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A05594 A most delectable and true discourse, of an admired and painefull peregrination from Scotland, to the most famous kingdomes in Europe, Asia and Affricke With the particular descriptions (more exactly set downe then hath beene heeretofore in English) of Italy Sycilia, Dalmatia, Ilyria, Epire, Peloponnesus, Macedonia, Thessalia, and the whole continent of Greece, Creta, Rhodes, the Iles Cyclades ... and the chiefest countries of Asia Minor. From thence, to Cyprus, Phænicia, Syria ... and the sacred citie Ierusalem, &c. Lithgow, William, 1582-1645? 1616 (1616) STC 15711; ESTC S108584 89,947 136

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length lying South and North the North end bordering with the sea neere to Acre called anciently Ptolomais and the South end ioyning with the borders of Samaria Leauing Samaria on our left hand we entred into a faire plaine adorned with fruitful trees and all other ornaments that pleasant fields affoord but no village we saw Marching thus about the declining of the Sun from the Meridian we came in sight of two hundred pauillions all pitched in rankes yéelding the prospect of a little Cittie by a brooke side of water which being perceiued the Captaine began to censure what they might be and immediatly there came riding towards vs sixe naked fellowes well mounted on Arabian geldings who demanded what we were and whither wee were bound and if there were any Frankes of Christendome in our company To whom the Ianisaries replied wee were purposed to Ierusalem and that there was but one Franke with them vpon the which they presently sought me demanding Caffar Caffar and caused me perforce to pay seuen Chickens of gold for my head because say they our King is now resident in these Tents he must pay therefore so much the more extraordinary They returning backe to their Prince with the malediction of a Pilgrimes purse and we marching on our way that day we trauelled aboue 34 miles and pitched at a village called Adoash where we found good hearbes to eate and aboundance of water to drink and also to fill our emptied bottles As we lay downe to sléepe after a hungry supper on the hard ground and our guard watching vs that same King of the Arabians came a little before mid-night with 24 well horsed Runagates and naked Courtiers being armed with bowes and arrowes and halfe-pikes pointed at both ends with hard stéele and asked for the Carauan who presently awoke and went to salute him laying his hand on his breast bowed his head very low which is the vsuall courtesie amongst the Infidels and Christians in these parts for they neuer vncouer their heads to any man and after some short parly they sate all downe on the grasse The Carauan presented his rude-like Maiesty with water bread hearbs figs garlike and such things as he had As they were thus merry at this poore banquet the awfull King tooke the oath of our Conductor if there were any mo Frankes there then I and he hauing sworne the truth the King by a malignant informer incontinently caused me to be brought before him and staring mee in the face asked my Interpreter where were my companions who replyed I had none Then said he tell that dog hee must acknowledge me with fiue péeces of gold more otherwise making a signe to his owne throate I shall cut off his head The which I being informed and knowing that by no condition there was resistance against such a scelerate Prince gaue it to him presently with a halfe smiling countenance which hee remarking told the rest it seemed that I gaue it with a good heart and to recompence my outward behauiour he drunke a great draught of water to me thinking thereby he had done mee more honour then all the chickens of gold I gaue him now and in the morning would do him profite Truely this was one of the greatest tributes I paied for one daies iourney that I had in all my voyage in Asia There are two Kings in Arabia the one who liueth on Euphrates the Desarts of Mesopotamia sometimes in Arabia Felix and in some parts of Siria And the other which was the King to whom I paid this money wandereth with his Tribes Tents and Bestial one while in Arabia Petrea and Deserta and sometimes in the Holy Land as he findeth good Pastorage and fresh fountaines These two Kings are mortall enemies and if by accident they meete they fight most cruelly bringing dammage rapine and destruction to themselues and their followers for it is a difficult thing in them to dominate their inordinate passions being vntamed Sauages and mis-regarders of ciuility who continually contend to corroborate the malignity of their dispositions with bloudy and inhumane enterprises The next morning leauing Iacobs Well and the Town of Sychar on our left hand wee marched through a part of the fields of Basan and had excéeding pleasant trauelling and at night we pitched by Lydda on the fields Lydda is not aboue ten miles from Cesarea The Townes situated by the Sea side in Palestina are these Sydon which standeth on the borders of Zebulon and Nephtalim or Phoenicia being a goodly Citie and well peopled Tyrus which is miserably brought to ruine Acre that hath yet some indifferent Trade of Merchandize