day Captain Davis and Captain Gronet went to Pacheque leaving the rest of the Fleet at anchor at St. Pauls Island From Pacheque we sent 2 Canoas to the Island Chepelio in hopes to get a Prisoner there The 25th day our Canoas return'd from Chepelio with three Prisoners which they took there They were Sea-men belonging to Panama who said that provision was so scarce and dear there that the poor were almost starved being hindred by us from those common and daily supplies of Plantains which they did formerly injoy from the Islands especially from those two of Chepelio and Tabago That the President of Panama had strictly ordered that none should adventure to any of the Islands for Plantains but necessity had obliged them to trespass against the Presidents Order They farther reported that the Fleet from Lima was expected every day for it was generally talked that they were come from Lima and that the report at Panama was that King Charles 2d of England was dead and that the Duke of York was crowned King The 27th day Captain Swan and Captain Townly also came to Pacheque where we lay but Captain Swan s Bark was gone in among the Kings Islands for Plantains The Island Pacheque as I have before related is the northermost of the Kings Islands It is a small low Island about a league round On the South side of it there are 2 or 3 small Islands neither of them half a mile round Between Pacheque and these Islands is a small channel not above 6 or 7 paces wide and about a mile long Through this Captain Townly made a bold run being prest hard by the Spaniards in the fight I am going to speak of though he was ignorant whether there was a sufficient depth of Water or not On the East side of thiss Channel all our Fleet lay waiting for the Lima Fleet which we were in hopes would come this way The 28th day we had a very wet morning for the Rains were come in as they do usually in May or June sooner or later so that May is here a very uncertain month Hitherto till within a few days we had had good fair weather and the Wind at N. N. E. but now the weather was altered and the Wind at
and West Indies for thatching Houses they are very lasting and serviceable much surpassing the Palmeto For this Thatch if well laid on will endure 5 or 6 years and this is called by the Spaniards the Palmeto Royal. The English at Jamaica give it the same Name Whether this be the same which they in Guinea get the Palm-wine from I know not but I know that it is like this The Land in the Country is full of small peeked barren Hills making as many little Valleys which appear flourishing and green At the West end of this Bay is the Hill of Petaplan in lat 17d 30 m. N. This is a round point stretching out into the Sea at a distance it seems to be an Island A little to the West of this Hill are several round Rocks which we left without us steering in between them and the round point where we had 11 fathom water We came to an anchor on the N. W. side of the Hill and went ashore about 170 Men of us and marched into the Country 12 or 14 miles There we came to a poor Indian Village that did not afford us a Meal of Victuals The people all fled only a Mulatto woman and 3 or 4 small Children who were taken and brought aboard She told us that a Carrier one who drives a Caravan of Mules was going to Acapulco laden with Flower and other Goods but stopt in the Road for fear of us a little to the West of this Village for he had heard of our being on this Coast and she thought he still remained there and therefore it was we kept the Woman to be our Guide to carry us to that place At this place where we now lay our Moskito-men struck some small Turtle and many small Jew-fish The Jew-fish is a very good Fish and I judge so called by the English because it hath Scales and Fins therefore a clean Fish according to the Levitical Law and the Jews at Jamaica buy them and eat them very freely It is a very large Fish shaped much like a Cod but a great deal bigger one will weigh 3 or 4 or 5 hundred weight It hath 3 large head with great Fins and Scales as big as an Half-Crown answerable to the bigness of his body It is very sweet Meat and commonly fat This Fish lives among Rocks there are plenty of them in the West Indies about Jamaica and the Coast of Caraccos but chiefly in these Seas especially more Westward We went from hence with our Ships the 18th day and steered West about 2 leagues farther to a place called Chequetan A mile and half from the shore there is a small Key and within it is a very good Harbour where Ships may careen there is also a small River of fresh water and wood enough The 14th day in the morning we went with 95 Men in 6 Canoas to seek for the Carrier taking the Mulatto woman for our Guide but Captain Townly would not go with us Before day we landed at a place called Estapa a league to the West of Chequetan The woman was well acquainted here having been often at this place for Muscles as she told us for here are great plenty of them they seem in all respects like our English Muscles She carry'd us through the pathless Wood by the side of a River for about a league then we came into a Savannah full of Bulls and Cows and here the Carrier before mentioned was lying at the Estantion-house with his Mules not having dared to advance all this while as not knowing where we lay so his own fear made him his Mules and all his Goods become a Prey to us He had 40 packs of Flower some Chocolate a great many small Cheeses and abundance of Earthen Ware The eatables we brought away but the Earthen Vessels we had no occasion for and therefore left them The Mules were about 60 we brought our Prize with them to the shore and so turn'd them away Here we also kill'd some Cows and brought with us to our Canoas In the afternoon our Ships came to an anchor half a mile from the place where we landed and then we went aboard Captain Townly seeing our good success went ashore with his Men to kill some Cows for here were no Inhabitants near to oppose us The Land is very woody of a good fertile soil watered with many small Rivers yet it hath but few Inhabitants near the Sea Captain Townly killed 18 Beefs and after he came aboard our Men contrary to Captain Swan's inclination gave Captain Townly part of the Flower which we took ashore Afterwards we gave the Woman some Cloaths for her and her Children and put her and two of them ashore but one of them a very pretty Boy about 7 or 8 years old Captain Swan kept The Woman cried and begg'd hard to have him but Captain Swan would not but promis'd to make much of him and was as good as his word He proved afterwards a very fine Boy for Wit Courage and Dexterity I have often wonder'd at his Expressions and Actions The 21st day in the evening we sailed hence with the Land-wind The Land-winds on this part of the Coast are at N. and the Sea-winds at W. S. W. We had fair weather and coasted along to the Westward The Land is high and full of ragged Hills and West from these ragged Hills the Land makes many pleasant and fruitful Valleys among the Mountains The 25th day we were abrest of a very remarkable Hill which towring above the rest of its fellows is divided in the top and makes two small parts It is in lat 18 d. 8 m. North. The Spaniards make mention of a Town called Thelupan near this Hill which we would have visited if we could have found the way to it The 26th day Captain Swan and Captain Townly with 200 Men of whom I was one went in our Canoas to seek for the City of Colima a rich place by report but how far within Land I could never learn for as I said before here is no Trade by Sea and therefore we could never get Guides to inform us or conduct us to any Town but one or two on this Coast and there is never a Town that lieth open to the Sea but Acapulco and therefore our search was commonly fruitless as now for we rowed above 20 leagues along shore and found it a very bad Coast to land we saw no House nor sign of Inhabitants although we past by a fine Valley called the Valley of Maguella only at two places the one at our first setting out on this Expedttion and the other at the end of it we saw a Horseman set as we supposed as a Centinel to watch us At both places we landed with difficulty and at each place we followed the track of the Horse on the sandy Bay but where they entered the Woods we lost the track and although we diligently searcht for it yet we could find it no more so we
we came I mean by the North West I know there have been divers attempts made about a North West Passage and all unsuccessful yet I am of opinion that such a Passage may be found All our Countrymen that have gone to discover the N. W. Passage have endeavoured to pass to the Westward beginning their search along Davis's or Hudsons Bay But if I was to go on this Discovery I would go first into the South Seas bend my course from thence along by California and that way seek a Passage back into the West Seas For as others have spent the Summer in first searching on this more known side nearer home and so before they got through the time of the year obliged them to give over their search and provide for a long course back again for fear of being left in the Winter on the contrary I would search first on the less known Coasts of the South Sea side and then as the year past away I should need no retreat for I should come farther into my knowledge if I succeeded in my attempt and should be without that dread and fear which the others must have in passing from the known to the unknown who for ought I know gave over their search just as they were on the point of accomplishing their desires I would take the same method if I was to go to discover the North East Passage I would winter about Japan Corea or the North East part of China and taking the Spring and Summer before me I would make my first Trial on the Coast of Tartary wherein if I succeeded I should come into some known parts and have a great deal of time before me to reach Archangel or some other Port. Captain Wood indeed says this North East Passage is not to be found for Ice but how often do we see that sometimes designs have been given over as impossible and at another time and by other ways those very things have been accomplished But enough of this The next day after that fatal Skirmish near Santa Pecaque Captain Swan ordered all our Water to be fill d and to get ready to sail The 21st day we sailed from hence directing our course towards California we had the Wind at N. W. and W. N. W. a small gale with a great Sea out of the West We past by 3 Islands called the Maria's After we past these Islands we had much Wind at N. N. W. and N. W. and at N. with thick rainy weather We beat till the 6th day of February but it was against a brisk Wind and proved labour in vain For we were now within reach of the Land Trade-wind which was opposite to us but would we go to California upon any Discovery or otherwise we should bear 60 or 70 leagues off from shore where we should avoid the Land-winds and have the benefit of the true Easterly Trade-wind Finding therefore that we got nothing but rather lost ground being then in 21 d. 5 m. N. we steered away more to the Eastward again for the Islands Maria's and the 7th day we came to an anchor at the East end of the middle Island in 8 fathom Water good clean Sand. The Maria's are three uninhabited Islands in lat 21 d. 40 m. they are distant from Cape St. Lucas on California 40 leagues bearing West South West and they are distant from Cape Corrientes 20 leagues bearing upon the same points of the Compass with Cape St. Lucas They stretch N. W. and S. E. about 14 leagues There are 2 or 3 small high Rocks near them The Westermost of them is the biggest Island of the three and they are all three of an indifferent heighth The soil is stony and dry the land in most places is covered with a shrubby sort of Wood very thick and troublesome to pass through In some places there is plenty of straight large Cedars though speaking of the places where I have found Cedars Chap. 3. I forgot to mention this place The Spaniards make mention of them in other places but I speak of those which I have seen All round by the Sea side it is sandy and there is produced a green prickly Plant whose leaves are much like the Penguin-leaf and the root like the root of a Seâ—…pervive but much larger This root being bak d in an Oven is good to eat and the Indians on California as I have been informed have great part of their subsistence from these roots We made an Oven in a sandy Bank and baked of these Roots and I eat of them but none of us greatly cared for them They taste exactly like the Roots of our English Burdocks boil'd of which I have eaten Here are plenty of Guanoes and Raccoons a large sort of Rat and Indian Conies and abundance of large Pigeons and Turtle-Doves The Sea is also pretty well stored with Fish and Turtle or Tortoise and Seal This is the second place on this Coast where I did see any Seal and this place helps to confirm what I have observed that they are seldom seen but where there is plenty of Fish Captain Swan gave the middle Island the Name of Prince George's Island The 8th day we run nearer the Island and anchored in 5 fathom and moored Head and Stern and unrigg d both Ship and Bark in order to careen Here Captain Swan proposed to go into the East Indies Many were well pleased with the Voyage but some thought such was their ignorance that he would carry them out of the world for about 2 thirds of our Men did not think there was any such way to be found but at last he gain'd their consents At our first coming hither we did eat nothing but Seal but after the first 2 or 3 days our Strikers brought aboard Turtle every day on which we fed all the time that we lay here and saved our Maiz for our Voyage Here also we measured all our Maiz and found we had about 80 Bushels This we divided into 3 parts one for the Bark and two for the Ship our Men were divided also 100 men aboard the Ship and 50 aboard the Bark besides 3 or 4 Slaves in each I had been a long time sick of a Dropsy a distemper whereof as I said before many of our men died so here I was laid and covered all but my head in the hot Sand I indured it near half an hour and then was taken out and laid to sweat in a Tent. I did sweat exceedingly while I was in the Sand and I do believe it did me much good for I grew well soon after We staid here till the 26th day and then both Vessels being clean we sailed to the Valley of Balderas to water for we could not do it here now In the wet Season indeed here is Water enough for the Brooks then run down plentifully but now though there was Water yet it was bad filling it being a great way to fetch it from the holes were it lodged The
largest Apple-trees It hath a spreading head full of branches and dark leaves The Fruit grows on the boughs like Apples it is as big as a Penny Loaf when VVheat is at 5 Shillings the Bushel It is of a round shape and hath a thick tough â—…ind VVhen the Fruit is ripe it is yellow and soft and the taste is sweet and pleasant The Natives of this Island use it for Bread they gather it when full grown while it is green and hard then they bake it in an Oven which scorcheth the rind and makes it black but they scrape off the outside black crust and there remains a tender thin crust and the inside is soft tender and white like the crumb of a Penny Loaf There is neither seed nor stone in the inside but all is of a pure substance like Bread it must be eaten new for if it is kept above 24 hours it becomes dry and eats harsh and choaky but 't is very pleasant before it is too stale This Fruit lasts in season 8 months in the year during which time the Natives eat no other sort of food of Bread kind I did never see of this Fruit any where but here The Natives told us that there is plenty of this Fruit growing on the rest of the Ladrone Islands and I did never hear of any of it any where else They have here some Rice also but the Island being of a dry soil and therefore not very proper for it they do not sow very much Fish is scarce about this Island yet on the Shole that our Bark came over there was great plenty and the Natives commonly go thither to fish The natives of this Island are strong bodied large limb'd and well shap'd They are Copper-coloured like other Indians their hair is black and long their Eyes meanly proportioned they have pretty high Noses their Lips are pretty full and their Teeth indifferent white They are long visaged and stern of countenance yet we found them to be affable and courteous They are many of them troubled with a kind of a Leprosie This distemper is very common at Mindanao therefore I shall speak more of it in my next Chapter They of Guam are otherwise very healthy especially in the dry season but in the wet season which comes in in June and holds till October the air is more thick and unwholsome which occasions Fevers but the rains are not violent nor lasting For the Island lyes so far Westerly from the Philippine Islands or any other Land that the Westerly winds do seldom blow so far and when they do they do not last long but the Easterly Winds do consiantly blow here which are dry and healthy and this Island is found to be very healthful as we were informed while we lay by it The natives are very ingenious beyond any people in making Boats or Proes as they are called in the East Indies and therein they take great delight These are built sharp at both ends the bottom is of one piece made like the bottom of a little Canoa very neatly dug and left of a good substance This bottom part is instead of a Keel It is about 26 or 28 foot long the under part of this Keel is made round but inclining to a wedge and smooth and the upper part is almost flat having a very gentle hollow and is about a foot broad From hence both sides of the Boat are carried up to about 5 foot high with narrow plank not above 4 or 5 inches broad and each end of the Boat turns up round very prettily But what is very singular one side of the Boat is made perpendicular like a Wall while the other side is rounding made as other Vessels are with a pretty full belly Just in the middle it is about 4 or 5 foot broad aloft or more according to the length of the Boat The Mast stands exactly in the middle with a long Yard that peeksup and down like a Mizen-yard One end of it reacheth down to the end or head of the Boat where it is placed in a notch that is made there purposely to receive it and keep it fast The other end hangs over the stern To this yard the sail is fastened At the foot of the sail there is another small yard to keep the sail out square and to roll up the sail on when it blows hard for it serves instead of a reef to take up the sail to what degree they please according to the strength of the Wind. Along the belly-side of the Boat parallel with it at about 6 or 7 foot distance lies another small Boat or Canoa being a Log of very light Wood almost as long as the great Boat but not so wide being not above a foot and an half wide at the upper part and very sharp like a wedge at each end And there are two Bamboas of about 8 or 10 foot long and as big as ones Leg placed over the great Boats side one near each end of it and reaching about 6 or 7 foot from the side of the Boat by the help of which the little Boat is made firm and contiguous to the other These are generally called by the Dutch and by the English from them Outlagers The use of them is to keep the great Boat upright from over-setting because the Wind here being in a manner constantly East or if it were at West it would be the same thing and the Range of these Islands where their business lies to and fro being mostly North and South they turn the flat side of the Boat against the Wind upon which they sail and the belly-side consequently with its little Boat is upon the Lee and the Vessel having a Head at each end so as to sail with either of them foremost indifferently they need not tack or go about as all our Vessels do but each end of the Boat serves either for head or stern as they please When they ply to windward and are minded to go about he that steers bears away a little from the Wind by which means the stern comes to the Wind which is now become the head only by shifting the end of the yard This Boat is steered with a broad Paddle instead of a Rudder I have been the more particular in describing these Boats because I do believe they sail the best of any Boats in the world I did here for my own satisfaction try the swiftness of one of them sailing by our Log we had 12 knots on our reel and she run it all out before the half minute glass was half out which if it had been no more is after the rate of 12 mile an hour but I do believe she would have run 24 mile an hour It was very pleasant to see the little Boat running along so swift by the others side The Native Indians are not less dexterous in managing than in building these Boats By report they will go from hence to another of the Ladrone
