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Word A	Word B	Word C	Word D	Occurrence	Frequency Band	MI	MI Band	Prominent
end_n	grow_v	leaf_n	stalk_n	1,521	5	11.6191	5	false

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ID	Title	Author	Corrected Date of Publication (TCP Date of Publication)	STC	Words	Pages
A58408	The Scots gard'ner in two parts, the first of contriving and planting gardens, orchards, avenues, groves, with new and profitable wayes of levelling, and how to measure and divide land : the second of the propagation & improvement of forrest, and fruit-trees, kitchen hearbes, roots and fruits, with some physick hearbs, shrubs and flowers : appendix shewing how to use the fruits of the garden : whereunto is annexed The gard'ners kalendar / published for the climate of Scotland by John Reid ...	Reid, John, Gardener.; Reid, John, Gardener. Gard'ners kalendar.	1683 (1683)	Wing R764_PARTIAL; ESTC R22175	97,749	153

slit the bark on each side a little distance from the bud and about half Inch above and below the same sharp that end below that it may the more easily go down and having a quill cut more than half away about an Inch long at the end for dividing the bud and rind from the stalk therewith take it off dextrously and leave not the Root behind for if you see a hole under the bud on the inside the Root is gone cast it away and prepare another when the bud is ready then with a bone made half round and sharp at the point tapering on the one side raise the bark or rind on each side the slit carefully not hurting the inner rind and with care put in the bud thrusting it down till its top Joyn with the cross cut then bind it close above and below the bud with dry'd Rushes or bass Or You may slit the bark of the stock upwards from the cross cut Or Cut the edges of the bark about the bud oblong squair and the bark of the stock fit to receive the same Or Reserve ¼ of this squair piece bark of the stock untaken off at the upper end which must be raised that the shild may slide up betwixt the same and the stock and so bind gently as before The time for Inoculation is when the sap is most in the stock namely from June till August neer a moneth after unbind i. e. cut through binding and bark with a gentle slit on the back side of the stock leaving the binding to fall away of its own accords at which time you will see who holds In March following cut off the head of the stock 4 Inches above the bud and that time twelve moneths the stub too that it may heal over the wound you may prune as graffes and pull up suckers c. See Chap 4. for more Choise buds from good bearers as before take them from the strong and well growen shoots of the same year and from the biggest end of the same and if you must carry them farr first cut off their leaves and top of the Stalks and wrap them in moist leaves or grass This much at present in general for time and manner of the several wayes of propagation 10. In planting all plants prune their Roots that is Top them a little with a sharp Knife except Asparagus Also cut their heads except Greens and Tops of Forrest-trees ordain'd for Timber yet the Side-boughes must that the head may be proportion'd to the Root Plant no Trees deep albeit some deeper than other when their Roots runs near the surface there they receive the beneficial influence of Sun and Showres that makes vegetables fair and Fruitfull Lay leitter or the like above ground the Compass of their Roots especially the first year of planting and indeed all plants require some shelter shade with Moisture when first planted till they get Rooting and strength Cut the leaves and stalks of flowers and herbes when past flower or yealded seed nor at any tyme suffer too many rather purge them in tyme no more branches flowers fruits on any tree or plant than the root can nourish perfectly Neither plant and sow every year the same plants on the same Ridg or Bed for it Improves them to be changed see more fully planting pruning preserving c. in their respective places following CHAP. II. How to Cultivate and prepare grounds 1. HAving shew'd the several wayes of propagating plants it is also most requisite that you prepare the ground for effectuating the same And that is in the first place To trench it viz. Begin at one end of the ground you mean thus to culture and open a trench from one side to the other thereof 3 or 4 foot broad and from one to two foot deep as the qualitly of the ground admits and plants require therefore liquorish must have deeper this being open measure off other 4 foot parallel at its side turne that into the open trench with the turf or surface in the bottome and the clean earth on the top the filling whereof emptieth an other therefore cut off other fower foot and turne that in as before thus trench by trench till the whole be finshed I presume you carryed the earth of the first trench to fill the last or otherwayes filled hollowes therwith and left the last trench open if convenient for receiving weeds Or if the ground be hollow in the midle begin there and trench both wayes to help the level if high in the midle begin at both sides or ends till the two open trenches meet at the hight for the same reason The latter end of harvest the ground is softest for trenching and it lying all Winter open to the weather is thereby meliorated For as trenching doth well prepare hard barren and untoil'd ground se doth it such as is exhausted by long and unskilfull usage and if at every trenching you apply proper manures mixt with the second spading or under the last shovelling and in 5 years retrench it will become to your wish for all gardens and plantations 2. The next excellent way of preparing ground is fallowing begin as soon as you reap the crop but let the ground be something moist albeit you should stay for a showre if this