where they first planted themselves they having not above 3 or 4 Hand-guns the rest of them being arm'd with Lances The Spaniards in these parts are very expert in heaving or darting the Lance with which upon occasion they will do great feats especially in Ambuscades and by their good will they care not for fighting otherwise but content themselves with standing aloof threatning and calling names at which they are as expert as the other so that if their Tongues be quiet we always take it for granted they have laid some Ambush Before night our Canoa came aboard and brought our men all safe The next day two Canoas were sent to the bottom of the Bay to seek for a large Canoa which we were inform d was there The Spaniards have neither Ships nor Barks here and but a few Canoas which they seldom use neither are there any Fishermen here as I judge because Fish is very scarce for I never saw any here neither could any of our men ever take any and yet where ever we come to an Anchor we always send out our Strikers and put out our Hooks and Lines over-board to try for Fish The next day our men return'd out of the Bay and brought the Canoa with them which they were sent for and 3 or 4 days afterward the 2 Canoas were sent out again for another which they likewise brought aboard These Canoas were fitted with Thoats or Benches Straps and Oars fit for service and one of these Captain Eaton had for his share and we the other which we fixt for landing men when occasion required While we lay here we filled our Water and cut a great many Looms or Handles or Staves for Oars for here is plenty of Lancewood which is most proper for that use I never saw any in the South Seas but in this place there is plenty of it in Jamaica especially at a place called Blewfields not Blewfields River which is on the Main near the West end of that Island The Lancewood grows strait like our young Ashes it is very hard tough and heavy therefore Privateers esteem it very much not only to make Looms for Oars but Scowring-Rods for their Guns for they have seldom less than 3 or 4 spare Rods for fear one should break and they are much better than Rods made of Ash. The day before we went from hence Mr. Edward Davis the Company 's Quarter-master was made Captain by consent of all the Company for it was his place by Succession The 20th day of July we sailed from this Bay of Caldera with Captain Eaton and our Prize which we brought from Gallapagos in company directing our course for Ria Lexa The Wind was at North which although but an ordinary Wind yet it carried us in three days abrest of our intended Port. Ria Lexa is the most remarkable Land on all this Coast for there is a high peeked burning Mountain called by the Spaniards Volean-Vejo or the Old Volcan This must be brought to bare N. E. then steer in directly with the Mountain and that course will bring you to the Harbour The Sea Winds are here at S. S. W. therefore Ships that come hither must take the Sea-winds for there is no going in with the Land-wind The Volcan may be easily known because there is not any other so high a Mountain near it neither is there any that appears in the like form all along the Coast besides it smoaks all the day and in the night it sometimes sends forth flames of fire This Mountain may be seen 20 leagues being within 3 leagues of the Harbor the entrance into it may be seen there is a small flat low Island which makes the Harbor it is about a mile long and a quarter of a mile broad and is from the Main about a mile and half There is a Channel at each end of the Island the West Channel is the widest and safest yet at the N. W. point of the Island there is a shole which Ships must take heed of in going in Being past that shole you must keep close to the Island for there is a whole sandy point strikes over from the Main almost half way The East Channel is not so wide besides there runs a stronger tide therefore Ships seldom or never go in that way This Harbor is capable of receiving 200 Sail of Ships the best riding is near the Main where there is 7 or 8 fathom water clean hard Sand. Ria Lexa Town is 2 leagues from hence and there are 2 Creeks that run towards it the Westermost comes near the backside of the Town the other runs up to the Town but neither Ships nor Barks can go so far These Creeks are very narrow and the Land on each side drowned and full of Red Mangrove-trees About a mile and half below the Town on the banks of the East Creek the Spaniards had cast up a strong Breast-work it was likewise reported they had another on the West Creek both so advantageously placed that 10 men might with ease keep 200 men from landing I shall give a description of the Town in my return hither and therefore forbear to do it here Wherefore to resume the thread of our course we were now in sight of the Volcan being by estimation 7 or 8 leagues from the shore and the Mountain bearing N. E. we took in our Topsails and hal'd up our Courses intending to go with our Canoas into the Harbor in the night In the evening we had a very hard Tornado out of the N. E. with much Thunder Lightening and Rain The violence of the Wind did not last long yet it was 11 a clock at night before we got out our Canoas and then it was quite calm We rowed in directly for the shore and thought to have reach'd it before day but it was 9 a clock in the morning before we got into the Harbor When we came within a league of the Island of Ria Lexa that makes the Harbor we saw a House on it and coming nearer we saw 2 or 2 men who stood and looked on us till we came within half a mile of the Island then they went into their Canoa which lay on the inside of the Island and rowed towards the Main but we overtook them before they got over and brought them back again to the Island There was a Horseman right against us on the Main when we took the Canoa who immediately rode away towards the Town as fast as he could The rest of onr Canoas rowed heavily and did not come to the Island till 12 a clock therefore we were forced to stay for them Before they came we examined the Prisoners who told us that they were set there to watch for the Governor of Ria Lexa received a Letter about a month before wherein he was advised of some Enemies come into the Sea and therefore admonished to be careful that immediately thereupon the Governor had caused a House to be built on this
and West Indies for thatching Houses they are very lasting and serviceable much surpassing the Palmeto For this Thatch if well laid on will endure 5 or 6 years and this is called by the Spaniards the Palmeto Royal. The English at Jamaica give it the same Name Whether this be the same which they in Guinea get the Palm-wine from I know not but I know that it is like this The Land in the Country is full of small peeked barren Hills making as many little Valleys which appear flourishing and green At the West end of this Bay is the Hill of Petaplan in lat 17d 30 m. N. This is a round point stretching out into the Sea at a distance it seems to be an Island A little to the West of this Hill are several round Rocks which we left without us steering in between them and the round point where we had 11 fathom water We came to an anchor on the N. W. side of the Hill and went ashore about 170 Men of us and marched into the Country 12 or 14 miles There we came to a poor Indian Village that did not afford us a Meal of Victuals The people all fled only a Mulatto woman and 3 or 4 small Children who were taken and brought aboard She told us that a Carrier one who drives a Caravan of Mules was going to Acapulco laden with Flower and other Goods but stopt in the Road for fear of us a little to the West of this Village for he had heard of our being on this Coast and she thought he still remained there and therefore it was we kept the Woman to be our Guide to carry us to that place At this place where we now lay our Moskito-men struck some small Turtle and many small Jew-fish The Jew-fish is a very good Fish and I judge so called by the English because it hath Scales and Fins therefore a clean Fish according to the Levitical Law and the Jews at Jamaica buy them and eat them very freely It is a very large Fish shaped much like a Cod but a great deal bigger one will weigh 3 or 4 or 5 hundred weight It hath 3 large head with great Fins and Scales as big as an Half-Crown answerable to the bigness of his body It is very sweet Meat and commonly fat This Fish lives among Rocks there are plenty of them in the West Indies about Jamaica and the Coast of Caraccos but chiefly in these Seas especially more Westward We went from hence with our Ships the 18th day and steered West about 2 leagues farther to a place called Chequetan A mile and half from the shore there is a small Key and within it is a very good Harbour where Ships may careen there is also a small River of fresh water and wood enough The 14th day in the morning we went with 95 Men in 6 Canoas to seek for the Carrier taking the Mulatto woman for our Guide but Captain Townly would not go with us Before day we landed at a place called Estapa a league to the West of Chequetan The woman was well acquainted here having been often at this place for Muscles as she told us for here are great plenty of them they seem in all respects like our English Muscles She carry'd us through the pathless Wood by the side of a River for about a league then we came into a Savannah full of Bulls and Cows and here the Carrier before mentioned was lying at the Estantion-house with his Mules not having dared to advance all this while as not knowing where we lay so his own fear made him his Mules and all his Goods become a Prey to us He had 40 packs of Flower some Chocolate a great many small Cheeses and abundance of Earthen Ware The eatables we brought away but the Earthen Vessels we had no occasion for and therefore left them The Mules were about 60 we brought our Prize with them to the shore and so turn'd them away Here we also kill'd some Cows and brought with us to our Canoas In the afternoon our Ships came to an anchor half a mile from the place where we landed and then we went aboard Captain Townly seeing our good success went ashore with his Men to kill some Cows for here were no Inhabitants near to oppose us The Land is very woody of a good fertile soil watered with many small Rivers yet it hath but few Inhabitants near the Sea Captain Townly killed 18 Beefs and after he came aboard our Men contrary to Captain Swan's inclination gave Captain Townly part of the Flower which we took ashore Afterwards we gave the Woman some Cloaths for her and her Children and put her and two of them ashore but one of them a very pretty Boy about 7 or 8 years old Captain Swan kept The Woman cried and begg'd hard to have him but Captain Swan would not but promis'd to make much of him and was as good as his word He proved afterwards a very fine Boy for Wit Courage and Dexterity I have often wonder'd at his Expressions and Actions The 21st day in the evening we sailed hence with the Land-wind The Land-winds on this part of the Coast are at N. and the Sea-winds at W. S. W. We had fair weather and coasted along to the Westward The Land is high and full of ragged Hills and West from these ragged Hills the Land makes many pleasant and fruitful Valleys among the Mountains The 25th day we were abrest of a very remarkable Hill which towring above the rest of its fellows is divided in the top and makes two small parts It is in lat 18 d. 8 m. North. The Spaniards make mention of a Town called Thelupan near this Hill which we would have visited if we could have found the way to it The 26th day Captain Swan and Captain Townly with 200 Men of whom I was one went in our Canoas to seek for the City of Colima a rich place by report but how far within Land I could never learn for as I said before here is no Trade by Sea and therefore we could never get Guides to inform us or conduct us to any Town but one or two on this Coast and there is never a Town that lieth open to the Sea but Acapulco and therefore our search was commonly fruitless as now for we rowed above 20 leagues along shore and found it a very bad Coast to land we saw no House nor sign of Inhabitants although we past by a fine Valley called the Valley of Maguella only at two places the one at our first setting out on this Expedttion and the other at the end of it we saw a Horseman set as we supposed as a Centinel to watch us At both places we landed with difficulty and at each place we followed the track of the Horse on the sandy Bay but where they entered the Woods we lost the track and although we diligently searcht for it yet we could find it no more so we
we came I mean by the North West I know there have been divers attempts made about a North West Passage and all unsuccessful yet I am of opinion that such a Passage may be found All our Countrymen that have gone to discover the N. W. Passage have endeavoured to pass to the Westward beginning their search along Davis's or Hudsons Bay But if I was to go on this Discovery I would go first into the South Seas bend my course from thence along by California and that way seek a Passage back into the West Seas For as others have spent the Summer in first searching on this more known side nearer home and so before they got through the time of the year obliged them to give over their search and provide for a long course back again for fear of being left in the Winter on the contrary I would search first on the less known Coasts of the South Sea side and then as the year past away I should need no retreat for I should come farther into my knowledge if I succeeded in my attempt and should be without that dread and fear which the others must have in passing from the known to the unknown who for ought I know gave over their search just as they were on the point of accomplishing their desires I would take the same method if I was to go to discover the North East Passage I would winter about Japan Corea or the North East part of China and taking the Spring and Summer before me I would make my first Trial on the Coast of Tartary wherein if I succeeded I should come into some known parts and have a great deal of time before me to reach Archangel or some other Port. Captain Wood indeed says this North East Passage is not to be found for Ice but how often do we see that sometimes designs have been given over as impossible and at another time and by other ways those very things have been accomplished But enough of this The next day after that fatal Skirmish near Santa Pecaque Captain Swan ordered all our Water to be fill d and to get ready to sail The 21st day we sailed from hence directing our course towards California we had the Wind at N. W. and W. N. W. a small gale with a great Sea out of the West We past by 3 Islands called the Maria's After we past these Islands we had much Wind at N. N. W. and N. W. and at N. with thick rainy weather We beat till the 6th day of February but it was against a brisk Wind and proved labour in vain For we were now within reach of the Land Trade-wind which was opposite to us but would we go to California upon any Discovery or otherwise we should bear 60 or 70 leagues off from shore where we should avoid the Land-winds and have the benefit of the true Easterly Trade-wind Finding therefore that we got nothing but rather lost ground being then in 21 d. 5 m. N. we steered away more to the Eastward again for the Islands Maria's and the 7th day we came to an anchor at the East end of the middle Island in 8 fathom Water good clean Sand. The Maria's are three uninhabited Islands in lat 21 d. 40 m. they are distant from Cape St. Lucas on California 40 leagues bearing West South West and they are distant from Cape Corrientes 20 leagues bearing upon the same points of the Compass with Cape St. Lucas They stretch N. W. and S. E. about 14 leagues There are 2 or 3 small high Rocks near them The Westermost of them is the biggest Island of the three and they are all three of an indifferent heighth The soil is stony and dry the land in most places is covered with a shrubby sort of Wood very thick and troublesome to pass through In some places there is plenty of straight large Cedars though speaking of the places where I have found Cedars Chap. 3. I forgot to mention this place The Spaniards make mention of them in other places but I speak of those which I have seen All round by the Sea side it is sandy and there is produced a green prickly Plant whose leaves are much like the Penguin-leaf and the root like the root of a Seâ—…pervive but much larger This root being bak d in an Oven is good to eat and the Indians on California as I have been informed have great part of their subsistence from these roots We made an Oven in a sandy Bank and baked of these Roots and I eat of them but none of us greatly cared for them They taste exactly like the Roots of our English Burdocks boil'd of which I have eaten Here are plenty of Guanoes and Raccoons a large sort of Rat and Indian Conies and abundance of large Pigeons and Turtle-Doves The Sea is also pretty well stored with Fish and Turtle or Tortoise and Seal This is the second place on this Coast where I did see any Seal and this place helps to confirm what I have observed that they are seldom seen but where there is plenty of Fish Captain Swan gave the middle Island the Name of Prince George's Island The 8th day we run nearer the Island and anchored in 5 fathom and moored Head and Stern and unrigg d both Ship and Bark in order to careen Here Captain Swan proposed to go into the East Indies Many were well pleased with the Voyage but some thought such was their ignorance that he would carry them out of the world for about 2 thirds of our Men did not think there was any such way to be found but at last he gain'd their consents At our first coming hither we did eat nothing but Seal but after the first 2 or 3 days our Strikers brought aboard Turtle every day on which we fed all the time that we lay here and saved our Maiz for our Voyage Here also we measured all our Maiz and found we had about 80 Bushels This we divided into 3 parts one for the Bark and two for the Ship our Men were divided also 100 men aboard the Ship and 50 aboard the Bark besides 3 or 4 Slaves in each I had been a long time sick of a Dropsy a distemper whereof as I said before many of our men died so here I was laid and covered all but my head in the hot Sand I indured it near half an hour and then was taken out and laid to sweat in a Tent. I did sweat exceedingly while I was in the Sand and I do believe it did me much good for I grew well soon after We staid here till the 26th day and then both Vessels being clean we sailed to the Valley of Balderas to water for we could not do it here now In the wet Season indeed here is Water enough for the Brooks then run down plentifully but now though there was Water yet it was bad filling it being a great way to fetch it from the holes were it lodged The
which we did set here also our old one being very faulty They made a new Fore-Yard too and a Fore Top-Mast and our Pumps being faulty and not serviceable they did cut a Tree to make a Pump They first squared it then sawed it in the middle and then hollowed each side exactly The two hollow sides were made big enough to contain a Pump-box in the midst of them both when they were joyned together and it required their utmost skill to close them exactly to the making a tight Cylinder for the Pump-box being unaccustomed to such work We learnt this way of Pump-making from the Spaniards who make their Pumps that they use in their Ships in the South Seas after this manner and I am confident that there are no better Hand-pumps in the world than they have While we lay here the young Prince that I mentioned in Chapter the 13th came aboard He understanding that we were bound farther to the Southward desired us to transport him and his Men to his own Island He shewed it to us in our Draft and told us the Name of it which we put down in our Draft for it was not named there but I quite forgot to put it into my Journal This Man told us that not above 6 days before this he saw Captain Swan and several of his Men that we left there and named the Names of some of them who he said were all well and that now they were at the City of Mindanao but that they had been all of them out with Raja Laut fighting under him in his Wars against his Enemies the Alfoores and that most of them fought with undaunted Courage for which they were highly honored and esteemed as well by the Sultan as by the General Raja Laut That now Captain Swan intended to go with his Men to Fort St. George and that in order thereto he had proffered 40 ounces of Gold for a Ship but the Owner and he were not yet agreed and that he feared that the Sultan would not let go away till the Wars were ended All this the Prince told us in the Malayan tongue which many of us had learnt and when he went away he promised to return to us again in 3 days time and so long Captain Reed promised to stay for him for we had now almost finished our business and he seem'd very glad of the opportunity of going with us After this I endeavoured to perswade our Men to return with the Ship to the River of Mandanao and offer their service again to Captain Swan I took an opportunity when they were filling of Water there being then half the Ships Company ashore and I found these all very willing to do it I desired them to say nothing till I had tried the minds of the other half which I intended to do the next day it being their turn to fill Water then but one of these Men who seemed most forward to invite back Captain Swan told Captain Read and Captain Teat of the project and they presently disswaded the Men from any such designs Yet fearing the worst they made all possible haste to be gone I have since been informed that Captain Swan and his Men stayed there a great while afterward and that many of the Men got passage from thence in Dutch Sloops to Ternate particularly Mr. Rofy and Mr. Nelly There they remained a great while and at last got to Batavia where the Dutch took their Journals from them and so to Europe and that some of Captain Swan's Men died at Mindanao of which number Mr. Harthope and Mr. Smith Captain Swan's Merchants were two At last Captain Swan and his Surgeon going in a small Canoa aboard of a Dutch Ship then in the Road in order to get passage to Europe were overset by the Natives at the Mouth of the River who waited their coming purposely to do it but unsuspected by them where they both were kill'd in the Water This was done by the General 's Order as some think to get his Gold which he did immediately seize on Others say it was because the General 's House was burnt a little before and Captain Swan was suspected to be the Author of it and others say that it was Captain Swan's Threats occasioned his own Ruine for he would often say passionately that he had been abused by the General and that he would have satisfaction for it saying also that now he was well acquainted with their Rivers and knew how to come in at any time that he also knew their manner of fighting and the Weakness of their Country and therefore he wou'd go away and get a Band of Men to assist him and returning thither again he would spoil and take all that they had and their Country too When the General has been informed of these discourses he would say What is Captain Swan made of Iron and able to resist a whole Kingdom Or does he think that we are afraid of him that he speaks thus Yet did he never touch him till now the Mindanayans kill'd him It is very probable there might be somewhat of truth in all of this for the Captain was passionate and the General greedy of Gold But whatever was the occasion so he was kill'd as several have assured me and his Gold seiz'd on and all his things and his Journal also from England as far as Cape Corrientes on the Coast of Mexico This Journal was afterwards sent away from thence by Mr. Moody who was there both a little before and a little after the Murder and he sent it to England by Mr. Goddard Chief Mate of the Defence But to our purpose seeing I could not perswade them to go to Captain Swan again I had a great desire to have had the Prince's company but Captain Read was afraid to let his fickle crew lye long That very day that the Prince had promised to return to us which was November 2. 1687. we sailed hence directing our course South West and having the Wind at N. W. This Wind continued till we came in sight of the Island Celebes then it veered about to the W. and to the Southward of the West We came up with the N. E. end of the Island Celebes the 9th day and there we found the current setting to the Westward so strongly that we could hardly get on the East side of that Island The Island Celebes is a very large Island extended in length from North to South about 7 degrees of lat and in breadth it is about 3 degrees It lies under the Equator the North end being in lat 1 d. 30 m. North and the South end in lat 5 d. 30 m. South and by common account the North point in the bulk of this Island lies nearest North and South but at the North East end there runs out a long narrow point stretching N. E. about 30 leagues and about 30 leagues to the Eastward of this long Slipe is the Island Gilolo on the West
detestation on actions which before I disliked but now I trembled at the remembrance of I had long before this repented me of that rovingcourse of life but never with such concern as now I did also call to mind the many miraculous acts of Gods Providence towards me in the whole course of my life of which kind I believe few men have met with the like For all these I returned thanks in a peculiar manner and this once more desired Gods assistance and composed my mind as well as I could in the hopes of it and as the event shew'd I was not disappointed of my hopes Submitting our selves therefore to Gods good providence and taking all the care we could to preserve our lives Mr. Hall and I took turns to steer and the rest took turns to heave out the Water and thus we provided to spend the most doleful night I ever was in About 10 a clock it began to Thunder Lighten and Rain but the Rain was very welcom to us having drank up all the Water we brought from the Island The Wind at first blew harder than before but within half an hour it abated and became more moderate and the Sea also asswaged of its fury and then by a lighted Match of which we kept a piece burning on purpose we looked on our Compass to see how we steered and found our course to be still East We had no occasion to look on the Compass before for we steered right before the Wind which if it had shifted we had been obliged to have altered our couse accordingly But now it being abated we found our Vessel lively enough with that small sail which was then aboard to hale to our former course S. S. E. which accordingly we did being now in hopes again to get to the Island Sumatra But about 2 a clock in the morning of the 19th day we had another gust of Wind with much Thunder Lightening and Rain which lasted till day and obliged us to put before the Wind again steering thus for several hours It was very dark and the hard Rain soaked us so throughly that we had not one dry thread about us The Rain chill'd us extreamly for any fresh water is much colder than that of the Sea For even in the coldest Climates the Sea is warm and in the hottest Climates the Rain is cold and unwholesome for mans body In this wet starveling plight we spent the tedious night Never did poor Mariners on a Lee-shore more earnestly long for the dawning light than we did now At length the day appeared but with such dark black Clouds near the Horizon that the first glimpse of the Dawn appeared 30 or 40 degrees high which was dreadful enough for it is a common saying among Sea-men and true as I have experienced that a high dawn will have high winds and a low dawn small winds We continued our course still East before Wind and Sea till about 8 a clock in the morning of this 19th day and then one of our Malayan friends cryed out Pulo Way Mr. Hall and Ambrose and I thought the fellow had said Pull away an expression usual among English Sea-men when they are Rowing And we wonder'd what he meant by it till we saw him point to his consorts and then we looking that way saw Land appearing like an Island and all our Malayans said it was an Island at the N. W. end of Sumatra called Way for Pulo Way is the Island Way We who were dropping with wet cold and hungry were all overjoyed at the sight of the Land and presently marked its bearing It bore South and the Wind was still at West a strong gale but the Sea did not run so high as in the night Therefore we trimmed our small Sail no bigger than an Apron and steered with it Now our Outlagers did us a great kindness again for although we had but a small sail yet the Wind was strong and prest down our Vessels side very much but being supported by the Outlagers we could brook it well enough which otherwise we could not have done About noon we saw more Land beneath the supposed Pulo Way and steering towards it before night we saw all the Coast of Sumatra and found the errours of our Achinese for the high Land that we first saw which then appeared like an Island was not Pulo Way but a great high Mountain on the Island Sumatra called by the English the Golden Mountain Our Wind continued till about 7 a clock at night then it abated and at 10 a clock it died away and then we stuck to our Oars again though all of us quite tired with our former fatigues and hardships The next morning being the 20th day we saw all the low Land plain and judged our selves not above 8 leagues off About 8 a clock in the morning we had the Wind again at West a fresh gale and steering in still for the Shore at 5 a clock in the afternoon we run to the mouth of a River on the Island Sumatra called Passange Jonca It is 34 leagues to the Eastward of Achin and 6 leagues to the West of Diamond Point which makes with 3 Angles of a Rhombus and is low Land Our Malayans were very well acquainted here and carried us to a small fishing Village within a mile of the Rivers mouth called also by the name of the River Passange Jonca The hardships of this Voyage with the scorching heat of the Sun at our first setting out and the cold Rain and our continuing wet for the last two days cast us all into Fevers so that now we were not able to help each other nor so much as to get our Canoa up to the Village but our Malayans got some of the Townsmen to bring her up The news of our arrival being noised abroad one of the Oramkai's or Noblemen of the Island came in the night to see us We were then lying in a small Hut at the end of the Town and it being late this Lord only viewed us and having spoken with our Malayans went away again but he returned to us again the next day and provided a large house for us to live in till we should be recovered of our sickness ordering the Towns-people to let us want for nothing The Achinese Malayans that came with us told them all the circumstances of our Voyage how they were taken by our Ship and where and how we that came with them were Prisoners aboard the Ship and had been set ashore together at Nicobar as they were It was for this reason probably that the Gentlemen of Sumatra were thus extraordinary kind to us to provide every thing that we had need of nay they would force us to accept of Presents from them that we knew not what to do with as young Buffaloes Goats c. for these we would turn loose at night after the Gentlemen that gave them to us were gone for we were prompted by our Achinese Consorts to
not altogether destitute of small Hills and every where of a moderate heighth and a Champion Country naturally very fit for Cultivation There is one Hill more remarkable than ordinary especially to Seamen The English call it the Golden Mount but whether this name is given it by the Natives or only by the English I know not 'T is near the N. W. end of the Island and Achin stands but 5 or 6 mile from the bottom of it 'T is very large at the foot and runs up smaller towards the head which is raised so high as to be seen at Sea 30 or 40 leagues This was the first Land that we saw coming in our Proe from the Nicobar Islands mentioned in my former Voyage The rest of the Land tho of a good heighth was then undiscerned by us so that this Mountain appeared like an Island in the Sea which was the Reason why our Achin Malayans took it for Pulo Way But that Island tho pretty high Champion Land was invisible when this Golden Mount appeared so plain tho as far distant as that Island Besides what belongs to Achin upon the Continent there are also several Islands under its Jurisdiction most of them uninhabited and these make the Road of Achin Among them is this Pulo Way which is the Easternmost of a Range of Islands that lye off the N. W. end of Sumatra It is also the largest of them and it is inhabited by Malefactors who are banisht thither from Achin This with the other Islands of this Range lye in a semicircular form of about 7 Leagues diameter Pulo Gomez is another large Island about 20 mile West from Pulo Way and about 3 Leagues from the N. W. point of Sumatra Between Pulo Gomez and the Main are 3 or 4 other small Islands yet with Channels of a sufficient breadth between them for Ships to pass through and they have very deep water All Ships bound from Achin to the Westward or coming from thence to Achin go in and out thro one or other of these Channels and because shipping comes hither from the Coast of Surrat one of these Channels which is deeper than the rest is called the Surrat Channel Between Pulo Gomez and Pulo Way in the bending of the Circle there are other small Islands the chief of which is called Pulo Rondo This is a small round high Island not a above 2 or 3 mile in circumference It lyes almost in the extremity of the bending on the N. E. part of the Circle but nearer Pulo Way than Pulo Gomez There are large deep Channels on either side but the most frequented is the Channel on the West side Which is called the Bengal Channel because it looks towards that Bay and Ships coming from thence from the Coast of Coromandel pass in and out this way Between Pulo Way and the Main of Sumatra is another Channel of 3 or 4 Leagues wide which is the Channel for Ships that go from Achin to the Streights of Malacca or any Country to the East of those Streights and vice versa There is good riding in all this Semicircular Bay between the Islands and Sumatra but the Road for all Ships that come to Achin is near the Sumatra Shore within all the Islands There they anchor at what distances they please according to the Monsoons or Seasons of the Year There is a small Navigable River comes out into the Sea by which Ships transport their Commodities in smaller Vessels up to the City The mouth of this River is 6 or 7 Leagues from Pulo Rondo and 3 or 4 from Pulo Way and near as many from Pulo Gomez The Islands are pretty high Champion Land the mould black or yellow the Soyl deep and fat producing large tall Trees fit for any uses There are brooks of water on the 2 great Islands of Way and Gomez and several sorts of wild Animals especially wild Hogs in abundance The Mold of this Continent is different according to the natural position of it The Mountains are Rocky especially those towards the West Coast yet most that I have seen seems to have a superficial covering of Earth naturally producing Shrubs small Trees or pretty good Grass The small Hills are most of them cloathed with Woods the Trees whereof seem by their growth to spring from a fruitful Soyl the Champion Land such as I have seen is some black some grey some reddish and all of a deep mold But to be very particular in these things especially in all my Travels is more than Ican pretend to tho it may be I took as much notice of the difference of Soil as I met with it as most Travellers have done having been bred in my youth in Somersetshire at a place called East Coker near Yeovil or Evil In which Parish there is as great variety of Soil as I have ordinarily met with any where viz. black red yellow sandy stony clay morass or swampy c. I had the more reason to take notice of this because this Village in a great measure is Let out in small Leases for Lives of 20 30 40 or 50 pound per Ann. under Coll. Helliar the Lord of the Mannor and most if not all these Tenants had their own Land scattering in small pieces up and down several sorts of Land in the Parish so that every one had some piece of every sort of Land his Black ground his Sandy Clay c. some of 20 30 or 40 Shillings an Acre for some uses and other not worth 10 groats an Acre My Mother being possest of one of these Leases and having of all these sorts of Land I came acquainted with them all and knew what each sort would produce viz. Wheat Barley Massin Rice Beans Peas Oats Fetches Flax or Hemp in all which I had a more than usual knowledge for one so young taking a particular delight in observing it but enough of this matter The Kingdom of Achin has in general a deep mould It is very well watered with Brooks and small Rivers but none navigable for Ships of burthen This of Achin admits not of any but small Vessels The Land is some part very woody in other places Savannah the Trees are of divers sorts most unknown to me by name The Cotton and Cabbage-trees grow here but not in such plenty as in some part of America These Trees commonly grow here as indeed usually where-ever they grow in a champion dry ground such at least as is not drowned or morassy for here is some such Land as that by the Rivers and there grow Mangrove Trees and other Trees of that kind Neither is this Kingdom destitute of Timber-trees fit for building The Fruits of this Country are Plantains Bonanoes Guava's Oranges Limes Jacks Durians Coco-nuts Pumple noses Pomgranates Mangoes Mangastans Citrons Water melons Musk-melons Pine-apples c. Of all these sorts of Fruits I think the Mangastan is without compare the most delicate This Fruit is in shape much like the Pomgranate but a
is a Pond of brackish Water which sometimes Privateers use instead of better there is likewise good riding by it About a league from this are two other Islands not 200 yards distant from each other yet a deep Channel for Ships to pass through They are both overgrown with red Mangrove Trees which Trees above any of the Mangroves do flourish best in wet drowned Land such as these two Islands are only the East point of the Westernmost Island is dry Sand without Tree or Bush On this point we careened lying on the South side of it The other Islands are low and have red Mangroves and other Trees on them Here also Ships may ride but no such place for careening as where we lay because at that place Ships may hale close to the shore and if they have but four Guns on the point may secure the Channel and hinder any Enemy from coming near them I observ'd that within among the Islands was good riding in many places but not without the Islands except to the West-ward or S. West of them For on the East or N. E. of these Islands the common Trade-Wind blows and makes a great Sea and to the South-ward of them there is no ground under 70 80 or 100 fathom close by the Land After we had filled what Water we could from hence we set out again in April 1682. and came to Salt-Tortuga so called to distinguish it from the shoals of Dry Tortugas near Cape Florida and from the Isle of Tortugas by Hispaniola which was called formerly French Tortugas though not having heard any mention of that name a great while I am apt to think it is swallow'd up in that of Petit-Guavres the chief Garrison the French have in those parts This Island we arrived at is pretty large uninhabited and abounds with Salt It is in Lat. 11 degrees North and lyeth West and a little Northerly from Margarita an Island inhabited by the Spaniards strong and wealthy it is distant from it about 14 leagues and 17 or 18 from Cape Blanco on the Main A Ship being within these Islands a little to the South-ward may see at once the Main Margarita and Tortuga when it is clear weather The East end of Tortuga is full of rugged bare broken Rocks which stretch themselves a little way out to Sea At the S. E. part is an indifferent good Road for Ships much frequented in peaceable times by Merchant-ships that come hither to lade Salt in the months of May June July and August For at the East end is a large Salt-pond within 200 paces of the Sea The Salt begins to kern or grain in April except it is a dry season for it is observed that rain makes the Salt kern I have seen above 20 Sail at a time in this road come to lade Salt and these Ships coming from some of the Caribbe Islands are always well stored with Rum Sugar and Lime-juice to make Punch to hearten their Men when they are at work getting and bringing aboard the Salt and they commonly provide the more in hopes to meet with Privateers who resort hither in the aforesaid months purposely to keep a Christmas as they call it being sure to meet with Liquor enough to be merry with and are very liberal to those that treat them Near the West end of the Island on the South side there is a small Harbour and some fresh Water That end of the Island is full of shrubby Trees but the East end is rocky and barren as to Trees producing only course Grass There are some Goats on it but not many and Turtle or Tortise come upon the sandy Bays to lay their Eggs and from them the Island hath its Name There is no riding any where but in the Road where the Salt-Ponds are or in the Harbour At this Isle we thought to have sold our Sugar among the English Ships that come hither for Salt but failing there we design'd for Trinidada an Island near the Main inhabited by the Spaniards tolerably strong and wealthy but the Current and Easterly Winds hindering us we passed through between Margarita and the Main and went to Blanco a pretty large Island almost North of Margarita about 30 leagues from the Main and in 11 d. 50 m. North Lat. It is a flat even low uninhabited Island dry and healthy most Savanah of long Grass and hath some Trees of Lignum Vitae growing in Spots with shrubby Bushes of other Wood about them It is plentifully stored with Guano s which are an Animal like a Lizard but much bigger The body is as big as the small of a mans leg and from the hind quarter the tail grows tapering to the end which is very small If a Man takes hold of the tail except very near the hind quarter it will part and breakoff in one of the joints and the Guano will get away They lay Eggs as most of those amphibious creatures do and are very good to eat Their flesh is much esteemed by Privateers who commonly dress them for their sick men for they make very good Broath They are of divers colours as almost black dark brown light brown dark green light green yellow and speckled They all live as well in the Water as on Land and some of them are constantly in the Water and among Rocks These are commonly black Others that live in swampy wet ground are commonly on Bushes and Trees these are green But such as live in dry ground as here at Blanco are commonly yellow yet these also will live in the Water and are sometimes on Trees The Road is on the N. W. end against a small Cove or little sandy Bay There is no riding any where else for it is deep water and steep close to the Land There is one small Spring on the West side and there are sandy Bays round the Island where Turtle or Tortoise come up in great abundance going ashore in the night These that frequent this Island are called green Turtle and they are the best of that sort both for largeness and sweetness of any in all the West Indies I would here give a particular description of these and other sorts of Turtle in these Seas but because I shall have occasion to mention some other sorts of Turtle when I come again into the South Seas that are very different from all these I shall there give a general account of all these several sorts at once that the difference between them may be the better discerned Some of our modern Descriptions speak of Goats on this Island I know not what there may have been formerly but there are none now to my certain knowledge for my self and many more of our Crew have been all over it Indeed these parts have undergone great changes in this last age as well in places themselves as in their Owners and Commodities of them particularly Nombre de Dios a City once famous and which still retains a considerable name in some late
times sought after by the Spaniards who knew he was left on the Island yet they could never find him He was in the Woods hunting for Goats when Captain Watlin drew off his men and the Ship was under sail before he came back to shore He had with him his Gun and a Knife with a small Horn of Powder and a few Shot which being spent he contrived a way by notching his Knife to saw the barrel of his Gun into small pieces wherewith he made Harpoons Lances Hooks and a long Knife heating the pieces first in the fire which he struck with his Gunflint and a piece of the barrel of his Gun which he hardened having learnt to do that among the English The hot pieces of Iron he would hammer out and bend as he pleased with Stones and saw them with his jagged Knife or grind them to an edge by long labour and harden them to a good temper as there was occasion All this may seem strange to those that are not acquainted with the sagacity of the Indians but it is no more than these Moskito men are accustomed to in their own Country where they make their own Fishing and Striking Instruments without either Forge or Anvil tho they spend a great deal of time about them Other Wild Indians who have not the use of Iron which the Moskito men have from the English make Hatchets of a very hard stone with which they will cut down Trees the Cotton Tree especially which is a soft tender Wood to build their Houses or make Canoas and though in working their Canoas hollow they cannot dig them so neat and thin yet they will make them fit for their service This their digging or hatchet-work they help out by fire whether for the felling of the Trees or for the making the inside of their Canoa hollow These contrivances are used particularly by the Savage Indians of Blewfield s River described in the 3d Chapter whose Canoas and Stone-hatchets I have seen These Stone-hatchets are about 10 inches long 4 broad and 3 inches thick in the middle They are grownd away flat and sharp at both ends right in the midst and clear round it they make a notch so wide and deep that a man might place his Finger along it and taking a stick or withe about 4 foot long they bind it round the Hatchet-head in that notch and so twisting it hard use it as an handle or helve the head being held by it very fast Nor are other Wild Indians less ingenious Those of Patagonia particularly head their Arrows with Flint cut or grownd which I have seen and admired But to return to our Moskito man on the Isle of John Fernando With such Instruments as he made in that manner he got such Provision as the Island afforded either Goats or Fish He told us that at first he was forced to eat Seal which is very ordinary meat before he had made Hooks but afterwards he never kill'd any Seals but to make lines cutting their skins into thongs He had a little House or Hut half a mile from the Sea which was lined with Goats skin his Couch or Barbecu of sticks lying along about 2 foot distant from the ground was spread with the same and was all his Bedding He had no Cloaths left having worn out those he brought from Watlin's Ship but only a Skin about his Waste He saw our Ship the day before we came to an Anchor and did believe we were English and therefore kill'd 3 Goats in the morning before we came to an anchor and drest them with Cabbage to treat us when we came ashore He came then to the Sea side to congratulate our safe arrival And when we landed a Moskito Indian named Robin first leapt ashore and running to his brother Moskito man threw himself flat on his face at his feet who helping him up and embracing him fell flat with his face on the ground at Robins feet and was by him taken up also We stood with pleasure to behold the surprize and tenderness and solemnity of this interview which was exceedingly affectionate on both sides and when their ceremonies of civility were over we also that stood gazing at them drew near each of us embracing him we had found here who was overjoyed to see so many of his old friends come hither as he thought purposely to fetch him He was named Will as the other was Robin These were names given them by the English for they have no names among themselves and they take it as a great favour to be named by any of us and will complain for want of it if we do not appoint them some name when they are with us saying of themselves they are poor Men and have no name This Island is in lat 34 d. 15 m. and about 120 leagues from the Main It is about 12 leagues round full of high Hills and small pleasant Valleys which if manured would probably produce any thing proper for the Climate The sides of the Mountains are part Savanahs part Wood-land Savanahs are clear pieces of Land without Woods not because more barren than the Wood-land for they are frequently spots of as good Land as any and often are intermixt with Wood-land In the Bay of Campeachy are very large Savanahs which I have seen full of Cattle but about the River of Plate are the largest that ever I heard of 50 60 or 100 miles in length and Jamaica Cuba and Hispaniola have many Savanahs intermixt with Woods Places cleared of Wood by Art and Labour do not go by this name but those only which are found so in the uninhabited parts of America such as this Isle of John Fernandoes or which were originally clear in other parts The Grass in these Savanahs at John Fernando's is not a long flaggy Grass such as is usually in the Savanahs in the West-Indies but a sort of kindly Grass both thick and flourishing the biggest part of the year The Woods afford divers sorts of Trees some large and good Timber for Building but none fit for Masts The Cabbage Trees of this Isle are but small and low yet afford a good head and the Cabbage very sweet This Tree I shall describe in the Appendix in the Bay of Campeachy The Savanahs are stocked with Goats in great Herds but those that live on the East end of the Island are not so fat as those on the West end for though there is much more Grass and plenty of Water in every Valley nevertheless they thrive not so well here as on the West end where there is less food and yet there are found greater Flocks and those too fatter and sweeter That West end of the Island is all high Champion ground without any Vally and but one place to land there is neither Wood nor any fresh Water and the Grass short and dry Goats were first put on the Island by John Fernando who first discovered it in his Voyage from Lima to Baldivia
