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A52618 An account of several late voyages & discoveries to the south and north towards the Streights of Magellan, the South Seas, the vast tracts of land beyond Hollandia Nova &c. : also towards Nova Zembla, Greenland or Spitsberg, Groynland or Engrondland, &c. / by Sir John Narborough, Captain Jasmen Tasman, Captain John Wood, and Frederick Marten of Hamburgh ; to which are annexed a large introduction and supplement, giving an account of other navigations to those regions of the globe, the whole illustrated with charts and figures. Narbrough, John, Sir, 1640-1688.; Tasman, Abel Janszoon, 1603?-1659.; Wood, John, Captain.; Martens, Friedrich, 1635-1699.; Robinson, Tancred, Sir, d. 1748. 1694 (1694) Wing N154; ESTC R18669 230,732 472

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Valley in a gully of Rocks it bears North-north-west from the lower Rock that we called Peckets Well is a mile up the River within a Bow-shot of the salt Water 't is in a gully the Land in these Valleys has very green and sweet Grass and abundance of wild Pease small Nut-galls growing on the Bushes but in no great quantity and but few Bushes Salt may be made here for on the Shore-side and on the Rocks I gathered several handfuls of good Salt March 25. Gentlemen You are by me desired to take notice that this Day I take possession of this Harbour and River of Port Desier and of all the Land in this Country on both Shores for the use of his Majesty King Charles the Second of Great Britain and his Heirs God save our King and fired three Ordnance Saturday March 26. Wind at West a stout Gale I stood to the Northward this Morning at six a Clock when the Sun appeared above the East Horizon the Moon set in the West-horizon being eclipsed at London at Elevan a Clock ten minutes in the Forenoon but here at six a Clock thirty minutes past which gives four hours forty minutes difference of time between the Meridian of London and the Meridian of Cape Blanco which Cape lies in the Latitude of 47 d. 20 m. South on the South-east Coast of America where I saw this Eclipse 70 degrees in Longitude to the Westward of the Meridian of London by this Observation I could not see the whole Eclipse the Heavens being clouded I find Cape Blanco by my account of Sailing to lie in the Longitude of 69 d. 16 m. to the Westward of the Meridian of London If the Moon had not been clouded I might have been exact in the Longitude but I presume my Account is not much out Cape Blanco lies in the Latitude of 47 d. 20 m. South and in Longitude from the Lizard West 61 d. 56 m. and in Meridian distance from the Lizard West 1014 Leagues 1 Mile 6 1● Port Desier in America lies in the Latitude of 47 d. 48 m. South and in Longitude from the Lizard West 61 d. 57 m. Meridian distance from the Lizard West 1015. Leagues 2 Miles 6 10 Penguin Island or the plentiful Isles Latitude 47 d. 55 m. South and in Longitude from the Lizard West 61 d. 57 m. Meridian distance from the Lizard West 1014. Leagues 2 Miles Variation of the Compass here is Easterly 17 d. 30 m. April 1. The Sweepstakes off of Seal's Bay in the Latitude of 48 d. 10 m. South on the Coast of Patagonia Saturday April 2. Fair Weather this Morning Wind at North-north-west a fine gale I filled at Day-light and steered away South-south-west and South and by West by my Compass as the Coast lies I sailed along in twenty Fathom-water black Sand distant from the shore near three Leagues this forenoon at nine a Clock I saw a small flat Island to the Westward of me about a League off the Land it lies in the Latitude of 48 d. 40 m. South the Land against it is high in large Hills and some round copling tops two Leagues more to the Southward the Land is low in a great Plain and a Beach by the Sea-side but the shore against this Island is rocky I was two Leagues East from the flat Island and had twenty three fathom black Sand I haled close in for the shore and sail'd within five Miles of it all along from this Island to Port St. Julian I sounded as I sail'd along and had 18 or 20 fathom fine black Sand the Land is low in a Valley the Sea-shore is a Beach here and there a Rock it is in a long Beach for four Leagues after you are to the Southward of the Flat-Island one League the shore lies south-fourth-South-fourth-west and North-north-east at the south-South-end of this Beach in-land are high round Hills but at the Sea-side is a steep white Cliff of an indifferent heighth with a black streak in it over the Cliff the Hill rounds up to the top having some small black Bushes growing on the side no Wood or Tree seen In this Bay is Port St. Julian the Harbour's mouth is in the middle of the Bay but you cannot see it without for one Point shutting in the other you must send your Boat in to discover the Harbour at Low-water and the Bar without for 't is a barred Harbour the Land in the Country over Port St. Julian on the West-side is high copling round Hills like blunt Sugar-loaves on the top ●is the highest Land I saw in all the Country and there are no such Hills besides on the Coast the Land is plain to the South without any Hill as far as we could see at this time this Afternoon it proved a Calm I anchored in the Bay before St. Julian in twelve fathom Water black oary Land the Harbour's mouth bearing West-south-west of me about two Leagues off I sent in my Boat to discover the Harbour and see if the Pink was there which returned to Night at six a Clock my Lieutenant told me there was a safe Harbour and Water enough for a bigger Ship but no Pink nor any sign of her having been there now I despaired of ever seeing her more after my hopes were frustrated here nevertheless I doubted not the success of my Voyage though the Company thought 't would be dangerous being a lone Ship a stormy Sea to