be not late in Autumne you may fallow in November especially if stiff ground and restirre in March or April when you plant or sow and albeit you should neither plant or sow it that year keep it clean of weeds in summer by hawing c. and at Autumne fallow again but as in trenching so in this work you should mix with proper soil Make use of the English fashion of spades which are now common and let every two delvers have a shoveller to cast up the small that falls in bottom of the furrow and the Delvers should turne up the point of the spade and nimbly break and chop all the clods throughly this is very material as well as the through mixing of the manures with the soil So that mixing stirring restirring fallowing is most pertinent for the cold chilled barren Rugged-natur'd-ground in Scotland all which softens and tenders it and so fits it for nourishing good seed and plants as I can tell by experience therefore 3. I advise our Husband-men also to the fallowing of their land as one flitfolding the same as a second Watering or overflowing land as a thrid burning the Turf as a fourth draining excessive moisture as a fifth applying proper soils and manures and that at proper seasons as a sixt laying the land to rest as a seventh and above all inclosing and planting about their land as the last and best improvement Example At the Autumnal fallowing delve or Plow deep and apply hot unrotted and uncompound dungs and manures at spring re-plow or re-delve and apply such dungs and manures as has layn mixed and rotted with Earth then Mix Rake or Harrow The summer following is to destroy the weeds

experience forbids me to make exception of the Peach or any other as some doth And proportion their heads to their Roots by pruning but here note that as Forrest-trees arc train'd up high bodies and unlopt heads so Fruit-trees with low bodies their heads lopt and branches topt therefore easily proportion'd as aforesaid Standards of 4 years old may be planted out of nurseties into Orchards Wall-trees of 2 years old The season of the year is as soon as they give over growing if the leaves be not off cut them saving a little tail of their stalks its true you may plant any time in Winter weather open but rather let the frosts be over and the spring Approaching if you have missed the fore-fore-end of Winter which is the better season For standards arc Aples Pears Cherries Plumes Goosberries Currans Barberries Quince Wallnut Chesnut Filbeards Service But I think all these deserves not a place in the orchard For Walls are Apricocks Peaches Nectarines Almond Vine Fig Currans Aples Pears Cherries Plumes c. But you need not take up much with Almond Vine Fig nor Nectarine On the south side of the Wall plant Apricocks Peaches Nectarines Vine c. On the east and west sides Cherries Plumes Aples Pears c On the north side Plumes some Pears as great Bargamor some Aples Currans especially and Rasps c. When you elect them in the nurserie hang sticks tyed at them figured and write the same figure on the Paper at their name to distinguish their species and afterwards being planted write them as they stand 5. Begin betimes to prune your Fruit-trees spare them not while young reduce them into a good shape and order while such so will they not only Soon over-grow the wounds their branches being but small but also when they should come to bear fruit you shall not need to cut so much only purge them of superfluities and this is the way to make Trees Fruitful as well as pleasant Some Ignorants are against pruning suffering their Trees to run and Ramble to such a head of confusion as neither bears well nor fair for the Root is not able to maintain such farr less fruit too and therefore are their fruit so small and Imperfect in the mean time the Tree spends its strength and so cannot live long nor make good service in their time yea somtimes the Root is not so much as able to bear such monstrous heads I know one windy day prostrate above half a score such in a little orchard Others again that are for pruning usually runs on the other extream by cutting too much and untimely and some sparing what they should cut and cutting such as they ought to spare but the general errour even amongst the learned is that they spare them While they should prune viz the very first and second year in special yea the first 5 or 6 years and then they fall a massackering at which time the branches being growen some of them greater than other who now runs away with all the nourishment from the smaller insomuch that no man can reduce them to order again having thus neglected the time Albeit you should endevour it by cutting deep or exterminating these great branches which I confess is the next remeed but then as these wounds brings cankers hollowness c. So doth the work retard their bearing fruit And indeed it s about the time that Trees ordinarly begin to bear fruit that these unskilful men begin to prune and the more they are thus cut in the head the more they spring out to wood and the less fruit they beat But experience has taught me to begin While young And when you do begin consider on the hight of the body for as high Trees are unprofitable so too low Trees in orchards are inconvenient for Aple and Pear standards two or three foot plume and cherrie 3 or 4 foot Dwarff and Wall-trees half a foot there cut the top that Runs Straight upwards making it to spread out in branches round suffer no branch to aspire beyond other in hight nor any to cross Rub or gall one another and whatever branch or twig you cut off cut close and clean by the body or branch except in the case of old Trees and great branches as I observed in pruning Forrest-trees and in toping of branches cut close and smooth Immediatly above a leaf bud slanting upwards And when you prun spare the fruit buds the full ones are them except