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A28496 Irelands naturall history being a true and ample description of its situation, greatness, shape, and nature, of its hills, woods, heaths, bogs, of its fruitfull parts, and profitable grounds : with the severall ways of manuring and improving the same : with its heads or promontories, harbours, roads, and bays, of its springs, and fountains, brooks, rivers, loghs, of its metalls, mineralls, free-stone, marble, sea-coal, turf, and other things that are taken out of the ground : and lastly of the nature and temperature of its air and season, and what diseases it is free from or subject unto : conducing to the advancement of navigation, husbandry, and other profitable arts and professions / written by Gerald Boate ; and now published by Samuell Hartlib for the common good of Ireland and more especially for the benefit of the adventurers and planters therein. Boate, Gerard, 1604-1650.; Hartlib, Samuel, d. 1662. 1657 (1657) Wing B3373; ESTC R27215 105,129 208

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East-side and the North-side of the coast There be also divers Rocks that alwayes stand above water the which as they are dangerous in the dark night and in misty weather so at other times they are rather profitable than hurtful forasmuch as they serve the Sea-faring men for Sea-marks and help them to discern the situation and distances of the coasts wherefore also the most part of them have received peculiar and proper names The principall of this whole number is the Tuskar a great black smooth Rock of fashion like unto a ship turned the upside downwards but as big again lying South-Eastwards from the point of Greenore the space of three miles To the South West of the Tuskar a great way and about a mile and a half from the bigger of the Saltees is the Rock Kinbeg To the North-East of the Saltees stand two Rocks not far the one from the other of which the one of its situation is called North-Rock the Southermost The Tuns To the East of these two and about three miles from the point of Carnarord lyeth Black-Rock being clean of all sides so as ships may freely sail round about it without any fear or danger A mile or two to the North of Lambry lyeth a great Rock called Rock Abill about which ships may sail of all sides Two miles beyond the North-point of the Haven of Strangford are two great Rocks the one called North-Rock and the other distant two miles from it to the South South-Rock The North-Rock is a number of Rocks lying close together divers whereof are covered at high-water From the end of these two shoot out riffes of foul and rocky-ground but betwixt them goeth a broad clean and deep chanel through which all manner of ships even the biggest may pass Six or seven miles to the North of the Bay of Knockfergus and three miles from the land are the Nine Mayds being great Rocks that lye but a little above the water or low Rocky-Iles with a great number of blind Rocks about the same so as ships may come no nearer to them than within five or six mile Of the same kind of low Rocks or little Rocky-Ilands are also those who are called Eneste●hull-Ilands being situated before the most Northerly-point of Ireland betwixt Lough-Foile and Lough-Suillie Sect. 6. Rocks in the Irish-sea upon the Western and the Southern-coast Near the Ilands of Aran upon the North-West-coast of Ireland lye severall high Rocks called the Stags of Aran and such other Rocks called the Stags of Broad-haven lye three or four miles from the Northern-point of Broad-haven Three miles to the North-west of Akill-head lyeth Black-rock a great high and black Rock with severall other Rocks near unto it On the North-side and West-side of the Ilands Blaskes lying over against the most Westerly-point of Ireland are severall great Rocks some whereof are called the Horses and others the Bucks Seven or eight Leagues to the South of Blaskes lye three great Rocks called the Skellighs the Easterliest about three miles and the Westerliest six or seven miles from the Land the which to those that come from the South when first they begin to see them resemble the Sails of Ships Without the Head of Dorses lye three other great Rocks whereof the uttermost or the most Westerly is called the Bull the middlemost the Cow and the third the Calf being clean round about so as without any danger one may sail between them Five or six miles West and by South of the Head of Clare lyeth a high steep Rock alone in the sea called Fastney the which at the first appearing looketh like the sayl of a ship Two or three miles to the East of Baltimore and a mile or two from the land lye five or six high steep Rocks called the Stags as those of Aran and Broad-haven to those that come from the East along the land when first they begin to have them in sight they resemble some Spires or Pointed-steeples standing together Two miles Eastwards from the mouth of the Haven of Kinsale lye two great black Rocks the one somwhat farther from the land than the other There lie also severall Rocks neer the little Ilands of Dalkee and Irelands-Eye the one situated before the North-point and the other before the South-point of the Bay of Dublin as heretofore we have shewed Likewise on both ends of the I le of Lambey half way betwixt the same Iland and Tredagh-haven close by the Land near the Iland Ranghlins near Skires Portrush and in severall other places but the principal and most considerable are those whereof we have spoken CHAP. VI. Of the nature of the Irish-sea and of the Tides which go in the same Sect. 1. The Irish-sea not so tempestuous as it is bruited to be THat part of the Irish-sea which divideth Ireland from Great-Britain is very much defamed both by Antient and Modern Writers in regard of its boysterousness and tempestuousness as if it were more subject to storms and raging weather than any other and consequently not to be passed without very great danger Mare quod Hiberniam Britanniam interluit undosum inquietumque toto in anno non nisi paucis diebus est navigabile That is The Sea which passeth betwixt Ireland and Britain is boysterous and restless so as but few dayes in the year ships can go upon it saith Solinus With whom Giraldus who several times went to and fro betwixt England and Ireland fully agreeth writing in this manner Hibernicum Mare concurrentibus fluctibus undosissimum fere semper est inquietum it a ut vix etiam aestivo tempore paucis diebus se navigantibus tranquillum praebeat That is The Irish-sea being very boysterous through the concourse of the waves is almost alwayes restless so as even in the summer-time it is hardly for a few dayes quiet enough to be sayled upon Likewise also Camden and Speed give unto this sea the surnames of Boysterous and Tempestuous Yea it is a common Proverb in England As unquiet as the Irish-sea Nevertheless it is nothing so bad as they make it and the words of Stanyhurst in his Annotations upon Giraldus Mare Hibernicum satis tranquillum est nisi ventorum vi agit●tur non solum aestate sed etiam summa hyem● vectores ultro citroque navigant The Irish-sea is quiet enough except when by high windes it is stirred so as not only in the summer but even in the midst of winter people do pass it to fro are altogether true confirmed by dayly experience True it is that some ships do perish upon this but the same happeneth as well upon other seas who are all subject to the disaster of tempests and shipwracks Sect. 2. Causes of the loss of such ships as perish upon this sea The common cause of the casting away of ships upon this sea and upon the East-coast of Ireland is this that in the long dark Winter-nights when this disaster is more frequent than at