and discovered also another Island about the same bigness 20 leagues to the Westward of this From those Goats these were propogated and the Island hath taken its name from this its first Discoverer who when he returned to Lima desired a Patent for it designing to settle here and it was in his second Voyage hither that he set ashore 3 or 4 Goats which have since by their increase so well stocked the whole Island But he could never get a Patent for it therefore it lies still destitute of Inhabitants though doubtless capable of maintaining 4 or 500 Families by what may be produced off the Land only I speak much within compass for the Savanahs would at present feed 1000 head of Cattle besides Goats and the Land being cultivated would probably bear Corn or Wheat and good Pease Yams or Patatoes for the Land in their Valleys and sides of the Mountains is of a good black fruitful mould The Sea about it is likewise very productive of its Inhabitants Seals swarm as thick about this Island as if they had no other place in the World to live in for there is not a Bay nor Rock that one can get ashore on but is full of them Sea Lyon's are here in great Companys and Fish particularly Snappers and Rock-fish are so plentiful that 2 men in an hours time will take with Hook and Line as many as will serve 100 men The Seals are a sort of Creatures pretty well known yet it may not be amiss to describe them They are as big as Calves the head of them like a Dog therefore call'd by the Dutch the Sea-hounds Under each Shoulder grows a long thick Fin These serve them to swim with when in the Sea and are instead of Legs to them when on the Land for raising their Bodies up on end by the help of these Fins or Stumps and so having their Tail-parts drawn close under them they rebound as it were and throw their bodies forward drawing their hinder-parts after them and then again rising up and springing forward with their fore-parts alternately they lie tumbling thus up and down all the while they are moving on Land From their Shoulders to their Tails they grow tapering like Fish and have two small Fins on each side the Rump which is commonly covered with their Fins These Fins serve instead of a Tail in the Sea and on Land they sit on them when they give suck to their young Their hair is of divers colours as black grey dun sported looking very sleek and pleasant when they come first out of the Sea For these at John Fernando s have fine thick short Furr the like I have not taken notice of any where but in these Seas Here are always thousands I might say possibly millions of them either sitting on the Bays or going and coming in the Sea round the Island which is covered with them as they lye at the top of the Water playing and sunning themselves for a mile or two from the Shore When they come out of the Sea they bleat like Sheep for their young and tho they pass through hundreds of others young ones before they come to their own yet they will not suffer any of them to suck The young ones are like Puppies and lie much ashore but when beaten by any of us they as well as the old ones will make toward the Sea and swim very swift and nimble tho on shore they lye very sluggishly and will not go out of our ways unless we beat them but snap at us A blow on the Nose soon kills them Large Ships might here load themselves with Seals skins and Trane-oyl for they are extraordinary fat Seals are found as well in cold as hot Climates and in the cold places they love to get on Lumps of Ice where they will lie and sun themselves as here on the Land They are frequent in the Northern parts of Europe and America and in the Southern parts of Africa as about the Cape of Good Hope and at the Streights of Magellan and though I never saw any in the West Indies but in the Bay of Campeachy at certain Islands called the Alceranes and at others called the Desartes yet they are over all the American Coast of the South Seas from Terra del Fuego up to the Equinoctial Line but to the North of the Equinox again in these Seas I never saw any till as far as 21 North Lat. Nor did I ever see any in the East Indies In general they seem to resort where there is plenty of Fish for that is their food and Fish such as they feed on as Cods Groopers c. are most plentiful on rocky Coasts and such is mostly this Western Coast of the South America as I shall further relate The Sea Lion is a large creature about 12 or 14 foot long The biggest part of his body is as big as a Bull it is shaped like a Seal but 6 times as big The Head is like a Lion's Head it hath a broad Face with many long Hairs growing about its Lips like a Cat. It has a great goggle Eye the Teeth inches long about the bigness of a Mans Thumb In Capt. Sharp's time some of our Men made Dice with them They have no Hair on their Bodies like the Seal they are of a dun colour and are all extraordinary fat one of them being cut up and boil'd will yeild a Hogshed of Oil which is very sweet and wholesome to fry Meat withal The lean Flesh is black and of a course grain yet indifferent good food They will lye a week at a time ashore if not disturbed Where 3 or 4 or more of them come ashore together they huddle one on another like Swine and grunt like them making a hideous noise They eat Fish which I believe is their common food The Snapper is a Fish made much like a Roach but a great deal bigger It hath a large Head and Mouth and great Gills The Back is of a bright Red the Belly of a Silver-colour The Scales are as broad as a Shilling The Snapper is excellent meat They are in many places in the West-Indies and the South-Seas I have not seen them any where beside The Rock-fish is called by Sea-men a Grooper the Spaniards call it a Baccalao which is the name for Cod because it is much like it It is rounder than the Snapper of a dark brown colour and hath small Scales no bigger than a Silver-penny This Fish is good sweet meat and is found in great plenty on all the Coast of Peru and Chili There are only two Bays in the whole Island where Ships may Anchor these are both at the East end and in both of them is a Rivolet of good fresh Water Either of these Bays may be fortified with little charge to that degree that 50 men in each may be able to keep off 1000 and there is no coming into these Bays from the West end but with great
was so named by the Spaniards after Sir Francis Drake took the Caoafoga a Ship chiefly laden with Plate which they say he brought hither and divided it here with his Men. It is about 4 mile long and a mile and half broad and of a good heighth It is bounded with high steep Cliffs clear round only at one place on the East side The top of it is flat and even the Soil sandy and dry the Trees it produceth are but small bodied low and grow thin and there are only 3 or 4 sorts of Trees all unknown to us I observed they were much overgrown with long Moss There is good Grass especially in the beginning of the year There is no Water on this Island but at one place on the East side close by the Sea there it drills slowly down from the Rocks where it may be received into Vessels There was plenty of Goats but they are now all destroyed There is no other sort of Land Animal that I did ever see here are plenty of Boobies and Men of War Birds The anchoring place is on the East side near the middle of the Island close by the shore within two Cables lengths of the sandy Bay there is about 18 or 20 fathom good fast oazy ground and smooth Water for the S. E. point of the Island shelters from the South Winds which constantly blow here From the S. E. point there strikes out a small shole a quarter of a mile into the Sea where there is commonly a great Riplin or working of short Waves during all the Flood The Tide runs pretty strong the Flood to the South and the Ebb to the North. There is good landing on the Sandy Bay against the anchoring place from whence you may go up into the Island and at no place besides There are 2 or 3 high steep small Rocks at the S. E. point not a Cables length from the Island and another much bigger at the N. E. end it is deep Water all round but at the anchoring place and at the shole at the S. E point This Island lieth in lat 01d 10 m. South It is distant from Cape St. Lorenzo 4 or 5 leagues bearing from it W. S. W. and half a point westerly At this Island are plenty of those small Sea Turtle spoken of in my last Chapter The 21st day Captain Eaton came to an anchor by us he was very willing to have consorted with us again but Captain Davis's Men were so unreasonable that they would not allow Captain Eaton's Men an equal share with them in what they got therefore Captain Eaton staid here but one night and the next day sailed from hence steering away to the Southward We staid no longer than the day ensuing and then we sailed toward Point St. Hellena intending there to land some Men purposely to get Prisoners for intelligence Point Santa Hellena bears South from the Island Plata It lies in lat 2d 15 m. South The Point is pretty high flat and even at top overgrown with many great Thistles but no sort of Tree at a distance it appears like an Island because the Land within it is very low This Point strikes out West into the Sea making a pretty large Bay on the North side A mile within the Point on the Sandy Bay close by the Sea there is a poor small Indian Village called Sancta Hellena the Land about it is low sandy and barren there are no Trees nor Grass growing near it neither do the Indians produce any Fruit Grain or Plant but Water-Melons only which are large and very sweet There is no fresh Water at this place nor near it therefore the Inhabitants are obliged to fetch all their Water from the River Colanche which is in the bottom of the Bay about 4 leagues from it Not far from this Town on the Bay close by the Sea about 5 paces from high-water mark there is a sort of bitumenous matter boils out of a little hole in the earth It is like thin Tar the Spaniards call it Algatrane By much boiling it becomes hard like Pitch It is frequently used by the Spaniards instead of Pitch and the Indians that inhabit here save it in Jars It boils up most at high water and. then the Indians are ready to receive it These Indians are Fishermen and go out to Sea on Bark-logs Their chief subsistence is Maiz most of which they get from Ships that come hither for Algatrane There is good anchoring to leeward of the Point right against the Village but on the West side of the Point it is deep Water and no anchoring The Spaniards do report that there was once a very rich Ship driven ashore here in calm for want of Wind to work her Assoon as ever she struck she heel'd off to Sea and fill'd with Water presently and then slid off to 7 or 8 fathom Water where she lies to this day none having attempted to fish for her because she lies deep and there falls in here a great high Sea When we were abreast of this Point we sent away our Canoas in the night to take the Indian Village They landed in the morning betimes close by the Town and took some Prisoners They took likewise a small Bark which the Indians had set on fire but our Men quenched it and took the Indian that did it who being asked wherefore he set the Bark on fire said That there was an Order from the Vice-Roy lately set out commanding all Sea-men to burn their Vessels if attacked by us and betake themselves to their Boats There was another Bark in a small Cove a mile from the Village thither our men went thinking to take her but the Sea-men that were aboard set her in flames and fled In the evening our men came aboard and brought the small Bark with them the fire of which they had quenched and then we returned again towards Plata where we arriv'd the 26th day of September In the evening we sent out some men in our Bark lately taken and Canoas to an Indian Village called Manta 2 or 3 leagues to the Westward of Cape St. Lorenzo hoping there to get other Prisoners for we could not learn from those we took at Point St. Hellena the reason why the Vice-Roy should give such orders to burn the Ships They had a fresh Sea-breeze till 12 a clock at night and then it proved Calm wherefore they rowed away with their Canoas as near to the Town as they thought convenient and lay still till day Manta is a small Indian Village on the Main distant from the Island Plata 7 or 8 leagues It slands so advantageously to be seen being built on a small ascent that it makes a very fair prospect to the Sea yet but a few poor scattering Indian houses There is a very fine Church adorned with a great deal of Carved work It was formerly a habitation of Spaniards but they are all removed from hence now The Land about it is dry and
sooner to mutiny than want which we could not well suffer in a place where there are such quantities of these Animals to be had if Men could be perswaded to be contented with them In the afternoon we sailed from Lobos de Terra with the Wind at S. by E. and arrived at Lobos de la Mar on the 19th day Here we found a Letter left by our Bark that was sent to seek Captain Eaton by which we understood that Captain Eaton had been there but was gone before they arriv'd and had left no Letter to advise us which way he was gone and that our Bark was again returned to Plata in hopes to find us there or meet us by the way else resolving to stay for us there We were sorry to hear that Captain Eaton was gone for now we did not expect to meet with him any more in these Seas The 21st day we sent out our Moskito Strikers for Turtle who brought aboard enough to serve both Ships Companies and this they did all the time that we abode here While we lay at this Island Captain Swan made new yards squarer than those he had before and made his Sails larger and our Ships Company in the mean time split plank for Fire-wood and put aboard as many plank as we could conveniently stow for other uses Here being plank enough of all sorts which we had brought hither in the first Prize that we took and left here The 26th day in the evening we saw a small Bark about 3 leagues N. N. W. from the Island but we supposing her to be our own Bark did not go after her The next morning she was 2 leagues South of the Island standing off to Sea but we did not now chace her neither although we knew she was not our Bark for being to Windward of us she could have made her escape if we had chased her This Bark as we were afterward informed was sent out purposely to see if we were at this Island Her orders were not to come too near only to appear in sight they supposing that if we were here we should soon be after her as indeed it was a wonder we had not chaced her but our not doing so and lying close under the Island undiscern d by them was a great occasion of our coming upon Puna afterwards unexpectedly they being now without fear of any Enemy so near them The 28th day we scrubb d our Ships bottoms intending to sail the next day towards Guiaquil it being concluded upon to attempt that Town before we returned again to Plata Accordingly on the 29th day in the morning we loosed from hence steering directly for the Bay of Guiaquil This Bay runs in between Cape Blanco on the South side and Point Chandy on the North. About 25 leagues from Cape Blanco near the bottom of the Bay there is a small Island called Santa Clara which lies East and West It is of an indifferent length and it appears like a dead Man stretched out in a Shroud The East end represents the Head and the West end the Feet Ships that are bound into the Riveâ—… of Guiaquil pass on the South side to avoid the sholes which lie on the North side of it whereon formerly Ships have been lost It is reported by the Spaniards that there is a very rich Wreck lies on the North side of that Island not far from it and that some of the Plate hath been taken up by one who came from Old Spain with a Patent from the King to fish in those Seas for Wrecks but he dying the Project ceas'd and the Wreck still remains as he left it only the Indians by stealth do sometimes take up some of it and they might have taken up much more if it were not for the Catfish which swarm hereabouts The Catfish is much like a Whiting but the Head is flatter and bigger It hath a great wide Mouth and certain small Strings pointing out from each side of it like Cats Whiskers and for that reason it is called a Catfish It hath three Fins one growing on the top of his back and one on either side Each of these Fins hath a stiff sharp bone which is very venemous if it strikes into a mans flesh therefore it is dangerous diving where many of these Fish are The Indians that adventured to search this wreck have to their sorrow experienc'd it some having lost their lives others the use of their limbs by it this we were informed by an Indian who himself had been fishing on it by stealth I my self have known some white men that have lost the use of their hands only by a small prick with the fin of these Fish therefore when we catch them with a Hook we tread on them to take the Hook out of their mouths for otherwise in flurting about as all Fish will when first taken they might accidentally strike their sharp Fins into the hands of those that caught them Some of these Fish are 7 or 8 pound weight some again in some particular places are none of them bigger than a Man's Thumb but their Fins are all alike venemous They use to be at the mouths of Rivers or where there is much Mud and Oaze and they are found all over the American Coast both in the North and South Seas at least in the hot Countreys as also in the East Indies where sailing with Captain Minchin among certain Islands near the Streights of Malacca he pointed to an Island at which he told me he lost the use of his hand by one of these only in going to take the Hook out of its mouth The wound was scarce visible yet his Hand was much swoln and the pain lasted about 9 weeks during most part of which the raging heat of it was almost ready to distract him However though the bony Fins of these Fish are so venemous yet the Bones in their bodies are not so at least we never perceived any such effect in eating the Fish and their Flesh is very sweet delicious and wholesome Meat From the Island Santa Clara to Punta Arena is 7 leagues E. N. E. This Punta Arena or Sandy Point is the westermost point of the Island Puna Here all Ships bound into the River of Guiaquil anchor and must wait for a Pilot the entrance being very dangerous for Strangers The Island Puna is a pretty large flat low Island stretching East and West about 12 or 14 leagues long and about 4 or 5 leagues wide The Tide runs very strong all about this Island but so many different ways by reason of the Branches Creeks and Rivers that run into the Sea near it that it casts up many dangerous sholes on all sides of it There is in the Island only one Indian Town on the South side of it close by the Sea and 7 leagues from Point Arena which Town is also called Puna The Indians of this Town are all Seamen and are the only Pilots in these Seas especially for
We were 2 Ships and 3 Barks in Company viz. Captain Davis Captain Swan a Fireship and 2 small Barks as Tenders one on Captain Davis his Ship the other on Captain Swan's We weighed before day and got out all but Captain Swan's Tender which never budged for the men were all asleep when we went out and the Tide of flood coming on before they waked we were forced to stay for them till the next day The 8th day in the morning we descried a sail to the West of us the Wind was at South and we chased her and before noon took her She was a Ship of about 90 Tun laden with Flower she came from Truxillio and was bound to Panama This Ship came very opportunely to us for Flower began to grow scarce and Captain Davis his men grudg'd at what was given to Captain Swan who as I said before had none but what he had from Captain Davis We jogged on after this with a gentle gale towards Gorgonia an Island lying about 25 leagues from the Island Gallo The 9th day we anchored at Gorgonia on the West side of the Island in 38 fathom clean ground not 2 Cables length from the shore Gorgonia is an uninhabited Island in lat about 3 degrees North It is a pretty high Island and very remarkable by reason of 2 saddles or risings and fallings on the top It is about 2 leagues long and a league broad and it is 4 leagues from the Main At the west-West-end is another small Island The Land against the Anchoring place is low there is a small sandy Bay and good landing The Soil or Mold of it is black and deep in the low ground but on the side of the high Land it is a kind of a red clay This Island is very well cloathed with large Trees of several sorts that are flourishing and green all the year It 's very well watered with small Brooks that issue from the high Land Here are a great many little black Monkeys some Indian Conies and a few Snakes which are all the Land Animals that I know there It is reported of this Island that it rains on every day in the year more or less but that I can disprove however it is a very wet Coast and it rains abundantly here all the year long There are but few fair days for there is little difference in the seasons of the year between the wet and dry only in that season which should be the dry time the rains are less frequent and more moderate than in the wet season for then it pours as out of a Sieve It is deep water and no anchoring any where about this Island only at that West side The Tyde riseth and falleth 7 or 8 foot up and down Here are a great many Perewincles and Muscles to be had at low water Then the Monkeys come down by the Sea side and catch them digging them out of their Shells with their Claws Here are Pearl-Oysters in great plenty They grow to the loose Rocks in 4 5 or 6 fathom water by beards or little small roots as a Muscle These Oysters are commonly flatter and thinner than other Oysters otherwise much alike in shape The fish is not sweet nor very wholsome it is as slimy as a Shell-Snail they taste very copperish if eaten raw and are best boyl'd The Indians who gather them for the Spaniards hang the meat of them on strings like Jews-ears and dry them before they eat them The Pearl is found at the head of the Oyster lying between the meat and the shell Some will have 20 or 30 small Seed-Pearl some none at all and some will have 1 or 2 pretty large ones The inside of the shell is more glorious than the Pearl itfelf I did never see any in the South Seas but here It is reported there are some at the South end of Callifornia In the West Indies the Rancho Rejs or Rancheria spoken of in Chap. 3. is the place where they are found most plentifully 'T is said there are some at the Island Margarita near St. Augustin a Town in the Gulf of Florida c. In the East Indies The Island Ainam near the South end of China is said to have plenty of these Oysters more productive of large round Pearl than those in other other places They are found also in other parts of the East Indies on the Persian Coast. At this Island Gorgona we rummaged our Prize and found a few Boxes of Marmalade and 3 or 4 Jars of Brandy which were equally shared between Captain Davis Captain Swan and their Men. Here we fill'd all our Water and Captain Swan furnished himself with Flower afterward we turned ashore a great many Prisoners but kept the chiefest to put them ashore in a better place The 13th day we sailed from hence toward the Kings Islands We were now 6 Sail 2 Men of War 2 Tenders a Fireship and the Prize We had but little Wind but what we had was the common Trade at South The Land we sailed by on the Main is very low towards the Sea side but in the Country there are very high Mountains The 16th day we passed by Cape Corrientes This Cape is in lat 5 d. 10 m. it is high bluff Land with 3 or 4 small Hillocks on the top It appears at a distance like an Island Here we found a strong current running to the North but whether it be always so I know not The day after we passed by the Cape we saw a small white Island which we chased supposing it had been a Sail till coming near we found our error The 21st day we saw Point Garrachina This Point is in lat 7 d. 20 m. North it is pretty high Land rocky and destitute of Trees yet within Land it is Woody It is fenced with Rocks against the Sea Within the Point by the Sea at low Water you may find store of Oysters and Muscles The Kings Islands or Pearl Keys are about 12 leagues distant from this Point Between Point Garqchina and them there is a small low flat barren Island called Gallera at which Captain Harris was sharing with his Men the Gold he took in his pillaging Sancta Maria which I spake of a little before when on a sudden 5 Spanish Barks fitted out on purpose at Panama came upon him but he fought them so stoutly with one small Bark he had and some few Canoas boarding their Admiral particularly that they were all glad to leave him By this Island we anchored and sent our Boats to the Kings Islands for a a good careening place The Kings Islands are a great many low woody Islands lying N. W. by N. and S. E. by S. They are about 7 leagues from the Main and 14 leagues in length and from Panama about 12 leagues Why they are called the Kings Islands I know not they are sometimes and mostly in Maps called the Pearl Islands I cannot imagin wherefore they are called so for I did
Besides this present from the Governour there was a Captain of a Jonk sent two Jars of Arack and abundance of Pine-apples and Water-melons Captain Read sent ashore as a Present to the Governour a curious Spanish Silver-hilted Rapier an English Carbine and a Gold Chain and when the Officer went ashore three Guns were fired In the afternoon the Governour sent off the same Officer again to complement the Captain for his civility and promised to retaliate his kindness before we departed but we had such blustring weather afterward that no Boat could come aboard We stayed here till the 29th day and then sailed from hence with the wind at S. W. and pretty fair weather We now directed our course for some Islands we had chosen to go to that lye between Formosa and Luconia They are laid down in our plots without any name only with a figure of 5 denoting the number of them It was supposed by us that these Islands had no Inhabitants because they had not any name by our Hydographers Therefore we thought to lye there secure and be pretty near the Island Luconia which we did still intend to visit In going to them we sailed by the South West end of Formosa leaving it on our larboard side This is a large Island the South end is in lat 21 d. 20 m. and the North end in 25 d. 10 m. North lat the longitude of this Isle is laid down from 142 d. 5 m. to 143 d. 16 m. reckoning East from the pike of Tenariffe so that 't is but narrow and the Tropick of Cancer crosses it It is a high and woody Island and was formerly well inhabited by the Chinese and was then frequently visited by English Merchants there being a very good Harbour to secure their Ships But since the Tartars have conquered China they have spoiled the Harbour as I have been informed to hinder the Chinese that were then in Rebellion from fortifying themselves there and ordered the foreign Merchants to come and trade on the Main The 6th day of August we arrived at the five Islands that we were bound to and anchored on the East side of the Northermost Island in 15 fathom a Cables length from the shore Here contrary to our expectation we found abundance of Inhabitants in sight for there were 3 large Towns all within a league of the Sea and another larger Town than any of the three on the back side of a small hill close by also as we found afterwards These Islands lye in lat 20 d. 20 m. North lat by my observation for I took it there and I find their Longitude according to our Drafts to be 141 d. 50 m. These Islands having no particular Names in the Drafts some or other of us made use of the Seamens priviledge to give them what names we pleased Three of the Islands were pretty large the Westermost is the biggest This the Dutch men who were among us called the Prince of Orange's Island in honour of his present Majesty It is about 7 or 8 leagues long and about 2 leagues wide and it lies almost N. and S. The other two great Islands are about 4 or 5 leagues to the Eastward of this The Northermost of them where we first anchored I called the D. of Grafton's Isle as soon as we landed on it having married my Wife out of his Dutchess's Family and leaving her at Arlington house at my going aboard This Isle is about 4 leagues long and one league and a half wide stretching North and South The other great Isle our Seamen called the Duke of Monmouth's Island This is about a league to the Southward of Grafton Isle It is about 3 leagues long and a league wide lying as the other Between Monmouth and the South end of Orange Island there are two small Islands of a roundish form lying East and West The Eastermost Island of the two our men unanimously called Bashee Island from a Liquor which we drank there plentifully every day after we came to an anchor at it The other which is the smallest of all we called Goat Island from the great number of Goats there and to the Northward of them all are two high Rocks Orange Island which is the biggest of them all is not inhabited It is high Land flat and even on the top with steep cliffs against the Sea for which reason we could not go ashore there as we did on all the rest I have made it my general observation that where the Land is fenced with steep Rocks and Cliffs against the Sea there the Sea is very deep and seldom affords anchor ground and on the other side where the Land falls away with a declivity into the Sea altho the Land be exrraordinary high within yet there are commonly good soundings and consequently anchoring and as the visible declivity of the Land appears near or at the edge of the Water whether pretty steep or more sloping so we commonly find our anchor ground to be more or less deep or steep therefore we came nearer the shore or anchor farther off as we see convenient for there is no Coast in the World that I know or have heard of where the Land is of a continual heighth without some small Valleys or declivities which lye intermixt with the high Land They are these subsidings of Valleys or low Lands that make dents in the shore and Creeks small Bays and Harbours or little Coves c. which afford good anchoring the surface of the Earth being there lodged deep under Water Thus we find many good Harbours on such Coasts where the Land bounds the Sea with steep Clifs by reason of the Declivities or subsiding of the Land between these Cliffs But where the Declension from the Hills or Cliffs is not within Land between Hill and Hill but as on the Coast of Chili and Peru the Declivity is toward the Main Sea or into it the Coast being perpendicular or very steep from the neighbouring Hills as in those Countries from the Andes that run along the shore there is a deep Sea and few or no Harbours or Creeks All that Coast is too steep for anchoring and hath the fewest Roads fit for Ships of any Coast I know The Coasts of Gallicia Portugal Norway and Newfoundland c. are Coasts like the Peruvian and the high Islands of the Archipelago but yet not so scanty of good Harbours for where there are short Ridges of Land there are good Bays at the extremities of those Ridges where they plunge into the Sea as on the Coast of Caraccos c. The Island of John Fernando and the Island St. Helena c. are such high Land with deep shore and in general the plunging of any Land under Water seems to be in proportion to the rising of its continuous part above Water more or less steep and it must be a bottom almost level or very gently declining that affords good anchoring Ships being soon driven from their Moorings on
men that was left ashore I shall speak more of him hereafter He and the rest of them told me that after the Ship was out of sight the Natives began to be more kind to them than they had been before and perswaded them to cut their Hair short as theirs was offering to each of them if they would do it a young Woman to Wife and a small Hatchet and other Iron Utenfils fit for a Planter in Dowry and withal shewed them a piece of Land for them to manage They were courted thus by several of the Town where they then were but they took up their head-quarters at the house of him with whom they first went ashore When the Ship appeared in sight again then they importuned them for some Iron which is the chief thing that they covet even above their Ear-rings We might have bought all their Ear-rings or other Gold they had with our Iron-bars had we been assur'd of its goodness and yet when it was touch'd and compared with other Gold we could not discern any difference tho it look'd so pale in the lump but the seeing them polish it so often was a new discouragement This last Storm put our Men quite out of heart for although it was not altogether so fierce as that which we were in on the Coast of China which was still fresh in memory yet it wrought more powerfully and frighted them from their design of cruising before Manila fearing another Storm there Now every Man wisht himself at home as they had done an hundred times before but Captain Reed and Captain Teat the Master perswaded them to go towards Cape Comorin and then they would tell them more of their minds intending doubtless to cruize in the Red Sea and they easily prevailed with the Crew The Eastern Monsoon was now at hand and the best way had been to go through the Streights of Malacca but Captain Teat said it was dangerous by reason of many Islands and Shoals there with which none of us were acquainted Therefore he thought it best to go round on the East side of all the Philippine Islands and so keeping South toward the Spice Islands to pass out into the East Indian Ocean about the Island Timor This seemed to be a very tedious way about and as dangerous altogether for Sholes but not for meeting with English or Dutch Ships which was their greatest fear I was well enough satisfied knowing that the farther we went the more Knowledge and Experience I should get which was the main thing that I regarded and should also have the more variety of places to attempt an Escape from them being fully resolv'd to take the first opportunity of giving them the slip CHAP. XVI They depart from the Bashee Islands and passing by some others and the N. End of Luconia St. John's Isle and other of the Philippines they stop at the two Isles near Mindanao where they re-fit their Ship and make a Pump after the Spanish fashion By the young Prince of the Spice-Island they have News of Captain Swan and his men left at Mindanao The Author proposes to the Crew to return to him but in vain the story of his Murder at Mindanao The Clove-Islands Ternate Tidore c. The Island Celebes and Dutch Town of Macasser They Coast along the East side of Celebes and between it and other Islands and Sholes with great Difficulty Shy Turtle Vast Cookles A wild Vine of great Virtue for Sores Great Trees one excessively big Beacons instead of Buoys on the Sholes A Spout a Description of them with a story of one Uncertain Tornadoes Turtle The Island Bouton and its chief Town and Harbour Callasusung The Inhabitants Visits given and receiv'd by the Sultan His Device in the Flag of his Proe his Guards Habit and Children Their Commerce Their different esteem as they pretend of the English and Dutch Maritime Indians sell others for Slaves Their Reception in the Town A Boy with 4 Rows of Teeth Parakites Crockadores a sort of White Parrots They pass among other Inhabited Islands Omba Pentare Timor c. Sholes New-Holland laid down too much Northward It s Soil and Dragon trees The poor Winking Inhabitants their Features Habit Food Arms c. The way of fetching Fire out of Wood. The Inhabitants on the Islands Their Habitations Unfitness for Labour c. The great Tides here They design for the Island Cocos and Cape Comorin THE third day of October 1687. we sailed from these Islands standing to the Southward intending to sail through among the Spice Islands We had fair weather and the wind at West We first steered S. S. W. and passed close by certain small Islands that lye just by the North end of the Island Luconia We left them all on the West of us and past on the East side of it and the rest of the Philippine Islands coasting to rhe Southward The N. East end of the Island Luconia appears to be good Champion Land of an indifferent heighth plain and even for many leagues only it has some pretty high Hills standing upright by themselves in these Plains but no ridges of Hills or chains of Mountains joyning one to another The Land on this side seems to be most Savannah or Pasture The S. E. part is more Mountainous and Woody Leaving the Island Luconia and with it our Golden projects we sailed on the Southward passing on the East side of the rest of the Philippine Islands These appear to be more Mountainous and less Woody till we came in sight of the Island St. John the first of that name I mentioned the other I spake of on the Coast of China This I have already described to be a very woody Island Here the Wind coming Southerly forced us to keep farther from the Islands The 14th day of October we came close by a small low Woody Island that lyeth East from the S. E. end of Mindanao distant from it about 20 leagues I do not find it set down in any Sea-Chart The 15th day we had the Wind at N. E. and we steered West for the Island Mindanao and arrived at the S. E. end again on the 16th day There we went in and anchored between two small Islands which lye in about 5 d. 10 m. N. Lat. I mentioned them when we first came on this Coast. Here we found a fine small Cove on the N. W. end of the Eastermost Island fit to Careen in or hale ashore so we went in there and presently unrigged our Ship and provided to hale our Ship ashore to clean her bottom These Islands are about 3 or 4 leagues from the Island Mindanao they are about 4 or 5 miles in circumference and of a pretty good heighth The mold is black and deep and there are two small Brooks of fresh Water They are both plentifully stored with great high Trees therefore our Carpenters were sent ashore to cut down some of them for our use for here they made a new Boltsprit
side of which are 4 small Islands close by it which are very well stored with Cloves The two chiefest are Ternate and Tidore and as the Isle of Ceylon is reckoned the only place for Cinnamon and that of Banda for Nutmegs so these are thought by some to be the only Clove Islands in the World but this is a great error as I have already shewn At the South end of the Island Celebes there is a Sea or Gulph of about 7 or 8 leagues wide and 40 or 50 long which runs up the Countrey almost directly to the North and this Gulph hath several small Islands along the middle of it On the West side of the Island almost at the South end of it the Town of Macasser is seated A Town of great Strength and Trade belonging to the Dutch There are great Inlets and Lakes on the East side of the Island as also abundance of small Islands and sholes lying scattered about it We saw a high peeked Hill at the N. end but the Land on the East side is low all along for we cruized almost the length of it The mold on this side is black and deep and extraordinary fat and rich and full of Trees and there are many Brooks of Water run out into the Sea Indeed all this East side of the Island seems to be but one large Grove of extraordinary great high Trees Having with much ado got on this East side coasting along to the Southward and yet having but little Wind and even that little against us at S. S. W. and sometimes Calm we were a long time going about the Island The 22d day we were in Lat. 1 d. 20 m. South and being about 3 leagues from the Island standing to the Southward with a very gentle Land wind about 2 or 3 a clock in the morning we heard a clashing in the Water like Boats rowing and fearing some sudden attack we got up all our Arms and stood ready to defend our selves As soon as it was day we saw a great Proe built like the Mindanayan Proe's with about 60 men in her and 6 smaller Proe's They lay still about a mile to Windward of us to view us and probably design'd to make a prey of us when they first came out but they were now afraid to venture on us At last we shewed them Dutch Colours thinking thereby to allure them to come to us for we could not go to them but they presently rowed in toward the Island and went into a large opening and we saw them no more nor did we ever see any other Boats or Men but only one fishing Canoa while we were about this Island neither did we see any House on all the Coast. About 5 or 6 leagues to the South of this place there is a great Range of both large and small Islands and many shoals also that are not laid down in our Drafts which made it extreamly troublesom for us to get through But we past between them all and the Island Celebes and anchored against a sandy Bay in 8 fathom sandy ground about half a mile from the main Island being then in lat 1 d. 50 m. South Here we stayed several days and sent out our Canoas a striking of Turtle every day for here is great plenty of them but they were very shy as they were generally where-ever we found them in the East India Seas I know not the reason of it unless the Natives go very much a striking here for even in the West Indies they are shy in places that are much disturbed and yet on New Holland we found them shy as I shall relate though the Natives there do not molest them On the sholes without us we went and gathered Shell-fish at low water There were a monstrous sort of Cockles the Meat of one of them would suffice 7 or 8 Men. It was very good wholsom Meat We did also beat about in the Woods on the Island but found no game One of our Men who was always troubled with sore Legs found a certain Vine that supported it self by climbing about other Trees The leaves reach'd 6 or 7 feet high but the strings or branches 11 or 12. It had a very green leaf pretty broad and roundish and of a thick substance These leaves pounded small and boiled with Hogs Lard make an excellent Salve Our Men knowing the vertues of it stockt themselves here there was scarce a Man in the Ship but got a pound or two of it especially such as were troubled with old Ulcers who found great benefit by it This Man that discovered these leaves here had his first knowledge of them in the Isthmus of Darien he having had this Receipt from one of the Indians there and he had been ashore in divers places since purposely to seek these leaves but did never find any but here Among the many vast Trees hereabouts there was one exceeded all the rest This Captain Read caused to be cut down in order to make a Canoa having lost our Boats all but one small one in the late Storms so 6 lusty Men who had been Logwood cutters in the Bays of Campeachy and Honduras as Captain Read himself and many more of us had and so were very expert at this work undertook to fell it taking their turns 3 always cutting together and they were one whole day and half the next before they got it down This Tree though it grew in a Wood was yet 18 foot in circumference and 44 foot of clean body without knot or branch and even there it had no more than one or two branches and then ran clean again 10 foot higher there it spread it self into many great limbs and branches like an Oak very green and flourishing yet it was perisht at the heart which marr'd it for the service intended So leaving it and having no more business here we weighed and went from hence the next day it being the 29th day of November While we lay here we had some Tornadoes one or two every day and pretty fresh Land Winds which were at West The Sea breezes were small and uncertain sometimes out of the N. E. and so veering about to the East and South East We had the Wind at North East when we weighed and we steered off S. S. W. In the afternoon we saw a shole a head of us and altered our course to the S. S. E. In the evening at 4 a clock we were close by another great shole therefore we tackt and stood in for the Island Celebes again for fear of running on some of the sholes in the night By day a Man might avoid them well enough for they had all Beacons on them like Huts built on tall Posts above high-water mark probably set up by the Natives of the Island Celebes or those of some other neighbouring Islands and I never saw any such elsewhere In the night we had a violent Tornado out of the S. W. which lasted about an hour The 30th day
or 8 leagues from the Island Sumatra on the West side of it we saw abundance of Coco Nuts swimming in the Sea and we hoysed out our Boat and took up some of them as also a small Hatch or Scuttle rather belonging to some Bark The Nuts were very sound and the Kernel sweet and in some the Milk or Water in them was yet sweet and good The 13th day we came to a small Island called Triste in Lat. by observation 4 d. South it is about 14 or 15 leagues to the West of the Island Sumatra From hence to the Northward there are a great many small uninhabited Islands lying much at the same distance from Sumatra This Island Triste is not a mile round and so low that the Tide flows clear over it It is of a sandy soil and full of Coco-nut Trees The Nuts are but small yet sweet enough full and more ponderous than I ever felt any of that bigness notwithstanding that every Spring-tide the Salt water goes clear over the Island We sent ashore our Canoas for Coco-nuts and they return'd aboard laden with them three times Our Strikers also went out and struck some Fish which was boiled for Supper They also killed 2 young Aligators which we salted for the next day I had no opportunity at this place to make my Escape as I would have done and gone over hence to Sumatra could I have kept a Boat with me But there was no compassing this and so the 15th day we went from hence steering to the Northward on the West side of Sumatra Our Food now was Rice and the Meat of the Coco-nuts rasped and steep'd in water which made a sort of Milk into which we did put our Rice making a pleasant Mess enough After we parted from Triste we saw other small Islands that were also full of Coco-nut Trees The 19th day being in Lat. 3 d. 25 m. S. the S. W. point of the Island Nassau bore N. about 5 mile dist This is a pretty large uninhabited Island in Lat. 3 d. 20 m. S. and is full of high Trees About a mile from the Island Nassau there is a small Island full of Coco-nut Trees There we anchored the 20th day to replenish our stock of Coco-nut Trees A 〈◊〉 riff of Rocks lies almost round this Island so that our Boats could not go ashore nor come aboard at low water yet we got aboard 4 Boat loads of Nuts This Island is low like Triste and the anchoring is on the North side where you have 14 fathom a mile from shore clean sand The 21st day we went from hence and kept to the Northward coasting still on the West side of the Island Sumatra and having the winds between the W. and S. S. W. with unsettled weather sometimes Rains and Tornadoes and sometimes fair weather The 25th day we crost the Equator still coasting to the Northward between the Island Sumatra and a range of small Islands lying 14 or 15 leagues off it Among all these Islands Hog Island is the most considerable It lies in lat 3 d. 40. m. North. It is pretty high even Land cloathed with tall flourishing Trees we past by it the 28th day The 29th we saw a sail to the North of us which we chased but it being little wind we did not come up with her till the 30th day Then being within a league of her Captain Read went in a Canoa and took her and brought her aboard She was a Proe with 4 men in her belonging to Achin whither she was bound She came from one of these Coco-nut Islands that we past by and was laden with Coco-nuts and Goco-nut Oil. Captain Read ordered his men to take aboard all the Nuts and as much of the Oyl as he thought convenient and then cut a hole in the bottom of the Proe and turned her loose keeping the men Prisoners It was not for the lucre of the Cargo that Captain Read took this Boat but to hinder me and some others from going ashore for he knew that we were ready to make our escapes if an opportunity presented it self and he thought that by his abusing and robbing the Natives we should be afraid to trust our selves among them But yet this proceeding of his turned to our great advantage as shall be declared hereafter May the 1st we ran down by the North West end of the Island Sumatra within 7 or 8 leagues of the shore All this West side of Sumatra which we thus coasted along our Englishmen at Fort St. George call the West Coast simply without adding the name of Sumatra The Prisoners who were taken the day before shewed us the Islands that lye off of Achin Harbour and the Channels through which Ships go in and told us also that there was an English Factory at Achin I wisht my self there but was forced to wait with patience till my time was come We were now directing our course towards the Nicobar Islands intending there to clean the Ship 's bottom in order to make her sail well The 4th day in the evening we had sight of one of the Nicobar Islands The Southermost of them lies about 40 leagues N. N. W. from rhe N. W. end of the Island Sumatra This most Southerly of them is Nicobar it self but all the cluster of Islands lying South of the Audeman Islands are called by our Seamen the Nicobar Islands The Inhabitants of these Islands have no certain converse with any Nation but as Ships pass by them they will come aboard in their Proes and offer their Commodities to sale never inquiring of what Nation they are for all white people are alike to them Their chiefest Commodities are Ambergrease and Fruits Ambergrease is often found by the Native Indians of these Islands who know it very well as also know how to cheat ignorant Strangers with a certain mixture like it Several of our men bought such of them for a small purchase Captain Weldon also about this time touched at some of these Islands to the North of the Island where we lay and I saw a great deal of such Ambergrease that one of his men bought there but it was not good having no smell at all Yet I saw some there very good and fragrant At that Island where Captain Weldon was there were 2 Fryers sent thither to convert the Indians One of them came away with Captain Weldon the other remained there still He that came away with Captain Weldon gave a very good character of the Inhabitants of that Island viz. that they were very honest civil harmless People that they were not addicted to Quarrelling Theft or Murder that they did marry or at least live as Man and Wife one Man with one Woman never changing till Death made the separation that they were punctual and honest in performing their Bargains and that they were inclined to receive the Christian Religion This Relation I had afterwards from the mouth of a Priest at Tonqueen who told me that he
Islands lying in the Lat. of about 23 d. North and distant from the Coast of Jucatan about 25 Leagues the biggest is not above a Mile or two in Circuit They are distant from one another 2 or 3 Miles not lying in a Line but soattering here and there with good Channels of 20 or 30 Fathom Water for a Ship to pass between All of them have good Anchoring on the West sides where you may ride in what depths you please from 10 to 2 Fathom Water clean sandy Ground On some there are a few low Bushes of Burton-Wood but they are mostly Barren and Sandy bearing nothing but only a little Chicken-Weed neither have they any fresh Water Their Land-Animals are only large Rats which are in great Plenty and of Fowls Boobies in vast abundance with Men of War and Egg-Birds These inhabit only on some of the Northermost of them not promiscuously one among another but each sort within their own Precincts viz. the Boobies and the other two sorts each a-part by themselves and thus two or three of the Islands are wholly taken up The Boobies being most numerous have the greatest portion of Land The Egg-Birds tho' they are many yet being but small take up but little room to the rest Yet in that little part which they inhabit they are sole Masters and not disturbed by their Neighbours All three sorts are very tame especially the Boobies and so thick settled that a Man cannot pass through their Quarters without coming within reach of their Bills with which they continually peck't at us I took notice that they sate in Pairs and therefore at first thought them to be Cock and Hen but upon striking at them one flew away from each place and that which was left behind seemed as malicious as the other that was gone I admired at the boldness of those that did not fly away and used some sort of violence to force them but in vain for indeed these were young Ones and had not yet learned the use of their Wings tho' they were as big and as well feathered as their Dams only their Feathers were something whiter and fresher I took notice that an old one either the Cock or Hen always sat with the Young to secure them for otherwise these Fowls would prey on each other the Strong on the Weak at least those of a different Kind would make bold with their Neighbours The Men-of-War-Birds as well as the Boobies left Guardians to the Young when they went off to Sea lest they should be starved by their Neighbours for there were a great many old and lame Men of War Birds that could not fly off to Sea to seek their own Food These did not inhabit among their Consorts but were either expelled the Community or else chose to lye out at some distance from the rest and that not altogether but scattering here and there where they could rob securest I saw near 20 of them on one of the Islands which sometimes would sally into the Camp to seek for Booty but presently retreated again whether they got any thing or nothing If one of these lame Birds found a Young Booby not guarded it presently gave him a good poult on the back with his Bill to make him disgorge which they will do with one stroak and it may be cast up a Fish or two as big as a Mans Wrist this they swallow in a trice and march off and look out for another Prize The sound Men-of-War will sometimes serve the old Boobies so off at Sea I have seen a Man-of-War fly directly at a Booby and give it one blow which has caused it to cast up a large Fish and the Man of War flying directly down after it has taken it in the Air before it reach'd the Water There are abundance of Fish at some distance from these Islands by which the Fowls inhabiting here are daily supplied The Fish near the Island are Sharks Sword Fishes and Nurses all three sorts delighting to be near sandy Bays those that I saw here were but of a small size the Sword-Fish not above a Foot and a half or two Foot long neither were the Sharks much longer and the Nurses about the same length The Nurse is just like a Shark only its skin is rougher and is used for making the finest Rasps Here are many Seals they come up to sun themselves only on two or three of the Islands I don't know whether exactly of the same kind with those in colder Climates but as I have noted in my former Book they always live where there is plenty of Fish To the North of these Islands lyes a long ledge of Rocks bending like a Bow it seems to be 10 or 12 Yards wide and about 4 Leagues long and 3 Leagues distant from the Island They are above Water all joyning very close to one another except at one or two Places where are small Passages about nine or ten Yards Wide 't was through one of these that Providence directed us in the Night for the next Morning we saw the Riff about half a Mile to the North of us and right against us was a small Gap by which we came in hither but coming to view it more nearly with our Boat we did not dare to venture out that way again One Reason why we would have gone out to the Northward was because from our Main-top we saw the Islands to the Southward of us and being unacquainted knew not whether we might find among them a Channel to pass through our second reason was the hopes of making a better slant in for the shore if we could weather the East end of the Riff In order to this we weighed Anchor keeping down by the side of the Riff till we were at the West end of it which was about a League from where we Anchored then we stood off to the North and there kept plying off and on to Weather the East end of the Riff three Days but not being able to effect it by reason of a strong Current setting to the N. W. we ran back again to the West end of the Riff and steered away for the Islands There we Anchored and lay three or four days and visited most of them and found plenty of such Creatures as I have already described Though here was great store of such good Food and we like to want yet we did neither salt any nor spend of it fresh to save our Stock I found them all but one Man averse to it but I did heartily wish them of another mind because I dreaded wanting before the end of the Voyage a hazard which we needed not to run there being here such plenty of Fowls and Seals especially of the latter that the Spaniards do often come hither to make Oyl of their Fat upon which account it has been visited by English men from Jamaica particularly by Capt. Long who having the command of a small Bark came hither purposely to make Seal-Oyl and
