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A65620 A journey into Greece by George Wheler, Esq., in company of Dr. Spon of Lyons in six books ... : with variety of sculptures. Wheler, George, Sir, 1650-1723.; Spon, Jacob, 1647-1685. 1682 (1682) Wing W1607; ESTC R9388 386,054 401

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that particular and Authors disagreeing For my Companion setteth it down about Sixty Miles Peitro della Valle Ninety and our Country-man Mr. Sands precisely Sixscore and five Miles It looketh very high and Mountainous from Sea and sends down most prodigious gusts of wind LESBOS as I experienced returning from Smyrna Of Lesbos likewise he hath given a good description for it is much bigger then Scio and hath plenty of Corn Wine and Cattle Of the milk of which they make much Butter and Cheese but have little Trade Each of these Islands pay Eighteen Thousand pieces of Eight a year Carraeth to the Grand Signior Those that gather it at Scio make the heirs three years after the death of their Friends pay it They say also when a Greek changeth his habitation they make him pay a double Pole-Money one in the Country he left and another in that where he cometh to live unless they avoid it by some Artifice as by concealing their native place and true Name Naxia payeth Six Thousand Dollers Milo Three Thousand Paros and Ause as much Scyros Two Thousand Zea Seventeen Hundred for Carraeth and for Tenths Two Thousand Five Hundred Andros Four Thousand Five Hundred Carraeth and Six Thousand Eight Hundred for Tenths Negropont which is the greatest Island in the Archipelago payeth a Hundred Thousand Dollers for all its priviledges The tenths are paid to the Beyes and Vayvodes who are obliged out of them to keep a certain number of Gallies without any expence to the Grand Signior Smyrna maintains two Gallies Naxia Meteline Samos and Andros each of them one Scio two Micone and Seripho one and so the rest in proportion to their Abilities But to return to our Vessel at Tenedos This Island is about four or five Miles from the shore of Asia about Twenty Miles in Circuit and Truitful in Corn and Wine especially Muskatels great part of which is carried to Constantinople It hath a Town and a Castle which lieth on the North-end of it but regarding the Promontory Sigaeum towards the East now called Janizzari by the Turks it was taken by the Venetians in the War of Candia and retaken by the Turks by means of a good round Sum of Money given to the Treacherous Governour Near this place was a famous Sea-fight fought betwixt the Venetians and Turks with great loss on both sides though the Victory remained to the Venetians From our Ship at the south-South-end of Tenedos we discovered the top of that famous Mountain Ida TROY and in the same line upon the Asian shore vast Ruins of a City which we took to be the so much celebrated Troy and therefore we longed very much to see it nor had we therein our desires frustrated For Friday the Twentieth of August the wind holding still contrary or calm both Wood and Water was wanting to our Vessel and therefore the long Boat being sent ashore for recruits we closed with that opportunity of seeing the Valiant Trojans Country We landed in a plain about three Miles North of those Ruins which we saw from our Ship where digging in the sand I suppose the hidden Chanel of some rivolet the Sea men found fresh water This plain is in some places tilled and in some places neglected It beareth Corn Cotton and Sesami of which they make Oyl Cucumbers and Melons of several kinds as Water-Melons which the Italians call Anguria and another kind which they here call Zucchi I saw also in many places neglected Fig-trees and Almond-trees with Fruit upon them Here groweth also abundance of Oaks whereof I never saw any of the kind in England It agreeth something with the description Gerard giveth of the Cerris Majore Glande or the Holme-Oak with great Acorns but not well with his Figure It groweth to a large well proportion'd Tree with a fair top and large branches but whether it is good Timber or no I know not It s small twigs bear a fair leaf above as long again as broad broad at the bottom and ending in a sharp point snipped about the edges with deep sharp-pointed teeth like a great saw and of an Ashcolour somewhat downy It beareth an Acorn twice as big as our ordinary Oaks which cometh out of a deep cup that covereth half the length of it It is rough on the outside with a long flat and heavy substance which before the Acorn appeareth is like to those great excrescences that sometimes are seen in the spring upon our young sappy Oaks In this walk I saw other curious Plants as 1. Tragacantha PLANTS out of which Gumme Dragon issueth in some places 2. Pastinaca Echinifera Fabij Columni 3. Jacea Lutea Capite Spinoso 4. Tartonreina Massiliensium of two kinds Longifolio Latifolio 5. Papaver Caniculatum horned Poppies whose Flower is black at the bottom fomewhat higher of a deep red and by degrees end in a Golden Colour 6. Pancrasium in Flower 7. Verbascum Marinum laciniatis Folijs So that I cannot with Mr. Sands call this barren ground but neglected ' With these curiosities I entertained my self whilst the rest of our Company diverted themselves with the game they found in great plenty there as Hares red Partridges Quails Turtles and a Bird about the bigness of a Thrush the head and breast of a bright yellowish colour the back and wings of a greenish grey like a green Finch the beak and head formed like a Thrush and as fat as Hortulans in France and Italie and our Wheat-ears in England Another kind not much bigger but shaped like a Bittern with a long bill long legs and claws a crist of long Feathers on the Crown and of a speckled colour like an Hawke When we came near to this ruined City we saw abundance of broken Pillars of Marble and others parts of Walls and Fundations along the shore none standing upright nor whole but lying on the ground and many a good way in the Sea scaled by the weather and eaten by the Salt-winds that come from thence A little further is the mole of a Port yet remaining with a large and thick wall on the shore which doubtless was beautified with those many Marble Pillars that are now broken down all along under it The mouth is now stopped up with sand and remaineth very shallow I cannot with my Companion say That this was the Port of Troy so famous in Antiquity nor yet this City that Ilium or Troy whose Wars have been so Celebrated by the Unimitable Homer and Virgil nor the Antiquities there remaining to be of any elder date then the Romans although Bellonius is confident of it and Petro della Valle so wonderfully pleased himself with the thoughts of it that he fancied every great Tree a Hector or Achilles or an Aeneas and all the Briers and Bushes that pricked his shins their Armies and could not forbear crying out Hic Dolopum manus hic saevus tendebat Achilles Classibus hic locus hic acies certare solebant But
they are forced to dig them out with piked Irons and this they call Stirring When they barrel them up to send into these Parts a man getteth into the Fat with bare legs and feet and as they are brought and powred in he still keeps a stamping and treading of them down to make them lye close together They are worth here about Twelve Dollers the Thousand or little more or less and pay as much to the State of Venice for Custom The Island beareth enough of them yearly to charge five or six Vessels Cephalonia three or four and Nathaligo Mesalongia and Patras one of which some few are brought down from the Gulph of Lepanto To maintain this Trade the English have a little Factory here consisting of a Consul and five or six Merchants The Dutch have a Consul and one or two Merchants and the French have a Consul and Merchant in the same person The English have the chief Trade here and good reason they should for I believe they eat six times as much of their fruit as both France and Holland do The Zantiots have not long known what we do with them but have been perswaded that we use them only to Dye Cloth with and are yet strangers to the luxury of Christmas Pies Plum-potage Cake and Puddings c. Amongst the English Merchants is Mr. Pendames to whom I was much obliged as for other civilities so for his courtesie in shewing me the Island and in it one of the greatest curiosities that I have seen any where It is the Pitch or Tarr-Fountains of Zant. They are not above seven or eight miles from the Town But we made I believe twice as far by Sea For we had to pass about from this Port a long Promontory stretched out toward the Morea and thence to return to the Port on the other side of it In that Bay are two other little Rocks or Islands one of which is called Marathronesa or the Fennel-Island from the abundance of that Plant which groweth there called in Greek 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 In it there is only a little Church with a Caloyer or two who look to a Woman they pretend is possessed with a Devil But as my companion saith it is a foolish one For it told us that he was of Joadua