Islands about 30 leagues off and there do their business and return again in less than 12 hours I was told that one of these Boats was sent Express to Manila which is above 400 leagues and performed the Voyage in 4 days time There are of these Proes or Boats used in many places of the East Indies but with a Belly and a little Boat on each side Only at Mindanao I saw one like these with the belly and little Boat only on one side and the other flat but not so neatly built The Indians of Guam have neat little Houses very handsomely thatch'd with Palmeto-thatch They inhabit together in Villages built by the Sea on the West side and have Spanish Priests to instruct them in the Christian Religion The Spaniards have a small Fort on the West side near the South end with 6 Guns in it There is a Governour and 20 or 30 Spanish Souldiers There are no more Spaniards on the Island beside 2 or 3 Priests Not long before we arriv'd here the Natives rose on the Spaniards to destroy them and did kill many but the Governour with his Souldiers at length prevailed and drove them out of the Fort So when they found themselves disappointed of their intent they destroyed the Plantations and stock and then went away to other Islands There were then 3 or 400 Indians on this Island but now there are not above 100 for all that were in this Conspiracy went away As for these who yet remain if they were not actually concerned in that broil yet their hearts also are bent against the Spaniards for they offered to carry us to the Fort and assist us in the Conquest of the Island but C. Swan was not for molesting the Spaniards here Before we came to an anchor here one of the Priests came aboard in the night with 3 Indians They first hailed us to know from whence we came and what we were to whom answer was made in Spanish that we were Spaniards and that we came from Acapulco It being dark they could not see the make of our Ship nor very well discern what we were Therefore they came aboard but perceiving the mistake that they were in in taking us for a Spanish Ship they endeavoured to get from us again but we held their Boat fast and made them come in Captain Swan received the Priest with much civility and conducting him into the great Cabbin declared that the reason of our coming to this Island was want of Provision and that he came not in any hostile manner but as a friend to purchase with his Money what he wanted and therefore desired the Priest to write a Letter to the Governor to inform him what we were and on what account we came For having him now aboard the Captain was willing to detain him as an Hostage till we had Provision The Padre told Captain Swan that Provision was now scarce on the Island but he would engage that the Governour would do his utmost to furnish us In the morning the Indians in whose Boat or Prow the Frier came aboard were sent to the Governour with 2 Letters one from the Frier and another very obliging one from Captain Swan and a Present of 4 yards of Scarlet-cloath and a piece of broad Silver and Gold Lace The Governor lives near the South end of the Island on the West side which was about 5 leagues from the place where we were therefore we did not expect an answer till the evening not knowing then how nimble they were Therefore when the Indian Canoa was dispatched away to the Governor we hoised out 2 of our Canoas and sent one a fishing and the other ashore for Coco-nuts Our fishing Canoa got nothing but the Men that went ashore for Coco-nuts came off laden About 11 a clock that same morning the Governor of the Island sent a Letter to Captain Swan complimenting him for his Present and promising to support us with as much Provision as he could possibly spare and as a token of his gratitude he sent a Present of 6 Hogs of a small sort most excellent Meat the best I think that ever I eat they are fed with Coco-nuts and their flesh is hard as Brisket Beef They were doubtless of that breed in America which came originally from Spain He sent also 12 Muskmelons larger than ours in England and as many Water-melons both sorts here being a very excellent Fruit and sent an order to the Indians that lived in a Village not far from our Ship to bake every day as much of the Bread-fruit as we did desire and to assist us in getting as many dry Coco-nuts as we would have which they accordingly did and brought off the Bread-fruit every day hot as much as we could eat After this the Governour sent every day a Canoa or two with Hogs and Fruit and desired for the same Powder Shot and Arms which was sent according to his request We had a delicate large English Dog which the Governour did desire and had it given him very freely by the Captain though much against the grain of many of his Men who had a great value for that Dog Captain Swan endeavoured to get this Governours Letter of Recommendation to some Merchants at Manila for he had then a design to go to Fort St. George and from thence intended to trade to Manila but this his design was concealed from the company While we lay here the Acapulco Ship arrived in sight of the Island but did not come in sight of us for the Governour sent an Indian Proe with advice of our being here Therefore she stood off to the South-ward of the Island and coming foul of the same shole that our Bark had run over before was in great danger of being lost there for she struck off her Rudder and with much ado got clear but not till after three days labour For tho the shole be so near the Island and the Indians go off and fish there every day yet the Master of the Acapulco Ship who should one would think know these parts was utterly ignorant of it This their striking on the shole we heard afterward when we were on the Coast of Manila but these Indians of Guam did speak of her being in sight of the Island while we lay there which put our men in a great heat to go out after her but Captain Swan perswaded them out of that humour for he was now wholly averse to any hostile action The 30th day of May the Governour sent his last Present which was some Hogs a Jar of pickled Mangoes a Jar of excellent pickled Fish and a Jar of fine Rusk or Bread of fine Wheat Flower baked like Bisket but not so hard He sent besides 6 or 7 packs of Rice desiring to be excused from sending any more Provision to us saying he had no more on the Island that he could spare He sent word also that the West Monsoon was at hand that therefore it behoved
us to be jogging from hence unless we were resolved to return back to America again Captain Swan returned him thanks for his kindness and advice and took his leave and the same day sent the Frier ashore that was seized on at our first arrival and gave him a large Brass Clock an Astralobe and a large Telescope for which Present the Frier sent us aboard 6 Hogs and a roasting Pig 3 or 4 Bushels of Potatoes and 50 l. of Manila Tobacco Then we prepared to be gone being pretty well furnished with Provision to carry us to Mindanao where we designed next to touch We took aboard us as many Coco-nuts as we could well stow and we had a good stock of Rice and about 50 Hogs in Salt CHAP. XI They resolve to go to Mindanao Their departure from Guam Of the Philippine Islands The Isle Luconia and its chief Town and Port Manilo Manila or Manilbo Of the rich Trade we might establish with these Islands St. Johns Island They arrive at Mindanao The Island described It s Fertility The Libby Trees and the Sago made of them The Plantain Tree Fruit Liquor and Cloth A smaller Plantain at Mindanao The Bonano Of the Clove-bark Cloves and Nutmegs and the Methods taken by the Dutch to monopolize the Spices The Betel-nut and Arek tree The Durian and the Jaca tree and Fruit. The Beasts of Mindanao Centapes or Forty Legs a venemous Insect and others Their Fowls Fish c. The Temperature of the Climate with the Course of the Winds Tornadoes Rain and Temper of the Air throughout the year WHile we lay at Guam we took up a Resolution of going to Mindanao one of the Philippine Islands being told by the Frier and others that it was exceedingly well stored with Provisions that the Natives were Mahometans and that they had formerly a Commerce with the Spaniards but that now they were at wars with them This Island was therefore thought to be a convenient place for us to go to for besides that it was in our way to the East Indies which we had resolved to visit and that the Westerly Monsoon was at hand which would oblige us to shelter some where in a short time and that we could not expect good Harbours in a better place than in so large an Island as Mindanao besides all this I say the Inhabitants of Mindanao being then as we were told tho falsly at Wars with the Spaniards our Men who it should seem were very squeamish of plundering without Licence derived hopes from thence of getting a Commission there from the Prince of the Island to plunder the Spanish Ships about Manila and so to make Mindanao their common Rendezvouz And if Captain Swan was minded to go to an English Port yet his Men who thought he intended to leave them hoped to get Vessels and Pilots at Mindanao fit for their turn to cruise on the Coast of Manila As for Captain Swan he was willing enough to go thither as best suiting his own design and therefore this Voyage was concluded on by general consent Accordingly June 22d 1686. we left Guam bound for Mindanoa We had fair weather and a pretty smart gale of Wind at East for 3 or 4 days and then it shifted to the S. W. being rainy but it soon came about again to the East and blew a gentle gale yet it often shuffled about to the S. E. For though in the East Indies the Winds shift in April yet we found this to be the shifting season for the Winds here the other shifting season being in October sooner or later all over India As to our course from Guam to the Philippine Islands we found it as I intimated before agreeable enough with the account of our common Draughts The 21st day of July we arrived at the Island St. John which is one of the Philippine Islands The Philippines are a great company of large Islands taking up about 13 deg of Lat. in length reaching near upon from 5 d. of North Lat. to the 19th degree and in breadth about 6 deg of Longitude They derive this Name from Philip the 2d King of Spain and even now they do most of them belong to that Crown The chiefest Island in this range is Luconia which lies on the North of them all At this Island Magellan died in the Voyage that he was making round the VVorld For after he had past those Streights between the South end of America and Terra del Fuego which now bear his Name and had ranged down in the South Seas on the back of America from thence stretching over to the East Indies he fell in with the Ladrone Islands and from thence steering East still he fell in with these Philippine Islands and anchored at Luconia where he warr'd with the native Indians to bring them in obedience to his master the King of Spain and was by them kill'd with a poysoned Arrow It is now wholly under the Spaniards who have several Towns there The chief is Manilo which is a large Sea-port Town near the S. E. end opposite to the Island Mindora It is a place of great strength and trade The two great Acapulco Ships before-mentioned fetching from hence all sorts of East-India commodities which are brought hither by foreigners especially by the Chinese and the Portuguese Sometimes the English Merchants of Fort St. George send their Ships hither as it were by stealth under the charge of Portugueze Pilots and Mariners for as yet we cannot get the Spaniards there to a commerce with us or the Dutch although they have but few Ships of their own This seems to arise from a jealousie or fear of discovering the riches of these Islands for most if not all the Philippine Islands are rich in Gold and the Spaniards have no place of much strength in all these Islands that I could ever hear of besides Manilo it self Yet they have Villages and Towns on several of the Islands and Padres or Priests to instruct the native Indians from whom they get their Gold The Spanish Inhabitants of the smaller Islands especially would willingly trade with us if the Government was not so severe against it for they have no goods but what are brought from Manilo at an extraordinary dear rate I am of the opinion that if any of our Nations would seek a trade with them they would not lose their labour for the Spaniards can and will Smuggle as our Sea-men call Trading by stealth as well as any Nation that I know and our Jamaicans are to their profit sensible enough of it And I have been informed that Captain Goodlud of London in a Voyage which he made from Mindanao to China touch'd at some of these Islands and was civilly treated by the Spaniards who bought some of his Commodities giving him a very good price for the same There are about 12 or 14 more large Islands lying to the Southwards of Luconia most of which as I said before are inhabited by the Spaniards
the Spice into their own hands There was another opportunity offered us here of settling on another Spice Island that was very well inhabited for the Inhabitants fearing the Dutch and understanding that the English were settling at Mindanao their Sultan sent his Nephew to Mindanao while we were there to invite us thither Captain Swan conferr'd with him about it divers times and I do believe he had some inclination to accept the offer and I am sure most of the men were for it but this never came to a head for want of a true understanding between Captain Swan and his Men as may be declared hereafter Beside the benefit which might accrue from this Trade with Meangis and other the Spice Islands the Philippine Islands themselves by a little care and industry might have afforded us a very beneficial Trade and all these Trades might have been managed from Mindanao by settling there first For that Island lyeth very convenient for Trading either to the Spice Islands or to the rest of the Philippine Islands since as its Soil is much of the same nature with either of them so it lies as it were in the Center of the Gold and Spice Trade in these parts the Islands North of Mindanao abounding most in Gold and those South of Meangis in Spice As the Island Mindanao lies very convenient for Trade so considering its distance the way thither may not be over long and tiresome The course that I would choose should be to set out of England about the latter end of August and to pass round Terra del Fuego and so stretching over towards New Holland coast it along that shore till I came near to Mindanao or first I would coast down near the American shore as far as I found convenient and then direct my course accordingly for the Island By this I should avoid coming near any of the Dutch settlements and be sure to meet always with a constant brisk Easterly Trade Wind after I was once past Terra del Fuego Whereas in passing about the Cape of Good Hope after you are shot over the East Indian Ocean and are come to the Islands you must past thro the Streights of Malacca or Sundy or else some other Streights East from Java where you will be sure to meet with Counter-winds go on which side of the Equator you please and this would require ordinarily 7 or 8 months for the Voyage but the other I should hope to perform in 6 or 7 at most In your return from thence also you must observe the same Rule as the Spaniards do in going from Manila to Acapulco only as they run towards the North Pole for variable Winds so you must run to the South-ward till you meet with a Wind that will carry you over to Terra del Fuego There are places enough to touch at for Refreshments either going or coming You may touch going thither on either side of Terra Patagonica or if you please at the Gallapagoes Islands where there is Refreshment enough and returning you may probably touch somewhere on New Holland and so make some profitable discovery in these places without going out of your way And to speak my thoughts freely I believe 't is owing to the neglect of this easy way that all that vast Tract of Terra Australis which bounds the South Sea is yet undiscovered those that cross that Sea seeming to design some business on the Peruvian or Mexican Coast and so leaving that at a distance To confirm which I shall add what Captain Davis told me lately that after his Departure from us at the Haven of Ria Lexa as is mentioned in the 8th Chap. he went after several Traverses to the Gallapagoes and that standing thence Southward for Wind to bring him about Terra del Fuego in the Lat. of 27 South about 500 leagues from Copayapo on the Coast of Chili he saw a small sandy Island just by him and that they saw to the Westward of it a long tract of pretty high Land tending away toward the North West out of sight This might probably be the Coast of Terra Australis Incognita But to return to Mindanao as to the capacity we were then in of setting our selves at Mindanao although we were not sent out of any such design of settling yet we were as well provided or better considering all circumstances than if we had For there was scarce any useful Trade but some or others of us understood it We had Sawyers Carpenters Joyners Brickmakers Bricklayers Shoemakers Taylors c. we only wanted a good Smith for great work which we might have had at Mindanao We were very well provided with Iron Lead and all sorts of Tools as Saws Axes Hammers c. We had Powder and Shot enough and very good small Arms. If we had designed to build a Fort we could have spared 8 or 10 Guns out of our Ship and Men enough to have managed it and any affair of Trade beside We had also a great advantage above raw Men that are sent out of England into these places who proceed usually too cautiously coldly and formerly to compass any considerable design which Experience better teaches than any Rules whatsoever besides the danger of their Lives in so great and sudden a a change of Air whereas we were all inured to hot Climates hardned by many fatigues and in general daring Men and such as would not be easily baffled To add one thing more our Men were almost tired and began to desire a quietus est and therefore they would gladly have seated themselves any where We had a good Ship too and enough of us beside what might have been spared to manage our new Settlement to bring the News with the effects to the Owners in England for Captain Swan had already 5000 l. in Gold which he and his Merchants received for goods sold mostly to Captain Harris and his men which if he had laid but part of it out in Spice as probably he might have done would have satisfy'd the Merchants to their hearts content So much by way of digression To proceed therefore with our first Reception at Mindanao Raja Laut and his Nephew sat still in their Canoa and would not come aboard us because as they said they had no orders for it from the Sultan After about half an hours discourse they took their leaves first inviting Captain Swan ashore and promising him to assist him in getting provision which they said at present was scarce but in 3 or 4 months time the Rice would be gathered in and then he might have as much as he pleased and that in the mean time he might secure his Ship in some convenient place for fear of the Westerly winds which they said would be very violent at the latter end of this month and all the next as we found them We did not know the quality of these two persons till after they were gone else we should have fir'd some Guns
for the Europeans coming Eastward by the Cape of Good Hope in a course contrary to the Sun and us where-ever we met they were a full day before us in their Accounts So among the Indian Mahometans here their Friday the day of their Sultans going to their Mosques was Thursday with us though it were Friday also with those who came Eastward from Europe Yet at the Ladrone Islands we found the Spaniards of Guam keeping the same computation with our selves the reason of which I take to be that they settled that Colony by a course Westward from Spain the Spaniards going first to America and thence to the Ladrones and Philippines But how the reckoning was at Manila and the rest of the Spanish Colonies in the Philippine Islands I know not whether they keep it as they brought it or corrected it by the Accounts of the Natives and of the Portuguese Dutch and English coming the contrary way from Europe One great reason why Seamen ought to keep the difference of time as exact as they can is that they may be the more exact in their Lo ngitude For our Tables of the Suns declination being calculated for the Meridians of the places in which they were made differ about 12 minutes from those parts of the World that lie on their opposite Meridians in the months of March and September and in proportion to the Suns declination at other times of the year also And should they run farther as we did the difference would still increase upon them and be an occasion of great errours Yet even able Seamen in these Voyages are hardly made sensible of this tho so necessary to be observed for want of duly attending to the reason of it as it happened among those of our crew who after we had past 180 degrees began to decrease the difference of declination whereas they ought still to have increased it for it all the way increased upon us We had the Wind at N. N. E. fair clear Weather and a brisk gale We coasted to the West-ward on the South side of the Island Mindanao keeping within 4 or 5 leagues of the shore The Land from hence trends away W. by S. It is of a good heighth by the Sea and very Woody and in the Country we say high Hills The next day we were abrest off Chambongo a Town in this Island and 30 leagues from the River of Mindanao Here is said to be a good Harbour and a great settlement with plenty of Beef and Buffaloe It is reported that the Spaniards were formerly fortified here also There are 2 shoals lie off this place 2 or 3 leagues from the shore From hence the Land is more low and even yet there are some Hills in the Country About 6 leagues before we came to the West end of the Island Mindanao we fell in with a great many small low Islands or Keys and about 2 or 3 leagues to the Southward of these Keys there is a long Island stretching N. E. and S. W. about 12 leagues This Island is low by the Sea on the North side and has a ridge of Hills in the middle running from one end to the other Between this Island and the small Keys there is a good large Channel Among the Keys also there is good depth of Water and a violent Tide but on what point of the compass it flows I know not nor how much it riseth and falls The 17th day we anchored on the East side of all these Keys in 8 fathom water clean Sand. Here are plenty of green Turtle whose flesh is as sweet as any in the West Indies but they are very shy A little to the Westward of these Keys on the Island Mindanan we saw abundance of Coco-nut Trees Therefore we sent our Canoa ashore thinking to find Inhabitants but found none nor sign of any but great tracks of Hogs and great Cattle and close by the Sea there were the ruins of an old Fort. The Walls thereof were of a good heighth built with Stone and Lime and by the Wokrmanship seem'd to be Spanish From this place the Land trends W. N. W. and is of an indifferent heighth by the Sea It run on this point of the Compass 4 or 5 leagues and then the Land trends away N. N. W. 5 or 6 leagues farther making with many bluff points We weigh'd again the 14th day and went thro between the Keys but met such uncertain Tydes that we were forced to anchor again The 22d day we got about the Westermost point of all Mindanao and stood to the Northward plying under the shore and having the Wind at N. N. E. a fresh gale As we sailed along further we found the Land to trend N. N. E. On this part of the Island the Land is high by the Sea with full bluff points and very Woody There are some small sandy Bays which afford streams of fresh Water Here we met with two Proe's belonging to the 〈◊〉 one of the Mindanaian Nations before mentioned They came from Manila laden with Silks and Calicoes We kept on this Western part of the Island steering Northerly till we came abrest of some other of the Philippine Islands that lay to the Northward of us then steered away towards them but still keeping on the West side of them and we had the Winds at N. N. E. The 3d of February we anchored in a good bay on the West side of an Island in lat 9 d. 55 m. where we had 13 fathom Water good soft oaze This Island hath no name that we could find in any book but lieth on the West side of Island Sebo It is about 8 or 10 leagues long Mountainous and Woody At this place Captain Read who was the same Captain Swan had so much railed against in his Journal and was now made Captain in his room as Captain Teat was made Master and Mr. Henry More Quartermaster ordered the Carpenters to cut down our Quarter Deck to make the Ship snug and the fitter for sailing When that was done we heeled her scrubbed her bottom and tallowed it Then we fill'd all our Water for here is a delicate small run of Water The Land was pretty low in this Bay the Mould black and fat and the Trees of several kinds very thick and tall In some places we found plenty of Canes such as we use in England for Walking-canes These were short jointed not above two foot and a half or two foot ten inches the longest and most of them not above two foot They run along on the ground like a Vine or taking hold of the Trees they climb up to their very tops They are 15 or 20 fathom long and much of a bigness from the root till within 5 or 6 fathom of the end They are of a pale green colour cloathed over with a coat of a short thick hairy substance of a dun colour but it comes off by only drawing the Cane thro your hand We did cut many of them