you see them too many then purge by the Knife likwayes if afterwards you find more fruit knotted than the Tree can be able to nurse to perfection thin them in time But your first work is to proportion the head to the Root by pruning cut the tops at a convenient hight that the Tree may grow equally furnished round for cutting as it diminisheth so it forms and shapes the head insomuch as it furnisheth with new young shoots that may be train'd as you please Standards should have but four Arms breaking out for a head opening equally round these divided into branches and again subdividing into twigs that you may the better understand what to cut you may stand under go about look up through the tree where you may espy superfluities keep them clear void open within like a bell and level on the the top make some larger opens towards the the south for Sun beams entrance let no branch grow cross through the heart nor shoot spring up therein minding alwayes to prun such as cross Rubs and galls other as above is noted any branches shoots or twigs that grows not the way you would have them cut them at the place whence you think they will send furth shoots which may lead the way you desire them cut close smooth and slanting at the back of a leaf bud tending that way by this I bring Trees to order Wall-Trees especially should be cut near while young that they may send furth a thicket of small shoots for furnishing your walls from the bottom equally and if you continue to top them every year at a convenient hight perhaps about half a foot above the last that will make them shoot all their branches of an equal uniformity of greatness hight and thickness so that no long bair or naked branch be seen there neither one or two great and all the rest starved small the common fault of our wall Trees and is occasioned through neglecting to cut while young even the first year as is said above But albeit a Tree right begun and so going on yet one years neglect or wrong pruning may spoil it for as I was once pruning wall Trees an Ingenious person standing by said I cut them too low alleadging thereby the wall should be long uncovered desiring me to cut them a little higher I told him that was wrong but for to satisfie him I did cut 2 of them about 8 or 9 Inches higher than I designed or should have don The next year these two

Frost Sun and Showres doth crumble and fall tender hence ought such to be prepared by fallowing See more particularly the manner and season for each sort in their respective Chapters following 4. Suckers ar these which growes Runs Springs off or about the mother-Plant whereof is made off setts by severing or parting them off therefrom Take off these on Trees and shrubs with a violent but cleanly pull be carefull of bulbo roots and Anemonies that you wound not the mother-Plant To force such as are unapt to put forth Suckers naturally you may bair the Root of these of a woody substance cut it into the pith slit it down a little and put in a stick to keep the gap open level in the earth again so shall that lip raised spring and so much the better if there was an eye immediatly below the cut When the branches are grown cut off this Plant to live by it self Another way is to cut the Root through a little distance from the Tree with a cleanly slop down-wards and raise up the butt-butt-end of the Root so cut off till it be a little above the surface as for Root graffing hereafter discribed level in and trade the Earth again so shall the piece left at the Tree send furth young Roots and the Root so cut and raised send out a Top. Better Earth for Bulbs and other Roots will assist them to put forth Suckers Cutting the Tops of Fibrous Rooted-herbes in growing-time will help them to off sets and to last long too The season for severing off sets of Hardie-trees that lose the leaf is latter end October and beginning November albeit you may also any time till March weather open Young Tender-trees with Hardie-greens let the winter frost be over and before the sap rise April best for greens Bulbo and Tuberous Roots when they have done springing i. e. their stalkes and leaves beginning to wither All Fibrous Rooted-herbes when springing and before they run up to Flower albeit you may Plant many after the Flower is past Stalkes end leaves cut and they springing a Fresh But the first spring is best If drought Water Shrubs and Fibrous Rooted Plants upon their first Planting at least shade from the Ensuing scorchings by covering the surface with some vegitable or leitter and Water through the same if needful And though you must Water Tubro and Bulbo Roots in drought once in two three dayes yet be sparing and defend them from too much Raines 5. To propagate by cuttings is to cut off the branch or stem of a Plant and to set it in the Earth without Roots Strip it of leaves and branches Plant deeper than these with Roots and in a rich and moist soil keeping it watered and shaded Untill Rooted cut off their Tops save Greens as if your cutting be 12 Inches long let 9 be under and 3 above ground The better to effect their Rooting if a hard substance as Yew Quince c. Twist there ends a little or cleave them a piece If tender Plants of great Pith as Jasmines July-flowers c. Cut only at a joynt or knot and plant them If large stems of Pithy Trees as Poplars c. Sharp their ends down to a point reserving the bark whole on one side If stock July-flowers slit the Bark near the end in several parts round the Stem fold up the Bark so cut and taking the peel'd part close off Plant the same with this Bark spread as you do a Root The time of planting cuttings is if Trees Shrubs a little before they Spring and if Herbes when springing as above for off-sets and let the Stems of July-flowers and Wall-flowers be well shot i. e. something firme and take such as has not had