where they first planted themselves they having not above 3 or 4 Hand-guns the rest of them being arm'd with Lances The Spaniards in these parts are very expert in heaving or darting the Lance with which upon occasion they will do great feats especially in Ambuscades and by their good will they care not for fighting otherwise but content themselves with standing aloof threatning and calling names at which they are as expert as the other so that if their Tongues be quiet we always take it for granted they have laid some Ambush Before night our Canoa came aboard and brought our men all safe The next day two Canoas were sent to the bottom of the Bay to seek for a large Canoa which we were inform d was there The Spaniards have neither Ships nor Barks here and but a few Canoas which they seldom use neither are there any Fishermen here as I judge because Fish is very scarce for I never saw any here neither could any of our men ever take any and yet where ever we come to an Anchor we always send out our Strikers and put out our Hooks and Lines over-board to try for Fish The next day our men return'd out of the Bay and brought the Canoa with them which they were sent for and 3 or 4 days afterward the 2 Canoas were sent out again for another which they likewise brought aboard These Canoas were fitted with Thoats or Benches Straps and Oars fit for service and one of these Captain Eaton had for his share and we the other which we fixt for landing men when occasion required While we lay here we filled our Water and cut a great many Looms or Handles or Staves for Oars for here is plenty of Lancewood which is most proper for that use I never saw any in the South Seas but in this place there is plenty of it in Jamaica especially at a place called Blewfields not Blewfields River which is on the Main near the West end of that Island The Lancewood grows strait like our young Ashes it is very hard tough and heavy therefore Privateers esteem it very much not only to make Looms for Oars but Scowring-Rods for their Guns for they have seldom less than 3 or 4 spare Rods for fear one should break and they are much better than Rods made of Ash. The day before we went from hence Mr. Edward Davis the Company 's Quarter-master was made Captain by consent of all the Company for it was his place by Succession The 20th day of July we sailed from this Bay of Caldera with Captain Eaton and our Prize which we brought from Gallapagos in company directing our course for Ria Lexa The Wind was at North which although but an ordinary Wind yet it carried us in three days abrest of our intended Port. Ria Lexa is the most remarkable Land on all this Coast for there is a high peeked burning Mountain called by the Spaniards Volean-Vejo or the Old Volcan This must be brought to bare N. E. then steer in directly with the Mountain and that course will bring you to the Harbour The Sea Winds are here at S. S. W. therefore Ships that come hither must take the Sea-winds for there is no going in with the Land-wind The Volcan may be easily known because there is not any other so high a Mountain near it neither is there any that appears in the like form all along the Coast besides it smoaks all the day and in the night it sometimes sends forth flames of fire This Mountain may be seen 20 leagues being within 3 leagues of the Harbor the entrance into it may be seen there is a small flat low Island which makes the Harbor it is about a mile long and a quarter of a mile broad and is from the Main about a mile and half There is a Channel at each end of the Island the West Channel is the widest and safest yet at the N. W. point of the Island there is a shole which Ships must take heed of in going in Being past that shole you must keep close to the Island for there is a whole sandy point strikes over from the Main almost half way The East Channel is not so wide besides there runs a stronger tide therefore Ships seldom or never go in that way This Harbor is capable of receiving 200 Sail of Ships the best riding is near the Main where there is 7 or 8 fathom water clean hard Sand. Ria Lexa Town is 2 leagues from hence and there are 2 Creeks that run towards it the Westermost comes near the backside of the Town the other runs up to the Town but neither Ships nor Barks can go so far These Creeks are very narrow and the Land on each side drowned and full of Red Mangrove-trees About a mile and half below the Town on the banks of the East Creek the Spaniards had cast up a strong Breast-work it was likewise reported they had another on the West Creek both so advantageously placed that 10 men might with ease keep 200 men from landing I shall give a description of the Town in my return hither and therefore forbear to do it here Wherefore to resume the thread of our course we were now in sight of the Volcan being by estimation 7 or 8 leagues from the shore and the Mountain bearing N. E. we took in our Topsails and hal'd up our Courses intending to go with our Canoas into the Harbor in the night In the evening we had a very hard Tornado out of the N. E. with much Thunder Lightening and Rain The violence of the Wind did not last long yet it was 11 a clock at night before we got out our Canoas and then it was quite calm We rowed in directly for the shore and thought to have reach'd it before day but it was 9 a clock in the morning before we got into the Harbor When we came within a league of the Island of Ria Lexa that makes the Harbor we saw a House on it and coming nearer we saw 2 or 2 men who stood and looked on us till we came within half a mile of the Island then they went into their Canoa which lay on the inside of the Island and rowed towards the Main but we overtook them before they got over and brought them back again to the Island There was a Horseman right against us on the Main when we took the Canoa who immediately rode away towards the Town as fast as he could The rest of onr Canoas rowed heavily and did not come to the Island till 12 a clock therefore we were forced to stay for them Before they came we examined the Prisoners who told us that they were set there to watch for the Governor of Ria Lexa received a Letter about a month before wherein he was advised of some Enemies come into the Sea and therefore admonished to be careful that immediately thereupon the Governor had caused a House to be built on this
and West Indies for thatching Houses they are very lasting and serviceable much surpassing the Palmeto For this Thatch if well laid on will endure 5 or 6 years and this is called by the Spaniards the Palmeto Royal. The English at Jamaica give it the same Name Whether this be the same which they in Guinea get the Palm-wine from I know not but I know that it is like this The Land in the Country is full of small peeked barren Hills making as many little Valleys which appear flourishing and green At the West end of this Bay is the Hill of Petaplan in lat 17d 30 m. N. This is a round point stretching out into the Sea at a distance it seems to be an Island A little to the West of this Hill are several round Rocks which we left without us steering in between them and the round point where we had 11 fathom water We came to an anchor on the N. W. side of the Hill and went ashore about 170 Men of us and marched into the Country 12 or 14 miles There we came to a poor Indian Village that did not afford us a Meal of Victuals The people all fled only a Mulatto woman and 3 or 4 small Children who were taken and brought aboard She told us that a Carrier one who drives a Caravan of Mules was going to Acapulco laden with Flower and other Goods but stopt in the Road for fear of us a little to the West of this Village for he had heard of our being on this Coast and she thought he still remained there and therefore it was we kept the Woman to be our Guide to carry us to that place At this place where we now lay our Moskito-men struck some small Turtle and many small Jew-fish The Jew-fish is a very good Fish and I judge so called by the English because it hath Scales and Fins therefore a clean Fish according to the Levitical Law and the Jews at Jamaica buy them and eat them very freely It is a very large Fish shaped much like a Cod but a great deal bigger one will weigh 3 or 4 or 5 hundred weight It hath 3 large head with great Fins and Scales as big as an Half-Crown answerable to the bigness of his body It is very sweet Meat and commonly fat This Fish lives among Rocks there are plenty of them in the West Indies about Jamaica and the Coast of Caraccos but chiefly in these Seas especially more Westward We went from hence with our Ships the 18th day and steered West about 2 leagues farther to a place called Chequetan A mile and half from the shore there is a small Key and within it is a very good Harbour where Ships may careen there is also a small River of fresh water and wood enough The 14th day in the morning we went with 95 Men in 6 Canoas to seek for the Carrier taking the Mulatto woman for our Guide but Captain Townly would not go with us Before day we landed at a place called Estapa a league to the West of Chequetan The woman was well acquainted here having been often at this place for Muscles as she told us for here are great plenty of them they seem in all respects like our English Muscles She carry'd us through the pathless Wood by the side of a River for about a league then we came into a Savannah full of Bulls and Cows and here the Carrier before mentioned was lying at the Estantion-house with his Mules not having dared to advance all this while as not knowing where we lay so his own fear made him his Mules and all his Goods become a Prey to us He had 40 packs of Flower some Chocolate a great many small Cheeses and abundance of Earthen Ware The eatables we brought away but the Earthen Vessels we had no occasion for and therefore left them The Mules were about 60 we brought our Prize with them to the shore and so turn'd them away Here we also kill'd some Cows and brought with us to our Canoas In the afternoon our Ships came to an anchor half a mile from the place where we landed and then we went aboard Captain Townly seeing our good success went ashore with his Men to kill some Cows for here were no Inhabitants near to oppose us The Land is very woody of a good fertile soil watered with many small Rivers yet it hath but few Inhabitants near the Sea Captain Townly killed 18 Beefs and after he came aboard our Men contrary to Captain Swan's inclination gave Captain Townly part of the Flower which we took ashore Afterwards we gave the Woman some Cloaths for her and her Children and put her and two of them ashore but one of them a very pretty Boy about 7 or 8 years old Captain Swan kept The Woman cried and begg'd hard to have him but Captain Swan would not but promis'd to make much of him and was as good as his word He proved afterwards a very fine Boy for Wit Courage and Dexterity I have often wonder'd at his Expressions and Actions The 21st day in the evening we sailed hence with the Land-wind The Land-winds on this part of the Coast are at N. and the Sea-winds at W. S. W. We had fair weather and coasted along to the Westward The Land is high and full of ragged Hills and West from these ragged Hills the Land makes many pleasant and fruitful Valleys among the Mountains The 25th day we were abrest of a very remarkable Hill which towring above the rest of its fellows is divided in the top and makes two small parts It is in lat 18 d. 8 m. North. The Spaniards make mention of a Town called Thelupan near this Hill which we would have visited if we could have found the way to it The 26th day Captain Swan and Captain Townly with 200 Men of whom I was one went in our Canoas to seek for the City of Colima a rich place by report but how far within Land I could never learn for as I said before here is no Trade by Sea and therefore we could never get Guides to inform us or conduct us to any Town but one or two on this Coast and there is never a Town that lieth open to the Sea but Acapulco and therefore our search was commonly fruitless as now for we rowed above 20 leagues along shore and found it a very bad Coast to land we saw no House nor sign of Inhabitants although we past by a fine Valley called the Valley of Maguella only at two places the one at our first setting out on this Expedttion and the other at the end of it we saw a Horseman set as we supposed as a Centinel to watch us At both places we landed with difficulty and at each place we followed the track of the Horse on the sandy Bay but where they entered the Woods we lost the track and although we diligently searcht for it yet we could find it no more so we
which we did set here also our old one being very faulty They made a new Fore-Yard too and a Fore Top-Mast and our Pumps being faulty and not serviceable they did cut a Tree to make a Pump They first squared it then sawed it in the middle and then hollowed each side exactly The two hollow sides were made big enough to contain a Pump-box in the midst of them both when they were joyned together and it required their utmost skill to close them exactly to the making a tight Cylinder for the Pump-box being unaccustomed to such work We learnt this way of Pump-making from the Spaniards who make their Pumps that they use in their Ships in the South Seas after this manner and I am confident that there are no better Hand-pumps in the world than they have While we lay here the young Prince that I mentioned in Chapter the 13th came aboard He understanding that we were bound farther to the Southward desired us to transport him and his Men to his own Island He shewed it to us in our Draft and told us the Name of it which we put down in our Draft for it was not named there but I quite forgot to put it into my Journal This Man told us that not above 6 days before this he saw Captain Swan and several of his Men that we left there and named the Names of some of them who he said were all well and that now they were at the City of Mindanao but that they had been all of them out with Raja Laut fighting under him in his Wars against his Enemies the Alfoores and that most of them fought with undaunted Courage for which they were highly honored and esteemed as well by the Sultan as by the General Raja Laut That now Captain Swan intended to go with his Men to Fort St. George and that in order thereto he had proffered 40 ounces of Gold for a Ship but the Owner and he were not yet agreed and that he feared that the Sultan would not let go away till the Wars were ended All this the Prince told us in the Malayan tongue which many of us had learnt and when he went away he promised to return to us again in 3 days time and so long Captain Reed promised to stay for him for we had now almost finished our business and he seem'd very glad of the opportunity of going with us After this I endeavoured to perswade our Men to return with the Ship to the River of Mandanao and offer their service again to Captain Swan I took an opportunity when they were filling of Water there being then half the Ships Company ashore and I found these all very willing to do it I desired them to say nothing till I had tried the minds of the other half which I intended to do the next day it being their turn to fill Water then but one of these Men who seemed most forward to invite back Captain Swan told Captain Read and Captain Teat of the project and they presently disswaded the Men from any such designs Yet fearing the worst they made all possible haste to be gone I have since been informed that Captain Swan and his Men stayed there a great while afterward and that many of the Men got passage from thence in Dutch Sloops to Ternate particularly Mr. Rofy and Mr. Nelly There they remained a great while and at last got to Batavia where the Dutch took their Journals from them and so to Europe and that some of Captain Swan's Men died at Mindanao of which number Mr. Harthope and Mr. Smith Captain Swan's Merchants were two At last Captain Swan and his Surgeon going in a small Canoa aboard of a Dutch Ship then in the Road in order to get passage to Europe were overset by the Natives at the Mouth of the River who waited their coming purposely to do it but unsuspected by them where they both were kill'd in the Water This was done by the General 's Order as some think to get his Gold which he did immediately seize on Others say it was because the General 's House was burnt a little before and Captain Swan was suspected to be the Author of it and others say that it was Captain Swan's Threats occasioned his own Ruine for he would often say passionately that he had been abused by the General and that he would have satisfaction for it saying also that now he was well acquainted with their Rivers and knew how to come in at any time that he also knew their manner of fighting and the Weakness of their Country and therefore he wou'd go away and get a Band of Men to assist him and returning thither again he would spoil and take all that they had and their Country too When the General has been informed of these discourses he would say What is Captain Swan made of Iron and able to resist a whole Kingdom Or does he think that we are afraid of him that he speaks thus Yet did he never touch him till now the Mindanayans kill'd him It is very probable there might be somewhat of truth in all of this for the Captain was passionate and the General greedy of Gold But whatever was the occasion so he was kill'd as several have assured me and his Gold seiz'd on and all his things and his Journal also from England as far as Cape Corrientes on the Coast of Mexico This Journal was afterwards sent away from thence by Mr. Moody who was there both a little before and a little after the Murder and he sent it to England by Mr. Goddard Chief Mate of the Defence But to our purpose seeing I could not perswade them to go to Captain Swan again I had a great desire to have had the Prince's company but Captain Read was afraid to let his fickle crew lye long That very day that the Prince had promised to return to us which was November 2. 1687. we sailed hence directing our course South West and having the Wind at N. W. This Wind continued till we came in sight of the Island Celebes then it veered about to the W. and to the Southward of the West We came up with the N. E. end of the Island Celebes the 9th day and there we found the current setting to the Westward so strongly that we could hardly get on the East side of that Island The Island Celebes is a very large Island extended in length from North to South about 7 degrees of lat and in breadth it is about 3 degrees It lies under the Equator the North end being in lat 1 d. 30 m. North and the South end in lat 5 d. 30 m. South and by common account the North point in the bulk of this Island lies nearest North and South but at the North East end there runs out a long narrow point stretching N. E. about 30 leagues and about 30 leagues to the Eastward of this long Slipe is the Island Gilolo on the West
Coast of Portabell nor so frequent The Westerly winds in the Westerly wind season blow here tho not so strong nor lasting as on the Coasts of Cartagene and Portabell When we had spent some time here we return'd again towards the Coast of Cartagene and being between Rio Grande and that place we met with Westerly winds which kept us still to the Eastward of Cartagene 3 or 4 days and then in the morning we descryed a Sail off at Sea and we chaced her at noon Captain Wright who sailed best came up with her and engaged her and in half an hour after Captain Yanky who sailed better than the Tartan the Vessel that I was in came up with her likewise and laid her aboard then Captain Wright also and they took her before we came up They lost 2 or 3 men and had 7 or 8 wounded The Prize was a Ship of 12 Guns and 40 men who had all good small Arms She was laden with Sugar and Tobacco and had 8 or 10 Tuns of Marmalett on board She came from Saint Jago on Cuba and was bound to Cartagene We went back with her to Rio Grande to fix our Rigging which was shattered in the Fight and to consider what to do with her for these were commodities of little use to us and not worth going into a Port with At the Rio Grande Captain Wright demanded the Prize as his due by virtue of his Commission Captain Yanky said it was his due by the Law of Privateers Indeed Captain Wright had the most right to her having by his Commission protected Captain Yanky from the French who would have turned him out because he had no Commission and he likewise began to engage her first But the Company were all afraid that Captain Wright would presently carry her into a Port therefore most of Captain Wright's Men stuck to Captain Yanky and Captain Wright losing his Prize burned his own Bark and had Captain Yankys's it being bigger than his own the Tartan was sold to a Jamaica Trader and Captain Yanky commanded the Prize Ship We went again from hence to Rio la Hach and set the Prisoners ashore and it being now the beginning of November we concluded to go to Querisao to sell our Sugar if favoured by westerly Winds which were now come in We sailed from thence having fair weather and Winds to our mind which brought us to Querisao a Dutch Island Captain Wright went ashore to the Governour and offered him the Sale of the Sugar but the Governor told him he had a great Trade with the Spaniards therefore he could not admit us in there but if we would go to St. Thomas which is an Island and Free Port belonging to the Danes and a Sanctuary for Privateers he would send a Sloop with such Goods as we wanted and Money to buy the Sugar which he would take at a certain rate but it was not agreed to Querisao is the only Island of importance that the Dutch have in the West-Indies It is about 5 leagues in length and may be 9 or 10 in circumference the Northernmost point is laid down in North lat 12 d. 40 m. and it is about 7 or 8 leagues from the Main near Cape Roman On the South side of the East end is a good harbour called Santa Barbara but the chiefest harbour is about 3 leagues from the S. E. end on the South side of it where the Dutch have a very good Town and a very strong Fort. Ships bound in thither must be sure to keep close to the Harbour's mouth and have a Hasar or Rope ready to send one end ashore to the Fort for there is no Anchoring at the entrance of the Harbour and the Current always sets to the Westward But being got in it is a very secure Port for Ships either to Careen or lye safe At the East end are two hills one of them is much higher than the other and steepest toward the North side The rest of the Island is indifferent level where of late some rich Men have made Sugar works which formerly was all pasture for Cattle there are also some small Plantations of Potatoes and Yames and they have still a great many Cattle on the Island but it is not so much esteemed for its produce as for its situation for the Trade with the Spaniard Formerly the Harbour was never without Ships from Cartagenâ—… and Portabell that did use to buy of the Dutch here 1000 or 1500 Negroes at once besides great quantities of European Commodities but of late that Trade is fallen into the hands of the English at Jamaica yet still the Dutch have a vast Trade over all the West Indies sending from Holland Ships of good force laden with European goods whereby they make very profitable returns The Dutch have two other Islands here but of little moment in comparison of Querisao the one lieth 7 or 8 leagues to the Westward of Querisao called Aruba the other 9 or 10 leagues to the Eastward of it called Bon-Airy From these Islands the Dutch fetch in Sloops Provision for Querisao to maintain their Garrison and Negroes I was never at Aruba therefore cannot say any thing of it as to my own knowledge but by report it is much like Bon-Airy which I shall describe only not so big Between Querisao and Bon-Airy is a small Island called Little Querisao it is not above a league from Great Querisao The King of France has long had an eye on Querisao and made some attempts to take it but never yet succeeded I have heard that about 23 or 24 years since the Governour had sold it to the French but dy'd a small time before the Fleet came to demand it and by his death that design fail d. Afterwards in the year 1678 the Count D Estre who a year before had taken the Isle of Tobago from the Dutch was sent hither also with a Squadron of stout Ships very well mann'd and fitted with Bombs and Carcasses intending to take it by storm This Fleet first came to Martinico where while they stay'd orders were sent to Petit-Guavers for all Privateers to repair thither and assist the Count in his design There were but two Privateers Ships that went thither to him which were mann'd partly with French partly with English men These set out with the Count but in their way to Querisao the whole Fleet was lost on a Riff or Ridge of Rocks that runs off from the Isle of Aves not above two Ships escaping one of which was one of the Privateers and so that design perished Wherefore not driving a bargain for our Sugar with the Governour of Querisao we went from thence to Bon-Airy another Dutch Island where we met a Dutch Sloop come from Europe laden with Irish Beef which we bought in exchange for some of our Sugar Bon-Airy is the Eastermost of the Dutch Islands and is the largest of the three tho not the most considerable The middle of the Island is laid
is a Pond of brackish Water which sometimes Privateers use instead of better there is likewise good riding by it About a league from this are two other Islands not 200 yards distant from each other yet a deep Channel for Ships to pass through They are both overgrown with red Mangrove Trees which Trees above any of the Mangroves do flourish best in wet drowned Land such as these two Islands are only the East point of the Westernmost Island is dry Sand without Tree or Bush On this point we careened lying on the South side of it The other Islands are low and have red Mangroves and other Trees on them Here also Ships may ride but no such place for careening as where we lay because at that place Ships may hale close to the shore and if they have but four Guns on the point may secure the Channel and hinder any Enemy from coming near them I observ'd that within among the Islands was good riding in many places but not without the Islands except to the West-ward or S. West of them For on the East or N. E. of these Islands the common Trade-Wind blows and makes a great Sea and to the South-ward of them there is no ground under 70 80 or 100 fathom close by the Land After we had filled what Water we could from hence we set out again in April 1682. and came to Salt-Tortuga so called to distinguish it from the shoals of Dry Tortugas near Cape Florida and from the Isle of Tortugas by Hispaniola which was called formerly French Tortugas though not having heard any mention of that name a great while I am apt to think it is swallow'd up in that of Petit-Guavres the chief Garrison the French have in those parts This Island we arrived at is pretty large uninhabited and abounds with Salt It is in Lat. 11 degrees North and lyeth West and a little Northerly from Margarita an Island inhabited by the Spaniards strong and wealthy it is distant from it about 14 leagues and 17 or 18 from Cape Blanco on the Main A Ship being within these Islands a little to the South-ward may see at once the Main Margarita and Tortuga when it is clear weather The East end of Tortuga is full of rugged bare broken Rocks which stretch themselves a little way out to Sea At the S. E. part is an indifferent good Road for Ships much frequented in peaceable times by Merchant-ships that come hither to lade Salt in the months of May June July and August For at the East end is a large Salt-pond within 200 paces of the Sea The Salt begins to kern or grain in April except it is a dry season for it is observed that rain makes the Salt kern I have seen above 20 Sail at a time in this road come to lade Salt and these Ships coming from some of the Caribbe Islands are always well stored with Rum Sugar and Lime-juice to make Punch to hearten their Men when they are at work getting and bringing aboard the Salt and they commonly provide the more in hopes to meet with Privateers who resort hither in the aforesaid months purposely to keep a Christmas as they call it being sure to meet with Liquor enough to be merry with and are very liberal to those that treat them Near the West end of the Island on the South side there is a small Harbour and some fresh Water That end of the Island is full of shrubby Trees but the East end is rocky and barren as to Trees producing only course Grass There are some Goats on it but not many and Turtle or Tortise come upon the sandy Bays to lay their Eggs and from them the Island hath its Name There is no riding any where but in the Road where the Salt-Ponds are or in the Harbour At this Isle we thought to have sold our Sugar among the English Ships that come hither for Salt but failing there we design'd for Trinidada an Island near the Main inhabited by the Spaniards tolerably strong and wealthy but the Current and Easterly Winds hindering us we passed through between Margarita and the Main and went to Blanco a pretty large Island almost North of Margarita about 30 leagues from the Main and in 11 d. 50 m. North Lat. It is a flat even low uninhabited Island dry and healthy most Savanah of long Grass and hath some Trees of Lignum Vitae growing in Spots with shrubby Bushes of other Wood about them It is plentifully stored with Guano s which are an Animal like a Lizard but much bigger The body is as big as the small of a mans leg and from the hind quarter the tail grows tapering to the end which is very small If a Man takes hold of the tail except very near the hind quarter it will part and breakoff in one of the joints and the Guano will get away They lay Eggs as most of those amphibious creatures do and are very good to eat Their flesh is much esteemed by Privateers who commonly dress them for their sick men for they make very good Broath They are of divers colours as almost black dark brown light brown dark green light green yellow and speckled They all live as well in the Water as on Land and some of them are constantly in the Water and among Rocks These are commonly black Others that live in swampy wet ground are commonly on Bushes and Trees these are green But such as live in dry ground as here at Blanco are commonly yellow yet these also will live in the Water and are sometimes on Trees The Road is on the N. W. end against a small Cove or little sandy Bay There is no riding any where else for it is deep water and steep close to the Land There is one small Spring on the West side and there are sandy Bays round the Island where Turtle or Tortoise come up in great abundance going ashore in the night These that frequent this Island are called green Turtle and they are the best of that sort both for largeness and sweetness of any in all the West Indies I would here give a particular description of these and other sorts of Turtle in these Seas but because I shall have occasion to mention some other sorts of Turtle when I come again into the South Seas that are very different from all these I shall there give a general account of all these several sorts at once that the difference between them may be the better discerned Some of our modern Descriptions speak of Goats on this Island I know not what there may have been formerly but there are none now to my certain knowledge for my self and many more of our Crew have been all over it Indeed these parts have undergone great changes in this last age as well in places themselves as in their Owners and Commodities of them particularly Nombre de Dios a City once famous and which still retains a considerable name in some late
