with a Vital Faculty to bring forth its like it contains potentially the whole Plant in it therefore it may and is the more to be observed Or as a learned Physitian hath it speaking of Man and the World The Chaos or first Matter was made a World and of this World was made Man so a Tree groweth from the Seed the Seed is the beginning of the Tree and in every grain or seed of a Tree there lies hid another three See Philosophy Reformed page 58. The Industrious Farmer or Yeoman will take care that the Grain which he soweth be of the best Kind for Largeness and Goodness in every particular and hath oft found by Experience to his loss that the Corn which is taken to sowe from that which was your smooted or mill dew'd doth oft produce smooted or black Corn again he knowing also that this black Corn which is like dust within will not grow Then what should be the Reason that that which growes in the same Ear will oft-times produce black smooted Corn that hath nothing but a little black dust in it or a black flinty Kernel of little or no use but harmfull to the rest though that which you sowe seem sound and a very likely berryed Corn When I have found by Experience that Wheat which hath not been so likely to the Eye as that which was freer from smooted Corn hath brought or produced clearer Corn by much than the others Now I have discoursed with some which would not spare to say positively that your smooted or black Wheat would grow and so produce black Wheat again which is a great Mistake But this I know that your Wheat which is like black dust within will not grow at all nor some of your black flinty Wheat but some of it will produce blades some stalks with ears but no sound grain some with good and bad in one ear and so the nearer it is to perfect sound grain the nearer it produceth its like Yet though this may and will produce some good and some bad as I say yet no black smooted grain unless meeting with some accidental Cause if the Grain be perfect sound but according to its defect so may be the success of your Crop Now this which I call the Accidental Cause is the Mildew which may well be so called because of its Malignity especially to Wheat and Hops because in them most perfected though many other Plants suffer as much This Maldew or Mildew is a Dew which is drawn from the Earth and Herbs in a drye and calm time and when Herbs are in their prime by the Sun and wanting wind to fan off their grosness and also being drawn from Herbs which make it thick and sweet and not so active to aspire 't is most in your inclosed Grounds and Valleys and to those grounds which lie tending to the Oriental part of the Heavens as all Blasting winds are Now I suppose these may be the Reasons your Valleyes do afford more moysture than your Hills as is oft seen by your Mists which are more frequent in them than on Hills this being drawn up by the Sun in the Day-time and wanting wind to assist its Motion as I said before doth hang in the lower Region and when the Sun sets it falls upon your Plants with its thick clammy substance and in those whose bark is tender and young and pores open with the heat of the season hinders the sap of the Plant or Tree to ascend to nourish his flowers or shoot 'T is observed that when your Wheat doth shoot up to Ear and flower it doth it suddenly and likewise your Hops and then this Clammy or Mildew coming upon it before the Air hath hardned it to resist it For the Air being warm Nature doth not so much as dream of this unkind Enemy And if it falls on Wheat when the Ear is new formed then there is the black smooty Wheat but if the Ear hath blown even when or before it comes or that the whole stalk be not surrounded with it then you shall have some of your grains good and some bad according as they were in setting or find Nourishment I have oft observed in your black Heart white Heart and other great-leaved Cherries this Dew to fall upon them at the top just at the beginning of Midsommer shoot and hath so stopped the shoot that it hath shot forth in other places below and on the top of the shoots you may see many little Flies feeding on this Dew and on the Leaves of Oak and Maple 't is plainly to be seen and tasted and though destructive to Corn c. yet it is mighty Relief to the industrious Bees The Reason why those grounds which hang from the Horizon to the East are most subject to this Dew and to Blasting as it is termed may be as I judge the Suns drawing these vapours towards it just as a great Fire draweth the Air in a Room to it so the Sun having set these in Motion yet not having strength enough to draw them into the middle Region to form them into a Cloud doth yet draw them till he is below our Horizon then these Dews tend to the Earth from whence they were taken and in motion to the West do as it were fall upon that Ground which hangs Eastward at right Angles therefore offensive to them most But since I am speaking of this usefull Grain Wheat I shall take notice of that which I know is used with good success They take their Seed-wheat and steep it twenty or twenty four hours in water and Salt which is found by experience to do good to the Wheat against the blackness and helps it in its growth the Reasons I conceive are these The steeping it prepares it for its spearing and makes it take root the sooner therefore if late in sowing steep the longer if early not so long And if there be any Grain that is not perfect sound this will either kill or cure it And I suppose that Brine to Wheat is as Sack to a young Child a little doth a great deal of good but have a care you do not let it lie too long in a strong Brine lest you stupifie it or kill it with too much Kindness I do advise my Countrey-men if late in sowing any of their Grains to steep especially Barley as well as Wheat if your Grain be spear'd it is never the worse provided you sow it before the spear be chill'd or dryed therefore commit it to the Ground and cover it as you can Your Wheat Oats and Barley differ much in their growth from other seeds for they put forth their roots at the great end and then one blade or long leaf at the small end which comes between the skin and the body of the seed Your Beans and Pease put forth their Root at the side and then the same sort of Leaf at the same place where the Root came out that grows on the stalks