sail in and unknown Coasts to search out and if we should happen to run aground any where could expect no relief these suspicions I soon put out of their Heads by telling them of the great Riches of the Land and that Captain Drake went round the World in one Ship when in those days there were but ordinary Navigators and was it for us to question our good fortune who beyond Comparison are better Seamen if we would put our selves in Action and for me I would expose no Man to more danger than my self in the Attempt Calm to Night I rode fast a small Tide running where I rode the Water ebb'd near three fathom perpendicular it is near nine Leagues from the Flat Island to Saint Julian South-south-west and North-north-east as the shore lies The Mouth of Port Saint Julian in Latitude 49 d. 10 m. South and in Longitude from the Lizard 63 d. 10 m. and in Meridian distance from the Lizard West 1030 Leagues by an Amplitude here the Compass has varied 16 d. 10 m. East Wednesday April 13. Fair Weather Wind at West a small gale Frosty and cold Air no sign of the Pink I went ashore and haled the Seyne on the East-side at the first of the Flood we caught five hundred Fishes as big as large Mullets and much like them grey and full of Scales some as big as a Man's Leg we caught them all in four hours time returned aboard and divided them among the whole Ship 's Company they eat admirably well many good Muscles lie on the Rocks
firma not far from Cartagean The most Gold in all the Land of America is in Chile as what is known at this time But I find the Spaniards have but little knowledge of the Land all along to the Southward from Baldavia to the Streights Mouth as far as I can understand by them excepting at the Island of Castro There they have a Settlement and on the Main against Castro at a place called Orsono At these two places they have good store of Gold and there are many Indians but farther Southerly than Castro they know nothing of the Country or of the Sea-Coast Castro lieth in the Latitude of 43 d. 30 m. the South end of the Island and the North end lies in the Latitude of 41 d. 40 m. It is a fine Island and near the Main there grows good Wheat on it The Spaniards are but few in number there but there are many Indians and those too valiant and of a large stature but not Giants as I understand These Indians have Wars with the Spaniards and will not suffer them to search the Country for Wealth A Ship brought from Lima Provisions for the City of Baldavia and the Forts and Cloaths and Ammunition and Wines and Tobacco and Sugar and she lades away from Baldavia Gold and Bezoar Stone and red Wool c. and Indian Slaves that the Spaniards take here in these parts they carry them to Peru and make perpetual Slaves of them there and the Indians of Peru they bring hither and make Soldiers of them against the Chile-Indians of which Soldiers there are many hereabout whom my Men saw when they were at the Fort. There were about thirty Indians and Musteses Soldiers there and some sixteen white Men who were Officers Moreover the Spaniards make use of the Peru-Indians to Trade with the Chile-Indians for Gold although they are at Wars For they of Chile without doubt are desirous of Trade whereby they may furnish themselves with Knives and Scissers and Combs c. which are wanting among them as also with Arms that many times by stealth are sold to them although they be prohibited Traders will be dealing so as they can get benefit they do not consider the future danger by its means provided it miss them at the present I asked them how far it was to Baldavia they answered me three Leagues and that the Boats could go up to it and that it was situated by the side of the River and the Plains and that there were five great Ordnances in a Fort to command the City and that there were one thousand Inhabitants in the City of all sorts of Men Women and Children I asked him if there were any passage by Land from Baldavia to the other parts of Chile they said there was and they sent every Week but they went with good Guards to go secure from the Indians Then I asked them if they built Shipping here they said no but at Velperrazeo they did build great Ships I asked them who lived in the Island of Mocha they said Indians many Men and Women and that they were Poco amigo ' s to them in English they were but small Friends to the Spaniards There are many Sheep Goats Hogs and Hens which the Indians will sell for Hatchets Knives and Beads As to the Island of St. Mary the Spaniards are Masters of it and have a Fort on it with five Guns but few Spaniards live there it is plentiful of Provisions as Hogs and Sheep and Corn and Potatoes and they said there is some Gold that the Indians have on the Island of Mocha but they will not part from it The Spaniards did not care for answering me to such things as I would gladly have heard of these parts for I laid the Draught of all that Coast on the Table before them and asked them who lived at this Port and who lived at that at some places they would say the Spaniards lived there and at some the Indians but they did not care to answer my desires but frame other Discourses to wave mine I find that they are but little acquainted on the Coasts to the Southward of Baldavia they say they have Spaniards living on the Island of Castro and that much Corn grows there more especially European Wheat and that on the Main there are Spaniards living at a place called Orsono which is against Castro and that there they have Gold and there are many Indians I asked him if Shipping could go in between Castro and the Main they could not tell me or would not but they said some Ships went thither which come from Lima with Furniture for the People The Anchoring at the Island of Mocha is on the North-north-east part of it in a sandy Bay in eight Fathom