sooner to mutiny than want which we could not well suffer in a place where there are such quantities of these Animals to be had if Men could be perswaded to be contented with them In the afternoon we sailed from Lobos de Terra with the Wind at S. by E. and arrived at Lobos de la Mar on the 19th day Here we found a Letter left by our Bark that was sent to seek Captain Eaton by which we understood that Captain Eaton had been there but was gone before they arriv'd and had left no Letter to advise us which way he was gone and that our Bark was again returned to Plata in hopes to find us there or meet us by the way else resolving to stay for us there We were sorry to hear that Captain Eaton was gone for now we did not expect to meet with him any more in these Seas The 21st day we sent out our Moskito Strikers for Turtle who brought aboard enough to serve both Ships Companies and this they did all the time that we abode here While we lay at this Island Captain Swan made new yards squarer than those he had before and made his Sails larger and our Ships Company in the mean time split plank for Fire-wood and put aboard as many plank as we could conveniently stow for other uses Here being plank enough of all sorts which we had brought hither in the first Prize that we took and left here The 26th day in the evening we saw a small Bark about 3 leagues N. N. W. from the Island but we supposing her to be our own Bark did not go after her The next morning she was 2 leagues South of the Island standing off to Sea but we did not now chace her neither although we knew she was not our Bark for being to Windward of us she could have made her escape if we had chased her This Bark as we were afterward informed was sent out purposely to see if we were at this Island Her orders were not to come too near only to appear in sight they supposing that if we were here we should soon be after her as indeed it was a wonder we had not chaced her but our not doing so and lying close under the Island undiscern d by them was a great occasion of our coming upon Puna afterwards unexpectedly they being now without fear of any Enemy so near them The 28th day we scrubb d our Ships bottoms intending to sail the next day towards Guiaquil it being concluded upon to attempt that Town before we returned again to Plata Accordingly on the 29th day in the morning we loosed from hence steering directly for the Bay of Guiaquil This Bay runs in between Cape Blanco on the South side and Point Chandy on the North. About 25 leagues from Cape Blanco near the bottom of the Bay there is a small Island called Santa Clara which lies East and West It is of an indifferent length and it appears like a dead Man stretched out in a Shroud The East end represents the Head and the West end the Feet Ships that are bound into the Riveâ—… of Guiaquil pass on the South side to avoid the sholes which lie on the North side of it whereon formerly Ships have been lost It is reported by the Spaniards that there is a very rich Wreck lies on the North side of that Island not far from it and that some of the Plate hath been taken up by one who came from Old Spain with a Patent from the King to fish in those Seas for Wrecks but he dying the Project ceas'd and the Wreck still remains as he left it only the Indians by stealth do sometimes take up some of it and they might have taken up much more if it were not for the Catfish which swarm hereabouts The Catfish is much like a Whiting but the Head is flatter and bigger It hath a great wide Mouth and certain small Strings pointing out from each side of it like Cats Whiskers and for that reason it is called a Catfish It hath three Fins one growing on the top of his back and one on either side Each of these Fins hath a stiff sharp bone which is very venemous if it strikes into a mans flesh therefore it is dangerous diving where many of these Fish are The Indians that adventured to search this wreck have to their sorrow experienc'd it some having lost their lives others the use of their limbs by it this we were informed by an Indian who himself had been fishing on it by stealth I my self have known some white men that have lost the use of their hands only by a small prick with the fin of these Fish therefore when we catch them with a Hook we tread on them to take the Hook out of their mouths for otherwise in flurting about as all Fish will when first taken they might accidentally strike their sharp Fins into the hands of those that caught them Some of these Fish are 7 or 8 pound weight some again in some particular places are none of them bigger than a Man's Thumb but their Fins are all alike venemous They use to be at the mouths of Rivers or where there is much Mud and Oaze and they are found all over the American Coast both in the North and South Seas at least in the hot Countreys as also in the East Indies where sailing with Captain Minchin among certain Islands near the Streights of Malacca he pointed to an Island at which he told me he lost the use of his hand by one of these only in going to take the Hook out of its mouth The wound was scarce visible yet his Hand was much swoln and the pain lasted about 9 weeks during most part of which the raging heat of it was almost ready to distract him However though the bony Fins of these Fish are so venemous yet the Bones in their bodies are not so at least we never perceived any such effect in eating the Fish and their Flesh is very sweet delicious and wholesome Meat From the Island Santa Clara to Punta Arena is 7 leagues E. N. E. This Punta Arena or Sandy Point is the westermost point of the Island Puna Here all Ships bound into the River of Guiaquil anchor and must wait for a Pilot the entrance being very dangerous for Strangers The Island Puna is a pretty large flat low Island stretching East and West about 12 or 14 leagues long and about 4 or 5 leagues wide The Tide runs very strong all about this Island but so many different ways by reason of the Branches Creeks and Rivers that run into the Sea near it that it casts up many dangerous sholes on all sides of it There is in the Island only one Indian Town on the South side of it close by the Sea and 7 leagues from Point Arena which Town is also called Puna The Indians of this Town are all Seamen and are the only Pilots in these Seas especially for
We were 2 Ships and 3 Barks in Company viz. Captain Davis Captain Swan a Fireship and 2 small Barks as Tenders one on Captain Davis his Ship the other on Captain Swan's We weighed before day and got out all but Captain Swan's Tender which never budged for the men were all asleep when we went out and the Tide of flood coming on before they waked we were forced to stay for them till the next day The 8th day in the morning we descried a sail to the West of us the Wind was at South and we chased her and before noon took her She was a Ship of about 90 Tun laden with Flower she came from Truxillio and was bound to Panama This Ship came very opportunely to us for Flower began to grow scarce and Captain Davis his men grudg'd at what was given to Captain Swan who as I said before had none but what he had from Captain Davis We jogged on after this with a gentle gale towards Gorgonia an Island lying about 25 leagues from the Island Gallo The 9th day we anchored at Gorgonia on the West side of the Island in 38 fathom clean ground not 2 Cables length from the shore Gorgonia is an uninhabited Island in lat about 3 degrees North It is a pretty high Island and very remarkable by reason of 2 saddles or risings and fallings on the top It is about 2 leagues long and a league broad and it is 4 leagues from the Main At the west-West-end is another small Island The Land against the Anchoring place is low there is a small sandy Bay and good landing The Soil or Mold of it is black and deep in the low ground but on the side of the high Land it is a kind of a red clay This Island is very well cloathed with large Trees of several sorts that are flourishing and green all the year It 's very well watered with small Brooks that issue from the high Land Here are a great many little black Monkeys some Indian Conies and a few Snakes which are all the Land Animals that I know there It is reported of this Island that it rains on every day in the year more or less but that I can disprove however it is a very wet Coast and it rains abundantly here all the year long There are but few fair days for there is little difference in the seasons of the year between the wet and dry only in that season which should be the dry time the rains are less frequent and more moderate than in the wet season for then it pours as out of a Sieve It is deep water and no anchoring any where about this Island only at that West side The Tyde riseth and falleth 7 or 8 foot up and down Here are a great many Perewincles and Muscles to be had at low water Then the Monkeys come down by the Sea side and catch them digging them out of their Shells with their Claws Here are Pearl-Oysters in great plenty They grow to the loose Rocks in 4 5 or 6 fathom water by beards or little small roots as a Muscle These Oysters are commonly flatter and thinner than other Oysters otherwise much alike in shape The fish is not sweet nor very wholsome it is as slimy as a Shell-Snail they taste very copperish if eaten raw and are best boyl'd The Indians who gather them for the Spaniards hang the meat of them on strings like Jews-ears and dry them before they eat them The Pearl is found at the head of the Oyster lying between the meat and the shell Some will have 20 or 30 small Seed-Pearl some none at all and some will have 1 or 2 pretty large ones The inside of the shell is more glorious than the Pearl itfelf I did never see any in the South Seas but here It is reported there are some at the South end of Callifornia In the West Indies the Rancho Rejs or Rancheria spoken of in Chap. 3. is the place where they are found most plentifully 'T is said there are some at the Island Margarita near St. Augustin a Town in the Gulf of Florida c. In the East Indies The Island Ainam near the South end of China is said to have plenty of these Oysters more productive of large round Pearl than those in other other places They are found also in other parts of the East Indies on the Persian Coast. At this Island Gorgona we rummaged our Prize and found a few Boxes of Marmalade and 3 or 4 Jars of Brandy which were equally shared between Captain Davis Captain Swan and their Men. Here we fill'd all our Water and Captain Swan furnished himself with Flower afterward we turned ashore a great many Prisoners but kept the chiefest to put them ashore in a better place The 13th day we sailed from hence toward the Kings Islands We were now 6 Sail 2 Men of War 2 Tenders a Fireship and the Prize We had but little Wind but what we had was the common Trade at South The Land we sailed by on the Main is very low towards the Sea side but in the Country there are very high Mountains The 16th day we passed by Cape Corrientes This Cape is in lat 5 d. 10 m. it is high bluff Land with 3 or 4 small Hillocks on the top It appears at a distance like an Island Here we found a strong current running to the North but whether it be always so I know not The day after we passed by the Cape we saw a small white Island which we chased supposing it had been a Sail till coming near we found our error The 21st day we saw Point Garrachina This Point is in lat 7 d. 20 m. North it is pretty high Land rocky and destitute of Trees yet within Land it is Woody It is fenced with Rocks against the Sea Within the Point by the Sea at low Water you may find store of Oysters and Muscles The Kings Islands or Pearl Keys are about 12 leagues distant from this Point Between Point Garqchina and them there is a small low flat barren Island called Gallera at which Captain Harris was sharing with his Men the Gold he took in his pillaging Sancta Maria which I spake of a little before when on a sudden 5 Spanish Barks fitted out on purpose at Panama came upon him but he fought them so stoutly with one small Bark he had and some few Canoas boarding their Admiral particularly that they were all glad to leave him By this Island we anchored and sent our Boats to the Kings Islands for a a good careening place The Kings Islands are a great many low woody Islands lying N. W. by N. and S. E. by S. They are about 7 leagues from the Main and 14 leagues in length and from Panama about 12 leagues Why they are called the Kings Islands I know not they are sometimes and mostly in Maps called the Pearl Islands I cannot imagin wherefore they are called so for I did
Besides this present from the Governour there was a Captain of a Jonk sent two Jars of Arack and abundance of Pine-apples and Water-melons Captain Read sent ashore as a Present to the Governour a curious Spanish Silver-hilted Rapier an English Carbine and a Gold Chain and when the Officer went ashore three Guns were fired In the afternoon the Governour sent off the same Officer again to complement the Captain for his civility and promised to retaliate his kindness before we departed but we had such blustring weather afterward that no Boat could come aboard We stayed here till the 29th day and then sailed from hence with the wind at S. W. and pretty fair weather We now directed our course for some Islands we had chosen to go to that lye between Formosa and Luconia They are laid down in our plots without any name only with a figure of 5 denoting the number of them It was supposed by us that these Islands had no Inhabitants because they had not any name by our Hydographers Therefore we thought to lye there secure and be pretty near the Island Luconia which we did still intend to visit In going to them we sailed by the South West end of Formosa leaving it on our larboard side This is a large Island the South end is in lat 21 d. 20 m. and the North end in 25 d. 10 m. North lat the longitude of this Isle is laid down from 142 d. 5 m. to 143 d. 16 m. reckoning East from the pike of Tenariffe so that 't is but narrow and the Tropick of Cancer crosses it It is a high and woody Island and was formerly well inhabited by the Chinese and was then frequently visited by English Merchants there being a very good Harbour to secure their Ships But since the Tartars have conquered China they have spoiled the Harbour as I have been informed to hinder the Chinese that were then in Rebellion from fortifying themselves there and ordered the foreign Merchants to come and trade on the Main The 6th day of August we arrived at the five Islands that we were bound to and anchored on the East side of the Northermost Island in 15 fathom a Cables length from the shore Here contrary to our expectation we found abundance of Inhabitants in sight for there were 3 large Towns all within a league of the Sea and another larger Town than any of the three on the back side of a small hill close by also as we found afterwards These Islands lye in lat 20 d. 20 m. North lat by my observation for I took it there and I find their Longitude according to our Drafts to be 141 d. 50 m. These Islands having no particular Names in the Drafts some or other of us made use of the Seamens priviledge to give them what names we pleased Three of the Islands were pretty large the Westermost is the biggest This the Dutch men who were among us called the Prince of Orange's Island in honour of his present Majesty It is about 7 or 8 leagues long and about 2 leagues wide and it lies almost N. and S. The other two great Islands are about 4 or 5 leagues to the Eastward of this The Northermost of them where we first anchored I called the D. of Grafton's Isle as soon as we landed on it having married my Wife out of his Dutchess's Family and leaving her at Arlington house at my going aboard This Isle is about 4 leagues long and one league and a half wide stretching North and South The other great Isle our Seamen called the Duke of Monmouth's Island This is about a league to the Southward of Grafton Isle It is about 3 leagues long and a league wide lying as the other Between Monmouth and the South end of Orange Island there are two small Islands of a roundish form lying East and West The Eastermost Island of the two our men unanimously called Bashee Island from a Liquor which we drank there plentifully every day after we came to an anchor at it The other which is the smallest of all we called Goat Island from the great number of Goats there and to the Northward of them all are two high Rocks Orange Island which is the biggest of them all is not inhabited It is high Land flat and even on the top with steep cliffs against the Sea for which reason we could not go ashore there as we did on all the rest I have made it my general observation that where the Land is fenced with steep Rocks and Cliffs against the Sea there the Sea is very deep and seldom affords anchor ground and on the other side where the Land falls away with a declivity into the Sea altho the Land be exrraordinary high within yet there are commonly good soundings and consequently anchoring and as the visible declivity of the Land appears near or at the edge of the Water whether pretty steep or more sloping so we commonly find our anchor ground to be more or less deep or steep therefore we came nearer the shore or anchor farther off as we see convenient for there is no Coast in the World that I know or have heard of where the Land is of a continual heighth without some small Valleys or declivities which lye intermixt with the high Land They are these subsidings of Valleys or low Lands that make dents in the shore and Creeks small Bays and Harbours or little Coves c. which afford good anchoring the surface of the Earth being there lodged deep under Water Thus we find many good Harbours on such Coasts where the Land bounds the Sea with steep Clifs by reason of the Declivities or subsiding of the Land between these Cliffs But where the Declension from the Hills or Cliffs is not within Land between Hill and Hill but as on the Coast of Chili and Peru the Declivity is toward the Main Sea or into it the Coast being perpendicular or very steep from the neighbouring Hills as in those Countries from the Andes that run along the shore there is a deep Sea and few or no Harbours or Creeks All that Coast is too steep for anchoring and hath the fewest Roads fit for Ships of any Coast I know The Coasts of Gallicia Portugal Norway and Newfoundland c. are Coasts like the Peruvian and the high Islands of the Archipelago but yet not so scanty of good Harbours for where there are short Ridges of Land there are good Bays at the extremities of those Ridges where they plunge into the Sea as on the Coast of Caraccos c. The Island of John Fernando and the Island St. Helena c. are such high Land with deep shore and in general the plunging of any Land under Water seems to be in proportion to the rising of its continuous part above Water more or less steep and it must be a bottom almost level or very gently declining that affords good anchoring Ships being soon driven from their Moorings on
men that was left ashore I shall speak more of him hereafter He and the rest of them told me that after the Ship was out of sight the Natives began to be more kind to them than they had been before and perswaded them to cut their Hair short as theirs was offering to each of them if they would do it a young Woman to Wife and a small Hatchet and other Iron Utenfils fit for a Planter in Dowry and withal shewed them a piece of Land for them to manage They were courted thus by several of the Town where they then were but they took up their head-quarters at the house of him with whom they first went ashore When the Ship appeared in sight again then they importuned them for some Iron which is the chief thing that they covet even above their Ear-rings We might have bought all their Ear-rings or other Gold they had with our Iron-bars had we been assur'd of its goodness and yet when it was touch'd and compared with other Gold we could not discern any difference tho it look'd so pale in the lump but the seeing them polish it so often was a new discouragement This last Storm put our Men quite out of heart for although it was not altogether so fierce as that which we were in on the Coast of China which was still fresh in memory yet it wrought more powerfully and frighted them from their design of cruising before Manila fearing another Storm there Now every Man wisht himself at home as they had done an hundred times before but Captain Reed and Captain Teat the Master perswaded them to go towards Cape Comorin and then they would tell them more of their minds intending doubtless to cruize in the Red Sea and they easily prevailed with the Crew The Eastern Monsoon was now at hand and the best way had been to go through the Streights of Malacca but Captain Teat said it was dangerous by reason of many Islands and Shoals there with which none of us were acquainted Therefore he thought it best to go round on the East side of all the Philippine Islands and so keeping South toward the Spice Islands to pass out into the East Indian Ocean about the Island Timor This seemed to be a very tedious way about and as dangerous altogether for Sholes but not for meeting with English or Dutch Ships which was their greatest fear I was well enough satisfied knowing that the farther we went the more Knowledge and Experience I should get which was the main thing that I regarded and should also have the more variety of places to attempt an Escape from them being fully resolv'd to take the first opportunity of giving them the slip CHAP. XVI They depart from the Bashee Islands and passing by some others and the N. End of Luconia St. John's Isle and other of the Philippines they stop at the two Isles near Mindanao where they re-fit their Ship and make a Pump after the Spanish fashion By the young Prince of the Spice-Island they have News of Captain Swan and his men left at Mindanao The Author proposes to the Crew to return to him but in vain the story of his Murder at Mindanao The Clove-Islands Ternate Tidore c. The Island Celebes and Dutch Town of Macasser They Coast along the East side of Celebes and between it and other Islands and Sholes with great Difficulty Shy Turtle Vast Cookles A wild Vine of great Virtue for Sores Great Trees one excessively big Beacons instead of Buoys on the Sholes A Spout a Description of them with a story of one Uncertain Tornadoes Turtle The Island Bouton and its chief Town and Harbour Callasusung The Inhabitants Visits given and receiv'd by the Sultan His Device in the Flag of his Proe his Guards Habit and Children Their Commerce Their different esteem as they pretend of the English and Dutch Maritime Indians sell others for Slaves Their Reception in the Town A Boy with 4 Rows of Teeth Parakites Crockadores a sort of White Parrots They pass among other Inhabited Islands Omba Pentare Timor c. Sholes New-Holland laid down too much Northward It s Soil and Dragon trees The poor Winking Inhabitants their Features Habit Food Arms c. The way of fetching Fire out of Wood. The Inhabitants on the Islands Their Habitations Unfitness for Labour c. The great Tides here They design for the Island Cocos and Cape Comorin THE third day of October 1687. we sailed from these Islands standing to the Southward intending to sail through among the Spice Islands We had fair weather and the wind at West We first steered S. S. W. and passed close by certain small Islands that lye just by the North end of the Island Luconia We left them all on the West of us and past on the East side of it and the rest of the Philippine Islands coasting to rhe Southward The N. East end of the Island Luconia appears to be good Champion Land of an indifferent heighth plain and even for many leagues only it has some pretty high Hills standing upright by themselves in these Plains but no ridges of Hills or chains of Mountains joyning one to another The Land on this side seems to be most Savannah or Pasture The S. E. part is more Mountainous and Woody Leaving the Island Luconia and with it our Golden projects we sailed on the Southward passing on the East side of the rest of the Philippine Islands These appear to be more Mountainous and less Woody till we came in sight of the Island St. John the first of that name I mentioned the other I spake of on the Coast of China This I have already described to be a very woody Island Here the Wind coming Southerly forced us to keep farther from the Islands The 14th day of October we came close by a small low Woody Island that lyeth East from the S. E. end of Mindanao distant from it about 20 leagues I do not find it set down in any Sea-Chart The 15th day we had the Wind at N. E. and we steered West for the Island Mindanao and arrived at the S. E. end again on the 16th day There we went in and anchored between two small Islands which lye in about 5 d. 10 m. N. Lat. I mentioned them when we first came on this Coast. Here we found a fine small Cove on the N. W. end of the Eastermost Island fit to Careen in or hale ashore so we went in there and presently unrigged our Ship and provided to hale our Ship ashore to clean her bottom These Islands are about 3 or 4 leagues from the Island Mindanao they are about 4 or 5 miles in circumference and of a pretty good heighth The mold is black and deep and there are two small Brooks of fresh Water They are both plentifully stored with great high Trees therefore our Carpenters were sent ashore to cut down some of them for our use for here they made a new Boltsprit
side of which are 4 small Islands close by it which are very well stored with Cloves The two chiefest are Ternate and Tidore and as the Isle of Ceylon is reckoned the only place for Cinnamon and that of Banda for Nutmegs so these are thought by some to be the only Clove Islands in the World but this is a great error as I have already shewn At the South end of the Island Celebes there is a Sea or Gulph of about 7 or 8 leagues wide and 40 or 50 long which runs up the Countrey almost directly to the North and this Gulph hath several small Islands along the middle of it On the West side of the Island almost at the South end of it the Town of Macasser is seated A Town of great Strength and Trade belonging to the Dutch There are great Inlets and Lakes on the East side of the Island as also abundance of small Islands and sholes lying scattered about it We saw a high peeked Hill at the N. end but the Land on the East side is low all along for we cruized almost the length of it The mold on this side is black and deep and extraordinary fat and rich and full of Trees and there are many Brooks of Water run out into the Sea Indeed all this East side of the Island seems to be but one large Grove of extraordinary great high Trees Having with much ado got on this East side coasting along to the Southward and yet having but little Wind and even that little against us at S. S. W. and sometimes Calm we were a long time going about the Island The 22d day we were in Lat. 1 d. 20 m. South and being about 3 leagues from the Island standing to the Southward with a very gentle Land wind about 2 or 3 a clock in the morning we heard a clashing in the Water like Boats rowing and fearing some sudden attack we got up all our Arms and stood ready to defend our selves As soon as it was day we saw a great Proe built like the Mindanayan Proe's with about 60 men in her and 6 smaller Proe's They lay still about a mile to Windward of us to view us and probably design'd to make a prey of us when they first came out but they were now afraid to venture on us At last we shewed them Dutch Colours thinking thereby to allure them to come to us for we could not go to them but they presently rowed in toward the Island and went into a large opening and we saw them no more nor did we ever see any other Boats or Men but only one fishing Canoa while we were about this Island neither did we see any House on all the Coast. About 5 or 6 leagues to the South of this place there is a great Range of both large and small Islands and many shoals also that are not laid down in our Drafts which made it extreamly troublesom for us to get through But we past between them all and the Island Celebes and anchored against a sandy Bay in 8 fathom sandy ground about half a mile from the main Island being then in lat 1 d. 50 m. South Here we stayed several days and sent out our Canoas a striking of Turtle every day for here is great plenty of them but they were very shy as they were generally where-ever we found them in the East India Seas I know not the reason of it unless the Natives go very much a striking here for even in the West Indies they are shy in places that are much disturbed and yet on New Holland we found them shy as I shall relate though the Natives there do not molest them On the sholes without us we went and gathered Shell-fish at low water There were a monstrous sort of Cockles the Meat of one of them would suffice 7 or 8 Men. It was very good wholsom Meat We did also beat about in the Woods on the Island but found no game One of our Men who was always troubled with sore Legs found a certain Vine that supported it self by climbing about other Trees The leaves reach'd 6 or 7 feet high but the strings or branches 11 or 12. It had a very green leaf pretty broad and roundish and of a thick substance These leaves pounded small and boiled with Hogs Lard make an excellent Salve Our Men knowing the vertues of it stockt themselves here there was scarce a Man in the Ship but got a pound or two of it especially such as were troubled with old Ulcers who found great benefit by it This Man that discovered these leaves here had his first knowledge of them in the Isthmus of Darien he having had this Receipt from one of the Indians there and he had been ashore in divers places since purposely to seek these leaves but did never find any but here Among the many vast Trees hereabouts there was one exceeded all the rest This Captain Read caused to be cut down in order to make a Canoa having lost our Boats all but one small one in the late Storms so 6 lusty Men who had been Logwood cutters in the Bays of Campeachy and Honduras as Captain Read himself and many more of us had and so were very expert at this work undertook to fell it taking their turns 3 always cutting together and they were one whole day and half the next before they got it down This Tree though it grew in a Wood was yet 18 foot in circumference and 44 foot of clean body without knot or branch and even there it had no more than one or two branches and then ran clean again 10 foot higher there it spread it self into many great limbs and branches like an Oak very green and flourishing yet it was perisht at the heart which marr'd it for the service intended So leaving it and having no more business here we weighed and went from hence the next day it being the 29th day of November While we lay here we had some Tornadoes one or two every day and pretty fresh Land Winds which were at West The Sea breezes were small and uncertain sometimes out of the N. E. and so veering about to the East and South East We had the Wind at North East when we weighed and we steered off S. S. W. In the afternoon we saw a shole a head of us and altered our course to the S. S. E. In the evening at 4 a clock we were close by another great shole therefore we tackt and stood in for the Island Celebes again for fear of running on some of the sholes in the night By day a Man might avoid them well enough for they had all Beacons on them like Huts built on tall Posts above high-water mark probably set up by the Natives of the Island Celebes or those of some other neighbouring Islands and I never saw any such elsewhere In the night we had a violent Tornado out of the S. W. which lasted about an hour The 30th day
or 8 leagues from the Island Sumatra on the West side of it we saw abundance of Coco Nuts swimming in the Sea and we hoysed out our Boat and took up some of them as also a small Hatch or Scuttle rather belonging to some Bark The Nuts were very sound and the Kernel sweet and in some the Milk or Water in them was yet sweet and good The 13th day we came to a small Island called Triste in Lat. by observation 4 d. South it is about 14 or 15 leagues to the West of the Island Sumatra From hence to the Northward there are a great many small uninhabited Islands lying much at the same distance from Sumatra This Island Triste is not a mile round and so low that the Tide flows clear over it It is of a sandy soil and full of Coco-nut Trees The Nuts are but small yet sweet enough full and more ponderous than I ever felt any of that bigness notwithstanding that every Spring-tide the Salt water goes clear over the Island We sent ashore our Canoas for Coco-nuts and they return'd aboard laden with them three times Our Strikers also went out and struck some Fish which was boiled for Supper They also killed 2 young Aligators which we salted for the next day I had no opportunity at this place to make my Escape as I would have done and gone over hence to Sumatra could I have kept a Boat with me But there was no compassing this and so the 15th day we went from hence steering to the Northward on the West side of Sumatra Our Food now was Rice and the Meat of the Coco-nuts rasped and steep'd in water which made a sort of Milk into which we did put our Rice making a pleasant Mess enough After we parted from Triste we saw other small Islands that were also full of Coco-nut Trees The 19th day being in Lat. 3 d. 25 m. S. the S. W. point of the Island Nassau bore N. about 5 mile dist This is a pretty large uninhabited Island in Lat. 3 d. 20 m. S. and is full of high Trees About a mile from the Island Nassau there is a small Island full of Coco-nut Trees There we anchored the 20th day to replenish our stock of Coco-nut Trees A 〈◊〉 riff of Rocks lies almost round this Island so that our Boats could not go ashore nor come aboard at low water yet we got aboard 4 Boat loads of Nuts This Island is low like Triste and the anchoring is on the North side where you have 14 fathom a mile from shore clean sand The 21st day we went from hence and kept to the Northward coasting still on the West side of the Island Sumatra and having the winds between the W. and S. S. W. with unsettled weather sometimes Rains and Tornadoes and sometimes fair weather The 25th day we crost the Equator still coasting to the Northward between the Island Sumatra and a range of small Islands lying 14 or 15 leagues off it Among all these Islands Hog Island is the most considerable It lies in lat 3 d. 40. m. North. It is pretty high even Land cloathed with tall flourishing Trees we past by it the 28th day The 29th we saw a sail to the North of us which we chased but it being little wind we did not come up with her till the 30th day Then being within a league of her Captain Read went in a Canoa and took her and brought her aboard She was a Proe with 4 men in her belonging to Achin whither she was bound She came from one of these Coco-nut Islands that we past by and was laden with Coco-nuts and Goco-nut Oil. Captain Read ordered his men to take aboard all the Nuts and as much of the Oyl as he thought convenient and then cut a hole in the bottom of the Proe and turned her loose keeping the men Prisoners It was not for the lucre of the Cargo that Captain Read took this Boat but to hinder me and some others from going ashore for he knew that we were ready to make our escapes if an opportunity presented it self and he thought that by his abusing and robbing the Natives we should be afraid to trust our selves among them But yet this proceeding of his turned to our great advantage as shall be declared hereafter May the 1st we ran down by the North West end of the Island Sumatra within 7 or 8 leagues of the shore All this West side of Sumatra which we thus coasted along our Englishmen at Fort St. George call the West Coast simply without adding the name of Sumatra The Prisoners who were taken the day before shewed us the Islands that lye off of Achin Harbour and the Channels through which Ships go in and told us also that there was an English Factory at Achin I wisht my self there but was forced to wait with patience till my time was come We were now directing our course towards the Nicobar Islands intending there to clean the Ship 's bottom in order to make her sail well The 4th day in the evening we had sight of one of the Nicobar Islands The Southermost of them lies about 40 leagues N. N. W. from rhe N. W. end of the Island Sumatra This most Southerly of them is Nicobar it self but all the cluster of Islands lying South of the Audeman Islands are called by our Seamen the Nicobar Islands The Inhabitants of these Islands have no certain converse with any Nation but as Ships pass by them they will come aboard in their Proes and offer their Commodities to sale never inquiring of what Nation they are for all white people are alike to them Their chiefest Commodities are Ambergrease and Fruits Ambergrease is often found by the Native Indians of these Islands who know it very well as also know how to cheat ignorant Strangers with a certain mixture like it Several of our men bought such of them for a small purchase Captain Weldon also about this time touched at some of these Islands to the North of the Island where we lay and I saw a great deal of such Ambergrease that one of his men bought there but it was not good having no smell at all Yet I saw some there very good and fragrant At that Island where Captain Weldon was there were 2 Fryers sent thither to convert the Indians One of them came away with Captain Weldon the other remained there still He that came away with Captain Weldon gave a very good character of the Inhabitants of that Island viz. that they were very honest civil harmless People that they were not addicted to Quarrelling Theft or Murder that they did marry or at least live as Man and Wife one Man with one Woman never changing till Death made the separation that they were punctual and honest in performing their Bargains and that they were inclined to receive the Christian Religion This Relation I had afterwards from the mouth of a Priest at Tonqueen who told me that he
