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A05597 The totall discourse, of the rare adventures, and painefull peregrinations of long nineteene yeares travailes from Scotland, to the most famous kingdomes in Europe, Asia, and Affrica Perfited by three deare bought voyages, in surveying of forty eight kingdomes ancient and modern; twenty one rei-publicks, ten absolute principalities, with two hundred islands. ... divided into three bookes: being newly corrected, and augmented in many severall places, with the addition of a table thereunto annexed of all the chiefe heads. Wherein is contayed an exact relation of the lawes, religions, policies and governments of all their princes, potentates and people. Together with the grievous tortures he suffered by the Inquisition of Malaga in Spaine ... And of his last and late returne from the Northern Isles, and other places adjacent. By William Lithgow.; Most delectable, and true discourse, of an admired and painefull peregrination from Scotland, to the most famous kingdomes in Europe, Asia and Affricke Lithgow, William, 1582-1645? 1640 (1640) STC 15714; ESTC S108592 306,423 530

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I left the turmoyling dangers of the intricated Iles of the Ionean and Adriaticall seas and advised to travell in the firme land of Greece with a Caravan of Greekes that were bound for Athens Peterasso is a large and spacious City full of Merchandise and greatly beautified with all kind of C●mmercers Their chiefe commodities are raw Silkes Cloth of gold and silver Silken grow-grams Rich-Damask Velvets of all kinds with Sattins and Taffaties and especially a store-house for graine The Venetians Ragusans and Marseillians have great trading with them Here I remember there was an English Factor lying whom the Subbassa or Governour of the Towne a Turke caused privately afterward upon malice to be poysoned even when I was wintring at Constantinople for whose death the worthy and generous Ambassadour Sir Thomas Glover my Patron and Protector was so highly incensed that he went hither himselfe to Peterasso with two Ianizaries and a Warrant sent with him from the Emperour who in the midst of the Market-place of Peterasso caused one of these two Ianizaries strike off the head from the shoulders of that Sanzack and put to death divers others also that had beene accessary to the poysoning of the English Consull And the Ambassadour returning againe to Constantinople was held in singular reputation even with the Turkes for prosecuting so powerfully the sword of Justice and would not shrinke for no respect I being domesticke with him the selfe same time Pelop●nnesus now called Morea a Peninsula is all invironed with the sea save onely a narrow straight where it is tyed to the continent by an Istmus of five miles in breadth which the Venetian then Lord of it fortified with five Castles and a strong wall from creeke to creek which easily were subverted by the Turkish batteries the defect onely remaining in the defendants weaknesse and want of men Corinth and its gulfe lyeth at the East end of this Istmus and the Gulfe Lepanto on the West dividing Aetolia and Epyre The wall which traversed this strait of Morea was called Hexamite five miles long Truely it is one of the most famous destroit du terre en Europe Morea it selfe is in length 168. and in compasse 546. Miles and is at this day the most fertile and best inhabited Province of all the Empire of Greece The chiefe Rivers here are Arbona and Ropheos Argos here also is watered with the River Planizza neare which standeth the Towne of Epidaure wherein the Temple of Esculapius was so renowned for restoring of health to diseased persons It was anciently cognominate Agalia from Agalius the first King An. Mun. 1574. and also intituled from two Kings Sicionia and Apia then Peloponesus from Pelops and now Moreah It is divided in five territories or petty Provinces Laconia Arcadia Argolis Miseni● Eliso the proper territory of Corinth Of which City it was said Hor. Let men take heed of Lais Corinths whore Who earn'd ten thousand Drachmas in an houre It is said by Aeneas Silvius in his Cosmographicall treatise of Europe that divers Kings went about to dig through this Istmus to make it an Iland namely King Demetrius Iulius Caesar Caius Calig●la Domitius Nero of all whom he doth note that they not onely failed of their purpose but that they came to violent and unnaturall deaths But before the aforesaid Caravan at Paterasso admitted me into his company hee was wonderfull inquisitive to know for what cause I travailed alone and of what Nation I was To whom I soberly excused and discovered my self with modest answers which pacified his curiosity but not his avaritious mind for under a pretended protection he had of me hee extorted the most part of my money from my purse without any regard of Conscience In the first second and third dayes journeying we had faire way hard lodging but good cheare and kind entertainment for our money which was the Country Laconia But on the fourth day when we entred in the hilly and barren Country of Arcadia where for a daies journey we had no Village but saw abundance of Cattell without keepers and in that place it is thought the great battell of Pharsalia was fought between Iulius Caesar and Pompey the great Arcadia is bounded on the East with Eliso on the West with Misenia on the North with Achaia inferiour and on the South with a part of Laconia and the sea It was formerly termed Pelasgia and lastly it tooke the name from Arcas the sonne of Iupiter and Calisto the people whereof did long imagine they were more ancient than the Moon This soyle of whom Arcas great Patron was In age the Moone excell'd in wit the Asse But because it is a tradition of more antiquity than credit I doe rather note it than affirme it And as men should dread the thunder-bolt when they see the lightning so ignorance and Idolatry placed amongst us and round about us may be a warning to the professours of the truth to take heed of the venome lest by their Arcadian antiquity surpassing the Moone they become novices to some new intended Massacre for as powder faild them but alas not poison so now with policy they prevaile in all things how long the holy one of Israel knoweth but certainly our sins are the causes of their domineering our careles drooping In this desart way I beheld many singular Monuments and ruinous Castles whose names I know not because I had an ignorant guide But this I remember amongst these Rocks my belly was pinched and wearied was my body with the climbing of fastidious mountaines which bred no small griefe to my breast Yet notwithstanding of my distresse the remembrance of those sweet seasoned Songs of Arcadian Shepheards which pregnant Poets have so well penned did recreate my fatigated corps with many sugred suppositions These sterile bounds being past wee entred in the Easterne plaine of Morea called anciently Sparta where that