though it could not speak one word of Italian nor could it tell of what Country we were or whether Married or Batchelours nor indeed make any pertinent answer but speak all in Rhime but little to the purpose The Pitch-springs rise at the foot of an high Mountain at the bottom of this Gulph about a hundred paces from the Sea The Pitch issueth out of the Earth with the water in Lumps or Balls sometimes as big as an Hasel-nut sometimes as a Wall-nut and riseth not presently to the top of the Water but in a while after doth It is like other Pitch in colour but hath a strong smell as near as I could guess like Oyl of Amber It is first soft but by lying in the Sun grows hard They gather about ninety or an hundred Barrels thereof yearly of which the State hath every Tenth which they save as it rises and Barrel it up and the owners sell the rest for two Gazets the pound which is not a half-peny English When the Wind blowed West that is over the Mountain at the foot of which this Spring lieth to the East and when there are Earthquakes it Vomiteth forth this Pitch in greater abundance than at other times Whence one may conjecture that some subterraneous fire is the cause of it which feeding upon sulphureous and bituminous matter what by reason of its small Vent it cannot devour it sends forth in this black substance The manner that I have seen Pitch made confirms me in this opinion which is thus They find some bank of ground wherein they dig a hole about two yards Diameter at ●e top but very narrow at the bottom into which they put the Wood of Pines chusing the most sappy and cleaving them into small splints then place them an end one above another until the hole is full When this is done they set all on fire at the top which by the Wood burneth still downward and as it burneth the Pitch distilleth to the bottom and so by a little hole is saved as it issueth forth Thus may this great Mountain be compared to a great Pitch-pit In the Duke of Modena's Dominions not far from his Country-house of Pleasure but nearer a Village called Sassolo is a Mountain named Zebio that sometimes burneth out in a light flame at the top like that of Vesuvius and Aetna but not with any great fierceness At the top is no hole to be seen but only a place about a yard Diameter filled with a muddy water which continually boileth up in bubbles sometimes only of air sometimes of water streaked with a greasie and sutty-colour'd substance This Water is of a white muddy colour of it self like the Soil of the Mountain which is of a whitish Freestone for the most part At the foot of this Mountain are two Springs of Oyl the one of a reddish and the other of a clear colour like ordinary Oyl Of this great part sweateth out of the Rock and part issueth out with Water and is called Petrolium in Latin and Olio Disusso in Italian Both smell alike although they be not of the same colour and both of the same smell with this of Zant. The subterraneous fire is undoubtedly the reason of this and that it is clearer and thinner of substance may be by reason that it is Filtrated thorough a more condensed matter than that of Zant But this is not peculiar to hot Countries for I received lately from Scotland an account of a Well of Oyl not far from Edenburgh with a bottle of the same Oyl from my Worthy Tutor Dr. Hicks Chaplain to his Grace the Duke of Lauderdale This is of a black colour like that of Zant but is thinner the smell neither so grateful nor so strong Beside the Curran-Grapes whereof I have already spoken and which are now ripe the Island affords other Vines that yield good though very strong Wine but which bears water so well that it may be made as small as Venetian Garbo and yet better tasted and as brisk The red Wine endures the Sea very well but the Muskatels not though they are very delicious and in great plenty here They make also abundance of excellent Oyl but it is not permitted to be Exported by Foreigners no more than the Wine only what the Island can spare is sent to Venice Here are the best Mellons I dare confidently say in the World if I may compare them with what I have eaten in England France Italy and Turky They are especially of Two kinds White and Yellow The White hath its Pulp of a pale green colour and has a perfumed taste and smell as if they were seasoned with Ambergrease Their shape is not
they were called upon to make haste by the word ΣΠΕΥΔΕ which was written also on the Pillar At Last they were to return riding about the Pillar on the further end therefore it had the word ΚΑΜΨΟΝ engraven on it By this Basso-relievo is expressed the Running of the Horses and the Emperour standing in the middle crowning the Victor But what that held up by Four Pillars and the other single round Pillar were for we could not conjecture unless only for Ornament Higher upon the middle part of the Basis are other Basso-relievoes engraven on the Four sides On one is the Emperour Theodosius holding a Wreath in his Hand with a great Croud of Souldiers about him On another is represented a great Company rejoycing with Musick of several sorts On another is represented the Emperour seated on a Throne with his Two Sons Honorius and Arcadius attended on by the rest of his Nobility But our time would not permit us to designe any more than what I have given you At the Southern End is another square Pillar of white Marble THE OTHER PILLAR but composed of many pieces raised on a Pedestal of the same The Top is broken off and the rest looks ready to fall down There is an Inscription on the Basis which we could not copy by reason of some Houses built about it said then to be infected with the Plague But Mr. Smith had the Opportunity to do it and hath Printed it in his Book after this manner whence by his Permission I will take it ΤΟ ΤΕΤΡΑΠΛΕΥΡΟΝ ΘΑΥΜΑ ΤΩΝ ΜΕΤΑΡΣΙΩΝ ΧΡΟΝΩ ΦΘΑΡΕΝ ΝΥΝ ΚΟΝΣΤΑΝΤΙΝΟΣ ΔΕΣΠΟΤΗΣ Ο ΡΩΜΑΝΟΥ ΠΑΙΣ ΔΟΞΑ ΤΗΣ ΣΚΗΠΤΟΥΧΙΑΣ ΚΡΕΙΤΤΟΝ ΝΕΟΥΡΓΕΙ ΤΗΣ ΠΑΛΑΙ ΘΕΩΡΕΙΑΣ Ο ΓΑΡ ΚΟΛΟΣΣΟΣ ΘΑΜΒΟΣ ΗΝ ΕΝ ΤΗ ΡΟΔΩ ΚΑΙ ΧΑΛΚΟΣ ΟΥΤΟΣ ΘΑΜΒΟΣ ΕΣΤΙΝ ΕΝΘΑΔΕ This Square wonder of high things being run to decay by time was renewed by the Emperour Constantine Son of Romanus the Glory of Scepter-Bearers excelling the Old Spectacle For the Wonder Colossus is at Rhodes but this Brazen Wonder is here Why this is called ΧΑΛΚΟΣ ΘΑΜΒΟΣ the Brazen Wonder I cannot imagine unless the Brazen Pillar now standing between This and the Obelisk should have been sometime set on the Top of this Lib II. Fig II. Brazen Pillar For between these standeth another Pillar of Brass BRAZEN PILLAR of about fourteen or fifteen Foot high It is cast in the form of three Serpents wreathed together until the top where their three Heads part and bend outwards in a Triangular Form whence some have thought it a Tripus of Apollo others a Charm against Serpents but what it was more than an Ornament to this place is uncertain But certainly if it stood on top of the other last recited Pillar it made a wonderful show and might deserve those swelling Epithetes on the Inscription which in my Opinion was so otherwise that Inscription agrees not with that Pillar which consisting only of pieces of Stones masoned together could not deserve so much praise To which I may add this brazen Pillar appears not in the Basso-relievo on the Hieroglyphical Pillar This Place is now bounded with Houses and Buildings on all the four sides among which on the West it hath one side of the Old Seraglio where the Women of the deceased Emperours are kept recluse till the dayes of their Deaths or at least bestowed on some Favourite Basha of the Succeeding Sultan Lib. II. Fig. IIII. The new Mosck or Achmet's Mosck To the Eastern-side of the Hippodrome ACHMETS MOSQUES one End of Achmets Mosque is joyned which is the most Magnificent of any at Constantinople Therefore I think it worth my pains to describe its Form as well as I can though I have not the Exact Dimensions of it Lib. II Fig. III. To this middle Cuppalo are joyned Four half Cuppaloes of the same Diameter with the middle one but much lower to which a smaller Cuppalo being fitted to each Corner the whole square Area is covered in a most splendid manner with Lead adorned on the Top with gilded Globes and Spires sustaining so many Crescents the Badge or Ensign of the Ottoman Empire It is flagged also within with white Marble and paved in like manner To all this are erected Six exceeding hig and slender Steeples or Spires which look like our Pillar at London built in memory of the Fire They are chanelled also but end in a gilded Spire sustaining a Crescent They are placed Two at the Western-Corners of the Court Two at the Front of the Mosque and Two behind About the middle of each of them there are Three Balconies or Galleries one above the other to which their Priests ascend by a winding pair of Stairs to sound forth their shrill Voices at several Times of the Night and Day to call the People to their Devotions These also at their Feasts New Moons and solemn Occasions they hang round with Lamps which being lighted at Night make a very splendid Show at a distance as I often observed from Gallata they being lighted almost every