Escheator and other Officers to the great ease of all the Country in expedition of their Business Out of it are elected besides the two Knights of the Shire but two Members of Parliament and Chester only has the Right of Election CORNWAL the furthest County in the West of England is on all sides surrounded with the Sea except Eastward where the River Tamer parts it from Devonshire It s Length from East to West is about 70. miles and the broadest Part next to Devonshire 40. The Whole divided into nine Hundreds wherein 161 Parishes and 21 Market Towns The Country being for the most part but narrow you cannot expect here Rivers of any long Course The Tamer aforesaid is the most considerable next to which you have the Camel and the Fale Here the Air is pure and subtile but much subject to Winds and stormy Weather and more apt to preserve than to recover Health especially to Strangers The Spring is something backward here which makes the Harvest to be later than in the Eastern Parts but on the other side the Winter does prove milder The Country in general is hilly and rocky the Rocks being crusted over with a shallow Earth The Parts towards the Sea are the most fruitful both in Corn and Pasturage Which happens partly by the industrious manuring the Ground with a fruitful sort of Sand and a Sea-weed called Orewood The middle Parts except the Inclosures about Towns and Villages ly generally waste and open and serve chiefly for Summer Cattel But as to Game both for the Hawk and the Hound here 's great store of it One Thing it excels all other Counties in and that is its Tin Mines the Tin whereof goes beyond any in Europe for fineness Here is also found in some Rocks a sort of precious Stone called the Cornish Diamond shaped and polished by Nature and some of them as big as a Walnut but indeed not so hard as the right Diamond For Fishing of Pilchards this is the Place the Time from July to November When the Sea does so swarm of them that enough can be spared to supply France Spain and Italy with them in great Stores the smoaked one being called Fumados in Italy where they pass for a great Dainty In Mounts Bay is the famous Hill called S. Michael's Mount severed from the main Land by a sandy Plain which at Ebb-water may be passed over on foot A Hill that proudly raises it self to a great eminence the top of it being a small Plain the greatest part on 't taken up by an old Fort. Nigh unto the said Bay is a strong Rock called Main Amber which lieth as it were mounted on others of a smaller size with so equal a Counterpoise that it may be stirred but not moved out of its place And in S. Cleere's Parish there are upon a Plain 6 or 8 Stones such as are upon Salisbury Plain Which like them too will be mistaken in their telling so that when they are told over again they will be found either more oâ— less than before At Boskenna is a Trophy erected 18 Stone placed round and pitched 12 foot from each other with another in the Center far biggeâ— than the rest And in many Places hereaboutâ— are Pieces of Armour both for Horse and Man digged out of the Ground Among Sea-faring Men here are besideâ— the Harbours two Places of chief note â— viz. the Lizard Point and the Lands End The first is the furthest part south-South-West of the Goon hilly Downs a pretty large Tract 〈◊〉 Ground shooting forth from the main Land into the South Sea The Lands End is the furthest Point Westward of Cornwal and consequently of England Lanceston the County Town bears from London west-south-West-South-West and is distant there from 170 miles Viz. from London to Salisbury 70 miles for the particulars of which 〈◊〉 refer you to Wiltshire from thence to Shaftâ— bury 18 to Sherburn 12 more to Axminster 19 to Honiton 7 more thence to Exeter 12. and to Lanceston 32 more This Town is seated on the banks of a small River called Kensey and not far from its falâ— into the Tamer A Town of good Trade anâ— well inhabited whose Market on Saturdayâ— is well frequented and served with Provisions Here are held the Assises for this County The other Market Towns are Saltash Sat. Foway Sat. East-Lowe Sat. Padstow Sat. Grampound Sat. Tregny Sat. Helston Sat. Iiskerd Sat. Bâ—dmin Sat. Stratton Tue. Truro Wedn. Sat. Penrin Wedn. Frid. Sat. S. Ives Wedn. Frid. S. Colomb Thu. Falmouth Thu. Market-Jew Thu. Penzance Thu. Listhiel Frid. S. Germans Frid. Camelford Frid. Falmouth the most-frequented Place in these Parts by Mariners deserves a particular