sometimes famous City of Lacedemon flourished but now sacked and the lumpes of ruines and memory onely remains Marching thus we left Modena and Napoli on our right hand toward the sea side and on the sixt day at night we pitched our Tents in the dis-inhabited villages of Argo and Micene from the which unhappy Hellen was ravished This cursed custome of base prostitution is become so frequent that the greater sort of her mercinary sexe following her footsteps have out-gone her in their loathsom journeys of libidinous wayes shee being of such an infinite and voluptuous crew the arch-Mistresse and ring-leader to destruction did invite my Muse to inveigh against her lascivious immodesty as the inordinate patterne of all willing and licentious rapts I would thy beauty fairest of all Dames Had never caus'd the jealous Greekes to move Thy eyes from Greece to Illion cast flames And burnt that Trojan with adulterate love He captive like thy mercy came to prove And thou divorc'd was ravish'd with a toy He swore faire Helen was his dearest dove And
the last ruines of her desolation This Achaia is by some ignorant Geographers placed in the middle between Epire Thessaly and Peloponesus where contrariwise it is the Eastmost Province of Greece except Thrace lying along twixt it and Thessaly by the Sea side which part of the Country some late Authors have falsly named Migdonia which is a Province that lyeth North from Thracia East from Macedon and South from Misia having no affinitie with the Sea The chiefe Cities in Achaia are Neapolis Appollonia and Nicalidi where the famous Philosopher Aristotle was born Here is a huge and high Hill Athos containing in circuit 70 miles and as some affirme three days jonrney long whose shadow was absurdly said to have extended to Lemnos an Island lying neer the Carpathian Sea Achaia was formerly called Aylaida but now by the Turks Levienda Athos in Greeke is called Agros aeros to wit a holy Mountain the top of it is half a days journey broad and 14 Italian miles high There are 20 Monasteries upon it of Greekish Colieres a laborious kinde of silly Friers and kinde to strangers The chiefest of which Cloisters are called Victopodos and Agios laura being all of them strongly walled and fencible Upon the third day from Salonica wee arrived in the Road of Tenedos which is an Island in the Sea Pontus or Propontis It hath a City called Tenedos built by Tenes which is a gallant place having a Castle and a faire Haven for all sorts of Vessels it produceth good store of Wines and the best supposed to be in all the South-east parts of Europe or yet in Asia The Island is not big but exceeding fertile lying three miles from the place where Troy stood as Virgil reported Aeneid 2. Est in conspectu Tenedos notissima famainsula In sight of Troy a stately Isle I fand Shut up with Pontus from the Trojan land Whose beauteous bounds made me wish there to stay Or that I might transport the same away Else like Tritonean rude Propontick charms T' imbrace sweet Tenes always in mine arms And again Insula dives opum Priami dum regna manebant An Isle most rich in Silks delicious Wine When Priams Kingdome did in glory shine Where Ceres now and Bacchus love to dwell And Flora too in Berecinthiaes Cell In Tenedos I met by accident two French Merchants of Marseils intending for Constantinople who had lost their ship at Sio when they were busie at venerall rilting with their new elected Mistresses and for a second remedy were glad to come thither in a Turkish Carmoesalo The like of this I have seen fall out with Seafaring men Merchants and Passengers who buy sometimes their too much folly with too dear a repentance They and I resolving to view Troy did hire a Ianizary to be our conductor protector and a Greek to be our Interpreter Where when wee landed we saw here and there many relicks of old walls as wee travelled through these famous bounds And as wee were advanced toward the East part of Troy our Greek brought us to many Tombs which were mighty ruinous and pointed us particularly to the Tombs of Hector Ajax Achilles Troylus and many other valiant Champions with the Tombs also of Hecuba Cresseid and other Trojan Dames Well I wot I saw infinite old Sepulchers but for their particular names nomination of them I suspend neither could I believe my Interpreter sith it is more then 3000 and odde years ago that Troy was destroyed Here Tombs I view'd old Monuments of Times And fiery Trophyes fix'd for bloody crimes For which Achilles Ghost did sigh and say Curst be the hands that sakelesse Trojans slay But more fierce Ajax more Ulysses Horse That wrought griefs ruine Priam's last divorce And here inclos'd within these clods of dust All Asia's honour and cross'd Paris lust He shewed us also the ruines of King Priams palace and where Anchises the father of Aeneas dwelt At the North-east corner of Troy which is in sight of the Castles of Hellespont there is a gate yet standing and a piece of a reasonable high wall upon which I found three pieces of rusted money which afterward I gave two of them to the younger brethren of the Duke of Florence then studying in Pretolino The other being the fairest with a large picture on the one side I bestowed it at Aise in Provance upon a learned Scholler Master Strachon my Countrey man then Mathematician to the Duke of Guise who presently did propine his Lord and Prince with it Where the pride of Phrygia stood it is a most delectable plaine abounding now in Cornes Fruites and delicate Wines and may be called the garden of Natolia yet not populous for there are but only five scattered Villages in all that bounds The length of Troy hath bin as may be discerned by the fundamentall walls yet extant about twenty Italian miles which I reckon to be ten Scottish or fifteene English miles lying along the sea side betweene the three Papes of Ida and the furthest end Eastward of the River Simois whose breadth all the way hath not outstrip'd the fields above two miles The inhabitants of these five scattered Bourges therein are for the most part Greekes the rest are Iewes and Turkes And loe here is mine Effigie affixed with my Turkish habit my walking staff my Turbant upon my head even as I travelled in the bounds of Troy and so through all Turkey Before my face on the right hand standeth the Easterne and sole gate of that sometimes noble City with a piece of a high wall as yet undecayed And without this Port runneth the River Simois inclosing the old Grecian Campe downe to the Marine where it imbraceth the Sea Propontis A little below are bunches of grapes denoting the vinyards of this fructiferous place adioyning neare to the fragments and ruines of Priams Palace sirnamed Ilium And next to it a ravenous Eagle for so this part of Phrygia is full of them So beneath my feet lye the two Tombs of Priamus Hecuba his Queen And under them the incircling hills of Ida at the west South-west end of this once Regall Town and at my left hand the delicious and pleasant fields of Olives and Fig-trees where with the bowels of this famous soyle are inter larded And here this piece or portraiture deciphered the continuing discourse inlarging both mean manner Whence Princely Homer and that Mantuan born Sad Tragicktunes erect'd for Troy forlorn And sad Aeneas fled to the Affrick Coast Where Carthage groan'd to hear how Troy was lost But more kinde Dido when this wandring Prince Had left Numidia stole away from thence Did worser groan who with his shearing sword Her self she gor'd with many weeping word O dear Aeneas dear Trojan art thou gone And then she fell death swallowed up her mone They land at Cuma where Latinus King Did give Aeneas Lavinia with a Ring Where now in Latium that old Dardan