Islands lying in the Lat. of about 23 d. North and distant from the Coast of Jucatan about 25 Leagues the biggest is not above a Mile or two in Circuit They are distant from one another 2 or 3 Miles not lying in a Line but soattering here and there with good Channels of 20 or 30 Fathom Water for a Ship to pass between All of them have good Anchoring on the West sides where you may ride in what depths you please from 10 to 2 Fathom Water clean sandy Ground On some there are a few low Bushes of Burton-Wood but they are mostly Barren and Sandy bearing nothing but only a little Chicken-Weed neither have they any fresh Water Their Land-Animals are only large Rats which are in great Plenty and of Fowls Boobies in vast abundance with Men of War and Egg-Birds These inhabit only on some of the Northermost of them not promiscuously one among another but each sort within their own Precincts viz. the Boobies and the other two sorts each a-part by themselves and thus two or three of the Islands are wholly taken up The Boobies being most numerous have the greatest portion of Land The Egg-Birds tho' they are many yet being but small take up but little room to the rest Yet in that little part which they inhabit they are sole Masters and not disturbed by their Neighbours All three sorts are very tame especially the Boobies and so thick settled that a Man cannot pass through their Quarters without coming within reach of their Bills with which they continually peck't at us I took notice that they sate in Pairs and therefore at first thought them to be Cock and Hen but upon striking at them one flew away from each place and that which was left behind seemed as malicious as the other that was gone I admired at the boldness of those that did not fly away and used some sort of violence to force them but in vain for indeed these were young Ones and had not yet learned the use of their Wings tho' they were as big and as well feathered as their Dams only their Feathers were something whiter and fresher I took notice that an old one either the Cock or Hen always sat with the Young to secure them for otherwise these Fowls would prey on each other the Strong on the Weak at least those of a different Kind would make bold with their Neighbours The Men-of-War-Birds as well as the Boobies left Guardians to the Young when they went off to Sea lest they should be starved by their Neighbours for there were a great many old and lame Men of War Birds that could not fly off to Sea to seek their own Food These did not inhabit among their Consorts but were either expelled the Community or else chose to lye out at some distance from the rest and that not altogether but scattering here and there where they could rob securest I saw near 20 of them on one of the Islands which sometimes would sally into the Camp to seek for Booty but presently retreated again whether they got any thing or nothing If one of these lame Birds found a Young Booby not guarded it presently gave him a good poult on the back with his Bill to make him disgorge which they will do with one stroak and it may be cast up a Fish or two as big as a Mans Wrist this they swallow in a trice and march off and look out for another Prize The sound Men-of-War will sometimes serve the old Boobies so off at Sea I have seen a Man-of-War fly directly at a Booby and give it one blow which has caused it to cast up a large Fish and the Man of War flying directly down after it has taken it in the Air before it reach'd the Water There are abundance of Fish at some distance from these Islands by which the Fowls inhabiting here are daily supplied The Fish near the Island are Sharks Sword Fishes and Nurses all three sorts delighting to be near sandy Bays those that I saw here were but of a small size the Sword-Fish not above a Foot and a half or two Foot long neither were the Sharks much longer and the Nurses about the same length The Nurse is just like a Shark only its skin is rougher and is used for making the finest Rasps Here are many Seals they come up to sun themselves only on two or three of the Islands I don't know whether exactly of the same kind with those in colder Climates but as I have noted in my former Book they always live where there is plenty of Fish To the North of these Islands lyes a long ledge of Rocks bending like a Bow it seems to be 10 or 12 Yards wide and about 4 Leagues long and 3 Leagues distant from the Island They are above Water all joyning very close to one another except at one or two Places where are small Passages about nine or ten Yards Wide 't was through one of these that Providence directed us in the Night for the next Morning we saw the Riff about half a Mile to the North of us and right against us was a small Gap by which we came in hither but coming to view it more nearly with our Boat we did not dare to venture out that way again One Reason why we would have gone out to the Northward was because from our Main-top we saw the Islands to the Southward of us and being unacquainted knew not whether we might find among them a Channel to pass through our second reason was the hopes of making a better slant in for the shore if we could weather the East end of the Riff In order to this we weighed Anchor keeping down by the side of the Riff till we were at the West end of it which was about a League from where we Anchored then we stood off to the North and there kept plying off and on to Weather the East end of the Riff three Days but not being able to effect it by reason of a strong Current setting to the N. W. we ran back again to the West end of the Riff and steered away for the Islands There we Anchored and lay three or four days and visited most of them and found plenty of such Creatures as I have already described Though here was great store of such good Food and we like to want yet we did neither salt any nor spend of it fresh to save our Stock I found them all but one Man averse to it but I did heartily wish them of another mind because I dreaded wanting before the end of the Voyage a hazard which we needed not to run there being here such plenty of Fowls and Seals especially of the latter that the Spaniards do often come hither to make Oyl of their Fat upon which account it has been visited by English men from Jamaica particularly by Capt. Long who having the command of a small Bark came hither purposely to make Seal-Oyl and
anchored on the North side of one of the sandy Islands the most convenient Place for his design Having got ashore his Cask to put his Oyl in and set up a Tent for lodging himself and his Goods he began to kill the Seal and had not wrought above three or four Days before a fierce North-wind blew his Bark ashore By good fortune she was not damnified but his company being but small and so despairing of setting her afloat again they fell to contriving how to get away a very difficult Task to accomplish for it was 24 or 25 Leagues to the nearest Place of the Main and above 100 Leagues to Trist which was the next English settlement But contrary to their expectation instead of that Captain Long bid them follow their Work of Seal-killing and making Oyl assuring them that he would undertake at his own peril to carry them safe to Trist. This though it went much against the grain yet at last he so far prevailed by fair Words that they were contented to go on with their Seal-killing till they had filled all their Cask But their greatest work was yet to do viz. how they should get over to the Main and then Coast down before the Wind to Trist. Their Boat was not big enough to transport them so they concluded to cut down the Barks Masts and rip up her Deck to make a float for that purpose This being agreed on the next Morning betimes pursuant to their Resolution they were going to break up their Vessel but it happened that very Night that two New-England Ketches going down to Trist ran on the backside of the Riff where they struck on the Rocks and were bulged And Captain Long and his Crew seeing them in Distress presently took their Boat and went off to help them unlade their Goods and bring them ashore and in requital they furnished the Captain with such tackle and other Necessaries as he wanted and assisted him in the launching his Vessel and lading his Oyl and so they went merrily away for Trist This lucky accident was much talk'd of amongst the C's Crew and so exasperated the New-England Men when they heard the whole story that they were thinking if their Commanders would have suffered them to have thrown him into the Sea to prevent his doing more mischief For they were sure that he by his Art had caused them to run aground The whole of this Relation I had from Captain Long himself From the main to these Islands the Sea deepens gradually till you come to about 30 Fathom Water and when you are 25 or 26 Leagues off shore to the Eastward of them if you steer away West keeping in that depth you cannot miss them The same Rule is to be observed to find any other Island as the Triangles the Isles Des Arenas c. for the Bank runs all along the shore on which are Soundings of equal depth and the Sea appears of a muddy palish Colour but when past the Bank on the North side of it it resumes its natural greeness and is too deep for any Sounding till you are within 30 Leagues of the North side of the Bay of Mexico where by relation there is such another Bank abounding with Oysters running all along the shore But to return to our Voyage Having spent 2 or 3 days among the Alcranes Islands we set sail again and steering in Southerly for the Main having the Wind at E. N. E. we fell in with it a little to Leeward of Cape Catoch plying under the shore till we reach'd the Cape from thence we continued our Course Northerly the Wind at E. by S. The next Land we designed for was Cape Antonio which is the Westermost Point of the Island Cuba and distant from Cape Catoch about 40 Leagues Some when they sail out of the Bay keep along by the Land of Jucatan till they come as far as the Island Cozumel and from thence stretch over towards Cuba and if the Wind favours them any thing they will get as high as Cape Corientes before they fall in with Cuba for in their Passage from thence they are not in so much danger of being hurried away to the North by the Current between the two Capes or to the North of them as we were For taking our Course Northward till the Lat. of 22 d. 30 m. we tack'd again and the Wind at E. steered away S. S. E. 24 hours and having taken an Observation of the Sun as we did the day before found our selves in 23 d. being driven backwards in 24 hours 30 Miles We had then the Channel open between the two Capes but to the North of either Yet at last we got over to the Cuba shore and fell in with the North of the Island about 7 or 8 Leagues from Cape Antonio Now we both saw and ran thro' some of the Colorado Sholes but found a very good Channel among a great many Rocks that appeared above Water Being thus got within the Sholes between them and Cuba we found a pretty wide clear Channel and good Anchoring and advancing further within a League of the Cape we Anchored and went ashore to get Water but found none In the Evening when the Land-wind sprung up we weighed again and doubling the Cape coasted along on the South side of the Island taking the Advantages both of Sea and Land-winds For though we had now been about two Months from Trist and this the time of the Year for Norths yet to our great trouble they had hitherto failed us and besides as I said before our Ketch was such a Leewardly Vessel that we did not yet expect we could possibly reach Jamaica meerly by turning though sometimes assisted by Sea and Land-Winds In about a Week after this we got up with and coasted along the Isle of Pines for 7 or 8 Leagues and then stood off to Sea and the third Morning fell in with the West end of grand Caymanes This Island is about 40 Leagues South from Pines and about 15 to the West of little Caymanes we anchored at the West end about half a Mile from the shore We found no Water nor any Provision but saw many Crocodiles on the Bay some of which would scarce stir out of the way for us We kill'd none of them which we might easily have done though Food began to be short withus indeed had it been in the Months of June or July we might probably have gotten Turtle for they frequent this Island some Years as much as they do little Caymanes We stayed here but 3 or 4 hours and steered back for Pines intending there to hunt for Beef or Hog of both which there is in great plenty The second day in the Morning we fell in with the West end of Pines and running about 4 or 5 Miles Northward we anchored in 4 Fathom Water clean Sand about two Mile from the shore and right-against a small Creek through the Mangroves into a wide Lagune The Isle of
Pines lyes on the South side towards the West end of Cuba and is distant from it 3 or 4 Leagues Cape Corientes on Cuba is five or six Leagues to the Westward of the Isle of Pines Between Pines and Cuba are many small woody Islands scattered here and there with Channels for Ships to pass between and by report there is good anchoring near any of them Jamaica Sloops do sometimes pass through between Cuba and Pines when they are bound to Wind-ward because there the Sea is always smooth They are also certain to meet good Land-winds besides they can Anchor when they please and thereby take the benefit of the Tides and when they are got past the East end of Pines they may either stand out to Sea again or if they are acquainted among the small Islands to the East of it which are called the South Keys of Cuba they may range amongst them to the Eastward still taking the greater benefit of Land-winds and Anchoring Besides if Provision is scarce they will meet Jamaica Turtlers or else may get Turtle themselves at which many of them are expert There is also plenty of Fish of many sorts but if they are not provided with Hooks Lines or Harpoons or any other Fishing-Craft nor meet with any Turtlers Cuba will afford them Sustenance of Hog or Beef The great Inconvenience of going in the inside of Pines between it and Cuba proceeds from a Spanish Garrison of about 40 Soldiers at Cape Corientes who have a large Periago well fitted with Oars and Sails and are ready to launch out and seize any small Vessel and seldom spare the Lives as well as the Goods of those that fall into their Hands for fear of telling Tales Such Villanies are frequently practised not only here but also in several other Places of the West Indies and that too with such as came to Trade with their Country-men The Merchants and Gentry indeed are no way guilty of such Actions only the Soldiers and Rascality of the People and these do commonly consist of Mulatoes or some other sort of Copper Colour Indians who are accounted very Barbarous and Cruel The Isle of Pines is about 11 or 12 Leagues long and 3 or 4 broad The West end of it is low Mangrovy Land and within which is a Lagune of about 3 or 4 Miles wide running to the Eastward but how far I know not with a small Creek of 2 or 3 Foot Water reaching to the Sea The Lagune it self is so shallow especially near the Island that you cannot bring a Canoa within 20 or 30 Paces of the shore The South side of the Island is low flat and rocky the Rocks are perpendicularly steep towards the Sea so that there is no Anchoring on that side but at the West end very good in sandy Ground The body of the Island is high Land with many little Hills incompassing a high Pike or Mountain standing in the middle The Trees that grow here are of divers sorts most of them unknown to me Red Mangroves grow in the low swampy Land against the Sea but on the firm hilly part Pine-Trees are most plentiful of these here are great Groves of a good height and bigness streight and large enough to make Topmasts or standing Masts for small Vessels at the West end there is a pretty big River of fresh Water but no coming at it near the Sea for red Mangroves which grow so thick on both sides of it that there is no getting in among them The Land-Animals are Bullocks Hogs Dear c. here are small Savannahs for the Bullocks and Deer to feed in as well as Fruit in the Woods for the Hogs Here are also a sort of Racoons or Indian Conies and in some Places plenty of Land-Turtle and Land-Crabs of two sorts white and black Both of them make holes in the Ground like Conies where they shelter themselves all day and in the Night come out to feed they will eat Grass Herbs or such Fruit as they find under the Trees The Manchaniel Fruit which neither Bird nor Beast will taste is greedily devoured by them without doing them any harm Yet these very Crabs that feed on Manchaneel are venomous both to Man and Beast that feeds on them though the others are very good Meat The white Crabs are the largest sort some of them are as big as a Mans two Fists joyned together they are shaped like Sea-Crabs having one large Claw wherewith they will pinch very hard neither will they let go their hold though you bruise them in pieces unless you break the Claw too but if they chance to catch your Fingers the way is to lay your Hand Crab and all flat on the Ground and he will immediately loose his hold and scamper away These white ones build in wet swampy dirty Ground near the Sea so that the Tide washes into their Holes but the black Crab is more cleanly delighting to live in dry Places and makes its House in sandy Earth Black Crabs are commonly fat and full of Eggs they are also accounted the better Meat tho' both sorts are very good Here are also a great many Alligators and Crocodiles that haunt about this Island and are said to be the most daring in all the West Indies I have heard of many of their Tricks as that they have followed a Canoa and put their Noses in over the Gunnal with their Jaws wide open as if ready to devour the Men in it And that when they have been ashore in the Night near the Sea the Crocodiles have boldly come in among them and made them run from their Fire and taken away their Meat from them Therefore when Privateers are hunting on this Island they always keep Sentinels out to watch for these ravenous Creatures as duly as they do in other Places for fear of Enemies especially in the Night for fear of being devoured in their sleep The Spaniards of Cuba have here some Craules i. e. Herds of Hogs with a few Indians or Mulatoes to look after them Here are also Hunters that gain a livelihood by killing wild Hog and Beef This Island is reported to be very wet I have heard many say that it rains here more or less every day in the Year but this I suppose is a mistake for there fell no Rain about us so long as we stayed here neither did I see any appearance of it in other Places of the Island We were no sooner at an Anchor but five of us went ashore leaving only the Cook and Cabbin-Boy aboard We had but two bad fowling Pieces in the Ship those we took with us with a design to Kill Beef and Hog We went into the Lagune where we found Water enough for our Canoa and in some Places not much to spare when we were got almost over it we saw 8 or 10 Bulls and Cows feeding on the shore close by the Sea This gave us great hopes of good success We therefore rowed away aside off the
covered with Pantile There is a strong Citadel or Fort at one end planted with many Guns where the Governour resides with a small Garrison to defend it Though this Port Commands the Town and Harbour yet it hath been twice taken First by Sir Christopher Mims who about the Year 1659. having summoned the Governour and afterwards stayed 3 days for an Answer before he Landed his Men yet then took it by Storm and that only with small Arms. I have been told that when he was advised by the Jamaica Privateers to take it by Stratagem in the Night he replied that he scorned to steal a Victory therefore when he went against it he gave them warning of his Approach by his Drums and Trumpets yet he took the Fort at the first onset and immediately became Master of the Place It was taken a second time by English and French Privateers about the Year 1678. by surprize They Landed in the Night about 2 Leagues from the Town and marching into the Country lighted on a Path that brought them thither The next Morning near Sun-rising they entred the Town when many of the Inhabitants were now stirring in their Houses who hearing a noise in the Street look'd out to know the occasion and seeing Armed Men marching towards the Fort supposed them to be some Soldiers of their own Garrison that were returned out of the Country for about a Fortnight or 3 VVeeks before they had sent out a Party to suppress some Indians then in Rebellion a thing very Common in this Country Under favour of this Supposition the Privateers marched through the Streets even to the Fort without the least Opposition Nay the Towns-People bad them Good Morrow and Congratulated their safe return not discovering them to be Enemies till they fired at the Sentinels on the Fort-wall and presently after began a furious Attack and turning two small Guns which they found in the Parade against the Gates of the Fort they soon made themselves Masters of it The Town is not very rich though as I said before the only Sea-Port on all this Coast. The chiefest Manufacture of the Country is Cotton-Cloath this serves for cloathing the Indians and even the poorer sort of Spaniards wear nothing else It is used also for making Sails for Ships and remitted to other parts for the same purpose Besides Cotton-Cloath and Salt fetch'd from the Salinas I know of no other vendible Commodity exported hence Indeed formerly this place was the Scale of the whole Logwood-Trade which is therefore still called Palo i. e. VVood de Campeachy tho' it did not grow nearer than at 12 or 14 Leagues distance from the Town The place where the Spaniards did then cut it was at a River called Champeton about 10 or 12 Leagues to Leeward of Campeachy Town the Coast from thence South the Land pretty high and rocky The Native Indians that lived hereabouts were hired to cut it for a Ryal a Day it then being worth 90 100 01 110 l. per Tun. After the English had taken Jamaica and began to cruise in this Bay they found many Barks laden with it but not knowing its value then they either set them adrift or burned them saving only the Nails and Iron work a thing now usual among the Privateers taking no notice at all of the Cargo till Cap. James having taken a great Ship laden with it and brought her home to England to fit her for a Privateer beyond his Expectation sold his VVood at a great rate tho' before he valued it so little that he burned of it all his Passage home After his return to Jamaica the English visiting this Bay found out the Place where it grew and if they 〈◊〉 Prize at Sea they would go to Champeton 〈◊〉 where they were certain to find large Piles cut to their Hand and brought to the Sea-side ready to be ship'd off This was their Common Practice till at last the Spaniards sent Soldiers thither to prevent their Depredations But by this time the English knew the Trees as growing and understanding their value began to rummage other Coasts of the Main in search of it till according to their desire they found large Groves of it first at Cape Catoch which as I have said before was the first Place where they setled to Logwood-Cutting and loaded many Vessels from thence to Jamaica and other Places But it growing scarce there they found out the Lagune of Trist in the Bay of Campeachy where they followed the same Trade and have ever since continued it even to the time of my being here But to proceed From the River Champeton to Port-Royal is about 18 Leagues the Coast S. S. VV. or S. VV. by S. Low-land with a sandy Bay against the Sea and some Trees by the shore with small Savanahs mixt with small shrubby VVoods within Land all the way There is only one River between Champeton and Port-Royal called Port Escondedo Port-Royal is a broad Entrance into a Salt Lagune of 9 or 10 Leagues long and 3 or 4 wide with 2 Mouths one at each end This Mouth of Port-Royal hath a Barr whereon there is 9 or 10 Foot VVater VVithin the Bar it is deep enough and there is good Anchoring on either side The entrance is about a Mile over and two Miles in length it hath fair sandy Bays on each side with smooth Landing Ships commonly Anchor on the VVeather or East side next Champeton both for the convenience of some VVells there dug on the Bays by the Privateers and Logwood-Cutters as also to ride more out of the Tide which here runs very strong This Place is remarkable enough because from hence the Land trends away VVest and runs so for about 65 or 70 Leagues farther On the VVest side of this Harbour is a low Island called by Us Port-Royal-Island which makes one side of the Mouth as the Main does the other It is about 2 Miles wide and 3 Leagues long running East and VVest The East end of this Island is sandy and pretty clear of VVoods with some Grass bearing a small prickly Bur no bigger than a Grey Pea which renders it very troublesom to those that walk bare-foot as the Bay-Men often do There are some Bushes of Burton-wood And a little further to the VVest grow large Sapadillo-Trees whose Fruit is long and very pleasant The rest of the Island is more woody especially the North side which is full of white Mangrove close to the shore On the VVest side of this Island is another small low Island called Trist separated from the former by a small Salt Creek scarce broad enough for a Canoa to padle through The Island Trist is in some Places three Mile wide and about 4 Leagues in Length running E. and W. The East end is swampy and full of white Mangroves and the South side much the same The VVest part is dry and sandy bearing a sort of long Grass growing in Tufts very thin This is a sort of
observed his Method in curing the Horse which was this First he strok'd the sore Place then applying to it a little rough Powder which looked like Tobacco Leaves dryed and crumbled small mumbling some Words to himself he blew upon the part three times and waving his Hands as often over it said it would be well speedily His Fee for the Cure was a White Cock Then coming to me and looking on the Worm in my Ancle he promised to cure it in three Days demanding also a White Cock for his pains and using exactly the same Method with me as he did with the Horse He bad me not open it in three Days but I did not stay so long for the next Morning the Cloath being rubb'd off I unbound it and found the Worm broken off and the Hole quite healed up I was afraid the remaining part would have given some trouble but have not felt any pain there from that day to this To return I told you how I was interrupted in following my Work by the Worms breeding in my Leg. And to compleat my misfortune presently after we had the most violent Storm for above 24 Hours that ever was known in these Parts An Account of which I shall give more particularly in my Discourse of Winds and shall now only mention some Passages I have already said we were four of us in Company at this Place cutting Logwood and by this Storm were reduced to great Inconveniencies for while that lasted we could dress no Victuals nor even now it was over unless we had done it in the Canoa for the highest Land near us was almost 3 Foot under Water besides our Provision too was most of it spoiled except the Beef and Pork which was but little the worse We had a good Canoa large enough to carry us all and seeing it in vain to stay here any longer we all embarked and rowed away to One-Bush-Key about 4 Leagues from our Huts There were 4 Ships riding here when the Storm began but at our arrival we found only one and hoped to have got some Refreshment from it but found very cold entertainment For we could neither get Bread nor Punch nor so much as a Dram of Rum though we offered them Money for it The Reason was they were already over-charged with such as being distressed by the Storm had been forced to take Sanctuary with them seeing we could not be supplied here we asked which way the other three Ships were driven they told us that Capt. Prout of New-England was driven towards Trist and 't was probable he was carried out to Sea unless he stuck on a Sand called the Middle Ground that Capt. Skinner of New-England was driven towards Beef-Island and Captain Chandler of London drove away towards Man-of-War Lagune Beef-Island lies North from One-Bush-Key but the other two Places lie a little on each side One to the East the other to the West So away we went for Beef-Island and coming within a League of it we saw a Flag in the Woods made fast to a Pole and placed on the Top of a high Tree And coming still nearer we at last saw a Ship in the Woods about 200 Yards from the Sea We rowed directly towards her and when we came to the Woods side found a pretty clear Passage made by the Ship through the Woods the Trees being all broke down And about three Foot Water Home to the Ship We rowed in with our Canoa and went Aboard and were kindly Entertained by the Seamen but the Captain was gone Aboard Captain Prout who stuck fast on the middle Ground before-mentioned Captain Prout's Ship was afterwards got off again but the Stumps of the Trees ran clear through the bottom of Captain Skinner's therefore there was no hope of saving her Here we got Victuals and Punch and stayed about two Hours in which time the Captain came Aboard and invited us to stay all Night But hearing some Guns fired in Man-of-War Lagune we concluded that Captain Chandler was there and wanted assistance Therefore we presently rowed away thither for we could do no Service here and before Night found him also stuck fast on a Point of Sand. The Head of his Ketch was dry and at the Stern there was above 4 Foot Water Our coming was very seasonable to Captain Chandler with whom we stayed two Days in which time we got out all his Goods carried off his Anchor c. and so not being able as yet to do him more Service we left him for the present and went away to hunt at Beef-Island At Trist were four Vessels riding before this Storm one of them was driven off to Sea and never heard of afterwards Another was cast dry upon the shore where she lay and was never got off again But the third rode it out Another was riding without the Bar of Trist and she put to Sea and got to New-England but much shattered About three days before this Storm began a small Vessel Commanded by Captain Vally went hence bound to Jamaica This Vessel was given for lost by all the Logwood-Cutters but about 4 Months after she returned thither again and the Captain said he felt nothing of the Storm but when he was about 30 Leagues to Wind-ward of Trist he had a fresh Summasenta-Wind that carried him as high as Cape Condecedo but all the time he saw very black Clouds to the Westward Beef-Island is about 7 Leagues long and 3 or 4 broad It lies in length East and West The East end looks toward the Island Trist and is low drowned Land and near the Sea produceth nothing but white and black Mangrove-Trees The North side lies open to the Main Sea running straight from East to West The Eastermost part for about three Leagues from Trist is Low and Mangrovy at the end of which there is a small salt Creek deep enough at high Water for Boats to pass From this Creek to the West end is 4 Leagues all sandy Bay closed on the backside with a low Sand-bank abounding with thick prickly Bushes like a White-thorn bearing a whitish hard Shell-Fruit as big as a Sloe much like a Calla-bash The West end is washed with the River St. Peter St. Paul This end is over-grown with red Mangroves About 3 Leagues up from the Mouth of this River shoots forth a small Branch running to the Eastward and dividing Beef-Island form the Main on the South and afterwards makes a great Lake of fresh Water called Fresh Water Lagune This afterward falls into a Salt Lake called Man-of-War Lagune which emptys it self into Laguna Termina about 2 Leagues from the S. E. Point of the Island The inside or middle of this Island is a Savannah bordered all round with Trees most Mangrovy either black white or red with some Logwood The South side between the Savannahs and the Mangroves is very rich Sometimes this Land lyes in Ridges higher than the Savannahs The Savannahs produce plenty of long Grass and the Ridges