a Flower 6. To increase by laying is to bend down some branch to the ground and with a hooked stick thrust into the ground stay the same in its place and cover with earth of deepness as you see fit let the soil be good watered and shaded in drought and from scorching Sun sheltered in Winter if needfull To force their Rooting if July-flowers Prune off the under and withered leaves and cut it at a joynt into the pith i. e. half way through and slit it up to the next joynt thrust down the cut part Gently into the ground making it fast cover as before If Trees and Shrubs prick the rind full of holes at the place interred or cut away the Bark round at the same place but if the branch be small use it as July-flowers and if any refuse ty them hard and fast above the slit with a piece Pack-threed or Wyre to stop the sap in its course that it may provide for Rooting Cut off all their Tops as you lay them except Greens and some very Pithy Trees The time for laying all Trees and Shrubs that lose the leaf is October as also March if secured from drought All Greens in April which therefore must be shaded July flowers in March April or July The Trees and Sherubs will be Rooted that time twelve moneths at which time transplant them the July flower layed in March may be transplanted in July or if layed in July transplanted next March or April 7. Ciruomposition is in all cases as laying save only that the earth must be raised up to the branch because it will not bend down to it Therefore fasten a Pot Basket old Hatt or the like on the Tree by a stake or some supporter let it have a hole in its bottome through which you must put the branch to be propagated and then fill the Pot with rich earth having ordered the branch as before to cause it Root and Water it often willow earth or Rotten willow sticks at the bottom of the Pot helps to retain the moistuer I have effected this with clay and Cowes dung well mixt after part of the Bark has been taken off round clapt about with a double or triple swadling of Straw or Hay Roaps This is a midsummer as well as Spring-work and very notable for to propagate such as can scarcely be otherwayes obtain'd 8. Graffing is to take a cyon or twig of atree and place into another call'd the stock fit to receite the same that the inward Bark or rind of Both may Joyn saps unite c. Whereof there be several wayes as First of Graffing in the clift saw off the head of the stock in a smooth place about half a foot above ground for Dwarffs and Wall-trees as also for Standard Aple and Pear for they will shoot up for a body but betwixt 3 and 4 foot for Standard-cherrie and Plum Pare smooth its head Ragled by the sow then cleave it a little beside the pith and with your Pen-knife cut away any jags roughness or blackness that remaines after cleaving on each side the clift within then prepare the graff by cutting on both sides from some knot or bud in forme of a wedg suitable to the clift with little shoulderings

the tree in the midle of the hole and if no earth adhere to the same make a little hut in the middle of small earth and lay the roots right spread round about with your hands that nonly folded or disorderly then put in fine small earth amongst the roots shake and move the tree so that the earth may go in amongst them till no cavity or void be left to let in the air such roots as folds raise up and level in their wonted posture with your hands shovelling on more earth and tread gently then fill one more and tread well with your heels till it be as farr filled up about as it flood in the earth before make the bulk about level on the top and just the breadth of the hole and it will be about half a foot above the surface if ordinary nurssed trees and good ground you may put on the rounding string to make its edges circular and handsome or if you will to make it like a geometrical squair then streight lines from side to side of a thicket will make up the bulks that the whole will appear as walks and bordours two wayes lay new horse dung and leitter or ferns above the bulk so as it touch not the stem covered with a little earth to keep it from drying the Rains will wash in its substance and refresh the Roots besides it keeps out summer drough and winter frofts The first year at leaft go through now and then and tread them right after winds I am not sor slaking trees but for training them so as they may not need it except you drive three stakes about each tree at the out side of the bulk then the double straw Roaps tyed from its body to all the three stakes will secure and if you fasten cross sticks briers and thorns here shall be a fence about each tree Rub off buds that offer to break foorth near the Root or any place where you would not have them but still leave some here and there on the side to stop the sap from running too much in head keep them clean of suckers weeds by hawing in summer delving loosening the mould about them spring and Autumne i. e. at the two equinoxi all 's and tread fast again as fearing drought and winds Observing is what is said you may expect monumental clean and well thriving trees if right prun'd and well Inclosed The time of planting fee season for off sets Chap. 1. Sect. 4. neglect not your time of early planting that is as soon as they give over growing and before the frosts come on and you shall fee them farr out-strip these set in the Spring though have often planted in the Spring through necessity but then I was allwayes something more than ordinary carefull to defend them from the ensuing droughts by covering their bulks and watering c. Yet I preferre the Spring for Firr and other such Greens which therefore unavoidably requires the same care 4. I shewed before how to prune in the nurserie while young now continue when planted out whilest they be small prune every year when a little older