Water near the Shore a North-east Wind is the worst Wind for the Road on the South-side of Mocha there lies a ledg of Rocks and some broken Rocks on that part of the Island scattered from the Shore The Anchoring at the Island of St. Mary is on the North-side in a fine sandy Bay in eight or nine Fathom Water a fine Birth from the Shore the North-north-west Wind is the worst Wind for that Road. There is Wood and fresh Water on both the Islands as the Spaniards report The Tides are but mean on the Coast and the Flood comes from the Southward and rise about eight or nine feet Water The Island of Mocha lies in the Lat. of 38 d. 30 m. South The Island of St. Mary lies in the Lat. of 37 d. 14 m. South They have Apples and Plums and Pears and Olives Apricocks Peaches Quinces Oranges Lemmons and many other Fruits There are also Musk-Melons and water-Melons c. These Spaniards report it to be the finest Country in the whole World and that the people live with the greatest Luxury of any on the Earth they enjoy their Health with so much delight and have so much Wealth and Felicity that they compare the Land to Paradise abounding above other Countries with all Delights for Mankind I saw a good Testimony of the healthiness of the Country for these four Men who are on Board are as well-complexioned Men as ever I saw in my days and the People a-shore both Men and Women of the Spaniards are well-complexioned People of a ruddy colour and seem to be mighty healthy Some of the Men are very corpulent and look as if they came from a very plentiful Country where there is great store of Provisions and abundance of Gold and Silver December 17. 1670. There went a-shore in the Boat eighteen of my best Men I had in the Ship and Men of good Observation to inspe● into matters of this Concern which I had acquainted them with as touching the manner of the Harbour and the Fortifications the Spaniards have and the disposition of the People and that it was my whole desire to have Conference with the Natives of the Country that are at Wars with the Spaniards if by
out of a Lake of fresh Water in a Valley amongst the Hills we made the Boat fast and marched all into the Land five or six Miles being stop'd from going further by Hills rising very steep and Mountains and impenetrable Woods we made several Fires but could not see any sign of them so far in the Land No Beast or other Creature to be seen many small streams of fresh Water come running from the snowy Mountains with great Falls from the steep Rocks we looked in many places of the Earth and in the streams of Water for Gold c. but found none nor any other Metal of Mineral Here grow on the Bushes many small red Berries much like Hurts very good to eat the Grass-Land is very loose and Boggy the Rocks are a kind of white Marble the Trees like those at Port Famen here are small Pepper-trees To Night I got on Board Calm Weather I rode fast with the Ship Here ends Sir John Narbrough's Manuscript Journal which we shall continue home to England from the MS Diary taken by Sir John's ingenious Lieutenant Nathaniel Pecket Wednesday January 11. Fair Weather Wind variable from South-east to South-west This Morning we made the best of our way to get into Port Famen Here we had Fishes from the Shore to Fish our Main-mast At twelve a Clock we Anchored in nine Fathom Waaer This place afforded what we wanted as very good large Trees for Fishes good Water good wild Fowl good fish like Mullets and large Smelts here we fitted our Ships Masts and Rigging as well as we could Careen'd her and filled our Casks with good fresh Water and took as much Wood aboard as we thought fit January 16. Fair Weather and little Wind Westerly This Morning the Lieutenant was ordered to go up with the Boat in Segars River as high as he could with convenience and to see for Indians He went up about nine Miles but could nor get higher with the Boat by reason of the Trunk-timber and shoaliness in the Water So I landed and went up two Miles by Land to see for Indians but I could not see any not any thing worth the Observation How far the River runs up I know not for I saw not the end of it so I returned a-board again January 29. Fair Weather and little Wind at south-South-west This Morning the Captain went over with the Pinnace to the South-shore to see for Indians and if there were and Harbour for Shipping short of Port Famen This day came an Indian to the Point of Port Famen and made a Fire and I went a-shore to see what he had but he had neither Bow nor Arrow nor any thing else to the value of the Farthing I would have had him come a-board with me but he would not as far as I understood by the Signs he made to me he had been a slave to some other Indians and had run away from them and was travelling home Tuesday January 31. Fair Weather Wind variable This Evening the Captain came a-board again having been over on the South-shore to see for an Harbour but could find none nor see any Indians Saturday February 4. Fair Weather Wind at West by North. This Morning at four a Clock we set Sail for Port Famen and at eleven a Clock we were short of Fresh-water Bay and at six a Clock in the Evening we Anchored in twelve Fathom Water in a fine sandy Bay about four Leagues to the Northward of Freshwater Bay February 5. Fair Weather but very much Wind at South-west and West-south-west This Morning the Captain sent me to Freshwater Bay to see for Indians but I saw none there so I returned again aboard February 7. Fair Weather Wind Northerly This Morning the Captain ordered me to take the Pinnace and to go along the North-shore and between Elizabeth's Island and the Shore to see for Indians In the Afternoon it blew hard Northerly that we could not row a head so I put back into a sandy Bay and went a-shore and stayed there all Night and in this Bay we haled the