Description First it is called Falmouth from its Situation at the Mouth of the River Fale and that in a fertile Tract of Ground called Roseland which contains several Parishes and feeds great Flocks of Sheep The Haven before it is so safe and so capacious that the Town has thriven of late very much upon it the Creeks being coasted with steep Shores and so large withal that 100 Sail of Ships may safely ride at Anchor Besides it lieth more in the way of Trade to wind-driven Ships than Plimouth in Devonshire And over against it is the Castle called Pendennis erected for the better security of this Coast by King Henry VIII But that which adds much of late to the Reputation of Falmouth is his Majesty's setling of a Sea-Post here for Spain and Portugal whereby all immediate Correspondence with France is interrupted at least during this present War and the Benefit of it cut off from that Kingdom The Groyn a Sea-Port Town of Gallicia in Spain is the Place appointed to receive our Packetâ— there from thence to be distributed through all Places of Correspondence both in Spain and Portugal Lastly this Town is of some note for giving the Title of Viscount to the Duke of Northumberland Further in the County Northward lies Truro a Town of good note seated in the middle oâ— two Streams that run into Falmouth Haven and giving the Title of Baron to the Right Honourable Charles Bodvile Roberts Earl of Radnor Penrin another Town of note lies something nearer but to the Northwest of Falmouth on a Creek of Falmouth Haven Penzance and Market-Jew stand over against one another West and East of Mounts Bay the first a good traded Town the other but inconsiderable Eastward you will find Fouay East and Weâ— Iowe upon the South Sea and on the North or Irish Sea the Havens of Padstow and S. Ives The rest of the Market Towns are up in the Country This County which formerly was part of the ancient Kingdom of the West Saxons and the Inhabitants together with those of Devonshire Known among the old Romans by the Name oâ— Danmonii is now in the Diocese of Exeter Out of it are elected besides the two Knightâ— of the Shire no less than 42 Members to sit iâ— Parliament Viz. two out of
the Prince of Orange's Forces coming this way from the West Which two days after was followed by his Desertion of that Place and soon after by the Desertion of the Crown and Government Moreover this City has been for several Ages honoured with the Title of an Earldom 1. in the persons of Patrick and William D'Evreux successively 2. In two Williams surnamed Long-Espèe the first a base Son of King Henry II. by Rosamond 3. In two Nevils both Richards by their Christen-names 4. In the person of George Duke of Clarence who married Isabel Daughter of Richard Earl of Warwick 5. In Edward eldest Son of King Richard III. 6. In Margaret Daughter of George Duke of Clarence created Countess of Salisbury by King Henry VIII And lastly in the Family that now injoy's it the first being Robert Cecil Lord of Essendine and Viscount Cranborn created Earl of Salisbury by King James I. Anno 1605. From whom is descended the present Earl James Cecil Lastly this City is a Place well inhabited and frequented injoying a good Trade And its Markets on Tuesdays and Saturdays are very considerable for all sorts of Provisions The other Market-Towns are Marlborough Sat. Malmsbuâ—y Sat. Chippenham Sat. Werminster Sat. Troubridge Sat. Cricklade Sat. Bradford Mund. Swindon Mund. Calne Tue. Auburn Tue. Lavington Wedn. Wilton Wedn. Highworth Wedn. Devizes Thu. Hindon Thu. Wooten-Basset Thu. Downton Frid. Amersbury Frid. Westbury Frid. Mere Marmister Among which Marlborough or Marleburgh is next to Salisbury the most considerable Town in this County The Town called anciently Cunetio in Antonine's Itinerarium as the River Kennet was upon which it stands but by the Normans in whose Time this Town revived out of the Ruins of the old it was named Marleburgh as being seated in a chalky Soil which in some Places is still called by the name of Marl. A Town stretched out from East to West upon the ascent of a Hill watered by the Kennet not far from the head of it and having the conveniency both of a Forest and Chase in its Neighbourhood the first called Savernake-Forest and the other Aldburn Chase It had once a Castle belonging unto John surnamed Sans Terre who afterwards was King of England The Castle still famous in our Law-Books for a Parliament there held in the Reign