once in 2 years then once in 3 or 4. and never seldomer than in 5 or 6. And as you prune up the body till the desired hight leave small branches here and there by the way that it may bring greatness with its hight and be by consequence the more able to stand let never a Tree get a greater head than its Root is sufficiently able to nurse and bear neither be Rash in loping them except they be already top-heavy which brings crookedness if so cut at a crooked place slanting upwards clean and smooth and train up the streightest shoot again to be the Tree or rather if you can save its head by thinning and croping the branches on that side which leans i. e. the underside thus at midsummer and flit the Bark in the Spring so may it grow streight and taper Purge still the head when needfull and prune superfluities cut off all that Cross Rubs Frets and Galls on another Permit not Trees to Fork train them with one streight and taper body and a handsome round Pyramidall head And when you prune cut close and smooth by the body or bough with the Knife or Chissell and Mell or if the branch be great cut with a saw nicking it underneath first and smooth it with the Chissell so will it the better heal but if the Tree be very old and the branches great such will never be able to overgrow the wound therefore if you must cut such do at a little distance from the body the wound declining the Horizon Thus Train pines Firrs Pitch and these of the Conicall Tribe in stories only which methode they naturally follow you may cut out some of the greatest branches of the under storie but so as you leave them regular or equally furnished round so may you leave one storie cut out the second leave the thrid c. Cut not their tops yet you may crop some of their side-boughes if the Tree be top-heavy and afterwards as the Tree gets footing cut these clean off There be two seasons for pruning such as lose the leaf the first for these of little pith is October and November or any time in Winter and for them of soft wood and great hearts and for Greens let the frosts be over and before the sap in them rise except Firrs and other Rosinious Trees in November because if prun'd in March they bleed and in September and October they have not given over growing The second time is midsummer which is ordinarly about the end of June this is a safe time to prun them of great pith and any that is unapt to bleed but especially for cutting of young shoots of this year extripate all such buds and shoots as you desire not to grow and hereby you may make clean bodied Trees albeit never so apt to break out in Side-boughes as some Elms are for the diseases of all Trees with their cures see Chap. 5. Sect. 8 and 9. CHAP. IV. Of Hedges or Inclosures 1. AS there is no Countrey can have more need of planting than this so non more needfull of Inclosing for we well know how vain it is to plant unless we Inclose I spoke of Brick and Stone Walls in Part. 1 Chap. 5. Sect. 5. Now for Hedges I preferre the Holly and Hautkorn raffed from the seed albeit there be several others mix not Hedges because strong-growers over-growes the weak neither fusser Briers Brambles Docks or Thissels therein 2. Your hollies having flood two years in the seminary and two in the nurserie remove them by atrowall or a spade with a clod of Earth at their Roots croping such Roots as appears Without the clod with a sharp Knife and lessen its head by croping the side-boughes cut not its top plant in made up bordures or at the back of Ditches at afoot distance in good earth Let

years as shall be required And this cutting the Roots will cause Trees that are apt to spend more in wood than Fruit alter there-from add this to the latter-end of the last Section and the ends of the Roots cut off and their buttends raised up a little will serve as flocks to Graff upon When you would enrich your worne out plantations if the ground be poor and dry add well rotten dung prepared and mixt with soil The Water that soaks from a Dung-hill is excellent for it will follow the Roots and Enrich the Trees If the ground be cold and moist add Pigeons dung or Ashes and soot which is also excellent if it be leopared with unskilfull dunging or by noysome weeds that grows about such Roots where the owner is a sluggard hatches or nests moles mice toads c. If you observe the premises you may prevent their diseases such as ill thriving c. But if you have or do neglect and the diseases be come as if Cankers or Galls be entered cut them clean out covering the wound with a Plaister of Cowes dung and clay compound if the bark be pilled by hares conies or mice apply a Plaister of the same but better prevent the last three by swadling the Trees with Straw or Hay ropes unloosed in summer and renewed every Winter if your fence cannot Guard them Ill taken off branches broken or rotten branches must be cut off clean and smooth If any Trees be bark-bound which is the misery of many and especially Forrest-trees slit them in die Spring through the bark on both sides with a sharp Knife from the head to the Root and delve about them otherwayes raise and plant ebber if too deep which is the common cause of this disease together with bad inclosure If Jaundise cut off the diseased wood if moss scrape or singe it off but its vain to attempt the cure untill you first remove the cause which you will find to proceed from some malignity at the Roots whither the disease be Bark-binding Cankers c. And this most commonly by ill-planting and not inclosing as among Clay Water impenitrable Gravel c. Water must be draineds it an intollerable evil Cold clayes stiff and hard soil must be trenched and mixed with dungs and soils often stirred and fallowed as above is directed And if you would have Trees to prosper observe their nature and wherein they most delight and so apply and help