So doth your Walnut Chesnut Horse-Chesnut Peaches Almonds Apricocks Plumbs c. and the onely difference from Beans and Pease is that these Stone-fruits put forth at the small ends and the other alwayes at the sides In like manner there be several sorts of Trees and most sorts of Plants that be small which put forth Root at the small end and as soon as that Root hath laid hold of the ground they then send out two false Leaves nothing like those that grow on the Tree or Plant which two false Leaves are the seed which divides into two parts and so stand some small time on the top of the ground and then between these two false Leaves comes forth a Shoot which produceth leaves like those of the Tree or Plant from whence it came Of this way of growth there be an infinite number both of Trees and Plants as the Elm Ash Sycamore Maple Pear Apple Quince and the most sorts of the seeds of Trees which are not environed by Stones or Shells of seeds the Melon Parsnip Carrot Carduus Angelica and indeed most sorts of seeds CHAP. V. Of the several wayes to raise Forrest-trees or others and how to perform the same by Laying THose sorts of Trees which will grow of Cuttings are the easiest to raise by Layings some of which sorts you may see in the next Chapter Now touching the best time for laying your Layers of Trees observe that if they be Trees that hold their Leaf all Winter as Firres Pines Holly Yew Box Bayes Lawrels Elix c. Let such be laid about the latter end of August But if they be such as shed their Leaf in Winter as Oak Elm Line Sycamore Apple Pear Mulberry c. let such be laid about the middle of October I do grant that you may lay at any time of the Year but these times I take to be the best for then they have the whole VVinter and Summer to prepare and draw Root in at that time of the year the Sun having so much power on the sap of the Tree as to feed the Leaf and Bud but not to make a shoot and if that little sap that rises be hindred as it is by some of the following wayes of laying the Leaves and Buds yet gently craving of the Layer makes the Layer prepare for Root or put forth root a little to maintain it self being it finds it cannot have it from the Mother-plant and being it wants but little Nourishment at that time of the Year I think it is better to lay Layers of Trees and to set Cuttings than at other times In Summer when the sap is much abounding or in VVinter when the sap stirres little or in the Spring when the sap begins to rise for then it comes too suddenly to draw sap from the Layer before it hath drawn or prepared for root for Nature must be courted gently though I know in small Plants the Spring or Summer doth very well for they being short-lived are therefore the quicker in drawing root and besides that Trees are many times laid as they are not As for those Trees that are apt to grow of Cuttings take but some of the boughs and lay them into the Ground covering them about half a foot with fresh fine Mould leaving them with the end of your Layer about one foot or a foot and a half out of the ground keeping them moist in Summer and in Twelve Months time you may remove them if rooted if not let them lie longer Another way is take a Bough you intend to lay and cut it half way through right cross the wood then slit it up towards the end half a foot or according as your Layer is in bigness lay the slitted place into the ground and you shall find that slitted place take root if laid as the former and so ordered This way you may encrease many fine Flowers and small Plants but they being out of my Element at this time I shall not speak of the ordering them for fear I seem tedious to some Another way to lay a Layer of a Tree is take a piece of VVyer and tie it hard round the bark of the place you intend to lay into the ground twisting the ends of the VVier that it may not untie prick the place above the VVier thorough the bark with an Aul in several places then lay it into the ground as the first A fourth way of Laying of trees is Cut a place round about one Inch or two where you find it most convenient to lay into the ground and so proceed as is shewed in the first way of Laying A Fifth way to lay some sorts of Trees is to twist the place you intend to lay into the ground as you do a withe and lay it as is shewed in the first way of Laying by this way and the first you may furnish your Woods and Hedges For they being easie any ordinary man will perform the same Thus you may from one Stub as a Sallow or the like between one Fall and another of your VVood for a Rod square of Ground and more if that one Stub produce but strong shoots fill it well with Wood For when the Stub hath got two or three years shoot then lay round it as before at large is shewed there letting them remain to produce new Stubs But if you would increase by laying some young Trees from an high Standard whence you cannot bend the boughs down to the ground then you must prepare either Box Basket or Pot and fill them full of fine sifted Mould putting a little rotten VVillow-dust with this Earth for that keeps Moysture to help the Layer to draw root then set the Pot or Box thus fill'd with Earth upon some Tressel or Post as your Ingenuity will direct you then lay your Bough by the second third or fourth way of Laying leaving not too much head out because the wind will offend it if you doe and by its own motion be likely to rub off the tender young Root and thus lay your Hops this way These things observed you may raise many choyse Trees as Mulberry Hors-Chesnut c. These Rules may instruct you sufficiently concerning the propagation of Trees by Laying but let me tell you it is hard to raise a fine straight Tree by a Layer or Cutting I have hinted at the Reasons before Note the smaller your Boughs be Set them the less out of the ground and keep them clean from VVeeds that they spoyl not your Layers Alsonote that the harder the VVood is then the young VVood will take root best laid in the ground but if a soft VVood then older boughs will take Root best Now you that be Lovers of wood make use of these sure Directions and if you repent then blame me CHAP. VI. Of those sorts of Trees that will grow of Cuttings and how to perform the same IF your Ground be moist you may Set with success any sort of Willow Sallow or Osier