great goggle Eyes and is very quick sighted It has a thick Neck and strong Legs but weak Footlocks The Hoofs of his Feet are Cloven in the middle And it has two small Hoofs above the Footlock which bending to the Ground when it goes make an Impression on the Sand like four Claws His Tail is short and tapering like a Swines without any Bob at the end This Beast is commonly fat and very good Meat It graseth ashore in wet swampy Ground near Rivers or Ponds but retires to the Water if pursued When they are in the Water they will sink down to the bottom and there walk as on dry Ground They will run almost as fast as a Man but if chased hard they will turn about and look very fierce like a Boar and fight if put to it The Natives of the Country have no Wars with these Creatures but we had many Conflicts with them both on Shore and in the Rivers and though we commonly got the better by killing some and routing the rest yet in the Water we durst not molest them after one Bout which had like to have proved fatal to 3 Men that went in a small Canoa to kill a single Sea-Horse in a River where was 8 or 10 Foot Water The Horse according to his Custom was marching in the bottom of the River and being espied by these Men they wounded him with a long Lance which so enraged the Beast that he rose up immediately and giving a fierce look he opened his Jaws and bit a great piece of the Gunnal or upper edge of the Canoa and was like to over-set it but presently sunk down again to the bottom and the Men made away as fast as they could for fear he should come again The West Branch of the River St. Peter St. Paul after it has run 8 or 9 Leagues N. W loseth it self in Tobasco River about 4 Leagues from the Sea and so makes the Island Tobasco which is 12 Leagues long and 4 broad at the North end for from the River St. Peter St. Paul to the mouth of Tobasco River is accounted 4 Leagues and the Shore lies East and West The first League on the East is Mangrove-Land with some Sandy Bay where Turtle come ashore to lay their Eggs. The West part of it is Sandy Bay quite to the River Tobasco But because here is constantly a great Sea you have no good Landing till within the River The N. W. part of it is full of Guaver Trees of the greatest variety and their fruit the largest and best tasted I have met with and 't is really a very delicious place There are also some Coco-Plums and Grapes but not many The Savannahs here are naturally fenced with Groves of Guavers and produce good Grass for Pasture and are pretty well stock'd with fat Bullocks and I do believe it is from their eating the Guaver Fruit that these Trees are so thick For this fruit is full of small seeds which being swallowed whole by the Cattle are voided whole by them again and then taking root in their Dung spring up abundantly Here are also Deer in great numbers these we constantly find feeding in the Savannahs Mornings and Evenings And I remember an unlucky Accident whilst I was there Two or three Men went out one Evening purposely to hunt when they were in the spots of Savannahs they separated to find their Game and at last it so happened that one of them fired at a Deer and killed it and while he was skinning it he was shot stark dead by one of his Consorts who fired at him mistaking him for a Deer The poor Man was very sorry for so sad a mischance and for fear of the dead Man's Friends durst never go back again to Jamaica The River of Tobasco is the most noted in all the Bay of Campeachy and springs also from the high Mountains of Chiapo but much more to the Westward than that of St. Peter St. Paul From thence it runs N. E. till within 4 Leagues of the Sea where it receives the fore-mentioned Branch of St. Peter St. Paul and then runs North till it falls into the Sea Its Mouth is about two Miles wide and there is a Bar of Sand lying off it with not above 11 or 12 foot Water but a Mile or two within the Mouth at a nook or bending of the River on the East-side there is three Fathom and good Riding without any danger from the strength of the Current The Tide flows up about four Leagues in the dry Season but in the Rains not so far for then the Freshes make the Ebb run very strong During the Norths it over-flows all the low Land for 14 or 15 Leagues up the River and you may then take up fresh Water without the Bar. This River near its Mouth abounds with Cat-fish with some Snooks and Manatee in great plenty there being good feeding for them in many of its Creeks especially in one place on the Starbord side about 2 Leagues from the Sea which runs into the Land 2 or 300 paces and then opens very wide and is so shoal that you may see their backs above Water as they feed a thing so rare that I have heard our Musketo-men say they never saw it any where else On the least noise they will all scamper out into the River yet the Musketo-men seldom miss of striking them These are a sort of Fresh-water Manatee not altogether so big as the Sea kind but otherwise exactly alike in shape and tast and I think rather fatter The Land by the Rivers especially on tne Starbord side is swampy and over-grown with Trees Here are also abundance of Land-Turtle the largest that I ever saw till I came to the Gallapagos Islands in the S. Seas viz. Mangroves Macaws and other sorts that I know not In some places near the River side further up the Country are Ridges of dry Land full of lofty Cabbage and Cotton Trees which make a very pleasant Landskip There is no Settlement within 8 Leagues of the River's Mouth and then you come to a small Breast-work where there is commonly a Spaniard with 8 or 9 Indians posted on each side the River to watch for Boats coming that way And because there are divers Greeks running in from the Savannahs some of these Sentinels are so placed in the Woods that they may look into the Savannahs for fear of being surprized on the back side Yet for all their caution these Sentinels were snap'd by Captain Nevil Commander of a small Brigantine in a second Expedition that he made to take the Town called Villa de Mose His first Attempt miscarried by his being discovered But the second time he got into a Creek a League below these Sentinels and there dragging his Canoas over some Trees that were laid cross it purposely to hinder his passage he came in the night upon their backs in their several Posts so that the Town having no notice of his coming
himself very well for here lay driven on the Island Masts Yards Timbers and many things that he wanted therefore he hal'd into the Harbour close to the Island and unrigg'd his Ship Before he had done a Dutch Ship of 20 Guns was sent from Querisao to take up the Guns that were lost on the Riff But seeing a Ship in the Harbour and knowing her to be a French Privateer they thought to take her first and came within a mile of her and began to fire at her intending to warp in the next day for it is very narrow going in Captain Pain got ashore some of his Guns and did what he could to resist them tho he did in a manner conclude he must be taken But while his men were thus busied he spy'd a Dutch Sloop turning to get into the Road and saw her in the evening anchor at the West end of the Island This gave him some hope of making his escape which he did by sending two Canoas in the night aboard the Sloop who took her and got considerable purchase in her and he went away in her making a good Reprizal and leaving his own empty Ship to the Dutch Man of War There is another Island to the Eastward of the Isle of Aves about 4 leagues called by Privateers the littleIsle of Aves which is overgrown with Mangrove-trees I have seen it but was never on it There are no Inhabitants that I could learn on either of these Islands but Boobies and a few other Birds While we were at the Isle of Aves we careen'd Captain Wright s Bark and scrubb'd the Sugar-prize and got 2 Guns out of the Wrecks continuing here till the beginning of Feb. 1681 2. We went from hence to the Isles Roca's to careen the Sugar-prize which the Isle of Aves was not a place so convenient for Accordingly we haled close to one of the small Islands and got our Guns ashore the first thing we did and built a Breastwork on the point and planted all our Guns there to hinder an Enemy from coming to us while we lay on the Careen Then we made a House and cover d it with our Sails to put our goods and provisions in While we lay here a French Man of War of 36 Guns came thro the Keys or Little Islands to whom we sold about 10 Tun of Sugar I was aboard twice or thrice and very kindly welcomed both by the Captain and his Lieutenant who was a Cavalier of Malta and they both offer d me great encouragement in France if I would go with them but I ever design'd to continue with those of my own Nation The Islands Roca s are a parcel of small uninhabited Islands lying about the Lat. of 11 d. 40 〈◊〉 about 15 or 16 leagues from the Main and about 20 leagues N. W. b. W. from Tortuga and 6 or 7 leagues to the Westward of Orchilla another Island lying about the same distance from the Main which Island I have seen but was never at it Roca's stretch themselves East and West about 5 leagues and their breadth is about 3 leagues The northernmost of these Islands is the most remarkable by reason of a high white rocky Hill at the West end of it which may be seen a great way and on it there are abundance of Tropick Birds Men of War Booby and Noddys which breed there The Booby and Man of War I have described already The Noddy is a small Black Bird much about the bigness of the English Black-bird and indifferent good meat They build in Rocks We never find them far off from Shore I have seen of them in other places but never saw any of their Nests but in this Island where there is great plenty of them The Tropick Bird is as big as a Pigeon but round and plump like a Partridge They are all white except two or three Feathers in each Wing of a light grey Their Bills are of a yellowish colour thick and short They have one long Feather or rather a Quill about 7 inches long grows out at the Rump which is all the Tail they have They are never seen far without either Tropick for which reason they are called Tropick-birds They are very good food and we meet with them a great way at Sea and I never saw of them any where but at Sea and in this Island where they build and are found in great plenty By the Sea on the South side of that high Hill there is fresh Water comes out of the Rocks but so slowly that it yields not above 40 gallons in 24 hours and it tastes so copperish or aluminous rather and rough in the mouth that it seems very unpleasant at first drinking but after 2 or 3 days any other Water will seem to have no taste The middle of this Island is low plain Land overgrown with long Grass where there are multitudes of small grey Fowls no bigger than a Black-bird yet lay Eggs bigger than a Magpy's and they are therefore by Privateers called Egg-birds The East end of the Island is overgrown with black Mangrove Trees There are three sorts of Mangrove-Trees black red and white The black Mangrove is the largest Tree the body about as big as an Oak and about 20 feet high It is very hard and serviceable Timber but extraordinary heavy therefore not much made use of for building The red Mangrove groweth commonly by the Sea side or by Rivers or Creeks The body is not so big as that of the black Mangrove but always grows out of many roots about the bigness of a Mans Leg some bigger some less which at about 6 8 or 10 foot above the ground joyn into one trunk or body that seems to be supported by so many artificial Stakes Where this sort of Tree grows it is impossible to march by reason of these Stakes which grow so mixt one among another that I have when forced to go through them gone half a mile and never set my foot on the ground stepping from root to root The Timber is hard and good for many uses The inside of the Bark is red and it is used for tanning of Leather very much all over the West Indies The white Mangrove never groweth so big as the other two sorts neither is it of any great use Of the young Trees Privateers use to make Looms or Handles for their Oars for it is commonly strait but not very strong which is the fault of them Neither the black nor white Mangrove grow towering up from stilts or rising roots as the red doth but the body immediately out of the ground like other Trees The Land of this East end is light Sand which is sometimes overflown with the Sea at Spring-tides The Road for Ships is on the South side against the middle of the Island The rest of the Islands of Roca's are low The next to this on the South side is but small flat and even without Trees bearing only Grass On the South side of it
times sought after by the Spaniards who knew he was left on the Island yet they could never find him He was in the Woods hunting for Goats when Captain Watlin drew off his men and the Ship was under sail before he came back to shore He had with him his Gun and a Knife with a small Horn of Powder and a few Shot which being spent he contrived a way by notching his Knife to saw the barrel of his Gun into small pieces wherewith he made Harpoons Lances Hooks and a long Knife heating the pieces first in the fire which he struck with his Gunflint and a piece of the barrel of his Gun which he hardened having learnt to do that among the English The hot pieces of Iron he would hammer out and bend as he pleased with Stones and saw them with his jagged Knife or grind them to an edge by long labour and harden them to a good temper as there was occasion All this may seem strange to those that are not acquainted with the sagacity of the Indians but it is no more than these Moskito men are accustomed to in their own Country where they make their own Fishing and Striking Instruments without either Forge or Anvil tho they spend a great deal of time about them Other Wild Indians who have not the use of Iron which the Moskito men have from the English make Hatchets of a very hard stone with which they will cut down Trees the Cotton Tree especially which is a soft tender Wood to build their Houses or make Canoas and though in working their Canoas hollow they cannot dig them so neat and thin yet they will make them fit for their service This their digging or hatchet-work they help out by fire whether for the felling of the Trees or for the making the inside of their Canoa hollow These contrivances are used particularly by the Savage Indians of Blewfield s River described in the 3d Chapter whose Canoas and Stone-hatchets I have seen These Stone-hatchets are about 10 inches long 4 broad and 3 inches thick in the middle They are grownd away flat and sharp at both ends right in the midst and clear round it they make a notch so wide and deep that a man might place his Finger along it and taking a stick or withe about 4 foot long they bind it round the Hatchet-head in that notch and so twisting it hard use it as an handle or helve the head being held by it very fast Nor are other Wild Indians less ingenious Those of Patagonia particularly head their Arrows with Flint cut or grownd which I have seen and admired But to return to our Moskito man on the Isle of John Fernando With such Instruments as he made in that manner he got such Provision as the Island afforded either Goats or Fish He told us that at first he was forced to eat Seal which is very ordinary meat before he had made Hooks but afterwards he never kill'd any Seals but to make lines cutting their skins into thongs He had a little House or Hut half a mile from the Sea which was lined with Goats skin his Couch or Barbecu of sticks lying along about 2 foot distant from the ground was spread with the same and was all his Bedding He had no Cloaths left having worn out those he brought from Watlin's Ship but only a Skin about his Waste He saw our Ship the day before we came to an Anchor and did believe we were English and therefore kill'd 3 Goats in the morning before we came to an anchor and drest them with Cabbage to treat us when we came ashore He came then to the Sea side to congratulate our safe arrival And when we landed a Moskito Indian named Robin first leapt ashore and running to his brother Moskito man threw himself flat on his face at his feet who helping him up and embracing him fell flat with his face on the ground at Robins feet and was by him taken up also We stood with pleasure to behold the surprize and tenderness and solemnity of this interview which was exceedingly affectionate on both sides and when their ceremonies of civility were over we also that stood gazing at them drew near each of us embracing him we had found here who was overjoyed to see so many of his old friends come hither as he thought purposely to fetch him He was named Will as the other was Robin These were names given them by the English for they have no names among themselves and they take it as a great favour to be named by any of us and will complain for want of it if we do not appoint them some name when they are with us saying of themselves they are poor Men and have no name This Island is in lat 34 d. 15 m. and about 120 leagues from the Main It is about 12 leagues round full of high Hills and small pleasant Valleys which if manured would probably produce any thing proper for the Climate The sides of the Mountains are part Savanahs part Wood-land Savanahs are clear pieces of Land without Woods not because more barren than the Wood-land for they are frequently spots of as good Land as any and often are intermixt with Wood-land In the Bay of Campeachy are very large Savanahs which I have seen full of Cattle but about the River of Plate are the largest that ever I heard of 50 60 or 100 miles in length and Jamaica Cuba and Hispaniola have many Savanahs intermixt with Woods Places cleared of Wood by Art and Labour do not go by this name but those only which are found so in the uninhabited parts of America such as this Isle of John Fernandoes or which were originally clear in other parts The Grass in these Savanahs at John Fernando's is not a long flaggy Grass such as is usually in the Savanahs in the West-Indies but a sort of kindly Grass both thick and flourishing the biggest part of the year The Woods afford divers sorts of Trees some large and good Timber for Building but none fit for Masts The Cabbage Trees of this Isle are but small and low yet afford a good head and the Cabbage very sweet This Tree I shall describe in the Appendix in the Bay of Campeachy The Savanahs are stocked with Goats in great Herds but those that live on the East end of the Island are not so fat as those on the West end for though there is much more Grass and plenty of Water in every Valley nevertheless they thrive not so well here as on the West end where there is less food and yet there are found greater Flocks and those too fatter and sweeter That West end of the Island is all high Champion ground without any Vally and but one place to land there is neither Wood nor any fresh Water and the Grass short and dry Goats were first put on the Island by John Fernando who first discovered it in his Voyage from Lima to Baldivia
and discovered also another Island about the same bigness 20 leagues to the Westward of this From those Goats these were propogated and the Island hath taken its name from this its first Discoverer who when he returned to Lima desired a Patent for it designing to settle here and it was in his second Voyage hither that he set ashore 3 or 4 Goats which have since by their increase so well stocked the whole Island But he could never get a Patent for it therefore it lies still destitute of Inhabitants though doubtless capable of maintaining 4 or 500 Families by what may be produced off the Land only I speak much within compass for the Savanahs would at present feed 1000 head of Cattle besides Goats and the Land being cultivated would probably bear Corn or Wheat and good Pease Yams or Patatoes for the Land in their Valleys and sides of the Mountains is of a good black fruitful mould The Sea about it is likewise very productive of its Inhabitants Seals swarm as thick about this Island as if they had no other place in the World to live in for there is not a Bay nor Rock that one can get ashore on but is full of them Sea Lyon's are here in great Companys and Fish particularly Snappers and Rock-fish are so plentiful that 2 men in an hours time will take with Hook and Line as many as will serve 100 men The Seals are a sort of Creatures pretty well known yet it may not be amiss to describe them They are as big as Calves the head of them like a Dog therefore call'd by the Dutch the Sea-hounds Under each Shoulder grows a long thick Fin These serve them to swim with when in the Sea and are instead of Legs to them when on the Land for raising their Bodies up on end by the help of these Fins or Stumps and so having their Tail-parts drawn close under them they rebound as it were and throw their bodies forward drawing their hinder-parts after them and then again rising up and springing forward with their fore-parts alternately they lie tumbling thus up and down all the while they are moving on Land From their Shoulders to their Tails they grow tapering like Fish and have two small Fins on each side the Rump which is commonly covered with their Fins These Fins serve instead of a Tail in the Sea and on Land they sit on them when they give suck to their young Their hair is of divers colours as black grey dun sported looking very sleek and pleasant when they come first out of the Sea For these at John Fernando s have fine thick short Furr the like I have not taken notice of any where but in these Seas Here are always thousands I might say possibly millions of them either sitting on the Bays or going and coming in the Sea round the Island which is covered with them as they lye at the top of the Water playing and sunning themselves for a mile or two from the Shore When they come out of the Sea they bleat like Sheep for their young and tho they pass through hundreds of others young ones before they come to their own yet they will not suffer any of them to suck The young ones are like Puppies and lie much ashore but when beaten by any of us they as well as the old ones will make toward the Sea and swim very swift and nimble tho on shore they lye very sluggishly and will not go out of our ways unless we beat them but snap at us A blow on the Nose soon kills them Large Ships might here load themselves with Seals skins and Trane-oyl for they are extraordinary fat Seals are found as well in cold as hot Climates and in the cold places they love to get on Lumps of Ice where they will lie and sun themselves as here on the Land They are frequent in the Northern parts of Europe and America and in the Southern parts of Africa as about the Cape of Good Hope and at the Streights of Magellan and though I never saw any in the West Indies but in the Bay of Campeachy at certain Islands called the Alceranes and at others called the Desartes yet they are over all the American Coast of the South Seas from Terra del Fuego up to the Equinoctial Line but to the North of the Equinox again in these Seas I never saw any till as far as 21 North Lat. Nor did I ever see any in the East Indies In general they seem to resort where there is plenty of Fish for that is their food and Fish such as they feed on as Cods Groopers c. are most plentiful on rocky Coasts and such is mostly this Western Coast of the South America as I shall further relate The Sea Lion is a large creature about 12 or 14 foot long The biggest part of his body is as big as a Bull it is shaped like a Seal but 6 times as big The Head is like a Lion's Head it hath a broad Face with many long Hairs growing about its Lips like a Cat. It has a great goggle Eye the Teeth inches long about the bigness of a Mans Thumb In Capt. Sharp's time some of our Men made Dice with them They have no Hair on their Bodies like the Seal they are of a dun colour and are all extraordinary fat one of them being cut up and boil'd will yeild a Hogshed of Oil which is very sweet and wholesome to fry Meat withal The lean Flesh is black and of a course grain yet indifferent good food They will lye a week at a time ashore if not disturbed Where 3 or 4 or more of them come ashore together they huddle one on another like Swine and grunt like them making a hideous noise They eat Fish which I believe is their common food The Snapper is a Fish made much like a Roach but a great deal bigger It hath a large Head and Mouth and great Gills The Back is of a bright Red the Belly of a Silver-colour The Scales are as broad as a Shilling The Snapper is excellent meat They are in many places in the West-Indies and the South-Seas I have not seen them any where beside The Rock-fish is called by Sea-men a Grooper the Spaniards call it a Baccalao which is the name for Cod because it is much like it It is rounder than the Snapper of a dark brown colour and hath small Scales no bigger than a Silver-penny This Fish is good sweet meat and is found in great plenty on all the Coast of Peru and Chili There are only two Bays in the whole Island where Ships may Anchor these are both at the East end and in both of them is a Rivolet of good fresh Water Either of these Bays may be fortified with little charge to that degree that 50 men in each may be able to keep off 1000 and there is no coming into these Bays from the West end but with great
difficulty over the Mountains where if 3 men are placed they may keep down as many as come against them on any side This was partly experienced by 5 Englishmen that Captain Davis left here who defended themselves against a great body of Spaniards who landed in the Bays and came here to destroy them and though the second time one of their Consorts deserted and fled to the Spaniards yet the other 4 kept their ground and were afterward taken in from hence by Captain Strong of London We remained at John Fernando's 16 days our sick men were ashore all the time and one of Captain Eaton's Doctors for he had 4 in his Ship tending and feeding them with Goat and several Herbs whereof here is plenty growing in the Brooks and their Diseases were chiefly Scorbutick CHAP. V. The Author departs from John Fernando's Of the Pacifick Sea Of the Andes or high Mountains in Peru and Chili A Prize taken Isle of Lobos Penguins and other Birds there Three Prizes more The Islands Gallapago's The Dildo tree Burton wood Mammet trees Guanoes Land Tortoise their several kind Green Snakes Turtle-Doves Tortoise or Turtle-grass Sea Turtle their several kinds The Air and Weather at the Gallapago's Some of the Islands describ'd their Soil c. The Island Cocos describ'd Cape Blanco and the Bay of Caldera the Sevanahs there Captain Cook dies Of Nicoya and a Red Wood for Dying and other Commodities A narrow Escape of 12 Men. Lance-wood Volean Vejo a burning Mountain on the Coast of Ria Lexa A Tornado The Island and Harbor of Ria Lexa The Gulph of Amapalla and Point Casivina Isles of Mangera and Amapalla The Indian Inhabitants Hog-plumb tree Other Islands in the Gulph of Amapalla Captain Eaton and Captain Davis careen their Ships here and afterwards part THE 8th of April 1684. we sailed from the Isle of John Fernando with the Wind at S. E. We were now 2 Ships in Company Captain Cook 's whose Ship I was in and who here took the Sickness of which he dy'd a while after and Captain Eaton's Our passage lay now along the Pacifick Sea properly so called For though it be usual with our Map-makers to give that Name to this whole Ocean calling it Mare Australe Mar del Zar or Mare Pacificum yet in my opinion the Name of the Pacifick Sea ought not to be extended from South to North farther than from 30 to about 4 degrees South Latitude and from the American Shore Westward indefinitely with respect to my Observation who have been in these parts 250 Leagues or more from Land and still had the Sea very quiet from Winds For in all this Tract of Water of which I have spoken there are no dark rainy Clouds though often a thick Horizon so as to hinder an Observation of the Sun with the Quadrant and in the morning hazy weather frequently and thick Mists but scarce able to wet one Nor are there in this Sea any Winds but the Trade-wind no Tempests no Tornado's or Hurricans though North of the Equator they are met with as well in this Ocean as in the Atlantick yet the Sea it self at the new and full of the Moon runs with high large long Surges but such as never break out at Sea and so are safe enough unless that where they fell in and break upon the shore they make it bad landing In this Sea we made the best of our way toward the Line till in the lat of 24. S. where we fell in with the main Land of the South America All this course of the Land both of Chili and Peru is vastly high therefore we kept 12 or 14 leagues off from shore being unwilling to be seen by the Spaniards dwelling there The Land especially beyond this from 24 deg S. Lat. to 17 and from 14 to 10 is of a most prodigious heighth It lies generally in ridges parallel to the Shore and 3 or 4 ridges one within another each surpassing other in heighth and those that are farthest within Land are much higher than the others They always appear blue when seen at Sea sometimes they are obscured with Clouds but not so often as the high Lands in other parts of the world for here are seldom or never any Rains on these Hills any more than in the Sea near it neither are they subject to Fogs These are the highest Mountains that ever I saw far surpassing the Pike of Tenariffe or Santa Martha and I believe any Mountains in the world I have seen very high Land in the Lat. of 30 South but not so high as in the Latitudes before described In Sir John Narborough's Voyage also to Baldivia a City on this Coast mention is made of very high Land seen near Baldivia and the Spaniard with whom I have discoursed have told me that there is very high Land all the way between Coquimbo which lies in about 30 deg S. Lat. and Baldivia which is in 40 South so that by all likelihood these ridges of Mountains do run in a continued Chain from one end of Peru and Chili to the other all along this South Sea Coast called usually the Andes or Sierra Nuevada des Andes The excessive heighth of these Mountains may possibly be the reason that there are no Rivers of note that fall into these Seas Some small Rivers indeed there are but very few of them for in some places there is not one that comes out into the Sea in 150 or 200 Leagues and where they are thickest they are 30 40 or 50 Leagues asunder and too little and shallow to be navigable Besides some of these do not constantly run but are dry at certain seasons of the year as the River of Ylo runs flush with a quick Current at the latter end of January and so continues till June and then it decreaseth by degrees growing less and running slow till the latter end of September when it fails wholly and runs no more till January again This I have seen at both seasons in two former Voyages I made hither and have been informed by the Spaniards that other Rivers on this Coast are of the like nature being rather Torrents or Land-floods caused by their Rains at certain seasons far within Land than Perennial Streams We kept still along in sight of this Coast but at a good distance from it encountring with nothing of Note till in the lat of 9 deg 40 min. South on the 3d of May we descried a Sail to the Northward of us She was plying to Windward we chaced her and Captain Eaton being a head soon took her she came from Guiaquil about a month before laden with Timber and was bound to Lima. Three days before we took her she came from Santa whither she had gone for Water and where they had news of our being in these Seas by an Express from Baldivia for as we afterwards heard Captain Swan had been at Baldivia to seek a Trade there and he having met Captain