we had a fresh Land Wind and steered away South passing between the 2 Shoals which we saw the day before These Shoals lye in lat 3 d. South and about 10 leagues from the Island Celebes Being past them the Wind died away and we lay decalmed till the afternoon Then we had a hard Tornado out of the South West and towards the evening we saw two or three Spouts the first I had seen since I came into the East Indies in the West Indies I had often met with them A Spout is a small ragged piece or part of a Cloud hanging down about a yard seemingly from the blackest part thereof Commonly it hangs down sloping from thence or sometimes appearing with a small bending or elbow in the middle I never saw any hang perpendicularly down It is small at the lower end seeming no bigger than ones Arm but 't is fuller towards the Cloud from whence it proceeds When the surface of the Sea begins to work you shall see the Water for about 100 paces in circumference foam and move gently round till the whirling motion increases and then it flies upward in a pillar about 100 paces in compass at the bottom but lessening gradually upwards to the smallness of the Spout it self there where it reacheth the lower end of the Spout through which the rising Sea-water seems to be conveyed into the Clouds This visibly appears by the Clouds increasing in bulk and blackness Then you shall presently see the Cloud drive along although before it seemed to be without any motion the Spout also keeping the same course with the Cloud and still sucking up the Water as it goes along and they make a Wind as they go Thus it continues for the space of half an hour more or less until the sucking is spent and then breaking off all the Water which was below the Spout or pendulous piece of Cloud falls down again into the Sea making a great noise with its fall and clashing motion in the Sea It is very dangerous for a Ship to be under a Spout when it breaks therefore we always endeavoured to shun it by keeping at a distance if possibly we can But for want of Wind to carry us away we are often in great fear and danger for it is usually calm when Spouts are at work except only just where they are Therefore men at Sea when they see a Spout coming and know not how to avoid it do sometimes fire shot out of their great Guns into it to give it air or vent that so it may break but I did never hear that it proved to be of any benefit And now being on this subject I think it not amiss to give you an account of an accident that happened to a Ship once on the Coast of Guinea some time in or about the year 1674. One Captain Records of London bound for the Coast of Guinea in a Ship of 300 Tuns and 16 Guns called the Blessing when he came into the lat 7 or 8 degrees North he saw several Spouts one of which came directly towards the Ship and he having no Wind to get out of the way of the Spout made ready to receive it by furling his sails It came on very swift and broke a little before it reached the Ship making a great noise and raising the Sea round it as if a great house or some such thing had been cast into the Sea The fury of the Wind still lasted and took the Ship on the Starboard bow with such violence that it snapt off the Boltsprit and Fore-mast both at once and blew the Ship all along ready to over-set it but the Ship did presently right again and the Wind whirling round took the Ship a second time with the like fury as before but on the contrary side and was again like to overset her the other way The Mizen-mast felt the fury of this second blast and was snapt short off as the Fore-mast and Bolt-sprit had been before The Main-mast and Main-top-mast received no damage for the fury of the Wind which was presently over did not reach them Three men were in the Fore-top when the Fore-mast broke and one on the Boltsprit and fell with them into the Sea but all of them were saved I had this relation from Mr. John Canby who was then Quarter-master and Steward of her one Ahraham Wise was chief Mate and Leonard Jefferies second Mate We are usually very much afraid of them yet this was the only damage that ever I heard done by them They seem terrible enough the rather because they come upon you while you lie becalm'd like a Log in the Sea and cannot get out of their way but though I have seen and been beset by them often yet the fright was always the greatest of the harm December the 1st we had a gentle gale at E. S. E. we steered South and at noon I was by Observation in lat 3 d. 34 m. South Then we saw the Island Bouton bearing South West and about 10 leagues distant We had very uncertain and unconstant Winds The Tornadoes came out of the S. W. which was against us and what other Winds we had were so saint that they did us little kinndess but we took the advantage of the smallest gale and got a little way every day The 4th day at noon I was by Observation in Lat. 4 d. 30 m. South The 5th day we got close by the N. W. end of the Island Bouton and in the evening it being fair weather we hoised out our Canoa and sent the Moskito men of whom we had 2 or 3 to strike Turtle for here are plenty of them but they being shy we chose to strike them in the night which is customary in the West Indies also For every time they come up to breathe which is once in 8 or 10 minutes they blow so hard that one may hear them at 30 or 40 yards distance by which means the Striker knows where they are and may more easily approach them than in the day for the Turtle sees bettter than he hears but on the contrary the Manatee's hearing is quickest In the morning they returned with a very large Turtle which they took near the shore and withal an Indian of the Island came aboard with them He spake the Malayan Language by which we did understand him He told us that 2 leagues farther to the Southward of us there was a good Harbour in which we might Anchor So having a fair Wind we got thither by noon This Harbour is in Lat. 4 d. 54 m. South lying on the East side of the Island Bouton Which Island lyes near the S. E. end of the Island Celebes distant from it about 3 or 4 leagues It is of a long form stretching S. W. and N. E. about 25 leagues long and 10 broad It is pretty high Land and appears pretty even and flat and very woody There is a large Town within a league of the anchoring
Mindanaian make for our own use which our Carpenters afterwards altered and made a delicate Boat fit for any service She was sharp at both ends but we saw'd off one and made that end flat fastening a Rudder to it and she rowed and sailed incomparably We stayed here but till the 12th day because it was a bad Harbour and foul ground and a bad time of the year too for the Tornadoes began to come in thick and strong When we went to weigh our Anchor it was hooked in a Rock and we broke our Cable and could not get our Anchor though we strove hard for it so we went away and left it there We had the Wind at N. N. E. and we steered towards the S. E. and fell in with 4 or 5 small Islands that lye in 5 d. 40 m. South lat and about 5 or 6 leagues from Callasusung Harbour These Islands appeared very green with Coco-nut Trees and we saw two or three Towns on them and heard a Drum all night for we were got in among shoals and could not get out again till the next day We know not whether the Drum were for fear of us or that they were making merry as 't is usual in these parts to do all the night singing and dancing till morning We found a pretty strong Tide here the flood setting to the Southward and the ebb to the Northward These shoals and many other that are not laid down in our Drafts lye on the South West side of the Islands where we heard the Drum about a league from them At last we past between the Islands and tried for a passage on the East side We met with divers shoals on this side also but found Channels to pass through so we steered away for the Island Timor intending to pass out by it We had the Winds commonly at W. S. W. and S. W. hard gales and rainy weather The 16th day we got clear of the shoals and steered S. by E. with the Wind at W. S. W. but veering every half hour sometimes at S. W. and then again at W. and sometimes at N. N. VV. bringing much Rain with Thunder and Lightening The 20th day we passed by the Island Omba which is a pretty high Island lying in lat 8 d. 20 m. and not above 5 or 6 leagues from the N. E. part of the Island Timor It is about 13 or 14 leagues long and five or six leagues wide About 7 or 8 leagues to the VVest of Omba is another pretty large Island but it had no name in our plats yet by the situation it should be that which in some Maps is called Pentare We saw on it abundance of smoaks by day and fires by night and a large Town on the North side of it nor far from the Sea but it was such bad weather that we did not go ashore Between Omba and Pentare and in the mid Channel there is a small low sandy Island with great shoals on either side but there is a very good Channel close by Pentare between that and the shoals about the small Isle We were three days beating off and on not having a wind for it was at South South West The 23d day in the evening having a small gale at North we got through keeping close by Pentare The Tide of ebb here set out to the Southward by which we were helped through for we had but little wind But this Tide which did us a kindness in setting us through had like to have ruined us afterwards for there are two small Islands lying at the South end of the Channel we came through and towards these Islands the Tide hurried us so swiftly that we very narrowly escaped being driven ashore for the little wind we had before at North dying away we had not one breath of wind when we came there neither was there an anchor ground But we got out our Oars and rowed yet all in vain for the Tide set wholly on one of the small Islands that we were forced with might and main strength to bear off the Ship by thrusting with our Oars against the shore which was a steep bank and by this means we presently drove away clear of Danger and having a little wind in the night at North we steered away S. S. W. In the morning again we had the wind at W. S. W. and steered S. and the wind coming to the W. N. W. we steered S. W. to get clear of the S. W. end of the Island Timor The 26th day we saw the N. W. point of Timor S. E. by E. distant about 8 leagues Timor is a long high mountainous Island stretching N. E. and S. VV. It is about 70 leagues long and 15 or 16 wide the middle of the Island is in Lat. about 9 d. South I have been informed that the Portuguese do trade to this Island but I know nothing of its produce besides Coire for making Cables of which there is mention Chap. X. The 27th day we saw two small Islands which lye near the S. W. end of Timor They bear from us S. E. We had very hard gales of wind and still with a great deal of Rain the wind at W. and W. S. W. Being now clear of all the Islands we stood off South intending to touch at New Holland a part of Terra Australis Incognita to see what that Country would afford us Indeed as the Winds were we could not now keep our intended course which was first Westerly and then Northerly without going to New Holland unless we had gone back again among the Islands but this was not a good time of the year to be among any Islands to the South of the Equator unless in a good Harbour The 31st day we were in lat 13 d. 20 m. still standing to the Southward the wind bearing commonly very hard at W. and we keeping upon it under 2 courses and our Mizen and sometimes a Main-top-sail rift About 10 a clock at night we tackt and stood to the Northward for fear of running on a shoal which is laid down in our Drafts in lat 13 d. 50 m. or thereabouts it bearing S. by W. from the East end of Timor and so the Island bore from us by our judgments and reckoning At 3 a clock we tackt again and stood S. by W. and S. S. W. In the morning assoon as it was day we saw the shoal right ahead it lies in 13 d. 50 m. by all our reckonings It is a small spit of hand just appearing above the waters edge with several Rocks about it 8 or 10 foot high above water It lies in a triangular form each side being about a league and half We stemm'd right with the middle of it and stood within half a mile of the Rocks and sounded but found no ground Then we went about and stood to the North 2 hours and then tackt and stood to the Southward again thinking to weather it but could not So
fewer still so that their chiefest dependance is upon what the Sea leaves in their Wares which be it much or little they gather up and march to the places of their abode There the old People that are not able to stir abroad by reason of their Age and the tender Infants wait their rerurn and what Providence has bestowed on them they presently broil on the Coals and eat it in common Sometimes they get as many Fish as makes them a plentiful Banquet and at other times they scarce get every one a taste but be it little or much that they get every one has his part as well the young and tender as the old and feeble who are not able to go abroad as the strong and lusty VVhen they have eaten they lye down till the next low water and then all that are able march out be it night or day rain or shine 't is all one they must attend the Wares or else they must fast For the Earth affords them no Food at all There is neither Herb Root Pulse nor any sort of Grain for them to eat that we saw nor any sort of Bird or Beast that they can catch having no Instruments wherewithal to do so I did not perceive that they did worship any thing These poor creatures have a sort of Weapon to defend their Ware or fight with their Enemies if they have any that will interfere with their poor Fishery They did at first endeavour with their Weapons to frighten us who lying ashore deterr'd them from one of their Fishing-places Some of them had Wooden Swords others had a sort of Lances The Sword is a piece of Wood shaped somewhat like a Cutlass The Lance is a long strait pole sharp at one end and hardened afterwards by heat I saw no Iron nor any other sort of Metal therefore it is probable they use Stone-Hatchets as some Indians in America do described in Chap. IV. How they get their Fire I know not but probably as Indians do out of Wood. I have seen the Indians of Bon-Airy do it and have my self tryed the experiment They take a flat piece of Wood that is pretty soft and make a small dent in one side of it then they take another hard round stick about the bigness of ones little finger and sharpening it at one end like a Pencil they put that sharp end in the hole or dent of the flat soft piece and then rubbing or twirling the hard piece between the palms of their hands they drill the soft piece till it smoaks and at last takes fire These people speak somewhat through the throat but we could not understand one word that they said We anchored as I said before January the 5th and seeing Men walking on the shore we presently sent a Canoa to get some acquaintance with them for we were in hopes to get some Provision among them But the Inhabitants seeing our Boat coming run away and hid themselves We searched afterwards 3 days in hopes to find their Houses but found none yet we saw many places where they had made Fires At last being out of hopes to find their Habitations we searched no farther but left a great many toys ashore in such places where we thought that they would come In all our search we found no water but old Wells on the sandy Bays At last we went over to the Islands and there we found a great many of the Natives I do believe there were 40 on one Island Men Women and Children The Men at our first coming ashore threatened us with their Lances and Swords but they were frighted by firing one Gun which we fired purposely to scare them The Island was so small that they could not hide themselves but they were much disordered at our Landing especially the Women and Children for we went directly to their Camp The luâ—…iest of the Women snatching up their Infants ran away howling and the little Children run after squeaking and bawling but the Men stood still Some of the VVomen and such People as could not go from us lay still by a Fire making a doleful noise as if we had been coming to devour them but when they saw we did not intend to harm them they were pretty quiet and the rest that fled from us at our first coming returned again This their place of dwelling was only a Fire with a few Boughs before it set up on that side the wind was of After we had been here a little while the Men began to be familiar and we cloathed some of them designing to have had some service of them for it for we found some Wells of Water here and intended to carry 2 or 3 Barrels of it aboard But it being somewhat troublesom to carry to the Canoas we thought to have made these men to have carried it for us and therefore we gave them some Cloaths to one an old pair of Breeches to another a ragged Shirt to a third a Jacket that was scarce worth owning which yet would have been very acceptable at some places where we had been and so we thought they might have been with these people We put them on them thinking that this finery would have brought them to work heartily for us and our Water being filled in small long Barrels about 6 Gallons in each which were made purposely to carry Warer in we brought these our new Servants to the Wells and put a Barrel on each of their Shoulders for them to carry to the Canoa But all the signs we could make were to no purpose for they stood like Statues without motion but grinn'd like so many Monkeys staring one upon another For these poor Creatures seem not accustomed to carry burthens and I believe that one of our Ship-boys of 10 years old would carry as much as one of them So we were forced to carry our Water our selves and they very fairly put the Cloaths off again and laid them down as if Cloaths were only to work in I did not perceive that they had any great liking to them at first neither did they seem to admire any thing that we had At another time our Canoa being among these Islands seeking for game espy'd a drove of these men swimming from one Island to another for they have no Boats Canoas or Bark-logs They took up four of them and brought them aboard two of them were middle aged the other two were young men about 18 or 20 year old To these we gave boiled Rice and with it Turtle and Manatee boiled They did greedily devour what we gave them but took no notice of the Ship or any thing in it and when they were set on Land again they ran away as fast as they could At our first coming before we were acquainted with them or they with us a Company of them who liv'd on the Main came just against our Ship and standing on a pretty high Bank threatned us with their Swords and Lances by shaking them at