anchored on the North side of one of the sandy Islands the most convenient Place for his design Having got ashore his Cask to put his Oyl in and set up a Tent for lodging himself and his Goods he began to kill the Seal and had not wrought above three or four Days before a fierce North-wind blew his Bark ashore By good fortune she was not damnified but his company being but small and so despairing of setting her afloat again they fell to contriving how to get away a very difficult Task to accomplish for it was 24 or 25 Leagues to the nearest Place of the Main and above 100 Leagues to Trist which was the next English settlement But contrary to their expectation instead of that Captain Long bid them follow their Work of Seal-killing and making Oyl assuring them that he would undertake at his own peril to carry them safe to Trist. This though it went much against the grain yet at last he so far prevailed by fair Words that they were contented to go on with their Seal-killing till they had filled all their Cask But their greatest work was yet to do viz. how they should get over to the Main and then Coast down before the Wind to Trist. Their Boat was not big enough to transport them so they concluded to cut down the Barks Masts and rip up her Deck to make a float for that purpose This being agreed on the next Morning betimes pursuant to their Resolution they were going to break up their Vessel but it happened that very Night that two New-England Ketches going down to Trist ran on the backside of the Riff where they struck on the Rocks and were bulged And Captain Long and his Crew seeing them in Distress presently took their Boat and went off to help them unlade their Goods and bring them ashore and in requital they furnished the Captain with such tackle and other Necessaries as he wanted and assisted him in the launching his Vessel and lading his Oyl and so they went merrily away for Trist This lucky accident was much talk'd of amongst the C's Crew and so exasperated the New-England Men when they heard the whole story that they were thinking if their Commanders would have suffered them to have thrown him into the Sea to prevent his doing more mischief For they were sure that he by his Art had caused them to run aground The whole of this Relation I had from Captain Long himself From the main to these Islands the Sea deepens gradually till you come to about 30 Fathom Water and when you are 25 or 26 Leagues off shore to the Eastward of them if you steer away West keeping in that depth you cannot miss them The same Rule is to be observed to find any other Island as the Triangles the Isles Des Arenas c. for the Bank runs all along the shore on which are Soundings of equal depth and the Sea appears of a muddy palish Colour but when past the Bank on the North side of it it resumes its natural greeness and is too deep for any Sounding till you are within 30 Leagues of the North side of the Bay of Mexico where by relation there is such another Bank abounding with Oysters running all along the shore But to return to our Voyage Having spent 2 or 3 days among the Alcranes Islands we set sail again and steering in Southerly for the Main having the Wind at E. N. E. we fell in with it a little to Leeward of Cape Catoch plying under the shore till we reach'd the Cape from thence we continued our Course Northerly the Wind at E. by S. The next Land we designed for was Cape Antonio which is the Westermost Point of the Island Cuba and distant from Cape Catoch about 40 Leagues Some when they sail out of the Bay keep along by the Land of Jucatan till they come as far as the Island Cozumel and from thence stretch over towards Cuba and if the Wind favours them any thing they will get as high as Cape Corientes before they fall in with Cuba for in their Passage from thence they are not in so much danger of being hurried away to the North by the Current between the two Capes or to the North of them as we were For taking our Course Northward till the Lat. of 22 d. 30 m. we tack'd again and the Wind at E. steered away S. S. E. 24 hours and having taken an Observation of the Sun as we did the day before found our selves in 23 d. being driven backwards in 24 hours 30 Miles We had then the Channel open between the two Capes but to the North of either Yet at last we got over to the Cuba shore and fell in with the North of the Island about 7 or 8 Leagues from Cape Antonio Now we both saw and ran thro' some of the Colorado Sholes but found a very good Channel among a great many Rocks that appeared above Water Being thus got within the Sholes between them and Cuba we found a pretty wide clear Channel and good Anchoring and advancing further within a League of the Cape we Anchored and went ashore to get Water but found none In the Evening when the Land-wind sprung up we weighed again and doubling the Cape coasted along on the South side of the Island taking the Advantages both of Sea and Land-winds For though we had now been about two Months from Trist and this the time of the Year for Norths yet to our great trouble they had hitherto failed us and besides as I said before our Ketch was such a Leewardly Vessel that we did not yet expect we could possibly reach Jamaica meerly by turning though sometimes assisted by Sea and Land-Winds In about a Week after this we got up with and coasted along the Isle of Pines for 7 or 8 Leagues and then stood off to Sea and the third Morning fell in with the West end of grand Caymanes This Island is about 40 Leagues South from Pines and about 15 to the West of little Caymanes we anchored at the West end about half a Mile from the shore We found no Water nor any Provision but saw many Crocodiles on the Bay some of which would scarce stir out of the way for us We kill'd none of them which we might easily have done though Food began to be short withus indeed had it been in the Months of June or July we might probably have gotten Turtle for they frequent this Island some Years as much as they do little Caymanes We stayed here but 3 or 4 hours and steered back for Pines intending there to hunt for Beef or Hog of both which there is in great plenty The second day in the Morning we fell in with the West end of Pines and running about 4 or 5 Miles Northward we anchored in 4 Fathom Water clean Sand about two Mile from the shore and right-against a small Creek through the Mangroves into a wide Lagune The Isle of
covered with Pantile There is a strong Citadel or Fort at one end planted with many Guns where the Governour resides with a small Garrison to defend it Though this Port Commands the Town and Harbour yet it hath been twice taken First by Sir Christopher Mims who about the Year 1659. having summoned the Governour and afterwards stayed 3 days for an Answer before he Landed his Men yet then took it by Storm and that only with small Arms. I have been told that when he was advised by the Jamaica Privateers to take it by Stratagem in the Night he replied that he scorned to steal a Victory therefore when he went against it he gave them warning of his Approach by his Drums and Trumpets yet he took the Fort at the first onset and immediately became Master of the Place It was taken a second time by English and French Privateers about the Year 1678. by surprize They Landed in the Night about 2 Leagues from the Town and marching into the Country lighted on a Path that brought them thither The next Morning near Sun-rising they entred the Town when many of the Inhabitants were now stirring in their Houses who hearing a noise in the Street look'd out to know the occasion and seeing Armed Men marching towards the Fort supposed them to be some Soldiers of their own Garrison that were returned out of the Country for about a Fortnight or 3 VVeeks before they had sent out a Party to suppress some Indians then in Rebellion a thing very Common in this Country Under favour of this Supposition the Privateers marched through the Streets even to the Fort without the least Opposition Nay the Towns-People bad them Good Morrow and Congratulated their safe return not discovering them to be Enemies till they fired at the Sentinels on the Fort-wall and presently after began a furious Attack and turning two small Guns which they found in the Parade against the Gates of the Fort they soon made themselves Masters of it The Town is not very rich though as I said before the only Sea-Port on all this Coast. The chiefest Manufacture of the Country is Cotton-Cloath this serves for cloathing the Indians and even the poorer sort of Spaniards wear nothing else It is used also for making Sails for Ships and remitted to other parts for the same purpose Besides Cotton-Cloath and Salt fetch'd from the Salinas I know of no other vendible Commodity exported hence Indeed formerly this place was the Scale of the whole Logwood-Trade which is therefore still called Palo i. e. VVood de Campeachy tho' it did not grow nearer than at 12 or 14 Leagues distance from the Town The place where the Spaniards did then cut it was at a River called Champeton about 10 or 12 Leagues to Leeward of Campeachy Town the Coast from thence South the Land pretty high and rocky The Native Indians that lived hereabouts were hired to cut it for a Ryal a Day it then being worth 90 100 01 110 l. per Tun. After the English had taken Jamaica and began to cruise in this Bay they found many Barks laden with it but not knowing its value then they either set them adrift or burned them saving only the Nails and Iron work a thing now usual among the Privateers taking no notice at all of the Cargo till Cap. James having taken a great Ship laden with it and brought her home to England to fit her for a Privateer beyond his Expectation sold his VVood at a great rate tho' before he valued it so little that he burned of it all his Passage home After his return to Jamaica the English visiting this Bay found out the Place where it grew and if they 〈◊〉 Prize at Sea they would go to Champeton 〈◊〉 where they were certain to find large Piles cut to their Hand and brought to the Sea-side ready to be ship'd off This was their Common Practice till at last the Spaniards sent Soldiers thither to prevent their Depredations But by this time the English knew the Trees as growing and understanding their value began to rummage other Coasts of the Main in search of it till according to their desire they found large Groves of it first at Cape Catoch which as I have said before was the first Place where they setled to Logwood-Cutting and loaded many Vessels from thence to Jamaica and other Places But it growing scarce there they found out the Lagune of Trist in the Bay of Campeachy where they followed the same Trade and have ever since continued it even to the time of my being here But to proceed From the River Champeton to Port-Royal is about 18 Leagues the Coast S. S. VV. or S. VV. by S. Low-land with a sandy Bay against the Sea and some Trees by the shore with small Savanahs mixt with small shrubby VVoods within Land all the way There is only one River between Champeton and Port-Royal called Port Escondedo Port-Royal is a broad Entrance into a Salt Lagune of 9 or 10 Leagues long and 3 or 4 wide with 2 Mouths one at each end This Mouth of Port-Royal hath a Barr whereon there is 9 or 10 Foot VVater VVithin the Bar it is deep enough and there is good Anchoring on either side The entrance is about a Mile over and two Miles in length it hath fair sandy Bays on each side with smooth Landing Ships commonly Anchor on the VVeather or East side next Champeton both for the convenience of some VVells there dug on the Bays by the Privateers and Logwood-Cutters as also to ride more out of the Tide which here runs very strong This Place is remarkable enough because from hence the Land trends away VVest and runs so for about 65 or 70 Leagues farther On the VVest side of this Harbour is a low Island called by Us port-royal-Port-Royal-Island which makes one side of the Mouth as the Main does the other It is about 2 Miles wide and 3 Leagues long running East and VVest The East end of this Island is sandy and pretty clear of VVoods with some Grass bearing a small prickly Bur no bigger than a Grey Pea which renders it very troublesom to those that walk bare-foot as the Bay-Men often do There are some Bushes of Burton-wood And a little further to the VVest grow large Sapadillo-Trees whose Fruit is long and very pleasant The rest of the Island is more woody especially the North side which is full of white Mangrove close to the shore On the VVest side of this Island is another small low Island called Trist separated from the former by a small Salt Creek scarce broad enough for a Canoa to padle through The Island Trist is in some Places three Mile wide and about 4 Leagues in Length running E. and W. The East end is swampy and full of white Mangroves and the South side much the same The VVest part is dry and sandy bearing a sort of long Grass growing in Tufts very thin This is a sort of
observed his Method in curing the Horse which was this First he strok'd the sore Place then applying to it a little rough Powder which looked like Tobacco Leaves dryed and crumbled small mumbling some Words to himself he blew upon the part three times and waving his Hands as often over it said it would be well speedily His Fee for the Cure was a White Cock Then coming to me and looking on the Worm in my Ancle he promised to cure it in three Days demanding also a White Cock for his pains and using exactly the same Method with me as he did with the Horse He bad me not open it in three Days but I did not stay so long for the next Morning the Cloath being rubb'd off I unbound it and found the Worm broken off and the Hole quite healed up I was afraid the remaining part would have given some trouble but have not felt any pain there from that day to this To return I told you how I was interrupted in following my Work by the Worms breeding in my Leg. And to compleat my misfortune presently after we had the most violent Storm for above 24 Hours that ever was known in these Parts An Account of which I shall give more particularly in my Discourse of Winds and shall now only mention some Passages I have already said we were four of us in Company at this Place cutting Logwood and by this Storm were reduced to great Inconveniencies for while that lasted we could dress no Victuals nor even now it was over unless we had done it in the Canoa for the highest Land near us was almost 3 Foot under Water besides our Provision too was most of it spoiled except the Beef and Pork which was but little the worse We had a good Canoa large enough to carry us all and seeing it in vain to stay here any longer we all embarked and rowed away to One-Bush-Key about 4 Leagues from our Huts There were 4 Ships riding here when the Storm began but at our arrival we found only one and hoped to have got some Refreshment from it but found very cold entertainment For we could neither get Bread nor Punch nor so much as a Dram of Rum though we offered them Money for it The Reason was they were already over-charged with such as being distressed by the Storm had been forced to take Sanctuary with them seeing we could not be supplied here we asked which way the other three Ships were driven they told us that Capt. Prout of New-England was driven towards Trist and 't was probable he was carried out to Sea unless he stuck on a Sand called the Middle Ground that Capt. Skinner of New-England was driven towards Beef-Island and Captain Chandler of London drove away towards Man-of-War Lagune Beef-Island lies North from One-Bush-Key but the other two Places lie a little on each side One to the East the other to the West So away we went for Beef-Island and coming within a League of it we saw a Flag in the Woods made fast to a Pole and placed on the Top of a high Tree And coming still nearer we at last saw a Ship in the Woods about 200 Yards from the Sea We rowed directly towards her and when we came to the Woods side found a pretty clear Passage made by the Ship through the Woods the Trees being all broke down And about three Foot Water Home to the Ship We rowed in with our Canoa and went Aboard and were kindly Entertained by the Seamen but the Captain was gone Aboard Captain Prout who stuck fast on the middle Ground before-mentioned Captain Prout's Ship was afterwards got off again but the Stumps of the Trees ran clear through the bottom of Captain Skinner's therefore there was no hope of saving her Here we got Victuals and Punch and stayed about two Hours in which time the Captain came Aboard and invited us to stay all Night But hearing some Guns fired in Man-of-War Lagune we concluded that Captain Chandler was there and wanted assistance Therefore we presently rowed away thither for we could do no Service here and before Night found him also stuck fast on a Point of Sand. The Head of his Ketch was dry and at the Stern there was above 4 Foot Water Our coming was very seasonable to Captain Chandler with whom we stayed two Days in which time we got out all his Goods carried off his Anchor c. and so not being able as yet to do him more Service we left him for the present and went away to hunt at Beef-Island At Trist were four Vessels riding before this Storm one of them was driven off to Sea and never heard of afterwards Another was cast dry upon the shore where she lay and was never got off again But the third rode it out Another was riding without the Bar of Trist and she put to Sea and got to New-England but much shattered About three days before this Storm began a small Vessel Commanded by Captain Vally went hence bound to Jamaica This Vessel was given for lost by all the Logwood-Cutters but about 4 Months after she returned thither again and the Captain said he felt nothing of the Storm but when he was about 30 Leagues to Wind-ward of Trist he had a fresh Summasenta-Wind that carried him as high as Cape Condecedo but all the time he saw very black Clouds to the Westward beef-Beef-Island is about 7 Leagues long and 3 or 4 broad It lies in length East and West The East end looks toward the Island Trist and is low drowned Land and near the Sea produceth nothing but white and black Mangrove-Trees The North side lies open to the Main Sea running straight from East to West The Eastermost part for about three Leagues from Trist is Low and Mangrovy at the end of which there is a small salt Creek deep enough at high Water for Boats to pass From this Creek to the West end is 4 Leagues all sandy Bay closed on the backside with a low Sand-bank abounding with thick prickly Bushes like a White-thorn bearing a whitish hard Shell-Fruit as big as a Sloe much like a Calla-bash The West end is washed with the River St. Peter St. Paul This end is over-grown with red Mangroves About 3 Leagues up from the Mouth of this River shoots forth a small Branch running to the Eastward and dividing Beef-Island form the Main on the South and afterwards makes a great Lake of fresh Water called Fresh Water Lagune This afterward falls into a Salt Lake called Man-of-War Lagune which emptys it self into Laguna Termina about 2 Leagues from the S. E. Point of the Island The inside or middle of this Island is a Savannah bordered all round with Trees most Mangrovy either black white or red with some Logwood The South side between the Savannahs and the Mangroves is very rich Sometimes this Land lyes in Ridges higher than the Savannahs The Savannahs produce plenty of long Grass and the Ridges
great goggle Eyes and is very quick sighted It has a thick Neck and strong Legs but weak Footlocks The Hoofs of his Feet are Cloven in the middle And it has two small Hoofs above the Footlock which bending to the Ground when it goes make an Impression on the Sand like four Claws His Tail is short and tapering like a Swines without any Bob at the end This Beast is commonly fat and very good Meat It graseth ashore in wet swampy Ground near Rivers or Ponds but retires to the Water if pursued When they are in the Water they will sink down to the bottom and there walk as on dry Ground They will run almost as fast as a Man but if chased hard they will turn about and look very fierce like a Boar and fight if put to it The Natives of the Country have no Wars with these Creatures but we had many Conflicts with them both on Shore and in the Rivers and though we commonly got the better by killing some and routing the rest yet in the Water we durst not molest them after one Bout which had like to have proved fatal to 3 Men that went in a small Canoa to kill a single Sea-Horse in a River where was 8 or 10 Foot Water The Horse according to his Custom was marching in the bottom of the River and being espied by these Men they wounded him with a long Lance which so enraged the Beast that he rose up immediately and giving a fierce look he opened his Jaws and bit a great piece of the Gunnal or upper edge of the Canoa and was like to over-set it but presently sunk down again to the bottom and the Men made away as fast as they could for fear he should come again The West Branch of the River St. Peter St. Paul after it has run 8 or 9 Leagues N. W loseth it self in Tobasco River about 4 Leagues from the Sea and so makes the Island Tobasco which is 12 Leagues long and 4 broad at the North end for from the River St. Peter St. Paul to the mouth of Tobasco River is accounted 4 Leagues and the Shore lies East and West The first League on the East is Mangrove-Land with some Sandy Bay where Turtle come ashore to lay their Eggs. The West part of it is Sandy Bay quite to the River Tobasco But because here is constantly a great Sea you have no good Landing till within the River The N. W. part of it is full of Guaver Trees of the greatest variety and their fruit the largest and best tasted I have met with and 't is really a very delicious place There are also some Coco-Plums and Grapes but not many The Savannahs here are naturally fenced with Groves of Guavers and produce good Grass for Pasture and are pretty well stock'd with fat Bullocks and I do believe it is from their eating the Guaver Fruit that these Trees are so thick For this fruit is full of small seeds which being swallowed whole by the Cattle are voided whole by them again and then taking root in their Dung spring up abundantly Here are also Deer in great numbers these we constantly find feeding in the Savannahs Mornings and Evenings And I remember an unlucky Accident whilst I was there Two or three Men went out one Evening purposely to hunt when they were in the spots of Savannahs they separated to find their Game and at last it so happened that one of them fired at a Deer and killed it and while he was skinning it he was shot stark dead by one of his Consorts who fired at him mistaking him for a Deer The poor Man was very sorry for so sad a mischance and for fear of the dead Man's Friends durst never go back again to Jamaica The River of Tobasco is the most noted in all the Bay of Campeachy and springs also from the high Mountains of Chiapo but much more to the Westward than that of St. Peter St. Paul From thence it runs N. E. till within 4 Leagues of the Sea where it receives the fore-mentioned Branch of St. Peter St. Paul and then runs North till it falls into the Sea Its Mouth is about two Miles wide and there is a Bar of Sand lying off it with not above 11 or 12 foot Water but a Mile or two within the Mouth at a nook or bending of the River on the East-side there is three Fathom and good Riding without any danger from the strength of the Current The Tide flows up about four Leagues in the dry Season but in the Rains not so far for then the Freshes make the Ebb run very strong During the Norths it over-flows all the low Land for 14 or 15 Leagues up the River and you may then take up fresh Water without the Bar. This River near its Mouth abounds with Cat-fish with some Snooks and Manatee in great plenty there being good feeding for them in many of its Creeks especially in one place on the Starbord side about 2 Leagues from the Sea which runs into the Land 2 or 300 paces and then opens very wide and is so shoal that you may see their backs above Water as they feed a thing so rare that I have heard our Musketo-men say they never saw it any where else On the least noise they will all scamper out into the River yet the Musketo-men seldom miss of striking them These are a sort of Fresh-water Manatee not altogether so big as the Sea kind but otherwise exactly alike in shape and tast and I think rather fatter The Land by the Rivers especially on tne Starbord side is swampy and over-grown with Trees Here are also abundance of Land-Turtle the largest that I ever saw till I came to the Gallapagos Islands in the S. Seas viz. Mangroves Macaws and other sorts that I know not In some places near the River side further up the Country are Ridges of dry Land full of lofty Cabbage and Cotton Trees which make a very pleasant Landskip There is no Settlement within 8 Leagues of the River's Mouth and then you come to a small Breast-work where there is commonly a Spaniard with 8 or 9 Indians posted on each side the River to watch for Boats coming that way And because there are divers Greeks running in from the Savannahs some of these Sentinels are so placed in the Woods that they may look into the Savannahs for fear of being surprized on the back side Yet for all their caution these Sentinels were snap'd by Captain Nevil Commander of a small Brigantine in a second Expedition that he made to take the Town called Villa de Mose His first Attempt miscarried by his being discovered But the second time he got into a Creek a League below these Sentinels and there dragging his Canoas over some Trees that were laid cross it purposely to hinder his passage he came in the night upon their backs in their several Posts so that the Town having no notice of his coming
them there no other way than by Wet and Dry and these wet and dry Seasons do as successively follow each other as Winter and Summer do with us Here are also strong Currents sometimes setting one way sometimes another which though it is hard to describe with that Accuracy which is desirable yet I shall give as particular an Account of them as also of the several sorts of Winds as my own Observations and the Judicious Informations from others will afford me Matter to do Of the General Trade-Wind A View of the General Coasting TRADE-Winds in the great SOUTH OCEAN These general Trade-Winds are only in the Atlantick Ocean which parts Africa from America in the East Indian Ocean and in the Great South-Sea In all these Seas except just under or near the Line they constantly blow without Intermission as well to the South as to the North of the Equator but not with equal force at all Times nor in all Latitudes Neither do these constant Trade-Winds usually blow near the shoar but only in the Ocean at least 30 or 40 Leagues off at Sea clear from any Land especially on the West Coast or side of any Continent For indeed on the East side the Easterly Wind being the true Trade-Wind blows almost home to the shore so near as to receive a check from the Land-Wind and oft-times to admit of the Sea-Breez by which it is drawn from its Course frequently 4 or 5 Points of the Compass But of the Sea-Breez I shall speak in its place In some Places and particularly the South Seas in South Lat. the true Eastern Trade is not found to blow within 150 or near 200 Leagues of the Coast but in North Lat. in those Seas it comes within 30 or 40 Leagues distance of the Shore And this I shall give as a general Rule That in North Lat. these Winds are commonly at E. N. E. in South Lat. at E. S. E. When we go from England and are bound to the East or West Indies or to Guinea we commonly find these Winds in the Lat. of 30 d. sometimes sooner as in the Latitudes of 32 or 35. And it may so happen that we may meet with an Easterly Wind in 40 d. or go out of our own Channel with a North East Wind which sometimes also fails us not till we come into a true Trade-Wind but this is only accidental therefore is not the Wind that I speak of but between 32 and 28 I did never know nor hear that the true Trade-Wind failed If in coming from England we have a North Easterly Wind that brings us hither i. e. into the true Trade-Wind it sometimes stays at North East especially if we keep near the African Shore as Guinea Ships do till we are near the Tropick of Cancer and then comes to the E. N. E. where it settles but commonly it settles there in 28 d. if we are so far off Shore as to receive the true Trade When the Wind is thus settled we have commonly fair Weather and a clear Sky especially if the Sun is in any Southern Sign but if in a Northern Sign the Weather is usually cloudy On the contrary when we are in South Lat. in the Atlantick if the Sun is in Northern Signs the Sky is clear but if in Southern Signs the Sky is cloudy This I once experienced to my sorrow in my return from Bantam in the Year 1671. We had cloudy Weather and brisk Winds while we were crossing the East Indian Ocean and had a very good Passage also about the Cape of good Hope where we had fair clear Weather And steering from thence for the Island St. Hellena where we thought to Water and Refresh as all our English East India Ships do we mist it for want of an Observation For before we came to the Tropick of Capricorn the Sky was again clouded so that we seldom saw the Sun or Stars till we were quite past the Island However we found the Isle of Ascention where we struck two Turtle for this was not the laying time but the beginning of the Cooting or Ingendring Season therefore some few only were drawn hither This was the latter end of November From the time that we thought our selves to the West of St. Hellena we had our VVater measured out to us 2 Pints a Man per day till we came into our Channel This was the first time that I began to know the value of fresh VVater for we took in none in all our way home from Bantam But so much for this Digression The VVinds as I said before as we run to the Southward from England do first settle in the E. N. E. about the Lat. of 28 d. or be sure between that and 24 d. especially when the Sun is to the Southward of the Line but in May June and July you will find the VVinds at E. by S. or E. S. E. These VVinds whether we meet them to the North of the East or to the South of it we find blowing a moderate Gale from our first meeting them in 30 or 28 d. till we come to the Tropick there we find the Trade stronger It commonly blows a good Topsail-gale as we sail large And if we were to sail on a VVind our lower Sails would be enough These brisk Gales blow in the Atlantick Ocean and North of the Equator from the Lat. of 23 to 12 or 14 constantly between the E. N. E. and the E. But between 10 or 12 degrees and the Line they are not so fresh nor constant to that Point for in the Months of July and August the South VVinds do oft times blow even to 11 d. or 12 d. of North Lat. keeping between the S. S. E. and the S. S. VV. or S. VV. but in December and January the true Trade blows within 3 d. or 4 d. of the Equator And as the Sun returns again to the Northward so the Southerly VVinds do increase and draw more to the Northward of the Line till July and then gradually withdraw back again towards the Line VVhen the Sun is in Southern Signs 't is the best time of the Year to cross the Line if bound to the Southward for besides the benefit of the true Trade to bring a Ship near the Line the VVind is then more constant and fresh the VVeather clearer and the VVinds which at other times are between the S. S. E. and S. S. VV. are now at S. E. or S. E. and by E. but in our Summer Months we find nothing but Calms and Tornadoes and tho' Tornadoes do usually rise against the settled VVind yet but few Commanders will endeavour to take the Advantage of the VVinds that come from them but rather furl their Topsails hall up their Corses and lye still till the gust of Wind is past except necessity requires haste for these sudden Tornadoes do not continue long and besides often very violent and fierce so that a Ship with her sails loose would be
which places I have travelled over from Sea to Sea yet because these are but small Tracts of Land in comparison with the two main Bodies of Land of Mexico and Peru and those vast Regions in Asia and Africa lying within the Tropicks I cannot determine whether the Land-Winds are there as I have found them in my small Travels therefore I shall only confine this particular Discourse to these and other Places within my own Observations I shall begin first with the Isthmus of Darien there I have found the Land-Winds in the middle of the Country blowing all Night and till 10 or 11 a Clock in the Morning before I could perceive the Sea-Breeze to arise and that not discernable many times but by the flying of the Clouds especially if I was in a Valley and it was in Vallies that I did chiefly perceive the Land-Winds which blew in some places one way in others contrary or side ways to that according as the Vallies lay pend up between the Mountains and that without any respect to either the North or the South Seas but indeed near either side of the Land they always bent their course towards the nearest Sea unless there was any Hill between them and the Sea and then they took their Course along in the Vallies but from both shores as well from the North as the South they blow right forth into the Sea In the Island of Jamaica these Land-Winds are in the middle of the Country also I have found them so as I travelled from one side of the Island to the other having lain 2 Nights by the way as I had before observed them when I liv'd at 16 Miles Walk where I continued about 6 Months but there and in other Islands the Land-Winds do blow towards the nearest shores and so from thence off to Sea whether the shore's lye East West North or South These Winds blow off to Sea a greater or less distance according as the Coast lies more or less exposed to the Sea-Winds For in some Places we find them brisk 3 or 4 Leagues off shore in other Places not so many Miles and in some Places they scarce peep without the Rocks or if they do sometimes in very fair Weather make a sally out a Mile or 2 they are not lasting but suddenly vanish away though yet there are every Night as fresh Land-Winds ashore at those Places as in any other part of the World Places most remarkable for the fewest or faintest Land-Winds are those that lye most open to the Common Trade-Winds as the East ends of any Islands where the Trade-Winds do blow in upon the Shore or the Head-Lands on Islands or Continents that are open to the Sea-Breez especially where the Trade-Wind blows down side-ways by the Coast for there such Head-Lands as stretch farthest out to Sea are most exposed to Winds from the Sea and have the less benefit of the Land-Breezes I shall give a few Instances of either And first of all begin with the N. E. and S. E. Points of the Island of Jamaica These Points are at the East end of the Island one is at the very Extreme of the North side towards the East the other on the South Extreme towards the same Point at these two Places we seldom light of a Land-Wind nor very often at the end of the Island between them except near the shore For that Reason the Sloop-men of Jamaica that Trade round the Island are commonly put to their Trumps when they come there in their Voyages For if they meet no Land-Wind they are obliged to beat about by turning to wind-ward against the Sea-Breez in the Day time they then curse these Points of Land and are foolishly apt to believe that some Daemon haunts there And if they are 2 or 3 Days in beating about as sometimes they are when they return to Port Royal they will talk as much of their Fatigues as if they had been beating a Month to double the Cape of good Hope though indeed the Men are brisk enough and manage their sloops very well which also are generally very good Boats to sail on a Wind. I think they are the best small Trading-Boats in the King's Dominions Point Pedro on the South-side of the Island is another very bad Point to double if a Ship come from the west-West-end of the Island This Point runs out far into the Sea and is not only destitute of the Common Land-Winds But if there is any Current setting to Leeward here the Sloop-men meet it Therefore they are many times longer beating about it then about the two former Points of the South East and the North East and not without bestowing some Curses upon it Nay some Captains of Privateers when they have been beating about it have stood close in to the Point and fired their Guns to kill the old Daemon that they say inhabits there to disturb poor Seamen I have related these odd Passages to shew how ignorant Men are that cannot see the Reason of it And because I am not willing to leave my Reader in the dark I shall give a few Instances more on this subject The North side of Jucatan at the entrance into the Bay of Campeachy gives us another Instance of bad Land-Winds and commonly where the Land-Winds are scanty the Sea-Breezes are but indifferent neither This will partly appear by what I have observed of them on this Coast between Cape Catoach and Cape Condeseado at the entrance of the Bay of Campeachey which two places are about Eighty Leagues distant for there the Land trends East and West It is a streight Coast and lies all of it equally exposed to the Trade-VVind which is commonly there at E. N. E. To the W. of these Places the Sea and Land-VVinds do as duly succeed each other as on any other Coast but here they are each of them of a Bastard kind for the Sea-Breezes are at N. E. by E. which is no better than a Coast Trade-VVind and the Land-VVind is at E. S. E. or S. E. by E. whereas if the VVinds were as true there as on other Coasts the Sea-Breez would be at N. N. E. sometimes at N. and the Land-VVinds would be at S. S. E. and S. as they are indeed close under the shore which if they do at any time come off from they are very faint The Land on this Coast is low and even and the Land-VVinds ashore are pretty brisk The Capes on the Peruvian Coast in the South Seas will more fully make it appear that Head-Lands do seldom afford any Land-VVinds I shall only Instance in Cape Passao in Lat. 8 Minutes South Cape St. Laurence in Lat. 1 d. South and Cape Blanco in 3 d. South I have pass'd by them all several times and at different Seasons yet did never find any Land-winds there though between these Places there are very good Land-winds Therefore Ships that sail to the Southward against the Breez must beat it about by hard Labour
my Course for Jamaica and found the N. E. Corner to lye in Lat. 18 d. North and in Longi West from Tobago 13 d. The Meridian distance from Tobago is 749 Miles VVest In our passage we saw no Land or Island till we made the N. E. end of Jamaica which lyeth in Longi VVest from the Meridian of Lundy 64 d. 10 m. and VVest from the City of Loango 82 d. 18 m. I shall only add that I am of Opinion that the Gallopagos Islands do lye a great deal further to the VVestward than our Hydrographers do place them according as Mr. Dampier hints p. 100 of his Voyage round the World I am Portbury Octob. 20. 1698. SIR Your most humble Servant John Covant Part of a second Letter from Captain Covant dated from Bristol Decemb. 10. 1697. LETTER II. SIR YOurs of the 6th Instant came to my Hands with the enclosed Queries which I shall endeavour to answer in part as far as my memory will assist me being now from home and at a distance from my Journals c. 1. The Common Trade-Winds on the Coast of Angola blow from the S. VV. to South till about 12 d. Long. from the Meridian of the Isle of Lundy 2. I have found them always in the same Quarter and not subject to shift in all the time I have used this Coast except that at a small distance off the shore they are sometimes a Point more to the VVestward 3. The Dry Season on this Coast I observed to be from the latter end of April to September tho' sometimes intermix'd with some pleasant showers of Rain I cannot be so punctual as to the time of the Wet Seasons 4. The true Sea-Breez I have commonly found here to be from W. S. W. to VV. by S. if it be fair Weather and the Land Breez is at E. by N. But if a Tornado happens it causes the Winds to shift all round the Compass and at last it settles at S. VV. which is the former true Trade Wind. I am yours John Covant CHAP. VI. Of Storms Storms less frequent but more fierce between the Tropicks Presages of their coming Of Norths the Times and Places where they blow Signs of their approach N. Banks A Chocolatta North. A North beneficial to Ships going from Campeachy to Jamaica A very uncommon way of wearing a Ship in a North. Of Souths the Times and Places where they Blow A Description of a South at Jamaica and at the Bay of Campeachy Much Fish kill'd by that Storm Of Hurricanes A Description of a terrible one at Antegoe where abundance of Fish and Sea Fowles were destroyed by it The difference between North Banks and the Clouds before an Hurricane the latter adorned with radiant Colours Tuffoons in the East-Indies the same with Hurricanes in the West Of Monsoons in the East-Indies A Storm called by the Portuguese the Elephanta which is the violentest Monsoon of that Season STorms within the Tropicks are generally known to us by some Name or other to distinguish them from other common Winds and though Storms are not so frequent there as they are in Latitudes nearer the Poles yet are they nevertheless expected yearly in their proper Months and when they do come they blow exceeding fierce though indeed some years they do not come at all or at least do not blow with that fierceness as at other times And as these Winds are commonly very fierce so are they but of a short continuance in comparison with Storms that we meet with in higher Latitudes In the West Indies there are three sorts viz. Norths Souths and Hurricanes In the East-Indies there are only two sorts viz. Monsoones and Tuffoones All these sorts of violent Storms except the Norths are expected near one time of the year and this is taken notice of by those that have been in any of them that they give certain Presages of their being at hand several hours before they come Norths are violent Winds that frequently blow in the Bay of Mexico from October till March They are chiefly expected near the full or change of the Moon all that time of the year but they are most violent in December and January These Winds are not confined to the Bay of Mexico only but there they are most frequent and rage with the greatest Violence They blow on the North side of Cuba very fierce too and in the Gulph of Florida as also about Hispaniola Jamaica c. and in the Channel between Jamaica and Portabel and in all the West Indian Sea between the Islands and the Main as high as the Island Trinidado But from Jamaica Eastward except on the North side of the Island Hispaniola they blow no harder than a pretty brisk Sea Wind. They are here at W. N. W. or N. W. though in the Bay of Mexico they blow strongest at N. N. W. and this is the Season of Westerly Winds in these East parts of the West-Indies as I have before noted in the third Chapter of this Discourse I shall be most particular of them that blow in the Bay of Mexico and what Signs they give us before hand Commonly before a North the Weather is vety serene and fair the Sky clear and but little Wind and that too veering from its proper Point or the common Trade Wind of the Coast and breathing gently at S. at S. W. and West a Day or two before the North comes The Sea also gives notice of a Storm by an extraordinary and long Ebb. For a Day or two before a North there will be hardly any discernable Flood but a constant ebbing of the Sea And the Sea Fowls also before a Storm do commonly hover over the Land which they do not at other times use to do in such great flights and numbers All these Signs concurring may give any Man notice of an approaching Storm but the greatest and most remarkable Sign of a North is a very black Cloud in the N. W. rising above the Horizon to about 10 or 12 degrees the upper edge of the Cloud appears very even and smooth and when once the upper part of the Cloud is 6 8 10 or 12 degrees high there it remains in that even form parallel to the Horizon without any motion and this sometimes 2 or 3 Days before the Storm comes At other times not above 12 or 14 hours but never less This Cloud lying so near the Horizon is not seen but in the Mornings or Evenings at least it does not appear so black as then this is called by English Seamen a North Bank and when ever we see such a Cloud in that part of the World and in the Months before mentioned we certainly provide for a Storm and though sometimes it may happen that such a Cloud may appear several Mornings and Evenings and we may not feel the effects of it or but very little yet we always provide against it for a North never comes without such a foreboding Cloud But if the VVinds
down in Lat. 12 d. 16 m. It is about 20 leagues from the Main and 9 or 10 from Querisao and is accounted 16 or 17 leagues round The Road is on the S. W. side near the middle of the Island where there is a pretty deep Bay runs in Ships that come from the Eastward luff up close to the Eastern shore and let go their Anchor in 60 fathom water within half a Cables length of the shore But at the same time they must be ready with a Boat to carry a Hasar or Rope and make it fast ashore otherwise when the Land-wind comes in the night the Ship would drive off to Sea again for the ground is so steep that no Anchor can hold if once it starts About half a mile to the Westward of this Anchoring place there is a small low Island and a Channel between it and the main Island The Houses are about half a mile within Land right in the Road There is a Governour lives here a Deputy to the Governor of Querisao and 7 or 8 Soldiers with 5 or 6 Families of Indians There is no Fort and the Soldiers in peaceable times have little to do but to eat and sleep for they never watch but in time of War The Indians are Husband-men and plant Maiz and Guinea Corn and some Yames and Potatoes But their chiefest business is about Cattle for this Island is plentifully stocked with Goats and they send great quantities every year in Salt to Querisao There are some Horses and Bulls and Cows but I never saw any Sheep though I have been all over the Island The South side is plain low Land and there are several sorts of Trees but none very large There is a small Spring of water by the Houses which serves the Inhabitants though it is brackish At the West end of the Island there is a good Spring of Fresh water and 3 or 4 Indian Families live there but no Water nor Houses at any other place On the South side near the east-East-end is a good Salt-pond where Dutch Sloops come for Salt From Bon-Airy we went to the Isle of Aves or Birds so called from its great plenty of Birds as Men of War and Boobies but especially Boobies The Booby is a Water-fowl somewhat less than a Hen of a light greyish colour I observ'd the Boobies of this Island to be whiter than others This Bird hath a strong Bill longer and bigger than a Crows and broader at the end her Feet are flat like a Ducks Feet It is a very simple creature and will hardly go out of a mans way In other places they build their Nests on the ground but here they build on Trees which I never saw any where else tho I have seen of them in a great many places Their Flesh is black and eats Fishy but are often eaten by the Privateers Their numbers have been much lessen'd by the French Fleet which lay here till it was lost as I shall give an account The Man of War as it is called by the English is about the bigness of a Kite and in shape like it but black and the Neck is red It lives on Fish yet never lights on the Water but soars aloft like a Kite and when it sees its prey it flys down head foremost to the waters edge very swiftly takes his prey out of the Sea with his Bill and immediately mounts again as swiftly and never touching the Water but with his Bill His Wings are very long His Feet are like other Land-Fowl and he builds on Trees where he finds any but where they are wanting on the ground This Island Aves lies about 8 or 9 leagues to the Eastward of the Island Bon-airy about 14 or 15 leagues from the Main and about the lat of 11d 45m North. It is but small not above 4 mile in length and towards the East end not half a mile broad On the North side it is low Land commonly overflown with the Tide but on the Southside there is a great Rocky Bank of Coral thrown up by the Sea The West end is for near a mile space plain even Savanah Land without any Trees There are 2 or 3 Wells dug by Privateers who often frequent this Island because there is a good Harbor about the middle of it on the North side where they may conveniently careen The Riff or Bank of Rocks on which the French Fleet was lost as I mentioned above runs along from the East end to the Northward about 3 mile then tends away to the Westward making as it were a Half Moon This Riff breaks off all the Sea and there is good riding in even sandy ground to the Westward of it There are 2 or 3 small low sandy Keys or Islands within this Riff about 3 miles from the Main Island The Count de Estree lost his Fleet here in this manner Coming from the Eastward he fell in on the back of the Riff and fired Guns to give warning to the rest of his Fleet But they supposing their Admiral was engaged with Enemies hoised up their Topsails and crowded all the Sail they could make and ran full sail ashore after him all within half a mile of each other For his Light being in the Main Top was an unhappy Beacon for them to follow and there escaped but one Kings-ship and one Privateer The Ships continued whole all day and the Men had time enough most of them to get ashore yet many perished in the Wreck and many of those that got safe on the Island for want of being accustomed to such hardships died like rotten Sheep But the Privateers who had been used to such accidents lived merrily from whom I had this relation and they told me that if they had gone to Jamaica with 30 l. a Man in their Pockets they could not have enjoyed themselves more For they kept in a Gang by themselves and watched when the Ships broke to get the Goods that came from them and though much was staved against the Rocks yet abundance of Wine and Brandy floated over the Riff where these Privateers waited to take it up They lived here about 3 weeks waiting an opportunity to transport themselves back again to Hispaniola in all which time they were never without 2 or 3 Hogsheads of Wine and Brandy in their Tents and Barrels of Beef and Pork which they could live on without Bread well enough tho the new-comers out of France could not There were about 40 Frenchmen on board in one of the Ships where there was good store of Liquor till the after part of her broke away and floated over the Riff and was carry'd away to Sea with all the men drinking and singing who being in drink did not mind the danger but were never heard of afterwards In a short time after this great Shipwrack Captain Pain Commander of a Privateer of 6 Guns had a pleasant accident befel him at this Island He came hither to Careen intending to fit