a great way at the end of which sand and in the innermost part of the Bay lyeth a litle Iland called in English Mutton-Iland and by the Irish Enis Kerrigh which hath the same signification at the East side whereof one may anchor in five or six fathomes of water but from thence Northwards untill the citty of Galloway which is the space of two or three miles none but litle vessels and barks can goe the Citie standing not on the Bay itself but on a broad water like a river the which not farre above Galloway comming out of a great Lake called Lough Corbes dischargeth it self into the Bay a litle above Mutton I le Sect. 7. The Havens of Limmerick Smerwick Dingle-bay Ventrie and Dingle-Icoush The next great Haven on the West side of Ireland to the South of Galloway is that of Limmerick which Haven divideth the Province of Connaught from Munster beeing of a huge length no less than fifty miles for so far it is from the mouth of the haven untill the Citty of Limmerick to whose walls great vessels may goe up without meeting with any thing els in all that way save a many little Iles but not any f●ul places Rocks or Sands This Harbour is nothing els but a great Lough halfe way its length growing somewhat narrow but immediatly enlarging it self again into a great breadth whereinto the River Shanon upon whose bank Limmerick is situated dischargeth it self a litle way below the said City although the English and the Irish both call it the Shanon all the way untill the Sea as it were not a Lough into which the River falleth but the River it self thus enlarged Comming out of this Harbour the Land on the left hand shooteth a huge way Westwards into the Sea on the side of which Fore-land ten o● twelve miles at this side of the uttermost point betwixt which and the Iles of Blaskes passeth the Sound of the same name is the Haven of Smerwick not very great deep but clean and well inclosed At the other side of this Fore-land and to the North-east from the Blaskes is a fair and very large Bay called Dingle-bay the which goeth very many miles into the land having in it divers good Havens one whereof called Ventry is four or five miles from the Sound of Blaskes Eastwards and three or four miles further is Dingle-Icoush before the mouth of which Harbour and at the West-side of it lyeth a rock called the Crow round about the which one may sail without danger it being alwayes above water but at spring tides at which time the Sea doth overflow it Sect. 8. Maire Bantrie and Beer-haven Against the South-east corner of Dingle-bay lyeth a great Iland called Valentia betwixt which and the Main is a very fair and safe Road. And a litle way beyond that Iland goeth in another huge Bay called Maire which shooteth into the Land a great deal further than Dingle-bay and somewhat further is a third Bay called Bantrie which equalleth Maire both in breadth and length in both which as well as in Dingle-bay there be severall good Harbours and Roads Maire hath in the mouth some fifty or five-and-forty fathomes of water entring in further there be six and twenty twenty and eighteen afterwards you come to ten and to six and in the innermost parts to three and two fathomes beeing throughout very clean and free from all kind of Rocks and Sands except in very few places As you enter into Bantrie side-ward upon the left hand lyeth a reasonable big I le called the Iland of Beer-haven betwixt which and the Main there goeth in a fair Sound being a great musket shot broad the which in its whole length from where it beginneth untill the place where it endeth at the further part of the Iland being the space of some miles se●veth for a very good and safe port wherefore also it beareth the name of a Hav●n being called Beer-haven A good way within the mouth●ly some Rocks in the midst of the chanel the which at high water are overflown you may sail of either side of them at the other side of this Sound where the same commeth out into the Bantrie there ly two great Rocks just in the mouth betwixt which the ships may pass as also betwixt the same and the land of either side All the rest of this Harbour or Sound is every where very clean and clear and very good anchor-ground ten twelve and thirteen fathoms deep Sect. 9. Whiddie-haven and Langerf In the innermost of the Bantrie lyeth an Iland about three miles long called Whiddie betwixt which and the Main is a very fair wide Bay being the uttermost end of the great Bay Bantrie where you may every where come to an anchor in three four five or six fathomes in as much or as litle water as you will according as you have a mind to ride neer the shore or further from it being every where clean ground Ships may enter into this Bay or Sound in two severall places at both ends of the Iland But the entrance at the South-end is very dangerous because that there betwixt the Iland Whiddie and the Main land it is in most places foul and Rockie But in the other entrance at the Northern end of the Iland is both room and depth enough it being much broader than that at the South-end and eight and nine fathomes deep and there is nothing that can doe hurt except only a row of Rocks a litle musket shot from the shoar the which being covered at high water doe not begin to appear but at half ●bb Right against this Iland at the other side of Bantrie is a Haven called Langerf in which is every where good anchoring and good ground only at the one side on the right hand close to the mouth ly some foul grounds the which fall dry at the ebb of a springtide From Beerhaven to the Northern corner of the Iland Whiddie the Bantrie tendeth East-North-East and North-East eighteen or twenty miles in length Over against Beerhaven in the midst of the fair water it is deep forty six and thirty and thirty fathoms beyond the Iland fifteen and sixteen but further in approaching the I le of Whiddie it is again twenty and five and twenty fathoms deep Sect. 10. Downams bay Baltimore-bay and Baltimore-haven Next to the Bantrie and only by a narrow neck of land divided from it is Downams bay being great and wide although no wayes comparable to any of those three already described a very commodious Road to save ships in and good anchor ground every where The land to the East of this Bay shooteth out very far to the Sea-ward the uttermost point thereof called Messan-head being the Southermost Cape of all Ireland For Cape de Clare being about twenty miles further to the East and somewhat more Southerly is not on the Main but in an Iland Beyond Messan-head is another Bay far greater than any of those