Night whilst I was there by reason of the Plague then raging in a more than ordinary manner This is the only Royal Mosque I observed to have Six Spires the rest have Four a piece or at least Two but the ordinary Mosques have usually but One. This Mosque is adorned within after this manner The Floor is covered with fine Indian Mats and Turkey-work Carpets because they slip off their Papuchas or Shoes when they go in to do their Devotions The Roof Seven or Eight Foot from the Ground is hung with many great Circles of Lamps one within another intermixed with Lustres or Balls of Glass and several other pretty Curiosities which when lighted at their Evening Devotions must needs make a splendid Show There is a Chair with a Desk on the Left Hand where the Mufti reads and expounds the Alcoran and on the other Side there goes up a little narrow pair of Stairs on the Top of which they read their Prayers Between these and on the East or South-East-End is a place made in the Wall formed like a Niche to set a large Statue in with the Bottom even with the Ground On each Hand of this Niche stands a very great Wax-Candle in a proportionable Brass Candle-stick Within the Niche in Arabick Characters is written the Form of the Mahometan Profession of Faith Towards this they alwayes turn their Faces when they say their Prayers which I believe is towards Mecha their Prophets Tomb because when they turn a Church into a Mosque which stands due East and West they alwaies make such a Niche on purpose on the Southern-Wall as I observed in St John's Church at Ephesus and the Temple of Minerva at Athens This is called the New Mosque although several very stately ones have been built since especially one lately by the Sultaness Mother to the present Emperour situate upon the Harbour near the Garden-Gate which although it be not inclosed within an outward Court like Achmet's it
Miles distant but I cannot judge it quite so much Just against the Mouth of the Bay of Mountania the Pope's Island as some of the Country now call it and in old time Besbicus West we had the Plain of Prousa strewed with Villages and here and there a considerable Town South-West the River Ascanius with the Lake full of little Islands There is a Plain on the top of the Monntain surrounded with little Hills pointed with Rocks from whence many Springs arise and collect themselves into a pretty Stream full of little Trouts some of which our Guide caught with his hands But the greatest part of the Stream cometh from a large Lake East-ward which we could not come to because the way was covered with Snow From whence the large Carps and Eeles I before mentioned are caught and Trouts of such Fame that they have gotten the good Name of all other Fish in the Turkish Language who call them Alagballuck the Good Fish And therefore the best of them used to be carried to the Grand Signior as a most delicate dish It is now time to tell you what luck we had a simpling the chief end of our mounting so high For after we had taken this Prospect and baited our selves I left Dr. Covel designing the Trout So ranging from top to top of the Mountain I gathered all the new things I met with and in two hours time returned with more curious Plants than I could ever since find Names for But such as I have found are as followeth 1. Towards the Foot of the Mountain ascending the first Mile or two are abundance of Chesnut-Trees that bear the largest and best Nuts I ever saw or tasted with other sorts of ordinary Trees 2. Something higher I observed many Lime-Trees and towards the top and on the top Groves of a sort of Firr-Trees which Dr. Covel and I took for Cedar-Trees because they bear the Cones upwards not hanging downwards as the other Firr-Trees do and the same shape with the Cedar viz. thick and short like an Egg and of a brown reddish colour and the Smell of the Cones and Gum very Odoriferous The Leaves also are not shaped like others but thicker duller pointed and have two Stripes of white on the back-side like Oxyjuniper It beareth the Branches round the Body orderly from the bottom to the top at several distances less and less unto the top where the Cones grow upon the young Branches upright I cannot tell whether it be not the Male-Pine for this Caspar Banhinus in his Pinax calleth the Male also Abies conis sursum spectantibus sive mas It agreeth also with Gerard's Description of the same excepting that the Body is smooth without Knots at the bottom For the Branches of this begin very near the Ground and spread abroad very large and that he saith The Cones are longer than any of the Coniferous Plants whereas this as I before said hath the Cone thick and shorter than any other in proportion It agreeth very well with the Description he giveth of the Cedar of Mount Libanus but I doubt it wanteth the hardness for I saw many rotten Trees of this but if I remember right of somewhat a reddish colour And also Mr. Gerard faileth in that he saith The Leaves of that of Libanus are shorter and not so sharp pointed whereas many of those Branches that I have seen have the Leaves much shorter indeed but more sharp pointed than this To conclude This Tree groweth in great plenty upon the Mountains of Greece also as Citheron and Helicon and Parnassus which Monsieur Nanteul observing who had been upon Mount Libanus and these also affirmed That they were the very same But although he is a very curious and ingenious Man yet I doubt his Curiosity doth not consist in narrowly distinguishing Plants Therefore this must be either another kind of Firr or Gerard hath failed in his Description of it I am rather induced to think it is a kind Firr because the Greeks yet call this Tree 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 which signifieth no other than a Firr-Tree and that it was never heard of that Cedars of the same kind with those of Mount Libanus grew in Greece 3. A kind of Cystus which groweth to a good large Shrub of a hard woody Substance covered with a Bark consisting of several thin Skins which easily separate one from another The first is of a brown Ash-colour the next reddish out of which come Branches dividing themselves by pairs each Twig ending in a bunch of Leaves which stand in pairs each pair crossing each other and at the Stem of the old Leafs issue new Buds very much like Sage but the Leaves are in shape ribbed with three Ribs like Alexandrian Laurel of a dark green colour and of a sweet smell thick and gummy On the top are Knots of Seeds divided into Three The Flowers I saw not It agreeth much with the Description and Design Mr. Johnson hath given to Gerard's History of Plants viz. page 1289. in the Cistus Ledum Matheoli Mr. Merchant of Paris called it when I shewed it him Cistus Laurinis folijs but had never before seen it 4. After montanus Linariae folio flore flavo as Mr. Merchant called it and I believe the same that C. Bauhinus calleth the Yellow Starwoort with stiff smooth Flaxweed Leaves and may be the Tenth described in Gerard but by me thus From a long black creeping and stringy Roor ariseth one two or more round and downy Stalks of a hard and shrubby Substance about two or three handfuls high sometimes branching it self out carelesly into other little Branches covered round about without order with long sharp leaves with streight Nerves in shape like Sneezing Woort but without snips at the Edges and dry and harsh to the Touch. The Back-sides of them are a little downy and the other side smooth At the top is a Yellow Flower guarded with the Leaves until it bloweth and is then succeeded with a Button full of downy Seeds which it holds fast Coris folys Crispatis Lib III. Fig II. 5. Another I found that I cannot tell what species I should reduce it to unless Coris It hath the Root Stalk and Seed and Smell resembling Coris or Hypericon the Leaves also somewhat like them but less and grow together in Tusts crisped and curled The Seeds grow in heads on the Top without order divided into three parts The Flower I saw not but it is a shrubby perennial Plant but not of quite so woody a Substance as Coris legitima Ch●sti which I shall have occasion to speak of when I come to Atheus This I shall call Coris Foliis Cr●spis M. Olympii Lib III. Fig III Hypericon montis Olypij folijs hursulis 6. Another Plant I found here which must be numbred among the Hypericons although I find it no where described or so that I knew it by their Description and is a Plant I never saw any where but upon this Mountain From