of King Henry III. in which were made the Statutes from hence called of Marleburgh for the suppressing of Tumults But King Charles 1. at this Coronation made it yet more notable in making it the Honour as it was the Neighbour of James Lord Ley Lord Treasurer created by that King Earl of Marlbourough Anno 1625. Which Title continued in three Persons more of his Name and Family and since the late Revolution was conferred by our present King upon the Right Honourable John Churchill the present Earl of Marlborough This Town has suffered very much by the frequent Misfortune of Fire under which it groans to this day Near unto this Place is a Village called Rockley from divers Stones like Rocks pitcht up on end Among which there sometimes breaks forth a violent Stream of Water called Hungersbourn by the Country-people by whom 't is reputed as the fore-runner of a Dearth Malmesbury another good Town stands in the north-North-West Parts of the County pleasantly seated on a Hill near the Spring of the River Avon over which it has six Bridges being almost incircled with that River Chippenham and Bradford are also seated on the Avon and Troubridge near it Amersbury or Ambresbury commonly pronounced Ambsbury on the other Avon near the Stone-henge and but 6 miles North of Salisbury Upon which River near the Confines of Hampshire you will find also the Town called Downton or Duncton Calne is situate on a River so called which runs from East to West into the Bristol Avon This Town is noted for the Provincial Synod held here in the Year 977 to determine the hot Disputes in those Times between the Monks and the Priests concerning Celibacy But whilst they were debating the Matter in hand the Convocation-house suddenly fell down by which Fall several were slain and many cruelly wounded Wilton is seated between two Rivers the Willy Northward and the Nadder Southward From the first it took its Denomination as the whole County from Wilton Once the chief Town thereof and a Bishops See honoured with the Residence of nine several Bishops But by translating the See to Salisbury and carrying thither withall the Thorough-fare into the West-Country which before was here it fell by little and little to decay So that it is at present but a mean Town Yet still a Borough-Town the Place where the Knights of the Shire are chosen and where the Sheriff keeps his monthly County-Courts Werminster of old Verlucio a Town in former Time of very good account is seated at the Springs of the River Willy otherwise called Willybourn Westbury and Devizes are two Borough-Towns that is such Towns as fend Burgesses to Parliament The first situate on the Broke a small River that falls into the Avon Devizes at the very head of another Stream bearing the Name of the Town which likewise do's empty it self into the Avon I pass by the rest as Inconsiderable to take notice of Clarendon a fine spacious Park lying near to and Eastward of Salisbury 'T is seated upon a Hill on which stand twenty Groves severally inclosed and each a mile in compass Adorned in Times past with a Royal House which in process of time is falnto ruin But more remarkable for that in the Reign of Henry the Second Anno 1164 here was made a certain Recognition and Record of the Customs and Liberties of the Kings of England before the Prelates and Peers of the Kingdom for the avoiding Dissentions between the Clergy the Judges and Barons of the Râ—â—lm Which Act was called The Constitutions of Clarendon whereof so many as the Pope approved have been set down in the Tomes of the Councils and the rest omitted But that which has added more lustre to Clarendon is its being Dignify'd with the Title of an Earldom first in the person of Edward Hyde sometime Lord Chancellour of England who was created Viscount Cornbury in Oxfordshire and Earl of Clarendon by King Charles II Anno 1661. Upon whose Death at Rouen in Normandy Dec. 19th 1674 he was succeeded in his Title by his eldest Son Henry Hyde the present Earl of Clarendon To conclude this County which formerly was Part of the Kingdom of the West-Saxons and its Inhabitants part of the Belgae as the Romans called them is now in the Diocese of Salisbury Out of it are chosen besides the two Knights of the Shire no less than 32 Members to fit in Parliament Viz. two out of each of these following Towns New Sarum or Salisbury Wilton Downton Hindon Westbury Heytesbury Calne the Devizes Chippen ham Malmesbury Cricklade Great Bedwin Lurgershal Old Sarum Wootton Basset and Marlborough But we must not omit the famous Caves that ly in
