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ID	Title	Author	Corrected Date of Publication (TCP Date of Publication)	STC	Words	Pages
A65620	A journey into Greece by George Wheler, Esq., in company of Dr. Spon of Lyons in six books ... : with variety of sculptures.	Wheler, George, Sir, 1650-1723.; Spon, Jacob, 1647-1685.	1682 (1682)	Wing W1607; ESTC R9388	386,054	401

admirable Description of a Storm we had in each point so dreadfully experimented How could we then forbear taking his Advice and give Him the Praise who so graciously was pleased to deliver us from those Terrours of Death encompassing of us round about And how could we more acceptably express our Gratitude than by that Sacred Hymn he had inspired the best of Poets as well as Kings with part of which I have endeavoured in our Language thus to Paraphrase O that Mankind would praise the Lord and show His Wonders done for Mortals here below And here 't is just for me to bear my part Who though I want fit Words want not a Heart From the safe Port whom gentle Gales invite To loose to Sea and take a Wat'ry Flight These plainly see God's Wonders in the Deep These surely learn who 't is their Souls doth keep When on the smoothest Calm the Heavens frown And Storms from Mountain tops send Thund'ring down They soon print Wrinkles on its polish'd Brow And into Mounts and Vales those Plains do plow The Waves lift up their Voice the Billows rage No Mortal Pow'r their Fury can asswage They foam and roar they toss the Ships so high That many times they seem to touch the 〈◊〉 But soon are plung'd again into the Deep And in the World's Abyss do trembling peep Few there have any Appetite to Meat And those that have can no where sit to eat Like Drunken Men they stagger to and fro On dancing Decks what mortal Man can go Their Wits quite gone their Reason from them fled They look upon themselves already dead Then cry they to the Lord in their distress For God alone such Troubles can redress He soon Commands the Winds into his Treasure And rolls the plough'd-up Floods to Vales of Pleasure He brings them safe to their desired Port He gives them Rest and is their strongest Fort. Why then should Men neglect to praise his Name Who furious Winds and raging Seas doth tame The End of the Third BOOk THE Fourth BOOK CONTAINING A VOYAGE FROM ZANT THROUGH Several Parts of GREECE TO ATHENS SO soon as we had kept our Christmas a Ship-board with our Captain not being permitted to do it a Shore coming from those Parts of Turky suspected of Contagion we hired a good Barque with a Greek that could speak Italian and a little English to serve us and notwithstanding we had once been turned back by contrary Winds the day before yet December 28th we passed over to Castle-Tornese CASTLE-TORNESE being about eighteen or twenty Miles to the nearest Shore of Peloponnesus now called Morea The Castle is upon a Hill half a dozen Miles from the Shore But we went forward and turned the Promontory Chelonitis between it and a Scoglio called Cacolidida with Shallows about it and by ten in the Morning made thirty Miles from Zant to Chiarenza a ruined City formerly belonging to the Venetians There are such vast Masses of Wall turned upside down joyned together with so hard a cement that they are not much broken but so big that it could be nothing but Gun-Powder or an Earthquake that could have removed them from their Foundations in that manner The Situation CHIARENZA olim CYLLENE and those Marks of Antiquity assured us That this was the antient City Cyllene the Country of Mercury from whence he was sirnamed Cyl●nius But his Eloquence hath so little prevail'd with Saturn and Mars that they have not spared either his City or Country it being left without Habitation or an Inhabitant The Port is now fill'd up with Sand and Earth but there is good Anchorage in the Bay without yet open to the North and North-East-Winds Here lay then three small Vessels they call Tartans much used by the French Merchants They live well at Sea and will make way very close to the Wind. These coming to lade Provisions for Messina we found that Oxen were then sold for five or six Dollers a piece Sheep for about three Shi●ings and Corn as good cheap About two Miles further is a Covent o● Greek-Monks About six Miles South-East of Castle-Tornese is a Town the Turks call Clemouzzi CLEMOUZZY GASTOUNI About sixteen from thence also is another indifferent large Town called Gastouni which is about five Miles from the Sea and on a River which perhaps was the River Penea Thence continuing along the Coasts of the Morea twenty Miles further we came to Cotichi COTICHI where there is a Fishing Place called Pescharia which is a Lake fed and stored by the Sea where in July they catch abundance of Mullets to make Botargus and Salt-Fish There is such abundance of all sorts of Wild Fowl Ducks Teals Wild-Geese Pelicans c. resort thither as would bring much Profit in any Place but Turky were a Decoy made there Here we lay all Night in our Boat The next day we parted early and keeping