Sands or Grounds as any in all the world not alone upon the other sides where the same is wide and open far distant from all other lands but upon the East-side where the same is inclosed betwixt Ireland and Great-Britain in which whole space it hath not any other Sands than those situated along the coast between Dublin and Wexford These indeed are of a huge extent but not turning and winding as most part of the Grounds in other places but in a streight line North-North-East South-South-West being farthest from the land with their North-end and as they go Southward so they do come nearer to the land and near the Tuskar a Rock right against the point of Greenore in which place they end they are not much more than two miles distant from the land whereas the distance betwixt the North-end near the Iland Dalkee which Iland as before we have shewed lyeth at the entrance of Dublin-bay about threescore miles from the Tuskar is above eight miles They are all of a Stoney-ground in some places but one fathom deep and a fathom and a half but in the north-North-end two fathoms and a half and three fathoms Betwixt these Grounds and the land lye two or three little Sands besides those which lye in and before the mouth of the Bay of Wexford one betwixt the south-South-end and Greenore another to the South of the Head of Glascarick a good mile from the land called Rush and Ram and a third one mile to the South of Arcklohead called Glaskermen somewhat more than half a mile from the land and about two miles long Sect. 2. Of the Chanel betwixt the Land and the forenamed Grounds The Chanel betwixt the great Grounds and the land is very deep all over so that the biggest vessels may pass through it from Dublin to Wexford and from Wexford to Dublin taking care only that they doe not come too neer the Grounds the which being very steep on the inside as they are also without or on the East-side where ships may not come neerer to them than in 24. and 25. fathoms because that in twenty fathomes one is close by them it is requisite not to goe further off from the land than in seven or eight fathoms in which depth ships may within a cabels length sail all along the coast the which here every where is very clean and free from all danger And even between the land and the forenamed small Grounds Glaskermen and Rush and Ram the Sea is very clean and deep so as most ships doe passe betwixt them and the land and not about by the out side of them These Sands in four severall places are cut thorough with fair broad and deep chanells whereof the one is over against the Bay of Wexford the other against Glascarick beeing no less than fifteen or sixteen fathoms deep the third right against Arckloe in which chanel it is about seven or eight fathoms deep and the fourth is directly against Wickloe Sect. 3. Blind Rocks upon the coast of Ireland from the Saltees unto Wickloe There are some blind Rock in this Sea but lye for the most part close under the land or neer some of the litle Ilands or high Rocks so as they may easily be shunned the rather because most of them doe at low water appear either in part or altogether To speak a litle of these in order the Saltees two litle Ilands situated half way between the Haven of Waterford and and the head of Carnarord of the which hath been spoken heretofore have both at the North-side some blind Rocks whereof those which ly neer the bigger and Southermost Iland fall dry at low water About three miles to the South of the same bigger Iland lyeth a blind Rock called Kinmore of the bignes of a ship at half ebbe it cometh above water and is so steep that with the side of a ship one may ly close against it and have fourteen fathomes of water so as without any danger one may sail very close by it To the South-East of the fore named bigger Iland doe also lye some blind Rocks called the Frailes the which may be seen at low water and ships may passe through the midst of them About half a mile from Blackrock a noted Rock whereof shall be spoken anon lyeth a blind Rock called the Barrell of the which one must take heed very carefully A little to the West of Carnarord lyeth a small Rocky foul close under the land Betwixt Carnarord and St Margarets Bay it is foul and Rocky but the foul grounds doe not reach far into the Sea South-South-East from St Margarets Bay lyeth a blind Rock called Caliogh the which at low water falleth dry From the point of Greenore a riffe of blind Rocks and Stones runneth almost the length of a mile into the Sea the which at low water falleth dry a good way from the land At the North-side of the Head of Arcklo lyeth a litle Stony row the which is shunned very carefully by the ships not daring to come neerer to it than in five fathoms of water Sect. 4. The rest of the blind Rocks upon the coast of Ireland Iust to the South of the head of Wickloe a little way from the land lyeth a Rocky sand called Horse-shoe betwixt which and the land ships may sail thorough if need be but that being full of danger it is done very seldome and a little further to the South lyeth a little blind Rock close by the land called the Wolfe the which at half ebb cometh above water betwixt which and the land fishers boats doe passe The like blind Rocks Rockie sands lye upon the coast betwixt Tredagh and Dundalk as also betwixt Dundalk and Carlingford in both places close under the land at both the points of the Havens of Carlingford Strangford under St Iohns point situated half way between those two Havens on both sides of those two great Rocks a litle way beyond Strangford Haven called Southrock and Northrock between the Ilands of Copland Iles and the land at the South-point of the bay of Knockfergus round about those great Rocks over against Oldfleet called the nine maids to the West of the little Iland called Sheeps-Iland betwixt Port Belletree and Skires Portrush which Rocks are called the Chickens half-way betwixt Lough-Suillie and Sheeps-Haven a mile or two from the land which Rocks the flood doth cover but at ebbe they come above water in severall other places upon the West-coast the South-coast the which it would be tedious all to particularise wherfore we will conclude this rehearsall of the Blind Rocks with that which to the West of St Iohns point a point situated three or four mile Southwards from Kilbeg-haven doth lye somwhat more than a mile off from the land upon which the Sea breaketh with great noise and nevertheless one may freely and without any danger sail between the same and the land Sect. 5. Rocks in the Irish Sea upon the
the same again by any means whatsoever CHAP. XIII Of the Heaths and Moores or Bogs in Ireland Sect. 1. Of the Moory or Boggy-heaths HAving spoke of the fruitfull lands of Ireland it followeth that we treat of those which are neither fit for the bringing of Corn or feeding of Cattle some being such for want of good soyl and others through superfluous moysture Of the first sort are those places where the ground consisting of meer rock sand or earth naturally unfruitful hath no good mold at the top sufficient for Corn or Grass to root and to draw convenient nourishment out of it the ground being bare or over-grown onely with Moss Heath Furze Brakes Thorns Rushes and the like The places whose ground is bare are nothing frequent nor of any great bigness in Ireland and rather on the Sea-side than within the land But the other are very common throughout the whole Kingdom not only in the Mountains many whereof do for the most part consist of nothing else but also in the Hilly-quarters the Plain-countries and in many places of great extent taking up some miles in length and breadth Most of these Wasts in the Plain-countries and Valleys as also some on the Mountains and Hils are Moory and Boggy fit for to dig Turf out to the great commodity of the inhabitants in places where other fuel is wanting So that these parts of Land although barren and producing no kind of thing for the food of man or beasts may not be reckoned in the number of those which are altogether unprofitable being of good use in the parts far distant from the Sea where they can have no Sea-coales and where Woods are wanting nor well live Some of these dry or red Bogs as commonly they are called the first in comparison of those whereof presently shall be spoken the other because the earth in them for the most part is reddish and over-grown with Mos● of the same colour are in some parts of