Bishops See since the Reign of Henry VIII For as it is no plausible Place either for health or pleasure so it stands out of the way for Trade Yet it shews two handsom Streets a large Market-Place and a fair Parish Church besides the Abbey Which last from a Monastery founded by Wolpher the Mercian King is now become a Cathedral And from that Monastery dedicated by him to St. Peter This Town formerly known by the Name of Medanshede came to be called Peterburgh or Peterborough Dignifyâ—d with the Title of an Earldom in the person of Henry Mordant the present Earl of Peterborough devolved to him from his Father John Lord Mordant created Earl of Peterborough by King Charles I. Anno 1627. Oundle is pleasantly seated on the Banks of the Nen over which it has two Bridges A well built and uniform Town beautified with a fair Church a free School and an Alms-house Nigh unto Oundle Northwards and upon the same River stands Fotheringhay-Castle invironed on all sides with pleasant Meadows Noted for that here Mary Queen of Scots was beheaded Thrapston Higham-Ferrers and Wellingborow ly all three upon the Nen the first two on the Eastern the last on the Western Banks and each of them with a Bridge over the River Higham-Ferrers has a Free-School for the Education of Youth and an Alms house for the Relief of poor people and was anciently strengthned with a Castle whose Ruins are yet to be seen Wellingborow pleasantly seated upon the Ascent of a Hill is a large and well inhabited Town injoying a good Trade beautified with a fair Church and having the Convieniency besides of a Free School Not far from Rothwell or Rowel is Naseby which is said to stand on the highest Ground in England near which the Avon and the Nen two considerable Rivers have their Spring-heads A noted Town for the Battel fought here June 14th 1645 where the Kings Forces commanded by Prince Rupert were totally routed by General Fairfax Towcester situate in a Valley and on the Banks of a small River that empty's it self in the Ouse is a Place of good Antiquity Cambden takes it for the ancient Tripontium which took its Name from 3 Bridges the Roman Port-way which in many places between it and Stony-Stratford shews it self being cut through by three Streams or Channels which the Rivulet there divides it self into About the Year 917. it was so strongly fortified as to resist the furious Assaults of the Danes At present 't is but a small Town beautified however with a fine Church Near this Place Eastward is Grafton a Road-Town in this part of Northamptonshire with a fine Park adjoyning to it and a Mannor-house of great Antiquity most part whereof was burnt and pulled down in the long Intestine War Anno 1643. Memorable for the Marriage here consummated betwixt Edward IV. and the Lady Grey the first King oâ— England since the Conquest that married his Subject This was the ancient Seat of the Family de Wideville Earls of Rivers And Richard the last of the male Line dying Anno 1490. did by his Will bequeath it amongst other Lands to Thomas Grey Marquess of Dorset In which Name it continued till Henry VIII with whom it was exchanged for other Lands in Leicestershire and so has ever since continued in the Crown Of late become of more remark for giving the Title of Duke to his Grace Henry Fitz-Roy created Baron of Sudbury Viscount Ipswich and Earl of Euston Anno 1672 and Duke of Grafton five years after Brackley a Town of Note when it was in a manner the Staple Town in the County for Wool is seated near the Spring of the Ouse upon the edge of the County towards Buckinghamshire It contains two Parish-Churches and had formerly a Colledge now made use of for a Free-School Daventry and Kettering are seated each of 'em upon a Rivulet that falls into the Nen. The first a great Road-Town from London to the North-West Counties and from thence hither The last North-East from that is delightfully seated on an Ascent and has a Sessions-House for the Justices of Peace of the County who sometimes assemble here Rockingham a small Town is seated on the Weland A Town of note in former Time for its Castle long since demolished Lastly this County together with Rutland make up the Diocese of Peterborough In the Time of the Saxons it made part of the Kingdom of Mercia and its Inhabitants in the Romans Time part of the Coritani Out of it are chosen besides