still along the same Shore CONOPOLI we came to a Point about six Miles thence called Conopoli On the top of the Rock is a ruined Tower with the Rubbish of a Town about it but what it was formerly called I know not From the Foot of the Rock is a Spring of Hot Salt and Bituminous Water which runneth down into the Sea within a yard or two of its Source About it I observed plenty of Common Alexanders Cyclamen PLANTS or Sowbread Anagyris foetida then in flower which grows to a good big Shrub of a yard and half high whose Twigs are set with a large three-fold Leaf each of which are long and somewhat narrow of a deep green colour and of a strong stinking smell The Flowers also grow out in little bunches like the other Laburnum but larger and of a deeper yellow colour spotted also with black or Hare-colour'd Spots The outward Leaf is the shortest the next pair longer and the inmost longest all divided at the ends The Flower is succeeded by a long Cod like a French Bean filled at like distances with a Seed as big of a blue or purple colour and exceeding hard Staphys agria or Staves-acre not long come up from the Seeds A kind of Bryony not differing from the white above ground only the Leaves were spotted with white Spots Hence we had the Prospect of a large Plain along the Shore beyond us and behind us but a good way within the Land most part of it is covered with Pine-Trees Continuing yet six or seven Miles further along the same Coasts we came to another point called Cape Calogrea Cape CALOGREA where we were shewed a Well or Fountain called Durach-bey because dug by a famous Turkish Pirate of that Name By this are the Mouths of two Rivers near together or the same River emptying it self by two Mouths for our Mariners assured us they were distinct One of them very probably is the River Larissus of the Antients LARISSUS Fluv which distinguished the Provinces of Eleum and Dimaeum Near

return to a little creek at the mouth just within the Promontory of the Southern-Harbour and there stay till after Dinner In which time I went and climed up a Mountainous Rock hard by where I found many other curious Plants 1. Sage growing wild 2. Tragoriganum Creticum as some will have it but I esteem it Satureia or what we call in our Kitchins Winter-Savoury and that from the resemblance of smell and substance of the leaves which are not so thick and oyly as Tragoriganum as likewise Polium Roris marini foliis or leaves like Rose-mary After Dinner we put out to Sea but not without danger the Wind continuing still high and contrary After we had made six miles which is the length of the Bay which makes the Haven of Pola a storm beginning to rise we put in between the point and the Island Veruda which with the Land and some other such Scoglio's about it make a good harbour Here the Holy Virgin is worshipped with great Devotion by the name of Madonna di Veruda Her Church with the Convent belongeth to the Minime-Fryers The next day early we parted hence to pass a dangerous Gulph called the Quarner Thirty miles over It hath at the bottom to the North the Mountain Caldiera which often sends forth such gusts of Wind as are fatal to the Vessels that must pass it It s high ridges look a far off like an overgrown Cammel with a great bunch upon the back When we had passed about Twenty miles of the Thirty and had about Ten to the Mountains of Ossero we saw a great storm pursuing of us which overtook us about four miles from Shore but with such fury as made us immediately strike Sail it being an Hurricano or Whirl-wind that had almost overset the Gally before we could furl the Sails It was accompanied with such Thundring Lightning and Rain as if the Elements had conspired to our destruction The Sea also ran so high that we could neither Sail nor Row yet by Gods mercy and the help of the Rudder we were droven after an hours time although we could no way see the Land under the Mountains of Ossero and thence we rowed into Porto-longo which is on the North side of the Isle Unia In this Isle there is but one Village encompassed with a fertile soil containing in all about nine or ten miles in circuit abounding in Corn and Wine but the rest very rocky and barren Of Plants here are abundance such as I before named and over and above a Syderitis Angustifolia flore albo The next day we endeavoured to get out to Sea but finding the water too rough we turned into Porto-novo which is a little creek between the Mountains of Ossero After noon the weather proving better we set sail and passed between many little Islands which along those Coasts are numberless as Canigula and Sansio South of us in the Gulph Quarnerette which towards the Land hath the Mountains of Morlaca Towards the East San-Pietro in Limbo being two little Isles thorough which we passed making a good Harbour with a little Fort at the East-end of the most Northern of them Hence we left Selva with a pretty Town upon it to the South Opposite to which is L' Ulba which hath North-Port Saint Nicola at one end without any Town there but hath one