himself very well for here lay driven on the Island Masts Yards Timbers and many things that he wanted therefore he hal'd into the Harbour close to the Island and unrigg'd his Ship Before he had done a Dutch Ship of 20 Guns was sent from Querisao to take up the Guns that were lost on the Riff But seeing a Ship in the Harbour and knowing her to be a French Privateer they thought to take her first and came within a mile of her and began to fire at her intending to warp in the next day for it is very narrow going in Captain Pain got ashore some of his Guns and did what he could to resist them tho he did in a manner conclude he must be taken But while his men were thus busied he spy'd a Dutch Sloop turning to get into the Road and saw her in the evening anchor at the West end of the Island This gave him some hope of making his escape which he did by sending two Canoas in the night aboard the Sloop who took her and got considerable purchase in her and he went away in her making a good Reprizal and leaving his own empty Ship to the Dutch Man of War There is another Island to the Eastward of the Isle of Aves about 4 leagues called by Privateers the littleIsle of Aves which is overgrown with Mangrove-trees I have seen it but was never on it There are no Inhabitants that I could learn on either of these Islands but Boobies and a few other Birds While we were at the Isle of Aves we careen'd Captain Wright s Bark and scrubb'd the Sugar-prize and got 2 Guns out of the Wrecks continuing here till the beginning of Feb. 1681 2. We went from hence to the Isles Roca's to careen the Sugar-prize which the Isle of Aves was not a place so convenient for Accordingly we haled close to one of the small Islands and got our Guns ashore the first thing we did and built a Breastwork on the point and planted all our Guns there to hinder an Enemy from coming to us while we lay on the Careen Then we made a House and cover d it with our Sails to put our goods and provisions in While we lay here a French Man of War of 36 Guns came thro the Keys or Little Islands to whom we sold about 10 Tun of Sugar I was aboard twice or thrice and very kindly welcomed both by the Captain and his Lieutenant who was a Cavalier of Malta and they both offer d me great encouragement in France if I would go with them but I ever design'd to continue with those of my own Nation The Islands Roca s are a parcel of small uninhabited Islands lying about the Lat. of 11 d. 40 〈◊〉 about 15 or 16 leagues from the Main and about 20 leagues N. W. b. W. from Tortuga and 6 or 7 leagues to the Westward of Orchilla another Island lying about the same distance from the Main which Island I have seen but was never at it Roca's stretch themselves East and West about 5 leagues and their breadth is about 3 leagues The northernmost of these Islands is the most remarkable by reason of a high white rocky Hill at the West end of it which may be seen a great way and on it there are abundance of Tropick Birds Men of War Booby and Noddys which breed there The Booby and Man of War I have described already The Noddy is a small Black Bird much about the bigness of the English Black-bird and indifferent good meat They build in Rocks We never find them far off from Shore I have seen of them in other places but never saw any of their Nests but in this Island where there is great plenty of them The Tropick Bird is as big as a Pigeon but round and plump like a Partridge They are all white except two or three Feathers in each Wing of a light grey Their Bills are of a yellowish colour thick and short They have one long Feather or rather a Quill about 7 inches long grows out at the Rump which is all the Tail they have They are never seen far without either Tropick for which reason they are called Tropick-birds They are very good food and we meet with them a great way at Sea and I never saw of them any where but at Sea and in this Island where they build and are found in great plenty By the Sea on the South side of that high Hill there is fresh Water comes out of the Rocks but so slowly that it yields not above 40 gallons in 24 hours and it tastes so copperish or aluminous rather and rough in the mouth that it seems very unpleasant at first drinking but after 2 or 3 days any other Water will seem to have no taste The middle of this Island is low plain Land overgrown with long Grass where there are multitudes of small grey Fowls no bigger than a Black-bird yet lay Eggs bigger than a Magpy's and they are therefore by Privateers called Egg-birds The East end of the Island is overgrown with black Mangrove Trees There are three sorts of Mangrove-Trees black red and white The black Mangrove is the largest Tree the body about as big as an Oak and about 20 feet high It is very hard and serviceable Timber but extraordinary heavy therefore not much made use of for building The red Mangrove groweth commonly by the Sea side or by Rivers or Creeks The body is not so big as that of the black Mangrove but always grows out of many roots about the bigness of a Mans Leg some bigger some less which at about 6 8 or 10 foot above the ground joyn into one trunk or body that seems to be supported by so many artificial Stakes Where this sort of Tree grows it is impossible to march by reason of these Stakes which grow so mixt one among another that I have when forced to go through them gone half a mile and never set my foot on the ground stepping from root to root The Timber is hard and good for many uses The inside of the Bark is red and it is used for tanning of Leather very much all over the West Indies The white Mangrove never groweth so big as the other two sorts neither is it of any great use Of the young Trees Privateers use to make Looms or Handles for their Oars for it is commonly strait but not very strong which is the fault of them Neither the black nor white Mangrove grow towering up from stilts or rising roots as the red doth but the body immediately out of the ground like other Trees The Land of this East end is light Sand which is sometimes overflown with the Sea at Spring-tides The Road for Ships is on the South side against the middle of the Island The rest of the Islands of Roca's are low The next to this on the South side is but small flat and even without Trees bearing only Grass On the South side of it
without any Tree only some Dildo-bushes growing on them and I do believe there is no Water on any one of them for there was no appearance of any Water The two Northernmost we could not come near but the Southermost we came close by but could not strike ground till within two Cables length of the shore and there found it to be foul rocky ground From the time that we were in 10 degrees South till we came to these Islands we had the Wind between E. N. E. and the N. N. E. fair weather and a brisk gale The day that we made these Islands we saw great sholes of small Lobsters which coloured the Sea Red in spots for a mile in compass and we drew some of them out of the Sea in our Water-Buckets They were no bigger than the top of a Mans little finger yet all their Claws both great and small like a Lobster I never saw any of this sort of Fish naturally red but here for ours on the English Coast which are black naturally are not red till they are boil'd neither did I ever any where else meet with any Fish of the Lobster shape so small as these unless it may be Shrimps or Prawns Captain Swan and Captain Eaton met also with shoals of this Fish in much the same Latitude and Longitude Leaving therefore the Sible de Ward Islands as having neither good Anchorage nor Water we sailed on directing our course for the Streights of Magellan But the Winds hanging in the westerbord and blowing hard oft put us by our Topsails so that we could not fetch it The 6th day of February we fell in with the Streights Le Mair which is very high Land on both sides and the Streights very narrow We had the Wind at N. N. W. a fresh gale and seeing the opening of the Streights we ran in with it till within four mile of the mouth and then it fell calm and we found a strong tide setting out of the Streights to the Northward and like to founder our Ship but whether flood or ebb I know not only it made such a short cockling Sea as if we had been in a race or place where two tides meet For it ran every way sometimes breaking in over our Waste sometimes over our Poop sometimes over our Bow and the Ship tossed like an Egg-shell so that I never felt such uncertain jerks in a Ship At 8 a clock in the evening we had a small Breez at W. N. W. and steered away to the Eastward intending to go round the States Island the East end of which we reached the next day by noon having a fresh breez all night The 7th day at noon being off the East End of States Island I had a good observation of the Sun and found my self in lat 54 deg 52 min. South At the East end of States Island are three small Islands or rather Rocks pretty high and white with the Dung of Fowls Wherefore having observed the Sun we haled up South designing to pass round to the Southward of Cape Horne which is the Southermost Land of Terra del Fuego The Winds hung in the western quarter betwixt the N. W. and the West so that we could not get much to the Westward and we never saw Terra del Fuego after that evening that we made the Streight Le Mair I have heard that there have been Smokes and Fires on Terra del Fuego not on the tops of Hills but in Plains and Valleys seen by those who have sailed through the Streights of Magellan supposed to be made by the Natives We did not see the Sun at rising or setting in order to take an amplitude after we left the Sibble de Wards till we got into the South Seas therefore I know not whether the variation increased any more or no. Indeed I had an observation of the Sun at noon in lat 59 deg 30 min. and we were then standing to the Southward with the Wind at W. by N. and that night the Wind came about more to the Southward of the West and we tackt I was then in lat 60 by reckning which was the farthest South latitude that ever I was in The 14th day of February being in lat 57. and to the West of Cape Horne we had a violent Storm which held us till the third day of March blowing commonly at S. W. and S. W. by W. and W. S. W. thick weather all the time with small drizling Rain but not hard We made a shift however to save 23 Barrels of Rain-water besides what we drest our Victuals withal March the third the Wind shifted at once and came about at South blowing a fierce gale of Wind soon after it came about to the Eastward and we stood into the South Seas The 9th day having an observation of the Sun not having seen it of late we found ourselves in lat 47 d. 10 m. and the variation to be but 15 d. 30 m. East The Wind stood at S. E. we had fair weather and a moderate gale and the 17th day we were in lat 36 by observation and then found the variation to be but 8 degrees East The 19th day when we looked out in the morning we saw a Ship to the Southward of us coming with all the Sail she could make after us we lay muzled to let her come up with us for we supposed her to be a Spanish Ship come from Baldivia bound to Lima we being now to the Northward of Baldivia and this being the time of the year when Ships that trade thence to Baldivia return home They had the same opinion of us and therefore made sure to take us but coming nearer we both found our mistakes This proved to be one Captain Eaton in a Ship sent purposely from London for the South Seas We hailed each other and the Captain came on board and told us of his actions on the Coast of Brazil and in the River of Plate He met Captain Swan one that came from England to trade here at the East Entrance into the Streights of Magellan and they accompanied each other through the Streights and were separated after they were through by the Storm before mentioned Both we and Captain Eaton being bound for John Fernando's Isle we kept company and we spared him Bread and Beef and he spared us Water which he took in as he passed through the Streights March the 22d 1684. we came in sight of the Island and the next day got in and anchored in a Bay at the South end of the Island in 25 fathom water not two Cables lengths from the shore We presently got out our Canoa and went ashore to see for a Moskito Indian whom we left here when we were chaced hence by three Spanish Ships in the year 1681. a little before we went to Arica Captain Watlin being then our Commander after Captain Sharp was turned out This Indian lived here alone above 3 years and altho he was several
Eaton in the Streights of Magellan the Spaniards of Baldivia were doubtless informed of us by him suspecting him also to be one of us tho he was not Upon this News the Viceroy of Lima sent Expresses to all the Sea Ports that they might provide themselves against our Assaults We immediately steered away for the Island Lobos which lieth in lat 6 deg 24 min. South lat I took the Elevation of it ashore with an Astrolabe and its 5 leagues from the Main it is called Lobos de la Mar to distinguish it from another that is not far from it and extremely like it called Lobos de la Terra for it lies nearer the Main Lobos or Lovos is the Spanish Name for a Seal of which there are great plenty about these and several other Islands in these Seas that go by this Name The 9th of May we arrived at this Isle of Lobos de la Mar and came to an anchor with our Prize This Lobos consists indeed of two little Islands each about a milâ—…und of an indifferent heighth a small Channel between fit for Boats only and several Rocks lying on the North side of the Islands a little way from shore There is a small Cove or Sandy Bay sheltred from the Winds at the West end of the Eastermost Island where Ships may Careen The rest of the shore as well round the 2 Islands as between them is a Rocky Coast consisting of small Cliffs Within Land they are both of them partly Rocky and partly Sandy Barren without any fresh Water Tree Shrub Grass or Herbs or any Land Animals for the Seals and Sea-Lyons come ashore here but Fowls Of which there are great multitudes as Boobies but mostly Penguins which I have seen plentifully all over the South Seas on the Coast of Newfoundland and of the Cape of Good Hope They are a Sea Fowl about as big as a Duck and such Feet but a sharp Bill feeding on Fish They do not fly but flutter having rather stumps like a young Gossins than Wings And these are instead of Fins to them in the Water Their Feathers are Downy Their flesh is but ordinary food but their Eggs are good Meat There is another sort of small black Fowl that make holes in the Sand for their Night habitations whose flesh is good sweet meat I never saw any of them but here and at John Fernandos There is good riding between the Eastermost Island and the Rocks in 10 12 or 14 fathom for the wind is commonly at S. or S. S. E. and the Eastermost Island lying East and West shelters that Road. Here we scrubb'd our Ships and being in a readiness to sail the Prisoners were Examined to know if any of them could conduct us to some Town where we might make some attempt For they had before informed us that we were discried by the Spaniards and by that we knew that they would send no Riches by Sea so long as we were here Many Towns were considered on as Guiaquil Zana Truxillo and others At last Truxillo was pitched on as the most important therefore the likeliest to make us a Voyage if we could Conquer it which we did not much question though we knew it to be a very populous City But the greatest difficulty was in Landing for Guanchaquo which is the nearest Sea-port to it but 6 miles off is an ill place to Land since sometimes the very Fishermen that live there are not able to go out in 3 or 4 days However the 17th of May in the Afternoon our Men were mustered of both Ships Companies and their Arms proved We were in all 108 Men fit for Service besides the sick and the next day we intended to Sail and take the Wood Prize with us But the next day one of our Men being ashoar betimes on the Island discried three Sail bound to the North-ward two of them without the Island to the Westward the other between it and the Continent We soon got our Anchors up and chased and Captain Eaton who drew the least draught of Water put through between the Westermost Island and the Rocks and went after those two that were without the Islands We in Captain Cook 's Ship went after the other which stood in for the Main-Land but we soon fetched her up and having taken her stood in again with her to the Island for we saw that Captain Eaton wanted no help having taken both those that he went after He came in with one of his Prizes but the other was so far to Leeward and so deep that he could not then get her in but he hoped to get her in the next day but being deep laden as designed to go down before the wind to Panama she would not bear Sail. The 19th day she turned all day but got nothing nearer the Island Our Moskito strikers according to their custom went out and struck 6 Turtles for here are indifferent plenty of them These Ships that we took the day before came from Guanchaquo all three laden with Flower bound for Panama Two of them were laden as deep as they could swim the other was not above half laden but was ordered by the Vice-Roy of Lima to sail with the other two or else she should not sail till we were gone out of the Seas for he hoped they might escape us by setting out early In the biggest Ship was a Letter to the President of Panama from the Vice-Roy of Lima assuring him that there were Enemies come into that Sea for which reason he had dispatched these three Ships with Flower that they might not want for Panama is supplied from Peru and desired him to be frugal of it for he knew not when he should send more In this Ship were likewise 7 or 8 Tuns of Marmalate of Quinees and a stately Mule sent to the President and a very large Image of the Virgin Mary in Wood Carved and Painted to adorn a new Church at Panama and sent from Lima by the Vice-Roy for this great Ship came from thence not long before She brought also from Lima 800000 pieces of Eight to carry with her to Panama but while she lay at Guanchaco taking in her lading of Flower the Merchants hearing of Capt. Swan's being at Baldivia ordered the Money ashore again These Prisoners likewise informed us that the Gentlemen Inhabitants of Truxillo were building a Fort at Guanchaco which is the Sea Port for Truxillo close by the Sea purposely to hinder the designs of any that should attempt to land there Upon this news we altered our former resolutions and resolved to go with our three Prizes to the Gallapagos which are a great many large Islands lying some under the Equator others on each side of it I shall here omit the description of Truxillo because in my Appontlix at the latter end of the Book I intend to give a general Relation of most of the Towns of note on this Coast from Baldivia to Panama and from thence towards
always go before the Wind being unable to ply against it and therefore are fit only for these Seas where the Wind is always in a manner the same not varying above a point or two all the way from Lima till such time as they come into the Bay of Panama and even there they meet with no great Sea but sometimes Northerly winds and then they lower their Sails and drive before it waiting a change All their care then is only to keep off from Shore for they are so made that they cannot sink at Sea These Rafts carry 60 or 70 Tuns of Goods and upwards their Cargo is chiefly Wine Oyl Flower Sugar Quito-cloath Soap Goat-skins drest c. The Float is manag'd usually by 3 or 4 Men who being unable to return with it against the Trade-wind when they come to Panama dispose of the goods and bottom together getting a passage back again for themselves in some Ship or Boat bound to the Port they came from and there they make a new Bark-log for their next Cargo The smaller sort of Bark-logs described before which lye flat on the Water and are used for Fishing or carrying Water to Ships or the like half a Tun or a Tun at a time are more governable than the other tho they have Masts and Sails too With these they go out at night by the help of the Land-wind which is seldom wanting on this Coast and return back in the day time with the Sea-wind This sort of Floats are used in many places both in the East and West Indies On the Coast of Coromandel in the East Indies they call them Catamarans These are but one Log or two sometimes of a sort of light Wood and are made without Sail or Rud der and so small that they carry but one Man whose legs and breech are always in the Water and he manages his Log with a Paddle appearing at a distance like a Man sitting on a Fish's back The Country about Payta is mountainous and barren like all the rest of the Kingdom of Peru. There is no Towns of consequence nearer it than Piura which is a large Town in the Country 40 miles distant It lieth by report of our Spanish Prisoners in a Valley which is watered with a small River that disembogues it self into the Bay of Chirapce in about 7d of North latitude This Bay is nearer to Piura than Payta yet all Goods imported by Sea for Piura are landed at Payta for the Bay of Chirapee is full of dangerous sholes and therefore not frequented by shipping The Road of Payta is one of the best on the Coast of Peru. It is sheltered from the South-west by a point of Land which makes a large Bay and smooth Water for Ships to ride in There is room enough for a good Fleet of Ships and good anchoring in any depth from 6 fathom water to 20 fathom Right against the Town the nearer the Town the shallower the water and the smoother the riding it is clean Sand all over the Bay Most Ships passing either to the North or the South touch at this place for water for tho here is none at the Town yet those Indian Fishermen of Colan will and do supply all Ships very reasonably and good water is much prized on all this Coast through the scarcity of it November the 3d at 6 a clock in the morning our Men landed about 4 miles to the South of the Town and took some Prisoners that were sent thither to watch for fear of us and these Prisoners said that the Governor of Piura came with 100 armed Men to Payta the night before purposely to oppose our landing there if we should attempt it Our Men marched directly to the Fort on the Hill and took it without the loss of one Man Hereupon the Governor of Piura with all his Men and the Inhabitants of the Town ran away as fast as they could Then our Men entered the Town and found it emptied both of Money and Goods there was not so much as a Meal of Victuals left for them The Prisoners told us a Ship had been here a little before and burnt a great Ship in the Road but did not land their Men and that here they put ashore all their Prisoners and Pilots We knew this must be Captain Eaton's Ship which had done this and by these circumstances we supposed he was gone to the East Indies it being always designed by him The Prisoners told us also that since Captain Eaton was here a small Bark had been off the Harbor and taken a pair of Bark-logs a fishing and made the Fishermen bring aboard 20 or 30 Jars of fresh water This we supposed was our Bark that was sent to the Lobos to seek Captain Eaton In the evening we came in with our Ships and anchored before the Town in 10 fathom water near a mile from the shore Here we staid till the sixth day in hopes to get a Ransom for the Town Our Captains demanded 300 Packs of Flower 3000 pound of Sugar 25 Jars of Wine and 1000 Jars of Water to be brought off to us but we got nothing of it Therefore Captain Swan ordered the Town to be fir'd which was presently done Then all our Men came aboard and Captain Swan ordered the Bark which Captain Harris commanded to be burnt because she did not sail well At night when the Land Wind came off we sailed from hence towards Lobos The 10th day in the evening we saw a Sail bearing N. W. by N. as far as we could well discern her on our Deck We immediately chased separating our selves the better to meet her in the night but we mist her Therefore the next morning we again trimb'd sharp and made the best of our way to the Lobos de la Mar. The 14th day we had sight of the Island Lobos de Terra it bore East from us we stood in towards it and betwixt 7 and 8 a clock in the night came to an anchor at the N. E. end of the Island in 14 fathom water This Island at Sea is of an indifferent height and appears like Lobos de la Mar. About a quarter of a mile from the North end there is a great hollow Rock and a good Channel between where there is 7 fathom water The 15th day we went ashore and found abundance of Penguins and Boobies and Seal in great quanties We sent aboard of all these to be drest for we had not tasted any flesh in a great while before therefore some of us did eat very heartily Captain Swan to encourage his Men to eat this course flesh would commend it for extraordinary good food comparing the Seal to roasting Pig the Boobies to Hens and the Penguins to Ducks this he did to train them to live contentedly on course Meat not knowing but we might be forced to make use of such food before we departed out of these Seas for it is generally seen among Privateers that nothing imboldens them
never see one Pearl Oyster about them nor any Pearl Oyster Shells but on the other Oysters I have made many a Meal there The northermost Island of all this range is called Pacheca or Pacheque This is but a small Island distant from Panama 11 or 12 leagues The Southermost of them is called St. Pauls Besides these two I know no more that are called by any particular name though there are many that far exceed either of the two in bigness Some of these Islands are planted with Plantains and Bonanas and there are Fields of Rice on others of them The Gentlemen of Panama to whom they belong keep Negroes there to plant weed and husband the Plantations Many of them especially the largest are wholly untill'd yet very good fat Land full of large Trees These unplanted Islands shelter many Runaway Negroes who abscond in the Woods all day and in the night boldly pillage the Plantain Walks Betwixt these Islands and the Main is a Channel of 7 or 8 leagues wide there is good depth of Water and good anchoring all the way The Islands border thick on each other yet they make many small narrow deep Channels fit only for Boats to pass between most of them At the S. E. end about a league from St. Pauls Island there is a good place for Ships to careen or hale ashore It is surrounded with the Land and hath a good deep Channel on the North side to go in at The tide riseth here about 10 foot perpendicular We brought our Ships into this place the 25th day but were forced to tarry for a Spring Tide before we could have Water enough to clean them therefore we first cleaned our Barks that they might cruise before Panama while we lay here The 27th day our Barks being clean we sent them out with 20 Men in each The fourth day after they returned with a Prize laden with Maiz or Indian Corn Salt Beef and Fowls She came from Lavelia and was bound to Panama Lavelia is a Town we once designed to attempt It is pretty large and stands on the Banks of a River on the North side of the Bay of Panama 6 or 7 leagues from the Sea Nata is another such Town standing in a Plain near another branch of the same River In these Towns and some others on the same Coast they breed Hogs Fowls Bulls and Cows and plant Maize purposely for the support of Panama which is supplied with Provision mostly from other Towns and the neighbouring Islands The Beef and Fowl our Men took came to us in a good time for we had eaten but little Flesh since we left the Island Plata The Harbor where we careen'd was incompassed by three Islands and our Ships rode in the middle That on which we haled our Ships ashore was a little Island on the North side of the Harbor The was a fine small sandy Bay but all the rest of the Island was invironed with Rocks on which at low Water we did use to gather Oysters Clams Muscles and Limpits The Clam is a sort of Oyster which grows so fast to the Rock that there is no separating it from thence therefore we did open it where it grows and take out the Meat which is very large fat and sweet Here are a few common Oysters such as we have in England of which sort I have met with none in these Seas but here at Point Garachina at Puna and on the Mexican Coast in the lat of 23 d. North. I have a Manuscript of Mr. Teat Captain Swan's chief Mate which gives an account of Oysters plentifully found in Port St. Julian on the East side and somewhat to the North of the Streights of Magellan but there is no mention made of what Oysters they are Here are some Guanoes but we found no other sort of Land Animal Here are also some Pigeons and Turtle-Doves The rest of the Islands that incompass this Harbor had of all these sorts of Creatures Our Men therefore did every day go over in Canoas to them to fish fowl or hunt for Guanoes but having one Man surprized once by some Spaniards lying there in Ambush and carried off by them to Panama we were after that more cautious of straggling The 14th day of February 1685. we made an end of cleaning our Ship fill'd all our Water and stock'd our selves with Fire-wood The 15th day we went out from among the Islands and anchored in the Channel between them and the Main in 25 fathom Water fast oazy ground The Plate Fleet was not yet arrived therefore we intended to cruise before the City of Panama which is from this place about 25 leagues The next day we sailed towards Panama passing in the Channel between the Kings Islands and the Main It is very pleasant sailing here having the Main on one side which appears in divers forms It is beautified with many small Hills cloathed with Woods of divers sorts of Trees which are always green and flourishing There are some few small high Islands within a league of the Main scattering here and there one These are partly woody partly bare and they as well as the Main appear very pleasant The Kings Islands are on the other side of this Channel and make also a very lovely prospect as you sail by them These as I have already noted are low and flat appearing in several shapes according as they are naturally formed by many small Creeks and Branches of the Sea The 16th day we anchored at Pacheque in 17 fathom Water about a league from the Island and sailed from thence the next day with the Wind at N. N. E. directing our course towards Panama When we came abrest of Old Panama we anchored and sent our Canoa ashore with our Prisoner Don Diego de Pinas with a Letter to the Governor to treat about an Exchange for our Man they had spirited away as I said and another Captain Harris left in the River of St. Maria the year before coming over Land Don Diego was desirous to go on this Errand in the name and with the consent of the rest of our Spanish Prisoners but by some accident he was killed before he got ashore as we heard afterwards Old Panama was formerly a famous place but it was taken by Sir Henry Morgan about the year 1673. and at that time great part of it was burned to ashes and it was never re-edified since New Panama is a very fair City standing close by the Sea about 4 mile from the Ruines of the Old Town It gives name to a large Bay which is famous for a great many navigable Rivers some whereof are very rich in Gold it is also very pleasantly sprinkled with Islands that are not only profitable to their Owners but very delightful to the Passengers and Seamen that sail by them some of which I have already described It is incompassed on the backside with a pleasant Country which is full of small Hills and Valleys beautified with
from all parts But Panama as it is not overcharg d with men so unreasonably as the other tho very full so it enjoys a good air lying open to the Sea wind which riseth commonly about 10 or 11 a clock in the morning and continues till 8 or 9 a clock at night then the Land wind comes and blows till 8 or 9 in the morning There are no Woods nor Marshes near Panama but a brave dry Champain land not subject to fogs nor mists The wet season begins in the latter end of May and continues till November At that time the Sea breezes are at S. S. W. and the Land winds at N. At the dry season the winds are most betwixt the E. N. E. and the North Yet off in the Bay they are commonly at South but of this I shall be more particular in my Chapter of Winds in the Appendix The rains are not so excessive about Panama it self as on either side of the Bay yet in the months of June July and August they are severe enough Gentlemen that come from Peru to Panama especially in these months cut their hair close to preserve them from Fevers for the place is sickly to them because they come out of a Country which never hath any Rains or Fogs but enjoys a constant serenity but I am apt to believe this City is healthy enough to any other people Thus much for Panama The 20th day we went and anchored within a league of the Islands Perico which are only 3 little barren rocky Islands in expectation of the President of Panama s Answer to the Letter I said we sent him by Don Diego treating about exchange of Prisoners this being the day on which he had given us his Parole to return with an Answer The 21st day we took another Baâ—…k laden with Hogs Fowl Salt Beef and Molossoes she came from Lavelia and was going to Panama In the afternoon we sent another Letter ashore by a young Mostiso a mixt brood of Indians and Europeans directed to the President and 3 or 4 Copies of it to be dispersed abroad among the common People This Letter which was full of Threats together with the young Man's managing the business wrought so powerfully among the common People that the City was in an uproar The President immediately sent a Gentleman aboard who demanded the Flower Prize that we took off of Gallo and all the Prisoners for the Ransom of our two Men but our Captains told him they would exchange Man for Man The Gentleman said he had not orders for that but if we would stay till the next day he would bring the Governours answer The next day he brought aboard our two Men and had about 40 Prisoners in exchange The 24th day we run over to the Island Tabago Tabago is in the Bay and about 6 leagues South of Panama It is about 3 mile long and 2 broad a high mountainous Island On the North side it declines with a gentle descent to the Sea The Land by the Sea is of a black Mold and deep but toward the top of the Mountain it is strong and dry The North side of this Island makes a very pleasant shew it seems to be a Garden of Fruit inclosed with many high Trees the chiefest Fruits are Plantains and Bonana's They thrive very well from the foot to the middle of it but those near the top are but small as wanting moisture Close by the Sea there are many Coco Nut Trees which make a very pleasant sight Within the Coco Nut Trees there grow many Mammet Trees The Mammet is a large tall and streight-bodied Tree clean without Knots or Limbs for 60 or 70 foot or more The Head spreads abroad into many small Limbs which grow pretty thick and close together The Bark is of a dark grey colour thick and rough full of large chops The Fruit is bigger than Quince it is round and covered with a thick Rind of a grey colour When the Fruit is ripe the Rind is yellow and tough and it will then peel off like Leather but before it is ripe it is brittle the Juice is then white and clammy but when ripe not so The ripe Fruit under the Rind is yellow as a Carret and in the middle are two large rough Stones flat and each of them much bigger than an Almond The Fruit smells very well and the taste is answerable to the smell The S. W. end of the Island hath never been cleared but is full of Fire-wood and Trees of divers sorts There is a very fine small Brook of fresh Water that springs out of the side of the Mountain and gliding through the Grove of Fruit-trees falls into the Sea on the North side There was a small Town standing by the Sea with a Church at one end but now the biggest part of it is destroyed by the Privateers There is good anchoring right against the Town about a mile from the shore where you may have 16 or 18 fathom Water soft oazy ground There is a small Island close by the N. W. end of this called Tabogilla which is a small Channel to pass between There is another woody Island about a mile on the N. E. side of Tabago and a good Channel between them this Island hath no Name that ever I heard While we lay at Tabago we had like to have had a scurvy trick plaid us by a pretended Merchant from Panama who came as by stealth to traffick with us privately a thing common enough with the Spanish Merchants both in the North and South Seas notwithstanding the severe Prohibitions of the Governours who yet sometimes connive at it and will even trade with the Privateers themselves Our Merchant was by agreement to bring out his Bark laden with Goods in the night and we to go and anchor at the South of Perico Out he came with a Fireship instead of a Bark and approached very near haling us with the Watch word we had agreed upon We suspecting the worst call d to them to come to an anchor and upon their not doing so fired at them when immediately their Men going out into the Canoas set fire to their Ship which blew up and burnt close by us so that we were forced to cut our Cables in all haste and scamper away as well as we could The Spaniard was not altogether so politick in appointing to meet us at Perico for there we had Sea-room whereas had he come thus upon us at Tabago the Land-wind bearing hard upon us as it did we must either have been burnt by the Fireship or upon loosing our Cables have been driven ashore But I suppose they chose Perico rather for the Scene of their Enterprize partly because they might there best sculk among the Islands and partly because if their Exploit fail d they could thence escape best from our Canoas to Panama but 2 leagues off During this Exploit Captain Swan whose Ship was less than ours and so not so much
much esteemed by them for I have met with plenty of them in many places in the North Seas where the Spaniards are settled as in the Bay of Campechy on the Coast of Cartagena and the Coast of Carraccos and there are some in Jamaica which were planted by the Spaniards when they possessed that Island The Mammee-Sappota Tree is different from the Mammee described at the Isle of Tabago in this Chapter It is not so big or so tall neither is the Fruit so big or so round The rind of the Fruit is thin and brittle the inside is a deep red and it has a rough flat long stone This is accounted the principal Fruit of the West Indies It is very pleasant and wholsome I have not seen any of these on Jamaica but in many places in the West Indies among the Spaniards There is another sort of Mammee-tree which is called the wild Mammee This bears a Fruit which is of no value but the Tree is streight tall and very tough and therefore principally used for making Masts The Star Apple Tree grows much like the Quince Tree but much bigger It is full of leaves and the leaf is broad of an oval shape and of a very dark green colour The Fruit is as big as a large Apple which is commonly so covered with leaves that a man can hardly see it They say this is a good Fruit I did never taste any but have seen both of the Trees and Fruit in many places on the Main on the North side of the Continent and in Jamaica When the Spaniards possest that Island they planted this and other sorts of Fruit as the Sapadillo Avogaâ—…o Pear and the like and of these Fruits there is still in Jamaica in those Plantations that were first settled by the Spaniards as at the Angels at 7 mile Walk and 16 mile Walk There I have seen these Trees which were planted by the Spaniards but I did never see any improvement made by the English who seem in that little curious The Road for Ships is on the North side where there is good anchoring half a mile from the shore There is a Well close by the Sea on the North side and formerly there were 3 or 4 Houses close by it but now they are destroyed This Island stands right against the mouth of the River Cheapo The River Cheapo springs out of the Mountains near the North side of the Country and it being penn'd up on the South side by other Mountains bends its course to the Westward between both till finding a passage on the S. W. it makes a kind of a half circle and being swell'd to a considerable bigness it runs with a slow motion into the Sea 7 leagues from Panama This River is very deep and about a quarter of a mile broad but the mouth of it is choaked up with Sands so that no Ships can enter but Barks may There is a small Spanish Town of the same name within 6 leagues of the Sea it stands on the left hand going from the Sea This is it which I said Captain La Sound attempted The Land about it is champion with many small Hills cloathed with Weeds but the biggest part of the Country is Savannah On the South side of the River it is all wood-land for many leagues together It was to this Town that our 250 Men were sent The 24th day they returned out of the River having taken the Town without any opposition but they found nothing in it By the way going thither they took a Canoa but most of the Men escaped ashore upon one of the Kings Islands She was sent out well appointed with armed Men to watch our motion The 25th day Captain Harris came to us having cleaned his Ship The 26th day we went again toward Tabago our Fleet now upon Captain Harris joining us again consisted of 10 Sail. We arrived at Tabago the 28th day there our Prisoners were examined concerning the strength of Panama for now we thought our selves strong enough for such an Enterprize being near 1000 Men. Out of these on occasion we could have landed 900 but our Prisoners gave us small Encouragement to it for they assured us that all the strength of the Country was there and that many Men were come from Portobel besides its own Inhabitants who of themselves were more in number than we These reasons together with the strength of the place which hath a high Wall deterr'd us from attempting it While we lay here at Tabago some of our men burnt the Town on the Island The 4th of May we failed hence again bound for the Kings Islands and there we continu'd cruising from one end of these Islands to the other till on the 22d day Captain Davis and Captain Gronet went to Pacheque leaving the rest of the Fleet at anchor at St. Pauls Island From Pacheque we sent 2 Canoas to the Island Chepelio in hopes to get a Prisoner there The 25th day our Canoas return'd from Chepelio with three Prisoners which they took there They were Sea-men belonging to Panama who said that provision was so scarce and dear there that the poor were almost starved being hindred by us from those common and daily supplies of Plantains which they did formerly injoy from the Islands especially from those two of Chepelio and Tabago That the President of Panama had strictly ordered that none should adventure to any of the Islands for Plantains but necessity had obliged them to trespass against the Presidents Order They farther reported that the Fleet from Lima was expected every day for it was generally talked that they were come from Lima and that the report at Panama was that King Charles 2d of England was dead and that the Duke of York was crowned King The 27th day Captain Swan and Captain Townly also came to Pacheque where we lay but Captain Swan s Bark was gone in among the Kings Islands for Plantains The Island Pacheque as I have before related is the northermost of the Kings Islands It is a small low Island about a league round On the South side of it there are 2 or 3 small Islands neither of them half a mile round Between Pacheque and these Islands is a small channel not above 6 or 7 paces wide and about a mile long Through this Captain Townly made a bold run being prest hard by the Spaniards in the fight I am going to speak of though he was ignorant whether there was a sufficient depth of Water or not On the East side of thiss Channel all our Fleet lay waiting for the Lima Fleet which we were in hopes would come this way The 28th day we had a very wet morning for the Rains were come in as they do usually in May or June sooner or later so that May is here a very uncertain month Hitherto till within a few days we had had good fair weather and the Wind at N. N. E. but now the weather was altered and the Wind at
aboard Captain Davis his Ship Captain Swan also sprung his Maintop Mast and got up another but while he was doing it and we were making the best of our way we lost sight of him and were now on the North side of the Bay for this way all Ships must pass from Panama whether bound towards the Coast of Mexico or Peru. The 10th day we passed by Moro de Porcos or the Mountain of Hogs Why so called I know not it is a high round Hill on the Coast of Lavelia This side of the Bay of Panama runs out westerly to the Islands of Quibo there are on this Coast many Rivers and Creeks but none so large as those on the South side of the Bay It is a Coast that is partly mountainous partly low land and very thick of Woods bordering on the Sea but a few leagues within land it consists mostly of Savannahs which are stock'd with Bulls and Cows The Rivers on this side are not wholly destitute of Gold though not so rich as the Rivers on the other side of the Bay The Coast is but thinly inhabited for except the Rivers that lead up to the Towns of Nata and Lavelia I know of no other Settlement between Panama and Puebla Nova The Spaniards may travel by land from Panama through all the Kingdom of Mexico as being full of Savannahs but towards the Coast of Peru they cannot pass further than the River Cheapo the Land there being so full of thick Woods and watered with so many great Rivers besides less Rivers and Creeks that the Indians themselves who inhabit there cannot travel far without much trouble We met with very wet weather in our Voyage to Quibo and with S. S. W. and sometimes S. W. Winds which retarded our course It was the 15th day of June when we arrived at Quibo and found there Captain Harris whom we sought The Island Quibo or Cabaya is in lat 7d 14m North of the Equator It is about 6 or 7 leagues long and 3 or 4 broad The Land is low except only near the N. E. end It is all over plentifully stored with great tall flourishing Trees of many sorts and there is good water on the East and North East sides of the Island Here are some Deer and plenty of pretty large black Monkies whose Flesh is sweet and wholsome besides a few Guanoes and some Snakes I know no other sort of Land Animal on the Island There is a shole runs out from the S. E. point of the Island half a mile into the Sea and a league to the North of this shole point on the East side there is a Rock about a mile from the shore which at the last quarter ebb appears above Water Besides these two places there is no danger on this side but Ships may run within a quarter of a mile of the shore and anchor in 6 8 10 or 12 fathom good clean Sand and Oaze There are many other Islands lying some on the S. W. side others on the N. and N. E. sides of this Island as the Island Quicaro which is a pretty large Island S. W. of Quibo and on the North of it is a small Island called the Ranoheria on which Island are plenty of Palma-Maria Trees The Palma-Maria is a tall straight-bodied Tree with a small Head but very unlike the Palm-tree notwithstanding the Name It is greatly esteemed for making Masts being very tough as well as of a good length for the grain of the Wood runs not straight along it but twisting gradually about it These Trees grow in many places of the West Indies and are frequently used both by the English and Spaniards there for that use The Islands Canales and Cantarras are small Islands lying on the N. E. of Rancheria These have all Channels to pass between and good anchoring about them and they are as well stored with Trees and Water as Quibo Sailing without them all they appear to be part of the Main The Island Quibo is the largest and most noted for although the rest have Names yet they are seldom used only for distinction sake these and the rest of this knot passing all under the common name of the Keys of Quibo Captain Swan gave to several of these Islands the Names of those English Merchants and Gentlemen who were Owners of his Ship June 16th Captain Swan came to an anchor by us and then our Captains consulted about new methods to advance their fortunes and because they were now out of hopes to get any thing at Sea they resolved to try what the Land would afford They demanded of our Pilots what Towns on the Coast of Mexico they could carry us to The City of Leon being the chiefest in the Country any thing near us though a pretty way within Land was pitcht on But now we wanted Canoas to land our Men and we had no other way but to cut down Trees and make as many as we had occasion for these Islands affording plenty of large Trees fit for our purpose While this was doing we sent 150 Men to take Puebla Nova a Town upon the Main near the innermost of these Islands to get Provision It was in going to take this Town that Captain Sawkins was killed in the year 1680 who was succeeded by Sharp Our Men took the Town with much ease although there was more strength of Men than when Captain Sawkins was kill'd They returned again the 24th day but got no Provision there They took an empty Bark in their way and brought her to us The 5th day of July Captain Knight mentioned in my last Chapter came to us He had been cruising a great way to the Westward but got nothing beside a good Ship At last he went to the South-ward as high as the Bay of Guiaquil where he took a Bark-log or pair of Bark-logs as we call it laden chiefly with Flower She had other Goods as Wine Oyl Brandy Sugar Soap and Leather of Goats-skins and he took out as much of each as he had occasion for and then turned her away again The Master of the Float told him that the Kings Ships were gone from Lima towards Panama that they carried but half the Kings Treasure with them for fear of us although they had all the strength that the Kingdom could afford that all the Merchant Ships which should have gone with them were laden and lying at Payta where they were to wait for further orders Captain Knight having but few Men did not dare to go to Payta where if he had been better provided he might have taken them all but he made the best of his way into the Bay of Panama in hopes to find us there inriched with the Spoils of the Lima Fleet but coming to the Kings Islands he had advice by a Prisoner that we had ingaged with their Fleet but were worsted and since that made our way to the Westward and therefore he came hither to seek us He presently
here being as I have said neither Boats Barks nor Ships that I could ever see unless only what come hither from other parts and some Boats near the S. E. end of California as I guess by the intercourse between that and the Main for Pearl-fishing The Ships that Trade hither are only 3 two that constantly go once a year between this and Manila in Luconia one of the Phillipine Islands and one Ship more every year to and from Lima. This from Lima commonly arrives a little before Christmas she brings them Quick-silver Cacao and pieces of Eight Here she stays till the Manila Ship arrives and then takes in a Cargo of Spices Silks Callicoes and Muzlins and other East India Commodities for the use of Peru and then returns to Lima. This is but a small Vessel of 20 Guns but the 2 Manila Ships are each said to be above 1000 Tun. These make their Voyages alternately so that one or other of them is always at the Manillas When either of them sets out from Acapulco it is at the latter end of March or the beginning of April she alwas touches to refresh at Guam one of the Ladrone Islands in about 60 days space after she sets out There she stays but 2 or 3 days and then prosecutes her Voyage to Manila where she commonly arrives some time in June By that time the other is ready to sail from thence laden with East India Commodities She stretcheth away to the North as far as 36 or sometimes into 40 degrees of North lat before she gets a wind to stand over to the American shore She falls in first with the Coast of California and then Coasts along the shore to the South again and never misses of a wind to bring her away from thence quite to Acapulco When she gets the length of Cape St. Lucas which is the Southermost point of California she stretcheth over to Cape Cortientes which is in about the 20th degree of North lat from thence she Coasts along till she comes to Sallagua and there she sets ashore Passengers that are bound to the City of Mexico From thence she makes her best way coasting still along shore till she arrives at Acapulco which is commonly about Christmas never more than 8 or 10 days before or after Upon the return of this Ship to the Manila the other which stayeth there till her arrival takes her turn back to Acapulco Sir John Narborough therefore was imposed on by the Spaniards who told him that there were 6 sail or more that used this Trade The Port of Acapulco is very commodious for the reception of Ships and so large that some hundreds may safely ride there without damnifying each other There is a small low Island crossing the mouth of the Harbour it is about a mile and a half long and half a mile broad stretching East and West It leaves a good wide deep Channel at each end where Ships may safely go in or come out taking the advantage of the Winds they must enter with the Sea-wind and go out with the Land-wind for these Winds seldom or never fail to succeed each other alternately in their proper seasons of the day or night The Westermost Channel is the narrowest but so deep there is no anchoring and the Manila Ships pass in that way but the Ships from Lima enters on the S. W. Channel This Harbour runs in North about 3 miles then growing very narrow it turns short about to the West and runs about a mile farther where it ends The Town stands on the N. W. side at the mouth of this narrow passage close by the Sea and at the end of the Town there is a Platform with a great many Guns Opposite to the Town on the East side stands a high strong Castle said to have 40 Guns of a very great bore Ships commonly ride near the bottom of the Harbour under the Command both of the Castle and the Platform Captain Townly who as I said before with 140 men left our Ships on a design to fetch the Lima Ship out of the Harbour had not rowed above 3 or 4 leagues before the Voyage was like to end with all their Lives for on a sudden they were encountered with a violent Tornado from the shore which had like to have foundered all the Canoas but they escaped that danger and the second night got safe into Port Marquis Port Marquis is a very good Harbour a league to the East of Acapulco Harbour Here they staid all the next day to dry themselves their Cloaths their Arms and Ammunition and the next night they rowed softly into Acapulco Harbour and because they would not be heard they hal'd in their Oars and paddled as softly as if they had been seeking Manatee They paddled close to the Castle then struck over to the Town and found the Ship riding between the Brestwork and the Fort within about 100 yards of each When they had well viewed her and considered the danger of the design they thought it not possible to accomplish it therefore they paddled softly back again till they were out of command of the Forts and then they went to land and fell in among a company of Spanish Soldiers for the Spaniards having seen them the day before had set Guards along the Coast who immediately fired at them but did them no damage only made them retire farther from the shore They lay afterwards at the mouth of the Harbour till it was day to take a view of the Town and Castle and then returned aboard again being tired hungry and sorry for their disappointment The 11th day we made sail again further on to the Westward with the Land-wind which is commonly at N. E. but the Sea Winds are at S. W. We passed by a long sandy Bay of above 20 leagues All the way along it the Sea falls with such force on the shore that it is impossible to come near it with Boat or Canoa yet it is good clean ground and good anchoring a mile or two from the shore The Land by the Sea is low and indifferent fertile producing many sorts of Trees especially the spreading Palm which grows in spots from one end of the Bay to the other The Palm-tree is as big as an ordinary Ash growing about 20 or 30 foot high The body is clear from boughs or branches till just at the head there it spreads forth many large green branches not much unlike the Cabbage-tree before described These branches also grow in many places as in Jamaica Darien the Bay of Campeachy c. from a stump not above a foot or two high which is not the remains of a Tree cut down for none of these sort of Trees will ever grow again when they have once lost their head but these are a sort of Dwarf-palm and the branches which grow from the stump are not so large as those that grow on the great Tree These smaller branches are used both in the East