Content of Man and these two Jewels no man that well understands himself would willingly be without For it is not onely set down for a certain Truth by many wise Men but confirmed by Experience The Learned Lord Bacon commends the following of the Plough in fresh Ground to be very healthful for Man but more the Digging in Gardens saying It is best to take the Air of the Earth new turned up by Digging with the Spade or standing by him that diggeth He tells you also that he knew a great Man that lived long who had a clean Clod of Earth brought to him every Morning as he sate in his Bed and would hold his Head over it a good pretty while c. See pag. 203. of his Natural History For though the Earth be two-fold External or Visible and Internal or Invisible the External is not the Element but the Body of the Element in which is the Sulphur Mercury and Salt for the Element of the Earth is Life and Spirit wherein lies the Astra's of the Earth which bring forth all growing things for it hath in it self the Seeds and seminal Vertues of all things for as it is made fruitfull by all the other Elements so it bringeth forth all things out of it self as Trees Herbs and Flowers and every one of these is again the Astrum and Seed See Philosophy Reformed p. 38. Thus is shewed that the Earth hath in it the Virtues of all Herbs it must then be also healthful as they be But for that part of the Earth that is neer the Surface the Plants suck most of its Virtue into them therefore that which lieth deeper may be the more healthfull for Man to smell of for Consumption Loss of Appetite c. And Trees do not onely catch the Mildew and other offensive Dews with their Leaves but screen the Aire of other bad ones and makes it much the healthfuller for Man Therefore you that live neer to Fenns Moors and other unhealthfull places plant your Seats round with Trees and some of those that yield healthfull smells For it is very certain what the aforesaid Learned Author saith p. 204. That Odours do Nourish for he saith he knew a Gentleman that would fast three or four dayes without Meat Bread or Drink by onely smelling to a great wisp of Herbs c. And in p. 44. in the History of his Life and Death saith That Odours are especially profitable for the Comforting of the Heart And further he saith We commend above all other Odours that of Plants growing and not plucked taken in the open Aire as Violets Gilly-flowers Pinks Bean-flowers Line-tree Blossoms Hony-suckles Wall-flowers Roses Mints Lavender c. Orange-trees Citron Mirtles c. Therefore to walk or sit neer the breath of these Plants would not be neglected Thus you see this Learned man takes notice of the Line-tree and if the simple Water that is distilled from the Flowers be good against the Plague or other infectious Diseases as certain it is then sure the smell from the Blossoms themselves must be very good therefore excellent to plant neer your Houses And as I have heard a wise Mans Opinion was That the Line-trees in the Cities in Holland adde much to the Health of the Inhabitants and it is my belief I have hinted at the bigness of one Lime or Line-tree in the ensuing lines and shall here shew you for your further encouragement to plant and preserve Trees the Content of one Tree as I had it from the Honourable Sir Henry Capell as followeth A Witch-Elm in Sir Walter Baggott's Park in the County of Stafford Two Men five dayes felling it It lay 40 yards in Length The Stool five yards two foot over Fourteen Load of Wood brake in the fall Forty eight Load in the Top. Eighty pair of Naves were made out of it Eight thousand six hundred and sixty foot of Boards and Planks It cost Ten pounds seventeen shillings Sawing The whole Substance was conceived to be 97 Tuns It was felled in the Year 1674. And now I shall set before you some Rocks which are in some Books and for their strangeness are entertained too long to the Abuse of many But these which I mark here pray endeavour to avoyd First Error It is affirmed by some that if you put your Seeds in a Box Shell or Squill and so set them in the Ground these seeds will unite in one and so bring forth larger and better Fruit but if they should joyn in Roots or Branches that will not make the Fruit the better or larger nor of two kinds in Taste as some have said I rather think that putting seeds into such things will stupifie them and destroy them but if they should unite in one shoot that shoot that groweth the fastest would lead all the sap into its Head and so strain it through its Pores that it would make no more Alteration of a Fruit that such a shoot would Naturally have had than a Graft doth by being grafted on several stocks For what Alteration there is of Plants it is from their Seed and is stamped in them at their first Conception and Nativity which the Art of Man helpeth and may improve somewhat but never to alter the Kind by Budding Grafting c. I shall not trouble you and my self in Answering these following Errors but if you be not satisfied with my saying they are so I shall answer them when you desire me as well as I can So I shall onely name them and shew you them as I have found them Second Error To water Seeds with coloured water or Plants to make them produce what coloured Flowers or Fruit you please It is in vain to think so Third Er. To graft or bud Stone-Fruit or Kernels or Nuts or to bud such Fruit as beareth Kernels on such as beareth Nuts or Stones or to bud Fruits-trees on Forrest and the contrary or to graft or bud Figs on Peaches or Apricocks or to bud any sort of Trees on Coleworts or to bud Peaches on the Mulberry-tree to have them Early or to bud Damsons on Gooseberry Mulberry or Cherries to have them Ripe all Summer or by budding Cherries on these Stocks and to wet them in Honey and Cloves makes them taste sweet and spicy or by budding or grafting to make a Fruit taste half an Apple and half a Pear or half a Pippin and half a Pearmain or an Apple half-sweet half-soure or to graft a Rose on a Holly or to graft Cherries on other Stone-fruit to come without Stones or to graft a Vine on a Cherry or to take the Pith out of two Grafts and then joyn them together and graft them brings a Fruit without Kernels so they may when both grow or to graft a Cyon with the small End downward will make it bring a Fruit without Core These and the like are great Errors and very false in Grafting and Budding Fourth Er. To set a whole Apple or Pear the Pippins will come