same and got a great many good and large Smelts Smelts of twenty Inches long and eight Inches about Wednesday February 8. Fair Weather Wind West-south-west This Morning at four a Clock I run down the Streights with the Pinnace keeping the Norht-shore a-board and run berwixt it and Elizabeth's Island but saw no Indians yet saw several places where they had been very lately and where they had built their Canowes From Cape Desiade to Elizabeths Island there is Wood and fresh Water plenty but from Elizabeths Island to Cape Virgin-Mary Wood and fresh Water is very scarce to come by This Afternoon at three a Clock I got a-board again and at four a Clock we came to an Anchor in eight Fathom Water black Sand we rid within a Mile of the North-shore St. Georges and St. Bartholomew's Island were both shut in one and they bore South-south-east of me and Elizabeths Island bore South and by East And here we rid with the Ship all Night February 9. Fair Weather Wind Westerly This Morning the Captain sent me to see for Indians but I could see none yet I fell with a good Harbour for small Vessels on the North-side and at the South-end of a great deep Bay thwart of Elizabeths Island the entrance of this Harbour is not a Bow-shot from side to side I sounded it and there was twelve foot Water at a low Water but within there was three Fathom Water at low Water from the entrance of this Harbour to the upper end of it is about seven Miles Here is in this Harbour great stone of Geese and Ducks and a-shore there is great store of Heath-berries and Hicts and small Black-berries good and well-tasted but I saw no Indians so I returned a-board again the Captain went into another Harbour a Mile to the Southward of the second Narrow on the North-shore and sounded and had four Fathom Water in it it is very broad within and there is great store of Sea-Crabs Saturday February 11. Fair Weather Wind variable This day the Captain ordered me to go with the Pinnace and discover the North-shore and if I could with convenience discover some part of the South and to go to the first Narrow and there to stay for the Ship so I went through the second and landed on the South-side in a fine sandy Bay or Cove expecting to fall with Indians for I saw a many Fires up in the Land I went up about five or six Miles but could see no Indians Then the Night coming on I returned again to the Boat and there we pitched a Tent to lie in and lay all Night and at High-water we set the same thwart a Pond of Water and there it stood until Low-water then we halled the Pond all over and haled a-shore about 700 good and large Fish like Mullets This Land is very dry barren Land and nothing to be seen in it worth the Observation
of North Lat. In the building of Houses Tents and Cabins upon these melancholy occasions 't was found expedient to make them under ground and to line them with the skins of Beasts thereby to keep out the sharp impressions of the air Authors are a little confus'd in the History of Whales some reckon up 10 Species but Wormius and Bartholine make them up 22. giving them various Names from their difference in Colours in Fins in Teeth in Whalebone in Spouts in Oyl in Sperma Ceti c. Rondeletius Gesner Bellonius Schonveld Faber Clusius and Tulpius seem indeed to describe 6 or 7 distinct sorts of Whales as the Balaena Vulgaris the Balaena Vera the Orca or Balaena dentata perhaps our Grampus the Physeter or Whirle-Pool the Cete or Pot-Walfish the Monoceros or Unicorn Whale The Trumpa Whale or Spouter may perhaps be the Physeter and the Sperma Ceti Whale the Pot-Walfish thothe Spout and Sperma Ceti may be common to many of them We find in the Philosophical Transactions Numb 205. An Account of Whales by Sir Thomas Sybbalds who has had opportunities of viewing them on the Coasts of Scotland and therefore seems to be more exact than other Writers but we having never read this Book must be content to refer the Reader to it expecting in the mean time more clear distinctions of them from the Excellent Mr. Ray in his intended Synopsis of Fishes and Birds Anno Dom. 1653. The King of Denmark resolv'd to advance the Northern Trade and Discoveries and therefore equipp'd and set out three Ships with Orders to take the most exact Account of all the Coasts and Places they came at and to Report them at their return with all possible Curiosity that thereby the Voyage might be every way beneficial They passed the Weygat Streights and found some Inhabitants of Nova Zembla in their Canoes or little Fishing-Boats These people were very nimble on Foot and were cloath'd with Vestments of the Skins of great Birds like Penguins and Pelicans with the Feathers upon them Their Boots were made of the Hides of Morses or great Seals they had Quivers at their backs full of Arrowes with a Hatchet of Fish-Bones their Temper untractable and indocil abhorring our Beer Spirits and Meats Leaving Nova Zembla they streer'd to Greenland These Countries afford no Trees or Shrubs except a little Juniper and a few dwarf Firs abundance of Moss Heath a sort of Cabbage Lettice Scurvygrass Sorrel Snake-weed Harts-tongue a kind of Strawberry divers species of Ranunculus and Houseleek In the Holes and Rocks infinite quantity of Fowls Nests whose dung with the Moss washed down makes a mould in the Valleys or Clefts which produce the aforementioned Plants otherwise the Country is generally made up of vast heaps of Rocks broken Stones and Ice heaped up from many Generations Of Water-Fowb there is incredible variety and in so great abundance that with their flight they darken the Sun and cover the Sea There are also great quantities of Dog-Fishes Lobsters Gernels Star-Fish Mackrel Dolphins c. a sort of Sea-Spider found in Whales Stomachs For all which see the French Relations of the Danish Voyages Printed at Paris both by