largest Apple-trees It hath a spreading head full of branches and dark leaves The Fruit grows on the boughs like Apples it is as big as a Penny Loaf when VVheat is at 5 Shillings the Bushel It is of a round shape and hath a thick tough â—…ind VVhen the Fruit is ripe it is yellow and soft and the taste is sweet and pleasant The Natives of this Island use it for Bread they gather it when full grown while it is green and hard then they bake it in an Oven which scorcheth the rind and makes it black but they scrape off the outside black crust and there remains a tender thin crust and the inside is soft tender and white like the crumb of a Penny Loaf There is neither seed nor stone in the inside but all is of a pure substance like Bread it must be eaten new for if it is kept above 24 hours it becomes dry and eats harsh and choaky but 't is very pleasant before it is too stale This Fruit lasts in season 8 months in the year during which time the Natives eat no other sort of food of Bread kind I did never see of this Fruit any where but here The Natives told us that there is plenty of this Fruit growing on the rest of the Ladrone Islands and I did never hear of any of it any where else They have here some Rice also but the Island being of a dry soil and therefore not very proper for it they do not sow very much Fish is scarce about this Island yet on the Shole that our Bark came over there was great plenty and the Natives commonly go thither to fish The natives of this Island are strong bodied large limb'd and well shap'd They are Copper-coloured like other Indians their hair is black and long their Eyes meanly proportioned they have pretty high Noses their Lips are pretty full and their Teeth indifferent white They are long visaged and stern of countenance yet we found them to be affable and courteous They are many of them troubled with a kind of a Leprosie This distemper is very common at Mindanao therefore I shall speak more of it in my next Chapter They of Guam are otherwise very healthy especially in the dry season but in the wet season which comes in in June and holds till October the air is more thick and unwholsome which occasions Fevers but the rains are not violent nor lasting For the Island lyes so far Westerly from the Philippine Islands or any other Land that the Westerly winds do seldom blow so far and when they do they do not last long but the Easterly Winds do consiantly blow here which are dry and healthy and this Island is found to be very healthful as we were informed while we lay by it The natives are very ingenious beyond any people in making Boats or Proes as they are called in the East Indies and therein they take great delight These are built sharp at both ends the bottom is of one piece made like the bottom of a little Canoa very neatly dug and left of a good substance This bottom part is instead of a Keel It is about 26 or 28 foot long the under part of this Keel is made round but inclining to a wedge and smooth and the upper part is almost flat having a very gentle hollow and is about a foot broad From hence both sides of the Boat are carried up to about 5 foot high with narrow plank not above 4 or 5 inches broad and each end of the Boat turns up round very prettily But what is very singular one side of the Boat is made perpendicular like a Wall while the other side is rounding made as other Vessels are with a pretty full belly Just in the middle it is about 4 or 5 foot broad aloft or more according to the length of the Boat The Mast stands exactly in the middle with a long Yard that peeksup and down like a Mizen-yard One end of it reacheth down to the end or head of the Boat where it is placed in a notch that is made there purposely to receive it and keep it fast The other end hangs over the stern To this yard the sail is fastened At the foot of the sail there is another small yard to keep the sail out square and to roll up the sail on when it blows hard for it serves instead of a reef to take up the sail to what degree they please according to the strength of the Wind. Along the belly-side of the Boat parallel with it at about 6 or 7 foot distance lies another small Boat or Canoa being a Log of very light Wood almost as long as the great Boat but not so wide being not above a foot and an half wide at the upper part and very sharp like a wedge at each end And there are two Bamboas of about 8 or 10 foot long and as big as ones Leg placed over the great Boats side one near each end of it and reaching about 6 or 7 foot from the side of the Boat by the help of which the little Boat is made firm and contiguous to the other These are generally called by the Dutch and by the English from them Outlagers The use of them is to keep the great Boat upright from over-setting because the Wind here being in a manner constantly East or if it were at West it would be the same thing and the Range of these Islands where their business lies to and fro being mostly North and South they turn the flat side of the Boat against the Wind upon which they sail and the belly-side consequently with its little Boat is upon the Lee and the Vessel having a Head at each end so as to sail with either of them foremost indifferently they need not tack or go about as all our Vessels do but each end of the Boat serves either for head or stern as they please When they ply to windward and are minded to go about he that steers bears away a little from the Wind by which means the stern comes to the Wind which is now become the head only by shifting the end of the yard This Boat is steered with a broad Paddle instead of a Rudder I have been the more particular in describing these Boats because I do believe they sail the best of any Boats in the world I did here for my own satisfaction try the swiftness of one of them sailing by our Log we had 12 knots on our reel and she run it all out before the half minute glass was half out which if it had been no more is after the rate of 12 mile an hour but I do believe she would have run 24 mile an hour It was very pleasant to see the little Boat running along so swift by the others side The Native Indians are not less dexterous in managing than in building these Boats By report they will go from hence to another of the Ladrone
Islands about 30 leagues off and there do their business and return again in less than 12 hours I was told that one of these Boats was sent Express to Manila which is above 400 leagues and performed the Voyage in 4 days time There are of these Proes or Boats used in many places of the East Indies but with a Belly and a little Boat on each side Only at Mindanao I saw one like these with the belly and little Boat only on one side and the other flat but not so neatly built The Indians of Guam have neat little Houses very handsomely thatch'd with Palmeto-thatch They inhabit together in Villages built by the Sea on the West side and have Spanish Priests to instruct them in the Christian Religion The Spaniards have a small Fort on the West side near the South end with 6 Guns in it There is a Governour and 20 or 30 Spanish Souldiers There are no more Spaniards on the Island beside 2 or 3 Priests Not long before we arriv'd here the Natives rose on the Spaniards to destroy them and did kill many but the Governour with his Souldiers at length prevailed and drove them out of the Fort So when they found themselves disappointed of their intent they destroyed the Plantations and stock and then went away to other Islands There were then 3 or 400 Indians on this Island but now there are not above 100 for all that were in this Conspiracy went away As for these who yet remain if they were not actually concerned in that broil yet their hearts also are bent against the Spaniards for they offered to carry us to the Fort and assist us in the Conquest of the Island but C. Swan was not for molesting the Spaniards here Before we came to an anchor here one of the Priests came aboard in the night with 3 Indians They first hailed us to know from whence we came and what we were to whom answer was made in Spanish that we were Spaniards and that we came from Acapulco It being dark they could not see the make of our Ship nor very well discern what we were Therefore they came aboard but perceiving the mistake that they were in in taking us for a Spanish Ship they endeavoured to get from us again but we held their Boat fast and made them come in Captain Swan received the Priest with much civility and conducting him into the great Cabbin declared that the reason of our coming to this Island was want of Provision and that he came not in any hostile manner but as a friend to purchase with his Money what he wanted and therefore desired the Priest to write a Letter to the Governor to inform him what we were and on what account we came For having him now aboard the Captain was willing to detain him as an Hostage till we had Provision The Padre told Captain Swan that Provision was now scarce on the Island but he would engage that the Governour would do his utmost to furnish us In the morning the Indians in whose Boat or Prow the Frier came aboard were sent to the Governour with 2 Letters one from the Frier and another very obliging one from Captain Swan and a Present of 4 yards of Scarlet-cloath and a piece of broad Silver and Gold Lace The Governor lives near the South end of the Island on the West side which was about 5 leagues from the place where we were therefore we did not expect an answer till the evening not knowing then how nimble they were Therefore when the Indian Canoa was dispatched away to the Governor we hoised out 2 of our Canoas and sent one a fishing and the other ashore for Coco-nuts Our fishing Canoa got nothing but the Men that went ashore for Coco-nuts came off laden About 11 a clock that same morning the Governor of the Island sent a Letter to Captain Swan complimenting him for his Present and promising to support us with as much Provision as he could possibly spare and as a token of his gratitude he sent a Present of 6 Hogs of a small sort most excellent Meat the best I think that ever I eat they are fed with Coco-nuts and their flesh is hard as Brisket Beef They were doubtless of that breed in America which came originally from Spain He sent also 12 Muskmelons larger than ours in England and as many Water-melons both sorts here being a very excellent Fruit and sent an order to the Indians that lived in a Village not far from our Ship to bake every day as much of the Bread-fruit as we did desire and to assist us in getting as many dry Coco-nuts as we would have which they accordingly did and brought off the Bread-fruit every day hot as much as we could eat After this the Governour sent every day a Canoa or two with Hogs and Fruit and desired for the same Powder Shot and Arms which was sent according to his request We had a delicate large English Dog which the Governour did desire and had it given him very freely by the Captain though much against the grain of many of his Men who had a great value for that Dog Captain Swan endeavoured to get this Governours Letter of Recommendation to some Merchants at Manila for he had then a design to go to Fort St. George and from thence intended to trade to Manila but this his design was concealed from the company While we lay here the Acapulco Ship arrived in sight of the Island but did not come in sight of us for the Governour sent an Indian Proe with advice of our being here Therefore she stood off to the South-ward of the Island and coming foul of the same shole that our Bark had run over before was in great danger of being lost there for she struck off her Rudder and with much ado got clear but not till after three days labour For tho the shole be so near the Island and the Indians go off and fish there every day yet the Master of the Acapulco Ship who should one would think know these parts was utterly ignorant of it This their striking on the shole we heard afterward when we were on the Coast of Manila but these Indians of Guam did speak of her being in sight of the Island while we lay there which put our men in a great heat to go out after her but Captain Swan perswaded them out of that humour for he was now wholly averse to any hostile action The 30th day of May the Governour sent his last Present which was some Hogs a Jar of pickled Mangoes a Jar of excellent pickled Fish and a Jar of fine Rusk or Bread of fine Wheat Flower baked like Bisket but not so hard He sent besides 6 or 7 packs of Rice desiring to be excused from sending any more Provision to us saying he had no more on the Island that he could spare He sent word also that the West Monsoon was at hand that therefore it behoved
us to be jogging from hence unless we were resolved to return back to America again Captain Swan returned him thanks for his kindness and advice and took his leave and the same day sent the Frier ashore that was seized on at our first arrival and gave him a large Brass Clock an Astralobe and a large Telescope for which Present the Frier sent us aboard 6 Hogs and a roasting Pig 3 or 4 Bushels of Potatoes and 50 l. of Manila Tobacco Then we prepared to be gone being pretty well furnished with Provision to carry us to Mindanao where we designed next to touch We took aboard us as many Coco-nuts as we could well stow and we had a good stock of Rice and about 50 Hogs in Salt CHAP. XI They resolve to go to Mindanao Their departure from Guam Of the Philippine Islands The Isle Luconia and its chief Town and Port Manilo Manila or Manilbo Of the rich Trade we might establish with these Islands St. Johns Island They arrive at Mindanao The Island described It s Fertility The Libby Trees and the Sago made of them The Plantain Tree Fruit Liquor and Cloth A smaller Plantain at Mindanao The Bonano Of the Clove-bark Cloves and Nutmegs and the Methods taken by the Dutch to monopolize the Spices The Betel-nut and Arek tree The Durian and the Jaca tree and Fruit. The Beasts of Mindanao Centapes or Forty Legs a venemous Insect and others Their Fowls Fish c. The Temperature of the Climate with the Course of the Winds Tornadoes Rain and Temper of the Air throughout the year WHile we lay at Guam we took up a Resolution of going to Mindanao one of the Philippine Islands being told by the Frier and others that it was exceedingly well stored with Provisions that the Natives were Mahometans and that they had formerly a Commerce with the Spaniards but that now they were at wars with them This Island was therefore thought to be a convenient place for us to go to for besides that it was in our way to the East Indies which we had resolved to visit and that the Westerly Monsoon was at hand which would oblige us to shelter some where in a short time and that we could not expect good Harbours in a better place than in so large an Island as Mindanao besides all this I say the Inhabitants of Mindanao being then as we were told tho falsly at Wars with the Spaniards our Men who it should seem were very squeamish of plundering without Licence derived hopes from thence of getting a Commission there from the Prince of the Island to plunder the Spanish Ships about Manila and so to make Mindanao their common Rendezvouz And if Captain Swan was minded to go to an English Port yet his Men who thought he intended to leave them hoped to get Vessels and Pilots at Mindanao fit for their turn to cruise on the Coast of Manila As for Captain Swan he was willing enough to go thither as best suiting his own design and therefore this Voyage was concluded on by general consent Accordingly June 22d 1686. we left Guam bound for Mindanoa We had fair weather and a pretty smart gale of Wind at East for 3 or 4 days and then it shifted to the S. W. being rainy but it soon came about again to the East and blew a gentle gale yet it often shuffled about to the S. E. For though in the East Indies the Winds shift in April yet we found this to be the shifting season for the Winds here the other shifting season being in October sooner or later all over India As to our course from Guam to the Philippine Islands we found it as I intimated before agreeable enough with the account of our common Draughts The 21st day of July we arrived at the Island St. John which is one of the Philippine Islands The Philippines are a great company of large Islands taking up about 13 deg of Lat. in length reaching near upon from 5 d. of North Lat. to the 19th degree and in breadth about 6 deg of Longitude They derive this Name from Philip the 2d King of Spain and even now they do most of them belong to that Crown The chiefest Island in this range is Luconia which lies on the North of them all At this Island Magellan died in the Voyage that he was making round the VVorld For after he had past those Streights between the South end of America and Terra del Fuego which now bear his Name and had ranged down in the South Seas on the back of America from thence stretching over to the East Indies he fell in with the Ladrone Islands and from thence steering East still he fell in with these Philippine Islands and anchored at Luconia where he warr'd with the native Indians to bring them in obedience to his master the King of Spain and was by them kill'd with a poysoned Arrow It is now wholly under the Spaniards who have several Towns there The chief is Manilo which is a large Sea-port Town near the S. E. end opposite to the Island Mindora It is a place of great strength and trade The two great Acapulco Ships before-mentioned fetching from hence all sorts of East-India commodities which are brought hither by foreigners especially by the Chinese and the Portuguese Sometimes the English Merchants of Fort St. George send their Ships hither as it were by stealth under the charge of Portugueze Pilots and Mariners for as yet we cannot get the Spaniards there to a commerce with us or the Dutch although they have but few Ships of their own This seems to arise from a jealousie or fear of discovering the riches of these Islands for most if not all the Philippine Islands are rich in Gold and the Spaniards have no place of much strength in all these Islands that I could ever hear of besides Manilo it self Yet they have Villages and Towns on several of the Islands and Padres or Priests to instruct the native Indians from whom they get their Gold The Spanish Inhabitants of the smaller Islands especially would willingly trade with us if the Government was not so severe against it for they have no goods but what are brought from Manilo at an extraordinary dear rate I am of the opinion that if any of our Nations would seek a trade with them they would not lose their labour for the Spaniards can and will Smuggle as our Sea-men call Trading by stealth as well as any Nation that I know and our Jamaicans are to their profit sensible enough of it And I have been informed that Captain Goodlud of London in a Voyage which he made from Mindanao to China touch'd at some of these Islands and was civilly treated by the Spaniards who bought some of his Commodities giving him a very good price for the same There are about 12 or 14 more large Islands lying to the Southwards of Luconia most of which as I said before are inhabited by the Spaniards
Besides these there are an infinite number of small Islands of no account and even the great Islands many of them are without Names or at least so variously set down that I find the same Islands named by divers Names The Island St. John and Mindanao are the Southern-most of all these Islands and are the only Islands in all this Range that are not subject to the Spaniards St. Johns Island is on the East side of the Mindanao and distant from it 3 or 4 leagues It is in lat about 7 or 8 North. This Island is in length about 38 leagues stretching N. N. W. and S. S. E. and it is in breadth about 24 leagues in the middle of the Island The Northermost end is broader and the Southermost is narrower This Island is of a good heighth and is full of many small hills The Land at the South East end where I was ashore is of a black fat mould and the whole Island seems to partake of the same fatness by the vast number of large Trees that it produceth for it looks all over like one great Grove As we were passing by the S. E. end we saw a Canoa of the Natives under the shore therefore one of our Canoas went after to have spoken with her but she run away from us seeing themselves chaced put their Canoa ashore leaving her fled into the Woods nor would be allured to come to us altho we did what we could to entice them besides these Men we saw no more here nor sign of any Inhabitants at this end When we came aboard our Ship again we steered away for the Island Mindanao which was now fair in sight of us it being about 10 leagues distant from this part of St. Johns The 22d day we came within a league of the East side of the Island Mindanao and having the Wind at S. E. we steered toward the North end keeping on the East side till we came into the lat of 7d 40 m. and there we anchored in a small Bay about a mile from the shore in 10 fathom Water rocky foul ground Some of our Books gave us an account that Mindanao City and Isle lies in 7d 40 m. we guest that the middle of the Island might lye in this lat but we were at a great loss where to find the City whether on the East or West side Indeed had it been a small Island lying open to the Eastern Wind we might probably have searched first on the West side for commonly the Islands within the Tropicks or within the bounds of the Trade-Winds have their Harbours on the West sido as best sheltered but the Island Mindanao being guarded on the East side by St. Johns Island we might as reasonably expect to find the Harbour and City on this side as any where else but coming into the lat in which we judg'd the City might be found no Canoas or People that might give as any umbrage of a City or place of Trade near at hand though we coasted within a league of the shore The Island Mindanao is the biggest of all the Philippine Islands except Luconia It is about 60 leagues long and 40 or 50 broad The South end is in about 5 d. N. and the N. W. end reacheth almost to 8 d. N. It is a very mountainous Island full of Hills and Valleys The Mould in general is deep and black and extraordinary fat and fruitful The sides of the Hills are stony yet productive enough of very large tall Trees In the heart of the Country there are some Mountains that yield good Gold The Valleys are well moistned with pleasant Brooks and small Rivers of delicate Water and have Trees of divers sorts flourishing and green all the year The Trees in general are very large and most of them are of kinds unknown to us There is one sort which deserves particular notice called by the Natives Libby Trees These grow wild in great Groves of 5 or 6 mile long by the sides of the Rivers Of these Trees Sago is made which the poor Country People eat instead of Bread 3 or 4 months in the year This Tree for its body and shape is much like the Palmeto tree or the Cabbage tree but not so tall as the latter The Bark and Wood is hard and thin like a Shell and full of white Pith like the Pith of an Elder This Tree they cut down and split it in the middle and scrape out all the Pith which they beat lustily with a wooden Pestle in a great Mortar or Trough and then put into a Cloth or Strainer held over a Trough and pouring Water in among the Pith they stir it about in the Cloth so the Water carries all the substance of the Pith through the Cloth down into the Trough leaving nothing in the Cloth but a light sort of Husk which they throw away but that which falls into the Trough settles in a short time to the bottom like Mud and then they draw off the Water and take up the muddy substance wherewith they make Cakes which being baked proves very good Bread The Mindanao People live 3 or 4 months of the year on this food for their Bread kind The Native Indians of Teranate and Tidore and all the Spice Islands have plenty of these Trees and use them for food in the same manner as I have been inform'd by Mr. Caril Rofy who is now Commander of one of the Kings Ships He was one of our company at this time and being left with Captain Swan at Mindanao went afterwards to Teranate and lived there among the Dutch a year or two The Sago which is transported into other parts of the East Indies is dried in small pieces like little Seeds or Comfits and commonly eaten with Milk of Almonds by those that are troubled with the Flux for it is a great binder and very good in that distemper In some places of Mindanao there is plenty of Rice but in the hilly Land they plant Yams Potatoes and Pumkins all which thrive very well The other Fruits of this Island are Water-Melons Musk-Melons Plantains Bonanoes Guava's Nutmegs Cloves Betel-nuts Durians Jacks or Jaca's Coco-nuts Oranges c. The Plantain I take to be the King of all Fruit not except the Coco it self The Tree that bears this Fruit is about 3 foot or 3 foot and an half round and about 10 or 12 foot high These Trees are not raised from seed for they seem not to have any but from the roots of other old Trees If these young suckers are taken out of the ground and planted in another place it will be 15 months before they bear but if let stand in their own native Soil they will bear in 12 months As soon as the Fruit is ripe the Tree decays but then there are many young ones growing up to supply its place When this Tree first springs out of the ground it comes up with 2 leaves and by that time it is a foot
the Spice into their own hands There was another opportunity offered us here of settling on another Spice Island that was very well inhabited for the Inhabitants fearing the Dutch and understanding that the English were settling at Mindanao their Sultan sent his Nephew to Mindanao while we were there to invite us thither Captain Swan conferr'd with him about it divers times and I do believe he had some inclination to accept the offer and I am sure most of the men were for it but this never came to a head for want of a true understanding between Captain Swan and his Men as may be declared hereafter Beside the benefit which might accrue from this Trade with Meangis and other the Spice Islands the Philippine Islands themselves by a little care and industry might have afforded us a very beneficial Trade and all these Trades might have been managed from Mindanao by settling there first For that Island lyeth very convenient for Trading either to the Spice Islands or to the rest of the Philippine Islands since as its Soil is much of the same nature with either of them so it lies as it were in the Center of the Gold and Spice Trade in these parts the Islands North of Mindanao abounding most in Gold and those South of Meangis in Spice As the Island Mindanao lies very convenient for Trade so considering its distance the way thither may not be over long and tiresome The course that I would choose should be to set out of England about the latter end of August and to pass round Terra del Fuego and so stretching over towards New Holland coast it along that shore till I came near to Mindanao or first I would coast down near the American shore as far as I found convenient and then direct my course accordingly for the Island By this I should avoid coming near any of the Dutch settlements and be sure to meet always with a constant brisk Easterly Trade Wind after I was once past Terra del Fuego Whereas in passing about the Cape of Good Hope after you are shot over the East Indian Ocean and are come to the Islands you must past thro the Streights of Malacca or Sundy or else some other Streights East from Java where you will be sure to meet with Counter-winds go on which side of the Equator you please and this would require ordinarily 7 or 8 months for the Voyage but the other I should hope to perform in 6 or 7 at most In your return from thence also you must observe the same Rule as the Spaniards do in going from Manila to Acapulco only as they run towards the North Pole for variable Winds so you must run to the South-ward till you meet with a Wind that will carry you over to Terra del Fuego There are places enough to touch at for Refreshments either going or coming You may touch going thither on either side of Terra Patagonica or if you please at the Gallapagoes Islands where there is Refreshment enough and returning you may probably touch somewhere on New Holland and so make some profitable discovery in these places without going out of your way And to speak my thoughts freely I believe 't is owing to the neglect of this easy way that all that vast Tract of Terra Australis which bounds the South Sea is yet undiscovered those that cross that Sea seeming to design some business on the Peruvian or Mexican Coast and so leaving that at a distance To confirm which I shall add what Captain Davis told me lately that after his Departure from us at the Haven of Ria Lexa as is mentioned in the 8th Chap. he went after several Traverses to the Gallapagoes and that standing thence Southward for Wind to bring him about Terra del Fuego in the Lat. of 27 South about 500 leagues from Copayapo on the Coast of Chili he saw a small sandy Island just by him and that they saw to the Westward of it a long tract of pretty high Land tending away toward the North West out of sight This might probably be the Coast of Terra Australis Incognita But to return to Mindanao as to the capacity we were then in of setting our selves at Mindanao although we were not sent out of any such design of settling yet we were as well provided or better considering all circumstances than if we had For there was scarce any useful Trade but some or others of us understood it We had Sawyers Carpenters Joyners Brickmakers Bricklayers Shoemakers Taylors c. we only wanted a good Smith for great work which we might have had at Mindanao We were very well provided with Iron Lead and all sorts of Tools as Saws Axes Hammers c. We had Powder and Shot enough and very good small Arms. If we had designed to build a Fort we could have spared 8 or 10 Guns out of our Ship and Men enough to have managed it and any affair of Trade beside We had also a great advantage above raw Men that are sent out of England into these places who proceed usually too cautiously coldly and formerly to compass any considerable design which Experience better teaches than any Rules whatsoever besides the danger of their Lives in so great and sudden a a change of Air whereas we were all inured to hot Climates hardned by many fatigues and in general daring Men and such as would not be easily baffled To add one thing more our Men were almost tired and began to desire a quietus est and therefore they would gladly have seated themselves any where We had a good Ship too and enough of us beside what might have been spared to manage our new Settlement to bring the News with the effects to the Owners in England for Captain Swan had already 5000 l. in Gold which he and his Merchants received for goods sold mostly to Captain Harris and his men which if he had laid but part of it out in Spice as probably he might have done would have satisfy'd the Merchants to their hearts content So much by way of digression To proceed therefore with our first Reception at Mindanao Raja Laut and his Nephew sat still in their Canoa and would not come aboard us because as they said they had no orders for it from the Sultan After about half an hours discourse they took their leaves first inviting Captain Swan ashore and promising him to assist him in getting provision which they said at present was scarce but in 3 or 4 months time the Rice would be gathered in and then he might have as much as he pleased and that in the mean time he might secure his Ship in some convenient place for fear of the Westerly winds which they said would be very violent at the latter end of this month and all the next as we found them We did not know the quality of these two persons till after they were gone else we should have fir'd some Guns
formerly learnt to dance in the Musick-houses about Wapping This man came into the South Seas with Captain Harris and getting with him a good quantity of Gold and being a pretty good husband of his share had still some left besides what he laid out in a very good suit of Clothes The General supposed by his garb and his dancing that he had been of noble extraction and to be satisfy'd of his Quality asked of one of our men if he did not guess aright of him The man of whom the General asked this question told him he was much in the right and that most of our Ships company were of the like extraction especially all those that had fine Clothes and that they came abroad only to see the World having Money enough to bear their expences where-ever they came but that for the rest those that had but mean Clothes they were only common Sea-men After this the General shew'd a great deal of respect to all that had good Clothes but especially to John Thacker till Captain Swan came to know the business and marr'd all undeceiving the General and drubbing the Noble-man for he was so much incensed against John Thacker that he could never endure him afterwards tho the poor fellow knew nothing of the matter About the middle of November we began to work on our Ships bottom which we found very much eaten with the Worm for this is a horrid place for Worms We did not know this till after we had been in the River a month and then we found our Canoas bottoms eaten like Honey-combs our Bark which was a single bottom was eaten thro so that she could not swim But our Ship was sheathed and the Worm came no farther than the Hair between the sheathing Plank and the main Plank We did not mistrust the Generals Knavery till now for when he came down to our Ship and found us ripping off the sheathing Plank and saw the firm bottom underneath he shook his Head and seemed to be discontented saying he did never see a Ship with 2 bottoms before We were told that in this place where we now lay a Dutch Ship was eaten up in 2 months time and the General had all her Guns and it is probable he did expect to have had ours which I do believe was the main reason that made him so forward in assisting us to get our Ship into the River for when we went out again we had no assistance from him We had no Worms till we came to this place for when we careen'd at the Marias the Worm had not touch'd us not at Guam for there we scrubb'd nor after we came to the Island Mindanao for at the S. E. end of the Island we heel'd and scrubb'd also The Mindanaians are so sensible of these destructive Insects that whenever they come from Sea they immediately hale their Ships into a dry Dock and burn her bottom and there let her lye dry till they are ready to go to Sea again The Canoas or Proes they hale up dry and never suffer them to be long in the water It is reported that those Worms which get into a Ships bottom in the salt water will dye in the fresh water and that the fresh water Worms will dye in salt water but in brackish water both sorts will increase prodigiously Now this place where we lay was sometimes brackish water yet commonly fresh but what sort of Worm this was I know not Some men are of opinion that these Worms breed in the Plank but I am perswaded they breed in the Sea for I have seen millions of them swimming in the water particularly in the Bay of Panama for there Captain Davis Captain Swan and my self and most of our men did take notice of them divers times which was the reason of our Cleaning so often while we were there and these were the largest Worms that I did ever see I have also seen them in Virginia and in the Bay of Campeachy in the latter of which places the Worm eats prodigiously They are always in Bays Creeks mouths of Rivers and such places as are near the shore being never found far out at Sea that I could ever learn yet a Ship will bring them lodg'd in its Plank for a great way Having thus ript off all our Worm-eaten Plank and clapt on new by the beginning of December 1686 our Ships bottom was sheathed and tallowed and the 10th day we went over the Bar and took aboard the Iron and Lead that we could not sell and began to fill our Water and fetch aboard Rice for our Voyage But C. Swan remain d ashore still and was not yet determin'd when to sail or whither But I am well assured that he did never intend to cruize about Manila as his Crew design'd for I did once ask him and he told me that what he had already done of that kind he was forc'd to but now being at liberty he would never more engage in any such design For said he there is no Prince on Earth is able to wipe off the stain of such actions What other designs he had I know not for he was commonly very cross yet he did never propose doing any thing else but only ordered the Provision to be got aboard in order to sail and I am confident if he had made a motion to go to any English Factory most of his men would have consented to it tho probably some would have still opposed it However his authority might soon have over-swayed those that were refractory for it was very strange to see the awe that these men were in of him for he punished the most stubborn and daring of his men Yet when we had brought the Ship out into the Road they were not altogether so submissive as while it lay in the River though even then it was that he punished Captain Teat I was at that time a hunting with the General for Beef which he had a long time promised us But now I saw that there was no credit to he given to his word for I was a week out with him and saw but four Cows which were so wild that we did not get one There were five or six more of our Company with me these who were young men and had Dalilahs there which made them fond of the place all agreed with the General to tell Captain Swan that there were Beeves enough only they were wild But I told him the truth and advised him not to be too credulous of the Generals promises He seemed to be very angry and stormed behind the Generals back but in his presence was very mute being a man of small courage It was about the 20th day of December when we returned from hunting and the General designed to go again to another place to hunt for Beef but he stayed till after Christmas-day because some of us designed to go with him and Captain Swan had desired all his men to be aboard that day that
for the Europeans coming Eastward by the Cape of Good Hope in a course contrary to the Sun and us where-ever we met they were a full day before us in their Accounts So among the Indian Mahometans here their Friday the day of their Sultans going to their Mosques was Thursday with us though it were Friday also with those who came Eastward from Europe Yet at the Ladrone Islands we found the Spaniards of Guam keeping the same computation with our selves the reason of which I take to be that they settled that Colony by a course Westward from Spain the Spaniards going first to America and thence to the Ladrones and Philippines But how the reckoning was at Manila and the rest of the Spanish Colonies in the Philippine Islands I know not whether they keep it as they brought it or corrected it by the Accounts of the Natives and of the Portuguese Dutch and English coming the contrary way from Europe One great reason why Seamen ought to keep the difference of time as exact as they can is that they may be the more exact in their Lo ngitude For our Tables of the Suns declination being calculated for the Meridians of the places in which they were made differ about 12 minutes from those parts of the World that lie on their opposite Meridians in the months of March and September and in proportion to the Suns declination at other times of the year also And should they run farther as we did the difference would still increase upon them and be an occasion of great errours Yet even able Seamen in these Voyages are hardly made sensible of this tho so necessary to be observed for want of duly attending to the reason of it as it happened among those of our crew who after we had past 180 degrees began to decrease the difference of declination whereas they ought still to have increased it for it all the way increased upon us We had the Wind at N. N. E. fair clear Weather and a brisk gale We coasted to the West-ward on the South side of the Island Mindanao keeping within 4 or 5 leagues of the shore The Land from hence trends away W. by S. It is of a good heighth by the Sea and very Woody and in the Country we say high Hills The next day we were abrest off Chambongo a Town in this Island and 30 leagues from the River of Mindanao Here is said to be a good Harbour and a great settlement with plenty of Beef and Buffaloe It is reported that the Spaniards were formerly fortified here also There are 2 shoals lie off this place 2 or 3 leagues from the shore From hence the Land is more low and even yet there are some Hills in the Country About 6 leagues before we came to the West end of the Island Mindanao we fell in with a great many small low Islands or Keys and about 2 or 3 leagues to the Southward of these Keys there is a long Island stretching N. E. and S. W. about 12 leagues This Island is low by the Sea on the North side and has a ridge of Hills in the middle running from one end to the other Between this Island and the small Keys there is a good large Channel Among the Keys also there is good depth of Water and a violent Tide but on what point of the compass it flows I know not nor how much it riseth and falls The 17th day we anchored on the East side of all these Keys in 8 fathom water clean Sand. Here are plenty of green Turtle whose flesh is as sweet as any in the West Indies but they are very shy A little to the Westward of these Keys on the Island Mindanan we saw abundance of Coco-nut Trees Therefore we sent our Canoa ashore thinking to find Inhabitants but found none nor sign of any but great tracks of Hogs and great Cattle and close by the Sea there were the ruins of an old Fort. The Walls thereof were of a good heighth built with Stone and Lime and by the Wokrmanship seem'd to be Spanish From this place the Land trends W. N. W. and is of an indifferent heighth by the Sea It run on this point of the Compass 4 or 5 leagues and then the Land trends away N. N. W. 5 or 6 leagues farther making with many bluff points We weigh'd again the 14th day and went thro between the Keys but met such uncertain Tydes that we were forced to anchor again The 22d day we got about the Westermost point of all Mindanao and stood to the Northward plying under the shore and having the Wind at N. N. E. a fresh gale As we sailed along further we found the Land to trend N. N. E. On this part of the Island the Land is high by the Sea with full bluff points and very Woody There are some small sandy Bays which afford streams of fresh Water Here we met with two Proe's belonging to the 〈◊〉 one of the Mindanaian Nations before mentioned They came from Manila laden with Silks and Calicoes We kept on this Western part of the Island steering Northerly till we came abrest of some other of the Philippine Islands that lay to the Northward of us then steered away towards them but still keeping on the West side of them and we had the Winds at N. N. E. The 3d of February we anchored in a good bay on the West side of an Island in lat 9 d. 55 m. where we had 13 fathom Water good soft oaze This Island hath no name that we could find in any book but lieth on the West side of Island Sebo It is about 8 or 10 leagues long Mountainous and Woody At this place Captain Read who was the same Captain Swan had so much railed against in his Journal and was now made Captain in his room as Captain Teat was made Master and Mr. Henry More Quartermaster ordered the Carpenters to cut down our Quarter Deck to make the Ship snug and the fitter for sailing When that was done we heeled her scrubbed her bottom and tallowed it Then we fill'd all our Water for here is a delicate small run of Water The Land was pretty low in this Bay the Mould black and fat and the Trees of several kinds very thick and tall In some places we found plenty of Canes such as we use in England for Walking-canes These were short jointed not above two foot and a half or two foot ten inches the longest and most of them not above two foot They run along on the ground like a Vine or taking hold of the Trees they climb up to their very tops They are 15 or 20 fathom long and much of a bigness from the root till within 5 or 6 fathom of the end They are of a pale green colour cloathed over with a coat of a short thick hairy substance of a dun colour but it comes off by only drawing the Cane thro your hand We did cut many of them
and they proved very tough heavy Canes We saw no Houses nor sign of Inhabitants but while we lay here there was a Canoa with 6 men came into this Bay but whether they were bound or from whence they came I know not They were Indians and we could not understand them In the middle of this Bay about a mile from the shore there is small low woody Island not above a mile in circumference our Ship rode about a mile from it This Island was the habitation of an incredible number of great Batts with bodies as big as Ducks or larger Fowl and with vast Wings For I saw at Mindanao one of this sort and I judge that the Wings stretcht out in length could not be less asunder than 7 or 8 foot from tip to tip for it was much more than any of us could fathom with our Arms extended to the utmost The Wings are for substance like those of other Batts of a dun or mouse colour The Skin or Leather of them hath Ribs running along it and draws up in 3 or 4 folds and at the joints of those Ribs and the extremities of the Wings there are sharp crooked Claws by which they may hang on any thing In the evening as soon as the Sun was set these Creatures would begin to take their flight from this Island in swarms like Bees directing their flight over to the main Island and whether afterwards I know not Thus we should see them rising up from the Island till night hindred our sight and in the morning as soon as it was light we should see them returning again like a Cloud to the small Island till Sun rising This course they kept constantly while we lay here affording us every morning and evening an hours diversion in gazing at them and talking about them but our curiosity did not prevail with us to go ashore to them our selves and Canoas being all the day time taken up in business about our Ship At this Isle also we found plenty of Turtle and Manatee but no Fish We stay'd here till the 10th of February 1687 and then having compleated our business we sailed hence with the Wind at North. But going out we struck on a Rock where we lay two hours It was very smooth Water and the Tide of flood or else we should there have lost our Ship We struck off a great piece of our Rudder which was all the damage that we received but we more narrowly mist losing our Ship this time than in any other in the whole Voyage This is a very dangerous Shoal because it does not break unless probably it may appear in foul weather It lies about two mile to the Westward without the small Batt Island Here we found the Tide of flood setting to the Southward and the Ebb to the Northward After we were past this Shoal we coasted along by the rest of the Philippine Islands keeping on the West side of them Some of them appeared to be very Mountainous dry Land We saw many fires in the night as we passed by Panay a great Island settled by Spaniards and by the fires up and down it seems to be well settled by them for this is a Spanish custom whereby they give notice of any danger or the like from Sea and 't is probable they had seen our Ship the day before This is an unfrequented Coast and 't is rare to have any Ship seen there We touched not at Panay nor any where else tho we saw a great many small Islands to the Westward of us and some Shoals but none of them laid down in our draughts The 18th day of Feb. we anchored at the N. W. end of the Island Mindora in 10 fathom Water about 3 quarters of a mile from the shore Mindora is a large Island the middle of it lying in lat 13 about 40 leagues long stretching N. W. and S. E. It is high and Mountainous and not very woody At this place where we anchored the Land was neither very high nor low There was a small Brook of Water and the Land by the Sea was very woody and the Trees high and tall but a league or two farther in the Woods are very thin and small Here we saw great tracks of Hogs and Beef and we saw some of each and hunted them but they were wild and we could kill none While we were here there was a Canoa with 4 Indians came from Manila They were very shie of us a while but at last hearing us speak Spanish they came to us and told us that they were going to a Frier that liv'd at an Indian Village towards the S. E. end of the Island They told us also that the Harbour of Manila is seldom or never without 20 or 30 Sail of Vessels most Chinese some Portugueze and some few the Spaniards have of their own They said that when they had done their business with the Frier they would return to Manila and hoped to be back again at this place in 4 days time We told them that we came for a Trade with the Spaniards at Manila and should be glad if they would carry a Letter to some Merchant there which they promised to do But this was only a pretence of ours to get out of them what intelligence we could as to their Shipping Strength and the like under colour of seeking a Trade for our business was to pillage Now if we had really designed to have traded here this was as fair an opportunity as Men could have desired for these men could have brought us to the Frier that they were going to and a small Present to him would have engaged him to do any kindness for us in the way of Trade for the Spanish Governors do not allow of it and we must Trade by stealth The 21st day we went from hence with the wind at E. N. E. a small gale The 23d day in the morning we were fair by the S. E. end of the Island Luconia the place that had been so long desired by us We presently saw a Sail coming from the Northward and making after her we took her in 2 hours time She was a Spanish Bark that came from a place called Pangasanam a small Town on the N. end of Luconia as they told us probably the same with Pongassinay which lies on a Bay at the N. W. side of the Island She was bound to Manila but had no Goods aboard and therefore we turned her away The 23d we took another Spanish Vessel that came from the same place as the other She was laden with Rice and Cotton-cloath and bound for Manila also These Goods were purposely for the Acapulco Ship the Rice was for the Men to live on while they lay there and in their return and the Cotton-cloath was to make Sails The Master of this Prize was Boatswain of the Acapulco Ship which escaped us at Guam and was now at Manila It was this Man that gave us the relation of what