them accordingly 9. And for destroying of vermine there is traps for Moles of several forms besides you may watch and delve them up with the spade And for mice the traps from Holland or for want thereof Pots sunk in the Earth where they haunt till their mouth be level with the surface half full of Water covered with a little chaff wherein they drown themselves and so doth Toads Asps c. Cast away the Earth where the ants lodge supplying its place with stiff clay Place Cow-hooves for the woodlice and erwigs to lodg in all night and so scald them early morning Pour scalding Water in the nests of Wasps and hang Glasses of All mingled with Hony where you would not have them frequent Dash Water on the Trees for Caterpillers by the Stroups we get from Holland Gather Snails and Wormes shoot Crows Pyes Jayes and spread Nets before your Wall-Fruit for their preservation See the Appendix how to gather and preserve Fruit and how to make Cyder c. CHAP. VI. Of Fruits Herbes and Roots for the Kitchen 1. ALL the Fruits whereof I spoke in the last Chapter are for the Kitchen or Table but they grow on Trees or Shrubs yet there is some falls in here the tenderest whereof are Melons and are not worth the while for you must raise them on the early Hot-bed the making whereof is in Chap. 2. Sect. 7. which when fit for seed prick 4 or 5 in together at 3 Inches distance through the bed setting drinking Glasses on them at first and cover on the matts over the whole carefully to preserve from Snow Rains and Winds taking off the marts in temperate dayes but keep on the Glasses except in a warme space that you acquaint them a little with the Air by raising the edg of the Glasses with a little Straw on the laun side closing it at night again When they stand in need Water with Water made warme by standing an day or two in the Sun impregnate with pigeons dung but let it be fresh and clean conveying it to the Roots not touching their leaves with it if they be sowen on the last discribed hotbed viz. in cases sow at a wider distance and you need not transplant but renew the heat when needful and as they grow larger cover with the Bell-Glasses giving them Air by hoising the Glasses till they can endure the Sun without them but dill cover all close at night again when they have put out runners 4 or 5 Inches long cut off one or two joynts at the end and when they have gathered more strength cut off all but the prime shoots And when the Fruit knots nip off that runner above the Fruit between the 2d and 3d joynt cutting still off the new ones that spring but do not expose the Fruit to the Sun lay tile under the Fruit wipe the Dew off the Glasses and plants every morning but keep the Glasses on the Fruit and Water non now Cucumbers may be ordered that same Very way and so may Pompions but they are not so tender I have raised them without Glasses Strawberries are a very fine and delicat Fruit and are easily increased but best by the small Plants at the strings when taken Root at the joynts plant them at any or both springs but I find most of fibrous Rooted plants apt to be spued out of ground by Winter if not Rooted sufficiently before Dung delve mix and prepare a light and warme soil prun their Root and top and plant in streight lines 5 rowes in the bed and suffer them never to over-run but keep each stock by themselves still taking off all their strings except at sometime you permit a few for increass weed and haw among them and in September cut them within 2 Inches of the ground and lay Cow dung over the bed reserving their tops free covered with a strinkling of Sand this will much improve them So as they will not need renewing for 6 or 7 years Artichoks is a fine and tailing Fruit and is increased by offsets chiefly planted in the spring a fat and well cultured soil light and warme enriched with Sheeps dung plant in straight lines about 3 foot distance having prun'd their Roots and cut their tops within half a foot Water if needfull with qualified Water and still cut away their under and hanging leaves and haw the weeds as they begin to peep when their Fruit is spent cut them within half a foot of the ground and delve and cover the plot over with dung and leitter

keeping their tops free and in Aprile delve down the same and extirpate them of Suckers sliping them off carefully leaving 2 or 3 at most to each stock forbearing And they will flourish near 9 or 10 years Great beans must be planted early in the Spring as soon as the great frosts or over in deep rich ground 2 foot Intervall and half a foot in their rows these for seed when full ripe cut and bind in little sheaves and lay on Trees to dry Kidnes in Aprile a light and warme soil support them with sticks Peas that you would have early sow in the full moon of Novem if a warme place but do not trust too much unto them Sow in Feb. and hence monthly til Iune that you may have them till the frosts surprize in an open light warme dry soil and if they ly on the bair ground they will sooner ripe by reflection but if you would have them fruitful set sticks amongst them while young for their tenderals to climb on and keep them allwayes clean of weeds when ripe you may easily win some for seed and sow not every year on the same plot to change the ground Improves them I preferre the setting them by lines 5 rowes in the bed as part 1. Chap 5. Sect 2. make the holes nimbly by the lines with a dible 1 ½ Inch deep and 2 Inches distance from another or the same hand fallowing and put one in each hole then give the bed a smooth with the rake head which fills the holes and covers the peas one pound makes move service thus than 3 otherwayes it s soon performed and they spring orderly 2. Of Sallads and pot-herbes the choicest sallad is Asparagus sow its seed in March good ground and that time rewely moneths transplant into an