of the Kallendar before next year Truth with Experience through this Nation Shall Sainted be by a right Observation Leave room Astrologers for Truth and see You write it next year in your Diary Now those Seeds that are of Taste mild Skin or Shell close you may keep them till the Spring approach and longer if temperately dryed and dry keep as your Acorns and your Chesnuts c. but the Spring after they be gathered is a sure season to sow them therefore deferre no longer But as for your Seeds that are of a hot or bitter taste or have close skins or shells you may keep them till the Autumn following after they be gathered if occasion be if they be ripe gathered and dry kept so the fleshy part be clean taken off when that is ripe Though I know an ingenious person did hold that to sow them with their flesh on as Peaches or Cherries they would grow as well as he said but that was his mistake For the fleshy part was ordained by the Almighty for the use of Man Beasts or Birds and tends nothing to the growth of the Seed or Stone but rather to its dissolution by stupefying it as I have tryed by sowing the Kernels of rotten Pears and Apples which would not grow though but a little time rotten There be many Stones Keyes and Seeds which be of a hot and bitter taste as your Ash Peaches Almonds the Mizerion Mustard-seed c. yet though I say they may be kept long yet I advise you not to neglect your season for many of these Seeds and others will lie near two years in the Ground before they come up if you sowe them in October it will be the Spring come Twelve-months before they come up and if you sow them Early in the Spring they then will come up the next Spring Another way whereby you may know Seed of this Nature is by their long hanging on the trees for there Nature finding it self strong taketh the less care to seek out early to preserve its kind and also Almighty God hath made these very usefull for the Creatures in this world therefore hath ordered it thus by his Divine Providence The Ash Holly c. hang long on the tree and lie long in the ground the Elm Sallow Sycamore fall soon and come up soon CHAP. III. The Shape of Seeds and their Weight do Inform you how to set them THe very Form and Shape of Seeds hath instructed me how to set them as an Acorn falls to the ground most with its small End downwards Thus if they fall upon Mold or Moss you may observe the most of them to be on one side with the small end tending most to the Earth And I suppose that this posture is the best for to set any Stone or Nut if you will be curious For if you observe any Seed of what Tree soever it be that grows in England first it puts forth a Root at the small End and when that Root hath laid hold of the Ground then it puts forth the shot for the tree at the very same place where the Root came Then seeing that both Root and shoot put out at the small End if set with the small End downwards the Body of the Stone or Seed may hinder the shoot so that it is the best way to lay them on their sides in the Ground if they be heavy seeds you may sow them the deeper as Acorn Peach Apricock Walnut Chesnut c. about two or three Inches deep If light Seed then cover them with but little Mold as the Elm c. as ½ an Inch deep To conclude then lay the flattest side of your Seed downwards as if it be a Peach stone set it as it will lye on a Table or the like and it will lie with the Crack where the shell parts uppermost and the other crack lowermost to let out the water as I judge for Kernels in Stones or Shells do not love too much water at first Thus have I shewed you the several wayes to raise Trees That is how they may be raised and how to know the time at least to assist you to know the time to set them by their shapes c. as also how to set them the best way by their Form and Weight which may be some assisting to you if you meet with far-Countrey seeds My Lord had thirteen sorts of strange seeds sent him as I remember from Goa I never saw the like nor none that saw them here By the help of those aforesaid Reasons I raised ten of the thirteen sorts though some of them lay almost a year in the ground But I also must tell you I lost all my ten sorts the first Winter but one sort and that the second for want of a Green-house some of them I suppose were Annuels I shall give you one Chapter more of Seeds and then I will shew you fully what as yet I have but named O great Jehovah thee I doe adore Thy works I do admire and thee implore So to assist me as that I may write With Solomon's Wisdom that I may indite My few lines so that they may be Vsefull unto this Land pleasing to thee CHAP. IV. Observations of all sorts of Keyes and Seeds LEt your Keyes be through-ripe or when you find them to begin to fall much which is a sure sign of any Fruit or seeds Ripeness unless by accident gather them off some young straight thriving tree My reason of gathering them from off a young thriving tree is then will your Keyes or seed be the larger and solider therefore by consequence they be the abler and likelier to shoot the stronger and to maintain themselves the better And I know by Experience that the seeds gathered of old Plants or Trees or old seeds so the seeds be perfect will come up somewhat sooner than the seed of young Trees my aforesaid Reason doth this somewhat demonstrate or take it thus Nature finding her self weak in these Seeds doth like a provident Mother seek the sooner to provide for her weak Children as a great Philosopher and Naturalist saith That Nature is one in divers things and various in one thing See Parad. pag. 90. of the Tree of Life And to gather them off a straight and thriving tree 't is likelier they will run more up and grow straighter than those which be gathered of Pollards This I know that Nature doth delight very much in Imitation and in Plants and Trees like doth endeavour to produce its like though I know that by the scituation or ground or grafting of some sort of Stocks that by any of these the trees may and will alter something both in growth and largeness of Fruit and earlyer or the contrary but the species will be still the same To which I adde good keeping or dressing of any tree doth much improve its growth and largeness of Fruit or Seeds Now the Seed being that part of the Plant which is endowed