strength it had how they were afraid of us there and of the accident that happen'd to them as is before mentioned in the 10th Chapter We took these two Vessels within 7 or 8 leagues of Manila Luconia I have spoken of already but I shall now add this further account of it It is a great Island taking up between 6 and 7 degrees of Lat. in length and its breadth near the middle is about 60 leagues but the ends are narrow The North end lies in about 19 d. North Lat. and the S. end in about 12 d. 30 m. This great Island hath abundance of small Keys or Islands lying about it especially at the North end The South side fronts towards the rest of the Philippine Islands of these that are its nearest Neighbours Mindora lately mentioned is the chief and gives name to the Sea or Streight that parts it and the other Islands from Luconia being called the Streights of Mindora A Prospect of y e Coast of y e I. Luconia near Manila at 6 L. off Shore y e highest Pike bearing East Thus the Islands Pulo Condor appear at 8 L. distance bearing South It is pretty well inhabited with Indians most of them if not all under the Spaniards who now are masters of it The Native Indians do live together in Towns and they have Priests among them to instruct them in the Spanish Religion Manila the chief or perhaps only City lies at the foot of a ridge of high Hills facing upon a spacious harbour near the S. W. point of the Island in about the Lat. of 14 d. North. It is environ'd with a high strong Wall and very well fortify'd with Forts and Breastworks The Houses are large strongly built and covered with Pan-tile The Streets are large and pretty regular with a Parade in the midst after the Spanish fashion There a great many fair Buildings besides Churches and other Religious houses of which there are not a few The Harbour is so large that some hundreds of Ships may ride here and is never without many both of their own and strangers I have already given you an account of the two Ships going and coming between this place and Acapulco Besides them they have some small Vessels of their own and they do allow the Portuguese to Trade here but the Chinese are the chiefest Merchants and they drive the greatest Trade for they have commonly 20 or 30 or 40 Jonks in the Harbour at a time and a great many Merchants constantly residing in the City beside Shop-keepers and Handy-crafts men in abundance Small Vessels run up near the Town but the Acapulco Ships and others of greater burthen lye a league short of it where there is a strong Fort also and Store-houses to put Goods in I had the major part of this relation 2 or 3 years after this time from Mr. Coppinger our Surgeon for he made a Voyage hither from Porta Nova a Town on the Coast of Coromandel in a Portugueze Ship as I think Here he found 10 or 12 of Captain Swan's men some of those that we left at Mindanao For after we came from thence they bought a Proe there by the instigation of an Irish-man who went by the name of John Fitz-Gerald a person that spoke Spanish very well and so in this their Proe they came hither They had been here but 18 months when Mr. Coppinger arrived here and Mr. Fitz-Gerald had in this time gotten a Spanish Mustesa Woman to Wife and a good Dowry with her He then professed Physick and Surgery and was highly esteemed among the Spaniards for his supposed Knowledge in those Arts For being always troubled with sore Shins while he was with us he kept some Plaisters and Salves by him and with these he set up upon his bare natural stock of knowledge and his Experience in Kibes But then he had a very great stock of confidence withal to help out the other and being an Irish Roman Catholick and having the Spanish Language he had a great advantage of all his Consorts and he alone lived well there of them all We were not within sight of this Town but I was shewn the Hills that over-looked it and drew a draft of them as we lay off at Sea which I have caused to be ingraven among a few others that I took my self See the Table The time of the year being now too far spent to do any thing here it was concluded to sail from hence to Pulo Condore a little parcel of Islands on the Coast of Cambodia and carry this prize with us and there careen if we could find any convenient place for it designing to return hither again by the latter end of May and wait for the Acapulco Ship that comes about that time By our Drafts which we were guided by being strangers to these parts this seemed to us then to be a place out of the way where we might lye snug for a while and wait the time of returning for our prey For we avoided as much as we could the going to lye by at any great place of Commerce lest we should become too much exposed and perhaps be assulted by a force greater than our own So having set our Prisoners ashore we sailed from Luconia the 26th day of Feb. with the Wind E. N. E. and fair weather and a brisk gale We were in lat 14d N. when we began to steer away for Pulo Condore and we steered S. by W. In our way thither we went pretty near the Shoals of Pracel and other Shoals which are very dangerous We were very much afraid of them but escaped them without so much as seeing them only at the very South end of the Pracel Shoals we saw 3 little sandy Islands or Spots of Sand standing just above water within a mile of us It was the 13th day of March before we came in sight of Pulo Condore or the Island Condore as Pulo signifies The 14th day about noon we anchored on the North side of the Island against a sandy Bay 2 mile from the shore in 10 fathom clean hard Sand with both Ship and Prize Pulo Condore is the principal of a heap of Islands and the only inhabited one of them They lye in lat 8 d. 40. m. North and about 20 leagues South and by East from the mouth of the River of Cambodia These Islands lye so near together that at a distance they appear to be but one Island Two of these Islands are pretty large and of a good heighth they may be seen 14 or 15 leagues at Sea the rest are but little Spots The biggest of the two which is the inhabited one is about 4 or 5 leagues long and lies East and West It is not above 3 mile broad at the broadest place in most places not above a mile wide The other large Island is about 3 mile long and half a mile wide This Island stretcheth N. and S. It is so conveniently placed at the West end
of the biggest Island that between both there is formed a very commodious Harbour The entrance of this Harbour is on the North side where the two Islands are near a mile asunder There are 3 or 4 small Keys and a good deep Channel between them and the biggest Island Towards the South end of the Harbour the two Islands do in a manner close up leaving only a small passage for Boats and Canoas There are no more Islands on the North side but 5 or 6 on the South side of the great Island See the Table The Mold of these Islands for the biggest part is blackish and pretty deep only the Hills are somewhat stony The Eastern part of the biggest Island is sandy yet all cloathed with Trees of divers sorts The Trees do not grow so thick as I have seen them in some places but they are generally large and tall and fit for any uses There is one sort of Tree much larger than any other on this Island and which I have not seen any where else It is about 3 or 4 foot diameter in the Body from whence is drawn a sort of clammy juice which being boiled a little becomes perfect Tar and if you boil it much it will become hard as Pitch It may be put to either use we used it both ways and found it to be very serviceable The way that they get this juice is by cutting a great gap horizontally in the body of the Tree half through and about a foot from the ground and then cutting the upper part of the body aslope inwardly downward till in the middle of the Tree it meet with the traverse cutting or plain In this plain horizontal semicircular stump they make a hallow like a Bason that may contain a quart or two Into this hole the juice which drains from the wounded upper part of the Tree falls from whence you must empty it every day It will run thus for some months and then dry away and the Tree will recover again The Fruit-trees that nature hath bestowed on these Isles are Mangoes and Trees bearing a sort of Grape and other Trees bearing a kind of wild or bastard Nutmegs These all grow wild in the Woods and in very great plenty The Mangoes here grow on Trees as big as Apple-trees Those at Fort St. George are not so large The fruit of these is as big as a small Peach but long and smaller towards the top It is of a yellowish colour when ripe it is very juicy and of a pleasant smell and delicate taste When the Mango is young they cut them in two pieces and pickle them with Salt and Vineger in which they put some Cloves of Garlick This is an excellent sawce and much esteemed it is called Mango Achar Achar I presume signifies Sawce They make in the East Indies especially at Siam and Pegu several sorts of Achar as of the young tops of Bamboes c. Bambo Achar and Mango Achar are most used The Mangoes were ripe when we were there as were also the rest of these Fruits and they have then so delicate a fragrancy that we could smell them out in the thick Woods if we had but the wind of them while we were a good way from them and could not see them and we generally found them out this way Mangoes are common in many places of the East Indies but I did never know any grow wild only at this place These though not so big as those I have seen at Achin at Maderas and Fort St. George are yet every whit as pleasant as the best sort of their Garden Mangoes The Grape-tree grows with a strait body of a Diameter about a foot or more and hath but few Limbs or Boughs The Fruit grows in Clusters all about the body of the Tree like the Jack Durian and Cacao Fruits There are of them both red and white They are much like such Grapes as grow on our Vines both in shape and colour and they are of a very pleasant Winy taste I never saw these but on the two biggest of these Islands the rest had no Tar-trees Mango's Grape-trees nor Wild Nutmegs The Wild Nutmeg-tree is as big as a Walnut-tree but it does not spread so much The Boughs are gross and the Fruit grows among the Boughs as the Wallnut and other Fruits This Nutmeg is much smaller than the true Nutmeg and longer also It is inclosed with a thin Shell and a sort of Mace encircling the Nut within the Shell This bastard Nutmeg is so much like the true Nutmeg in shape that at our first arrival here we thought it to be the true one but it has no manner of smell nor taste The Animals of these Islands are some Hogs Lizards and Guanoes and some of those Creatures mentioned in Chap. XI which are like but much bigger than the Guano Here are many sorts of Birds as Parrots Parakites Doves and Pigeons Here are also a sort of wild Cocks and Hens They are much like our tame Fowl of that kind but a great deal less for they are about the bigness of a Crow The Cocks do crow like ours but much more small and shrill and by their crowing we do first find them out in the Woods where we shoot them Their flesh is very white and sweet There are a great many Limpits and Muscles and plenty of green Turtle And upon this mention of Turtle again I think it not amiss to add some reasons to strengthen the opinion that I have given concerning these Creatures removing from place to place I have said in Chapter 5th that they leave their common feeding places and go to places a great way from thence to lay as particularly to the Island Ascention Now I have discoursed with some since that subject was printed who are of opinion that when the laying time is over they never go from thence but lye some where in the Sea about the Island which I think is very improbable for there can be no food for them there as I could soon make appear as particularly from hence that the Sea about the Isle of Ascention is so deep as to admit of no anchoring but at one place where there is no sign of Grass and we never bring up with our sounding Lead any Grass or Weeds out of very deep Seas but Sand or the like only But if this be granted that there is food for them yet I have a great deal of reason to believe that the Turtle go from hence for after the laying time you shall never see them and where ever Turtle are you will see them rise and hold their Head above water to breath once in 7 or 8 minutes or at longest in 10 or 12. And if any man does but consider how Fish take their certain seasons of the year to go from one Sea to another this would not seem strange even Fowls also having their seasons to remove from once place to another These Islands are pretty well watered
over-board some into their Boats others into the Sea and they all made away for the shore But when we perceived their fright we made much of him that was in hold who stood trembling all the while and at last we gave him a small piece of Iron with which he immediately leapt overboard and swam to his Consorts who hovered about our Ship to see the issue Then we beckned to them to come aboard again being very loth to lose a commerce with them Some of the Boats came aboard again and they were always very honest and civil afterwards We presently after this sent a Canoa ashore to see their manner of living and what Provision they had The Canoas Crew were made very welcom with Bashee drink and saw abundance of Hogs some of which they bought and returned aboard After this the Natives brought aboard both Hogs and Goats to us in their own Boats and every day we should have 15 or 20 Hogs and Goats in Boats aboard by our side These we bought for a small matter we could buy a good fat Goat for an old Iron Hoop and a Hog of 70 or 80 pound weight for 2 or 3 pound of Iron Their Drink also they brought off in Jars which we bought for old Nails Spikes and Leaden Bullets Beside the forementioned Commodities they brought aboard great quantities of Yams and Potatoes which we purchased for Nails Spikes or Bullets It was one Man's work to be all day cutting out Bars of Iron into small pieces with a cold Chisel and these were for the great purchases of Hogs and Goats which they would not sell for Nails as their Drink and Roots We never let them know what store we have that they may value it the more Every morning assoon as it was light they would thus come aboard with their Commodities which we bought as we had occasion We did commonly furnish our selves with as many Goats and Roots as served us all the day and their Hogs we bought in large quantities as we thought convenient for we salted them Their Hogs were very sweet but I never saw so many meazled ones We filled all our Water at a curious Brook close by us in Graftons Isle where we first anchored We stayed there about 3 or 4 days before we went to other Islands We sailed to the Southward passing on the East side of Grafton Island and then passed thro between that and Monmouth Island but we found no anchoring till we came to the North end of Monmouth Island and there we stopt during one Tide The Tide runs very strong here and sometimes makes a short chopping Sea Its course amongst these Islands is S. by E. and N. by W. The flood sets to the North and ebb to to the South and it riseth and falleth 8 foot When we went from hence we coasted about 2 leagues to the Southward on the West side of Monmouth Island and finding no anchor ground we stood over to Bashee Island and came to an anchor on the North East part of it against a small sandy Bay in 7 fathom clean hard sand and about a quarter of a mile from the shore Here is a pretty wide Channel between these two Islands and anchoring all over it The depth of Water is 12 14 and 16 fathom We presently built a Tent ashore to mend our Sails in and stay'd all the rest of our time here viz. from the 13th day of August till the 26 day of September In which time we mended our Sails and scrubbed our Ships bottom very well and every day some of us went to their Towns and were kindly entertained by them Their Boats also came aboard with their Merchandise to sell and lay aboard all day and if we did not take it off their hands one day they would bring the same again the next We had yet the Winds at S. W. and S. S. W. mostly fair weather In October we did expect the Winds to shift to the N. E. and therefore we provided to sail as soon as the Eastern Monsoon was settled to cruise off of Manila Accordingly we provided a stock of Provision We salted 70 or 80 good fat Hogs and bought Yams and Potatoes good store to eat at Sea About the 24th day of September the Winds shifted about to the East and from thence to the N. E. fine fair weather The 25th it came at N. and began to grow fresh and the Sky began to be clouded and the Wind freshned on us At 12 a clock at night it blew a very fierce storm We were then riding with our best Bower a head and though our Yards and Top-mast were down yet we drove This obliged us to let go our Sheet Anchor veering out a good scope of Cable which stopt us till 10 or 11 a clock the next day Then the Wind came on so fierce that she drove again with both Anchors a head The Wind was now at N. by W. and we kept driving till 3 or 4 a clock in the afternoon and it was well for us that there were no Islands Rocks or Sands in our way for if there had we must have been driven upon them We used our utmost endeavours to stop her being loath to go to Sea because we had 6 of our Men ashore who could not get off now At last we were driven out into deep Water and then it was in vain to wait any longer Therefore we hove in our Sheet Cable and got up our Sheet Anchor and cut away our best Bower for to have heav'd her up then would have gone near to have foundred us and so put to Sea We had very violent weather the night ensuing with very hard Rain and we were forced to scud with our bare poles till 3 a clock in the morning Then the Wind slacken'd and we brought our Ship to under a mizen and lay with our head to the Westward The 27th day the Wind abated much but it rained very hard all day and the night ensuing The 28th day the Wind came about to the N. E. and it cleered up and blew a hard gale but it stood not there for it shifted about the Eastward thence to the S. E. then to the South and at last it settled at S. W. and then we had a moderate gale and fair weather It was the 29th day when the Wind came to the S. W. Then we made all the sail we could for the Island again The 30th day we had the Wind at West and saw the Islands but could not get in before night Therefore we stood off to the Southward till 2 a clock in the morning then we tackt and stood in all the morning and about 12 a clock the 1st day of October we anchored again at the place from whence we were driven Then our 6 men were brought aboard by the Natives to whom we gave 3 whole bars of Iron for their kindness and civility which was an extraordinary Present to them Mr. Robert Hall was one of the
we had a fresh Land Wind and steered away South passing between the 2 Shoals which we saw the day before These Shoals lye in lat 3 d. South and about 10 leagues from the Island Celebes Being past them the Wind died away and we lay decalmed till the afternoon Then we had a hard Tornado out of the South West and towards the evening we saw two or three Spouts the first I had seen since I came into the East Indies in the West Indies I had often met with them A Spout is a small ragged piece or part of a Cloud hanging down about a yard seemingly from the blackest part thereof Commonly it hangs down sloping from thence or sometimes appearing with a small bending or elbow in the middle I never saw any hang perpendicularly down It is small at the lower end seeming no bigger than ones Arm but 't is fuller towards the Cloud from whence it proceeds When the surface of the Sea begins to work you shall see the Water for about 100 paces in circumference foam and move gently round till the whirling motion increases and then it flies upward in a pillar about 100 paces in compass at the bottom but lessening gradually upwards to the smallness of the Spout it self there where it reacheth the lower end of the Spout through which the rising Sea-water seems to be conveyed into the Clouds This visibly appears by the Clouds increasing in bulk and blackness Then you shall presently see the Cloud drive along although before it seemed to be without any motion the Spout also keeping the same course with the Cloud and still sucking up the Water as it goes along and they make a Wind as they go Thus it continues for the space of half an hour more or less until the sucking is spent and then breaking off all the Water which was below the Spout or pendulous piece of Cloud falls down again into the Sea making a great noise with its fall and clashing motion in the Sea It is very dangerous for a Ship to be under a Spout when it breaks therefore we always endeavoured to shun it by keeping at a distance if possibly we can But for want of Wind to carry us away we are often in great fear and danger for it is usually calm when Spouts are at work except only just where they are Therefore men at Sea when they see a Spout coming and know not how to avoid it do sometimes fire shot out of their great Guns into it to give it air or vent that so it may break but I did never hear that it proved to be of any benefit And now being on this subject I think it not amiss to give you an account of an accident that happened to a Ship once on the Coast of Guinea some time in or about the year 1674. One Captain Records of London bound for the Coast of Guinea in a Ship of 300 Tuns and 16 Guns called the Blessing when he came into the lat 7 or 8 degrees North he saw several Spouts one of which came directly towards the Ship and he having no Wind to get out of the way of the Spout made ready to receive it by furling his sails It came on very swift and broke a little before it reached the Ship making a great noise and raising the Sea round it as if a great house or some such thing had been cast into the Sea The fury of the Wind still lasted and took the Ship on the Starboard bow with such violence that it snapt off the Boltsprit and Fore-mast both at once and blew the Ship all along ready to over-set it but the Ship did presently right again and the Wind whirling round took the Ship a second time with the like fury as before but on the contrary side and was again like to overset her the other way The Mizen-mast felt the fury of this second blast and was snapt short off as the Fore-mast and Bolt-sprit had been before The Main-mast and Main-top-mast received no damage for the fury of the Wind which was presently over did not reach them Three men were in the Fore-top when the Fore-mast broke and one on the Boltsprit and fell with them into the Sea but all of them were saved I had this relation from Mr. John Canby who was then Quarter-master and Steward of her one Ahraham Wise was chief Mate and Leonard Jefferies second Mate We are usually very much afraid of them yet this was the only damage that ever I heard done by them They seem terrible enough the rather because they come upon you while you lie becalm'd like a Log in the Sea and cannot get out of their way but though I have seen and been beset by them often yet the fright was always the greatest of the harm December the 1st we had a gentle gale at E. S. E. we steered South and at noon I was by Observation in lat 3 d. 34 m. South Then we saw the Island Bouton bearing South West and about 10 leagues distant We had very uncertain and unconstant Winds The Tornadoes came out of the S. W. which was against us and what other Winds we had were so saint that they did us little kinndess but we took the advantage of the smallest gale and got a little way every day The 4th day at noon I was by Observation in Lat. 4 d. 30 m. South The 5th day we got close by the N. W. end of the Island Bouton and in the evening it being fair weather we hoised out our Canoa and sent the Moskito men of whom we had 2 or 3 to strike Turtle for here are plenty of them but they being shy we chose to strike them in the night which is customary in the West Indies also For every time they come up to breathe which is once in 8 or 10 minutes they blow so hard that one may hear them at 30 or 40 yards distance by which means the Striker knows where they are and may more easily approach them than in the day for the Turtle sees bettter than he hears but on the contrary the Manatee's hearing is quickest In the morning they returned with a very large Turtle which they took near the shore and withal an Indian of the Island came aboard with them He spake the Malayan Language by which we did understand him He told us that 2 leagues farther to the Southward of us there was a good Harbour in which we might Anchor So having a fair Wind we got thither by noon This Harbour is in Lat. 4 d. 54 m. South lying on the East side of the Island Bouton Which Island lyes near the S. E. end of the Island Celebes distant from it about 3 or 4 leagues It is of a long form stretching S. W. and N. E. about 25 leagues long and 10 broad It is pretty high Land and appears pretty even and flat and very woody There is a large Town within a league of the anchoring
Mindanaian make for our own use which our Carpenters afterwards altered and made a delicate Boat fit for any service She was sharp at both ends but we saw'd off one and made that end flat fastening a Rudder to it and she rowed and sailed incomparably We stayed here but till the 12th day because it was a bad Harbour and foul ground and a bad time of the year too for the Tornadoes began to come in thick and strong When we went to weigh our Anchor it was hooked in a Rock and we broke our Cable and could not get our Anchor though we strove hard for it so we went away and left it there We had the Wind at N. N. E. and we steered towards the S. E. and fell in with 4 or 5 small Islands that lye in 5 d. 40 m. South lat and about 5 or 6 leagues from Callasusung Harbour These Islands appeared very green with Coco-nut Trees and we saw two or three Towns on them and heard a Drum all night for we were got in among shoals and could not get out again till the next day We know not whether the Drum were for fear of us or that they were making merry as 't is usual in these parts to do all the night singing and dancing till morning We found a pretty strong Tide here the flood setting to the Southward and the ebb to the Northward These shoals and many other that are not laid down in our Drafts lye on the South West side of the Islands where we heard the Drum about a league from them At last we past between the Islands and tried for a passage on the East side We met with divers shoals on this side also but found Channels to pass through so we steered away for the Island Timor intending to pass out by it We had the Winds commonly at W. S. W. and S. W. hard gales and rainy weather The 16th day we got clear of the shoals and steered S. by E. with the Wind at W. S. W. but veering every half hour sometimes at S. W. and then again at W. and sometimes at N. N. VV. bringing much Rain with Thunder and Lightening The 20th day we passed by the Island Omba which is a pretty high Island lying in lat 8 d. 20 m. and not above 5 or 6 leagues from the N. E. part of the Island Timor It is about 13 or 14 leagues long and five or six leagues wide About 7 or 8 leagues to the VVest of Omba is another pretty large Island but it had no name in our plats yet by the situation it should be that which in some Maps is called Pentare We saw on it abundance of smoaks by day and fires by night and a large Town on the North side of it nor far from the Sea but it was such bad weather that we did not go ashore Between Omba and Pentare and in the mid Channel there is a small low sandy Island with great shoals on either side but there is a very good Channel close by Pentare between that and the shoals about the small Isle We were three days beating off and on not having a wind for it was at South South West The 23d day in the evening having a small gale at North we got through keeping close by Pentare The Tide of ebb here set out to the Southward by which we were helped through for we had but little wind But this Tide which did us a kindness in setting us through had like to have ruined us afterwards for there are two small Islands lying at the South end of the Channel we came through and towards these Islands the Tide hurried us so swiftly that we very narrowly escaped being driven ashore for the little wind we had before at North dying away we had not one breath of wind when we came there neither was there an anchor ground But we got out our Oars and rowed yet all in vain for the Tide set wholly on one of the small Islands that we were forced with might and main strength to bear off the Ship by thrusting with our Oars against the shore which was a steep bank and by this means we presently drove away clear of Danger and having a little wind in the night at North we steered away S. S. W. In the morning again we had the wind at W. S. W. and steered S. and the wind coming to the W. N. W. we steered S. W. to get clear of the S. W. end of the Island Timor The 26th day we saw the N. W. point of Timor S. E. by E. distant about 8 leagues Timor is a long high mountainous Island stretching N. E. and S. VV. It is about 70 leagues long and 15 or 16 wide the middle of the Island is in Lat. about 9 d. South I have been informed that the Portuguese do trade to this Island but I know nothing of its produce besides Coire for making Cables of which there is mention Chap. X. The 27th day we saw two small Islands which lye near the S. W. end of Timor They bear from us S. E. We had very hard gales of wind and still with a great deal of Rain the wind at W. and W. S. W. Being now clear of all the Islands we stood off South intending to touch at New Holland a part of Terra Australis Incognita to see what that Country would afford us Indeed as the Winds were we could not now keep our intended course which was first Westerly and then Northerly without going to New Holland unless we had gone back again among the Islands but this was not a good time of the year to be among any Islands to the South of the Equator unless in a good Harbour The 31st day we were in lat 13 d. 20 m. still standing to the Southward the wind bearing commonly very hard at W. and we keeping upon it under 2 courses and our Mizen and sometimes a Main-top-sail rift About 10 a clock at night we tackt and stood to the Northward for fear of running on a shoal which is laid down in our Drafts in lat 13 d. 50 m. or thereabouts it bearing S. by W. from the East end of Timor and so the Island bore from us by our judgments and reckoning At 3 a clock we tackt again and stood S. by W. and S. S. W. In the morning assoon as it was day we saw the shoal right ahead it lies in 13 d. 50 m. by all our reckonings It is a small spit of hand just appearing above the waters edge with several Rocks about it 8 or 10 foot high above water It lies in a triangular form each side being about a league and half We stemm'd right with the middle of it and stood within half a mile of the Rocks and sounded but found no ground Then we went about and stood to the North 2 hours and then tackt and stood to the Southward again thinking to weather it but could not So
received this information by a Letter from the Frier that Captain Weldon brought away from thence But to proceed The 5th day of May we ran down on the West side of the Island Nicobar properly so called and anchored at the N. W. end of it in a small Bay in 8 fathom water not half a mile from the shore The body of this Island is in 7 d. 30 m. North Lat. it is about 12 leagues long and 3 or 4 broad The South end of it is pretty high with steep Cliffs against the Sea the rest of the Island is low flat and even The mold of it is black and deep and it is very well watered with small running streams It produceth abundance of tall Trees fit for any uses for the whole bulk of it seems to be but one entire Grove But that which adds most to its beauty off at Sea are the many spots of Coco-nut Trees which grow round it in every small Bay The Bays are half a mile or a mile long more or less and these Bays are intercepted or divided from each other with as many little rocky points of VVoodland As the Coco-nut Trees do thus grow in Groves fronting to the Sea in the Bays so there is another sort of Fruit Tree in the Bays bordering on the backside of the Coco Trees farther from the Sea It is called by the Natives a Melory Tree This Tree is as big as our large Apple Trees and as high It hath a blackish rind and a pretty broad leaf The Fruit is as big as the Bread-fruit at Guam described in Chapter X. or a large Penny Loaf It is shaped like a Pear and hath a pretty tough smooth rind of a light green colour The inside of the Fruit is in substance much like an Apple but full of small strings as big as a brown thread I did never see of these Trees any where but here The Natives of this Island are tall well-limb'd Men pretty long visaged with black Eyes their Noses middle proportioned and the whole Symmetry of their Faces agreeing very well Their Hair is black and lank and their Skins of a dark copper colour The Women have no Hair on their Eye-brows I do believe it is pluckt up by the roots for the Men had Hair growing on their Eye-brows as other People The Men go all naked save only a long narrow piece of cloath or Sash which going round their Wastes and thence down between their Thighs is brought up behind and tuckt in at that part which goes about the Waste The Women have a kind of a short Petticoat reaching from their Waste to their Knees Their Language was different from any that I had ever heard before yet they had some few Malayan words and some of them had a word or two of Portuguese which probably they might learn aboard of their Ships passing by this place for when these Men see a Sail they do presently go aboard of them in their Canoas I did not perceive any Form of Religion that they had they had neither Temple nor Idol nor any manner of outward veneration to any Deity that I did see They inhabit all round the Island by the Sea side in the Bays there being 4 or 5 Houses more or less in each Bay Their Houses are built on Posts as the Mindanaians are They are small low and of a square form There is but one Room in each House and this Room is about 8 foot from the ground and from thence the roof is raised about 8 foot higher But instead of a sharp ridge the top is exceeding neatly arched with small Rafters about the bigness of a Mans Arm bent round like a Half-Moon and very curiously thatched with Palmeto-leaves They live under no Government that I could perceive for they seem to be equal without any distinction every Man ruling in his own House Their Plantations are only those Coco-nut Trees which grow by the Sea side there being no cleared Land farther in on the Island for I observ'd that when past the Fruit Trees there were no paths to be seen going into the Woods The greatest use which they make of their Coco-Trees is to draw Toddy from them of which they are very fond The Melory Trees seem to grow wild they have great Earthen Pots to boil the Melory Fruit in which will hold 12 or 14 Gallons These Pots they fill with the Fruit and putting in a little water they cover the mouth of the Pot with leaves to keep in the steam while it boils When the Fruit is soft they peel off the rind and scrape the pulp from the strings with a flat stick made like a Knife and then make it up in great lumps as big as a Holland Cheese and then it will keep 6 or 7 days It looks yellow and tastes well and is their chiefest food for they have no Yams Potatoes Rice nor Plantains except a very few yet they have a few small Hogs and a very few Cocks and Hens like ours The Men imploy themselves in Fishing but I did not see much Fish that they got every House hath at least 2 or 3 Canoas belonging to it which they draw up ashore The Canoas that they go a fishing in are sharp at both ends and both the sides and the bottom are very thin and smooth They are shaped somewhat like the Proes at Guam with one side flattish and the other with a pretty big belly and they have small slight Outlagers on one side Being thus thin and light they are better managed with Oars than with Sails yet they sail well enought and are steer'd with a Paddle There commonly go 20 or 30 Men in one of these Canoas and seldom fewer than 9 or 10. Their Oars are short and they do not paddle but row with them as we do The Benches they sit on when they row are made of split Bambo's laid across and so near together that they look like a Deck The Bambos lie moveable so that when any go in to row they take up a Bambo in the place where they would sit and lay it by to make room for their Legs The Canoas of those of the rest of these Islands were like those of Nicobar and probably they were alike in other things for we saw no difference at all in the Natives of them who came hither while we were here But to proceed with our affairs it was as I said before the 5th day of May about 10 in the morning when we anchored at this Island Captain Read immediately ordered his Men to heel the Ship in order to clean her which was done this day and the next All the Water Vessels were fill'd they intending to go to Sea at night for the winds being yet at N. N. E. the Captain was in hopes to get over to Cape Comorin before the wind shifted Otherwise it would have been somewhat difficult for him to get thither because the Westerly Monsoon was now at hand I thought
They keeping at a distance rowed away faster than we did and got to the Bay before us and there with about 20 more Canoas full of Men they all landed and stood to hinder us from landing But we rowed in within a hundred yards of them Then we lay still and I took my Gun and presented at them at which they all fell down flat on the ground But I turn'd my self about and to shew that we did not intend to harm them I fired my Gun off to Sea so that they might see the Shot graze on the water Assoon as my Gun was loaden again we rowed gently in at which some of them withdrew The rest standing up did still cut and hew the Air making signs of their hatred till I once more frighted them with my Gun and discharg'd it as before Then more of them sneak'd away leaving only 5 or 6 Men on the Bay Then we rowed in again and Mr. Hall taking his Sword in his hand leapt ashore and I stood ready with my Gun to fire at the Indians if they had injured him but they did not stir till he came to them and saluted them He shook them by the hand and by such signs of friendship as he made the Peace was concluded ratified and confirmed by all that were present and others that were gone were again call'd back and they all very joyfully accepted of a Peace This became universal over all the Island to the great joy of the Inhabitants There was no ringing of Bells nor Bonfires made for that is not the custom here but gladness appeared in their Countenances for now they could go out and fish again without fear of being taken This peace was not more welcom to them than to us for now the Inhabitants brought their Melory again to us which we bought for old Rags and small stripes of Cloath about as broad as the palm of ones hand I did not see above 5 or 6 Hens for they have but few on the Island At some places we saw some small Hogs which we could have bought of them reasonably but we would not offend our Achinese Friends who were Mahometans We stayed here 2 or 3 days and then rowed toward the South end of the Island keeping on the East side and we were kindly received by the Natives where ever we came When we arrived at the South end of the Island we fitted our selves with Melory and Water We bought 3 or 4 Loaves of Melory and about 12 large Coco-nut shells that had all the Kernel taken out yet were preserved whole except only a small hole at one end and all these held for us about 3 gallons and a half of Water We bought also 2 or 3 Bambo's that held about 4 or 5 gallons more This was our Sea store We now designed to go to Achin a Town on the N. W. end of the Island Sumatra distant from hence about 40 leagues bearing South South East We only waited for the western Monsoon which we had expected a great while and now it seemed to be at hand for the Clouds began to hang their heads to the Eastward and at last moved gently that way and though the Wind was still at East yet this was an infallible sign that the western Monsoon was nigh CHAP. XVIII The Author with some other puts to Sea in an open Boat designing for Achin Their Accommodations for their Voyage Change of Weather a Halo about the Sun and a violent storm Their great danger and distress Cudda a Town and Harbour on the Coast of Malacca Pulo Way Golden Mountain on the Isle of Sumatra River and Town of Passenge-Jonca on Sumatra near Diamond-point where they go ashore very sick and are kindly entertained by the Oromkay and Inhabitants They go thence to Achin The Author is examined before the Shabander and takes Physick of a Malayan Doctor His long illness He sets out towards Nicobar again but returns suddenly to Achin Road. He makes several Voyages thence to Tonqueen to Malacca to Fort St. George and to Bencouli an English Factory on Sumatra An account of the Ships Crew who set the Author ashore at Nicobar Some go to Trangambar a Danish Fort on Coromandel others to Fort St. George many to the Mogul's Camp Of the Peuns and how John Oliver made himself a Captain Captain Read with the rest having plundered a rich Portuguese Ship near Ceylon goes to Madagascar and Ships himself off thence in a New-york Ship The Traverses of the rest to Johanna c. Their Ship the Cygnet of London now lies sunk in Augustin Bay at Madagascar Of Prince Jeoly the Painted man whom the Author brought with him to England and who died at Oxford Of his Country the Isle of Meangis the Cloves there c. The Author is made Gunner of Bencouli but is forced to slip away from thence to come for England IT was the 15th day of May 1688 about 4 a clock in the afternoon when we left Nicobar Island directing our course toward Achin being 8 men of us in Company viz. 3 English 4 Malayans who were born at Achin and the mungrel Portuguese Our Vessel the Nicobar Canoa was not one of the biggest nor of the least size She was much about the burthen of one of our London Wherrys below Bridge and built sharp at both ends like the fore part of a Wherry She was deeper than a Wherry but not so broad and was so thin and light that when empty 4 men could launch her or hale her ashore on a sandy Bay We had a good substantial Mast and a mat Sail and good Outlagers lasht very fast and firm on each side the Vessel being made of strong poles So that while these continued firm the Vessel could not overset which she would easily have done without them and with them too had they not been made very strong and we were therefore much beholding to our Achinese Companions for this contrivance These men were none of them so sensible of the danger as Mr. Hall and my self for they all consided so much in us that they did not so much as scruple any thing that we did approve of Neither was Mr. Hall so well provided as I was for before we left the Ship I had purposely consulted our Draft of the East Indies for we had but one in the Ship and out of that I had written in my pocket-book an account of the bearing and distance of all the Malacca Coast and that of Sumatra Pegu and Siam and also brought away with me a pocket Compass for my direction in any enterprize that I should undertake The weather at our setting out was very fair clear and hot The Wind was still at S. E. a very small breeze just fanning the Air and the Clouds were moving gently from West to East which gave us hopes that the Winds were either at West already abroad at Sea or would be so in a very short time We took this opportunity of fair weather
So he gave over that design and some English Ships coming into Achin Road he was not afraid of the Siamers who lay there After this he again invited me to his House at Achin and treated me always with Wine and good Cheer and still importuned me to go with him to Persia but I being very weak and fearing the Westerly Winds would create a great deal of trouble did not give him a positive answer especially because I thought I might get a better Voyage in the English Ships newly arrived or some others now expected here It was this Captain Bowry who sent the Letter from Borneo directed to the Chief of the English Factory at Mindanao of which mention is made in Chapter the XIII A short time after this Captain Welden arrived here from Fort St. George in a Ship called the Curtana bound to Tonqueen This being a more agreeable Voyage than to Persia at this time of the year besides that the Ship was better accommodated especially with a Surgeon and I being still sick I therefore chose rather to serve Captain Welden than Captain Bowry But to go on with a particular account of that Expedition were to carry my Reader back again whom having brought thus far towards England in my Circum-Navigation of the Globe I shall not now weary him with new Rambles nor so much swell this Volume as I must to describe the Tour I made in those remote parts of the East Indies from and to Sumatra So that my Voyage to Tonqueen at this time as also another to Malacca afterwards with my Observations in them and the Descriptions of those and the Neighbouring Countries as well as the Description of the Island Sumatra it self and therein the Kingdom and City of Aehin Bencouli c. I shall refer to another place where I may give a particular relation of them In short it may suffice that I set out to Tonqueen with Captain Welden about July 1688 and returned to Achin in the April following I staid here till the latter end of September 1689. and making a short Voyage to Malacca came thither again about Christmas Soon after that I went to Fort St. George and staying there about 5 months I return'd once more to Sumatra not to Achin but Bencouli an English Factory on the West Coast of which I was Gunner about 5 months more So that having brought my Reader to Sumatra without carrying him back I shall bring him on next way from thence to England And of all that occurr'd between my first setting out from this Island in 1688 and my final departure from it at the beginning of the year 1691 I shall only take notice at present of two passages which I think I ought not to omit The first is that at my Return from Malacca a little before Christmas 1689 I found at Achin one Mr. Morgan who was one of our Ships Crew that left me ashore at Nicobar now Mate of a Danish Ship of Trangambar which is a Town on the Coast of Coromandel near Cape Comorin belonging to the Danes And receiving an account of our Crew from him and others I thought it might not be amiss to gratifie the Readers Curiosity therewith who would probably be desirous to know the success of those Ramblers in their new intended Expedition towards the Red Sea and withal I thought it might not be unlikely that these Papers may fall into the hands of some of our London Merchants who were concern'd in fitting out that Ship which I said formerly was called the Cygnet of London sent on a Trading Voyage into the South Seas under the Command of Captain Swan and that they might be willing to have a particular Information of the fate of their Ship And by the way even before this meeting with Mr. Morgan while I was at Tonqueen January 1689 I met with an English Ship in the River of Tonqueen called the Rainbow of London Captain Poole Commander by whose Mate Mr. Barlow who was returning in that Ship to England I sent a Pacquet which he undertook to deliver to the Merchants Owners of the Cygnet some of which he said he knew wherein I gave a particular account of all the Course and Transactions of their Ship from the time of my first meeting it in the South Seas and going aboard it there to its leaving me ashore at Nicobar But I never could hear that either that or other Letters which I sent at the same time were received To proceed therefore with Morgan's Relation He told me that when they in the Cygnet went away from Nicobar in pursuit of their intended Voyage to Persia they directed their course towards Ceylon But not being able to weather it the Westerly Monsoon bearing hard against them they were obliged to seek refreshment on the Coast of Coromandel Here this mad fickle crew were upon new projects again Their designs meeting with such delays and obstructions they many of them grew weary of it and about half of them went ashore Of this number Mr. Morgan who told me this and Mr. Herman Coppinger the Surgeon went to the Danes at Trangambar who kindly received them There they lived very well and Mr. Morgan was employed as a Mate in a Ship of theirs at this time to Achin and Captain Knox tells me that he since Commanded the Curtana the Ship that I went in to Tonqueen which Captain Welden having sold to the Mogul's Subjects they employed Mr. Morgan as Captain to trade in her for them and it is an usual thing for the trading Indians to hire Europeans to go Officers on board their Ships especially Captains and Gunners About two or three more of these that were set ashore went to Fort St. George but the main body of them were for going into the Mogul's Service Our Seamen are apt to have great notions of I know not what profit and advantages to be had in serving the Mogul nor do they want for fine storiesto encourage one another to it It was what these men had long been thinking and talking of as a fine thing but now they went upon it in good earnest The place where they went ashore was at a Town of the Moors which name our Seamen give to all the Subjects of the great Mogul but especially his Mahometan Subjects calling the Idolaters Gentous or Rashbouts At this Moors Town they got a Peun to be their Guide to the Mogul's nearest Camp for he hath always several Armies in his vast Empire These Peuns are some of the Gentous or Rashbouts who in all places along the Coast especially in Sea-port Towns make it their business to hire themselves to wait upon strangers be they Merchants Seamen or what they will To qualify them for such attendance they learn the European Languages English Dutch French Portuguese c. according as they have any of the Factories of these Nations in their Neighbourhood or are visited by their Ships No sooner doth any such Ship come to an Anchor and