a vast extent instance that by the Shanon-side beginning hard by Atlone and following the course of the River down towards Limmerick which being two or three miles broad in most parts is said to be upwards of fifty miles in length Sect. 2. Of the dry Heaths There are some dry Heaths in Ireland for the most part on the mountains and very few in the plain countries to the contrary of England where as well as in Netherland Germany and other countries those Heaths on plain ground are very common in sundrie parts of the land and many of them of a great extent having very many miles in compass and where any such dry Heaths are in Ireland the land for the most part is not altogether barren but gra●sy between and at the bottome of the heath so as the heath being burnt a thing much used in Ireland both by the English and Irish the land bringeth reasonable good and sweet grass fit for sheep to feed on and with a little extraordinary labour and costs brought to bear corn Others of these Heaths are grassie having the grass growing not all over among the heath but in spaces by it self as upon the Heath between the town of Kildare and the Liffie which is famous over all Ireland by the name of the Currogh of Kildare being a hilly ground at its highest neer the said town from thence towards the Liffie descending by degrees about three miles long and two or three broad divided into rowes of heath and grass which being of no great breadth and many in number doe ly by the ●ide one of another throughout the whole earth each of those rowes extending it self in length from the one end of the Currogh to the other The rowes of Heath are about a stone cast over in some places in some more in others less but those of grass a good deal narrower than the others being alwayes alike green and dry in the winter as well as the summer and clothed with short grass but very sweet and good very convenient for sheep to feed on of the which alwaies in time of peace a very great number is grazing here the whole Currogh being a Commons Sect. 3. Of the Wet Bogs The places barren through superfluous moisture are bogs called by the Irish Moones whereof Ireland is full There is three or four different sorts of them grassy watery muddy and Hassocky as appeareth more largely by the following description But the English Irish have given the name of Bogs not only to the wet of which we are now to treat but aswell to the turf moores of all sorts not excepting the red bog which in most places is firm enough to bear a man or unshod nagge going over it but is not for any great weight But we shall in the following chapters speak in order of the four sorts of wet bggs which above wee have mentioned and afterwards in its due place treat of the turf and red moores as occasion shall require Sect. 4. Of the Grassie Bogs The grassy Bogs are all over covered with grass looking fair and pleasant as if they were dry ground and goodly meadowes whereby many who not knowing the nature of those places and because of the greeness suspecting no evill goe into them to their great trouble and many times to the extreme danger of their lives for the earth being very spongy can bear no weight but as well men as beast assoon as they set foot on it doe sink to the ground some knee deep others to the wast and many over head and ears for all or most bogs in Ireland having underneath a hard and firm gravell are not of an equall depth which in some is only of two or three feet in others five six or more in somuch that those who fall into the deepest places of these bogs can hardly escape but for the most part doe perish being pittifully smothered Some of these bogs doe so dry up in the summer that they may be passed without danger the which in particular falleth out in the great Mountaines in Munster in the county of Kerry called Slew-Logher upon which all kind of cattle doe grase the summer long being every where full of good and sweet grass knee deep in most places whereof not the tenth part being eaten for if all the cattle of that Province were driven thither and left all the summer upon the place it would hardly be consumed the rest is spoyled when the wet weather cometh in and stayeth the rain-water from descending through which the ground rotteth in that manner that all winter long it is unpassable for men and beasts But the deepest bogs are unpassable in the summer as well as in the winter yet most of them have firm places in narrow paths in some larger parcels by the meanes whereof those unto whom they are known can cross them from one side to another where others who are not used to them doe not know in what part to set one step in which
it selfe beeing great and populous what into the country for in the time of peace almost all Leinster and and Vlster were wont to furnish themselves from Dublin of all kinds of provisions and necessaries such as were brought in out of forrein Countries Next to Dublin is Galloway the head-citie of the Province of Connaught to bee reckoned as well for bigness and faireness as for riches for the streets are wide and handsomely ordered the houses for the most part built of free stone and the inhabitants much addicted to trafick doe greatly trade into other countries especially into Spain from whence they used to fetch great store of wines and other wa●es every year In the third place commeth Waterford situated in the province of Munster and in the fourth Limmerick the head-city of the said Province both towns of trafick situated on goodly havens and of reasonable bigness and handsomness Cork in the Province of Munster and London-derrie in the Province of Vlster are less than any of the formentioned but otherwise handsome places well built very fitly situated for trafick and navigation as standing upon very good Havens As for the rest of the Townes Drogheda Kilkenny and Bandonbridge are passable and worthy of some regard both for bigness and handsomeness But Colrain Knockfergus Belfast Dundalk Wexford Youghall and Kinsale are of small moment the best of all these being hardly comparable to any of those fair Market-townes which are to be found in almost all parts of England And as for Cassel Rosse Lismore Clonmell and Kilmallock in Munster Sleigo and Atlone in Connaught Molingar Trimme Kels Navan Aboy Nace Carlo Arklo and Wicklo in Leinster Carlingford Ardee and Down in Vlster all of them walled Townes they are scarce worth the mentioning because there are few Market Townes in England even of the meanest which are not as good or better than the best of them all We could give a more perfect relation of this particular but because this serveth little to our purpose and properly doth not concern the Naturall History wee have thought it best to touch it but briefly CHAP. II. Of the principall Havens of Ireland Sect. 1. Waterford Haven THe Havens of Ireland are so many in number and for the most part so fair and large that in this particular hardly any land in the whole World may be compared with this as will easily appear by the particular rehearsall thereof which we are now to make first of the best and chiefest in this Chapter and of the others in the next We shall begin with Waterford Haven the which being situated on the confines of Leinster and Munster runneth some seven or eight miles into the land not winding or crooked nor with any great nookes or inlets but almost in a straight line extending in it self North and North by West and in most parts of an equall breadth all the way deep and clear having no roks or sands but onely two or three little ones which