about three miles distant Here groweth abundance of Samphire of which the Mariners gathered great quantity to boil and eat with Oyl and Vinegar Here I found a Plant with a Bulbous-root which sent out a stalk about half a foot high with a crest or crown of little small flowers striped with white and Cinnamon-colour I should have taken it for a Moly but that it had no smell and for an Asphodil had I found any leaves at the root Another like Samphire but that each leaf ended with a Pricket The next day we passed by many Rocks lying in a row South of us as Melada on which is a Town called Cestron Then Rap●ntello and some others beyond until at last as in a River between little Islands we arrived at Zara. ZARA Lib j. Fig II Zara is situated upon a slip of plain ground almost encompassed with the Sea Zara only the East-end is joyned to the Firm-Land of Dalmatia if I may call it joyned For there also is a ditch made from one Sea to the other which is well supplied with water at high Tides The Harbour is on the North-side and is well secured by the City which serves instead of a Mole to defend it from the South-winds there being no other that annoy it from the adjoyning Land It lieth in length East and West The entrance of the Port is West where it hath two round Bastions with Cannon mounted on them which saluted our Bailo as also did the Musketteers from the Walls and upon his arrival in the Port the Count and Captain of the Military-forces received him at his Landing They were cloathed in crimson Suits and Gowns made something like the Civilians Gowns at Oxon. The Bailo also was in a crimson sute but made after the French fashion These with the Militia conducted him to the Palace of the General of Dalmatia who resides there The East-side hath three Bastions and is defended by a strong Cittadel whose Fortification shews it had a good contriver and a great deal of industry to bring it to that perfection Its Fosses are hewed out of the hard Rocks which is the substance of the greatest part of the ground thereabouts and renders it very difficult to be mined Its Bastions Half-moons and Counterscarps are well countermined and mantled with hewen stone The end of the Town next the Cittadel hath three regular Bastions and is separate from it by a deep Fosse There is no Hill near it to command it from without So that it may pass for a strong Town as it is also the chief of Dalmatia The Military-Forces then consisted of eight Companies of Foot and three of Horse being for most part Morlachs Croats and other People of the Mountainous and Northern parts of Dalmatia Men of tall stature strong nimble and hardy especially the Morlachs who are used to the cold and barren Mountains called by that name extending themselves along those Coasts and subject to the Venetians They are inveterate enemies to the Turks and never spare any of them when they fall into their clutches Whensoever they make Parties to go pillage the Turks on their Borders still they return loaden with Booty We were by many credible persons assured that such was their strength as four of them would take a man on horse-back upon their shoulders and carry them both over the Streights and dangerous places of the Mountains even sometimes twenty or thirty paces at a time which hath been tried when some of their chief Officers have been to pass those Mountains Morlacus Lib j. Fig III. Their Habit is odd For Shoes they have only a piece of Leather

that particular and Authors disagreeing For my Companion setteth it down about Sixty Miles Peitro della Valle Ninety and our Country-man Mr. Sands precisely Sixscore and five Miles It looketh very high and Mountainous from Sea and sends down most prodigious gusts of wind LESBOS as I experienced returning from Smyrna Of Lesbos likewise he hath given a good description for it is much bigger then Scio and hath plenty of Corn Wine and Cattle Of the milk of which they make much Butter and Cheese but have little Trade Each of these Islands pay Eighteen Thousand pieces of Eight a year Carraeth to the Grand Signior Those that gather it at Scio make the heirs three years after the death of their Friends pay it They say also when a Greek changeth his habitation they make him pay a double Pole-Money one in the Country he left and another in that where he cometh to live unless they avoid it by some Artifice as by concealing their native place and true Name Naxia payeth Six Thousand Dollers Milo Three Thousand Paros and Ause as much Scyros Two Thousand Zea Seventeen Hundred for Carraeth and for Tenths Two Thousand Five Hundred Andros Four Thousand Five Hundred Carraeth and Six Thousand Eight Hundred for Tenths Negropont which is the greatest Island in the Archipelago payeth a Hundred Thousand Dollers for all its priviledges The tenths are paid to the Beyes and Vayvodes who are obliged out of them to keep a certain number of Gallies without any expence to the Grand Signior Smyrna maintains two Gallies Naxia Meteline Samos and Andros each of them one Scio two Micone and Seripho