scarce kill a man purposely to eat him I know not what barbarous Customs may formerly have been in the world and to sacrifice their Enemies to their Gods is a thing hath been much talkt of with relation to the Savages of America I am a stranger to that also if it be or have been customary in any Nation there and yet if they sacrifice their Enemies it is not necessary they should eat them too After all I will not be peremptory in the Negative but I speak as to the compass of my own knowledge and know some of these Cannibal stories to be false and many of them have been disproved since I first went to the West Indies At that time how barbarous were the poor Florida Indians accounted which now we find to be civil enough What strange stories have we heard of the Indians whose Islands where called the Isles of Cannibals Yet we find that they do Trade very civilly with the French and Spaniards and have done so with us I do own that they have formerly endeavoured to destroy our Plantations at Barbadoes and have since hindred us from settling the Island Santa Lucia by destroying 2 or 3 Colonies successively of those that were settled there and even the Island Tabago has been often annoyed and ravaged by them when settled by the Dutch and still lies waste though a delicate fruitful Island as being too near the Caribbees on the Continent who visit it every year But this was to preserve their own right by endeavouring to keep out any that would settle themselves on those Islands where they had planted themselves yet even these people would not hurt a single person as I have been told by some that have been Prisoners among them I could instance also in the Indians of Bocca Toro and Bocca Drago and many other places where they do live as the Spaniards call it wild and salvage yet there they have been familiar with Privateers but by abuses have withdrawn their friendship again As for these Nicobar people I found them affable enough and therefore I did not fear them but I did not much care whether I had gotten any more Company or no. But however I was very well satisfied and the rather because we were now men enough to row our selves over to the Island Sumatra and accordingly we presently consulted how to purchase a Canoa of the Natives It was a fine clear Moon-light Night in which we were left ashore Therefore we walked on the sandy Bay to watch when the Ship would weigh and be gone not thinking our selves secure in our new gotten liberty till then About 11 or 12 a clock we saw her under sail and then we returned to our Chamber and so to sleep This was the 6th of May. The next morning betimes our Landlord with 4 or 5 of his friends came to see his new guests and was somewhat surprized to see so many of us for he knew of no more but my self Yet he seemed to be very well pleased and entertained us with a large Calabash of Toddy which he brought with him Before he went away again for wheresoever we came they left their Houses to us but whether out of fear or superstition I know not we bought a Canoa of him for an Ax and we did presently put our Chests and Cloaths in it designing to go to the South end of the Island and lye there till the Monsoon shifted which we expected every day When our things were stowed away we with the Achinese entered with joy into our new Frigot and launched off from the shore We were no sooner off but our Canoa overset bottom upwards We preserved our lives well enough by swimming and dragg'd also our Chests and Cloaths ashore but all our things were wet I had nothing of value but my Journal and some Drafts of Land of my own taking which I much prized and which I had hitherto carefully preserved Mr. Hall had also such another Cargo of Books and Drafts which were now like to perish But we presently opened our Chests and took out our Books which with much ado we did afterwards dry but some of our Drafts that lay loose in our Chests were spoiled We lay here afterwards 3 days making great fires to dry our Books The Achinese in the mean time fixt our Canoa with Outlagers on each side and they also cut a good Mast for her and made a substantial sail with Mats The Canoa being now very well fixt and our Books and Cloaths dry we launched out the second time and rowed towards the East side of the Island leaving many Islands to the North of us The Indians of the Island accompanied us with 8 or 10 Canoas against our desire for we thought that these men would make Provision dearer at that side of the Island we were going to by giving an account what rates we gave for it at the place from whence we came which was owing to the Ships being there for the Ships crew were not so thrifty in bargaining as they seldom are as single persons or a few men might be apt to be who would keep to one bargain Therefore to hinder them from going with us Mr. Hall scared one Canoas crew by firing a shot over them They all leapt over board and cried out but seeing us row away they got into their Canoa again and came after us The firing of that Gun made all the Inhabitants of the Island to be our Enemies For presently after this we put ashore at a Bay where were four Houses and a great many Canoas but they all went away and came near us no more for several days We had then a great Loaf of Melory which was our constant food and if we had a mind to Coco-nuts or Toddy our Malayans of Achin would climb the Trees and fetch as many Nuts as we would have and a good pot of Toddy every morning Thus we lived till our Melory was almost spent being still in hopes that the Natives would come to us and sell it as they had formerly done But they came not to us nay they opposed us where ever we came and often shaking their Lances at us made all the shew of hatred that they could invent At last when we saw that they stood in opposition to us we resolved to use force to get some of their food if we could not get it other ways With this resolution we went in our Canoa to a small Bay on the North part of the Island because it was smooth water there and good landing but on the other side the wind being yet on that quarter we could not land without jeopardy of oversetting our Canoa and wetting our Arms and then we must have lain at the mercy of our Enemies who stood 2 or 300 men in every Bay where they saw us coming to keep us off When we set out we rowed directly to the North end and presently were followed by 7 or 8 of their Canoas
So he gave over that design and some English Ships coming into Achin Road he was not afraid of the Siamers who lay there After this he again invited me to his House at Achin and treated me always with Wine and good Cheer and still importuned me to go with him to Persia but I being very weak and fearing the Westerly Winds would create a great deal of trouble did not give him a positive answer especially because I thought I might get a better Voyage in the English Ships newly arrived or some others now expected here It was this Captain Bowry who sent the Letter from Borneo directed to the Chief of the English Factory at Mindanao of which mention is made in Chapter the XIII A short time after this Captain Welden arrived here from Fort St. George in a Ship called the Curtana bound to Tonqueen This being a more agreeable Voyage than to Persia at this time of the year besides that the Ship was better accommodated especially with a Surgeon and I being still sick I therefore chose rather to serve Captain Welden than Captain Bowry But to go on with a particular account of that Expedition were to carry my Reader back again whom having brought thus far towards England in my Circum-Navigation of the Globe I shall not now weary him with new Rambles nor so much swell this Volume as I must to describe the Tour I made in those remote parts of the East Indies from and to Sumatra So that my Voyage to Tonqueen at this time as also another to Malacca afterwards with my Observations in them and the Descriptions of those and the Neighbouring Countries as well as the Description of the Island Sumatra it self and therein the Kingdom and City of Aehin Bencouli c. I shall refer to another place where I may give a particular relation of them In short it may suffice that I set out to Tonqueen with Captain Welden about July 1688 and returned to Achin in the April following I staid here till the latter end of September 1689. and making a short Voyage to Malacca came thither again about Christmas Soon after that I went to Fort St. George and staying there about 5 months I return'd once more to Sumatra not to Achin but Bencouli an English Factory on the West Coast of which I was Gunner about 5 months more So that having brought my Reader to Sumatra without carrying him back I shall bring him on next way from thence to England And of all that occurr'd between my first setting out from this Island in 1688 and my final departure from it at the beginning of the year 1691 I shall only take notice at present of two passages which I think I ought not to omit The first is that at my Return from Malacca a little before Christmas 1689 I found at Achin one Mr. Morgan who was one of our Ships Crew that left me ashore at Nicobar now Mate of a Danish Ship of Trangambar which is a Town on the Coast of Coromandel near Cape Comorin belonging to the Danes And receiving an account of our Crew from him and others I thought it might not be amiss to gratifie the Readers Curiosity therewith who would probably be desirous to know the success of those Ramblers in their new intended Expedition towards the Red Sea and withal I thought it might not be unlikely that these Papers may fall into the hands of some of our London Merchants who were concern'd in fitting out that Ship which I said formerly was called the Cygnet of London sent on a Trading Voyage into the South Seas under the Command of Captain Swan and that they might be willing to have a particular Information of the fate of their Ship And by the way even before this meeting with Mr. Morgan while I was at Tonqueen January 1689 I met with an English Ship in the River of Tonqueen called the Rainbow of London Captain Poole Commander by whose Mate Mr. Barlow who was returning in that Ship to England I sent a Pacquet which he undertook to deliver to the Merchants Owners of the Cygnet some of which he said he knew wherein I gave a particular account of all the Course and Transactions of their Ship from the time of my first meeting it in the South Seas and going aboard it there to its leaving me ashore at Nicobar But I never could hear that either that or other Letters which I sent at the same time were received To proceed therefore with Morgan's Relation He told me that when they in the Cygnet went away from Nicobar in pursuit of their intended Voyage to Persia they directed their course towards Ceylon But not being able to weather it the Westerly Monsoon bearing hard against them they were obliged to seek refreshment on the Coast of Coromandel Here this mad fickle crew were upon new projects again Their designs meeting with such delays and obstructions they many of them grew weary of it and about half of them went ashore Of this number Mr. Morgan who told me this and Mr. Herman Coppinger the Surgeon went to the Danes at Trangambar who kindly received them There they lived very well and Mr. Morgan was employed as a Mate in a Ship of theirs at this time to Achin and Captain Knox tells me that he since Commanded the Curtana the Ship that I went in to Tonqueen which Captain Welden having sold to the Mogul's Subjects they employed Mr. Morgan as Captain to trade in her for them and it is an usual thing for the trading Indians to hire Europeans to go Officers on board their Ships especially Captains and Gunners About two or three more of these that were set ashore went to Fort St. George but the main body of them were for going into the Mogul's Service Our Seamen are apt to have great notions of I know not what profit and advantages to be had in serving the Mogul nor do they want for fine storiesto encourage one another to it It was what these men had long been thinking and talking of as a fine thing but now they went upon it in good earnest The place where they went ashore was at a Town of the Moors which name our Seamen give to all the Subjects of the great Mogul but especially his Mahometan Subjects calling the Idolaters Gentous or Rashbouts At this Moors Town they got a Peun to be their Guide to the Mogul's nearest Camp for he hath always several Armies in his vast Empire These Peuns are some of the Gentous or Rashbouts who in all places along the Coast especially in Sea-port Towns make it their business to hire themselves to wait upon strangers be they Merchants Seamen or what they will To qualify them for such attendance they learn the European Languages English Dutch French Portuguese c. according as they have any of the Factories of these Nations in their Neighbourhood or are visited by their Ships No sooner doth any such Ship come to an Anchor and
Esperance or of Good Hope finding that they might now proceed Eastward There is good Sounding off this Cape 50 or 60 leagues at Sea to the Southward and therefore our English Seamen standing over as they usually do from the Coast of Brazil content themselves with their Soundings concluding thereby that they are abrest of the Cape they often pass by without seeing it and begin to shape their course Northward They have several other signs whereby to know when they are near it as by the Sea-Fowl they meet at Sea especially the Algatrosses a very large long-winged Bird and the Mangovolucres a smaller Fowl But the greatest dependance of our English Seamen now is upon their observing the variation of the Compass which is very carefully minded when they come near the Cape by taking the Suns Amplitude mornings and evening This they are so exact in that by the help of the Azimuth Compass an Instrument more peculiar to the Seamen of our Nations they know when they are abrest of the Cape or are either to the East or the West of it and for that reason though they should be to Southward of all the Soundings or fathomable ground they can shape their course right without being obliged to make the Land But the Dutch on the contrary having settled themselves on this Promontory do always touch here in their East India Voyages both going and coming The most remarkable Land at Sea is a high Mountain steep to the Sea with a flat even top which is called the Table Land On the West side of the Cape a little to the Northward of it there is a spacious Harbour with a low flat Island lying off it which you may leave on either hand and pass in or out securely at either end Ships that anchor here ride near the Main Land leaving the Island at a farther distance without them The Land by the Sea against the Harbour is low but backt with high Mountains a little way in to the Southward of it The Soil of this Country is of a brown colour not deep yet indifferently productive of Grass Herbs and Trees The Grass is short like that which grows on our Wiltshire or Dorsetshire Downs The Trees hereabouts are but small and few the Country also farther from the Sea does not much abound in Trees as I have been informed The Mould or Soyl also is much like this near the Harbour which though it cannot be said to be very fat or rich Land yet it is very fit for cultivation and yields good Crops to the industrious Husbandman and the Country is pretty well settled with Farms Dutch Families and French Refugees for 20 or 30 leagues up the Country but there are but few Farms near the Harbour Here grows plenty of Wheat Barly Pease c. Here are also Fruits of many kinds as Apples Pears Quinces and the largest Pomgranats that I did ever see The chief Fruits are Grapes These thrive very well and the Country is of late years so well stockt with Vineyards that they make abundance of Wine of which they have enough and to spare and do sell great quantities to Ships that touch here This Wine is like a French High Country White Wine but of a pale yellowish colour it is sweet very pleasant and strong The tame Animals of this Country are Sheep Goats Hogs Cows Horses c. The Sheep are very large and fat for they thrive very well here This being a dry Country and the short pasturage very agreeable to these Creatures but it is not so proper for great Cattle neither is the Beef in its kind so sweet as the Mutton Of wild Beasts 't is said here are several sorts but I saw none However it is very likely there are some wild Beasts that prey on the Sheep because they are commonly brought into the Houses in the night and penn'd up There is a very beautiful sort of wild Al 's in this Country whose body is curiously striped with equal lists of white and black the stripes coming from the ridge of his Back and ending under the Belly which is white These stripes are two or three Fingers broad running parallel with each other and curiously intermixt one white and one black over from the Shoulder to the Rump I saw two of the Skins of these Beasts dried and preserved to be sent to Halland as a rarity They seemed big enough to inclose the Body of a Beast as big as a large Colt of a twelvemonth old Here are a great many Ducks Dunghil Fowls c. and Ostriges are plentifully found in the dry Mountains and Plains I eat of their Eggs here and those of whom I bought them told me that these creatures lay their Eggs in the Sand or at least on dry ground and so leave them to be hatch'd by the Sun The meat of one of their Eggs will suffice two men very well The Inhabitants do preserve the Eggs that they find to sell to strangers They were pretty scarce when I was here it being the beginning of their Winter whereas I was told they lay their Eggs about Christmas which is their Summer The Sea hereabouts affords plenty of Fish of divers sorts especially a small sort of Fish not so big as a Herring whereof they have such great plenty that they pickle great quantities yearly and send them to Europe Seales are also in great numbers about the Cape which as I have still observed is a good sign of the plentifulness of Fish which is their food The Dutch have a strong Fort by the Sea side against the Harbour where the Governour lives At about 2 or 300 paces distance from thence on the West side of the Fort there is a small Dutch Town in which I told about 50 or 60 Houses low but well built with Stone-walls there being plenty of Stone drawn out of a Quarry close by On the backside of the Town as you go towards the Mountains the Dutch East-India Company have a large House and a stately Garden walled in with a high Stone Wall This Garden is full of divers sorts of Herbs Flowers Roots and Fruits with curious spacious Gravel-walks and Arbors and is watered with a Brook that descends out of the Mountains which being cut into many channels is conveyed into all parts of the Garden The Hedges which make the Walks are very thick and 9 or 10 foot high They are kept exceeding neat and even by continual pruning There are lower Hedges within these again which serve to separate the Fruit-trees from each other but without shading them and they keep each sort of Fruit by themselves as Apples Pears abundance of Quinces Pomgranats c. These all prosper very well and bear good Fruit especially the Pomgranat The Roots and Garden-herbs have also their distinct places hedged in apart by themselves and all in such order that it is exceeding pleasant and beautiful There are a great number of Negro Slaves brought from other parts of the
assistance of the Doctors of the Fort a fine Air and good Kitchin and Cellar Physick soon recovered their healths Those that subscribed to be at all calls and assisted to bring in the Ship received Captain Heath's Bounty by which they furnished themselves with Liquor for their homeward Voyage But we were now so few that we could not sail the Ship therefore Captain Heath desired the Governour to spare him some men and as I was informed had a promise to be supplied out of the homeward bound Dutch East India Ships that were now expected every day and we waited for them In the mean time in came the James and Mary and the Josiah of London bound home Out of these we thought to have been furnished with men but they had only enough for themselves therefore we waited yet longer for the Dutch Fleet which at last arrived but we could get no men from them Captain Heath was therefore forced to get men by stealth such as he could pick up whether Soldiers or Seamen The Dutch knew our want of men therefore near 40 of them those that had a design to return to Europe came privately and offered themselves and waited in the night at places appointed where our Boats went and fetched 3 or 4 aboard at a time and hid them especially when any Dutch Boat came aboard our Ship Here at the Cape I met my friend Daniel Wallis the same who leapt into the Sea and swam at Pulo Condore After several Traverses to Madagascar Don Mascarin Ponticherri Pegu Cunnimere Maderas and the River of Hugli he was now got hither in a homeward bound Dutch Ship I soon perswaded him to come over to us and found means to get him aboard our Ship About the 23d of May we sailed from the Cape in the company of the James and Mary and the Josiah directing our Course towards the Island Santa Hellena We met nothing of remark in this Voyage except a great swelling Sea out of the S. W. which taking us on the broad side made us rowl sufficiently Such of our Water-Casks as were between Decks running from side to side were in a short time all staved and the Deck well washed with the fresh water The Shot tumbled out the Lockers and Garlands and rung a lowd peal rumbling from side to side every rowl that the Ship made neither was it an easie matter to reduce them again within bounds The Guns being carefully look'd after and lash'd fast never budgâ—d but the Tackles or Pulleys and Lashings made great Musick too The sudden and violent motion of the Ship made us fearful lest some of the Guns should have broken loose which must have been very detrimental to the Ships sides The Masts were also in great danger to be rowl'd by the board but no harm hapned to any of us besides the loss of 3 or 4 Butts of Water and a Barrel or 2 of good Cape Wine which was staved in the great Cabbin This great Tumbling Sea took us shortly after we came from the Cape The violence of it lasted but one Night yet we had a continual swelling came out of the S. W. almost during all the passage to Santa Hellena which was an eminent token that the S. W. Winds were now violent in the higher latitudes towards the South Pole for this was the time of the year for those Winds Notwithstanding this boisterous Sea coming thus obliquely upon us we had fine clear weather and a moderate gale at S. E. or between that and the East till we came to the Island Santa Hellena where we arrived the 20th day of June There we found the Princess Ann at an Anchor waiting for us The Island Santa Hellena lies in about 16 Degrees South lat The Air is commonly serene and clear except in the months that yield Rain yet we had one or two very rainy days even while we were here Here are moist seasons to plant and sow and the weather is temperate enough as to heat tho so near the Equator and very healthy The Island is but small not above nine or ten leagues in length and stands 3 or 400 leagues from the main Land It is bounded against the Sea with steep Rocks so that there is no landing but at 2 or 3 places The Land is high and Mountainous and seems to be very dry and poor yet there are fine Valleys proper for cultivation The Mountains appear bare only in some places you may see a few low Shrubs but the Valleys afford some Trees fit for building as I was informed This Island is said to have been first discover'd and settled by the Portuguese who stockt it with Goats and Hogs But it being afterwards deserted by them it lay waste till the Dutch finding it convenient to relieve their East India Ships settled it again but they afterwards relinquished it for a more convenient place I mean the Cape of Good Hope Then the English East India Company settled their Servants there and began to Fortify it but they being yet weak the Dutch about the year 1672 came thither and re-took it and kept it in their possession This news being reported in England Captain Monday was sent to re-take it who by the advice and conduct of one that had formerly lived there landed a Party of Armed Men in the night in a small Cove unknown to the Dutch then in Garrison and climbing the Rocks got up into the Island and so came in the morning to the Hills hanging over the Fort which stands by the Sea in a small Valley From thence firing into the Fort they soon made them surrender There were at this time two or three Dutch East India Ships either at Anchor or coming thither when our Ships were there These when they saw that the English were Masters of the Island again made sail to be gone but being chaced by the English Frigots 2 of them became rich prizes to Captain Monday and his men The Island hath continued ever since in the hands of the English East-India Company and hath been greatly strengthned both with Men and Guns so that at this day it is secure enough from the invasion of any Enemy For the common Landing-place is a small Bay like a Half-Moon scarce 500 paces wide between the two points Close by the Sea side are good Guns planted at equal distances lying along from one end of the Bay to the other besides a small Fort a little further in from the Sea near the midst of the Bay All which makes this Bay so strong that it is impossible to force it The small Cove where Captain Monday landed his men when he took the Island from the Dutch is scarce fit for a Boat to land at and yet that is now also fortified There is a small English Town within the great Bay standing in a little Valley between two high steep Mountains There may be about 20 or 30 small Houses whose Walls are built with rough Stones The inside