it be about two or three Inches Diameter If you make your hole with an Iron Crow make it big enough that you do not thrust up the Bark when you thrust them into the hole or if you make them with a Stake observe the same but if you fear the Bark to part from the wood tie it about the lower end with a piece of Wier c. set them about one foot and a half deep if great deeper or if you have a quantity to set and would set them well then have an Auger made somewhat like to a Pumps a little bigger than your sets so may you set your sets in and ram the Earth close to them but however you set them be sure to Ramme the Earth close to them I preferre the beginning of Winter for the best season unless your Ground be very wet then deferre it till February But if you have ground that is wet and barren and that you are minded to plant make Dreins two spade-deep and a yard wide and at every two yards asunder cast up the Earth upon the two yards of ground you left and sow it the first year with Oats to mellow the Ground which may pay a good part of your Charge if not all the next Winter set it with these sorts of woods Water-popler and others Alder Willow Withy Sallows c. and in four or five years after you may have a good Fall of wood so may you have every five or six year after for many years To encourage you Esquire Evelin tells you of an Abele that did shoot in one year seventeen foot in length and as thick as your VVrist and also informs you of some VVillowes that have shot no less than twelve foot in one year Therefore to those Gentlemen that have wet or moorish Ground which is bad and will not grase well do I direct this good Husbandry especially where wood is scarce and fells well The Charge to do this will not be great and to satisfie you the more I shall here shew you if you dig two spade deep then there will be but one third part of ground to dig that is to dig your Trenches one yard wide and leave two yards there to lay the Earth and to sow one year or to set the sets as soon as you have made the ground ready 160 Rod in one Acre divided by 3 gives one 3 d. of 160 which is 53 and â…“ This 53 doubled neglecting the â…“ as needless in such a business is 106 Now if I allow 3 d. a Rod for one spade-deep that is 6 d. for two and then 2 d. a Rod for setting is 8 pence the Rod leaving the Sets out and not counting them because I do not know the scarceness or plentifulness of them where you intend to plant though they will cost but little Now if I divide 106 by 2 being 2 Six pences is one Shilling it gives 53 s. and then divide 106 by 6 being 6 Two pences makes One shilling is 17 s. 8. d. By this it appeareth that if the Ground be planted this way having the Trenches digged two foot deep which is the best way to plant any sort of Ground if the soyl be shallow as I shall shew fuller hereafter the Charge excepting the Sets is but 3 l. 10 s. 8 d. where men can dig such ground for 3 d. the Rod. But if the Ground be not very wet or the Soyls surface very shallow then may you dig one yard and leave another throwing half your Earth on one side and half on the other Suppose you were to plant an Acre of Ground this way there will not be half digged especially if the ground be an oblong square but if you count it at half that is 80 Rod which at the same price 3 d. the Rod is 20 s. for if you divide 80 Three-pences by Four the Thirds in a Shilling the Quotient gives 20 then 80 Two-pences for setting is 13 s. 4 d. for if you divide 80 by 6 the Two-pences in one Shilling it gives 13 in the Quotient and 2 over which 2 Two-pences is 4 d. that is then 13 s. 4 d. and 20 s. is one pound 13 s. 4 d. charge Yet as I told you the more oblong the piece is it will cost somewhat the less provided you divide your ground into yards or as near it as you can and leave a yard next the side where you begin and one at the side where you end Having shewed you the Charge or pretty near it and also two wayes how to prepare your ground you may set Truncheons of VVater-popler all sorts of Sallowes Alder VVillowes Oziers c. of Roots Abele Popler and if not too wet Elm Ash c. Let none of these soft woods stand too long unlopt if Pollards or unfelled if Stubs for the Reasons before mentioned Of all the Poplers VVater-popler indures best lopping when great then the Abele the Asp worst when the boughs be great This VVater-popler doth not increase of a Runner as the other doth I suppose this is the same which some call the Black-popler It growes in several places about Ware by their Ditch-sides and brings them good profit and therefore you that have wet grounds get some of this to set by your Ditches one Rowe of this and one of VVillowes for if you set one of these worth a half-penny if they grow they will bring you that yearly for twenty years or more Prune all soft woods at the latter end of VVinter c. CHAP. XXVI Of Raising the Alder. THis Tree may be raised of Truncheons as the other I last writ of some say of Seeds but if you cut them about two foot and a half long and set them two foot in the ground if the ground be proper for them they will certainly grow and yield you good Profit They love a wet moorish ground and will not grow on dry ground they will grow well on your boggy Grounds which seldom yield good Grass Some advise you to fell them every third or fourth year which is good Counsel but do not deferre above five or six years the wounded place will be too great if you stay longer and with wet will grow hollow if it be great before it can overgrow the wound As for soft VVoods or Aquatick Trees fell or lop none till to wards the Spring viz. February is the best Season and the Moon encreasing CHAP. XXVII Of Raising the Withy Willowes Sallow Oziers THE Withy doth best grow on ground that is not very moyst but yet the moysture must not be far from him as on the weeping side of a Hill where some Spring breaks out or on Banks by Rivers or Ditches sides or on Banks in your Moorish ground c. The VVillow loves to grow on such like ground both this and the former are set in such places as the Water-popler is and of such sets as it is to make Pollard trees see the Chapt. before of the Water-popler