the two Knights of the Shire seven Members of Parliament Viz. 2 out of Northampton 2 out of Peterborough 2 out of Brackley and 1 out of Higham-Ferrers CHAP. XIII Of Northumberland Nottinghamshire Oxfordshire and Rutland Northumberland NORTHVMBERLAND a Maritime County and the furthest North in England is bounded on the East by the German Ocean on the West by Cumberland and the Cheviot Hills which part it from Scotland Northward by the River Twede which divides it also from Scotland and Southward by the Bishoprick of Durham from which severed in part by the River Tine It s Form is triangular contains in Length from North to South about 40 long Miles and in Breadth from East to West at the broadest 30. The Whole divided into six Wards wherein 460 Parishes and but 6 Market-Towns The Air of this County is sharp and piercing in Winter and sometimes troubled with deep Snows and pinching Frosts sutable to its Climate But yet 't is nothing near so sharp as the People And by my late Experience here wet Weather is not so sensible and searching as it is in Middlesex 'T is possible the warm Breaths that continually come out of its numberless Colepits helps with the Vapours of the Sea to take off the rawness of a cold dampish Air. For the Soil as this County is nearly related to Scotland so it is one of the worst Counties in England being for the most part rough and hilly and hard to be manured Yet in some Parts chiefly towards the Sea it is fertile enough But the greatest Riches of this Country lies in the Bowels of the Earth full of Coal-mines Which supply with Coals not only this Country where that Fewel is always bought at very easy rates but a good Part of England besides and London particularly for whose Use many hundred Sail of Ships have yearly from hence their Loading The Coal-Pits made use of to get up this Treasure are all square commonly 7 or 8 foot in diameter and timbered from top to bottom some 30 some 40 more or less but few above 50 fadoms deep A great Depth for Workmen to go and rake a Livelyhood And yet here is a Legion of such Men bred and born to it that spend most of their Life in this Land of Darkness in continual Danger besides that of the Rope of being crushed below by a Thrust sometimes in Danger of Water and in some places of Fire The Way to go down these
Pits and to come up is by the help of a Rope one end whereof being made into a Loop the Workman gets a Leg and Knee into it as far as the very Hip. Thus hugging the Rope with one Arm his Life wrapt up with it down he goes while the Rope turns about an Engine made for that purpose If the Rope fails as sometimes it does through Carelesness there 's an end of the Man and of the Conveyance By a Thrust is meant the fall of some Earth or great Stones whereby 't is the ill fate of some to be crushed as it is of others to be drowned by a sudden Irruption of Waters from an old Waste or otherwise But some Pits at Sunderland in the Bishoprick of Durham are subject besides to Fire-Damps So they call an Inflammation of the Air in those subterraneous Parts which being more than ordinary affected with sulphurous matter are sometimes apt to catch fire and then all go's to wrack It breaks out like a Thunder-bolt carries all away with it higher than the Pits Mouth and that with a dismal noise as it were with a crack of Thunder In this Case one might compare the inflamed Sulphur to Gun-powder the Coal-pit to a great Gun and what it brings up with it to Bullets it comes up with such a force But when this happens the Workmen foresee it by their Candles burning blue and blazing more than ordinary Whereupon they lay themselves flat upon the Ground and let the Meteor work it self above it But this is too deep a piece of Geography for me to insist upon I leave it therefore to those Men of deep reaches who live upon the Spot in order first to take a View of Newcastle the chief Place of this County Newcastel for distinctions sake called Newcastel upon Tine to difference it from another Town of that Name in Staffordshire bears from London North-by-West and is reckoned to be distant from it 212 miles Viz. 200 from London to Durham for the particulars whereof I refer you to my Description of Durham and 12 more from Durham to Newcastle This Town is seated on the North-Bank of the River Tine about 7 miles from its fall into the Sea Over the River it has a fair Stone-Bridge leading to Gateshead in the Bishoprick of Durham with an Iron-Gate