Caipha called commonly Castello pellegrino which hath nothing but the remnants of an ancient Abbay Cesarea who reserueth but onely the memory for there is no hospitality in it except it be to wilde beasts Ioppa or Iaphta is a sea-port of small Barkes but the decayed Towne containeth not one dwelling house saue onely a high Towre which defendeth the port from Cursares And Baruti is also thought to bée within Canaan but that I suspend as not hauing had the certainety thereof These are all the Hauens in the Holy Land Aprill the thirtéenth before the breach of day setting forward scarcely were we well aduanced in our way till we were beset with more then three hundred Arabs who sent vs an vnexpected shoare of arrowes to the great anoyance of all our company for if it had not béene that our souldiers shot of their Guns on a sudden surely wee had then miserably perished But the nature of the Arabs is not vnlike to the Iackals for when any of them heare the shot of a Harquebuse they run backe with such spéed as if the fiends of the infernall Court were broken loose vpon them In that momentany conflict on our side there were killed nine women fiue men and about thirty persons deadly wounded which to our worthy Captaine bred no small griefe Till bright day came wee stayed still in that same place and buried the slaine people in deep graues rolling aboue them heauy stones whereby Iackals should not open their graues to eate the corps for such is the nature of these cruell beasts that they onely loue to liue on mans flesh These rauenous beasts as is thought are ingendred of a Fox and a Wolfe Procéeding in our iourney in the Hilly Country of Iudea we entred leauing Rhama on our right hand Rhama is a Towne inhabited by Christians Arabs and Moores not blacke Moores as the Affricans be but they are called Mori which are a kind of Egyptians and not naturally blacke but sun-burnt with the parching heat The whole Territory of Canaan is inhabited with these Moores some Turkes ciuill Arabs and a few Christians and scattered Iewes The Arabians are for the most part Theeues and Robbers the Moores cruell and vnciuill hating Christians to the death The Turkes are the best of all the thrée yet all sworne enemies to Christ.
in the bearing it on my shoulders notwithstanding the way it selfe was fastidious This Mountaie is called Quarantanam or Quaranto being of height by the computation of my painfull experience aboue sixe miles and groweth from the bottome still smaller and smaller till that the top is couered with a little Chappell not vnlike to the proportion of a Pyramide There is no way to ascend vpon this Hill saue one which hath béene hewen out of the rocke by the industry of men experimented in Masonry which was done at the cost of Quéene Helen going vp by the degrées of 45 turnes In all our company there were onely thrée Friers foure Pilgrimes and I that durst attempt to climbe the mountaine After diuers dangers and narrow passages hauing come to the top we entred into a caue ioyning to the Chappell where say they in this place did Christ fast and here it was that he rebuked Sathan In our returne againe wee had a most fearfull descending for one Frier Laurenzo had fallen fiue hundred fadomes ouer the rocke and broke his necke if it had not béene for mee who rashly and vnaduisedly endangered my owne life for his safety as my patent vnder the great seale of Ierusalem beareth sufficient testimony thereof To recite all the circumstances of his deliuerance would moue some merriment to the reader which I purposely omit to auoyd tediousnesse Hauing saluted our Padre Guardiano and the rest of our expecters in our way as wee returned to Ierusalem wée rode by a ruinous Abby where say they S. Ierome dwelt and was sed there by wild Lyons Upon Thursday at night before Good-Friday wee went to the Holy Graue where we staied Friday Saturday on Sunday which was Easter day we came forth first before we entred the Church we gaue euery one of vs Pilgrimes nine Chickens of gold to the Turkes who are kéepers of the doore next two Chickens for our first entring the Citie Thirdly vnto the Padre Guardiano thrée péeces of gold for the candles and other things he spent in their owne ceremonies which we behoued to pay Both mount Caluary and the holy Graue are comprehended within one Church After we entred the first place of any note we saw was the place of Unction which is a foure squared stone inclosed about within an Iron Reuele on which say they the dead body of our Sauiour lay and was embalmed after hee was taken from the Crosse whiles Ioseph of Arimathea was preparing that new Sepulchre for him wherein neuer man lay From thence we came to the holy Graue The holy Graue is couered with a little Chappell standing within a round Quire in the west end of the Church It hath two low and narrow entries As wee entred the first doore the Guardiano fell downe ingenochiato and kissed a stone whereupon hee said the Angell stood when Mary Magdalen came to the Sepulchre to know if Christ was risen on the third day as he promised And within the entry of the second doore wee saw the place where Christ our Messias was buried and prostrating our selues in great humility euery man