and Pigmalion the brother of Dido who built Carthage This seat giving way to the Persian Monarchie was about the overthrow of Darius beleagured by Alexander who had so much adoe with extraordinary expence of men money and great labour to conquer it being then separated from the mayne Continent by the Sea but now joyned to the firme Land and before you come to the City there lieth a great banke of sand where it is likely the Sea hath beene in Alexanders time Though now as time altereth every thing the Sea be fled from that place which maketh that ruinous Town seem more desolate At the breake of day I and certain Armenians went to visit this decayed Towne and found the most famous ruines here that the Word for memory can affoord and a Delicious incircling Harbour inclos'd within the middle of the Town fit to receive small Barks Frigots and Galleots the compassing fore-face whereof being all of foure squared Marble and Alablaster stones the most part of all which Houses have stood on pillars of the same stones the infinite number whereof may as yet be above and below the sands perspectively beheld There be onely some nineteene fire houses here which are Moores and is now under the Emeere of the Drusians who remayneth in Sydon The East part of this Country aboundeth in Balme Honey and Oile and was the Seat of Asher of whom Moses prophecied Deut. 33. 24. that he should dip his feet in Oile Here these Egyptian Moores for so they were first bred there brought us a pillar lying upon the ground of nine severall colours of Marble being one intire stone and the length of it was twenty two of my measure and eight in compasse Which said they was one of the Pillars that Sampson pulled downe upon the Philistims at the houre of his Death To whom I answered that Sampson died at Azath the furthest South-west part of Palestine where he bore down the House of Dagon upon the Philistims And I thinke the ancient Tyrians said I could not transport that Pillar so far hither But they the more constantly affirmed it and so did these Armenians that were with me confirme it also some of whom had been twice there before yet howsoever it was I brought home a pound weight of it and presented the half thereof to King Iames of blessed Memory Here by accident in returning back to the Caravan I met with an English Factor named Master Brockesse who then remayned at Sydon eighteene miles from this place and had beene down at Acre about some negotiations Who indeed eftsoons and kindly tooke mee into a Moorish House by the Sea side and one of his acquaintance where instantly wee swallowed downe such joviall and deep carouses of Leatick Wine that both hee and I were almost fastned in the last plunge of understanding Yet neverthelesse he conveyed me backe to my company and put me safe into the hands of the Caravan with whom afterwards I diverse times met with here at London to whose kindnesse I celebrate the memory of these lines But now the Sunne discovering the earth and the night banished to the inferiour world we were all encouraged for the light of the day lends comfort The Captaine sending backe that false Iudas for so was hee sworne to do sent a post to Tyrus for a new guide who came forthwith and brought us in our way to Mount Carmell for by it we behoved to go and in our way we met with the desolate Towne of Sarepta nigh thereunto adjoyning where Elias was sustained in a great famine by a Widdow whose sonne he raised from death Great are the mercies of God for as hee hath made man an excellent creature so hath he also indued him with two great powers in his minde The one a wise power of understanding by which he penetrateth into the knowledge of things the other a strong power of dexterous resolving whereby he executeth things well understood for we having judged the worst resolved the best and by his Almighty providence were freed from that apparent danger although the former dayes whoredome and unnaturall vices deserved a just punishment This I intimate to all Travelers in generall that if they would that God should further them in their attempts blesse their voyages and grant them a safe returne to their native Countries without the which what contentment have they for all their pains that they would constantly refraine from whoredome drunkennesse and too much familiarity with strangers For a Traveller that is not temperate and circumspect in all his actions although he were headed like that Herculean Serpent Hydra yet it is impossible he can returne in safety from danger of the Turkes Arabs Moors wild beasts the deadly operative extremities of heat hunger thirst and cold Approaching to Moun● Carmell and leaving it upon our right hand betweene us and the Marine coast I beheld a farre off upon the top of the hill the place where Elias ascended to Hea●en when hee left his Cloake behind him to Elizeus his Disciple This mountaine is foure miles of length lying South and North the North end bordering with the Sea neare to Acre called anciently Ptolomaeis and the South end joyning with the borders of Samaria through the which confine we past Leaving Samaria on our left hand wee entred into a faire Plaine adorned with fruitfull Trees and all other ornaments that pleasant fields afford but no Village wee saw Marching thus about the declining of the Sunne from the Meridian wee came in sight of two hundred Pavillians all pitched in rankes yeelding the prospect of a little City by a brooke side of water which being perceived the Captaine began to censure what they might bee and immediately there came riding towards us sixe naked fellowes well mounted on Arabian Geldings who demanded what wee were and whither we were bound with such a multitude and if there were any Franks of Christendome in our company To whom the Ianisaries replyed we were purposed to Ierusalem and that there was but one Franke with them Upon the which they presently sought mee demanding Caffar Caffar that was tribute for my head caused me perforce notwithstanding of the resisting Caravan and Ianisaries to pay them presently for my life seven Chickens of Gold seven times nine shillings sterling And this is because sayd they our King is resident in these Tents and therefore we haue tripled his tribute And yet were they discontented because there were no moe Franks in our company for from the Armenians they could not nor would not seeke any tribute because they were tributary slaves and subjects to the great Turke neithere also of any other Christians borne in his dominions when they shall happen to fall into their hands They returning backe to their Prince with the malediction of my heart and the sorrow of a Pilgrimes purse we marching on in our way that day wee travelled above thirty foure miles and pitched