a stringy Root springeth at first a thick Tuft of tender Sprouts whose Leaves are set so thick after one another two by two and crossing each other that they quite hide the round Stalk and make it look most Beautiful It seemeth all over hairy but as it groweth up about half a foot high it stretcheth the Leaves to a greater distance from each other in pairs and still crossing each other They are of a light green colour ribbed oval and pierced like St John's Woort but not pointed at the Ends smooth on both sides but round the Edges very rough and hairy I observe now since they are dry that they are full of black Spots Towards the top of the Flowers come out one above another from between the Leaves and leave a little Button of Seed divided into three parts with a hairy Husk about it of fine Leaves I cannot be positive whether I saw the Flower or no but if my Memory doth not very much fail me I did and it was a reddish colour But it is perfectly faded in my Book being very thin and tender I think it may be properly called Hyperioon margine crinifero Olympii Montis 7. After Conyzoides Gesneri with another thought to be Astragalus Matheoli flore Caeruleo 8. Pyrola fruticosior tenerior or as Bauhinus frutescens Arbuti folio which expresseth more the Nature of it 9. Gentianella Verna which hath a Knot of small Ature Flowers growing close to the ground 10. Senetium lanuginosum as Mr. Merchant or rather Senetio incana pinguis according to C. Bauhinus page 131. Downy Grounsel for it is so fat and glutinous that it sticketh to the Fingers This is not described by Gerard But it groweth taller and of a more strong Substance than the ordinary Grounsel But to give an exact Description of it I know not well how For it is spoiled with bringing so far or rather for want of care in putting it up better The Leaves as I remember are somewhat bigger than the vulgar and something like Ragweed 11. Cerinthe Minor G. 12. Cystus Argenteis foliis as Mr. Merchant calleth it I do not find it described in Gerard nor can I sind any Name agreeing with it exactly in C. Bauhinus his Pinàx although there are many incana hirsuta This is a little shrubby Plant growing from one Root into a round Tuft of woody Branches not a handful high from the ground dividing it self into many white Twigs which are thick set with small triple Leaves covered with a shining Whiteness like Sattin among which I saw short broad and flat Cods but the Hair longer and more downy containing a little shining and broad Seed Perhaps it may be that which Bellonius telleth grows not in France nor Italy without giving any other Desrciption of it nor hath it by me been seen in either 13. Cymbalaria Italica G. 14. Calamentha montana praestantior G. 687. 15. Elichryson sive Gnaphalium comâ aureâ This is a very beautiful Plant which hath lying almost flat on the ground several long Leaves out of the middle of which riseth up a round Stalk of a handful and half high set about carelesly with narrow Leaves All of them from the bottom to the top covered with so thick white Down that it may be pulled off with the Fingers The top is crowned with a Tuft of scaly globular Flowers of a bright yellow colour which being gathered will continue fresh many Years 16. There is growing up and down upon the top of this Mountain Tufts of Grass or Rushes lying round together upon the ground like a Hedgehog or Porcupine about half a handful high each having a sharp hard point which makes it very hard to come at to gather any of it 17. Stratiotes Tragi page 476. or Millefolium Nobile G. I. B. page 1073. He hath forgot to mention the Odoriferous Smell it hath The Seeds smell like the Seeds of common Tansy but more pleasant His Design agreeth well with my Plants 18. Descending from the Mountain I observed another sort of Hypericon or St John's Woort with a single large Flower on the top upon a Stalk of a foot or better high whereon Leaves grow like the other St John's Woort but larger and by pairs at equal distances The Description that C. Bauhinus in his Prodromo page 130. giveth of Ascyron magno flore agreeth well with this only I may add That it beareth but one Flower at the top and that the Seeds follow the Flower in a round Cod like Park Leaves which he never saw but saith It was gathered in the Pyrenaean Mountains by Dr Barserus but this here upon Olympus 19. Panax Heracleum or Hercules All-heale But whether it beareth Opopanax here I had not time to examine 20. Borago Semper Virens or Everlasting Borage of which G. page 797. 21. On the Mountain in plain Places where standing Water had been I gathered a kind of Gnaphalium which I find not described It is most like the Leontopodium of Gerard But whereas he says That riseth a handful high This creepeth and lieth flat on the Ground From a little blackish Root spreade five or six or more downy Stems of about an Inch long on which are commonly half a dozen white sharp Leaves three long ones and three short ones like the Stoechas Citrina I but now mentioned Within which is a greenish yellow Flower I believe each of them take root and produce many more of the same For it spreadeth irregularly very much abroad whereof this I have now described is but a slip although it is rooted 22. I was shewed a dried Herb that groweth on this Mountain whereof the Powder is made we commonly call Tutti Dr Pickering called it Herba Tuitia I saw it only dry but it seemeth both in Root Leaves and Flower to be very like our ordinary Field-Cowslip only the Leaves are much longer and the Cups that contain the Flowers rather like Auricula Vrsi and the Flowers of a reddish colour of five little Leaves each with a notch also at the top They say when it is blown there is a Dust that may be shaken off this Plant which is the best Powder This Armenian told us There groweth a World of other curious Plants and fair Flowers about this Mountain but that the time of Year to see them was past As for me I was glad I found these and sorry that Night grew so near that I was forced to desist searching them to find the way down which we did with difficulty enough not being half way down before the Night over-took us nor arrived we to the Kan before ten or eleven at Night I was carried to a Turkish Quack-Salver a Man reputed for his Skill in Physick among them where I saw a great many ordinary Herbs dried in bundles some I knew not perhaps it was because ill dried All that I saw green was an Herb much like Germander only the Snips of the Leaves were sharp and not
Sum per Cent. Where by their Industry in Traffick for themselves also upon good Gains but little Loss they live gentilely become rich and get great Estates in a short time if they will be but indifferent good Husbands and careful of their Owners and their own Business The Officers allowed over them by the King and the Levant Company are a Consul a Chancellour a Treasurer a Divine and a Physician The Consul is allowed by the Levant Company Three thousand Dollars a year Salary and Five hundred of Gratuity besides other Perquisites and honest ways whereby he may get much more His Office is to maintain the Priviledges granted by the Grand Signior to the English Nation against the Injuries and Insolencies of the encroaching Turks instead of an Ambassadour to decide all Differences that happen between Factor and Factor to see that no Injury be done by any of the Factory to the Turks and to punish Delinquents So that he doth in effect govern the business of the whole Factory there but yet from his Sentence there may be an Appeal made to the Ambassadour Mr Rycaut was then Consul who writ the State and Policy of the Ottoman Empire and a Treatise of the Greek Church an Appendix to the Turkish History down to his time and also an Account of the Seven Churches of Asia He was very obliging to us amongst other Favours in directing and informing us concerning these Parts Their Chaplain is allowed Five hundred Dollars a year Salary by the Levant Company He hath besides a Ware-House allowed him to trade with besides customary Gifts of all the Merchants yearly which amount commonly to much more And indeed the whole Factory do live together in the greatest Unity Peace and Freedom of any of them I have seen beyond Sea The French and the Venetians have also their Consuls here but are in no great Credit amongst the Turks The English have the best Reputation for their honest dealing and therefore ordinarily their Word is taken instead of Searching But the Armenians pay more Custom than any The Turks have thirteen Mosques and the Jews several Synagogues All which makes the Town populous though ill built and without either Strength or Beauty All that defends it from the Incursions of Corsaires is a little Fort at the Strait coming in about five Miles from the Town whose great Guns are its best security For it hath but a little Ditch about it and the Walls such as by two or three great Guns would soon be beat to the ground As to the Castle on the Hill above the Town it is slighted and although it hath the old Wall about it I believe built by the Greek Emperours yet it is only a heap of Ruins within with here and there some arched Caves used antiently for Cisterns or Granaries as some think having only two or three little Guns mounted against the Haven to salute the Captain of the Gallies or as Mr Smith saith the New Moon at Bairam About the Walls are set one or two of the Roman Eagles well cut and another Basso-relievo of Men on Horse-back Over the Door is an Inscription in Marble in the later Greek Characters but too high and difficult to be read There is another little old fashion'd Castle at the Harbour for the Gallies and Boats On the other side of which Harbour is the Scale or Custom-house for the