exceeding rich and well mixed ground of Rotted dung and light Earth you may streatch lines alongst and cross the beds and mark with the edg of the rule then gather little huts of Earth at the crossings whereon you must spread the Roots of your Asparagus two or three on a hut but do not top their Roots you may perceive their poynts are like the runners of liquorish then cover the sets with the Rotted dung and Earth 2 Inches over which has been lying a year incompose They cannot abide wet grounds and weeds will quyt destroy them at the Approach of winter cut their stalks and cover their beds with leitter and dung from the stables The winter Raines will wash in its substance to their Roots at Spring e're they peep remove it and loosen the Earth amongst them with a fork and cover them near half Inch with the mould Raked and evened but do not tread on them Follow this direction yearly and in 4 or 5 years it will be excellent for cutting out the biggest and tenderest and a little within the ground but hurt not them ready to peep the seed is ripe when red You may have early Asparagus if you plant some strong Roots on your early hotbed which about a moneth hence will Spring and then dy Purslain may be sowen on the early hotbed it cannot endure deep Interring sow on a fine mould like dust and only clap it a little with the shovell hence on the cold bed but fat and fine soil through the summer in drills for convenience of weeding and cutting and if you please transplant it when 2 Inches long reserve the early sowen for seed till their pods grow blackish then pull and hang to dry and Rub out As purslain so lettice by seeds only at the same seasons but the winter with corn sallad in August they love a fat soil something moist that for winter more dry Suffer these for seed to run up and only cleanse of under and withered leaves It 's ripe when it begins to fly with the wind pull it and lay on a clothe to perfect and Rub out in a dry day Sow cresses at the same times And plant Tarragon by off-sets in the Spring The small cherault by seed as cresses As also Burnet but it continues many years still yielding seed Sampler growes at seaside in Gallaway not so well in out gardens Succory and Endive by seeds and offers at both springs they continue many years Sorrall by offsets some by seeds also in beginning of Aprile a good fat soil a little shade 6 or 7 rowes in the bed weeded all summer and cut near the ground in Septemb In 2 or 3 years replant into another place for they soon Impair the ground of that part appropriate for them Spinage by seed only in Feb and March but that sowen beginning August is most profitable cut it beginning Oct and it will Spring a fresh And be ready for Spring stoves then reserve some uncut for seed it prospers well in a very fat Earth Not too dry And so doth beets who are also propagate the same way only them sowen at Spring are most serviceable Sow beet card in the fattest and when something strong you may transplant they seed the next not that year wherein you sow them Order burrage as spinage it s also Annuall So bugloss but it continues many years Marigold may be ordered as burrage and white Arage as Spinage Parsly by seeds in Feb and March they bring furth their seeds next year whereby they must be yearly renewed Sellery in a light fat soil 8 rowes in the bed as parsly it continues long yearly yielding seed after the first so doth smalladg Alexander They may be blanched as succory and Endive viz. sellery wowen at spring Transplante at midsummer in a very fat and fine earth half foot deep furrowes 3 foot between the rowes and but 3 Inches in the rowes and as it growes up gather the earth at its sides from the Intervalls leaving the top free and still as it growes earth it up so shall it be blanched for a winter sallad Garleeks and shallot by offsets in March a light and fat soil 8 rowes in the bed I use neither cutting nor twisting their stakes but when their fibres begin to Rott latter end August take them up and spread to dry a little and house them in a dry room with board floor for use Leeks by seed in April a fat soil though something stiff In June you may thin them by Transplantation prun their Roots and tops set them at three Inches distance and continue to crop them till Octob the french seed is best ours not worth the while Onyons by seeds in March a Rich Warme light mould well mixt with Rotted compost and sifted pigeons dung give them a thin coat or covering of earth Sow also beginning July for Shibols it s not worth the pains to win their feed Plant offsets of sives in spring 9 rowes in the bed in a rich and low ground Cole Flower is a fine cole sow on the early hot bed for its hard to get winter plants through to purpose sow thin and ebb and carefully

and other herbes Spinage Sorral Scorzonera green Asparagus Lettice and other Sallads Pickled Artichocks Beet-rave Barberries Cucumbers Housed Aples and Pears Conserved Cherries Plumes Peaches Apricocks Goosberries Currans Also the wines of Aples Pears Cherries Liquorish Hony c. MAY. PUll up suckers and haw about the Trees Rub off unnecessary buds Sheer or clip Hedges Prun tender Greens Not the Rosinious bring furth the housed ones refreshing trimming them Plant all sorts of medicinal Herbes Sow all sweet ones which are tender Gather Snails Wormes catch Moles Sow Letice Cresses Purslain Turneep Radish Peas c. Continue weeding and watering Near the end watch the Bees ready to swarm Garden Dishes and drinks in season Coleworts and other Herbes being eaten with contentement is better than a fatted Ox without it sage with Butter Leeks Parsly Thyme Marjorum sorrall Spinage c. Scorzonera Asparagus Letice Purslain and other Sallades and Pot-herbes Pickled Artichocks Barberries Beet-rave Cucumbers housed Aples and Pears for many uses Early Cherries Straw-berries