according to his religion offered vp his prayers to God The sepulchre it selfe is eight foote and a halfe in length and aduanced about thrée foot in height from the ground and three foot fiue inches broad being couered with a faire Marble stone of white colour In this Chappell are alwayes burning aboue fifty Lampes maintained by Christian Princes and they stand within a band of pure gold which is excéeding sumptuous hauing the names of those who sent or gaue them ingrauen vpon the vpper edges of the round circles I demanded of the Guardiano if any part of the Tombe were yet extant who replied there was but because said he Christians resorting thither being deuoutly moued with affection to the place carryed away part thereof which caused S. Helen to inclose it vnder this stoue whereby some reliques of it should alwayes remaine I make no doubt but that same place is Golgotha where the holy Graue was as may appeare by the distance betweene Mount Caluary and this sacred Monument which extendeth to forty of my paces This Chappell is outwardly decored with fifteene couple of Marble Pillars and of 22 foot high and aboue the vpper Couerture of the same Chappell there is a little sixe-angled Turret made of Cedar Wood couered with lead and beautified with sixe small Columnes of the same trée The forme of the Quiere wherein it standeth is like vnto that ancient Rotundo in Rome but a great deale higher and larger hauing two gorgeous Galleries one aboue another and adorned with magnificent Columnes being open at the toppe with a large round which yéeldeth to the heauens the prospect of that most sacred place From thence we marched to Mount Caluary where we ascended by one and twenty steps made partly of Wood and partly of Alabaster stone and there I saw a hole in a rocke of a cubite deepe beautified with thicke boords of siluer and ingrafted letters in which say they the Crosse stood whereon our Sauiour was crucified Leauing Mount Caluary on our left hand we came to the Tomb of Godfrey de Bullion who was the first proclaimed Christian King of Ierusalem and refused to be crowned there saying it was not decent the seruants head should be crowned with gold where the Masters head had béene crowned with thornes hauing this inscription engrauen on the one side Hic iacet inclytus Godfridus de Bullion qui totam hanc terram acquisiuit cultui diuino cuius anima requiescat in pace And ouer-gainst it is the Tombe of King Baldwine his brother which hath these Uerses in golden Letters curiously indented Rex Baldevinus Iudas alter Machabeus Spes patriae Vigor Ecclesiae Virtusvtriusque Quem formidabant cui dona tributa ferebant Caesar Aegypti Dan ac homicida Damascus Proh dolor in modico clauditur hoc Tumulo The other things within the Church they shewed vs were these a marble pillar whereunto say they our Sauiour was bound when he was whipped and scourged for sakes the place in a low Cellar about 14 degrées vnder the ground where the Crosse was hid by the Iewes and found againe by S. Helen the place where Christ was crowned with Thornes which is reserued by the Abasines and where the Souldiers cast lots for his Garments the place where he was imprisoned whiles they were making of his Crosse and where the Crosse being laid along vpon the ground our Sauiour was nailed fast to it the Rocke which as they say rent at his crucifying which is more likely to be done with hammers and set one péece a foote from another for the slit lookes as if it had béen cleft with wedges and béetles And lastly they take vpon them below Caluary to shew where the head of Adam was buried These and many other things are so doubtfull that I doe not register them for truth I meane in demonstrating the particular places but
that the Chappell of Loretta was such a thing I answered I did not beléeue it affirming it was onely but a diuellish inuention to deceiue the blind-folded people and to fill the Coffers of the Romane Priests Now thou bottomlesse gulfe of Papistry here I forsake thee no winter blasting Furies of Satans subtill stormes can make ship-wracke of my faith on the stony shelues of thy deceitfull déepes In the time of our staying here the Emeere or Lord of the Towne sent sixe women conducted by twelue of his seruanes to an Armenian Prince that was a Pilgrime in our company to be vsed by him and others whom so he would elect to be his fellow labourers which indéed he did kindly accept and inuited me to that feast but I gaue him the refusall little regarding such a friuolous commodity He and some of the chifest Pilgrimes entertained them for the space of thrée houres and sent them backe giuing to their Conductors 15 Piasters in a reward Truely if I would rehearse the impudency of these whoores and the brutishnesse of the Armenians as it is most ignominious to the actors so no doubt it would bee very loathsome to the reader Such is the villanie of these Orientall Christian-flaues vnder the Turkes that not onely by conuersing with them learne some of their damnable Ethnicke customes but also going beyond them in beastly sensuality become worse then bruit beasts but God in his iust iudgments that same night threatned to haue punished both the doers and the whole company for