M. Peyrere and Martiniere Anno Dom. 1630. Captain Luke Fox was sent out in His Majesties Pinnace the Charles Victualed for 18 Months young Sir John Wolstenhome being Treasurer to search out a North-West Passage He traced Frobisher Hudson Davis Baffin and Button meeting with Whales much Ice and Fowls He built a Pinnace in River Nelson where he found several remains left there by Sir Thomas Button he observed abundance of small spruce Fir-Trees on both sides that River almost covered with moss and other sorts of Trees but small the Valleys had good grass Black-Berries Strawberries Vetches Venison c. but no Natives or Inhabitants to be met with in this place tho in other parts of these Seas he saw several Savages Captain James departing from England soon after Captain Fox upon the same design they both met and caress'd each other near Port Nelson in the month of August Fox got home before winter but the other was forced to stay till the next Summer Of which more in the following Paragraph and in our Supplement at the end Anno 1631. The most ingenious Captain Thomas James was employ'd by the inquisitive Merchants of Bristol to attempt and discover a north-North-West Passage into the South-Sea and was designed for so difficult a work by King Charles the First who was pleased to command him to publish his Voyage in the year 1633. wherein he gives a very accurate and judicious Account of the hardships both in going wintering returning as also of the Streights Capes Bays Tydes Soundings Variations of the Compass and of the Natural Rarities both Philosophical and Mathematical together with a Plat or Card and divers Tables Out of this Journal Mr. Boyle confesses that he took many Passages and Phaenomena related in his History of Cold. This excellent Navigator seems to be of opinion that there is no passing by the North-West to China Japan c. His Reasons may be read at large in his Journal printed at London in Quarto 1633. Yet in the year 1667. this design was renewed and undertaken by several of the Nobility of England and Merchants of London who equipp'd and sent out Zachariah Gillam Commander in the Nonsuch Ketch he passed through Hudson's Streights then into Baffins Bay to the Latitude of 75. from thence Southerly to the Lat. of 51. or thereabruts in a River now called Prince Ruperts River he found here a Friendly Correspondence with the Natives built a Fort called Charles Fort returned with good success and laid the Foundation of an advantageous Trade in those parts But in the year 1687. this place was seized upon by the French See more of Captain James's Voyage and Discoveries in our Supplement at the end Anno 1671. Frederick Martens an Hamburger undertook the Greenland Voyage upon a desire as may be suppos'd in great part to satisfie the Curiosity and Enquiries of the Royal Society which be performed in his admirable Diary printed in High Dutch in Quarto being assisted therein by the famous Fogelius Anno 1676. The industrious and most ingenious Captain Wood was again sent out by his Majesty King Charles the Second to make a more perfect Discovery of the North-East Parts for a passage to the East-Indies He went no further than the 76 Degree of North Lat. where he lost his Ship on the Coast of Nova Zembla His opinion is there is no sailing this North-East Way to China Japan c. The like opinion Captain James hath given of the North-West Passage being both perswaded thereunto by the stretching of the Land by the distraction and reversion of half Tides by the motion of the Ice c. besides the Fogs Snow Frosts vast Islands of Ice and the Weather are insuperable Mr. Witsen in his Letter to the Royal Society Anno 1691. writes
735 Leagues 1 mile 5 tenths Variation of the Compass Easterly 18 Degrees I concluded we had shot past Port Desier Harbour in the Fog for the Islands and Rocks which we saw were Penguin and other Isles lying about it which lies to the Southward of the Harbour of Port Desier Many Seals Penguins pied Porpoises and several Sea Fowls c. seen to day Thursday Febr. 24. Hasey Weather Wind at West-north-west a fresh gale I sent Men up to the Top-mast-head to look abroad this Morning no sight of the Pink I judge she must be in Port Desier I weighed about 8 a Clock this Morning and stood to the Northward with my Ship I went in my Pinnace along the shore to the Northward whilst the Ship sail'd in the Offing about two Leagues from the shore the Shore-side is in Beaches and scatter'd Rocks in many places the Tide of Flood was with us at the North-end of Seals Bay lies a small rocky Island copling up like a Haycock It is cover'd with grey-colour'd Fowls Dung a very strong Tide runs here between the Island and the Main 't is a little more than a Cables length from the Point of the Main there 's a great many broken Rocks about it by the Sea-side here the main Land is low and sandy up the Country in large Downs and Hills without Wood or fresh Water any where On this Island are abundance of Seals and Sea Fowls we gave it the name of Tomahauke Island from an Indian Club lost here called by the Caribbe-Indians at Surinam a Temahauke 't is all a craggy Rock a little bigger than Seal-Island and is eight Leagues to the North-north-east distant from it to the Northwest of this Island is a deep rounding Bay called in the Charts Spiring's Bay wherein lie three small Islands of an indifferent height the Land in the Country over this Bay is large high Hills Rocks lie in the North part of the Bay I cross'd it in the Pinnace amd sounded as I went over and had 21 Fathom rough ground in the mid-way 't is seven Miles broad and near 3 Leagues deep it rounds with a turning up to the North-northwest ward behind a Point farther than I saw upon which rounding Point stand black Rocks which make like a ragged Building and a Tower in it at my coming