Esperance or of Good Hope finding that they might now proceed Eastward There is good Sounding off this Cape 50 or 60 leagues at Sea to the Southward and therefore our English Seamen standing over as they usually do from the Coast of Brazil content themselves with their Soundings concluding thereby that they are abrest of the Cape they often pass by without seeing it and begin to shape their course Northward They have several other signs whereby to know when they are near it as by the Sea-Fowl they meet at Sea especially the Algatrosses a very large long-winged Bird and the Mangovolucres a smaller Fowl But the greatest dependance of our English Seamen now is upon their observing the variation of the Compass which is very carefully minded when they come near the Cape by taking the Suns Amplitude mornings and evening This they are so exact in that by the help of the Azimuth Compass an Instrument more peculiar to the Seamen of our Nations they know when they are abrest of the Cape or are either to the East or the West of it and for that reason though they should be to Southward of all the Soundings or fathomable ground they can shape their course right without being obliged to make the Land But the Dutch on the contrary having settled themselves on this Promontory do always touch here in their East India Voyages both going and coming The most remarkable Land at Sea is a high Mountain steep to the Sea with a flat even top which is called the Table Land On the West side of the Cape a little to the Northward of it there is a spacious Harbour with a low flat Island lying off it which you may leave on either hand and pass in or out securely at either end Ships that anchor here ride near the Main Land leaving the Island at a farther distance without them The Land by the Sea against the Harbour is low but backt with high Mountains a little way in to the Southward of it The Soil of this Country is of a brown colour not deep yet indifferently productive of Grass Herbs and Trees The Grass is short like that which grows on our Wiltshire or Dorsetshire Downs The Trees hereabouts are but small and few the Country also farther from the Sea does not much abound in Trees as I have been informed The Mould or Soyl also is much like this near the Harbour which though it cannot be said to be very fat or rich Land yet it is very fit for cultivation and yields good Crops to the industrious Husbandman and the Country is pretty well settled with Farms Dutch Families and French Refugees for 20 or 30 leagues up the Country but there are but few Farms near the Harbour Here grows plenty of Wheat Barly Pease c. Here are also Fruits of many kinds as Apples Pears Quinces and the largest Pomgranats that I did ever see The chief Fruits are Grapes These thrive very well and the Country is of late years so well stockt with Vineyards that they make abundance of Wine of which they have enough and to spare and do sell great quantities to Ships that touch here This Wine is like a French High Country White Wine but of a pale yellowish colour it is sweet very pleasant and strong The tame Animals of this Country are Sheep Goats Hogs Cows Horses c. The Sheep are very large and fat for they thrive very well here This being a dry Country and the short pasturage very agreeable to these Creatures but it is not so proper for great Cattle neither is the Beef in its kind so sweet as the Mutton Of wild Beasts 't is said here are several sorts but I saw none However it is very likely there are some wild Beasts that prey on the Sheep because they are commonly brought into the Houses in the night and penn'd up There is a very beautiful sort of wild Al 's in this Country whose body is curiously striped with equal lists of white and black the stripes coming from the ridge of his Back and ending under the Belly which is white These stripes are two or three Fingers broad running parallel with each other and curiously intermixt one white and one black over from the Shoulder to the Rump I saw two of the Skins of these Beasts dried and preserved to be sent to Halland as a rarity They seemed big enough to inclose the Body of a Beast as big as a large Colt of a twelvemonth old Here are a great many Ducks Dunghil Fowls c. and Ostriges are plentifully found in the dry Mountains and Plains I eat of their Eggs here and those of whom I bought them told me that these creatures lay their Eggs in the Sand or at least on dry ground and so leave them to be hatch'd by the Sun The meat of one of their Eggs will suffice two men very well The Inhabitants do preserve the Eggs that they find to sell to strangers They were pretty scarce when I was here it being the beginning of their Winter whereas I was told they lay their Eggs about Christmas which is their Summer The Sea hereabouts affords plenty of Fish of divers sorts especially a small sort of Fish not so big as a Herring whereof they have such great plenty that they pickle great quantities yearly and send them to Europe Seales are also in great numbers about the Cape which as I have still observed is a good sign of the plentifulness of Fish which is their food The Dutch have a strong Fort by the Sea side against the Harbour where the Governour lives At about 2 or 300 paces distance from thence on the West side of the Fort there is a small Dutch Town in which I told about 50 or 60 Houses low but well built with Stone-walls there being plenty of Stone drawn out of a Quarry close by On the backside of the Town as you go towards the Mountains the Dutch East-India Company have a large House and a stately Garden walled in with a high Stone Wall This Garden is full of divers sorts of Herbs Flowers Roots and Fruits with curious spacious Gravel-walks and Arbors and is watered with a Brook that descends out of the Mountains which being cut into many channels is conveyed into all parts of the Garden The Hedges which make the Walks are very thick and 9 or 10 foot high They are kept exceeding neat and even by continual pruning There are lower Hedges within these again which serve to separate the Fruit-trees from each other but without shading them and they keep each sort of Fruit by themselves as Apples Pears abundance of Quinces Pomgranats c. These all prosper very well and bear good Fruit especially the Pomgranat The Roots and Garden-herbs have also their distinct places hedged in apart by themselves and all in such order that it is exceeding pleasant and beautiful There are a great number of Negro Slaves brought from other parts of the
d. North. It is much frequented by the Cochinchinese whose Country begins hereabouts bordering on the Kingdom of Champa They are most Fishermen that come hither and their chief business is to make Oyl of Porpusses for these Fish are found in great plenty here at some seasons of the year and then the Cochinchinese resort hither to take them The people that we found on Pulo Condore mentioned in the 14th Chapter of my Voyage round the World page 395 were of these Cochinchinese The Turtle also which they catch is chiefly in order to make Oyl of their fat and there is great store of Turtle on all this Coast. We coasted yet farther on this shore till we came to the Islands of Champello These may seem to have some affinity to Champa by the sound of the word which one would take to be a Portuguese diminutive of Champa yet they lye on the Cochinchina Coast and belong to it tho uninhabited They are 4 or 5 in number and lye 4 or 5 leagues from the shore They are called Champello de la Mar to distinguish them from others lying farther down in the Bay of Tonquin called Champello de Terra These last lye in about 16 d. 45 m. North but the Islands of Champello de la Mar lye in about 13 d. 45 m. N. Over against these last Islands on the Main there is a large navigable River empties itself into the Sea The City of Quinam stands on the banks of this River and is said to be the principal City of the Kingdom of Cochinchina As to its distance from the Sea its bigness strength riches c. I am yet in the dark only I have been inform'd that if a Ship is cast away on this Kingdom the Seamen that escape drowning and get ashore become Slaves to the King Captain John Tiler was thus served and despaired of ever getting his freedom but after a considerable stay there he was taken notice of by the King and upon promise of returning thither again to trade there he was sent away I sailed in a Vessel of his after this but I never found him inclined to Trade thither any more However notwithstanding this their severity to Shipwrackt people I have been informed by Captain Tiler and others that they have a desire to Trade tho' they are yet destitute of the means to attain it This desire of Trade they seem to have taken up from some Chinese fugitives who fled from the Tartars when they conquered their Country and being kindly received by these Cochinchinese and having among them many Artificers they instructed their kind protectors in many useful Arts of which they were wholly ignorant before 'T is probable this their custom of seizing Shipwrackt Seamen may soon vanish by the coming in of Trade which is already advancing among them for the Merchants of China do now drive some small traffick among these people and fetch thence some small quantities of Pepper Lignum Aloes and Aguala Wood which is much esteemed for its rare scent and is very valuable in other places of India They also fetch Betle from hence it growing here in great plenty I have had no account of any Shipping the Cochinchinese have of their own but I have met with them in their open Boats of 4 5 or 6 Tun imploying themselves chiefly in getting Pitch and Tar from Pulo Condore in fishing about the Coast and Island to get Oyl and in fetching Aguala Wood from the Bay of Siam which whether it grows there or no I can't tell but I have heard that 't is only drift wood cast ashore by the Sea The seizing Shipwrackt-men has been also a custom at Pegu but whether still continued I know not They lookt on such as men preserved by God purposely for them to feed and maintain and therefore the King ordered them to be maintained by his Subjects neither was any work required of them but they had liberty to beg By this means they got food and rayment from the Inhabitauts who were zealously charitable to them But to proceed we kept a little without all the Islands and coasting 5 or 6 leagues further we stood right over towards the N. E. Cod of the Bay of Tonquin The Bay of Tonquin has its entrance between the S. E. point of Champa on the West side which lies in the lat of about 12 d. North and the Island of Aynam near the S. W. part of China on the East side The Island of Aynam is in about 19 d. North. It is a pretty considerable Island well peopled with Chinese Inhabitants They have Ships of their own and drive a great trade by Sea I have seen many of their Ships some of 100 Tun with Outlagers on both sides and others like ordinary Jonks without Outlagers but am wholly ignorant of their Trade any farther than what I have mentioned of their having Pearl Oysters there in the 7th Chapter of my Voyage round the World page 174. Near the Cod of the Bay of Tonquin there are abundance of small Islands of which I shall speak more hereafter The mouth of the Bay seems to be barr'd up with the great shole of Pracel which lies stretched at length before it yet leaving two wide Channels one at each end so that Ships may pass in or out either way And therefore even the Ships that are bound from the Streights of Malacca or Siam to China may as well pass to and fro within the shole at without The Bay of Tonquin is about 30 leagues wide in the broadest place There is good sounding and anchoring all over it and in the middle where it is deepest there is about 46 fathom water There you have black Oaz and dark Peppery Sand but on the West side there is reddish Oazy Sand. Beside the other Islands before-mentioned there are others of less note on the Cochinchina Coast but none of them all above 4 or 5 miles from the shore In the bottom of the Bay also there are some small Islands close by the Tonquin shore 2 of these are of especial note not for their bigness but for Sea-marks for the 2 principal Rivers or mouth rather of the chief River of Tonquin One of these Rivers or Mouths is call'd Rokko It discharges it self into the Sea near the N. W. corner of the Bay and the mouth of it is in about 20 d. 6m N. This River or branch I was not at but have been informed that it has not above 12 foot water at the entrance but that its bottom is soft Oaz and therefore very convenient for small Vessels and it is the way that all the Chinese and Siamers do use About a League to the Westward of this Rivers mouth there is a small pretty high Island called Fishers Island It lyeth about 2 mile from the shore and it hath good anchoring about it in 17 or 18 foot water and therefore it is not only a Sea-mark for the River but a secure place to ride in
great deal less The outside rind or shell is a little thicker than that of the Pomgranate but softer yet more brittle and and is of a dark red The inside of the shell is of a deep crimson colour Within this shell the Fruit appears in 3 or 4 Cloves about the bigness of the top of a man's thumb These will easily separate each from the other they are as white as Milk very soft and juicy inclosing a small black Stone or Kernel The outside rind is said to be binding and therefore many when they eat the Fruit which is very delicious do save the rind or shell drying it and preserving it to give to such as have Fluxes In a small Book entitled A new Voyage to the East Indies there is mention made of Mangastans among the Fruits of Java but the Author is mistaken in that he compares it to a Sloe in shape and taste Yet I remember there is such a sort of Fruit at Achin and believe by the description he gives of it it may probably be the same that he calls the Mangastan tho nothing like the true Mangastan The Pumple-nose is a large Fruit like a Citron with a very thick tender uneven rind The inside is full of Fruit it grows all in cloves as big as a small Barly-corn and these are all full of juice as an Orange or a Lemon tho not growing in such partitions 'T is of a pleasant taste and tho there are of them in other parts of the East Indies yet these at Achin are accounted the best They are ripe commonly about Christmas and they are so much esteemed that English men carry them from hence to Fort St George and make presents of them to their Friends there The other Fruits mentioned here are most of them described by me in my first Volume The eatable Roots of this Country are Yams and Potatoes c. but their chiefest bread kind is Rice The Natives have lately planted some quantities of this Grain and might produce much more were they so disposed the Land being so fruitful They have here a sort of Herb or Plant called Ganga or Bang I never saw any but once and that was at some distance from me It appeared to me like Hemp and I thought it had been Hemp till I was told to the contrary It is reported of this Plant that if it is infused in any Liquor it will stupify the brains of any person that drinks thereof but it operates diversly according to the constitution of the person Some it makes sleepy some merry putting them into a Laughing fit and others it makes mad but after 2 or 3 hours they come to themselves again I never saw the effects of it on any person but have heard much discourse of it What other use this Plant may serve for I know not but I know it is much esteemed here and in other places too whither it is transported This Country abounds also with Medicinal Drugs and Herbs and with variety of Herbs for the Pot. The chief of their Drugs is Camphire of which there are quantities found on this Island but most of it either on the borders of this Kingdom to the Southward or more remote still without the precincts of it This that is found on the Island Sumatra is commonly sent to Japan to be refined and then brought from thence pure and transported whither the Merchants please afterwards I know that here are several sorts of Medicinal Herbs made use of by the Natives who go often a simpling seeming to understand their Virtues much and making great use of them but this being wholly out of my sphere I can give no account of them and tho here are plenty of Pot Herbs yet I know the names of none but Onions of which they have great abundance and of a very good sort but small There are many other very profitable Commodities on this Island but some of them are more peculiar to other parts of it than Achin especially Pepper All the Island abounds with that Spice except only this North West end at least so much of it as is comprehended within the Kingdom of Achin Whether this defect is through the negligence or laziness of these people I know not Gold also is found by report in many parts of this Island but the Kingdom of Achin is at present most plentifully stored with it Neither does any place in the East Indies that I know of yield such quantities of it as this Kingdom I have never been at Japan and therefore can make no estimate of the great riches of that Kingdom but here I am certain there is abundance of it The Land Animals of this Country are Deer Hogs Elephants Goats Bullocks Buffaloes Horses Porcupines Monkeys Squirrils Guanoes Lizards Snakes c. Here are also abundance of Ants of several sorts and Woodlice called by the English in the East Indies White Ants. The Elephants that I saw here were all tame yet 't is reported there are some wild but I judge not many if any at all In some places there are plenty of Hogs they are all wild and commonly very poor At some times of the year when the wild Fruits fall from the Trees they are indifferent fat or at least fleshy and then they are sweet and good they are very numerous and whether for that reason or scarcity of food it is very rare to find them fat The Goats are not very many neither are there many Bullocks but the Savannahs swarm with Buffaloes belonging to some or other of the Inhabitants who milk them and eat them but don 't work them so far as I saw The Horses of this Country are but small yet sprightly and sometimes they are transported hence to the Coast of Coromandel The Porcupines and Squirrels are accounted good food by the English but how they are esteemed by the Natives I know not The Fowls of this Country are Dunghil Fowls and Ducks but I know of no other tame Fowls they have In the Woods there are many sorts of wild Fowls viz. Maccaws Parrots Parakites Pigeons and Doves of 3 or 4 sorts There are plenty of other small Birds but I can say nothing of them The Rivers of this Country afford plenty of Fish The Sea also supplys divers sorts of very good Fish viz. Snooks Mullets Mudfish Eels Stingrays which I shall describe in the Bay of Campeachy Ten pounders Old Wives Cavallies Craw-fish Shrimps c. The Natives of this Country are Malayans They are much the same people with those of Queda Jihore and other places on the Continent of Malacca speaking the same Malayan Language with very little difference and they are of the same Mahometan Religion and alike in their haughty humour and manner of living so that they seem to have been originally the same people They are people of a middle stature straight and well shaped and of a dark Indian copper colour Their Hair is black and lank their Faces generally pretty
to these Moors are obliged to joyn Stock with them and they first make an offer of it to them as a kindness and the Moors being generally desirous to Trade frequently accept of it almost on any terms but should they be unwilling yet dare they not refuse for fear of disobliging the Danes who are Lords of the place In this Ship I found Mr Coppenger and he was the first that I had seen of all the Company that left me at the Nicobar Islands The next morning we filled our water and weigh'd again the Dane being gone a little before He was bound to Jihore to load Pepper but intended to touch at Malacca as most Ships do that pass these Streights He also sailed better than we and therefore left us to follow him We stood on yet nearest to the Sumatra shore till we came in sight of Pulo Arii in Lat 3 d 2 m. N. These are several Islands lying S. E. by E. l Easterly from Pulo Verero about 32 leagues distant These Islands are good marks for Ships bound thro the Streights for when they bear S. E. at 3 or 4 leagues distance you may steer away E. by S. for the Malacca Shore from whence you then may be about 20 leagues The first Land you will see is Pulo Parselore which is a high peeked Hill in the Country on the Malacca Coast which standing by it self amidst a low Country it appears like an Island tho I know not whether it is is really one for it stands some miles within the shoar of the Continent of Malacca It is a very remarkable Hill and the only Sea mark for Seamen to guide themselves through certain Sands that lye near the Main and if it is thick hazy Weather and the hill is obscur'd Pilots unless they are very knowing in the Soundings will hardly venture in for the Channel is not above a league wide and there are large shoals on each side These shoals lye ten leagues from Pulo Arii and continue till within 2 or 3 of the Malacca shoar In the Channel there is 12 or 14 fathom water but you may keep in 7 or 8 fathom on either side and sounding all the way you may pass on without danger We had a good gale at West which brought us in sight of Pulo Parsalore and so we kept sounding till we came within the shoar and then we had the Town of Malacca about 18 leagues distant from us to the S. E. and by E. Being shot over to the Malacca shore there is good wide Channel to sail in you having the shoals on one side and the Land on the other to which last you may come as nigh as you see convenient for there is water enough and good anchoring The Tide runs pretty strong here the Flood sets to the Eastward and the Ebb to the West and therefore when there is little wind and Ships cannot stem the Tide they commonly anchor But we being in with the Malacca shoar had a westerly Wind which brought us before Malacca Town about the middle of October and here I first heard that King William and Queen Mary were Crowned King and Queen of England The Dane that left us at Pulo Verero was not yet arrived for as we afterwards understood they could not find the way through the Sands but were forc'd to keep along without them and fetch a great Compass about which retarded their Passage Malacca is a pretty large Town of about 2 or 300 Families of Dutch and Portuguese many of which are a mixt breed between those Nations There are also many of the Native Malayans inhabiting in small Cottages on the skirts of the Town The Dutch Houses are built with Stone and the Streets are wide and straight but not paved At the N. West of the Town there is a Wall and Gate to pass in and out and a small Fort always guarded with Soldiers The Town stands on a level low ground close by the Sea The Land on the backside of the Town seems to be morassy and on the West side without the Wall there are Gardens of Fruits and Herbs and some fair Dutch Houses but that quarter is chiefly the habitation of the Malayans On the East side of the Town there is a small River which at a Spring Tide will admit small Barks to enter About 100 paces from the Sea there is a Draw bridge which leads from the midst of the Town to a strong Fort built on the East side of the River This is the chief Fort and is built on a low level ground close by the Sea at the foot of a little steep Hill Its form is semicircular according to the natural position of the adjacent Hill It fronts chiefly to the Sea and having its foundation on firm Rocks the Walls are carried up to a good heighth and of a considerable thickness The lower part of is washed by the Sea every Tide On the back of the Hill the Land being naturally low there is a very large Moat cut from the Sea to the River which makes the whole an Island and that back part is stockadoed round with great Trees set up an end so that there is no entring when once the Draw-bridge is haled up On the Hill within the Fort stands a small Church big enough to receive all Towns people who come hither on Sundays to hear Divine service and on the Main beyond the Fort the Malayans are also seated close by the Sea The first Europeans who settled here were the Portuguese They also built the great Fort but whether they moted round the Hill and made an Island of that spot of ground I know not nor what charges have been bestowed on it since to make it defenceable nor what other alterations have been made but the whole building seems to be pretty antient and that part of it which fronts to the Sea was in all probability built by the Portuguese for there are still the marks of the Conquerors shot in the Walls It is a place so naturally strong that I even wonder how they could be beaten out but when I consider what other places they then lost and their mismanagements I am the less surprized at it The Portuguese were the first discoverers by Sea of the East Indies and had thereby the Advantage of Trade with these 〈◊〉 Eastern people as also an opportunity thro their weakness to settle themselves where they pleased Therefore they made Settlements and Forts among them in divers places of India as here for one and presuming upon the strength of their Forts they insulted over the Natives and being grown rich with Trade they fell to all manner of looseness and debauchery the usual concomitant of Wealth and as commonly the fore runner of Ruin The Portuguese at this place by report made use of the Native Women at their pleasure whether Virgins or Married Women luch as they liked they took without controle and it is probable they as little restrained their lust in
Then we weighed again having a small land Wind but the Tyde of flood was against us and drove us to the Eastward When the Ebb came we jogged on and got about 3 leagues anchoring when the Flood came because the Winds were against us Thus we continued plying with the Ebb and anchoring every flood till we came to Pulo Parsalore where the Captain told me he would not go out the same way we came in as I would have perswaded him but kept the Malacca Shore aboard and past within the Sholes But in a few Hours after we ran upon a Shole driven on it by the Tide of Flood which here set to the Eastward tho by our Reckoning it should have been half Ebb and the Flood should have set Westward as we had it all the rest of the way from Malacca but the Sholes probably caused some whirling about of the Tide However the Sand we were struck upon was not above an 100 yards in circumference and the flood being rising we waited the time of high water and then drove over it having sent our Boat to discover how the Sholes lay while our Ship was aground Mr Richards all the while being in great fear lest the Malayans should come off in their Boats and attack the Vessel We were now afloat again and soon got without all the Sholes yet we did not stand over towards Sumatra but coasted along nearest the Malacca shore it being now most proper for us so to do yet for having the winds Westerly we could not have beat under the other shore 2 or 3 days after this we had sight of some Islands called Pulo Sambilong which in the Malayan Language signifies nine Islands there being so many of them lying scattering at unequal distances from each other It was near one of these Islands that Captain Minchin in a former Voyage was like to lose his hand by a prick with a Cat fishes Fin as I have said in my former Vol. p. 149. and tho his hand was cured yet he has lost the use of it ever since and is never likely to regain it more We stood in pretty near the shore in hopes to gain a fresh Land Wind. About 10 a Clock the Land Wind came off a gentle breez and we coasted along shore But a small Tornado coming off from the shore about midnight we broke our Mizen yard and being near a Dutch Island called Pulo Dinding we made in for it and anchored there the night ensuing and found there a Dutch Sloop mann'd with about 30 Soldiers at an anchor This is a small Island lying so nigh the main that Ships passing by cannot know it to be an Island It is pretty high Land and well watered with Brooks The mold is blackish deep and fat in the lower ground but the Hills are somewhat Rocky yet in general very woody The Trees are of divers sorts many of which are good Timber and large enough for any use Here are also some good for Masts and Yards they being naturally light yet tough and serviceable There s good riding on the East side between the Island and the Main You may come in with the Sea breeze and go out with a Land wind there is water enough and a secure Harbour The Dutch who are the only Inhabitants have a Fort on the East side close by the Sea in a bending of the Island which makes a small Cove for Ships to anchor in The Fort is built 4 square without Flankers or Bastions like a house every square is about 10 or 12 yards The Walls are of a good thickness made of stone and carried up to a good heighth of about 30 foot and covered over head like a dwelling House There may be about 12 or 14 Gnns in it some looking out at every square These Guns are mounted on a strong Platform made within the Walls about 16 Foot high and there are steps on the outside to ascend to the Door that opens to the Platform there being no other way into the Fort. Here is a Governour and about 20 or 30 Souldiers who all lodge in the Fort. The Soldiers have their lodging in the Platform among the Guns but the Governour has a fair Chamber above it where he lies with some of the Officers About a hundred yards from the Fort on the Bay by the Sea there is a low timbered House where the Governour abides all the day time In this House there were two or three Rooms for their use but the chiefest was the Governours Dining Room This fronted to the Sea and the end of it looked towards the Fort. There were two large Windows of about 7 or 8 foot square the lower part of them about 4 or 5 foot from the ground These Windows were wont to be left open all the day to let in the refreshing breeze but in the night when the Governour withdrew to the Fort they were closed with strong shutters and the Doors made fast till the next day The Continent of Malacca opposite to the Island is pretty low champion Land cloathed with lofty Woods and right against the Bay where the Dutch Fort stands there is a navigable River for small craft The product of the Country thereabouts besides Rice and other eatables is Tutaneg a sort of Tin I think courser than ours The Natives are Malayans who as I have always observed are bold and treacherous yet the trading people are affable and courteous to Merchants These are in all respects as to their Religion Custom and manner of Living like other Malayans Whether they are governed by a King or Raja or what other manner of Government they live under I know not They have Canoas and Boats of their own and with these they fish and traffick among themselves but the Tin Trade is that which has formerly drawn Merchant Strangers thither But tho the Country might probably yield great quantities of this metal and the Natives are not only inclinable but very desirous to trade with Strangers yet are they now restrained by the Dutch who have monopoliz'd that Trade to themselves It was probably for the lucre of this Trade that the Dutch built the Fort on the Island but this not wholly answering their ends by reason of the distance between it and the Rivers mouth which is about 4 or 5 miles they have also a Guardship commonly lying here and a Sloop with 20 or 30 armed men to hinder other Nations from this Trade For this Tutaneg or Tin is a valuable Commodity in the Bay of Bengal and here purchased reasonably by giving other Commodities in exchange neither is this Commodity peculiarly found hereabouts but farther Northerly also on the Coast and particularly in the Kingdom of Queda there is much of it The Dutch also commonly keep a Guardship and have made some fruitless essays to bring that Prince and his Subjects to trade only with them but here over against P. Dinding no strangers dare approach to trade neither may any Ship
Dutch was much infested by them These Indians as I have heard had formerly Plantations on most of the Caribbe Islands and in their Sea Voyages did use to remain 3 Weeks or a Month at a time on an Island and then remove to another and so visit most of them before their return to the main St. Vincent is another of these Islands lying near St. Lucia We passed between them and seeing a smoke on St. Lucia we sent our Boat ashore there Our Men found some of the Caribee-Indians and bought of them Plantains Bonanos Pine Apples and Sugar Canes and returning aboard again there came with them a Canoa with 3 or 4 of the Indians These often repeated the word Captain Warner and seemed to be in some disquiet about him We did not then understand the meaning of it but since I have been informed that this Captain Warner whom they mentioned was born at Antego one of our English Islands and the Son of Governour Warner by an Indian Woman and bred up by his Father after the English manner he learned the Indian Language also of his Mother but being grown up and finding himself despised by his English Kindred he forsook his Fathers House got away to St. Lucia and there lived among the Caribbe Indians his Relations by the Mother side Where conforming himself to their Customs he became one of their Captains and roved from one Island to another as they did About this time the Caribbees had done some spoil on our English Plantations at Antego and therefore Governour Warner's Son by his Wife took a Party of Men and went to suppress those Indians and came to the place where his Brother the Indian Warner lived Great seeming Joy there was at their Meeting but how far it was real the Event shewed for the English Warner providing plenty of Liquor and inviting his half Brother to be merry with him in the midst of his Entertainment ordered his Men upon a signal given to murder him and all his Indians which was accordingly performed The Reason of this inhumane Action is diversly reported Some say that this Indian-Warner committed all the spoil that was done to the English and therefore for that Reason his Brother kill'd him and his Men. Others that he was a great Friend to the English and would not suffer his Men to hurt them but did all that lay in his power to draw them to an amicable Commerce and that his Brother kill'd him for that he was ashamed to be related to an Indian But be it how it will he was call'd in question for the Murder and forced to come home to take his Tryal in England Such perfidious Doings as these beside the Baseness of them are great hindrances of our gaining an Interest among the Indians Putting from these Islands we steered away further West and falling in with the East end of Hispaniola we ranged down along on the South side even to Cape Tiburon which is the West-end of the Island There we lay by and sent our Boat ashore for Captain Kent had been informed that there were great Groves of Orange-Trees near this Cape But our Men not finding any he then concluded there were none But I have been since informed my self by several that have been there that there are enough of them thereabouts From hence we steered away for Jamaica where we arrived in a short time bringing with us the first News they had of the Peace with the Dutch Here according to my Contract I was immediately discharged and the next day I went to the Spanish Town call'd Sant ' Jago de la Vega where meeting with Mr. Whalley we went together to Coll. Hellier's Plantation in 16 Mile-walk In our way thither we past through Sir Tho. Muddiford's Plantation at the Angells where at that time were Otta and Cacao-Trees growing and fording a pretty large River we past by the side of it 2 or 3 Miles up the stream there being high Mountains on each side The way to 16 Mile-walk was formerly a great deal about round a large Mountain till Mr. Cary Helliar the Collonel's Brother found out this way For being desirous of making out a shorter cut he and some others coasted along the River till they found it run between a Rock that stood up perpendicularly steep on each side and with much difficulty they climbed over it But a Dog that belonged to them finding a hole to creep through the Rock suggested to them that there was a hollow Passage and he clear'd it by blowing up the Rock with Gunpowder till he had made a way through it broad enough for a Horse with a Pack and high enough for a Man to Ride through This is called the Hollow Rock Some other Places he levell'd and madeit an indifferent good Passage He was a very Ingenious Gentleman and doubtless had he lived might have propagated some advantagious Arts on that Island He was once endeavouring to make Salt Petre at the Angells but did not bring it to Perfection Whether the Earth there was not right I know not but probably there may be Salt-Petre-Earth in other Places especially about Passage-Fort where as I have been informed the Canes will not make good Sugar by Reason of the saltness of the Soil I liv'd with Mr. Whalley at 16 Mile-walk for almost six Months and then entred my self into the Service of one Captain Heming to manage his Plantation at St. Anns on the Northside of the Island and accordingly rode from St. Jago de la Vega toward St. Anns. This Road has but sorry Accommodations for Travellers The first Night I lay at a poor Hunters Hut at the foot of Mount Diabolo on the South side of it where for want of Cloaths to cover me in the Night I was very cold when the Land-wind sprang up This Mountain is part of the great Ridge that runs the length of the Island from East to West to the East 't is call'd the Blew Mountain which is higher than this The next Day crossing Mount Diabolo I got a hard Lodging at the Foot of it on the North side and the third day after arrived at Captain Heming's Plantation I was clearly out of my Element there and therefore as soon as Captain Heming came thither I disingaged my self from him and took my passage on Board a Sloop to Port-Royal with one Mr. Statham who used to Trade round the Island and touched there at that time From Port-Royal I sail'd with one Mr. Fishook who traded to the North-side of the Island and sometimes round it And by those coasting Voyages I came acquainted with all the Ports and Bays about Jamaica and with all their Manufactures as also with the Benefit of the Land and Sea-winds For our Business was to bring Goods to or carry them from Planters to Port-Royal and we were always entertained civilly by them both in their Houses and Plantations having Liberty to walk about and view them They gave us also Plantains
Yams Potatoes c. to carry aboard with us on which we fed commonly all our Voyage But after six or seven Months I left that employ also and shipt my self aboard one Capt. Hudsel who was bound to the Bay of Campeachy to load Logwood We sailed from Port-Royal about the beginning of August in 1675. in Company with Capt. Wren in a small Jamaica Bark and Capt. Johnson Commander of a Ketch belonging to New-England This Voyage is all the way before the Wind and therefore Ships commonly sail it in 12 or 14 Days Neither were we longer in our Passage for we had very fair Weather and touch'd no where till we came to Trist Island in the Bay of Campeachy which is the only place they go to In our way thither we first sailed by little Caimanes leaving it on our Larboard side and Key Monbrack which are two small Islands lying South of Cuba The next Land we saw was the Isle of Pines and steering still Westerly we made Cape Corienes And sailing on the South side of Cuba till we came to Cape Antonio which is the West end of it we stretched over towards the Peninsula of Jucatan and fell in with Cape Catoch which is in the Extream part of that Promontory towards the East The Land trends from this Cape one way South about 40 Leagues till you come to the Island Cozumel and from thence it runs S. W. down into the Bay of Honduras About 10 Leagues from Cape Catoch between it and Cozumel lies a small Island called by the Spaniards Key-Muger or Womens-Island because 't is reported that when they went first to settle in these parts they left their Wives there while they went over on the main to find some better Habitation Tho' now they have no settlement near it whatever they have had formerly About 3 Leagues from Cape Catoch and just against it is a small Island called Loggerhead-Key probably because it is frequently visited by a sort of Turtle so called near this Island we always find a great ripling which Seamen call the Rip-raps This Cape tho' it appears to be part of the Main yet is divided from it by a small Creek scarce wide enough for a Canoa to pass through though by it 't is made an Island This I have been credibly informed of by some who yet told me that they made a shift to pass it in a Canoa The Cape is very low Land by the Sea but somewhat higher as you go further from the shore It is all over-grown with Trees of divers sorts especially Logwood and therefore was formerly much frequented by the Jamaica Men who came thither in Sloops to load with it till all the Logwoodtrees near the Sea were cut down but now 't is wholly abandoned because the Carriage of it to the shore requires more labour than the cutting logging and chipping Besides they find better Wood now in the Bays of Campeachy and Honduras and have but little way to carry it not above 300 Paces when I was there whereas at Cape Catoch they were forc'd to carry it 1500 Paces before they left that Place From Cape Catoch we coasted along by the shore on the North side of Jucatan towards Cape Condecedo The Coast lies nearest West The distance between these two Capes is about 80 Leagues The shore lies pretty level without any visible Points or Bendings in the Land It is woody by the shore and full of sandy Bays and lofty Mangroves The first place of Note to the West of Cape Catoch is a small Hill by the Sea call'd the Mount and is distant from it about 14 Leagues It is very remarkable because there is no other High-Land on all this Coast. I was never ashore here but have met with some well acquainted with the Place who are all of opinion that this Mount was not natural but the Work of Men And indeed it is very probable this Place has been inhabited for here are a great many large Cisterns supposed to have been made for the receiving of Rain-water for there are no fresh Springs to be found here the Soil being all sandy and very salt So that as I have been credibly informed by an intelligent Person the Spaniards do fetch of it to make Salt-Petre He also told me that being once there in a Privateer and landing some Men on the Bay they found about 100 Packs of this Earth bound up in Palmeto-leaves and a Spanish Mulatto to guard it The Privateers at first sight of the Packs were in hopes there had been Maiz or Indian Corn in them which they then wanted but opening them they found nothing but Earth and examining the Mulatto for what use it was he said to make Powder and that he expected a Bark from Campeachy to fetch it away He further told me that tasting of it he found it very salt as all the Earth thereabouts was So that 't is not improbable that those Cisterns were made for the carrying on a Salt-Petre-Work But whatever was the design at first it is now wholly laid aside for there is no use made of them neither are there any Inhabitants near this Place Between the Mount and Cape Condecedo close by the Sea are many little Spots of Mangrove-trees which at a distance appear-like Islands but coming nearer when other lower Trees appear it shews like ragged and broken Ground but at last all the Land presents it self to your view very even The next Place of Note on this Coast is Rio de la Gartos almost in the Mid-way between Cape Catoch and Cape Condecedo This also is a very remarkable Place for here are 2 Groves of High Magnroves one on each side the River by which it may be known very well The River is but small yet deep enough for Canoas The Water is good and I know not any other Brook or fresh River on all the Coast from Cape Catoch till within 3 or 4 Leagues of Campeachy Town A little to the East of this River is a Fish-Range and a small Indian Hutt or two within the Woods where the Indian Fishers who are subject to the Spaniards lye in the Fishing-Seasons their Habitations and Familes being farther up in the Country Here are Poles to hang their Nets on and Barbecues to dry their Fish When they go off to Sea they fish with Hook and Line about 4 or 5 Leagues from the shore for Snappers and Gropers which I have already described in my Voyage round the VVorld Chap. 4. Pag. 91. Since the Privateers and Logwood-ships have sailed this way these Fisher-men are very shy having been often snap'd by them So that now when they are out at Sea if they see a Sail they presently sink their Canoas even with the edge of the Water for the Canoas when they are full of Water will sink no lower and they themselves lye just with their heads above Water till the Ship which they saw is pass'd by or comes Night I have seen them under
Savannah with some large Palmeto-Trees growing in it The North side of the VVest end is full of Coco-Plum-Bushes and some Grapes The Coco-Plum-Bush is about 8 or 9 Foot high spreading out into many Branches It s Rind black and smooth the Leaves oval and pretty large and of a dark Green The Fruit is about the bigness of a Horse-Plum but round some are black some white others redish The Skin of the Plum is very thin and smooth the inside white soft and woolly rather fit to suck than bite inclosing in the middle a large soft Stone This Fruit grows commonly in tho Sand near the Sea and I have tasted some that have been saltish but they are commonly sweet and pleasant enough and accounted very wholsom The Body of the Grape-Tree is about two or three Foot in Circumference growing 7 or 8 Foot high then sends forth many Branches whose Twigs are thick and gross the Leaves are shaped much like an Ivy Leaf but broader and more hard the Fruit is as big as an ordinary Grape growing in Bunches or Clusters among the Twigs all over the Tree it is black when ripe and the inside redish with a large hard Stone in the middle This Fruit is very pleasant and wholsom but of little substance the Stones being so large The Body and Limbs of the Tree are good Fewel making a clear strong fire therefore often used by the Privateers to harden the Steels of their Guns when faulty The Animals of this Island are Lizards Guanoes Snakes and Dear Beside the Common small Lizard there is another sort of a large kind called a Lyon-Lizard This Creature is shaped much like the other but almost as big as a Man's Arm and it has a large Comb on its head when it is assaulted it sets its Comb up an end but otherways it lyes down flat Here are two or three sorts of Snakes some very large as I have been told At the West end of the Island close by the Sea you may dig in the Sand 5 or 6 Foot deep and find good fresh Water There are commonly VVells ready made by Seamen to water their Ships but they soon fill up if not cleared and if you dig too deep your VVater will be salt This Island was seldom clear of Inhabitants when the English visited the Bay for Logwood for the biggest Ships did always ride here in 6 or 7 Fathom Water close by the Shore but smaller Vessels ran up 3 Leagues farther to One-Bush-Key of which in my former Chapter The second Mouth or Entrance into this Lagune is between Trist and Beef-Island and is about 3 Mile wide It is shoal without and only two Channels to come in The deepest Channel on a Spring Tide has 12 Foot Water It lyes near the middle of the Mouth hard Sand on the Barr the West Channel is about 10 Foot Water and lies pretty near Beef-Island You run in with the Sea-Breez and sound all the way taking your Sounding from Beef-Island shore The bottom is soft Oaz and it shoots gradually Being shot in within Beef-Island Point you will have three fathom then you may stand over towards Trist till you come near the Shore and there Anchor as you please There is good Anchoring any where within the Bar between Trist and Beef-Island but the Tide is much stronger than at Port-Royal This is the other Mouth or opening to the Salt Lagune before-mentioned This Lagune is call'd by the Spaniards Laguna Termina or the Lagune of Tides because they run very strong here Small Vessels as Barks Periagoes or Canoas may sail thro' this Lagune from one Mouth to the other or into such Creeks Rivers or smaller Lagunes as empty themselves into this of which here are many The first of Note on the East part of this Lagune as you come in at Port-Royal is the River Summasenta This River though but small yet it is big enough for Pereagoes to enter It disembogues on the South side near the middle of the Lagune There was formerly an Indian Village named Summasenta near the Mouth of the River and another large Indian Town called Chucquebul 7 or 8 Leagues up in the Country This latter was once taken by the Privateers by whom I have been informed that there were about 2000 Families of Indians in it and two or three Churches and as many Spanish Friers though no white Men beside The Land near this River yields plenty of Logwood From Summasenta River to One-Bush-Key is 4 or 5 Leagues the shore running West I have described One-Bush-Key and the Creek against it which as I said is very narrow and not above a Mile long before it opens into another wide Lake lying nearest N. and S. called the East Lagune It is about a League and half wide and 3 Leagues long encompassed with Mangrove-Trees At the S. E. corner of it there is another Creek about a Mile wide at the Mouth running 6 or 7 Mile into the Country on both sides of it grows plenty of Logwood therefore it was inhabited by Englishmen who lived in small Companies from three to ten in a Company and settled themselves at their best Convenience for Cutting At the Head of the Creek they made a path leading into a large Savanah full of black Cattle Horses and Deer which was often visited by them upon occasion At the North end and about the middle of the East Lagune there is another small Creek like that which comes out against One-Bush-Key but less and shallower which dischargeth it self into Laguna Termina against a small sandy Key called by the English Serles's Key from one Captain Serles who first carried his Vessel here and was afterwards killed in the Western Lagune by one of his company as they were cutting Logwood together This Captain Serles was one of Sir Henry Morgans Commanders at the Sacking of Panama who being sent out to cruise in a small Vessel in the South Seas happened to surprize at Toboca the Boatswain and most of the Crew belonging to the Trinity a Spanish Ship on Board which were the Friers and Nuns with all the old Gentlemen and Matrons of the Town to the number of 1500 Souls besides an immense Treasure in Silver and Gold as I was informed by Captain Peralta who then Commanded her as he did afterwards when she was taken by Captain Sharp all which he might have taken in the Ship had he pursued her On the West side of the East Lagune there is a small Skirt of Mangroves that separates it from another running Parallel with it called the East Lagune which is about the bigness of the former Towards the North end of this Laguue runs a small Creek coming out of the East Lagune deep enough for small Barks to pass through At the South end of this Lagune there is a Creek about a Mile wide at its Mouth and half a Mile from thence it divides into two Branches one called the East the other the West Branch both deep
of Cattle belonging to an Indian Village In the Woods on each side this River there are plenty of Guanoes Land-Turtle and abundance of Quams and Corresos with some Parrots and there is no Settlement nearer than the Beef Estantion nor any thing else remarkable in this River that I know A League West from Checapeque there is another small River called Dos Boccas 't is only fit for Canoas to enter It has a Bar at its Mouth and therefore is somewhat dangerous Yet the Privateers make light of it for they will govern a Canoa very ingeniously However Captain Rives and Captain Hewet two Privateers lost several Men here in coming out for there had been a North which had raised the Bar and in going out most of their Canoas were over-set and some Men drowned This River wlll not float a Canoa above a League within its Mouth and so far is salt but there you meet with a fine clear Stream of fresh Water about a League up in the Country and beyond this are fair Savannahs of long Grass fenced in with Ridges of as rich Land as any in the World The Mold such as is formerly described all plain and level even to the Hills of Chiapo There are no Indian Towns within 4 or 5 Leagues of the Sea but further off they are pretty thick lying within a League 2 or 3 one of another Halpo is the chiefest The Indians make use of no more Land than serves to maintain their Families in Maiz and to pay their Taxes And therefore between the Towns it lies uncultivated In all this Country they rear abundance of Poultry Viz. Turkies Ducks and Dunghil Fowls but some of them have Cacao-Walks The Cacao of these Parts is most of it sent to Villa de Mose and ship'd off there Some of it is sold to Carriers that travail with Mules coming hither commonly in Nov. or Dec. and staying till Febr. or March They lye a Fortnight at a time in a Village to dispose of their Goods which are commonly Hatchets Macheats Axes Hoes Knives Cizars Needles Thread Silk for sowing Womens Frocks small Looking-glasses Beads Silver or Copper Rings wash'd with Gold set with Glass instead of Stones small Pictures of Saints and such like Toys for the Indians And for the Spaniards Linnen and Woollen Cloaths Silks Stockings and old Hats new dress'd which are here very valuable and worn by those of the best Quality so that an old English Beaver thus ordered would be worth 20 Dollars so much is Trade wanted here in this Country When he has sold off his Goods he is generally paid in Cacao which he carries to La Vera Cruz. From Dos Boccas to the River Palmas is 4 Leagues low Land and sandy Bay between From Palmas to the Halover is 2 Leagues The Halover is a small Neck of Land parting the Sea from a large Lagune It is so call'd by the Privateers because they use to drag their Canoas in and out there From the Halover to St. Anns is 6 Leagues St. Anns is a Mouth that opens the Lagune before mentioned there is not above 6 or 7 Foot Water yet Barks often go in there to Careen From St. Anns to Tondelo is 5 Leagues The Coast still West the Land low and sandy Bay against the Sea a little within which are pretty high Sand-Banks cloathed with prickly Bushes such as I have already described at beef-Beef-Island Against the Sea near the West end within the Sand Bank the Land is lower again the Woods not very high and some spots of Savannahs with plenty of fat Bullocks In Hunting of which a Frenchman unhappily lost his Life For his Company being stragled from him to find Game he unluckily met a Drove of Cattle flying from them in the Woods which were so thick that there was no passing but in these very narrow Paths that the Cattle themselves had made so that not being able to get out of their way the foremost of the Drove thrust his Horns into his Back and carried him a 100 Paces into the Savannah where he fell down with his Guts trailing on the Ground The River Tondeloe is but narrow yet capable to receive Barks of 50 or 60 Tuns there is a Bar at the Entrance and the Channel crooked On the West side of the Bar there is a spit of Sand shoots out therefore to avoid it at your coming in you must keep the East side aboard but when once entred you may run up for two or three Leagues on the East side a quarter of a Mile within the Mouth you may lie secure but all this Coast and especially this River intolerably swarms with Musketoes that there is no sleeping for them About 4 or 5 Leagues from the Mouth this River is fordable and there the Road crosses it where two French Canoas that lay in this River intercepted the Caravan of Mules laden with Cacao that was returning to La Vera Cruz taking away as much as they could carry with them From Tondeloe River to the River of Guasickwalp is 8 Leagues more the Coast still West all along sandy Bay and sand-Hills as between St. Anns and Tondeloe only towards the West part the Bank is lower and the Trees higher This is one of the Principal Rivers of this Coast 't is not half the breadth of the Tobasco River but deeper It s Bar is less dangerous than any on this Coast having 14 foot Water on it and but little Sea Within the Bar there is much more and soft Oasie ground The Banks on both sides are low The East side is woody and the West side Savannah Here are some Cattle but since it has been frequented by Privateers the Spaniards have driven most of their Bullocks from hence farther into the Country This River hath its rise near the South Sea and is Navigable a great way into Land especially with Boats or small Barks The River Teguantapeque that falls into the South Seas hath its Origine near the Head of Guasickwalp and it is reported that the first Naval Stores for the Manila Ships were sent through the Country from the North to the South Seas by the conveniency of these two Rivers whose Heads are not above 10 or 12 Leagues asunder I heard this discoursed by the Privateers long before I visited the South Seas and they seemed sometimes minded to try their Fortunes this way supposing as many do still that the South Sea shore is nothing but Gold and Silver But how grosly they are mistaken I have satisfied the World already And for this part of the Country though it is rich in Land yet it has not the least appearance of any Mine neither is it thick inhabited with Spaniards And if I am not deceived the very Indians in the heart of the Country are scarce their Friends The Town of note on the S. Sea is Teguantapeque and on the N. Seas Keyhooca is the chiefest near this River Besides these two the Country is only inhabited by Indians