Grand Signiors own Subjects Beyond which South-wards under the Hill where St Polycarp's Tomb is are the English and Dutch Burying Places and North of the Castle along the Shore is first the New Bezestan built out of the great squared Stones of the Theater It is in form like a Street to shut up at each end The Shops are little Rooms with a Cuppalo over each of them covered with Lead and little Holes on the top with Glass to let in the light Opposite unto this is a very fine Kan now a building After which is the Scale and Custom-house of the Francks and then follows Franckstreet along by the Water-side with their Scales and Ware-houses convenient to lade and unlade their Goods and is the pleasantest and best built of any part of this present Smyrna Lib. III. Fig VI. A Camelion About Smyrna are abundance of Camelions CAMELIONS which is an Animal something resembling a Lizard but hath his back gibbous like a Hog and its Feet are divided like the Claws of a Wood-pecker or Parrot two Claws before and three behind which are not separated from each other until near the ends A long Tail it hath like a Rat and is ordinarily as big but it hath very little or no Motion with its Head They are in great abundance about the old Walls of the Castle where they breed and lie in holes and heaps of Ruins Several we saw and two we kept twenty days at least in which time we made these following Observations upon them Their Colour useth to be green darker toward the back and lighter towards the Belly inclining to a yellow with spots sometimes of a reddish colour and sometimes whitish But the green would often change into a dark dirt-colour without any appearance of green COLOUR The whitish Spots would sometimes vanish or turn into the same dirt-colour and sometime remain Sometimes they would only change into a darker colour of a kind of purple-like tincture which used often to happen when it was disturbed Sometimes from a green all over they would be spotted with a pure black which also happened sometimes when it returned from the black Ordinarily when it slept under a white woollen Cap it would when uncovered be of a white or creamcolour But this it would do also under a red Cap. I never saw any change red or blue although they have been laid upon those colours often and continued there a long time But upon green they would become green and upon the dark Earth they would soon change to that colour One of the same bigness of which you see the Figure I caught as I was walking on the side of the Hill near the old Castle where I saw many which had changed themselves to the colour of the speckled Stone-walls to a grey with spots like Moss This I found on the top of a green bush of Prunella Spinosa which when I first cast my eye upon it was of a bright green colour but as soon as it perceived that I saw it it immediately let it self drop to the ground and I as soon stooped to look for it but could see nothing yet continuing to look about earnestly at last I perceived it creeping away to a Hole in the Rock being changed to a dark brown colour exactly like the Earth which was then of that colour after a shower of Rain This changing of Colours is given to this Creature by Nature for its Preservation For it is very slow in its pace lifting up its Legs high and not quick as if they saw not the way before them or rather
admirable Description of a Storm we had in each point so dreadfully experimented How could we then forbear taking his Advice and give Him the Praise who so graciously was pleased to deliver us from those Terrours of Death encompassing of us round about And how could we more acceptably express our Gratitude than by that Sacred Hymn he had inspired the best of Poets as well as Kings with part of which I have endeavoured in our Language thus to Paraphrase O that Mankind would praise the Lord and show His Wonders done for Mortals here below And here 't is just for me to bear my part Who though I want fit Words want not a Heart From the safe Port whom gentle Gales invite To loose to Sea and take a Wat'ry Flight These plainly see God's Wonders in the Deep These surely learn who 't is their Souls doth keep When on the smoothest Calm the Heavens frown And Storms from Mountain tops send Thund'ring down They soon print Wrinkles on its polish'd Brow And into Mounts and Vales those Plains do plow The Waves lift up their Voice the Billows rage No Mortal Pow'r their Fury can asswage They foam and roar they toss the Ships so high That many times they seem to touch the 〈◊〉 But soon are plung'd again into the Deep And in the World's Abyss do trembling peep Few there have any Appetite to Meat And those that have can no where sit to eat Like Drunken Men they stagger to and fro On dancing Decks what mortal Man can go Their Wits quite gone their Reason from them fled They look upon themselves already dead Then cry they to the Lord in their distress For God alone such Troubles can redress He soon Commands the Winds into his Treasure And rolls the plough'd-up Floods to Vales of Pleasure He brings them safe to their desired Port He gives them Rest and is their strongest Fort. Why then should Men neglect to praise his Name Who furious Winds and raging Seas doth tame The End of the Third BOOk THE Fourth BOOK CONTAINING A VOYAGE FROM ZANT THROUGH Several Parts of GREECE TO ATHENS SO soon as we had kept our Christmas a Ship-board with our Captain not being permitted to do it a Shore coming from those Parts of Turky suspected of Contagion we hired a good Barque with a Greek that could speak Italian and a little English to serve us and notwithstanding we had once been turned back by contrary Winds the day before yet December 28th we passed over to Castle-Tornese CASTLE-TORNESE being about eighteen or twenty Miles to the nearest Shore of Peloponnesus now called Morea The Castle is upon a Hill half a dozen Miles from the Shore But we went forward and turned the Promontory Chelonitis between it and a Scoglio called Cacolidida with Shallows about it and by ten in the Morning made thirty Miles from Zant to Chiarenza a ruined City formerly belonging to the Venetians There are such vast Masses of Wall turned upside down joyned together with so hard a cement that they are not much broken but so big that it could be nothing but Gun-Powder or an Earthquake that could have removed them from their Foundations in that manner The Situation CHIARENZA olim CYLLENE and those Marks of Antiquity assured us That this was the antient City Cyllene the Country of Mercury from whence he was sirnamed Cyl●nius But his Eloquence hath so little prevail'd with Saturn and Mars that they have not spared either his City or Country it being left without Habitation or an Inhabitant The Port is now fill'd up with Sand and Earth but there is good Anchorage in the Bay without yet open to the North and North-East-Winds Here lay then three small Vessels they call Tartans much used by the French Merchants They live well at Sea and will make way very close to the Wind. These coming to lade Provisions for Messina we found that Oxen were then sold for five or six Dollers a piece Sheep for about three Shi●ings and Corn as good cheap About two Miles further is a Covent o● Greek-Monks About six Miles South-East of Castle-Tornese is a Town the Turks call Clemouzzi CLEMOUZZY GASTOUNI About sixteen from thence also is another indifferent large Town called Gastouni which is about five Miles from the Sea and on a River which perhaps was the River Penea Thence continuing along the Coasts of the Morea twenty Miles further we came to Cotichi COTICHI where there is a Fishing Place called Pescharia which is a Lake fed and stored by the Sea where in July they catch abundance of Mullets to make Botargus and Salt-Fish There is such abundance of all sorts of Wild Fowl Ducks Teals Wild-Geese Pelicans c. resort thither as would bring much Profit in any Place but Turky were a Decoy made there Here we lay all Night in our Boat The next day we parted early and keeping still along the same Shore CONOPOLI we came to a Point about six Miles thence called Conopoli On the top of the Rock is a ruined Tower with the Rubbish of a Town about it but what it was formerly called I know not From the Foot of the Rock is a Spring of Hot Salt and Bituminous Water which runneth down into the Sea within a yard or two of its Source About it I observed plenty of Common Alexanders Cyclamen PLANTS or Sowbread Anagyris foetida then in flower which grows to a good big Shrub of a yard and half high whose Twigs are set with a large three-fold Leaf each of which are long and somewhat narrow of a deep green colour and of a strong stinking smell The Flowers also grow out in little bunches like the other Laburnum but larger and of a deeper yellow colour spotted also with black or Hare-colour'd Spots The outward Leaf is the shortest the next pair longer and the inmost longest all divided at the ends The Flower is succeeded by a long Cod like a French Bean filled at like distances with a Seed as big of a blue or purple colour and exceeding hard Staphys agria or Staves-acre not long come up from the Seeds A kind of Bryony not differing from the white above ground only the Leaves were spotted with white Spots Hence we had the Prospect of a large Plain along the Shore beyond us and behind us but a good way within the Land most part of it is covered with Pine-Trees Continuing yet six or seven Miles further along the same Coasts we came to another point called Cape Calogrea Cape CALOGREA where we were shewed a Well or Fountain called Durach-bey because dug by a famous Turkish Pirate of that Name By this are the Mouths of two Rivers near together or the same River emptying it self by two Mouths for our Mariners assured us they were distinct One of them very probably is the River Larissus of the Antients LARISSUS Fluv which distinguished the Provinces of Eleum and Dimaeum Near