lying not across nor in the midst but by the sides may be shunned very easily Without the Harbour it is eleven and twelve fathoms deep in the mouth seven and more inwards six fathoms Within the Easterly corner is a good road in four or five fathoms and on the other or Westerly side five or six miles from the mouth is another good road very commodious as well for them who goe forth as those that will sail upward to Waterford Upon the East-side about halfe-way the length lyeth a very strong Castle called Duncannon which so commandeth this Harbour as no ships can go up or down against the will of those in the Fort without running extreme hazard This Haven in the end divideth it self into two armes both a great deal inferiour to the principall harbour in breath and depth but yet such as are capable of ships of a good big port especially the left which runneth Westward to the City of Waterford whereof this whole Haven beareth the Name being situated some four or five miles from that division and a little below the place where the river Shure falleth into this Harbour The right arm being the mouth of the river Barrow and extending it self straight along goeth up to Ross a Town in former times famous for trade the which is much about the same distance from this division as the division is from the mouth of the Harbour Sect. 2. Carlingford Haven On the whole coast of Leinster there is not one fair large Harbour so as the next good Haven from Waterford Northwards is that of Carlingford which two Harbours in sayling straight along the coast are above an hundred mils distant This Haven is some three or four miles long and nigh of the same breath being every where very deep so as the biggest ships may come there to an anchor and so environed with high land and mountaines on all sides that the ships doe lie defended off all winds so that this would bee one of the best havens of the world if it were not for the difficultie and the danger of the entrance the mouth being full of rocks both blind ones and others betwixt which the passages are very narrow whereby it commeth that this Harbour is very little frequented by any great ships the rather because there is no trafick at all nor any good Town seated on this Haven For the Town of Carlingford whose name it beareth is a very poor place hardly worth the speaking of About eight miles from the mouth of the Harbour is the Nurie a fine little Town untill in this late bloody rebellion it was for the greatest part destroyed by the Irish by which Town passeth a little river called the Nurie-water which discharging it self into the Harbour some four or five miles below the Nurie is not portable but of very little barkes and boats and that onely when the Tide is in Sect. 3. Strangford-haven and that of Knockfergus About thirtie miles Northwards from Carlingford-haven is the Haven of Strang-ford the which in its entrance is almost as much encumbred with rocks of both kinds as that of Carlingford It is some five or six miles long and beareth North-westward being the mouth of a great Lough called Loch Cone the which being but two or three miles broad in the most places but some fifteen or sixteen long doth ebb flow untill the utmost ends of it so that there goeth a very strong tide in this Harbour which makes the same the unsafer especially in great stormes and high winds for which there is no great defence here On this Haven and on the neighbouring Lough there lyeth never a good Town Strangford beeing more inconsiderable yet than Carlingford The next great Harbour upon this coast and about twenty miles more to the North is that of Knocfergus being a great wide Bay the which in its mouth betwixt the Southern the Northern point is no less than ten or twelve miles broad growing narrower by degrees the farther it goeth
part whereof never no news hath been heard since Sect. 3. The Havens of Drogheda and Dundalk The Haven of Drogheda or as the word is pronounced in common use Tredagh is very troublesom to be got into as having not only a Bar lying across before its mouth over the which vessels cannot pass but at high water but also very narrow in the mouth This Haven not being an Arm or Bay of the sea but onely a River which keepeth her own bigness untill the end without receiving any notable enlargement of the sea about her mouth as other Rivers use to do Upon this Bar is as much water as upon that of Dublin and the Ships which can pass the Bar may go up to the Key of Tredagh which Town is seated about two miles from the month of this River which is called the Boine Sixteen miles to the North of Tredagh standeth Dundalk where a wide open Bay made by the giving back and retiring of the coast growing narrow and receiving a little River which above Dundalk is but a small Brook maketh a kind of Haven where never is much water and with the ebbe may be passed over a foot wherefore and because there is not any shelter for the windes comming from the sea nor any usuall Trafique this Road is very little fr●quented Sect. 4. The Havens o● Dondrom Arglas Oldfleet Belletree and the Band. A few miles on this side of Strongford are the Havens of Dondrom and Arglas the one not far from the other both little and not very deep but safe And a little way beyond the Northern point of the Bay of Knockfergus is Oldfleet-haven a Harbour of the same sort as those two last mentioned Port Belletree six or seven miles to the West of Fair-foreland the North-Easterliest point of Ireland is as little as any of those three less defended of the winds and the ground sharp and foul Some miles further is the Haven of Colrain called Band-haven the which is nothing else but the mouth of the River Band the which here falleth into the sea keeping her own narrowness untill the end in the same manner as we said above of the Haven of Tredagh This River passing through Lough Neaugh the greatest Lake of all Ireland the which receiving severall Rivers hath no other out-let into the sea but the Band carrieth a mighty deal of water the which being inclosed in a narrow chanel powreth it self into the sea with great violence for which reason and because of the narrowness of the mouth this Haven is very hard to enter having also but little depth so as vessels which draw eight feet of water must at least have three quarters of the flood before they can enter Sect. 5. Tellin-haven Mackswins-bay the Havens of Balleshanon Slego Endrigo Moy and Niffadoy Upon the West coast of Ulster about half way between Cape Tellin and Kilbeg is Tellin-haven a round Bay with good sand ground which will contain about thirty Ships West and South-West winds blow directly into it but off all other winds one is there defended Two or three miles Eastwards from Kilbeg is Mackswins Bay where a Ship may ride safe without Cable and Anchor but the entrance being every where beset with Rocks it is dangerous to go into it Some miles to the South-West of Dungal-haven is Balleshanon being the mouth of that short River by which Lough-Earn one of the greatest Lakes of Ireland dischargeth it self into the sea which River runneth just on the borders of the two Provinces of Ulster and Connaught dividing the same this having a Bar before it by reason whereof no bigger vessels than of thirty or forty tuns can enter into it Slego and Endrigo are two little Harbours situated near the one to the other in the North part of Connaught very much encumbred with Rocks and Sands in the entrance but otherwise reasonably deep for a Ship of two hundred Tunnes may come and ride before the Town of Slego About