his Hedge-Rows c. or his Predecessors But I could and do wish that Owners would encourage their Tenants by allowing them so much Money for every Fruit-tree and so much for every Forrest-tree they plant in their Grounds and look to them well till they be past Cattles spoyling them this would help both the Owner and his Tenant and many a good Tree might be in waste places where now none is this would make the Farm much better and pleasanter and so we might have more plenty of Fruit and Timber and Knowledge in Planting would be greatly improved Now suppose you should plant on good Land and in open Fields you would be no Loser by it As if you should plant Oak Ash or Elm in Pasture-ground at three or four Rod asunder they would do your Land no harm nor would you lose any ground save only just where the Trees stand now it must be a good Tree that takes up one yard square nay the Leaves and Shade may do your Cattel as much good as may countervail the loss of that Land as if your Land be worth 20 s. an Acre that is not a Penny a Yard as here I shall shew 160 Rod square makes an Acre and five yards and a half square is a Rod. You see that in one Rod square there are 30 yards and a quarter for the Decimal Fraction 25 is ¼ of a 100 or thus 5 times 5 is 25 and 5 halfs and 5 halfs make 5 whole Rod and a half and a half make but ¼ which is 30 yards and a quarter Here you see that 4840 the yards in one Acre divided by 12 the Pence in a Shilling gives 403 shillings and 4 remain that is one Acre at a Penny a yard comes to 20 l. 3 s. 4 d. But it may be sixty years before a Tree takes up so much ground then at half that Age it takes up but half so much ground then 60 half-pence is but 2 s. 6 d. and your Tree at that Age and on such Land may be worth 30 s. or more which is Profit and Pleasure c to the Planter But to our business Johnson tells you of some ten sorts of Pines but I know but two or three in England one is common and is raised of the Seed sown in good ground and in the shade in the Month of February If it be frosty put it into Earth or Sand and keep it in the house till the weather be seasonable they will not grow of Cuttings nor Laying well they be bad to be Removed when old because the Roots run far from the Body in few years and if broke or cut off they will not readily break out at sides and ends therefore Remove them young at two or three years old and at the times beforesaid and then you may expect glorious stately Trees None of all our green Trees in England may compare with them Prune them as the Firre They be fine to set round a Garden or Bowling-green for the Leaves will not do any harm Of Firre-trees we have two sorts they be easily Raised of Seeds sown as the Pine one sort will grow of Laying or of Slips set about Bartholomewtide but then you must cut them one Inch or two from the Body and cut that Stump close off the March following and cut all other Boughts that be needfull at that time and you need not fear hurting your Tree though my French Curate be against it The best way to keep them is in Stories about a yard between one another but do not cut their Ends as some doe neither let them grow thick on a heap but if you keep them in Stories they will grow taper and you may take off some when you see Cause and so help them up to a great height and straight as an Arrow for they naturally grow in a good shape Lay the Clogs before the fire and they will gape so may you take out the Seeds the better Pliny calls one sort of Pine the Pinaster Johnsons Herbal pag. 1350. CHAP. XXIX Of Raising the Yew Holly Box Juniper Bayes and Laurel c. THere be a great many more Trees some of which shed their Leaves and some keep them all the year besides those I have spoken of before but these be the most of our Forrest-trees and as for those that doe belong to the Garden I shall not so much as mention them The Yew-tree is produced of Seeds rub the fleshy substance off then dry them and when they be dry put them in sand a little moist in a Pot or Tub let this be done any time before Christmas Keep them in house all Winter and under some North-wall abroad all Summer the Spring come Twelve-month after you put them in Sand sowe them on a Bed the ground not too stiffe keep them clean and prick them out of that Bed into your Nursery when they have stood two or three years there you may bring them to what shape you please It is a fine Tree and worthy to be more increased Holly may be raised of the Berries as the Yew or by Laying it loves a Gravelly-ground as most of our Forrest-greens doe it is a curious Tree for Hedges and will grow under the dropping of great Trees It well deserves your love yet is somewhat ticklish to remove but the best time is before Michaelmas if your Ground be stiffe and cold mix it with Gravel but no Dung. Box the English and Edged c. do grow well of Slips set about the latter end of August or in March It is very pleasant in green Groves and in Wildernesses though it hath a bad smell after Snow Juniper is raised of the Berries it is ticklish to Remove it is a pretty Plant for the aforesaid places the Berries are very wholsome the Wood burnt yields a wholsome and pleasant Persume so doth the Plant in the Spring Bayes is increased plentifully of Suckers or you may raise them of their Berries They love the shade and are fit to be set in green Groves Laurel or Cherry-bay is increased by Cuttings set about Bartholomewtide and in the shade best or by the Cherries It is a glorious Tree for Standards on most Grounds but on our coldest and openest it holds out our hard Winters best It may be kept with a clear stem two or three foot high and let the Head be kept round so that if you have a Row of them the Trees all of a height and bigness and the Heads all of a shape no Tree is more pleasant It is fit for Groves Wildernesses Hedges c. It will grow well on any ground threfore make use of this beautifull Tree The Oak at first doth like a King appear The Laurel now at last brings up the Rear The one does tender Plenty and Renown The other offers Pleasure and a Crown The Elm the usefull Ash and Sycomore Together with the Beech and many more They promise all content to those that look To practise what