never see one Pearl Oyster about them nor any Pearl Oyster Shells but on the other Oysters I have made many a Meal there The northermost Island of all this range is called Pacheca or Pacheque This is but a small Island distant from Panama 11 or 12 leagues The Southermost of them is called St. Pauls Besides these two I know no more that are called by any particular name though there are many that far exceed either of the two in bigness Some of these Islands are planted with Plantains and Bonanas and there are Fields of Rice on others of them The Gentlemen of Panama to whom they belong keep Negroes there to plant weed and husband the Plantations Many of them especially the largest are wholly untill'd yet very good fat Land full of large Trees These unplanted Islands shelter many Runaway Negroes who abscond in the Woods all day and in the night boldly pillage the Plantain Walks Betwixt these Islands and the Main is a Channel of 7 or 8 leagues wide there is good depth of Water and good anchoring all the way The Islands border thick on each other yet they make many small narrow deep Channels fit only for Boats to pass between most of them At the S. E. end about a league from St. Pauls Island there is a good place for Ships to careen or hale ashore It is surrounded with the Land and hath a good deep Channel on the North side to go in at The tide riseth here about 10 foot perpendicular We brought our Ships into this place the 25th day but were forced to tarry for a Spring Tide before we could have Water enough to clean them therefore we first cleaned our Barks that they might cruise before Panama while we lay here The 27th day our Barks being clean we sent them out with 20 Men in each The fourth day after they returned with a Prize laden with Maiz or Indian Corn Salt Beef and Fowls She came from Lavelia and was bound to Panama Lavelia is a Town we once designed to attempt It is pretty large and stands on the Banks of a River on the North side of the Bay of Panama 6 or 7 leagues from the Sea Nata is another such Town standing in a Plain near another branch of the same River In these Towns and some others on the same Coast they breed Hogs Fowls Bulls and Cows and plant Maize purposely for the support of Panama which is supplied with Provision mostly from other Towns and the neighbouring Islands The Beef and Fowl our Men took came to us in a good time for we had eaten but little Flesh since we left the Island Plata The Harbor where we careen'd was incompassed by three Islands and our Ships rode in the middle That on which we haled our Ships ashore was a little Island on the North side of the Harbor The was a fine small sandy Bay but all the rest of the Island was invironed with Rocks on which at low Water we did use to gather Oysters Clams Muscles and Limpits The Clam is a sort of Oyster which grows so fast to the Rock that there is no separating it from thence therefore we did open it where it grows and take out the Meat which is very large fat and sweet Here are a few common Oysters such as we have in England of which sort I have met with none in these Seas but here at Point Garachina at Puna and on the Mexican Coast in the lat of 23 d. North. I have a Manuscript of Mr. Teat Captain Swan's chief Mate which gives an account of Oysters plentifully found in Port St. Julian on the East side and somewhat to the North of the Streights of Magellan but there is no mention made of what Oysters they are Here are some Guanoes but we found no other sort of Land Animal Here are also some Pigeons and Turtle-Doves The rest of the Islands that incompass this Harbor had of all these sorts of Creatures Our Men therefore did every day go over in Canoas to them to fish fowl or hunt for Guanoes but having one Man surprized once by some Spaniards lying there in Ambush and carried off by them to Panama we were after that more cautious of straggling The 14th day of February 1685. we made an end of cleaning our Ship fill'd all our Water and stock'd our selves with Fire-wood The 15th day we went out from among the Islands and anchored in the Channel between them and the Main in 25 fathom Water fast oazy ground The Plate Fleet was not yet arrived therefore we intended to cruise before the City of Panama which is from this place about 25 leagues The next day we sailed towards Panama passing in the Channel between the Kings Islands and the Main It is very pleasant sailing here having the Main on one side which appears in divers forms It is beautified with many small Hills cloathed with Woods of divers sorts of Trees which are always green and flourishing There are some few small high Islands within a league of the Main scattering here and there one These are partly woody partly bare and they as well as the Main appear very pleasant The Kings Islands are on the other side of this Channel and make also a very lovely prospect as you sail by them These as I have already noted are low and flat appearing in several shapes according as they are naturally formed by many small Creeks and Branches of the Sea The 16th day we anchored at Pacheque in 17 fathom Water about a league from the Island and sailed from thence the next day with the Wind at N. N. E. directing our course towards Panama When we came abrest of Old Panama we anchored and sent our Canoa ashore with our Prisoner Don Diego de Pinas with a Letter to the Governor to treat about an Exchange for our Man they had spirited away as I said and another Captain Harris left in the River of St. Maria the year before coming over Land Don Diego was desirous to go on this Errand in the name and with the consent of the rest of our Spanish Prisoners but by some accident he was killed before he got ashore as we heard afterwards Old Panama was formerly a famous place but it was taken by Sir Henry Morgan about the year 1673. and at that time great part of it was burned to ashes and it was never re-edified since New Panama is a very fair City standing close by the Sea about 4 mile from the Ruines of the Old Town It gives name to a large Bay which is famous for a great many navigable Rivers some whereof are very rich in Gold it is also very pleasantly sprinkled with Islands that are not only profitable to their Owners but very delightful to the Passengers and Seamen that sail by them some of which I have already described It is incompassed on the backside with a pleasant Country which is full of small Hills and Valleys beautified with
aboard Captain Davis his Ship Captain Swan also sprung his Maintop Mast and got up another but while he was doing it and we were making the best of our way we lost sight of him and were now on the North side of the Bay for this way all Ships must pass from Panama whether bound towards the Coast of Mexico or Peru. The 10th day we passed by Moro de Porcos or the Mountain of Hogs Why so called I know not it is a high round Hill on the Coast of Lavelia This side of the Bay of Panama runs out westerly to the Islands of Quibo there are on this Coast many Rivers and Creeks but none so large as those on the South side of the Bay It is a Coast that is partly mountainous partly low land and very thick of Woods bordering on the Sea but a few leagues within land it consists mostly of Savannahs which are stock'd with Bulls and Cows The Rivers on this side are not wholly destitute of Gold though not so rich as the Rivers on the other side of the Bay The Coast is but thinly inhabited for except the Rivers that lead up to the Towns of Nata and Lavelia I know of no other Settlement between Panama and Puebla Nova The Spaniards may travel by land from Panama through all the Kingdom of Mexico as being full of Savannahs but towards the Coast of Peru they cannot pass further than the River Cheapo the Land there being so full of thick Woods and watered with so many great Rivers besides less Rivers and Creeks that the Indians themselves who inhabit there cannot travel far without much trouble We met with very wet weather in our Voyage to Quibo and with S. S. W. and sometimes S. W. Winds which retarded our course It was the 15th day of June when we arrived at Quibo and found there Captain Harris whom we sought The Island Quibo or Cabaya is in lat 7d 14m North of the Equator It is about 6 or 7 leagues long and 3 or 4 broad The Land is low except only near the N. E. end It is all over plentifully stored with great tall flourishing Trees of many sorts and there is good water on the East and North East sides of the Island Here are some Deer and plenty of pretty large black Monkies whose Flesh is sweet and wholsome besides a few Guanoes and some Snakes I know no other sort of Land Animal on the Island There is a shole runs out from the S. E. point of the Island half a mile into the Sea and a league to the North of this shole point on the East side there is a Rock about a mile from the shore which at the last quarter ebb appears above Water Besides these two places there is no danger on this side but Ships may run within a quarter of a mile of the shore and anchor in 6 8 10 or 12 fathom good clean Sand and Oaze There are many other Islands lying some on the S. W. side others on the N. and N. E. sides of this Island as the Island Quicaro which is a pretty large Island S. W. of Quibo and on the North of it is a small Island called the Ranoheria on which Island are plenty of Palma-Maria Trees The Palma-Maria is a tall straight-bodied Tree with a small Head but very unlike the Palm-tree notwithstanding the Name It is greatly esteemed for making Masts being very tough as well as of a good length for the grain of the Wood runs not straight along it but twisting gradually about it These Trees grow in many places of the West Indies and are frequently used both by the English and Spaniards there for that use The Islands Canales and Cantarras are small Islands lying on the N. E. of Rancheria These have all Channels to pass between and good anchoring about them and they are as well stored with Trees and Water as Quibo Sailing without them all they appear to be part of the Main The Island Quibo is the largest and most noted for although the rest have Names yet they are seldom used only for distinction sake these and the rest of this knot passing all under the common name of the Keys of Quibo Captain Swan gave to several of these Islands the Names of those English Merchants and Gentlemen who were Owners of his Ship June 16th Captain Swan came to an anchor by us and then our Captains consulted about new methods to advance their fortunes and because they were now out of hopes to get any thing at Sea they resolved to try what the Land would afford They demanded of our Pilots what Towns on the Coast of Mexico they could carry us to The City of Leon being the chiefest in the Country any thing near us though a pretty way within Land was pitcht on But now we wanted Canoas to land our Men and we had no other way but to cut down Trees and make as many as we had occasion for these Islands affording plenty of large Trees fit for our purpose While this was doing we sent 150 Men to take Puebla Nova a Town upon the Main near the innermost of these Islands to get Provision It was in going to take this Town that Captain Sawkins was killed in the year 1680 who was succeeded by Sharp Our Men took the Town with much ease although there was more strength of Men than when Captain Sawkins was kill'd They returned again the 24th day but got no Provision there They took an empty Bark in their way and brought her to us The 5th day of July Captain Knight mentioned in my last Chapter came to us He had been cruising a great way to the Westward but got nothing beside a good Ship At last he went to the South-ward as high as the Bay of Guiaquil where he took a Bark-log or pair of Bark-logs as we call it laden chiefly with Flower She had other Goods as Wine Oyl Brandy Sugar Soap and Leather of Goats-skins and he took out as much of each as he had occasion for and then turned her away again The Master of the Float told him that the Kings Ships were gone from Lima towards Panama that they carried but half the Kings Treasure with them for fear of us although they had all the strength that the Kingdom could afford that all the Merchant Ships which should have gone with them were laden and lying at Payta where they were to wait for further orders Captain Knight having but few Men did not dare to go to Payta where if he had been better provided he might have taken them all but he made the best of his way into the Bay of Panama in hopes to find us there inriched with the Spoils of the Lima Fleet but coming to the Kings Islands he had advice by a Prisoner that we had ingaged with their Fleet but were worsted and since that made our way to the Westward and therefore he came hither to seek us He presently
were perfectly at a loss to find out the Houses or Town they came from The 28th day being tired and hopeless to find any Town we went aboard our Ships that were now come abrest of the place where we were for always when we leave our Ships we either order a certain place of meeting or else leave them a sign to know where we are by making one or more great Smoaks yet we had all like to have been ruin'd by such a signal as this in a former Voyage under Captain Sharp when we made that unfortunate attempt upon Arica which is mentioned in the History of the Buccaneers For upon the routing our Men and taking several of them some of those so taken told the Spaniards that it was agreed between them and their Companions on board to make two great Smokes at a distance from each other assoon as the Town should be taken as a signal to the Ship that it might safely enter the Harbour The Spaniards made these Smokes presently I was then among those who stay'd on board and whether the signal was not so exactly made or some other discouragement happen'd I remember not but we forbore going in till we saw our scatter'd Crew coming off in their Canoas Had we entred the Port upon the false signal we must have been taken or sunk for we must have past close by the Fort and could have had no Wind to bring us out till the Land-wind should rise in the night But to our present Voyage After we came aboard we saw the Volcan of Colima This is a very high Mountain in about 18d 36m North standing 5 or 6 leagues from the Sea in the midst of a pleasant Valley It appears with 2 sharp peeks from each of which there do always issue flames of fire or smoke The Valley in which this Volcan stands is called the Valley of Colima from the Town itself which stands there not far from the Volcan The Town is said to be great and rich the chief of all its Neighborhood and the Valley in which it is seated by the relation which the Spaniards give of it is the most pleasant and fruitful Valley in all the Kingdom of Mexico This Valley is about 10 or 12 leagues wide by the Sea where it makes a small Bay but how far the Vale runs into the Country I know not It is said to befull of Cacao gardens fields of Corn Wheat and Plantain-walks The neighbouring Sea is bounded with a sandy shore but there is no going ashore for the violence of the waves The Land within it is low all along and Woody for about 2 leagues from the East side at the end of the Woods there is a deep River runs out into the Sea but it hath such a great Bar or Sandy shole that when we were here no Boat or Canoa could possibly enter the Sea running so high upon the Bar otherwise I judge we should have made some farther discovery into this pleasant Valley On the West side of the River the Savannah land begins and runs to the other side of the Valley We had but little wind when we came aboard therefore we lay off this Bay that afternoon and the night ensuing The 29th day our Captains went away from our Ships with 200 men intending at the first convenient place to land and search about for a path for the Spanish Books make mention of 2 or 3 other Towns hereabouts especially one called Sallagua to the West of this Bay Our Canoas rowed along as near the shore as they could but the Sea went so high that they could not land About 10 or 11 a clock 2 Horsemen came near the shore and one of them took a Bottle out of his pocket and drank to ourmen While he was drinking one of our men snatcht up his Gun and let drive at him and kill'd his Horse so his consort immediately set Spurs to his Horse and rode away leaving the other to come after afoot But he being Booted made but slow haste therefore 2 of our men stript themselves and swam ashore to take him but he had a Macheat or long Knife wherewith he kept them both from seizing him they having nothing in their hands wherewith to defend themselves or offend him The 30th day our men came all aboard again for they could not find any place to land in The first day of December we passed by the Port of Sallagua This Port is in lat 18 d. 52 m. It is only a pretty deep Bay divided in the middle with a rocky point which makes as it were two Harbours Ships may ride securely in either but the West Harbour is the best there is good anchoring any where in 10 or 12 fathom and a Brook of fresh Water runs into the Sea Here we saw a great new thatched House and a great many Spaniards both Horse and Foot with Drums beating and Colours flying in defiance of us as we thought We took no notice of them till the next morning and then we landed about 200 Men to try their Courage but they presently withdrew The Foot never stay'd to exchange one shot but the Horsemen stay'd till 2 or 3 were knocked down and then they drew off our Men pursuing them At last 2 of our Men took 2 Horses that had lost their Riders and mounting them rode after the Spaniards full drive till they came among them thinking to have taken a Prisoner for Intelligence but had like to have been taken themselves for 4 Spaniards surrounded them after they had discharged their Pistols and unhorsed them and if some of our best Footmen had not come to their rescue they must have yielded or have been killed They were both cut in 2 or 3 places but their wounds were not mortal The 4 Spaniards got away before our Men could hurt them and mounting their Horses speeded after their Consorts who were marched away into the Country Our Men finding a broad Road leading into the Country followed it about 4 leagues in a dry stony Country full of short Woods but finding no sign of Inhabitants they returned again In their way back they took two Mulatto's who were not able to march as fast as their Consorts therefore they had skulked in the Woods and by that means thought to have escaped our Men. These Prisoners informed us that this great Road did lead to a great City called Oarrha from whence many of those Horsemen before spoken of came that this City was distant from hence as far as a Horse will go in 4 days and that there is no place of consequence nearer that the Country is very poor and thinly inhabited They said also that these Men came to assist the Phillippine Ship that was every day expected here to put ashore Passengers for Mexico The Spanish Pilot-Books mention a Town also called Sallagua hereabouts but we could not find it nor hear any thing of it by our Prisoners We now intended to cruize off of Cape
Corrientes to wait for the Phillippine Ship So the 6th day of December we set sail coasting to the Westwards towards Cape Corrientes We had fair weather and but little Wind the Sea breezes at N. W. and the Land-wind at N. The Land is of an indifferent heighth full of ragged points which at a distance appear like Islands the Country is very woody but the Trees are not high nor very big Here I was taken sick of a Fever and Ague that afterwards turned to a Dropsy which I laboured under a long time after and many of our Men died of this distemper though our Surgeons used their greatest skill to preserve their lives The Dropsy is a general distemper on this Coast and the Natives say that the best remedy they can find for it is the Stone or Cod of an Allegator of which they have 4 one near each Leg within the Flesh pulverized and drunk in Water this Receipt we also found mentioned in an Almanack made at Mexico I would have tried it but we found no Allegators here though there are several There are many good Harbours between Sallagua and Cape Corrientes but we passed by them all As we drew near the Cape the Land by the Sea appeared of an indifferent heighth full of white Cliffs but in the Country the Land is high and barren and full of sharp peeked Hills unpleasant to the sight To the West of this ragged Land is a chain of Mountains running parallel with the shore they end on the West with a gentle descent but on the East side they keep their heighth ending with a high steep Mountain which hath 3 small sharp peeked tops somewhat resembling a Crown and therefore called by the Spaniards Coronada the Crown Land The 11th day we were fair in sight of Cape Corrientes it bore N. by W. and the Crown Land bore North. The Cape is of an indifferent heighth with steep Rocks to the Sea It is flat and even on the top cloathed with Woods the Land in the Country is high and doubled This Cape lieth in 20 d. 28 m. North. I find its longitude from Tenariff to be 230 d. 56 m. but I keep my longitude Westward according to our course and according to this reckoning I find it is from the Lizard in England 121 d. 41 m. so that the difference of time is 8 hours and almost 6 minutes Here we had resolved to cruize for the Phillippine Ship because she always makes this Cape in her Voyage homeward We were as I have said 4 Ships in company Captain Swan and his Tender Captain Townly and his Tender It was so ordered that Captain Swan should lye 8 or 10 leagues off shore and the rest about a league distant each from other between him and the Cape that so we might not miss the Philippine Ship but we wanted Provision and therefore we sent Captain Townly's Bark with 50 or 60 men to the West of the Cape to search about for some Town or Plantations where we might get Provision of any sort The rest of us in the mean time cruizing in our stations The 17th day the Bark came to us again but had got nothing for they could not get about the Cape because the wind on this Coast is commonly between the N. W. and the S. W. which makes it very difficult getting to the Westward but they left 4 Canoas with 46 men at the Cape who resolved to row to the Westward The 18th day we sailed to the Keys of Chametly to fill our Water These Keys or Islands of Chametly are about 16 or 18 leagues to the Eastward of Cape Corrientes They are small low and woody invironed with Rocks there are 5 of them lying in the form of a half Moon not a mile from the shore and between them and the Main is very good Riding secure from any Wind. The Spaniards do report that here live Fishermen to fish for the Inhabitants of the City of Purification This is said to be a large Town the best hereabouts but is 14 leagues up in the Country The 20th instant we entered within these Islands passing in on the S. E. side and anchored between the Islands and the Main in 5 fathom clean Sand. Here we found good fresh Water and Wood and caught plenty of Rock-fish with Hook and Line a sort of Fish I describ'd at the Isle of John Fernando but we saw no sign of Inhabitants besides 3 or 4 old Hutts therefore I do believe that the Spanish or Indian Fishermen come hither only at Lent or some other such season but that they do not live here constantly The 21st day Captain Townly went away with about 60 men to take an Indian Village 7 or 8 leagues from hence to the Westward more towards the Cape and the next day we went to cruize off the Cape where Captain Townly was to meet us The 24th day as we were cruizing off the Cape the 4 Canoas before mentioned which Captain Townly's Bark left at the Cape came off to us They after the Bark left them past to the West of the Cape and rowed into the Valley Valderas or perhaps Val d' Iris for it signifies the Valley of Flags This Valley lies in the bottom of a pretty deep Bay that runs in between Cape Corrientes on the S. E. and the point of Pontique on the N. W. which two places are about 10 leagues asunder The Valley is about 3 leagues wide there is a level sandy Bay against the Sea and good smooth landing In the midst of the Bay is a fine River whereinto Boats may enter but it is brackish at the latter end of the dry Season which is in February March and part of April I shall speak more of the Seasons in my Chapter of Winds in the Appendix This Valley is bounded within Land with a small green Hill that makes a very gentle descent into the Valley and affords a very pleasant prospect to Sea-ward It is inriched with fruitful Savannahs mixt with Groves of Trees fit for any uses beside Fruit Trees in abundance as Guava's Oranges and Limes which here grow wild in such plenty as if Nature had designed it only for a Garden The Savannahs are full of fat Bulls and Cows and some Horses but no House in sight When our Canoas came to this pleasant Valley they landed 37 men and marched into the Country seeking for some Houses They had not gone past 3 mile before they were attackt by 150 Spaniards Horse and Foot There was a small thin Wood close by them into which our men retreated to secure themselves from the fury of the Horse Yet the Spaniards rode in among them and attackt them very furiously till the Spnnish Captain and 17 more tumbled dead off their Horses then the rest retreated being many of them wounded We lost 4 men and had 2 desperately wounded In this action the Foot who were armed with Lances and Swords and were the greatest number never made any attack
we came I mean by the North West I know there have been divers attempts made about a North West Passage and all unsuccessful yet I am of opinion that such a Passage may be found All our Countrymen that have gone to discover the N. W. Passage have endeavoured to pass to the Westward beginning their search along Davis's or Hudsons Bay But if I was to go on this Discovery I would go first into the South Seas bend my course from thence along by California and that way seek a Passage back into the West Seas For as others have spent the Summer in first searching on this more known side nearer home and so before they got through the time of the year obliged them to give over their search and provide for a long course back again for fear of being left in the Winter on the contrary I would search first on the less known Coasts of the South Sea side and then as the year past away I should need no retreat for I should come farther into my knowledge if I succeeded in my attempt and should be without that dread and fear which the others must have in passing from the known to the unknown who for ought I know gave over their search just as they were on the point of accomplishing their desires I would take the same method if I was to go to discover the North East Passage I would winter about Japan Corea or the North East part of China and taking the Spring and Summer before me I would make my first Trial on the Coast of Tartary wherein if I succeeded I should come into some known parts and have a great deal of time before me to reach Archangel or some other Port. Captain Wood indeed says this North East Passage is not to be found for Ice but how often do we see that sometimes designs have been given over as impossible and at another time and by other ways those very things have been accomplished But enough of this The next day after that fatal Skirmish near Santa Pecaque Captain Swan ordered all our Water to be fill d and to get ready to sail The 21st day we sailed from hence directing our course towards California we had the Wind at N. W. and W. N. W. a small gale with a great Sea out of the West We past by 3 Islands called the Maria's After we past these Islands we had much Wind at N. N. W. and N. W. and at N. with thick rainy weather We beat till the 6th day of February but it was against a brisk Wind and proved labour in vain For we were now within reach of the Land Trade-wind which was opposite to us but would we go to California upon any Discovery or otherwise we should bear 60 or 70 leagues off from shore where we should avoid the Land-winds and have the benefit of the true Easterly Trade-wind Finding therefore that we got nothing but rather lost ground being then in 21 d. 5 m. N. we steered away more to the Eastward again for the Islands Maria's and the 7th day we came to an anchor at the East end of the middle Island in 8 fathom Water good clean Sand. The Maria's are three uninhabited Islands in lat 21 d. 40 m. they are distant from Cape St. Lucas on California 40 leagues bearing West South West and they are distant from Cape Corrientes 20 leagues bearing upon the same points of the Compass with Cape St. Lucas They stretch N. W. and S. E. about 14 leagues There are 2 or 3 small high Rocks near them The Westermost of them is the biggest Island of the three and they are all three of an indifferent heighth The soil is stony and dry the land in most places is covered with a shrubby sort of Wood very thick and troublesome to pass through In some places there is plenty of straight large Cedars though speaking of the places where I have found Cedars Chap. 3. I forgot to mention this place The Spaniards make mention of them in other places but I speak of those which I have seen All round by the Sea side it is sandy and there is produced a green prickly Plant whose leaves are much like the Penguin-leaf and the root like the root of a Seâ—…pervive but much larger This root being bak d in an Oven is good to eat and the Indians on California as I have been informed have great part of their subsistence from these roots We made an Oven in a sandy Bank and baked of these Roots and I eat of them but none of us greatly cared for them They taste exactly like the Roots of our English Burdocks boil'd of which I have eaten Here are plenty of Guanoes and Raccoons a large sort of Rat and Indian Conies and abundance of large Pigeons and Turtle-Doves The Sea is also pretty well stored with Fish and Turtle or Tortoise and Seal This is the second place on this Coast where I did see any Seal and this place helps to confirm what I have observed that they are seldom seen but where there is plenty of Fish Captain Swan gave the middle Island the Name of Prince George's Island The 8th day we run nearer the Island and anchored in 5 fathom and moored Head and Stern and unrigg d both Ship and Bark in order to careen Here Captain Swan proposed to go into the East Indies Many were well pleased with the Voyage but some thought such was their ignorance that he would carry them out of the world for about 2 thirds of our Men did not think there was any such way to be found but at last he gain'd their consents At our first coming hither we did eat nothing but Seal but after the first 2 or 3 days our Strikers brought aboard Turtle every day on which we fed all the time that we lay here and saved our Maiz for our Voyage Here also we measured all our Maiz and found we had about 80 Bushels This we divided into 3 parts one for the Bark and two for the Ship our Men were divided also 100 men aboard the Ship and 50 aboard the Bark besides 3 or 4 Slaves in each I had been a long time sick of a Dropsy a distemper whereof as I said before many of our men died so here I was laid and covered all but my head in the hot Sand I indured it near half an hour and then was taken out and laid to sweat in a Tent. I did sweat exceedingly while I was in the Sand and I do believe it did me much good for I grew well soon after We staid here till the 26th day and then both Vessels being clean we sailed to the Valley of Balderas to water for we could not do it here now In the wet Season indeed here is Water enough for the Brooks then run down plentifully but now though there was Water yet it was bad filling it being a great way to fetch it from the holes were it lodged The