in with the Land I sail'd close under this shoar with my Boat the shore is steep black Rocks and low Bays with Pebble-stones and sandy Beaches green Grass on the Hills no Wood nor fresh Water to be seen at the North-east Point of this Spiring's-Bay the Land makes out full like a foreland a fair high Land in large plain Hills with sandy small Bays at the face of this Foreland lie six rocky Islands one is a Musket-shot off the Main the rest farther off the outwardmost is the biggest a Mile from the Point of the Main and is called Penguin-Island it is indifferent high at the ends and low in the middle 't is near three quarters of a Mile long North-north-east and south-south-South-south-west and near half a Mile broad East and West it is all craggy Rocks except in the lowest part of the middle which is gravelly and in the Summer time had a little green Grass the great black Gannets lay their Eggs here and the Penguins all over the Island upon and under the Rocks in Holes Seals lie all about the sides on the tops of the highest Rocks and in the middle of it the number of Seals Penguins and Sea-Fowl upon these Islands is alsmost incredible to them that never saw them for the multitude of each Creature that 's there daily is numberless the Six Islands are full of Seals but the Penguins frequent the biggest most I put a-shore at one of them and took into my Boat three hundred Penguins in less than half an hour and could have taken three thousand in the time if my Boat would have carried 'em for 't is but driving 'em in flocks to the shore by the Boats side where two or three Men knock them on the head with short Truncheons and the rest heave them into the Boat the Seals will run over a Man if he does not avoid 'em mean time the Ship was standing to the Northward about 2 Leagues off many broken Rocks and foul ground lie among these Islands and without the Point of the outermost it makes a great ripling which is the strength of the Tide reversed from the Islands aginst the other Tide to the Northward of these Islands is a Bay four Leagues long and a League and half deep in the Northwest thereof lies the Harbour of Port Desier which we could see from Penguin Island 's bearing North-north-west from Penguin Island distant about 3 Leagues about the middle of this Bay are steep white Cliffs near two miles long the upper part of the Cliff has black streaks down a fourth part caused by the Water draining down on it the Land is plain on the top of these Cliffs but further into the Country high rounding Hills and Downs and toward the Water-side low on the South part of the Bay are craggy Rocks on the Main like great Walls near the Sea there 's a sandy Cove to hale a Boat up in foul Weather the Cove is just under these wall-like Rocks Saturday Feb. 26. Fair Weather the Wind at West a stiff gale I kept a Light out all Night that the Pink might see if she came along the first part of the Night a great Fire was made on the shore for the same purpose Cold weather this Morning at 7 a Clock I manned both my Boats and into the Herbour the Ship rode moored at the Harbour-mouth within the Muscle-bank in six Fathom at low Water I sent my Men upon the Hills on the North shore to look abroad for the Pink and make a Fire in the dry Grass that she might see the smoak if she were thereabouts but they could not see her I sounded the Harbour in many places to day at low Water and found it a very good one for great Ships to ride in provided they have good Cables and Anchros I searched the shore but found no Wood and very little fresh Water on the hilly and large Downs very few Bushes but dry long Grass growing in tufts and knots the Soil is gravelly and dry in some Valleys well mixt with black mould no People fire or smoak but our own to be seen I saw several places where they had lain behind Bushes upon Grass which they had plucked up and that they had made small sires and roasted Lumpets and Muscles there lay Wooll Feathers bones of Beasts and shivers of Flints I went to a Flag which I left on a Hill yesterday with Beads at it but finding no body had been at it let it stand no Beasts seen any where except two Hares running over the Hills this day we were taken up with viewing the Harbour so that we did not advance above a mile and
the Bark which was there would certainly have gone up the River to the city of Baldavia and delivered her Goods there and not troubled themselves to carry the goods up in Boats and small flat-bottomed Barges which they have there for the purpose The Barges are built much like our West-Country Barges and smaller by much These Boats or Barges will carry about ten or twelve Tuns they steer with a Rudder and have one Mast and Sail as our Barges have the Sail is made of Cotton-cloth and the Ropes are made of the rind of Mangrove Trees and instead of Anchors they have wooden Crab-claws or Kellocks Anchors of Iron and Grapnels are scarce in these Countries Ropes and Cables of Hemp are also scarce there and good Fir-masts much wanted in all these Countries for their Ships The Masts for their Ships are made of white Cedar and such like Wood they are very heavy and short-grained and will break short There are not any Fir-trees growing in all the Land Good Workmen for the building of Ships are also much wanted here and Seamen The smaller Boats which they have here are Canoas being cut out of the Body of a large Tree and shaped somewhat like a Shallop at the ends some are thirty feet long and built one strake of Board upon them to raise them higher on their sides they will carry near twenty Men a piece some are rowed with Oars and some are less and rowed with Paddles those which are walt have a great Beam lashed fast along each side without Board which keeps them from over-setting These Boats are very ill built for I saw not any one