the Diameter at the End or by having the side of a square equal to the Base thereof but we having the Circumference which is 72 Inches I shall proceed that way And first by the Rule and Compasses the Circumference being 72 Inches and the Length 696 Inches how many solid feet are there in such a tree As is the standing Number 147 36 To the Circumference 72 Inches So is the Length in Inches 696 To a fourth Number And from that to the Content in feet 166 and near half that Division being so small it cannot well be read on a two-foot Rule Extend the Compasses from the 147 â—6 â—â—0 point to 72 on the left hand keep the Compasses fixed and set one point on the Number 696 the Length in Inches and then turning your Compasses twice from that Number towards the left hand the point will fall upon 166. and near a half the solid Content in feet Or more easily thus As is the standing Number 42. 54. To 72 Inches the Circumference So is 58 foot the Length To a fourth and that fourth to 166 foot and a ½ fore Extend the Compasses from 42. 54 to 72 the Circumference in Inches that Extent will reach from 58 foot the Length to another Number and from that Number to 166 foot and somewhat more but how much more I shall shew you with my Pen and the ordinary way of working though Log. is much easier but some may not have tables or not understand them if they have Now having the Circumference given which is 72 Inches we must find the Diameter and the Rule is As 22 is to 7 so is 72 to 22 91 100 Inches the Diameter near 23 as here it is wrought Or you may do it by two turns of your Compasses Extend your Compasses from 22 to 7 the same Extent will reach from 72. to neer 23 for it wants but 2. of 22 Or if you will have it in more exact terms then Now for the Content of the Head multiply half the Circumference by half the Diameter and it giveth the superficial Content This multiplyed by 696 the Length of the Tree in Inches giveth the solid Content in Inches and that summ divided by 1728 the Inches in a Cubical Foot sheweth you how many foot and parts are in the tree The whole Content in Cube-feet is about 166 and a little more for if you come within ¼ of a foot in such summes as this with the Rule and Compasses 't is well When this Tree was sawn off a little above the Root I told just 72 annual Circles some of them were the greatest that I ever yet saw in any tree and those were about the middle of its Age some three made above one Inch so that the tree then did grow above two Inches in Diameter in three years time but at first and of late for some 6 or 7 years it did increase but little for it was neer at its full growth so that if you multiply 12 the Semi-Diameter for it was 24 Inches at the root-Root-end by 6 it gives you 72 so that it did grow one year with another 2 Inches in 6 year or one Inch in Diameter in three years I do not bring this Tree in for its Greatness but for its quick growth and fine Length of Timber which was helped by its situation it standing in a Valley and set round with many other great trees If this tree had been sold alone it being such a straight Tree and such a tough grane for your great grand Trees are alwayes the toughest to some Pike-maker c. it had been worth 1 s. 6 d. the foot at which price the very timber comes to 09 l. 15 s. 09 d. then the Head and Roots would well pay for the Stocking and making up the wood and make up this summe Ten pound too I do not bring this to compare with Trees that are and have been for the ingenious Author in his Discourse of Forrest-trees pag. 84. tells you of a Tree worth 50 l. as affirmed by Capt. Bullock but I mention it to shew those that love Trees what Profit a thriving tree brings them yearly And I dare affirm that they had better pay Use for Money than cut down a tree that stands in a good place and is in a good thriving Condition therefore if your trees be growing and increase in shoot be not too hasty in felling and when they are decaying it is too late therefore let them not decay too long before you fell them When your Wood is come to the growth you intend to fell at if your Wood be thick of wood then fell the Timber-trees and underwood as close to the ground as you can but if your wood be thin then stock up your trees especially if great timber and the Winter after into these holes where you stocked up the trees set Elm Cherry Popler Sarvice aud Sallow-Cuttings so will these trees which are subject to grow from the running Roots thicken your woods the Roots will pay for the stocking you will save a soot or two of the best of timber and the Roots of other wood will grow the better in the loose ground where you made the holes whereas the old Roots would keep the Ground from nourishing or any from growing there for many years If your Ground be a shallow Soyl do not fill up the holes quite but set in some Running wood the Ground being deep by the hills will make the other wood grow better and the ends of several Roots being cut will shoot forth at the sides of the hole and the holes will receive Seeds which the wind will blow into them and there being weeds to choak them they will grow well For these Reasons I stocked up all the great trees which we felled in our Wood at Cashiobury and I set in an Elm and a Cherry by the sides of the holes and the Spring after there came out of the side-roots of Maple Cherry c. which made good shoots and many Sallows came up in the holes whereby our Woods were very well thicken'd to the Conteut of my ingenious Lord though many people were much against it because it was not used so to be done If your Wood be thin at every felling lay some boughs which are most convenient into the thin places and before next fall you will have them well rooted and good shoots from them A man will doe a great many in one day for which you will be well satisfied in time December and January is the best time to fell Timber but the Oak in April if you would have the Bark when the Moon is decreasing and the wind not East When the Stubs of your under-woods are grown great stock them up This is found to be good Husbandry with us in Hartfordshire which they call Runting their Woods it makes way for Seedlings and young Roots to run the better Do this at felling-time wheresoever you have felled Trees at the Ground When