half way between Slego and Broad-haven is Moy being the innermost of a great Bay divided from the rest by a little Iland somewhat long the which lyeth cross in that manner that onely one chanel remaineth whereby to go out of the great Bay into the lesser or the Haven which chanel is twelve feet deep but in the Haven it self being nothing else but two little Creeks divided asunder by some sands lying betwixt them it is about fifteen or sixteen feet deep but in the little channel which passeth into the inmost creek being nearest to the Village Moy there is but nine feet of water at full flood with an ordinary tide Some miles to the South-East of Sline-head a famous Cape in Connaught and situated about half way the length of that Province is Port Niffadoy a reasonable good Harbour but very dangerous to get into the sea there round abouts being full of Rocks both blind ones and others Sect. 6. The Havens of Trailie Youghall and Dungarvan item of Wickloe Arckloe Malahide c. At Trailie half way between Smerwick and the mouth of the Haven of Limmerick is a fair Haven but none of the biggest About the middle way between Cork and Waterford is the Haven of Youghall before the which lyeth a Bar not to be passed but at high water Twelve miles Eastwards from Youghall is Dungarvan being a narrow Tide-haven whose mouth is full of Rocks many of which do not appear and so more dangerous and at low water it falleth dry so as one must go into it at high flood and pass amidst the Rocks As for the Havens of Arckloe where with high water it is but six feet deep of Wickloe where at ful flood you have but ten feet of water Malahide a little to the North of the Bay of Dublin Coldach-haven and Red-haven the first betwixt Loughsoile and Loughsuillie and the other betwixt Loughsuillie and Sheeps-haven Milk-haven not far from Slego Mablin-haven betwixt Waterford and Wexford and some others of the same nature They are so little that they will hardly serve for other than Fisherboates and therefore scarce merit the name of Havens Sect. 7. Roads upon the Coast of Ireland from Waterford to Fair-Foreland Be●ides this great number of Havens in Ireland there are many good Roads where ships at need may save themselves and commodiously come to an anchor not only upon the coast of the Main land but also in the most part of the litle Ilands which ly round about Ireland To begin with those on the Main From the point of Waterford to Carnarord being the space of about twenty miles the coast is full of Bayes where one may come to an anchor Under Carnarord ships anchor in six and nine fathomes In St Margarets bay three miles from Carnarord it is good anckoring in five and six fathomes sand ground A litle further is the bay of Grenore where you may anchor as neer the land as you will in six five four or three fathomes Some miles from
other times of the year some furious storm arising the ships are dashed against the Rocks against the rocky Shoares or against those Grounds which extend themselves betwixt the Tuskar and the Bay of Dublin whilst the Steer-men and Pilots by reason of the darkness not being able to discern the land or any of their wonted marks do not know which way to steer to shun those dangerous places and to keep themselves in the open sea Sect. 3. Nature of the ground of the Irish-sea The ground of the Irish-sea as well in the midst as under the land is almost every where clear sand but in some places black and muddy or oasi●-earth In very few places rough and sharp and scarce any where else but in the Bay of Wickloe so hard and stifly compacted that the Anchors can take no hold of it Sect. 4. Of the Tides in the Irish-sea What concerneth the Ebbing and Flowing in this sea which invironeth Ireland upon all the West-side it floweth against the land and the Ebbe falleth back from it into the sea the Flood from and the Ebbe towards the West for which reason very great Tides as well of Ebbe as Flood go upon all this coast not onely the open shoares but in the bayes and inlets even those which go a great way into the land as the Haven of Limmerick so as those who have been at Galloway do assure us that it doth so mightily ebbe and flow there that at high-water great vessels may sayl over those Rocks the which with the Ebbe come above water Upon the other side of Ireland it ebbeth and floweth along the land for upon the North-side of Ireland the Ebbe and Flood falleth in the same manner as upon the West-side flowing from and ebbing towards the West But upon the East-side from Fair-Foreland unto Carlingford the Flood commeth from and the Ebbe falleth to the North As upon the rest of this East-side to wit from Carlingford to Carnarord it floweth from the South and ebbeth from the North. For although upon all this side the Flood runneth along the land yet doth it not take its beginning from one and the same but two contrary points the which two floods comming the one out of the Main-sea in the North and the other out of the Main-sea in the South do meet and stop one another before the Haven of Carlingford From Tuskar and Carnarord as far as to the Head of Clare being the whole South-Eastcoast of Munster the Flood falleth along the coast East-North-East and the Ebbe West-South-West But upon the rest of the coast of Munster beyond the Head of Clare Westward which coast lyeth West and by South the Flood falleth East-ward and the Ebbe to the West Sect. 5. Strong Tides in the Sounds Strange proprietie of the Bay of Wexford in the matter of Tides That which the Sea-faring men do witness that in the Sound of Blaskes of Dalkee and in that of Lambey as also in some other narrow chanels of this sea there goeth a very strong Tide as well of the Ebbe as Flood is no other than may be observed almost every where else in places of the like nature But it is much to be wondered what the same do relate of the chanel or entrance of the Haven of Wexford to wit that it ebbeth and floweth there three houres sooner than without in the open sea so as when it is high water in the chanel of that Haven and upon the bar of the same the Flood doth still for half a Tide or three hours after strongly run by it to the North whereby it cometh to pass that the end of Hanemans-path a great Sand lying just before the Haven of VVexford is cast up more and more to the North and that the chanel which passeth by the North-side of that Sand being the entrance of the Haven is now more to the North than it hath been formerly And as it floweth three houres longer in the open sea than upon the Bar and in the chanel of this Haven in the like manner also the Ebbe in the sea falleth to the South three houres after that it is low water in the same place but not so strongly as the Flood Sect. 6. Some other strange particulars about the Tides in the I●ish-sea related by Giraldus but found not to be true More strange it is what Giraldus writeth of the Havens of Wickloe and Arckloe to wit that in VVickloe-haven it ever floweth when in the sea it ebbeth and that it ebbeth there when it floweth in the sea And that in the same River this Haven being nothing else but the mouth of a little River the water is salt as well when the ebbe is at the lowest as at the flowing and high-water And that to the contrary in that Riveler which at Arcklo dischargeth it self into the sea the water keepeth its sweetness at all times never receiving the mixture of any saltness as well with the flood and high-water as with the ebbe But experience sheweth these things to be repugnant to the truth as also what he writeth of a Rock not far