left arme his body fast to the Rock keeping strongly my right shoulder to the same place For I could not have saved my selfe and letting him fall but he would have caught me head-long with him over the Rock And yet the Germans cried still to me Lascia ti quel furfanto cascar alla fondo conil Diavolo esalva caro fratello la vita vostra viz. Let that Villaine fall to the ground with the Divell and save O deare brother your own life But I neither would nor durst at last his feare by my incouragement having left him I suffered him to slide s●ftly down between my arme and the Ro●k to the solid path Where by and by hee fell downe upon his knees and gave me a thousand blessings vowing for this hee would do me a great good deed before I left Ierusalem At last towards the afternoon wee safely arrived at the foot of the Mountaine and having saluted the Guardian and all the rest who then were ready to take journey the Frier told his Reverence how I had saved his life Whereupon the Guardian and the other Friers did imbrace mee kindly in their arms giving mee many earnest and loving thanks And now the Souldiers and we being advanced in our Way as wee returned to Ierusalem wee marched by an old Ruinous Abbey where say they Saint Ierome dwelt and was fed there by wilde Lions Having travailed sore and hard that afternoone wee arrived at Ierusalem an houre within night for the Gate was kept open a purpose for us and our Guard and entring our Monastery wee supped and rested our selves till midnight having marched that halfe day more then 34 miles A little before midnight the Guardian and the Friers were making themselves ready to go with us to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre called Sancto Salvatore where we were to stay Good-friday and Saturday and Easter-Sunday till mid-night They tooke their Cooke with them also to dresse our Diet carrying Wine Bread Fishes and Fruits hither in abundance Mean while a Iew the Trench-man of the Turkish Sanzacke came to the Monastery and received from every one of us Pilgrimes first two Chickeens of Gold for our severall heads and entry at Ierusalem and then nine Chickeens a piece for our in going to the Holy Grave and a Chickeen of gold a man to himselfe the Iew as being due to his place Thus was there twelve Chickeens from each of us dispatched for the Turke And last one and all of us behoved to give to the Guardian two Chickeens also for the Waxe Candles and Fooleries he was to spend in their idle and superstitious Ceremonies these three aforesaid nights which amounted in all to every one of us to fourteen Chickeens of gold six pounds six shillings sterling So that in the whole from the six Germans foure Frenchmen and nine commercing Franks in Cyprus and Syria Venetians and Ragusans and from my selfe the summe arose for this nights labour to a hundred and twenty six pounds sterling This done and at full mid-night wee came to the Church where wee found twelve Venerable like Turkes readie to receive us sitting in the Porch without the Doore who forthwith opened at randon the two great Brazen halfes of the Doore and received us very respectively We being within the doore made fast and the Turks returned to the Castle the first place of any note wee saw was the place of Unction which is a foure squared stone inclosed about with an iron Revele on which say they the dead body of our Saviour lay and was imbalmed after hee was taken from the Crosse whiles Ioseph of Arimathea was preparing that new Sepulcher for him wherein never man lay from thence wee came to the holy Grave Leaving Mount Calvary on our right hand toward the East end of the Church for they are both contained within this glorious edifice The Holy Grave is covered with a little Chappell standing within a round Quiere in the west end of the Church It hath two low and narrow entries as wee entred the first doore three after three and our shooes cast off for these two roomes are wondrous little the Guardiano fell downe ingenochiato and kissed a stone whereupon hee said the Angell stood when Mary Magdalen came to the Sepulchre to know if Christ was risen on the third day as he promised And within the entry of the second doore wee saw the place where Christ our Messias was buried and prostrating our selves in great humility every man according to his Religion offered up his prayers to God The Sepulcher it selfe is eight foote and a halfe in length and advanced about three foote in height from the ground and three foote five inches broad being covered with a faire Marble stone of white colour In this Chappell and ab●ut it I meane without the utter sides of it and the inward incirclings of the compassing Quiere there are alwayes burning above fifty Lampes of oyle maintained by Christian Princes who stand most of them within incircling bands of pure Gold which is exceeding sumptuous having the names of those who sent or gave them ingraven upon the upper edges of the round circles each of them having three degrees and each degree depending upon another with supporters of pure Gold rich and glorious The fairest whereof was sent thither by King Iohn of England whereon I saw his Name his Title and Crowne curiously indented I demanded the Guardiano if any part of the Tombe was here yet extant who replied there was but because said he Christians resorting thither being devoutly moved with affection to the place carried away a good part thereof which caused S. Helen inclose it under this stone whereby some relicts of it should alwayes remaine I make no doubt but that same place is Golgotha where the holy Grave was as may appeare by the distance betweene Mount Calvary and this sacred Monument which extendeth to forty of my paces This Chappell is outwardly decored with 15 coupell of Marble Pillars and of 22 foote high and above the upper coverture of the same Chappell there is a little six-angled Turret made of Cedar wood covered with Lead and beautified with sixe small Columnes of the same tree The chappell it selfe standeth in a demicircle or halfe Moone having the little doore or entry looking East to the great body of the Church and to Mount Calvary being opp●site to many other venerable monuments of memorable majesties The forme of the Quier wherein it standeth is like unto the ancient Rotundo in Rome but a great deale higher and larger having two gorgeous Galleries one above another and adorned with magnificent Columnes being open at the top with a large round which yeeldeth to the heavens the prospect of that most sacred place In which second Gallery we strangers reposed all these three nights we remayned there whence wee had the full prospect of all the spacious Church and all the Orientall people were there at this great