d. North. It is much frequented by the Cochinchinese whose Country begins hereabouts bordering on the Kingdom of Champa They are most Fishermen that come hither and their chief business is to make Oyl of Porpusses for these Fish are found in great plenty here at some seasons of the year and then the Cochinchinese resort hither to take them The people that we found on Pulo Condore mentioned in the 14th Chapter of my Voyage round the World page 395 were of these Cochinchinese The Turtle also which they catch is chiefly in order to make Oyl of their fat and there is great store of Turtle on all this Coast. We coasted yet farther on this shore till we came to the Islands of Champello These may seem to have some affinity to Champa by the sound of the word which one would take to be a Portuguese diminutive of Champa yet they lye on the Cochinchina Coast and belong to it tho uninhabited They are 4 or 5 in number and lye 4 or 5 leagues from the shore They are called Champello de la Mar to distinguish them from others lying farther down in the Bay of Tonquin called Champello de Terra These last lye in about 16 d. 45 m. North but the Islands of Champello de la Mar lye in about 13 d. 45 m. N. Over against these last Islands on the Main there is a large navigable River empties itself into the Sea The City of Quinam stands on the banks of this River and is said to be the principal City of the Kingdom of Cochinchina As to its distance from the Sea its bigness strength riches c. I am yet in the dark only I have been inform'd that if a Ship is cast away on this Kingdom the Seamen that escape drowning and get ashore become Slaves to the King Captain John Tiler was thus served and despaired of ever getting his freedom but after a considerable stay there he was taken notice of by the King and upon promise of returning thither again to trade there he was sent away I sailed in a Vessel of his after this but I never found him inclined to Trade thither any more However notwithstanding this their severity to Shipwrackt people I have been informed by Captain Tiler and others that they have a desire to Trade tho' they are yet destitute of the means to attain it This desire of Trade they seem to have taken up from some Chinese fugitives who fled from the Tartars when they conquered their Country and being kindly received by these Cochinchinese and having among them many Artificers they instructed their kind protectors in many useful Arts of which they were wholly ignorant before 'T is probable this their custom of seizing Shipwrackt Seamen may soon vanish by the coming in of Trade which is already advancing among them for the Merchants of China do now drive some small traffick among these people and fetch thence some small quantities of Pepper Lignum Aloes and Aguala Wood which is much esteemed for its rare scent and is very valuable in other places of India They also fetch Betle from hence it growing here in great plenty I have had no account of any Shipping the Cochinchinese have of their own but I have met with them in their open Boats of 4 5 or 6 Tun imploying themselves chiefly in getting Pitch and Tar from Pulo Condore in fishing about the Coast and Island to get Oyl and in fetching Aguala Wood from the Bay of Siam which whether it grows there or no I can't tell but I have heard that 't is only drift wood cast ashore by the Sea The seizing Shipwrackt-men has been also a custom at Pegu but whether still continued I know not They lookt on such as men preserved by God purposely for them to feed and maintain and therefore the King ordered them to be maintained by his Subjects neither was any work required of them but they had liberty to beg By this means they got food and rayment from the Inhabitauts who were zealously charitable to them But to proceed we kept a little without all the Islands and coasting 5 or 6 leagues further we stood right over towards the N. E. Cod of the Bay of Tonquin The Bay of Tonquin has its entrance between the S. E. point of Champa on the West side which lies in the lat of about 12 d. North and the Island of Aynam near the S. W. part of China on the East side The Island of Aynam is in about 19 d. North. It is a pretty considerable Island well peopled with Chinese Inhabitants They have Ships of their own and drive a great trade by Sea I have seen many of their Ships some of 100 Tun with Outlagers on both sides and others like ordinary Jonks without Outlagers but am wholly ignorant of their Trade any farther than what I have mentioned of their having Pearl Oysters there in the 7th Chapter of my Voyage round the World page 174. Near the Cod of the Bay of Tonquin there are abundance of small Islands of which I shall speak more hereafter The mouth of the Bay seems to be barr'd up with the great shole of Pracel which lies stretched at length before it yet leaving two wide Channels one at each end so that Ships may pass in or out either way And therefore even the Ships that are bound from the Streights of Malacca or Siam to China may as well pass to and fro within the shole at without The Bay of Tonquin is about 30 leagues wide in the broadest place There is good sounding and anchoring all over it and in the middle where it is deepest there is about 46 fathom water There you have black Oaz and dark Peppery Sand but on the West side there is reddish Oazy Sand. Beside the other Islands before-mentioned there are others of less note on the Cochinchina Coast but none of them all above 4 or 5 miles from the shore In the bottom of the Bay also there are some small Islands close by the Tonquin shore 2 of these are of especial note not for their bigness but for Sea-marks for the 2 principal Rivers or mouth rather of the chief River of Tonquin One of these Rivers or Mouths is call'd Rokko It discharges it self into the Sea near the N. W. corner of the Bay and the mouth of it is in about 20 d. 6m N. This River or branch I was not at but have been informed that it has not above 12 foot water at the entrance but that its bottom is soft Oaz and therefore very convenient for small Vessels and it is the way that all the Chinese and Siamers do use About a League to the Westward of this Rivers mouth there is a small pretty high Island called Fishers Island It lyeth about 2 mile from the shore and it hath good anchoring about it in 17 or 18 foot water and therefore it is not only a Sea-mark for the River but a secure place to ride in
very shy since the English and Dutch settled here for now the Natives as well as they shoot them but before their arrival the Tonquinese took them only with Nets neither is this custom left off yet The Net that is us'd for this Game is made square and either bigger or less according as they have occasion They fix two Poles about 10 or 11 foot high upright in the ground near the Pond where the Ducks haunt and the Net has a head-cord which is stretched out streight made from the top of one Pole to the other from whence the lower part of the Net hangs down loose towards the ground and when in the evening they fly towards the Pond many of them strike against the Net and are there entangled There is a kind of Locust in Tonquin in great abundance This Creature is about the bigness of the top of a mans Finger and as long as the first joynt It breeds in the earth especially in the banks of Rivers and Ditches in the low Country In the months of January and February which is the season of taking them being then only seen this creature first comes out of the Earth in huge swarms It is then of a whitish colour and having 2 small wings like the wings of a Bee at its first coming out of the Earth it takes its flight but for want of strength or use falls down again in a short time Such as strive to fly over the River do commonly fall down into the water and are drowned or become a prey to the Fish of the River or are carried out into the Sea to be devoured there but the Natives in these months watch the Rivers and take up thence multitudes skimming them from off the Water with little Nets They eat them fresh broiled on the Coals or pickle them to keep They are plump and fat and are much esteemed both by rich and poor as good wholesome food either fresh or pickled The Rivers and Ponds are stored with divers sorts of excellent Fish besides abundance of Frogs which they Angle for being highly esteemed by the Tonquinese The Sea too contributes much towards the support of the poor People by yielding plentiful stores of Fish that swarm on this Coast in their seasons and which are commonly preferr'd before the River Fish Of these here are divers sorts besides Sea Turtle which frequently come ashore on the Sandy Bays in their seasons to lay their Eggs. Here are also both Land crabs and Sea-crabs good store and other Shell-fish viz. Craw-fish Shrimps and Prawns Here is one sort of small Fish much like an Anchovy both in shape and size which is very good pickled There are other sorts of small Fish which I know not the names of One sort of them comes in great shoals near the shore and these the Fishermen with their Nets take so plentifully as to load their Boats with them Among these they generally take a great many Shrimps in their nets which they carry ashore mixt together as they take them and make Balachaun with them Balachaun is a composition of a strong savor yet a very delightsom dish to the Natives of this Country To make it they throw the Mixture of Shrimps and small Fish into a sort of weak pickle made with Salt and Water and put into a tight earthen Vessel or Jar. The Pickle being thus weak it keeps not the Fish firm and hard neither is it probably so designed for the Fish are never gutted Therefore in a short time they turn all to a mash in the Vessel and when they have lain thus a good while so that the Fish is reduced to a pap they then draw off the liquor into fresh Jars and preserve it for use The masht Fish that remains behind is called Balachaun and the liquor pour'd off is call'd Nuke-Mum The poor people eat the Balachaun with their Rice 'T is rank scented yet the taste is not altogether unpleasant but rather savory after one is a little used to it The Nuke-Mum is of a paie brown colour inclining to grey and pretty clear It is also very savory and used as a good sauce for Fowls not only by the Natives but also by many Europeans who esteem it equal with Soy I have been told that Soy is made partly with a Fishy composition and it seems most likely by the taste tho a Gentleman of my acquaintance who was very intimate with one that sailed often from Tonquin to Japan from whence the true Soy comes told me that it was made only with Wheat and a sort of Beans mixt with Water and Salt Their way of Fishing differs little from ours in the Rivers they take some of their Fish with Hook and Line others with Nets of several sorts At the mouths of the Rivers they set nets against the Stream or Tide These have two long wings opening on each side the mouth of the Net to guide the Fish into it where passing through a narrow neck they are caught in a bag at the farther end Where the Rivers mouth is so wide that the wings of the Net will not reach from side to side as at Batsha particularly it will not there they supply that defect with long slender Canes which they stick upright near one another in a row for on both sides of the River when the tide runs strong which is the time that the Fish are moving the limber Canes make such a ratling by striking against each other that thereby the Fish are scared from thence towards the Mouth of the Net in the middle of the Stream Farther up the River they have Nets made square like a great sheet This sort hath two long Poles laid across each other At this crossing of the Poles a long Rope is fastned and the Net hangs down in a bag by its corners from them To manage it there is a substantial post set upright and firm in the River and the top of it may be 8 or 10 foot above the water On the top of this post there is a Mortice made to receive a long pole that lies athwart like the Beam of a Ballance to the heavier end of which they tie the Rope which holds the Net and to the other end another Rope to pull up the Net on occasion The Fishermen sink it with Stones to the Rivers bottom and when they see any Fish come over it one suddenly pulls the Rope at the opposite end of the beam and heaves Net and Fish out of the Water They take a great deal of Fish this way and sometimes they use Drag-Nets which go quite across and sweep the River In the stagnant Ponds such as the Mandarins have commonly about their Houses they go in and trouble the water with their feet till 't is all muddy and thick and as the Fish rise to the surface they take what they please with small Nets fastned to a hoop at the end of a pole For all these sorts of provision there
whom I came acquainted with some time after this at Fort St. George and I had of him the following account the particulars of which I have also had confirmed by the Seamen who were with them These two Captains with many more English men had been for some time in the service of the King of Siam and each of them commanded a stout Frigot of his mann'd chiefly with English and some Portuguese born at Siam These the King of Siam sent against some Pyrates who made spoyl of his Subjects Trading in these Seas and nested themselves in an Island up the River of Cambodia Captain Howel told me that they found this River very large especially at its mouth that 't is deep and navigable for very great Vessels 60 or 70 Leagues up and that its depth and wideness extended much further up for ought he knew but so far they went up at this time with their Ships The Course of the River is generally from North to South and they found the Land low on each side with many large creeks and branches and in some places considerable Islands They bended their Course up that branch which seem'd most considerable having the Tyde of flood with them and the River commonly so wide as to give them room to turn or make Angles where the bending of the River was such as to receive a contrary East or South East Sea Wind. These reaches or bendings of the River East and West were very rare at least so as to make their Course be against the Sea wind which commonly blew in their Stern and fo fresh that with it they could stem the Tyde of Ebb. But in the night when the Land winds came they anchored and lay still till about 10 or 11 a Clock the next day at which time the Sea-breeze usually sprang up again and enabled them to continue their Course till they came to the Island where the Pirats inhabited They presently began to fire at them and landing their men routed them and burned their Houses and Fortifications and taking many prisoners returned again These Piratical People were by Nation Chinese who when the Tartars conquered their Country fled from thence in their own Ships as choosing rather to live any where free than to submit to the Tartars These it seems in their flight bent their Course towards this Country and finding the River of Cambodia open before them they made bold to enter and settle on the Island before mentioned There they built a Town and fenced it round about with a kind of Wood-pile or Wall of great Timber Trees laid along of the thickness of 3 or 4 of these Trees and of about as many in heighth They were provided with all sorts of Planters instruments and the Land hereabouts was excellent good as our English men told me so that 't is like they might have lived here happily enough had their inclinations led them to a quiet Life but they brought Arms along with them and chose to use them rather than their Instruments of Husbandry and they lived therefore mostly by rapin pillaging their Neighbours who were more addicted to traffick than fighting But the King of Siams Subjects having been long harrassed by them at Sea he first sent some Forces by Land to drive them out of their Fort till not succeeding that way he entirely Routed them by sending these 2 Ships up the River The 2 English Captains having thus effected their business returned out of the River with many Prisoners but the South West Monsoon being already set in they could not presently return to Siam and therefore went to Macao in China as well to wait for the N. East Monsoon as to ingratiate themselves with the Tartars who they thought would be pleased with the Conquest which they had made over these Chinese Pyrates They were well entertained there by the Tartarian Governor and gave him their Prisoners and upon the shifting of the Monsoon they returned to Siam There they were received with great applause Nor was this the first successful expedition the English have made in the K. of Siams service They once saved the Country by suppressing an insurrection made by the Buggasses The Buggasses are a sort of warlike Trading Malayans and mercenary Soldiers of India I know not well whence they come unless from Macasser in the Island Celebes Many of them had been entertained at Siam in the Kings service but at last being disgusted at some ill usuage they stood up in their own defence Some hundreds of them got together all well armed and these struck a dread into the hearts of the Siamites none of whom were able to stand before them till Constant Falcon the chief Minister Commanded the English that were then in the Kings service to march against them which they did with success tho with some considerable loss For these services the King gave every year to each of them a great Silk Coat on which were just 13 Buttons Those of the chief Commanders were of Massy Gold and those of the inferiour Officers were of Silver Plate This Expedition against the Chinese Pirats was about the year 1687 the other broyl with the Buggasses was as I take it some time before But to proceed with our Voyage we still kept our way Southward and in company together till we came about Pulo Condore but then Captain Pool parted from us standing more directly South for the Streights of Sundy and we steer'd more to the Westward to go thro the Streights of Malacca thro which we came before Captain Brewster and another of our Passengers began now to be in fear that the King of Siam would send Ships to lye at the Mouth of the Streights of Malacca and intercept our passage because there was a War broke out between the English East India Company and that Prince This seemed the more likely because the French at this time were imployed in that Kings service by the means of a French Bishop and other Ecclesiasticks who were striving to convert the King and people to Christianity thro the Interest they had got in Constant Falcon. Particularly they were afraid that the King of Siam would send the 2 Ships before mentioned which Captain Williams and Capt Howel had commanded a little before to lye at the west end of the Streights mouth but probably mann'd with French Men and French Commanders to take us Now tho this made but little impression on the minds of our Commanders and Officers yet it so happened that we had such thick dark weather when we came near the first Entrance of the Streights of Malacca which was that we came by and by which we meant to return that we thought it not safe to stand in at night and so lay by till morning The next day we saw a Jonk to the Southward and chased her and having spoke with her we made sail and stood to the Westward to pass the Streights and making the Land we found we were to the