upon it which parts the two Counties It stands high and low part upon a steep Hill and part in the bottom on 't near the River The Streets upon the Ascent are so very steep that they stand like so many Ladders And yet both Men and Horses are so used to 'em that they make little of it either with or without a Load The Houses are most of Stone some Timber and a few Brick-houses In short it is a Place of that extent as to contain four large Parishes with as many Churches The Whole incompassed with a Wall and fortified with a Castle but neglected and going to ruin Built by Robert Son to William the Conquerour from whence this Town formerly called Monk-Chester took the Name of Newcastle Among the other publick Buildings of this Place the Key next to the River the Town-House â—ard by it the Custom-house upon Sandy-Hill and S. Nicholas Church in the midst of the Town are the most Remarkable Ships of good Burden come up to the very Key as â—ar as the Bridge though the Newcastle-â—leet seldom comes higher than Sheales near â—he River's Mouth Under the Town-house which 〈◊〉 no mean Structure is the Exchange or â—eeting Place for Merchants Before this â—ouse in the Market-Place stood lately a â—ew brazen Statue the Image of the late â—ing James on horseback Which soon after is Abdication was suddenly pulled down by â—e Forces then quartered in Town to the â—reat grief of many devout Jacobites in those â—arts who reverently paid to the Image the â—onour they retained for the Original S. Niâ—olas Church stands very lofty on the top of Hill and looks more like a Cathedral than Parish Church with a fair Steeple of curious â—rchitecture But Newcastle do's not glory so much in all â—is as it do's in the great Trade it drives â—oth by Sea and Land for all Commodities â—somuch that one may well call it the Bristol 〈◊〉 the North it being the wealthiest as it is 〈◊〉 most trading Place in the whole Northern â—ract 'T is true nothing has made it thrive so â—uch as the Coal-Trade being surrounded â—s it is with Coal-Mines and blessed with â—e Conveniency of a navigable River for â—e Transportation of so necessary and usefull Commodity For the Carrying on of this Trade they have such Priviledges as might seem to some people exorbitant No Owner of Coals can load his Ship with his own Commodity but it must be done by a Member of a Company they have for that purpose called the Company of Fitters and every Fitter has six pence allowed him for every Newcastle Chaldron that go's out which makes up near upon two of London Measure The Town moreover takes 3 pence a Chaldron as a Duty besides 12 pence a Chaldron to the King paid at the Custom-house To conclude Newcastle is a County of it self that is has the Priviledge of governing it self independently from the rest of the County Of some note besides for giving the Title of Duke to his Grace Henry Cavendish the present Duke of Newcastle Whose Father William Cavendish was created first Earl afterwards Marquess of Newcastle by King Charles the first and in the Year 1664. Duke of Newcastle Earl of Ogle c. by Charles II. It has two Markets a Week viz. on Tuesdays and Saturdays both very considerable for all sorts of Provisions but particularly abounding with Cods and Salmon in their proper Season The other Market-Towns are Barwick Sat. Alnewick Sat. Hexam Tue. Morpeth Wedn. and Weller Thu. Barwick is seated at the mouth of the River Twede over which it has a fair Bridge supported by no less than 14 or 15 Arches But as it stands on the North side of the River by the Bounds of Northumberland it ought rather to be counted in Scotland than England And because it has been in the hands of the English from the Reign of Edward IV therefore in all Acts of Parliament and Royal Proclamations wherein this Town is concerned Barwick upon Twede is always named by it self as a distinct Part of this Realm and of Northumberland by consequence However as it is so near a Neighbour to this County I am unwilling to deviate from the Method of all Geographers whose way is to bring it under this Head as if it were a part of Northumberland In short Barwick by its Situation is a Place of good Strength being almost surrounded with Water what with the Sea and what with the River But it is fortified besides with good Walls and a Castle besides other Fortifications The Occasion of it was its being a Frontire-Town sometimes possessed by the Scots and sometimes by the English before these two