I prostrate say doe commaund me to present the perfect passage thereof vnto your Royall Religious consrderation Sufficient Certificates and infallible approbations are annexed to the Tragicall discourse it selfe and it also humbly bequeathing all unto your Princely Piety and Pitty to commiserate both my case and cause Wherefore and as duty bindeth I shall ever beseech God to preserve your Royall Raigne from wicked Achitophells to guard your Sacred person with Heavenly Angels and to guid your Monarchicke State with faithful and Religious Counsellors AMEN Your Majesties most humble and most obedient Subject and Servant William Lithgow Lithgowes 19 years Travaile The first Part. SEe Rome discover'd Italy made plaine The Roman Library a golden gaine Hunns old Parthenope with Venice met And strong Brundusium in Ottranto set Times rich Antiquities displayd abroad On circling Cume Avernus lying odde And Lorets Chappell foure times bin transported On Angels backs from Nazareth detorted Where for discourse on this false forged Lady To tend you with inveiglins shall be ready Thus piece and piece from soyle to soyle I 'le goe And now beginne the end will deeper grow IT was a saying amongst the Ancients that thrice happy and blest was that Kingdome when Old Men boresway and ruled the State and Young Men travailed abroad The first by long experience prudently to execute Judgement and the later by sight and knowledge of forraine soyles and Lawes growing more judicious might when come to Age and Preferment the more facily and dexteriously exhibite Justice at home But what shall I say to these moderne and dissolute times when by the contrary meanes Travaile is slighted Government abused insinuating homlings thrust in high Offices incapable of them being pratling Parrots and sounding Cymballs who convert sound Judgement and Justice to their owne greedy respects and selfe mercinary ends turning their chiefest felicity to avaritious ambition and vaine-glory and their sweetest fortunes to their belly and their backe O miserable and effeminate age when vertue by most men is despised and neglected and sensuall vice every where exalted Nay Ruffian Pandors by hopefull youth and prodigall Gallants are now Cloathed Coatched and richly rewarded whilst best merits and highest deserts of rarest Spirits are neither looked to set by nor regarded And for approbation and examples sake of their valorous designes let them thinke upon latter passages not worthy to be thought upon and they will finde this future Caveat to stand needfull Hoec olim meminisse juvabit So likewise now every Capri-cullion from Caesar to the Pascorell can crowd and chaw from his warbling waspishnesse this stinging censure of absurd untruth that Travellers and Poets may lye and lye by authority which they themselves performe at home without leave By which traditionall concession I being absolue in the first and borne to the Muses as to the World a mungrill to both may have a lawfull unlawfull liberty assigned Any marvaile if men in this kind be so injuriously censured when the very Gospell it selfe by per●idious Atheists Formalists Sophisters Romish-Rabines Nullifidians and Schismaticall Sectaries is quartered mangled and rejected such be the Satanicall opinions of this Hell-borne age whose confused conceites blasphemies incredulities and imaginary devisions have shamefully stained the better part of this now best World Nay good and godly Kings so pricked at and wounded by the viperous murmurings of miscreant villaines as though their Royall and just lives were the meere inordinate paternes of all impiety and lewdnes Sith therefore the sacred Scriptures the gods of the earth Ecclesiasticke columes yea the name and fame of the most righteous alive be thus diversly taxed and vituperously calumniated can prevention in me escape the lawlesse horrour of this impoysoned fury No I have had already the assault and newly prepared patience proofe to receive more wrought by the piercing hammer of nineteene winters as many Summers dear bought toyle Let venome-thundring-Criticks contumeliously carpe infernall fire-brand Cerberus barke and the Hell-prepared off scourings of true religion gnashing grudge I have a heart can smile at their backe-biting Malice a judgement to discerne such wormish waspes and if present the weight of understanding truth to confound their blinde absurdities with reason As for Chambercomplements whose vast insides like to the vaults of wasting Strombolo are become thred-beare having their outsides onely adorned with rich ornaments Such serving Cyphers cypher childish censures And shallowscal-patch'd pates have fore-bald tonsures Yet touch a C. flat in his face he 'le start As though a Dame had grac'd him with a Whose wrings winkes whose curious smiles and words And scraping feete lost blandement affords Whence pride and lust become two servile Mineons To top his thoughts with false and fond opinions Then happy they who least frequent a Court Nor in the fields of flattery love to sport To such bellowing Caves winded with the borrowed rags of patch'd up Comedies clouted complements stolne phrases and lip-licked labours of Lampe-living spirits to such hollow Tombes I say a tush for their kindnesse I justly hold it a manifest idolatry to honour or do homage to any of them And this much for the misconstruous lackjudgment of emulating Clouds No Courtiers And as concerning the impostrate quagmires of this abortive Age wherein so many Simonaicall Matchevilians mercinary parasites and arch-betraying Sicophants live vindicating themselves excessively upon the advantage of time I insufficient I to dive into such bottomlesse businesses bequeath them onely to their owne ●●pining Consciences just trials and ignominious rewards To satisfie the World in my behalfe as touching my Travells I sincerely protest that neither Ambition too much Curiosity nor any reputation I ever sought from the bubling breath of breathlesse man whose defective censure inclineth as instigation or partiality moveth his weake and variable opinion did expose me to such long perigrinations and dangerous adventures past But the proceeding whereof thousands conjecture the cause as many the manner tenne thousand thousands the effect The condition reserved I partly forbeare to penetrate in that undeserued Dalida wrong and reconciled times pleading desistance moderate discretion inserteth silent patience The mansuet Cup the gods consuetly drunke In me involv'd strait hony-gald it sunke That sweet Ambrosian Nectar soundly wrapt In my lockt Closet suspitious Envy trapt And fierce-ey'd Iealousie wing'd with wind Pierc'd staring Argos turn'd his hundred blind Mycene fancy fraught Lusts fond all armes Cros'deye-stard Sparta rapt with Phrygian charmes And teare-rent Sophyre Synon-like betrai'd What votall oathes loves sterne fort ne're bewraid But high bred drifts the stormy Fates grim night And gloomy Hellespont rob'd Heroes right As Illions destiny forc'd Numidias Queene To gore a Scepter a Diadem in teene So haplesse I belov'd O passion strange May as amaz'd admire that time this change I chang'd a Wolfe once for a Tusked Bore And changing Beast for Beast triumph'd the more Straind to assume in counter cumbiat breath A dying life revert in