Yams Potatoes c. to carry aboard with us on which we fed commonly all our Voyage But after six or seven Months I left that employ also and shipt my self aboard one Capt. Hudsel who was bound to the Bay of Campeachy to load Logwood We sailed from Port-Royal about the beginning of August in 1675. in Company with Capt. Wren in a small Jamaica Bark and Capt. Johnson Commander of a Ketch belonging to New-England This Voyage is all the way before the Wind and therefore Ships commonly sail it in 12 or 14 Days Neither were we longer in our Passage for we had very fair Weather and touch'd no where till we came to Trist Island in the Bay of Campeachy which is the only place they go to In our way thither we first sailed by little Caimanes leaving it on our Larboard side and Key Monbrack which are two small Islands lying South of Cuba The next Land we saw was the Isle of Pines and steering still Westerly we made Cape Corienes And sailing on the South side of Cuba till we came to Cape Antonio which is the West end of it we stretched over towards the Peninsula of Jucatan and fell in with Cape Catoch which is in the Extream part of that Promontory towards the East The Land trends from this Cape one way South about 40 Leagues till you come to the Island Cozumel and from thence it runs S. W. down into the Bay of Honduras About 10 Leagues from Cape Catoch between it and Cozumel lies a small Island called by the Spaniards Key-Muger or Womens-Island because 't is reported that when they went first to settle in these parts they left their Wives there while they went over on the main to find some better Habitation Tho' now they have no settlement near it whatever they have had formerly About 3 Leagues from Cape Catoch and just against it is a small Island called Loggerhead-Key probably because it is frequently visited by a sort of Turtle so called near this Island we always find a great ripling which Seamen call the Rip-raps This Cape tho' it appears to be part of the Main yet is divided from it by a small Creek scarce wide enough for a Canoa to pass through though by it 't is made an Island This I have been credibly informed of by some who yet told me that they made a shift to pass it in a Canoa The Cape is very low Land by the Sea but somewhat higher as you go further from the shore It is all over-grown with Trees of divers sorts especially Logwood and therefore was formerly much frequented by the Jamaica Men who came thither in Sloops to load with it till all the Logwoodtrees near the Sea were cut down but now 't is wholly abandoned because the Carriage of it to the shore requires more labour than the cutting logging and chipping Besides they find better Wood now in the Bays of Campeachy and Honduras and have but little way to carry it not above 300 Paces when I was there whereas at Cape Catoch they were forc'd to carry it 1500 Paces before they left that Place From Cape Catoch we coasted along by the shore on the North side of Jucatan towards Cape Condecedo The Coast lies nearest West The distance between these two Capes is about 80 Leagues The shore lies pretty level without any visible Points or Bendings in the Land It is woody by the shore and full of sandy Bays and lofty Mangroves The first place of Note to the West of Cape Catoch is a small Hill by the Sea call'd the Mount and is distant from it about 14 Leagues It is very remarkable because there is no other High-Land on all this Coast. I was never ashore here but have met with some well acquainted with the Place who are all of opinion that this Mount was not natural but the Work of Men And indeed it is very probable this Place has been inhabited for here are a great many large Cisterns supposed to have been made for the receiving of Rain-water for there are no fresh Springs to be found here the Soil being all sandy and very salt So that as I have been credibly informed by an intelligent Person the Spaniards do fetch of it to make Salt-Petre He also told me that being once there in a Privateer and landing some Men on the Bay they found about 100 Packs of this Earth bound up in Palmeto-leaves and a Spanish Mulatto to guard it The Privateers at first sight of the Packs were in hopes there had been Maiz or Indian Corn in them which they then wanted but opening them they found nothing but Earth and examining the Mulatto for what use it was he said to make Powder and that he expected a Bark from Campeachy to fetch it away He further told me that tasting of it he found it very salt as all the Earth thereabouts was So that 't is not improbable that those Cisterns were made for the carrying on a Salt-Petre-Work But whatever was the design at first it is now wholly laid aside for there is no use made of them neither are there any Inhabitants near this Place Between the Mount and Cape Condecedo close by the Sea are many little Spots of Mangrove-trees which at a distance appear-like Islands but coming nearer when other lower Trees appear it shews like ragged and broken Ground but at last all the Land presents it self to your view very even The next Place of Note on this Coast is Rio de la Gartos almost in the Mid-way between Cape Catoch and Cape Condecedo This also is a very remarkable Place for here are 2 Groves of High Magnroves one on each side the River by which it may be known very well The River is but small yet deep enough for Canoas The Water is good and I know not any other Brook or fresh River on all the Coast from Cape Catoch till within 3 or 4 Leagues of Campeachy Town A little to the East of this River is a Fish-Range and a small Indian Hutt or two within the Woods where the Indian Fishers who are subject to the Spaniards lye in the Fishing-Seasons their Habitations and Familes being farther up in the Country Here are Poles to hang their Nets on and Barbecues to dry their Fish When they go off to Sea they fish with Hook and Line about 4 or 5 Leagues from the shore for Snappers and Gropers which I have already described in my Voyage round the VVorld Chap. 4. Pag. 91. Since the Privateers and Logwood-ships have sailed this way these Fisher-men are very shy having been often snap'd by them So that now when they are out at Sea if they see a Sail they presently sink their Canoas even with the edge of the Water for the Canoas when they are full of Water will sink no lower and they themselves lye just with their heads above Water till the Ship which they saw is pass'd by or comes Night I have seen them under
Islands lying in the Lat. of about 23 d. North and distant from the Coast of Jucatan about 25 Leagues the biggest is not above a Mile or two in Circuit They are distant from one another 2 or 3 Miles not lying in a Line but soattering here and there with good Channels of 20 or 30 Fathom Water for a Ship to pass between All of them have good Anchoring on the West sides where you may ride in what depths you please from 10 to 2 Fathom Water clean sandy Ground On some there are a few low Bushes of Burton-Wood but they are mostly Barren and Sandy bearing nothing but only a little Chicken-Weed neither have they any fresh Water Their Land-Animals are only large Rats which are in great Plenty and of Fowls Boobies in vast abundance with Men of War and Egg-Birds These inhabit only on some of the Northermost of them not promiscuously one among another but each sort within their own Precincts viz. the Boobies and the other two sorts each a-part by themselves and thus two or three of the Islands are wholly taken up The Boobies being most numerous have the greatest portion of Land The Egg-Birds tho' they are many yet being but small take up but little room to the rest Yet in that little part which they inhabit they are sole Masters and not disturbed by their Neighbours All three sorts are very tame especially the Boobies and so thick settled that a Man cannot pass through their Quarters without coming within reach of their Bills with which they continually peck't at us I took notice that they sate in Pairs and therefore at first thought them to be Cock and Hen but upon striking at them one flew away from each place and that which was left behind seemed as malicious as the other that was gone I admired at the boldness of those that did not fly away and used some sort of violence to force them but in vain for indeed these were young Ones and had not yet learned the use of their Wings tho' they were as big and as well feathered as their Dams only their Feathers were something whiter and fresher I took notice that an old one either the Cock or Hen always sat with the Young to secure them for otherwise these Fowls would prey on each other the Strong on the Weak at least those of a different Kind would make bold with their Neighbours The Men-of-War-Birds as well as the Boobies left Guardians to the Young when they went off to Sea lest they should be starved by their Neighbours for there were a great many old and lame Men of War Birds that could not fly off to Sea to seek their own Food These did not inhabit among their Consorts but were either expelled the Community or else chose to lye out at some distance from the rest and that not altogether but scattering here and there where they could rob securest I saw near 20 of them on one of the Islands which sometimes would sally into the Camp to seek for Booty but presently retreated again whether they got any thing or nothing If one of these lame Birds found a Young Booby not guarded it presently gave him a good poult on the back with his Bill to make him disgorge which they will do with one stroak and it may be cast up a Fish or two as big as a Mans Wrist this they swallow in a trice and march off and look out for another Prize The sound Men-of-War will sometimes serve the old Boobies so off at Sea I have seen a Man-of-War fly directly at a Booby and give it one blow which has caused it to cast up a large Fish and the Man of War flying directly down after it has taken it in the Air before it reach'd the Water There are abundance of Fish at some distance from these Islands by which the Fowls inhabiting here are daily supplied The Fish near the Island are Sharks Sword Fishes and Nurses all three sorts delighting to be near sandy Bays those that I saw here were but of a small size the Sword-Fish not above a Foot and a half or two Foot long neither were the Sharks much longer and the Nurses about the same length The Nurse is just like a Shark only its skin is rougher and is used for making the finest Rasps Here are many Seals they come up to sun themselves only on two or three of the Islands I don't know whether exactly of the same kind with those in colder Climates but as I have noted in my former Book they always live where there is plenty of Fish To the North of these Islands lyes a long ledge of Rocks bending like a Bow it seems to be 10 or 12 Yards wide and about 4 Leagues long and 3 Leagues distant from the Island They are above Water all joyning very close to one another except at one or two Places where are small Passages about nine or ten Yards Wide 't was through one of these that Providence directed us in the Night for the next Morning we saw the Riff about half a Mile to the North of us and right against us was a small Gap by which we came in hither but coming to view it more nearly with our Boat we did not dare to venture out that way again One Reason why we would have gone out to the Northward was because from our Main-top we saw the Islands to the Southward of us and being unacquainted knew not whether we might find among them a Channel to pass through our second reason was the hopes of making a better slant in for the shore if we could weather the East end of the Riff In order to this we weighed Anchor keeping down by the side of the Riff till we were at the West end of it which was about a League from where we Anchored then we stood off to the North and there kept plying off and on to Weather the East end of the Riff three Days but not being able to effect it by reason of a strong Current setting to the N. W. we ran back again to the West end of the Riff and steered away for the Islands There we Anchored and lay three or four days and visited most of them and found plenty of such Creatures as I have already described Though here was great store of such good Food and we like to want yet we did neither salt any nor spend of it fresh to save our Stock I found them all but one Man averse to it but I did heartily wish them of another mind because I dreaded wanting before the end of the Voyage a hazard which we needed not to run there being here such plenty of Fowls and Seals especially of the latter that the Spaniards do often come hither to make Oyl of their Fat upon which account it has been visited by English men from Jamaica particularly by Capt. Long who having the command of a small Bark came hither purposely to make Seal-Oyl and
covered with Pantile There is a strong Citadel or Fort at one end planted with many Guns where the Governour resides with a small Garrison to defend it Though this Port Commands the Town and Harbour yet it hath been twice taken First by Sir Christopher Mims who about the Year 1659. having summoned the Governour and afterwards stayed 3 days for an Answer before he Landed his Men yet then took it by Storm and that only with small Arms. I have been told that when he was advised by the Jamaica Privateers to take it by Stratagem in the Night he replied that he scorned to steal a Victory therefore when he went against it he gave them warning of his Approach by his Drums and Trumpets yet he took the Fort at the first onset and immediately became Master of the Place It was taken a second time by English and French Privateers about the Year 1678. by surprize They Landed in the Night about 2 Leagues from the Town and marching into the Country lighted on a Path that brought them thither The next Morning near Sun-rising they entred the Town when many of the Inhabitants were now stirring in their Houses who hearing a noise in the Street look'd out to know the occasion and seeing Armed Men marching towards the Fort supposed them to be some Soldiers of their own Garrison that were returned out of the Country for about a Fortnight or 3 VVeeks before they had sent out a Party to suppress some Indians then in Rebellion a thing very Common in this Country Under favour of this Supposition the Privateers marched through the Streets even to the Fort without the least Opposition Nay the Towns-People bad them Good Morrow and Congratulated their safe return not discovering them to be Enemies till they fired at the Sentinels on the Fort-wall and presently after began a furious Attack and turning two small Guns which they found in the Parade against the Gates of the Fort they soon made themselves Masters of it The Town is not very rich though as I said before the only Sea-Port on all this Coast. The chiefest Manufacture of the Country is Cotton-Cloath this serves for cloathing the Indians and even the poorer sort of Spaniards wear nothing else It is used also for making Sails for Ships and remitted to other parts for the same purpose Besides Cotton-Cloath and Salt fetch'd from the Salinas I know of no other vendible Commodity exported hence Indeed formerly this place was the Scale of the whole Logwood-Trade which is therefore still called Palo i. e. VVood de Campeachy tho' it did not grow nearer than at 12 or 14 Leagues distance from the Town The place where the Spaniards did then cut it was at a River called Champeton about 10 or 12 Leagues to Leeward of Campeachy Town the Coast from thence South the Land pretty high and rocky The Native Indians that lived hereabouts were hired to cut it for a Ryal a Day it then being worth 90 100 01 110 l. per Tun. After the English had taken Jamaica and began to cruise in this Bay they found many Barks laden with it but not knowing its value then they either set them adrift or burned them saving only the Nails and Iron work a thing now usual among the Privateers taking no notice at all of the Cargo till Cap. James having taken a great Ship laden with it and brought her home to England to fit her for a Privateer beyond his Expectation sold his VVood at a great rate tho' before he valued it so little that he burned of it all his Passage home After his return to Jamaica the English visiting this Bay found out the Place where it grew and if they 〈◊〉 Prize at Sea they would go to Champeton 〈◊〉 where they were certain to find large Piles cut to their Hand and brought to the Sea-side ready to be ship'd off This was their Common Practice till at last the Spaniards sent Soldiers thither to prevent their Depredations But by this time the English knew the Trees as growing and understanding their value began to rummage other Coasts of the Main in search of it till according to their desire they found large Groves of it first at Cape Catoch which as I have said before was the first Place where they setled to Logwood-Cutting and loaded many Vessels from thence to Jamaica and other Places But it growing scarce there they found out the Lagune of Trist in the Bay of Campeachy where they followed the same Trade and have ever since continued it even to the time of my being here But to proceed From the River Champeton to Port-Royal is about 18 Leagues the Coast S. S. VV. or S. VV. by S. Low-land with a sandy Bay against the Sea and some Trees by the shore with small Savanahs mixt with small shrubby VVoods within Land all the way There is only one River between Champeton and Port-Royal called Port Escondedo Port-Royal is a broad Entrance into a Salt Lagune of 9 or 10 Leagues long and 3 or 4 wide with 2 Mouths one at each end This Mouth of Port-Royal hath a Barr whereon there is 9 or 10 Foot VVater VVithin the Bar it is deep enough and there is good Anchoring on either side The entrance is about a Mile over and two Miles in length it hath fair sandy Bays on each side with smooth Landing Ships commonly Anchor on the VVeather or East side next Champeton both for the convenience of some VVells there dug on the Bays by the Privateers and Logwood-Cutters as also to ride more out of the Tide which here runs very strong This Place is remarkable enough because from hence the Land trends away VVest and runs so for about 65 or 70 Leagues farther On the VVest side of this Harbour is a low Island called by Us Port-Royal-Island which makes one side of the Mouth as the Main does the other It is about 2 Miles wide and 3 Leagues long running East and VVest The East end of this Island is sandy and pretty clear of VVoods with some Grass bearing a small prickly Bur no bigger than a Grey Pea which renders it very troublesom to those that walk bare-foot as the Bay-Men often do There are some Bushes of Burton-wood And a little further to the VVest grow large Sapadillo-Trees whose Fruit is long and very pleasant The rest of the Island is more woody especially the North side which is full of white Mangrove close to the shore On the VVest side of this Island is another small low Island called Trist separated from the former by a small Salt Creek scarce broad enough for a Canoa to padle through The Island Trist is in some Places three Mile wide and about 4 Leagues in Length running E. and W. The East end is swampy and full of white Mangroves and the South side much the same The VVest part is dry and sandy bearing a sort of long Grass growing in Tufts very thin This is a sort of
great goggle Eyes and is very quick sighted It has a thick Neck and strong Legs but weak Footlocks The Hoofs of his Feet are Cloven in the middle And it has two small Hoofs above the Footlock which bending to the Ground when it goes make an Impression on the Sand like four Claws His Tail is short and tapering like a Swines without any Bob at the end This Beast is commonly fat and very good Meat It graseth ashore in wet swampy Ground near Rivers or Ponds but retires to the Water if pursued When they are in the Water they will sink down to the bottom and there walk as on dry Ground They will run almost as fast as a Man but if chased hard they will turn about and look very fierce like a Boar and fight if put to it The Natives of the Country have no Wars with these Creatures but we had many Conflicts with them both on Shore and in the Rivers and though we commonly got the better by killing some and routing the rest yet in the Water we durst not molest them after one Bout which had like to have proved fatal to 3 Men that went in a small Canoa to kill a single Sea-Horse in a River where was 8 or 10 Foot Water The Horse according to his Custom was marching in the bottom of the River and being espied by these Men they wounded him with a long Lance which so enraged the Beast that he rose up immediately and giving a fierce look he opened his Jaws and bit a great piece of the Gunnal or upper edge of the Canoa and was like to over-set it but presently sunk down again to the bottom and the Men made away as fast as they could for fear he should come again The West Branch of the River St. Peter St. Paul after it has run 8 or 9 Leagues N. W loseth it self in Tobasco River about 4 Leagues from the Sea and so makes the Island Tobasco which is 12 Leagues long and 4 broad at the North end for from the River St. Peter St. Paul to the mouth of Tobasco River is accounted 4 Leagues and the Shore lies East and West The first League on the East is Mangrove-Land with some Sandy Bay where Turtle come ashore to lay their Eggs. The West part of it is Sandy Bay quite to the River Tobasco But because here is constantly a great Sea you have no good Landing till within the River The N. W. part of it is full of Guaver Trees of the greatest variety and their fruit the largest and best tasted I have met with and 't is really a very delicious place There are also some Coco-Plums and Grapes but not many The Savannahs here are naturally fenced with Groves of Guavers and produce good Grass for Pasture and are pretty well stock'd with fat Bullocks and I do believe it is from their eating the Guaver Fruit that these Trees are so thick For this fruit is full of small seeds which being swallowed whole by the Cattle are voided whole by them again and then taking root in their Dung spring up abundantly Here are also Deer in great numbers these we constantly find feeding in the Savannahs Mornings and Evenings And I remember an unlucky Accident whilst I was there Two or three Men went out one Evening purposely to hunt when they were in the spots of Savannahs they separated to find their Game and at last it so happened that one of them fired at a Deer and killed it and while he was skinning it he was shot stark dead by one of his Consorts who fired at him mistaking him for a Deer The poor Man was very sorry for so sad a mischance and for fear of the dead Man's Friends durst never go back again to Jamaica The River of Tobasco is the most noted in all the Bay of Campeachy and springs also from the high Mountains of Chiapo but much more to the Westward than that of St. Peter St. Paul From thence it runs N. E. till within 4 Leagues of the Sea where it receives the fore-mentioned Branch of St. Peter St. Paul and then runs North till it falls into the Sea Its Mouth is about two Miles wide and there is a Bar of Sand lying off it with not above 11 or 12 foot Water but a Mile or two within the Mouth at a nook or bending of the River on the East-side there is three Fathom and good Riding without any danger from the strength of the Current The Tide flows up about four Leagues in the dry Season but in the Rains not so far for then the Freshes make the Ebb run very strong During the Norths it over-flows all the low Land for 14 or 15 Leagues up the River and you may then take up fresh Water without the Bar. This River near its Mouth abounds with Cat-fish with some Snooks and Manatee in great plenty there being good feeding for them in many of its Creeks especially in one place on the Starbord side about 2 Leagues from the Sea which runs into the Land 2 or 300 paces and then opens very wide and is so shoal that you may see their backs above Water as they feed a thing so rare that I have heard our Musketo-men say they never saw it any where else On the least noise they will all scamper out into the River yet the Musketo-men seldom miss of striking them These are a sort of Fresh-water Manatee not altogether so big as the Sea kind but otherwise exactly alike in shape and tast and I think rather fatter The Land by the Rivers especially on tne Starbord side is swampy and over-grown with Trees Here are also abundance of Land-Turtle the largest that I ever saw till I came to the Gallapagos Islands in the S. Seas viz. Mangroves Macaws and other sorts that I know not In some places near the River side further up the Country are Ridges of dry Land full of lofty Cabbage and Cotton Trees which make a very pleasant Landskip There is no Settlement within 8 Leagues of the River's Mouth and then you come to a small Breast-work where there is commonly a Spaniard with 8 or 9 Indians posted on each side the River to watch for Boats coming that way And because there are divers Greeks running in from the Savannahs some of these Sentinels are so placed in the Woods that they may look into the Savannahs for fear of being surprized on the back side Yet for all their caution these Sentinels were snap'd by Captain Nevil Commander of a small Brigantine in a second Expedition that he made to take the Town called Villa de Mose His first Attempt miscarried by his being discovered But the second time he got into a Creek a League below these Sentinels and there dragging his Canoas over some Trees that were laid cross it purposely to hinder his passage he came in the night upon their backs in their several Posts so that the Town having no notice of his coming