of them fit to row in any Sea-gate or for any Service or to carry any Person of Quality in The Indians are the Spaniards Slaves to row them to and fro and to do all manner of labour for the Spaniards will not lay their Hands to any thing in that nature accounting it beneath them to foul their Fingers with Work for they scorn to be Servants one to another let the one be never so Potent and the other not worth the Rags which he weareth yet he scorns to be a Servant to him and live in America The Land about the Harbour of Baldavia is of a good height and in Land it riseth in large Hills it is low by the Water-side and the Shore is sandy in some Bays and broken shatty bits of glittering Rocks lilke Gold lie shatter'd along by the Shore-side All the whole Country is overgrown with green Woods as what I could see of it and by the Rivers sides there is no travelling in the Woods they are so thick with Under-brush old rotten Trees and Leaves and such Trash The Harbour is near a Mile and an half broad and the Guns cannot command from one side to the other St. Peter's Fort is near two Miles from the Harbours mouth any Ship may come in and beat them from their Guns in St. Jago Fort and in St. Andrew's Sconce which are on the Southwest side of the Harbour After you are in Saint Peter's Fort can do very little or no hurt at all to your Ship excepting it be accidental dropping shot The Spaniards have no Plantation on this South-west side they only keep the Forts for possession that no forein Ship may come and have the Port free to ride in and Trade with the Natives The Harbour is like a Sound after one is within the Mouth of it toward the South part Here grow many good Canes on the Shore-side such as are brought from the East-Indies which are called Bamboas these are very stiff Sticks firm and heavy they grow among the Trees on the sides of the Woods like Vines and wind about the Trees some are above twenty feet long and taper from the root to the top like an Angling-Rod All Commodities which come from Europe are very dear here and scarce for they have none brought to them but by the way of Panama and by the River of Plata which pass through several Merchants hands before they come into these parts and the transporting of them from place to place is very chargeable Many also are but of little esteem here being such plenty of them French Hollands Silks Flanders Laces Silk-stockings Ribbaning French Linnen Looking-glasses and such like Commodities were much enquired for here and would have sold at great Rates Gun-powder for Fowling-pieces is worth a piece of Eight per pound and Bird-shot is worth two Ryals of Plate a pound and a Ryal and an half a pound All Commodities of European Workmanship are of great worth here as I understand and believe that more Northerly on the Coast of Chile about Vale Parazo and Coquinto and Areca where there are more Inhabitants Commodities would bear a much greater price than what I mention and there would vent greater quantities for Silver is more plentiful by much in these parts than at Baldavia they being nearer the Mines of the Potosea for the Silver of Potosea comes down to the Port of Areca and from thence it is carried to Lima by Sea I am of Opinion that the most advantageous Trade in the World might be made in these parts if it were but follow'd and that leave were granted by the King of Spain for the English to Trade freely in all their Ports and Coasts for the People which inhabit there are very desirous of a Trade but the Governours durst not permit it without Orders unless such Ships of force were to go thither and Trade per force and not take notice of the Governours which might be easily performed by four Ships of twenty and thirty pieces of Ordnance a Ship and I believe that the Natives in the Southern parts of Chile about Castro and Orsono and at Baldavia would be brought to a rich Trade of Gold when once they grew to be acquainted with those that should be employed on the design and they did but use them civilly at the first and gain their loves which may be easily done by giving them Knives Scissars Glasses Beads Combs Hatchets and the like Commodities and treat them kindly For what I understand by the Indians who were aboard of me they are Masters of the Golden part of the Country My intent being if Weather permit me to sail all along the Coast from Baldavia to the Southward till I come to the Streights-Mouth at Cape Desiade I came in great hopes to meet with the Indians in some part of the Coasts and to Trade with them for Gold and to find good Harbours I resolve also to see in at the Islands of Castro and Orsono and try what I can find among those Spaniards who are settled there and whether they live accordingly as the Spaniard informed me here The Names of the four Men of my Company whom the Spaniards detained at Baldavia and whom I left there Thomas Armiger Lieutenant aged forty Years and born in Norfolk John Fortescue Gentleman aged twenty seven Years and born in