of the reformed Order 〈◊〉 S. Francis for begetting fifteene young Noble Nunnes ●ith child and all within one yeare he being also their ●●ther Confessor Whereat I sprung forward through 〈◊〉 throng and my friend followed me and came just to 〈◊〉 pillar as the halfe of his body and right arme fell flat●●gs in the fire the Frier was forty sixe yeares old and had bin Confessor of th●t 〈◊〉 of 〈…〉 yeares Most of th●se young Nunnes were Senators daughters and two of them were onely come in to learne vertue and yet fell in the midst of vice These fifteene with Child were all recald 〈…〉 their fathers Pallaces the Lady Prioresse and the rest of her 〈◊〉 crew were banished for ever from the precincts of Venice The Monastery was razed to the ground their Rents were allowed to be bestowed upon poore families and distressed age and their Church 〈◊〉 bee converted to an Hospitall Most part of all which M. 〈◊〉 and I saw before ever we either eate dranke or ●ooke our lodging in Venice And I cannot forget how after all this wee being in hungred and also 〈◊〉 tumbled in by chance All 〈…〉 the greatest 〈◊〉 in all Venice neere to which the Friars bones were 〈◊〉 burning And calling for a Chamber wee were nobly and richly served After dinner they laid up our budgets and our burthens and abroad went we to see the 〈◊〉 Night come wee sup'd and sup'd alone the 〈…〉 I begun to remarke the grandeur of the Inne and 〈◊〉 was time that we were gone I demanded our 〈◊〉 what was to pay hee answered Vn s●udo all 〈◊〉 par 〈◊〉 ripasto a Crowne the dyet for each of us being ten Iule●s or five shillings 〈◊〉 Mr. Arthur looked uppon me and I laugh'd 〈…〉 a word our dinner 〈…〉 foure Crownes whereat my companion being discontented ●ad the Divell be in the Friars ballocks for wee had paid soundly for his Leachery many like deaths 〈…〉 causes and worser have I seene in all my three 〈◊〉 if time could permit me to 〈◊〉 them But from this thou mayst play the learned Geometrician till 〈◊〉 findest more and opportunity give thee occasion Cingitur urbs Venetum pelago ditissima nummis This Towne most rich to dare the Maine is shut In Neptunes bosome and sea-streeted cu● Venice is a Garden of riches and wordly pleasures the chiefe flowre of Common-weales and the perfect mirr●ur of civill and politicke Governement This sequestrat City is situate in the bosome of Neptune and divided from the world with a part of his maine body which invironeth the Iland The Common-we●lth of Venice containeth Marcha del Trevisa which lyeth in Lombardy containing these Cities Trevisa Padua Vincenza Verona Brisc●a the second City for bignesse and beauty in all Lombardy Ber●●mo Chizza and Rovigno Friuli formerly called Fo●●m Iulij lyeth in the straight betweene the East end of the ●lpes and the sea Adriaticke in length fifty in breadth forty miles It hath beene often subject to the vicissitude of ●ortune The chiefe towne is Treista in the bottome of 〈◊〉 gulfe and Palma lately built by the Venetians 158● ●eing the most impregnable and best fortified towne in ●●aly Furili was a Dukedome founded by the Lombards 〈◊〉 the beginning of the Venetian Common-wealth After●ard Luitprandus one of the Dukes envying the encrease of the dominion of Venice made war against them which ended in the losse of his owne country The rest bee Istria a part of Dalmatia the Ilands of Candy Corfue Zante ●ephalonia Serigo Tino Valdi Campare Lesina and o●her of lesser note The Venetians howsoever of old they have bin great ●arriers they are now more desirous to keepe then in●arge their Dominions and that by presents and money rather than by the sword of true valour so that whatsoever they loose by battell it is observed they recover againe by treaties The Venetians are said to have discended of the Hennets in Asia lesser who assisting the Trojans and Troy being lost their King Pterilimene slaine they fled away with Antenor and ariving in this part of Italy seated themselves till the report of the Hunnes designe against Italy made them avoyding the storme before it fell to draw into these Ilands and Marishes where now it standeth It was first founded and begun Anno. 411. March 25. being distant from the maine land five miles and defended against the fury of the sea by the banke extending to fifty miles in length through which in eight places there is passage broken for small boates but no way for vessels of any burthen save at Malamucco and the Castle of Lio Yea and so dangerous that there is neither out-going nor in-comming without a Pylot which maketh the City unconquerable This City is seven miles in compasse and from so base an abject beginning it is growne as it were to bee the chiefe bulwarke of Europe The Duke of this Adriaticke Queene espouseth the sea every Ascension day by casting a golden ring into it Which stu●titious ceremony by Pope Alexander the third was granted when hee fled to Venice for succour being persecuted by Fredericke Barbarossa And the Venetians vanquishing Otho the Emperours sonne restored the Pope and for a reward was honoured with this espousall The length of the Territory of Venice in Lombardy lying along the foote and South side of the Alpes amounteth to sixe score five miles the breadth whereof in the plan●re is narrow but stripeth larger among the hills and lakes and very populous The applauding Italian saith that Europe is the head of the World Italy the face of Europe and Venice the eye of Italy and indeed it is the strongest and most active part of that powerfull body Whereby it would appeare that in the last subversion of the latter Monarchy the Romane Genius made a Pythagoricall transmigration into Venic● whose peace hath procured the plenty and whose Warres the peace of Christendome The Lawes of this City permit not the younger sonnes of the best Gentry to marry least the number increasing should deminish the dignity yet neverthelesse they permit them unlawfull pleasures and for their sakes allow publicke stewes The Iewes here and in Rome weare red and yellow hats for notice sake to distinguish them from others which necessary custome would to God were enjoyned to all the Papists here in England so should we easily discerne them from the true Christians And finally to discourse upon the provision of their magnificent Arsenall Artillery Munition and Armor the devision of streetes with channels the innumerable bridges of stone and timber their accustomable kind of living apparrell curtesies and conventions and finally the glory of Gallants Gal●eries Gallies Galleasses and Galliouns were a thing impossible for me briefly to relate Wherefore since the situation thereof and the decorements of their beautifull Palaces are so well knowne and their generall Customes by the better sort I desist concluding thus this incomparable mansion is the onely Paragon of all Cities in