them there no other way than by Wet and Dry and these wet and dry Seasons do as successively follow each other as Winter and Summer do with us Here are also strong Currents sometimes setting one way sometimes another which though it is hard to describe with that Accuracy which is desirable yet I shall give as particular an Account of them as also of the several sorts of Winds as my own Observations and the Judicious Informations from others will afford me Matter to do Of the General Trade-Wind A View of the General Coasting TRADE-Winds in the great SOUTH OCEAN These general Trade-Winds are only in the Atlantick Ocean which parts Africa from America in the East Indian Ocean and in the Great South-Sea In all these Seas except just under or near the Line they constantly blow without Intermission as well to the South as to the North of the Equator but not with equal force at all Times nor in all Latitudes Neither do these constant Trade-Winds usually blow near the shoar but only in the Ocean at least 30 or 40 Leagues off at Sea clear from any Land especially on the West Coast or side of any Continent For indeed on the East side the Easterly Wind being the true Trade-Wind blows almost home to the shore so near as to receive a check from the Land-Wind and oft-times to admit of the Sea-Breez by which it is drawn from its Course frequently 4 or 5 Points of the Compass But of the Sea-Breez I shall speak in its place In some Places and particularly the South Seas in South Lat. the true Eastern Trade is not found to blow within 150 or near 200 Leagues of the Coast but in North Lat. in those Seas it comes within 30 or 40 Leagues distance of the Shore And this I shall give as a general Rule That in North Lat. these Winds are commonly at E. N. E. in South Lat. at E. S. E. When we go from England and are bound to the East or West Indies or to Guinea we commonly find these Winds in the Lat. of 30 d. sometimes sooner as in the Latitudes of 32 or 35. And it may so happen that we may meet with an Easterly Wind in 40 d. or go out of our own Channel with a North East Wind which sometimes also fails us not till we come into a true Trade-Wind but this is only accidental therefore is not the Wind that I speak of but between 32 and 28 I did never know nor hear that the true Trade-Wind failed If in coming from England we have a North Easterly Wind that brings us hither i. e. into the true Trade-Wind it sometimes stays at North East especially if we keep near the African Shore as Guinea Ships do till we are near the Tropick of Cancer and then comes to the E. N. E. where it settles but commonly it settles there in 28 d. if we are so far off Shore as to receive the true Trade When the Wind is thus settled we have commonly fair Weather and a clear Sky especially if the Sun is in any Southern Sign but if in a Northern Sign the Weather is usually cloudy On the contrary when we are in South Lat. in the Atlantick if the Sun is in Northern Signs the Sky is clear but if in Southern Signs the Sky is cloudy This I once experienced to my sorrow in my return from Bantam in the Year 1671. We had cloudy Weather and brisk Winds while we were crossing the East Indian Ocean and had a very good Passage also about the Cape of good Hope where we had fair clear Weather And steering from thence for the Island St. Hellena where we thought to Water and Refresh as all our English East India Ships do we mist it for want of an Observation For before we came to the Tropick of Capricorn the Sky was again clouded so that we seldom saw the Sun or Stars till we were quite past the Island However we found the Isle of Ascention where we struck two Turtle for this was not the laying time but the beginning of the Cooting or Ingendring Season therefore some few only were drawn hither This was the latter end of November From the time that we thought our selves to the West of St. Hellena we had our VVater measured out to us 2 Pints a Man per day till we came into our Channel This was the first time that I began to know the value of fresh VVater for we took in none in all our way home from Bantam But so much for this Digression The VVinds as I said before as we run to the Southward from England do first settle in the E. N. E. about the Lat. of 28 d. or be sure between that and 24 d. especially when the Sun is to the Southward of the Line but in May June and July you will find the VVinds at E. by S. or E. S. E. These VVinds whether we meet them to the North of the East or to the South of it we find blowing a moderate Gale from our first meeting them in 30 or 28 d. till we come to the Tropick there we find the Trade stronger It commonly blows a good Topsail-gale as we sail large And if we were to sail on a VVind our lower Sails would be enough These brisk Gales blow in the Atlantick Ocean and North of the Equator from the Lat. of 23 to 12 or 14 constantly between the E. N. E. and the E. But between 10 or 12 degrees and the Line they are not so fresh nor constant to that Point for in the Months of July and August the South VVinds do oft times blow even to 11 d. or 12 d. of North Lat. keeping between the S. S. E. and the S. S. VV. or S. VV. but in December and January the true Trade blows within 3 d. or 4 d. of the Equator And as the Sun returns again to the Northward so the Southerly VVinds do increase and draw more to the Northward of the Line till July and then gradually withdraw back again towards the Line VVhen the Sun is in Southern Signs 't is the best time of the Year to cross the Line if bound to the Southward for besides the benefit of the true Trade to bring a Ship near the Line the VVind is then more constant and fresh the VVeather clearer and the VVinds which at other times are between the S. S. E. and S. S. VV. are now at S. E. or S. E. and by E. but in our Summer Months we find nothing but Calms and Tornadoes and tho' Tornadoes do usually rise against the settled VVind yet but few Commanders will endeavour to take the Advantage of the VVinds that come from them but rather furl their Topsails hall up their Corses and lye still till the gust of Wind is past except necessity requires haste for these sudden Tornadoes do not continue long and besides often very violent and fierce so that a Ship with her sails loose would be
the Line in the Months of April and September but near the Line as a degree or two on each side the Winds are not so constant Indeed there they are so very uncertain that I cannot be particular so as to give any true Account of them Only this I know that Calms are very frequent there as also Tornadoes and sudden Gusts in which the Winds fly in a moment quite round the Compass CHAP. IV. Of Sea and Land-Breezes How Sea-Breezes differ from Common Trade-Winds The time and manner of their Rise And particularly at Jamaica Of the Land-Breezes The time and manner of their Rise As on the Isthmus of Darien and at Jamaica The places where these Winds blow strongest or slackest as at Gapes and Head Lands deep Bays Lagunes and Islands Seals-Skin Bladders used instead of Bark Loggs SEA-Breezes generally speaking are no other than the Common Trade-Wind of the Coasts on which they blow with this difference that whereas all Trade-Winds whether they are those that I call the general Trade-Winds at Sea or coasting Trade-Winds either constant or shifting do blow as well by Night as by Day with an equal briskness except when Tornadoes happen So contrarily Sea-Winds are only in the Day and cease in the Night and as all Trade-Winds blow constantly near to one Point of the Compass both where the constant Trade-Winds are or where they shift on the contrary these Sea-Winds do differ from them in this that in the Morning when they first spring up they blow commonly as the Trade-Winds on the Coast do at or near the same Point of the Compass but about Mid-Day they fly off 2 3 or 4 Points further from the Land and so blow almost right in on the Coast especially in fair Weather for then the Sea-Breezes are truest as for instance on the Coast of Angola the Land lies almost North and South there the Trade-Wind is from the S. S. W. to the S. W. the true Sea Breezes near the shore are at W. by S. or W. S. W. and so of any other Coast. These Sea-Breezes do commonly rise in the Morning about Nine a Clock sometimes sooner sometimes later they first approach the shore so gently as if they were afraid to come near it and oft-times they make some faint breathings and as if not willing to offend they make a halt and seem ready to retire I have waited many a time both ashore to receive the pleasure and at Sea to take the benefit of it It comes in a fine small black Curle upon the Water whenas all the Sea between it and the shore not yet reach'd by it is as smooth and even as Glass in Comparison in half an Hour's time after it has reached the shore it fans pretty briskly and so increaseth gradually till 12 a Clock then it is commonly strongest and lasts so till 2 or 3 a very brisk gale about 12 at Noon it also veres off to Sea 2 or 3 Points or more in very fair Weather After 3 a Clock it begins to dye away again and gradually withdraws its force till all is spent and about 5 a Clock sooner or later according as the Weather is it is lull'd asleep and comes no more till the next Morning These Winds are as constantly expected as the day in their proper Latitudes and seldom fail but in the wet Season On all Coasts of the main whether in the East or West Indies or Guinea they rise in the Morning and withdraw towards the Evening yet Capes and Head Lands have the greatest benefit of them where they are highest rise earlier and blow later Bays contrarily have the disadvantage for there they blow but faintly at best and their continuance is but short Islands that lye nearest East and West have the benefit of these Winds on both sides equally for if the Wind is at S. W. or S. W. by S. on the South side of any Island then on the North side it would be at N. W. or N. W. by N. i. e. in fair Weather but if turbulent Weather it would be E. S. E. on the Southside and E. N. E. on the other But this true Sea-Breeze does not veer so far out except only near the shore as about 3 or 4. Leagues distant for farther than that you will find only the right Coasting Trade-Wind This I have experienced in several Parts of the World particularly at Jamaica about which I have made many Voyages both on the North and the South side where I have experienced the Sea-Breezes very much to differ for on the South side I have found the true Sea-Wind after 12 a Clock and in very fair Weather at S. or S. S. E. though it sprung up in the Morning at E. S. E. or S. E. And on the North side I have found the Sea-Breez at N. or N. N. E. though it rose in the Morning at E. N. E. but whether there may be the like difference about smaller Islands as at Barbadoes c. I cannot determine tho' I am apt to believe there is not So much for the Sea-Winds next of the Land-Breezes Land-Breezes are as remarkable as any Winds that I have yet treated of they are quite contrary to the Sea-Breezes for those blow right from the shore but the Sea-Breez right in upon the shore And as the Sea-Breezes do blow in the Day and rest in the Night so on the contrary these do blow in the Night and rest in the Day and so they do alternately succeed each other For when the Sea-Breezes have performed their Offices of the Day by breathing on their respective Coasts they in the Evening do either withdraw from the Coast or lye down to rest Then the Land-Winds whose Office it is to breathe in the Night moved by the same order of Divine Impulse do rouze out of their private recesses and gently fan the Air till the next Morning and then their task ends and they leave the Stage There can be no proper time set when they do begin in the Evening or when they retire in the Morning for they do not keep to an hour but they commonly spring up between 6 and 12 in the Evening and last till 6 8 or 10 in the Morning They both come and go away again earlier or later according to the Weather the Season of the Year or some accidental Cause from the Land For on some Coasts they do rise earlier blow fresher and remain later than on other Coasts as I shall shew hereafter They are called Land-Winds because they blow off shore contrary to the Sea-Breez which way soever the Coast lies Yet I would not so be understood as if these Winds are only found to breathe near the shores of any Land and not in the Inland Parts of such Countries remote from the Sea for in my Travells I have found them in the very heart of the Countries that I have passed through as particularly on the Isthmus of Darien and the Island of Jamaica Both
of the Trade Winds I shall instance Barbadoes for one and all the Carribbes may as well be included The greater Islands as Hispaniola Jamaica and Cuba have only some particular Capes or Head-Lands exposed to Currents as Cape Tiberoon on Hispaniola Point Pedro and the N. E. Point of Jamaica Cape de Cruz Cape Corientes and Cape Antonios on Cuba But of all the Islands in the West Indies there are none more sensible of Currents than Corrisao Aruba nor any Capes on the Continent so remarkable for Currents as Cape Roman which shoots out against the Sea betweenthose two Places as also Cape Coquibaco and Cape La Vela to Leeward all three on the same Head-Land which shoots forth far without any other Land on the Coast. There is no such Head-Land till you come to Cape Gratia de Dios which is about 260 Leagues to Leeward Indeed to the East-ward there is Land that trends out almost so far within 150 Leagues of it Viz. The Island Trinidado and the Land against it and there also are great Currents But I shall first speak of the Currents between Cape La Vela and Cape Gratia de Dios. The Currents at Cape La Vela do seldom shift therefore Ships that ply to Wind-ward to get about it do not ply near the shore but stand off to Sea till they come in sight of Hispaniola and then back again till within about 6 or 8 Leagues of the Cape but not nearer But in the Westerly Wind-Season which is from October till March Ships often meet Westerly Winds that last two or three Days with which they may run to the Eastward without any trouble Between Cape La Vela and Cape Gratia de Dios the Currents are much different from what they are against the Cape and this seems to proceed from the make of the Land for the shore between the two Capes runs into the Southward making a great Bay And this Bay affords more varieties of Winds and Currents than any one part of the West Indies besides Here in the Westerly Wind-Season the Current sets to the Westwards constantly but sometimes stronger than at other times At about four Leagues off shore you find it and so it continues till you are 20 25 or 30 Leagues off Beyond that you meet with an Easterly Wind and if there is any Current it runs also to the Westward therefore Ships that are bound to the Westward must run off to Sea Thirty or Forty Leagues to get a Wind or else if they have but a little way to go they must ply close under the shore that so they may Anchor when they please Otherwise they will be carried away to the Eastward Fourteen or Sixteen Leagues in a Nights time and that too though they have a faint Easterly Wind as frequently they meet with though 't is the Westerly Wind-Season To the East of Cape Roman as high as the Island Trinidado you meet only a soaking faint Current setting to the Westward except only near such places as shoot out farthest into the Sea as about the Testegos which are small Islands lying to Wind-ward of the Island Margarita Between those Islands and the Main you meet with a pretty strong Current therefore it is hard getting to the East-ward there but on all the Coast between Cape Roman and the Head-Land shooting out towards the Testegos you may ply up with the Land and Sea-Breezes From thence till you come as high as the East-end of Trinidado Isle you meet with an extraordinary strong Current From the east-East-end of Trinidado till you come to Surinam though you meet an Easterly Current yet 't is possible to beat it up with the Land and Sea-Breezes From Surianam also to Cape Blanco you may turn it up though to be sure you 'l meet with Currents setting to the West except near the Full of the Moon and then on all the Coasts before-mentioned we commonly meet with Currents setting to the Eastward at least then it slackens and stands still if it doth not run to the East-ward But when you are come as far to the East as Cape Blanco on the North of Brazil you meet with a Current always against you and so from thence Southerly as far as Cape St. Augustine There is no dealing with this Promontory for it shoots out so far into the Sea and thereby lies so exposed to the Sea-Breezes and the Currents that soak down between Africa and Brazil that it is quite contrary to reason to think there should not always be a strong Current setting to the N. W. I have before hinted That in all places where the Trade blows we find a Current setting with the Wind which is not so perceptible in the wide Sea as nearer the Shores yet even there the force of the Winds constantly blowing one way may and probably does move the surface of the Water along with it From hence it may be inferred that the Southerly Winds on the Coast of Africa and the true Trade between it and Brazil gently move the surface of the Sea with it and the Trade being mostly at S. E. drives the Sea to the Northward slanting in on the Coast of Brazil which being there stop'd by the Land bends its Course Northerly towards Cape St. Augustine And after it has doubled that great Promontory it falls away more gently towards the Coast of Suranam and from thence towards the West Indies For after it has doubled that Promontory it has more room to spread it self and thereby becomes weaker in motion being agitated by the Trade-winds which to the North of the Line we find commonly blowing at E. N. E. and this still bears the Sea slanting down along the Coast to the Westward And probably 't is for this Reason that we find the Current setting strongest near those Head-Lands before-mentioned Whereas at Barbadoes and other of the Caribee Islands we find only a soaking Current such as seems to arise only from the constancy of the Trade-winds blowing there and not from an original Current from the South part of the Atlantick which as I said before doubles about Cape St. Augustine and so Coasts along pretty nigh the shore The Currents about the Island Trinidado and at Currisao and Aruba as also between them and Cape Roman seem to indicate as much The Currents also between Cape Roman and Cape La Vela indicate the same From Cape La Vela the Currents set still to the Westward towards Cape Gratia de Dios but in a direct Line and not borrowing or slanting in towards the shore For as I said before it is a large Bay and Currents commonly set from one Head-Land to another so that Bays have seldom any or if they have they are only Counter Currents And these Counter Currents too do set from one Point to another without interfering with the little Bays between And 't is also very probable that these Counter Currents such as we meet with in this Bay in their Seasons after they have