Islands about 30 leagues off and there do their business and return again in less than 12 hours I was told that one of these Boats was sent Express to Manila which is above 400 leagues and performed the Voyage in 4 days time There are of these Proes or Boats used in many places of the East Indies but with a Belly and a little Boat on each side Only at Mindanao I saw one like these with the belly and little Boat only on one side and the other flat but not so neatly built The Indians of Guam have neat little Houses very handsomely thatch'd with Palmeto-thatch They inhabit together in Villages built by the Sea on the West side and have Spanish Priests to instruct them in the Christian Religion The Spaniards have a small Fort on the West side near the South end with 6 Guns in it There is a Governour and 20 or 30 Spanish Souldiers There are no more Spaniards on the Island beside 2 or 3 Priests Not long before we arriv'd here the Natives rose on the Spaniards to destroy them and did kill many but the Governour with his Souldiers at length prevailed and drove them out of the Fort So when they found themselves disappointed of their intent they destroyed the Plantations and stock and then went away to other Islands There were then 3 or 400 Indians on this Island but now there are not above 100 for all that were in this Conspiracy went away As for these who yet remain if they were not actually concerned in that broil yet their hearts also are bent against the Spaniards for they offered to carry us to the Fort and assist us in the Conquest of the Island but C. Swan was not for molesting the Spaniards here Before we came to an anchor here one of the Priests came aboard in the night with 3 Indians They first hailed us to know from whence we came and what we were to whom answer was made in Spanish that we were Spaniards and that we came from Acapulco It being dark they could not see the make of our Ship nor very well discern what we were Therefore they came aboard but perceiving the mistake that they were in in taking us for a Spanish Ship they endeavoured to get from us again but we held their Boat fast and made them come in Captain Swan received the Priest with much civility and conducting him into the great Cabbin declared that the reason of our coming to this Island was want of Provision and that he came not in any hostile manner but as a friend to purchase with his Money what he wanted and therefore desired the Priest to write a Letter to the Governor to inform him what we were and on what account we came For having him now aboard the Captain was willing to detain him as an Hostage till we had Provision The Padre told Captain Swan that Provision was now scarce on the Island but he would engage that the Governour would do his utmost to furnish us In the morning the Indians in whose Boat or Prow the Frier came aboard were sent to the Governour with 2 Letters one from the Frier and another very obliging one from Captain Swan and a Present of 4 yards of Scarlet-cloath and a piece of broad Silver and Gold Lace The Governor lives near the South end of the Island on the West side which was about 5 leagues from the place where we were therefore we did not expect an answer till the evening not knowing then how nimble they were Therefore when the Indian Canoa was dispatched away to the Governor we hoised out 2 of our Canoas and sent one a fishing and the other ashore for Coco-nuts Our fishing Canoa got nothing but the Men that went ashore for Coco-nuts came off laden About 11 a clock that same morning the Governor of the Island sent a Letter to Captain Swan complimenting him for his Present and promising to support us with as much Provision as he could possibly spare and as a token of his gratitude he sent a Present of 6 Hogs of a small sort most excellent Meat the best I think that ever I eat they are fed with Coco-nuts and their flesh is hard as Brisket Beef They were doubtless of that breed in America which came originally from Spain He sent also 12 Muskmelons larger than ours in England and as many Water-melons both sorts here being a very excellent Fruit and sent an order to the Indians that lived in a Village not far from our Ship to bake every day as much of the Bread-fruit as we did desire and to assist us in getting as many dry Coco-nuts as we would have which they accordingly did and brought off the Bread-fruit every day hot as much as we could eat After this the Governour sent every day a Canoa or two with Hogs and Fruit and desired for the same Powder Shot and Arms which was sent according to his request We had a delicate large English Dog which the Governour did desire and had it given him very freely by the Captain though much against the grain of many of his Men who had a great value for that Dog Captain Swan endeavoured to get this Governours Letter of Recommendation to some Merchants at Manila for he had then a design to go to Fort St. George and from thence intended to trade to Manila but this his design was concealed from the company While we lay here the Acapulco Ship arrived in sight of the Island but did not come in sight of us for the Governour sent an Indian Proe with advice of our being here Therefore she stood off to the South-ward of the Island and coming foul of the same shole that our Bark had run over before was in great danger of being lost there for she struck off her Rudder and with much ado got clear but not till after three days labour For tho the shole be so near the Island and the Indians go off and fish there every day yet the Master of the Acapulco Ship who should one would think know these parts was utterly ignorant of it This their striking on the shole we heard afterward when we were on the Coast of Manila but these Indians of Guam did speak of her being in sight of the Island while we lay there which put our men in a great heat to go out after her but Captain Swan perswaded them out of that humour for he was now wholly averse to any hostile action The 30th day of May the Governour sent his last Present which was some Hogs a Jar of pickled Mangoes a Jar of excellent pickled Fish and a Jar of fine Rusk or Bread of fine Wheat Flower baked like Bisket but not so hard He sent besides 6 or 7 packs of Rice desiring to be excused from sending any more Provision to us saying he had no more on the Island that he could spare He sent word also that the West Monsoon was at hand that therefore it behoved
Besides these there are an infinite number of small Islands of no account and even the great Islands many of them are without Names or at least so variously set down that I find the same Islands named by divers Names The Island St. John and Mindanao are the Southern-most of all these Islands and are the only Islands in all this Range that are not subject to the Spaniards St. Johns Island is on the East side of the Mindanao and distant from it 3 or 4 leagues It is in lat about 7 or 8 North. This Island is in length about 38 leagues stretching N. N. W. and S. S. E. and it is in breadth about 24 leagues in the middle of the Island The Northermost end is broader and the Southermost is narrower This Island is of a good heighth and is full of many small hills The Land at the South East end where I was ashore is of a black fat mould and the whole Island seems to partake of the same fatness by the vast number of large Trees that it produceth for it looks all over like one great Grove As we were passing by the S. E. end we saw a Canoa of the Natives under the shore therefore one of our Canoas went after to have spoken with her but she run away from us seeing themselves chaced put their Canoa ashore leaving her fled into the Woods nor would be allured to come to us altho we did what we could to entice them besides these Men we saw no more here nor sign of any Inhabitants at this end When we came aboard our Ship again we steered away for the Island Mindanao which was now fair in sight of us it being about 10 leagues distant from this part of St. Johns The 22d day we came within a league of the East side of the Island Mindanao and having the Wind at S. E. we steered toward the North end keeping on the East side till we came into the lat of 7d 40 m. and there we anchored in a small Bay about a mile from the shore in 10 fathom Water rocky foul ground Some of our Books gave us an account that Mindanao City and Isle lies in 7d 40 m. we guest that the middle of the Island might lye in this lat but we were at a great loss where to find the City whether on the East or West side Indeed had it been a small Island lying open to the Eastern Wind we might probably have searched first on the West side for commonly the Islands within the Tropicks or within the bounds of the Trade-Winds have their Harbours on the West sido as best sheltered but the Island Mindanao being guarded on the East side by St. Johns Island we might as reasonably expect to find the Harbour and City on this side as any where else but coming into the lat in which we judg'd the City might be found no Canoas or People that might give as any umbrage of a City or place of Trade near at hand though we coasted within a league of the shore The Island Mindanao is the biggest of all the Philippine Islands except Luconia It is about 60 leagues long and 40 or 50 broad The South end is in about 5 d. N. and the N. W. end reacheth almost to 8 d. N. It is a very mountainous Island full of Hills and Valleys The Mould in general is deep and black and extraordinary fat and fruitful The sides of the Hills are stony yet productive enough of very large tall Trees In the heart of the Country there are some Mountains that yield good Gold The Valleys are well moistned with pleasant Brooks and small Rivers of delicate Water and have Trees of divers sorts flourishing and green all the year The Trees in general are very large and most of them are of kinds unknown to us There is one sort which deserves particular notice called by the Natives Libby Trees These grow wild in great Groves of 5 or 6 mile long by the sides of the Rivers Of these Trees Sago is made which the poor Country People eat instead of Bread 3 or 4 months in the year This Tree for its body and shape is much like the Palmeto tree or the Cabbage tree but not so tall as the latter The Bark and Wood is hard and thin like a Shell and full of white Pith like the Pith of an Elder This Tree they cut down and split it in the middle and scrape out all the Pith which they beat lustily with a wooden Pestle in a great Mortar or Trough and then put into a Cloth or Strainer held over a Trough and pouring Water in among the Pith they stir it about in the Cloth so the Water carries all the substance of the Pith through the Cloth down into the Trough leaving nothing in the Cloth but a light sort of Husk which they throw away but that which falls into the Trough settles in a short time to the bottom like Mud and then they draw off the Water and take up the muddy substance wherewith they make Cakes which being baked proves very good Bread The Mindanao People live 3 or 4 months of the year on this food for their Bread kind The Native Indians of Teranate and Tidore and all the Spice Islands have plenty of these Trees and use them for food in the same manner as I have been inform'd by Mr. Caril Rofy who is now Commander of one of the Kings Ships He was one of our company at this time and being left with Captain Swan at Mindanao went afterwards to Teranate and lived there among the Dutch a year or two The Sago which is transported into other parts of the East Indies is dried in small pieces like little Seeds or Comfits and commonly eaten with Milk of Almonds by those that are troubled with the Flux for it is a great binder and very good in that distemper In some places of Mindanao there is plenty of Rice but in the hilly Land they plant Yams Potatoes and Pumkins all which thrive very well The other Fruits of this Island are Water-Melons Musk-Melons Plantains Bonanoes Guava's Nutmegs Cloves Betel-nuts Durians Jacks or Jaca's Coco-nuts Oranges c. The Plantain I take to be the King of all Fruit not except the Coco it self The Tree that bears this Fruit is about 3 foot or 3 foot and an half round and about 10 or 12 foot high These Trees are not raised from seed for they seem not to have any but from the roots of other old Trees If these young suckers are taken out of the ground and planted in another place it will be 15 months before they bear but if let stand in their own native Soil they will bear in 12 months As soon as the Fruit is ripe the Tree decays but then there are many young ones growing up to supply its place When this Tree first springs out of the ground it comes up with 2 leaves and by that time it is a foot
we might keep it solemnly together And accordingly he sent aboard a Buffaloe the day before that we might have a good Dinner So the 25th day about 10 a clock Captain Swan came aboard and all his Men who were ashore For you must understand that near a third of our men lived constantly ashore with their Comrades and Pagallies and some with Women-servants whom they hired of their Masters for Concubines Some of our men also had Houses which they hired or bought for Houses are very cheap for 5 or 6 Dollars For many of them having more money than they knew what to do with eased themselves here of the trouble of telling it spending it very lavishly their prodigality making the people impose upon them to the making the rest of us pay the dearer for what we bought and to the endangering the like impositions upon such Englishmen as may come here hereafter For the Mindanaians knew how to get our Squires Gold from them for we had no Silver and when our men wanted Silver they would change now and then an Ounce of Gold and could get for it no more then 10 or 11 Dollars for a Mindanao Ounce which they would not part with again under 18 Dollars Yet this and the great prices they set on their Goods were not the only way to lessen their stocks for their Pagallies and Comrades would often be begging somewhat of them and our men were generous enough and would bestow half an ounce of Gold at a time in a Ring for their Pagallies or in a Silver Wrist-band or Hoop to come about their Arms in hopes to get a nights Lodging with them When we were all aboard on Christmas-day Captain Swan and his two Merchants I did expect that Captain Swan would have made some proposals or have told us his designs but he only dined and went ashore again without speaking any thing of his mind Yet even then I do think that he was driving on a design of going to one of the Spice Islands to load with Spice for the young man before mentioned who I said was sent by his Unkle the Sultan of a Spice Island near Ternate to invite the English to their Island came aboard at this time and after some private discourse with Captain Swan they both went ashore together This young man did not care that the Mindanaians should be privy to what he said I have heard Captain Swan say that he offered to load his Ship with Spice provided he would build a small Fort and leave some men to secure the Island from the Dutch but I am since informed that the Dutch have now got possession of the Island The next day after Christmas the General went away again and 5 or 6 Englishmen with him of whom I was one under pretence of going a hunting and we all went together by Water in his Proe together with his Women and Servants to the hunting place The General always carried his Wives and Children his Servants his Money and Goods with him so we all imbarked in the morning and arrived there before night I have already described the fashion of their Proes and the rooms made in them We were entertained in the Generals Room or Cabbin Our Voyage was not so far but that we reached our Port before night At this time one of the Generals Servants had offended and was punished in this manner He was bound fast flat on his Belly on a Bambou belonging to the Proe which was so near the Water that by the Vessels motion it frequently delved under water and the man along with it and sometime when hoisted up he had scarce time to blow before he would be carried under Water again When we had rowed about two leagues we entered a pretty large deep River and rowed up a league further the Water salt all the way There was a pretty large Village the Houses built after the Country fashion We landed at this place where there was a House made ready immediately for us The General and his Women lay at one end of the house and we at the other end and in the evening all the Women in the Village danced before the General While he staid here the General with his men went out every morning betimes and did not return till 4 or 5 a clock in the afternoon and he would often complement us by telling us what good trust and confidence he had in us saying that he left his Women and Goods under our protection and that he thought them as secure with us six for we had all our Arms with us as if he had left 100 of his own men to guard them Yet for all this great confidence he always left one of his principal men for fear some of us should be too familiar with his Women They did never stir out of their own Room when the General was at home but as soon as he was gone out they would presently come into our Room and sit with us all day and ask a thousand questions of us concerning our English Women and our customs You may imagin that before this time some of us had attained so much of their Language as to understand them and give them answers to their demands I remember that one day they asked how many Wives the King of England had we told them but one and that our English Laws did not allow of any more They said it was a very strange custom that a Man should be confined to one Woman some of them said it was a very bad Law but others again said it was a good Law so there was a great dispute among them about it But one of the General 's Women said positively that our Law was better than theirs and made them all silent by the reason which she gave for it This was the War Queen as we called her for she did always accompany the General when-ever he was called out to engage his Enemies but the rest did not By this familiarity among the Women and by often discoursing them we came to be acquainted with their customs and priviledges The General lies with his Wives by turns but she by whom he had the first Son has a double portion of his company for when it comes to her turn she has him two nights whereas the rest have him but one She with whom he is to lye at night seems to have a particular respect shewn her by the rest all the precedent day and for a mark of distinction wears a striped silk Handerchief about her Neck by which we knew who was Queen that day We lay here about 5 or 6 days but did never in all that time see the least sign of any Beef which was the business we came about neither were we suffered to go out with the General to see the wild kind but we wanted for nothing else However this did not please us and we often importuned him to let us go out among the Cattle At last he
for the Europeans coming Eastward by the Cape of Good Hope in a course contrary to the Sun and us where-ever we met they were a full day before us in their Accounts So among the Indian Mahometans here their Friday the day of their Sultans going to their Mosques was Thursday with us though it were Friday also with those who came Eastward from Europe Yet at the Ladrone Islands we found the Spaniards of Guam keeping the same computation with our selves the reason of which I take to be that they settled that Colony by a course Westward from Spain the Spaniards going first to America and thence to the Ladrones and Philippines But how the reckoning was at Manila and the rest of the Spanish Colonies in the Philippine Islands I know not whether they keep it as they brought it or corrected it by the Accounts of the Natives and of the Portuguese Dutch and English coming the contrary way from Europe One great reason why Seamen ought to keep the difference of time as exact as they can is that they may be the more exact in their Lo ngitude For our Tables of the Suns declination being calculated for the Meridians of the places in which they were made differ about 12 minutes from those parts of the World that lie on their opposite Meridians in the months of March and September and in proportion to the Suns declination at other times of the year also And should they run farther as we did the difference would still increase upon them and be an occasion of great errours Yet even able Seamen in these Voyages are hardly made sensible of this tho so necessary to be observed for want of duly attending to the reason of it as it happened among those of our crew who after we had past 180 degrees began to decrease the difference of declination whereas they ought still to have increased it for it all the way increased upon us We had the Wind at N. N. E. fair clear Weather and a brisk gale We coasted to the West-ward on the South side of the Island Mindanao keeping within 4 or 5 leagues of the shore The Land from hence trends away W. by S. It is of a good heighth by the Sea and very Woody and in the Country we say high Hills The next day we were abrest off Chambongo a Town in this Island and 30 leagues from the River of Mindanao Here is said to be a good Harbour and a great settlement with plenty of Beef and Buffaloe It is reported that the Spaniards were formerly fortified here also There are 2 shoals lie off this place 2 or 3 leagues from the shore From hence the Land is more low and even yet there are some Hills in the Country About 6 leagues before we came to the West end of the Island Mindanao we fell in with a great many small low Islands or Keys and about 2 or 3 leagues to the Southward of these Keys there is a long Island stretching N. E. and S. W. about 12 leagues This Island is low by the Sea on the North side and has a ridge of Hills in the middle running from one end to the other Between this Island and the small Keys there is a good large Channel Among the Keys also there is good depth of Water and a violent Tide but on what point of the compass it flows I know not nor how much it riseth and falls The 17th day we anchored on the East side of all these Keys in 8 fathom water clean Sand. Here are plenty of green Turtle whose flesh is as sweet as any in the West Indies but they are very shy A little to the Westward of these Keys on the Island Mindanan we saw abundance of Coco-nut Trees Therefore we sent our Canoa ashore thinking to find Inhabitants but found none nor sign of any but great tracks of Hogs and great Cattle and close by the Sea there were the ruins of an old Fort. The Walls thereof were of a good heighth built with Stone and Lime and by the Wokrmanship seem'd to be Spanish From this place the Land trends W. N. W. and is of an indifferent heighth by the Sea It run on this point of the Compass 4 or 5 leagues and then the Land trends away N. N. W. 5 or 6 leagues farther making with many bluff points We weigh'd again the 14th day and went thro between the Keys but met such uncertain Tydes that we were forced to anchor again The 22d day we got about the Westermost point of all Mindanao and stood to the Northward plying under the shore and having the Wind at N. N. E. a fresh gale As we sailed along further we found the Land to trend N. N. E. On this part of the Island the Land is high by the Sea with full bluff points and very Woody There are some small sandy Bays which afford streams of fresh Water Here we met with two Proe's belonging to the 〈◊〉 one of the Mindanaian Nations before mentioned They came from Manila laden with Silks and Calicoes We kept on this Western part of the Island steering Northerly till we came abrest of some other of the Philippine Islands that lay to the Northward of us then steered away towards them but still keeping on the West side of them and we had the Winds at N. N. E. The 3d of February we anchored in a good bay on the West side of an Island in lat 9 d. 55 m. where we had 13 fathom Water good soft oaze This Island hath no name that we could find in any book but lieth on the West side of Island Sebo It is about 8 or 10 leagues long Mountainous and Woody At this place Captain Read who was the same Captain Swan had so much railed against in his Journal and was now made Captain in his room as Captain Teat was made Master and Mr. Henry More Quartermaster ordered the Carpenters to cut down our Quarter Deck to make the Ship snug and the fitter for sailing When that was done we heeled her scrubbed her bottom and tallowed it Then we fill'd all our Water for here is a delicate small run of Water The Land was pretty low in this Bay the Mould black and fat and the Trees of several kinds very thick and tall In some places we found plenty of Canes such as we use in England for Walking-canes These were short jointed not above two foot and a half or two foot ten inches the longest and most of them not above two foot They run along on the ground like a Vine or taking hold of the Trees they climb up to their very tops They are 15 or 20 fathom long and much of a bigness from the root till within 5 or 6 fathom of the end They are of a pale green colour cloathed over with a coat of a short thick hairy substance of a dun colour but it comes off by only drawing the Cane thro your hand We did cut many of them
strength it had how they were afraid of us there and of the accident that happen'd to them as is before mentioned in the 10th Chapter We took these two Vessels within 7 or 8 leagues of Manila Luconia I have spoken of already but I shall now add this further account of it It is a great Island taking up between 6 and 7 degrees of Lat. in length and its breadth near the middle is about 60 leagues but the ends are narrow The North end lies in about 19 d. North Lat. and the S. end in about 12 d. 30 m. This great Island hath abundance of small Keys or Islands lying about it especially at the North end The South side fronts towards the rest of the Philippine Islands of these that are its nearest Neighbours Mindora lately mentioned is the chief and gives name to the Sea or Streight that parts it and the other Islands from Luconia being called the Streights of Mindora A Prospect of y e Coast of y e I. Luconia near Manila at 6 L. off Shore y e highest Pike bearing East Thus the Islands Pulo Condor appear at 8 L. distance bearing South It is pretty well inhabited with Indians most of them if not all under the Spaniards who now are masters of it The Native Indians do live together in Towns and they have Priests among them to instruct them in the Spanish Religion Manila the chief or perhaps only City lies at the foot of a ridge of high Hills facing upon a spacious harbour near the S. W. point of the Island in about the Lat. of 14 d. North. It is environ'd with a high strong Wall and very well fortify'd with Forts and Breastworks The Houses are large strongly built and covered with Pan-tile The Streets are large and pretty regular with a Parade in the midst after the Spanish fashion There a great many fair Buildings besides Churches and other Religious houses of which there are not a few The Harbour is so large that some hundreds of Ships may ride here and is never without many both of their own and strangers I have already given you an account of the two Ships going and coming between this place and Acapulco Besides them they have some small Vessels of their own and they do allow the Portuguese to Trade here but the Chinese are the chiefest Merchants and they drive the greatest Trade for they have commonly 20 or 30 or 40 Jonks in the Harbour at a time and a great many Merchants constantly residing in the City beside Shop-keepers and Handy-crafts men in abundance Small Vessels run up near the Town but the Acapulco Ships and others of greater burthen lye a league short of it where there is a strong Fort also and Store-houses to put Goods in I had the major part of this relation 2 or 3 years after this time from Mr. Coppinger our Surgeon for he made a Voyage hither from Porta Nova a Town on the Coast of Coromandel in a Portugueze Ship as I think Here he found 10 or 12 of Captain Swan's men some of those that we left at Mindanao For after we came from thence they bought a Proe there by the instigation of an Irish-man who went by the name of John Fitz-Gerald a person that spoke Spanish very well and so in this their Proe they came hither They had been here but 18 months when Mr. Coppinger arrived here and Mr. Fitz-Gerald had in this time gotten a Spanish Mustesa Woman to Wife and a good Dowry with her He then professed Physick and Surgery and was highly esteemed among the Spaniards for his supposed Knowledge in those Arts For being always troubled with sore Shins while he was with us he kept some Plaisters and Salves by him and with these he set up upon his bare natural stock of knowledge and his Experience in Kibes But then he had a very great stock of confidence withal to help out the other and being an Irish Roman Catholick and having the Spanish Language he had a great advantage of all his Consorts and he alone lived well there of them all We were not within sight of this Town but I was shewn the Hills that over-looked it and drew a draft of them as we lay off at Sea which I have caused to be ingraven among a few others that I took my self See the Table The time of the year being now too far spent to do any thing here it was concluded to sail from hence to Pulo Condore a little parcel of Islands on the Coast of Cambodia and carry this prize with us and there careen if we could find any convenient place for it designing to return hither again by the latter end of May and wait for the Acapulco Ship that comes about that time By our Drafts which we were guided by being strangers to these parts this seemed to us then to be a place out of the way where we might lye snug for a while and wait the time of returning for our prey For we avoided as much as we could the going to lye by at any great place of Commerce lest we should become too much exposed and perhaps be assulted by a force greater than our own So having set our Prisoners ashore we sailed from Luconia the 26th day of Feb. with the Wind E. N. E. and fair weather and a brisk gale We were in lat 14d N. when we began to steer away for Pulo Condore and we steered S. by W. In our way thither we went pretty near the Shoals of Pracel and other Shoals which are very dangerous We were very much afraid of them but escaped them without so much as seeing them only at the very South end of the Pracel Shoals we saw 3 little sandy Islands or Spots of Sand standing just above water within a mile of us It was the 13th day of March before we came in sight of Pulo Condore or the Island Condore as Pulo signifies The 14th day about noon we anchored on the North side of the Island against a sandy Bay 2 mile from the shore in 10 fathom clean hard Sand with both Ship and Prize Pulo Condore is the principal of a heap of Islands and the only inhabited one of them They lye in lat 8 d. 40. m. North and about 20 leagues South and by East from the mouth of the River of Cambodia These Islands lye so near together that at a distance they appear to be but one Island Two of these Islands are pretty large and of a good heighth they may be seen 14 or 15 leagues at Sea the rest are but little Spots The biggest of the two which is the inhabited one is about 4 or 5 leagues long and lies East and West It is not above 3 mile broad at the broadest place in most places not above a mile wide The other large Island is about 3 mile long and half a mile wide This Island stretcheth N. and S. It is so conveniently placed at the West end
received this information by a Letter from the Frier that Captain Weldon brought away from thence But to proceed The 5th day of May we ran down on the West side of the Island Nicobar properly so called and anchored at the N. W. end of it in a small Bay in 8 fathom water not half a mile from the shore The body of this Island is in 7 d. 30 m. North Lat. it is about 12 leagues long and 3 or 4 broad The South end of it is pretty high with steep Cliffs against the Sea the rest of the Island is low flat and even The mold of it is black and deep and it is very well watered with small running streams It produceth abundance of tall Trees fit for any uses for the whole bulk of it seems to be but one entire Grove But that which adds most to its beauty off at Sea are the many spots of Coco-nut Trees which grow round it in every small Bay The Bays are half a mile or a mile long more or less and these Bays are intercepted or divided from each other with as many little rocky points of VVoodland As the Coco-nut Trees do thus grow in Groves fronting to the Sea in the Bays so there is another sort of Fruit Tree in the Bays bordering on the backside of the Coco Trees farther from the Sea It is called by the Natives a Melory Tree This Tree is as big as our large Apple Trees and as high It hath a blackish rind and a pretty broad leaf The Fruit is as big as the Bread-fruit at Guam described in Chapter X. or a large Penny Loaf It is shaped like a Pear and hath a pretty tough smooth rind of a light green colour The inside of the Fruit is in substance much like an Apple but full of small strings as big as a brown thread I did never see of these Trees any where but here The Natives of this Island are tall well-limb'd Men pretty long visaged with black Eyes their Noses middle proportioned and the whole Symmetry of their Faces agreeing very well Their Hair is black and lank and their Skins of a dark copper colour The Women have no Hair on their Eye-brows I do believe it is pluckt up by the roots for the Men had Hair growing on their Eye-brows as other People The Men go all naked save only a long narrow piece of cloath or Sash which going round their Wastes and thence down between their Thighs is brought up behind and tuckt in at that part which goes about the Waste The Women have a kind of a short Petticoat reaching from their Waste to their Knees Their Language was different from any that I had ever heard before yet they had some few Malayan words and some of them had a word or two of Portuguese which probably they might learn aboard of their Ships passing by this place for when these Men see a Sail they do presently go aboard of them in their Canoas I did not perceive any Form of Religion that they had they had neither Temple nor Idol nor any manner of outward veneration to any Deity that I did see They inhabit all round the Island by the Sea side in the Bays there being 4 or 5 Houses more or less in each Bay Their Houses are built on Posts as the Mindanaians are They are small low and of a square form There is but one Room in each House and this Room is about 8 foot from the ground and from thence the roof is raised about 8 foot higher But instead of a sharp ridge the top is exceeding neatly arched with small Rafters about the bigness of a Mans Arm bent round like a Half-Moon and very curiously thatched with Palmeto-leaves They live under no Government that I could perceive for they seem to be equal without any distinction every Man ruling in his own House Their Plantations are only those Coco-nut Trees which grow by the Sea side there being no cleared Land farther in on the Island for I observ'd that when past the Fruit Trees there were no paths to be seen going into the Woods The greatest use which they make of their Coco-Trees is to draw Toddy from them of which they are very fond The Melory Trees seem to grow wild they have great Earthen Pots to boil the Melory Fruit in which will hold 12 or 14 Gallons These Pots they fill with the Fruit and putting in a little water they cover the mouth of the Pot with leaves to keep in the steam while it boils When the Fruit is soft they peel off the rind and scrape the pulp from the strings with a flat stick made like a Knife and then make it up in great lumps as big as a Holland Cheese and then it will keep 6 or 7 days It looks yellow and tastes well and is their chiefest food for they have no Yams Potatoes Rice nor Plantains except a very few yet they have a few small Hogs and a very few Cocks and Hens like ours The Men imploy themselves in Fishing but I did not see much Fish that they got every House hath at least 2 or 3 Canoas belonging to it which they draw up ashore The Canoas that they go a fishing in are sharp at both ends and both the sides and the bottom are very thin and smooth They are shaped somewhat like the Proes at Guam with one side flattish and the other with a pretty big belly and they have small slight Outlagers on one side Being thus thin and light they are better managed with Oars than with Sails yet they sail well enought and are steer'd with a Paddle There commonly go 20 or 30 Men in one of these Canoas and seldom fewer than 9 or 10. Their Oars are short and they do not paddle but row with them as we do The Benches they sit on when they row are made of split Bambo's laid across and so near together that they look like a Deck The Bambos lie moveable so that when any go in to row they take up a Bambo in the place where they would sit and lay it by to make room for their Legs The Canoas of those of the rest of these Islands were like those of Nicobar and probably they were alike in other things for we saw no difference at all in the Natives of them who came hither while we were here But to proceed with our affairs it was as I said before the 5th day of May about 10 in the morning when we anchored at this Island Captain Read immediately ordered his Men to heel the Ship in order to clean her which was done this day and the next All the Water Vessels were fill'd they intending to go to Sea at night for the winds being yet at N. N. E. the Captain was in hopes to get over to Cape Comorin before the wind shifted Otherwise it would have been somewhat difficult for him to get thither because the Westerly Monsoon was now at hand I thought