liberty and freedome which being done and he gone under my hand before divers Greekes I subscribed her libertie and hired her in the same Taverne for a yeare taking nothing from her for as little had she to give me except many blessings and thankefull prayers This French Gunner was a Papist and here you may behold the dregs of his devotion and what seven nights leachery cost him you may cast up the reckoning of 36 Duckets In Constantinople there have happened many fearefull fires which often have consumed to ashes the most part of the rarest Monuments there and the beauty of infinite Palaces as Zonoras the Constantinopolitan Historiographer in his Histories mentioneth And now lately in the yeare 1607. October 14. there were burned above 3000. houses of which I saw a number of ruines as yet unrepaired It is subject also to divers Earth-quakes which have often subverted the Towers Houses Churches and Walles of the City to the ground Especially in the yeare 1509 in the raigne of Bajazeth the ninth Emperour of the Turkes in which time more then 13000. persons were all smothered and dead and laid up in heapes unburied And commonly every third yeare the pestilence is exceeding great in that City and after such an odious manner that those who are infected before they die have the halfe of their one side rot and fall away so that you may easily discerne the whole intrailes of their bowels It is not licentiated here nor else where in all Turkie that any Christian should enter in their Moskies or Churches without the conduct of a Ianizary the tryall whereof I had when I viewed that glorious and great Church of Sancta Sophia once the beauty and ornament of all Europe and is now the chiefe place to which the Great Turke or Emperour goeth every Fryday their Sabb●th day to do his devotion being accompanied with 3000 Ianizaries besides Bashawes Chawses and Hagars Truly I may say of Constantinople as I said once of the World in the Lamentado of my second Pilgrimage A painted Whoore the mask of deadly sin Sweet fair without and stinking foul within For indeed outwardly it hath the fairest shew and inwardly in the streets being narrow and most part covered the filthiest and deformed buildings in the world the reason of its beauty is because being situate on moderate prospective heights the universall tectures a far off yield a delectable shew the covertures being erected like the backe of a Coach after the Italian fashion with gutterd tile But being entred within there is nothing but a stinking deformity and a lothsome contrived place without either internall domestick furniture or externall decorements of Fabricks palatiatly extended Notwithstanding that for its situation the delicious wines and fruits the temperate climate the fertile circumjacent fields and for the Sea Hellespont and pleasant Asia on the other side it may truly be called the Paradice of the earth Perah is over against Constantinople called of old Cornubizantii but by the Turkes Galata being both a quarter of a mile distant and the Thraick Bosphore dividing the two It is the place at which Christian Ships touch and where the Ambassadours of Christendome lie The number of the Christian Ambassadours that then lay there and now do were these first the Roman Emperours then the French thirdly the English fourthly the Venetian and lastly the Holland Ambassadours with whom often for discourses I was familiar although with Noble Sir Thomas Glover I was still domestick for twelve weeks whose Secretary for that time was my Countriman Mr. Iames Rollock who now as I take it is resident in Striveling he was the last Scotsman I saw till my returne to Malta after my departure from Constantinople From thence I went to the black Sea but commonly Mare Euxinum where I saw Pompeyes Pillar of Marble standing neer the shoare upon a rocky Island and not far from thence is a Lanthorne higher then any Steeple whereon there is a pan full of liquour that burneth every night to give warning unto ships how neer they come the shore It is not much unlike these Lanthornes of Ligorne and Genua The water of this Sea is never a whit blacker then other Seas but it is called blacke in respect of the dangerous events in darke and tempestuous nights which happen there and because of the Rockes and Sands which lye a great way from the main shore upon which many vessels many times are cast away The blacke Sea is not farre from Galata for I both went and returned in one day being forty miles out and in For I went by boate and not by land through the pleasant Euripus that runneth between the Euxine Sea and Hellespont And by the way I cannot but regrate the great losse Sir Thomas Glover received by the Duke of Moldavia who chargeably entertained him two yeares in his house and furnished him with great monies and other necessaries fit for his eminency This Duke or Prince of Bugdonia was derpaved of his Principalities by Achmet and fled hither to the Christian Ambassadours for reliefe To whom when all the rest had refus'd acceptance only Noble Sir Thomas received him maintaining him and seriously wrought with the Grand Signior and his Counsell to have had him restored againe to his Lands but could not prevaile In the end Sir Thomas Glovers five yeares time of Ambassadry being expired and the Duke hearing privately that Sir Paul Pinder was to come in his place as indeed he came too soone this Moldavian Prince stole earely away in the morning over to Constantinople and long ere midday turn'd Turke and was circumcised contenting himselfe onely for all his great Dukedome with a Palace and a yearely pension of twelve thousand Chickens of Gold during his life Which when we heard the Ambassadour and we were all amazed and discontented He was indebted to the Ambassadour above 15 thousand Chickens of Gold yet ere my leaving Galata I went twice over with Sir Thomas and saw him and found him attended with a number of Turkes who when he saw me took me kindly by the hand for wee had bin two moneths familiar in the Ambassadors house before The English Ambassador within halfe a yeare recovered the halfe of his moneys the other halfe he was forced to forgoe for divers importunate respects Nay I must say one thing more of this Knight hee relieved more slaves from the Galleys payd their ransomes and sent them home freely to their Christian stations and kept a better house than any Ambassadour did that ever lay at Constantinople or ever shall to the worlds end His mother was a Polonian who comming from Dansick to London was delivered of him upon the Sea Afterward he was brought up at Constantinople from a boy and spoke and wrot the Slavonian Tongue perfectly And thence returning for London he was the first Ambassadour King Iames of blessed Memory sent ●o Constantinople after his comming to the Crowne of England And thus