ΑΡΙΣΤΩΝ ΦΙΛΟΚΡΑΣΙΟΣ This Town was celebrated in old times for the Oracle of Trophonius which was in a Cavern in a Hill I rather believe it was in that above the Town than that Monsieur Spon mentions and we saw in a Rock a Mile distant North of it when we parted thence to Thebes But Pausanias indeed is not so clear as might be wished by reason of his long Digression Nevertheless one may collect it being he saith That the Trophonian Grove was by the Fountain of this River Hercyna And I observ'd where the Water issueth out in greatest abundance it was made up with Boards just in the Corner under the Castle without doubt to cover some dangerous Cavern And Pausanias saith This Oracle was in the Mountain above the Grove so that it must be that above the Town if that were the Fountain Hercyna of which there is no doubt By Pausanias his Description one would believe that the Hole on the Top of the Hill reached to this at the Bottom For those that entred it to consult the Oracle were to put their Head and Knees in such a certain place and posture and were suddenly carried down as by a Vortex or Whirlepool of a most swift River This might easily be so done by stopping the Water at the Bottom until it rose very high and then letting it go of a sudden But he that went to steal the Treasure there had not so good a Preparation for it prov'd a Trap to him by which he broke himself to pieces and was taken up another way as Pausanias informs you All these things want good Search and Examination and are not easily to be found out by Travellers that stay but a little while in a Place unless we should suppose them to have so many of the antient Greek Authors almost by heart There were publick Games instituted in honour of this God Trophonius of which notwithstanding none of the ●●tients speak unless Julius Pollux who mentions only that these Games took their Name from Trophonius Yet that they were celebrated in this Place viz. at Livadia we found by a Stone at Megara erected in honour to one who amongst the Prizes he had gain'd in other Places had won these also at Livadia We found an Inscription wherein there seems to be a Town of this Name ΤΟΙ ΙΠΠΟΤΗ ΛΕΒΑΔΕΙΕΩΝ ΑΝΕΘΙΑΝ ΤΡΕΦΩΝΙΟΙ .. ΝΠΑΞΑΝΤΕΣ ΙΠΠΑΣΙΝΠΑΜΒΟΙΩΤΙΑ ΙΠΠΑΡΧΟΝΤΟΣ ΔΕΞΙΠΠΟΣ ΑΥΚΡΑΤΕΙΩ ΕΙΛΑΡΧΙΟΝΤΩΝ ΑΡΙΣΤΩΝΟΣ ΘΡΑΣΩΝΙΩ ΕΠΙΤΙΜΟΣ ΑΥΚΡΑΤΕΙΩ But therein they are written ΤΡΕΦΩΝΙΟΙ if I have copied it right of which I am not so well assured as to be positive The Game Pamboiotia is here mentioned which Strabo and Pausanias say was celebrated in the Plain of Coronaea by or in the Temple of Minerva Itonia where all the Boeotians assembled for that purpose January the Twenty fifth we parted from Livadia about eleven in the Morning and about half a Mile out of Town being come to the top of a little Hill being a small Ridge of Laphystius we had the Prospect of a spacious and fertil Plain encompassed with Mountains but not very high if compared with those of Parnassus and Helicon It is stretched in length from Livadia South-East near twenty Miles and in breadth is as much comprehending the Lake and Marshes which take up near half of the North-East side of it This Lake was formerly called The Lake of Copais but now Livadias Limne or The Lake of Livadia and not Stivo-lago meaning I suppose Thiva Limne as our Modern Maps make it For that is another Lake that was formerly called Hylica palus Of all which I shall have more to say in the Last Book We left the Lake Copais at a good distance on the left hand and kept still streight forwards under the Mountains on the right hand South-Eastwards which I suppose were the Mountains Tilphusium and Laphystius I observ'd six good large Streams crossing our way and running Northwards towards the Lake which may be Ocaled Tilphusa Lophis Olmens Coralius and Permessus mentioned by Pausanias and Strabo There are many little Villages up and down in this Plain some Vineyards a great deal of Corn-ground and Pasturage well stock'd also with Sheep and other Cattle But it is very much subject to Inundations upon great Rains or melting of the Snow from the Mountains which is no wonder having no Passage above ground for the Water out of the Lake but only that into Hylica palus which also lieth so high that the greatest ●art of the Plain must needs be drowned before the overflowing Water would find a Passage that way the ordinary Passages out of the Lake being under ground About fourteen Miles from Livadia we past by a Village on our left hand called Charamenitis and about an hour before night another which they call Diminia that is to say Two Months because the Corn there is sowed ripe and reaped within the space of two Months the Floods of the Lake not permitting them to sow before April and it being Harvest-time with them by the beginning of June By this Town is a Rock on the Top of which appear the antient Walls of a Town My Companion thinketh it may be Onchestus but I think it rather Coronaea for Reasons I have elsewhere given Here is a Fountain that riseth at the Foot of the Rock which makes the Stream Coralius In half an hour thence we came to Megalo-molci where we lodged in an indifferent good Kan Molci signifies properly Farms belonging to the Grand Signior where those that inhabit are no other than his Servants and Workmen This is a large square Court composed of little Houses for those that either labour till the Ground or attend the Cattle where at night they retire to lodge These seem badly to imitate the Roman Colonies with this great difference That those had still some great Priviledges granted them but these are all Slaves The next day we parted thence by Sun-rising and within half an hour came to the South-East end of the Plain bounded by a little Ridge of a Mountain that runneth out from Mount Phoenix on the left hand and another on the right I believe was Libethrius As soon as we got on the Top of this Hill we began to see Thebes at the further end of another Plain East North-East of us and behind us we had the Hill by Livadia West North-West This Plain is now called Thivas Cambos and in old time to the same effect the Theban Plain It is bounded with Hills and Mountains and is much less than that of Livadia The Northern Bounds of this I take to be the Mountain Phoenicius from Strabo which Pausanias seems to call Sphinx or Sphingius mons That on the right hand or the Southern Bounds of this Plain I know not how it was antiently called but is a Ridge of the Mountain Libethrius which is the same of the Mountain Helicon and is the same that separates the Plain of Thespia from the Plain of Thebes I observed a Torrent run
from Syria which may be concluded as well from his Name Antiochus common to all the Kings of Syria and out of respect to them generally assumed by others of that Nation as also by the Statue of Antiochus at his right hand as one of his Illustrious Ancestors whom the Athenians honoured and owned for their great Benefactor as appears by their naming one of their Tribes after his Name ΑΝΤΙΟΧΙΔΟΣ As to his being named of Besa he could not have the Honour of being a Citizen of Athens without being inrolled in some of their 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 or Towns belonging to their Tribes So that his being qualified of Besa in the Inscription hinders not but he might be a Native of Syria In a Relieve below the cornish of this is a Triumphal Chariot carrying the Consul in it with Figures before and after That his Name is not among the Roman Consuls upon the Consular Tables my Comrade thinks to be because he was only Consul Suffectus or Designatus and died before the other Consuls year was quite out Odeum L●L V. From the top of the Musaeum there runs a ridge of Rocks descending Westwards AREOPAGUS Upon the Brow of which regarding the North are the Foundations of a Building supposed to be the Famous Areopagus of Athens For Pausanias although he is short in the Description puts it on this side of the Town Without doubt it is either that Building or the Theatre called The Odeum For Pausanias begins his Description as coming from Pyraea and first within the Gates mentions the place Ceraunicus then after the Regio Portico and Tholis he comes to the Odeum the Fountain Henneacrene Temples of Ceres and Fame Afterwards he begins again above the Ceramicus and the Regio