detestation on actions which before I disliked but now I trembled at the remembrance of I had long before this repented me of that rovingcourse of life but never with such concern as now I did also call to mind the many miraculous acts of Gods Providence towards me in the whole course of my life of which kind I believe few men have met with the like For all these I returned thanks in a peculiar manner and this once more desired Gods assistance and composed my mind as well as I could in the hopes of it and as the event shew'd I was not disappointed of my hopes Submitting our selves therefore to Gods good providence and taking all the care we could to preserve our lives Mr. Hall and I took turns to steer and the rest took turns to heave out the Water and thus we provided to spend the most doleful night I ever was in About 10 a clock it began to Thunder Lighten and Rain but the Rain was very welcom to us having drank up all the Water we brought from the Island The Wind at first blew harder than before but within half an hour it abated and became more moderate and the Sea also asswaged of its fury and then by a lighted Match of which we kept a piece burning on purpose we looked on our Compass to see how we steered and found our course to be still East We had no occasion to look on the Compass before for we steered right before the Wind which if it had shifted we had been obliged to have altered our couse accordingly But now it being abated we found our Vessel lively enough with that small sail which was then aboard to hale to our former course S. S. E. which accordingly we did being now in hopes again to get to the Island Sumatra But about 2 a clock in the morning of the 19th day we had another gust of Wind with much Thunder Lightening and Rain which lasted till day and obliged us to put before the Wind again steering thus for several hours It was very dark and the hard Rain soaked us so throughly that we had not one dry thread about us The Rain chill'd us extreamly for any fresh water is much colder than that of the Sea For even in the coldest Climates the Sea is warm and in the hottest Climates the Rain is cold and unwholesome for mans body In this wet starveling plight we spent the tedious night Never did poor Mariners on a Lee-shore more earnestly long for the dawning light than we did now At length the day appeared but with such dark black Clouds near the Horizon that the first glimpse of the Dawn appeared 30 or 40 degrees high which was dreadful enough for it is a common saying among Sea-men and true as I have experienced that a high dawn will have high winds and a low dawn small winds We continued our course still East before Wind and Sea till about 8 a clock in the morning of this 19th day and then one of our Malayan friends cryed out Pulo Way Mr. Hall and Ambrose and I thought the fellow had said Pull away an expression usual among English Sea-men when they are Rowing And we wonder'd what he meant by it till we saw him point to his consorts and then we looking that way saw Land appearing like an Island and all our Malayans said it was an Island at the N. W. end of Sumatra called Way for Pulo Way is the Island Way We who were dropping with wet cold and hungry were all overjoyed at the sight of the Land and presently marked its bearing It bore South and the Wind was still at West a strong gale but the Sea did not run so high as in the night Therefore we trimmed our small Sail no bigger than an Apron and steered with it Now our Outlagers did us a great kindness again for although we had but a small sail yet the Wind was strong and prest down our Vessels side very much but being supported by the Outlagers we could brook it well enough which otherwise we could not have done About noon we saw more Land beneath the supposed Pulo Way and steering towards it before night we saw all the Coast of Sumatra and found the errours of our Achinese for the high Land that we first saw which then appeared like an Island was not Pulo Way but a great high Mountain on the Island Sumatra called by the English the Golden Mountain Our Wind continued till about 7 a clock at night then it abated and at 10 a clock it died away and then we stuck to our Oars again though all of us quite tired with our former fatigues and hardships The next morning being the 20th day we saw all the low Land plain and judged our selves not above 8 leagues off About 8 a clock in the morning we had the Wind again at West a fresh gale and steering in still for the Shore at 5 a clock in the afternoon we run to the mouth of a River on the Island Sumatra called Passange Jonca It is 34 leagues to the Eastward of Achin and 6 leagues to the West of Diamond Point which makes with 3 Angles of a Rhombus and is low Land Our Malayans were very well acquainted here and carried us to a small fishing Village within a mile of the Rivers mouth called also by the name of the River Passange Jonca The hardships of this Voyage with the scorching heat of the Sun at our first setting out and the cold Rain and our continuing wet for the last two days cast us all into Fevers so that now we were not able to help each other nor so much as to get our Canoa up to the Village but our Malayans got some of the Townsmen to bring her up The news of our arrival being noised abroad one of the Oramkai's or Noblemen of the Island came in the night to see us We were then lying in a small Hut at the end of the Town and it being late this Lord only viewed us and having spoken with our Malayans went away again but he returned to us again the next day and provided a large house for us to live in till we should be recovered of our sickness ordering the Towns-people to let us want for nothing The Achinese Malayans that came with us told them all the circumstances of our Voyage how they were taken by our Ship and where and how we that came with them were Prisoners aboard the Ship and had been set ashore together at Nicobar as they were It was for this reason probably that the Gentlemen of Sumatra were thus extraordinary kind to us to provide every thing that we had need of nay they would force us to accept of Presents from them that we knew not what to do with as young Buffaloes Goats c. for these we would turn loose at night after the Gentlemen that gave them to us were gone for we were prompted by our Achinese Consorts to
So he gave over that design and some English Ships coming into Achin Road he was not afraid of the Siamers who lay there After this he again invited me to his House at Achin and treated me always with Wine and good Cheer and still importuned me to go with him to Persia but I being very weak and fearing the Westerly Winds would create a great deal of trouble did not give him a positive answer especially because I thought I might get a better Voyage in the English Ships newly arrived or some others now expected here It was this Captain Bowry who sent the Letter from Borneo directed to the Chief of the English Factory at Mindanao of which mention is made in Chapter the XIII A short time after this Captain Welden arrived here from Fort St. George in a Ship called the Curtana bound to Tonqueen This being a more agreeable Voyage than to Persia at this time of the year besides that the Ship was better accommodated especially with a Surgeon and I being still sick I therefore chose rather to serve Captain Welden than Captain Bowry But to go on with a particular account of that Expedition were to carry my Reader back again whom having brought thus far towards England in my Circum-Navigation of the Globe I shall not now weary him with new Rambles nor so much swell this Volume as I must to describe the Tour I made in those remote parts of the East Indies from and to Sumatra So that my Voyage to Tonqueen at this time as also another to Malacca afterwards with my Observations in them and the Descriptions of those and the Neighbouring Countries as well as the Description of the Island Sumatra it self and therein the Kingdom and City of Aehin Bencouli c. I shall refer to another place where I may give a particular relation of them In short it may suffice that I set out to Tonqueen with Captain Welden about July 1688 and returned to Achin in the April following I staid here till the latter end of September 1689. and making a short Voyage to Malacca came thither again about Christmas Soon after that I went to Fort St. George and staying there about 5 months I return'd once more to Sumatra not to Achin but Bencouli an English Factory on the West Coast of which I was Gunner about 5 months more So that having brought my Reader to Sumatra without carrying him back I shall bring him on next way from thence to England And of all that occurr'd between my first setting out from this Island in 1688 and my final departure from it at the beginning of the year 1691 I shall only take notice at present of two passages which I think I ought not to omit The first is that at my Return from Malacca a little before Christmas 1689 I found at Achin one Mr. Morgan who was one of our Ships Crew that left me ashore at Nicobar now Mate of a Danish Ship of Trangambar which is a Town on the Coast of Coromandel near Cape Comorin belonging to the Danes And receiving an account of our Crew from him and others I thought it might not be amiss to gratifie the Readers Curiosity therewith who would probably be desirous to know the success of those Ramblers in their new intended Expedition towards the Red Sea and withal I thought it might not be unlikely that these Papers may fall into the hands of some of our London Merchants who were concern'd in fitting out that Ship which I said formerly was called the Cygnet of London sent on a Trading Voyage into the South Seas under the Command of Captain Swan and that they might be willing to have a particular Information of the fate of their Ship And by the way even before this meeting with Mr. Morgan while I was at Tonqueen January 1689 I met with an English Ship in the River of Tonqueen called the Rainbow of London Captain Poole Commander by whose Mate Mr. Barlow who was returning in that Ship to England I sent a Pacquet which he undertook to deliver to the Merchants Owners of the Cygnet some of which he said he knew wherein I gave a particular account of all the Course and Transactions of their Ship from the time of my first meeting it in the South Seas and going aboard it there to its leaving me ashore at Nicobar But I never could hear that either that or other Letters which I sent at the same time were received To proceed therefore with Morgan's Relation He told me that when they in the Cygnet went away from Nicobar in pursuit of their intended Voyage to Persia they directed their course towards Ceylon But not being able to weather it the Westerly Monsoon bearing hard against them they were obliged to seek refreshment on the Coast of Coromandel Here this mad fickle crew were upon new projects again Their designs meeting with such delays and obstructions they many of them grew weary of it and about half of them went ashore Of this number Mr. Morgan who told me this and Mr. Herman Coppinger the Surgeon went to the Danes at Trangambar who kindly received them There they lived very well and Mr. Morgan was employed as a Mate in a Ship of theirs at this time to Achin and Captain Knox tells me that he since Commanded the Curtana the Ship that I went in to Tonqueen which Captain Welden having sold to the Mogul's Subjects they employed Mr. Morgan as Captain to trade in her for them and it is an usual thing for the trading Indians to hire Europeans to go Officers on board their Ships especially Captains and Gunners About two or three more of these that were set ashore went to Fort St. George but the main body of them were for going into the Mogul's Service Our Seamen are apt to have great notions of I know not what profit and advantages to be had in serving the Mogul nor do they want for fine storiesto encourage one another to it It was what these men had long been thinking and talking of as a fine thing but now they went upon it in good earnest The place where they went ashore was at a Town of the Moors which name our Seamen give to all the Subjects of the great Mogul but especially his Mahometan Subjects calling the Idolaters Gentous or Rashbouts At this Moors Town they got a Peun to be their Guide to the Mogul's nearest Camp for he hath always several Armies in his vast Empire These Peuns are some of the Gentous or Rashbouts who in all places along the Coast especially in Sea-port Towns make it their business to hire themselves to wait upon strangers be they Merchants Seamen or what they will To qualify them for such attendance they learn the European Languages English Dutch French Portuguese c. according as they have any of the Factories of these Nations in their Neighbourhood or are visited by their Ships No sooner doth any such Ship come to an Anchor and
not altogether destitute of small Hills and every where of a moderate heighth and a Champion Country naturally very fit for Cultivation There is one Hill more remarkable than ordinary especially to Seamen The English call it the Golden Mount but whether this name is given it by the Natives or only by the English I know not 'T is near the N. W. end of the Island and Achin stands but 5 or 6 mile from the bottom of it 'T is very large at the foot and runs up smaller towards the head which is raised so high as to be seen at Sea 30 or 40 leagues This was the first Land that we saw coming in our Proe from the Nicobar Islands mentioned in my former Voyage The rest of the Land tho of a good heighth was then undiscerned by us so that this Mountain appeared like an Island in the Sea which was the Reason why our Achin Malayans took it for Pulo Way But that Island tho pretty high Champion Land was invisible when this Golden Mount appeared so plain tho as far distant as that Island Besides what belongs to Achin upon the Continent there are also several Islands under its Jurisdiction most of them uninhabited and these make the Road of Achin Among them is this Pulo Way which is the Easternmost of a Range of Islands that lye off the N. W. end of Sumatra It is also the largest of them and it is inhabited by Malefactors who are banisht thither from Achin This with the other Islands of this Range lye in a semicircular form of about 7 Leagues diameter Pulo Gomez is another large Island about 20 mile West from Pulo Way and about 3 Leagues from the N. W. point of Sumatra Between Pulo Gomez and the Main are 3 or 4 other small Islands yet with Channels of a sufficient breadth between them for Ships to pass through and they have very deep water All Ships bound from Achin to the Westward or coming from thence to Achin go in and out thro one or other of these Channels and because shipping comes hither from the Coast of Surrat one of these Channels which is deeper than the rest is called the Surrat Channel Between Pulo Gomez and Pulo Way in the bending of the Circle there are other small Islands the chief of which is called Pulo Rondo This is a small round high Island not a above 2 or 3 mile in circumference It lyes almost in the extremity of the bending on the N. E. part of the Circle but nearer Pulo Way than Pulo Gomez There are large deep Channels on either side but the most frequented is the Channel on the West side Which is called the Bengal Channel because it looks towards that Bay and Ships coming from thence from the Coast of Coromandel pass in and out this way Between Pulo Way and the Main of Sumatra is another Channel of 3 or 4 Leagues wide which is the Channel for Ships that go from Achin to the Streights of Malacca or any Country to the East of those Streights and vice versa There is good riding in all this Semicircular Bay between the Islands and Sumatra but the Road for all Ships that come to Achin is near the Sumatra Shore within all the Islands There they anchor at what distances they please according to the Monsoons or Seasons of the Year There is a small Navigable River comes out into the Sea by which Ships transport their Commodities in smaller Vessels up to the City The mouth of this River is 6 or 7 Leagues from Pulo Rondo and 3 or 4 from Pulo Way and near as many from Pulo Gomez The Islands are pretty high Champion Land the mould black or yellow the Soyl deep and fat producing large tall Trees fit for any uses There are brooks of water on the 2 great Islands of Way and Gomez and several sorts of wild Animals especially wild Hogs in abundance The Mold of this Continent is different according to the natural position of it The Mountains are Rocky especially those towards the West Coast yet most that I have seen seems to have a superficial covering of Earth naturally producing Shrubs small Trees or pretty good Grass The small Hills are most of them cloathed with Woods the Trees whereof seem by their growth to spring from a fruitful Soyl the Champion Land such as I have seen is some black some grey some reddish and all of a deep mold But to be very particular in these things especially in all my Travels is more than Ican pretend to tho it may be I took as much notice of the difference of Soil as I met with it as most Travellers have done having been bred in my youth in Somersetshire at a place called East Coker near Yeovil or Evil In which Parish there is as great variety of Soil as I have ordinarily met with any where viz. black red yellow sandy stony clay morass or swampy c. I had the more reason to take notice of this because this Village in a great measure is Let out in small Leases for Lives of 20 30 40 or 50 pound per Ann. under Coll. Helliar the Lord of the Mannor and most if not all these Tenants had their own Land scattering in small pieces up and down several sorts of Land in the Parish so that every one had some piece of every sort of Land his Black ground his Sandy Clay c. some of 20 30 or 40 Shillings an Acre for some uses and other not worth 10 groats an Acre My Mother being possest of one of these Leases and having of all these sorts of Land I came acquainted with them all and knew what each sort would produce viz. Wheat Barley Massin Rice Beans Peas Oats Fetches Flax or Hemp in all which I had a more than usual knowledge for one so young taking a particular delight in observing it but enough of this matter The Kingdom of Achin has in general a deep mould It is very well watered with Brooks and small Rivers but none navigable for Ships of burthen This of Achin admits not of any but small Vessels The Land is some part very woody in other places Savannah the Trees are of divers sorts most unknown to me by name The Cotton and Cabbage-trees grow here but not in such plenty as in some part of America These Trees commonly grow here as indeed usually where-ever they grow in a champion dry ground such at least as is not drowned or morassy for here is some such Land as that by the Rivers and there grow Mangrove Trees and other Trees of that kind Neither is this Kingdom destitute of Timber-trees fit for building The Fruits of this Country are Plantains Bonanoes Guava's Oranges Limes Jacks Durians Coco-nuts Pumple noses Pomgranates Mangoes Mangastans Citrons Water melons Musk-melons Pine-apples c. Of all these sorts of Fruits I think the Mangastan is without compare the most delicate This Fruit is in shape much like the Pomgranate but a
Savannah with some large Palmeto-Trees growing in it The North side of the VVest end is full of Coco-Plum-Bushes and some Grapes The Coco-Plum-Bush is about 8 or 9 Foot high spreading out into many Branches It s Rind black and smooth the Leaves oval and pretty large and of a dark Green The Fruit is about the bigness of a Horse-Plum but round some are black some white others redish The Skin of the Plum is very thin and smooth the inside white soft and woolly rather fit to suck than bite inclosing in the middle a large soft Stone This Fruit grows commonly in tho Sand near the Sea and I have tasted some that have been saltish but they are commonly sweet and pleasant enough and accounted very wholsom The Body of the Grape-Tree is about two or three Foot in Circumference growing 7 or 8 Foot high then sends forth many Branches whose Twigs are thick and gross the Leaves are shaped much like an Ivy Leaf but broader and more hard the Fruit is as big as an ordinary Grape growing in Bunches or Clusters among the Twigs all over the Tree it is black when ripe and the inside redish with a large hard Stone in the middle This Fruit is very pleasant and wholsom but of little substance the Stones being so large The Body and Limbs of the Tree are good Fewel making a clear strong fire therefore often used by the Privateers to harden the Steels of their Guns when faulty The Animals of this Island are Lizards Guanoes Snakes and Dear Beside the Common small Lizard there is another sort of a large kind called a Lyon-Lizard This Creature is shaped much like the other but almost as big as a Man's Arm and it has a large Comb on its head when it is assaulted it sets its Comb up an end but otherways it lyes down flat Here are two or three sorts of Snakes some very large as I have been told At the West end of the Island close by the Sea you may dig in the Sand 5 or 6 Foot deep and find good fresh Water There are commonly VVells ready made by Seamen to water their Ships but they soon fill up if not cleared and if you dig too deep your VVater will be salt This Island was seldom clear of Inhabitants when the English visited the Bay for Logwood for the biggest Ships did always ride here in 6 or 7 Fathom Water close by the Shore but smaller Vessels ran up 3 Leagues farther to One-Bush-Key of which in my former Chapter The second Mouth or Entrance into this Lagune is between Trist and Beef-Island and is about 3 Mile wide It is shoal without and only two Channels to come in The deepest Channel on a Spring Tide has 12 Foot Water It lyes near the middle of the Mouth hard Sand on the Barr the West Channel is about 10 Foot Water and lies pretty near Beef-Island You run in with the Sea-Breez and sound all the way taking your Sounding from Beef-Island shore The bottom is soft Oaz and it shoots gradually Being shot in within Beef-Island Point you will have three fathom then you may stand over towards Trist till you come near the Shore and there Anchor as you please There is good Anchoring any where within the Bar between Trist and Beef-Island but the Tide is much stronger than at Port-Royal This is the other Mouth or opening to the Salt Lagune before-mentioned This Lagune is call'd by the Spaniards Laguna Termina or the Lagune of Tides because they run very strong here Small Vessels as Barks Periagoes or Canoas may sail thro' this Lagune from one Mouth to the other or into such Creeks Rivers or smaller Lagunes as empty themselves into this of which here are many The first of Note on the East part of this Lagune as you come in at Port-Royal is the River Summasenta This River though but small yet it is big enough for Pereagoes to enter It disembogues on the South side near the middle of the Lagune There was formerly an Indian Village named Summasenta near the Mouth of the River and another large Indian Town called Chucquebul 7 or 8 Leagues up in the Country This latter was once taken by the Privateers by whom I have been informed that there were about 2000 Families of Indians in it and two or three Churches and as many Spanish Friers though no white Men beside The Land near this River yields plenty of Logwood From Summasenta River to One-Bush-Key is 4 or 5 Leagues the shore running West I have described One-Bush-Key and the Creek against it which as I said is very narrow and not above a Mile long before it opens into another wide Lake lying nearest N. and S. called the East Lagune It is about a League and half wide and 3 Leagues long encompassed with Mangrove-Trees At the S. E. corner of it there is another Creek about a Mile wide at the Mouth running 6 or 7 Mile into the Country on both sides of it grows plenty of Logwood therefore it was inhabited by Englishmen who lived in small Companies from three to ten in a Company and settled themselves at their best Convenience for Cutting At the Head of the Creek they made a path leading into a large Savanah full of black Cattle Horses and Deer which was often visited by them upon occasion At the North end and about the middle of the East Lagune there is another small Creek like that which comes out against One-Bush-Key but less and shallower which dischargeth it self into Laguna Termina against a small sandy Key called by the English Serles's Key from one Captain Serles who first carried his Vessel here and was afterwards killed in the Western Lagune by one of his company as they were cutting Logwood together This Captain Serles was one of Sir Henry Morgans Commanders at the Sacking of Panama who being sent out to cruise in a small Vessel in the South Seas happened to surprize at Toboca the Boatswain and most of the Crew belonging to the Trinity a Spanish Ship on Board which were the Friers and Nuns with all the old Gentlemen and Matrons of the Town to the number of 1500 Souls besides an immense Treasure in Silver and Gold as I was informed by Captain Peralta who then Commanded her as he did afterwards when she was taken by Captain Sharp all which he might have taken in the Ship had he pursued her On the West side of the East Lagune there is a small Skirt of Mangroves that separates it from another running Parallel with it called the East Lagune which is about the bigness of the former Towards the North end of this Laguue runs a small Creek coming out of the East Lagune deep enough for small Barks to pass through At the South end of this Lagune there is a Creek about a Mile wide at its Mouth and half a Mile from thence it divides into two Branches one called the East the other the West Branch both deep
by their firing as they should have done was taken without any resistance Villa de Mose is a small Town standing on the Starbord side of the River four Leagues beyond this Breast-work 'T is inhabited chiefly by Indians with some Spaniards there is a Church in the middle and a Fort at the West end which commands the River Thus far Ships come to bring goods especially European Commodities viz. Broad-cloth Serges Perpetuana's Kersies Thred-Stockings Hats Ozenbrigs white and blew Ghentins Platilloes Britannias Hollandilloes Iron-work c. They arrive here in November or December and stay till June or July selling their Commodities and then load chiefly with Cacao and some Sylvester All the Merchants and petty Traders of the Country Towns come hither about Christmas to Traffick which makes this Town the chiefest in all these parts Campeachy excepted yet there are but few Rich Men that live here Sometimes Ships that come hither load Hides and Tallow if they cannot fraight with Cacao But the chiefest place for Hides is a Town lying on a Branch of this River that comes out a League below the Breast-work where Spanish Barks usually lade once a year but I can give no further account of it Four Leagues beyond Villa de Mose further up the River lies Estapo inhabited partly with Spaniards but most Indians as generally the Towns in this Country are it 's said to be pretty rich stands close by the River on the South side and is so built between two Creeks that there is but one Avenue leading to it and so well guarded with a Breast-work that Captain Hewet a Privateer who had under him near 200 Men was there repulsed losing many of them and himself wounded in the Leg. In his way thither he took Villa de Mose and left a Party there to secure his Retreat If he had taken Estapo he designed to pass on to Halpo a Rich Town three Leagues farther up the River and from thence to visit Tacatalpo lying 3 or 4 Leagues beyond which is accounted the wealthiest of the three the Spaniards call it Tacatalpo de Sierra whether to distinguish it from another Town of that name or to denote its nearness to the Mountains I know not 'T is the best Town on this River having three Churches and several Rich Merchants and between it and Villa de Mose are many large Cacao Walks on each side the River I have seen a sort of white Cacao brought from hence which I never met with any where else It is of the same bigness and colour on the outside and with such a thin husky Coat as the other but the inner substance is white like fine Flower and when the outward Coat is broken it crumbles as a lump of Flower doth Those that frequent the Bay call it Spuma and affirm that it is much used by the Spaniards of those parts to make their Chocolate froth who therefore set a great value on it But I never yet met with any in England that knew it except the Right Honourable the Earl of Carbery who was pleased to tell me he had seen of it The Land on the South side of the River is low Savannahs or Pasture The side where the Town of Villa de Mose stands is a sort of grey sandy Earth and the whole Country the Up-land I mean seems to be much the same But the Low-land is of a black deep Mould and in some places very strong Clay and there is not a Stone to be found in all the Country The healthy dry Land is very Woody except where inhabited or planted It is pretty thick settled with Indian Towns who have all a Padre or two among them and a Cacique or Governour to keep the Peace The Cacao Tree thrives here very well but the Nuts are smaller than the Caraccus Nuts yet Oyly and Fat whilst New They are not planted near the Sea as they are on the Coast of Caraccus but at least 8 or 10 Miles up in the Country The Cacao-walks belong chiefly to the Spaniards and are only planted and dress'd by Indians hired for that purpose yet the Indians have of their own Plantain-walks Plantations of Maiz and some small Cacao-walks about which they spend the chiefest of their time Some Employ themselves to search in the Woods for Bees that build in hollow Trees and get a good livelihood by their Honey and Wax These are of two sorts One pretty large the other no bigger but longer than an ordinary black Fly in other respects just like our common Bees only of a darker colour Their Stings are not strong enough to enter a Man's Skin but if disturbed they will fly at one as furiously as the great Bees and will tickle but cannot hurt you Their Honey is white and clear and they make a great deal of it The Indians keep of them tame and cut hollow Trunks for them to make their Combs in They place one end of the Log which is saw'd very even on a Board leaving a hole for the Bees to creep in at and the upper end is covered with a Board put close over it The young and lusty Indians such as want Employment hire themselves to the Spaniards They Work cheap and are commonly paid in such Goods as the Spaniards do not value And I have been told that they are obliged to Work for their Masters one day in a Week gratis But whether this Priviledge belongs only to the Padres or to the Laity also I know not The Indians inhabiting these Villages live like Gentlemen in Comparison of those that are near any great Town such as Campeachy or Merida for there even the Poorer and Rascally sort of People that are not able to hire one of these poor Creatures will by violence drag them to do their Drudgery for nothing after they have work'd all day for their Masters nay they often take them out of the Market from their Business or at least enjoyn them to come to their Houses when their Market is ended and they dare not refuse to do it This Country is very fruitful yielding plentiful Crops of Maiz which is their chiefest Subsistence After it is boil'd they bruise it on such a Rubbing-stone as Chocolate is grownd on Some of it they make into small thin Cakes called Tartilloes The rest they put into a Jar till it grows sowr and when they are thirsty mix a handful of it in a Callabash of Water which gives it a sharp pleasant taste then streining it through a large Callabash prick'd full of small Holes to keep out the Husks they drink it off If they treat a Friend with this Drink they mix a little Honey with it for their Ability reaches no higher And this is as acceptable to them as a Glass of Wine to us If they travel for two or three Days from Home they carry some of this Grown'd Maiz in a Plantain Leaf and a Callabash at their Girdles to make their drink and take no farther