from Arcklo at the one side wherof he saith that it alwayes ebbeth when it doth flow on the other and to the contrary Also that in Milford-haven situated in the Southernmost part of Wales in a manner over against Waterford and upon the next coasts it ebbeth and floweth at quite contrary times to what it doth at Dublin and the coast thereabouts so that it should begin to ebbe in Milford-haven when in the Bay of Dublin it beginneth to flow and to flow in Milford-haven when it beginneth to ebbe at Dublin Which how untrue it is all those can witnes who having bin in both places have had the curiosity to observe the times and houres at what age of the Moon soever wherein it doth begin to ebbe and to flow there CHAP. VII Of the Springs and Fountains item of the Brooks and Rivelets of Ireland Sect. 1. Of the Springs and Fountains HAving sufficiently spoke of the Sea wherin Ireland lyeth and of whatsoever belongeth thereunto we shall now before we come to treat of the Land it self speak of the Waters within the Land first of the Springs and Brooks afterwards of the Rivers and lastly of the Loughs or Lakes As for the first to wit Fountains and Springs Ireland is very full of them every where not only in the mountainous and hilly parts but even in the flat and Champain countries Which Springs for the most part are all of one and the same fashion being like unto a small pit full of water up to the brim at the lower ●ide whereof the water doth run forth without making any noise or bubling For that kind of Fountains which forcibly burst out of the side of a Rock or spout their water on high are very rarely to be found in this Kingdom The water of these Well-springs is for the most part cool clear and pure free from all strange smell and
finding an open entrance and twice a day with the Tide fully flowing into them maketh the water so salt And it would be no great error to take all those Loughs wherein that happeneth viz. Lough Cone in the County of Down Lough-Foile in the County of Colrain Lough-suille in Tirconnell and the Lough of Cork rather for Inlets of the Sea than for Lakes although the Inhabitants hold them all to be Loughs and give them the name of Loughs And in this number is also to be put that great Lough betwixt Limmerick and the sea through which the Shanon dischargeth it self into the sea of the which we have already spoke once or twice heretofore Sect. 4. Of Lough-Earne Lough-Neaugh and the rest of the great Loughs Amongst the great Loughs of Sweet-water are far the principallest Lough-Earne Lough-Neaugh the first of which is situated in the confines of Ulster and Connaught being in effect two different Loughs joyned together onely by a short and narrow chanel of which two that which lyeth farthest within the land doth extend it self in a manner directly North and South but the second which is next to the sea doth lye East and West so that both together they have the fashion of a bended elbow being both very broad in the midst growing by degrees narrower towards both the ends Lough-Neaugh lyeth in the North-Easterly part of Ulster bordering upon the Counties of Tirone Armagh Down Antrim and Colrain being of a round or rather somwhat ovall figure Next in bigness to these two is Lough-Corbes the same on whose neather-neather-end the City Galloway is seated The two Loughs thorough which the Shanon passeth Lough-Ree and Lough-Dirg item Lough-Fingarrow in Connaught betwixt the Counties of Maio and Roscomen In the last place as the least of this sort are Lough-Allen out of which the Shanon taketh his originall being nine miles long and three miles broad Lough-Me●ke situated betwixt Lough-Fingarrow and the Lough of Galloway And Lough-Larne in the County of Kerry in Munster not far from the upper-end of those two famous Bayes Dingle and Maire The least of these is some miles long and broad and many miles in circuit but the biggest are of so vast a compass that they are more like a Sea than a Lough Sect. 5. Of the Ilands in the Loughs Most of these great Loughs are very full of little Ilands and above all Lough-Earne in which the same are numberless In Lough-Cone also there is so great a number that those who inhabit about it affirm them to bee two hundred and threescore Lough-Ree and Lough-Dirg are likewise very full of them And there is also a good many in Lough-Fingarrow Lough-Larne and Suille But Lough-Foile is very free from them and in the Lough of Cork there is not above one or two as likewise in Lough-Neaugh in which they lye near to the ●ides leaving the midst altogether free Very few of these Ilands are inhabited or planted but the most part being plentifully cloathed with very sweet Grass serve for pastures to sheep and other cattle the which doe thrive wonderfully well in them and the same befalleth also in the middle sort of Loughs amongst which likewise there be very few that have not some of these little Ilands in them In some few of these Ilands especially of Lough-Earne and Lough-Ree are some dwellings whereunto persons who love solitariness were wont to retire themselves and might live there with much contentment as finding there not only privacy and quietness with opportunity for studies and contemplations but there besides great delightfulness in the place it self with variety of very sweet pastimes in fowling fishing planting and gardening In one of the greatest Ilands of Lough-Earne Sir Henry Spotteswood had a fine seat with goodly Buildings Gardens Orchards and a pretty little Village with a Church and Steeple belonging to it which whither it is in being yet or destroyed by the Barbarians and bloody Rebels I am not informed In Lough Sillon in the County of Cavan in a Iland not far from the bank where the River Nanne● runneth into it is a Castle built of form four square which covereth the whole I le much after the manner of the Fort Eneskellin in Lough-Earne and so many more to long to be rehearsed Sect. 6. Of St Patriks Purgatory One of these little Ilands situated in Lough-Dirg one of the middle-sort of Loughs hath been very famous for the space of some ages over almost all Christendome because the world was made to beleeve that there was the suburbs of Purgatorie into which whoso had the courage to goe and remaine there the appointed time did see and suffer very strange and terrible things which perswasion having lasted untill our times the matter hath been discovered with in these few yeares and found to be a meer illusion This discoverie was made during the goverment of Richard Boile Earle of Cork and Adam Lostus Vicount of Elie and Lord Chancellour of Ireland which two being Lords Iustices of that Kingdome in the last yeares of King Iames desirous to know the truth of the business sent some persons of qualitie to the place to inquire exactly into the truth of the whole matter These did find that that miraculous and fearfull cave descending down to the very Purgatorie and Hell was nothing els but a little cell digged or hewen out of the Rockie ground without any windowes or holes so as the doore beeing shut one could not see a jot within it beeing of so little depth that a tall man could but just stand upright in it and of no greater capacity than to contain six or seven persons Now when that any person desirous to goe that Pilgrimage to Purgatory was come into the Iland the Friars some small number whereof made their constant aboad there for that purpose made him watch and fast excessively whereby and through the recounting of strange and horrible apparitions and ●antasmes which he would meet withall in that subterranean pilgrimage being well preepared they did shut him up in that little dark hole and beeing drawn out again from thence after some houres altogether astonished and in a maze he would be a good while before he came again to himself and afterwards the poor man would tell wonderfull stories as if in very deed he had gone a great way under the ground and seen and suffered all those things which his weak imagination altogether corrupted by the concurrence and sequel of so many causes to weaken the braine did figure unto him To prevent this delusion in future times the said Lords Iustices caused the Friars to depart from thence their dwelling quite to be demolished and the hole or cell to be broke open and altogether exposed to the open aire in which state it hath lyen ever since whereby that Pilgrimage to Purgatory is quite come to nothing and never hath bin undertaken since by any To beget the greater reputation to this sictitious Purgatory the people