at a Village called Adoash being composed of threescore Moorish and Arabian Houses standing in a fruitfull and delicate Plaine and garnished with Olive Date and Figge-trees which were both pleasant and profitable where we found also good Hearbs to eate and abundance of Water to drinke and also to fill our emptied bottles As wee lay downe to sleepe after a hungry supper on the hard ground and our guard watching us that same King of the Ar●bians came a little before mid-night with twenty four wel horsed Runagates and naked Courtiers being armed with bowes and arrowes and halfe-pikes pointed at both ends with hard Steele and asked for the Caravan who presently awoke and went to salute him laying his hand on his breast bowed his head very low which is the usuall courtesie amongst the Infidels and Christians in these parts For they never uncover their heads to any man and after some short parley they sate all downe on the grasse The Caravan presented his rude like maiesty with water bread hearbes figs garlike and such things as he had As they were thus merry at this poore banquet the awfull King tooke the Oath of our Conductor if there were any more Franks there then I and he having sworne the truth the King by a malignant informer incontinently caused mee to bee brought before him and staring mee in the face asked my Interpreter where were my companions Who replyed I had none then said hee tell that dogge or Elishole hee must acknowledge me with five peeces of gold more otherwise making a signe to his owne throate I shall cut off his head because said he I will not loose this nights travell for nothing The which I being informed and knowing that by no condition there was resistance against such a scelerate Prince gave it him forth of mine owne hand having consulted with my Captaine before and that presently with a halfe smiling countenance which hee remarking told the rest it seemed I gave it with a good heart and a cheerefull gesture and to recompence my outward behaviour he drunke a great draught of water to me thinking thereby he had done mee more honour then all the Chickens of gold I gave him now and in the morning would doe him profit or pleasure pleasure they could doe him none for they were unlawfully and dishonestly got and too delivered from the inward sorrow of my sighing soule and no wonder having spent two yeares great charges in Turkey before this time but that I should have beene exceeding penurious of money and thereupon desolate of reliefe and comfort Truely this was one of the greatest tributes I payed for one dayes journey that I had in all my voyage in Asia There are two Kings in Arabia the one who liveth on Euphrates the desarts of Mesopotamia sometimes in Arabia Felix and in some parts of Syria And the other was hee to whom I paid this money wandereth with his Tribes Tents and Bestiall one while in Arabia Petrea and Deserta and sometimes in the Holy Land as hee findeth good pastorage and fresh Fountaines These two Kings are mortall enemies and if by accident they meete they fight most cruelly bringing dammage rapine and destruction to themselves and their followers for it is a difficult thing in them to dominate their inordinate passions being untamed Savages and misregarders of civility who continually contend to corroborate the malignity of their dispositions with bloody and inhumane interprises And yet al the rest of that night after his returne from us we still expected some treacherous surprise which made our Souldiers stand stoutly on their guard and we Pilgrims to our vigilant and naked defence For the Turkes will not suffer Christians to carry weapons in al these Dominions neither any where where they command And for all this great tribute and nights danger of my life here was my present resolution The more I am beset with dreadfull snares Begirded round in shelfie gulfes of wracke And shipbroke left on rockes of deepe despaires Where helples care with tort ' ring thoughts me racke Then stoutly stand I hoping for the end That time will change and God will better send And now by the way I recall the aforesaid Turke the master of the Mule that carried my provision and on whom in the journey I had bestowed the most part of my Tobacco When I had no more to give him and hee suspecting the contrary was councelled bee his associats to beate me soundly and dismount my Victuals and Water from the Mules backe till I propined him with the rest Which intention being by me understood I forthwith run to the Caravan and complained whereupon my friend was bravely belaboured with a cudgel and my better safety procured Thus was his former shew of love quickly expelled and an inward grudge suddenly conceived for it was the smoak and not my self he respected Loves whirling fancies mortals fondly feed As marish roots dissolve even as they breed An humane creature inhumanely taught Is worser given to ill than evill fraught Things in themselves be not so bad as ill The cause exeem'd corruption hath free will Mans frail affection is a cloudy mist Whose vapours fall and fogge as passions list Bad counsell's worse than nature ill applies Weak judgement duls when fear in reason flies Thus sad eclips'd the dark eclipsed Moon Did change ere mine eclipsed light was won At last the Sun-shine of my silver day Came crawling on as Snails advance the way The next morning when the hopefull Aurore had foreshown the burning birth of glassie Thetis and that Orient Majesty arising to overcirculate the earth then marcht we along in our way and before mid-day pitched our Haire-cloth Tents round about Iacobs Well neere the decayed City of Sychar in Samaria This Province of Samaria is now for the most part quite destroyed and over-whelmed with Mountains of sand wee found this ancient Well so wondrous deep that scarcely all our ropes could sinke our bucket in the water The tast whereof was wondrous cold and sweet and for Iacobs sake the whole number of us drunk more of it then need required The fiery face of Phaebus declining to the West we marched through a part of the fields of Basan of which Og was last King a man of such a large proportion that his bed being made of iron was nine Cubits long and foure broad and all that afternoon we had exceeding pleasant travelling and at night we incamped by Lydda on the fields Lydda is not above ten miles from the ruinous Towne of Caesarea by the Sea side and is now called by the Turks and Moores Alferron being a Village only of sixteen Moorish Houses Here Peter healed the man sick of the palsie The Towns situated by the Sea side in Phoenicia Palestine and Iudea are these Sydon which standeth in the Borders of Zebulon and Nephtalim or Phoenicia being a goodly City and well peopled and is governed by the Emeere or Prince