Portico passing along from thence to the Temple of Vulcan and then to the Portico called Pocile thence to the Gymnasium of Ptolomy and by it to the Temple of Theseus which also is in this quarter of the Town over a little Hill North of this therefore whatever it was in old time it now remains thus It is situate upon the brow of that Rock that hath the Turkish Burying place North and North-East the Theatre of Bacchus and the Castle more East with a little Valley between The Foundations are of vast Stones cut in a point like a Diamond and built in a semicircular Form whose Diameter may be about an hundred and forty ordinary paces but the two Radii meet in an obtuse Angle on the back part of it which is entirely hewn out of the Rock In the centre of those Radii is cut a square place higher than the rest of the Area behind which are steps to go to the top of it being about a mans height high On each hand of that are Seats to sit on near the length of the Radii This is taken to be the Tribunal of the so much celebrated Areopagus and the Benches on each hand the Seats of the Senators But if perchance this should have been the Odeum or Musick Theatre as De la Gulitier seems to make it in his Design though he calls it the Theatre of Bacchus which is more evidently false than surely this Tribunal and Theatre was built for the Poet Baies to sing his Verses on and might be called instead of the Tribunal of the Areopagus the Thymelaea or Proscenium c. and instead of the Ranks of Senators who sat to give mature Judgments in cases of great difficulty those Stone-benches were made only to serve a Chorus of Fidlers so ridiculously hath time and ●ill fortune masked and deformed the Grandeur of ancient Times and Places Descending hence Northward you pass over a little Valley and the Turkish Burying-place then mounting again and leaving the Theatre of Bacchus at the West end of the Castle on the right hand you get to the top of a little Steep though Hill or rather a ridge of little Hills descending from the Rock of the Castle Being on the top I remembred one thing which my Companion I find takes not any notice of It is a Fountain accommodated according to the Turkish mode with one or two Cocks of water I have considered the situation of the place and do believe it to be a Spring For I remember when I went first up to the Castle I would have tasted of it but the Consul told me the water was not very good to drink but was used by the Turks for other ordinary occasions in the Castle I am sure there are no Aqueducts to bring water so high the Turks seldom or never using so much as Leaden Pipes or if they did they would not bestow so much cost to procure themselves bad water when they might have good so much cheaper from Mount Hymettus My opinion is That this is that only Spring in the Town that Pausanias speaks of near the Odeum saying There are many Wells in the Town but only one Spring which was called Henneacrene because the water issued out by nine several Spouts and was thus adorned by the Tyrant Pisistratus This in another place he mentions only by the name of 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 or Spring coming down from the Acropolis-wards to the Temple of Apollo and Pan near the Propylaea or outward Gate of the Castle He mentions it a third time to this purpose Going to the Castle saith he by the Theatre of Bacchus is the Monument of Calus c. But the Temple of Aesculapius is worthy to be seen for the many Statues and Pictures of him and his Children in which is a Fountain near which they say Halirrhothius the Son of Neptune lay with Alcippa the Daughter of Mars and was therefore slain by him which Murder gave occasion for the first Judgment to be given on Capital crimes All these places evidently mark out the Fountain we speak of Again after he had spoken of the Temple of Pan and Apollo by way of connexion he adds 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 which his Translator turns not well Quae verò Vrbis regia Areopagus dicitur c. For so he seems to break the thread of Pausanias his Description Sylburgius therefore corrected him well translating it thus Secundum hoc est ea Vrbis pars quae Areopagus dicitur About by or near which place is that part of the City called The Areopagus making this good conjecture perhaps saith he from the nearness of it to the Hill of Mars For from this Fountain as I said runs the ridge of a Hill from the Castle North-Westwards and might well enough be called Mars his Hill on which that Region of the City was built that bears Mars his Name being called Areiospagus or the Village of Mars Pausanias further adds That in this place there were two Senates or Councils The one was the Senate of the Five hundred to whom belonged the Judgment of all common and ordinary matters The other was the Senate of the Areopagites only where they judged of Capital crimes
South-East by East 5. M●cronisa in times past Helena beginneth South-East and endeth South-East by South 6. An Island called S. Georgio di Alboro toward Milo South by West 7. Cape Schil●o or the Promontorium Schillaeum of the Morea forming the Saronick Gulph South South-West 8. The highest point of Aegina by us called Engia South-West by West 9. Another Island which I think is Lavousa West by South 10. Corinth West by North. 11. Paleovouni or Geranea mons West North-West Macriplai in the same Line a little more North And between them is Megara 12. Helicon now called Zagara North-West by West 13. Cithaeron now Elataea beginneth North-West by West endeth North-West by North. 14. Parnes mons now Chasha and Nozea beginneth North-West by North endeth North by East It s highest Point North The way over it to Chalcis now Egripus North by East 15. Pentelicus mons its highest Point North-East by North. 16. Porto Raphti antiently Panormus Portus on the Attick Shore South-East by East 17. Promen●or●● 〈◊〉 now Capo Colonni South by East 18. P●troc●● Insid● now called Guidronisa South 19. Ph●lar●ns Port●● Munichia and beyond them the Island Salamis now Colouri West 20. Piraens Portus now Porto Draconi by the Turks Porto Lioni by the Francks West by North. 21. The Promontory Amphialia and streight between Salamis and Attica West North-West 22. Eleusis now Lepsina North-West by West 23. A Hill about a Mile from Athens in the way to Cape Colonni whence I took another Prospect of Athens West North-West 24. The Wood of Olive-Trees on the River Cephisus begins West North-West ends North North-West 25. Athens-Castle North-West by West 26. Anchesmus or Mount S. Georgio id After I had done this and taken some of the prospects of the Mountains as the little time I had would permit I made all the haste I could down although very unwillingly so soon for fear of being benighted as Mr. Vernon was on the same account and shut out of the Town putting the Consul to a great deal of care and trouble for his safety being gone out alone a foot and without a Guide The first time I went forth with my Companion and the Consul we losing our labour by reason of the Snow that fell returned down the nearest way we could passing by three Monasteries that lay on that side of the Mountain The first in descending is called Hagio-Jani ho Carias The second is now deserted and they say the Italians had formerly a Church there in common with the Greeks called Hagios Georgios ho Koutelas The third is called Hagios Kyriani by the Greeks and by the Turks Cosbashi because of a Sheeps Head engraven on a Marble-Sepulchre now made use of for a Cistern to the Fountain arising there whose stream falls into the Ilissos The Covent is well enough built for that Country where they do not strive to excel in stately Buildings but rather to hide themselves as much as they can in obscurity from the World This Mountain is celebrated for the best Honey in all Greece of which it makes a great quantity to send to Constantinople where it is much esteemed for making Sorbets They use therefore to bring all the Honey made hereabouts to be marked with the Mark of this Monastery of Cosbashi to make it sell the better We eat of it very freely finding it to be very good and were not at all incommodated with any Gripings after it This Mountain was not less famous in times past for Bees and admirable Honey the Antients believing that Bees were first bred here and that all other Bees were but Colonies from this Mountain which if so we assured our selves that it must be from this part of the Mountain that the Colonies were sent both because the Honey here made is the best and that here they never destroy the Bees It is of a good consistence of a fair gold-colour and the same quantity sweetens more water than the like quantity of any other doth which they sufficiently experience in making Sorbet They wondred at my Comrade in that he preferred the white Honey of France as that of Provence is telling him the white Honey was raw and not perfectly concocted either by Nature or the Bees Strabo I remember saith The best Honey of Hymettus was by the Silver Mines But where they were is now unknown unless hereabouts by the same reason Now