one and so the rest in proportion to their Abilities But to return to our Vessel at Tenedos This Island is about four or five Miles from the shore of Asia about Twenty Miles in Circuit and Truitful in Corn and Wine especially Muskatels great part of which is carried to Constantinople It hath a Town and a Castle which lieth on the North-end of it but regarding the Promontory Sigaeum towards the East now called Janizzari by the Turks it was taken by the Venetians in the War of Candia and retaken by the Turks by means of a good round Sum of Money given to the Treacherous Governour Near this place was a famous Sea-fight fought betwixt the Venetians and Turks with great loss on both sides though the Victory remained to the Venetians From our Ship at the South-end of Tenedos we discovered the top of that famous Mountain Ida TROY and in the same line upon the Asian shore vast Ruins of a City which we took to be the so much celebrated Troy and therefore we longed very much to see it nor had we therein our desires frustrated For Friday the Twentieth of August the wind holding still contrary or calm both Wood and Water was wanting to our Vessel and therefore the long Boat being sent ashore for recruits we closed with that opportunity of seeing the Valiant Trojans Country We landed in a plain about three Miles North of those Ruins which we saw from our Ship where digging in the sand I suppose the hidden Chanel of some rivolet the Sea men found fresh water This plain is in some places tilled and in some places neglected It beareth Corn Cotton and Sesami of which they make Oyl Cucumbers and Melons of several kinds as Water-Melons which the Italians call Anguria and another kind which they here call Zucchi I saw also in many places neglected Fig-trees and Almond-trees with Fruit upon them Here groweth also abundance of Oaks whereof I never saw any of the kind in England It agreeth something with the description Gerard giveth of the Cerris Majore Glande or the Holme-Oak with great Acorns but not well with his Figure It groweth to a large well proportion'd Tree with a fair top and large branches but whether it is good Timber or no I know not It s small twigs bear a fair leaf above as long again as broad broad at the bottom and ending in a sharp point snipped about the edges with deep sharp-pointed teeth like a great saw and of an Ashcolour somewhat downy It beareth an Acorn twice as big as our ordinary Oaks which cometh out of a deep cup that covereth half the length of it It is rough on the outside with a long flat and heavy substance which before the Acorn appeareth is like to those great excrescences that sometimes are seen in the spring upon our young sappy Oaks In this walk I saw other curious Plants as 1. Tragacantha PLANTS out of which Gumme Dragon issueth in some places 2. Pastinaca Echinifera Fabij Columni 3. Jacea Lutea Capite Spinoso 4. Tartonreina Massiliensium of two kinds Longifolio Latifolio 5. Papaver Caniculatum horned Poppies whose Flower is black at the bottom fomewhat higher of a deep red and by degrees end in a Golden Colour 6. Pancrasium in Flower 7. Verbascum Marinum laciniatis Folijs So that I cannot with Mr. Sands call this barren ground but neglected ' With these curiosities I entertained my self whilst the rest of our Company diverted themselves with the game they found in great plenty there as Hares red Partridges Quails Turtles and a Bird about the bigness of a Thrush the head and breast of a bright yellowish colour the back and wings of a greenish grey like a green Finch the beak and head formed like a Thrush and as fat as Hortulans in France and Italie and our Wheat-ears in England Another kind not much bigger but shaped like a Bittern with a long bill long legs and claws a crist of long Feathers on the Crown and of a speckled colour like an Hawke When we came near to this ruined City we saw abundance of broken Pillars of Marble and others parts of Walls and Fundations along the shore none standing upright nor whole but lying on the ground and many a good way in the Sea scaled by the weather and eaten by the Salt-winds that come from thence A little further is the mole of a Port yet remaining with a large and thick wall on the shore which doubtless was beautified with those many Marble Pillars that are now broken down all along under it The mouth is now stopped up with sand and remaineth very shallow I cannot with my Companion say That this was the Port of Troy so famous in Antiquity nor yet this City that Ilium or Troy whose Wars have been so Celebrated by the Unimitable Homer and Virgil nor the Antiquities there remaining to be of any elder date then the Romans although Bellonius is confident of it and Petro della Valle so wonderfully pleased himself with the thoughts of it that he fancied every great Tree a Hector or Achilles or an Aeneas and all the Briers and Bushes that pricked his shins their Armies and could not forbear crying out Hic Dolopum manus hic saevus tendebat Achilles Classibus hic locus hic acies certare solebant But