near the end Cyder Metheglin Liquorish Ail c. JUNE CLeanse about the Roots of Trees Suckers and weeds water their Covered Bulks especially the new planted Fell the long small ill-train'd Forrest-trees in the nurserie within half foot of the ground Unbind graffs Prun all Wall and Standard Trees Towards the end you may Inoculat And Increase by circumposition Gather Elm seed and sow Immediatly Transplant Coleslowers Coleworts Beets Leeks Purslain c. In moist weather at least water first the ground if dry Sow Peas Radish Turneep Letice Chervil Cresses c. Destroy Snails Worms c. Begin to lay carnations or July-flowers shade support and prun such as will blow Water pots and thristy plants Weeding and mowing is in season and so is distillation Bees now Swarm look diligently to them Garden Dishes and Drinks in season Cole Beets Parsly Sorrall and other Pot-herbes Purslain Letice and other Sallads Radish Scorzonera Asparagus Green Peas and Artichocks Green Goosberries Ripe cherries Rasps Currans Straw-berries Housed Aples and Pears Cyder Metheglin c. JULY FAllow ground as soon as the crop comes off Prune and purge all Standard-trees Ply Nail Prune and dress your Wal-trees Pull up suckers and weeds Haw and Water where needful Inoculat Fruit-trees Shrubs rare Greens Flower-trees Increase the same by laying Clip your Hedges after Rain Suffer such Herbes and Flowers to run to seed as you would save Cutting the rest a handful from the ground Sow Turneep Radish Lettice Onion Cole-flower Cabbage and Coleworts in the full Moon Near the end sow Beets Spinage c. You may plant Strawberries Violets Camomile Lay July-flowers Plant their seedlings Slip and set Hypaticas Bears-ears Couslips Helibors c. Take up Bulbo and Tuberous ones that are dry in their stalks if you mind to change their places and keep till September but some would be set immediatly Supply voids with potted Annualls Lay Grass and Gravell Make Cherrie and Rasberrie Wine c. Prevent the Bees latter swarmes Kill Drons Wasps c. Garden Dishes and drinks in season Beets and many Pot-herbes and Sweet-herbes Beet-card Purslain Lettice Endive c. Cabbage Cole-flower Scorzonera Beetrave Carrot Radish Turneep Peas Beens and Kidnees Artichocks Strawberries Rasps Currans Goosbeeries Cherries Plumes summer Pears and Aples Cyder Metheglin and other Wines AUGUST FAllow bordures Beds Nurseries and the bulks of Trees Yet Inoculat Ply and purge Trees Pull up suckers and weeds Clip Hedges Gather the Black-cherrie and Morella Stones Gather Mezerion berries Gather the seeds of most Herbes and Flowers Cut your Physick-herbes In the beginning sow Cabbage thô I confess it s too late See the last moneth Beets and Beet-card Spinage Black radish Chervil Letice Corn-sallade Endive Scorzonera Carvy Marygold Angelica Scurvy-grass c. Take up ripe Onions Garleeks and Shallot Unbind buds Inoculated Cut and string Strawberries Lay July-flowers Sow Columbines Holyhoks Larks-heells Candytuffs Popies and such as can endure Winter Take up your bulks and plant as in last Sift the ground for Tulips and Gladiolus Plunge in potted Annualls in Vacants Keep down weeds by hawing c. Lay Grass and Gravel Beat Roll and mow well Make Goosberrie and Curran Wines c. Towards the end take Bees take the lightest first those who are near heaths may differ a little Destroy Wasps straiten the passage by putting on the hecks to secure from Robers Garden Dishes and drinks in season Many Pot-herbes and Sallades Cabbage Coleflower Beet-card Turneep Radish Carrot Beet-rave Scorzonera Peas Beans and Kidnees Artichocks Cucumbers Aples Pears Plumes Apricocks Geens Goosberries Currans Rasps Strawberries c. Cyder Metheglin Cherrie Wine Curran Wine Goosberrie Wine Raspberrie Wine c. SEPTEMBr. FAllow Trench and level ground Prepare pits and bordures for Trees Gather plan seed Almond Peach and white Plum Stones Gather ripe Fruits Plant furth Cabbage Remove bulbs and plant them Refresh Traine and House your tender Greens Refresh and trim pots and cases with July-flowers and other fine Flowers and plants Carrying them to pits shelter and covert giving them Air c. Towards the end gather Safron Make Cyder Perry and other Wines c. Straiten the entrance to Bee-hives destroy Wasps c. Also you may now remove Bees Garden Dishes and drinks in season Varieties of Pot-herbes and Sallades Cabbage Cole-flower Peas Beans and Kidnees Artichocks Beet-card Beet-rave Scorzonera Carrots Turneeps Radish Cucumbers Aples Pears Apricocks Peaches Nectarines Quince Grapes Barberries Filbeards Cyder Liquorish Ail Metheglin and Wine of Cherries Rasps Goosberries Currans c. OCTOBER GAther Winter Fruits Trench and fallow grounds mixing with proper soil to ly over the Winter Prepare dungs and mannures mixing and laying them in heaps bottom'd and covered with Earth Plant Hawthorn Hedges And all Trees that lose their leaves Also lay their branches Prun Roses Gather seeds of Hassell Hawthorn Plan Ash Beach Oak Aple Pear c. Cut Strawberries Artichocks Asparagus covering their beds with dung and Ashes Earth up Winter Sallades Herbes and Flowers a little Plant Cabbage c. Plant Tulips Anemonies and other Bulbs Sow the seed of Bairs-cars Cowslips Tulips c. Beat and Roll Gravel and Grass Finish your last weeding and mowing Lay bair leopered Tree Roots and remove what harms them also delve and dung such as require it Drain excessive moisture wherever it be Pickle and conserve Fruits Make Perry and Cyder You may now safely remove Bees Garden Dishes and drinks in season Coleworts Leeks Cabbage Cole-flowers Onions Shallot Beans Blanched Endive and Sellery Pickled Asparagus Purslain c. Scor●onera Beet-rave Carrots Turneeps Parsneeps Potatoes Skirrets Artichocks Cucumbers Aples Pears Plumes Almond c. Cyder Perry and Wine of Cherries Currans Goosberries Rasberries Ail of Liquorish Metheglin c. FINIS