of Cattle belonging to an Indian Village In the Woods on each side this River there are plenty of Guanoes Land-Turtle and abundance of Quams and Corresos with some Parrots and there is no Settlement nearer than the Beef Estantion nor any thing else remarkable in this River that I know A League West from Checapeque there is another small River called Dos Boccas 't is only fit for Canoas to enter It has a Bar at its Mouth and therefore is somewhat dangerous Yet the Privateers make light of it for they will govern a Canoa very ingeniously However Captain Rives and Captain Hewet two Privateers lost several Men here in coming out for there had been a North which had raised the Bar and in going out most of their Canoas were over-set and some Men drowned This River wlll not float a Canoa above a League within its Mouth and so far is salt but there you meet with a fine clear Stream of fresh Water about a League up in the Country and beyond this are fair Savannahs of long Grass fenced in with Ridges of as rich Land as any in the World The Mold such as is formerly described all plain and level even to the Hills of Chiapo There are no Indian Towns within 4 or 5 Leagues of the Sea but further off they are pretty thick lying within a League 2 or 3 one of another Halpo is the chiefest The Indians make use of no more Land than serves to maintain their Families in Maiz and to pay their Taxes And therefore between the Towns it lies uncultivated In all this Country they rear abundance of Poultry Viz. Turkies Ducks and Dunghil Fowls but some of them have Cacao-Walks The Cacao of these Parts is most of it sent to Villa de Mose and ship'd off there Some of it is sold to Carriers that travail with Mules coming hither commonly in Nov. or Dec. and staying till Febr. or March They lye a Fortnight at a time in a Village to dispose of their Goods which are commonly Hatchets Macheats Axes Hoes Knives Cizars Needles Thread Silk for sowing Womens Frocks small Looking-glasses Beads Silver or Copper Rings wash'd with Gold set with Glass instead of Stones small Pictures of Saints and such like Toys for the Indians And for the Spaniards Linnen and Woollen Cloaths Silks Stockings and old Hats new dress'd which are here very valuable and worn by those of the best Quality so that an old English Beaver thus ordered would be worth 20 Dollars so much is Trade wanted here in this Country When he has sold off his Goods he is generally paid in Cacao which he carries to La Vera Cruz. From Dos Boccas to the River Palmas is 4 Leagues low Land and sandy Bay between From Palmas to the Halover is 2 Leagues The Halover is a small Neck of Land parting the Sea from a large Lagune It is so call'd by the Privateers because they use to drag their Canoas in and out there From the Halover to St. Anns is 6 Leagues St. Anns is a Mouth that opens the Lagune before mentioned there is not above 6 or 7 Foot Water yet Barks often go in there to Careen From St. Anns to Tondelo is 5 Leagues The Coast still West the Land low and sandy Bay against the Sea a little within which are pretty high Sand-Banks cloathed with prickly Bushes such as I have already described at Beef-Island Against the Sea near the West end within the Sand Bank the Land is lower again the Woods not very high and some spots of Savannahs with plenty of fat Bullocks In Hunting of which a Frenchman unhappily lost his Life For his Company being stragled from him to find Game he unluckily met a Drove of Cattle flying from them in the Woods which were so thick that there was no passing but in these very narrow Paths that the Cattle themselves had made so that not being able to get out of their way the foremost of the Drove thrust his Horns into his Back and carried him a 100 Paces into the Savannah where he fell down with his Guts trailing on the Ground The River Tondeloe is but narrow yet capable to receive Barks of 50 or 60 Tuns there is a Bar at the Entrance and the Channel crooked On the West side of the Bar there is a spit of Sand shoots out therefore to avoid it at your coming in you must keep the East side aboard but when once entred you may run up for two or three Leagues on the East side a quarter of a Mile within the Mouth you may lie secure but all this Coast and especially this River intolerably swarms with Musketoes that there is no sleeping for them About 4 or 5 Leagues from the Mouth this River is fordable and there the Road crosses it where two French Canoas that lay in this River intercepted the Caravan of Mules laden with Cacao that was returning to La Vera Cruz taking away as much as they could carry with them From Tondeloe River to the River of Guasickwalp is 8 Leagues more the Coast still West all along sandy Bay and sand-Hills as between St. Anns and Tondeloe only towards the West part the Bank is lower and the Trees higher This is one of the Principal Rivers of this Coast 't is not half the breadth of the Tobasco River but deeper It s Bar is less dangerous than any on this Coast having 14 foot Water on it and but little Sea Within the Bar there is much more and soft Oasie ground The Banks on both sides are low The East side is woody and the West side Savannah Here are some Cattle but since it has been frequented by Privateers the Spaniards have driven most of their Bullocks from hence farther into the Country This River hath its rise near the South Sea and is Navigable a great way into Land especially with Boats or small Barks The River Teguantapeque that falls into the South Seas hath its Origine near the Head of Guasickwalp and it is reported that the first Naval Stores for the Manila Ships were sent through the Country from the North to the South Seas by the conveniency of these two Rivers whose Heads are not above 10 or 12 Leagues asunder I heard this discoursed by the Privateers long before I visited the South Seas and they seemed sometimes minded to try their Fortunes this way supposing as many do still that the South Sea shore is nothing but Gold and Silver But how grosly they are mistaken I have satisfied the World already And for this part of the Country though it is rich in Land yet it has not the least appearance of any Mine neither is it thick inhabited with Spaniards And if I am not deceived the very Indians in the heart of the Country are scarce their Friends The Town of note on the S. Sea is Teguantapeque and on the N. Seas Keyhooca is the chiefest near this River Besides these two the Country is only inhabited by Indians
them there no other way than by Wet and Dry and these wet and dry Seasons do as successively follow each other as Winter and Summer do with us Here are also strong Currents sometimes setting one way sometimes another which though it is hard to describe with that Accuracy which is desirable yet I shall give as particular an Account of them as also of the several sorts of Winds as my own Observations and the Judicious Informations from others will afford me Matter to do Of the General Trade-Wind A View of the General Coasting TRADE-Winds in the great SOUTH OCEAN These general Trade-Winds are only in the Atlantick Ocean which parts Africa from America in the East Indian Ocean and in the Great South-Sea In all these Seas except just under or near the Line they constantly blow without Intermission as well to the South as to the North of the Equator but not with equal force at all Times nor in all Latitudes Neither do these constant Trade-Winds usually blow near the shoar but only in the Ocean at least 30 or 40 Leagues off at Sea clear from any Land especially on the West Coast or side of any Continent For indeed on the East side the Easterly Wind being the true Trade-Wind blows almost home to the shore so near as to receive a check from the Land-Wind and oft-times to admit of the Sea-Breez by which it is drawn from its Course frequently 4 or 5 Points of the Compass But of the Sea-Breez I shall speak in its place In some Places and particularly the South Seas in South Lat. the true Eastern Trade is not found to blow within 150 or near 200 Leagues of the Coast but in North Lat. in those Seas it comes within 30 or 40 Leagues distance of the Shore And this I shall give as a general Rule That in North Lat. these Winds are commonly at E. N. E. in South Lat. at E. S. E. When we go from England and are bound to the East or West Indies or to Guinea we commonly find these Winds in the Lat. of 30 d. sometimes sooner as in the Latitudes of 32 or 35. And it may so happen that we may meet with an Easterly Wind in 40 d. or go out of our own Channel with a North East Wind which sometimes also fails us not till we come into a true Trade-Wind but this is only accidental therefore is not the Wind that I speak of but between 32 and 28 I did never know nor hear that the true Trade-Wind failed If in coming from England we have a North Easterly Wind that brings us hither i. e. into the true Trade-Wind it sometimes stays at North East especially if we keep near the African Shore as Guinea Ships do till we are near the Tropick of Cancer and then comes to the E. N. E. where it settles but commonly it settles there in 28 d. if we are so far off Shore as to receive the true Trade When the Wind is thus settled we have commonly fair Weather and a clear Sky especially if the Sun is in any Southern Sign but if in a Northern Sign the Weather is usually cloudy On the contrary when we are in South Lat. in the Atlantick if the Sun is in Northern Signs the Sky is clear but if in Southern Signs the Sky is cloudy This I once experienced to my sorrow in my return from Bantam in the Year 1671. We had cloudy Weather and brisk Winds while we were crossing the East Indian Ocean and had a very good Passage also about the Cape of good Hope where we had fair clear Weather And steering from thence for the Island St. Hellena where we thought to Water and Refresh as all our English East India Ships do we mist it for want of an Observation For before we came to the Tropick of Capricorn the Sky was again clouded so that we seldom saw the Sun or Stars till we were quite past the Island However we found the Isle of Ascention where we struck two Turtle for this was not the laying time but the beginning of the Cooting or Ingendring Season therefore some few only were drawn hither This was the latter end of November From the time that we thought our selves to the West of St. Hellena we had our VVater measured out to us 2 Pints a Man per day till we came into our Channel This was the first time that I began to know the value of fresh VVater for we took in none in all our way home from Bantam But so much for this Digression The VVinds as I said before as we run to the Southward from England do first settle in the E. N. E. about the Lat. of 28 d. or be sure between that and 24 d. especially when the Sun is to the Southward of the Line but in May June and July you will find the VVinds at E. by S. or E. S. E. These VVinds whether we meet them to the North of the East or to the South of it we find blowing a moderate Gale from our first meeting them in 30 or 28 d. till we come to the Tropick there we find the Trade stronger It commonly blows a good Topsail-gale as we sail large And if we were to sail on a VVind our lower Sails would be enough These brisk Gales blow in the Atlantick Ocean and North of the Equator from the Lat. of 23 to 12 or 14 constantly between the E. N. E. and the E. But between 10 or 12 degrees and the Line they are not so fresh nor constant to that Point for in the Months of July and August the South VVinds do oft times blow even to 11 d. or 12 d. of North Lat. keeping between the S. S. E. and the S. S. VV. or S. VV. but in December and January the true Trade blows within 3 d. or 4 d. of the Equator And as the Sun returns again to the Northward so the Southerly VVinds do increase and draw more to the Northward of the Line till July and then gradually withdraw back again towards the Line VVhen the Sun is in Southern Signs 't is the best time of the Year to cross the Line if bound to the Southward for besides the benefit of the true Trade to bring a Ship near the Line the VVind is then more constant and fresh the VVeather clearer and the VVinds which at other times are between the S. S. E. and S. S. VV. are now at S. E. or S. E. and by E. but in our Summer Months we find nothing but Calms and Tornadoes and tho' Tornadoes do usually rise against the settled VVind yet but few Commanders will endeavour to take the Advantage of the VVinds that come from them but rather furl their Topsails hall up their Corses and lye still till the gust of Wind is past except necessity requires haste for these sudden Tornadoes do not continue long and besides often very violent and fierce so that a Ship with her sails loose would be
my Course for Jamaica and found the N. E. Corner to lye in Lat. 18 d. North and in Longi West from Tobago 13 d. The Meridian distance from Tobago is 749 Miles VVest In our passage we saw no Land or Island till we made the N. E. end of Jamaica which lyeth in Longi VVest from the Meridian of Lundy 64 d. 10 m. and VVest from the City of Loango 82 d. 18 m. I shall only add that I am of Opinion that the Gallopagos Islands do lye a great deal further to the VVestward than our Hydrographers do place them according as Mr. Dampier hints p. 100 of his Voyage round the World I am Portbury Octob. 20. 1698. SIR Your most humble Servant John Covant Part of a second Letter from Captain Covant dated from Bristol Decemb. 10. 1697. LETTER II. SIR YOurs of the 6th Instant came to my Hands with the enclosed Queries which I shall endeavour to answer in part as far as my memory will assist me being now from home and at a distance from my Journals c. 1. The Common Trade-Winds on the Coast of Angola blow from the S. VV. to South till about 12 d. Long. from the Meridian of the Isle of Lundy 2. I have found them always in the same Quarter and not subject to shift in all the time I have used this Coast except that at a small distance off the shore they are sometimes a Point more to the VVestward 3. The Dry Season on this Coast I observed to be from the latter end of April to September tho' sometimes intermix'd with some pleasant showers of Rain I cannot be so punctual as to the time of the Wet Seasons 4. The true Sea-Breez I have commonly found here to be from W. S. W. to VV. by S. if it be fair Weather and the Land Breez is at E. by N. But if a Tornado happens it causes the Winds to shift all round the Compass and at last it settles at S. VV. which is the former true Trade Wind. I am yours John Covant CHAP. VI. Of Storms Storms less frequent but more fierce between the Tropicks Presages of their coming Of Norths the Times and Places where they blow Signs of their approach N. Banks A Chocolatta North. A North beneficial to Ships going from Campeachy to Jamaica A very uncommon way of wearing a Ship in a North. Of Souths the Times and Places where they Blow A Description of a South at Jamaica and at the Bay of Campeachy Much Fish kill'd by that Storm Of Hurricanes A Description of a terrible one at Antegoe where abundance of Fish and Sea Fowles were destroyed by it The difference between North Banks and the Clouds before an Hurricane the latter adorned with radiant Colours Tuffoons in the East-Indies the same with Hurricanes in the West Of Monsoons in the East-Indies A Storm called by the Portuguese the Elephanta which is the violentest Monsoon of that Season STorms within the Tropicks are generally known to us by some Name or other to distinguish them from other common Winds and though Storms are not so frequent there as they are in Latitudes nearer the Poles yet are they nevertheless expected yearly in their proper Months and when they do come they blow exceeding fierce though indeed some years they do not come at all or at least do not blow with that fierceness as at other times And as these Winds are commonly very fierce so are they but of a short continuance in comparison with Storms that we meet with in higher Latitudes In the West Indies there are three sorts viz. Norths Souths and Hurricanes In the East-Indies there are only two sorts viz. Monsoones and Tuffoones All these sorts of violent Storms except the Norths are expected near one time of the year and this is taken notice of by those that have been in any of them that they give certain Presages of their being at hand several hours before they come Norths are violent Winds that frequently blow in the Bay of Mexico from October till March They are chiefly expected near the full or change of the Moon all that time of the year but they are most violent in December and January These Winds are not confined to the Bay of Mexico only but there they are most frequent and rage with the greatest Violence They blow on the North side of Cuba very fierce too and in the Gulph of Florida as also about Hispaniola Jamaica c. and in the Channel between Jamaica and Portabel and in all the West Indian Sea between the Islands and the Main as high as the Island Trinidado But from Jamaica Eastward except on the North side of the Island Hispaniola they blow no harder than a pretty brisk Sea Wind. They are here at W. N. W. or N. W. though in the Bay of Mexico they blow strongest at N. N. W. and this is the Season of Westerly Winds in these East parts of the West-Indies as I have before noted in the third Chapter of this Discourse I shall be most particular of them that blow in the Bay of Mexico and what Signs they give us before hand Commonly before a North the Weather is vety serene and fair the Sky clear and but little Wind and that too veering from its proper Point or the common Trade Wind of the Coast and breathing gently at S. at S. W. and West a Day or two before the North comes The Sea also gives notice of a Storm by an extraordinary and long Ebb. For a Day or two before a North there will be hardly any discernable Flood but a constant ebbing of the Sea And the Sea Fowls also before a Storm do commonly hover over the Land which they do not at other times use to do in such great flights and numbers All these Signs concurring may give any Man notice of an approaching Storm but the greatest and most remarkable Sign of a North is a very black Cloud in the N. W. rising above the Horizon to about 10 or 12 degrees the upper edge of the Cloud appears very even and smooth and when once the upper part of the Cloud is 6 8 10 or 12 degrees high there it remains in that even form parallel to the Horizon without any motion and this sometimes 2 or 3 Days before the Storm comes At other times not above 12 or 14 hours but never less This Cloud lying so near the Horizon is not seen but in the Mornings or Evenings at least it does not appear so black as then this is called by English Seamen a North Bank and when ever we see such a Cloud in that part of the World and in the Months before mentioned we certainly provide for a Storm and though sometimes it may happen that such a Cloud may appear several Mornings and Evenings and we may not feel the effects of it or but very little yet we always provide against it for a North never comes without such a foreboding Cloud But if the VVinds
of the Trade Winds I shall instance Barbadoes for one and all the Carribbes may as well be included The greater Islands as Hispaniola Jamaica and Cuba have only some particular Capes or Head-Lands exposed to Currents as Cape Tiberoon on Hispaniola Point Pedro and the N. E. Point of Jamaica Cape de Cruz Cape Corientes and Cape Antonios on Cuba But of all the Islands in the West Indies there are none more sensible of Currents than Corrisao Aruba nor any Capes on the Continent so remarkable for Currents as Cape Roman which shoots out against the Sea betweenthose two Places as also Cape Coquibaco and Cape La Vela to Leeward all three on the same Head-Land which shoots forth far without any other Land on the Coast. There is no such Head-Land till you come to Cape Gratia de Dios which is about 260 Leagues to Leeward Indeed to the East-ward there is Land that trends out almost so far within 150 Leagues of it Viz. The Island Trinidado and the Land against it and there also are great Currents But I shall first speak of the Currents between Cape La Vela and Cape Gratia de Dios. The Currents at Cape La Vela do seldom shift therefore Ships that ply to Wind-ward to get about it do not ply near the shore but stand off to Sea till they come in sight of Hispaniola and then back again till within about 6 or 8 Leagues of the Cape but not nearer But in the Westerly Wind-Season which is from October till March Ships often meet Westerly Winds that last two or three Days with which they may run to the Eastward without any trouble Between Cape La Vela and Cape Gratia de Dios the Currents are much different from what they are against the Cape and this seems to proceed from the make of the Land for the shore between the two Capes runs into the Southward making a great Bay And this Bay affords more varieties of Winds and Currents than any one part of the West Indies besides Here in the Westerly Wind-Season the Current sets to the Westwards constantly but sometimes stronger than at other times At about four Leagues off shore you find it and so it continues till you are 20 25 or 30 Leagues off Beyond that you meet with an Easterly Wind and if there is any Current it runs also to the Westward therefore Ships that are bound to the Westward must run off to Sea Thirty or Forty Leagues to get a Wind or else if they have but a little way to go they must ply close under the shore that so they may Anchor when they please Otherwise they will be carried away to the Eastward Fourteen or Sixteen Leagues in a Nights time and that too though they have a faint Easterly Wind as frequently they meet with though 't is the Westerly Wind-Season To the East of Cape Roman as high as the Island Trinidado you meet only a soaking faint Current setting to the Westward except only near such places as shoot out farthest into the Sea as about the Testegos which are small Islands lying to Wind-ward of the Island Margarita Between those Islands and the Main you meet with a pretty strong Current therefore it is hard getting to the East-ward there but on all the Coast between Cape Roman and the Head-Land shooting out towards the Testegos you may ply up with the Land and Sea-Breezes From thence till you come as high as the East-end of Trinidado Isle you meet with an extraordinary strong Current From the east-East-end of Trinidado till you come to Surinam though you meet an Easterly Current yet 't is possible to beat it up with the Land and Sea-Breezes From Surianam also to Cape Blanco you may turn it up though to be sure you 'l meet with Currents setting to the West except near the Full of the Moon and then on all the Coasts before-mentioned we commonly meet with Currents setting to the Eastward at least then it slackens and stands still if it doth not run to the East-ward But when you are come as far to the East as Cape Blanco on the North of Brazil you meet with a Current always against you and so from thence Southerly as far as Cape St. Augustine There is no dealing with this Promontory for it shoots out so far into the Sea and thereby lies so exposed to the Sea-Breezes and the Currents that soak down between Africa and Brazil that it is quite contrary to reason to think there should not always be a strong Current setting to the N. W. I have before hinted That in all places where the Trade blows we find a Current setting with the Wind which is not so perceptible in the wide Sea as nearer the Shores yet even there the force of the Winds constantly blowing one way may and probably does move the surface of the Water along with it From hence it may be inferred that the Southerly Winds on the Coast of Africa and the true Trade between it and Brazil gently move the surface of the Sea with it and the Trade being mostly at S. E. drives the Sea to the Northward slanting in on the Coast of Brazil which being there stop'd by the Land bends its Course Northerly towards Cape St. Augustine And after it has doubled that great Promontory it falls away more gently towards the Coast of Suranam and from thence towards the West Indies For after it has doubled that Promontory it has more room to spread it self and thereby becomes weaker in motion being agitated by the Trade-winds which to the North of the Line we find commonly blowing at E. N. E. and this still bears the Sea slanting down along the Coast to the Westward And probably 't is for this Reason that we find the Current setting strongest near those Head-Lands before-mentioned Whereas at Barbadoes and other of the Caribee Islands we find only a soaking Current such as seems to arise only from the constancy of the Trade-winds blowing there and not from an original Current from the South part of the Atlantick which as I said before doubles about Cape St. Augustine and so Coasts along pretty nigh the shore The Currents about the Island Trinidado and at Currisao and Aruba as also between them and Cape Roman seem to indicate as much The Currents also between Cape Roman and Cape La Vela indicate the same From Cape La Vela the Currents set still to the Westward towards Cape Gratia de Dios but in a direct Line and not borrowing or slanting in towards the shore For as I said before it is a large Bay and Currents commonly set from one Head-Land to another so that Bays have seldom any or if they have they are only Counter Currents And these Counter Currents too do set from one Point to another without interfering with the little Bays between And 't is also very probable that these Counter Currents such as we meet with in this Bay in their Seasons after they have
us at last the Captain ordered the Drum to be beaten which was done of a sudden with much vigor purposely to scare the poor Creatures They hearing the noise ran away as fast as they could drive and when they ran away in haste they would cry Gurry Gurry speaking deep in the Throat Those Inhabitants also that live on the Main would always run away from us yet we took several of them For as I have already observed they had such bad Eyes that they could not see us till we came close to them We did always give them victuals and let them go again but the Islanders after our first time of being among them did not stir for us When we had been here about a week we hal'd our Ship into a small sandy Cove at a Spring-tide as far as she would sloat and at low Water she was left dry and the sand dry without us near half a mile for the Sea riseth and falleth here about 5 fathom The Flood runs North by East and the Ebb South by West All the Neep-tides we lay wholly a ground for the Sea did not come near us by about a hundred yards We had therefore time enough to clean our Ships bottom which we did very well Most of our Men lay ashore in a Tent where our Sails were mending and our Strikers brought home Turtle and Manatee every day which was our constant food While we lay here I did endeavour to perswade our men to go to some English Factory but was threatened to be turned ashore and left here for it This made me desist and patiently wait for some more convenient place and opportunity to leave them than here Which I did hope I should accomplish in a short time because they did intend when they went from hence to bear down towards Cape Comorin In their way thither they design'd also to visit the Island Cocos which lyeth in Lat. 12 d. 12 m. North by our Drafts hoping there to find of that Fruit the Island having it name from thence CHAP. XVII Leaving New-Holland they pass by the Island Cocos and touch at another Woody Island near it A Land Animal like large Craw-fish Coco-Nuts floating in the Sea The Island Triste bearing Coco's yet over-flown every Spring-tide They anchor at a small Island near that of Nassaw Hog Island and others A Proe taken belonging to Achin Nicobar Island and the rest called by that Name Ambergrease good and bad The manners of the Inhabitants of these Islands They anchor at Nicobar Isle It s Situation Soil and pleasant Mixture of its Bays Trees c. The Melory tree and Fruit used for bread The Natives of Nicobar Island their Form Habit Language Habitations no form of Religion or Government Their Food and Canoas They clean the Ship The Author projects and gets leave to stay ashore here and with him two Englishmen more the Portuguese and 4 Malayans of Achin Their first Rencounters with the Natives Of the common Traditions concerning Cannibals or Man-Eaters Their Entertainment ashore They buy a Canoa to transport them over to Achin but overset her at first going cut Having recruited and improved her they set out again for the East side of the Island They have a War with the Islanders but Peace being re-established they lay in stores and make Preparations for their Voyage MArch the 12th 1688. we sailed from New Holland with the Wind at N. N. W. and fair weather We directed our course to the Northward intending as I said to touch at the Island Cocos but we met with the Winds at N. W. W. N. W. and N N. W. for several days which obliged us to keep a more Easterly course than was convenient to find that Island We had soon after our setting out very bad weather with much Thunder and Lightning Rain and high blustring Winds It was the 26th day of March before we were in the lat of the Island Cocos which is in 12 d. 12 m. and then by judgment we were 40 or 50 leagues to the East of it and the Wind was now at S. W. Therefore we did rather chuse to bear away towards some Islands on the West side of Sumatra than to beat against the Wind for the Island Cocos I was very glad of this being in hopes to make my escape from them to Sumatra or some other place We met nothing of remark in this Voyage beside the catching two great Sharks till the 28th day Then we fell in with a small woody Island in Lat. 10 d. 30 m. Its Longitude from New Holland from whence we came was by my account 12 d. 6 m. West It was deep water about the Island and therefore no anchoring but we sent 2 Canoas ashore one of them with the Carpenters to cut a Tree to make another Pump the other Canoa went to search for fresh water and found a fine small Brook near the S. W. point of the Island but there the Sea fell in on the ashore so high that they could not get it off At noon both our Canoas returned aboard and the Carpenters brought aboard a good Tree which they afterwards made a Pump with such a one as they made at Mindanao The other Canoa brought aboard as many Boobies and Men of War Birds as sufficed all the Ships Company when they were boiled They got also a sort of Land Animal somewhat resembling a large Craw-fish without its great Claws These creatures lived in holes in the dry sandy ground like Rabbits Sir Francis Drake in his Voyage round the world makes mention of such that he found at Ternate or some other of the Spice Islands or near them They were very good sweet Meat and so large that 2 of them were more than a Man could eat being almost as thick as ones Leg. Their Shells were of a dark brown but red when boiled This Island is of a good heighth with steep Cliffs against the S. and S. W. and a sandy Bay on the North side but very deep water steep to the shore The Mold is blackish the Soil fat producing large Trees of divers sorts About one a clock in the Afternoon we made sail from this Island with the wind at S. W. and we steered N. W. Afterwards the winds came about at N. W. and continued between the W. N. W. and the N. N. W. several days I observed that the winds blew for the most part out of the West or N. W. and then we had always rainy weather with Tornadoes and much Thunder and Lightning but when the wind came any way to the Southward it blew but faint and brought fair weather We met nothing of remark till the 7th day of April and then being in Lat. 7 d. S. we saw thâ—… Land of Sumatra at a great distance bearing North. The 8th day we saw the East end of the Island Sumatra very plainly we being then in Lat. 6 d. S. The 10th day being in Lat. 5 d. 11 m. and about 7