but all the walls quite through and at the out-side as well as at the in-side be perfectly burnt and turned into good brick wherein oftentimes through the unskilfulness or neglect of those who make fill these Kilns and of those that govern the fire there is great loss and that two manner of ways For sometimes great part of the Bricks is found not to be sufficiently nor uniformly burnt and on the other side it falleth out oftentimes that great quantities are reduced into one beeing burnt or half-burnt into great unshapely masses or lumps which are good for nothing They do commonly burn in those Kilns two or three hundred thousand Bricks at a time the which for the most part all charges being reckoned come to stand betwixt six and eight shillings sterling the thousand Sect. 8. Of the Glass made in Ireland We shall conclude this chapter with the Glass there having been severall Glass-houses set up by the English in Ireland none in Dublin or other cities but all of them in the countrie amongst which the principall was that of Birre a Market-town otherwise called Parsons-town after one Sir Laurence Parsons who having purchased that Lordship built a goodly house upon it his son William Parsons having succeeded him in the possession of it which Town is situate in Queens county about fifty miles to the South-west of Dublin upon the borders of the two Provinces of Leinster and Munster From this place Dublin was furnished with all sorts of vvindovv and drinking-glasses and such other as commonly are in use One part of the materials viz. the Sand they had out of England the other to vvit the Ashes they made in the place of Ash-tree and used no other The chiefest difficulty vvas to get the clay for the pots to melt the materials in this they had out of the North. CHAP. XXI Of the Temperature and Qualities of the Air and Seasons in Ireland as for Heat Cold and Moisture Sect. 1. Of the Cold weather and the Frosts ALthough the climate of Ireland is somewhat Northerly the Land extending it self from the beginning of the one and fiftieth degree of Latitude until the end of the five and fiftieth nevertheless is the Air there very temperate and nothing subject to violent Colds not onely in Munster Leinster and Connaught but even in the most Northern-part to wit the Province of Ulster much less than any other Land lying in the same height or latitude yea than many Countries of a much more Southerly-climate True it is that the Cold-weather doth commonly begin here somewhat soon namely in the beginning of October and sometimes in the middle or latter end of September continuing ordinarily the space of five or six moneths until the midst or latter end of March and sometimes also good part of April during which whole space of time all such persons as are chilly and cold of nature and do sit still much can hardly be any long while without a fire But again on the other side it is very seldom violently cold there and freezeth but little there are commonly three or four Frosts in one Winter but they are very short seldom lasting longer than three or four days together withall at their very worst nothing near so violent as in most other Countries so that some all Winter long hardly come near a fire once in a day and that not only in the ordinary cold weather but even whilst it is a freezing Yea many times the cold is so slack even in the midst of the Winter-moneths that by walking onely or doing some other moderate exercise you shall find your self as warm and the Air as sweet and pleasant as if it were in the moneth of May. There hath been some Winters wherein it hath frozen ten or twelve dayes together so as the Liffie and other the like Rivers were quite frozen and might be gone upon by men and beasts But those are altogether extraordinary and do come very seldom hardly once in the space of ten or twelve years But how mild they ordinarily be and how little subject to excessive cold may appear hereby that all kind of beasts and cattle as cows horses and sheep do there all Winter long remain abroad and do ●eed in the fields where they are left in the night-time as well as in the day and that many herbs which in England and Netherland do● dye every Winter here continue all the year long Sect. 2. Of the Warm-weather And as the cold in Winter is very moderate and tolerable so is also the heat in Summer the which is seldom so great even in the hottest times of the year as to be greatly troublesome And it falleth out oft enough in the very Summer-moneths that the weather is more inclinable to cold than to heat so as one may very well endure to come near a good fire And this cometh to pass only during the Wet-weather for else and whilst it is fair it is very warm all summer long albeit seldom over-hot And so it is many times also even on the rainie dayes whereas for the most part it is very cool in them and the heat much less than the season doth require Sect. 3. Of the Rain and We●-weather The Rain is very ordinary in Ireland and it raineth there very much all the year long in the Summer as well as in the Winter Commonly in the Spring of the year it is very fair weather with clear sun-shine from morning till night for the space of five or six weeks together with very little or no interruption which fair weather beginneth commonly in the mon●th of March some years in the beginning other yeares in the midst and sometimes in the latter end of it But the same being once past it raineth afterwards very much all the Summer long so as it is a rare thing to see a whole week pass without it and many Summers it is never dry weather two or three dayes together Which inconstancy and wetness of the weather is not only troublesome to men but also hurtfull to all things growing out of the ground for mans behoof For the heat never being very great and there besides often interrupted by the intervention of the foul weather hath neither time nor strength enough to ripen them so well and so soon as otherwise it would whereby it cometh to pass that as well the fruits of trees as the corn and grass here commonly much ●ater do come to perfection than in the most part of other neighbouring Countries And as the ripeness of the fruits and other increase of the earth is greatly retarded by the abundance of unseasonable rain so it doth also fall out oftentimes that the same being come to ripeness it is difficult to get them in by reason of the exceeding store of rain which doth come down during the Hay-time and the Harvest Wherefore it behoveth one here to be wonderfull diligent and not to lose any part of the fair weather