Example Suppose the Altitude A. B. the Glass or Bole of Water imagine to stand at the prick in the square C. you standing at D. your Eye at E. seeth the top A. in the middle of the square your distance from D. to the middle of the square is 7 foot and a half Your distance from your Eye to the Ground E. D. 5 foot The Distance from the middle of the square to the prick at the foot or base B. is 120 foot See Fig. 11. As 7.5 is to 5 so is 120 to 80 foot or adde a Cypher to the 600 and a Cypher to the 7 foot and ½ and divide as before Thus may you take the heighth exactly To take an Altitude accessible at one station by the Quadrant Suppose A. B. the Altitude as before take your Quadrant and looking through the sights thereof go nearer or further from the Altitude till you see the top at A. through your sights and also that your thred at the same time fall just at the same distance upon 45 degrees of the Limb of the Quadrant then measure the distance upon a level Line from your Eye to the Altitude from the place where you stood and if the Altitude be perpendicular that distance is the height But if it happen so that you cannot take sight at that distance then goe nearer the Altitude till the thred fall upon 63 deg 26 min. in the Limb this distance being doubled and your height from your Eye to the Ground added makes the height of the Altitude if the Ground where you stand be level with the foot of the Altitude if not you must make it level Or if you find it most convenient to take your sight at a greater distance than where the Line or Thred hangs or falls upon 45 degrees then goe to the Complement of the last Examp. of 63 deg 26 till the thred hang upon 26 deg 34 min. in the Limb the distance being measured and the height of your Eye upon a level to the Altitude added makes double the height of the Altitude These Rules be so plain there needs no more Examp. but the larger your Quadrant the better and note that if the ground be not level you must find the Level from your Eye to the foot of the Altitude and also measure the distance upon a level and straight Line alwayes minding to adde what is below the level of your Eye to the distance measured When you take an Altitude make use of two of these Rules the one will confirm the other for the Rules are all true in themselves therefore be you so in working them Thus having shewed you how to take an Altitude by the most usefull Instrument the Quadrant I shall now shew you how to do it by the Doctrine of Triangles And if you would be more satisfied in that most usefull and pleasant study read these Learned mens Works Mr. Bridges Trigonometria Britannica Mr. Gellibrans Trigonometrie Mr. Wings Astronomia Britannica his Geodatus Practicus Mr. Wingates Vse of the Rule of Proportion in Arithmetick and Geometry or Mr. Newtons Trigonometria Britannica pag. 51. whose Rules I shall observe though the Examp. be my own and as before to take the height of a Tree The Angles and one Leg given to find the other in the Rectangular Triangle A. B. C. the Leg B. C. is inquired The Terms of proportion are thus As the Radius To the Leg given So the Tangent of the Angle conterminate with the given Leg To the Leg inquired Illustration by Numbers As the Radius 10.0000000 To the Leg A. B. 80. 1.9030893 So is the Tangent of B. A. C. 45 d. 10.0001515 To the Leg B. C. gives 80 028 1000 1.9032408 See Fig. 12. You see the difference is not the 28 th part of 1000. and it is worth minding how it doth exactly agree with the first Examp. of the Quadrant c. It may be wrought otherwise thus As is the Sign of the Angle opposite to the given Leg To the Sign of the Angle opposite to the Leg inquired So the Leg given To the Leg inquired Or thus As the Tangent of the Angle opposite to the given Leg Is to the Radius So is the Leg given To the Leg inquired Thus have I shew'd you how to take the height of a Tree or any other Altitude several wayes now if you would judge the worth of a Tree standing first take the height to the very top or neer it then take the Height of the Length of Timber so far as your Reason tells you you might measure it if it were down substract the Length of the Timber from the Length of the height of the whole Tree there then remains the Length of the head Thus have you the Length of the Timber and Head Next of all set a Ladder to your Tree and girt it in such place as is most convenient allowing for the Bark then according to the customary way of measuring you may know the Quantity of the Timber and so consequently the worth of the Timber according to the price where the Timber is standing The Timber of the Tree may thus easily and neer to the Quantity be ghessed at The head will be more difficult because of the different Forms they grow in and besides some Timber-trees head much lower than others so that for want of helping up either by their not standing near others to draw or help one another up or for want of pruning up while young they head low and run into great Arms of good lengths of Timber with such Trees you must goe the higher into the Arms accompting them with the Timber as your Reason will best direct you Now then to estimate this head by Rule I do judge that if all the boughs of the head of most Trees were in an intire piece from the place where they were cut off from the Timber to the very top the nearest and I suppose exactest Figure of any would be a Cone or near to a Conical form that the head ends in For we see that when a Tree is headed it breaks out into a great many shoots and as the Tree growes higher in the Lop some of these shoots decay still the more endeavouring to end in the figure of a Conical Body and so the head of your Pollard-trees being greater than the Body is occasioned by the Sap swelling that place endeavouring to break out nearest to where it was accustomed to go up the boughs it searcheth for a passage till it can contain it self no longer and so swells the head This head commonly goeth with the boughs and doth the better help them to be allowed this Form whilest young so that take a tree headed or never headed it still ends in this Figure nearer than any other especially those that never were headed this being then the nearest Figure part of the head can be reduced into this being granted it is as easily measured for if you multiply the