the best Argument to prove that Bees had their original from hence is That here they never destroy or impair the Stock of Bees in taking away their Honey A thing which I no sooner knew but I was inquisitive to understand their Method in Ordering the Bees which being an Art so worthy the Knowledge of the Curious I shall not think it beside the purpose to relate what I saw and was informed to that effect by such as had Skill in this Place Lib. VI. The Greek Beehive The Hives they keep their Bees in ORDERING OF BEES are made of Willows or Osiers fashioned like our common Dust-Baskets wide at the Top and narrow at the Bottom and plaister'd with Glay or Loam within and without They are set the wide end upwards as you see here A. B. The Tops being covered with broad flat Sticks as at C. C. C. are also plaistered with Clay on the Top and to secure them from the Weather they cover them with a Tuft of Straw as we do Along each of those Sticks the Bees fasten their Combs so that a Combe may be taken out whole without the least bruising and with the greatest ease imaginable To increase them in Spring time that is in March or April until the beginning of May they divide them first separating the Sticks on which the Combs and Bees are fastened from one another with a Knife so taking out the first Combs and Bees together on each side they put them into another Basket in the same Order as they were taken out until they have equally divided them After this when they are both again accommodated with Sticks and Plaister they set the new Basket in the Place of the old one and the old one in some new Place And all this they do in the middle of the day at such time as the greatest part of the Bees are abroad who at their coming home without much difficulty by this means divide themselves equally This Device hinders them from swarming and flying away In August they take out their Honey which they do in the day-time also while they are abroad the Bees being thereby they say disturbed least At which time they take out the Combs laden with Honey as before that is beginning at each out-side and so taking away until they have left only such a quantity of Combs in the middle as they judge will be sufficient to maintain the Bees in Winter swee ping those Bees that are on the Combs they take out into the Basket again and again covering it with new Sticks and Plaister All that I doubt concerning the
be our Agiati or Guide called Jani who furnished us with three Horses for ten Timins a day that is about three Shillings Six-pence English Money he himself finding them Meat He was an admirable Fellow for our purpose following us always on foot and if he saw any old Church or Building near the way he would presently run to it to see if he could find any Inscription or other mark of Antiquity upon it which if he did he would immediately call out to us Scrittione Scrittione He was so used to his work both by the Consul and us that he seldom made us lose out labour If he saw any Flower or Plant that he thought was not common he would not fail to gather it and bring it to me saving me often the labour of lighting from my Horse to gather those I observed my self And he did indeed so accommodate himself to our curiosity that we had all the reason in the World to be well satisfied with him who served us so well Our Consul also was so kind to us as to lend us his Druggerman armed with his Barrat or Licence from the Grand Seignior to secure us against Examinations and other hazards we might meet with from the Turks and was so civil as to accompany us himself as far as Eleusis Thus on Shrove Tuesday in the Morning being the 5th of February 1675 6 directing our course North-Westwards from Athens we passed again the Olive-yards leaving the way to Colouri on the left hand In an hour and halfs riding over the Plain of Athens we began to ascend the Hill now called Daphne from the abundance of Oleanders that grow there they call Picra-Daphne or Bitter Laurel This Hill begins in the way from Thebes to Athens and ends at the Promontory that makes the Streight between Salamis and it It is divided by this way into two high Points whereof that towards the Sea was undoubtedly that which Strabo calls Coridalis mons the other Thucydides calls Aegalis Mounting between these two tops of the Hill in half an hour we came to an antient Convent of Caloyers seated between the Ridges on it called also Daphne It is about half way to Eleusis and founded as they say by the fair penitent Magelone 'T is fenced with high Walls about it but for all that it is so infested by the Turks and Corsairs that there is seldom found above one or two Caloyers in it the rest being retired commonly to an Hermitage up higher among the Rocks of the Mountain For it is a great Road that way to the Morea and consequently haunted by the unruly Turks passing that way and the Corsairs often visit it because it is within half an hours riding to the Sea-side The Church here is dedicated to the most holy Virgin and hath been a Fabrick very beautiful having a large Cuppalo in the middle of it encrusted within with antient Mosaick Work of which the Picture of our Saviour is yet remaining Without the Gate is a Well of very good fresh Water from whence we descended between the two Ridges of the Hill and in less than half an hour came to the Sea-side Whence winding about the Bay which from Porto-Lione and the Streight of Salamis runneth in Northwards we came to a little Lake of Salt and Bituminous Water running out into the Sea by a little Stream called by Pausanias Scirus The Lake seems to be the Rhaeti alvei mentioned by Pausanias to be the antient Bounds between the Athenians and Eleusinians not between Attica and Eleusis as either the Interpreter or Printer of Pausanias mistakes There is a Hill also North of it which had a Town on it and both called Scirus A little further we came to the River Cephisus which then was but a little Stream but after Rains and melting of the Snow from the Mountains it swells so big that it overflows a good part of the Plains It comes down from the Mountain Parnes-ward and from those towards the Eleutherians and Mount Cithaeron It is now called only Palaeo-milo from an old Mill that stood there in times past But now nothing remains of it save only the Pool that poured in the Water But higher it hath yet some Mills under the Mountain Daphne along the foot whereof it keeps its Course This is that Cephisus Pausanias mentions which must not be any ways confounded with that Strabo speaks of which runneth West of the City of Athens which some by mistake call Eridanus of which elsewhere There is another Cephisus in Boeotia that empties it self into the Lake Copais and at Sycion another that falls into the Gulph of Gorinth now called the Gulph of Lepanto On this side of the Eleusinian Cephisus Paus in Attic. as Pausanias well distinguisheth it from the other was the Sepulcher of Theodorus a famous Tragedian and on the Banks of it were the Statutes of Mnesitheus and his Son who consecrated the Hair of his Head to the River Cephisus being the Custom of the Greeks in those days to make that Offering to the Rivers they esteemed their Gods Having passed the Stream we continued our way over a spacious Plain along a Causway paved with large Stones which then was beautified with Anemonies of all sorts of Colours mixed and shaded between White and Scarlet and between a deep Blue and White This was called the Via Sacra in antient times from the great Processions made by the Athenians unto the sacred Mysteries of Ceres at Eleusis We observed many Ruins as we went along it of Churches or Temples especially one about some two Miles beyond the River which we judg'd to be that of the Cyamites so called as Pausanias thinketh from some Hero of that Name who first taught them to sow Beans there For 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 signifies a Bean. About a Mile further we saw the Ruins of another Temple of which one Panel of Wall was only standing of a greyish-colour'd Sone which we therefore judg'd might be some Temple of Venus which Pausanias saith was of ordinary Stone Just at the Ruins of Eleusis is a little Church dedicated to St George which hath standing about it some beautiful Pillars chanelled and of the Ionick Order as I knew by their Chapters which lay not far off from thence Before it are two great round Stones either for the Basis to Pillars or Pedestals for Statues with Inscriptions on each of them but much defaced This without doubt was the Temple of Diana Propylaea so called because her Temple was situate without the Gates of the City Eleusis One of these Inscriptions speaks of one Nicostrata Daughter of Meneo ..... of the Town Berenicida initiated into the Mysteries of Ceres and Proserpina For I take 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 to signify Proserpina the Daughter of Ceres ηΒΟΥΛΗ ΕΞΑΡΕΟΠΑΓΟΥ χΠυ Π .... δηΜΟΣ ΝΙΚΟΣΤΡΑΤΗΝ ΜΕΝΝΕΟ ....... βΕΡΝΕΙΚΙΔΟΥ ΘΥΓΑΤΕΡΑ ΜΥΗΘΕΙΣΑΝ ..... ΑΦΕΣΤΙΑΣ ΔΗΜΗΤΡΙ ΚΑΙ ΚΟΡΗ ΑΝΕΘΗΚΕ ΕΠΙΜΕΛΗΘΕΝΤΟΣ ΤΗΣ ΑΝΑΘΕΣΙΑΩΣ ΤΟΥ ΕΠΙΤΡΟΠΟΥ ΑΥΤΗΣ ΤΑΙΟΥ ΚΑΣΙΟΥ ΣΗΜΑΚΙΔΟΥ