Flawes Commander being bound upon the Discovery with us At Eight at Night the Naz● Land boar West North about six Leagues we steered away North-east and North-north-east Monday May 29. The Wind at South-west and West-south-west a fresh Gale with Showers of Rain Course per Compass between the North-east and the North distance sailed by the Log 73 Miles true Course Protracted since last Night Eight a Clock to this Day Noon is North 28 d. East difference of Lat. 68 Miles and departure East from the Naze Land 36 Miles Lat. by Judgment as in the Margent Thick cloudy Weather Tuesday May 30. From yesterday Noon to this Day Noon the Wind variable from South-west to the South-east thick cloudy Weather and a fresh Gale Course per Compass North-north-west and North-west by North distance sailed by the Log 95 Miles true Course is North 28 d. West distance of Lat. 83 Miles departure West 45 Miles Lat. per Judgment Meridian distance West nine Miles Wednesday May 31. From yesterday Noon to this Day Noon the Winds variable with Calms and Rains Courses per Traverse true Course Protracted with all impediments allowed is North 43 d. West 60 Miles difference of Lat. 42. Miles departure West 40 Miles Lat. per Judgment 54 d. 13 m. Lat. by a good Observation at Noon 55 d. 30 m. at which time the Land between New-Castle and Berwick bore West about 8 or 9 Leagues Meridian distance Current from the bearing of the Land and the Lat. is 88 Miles 50 Fathom Water saw two Ships standing to the Southward but would not show their Colours Thursday June 1. From yesterday Noon to this Day Noon a fresh Gale from the West by South to the South-west Course per Compass between the North and the North-west distance sailed by the Log 76 Miles true Course Protracted is North 16 d. West Lat. by a good Observation 56 d. 41 m. departure West 21 Miles At nine in the Morning we gave Chase to a Scotch Fisherman and at Noon came up with her and bought some Fish of him at Noon a hard Gale steered away North being about seven or eight Leagues from the Land between Montross and Edenburgh we steered along the Course North by East till eight a Clock Friday June 2. From yesterday Noon to this Day Noon the Winds variable with fair Weather Course per Compass North distance sailed by the Log 117 Miles but by a good Observation 120 Miles Lat. 58 d. 41 m. Winds from the West-south-west to the South-west At two a Clock a great gust of Wind at North-west with Rain we hand our Top-sails and at three it blew a Storm of Wind we lay a Try under a Main-sail till ten a Clock then sent our Fore-sail Saturday June 3. From yesterday Noon to this day Noon true Course Protracted Leeward way and all impediments allowed is North East 42 Miles Lat. by a good Observation is 59 d. 23 m. Meridian distance from the Naze Land is 100 Miles at Noon saw a small Island called Foril lying to the South of Shetland bearing West-north-west about four Leagues in the Afternoon little Wind. Note that we found the Ship more to the Westward than expected being caused by a variation of 6 or 7 d. East Sunday June 4. This Forenoon little Wind with Calms till about 12 at Noon at which time sprung up a Gale West-north-west blowing very hard we ply to windward and turned into Brace-Sound and anchored in nine Fathom Water right against the Town called Lerwick here is the remains of a Fort that was built in the time of War with Holland but upon the Peace with the Hollanders it was demolished for fear any other Nation might come and take it and so keep it Saturday June 10. Rid still till Saturday seven a Clock at which time Weighed the Wind at South-west we took in a Pilot and sailed out through the North end of Brace Sound having three Fathom Water over the shallowest place Sunday June 11. At four in the Morning Scau bore West by North about six Leagues a fresh Gale at South-west hasey Weather From four in the Morning till twelve at Night Course North-north-east distance sailed by the Log 35 Miles true Course allowed from the bearing of the Land is North-east 41 Miles difference of Lat. 30 Miles Lat. by Judgment 61 d. 26 m. Meridian distance from Shetland 30 Miles East From yesterday Noon to this Day Noon a strong Gale at South-west West-south-west West and West-north-west Course per Compass North-north-east distance sailed by the Log 147 Miles difference of Lat. 135 Miles departure East 56 Miles Lat. by Judgment 63 d. 42 m. Meridian distance East 86 Miles thick cloudy Weather at Noon little Wind. Tuesday June 13. From yesterday Noon to this Day little Wind and variable with Calms from the North-west to North-north-east we ply to windward True Course Protracted all impediments allowed is North-north-east 23 Miles difference of Lat. 21 Miles North departure East 8 Miles Lat. by Judgment 64 d. 03 m. Meridian distance 94 Miles Lat. by a good Observation 64 d. 03 m. Wednesday June 14. From the 13. Noon to this Day Noon the Winds variable with fresh Gales Rains and little Winds Course per Traverse between the North-east and the North distance sailed by the Log 92 Miles true Course Protracted all impediments allowed is North 18 d. difference of Lat. 81 Miles departure East 30 Miles Meridian distance 124 Miles Thursday June 15. From the 14. Noon to this Day Noon the Winds variable with Calms from the West to the South-west Course per Compass North-north-east distance sailed by the Log 67 Miles true Course Protracted with allowance is North 22 ½ d. East difference of Lat. 62 Miles departure East 26 Miles Lat. per Judgment 66 d. 26 m. Meridian distance 150 Miles East At Noon broke our Main Topsail-Yard being rotten in the Slings thick hasey Weather Friday June 16. From the 15. Noon to this Day Noon a fresh Gale at West-north-west and West-south-west with Rains and thick Weather Course per Compass North-north-east and North-east by North distance sailed per Log 126 Miles true Course Protracted is North 30 d. East difference of Lat. 108 Miles departure East 63 Miles Lat per Judgment 68 d. 14 m. Meridian distance 223 Miles Saturday June 17. From the 16. Noon to this Day Noon a fresh Gale at West-north-west and West with Rain and cloudy Weather Course per Compass North-east distance sailed by the Log 127 Miles difference of Lat. 90 Miles departure East 90 Miles Lat per Judgment 69 d. 48 m. Meridian distance 303 Miles but by a good Observation at Noon Lat. 69 d. 53 m. difference of Lat. between the Dead Reckoning and Observation is 9 Miles which imputed to a westerly variation which is found by an Azimuth 7 d. Meridian distance Corrected is 300 Miles fair Weather Sunday June 18. From the 17. Noon to this day Noon the Wind from West-north-west to the