surrounded the Bay and are got as far to the East as Cape La Vela wheel off there and turn about again with the Stream to the Westward like an Eddy in a River From Cape Gratia de Dios the Current sets away N. W. towards Cape Catoch and so passes away to the Northward between Cape Catoch on Jucatan and Cape Antonio on Cuba In the Channel between those two Capes we commonly find a strong Current setting to the Northward And here I have found them extraordinary strong On the North side of Jucatan as you pass into the Bay of Campeachy you meet with a small soaking Current to the Westward even down to the bottom of the Bay of Mexico but on the North side of the Bay of Mexico the Current sets to the Eastward And 't is probable that is the reason that the Spaniards coming from La Vera Cruz keep that shore aboard And 't is as probable that the Current which sets to Leeward on all the Coast from Cape St. Agustine to Cape Catoch never enters the Bay of Mexico but bends still to the Northward till 't is check'd by the Florida shore and then wheels about to the East till it comes nearer the Gulphs Mouth and there joyning with the soaking Current that draws down on the North sides of Hispaniola and Cuba passes altogether with great strength through the Gulph of Florida which is the most remarkable Gulph in the World for its Currents because it always sets very strong to the North. Yet near the shores on each side this Gulph there are Tides especially on the Florida shore and Ships may pass which way they please if they are acquainted It has formerly been accounted very dangerous to meet with a North in this Gulph and for that Reason our Jamaica Ships to avoid them have rather chosen to go to the Eastward and pass through the Cacuses in the Season that the Norths do blow The Cacuses are Sands that lye off the N. W. end of Hispaniola Those that went from Port Royal in Jamaica had good reason for this for if a North took them at their going out it would help them forward in their way which should they have been going towards the Gulph it would obstruct them Then besides if a North take a Ship in the Gulph the Wind blowing against the Current makes an extraordinary Sea and so thick come the Waves one after another that a ship can't possibly live in it yet of late they go through at all times of the Year and if a North takes them in the Gulph they put away right before the Wind Sea with a small head Sail yet the Current is then as strong or stronger than at other times and forces them back stern formost against both Wind and Sea For tho' the surface of the Sea is raised in Waves and driven violently with the Winds to the Southward yet the Current underneath runs still to the Northward neither is it any strange thing to see two different Currents at one place and time the superficial Water running one way and that underneath running a quite contrary For sometimes at an Anchor I have seen the Cable carryed thus by two different Streams the under part having been doubled one way and the upper part the contrary But 't is certain in all other parts of the World the Current shifts at certain times of the Year As in the East Indies they run from East to West one part of the Year and from West to East the other part Or as in the West Indies and Guinea where they shift only near a Full Moon This is meant of parts of the Sea near any Coast yet there are strong Currents in the wide Ocean also setting contrary to the Rules before-going I mean against the Trade but 't is not common On the Coast of Guinea the Current sets East except at or near a Full Moon but to the South of the Line from Loango to 25 or 30 d. the Current sets with the Wind from S. to N. except near the Full. To the Eastward of the Cape of Good Hope from 30 d. South to 24 d. South the Currents from May till Oct. set E. N. E. and the Winds then are at W. S. W. or S. W. but from Oct. till May when the Winds are between the E. N. E. and E. S. E. the Currents run to the West These Currents are thus found from 5 or 6 Leagues off the shore to about 50. Within 5 Leagues off the shore you have the Tide and not a Current and being past 50 Leagues off shore the Current either ceaseth quite or is imperceptible On the Coast of India North of the Line the Current sets with the Monsoon but does not shift altogether so soon sometimes not by 3 Weeks or more and then never shifts again till after the Moonsoon is settled in the contrary way As for Example the West Monsoon sets in the middle of April but the Current does not shift till the beginning of May So when the East Monsoon sets in about the middle of September the Current does not shift till October In the South Seas on the Coast of Peru the Current sets from South to North even from 30 d. to the Line and to 3 or 4 d. North of it At the Gallapagos Islands we found a soaking Current not very strong but so strong that a ship could get very little by turning and 't is probable that nearer the Main they are stronger because of the constant Southerly Winds The most remarkable Places for Currents in the South Seas are Cape St. Francis Cape Passao Cape St. Laurence and Cape Blanco This last has commonly very strong Currents setting to the N. W. which hinders ships mightily and the more because it is a very windy place so that many times ships are not able to carry their Top-sails and then it is but bad plying to Wind-ward against a Current I had not so much Experience of the Mexican Coast because we commonly kept within the Verge of the Tides But on the Coast of Guatamala in the Lat. of 12 d. 50 m. and 13 d. we had a Current setting S. W. and it is probable that here also the Current sets with the Winds For as it is before noted the Currents on all Coasts sets as the coasting Trade does And thus have I finished what my own Experience or Relations from my Friends have furnished me with on this useful Subject of Winds Tides Currents c. which I humbly offer not as a compleat and perfect Accouut but as a rude and imperfect Beginning or Specimen of what may better be done by abler Hands hereafter And I hope this may be useful so far as to give a few hints to direct the more accurate Observations of others The following Paper containing a short Description of a part of Africk that is not well known to Europeans I thought would not be unacceptable to the curious Reader I have therefore annexed
of the biggest Island that between both there is formed a very commodious Harbour The entrance of this Harbour is on the North side where the two Islands are near a mile asunder There are 3 or 4 small Keys and a good deep Channel between them and the biggest Island Towards the South end of the Harbour the two Islands do in a manner close up leaving only a small passage for Boats and Canoas There are no more Islands on the North side but 5 or 6 on the South side of the great Island See the Table The Mold of these Islands for the biggest part is blackish and pretty deep only the Hills are somewhat stony The Eastern part of the biggest Island is sandy yet all cloathed with Trees of divers sorts The Trees do not grow so thick as I have seen them in some places but they are generally large and tall and fit for any uses There is one sort of Tree much larger than any other on this Island and which I have not seen any where else It is about 3 or 4 foot diameter in the Body from whence is drawn a sort of clammy juice which being boiled a little becomes perfect Tar and if you boil it much it will become hard as Pitch It may be put to either use we used it both ways and found it to be very serviceable The way that they get this juice is by cutting a great gap horizontally in the body of the Tree half through and about a foot from the ground and then cutting the upper part of the body aslope inwardly downward till in the middle of the Tree it meet with the traverse cutting or plain In this plain horizontal semicircular stump they make a hallow like a Bason that may contain a quart or two Into this hole the juice which drains from the wounded upper part of the Tree falls from whence you must empty it every day It will run thus for some months and then dry away and the Tree will recover again The Fruit-trees that nature hath bestowed on these Isles are Mangoes and Trees bearing a sort of Grape and other Trees bearing a kind of wild or bastard Nutmegs These all grow wild in the Woods and in very great plenty The Mangoes here grow on Trees as big as Apple-trees Those at Fort St. George are not so large The fruit of these is as big as a small Peach but long and smaller towards the top It is of a yellowish colour when ripe it is very juicy and of a pleasant smell and delicate taste When the Mango is young they cut them in two pieces and pickle them with Salt and Vineger in which they put some Cloves of Garlick This is an excellent sawce and much esteemed it is called Mango Achar Achar I presume signifies Sawce They make in the East Indies especially at Siam and Pegu several sorts of Achar as of the young tops of Bamboes c. Bambo Achar and Mango Achar are most used The Mangoes were ripe when we were there as were also the rest of these Fruits and they have then so delicate a fragrancy that we could smell them out in the thick Woods if we had but the wind of them while we were a good way from them and could not see them and we generally found them out this way Mangoes are common in many places of the East Indies but I did never know any grow wild only at this place These though not so big as those I have seen at Achin at Maderas and Fort St. George are yet every whit as pleasant as the best sort of their Garden Mangoes The Grape-tree grows with a strait body of a Diameter about a foot or more and hath but few Limbs or Boughs The Fruit grows in Clusters all about the body of the Tree like the Jack Durian and Cacao Fruits There are of them both red and white They are much like such Grapes as grow on our Vines both in shape and colour and they are of a very pleasant Winy taste I never saw these but on the two biggest of these Islands the rest had no Tar-trees Mango's Grape-trees nor Wild Nutmegs The Wild Nutmeg-tree is as big as a Walnut-tree but it does not spread so much The Boughs are gross and the Fruit grows among the Boughs as the Wallnut and other Fruits This Nutmeg is much smaller than the true Nutmeg and longer also It is inclosed with a thin Shell and a sort of Mace encircling the Nut within the Shell This bastard Nutmeg is so much like the true Nutmeg in shape that at our first arrival here we thought it to be the true one but it has no manner of smell nor taste The Animals of these Islands are some Hogs Lizards and Guanoes and some of those Creatures mentioned in Chap. XI which are like but much bigger than the Guano Here are many sorts of Birds as Parrots Parakites Doves and Pigeons Here are also a sort of wild Cocks and Hens They are much like our tame Fowl of that kind but a great deal less for they are about the bigness of a Crow The Cocks do crow like ours but much more small and shrill and by their crowing we do first find them out in the Woods where we shoot them Their flesh is very white and sweet There are a great many Limpits and Muscles and plenty of green Turtle And upon this mention of Turtle again I think it not amiss to add some reasons to strengthen the opinion that I have given concerning these Creatures removing from place to place I have said in Chapter 5th that they leave their common feeding places and go to places a great way from thence to lay as particularly to the Island Ascention Now I have discoursed with some since that subject was printed who are of opinion that when the laying time is over they never go from thence but lye some where in the Sea about the Island which I think is very improbable for there can be no food for them there as I could soon make appear as particularly from hence that the Sea about the Isle of Ascention is so deep as to admit of no anchoring but at one place where there is no sign of Grass and we never bring up with our sounding Lead any Grass or Weeds out of very deep Seas but Sand or the like only But if this be granted that there is food for them yet I have a great deal of reason to believe that the Turtle go from hence for after the laying time you shall never see them and where ever Turtle are you will see them rise and hold their Head above water to breath once in 7 or 8 minutes or at longest in 10 or 12. And if any man does but consider how Fish take their certain seasons of the year to go from one Sea to another this would not seem strange even Fowls also having their seasons to remove from once place to another These Islands are pretty well watered
us at last the Captain ordered the Drum to be beaten which was done of a sudden with much vigor purposely to scare the poor Creatures They hearing the noise ran away as fast as they could drive and when they ran away in haste they would cry Gurry Gurry speaking deep in the Throat Those Inhabitants also that live on the Main would always run away from us yet we took several of them For as I have already observed they had such bad Eyes that they could not see us till we came close to them We did always give them victuals and let them go again but the Islanders after our first time of being among them did not stir for us When we had been here about a week we hal'd our Ship into a small sandy Cove at a Spring-tide as far as she would sloat and at low Water she was left dry and the sand dry without us near half a mile for the Sea riseth and falleth here about 5 fathom The Flood runs North by East and the Ebb South by West All the Neep-tides we lay wholly a ground for the Sea did not come near us by about a hundred yards We had therefore time enough to clean our Ships bottom which we did very well Most of our Men lay ashore in a Tent where our Sails were mending and our Strikers brought home Turtle and Manatee every day which was our constant food While we lay here I did endeavour to perswade our men to go to some English Factory but was threatened to be turned ashore and left here for it This made me desist and patiently wait for some more convenient place and opportunity to leave them than here Which I did hope I should accomplish in a short time because they did intend when they went from hence to bear down towards Cape Comorin In their way thither they design'd also to visit the Island Cocos which lyeth in Lat. 12 d. 12 m. North by our Drafts hoping there to find of that Fruit the Island having it name from thence CHAP. XVII Leaving New-Holland they pass by the Island Cocos and touch at another Woody Island near it A Land Animal like large Craw-fish Coco-Nuts floating in the Sea The Island Triste bearing Coco's yet over-flown every Spring-tide They anchor at a small Island near that of Nassaw Hog Island and others A Proe taken belonging to Achin Nicobar Island and the rest called by that Name Ambergrease good and bad The manners of the Inhabitants of these Islands They anchor at Nicobar Isle It s Situation Soil and pleasant Mixture of its Bays Trees c. The Melory tree and Fruit used for bread The Natives of Nicobar Island their Form Habit Language Habitations no form of Religion or Government Their Food and Canoas They clean the Ship The Author projects and gets leave to stay ashore here and with him two Englishmen more the Portuguese and 4 Malayans of Achin Their first Rencounters with the Natives Of the common Traditions concerning Cannibals or Man-Eaters Their Entertainment ashore They buy a Canoa to transport them over to Achin but overset her at first going cut Having recruited and improved her they set out again for the East side of the Island They have a War with the Islanders but Peace being re-established they lay in stores and make Preparations for their Voyage MArch the 12th 1688. we sailed from New Holland with the Wind at N. N. W. and fair weather We directed our course to the Northward intending as I said to touch at the Island Cocos but we met with the Winds at N. W. W. N. W. and N N. W. for several days which obliged us to keep a more Easterly course than was convenient to find that Island We had soon after our setting out very bad weather with much Thunder and Lightning Rain and high blustring Winds It was the 26th day of March before we were in the lat of the Island Cocos which is in 12 d. 12 m. and then by judgment we were 40 or 50 leagues to the East of it and the Wind was now at S. W. Therefore we did rather chuse to bear away towards some Islands on the West side of Sumatra than to beat against the Wind for the Island Cocos I was very glad of this being in hopes to make my escape from them to Sumatra or some other place We met nothing of remark in this Voyage beside the catching two great Sharks till the 28th day Then we fell in with a small woody Island in Lat. 10 d. 30 m. Its Longitude from New Holland from whence we came was by my account 12 d. 6 m. West It was deep water about the Island and therefore no anchoring but we sent 2 Canoas ashore one of them with the Carpenters to cut a Tree to make another Pump the other Canoa went to search for fresh water and found a fine small Brook near the S. W. point of the Island but there the Sea fell in on the ashore so high that they could not get it off At noon both our Canoas returned aboard and the Carpenters brought aboard a good Tree which they afterwards made a Pump with such a one as they made at Mindanao The other Canoa brought aboard as many Boobies and Men of War Birds as sufficed all the Ships Company when they were boiled They got also a sort of Land Animal somewhat resembling a large Craw-fish without its great Claws These creatures lived in holes in the dry sandy ground like Rabbits Sir Francis Drake in his Voyage round the world makes mention of such that he found at Ternate or some other of the Spice Islands or near them They were very good sweet Meat and so large that 2 of them were more than a Man could eat being almost as thick as ones Leg. Their Shells were of a dark brown but red when boiled This Island is of a good heighth with steep Cliffs against the S. and S. W. and a sandy Bay on the North side but very deep water steep to the shore The Mold is blackish the Soil fat producing large Trees of divers sorts About one a clock in the Afternoon we made sail from this Island with the wind at S. W. and we steered N. W. Afterwards the winds came about at N. W. and continued between the W. N. W. and the N. N. W. several days I observed that the winds blew for the most part out of the West or N. W. and then we had always rainy weather with Tornadoes and much Thunder and Lightning but when the wind came any way to the Southward it blew but faint and brought fair weather We met nothing of remark till the 7th day of April and then being in Lat. 7 d. S. we saw thâ—… Land of Sumatra at a great distance bearing North. The 8th day we saw the East end of the Island Sumatra very plainly we being then in Lat. 6 d. S. The 10th day being in Lat. 5 d. 11 m. and about 7
enough for small Barks 7 or 8 Mile up The Water is fresh 10 Months but in the midst of the dry Season 't is brackish Four Mile from the Mouth the Land on both sides these two Branches is wet and swampy affording only Mangroves by the Creeks sides only at the Heads of them there are many large Oaks besides which I did never see any growing within the Tropicks but 20 Paces within that grows plenty of Logwood therefore the Cutters settled themselves here also On the West side of the West Branch lyes a large Pasture for Cattle about 3 Miles from the Creek to which the Logwood-Cutters had made paths from their Huts to hunt Cattle which are always there in great numbers and commonly fatter than those in the Neighbouring Savannahs and therefore was called the fat Savannah and this West Creek was always most inhabited by Logwood-Cutters The Logwood-Trade was grown very common before I came hither here being as I said before about 260 or 270 Men living in all the Lagune and at Beef-Island of which Isle I shall speak hereafter This Trade had its Rise from the decay of Privateering for after Jamaica was well settled by the English and a Peace established with Spain the Privateers who had hitherto lived upon plundering the Spaniards were put to their shifts for they had prodigally spent whatever they got and now wanting subsistence were forced either to go to Petit Guavas where the Privateer-Trade still continued or into the Bay for Logwood The more Industrious sort of them came hither yet even these though they could work well enough if they pleased yet thought it a dry business to toil at Cutting Wood. They were good Marks-Men and so took more delight in Hunting but neither of those Employments affected them so much as Privateering therefore they often made Sallies out in small Parties among the nearest Indian Towns where they plundred and brought away the Indian Women to serve them at their Huts and sent their Husbands to be sold at Jamaica besides they had not their old Drinking-bouts forgot and would still spend 30 or 40 l. at a sitting aboard the Ships that came hither from Jamaica carousing and firing off Guns 3 or 4 days together And tho' afterwards many sober Men came into the Bay to cut Wood yet by degrees the old Standers so debauched them that they could never settle themselves under any Civil Government but continued in their Wickedness till the Spaniards encouraged by their careless Rioting fell upon them and took most of them singly at their own Huts and carried them away Prisoners to Campeachy or La Vera Cruz from whence they were sent to Mexico and sold to several Tradesmen in that City and from thence after two or three Years when they could speak Spanish many of them made their Escapes and marched in by-Paths back to La Vera Cruz and by the Flota conveyed to Spain and so to England I have spoke with many of them since who told me that none of them were sent to the Silver Mines to Work but kept in or near the City and never suffered to go with their Caravans to New Mexico or that way I relate this because it is generally suggested that the Spaniards commonly send their Prisoners thither and use them very barbarously but I could never learn that any European has been thus served whether for fear of discovering their Weakness or for any other Reason I know not But to proceed It is most certain that the Logwood-Cutters that were in the Bay when I was there were all routed or taken a thing I ever feared and that was the reason that moved me at last to come away although a Place where a Man might have gotten an Estate Having thus given an Account of the first settling of this Place by my Country-men I shall next say something concerning the Seasons of the Year some particulars of the Country its Animals of the Logwood-Trade and their manner of Hunting and several remarkable Passages that happened during my stay there This part of the Bay of Campeachy lyes in about 18d of North Lat. The Sea-Breezes here in fair weather are at N. N. E. or N. The Land-winds are at S. S. E. and S. but in bad Weather at E. S. E. a hard gale for two or three days together The dry Season begins in September and holds till April or May then comes in the wet Season which begins with Tornadoes first one in a day and by degrees increasing till June and then you have set Rains till the latter end of August This swells the Rivers so that they over-flow and the Savannahs begin to be covered with Water and although there may be some Intermissions of dry Weather yet there are still plentiful showers of Rain so that as the water does not increase neither does it decrease but continues thus till the North Winds are set in strong and then all the Savannahs for many Miles seems to be but part of the Sea The Norths do commonly set in about the beginning of October and continue by intervals till March But of these I shall speak more in my Chapter of Winds These Winds blowing right in on the Land drive in the Sea and keep the Tides from their constant Course as long as they last which is sometimes two or three Days by this means the Freshes are pent up and overflow much more than before tho' there be less Rain They blow most fiercely in December and January but afterwards they decrease in strength and are neither so frequent nor lasting and then the Freshes begin to drain from off the low Ground By the middle of Feb. the Land is all dry and in the next Month perhaps you will scarce get Water to drink even in those Savannahs that but 6 Weeks before were like a Sea By the beginning of April the Ponds also in the Savannahs are all dryed up and one that knows not how to get Water otherways may perish for thirst but those that are acquainted here in their Necessity make to the Woods and refresh themselves with Water that they find in wild Pines The wild Pine is a plant so called because it somewhat resembles the Bush that bears the Pine they are commonly supported or grow from some Bunch Knot or Excrescence of the Tree where they take root and grow upright The root is short and thick from whence the Leaves rise up in folds one within another spreading off at the top They are of a good thick Substance and about 10 or 12 Inches long The out side Leaves are so compact as to contain the Rain-water as it falls They will hold a Pint and a half or a Quart and this Water refreshes the Leaves and nourishes the Root When we find these Pines we stick our Knives into the Leaves just above the Root and that lets out the Water which we catch in our Hats as I have done many times to my great relief The Land near