their sakes for we hauing resolued to trauell all that night and also because the way was rocky and hard to be knowne and perillous for Arabs we hired a Christian Guide named Ioab and agréed with him to take vs to Lidda which was two dayes iourney But before we tooke horse Ioab had sent a priuy messenger before vs to warne about 300 Arabs who had their abode on the South side of mount Carmel to méet him at such a place as he had appointed giuing them to know wée were potent and rich and that hee should render vs into their hands to be made the miserable obiect of their cruelty This being done and vnknowne to vs we marched riding faster then an ordinary pace which our guide suspecting that by our celerity we should goe beyond the place appointed for his treacherous plot began to crosse vs grieuously leading vs vp and downe amongst pooles and holes whither hee listed where many of our Cammels and Asses were lost and could not bee recouered because wee all beganne to suspect and feare which was the cause that the owners durst not stay to relieue their perishing Beasts In the end the Captaine and Ianisaries en treated him earnestly to bring vs in the right way but the more they requested the more obdurate was his heart replying hee was mistaken and could not finde it till day light vpon the which wordes the company was stayed and in the meane while there came a Turke one of our Souldiers vnto the Captaine saying Hee saw the guide before our departure from Nazareth send a Moore before him for what respect he knew not being long at priuate conference Wherupon they straight bound him with ropes on a horse backe threatning him with death to cause him confesse the truth In the midst of this tumult I hauing got sight of the Northstarre considered thereby that the villaine had led vs more to the Southward then to the Westward which was our way to Ierusalem Whereupon I entreated the Carauan to turne our faces Northward otherwise we should bee cut off and that suddenly for although said I it may peraduenture be that we are 3 or 4 miles short of the place intended for our massacre yet they missing vs wil like rauening Wolues hunt here and there wherefore if wee incline to the North God willing wee shall preuent their bloudy designes To which aduice being duly pondered they yeelded and so I became their guide in the darks night till morning for none of them knew that starre neither the nature of it At last this desperate wretch considering that either by our vanquishing or the enemies victory he could not escape sith his treason was reuealed began to beg pardon of the Carauan saying that if he could haue any surety of his life hee would sufficiently informe vs how to escape these imminent dangers The Captaine being distracted with feare replied hee would and thereupon swore a solemne oath so did the Ianisaries sweare by the head of Mahomet for the like effect which being done he was vntied and confessed that if we had continued in our way he led vs we had beene all put to the edge of the sword and falling downe on his knees cryed oft with teares mercy mercy mercy All that night wee went with that starre and against morning wee were in Palestina neere vnto Tyrus called now Sur which Alexander had so much adoe to conquer being then separated from the maine Continent by the Sea but now ioyned to the firme Land and before you come to the Citie there lieth a great banke of Sand where it is likely the sea hath beene in Alexanders time though now as time altereth euery thing the sea be fled from that place which maketh that ruinous Towne more desolate Aurora no sooner appeared but we were all encouraged for the light of day lends comfort The Captaine sending backe that false Iudas for so was hee sworne to doe sent a Post to Tyrus for a new Guide who came forthwith and brought vs in our way to Mount Carmell for by it we behoued to go Great are the mercies of God! for as he hath made man an excellent creature so hath he also indued him with two great powers in his minde the one a wise power of vnderstanding by which hee penetrateth into the knowledge of things the other a strong power of dexterous resoluing whereby he executeth things wel vnderstood for we hauing iudged the worst resolued the best and by his Almightie prouidence were fréed from that apparant danger although the former dayes whoredome vnnaturall vices deserued a iust punishment This I intimate to all trauellers in generall that if they would that God should further them in their attempts blesse their voyages and grant them a safe returne to their natiue Countries without the which what contentment haue they for all their paines that they would constantly refraine from whoredome drunkennesse and too much familiarity with strangers For a traueller that is not temperate and circumspect in all his actions although hee were headed like that Herculean Serpent Hydra yet it is impossible hee can returne in safety from danger of Turkes Arabs Moores wilde beasts heate hunger thirst and cold Approching to mount Carmell I beheld a farre off vpon the top of the hill the place where Elias ascended to heauen when he left his Cloke behind him to Elizeus his Disciple This mountaine is foure miles of