August By which means some Ships if they go any of these three ways now cautioned against spend more time in going from the Bite to Cape Verd than another Ship will do if it cross the Line in the right Places before mentioned in going to the Barbadoes Sometimes unexperienced Guinea Masters in their return from thence after they have cross'd the Line from N. to S. and are in a fair way to gain a speedy Passage will be so obstinate in their Opinions after they have run 26 28 or 30 d. West from Old Callabar with a fair Wind to steer away W. by N. or W. N. W. it being the directest Course they can steer for Barbadoes then they must of necessity keep within a degree of the Line while they are running 2 or 300 Leagues which may prove to be a long time in doing because of the uncertainty of the Winds near the Equator therefore they that cross it near the middle between both Promontories or near the American Coast when they are minded to fall away to the Northward steer away N. W. or N. W. by N. and so depress or raise a degree in running 28 Leagues at most therefore which is best they are but a short time near the Equator And besides in thus crossing it in the middle between both Promontories they seldom miss of a Wind for the Wind in these Seas has no other Passage but between these two Promontories What I have said already on this Head has been chiefly of the Atlantick and of that too mostly about the Line because it is the most difficult Place to pass in going to the Southward In other Seas as in the East Indian Sea and the Great South Sea there is no such difficulty to pass any way because there is Sea-room enough without coming into such Inconveniencies as we meet with in the Atlantick and as to the Winds between the Line and the Tropicks in the East Indian Sea and the South Sea they are in their Latitudes as I said before viz. in South Latitude at E. S. E. and in North Lat. at E. N. E. blowing constantly fresh Breezes especially in the South Seas even from within a degree or two of the Line on each side to the Tropick or to 30 degrees of Lat. And this I may truly say That neither the Atlantick nor the East Indian Seas have the true Trade-Winds so constant nor brisk at all times of the Year and in all Latitudes as they are here For being once got into the Trade I mean without the verge of the coasting Trade-Wind it blows a very brisk gale all over the Ocean Capt. Eaton experienced this in sailing from the Gallapagos Islands to the Ladrones In the latter end of the Year 1685. VVe had the like experience sailing from Cape Corientes to Guam the Year after as appears by my Journal of that Run in my Voyage round the World Chap. 10. Pag. 185. And as for the Wind to the Southward of the Line I had great Experience of it in my ramble there with Capt. Shearp and since that Capt. Davis in his return out of the South Sea had greater experience because he took his departure from the Gallapagos Islands also and steering W. S. W. from thence till he met the True Trade at E. S. E. he steered directly South clear from the Line till he got to the Southward of the Tropick of Capricorn and so quite without the Trade In the East Indian Sea between the Lat. of 30 d. and 4 degrees South of the Equator the true Breez is at E. S. E. or S. E. by E. yet not so constant nor brisk as in the South Seas besides that part of it which lyes to the Northward of the Line has not such a constant steady Breez but is more subject to Calms and near the shoar to shifting Winds according to the Seasons of the Year CHAP. II. Of the constant coasting Trade-Winds A Parallel of the South Part of Africa and Peru. The Trade-Winds blow with an acute Angle on any Coast. The Winds about Angola and in the South Seas alike as also at Mexico and Guinea The Winds shift not in some Places Sand blown from the Shoar about Cape Blanco in Guinea An Account of the Trade-Winds from thence to Cape Lopos THE Trade-Winds which blow on any Coast are either Constant or Shifting The Coasts that are subject to constant Trade-Winds are the South Coast of Africa and Peru and part of the Coast of Mexico and part of Guinea The South part of Africa and Peru are in one Lat. both Coasts trending North and South both on the West side of their Continents both in South Lat. and tho' they do not lye exactly parallel by Reason of some Capes or Bendings in the Land yet are the Winds much alike on both Coasts all the Year long On the Coast of Angola the Winds are between the S. W. and S. And on the Coast of Peru we reckon them between the S. S. W. and S. S. E. But this the Reader must take notice of That the Trade-Winds that blow on any Coast except the North Coast of Africa whether they are constant and blow all the Year or whether they are shifting Winds do never blow right in on the Shoar nor right along Shoar but go slanting making an accute Angle of about 22 degrees Therefore as the Lands trends more Easterly or Westerly from the North or South on these Coasts so the Winds do alter accordingly as for example Where the Land lies N. and S. the Wind would be at S. S. W. but where the Land lies S. S. W. the Trade would be at S. W. But if the Land lyes S. S. E. then the Wind would be at South This is supposed of Coasts lying on the West side of any Continent and on the South side of the Equator as the two Coasts of Africa and Peru are but the North part of Africa has the Trade blowing off from the shoar two or three Points These Southerly Winds do blow constantly all the Year long on both the Coasts of Peru and Africa they are brisk and blow farther off from the Coasts than any shifting Winds On the Coast of Peru these Winds blow 140 or 150 Leagues off Shore before you can perceive them to alter But then as you run farther off so the Wind will come about more Easterly and at about 200 Leagues distance it settles at E. S. E. which is the true Trade Between Angola and Brazil the Winds are much as they are in the South Seas on the West side of the Peruvian Coast only near the Line within 4 degrees of it in South Lat. the Wind holds in the S. S. W. or S. W. for 28 or 30 d. of Longitude and so it may in the same Lat. in the South Seas for ought I know for it was at South as far as any of us were which was near 200 Leagues As the Coasts of Peru and Angola have their constant
only mention two Rivers in the South Sea that I have taken notice of in my Voyage round the World viz. the Gulph of St. Michael and the River of Guiaquill In the Gulph of St. Michael there are many large Rivers which all disembogue into a Lagune of 2 or 3 Leagues wide This Lagune is barricadoed from the Sea with some small low Mangrovy Islands and between them are Creeks and Channels through which the Tides make their daily passes into the Lagune and from thence into the Rivers and so back again many times over-flowing the said Islands and leaving the tops of the lower Trees above Water The Rivers that run into this Lagune are pretty narrow and bounded on each side with steep Banks as high as the Floods use to rise and but very little higher For at High-water and on a Spring-tide the Water is almost or altogether even with the Land The Lagune at the Mouth of the Rivers is but small neither is there any other way for the Water to force it self into beside the Lagune and Rivers and therefore the Tides do rise and fall here 18 or 20 Foot The River of Guiaquil in this respect is much the same with the Gulph of St. Michael but the Lagunes near it are larger Here the Tide rises and falls 16 Foot perpendicular I don't know of any other such Places in all the South Seas yet there are other large Rivers on the Coast between these Places but none so remarkable for high Tides The great Tides in the Gulph of St. Michael have doubtless been the occasion of that Opinion which some hold that there 's a Subterreanean Communication between the North and the South Seas and that the Isthmus of Darien is like an Arched Bridge under which the Tides make their constant Courses as duly as they do under London-Bridge And more to confirm this Opinion some have said that there are continual and strange Noises made by those Subterranean Fluxes and Refluxes and that they are heard by the Inhabitants of the Isthmus and also that Ships sailing in the Bay of Panama are toss'd to and fro at a prodigious rate Sometimes say they they are by the boiling of the Water dash'd against Islands and in a moment left dry there or staved in pieces at othertimes they are drawen or suck'd up as 't were in a Whirl-Pool and ready to be carried under Ground into the North Seas with all Sails standing They have said also that when the Tide flows especially on a Spring the Islands in the Bay are all over-flown nay and even the Country for a great way together and then nothing is to be seen but the tops of Trees But if this were so 't is much that I and those that I was with should not have heard or seen something of it For I pass'd the Isthmus twice and was 23 days in the last Trip that I made over it but yet did I never hear of any Noises under Ground there I sailed also in the South Seas taking in both times that I was there near 3 Years several Months of it I was in the Bay of Panama And after I went away those of our Crew that remained there spent a great deal more time in that Bay Yet did they never meet with such strange Whirl-Pooles but found as pleasant sailing there as any where in the World Neither did I ever hear any of the Spaniards or Indians make mention of any such thing in all my Converse with them which certainly they would have done if they had ever experienced it had it been only to terrifie us and scare us away from their Coasts I remember indeed our Country-man Mr. Gage gives some hints of these strange Currents in this Bay in his Book called A New Survey of the West Indies from P. 538 to 440. but I am afraid he took most of it upon trust from others or else he was Sea-sick all that little Voyage for he gives a very imperfect and lame Account of that Business as if he understood not what he wrote I should dislike his whole Book for that one stories sake if I did not know that he has written candidly upon other Matters but I think I have said enough of this To proceed then As to the great Tides which are reported to be in these Seas I have given instances of them but they are not so great as is reported neither do they ebb and flow so much any where as in the Gulph of St. Michael only where indeed they flow over those small low Mangrove Islands at the Mouth of the Lagune and leave only the tops of the low Trees above Water for those Islands are very low neither do they afford any high Trees But however the Islands at the Mouth of the Gulph before you come to these low ones are near over-flown yet are they very small and low in comparison with other Islands in the Bay of Panama And indeed should the Islands in that Bay be over-flown the City of Panama would soon be many Yards under Water But so far is this from being true that the Pearl Islands which are very flat and low are yet never over-flown For there the Tide riseth and falls not above 10 or 11 Foot on a Spring at the Southermost end of them which is almost opposite to the Gulph of St. Michael and not above 12 or 14 Leagues distant from it And yet there it flows more than it does at or near Panama or any other Place in the Bay except just at the Mouths of Rivers by 2 or 3 Foot Therefore all that report is wholly grounless But to go on I have also observed that Islands lying far off at Sea have seldom such high Tides as those that are near the Main or as any Places on the Main it self as for example at the Gallapagos Islands which lye about 100 Leagues from the Main The Tides don't rise and fall above a Foot and half or two Foot which is less than they do on the Coast of the Main For on most Places of the Main it rises and falls 2 or 3 Foot more or less according as the Coast is more or less exposed to Indraughts or Rivers Guam one of the Ladrone Islands is also another instance of this There the Tide riseth not above 2 or 3 Foot at most In the Bay of Panama the Tides do keep a more constant and regular Course than on other Places on the Coasts of Peru and Mexico it was for that reason I called them Currents in some Places mentioned in my Voyage round the VVorld as particularly near Guatulca on the Mexican Continent in Chap. IX Page 238. but it was truly a Tide which there I called a Current and it sets to the Eastward as the ebb doth to the West The Tides there do rise and fall about 5 Foot as they do on most parts of that Coast. At Ria Leja they rise and fall about 8 or 9 Foot At Amapala they also rise
of the Trade Winds I shall instance Barbadoes for one and all the Carribbes may as well be included The greater Islands as Hispaniola Jamaica and Cuba have only some particular Capes or Head-Lands exposed to Currents as Cape Tiberoon on Hispaniola Point Pedro and the N. E. Point of Jamaica Cape de Cruz Cape Corientes and Cape Antonios on Cuba But of all the Islands in the West Indies there are none more sensible of Currents than Corrisao Aruba nor any Capes on the Continent so remarkable for Currents as Cape Roman which shoots out against the Sea betweenthose two Places as also Cape Coquibaco and Cape La Vela to Leeward all three on the same Head-Land which shoots forth far without any other Land on the Coast. There is no such Head-Land till you come to Cape Gratia de Dios which is about 260 Leagues to Leeward Indeed to the East-ward there is Land that trends out almost so far within 150 Leagues of it Viz. The Island Trinidado and the Land against it and there also are great Currents But I shall first speak of the Currents between Cape La Vela and Cape Gratia de Dios. The Currents at Cape La Vela do seldom shift therefore Ships that ply to Wind-ward to get about it do not ply near the shore but stand off to Sea till they come in sight of Hispaniola and then back again till within about 6 or 8 Leagues of the Cape but not nearer But in the Westerly Wind-Season which is from October till March Ships often meet Westerly Winds that last two or three Days with which they may run to the Eastward without any trouble Between Cape La Vela and Cape Gratia de Dios the Currents are much different from what they are against the Cape and this seems to proceed from the make of the Land for the shore between the two Capes runs into the Southward making a great Bay And this Bay affords more varieties of Winds and Currents than any one part of the West Indies besides Here in the Westerly Wind-Season the Current sets to the Westwards constantly but sometimes stronger than at other times At about four Leagues off shore you find it and so it continues till you are 20 25 or 30 Leagues off Beyond that you meet with an Easterly Wind and if there is any Current it runs also to the Westward therefore Ships that are bound to the Westward must run off to Sea Thirty or Forty Leagues to get a Wind or else if they have but a little way to go they must ply close under the shore that so they may Anchor when they please Otherwise they will be carried away to the Eastward Fourteen or Sixteen Leagues in a Nights time and that too though they have a faint Easterly Wind as frequently they meet with though 't is the Westerly Wind-Season To the East of Cape Roman as high as the Island Trinidado you meet only a soaking faint Current setting to the Westward except only near such places as shoot out farthest into the Sea as about the Testegos which are small Islands lying to Wind-ward of the Island Margarita Between those Islands and the Main you meet with a pretty strong Current therefore it is hard getting to the East-ward there but on all the Coast between Cape Roman and the Head-Land shooting out towards the Testegos you may ply up with the Land and Sea-Breezes From thence till you come as high as the East-end of Trinidado Isle you meet with an extraordinary strong Current From the east-East-end of Trinidado till you come to Surinam though you meet an Easterly Current yet 't is possible to beat it up with the Land and Sea-Breezes From Surianam also to Cape Blanco you may turn it up though to be sure you 'l meet with Currents setting to the West except near the Full of the Moon and then on all the Coasts before-mentioned we commonly meet with Currents setting to the Eastward at least then it slackens and stands still if it doth not run to the East-ward But when you are come as far to the East as Cape Blanco on the North of Brazil you meet with a Current always against you and so from thence Southerly as far as Cape St. Augustine There is no dealing with this Promontory for it shoots out so far into the Sea and thereby lies so exposed to the Sea-Breezes and the Currents that soak down between Africa and Brazil that it is quite contrary to reason to think there should not always be a strong Current setting to the N. W. I have before hinted That in all places where the Trade blows we find a Current setting with the Wind which is not so perceptible in the wide Sea as nearer the Shores yet even there the force of the Winds constantly blowing one way may and probably does move the surface of the Water along with it From hence it may be inferred that the Southerly Winds on the Coast of Africa and the true Trade between it and Brazil gently move the surface of the Sea with it and the Trade being mostly at S. E. drives the Sea to the Northward slanting in on the Coast of Brazil which being there stop'd by the Land bends its Course Northerly towards Cape St. Augustine And after it has doubled that great Promontory it falls away more gently towards the Coast of Suranam and from thence towards the West Indies For after it has doubled that Promontory it has more room to spread it self and thereby becomes weaker in motion being agitated by the Trade-winds which to the North of the Line we find commonly blowing at E. N. E. and this still bears the Sea slanting down along the Coast to the Westward And probably 't is for this Reason that we find the Current setting strongest near those Head-Lands before-mentioned Whereas at Barbadoes and other of the Caribee Islands we find only a soaking Current such as seems to arise only from the constancy of the Trade-winds blowing there and not from an original Current from the South part of the Atlantick which as I said before doubles about Cape St. Augustine and so Coasts along pretty nigh the shore The Currents about the Island Trinidado and at Currisao and Aruba as also between them and Cape Roman seem to indicate as much The Currents also between Cape Roman and Cape La Vela indicate the same From Cape La Vela the Currents set still to the Westward towards Cape Gratia de Dios but in a direct Line and not borrowing or slanting in towards the shore For as I said before it is a large Bay and Currents commonly set from one Head-Land to another so that Bays have seldom any or if they have they are only Counter Currents And these Counter Currents too do set from one Point to another without interfering with the little Bays between And 't is also very probable that these Counter Currents such as we meet with in this Bay in their Seasons after they have
vocal Musick here by what I could learn except only a row of a kind of Bells without clappers 16 in number and their weight increasing gradually from about 3 to 10 pound weight These were set in a row on a Table on the Generals House where for 7 or 8 days together before the Circumcision day they were struck each with a little stick for the biggest part of the day making a great noise and they ceased that morning So these dancing Women sung themselves and danced to their own Musick After this the General 's Women and the Sultans Sons and his Nieces danced Two of the Sultans Nieces were about 18 or 19 years old the other two were 3 or 4 years younger These young Ladies were very richly drest with loose Garments of Silk and small Coronets on their Heads They were much fairer than any Women that I did ever see there and very well featured and their Noses tho but small yet higher than the other Womens and very well proportioned When the Ladies had very well diverted themselves and the company with dancing the General caused us to fire some Sky-rockets that were made by his and Captain Swan's order purposely for this nights solemnity and after that the Sultan and his retinue went away with a few attendants and we all broke up and thus ended this days solemnity but the Boys being sore with their Amputation went straddling for a fortnight after They are not as I said before very curious or strict in observing any days or times of particular Devotions except it be the Ramdam time as we call it The Ramdam time was then in August as I take it for it was shortly after our arrival here In this time they fast all day and about 7 a clock in the evening they spend near an hour in Prayer Towards the latter end of their Prayer they loudly invoke their Prophet for about a quarter of an hour both old and young bawling out very strangely as if they intended to fright him out of his sleepiness or neglect of them After their Prayer is ended they spend sometime in feasting before they take their repose Thus they do every day for a whole month at least for sometimes 't is 2 or 3 days longer before the RAmdam ends for it begins at the new Moon and lasts till they see the next new Moon which sometimes in thick hazy Weather is not till 3 or 4 days after the change as it happen'd while I was at Achin where they continued the Ramdam till the new Moons appearance The next day after they have seen the new Moon the Guns are all discharged about noon and then the time ends A main part of their Religion consists in washing often to keep themselves from being desiled or after they are defiled to cleanse themselves again They also take great care to keep themselves from being polluted by tasting or touching any thing that is accounted unclean therefore Swines flesh is very abominable to them nay any one that hath either tasted of Swines flesh or touched those Creatures is not permitted to come into their Houses in many days after and there is nothing will scare them more than a Swine Yet there are wild Hogs in the Islands and those so plentiful that they will come in Troops out of the Woods in the night into the very City and come under their Houses to romage up and down the filth that they find there The Natives therefore would even desire us to lye in wait for the Hogs to destroy them which we did frequently by shooting them and carrying them presently on board but were prohibited their Houses afterwards And now I am on this subject I cannot omit a story concerning the General He once desired to have a pair of Shoes made after the English fashion tho he did very seldom wear any So one of our men made him a pair which the General liked very well Afterwards some body told him that the Thread wherewith the Shoes were sowed were pointed with Hogs bristles This put him into a great passion so he sent the Shoes to the man that made them and sent him withal more Leather to make another pair with Threads pointed with some other hair which was immediately done and then he was well pleased CHAP. XIII Their coasting along the Isle of Mindanao from a Bay on the East side to another at the S. E. end Tornadoes and boisterous Weather The S. E. Coast and its Savannah and plenty of Deer They coast along the South side to the River of Mindanao City and anchor there The Sultans Brother and Son come aboard them and invite them to settle there Of the Feasibleness and probable Advantage of such a Settlement from the Neighbouring Gold and Spice Islands Of the best way to Mindanao by the South Sea and Terra Australis and of an accidental Discovery there by Captain Davis and a probability of a greater The capacity they were in to settle here The Mindanaians measure their Ship Captain Swan 's Present to the Sultan his Reception of it and Audience given to Captain Swan with Raja Laut the Sultans Brother's Entertainment of him The Contents of 2 English Letters shewn them by the Sultan of Mindanao Of the Commodities and the Punishment there The Generals Caution how to demean themselves at his Persuasion they lay up their Ships in the River The Mindanaians Caresses The great Rains and Floods at the City The Mindanaians have Chinese Accomptants How their Women dance A Story of one John Thacker Their Bark eaten up and their Ship indanger'd by the Worm Of the Worms here and elsewhere Of Captain Swan Raja Laut the General 's Deceitfulness Hunting wild Kine The Prodigality of some of the English Captain Swan treats with a young Indian of a Spice-Island A Hunting Voyage with the General His punishing a Servant of his Of his Wives and Women A sort of strong Rice Drink The Generals foul Dealing and Exactions Captain Swan s Uneasiness and indiscreet Management His Men mutiny Of a Snake twisting about one of their Necks The main part of the Crew go away with the Ship leaving Captain Swan and some of his Men several others poysoned there HAving in the two last Chapters given some account of the Natural Civil and Religious State of Mindanao I shall now go on with the prosecution of our affairs during our stay there 'T was in a Bay on the N. East side of the Island that we came to an anchor as hath been said We lay in this Bay but one night and part of the next day Yet there we got speech with some of the Natives who by signs made us understand that the City Mindanao was on the West side of the Island We endeavoured to perswade one of them to go with us to be our Pilot but he would not Therefore in the afternoon we loosed from hence steering again to the South East having the Wind at S. W. When we came to
the S. E. end of the Island Mindanao we saw two small Islands about 3 leagues distant from it We might have passed between them and the main Island as we learnt since but not knowing them nor what dangers we might encounter there we chose rather to sail to the Eastward of them But meeting very strong Westerly Winds we got nothing forward in many days In this time we first saw the Islands Meangis which are about 16 leagues distant from the Mindanao bearing S. E. I shall have occasion to speak more of them hereafter The 4th day of July we got into a deep Bay 4 leagues N. W. from the two small Islands before mentioned But the night before in a violent Tornado our Bark being unable to beat any longer bore away which put us in some pain for fear she was overset as we had like to have been our selves We anchored on the South West side of the Bay in 15 fathom Water about a Cables length from the shore Here we were forced to shelter our selves from the violence of the Weather which was so boisterous with Rains and Tornadoes and a strong Westerly Wind that we were very glad to find this place to anchor in being the only shelter on this side from the West Winds This Bay is not above two mile wide at the mouth but farther in it is 3 leagues wide and 7 leagues deep running in N. N. W. There is a good depth of Water about 4 or 5 leagues in but rocky foul ground for above 2 leagues in from the mouth on both sides of the Bay except only in that place where we lay About 3 leagues in from the mouth on the Eastern side there are fair sandy Bays and very good anchoring in 4 5 and 6 fathom The Land on the East side is high mountainous and woody yet very well watered with small Brooks and there is one River large enough for Canoas to enter On the West side of the Bay the Land is of a mean heighth with a large Savannah bordering on the Sea and stretching from the mouth of the Bay a great way to the Westward This Savannah abounds with long Grass and it is plentifully stock'd with Deer The adjacent Woods are a covert for them in the heat of the day but mornings and evenings they feed in the open Plains as thick as in our Parks in England I never saw any where such plenty of wild Deer tho I have met with them in several parts of America both in the North and South Seas The Deer live here pretty peaceably and unmolested for there are no Inhabitants on that side of the Bay We visited this Savannah every morning and killed as many Deer as we pleased sometimes 16 or 18 in a day and we did eat nothing but Venison all the time we staid here We saw a great many Plantations by the sides of the Mountains on the East side of the Bay and we went to one of them in hopes to learn of the Inhabitants whereabouts the City was that we might not over-sail it in the night but they fled from us We lay here till the 12th day before the Winds abated of their fury and then we sailed from hence directing our course to the Westward In the morning we had a Land Wind at North. At 11 a clock the Sea breeze came at West just in our Teeth but it being fair weather we kept on our way turning and taking the advantage of the Land breezes by night and the Sea breezes by day Being now past the S. E. part of the Island we coasted down on the South side and we saw abundance of Canoas a fishing and now and then a small Village Neither were these Inhabitants afraid of us as the former but came aboard yet we could not understand them nor they us but by signs and when we mentioned the word Mindanao they would point towards it The 18th day of July we arrived before the River of Mindanao the mouth of which lies in lat 6 d. 22 m. No. and is laid in 231 d. 12 m. Longitude West from the Lizard in England We anchored right against the River in 15 fathom water clear hard Sand about 2 miles from the shore and 3 or 4 miles from a small Island that lay without us to the Southward We fired 7 or 9 Guns I remember not well which and were answered again with 3 from the shore for which we gave one again Immediately after our coming to an anchor Raja Laut and one of the Sultans Sons came off in a Canoa being rowed with 10 Oars and demanded in Spanish what we were and from whence we came Mr. Smith he who was taken Prisoner at Leon in Mexico answered in the same Language that we were English and that we had been a great while out of England They told us that we were welcom and asked us a great many questions about England especially concerning our East India Merchants and whether we were sent by them to settle a Factory here Mr. Smith told them that we came hither only to buy provision They seemed a little discontented when they understood that we were not come to settle among them for they had heard of our arrival on the East side of the Island a great while before and entertained hopes that we were sent purposely out of England hither to settle a trade with them which it should seem they are very desirous of For Captain Goodlud had been here not long before to treat with them about it and when he went away told them as they said that in a short time they might expect an Ambassadour from England to make a full bargain with them Indeed upon mature thoughts I should think we could not have done better than to have complied with the desire they seemed to have of our settling here and to have taken up our quarters among them For as thereby we might better have consulted our own profit and satisfaction than by the other loose roving way of life so it might probably have proved of publick benefit to our Nation and been a means of introducing an English Settlement and Trade not only here but through several of the Spice-Islands which lye in its neighbourhood For the Islands Meangis which I mentioned in the beginning of this Chapter lye within 20 leagues of Mindanao These are 3 small Islands that abound with Gold and Cloves if I may credit my Author Prince Jeoly who was born on one of them and was at this time a Slave in the City of Mindanao He might have been purchased by us of his Master for a small matter as he was afterwards by Mr. Moody who came hither to Trade and laded a Ship with Clove Bark and by transporting him home to his own Country we might have gotten a Trade there But of Prince Jeoly I shall speak more hereafter These Islands are as yet probably unknown to the Dutch who as I said before indeavour to ingross all
with small Brooks of fresh Water that run flush into the Sea for 10 months in the year The latter end of March they begin to dry away and in April you shall have none in the Brooks but what is lodged in deep holes but you may dig Wells in some places In May when the Rain comes the Land is again replenished with water and the Brooks run out into the Sea These Islands lye very commodiously in the way to and from Japan China Manila Tunquin Cochinchina and in general all this most Easterly Coast of the Indian Continent whether you go through the Streights of Malacca or the Streights of Sunda between Sumatra and Java and one of them you must pass in the common way from Europe or other parts of the East Indies unless you mean to fetch a great compass round most of the East India Islands as we did Any Ship in distress may be refreshed and recruited here very conveniently and besides ordinary accommodations be furnished with Masts Yards Pitch and Tar. It might also be a convenient place to usher in a Commerce with the Neighbouring Country of Cochinchina and Forts might be built to secure a Factory particularly at the Harbour which is capable of being well fortified This place therefore being upon all these Accounts so valuable and withal so little known I have here inserted a draft of it which I took during our stay there The Inhabitants of this Island are by Nation Cochinchinese as they told us for one of them spake good Malayan which Language we learnt a smattering of and some of us so as to speak it pretty well while we lay at Mindanao and this is the common Tongue of Trade and Commerce though it be not in several of them the Native Language in most of the East India Islands being the Lingua Franca as it were of these parts I believe 't is the vulgar Tongue at Malacca Sumatra Java and Borneo but at Celebes the Philippine Islands and the Spice Islands it seems borrowed for the carrying of Trade The Inhabitants of Pulo Condore are but a small people in stature well enough shaped and of a darker colour than the Mindanayans They are pretty long visaged their Hair is black and streight their Eyes are but small and black their Noses of a mean bigness and pretty high their Lips thin their Teeth white and little Mouths They are very civil people but extraordinary poor Their chiefest imployment is to draw the juice of those Trees that I have described to make Tar. They preserve it in wooden Troughs and when they have their Cargo they transport it to Cochinchina their Mother Country Some others of them imploy themselves to catch Turtle and boil up their Fat to Oyl which they also transport home These people have great large Nets with wide mashes to catch the Turtle The Jamaica Turtlers have such and I did never see the like Nets but at Jamaica and here They are so free of their Women that they would bring them aboard and offer them to us and many of our men hired them for a small matter This is a custom used by several Nations in the East Indies as at Pegu Siam Cochinchina and Cambodia as I have been told It is used at Tunquin also to my knowledge for I did afterward make a Voyage thither and most of our Men had Women aboard all the time of our abode there In Africa also on the Coast of Guinea our Merchants Factors and Seamen that reside there have their black Misses It is accounted a piece of policy to do it for the chief Factors and Captains of Ships have the great Mens Daughters offered them the Mandarins or Noblemens at Tunquin and even the Kings Wives in Guinea and by this sort of Alliance the Country people are ingaged to a greater friendship And if there should arise any difference about Trade or any thing else which might provoke the Natives to seek some treacherous revenge to which all these Heathen Nations are very prone then these Dalilahs would certainly declare it to their white friends and so hinder their Country-mens designs These People are Idolaters but their manner of Worship I know not There are a few scattering Houses and Plantations on the great Island and a small Village on the South side of it where there is a little Idol Temple and an Image of an Elephant about 5 foot high and in bigness proportionable placed on one side of the Temple and a Horse not so big placed on the other side of it both standing with their Heads towards the South The Temple it self was low and ordinary built of Wood and thatched like one of their Houses which are but very meanly The Images of the Horse and the Elephant were the most general Idols that I observ'd in the Temples of Tunquin when I travell'd there There were other Images also of Beasts Birds and Fish I do not remember I saw any humane shape there nor any such monstrous Representations as I have seen among the Chinese Where-ever the Chinese Seamen or Merchants come and they are very numerous all over these Seas they have always hideous Idols on board their Jonks or Ships with Altars and Images burning before them These Idols they bring ashore with them and beside those they have in common every Man hath one in his own House Upon some particular solemn days I have seen their Bonzies or Priests bring whole armfuls of painted Papers and burn them with a great deal of Ceremony being very careful to let no piece escape them The same day they kill'd a Goat which had been purposely fatting a month before this they offer or present before their Idol and then dress it and feast themselves with it I have seen them do this in Tunquin where I have at the same time been invited to their Feasts and at Bancouli in the Isle of Sumatra they sent a Shoulder of the Sacrific'd Goat to the English who eat of it and ask'd me to do so too but I refused When I was at Maderas or Fort St. George I took notice of a great Ceremony used for several nights successively by the Idolaters inhabiting the Suburbs Both men and women these very well clad in a great multitude went in solemn Procession with lighted Torches carrying their Idols about with them I knew not the meaning of it I observ'd some went purposely carrying Oyl to sprinkle into the Lamps to make them burn the brighter They began their round about 11 a clock at night and having paced it gravely about the streets till 2 or 3 a clock in the morning their Idols were carry'd with much Ceremony into the Temple by the chief of the Procession and some of the Women I saw enter the Temple particularly Their Idols were different from those of Tunquin Cambodia c. being in humane Shape I have said already that we arrived at these Islands the 14th day of March 1687. The next day we searched about
us at last the Captain ordered the Drum to be beaten which was done of a sudden with much vigor purposely to scare the poor Creatures They hearing the noise ran away as fast as they could drive and when they ran away in haste they would cry Gurry Gurry speaking deep in the Throat Those Inhabitants also that live on the Main would always run away from us yet we took several of them For as I have already observed they had such bad Eyes that they could not see us till we came close to them We did always give them victuals and let them go again but the Islanders after our first time of being among them did not stir for us When we had been here about a week we hal'd our Ship into a small sandy Cove at a Spring-tide as far as she would sloat and at low Water she was left dry and the sand dry without us near half a mile for the Sea riseth and falleth here about 5 fathom The Flood runs North by East and the Ebb South by West All the Neep-tides we lay wholly a ground for the Sea did not come near us by about a hundred yards We had therefore time enough to clean our Ships bottom which we did very well Most of our Men lay ashore in a Tent where our Sails were mending and our Strikers brought home Turtle and Manatee every day which was our constant food While we lay here I did endeavour to perswade our men to go to some English Factory but was threatened to be turned ashore and left here for it This made me desist and patiently wait for some more convenient place and opportunity to leave them than here Which I did hope I should accomplish in a short time because they did intend when they went from hence to bear down towards Cape Comorin In their way thither they design'd also to visit the Island Cocos which lyeth in Lat. 12 d. 12 m. North by our Drafts hoping there to find of that Fruit the Island having it name from thence CHAP. XVII Leaving New-Holland they pass by the Island Cocos and touch at another Woody Island near it A Land Animal like large Craw-fish Coco-Nuts floating in the Sea The Island Triste bearing Coco's yet over-flown every Spring-tide They anchor at a small Island near that of Nassaw Hog Island and others A Proe taken belonging to Achin Nicobar Island and the rest called by that Name Ambergrease good and bad The manners of the Inhabitants of these Islands They anchor at Nicobar Isle It s Situation Soil and pleasant Mixture of its Bays Trees c. The Melory tree and Fruit used for bread The Natives of Nicobar Island their Form Habit Language Habitations no form of Religion or Government Their Food and Canoas They clean the Ship The Author projects and gets leave to stay ashore here and with him two Englishmen more the Portuguese and 4 Malayans of Achin Their first Rencounters with the Natives Of the common Traditions concerning Cannibals or Man-Eaters Their Entertainment ashore They buy a Canoa to transport them over to Achin but overset her at first going cut Having recruited and improved her they set out again for the East side of the Island They have a War with the Islanders but Peace being re-established they lay in stores and make Preparations for their Voyage MArch the 12th 1688. we sailed from New Holland with the Wind at N. N. W. and fair weather We directed our course to the Northward intending as I said to touch at the Island Cocos but we met with the Winds at N. W. W. N. W. and N N. W. for several days which obliged us to keep a more Easterly course than was convenient to find that Island We had soon after our setting out very bad weather with much Thunder and Lightning Rain and high blustring Winds It was the 26th day of March before we were in the lat of the Island Cocos which is in 12 d. 12 m. and then by judgment we were 40 or 50 leagues to the East of it and the Wind was now at S. W. Therefore we did rather chuse to bear away towards some Islands on the West side of Sumatra than to beat against the Wind for the Island Cocos I was very glad of this being in hopes to make my escape from them to Sumatra or some other place We met nothing of remark in this Voyage beside the catching two great Sharks till the 28th day Then we fell in with a small woody Island in Lat. 10 d. 30 m. Its Longitude from New Holland from whence we came was by my account 12 d. 6 m. West It was deep water about the Island and therefore no anchoring but we sent 2 Canoas ashore one of them with the Carpenters to cut a Tree to make another Pump the other Canoa went to search for fresh water and found a fine small Brook near the S. W. point of the Island but there the Sea fell in on the ashore so high that they could not get it off At noon both our Canoas returned aboard and the Carpenters brought aboard a good Tree which they afterwards made a Pump with such a one as they made at Mindanao The other Canoa brought aboard as many Boobies and Men of War Birds as sufficed all the Ships Company when they were boiled They got also a sort of Land Animal somewhat resembling a large Craw-fish without its great Claws These creatures lived in holes in the dry sandy ground like Rabbits Sir Francis Drake in his Voyage round the world makes mention of such that he found at Ternate or some other of the Spice Islands or near them They were very good sweet Meat and so large that 2 of them were more than a Man could eat being almost as thick as ones Leg. Their Shells were of a dark brown but red when boiled This Island is of a good heighth with steep Cliffs against the S. and S. W. and a sandy Bay on the North side but very deep water steep to the shore The Mold is blackish the Soil fat producing large Trees of divers sorts About one a clock in the Afternoon we made sail from this Island with the wind at S. W. and we steered N. W. Afterwards the winds came about at N. W. and continued between the W. N. W. and the N. N. W. several days I observed that the winds blew for the most part out of the West or N. W. and then we had always rainy weather with Tornadoes and much Thunder and Lightning but when the wind came any way to the Southward it blew but faint and brought fair weather We met nothing of remark till the 7th day of April and then being in Lat. 7 d. S. we saw thâ—… Land of Sumatra at a great distance bearing North. The 8th day we saw the East end of the Island Sumatra very plainly we being then in Lat. 6 d. S. The 10th day being in Lat. 5 d. 11 m. and about 7
Pines lyes on the South side towards the West end of Cuba and is distant from it 3 or 4 Leagues Cape Corientes on Cuba is five or six Leagues to the Westward of the Isle of Pines Between Pines and Cuba are many small woody Islands scattered here and there with Channels for Ships to pass between and by report there is good anchoring near any of them Jamaica Sloops do sometimes pass through between Cuba and Pines when they are bound to Wind-ward because there the Sea is always smooth They are also certain to meet good Land-winds besides they can Anchor when they please and thereby take the benefit of the Tides and when they are got past the East end of Pines they may either stand out to Sea again or if they are acquainted among the small Islands to the East of it which are called the South Keys of Cuba they may range amongst them to the Eastward still taking the greater benefit of Land-winds and Anchoring Besides if Provision is scarce they will meet Jamaica Turtlers or else may get Turtle themselves at which many of them are expert There is also plenty of Fish of many sorts but if they are not provided with Hooks Lines or Harpoons or any other Fishing-Craft nor meet with any Turtlers Cuba will afford them Sustenance of Hog or Beef The great Inconvenience of going in the inside of Pines between it and Cuba proceeds from a Spanish Garrison of about 40 Soldiers at Cape Corientes who have a large Periago well fitted with Oars and Sails and are ready to launch out and seize any small Vessel and seldom spare the Lives as well as the Goods of those that fall into their Hands for fear of telling Tales Such Villanies are frequently practised not only here but also in several other Places of the West Indies and that too with such as came to Trade with their Country-men The Merchants and Gentry indeed are no way guilty of such Actions only the Soldiers and Rascality of the People and these do commonly consist of Mulatoes or some other sort of Copper Colour Indians who are accounted very Barbarous and Cruel The Isle of Pines is about 11 or 12 Leagues long and 3 or 4 broad The West end of it is low Mangrovy Land and within which is a Lagune of about 3 or 4 Miles wide running to the Eastward but how far I know not with a small Creek of 2 or 3 Foot Water reaching to the Sea The Lagune it self is so shallow especially near the Island that you cannot bring a Canoa within 20 or 30 Paces of the shore The South side of the Island is low flat and rocky the Rocks are perpendicularly steep towards the Sea so that there is no Anchoring on that side but at the West end very good in sandy Ground The body of the Island is high Land with many little Hills incompassing a high Pike or Mountain standing in the middle The Trees that grow here are of divers sorts most of them unknown to me Red Mangroves grow in the low swampy Land against the Sea but on the firm hilly part Pine-Trees are most plentiful of these here are great Groves of a good height and bigness streight and large enough to make Topmasts or standing Masts for small Vessels at the West end there is a pretty big River of fresh Water but no coming at it near the Sea for red Mangroves which grow so thick on both sides of it that there is no getting in among them The Land-Animals are Bullocks Hogs Dear c. here are small Savannahs for the Bullocks and Deer to feed in as well as Fruit in the Woods for the Hogs Here are also a sort of Racoons or Indian Conies and in some Places plenty of Land-Turtle and Land-Crabs of two sorts white and black Both of them make holes in the Ground like Conies where they shelter themselves all day and in the Night come out to feed they will eat Grass Herbs or such Fruit as they find under the Trees The Manchaniel Fruit which neither Bird nor Beast will taste is greedily devoured by them without doing them any harm Yet these very Crabs that feed on Manchaneel are venomous both to Man and Beast that feeds on them though the others are very good Meat The white Crabs are the largest sort some of them are as big as a Mans two Fists joyned together they are shaped like Sea-Crabs having one large Claw wherewith they will pinch very hard neither will they let go their hold though you bruise them in pieces unless you break the Claw too but if they chance to catch your Fingers the way is to lay your Hand Crab and all flat on the Ground and he will immediately loose his hold and scamper away These white ones build in wet swampy dirty Ground near the Sea so that the Tide washes into their Holes but the black Crab is more cleanly delighting to live in dry Places and makes its House in sandy Earth Black Crabs are commonly fat and full of Eggs they are also accounted the better Meat tho' both sorts are very good Here are also a great many Alligators and Crocodiles that haunt about this Island and are said to be the most daring in all the West Indies I have heard of many of their Tricks as that they have followed a Canoa and put their Noses in over the Gunnal with their Jaws wide open as if ready to devour the Men in it And that when they have been ashore in the Night near the Sea the Crocodiles have boldly come in among them and made them run from their Fire and taken away their Meat from them Therefore when Privateers are hunting on this Island they always keep Sentinels out to watch for these ravenous Creatures as duly as they do in other Places for fear of Enemies especially in the Night for fear of being devoured in their sleep The Spaniards of Cuba have here some Craules i. e. Herds of Hogs with a few Indians or Mulatoes to look after them Here are also Hunters that gain a livelihood by killing wild Hog and Beef This Island is reported to be very wet I have heard many say that it rains here more or less every day in the Year but this I suppose is a mistake for there fell no Rain about us so long as we stayed here neither did I see any appearance of it in other Places of the Island We were no sooner at an Anchor but five of us went ashore leaving only the Cook and Cabbin-Boy aboard We had but two bad fowling Pieces in the Ship those we took with us with a design to Kill Beef and Hog We went into the Lagune where we found Water enough for our Canoa and in some Places not much to spare when we were got almost over it we saw 8 or 10 Bulls and Cows feeding on the shore close by the Sea This gave us great hopes of good success We therefore rowed away aside off the