will rise And take heed of beginning too soon with any Buds before they have attained a sufficient strength and growth some will not be fit to Inoculate until August and so all that Month upon some frim sappy stocks That this business may be done to good purpose it must be considered whether the Buds we mean to get are sufficiently grown or not they must not be too young tender and we shall find that some kinds of Trees have buds ready sooner then others As the Aprecott especially and those that shoot strongly Let then the biggest and strongest shoots be cut from the Tree that have grown since the spring to that time and cut off the top of the shoot all those Buds that are too small and tender and also cut off the leaves of the other about a quarter of an inch from the Bud and by that part left we hold the Bud being taken off the branch but leave not on the whole leaf and stalk as some do for the aire by means of the leaf extracts and draws out the sap of the Bud in a short time and so spoils it Then go to the Plants you intend to Inoculate which must be like as to the general kinds with the Buds that you intend to set on as Aprecott-buds and other Plum-buds on Plum-stocks that are wild stocks the white Pearl-plum-stock is accounted the best to Inoculate Aprecott-buds on or other choice Plums it being a Plant full of sap and in chusing Buds or Grafts be sure always to cut them from those kinds that experience shews are good bearing Trees as well as good fruits Now in setting on the Bud first make a cross cut upon some smooth place of the stock if it be for a wall-tree then half a foot or a foot or thereabouts from the ground and from the middle of the cross cut make another straight down about an Inch long only through the Bark and with the end of a Pen-knife raise up the Bark on both sides as much as to let in the small Bud then make hast to prepare the bud for a man must be quick at this work else the Aire by sudden drying the Bud and the cut-part of the stock will much hurt Cut the bark on both side the Bud and about a quarter of an inch above and as much below the Bud let that end which is to be downwards be a little sharp that it may more easily go down between the Bark and wood of the stock and throw away the Bark on the opposite side of the Bud then with a Quill the one half cut away or a Pen of steel made this for the purpose like the one half of â— Goose-quil take off the Bud and Bark by putting it between the Bark and wood and be sure there be the root of the Bud in it if there be a little hole in the middle of the Bud within then the root is not there throw away that bud such will not grow but the Bud being well taken off then hold it by the stalk of the leaf as before was said and put it carefully between the bark and the wood of the small Plant prepared as before and let the top of the bud joyne close to the cross cut in the upper end then bind the bud with a soft Rush or Flag that is strong bind it close to the stock especially in the middle where the Root of the bud lies but not just upon the Bud. After a certain time the Buds must be unbound and some sooner then others some stocks grow more in a week then some others in a month Now if this work be done early in the year before Midsommer upon young stocks very full of sap these may be unbound about twenty days after or a General Rule may be this when a stock is so grown as that the band about the Bud does much straighten the Bud which may be seen by the swelling of the Plant above and below the Buds then the band must be cut and taken off But those that are near the end of Iuly or after will not need unbinding so soon But take heed of making too much hast to unbind buds there 's less danger in suffering them to be long bound then the contrary Now after unbinding you may seâ— which Buds take hold of the stock and which do not those that are good are fast upon the stock and appear in their natural colours as when they were set on those that do not hold will have lost their colour and it may be be withered and dried Such as are good meddle no more till the Spring then cut off the stocks an inch or two above the Buds so the Buds will spring out and grow according to the strength of the stocks And in Autumne after they may be transplanted or if you please such Buds may be transplanted the next Autumne after Inoculating which is the surer way for growing And when these Buds have grown one year or two then cut off the stock close to the Buds and they wâ—ll cover the head as Grafts If Buds be not ready at hand but must be fetcht many Miles in that hot time then sâ—ecâ—al care must be taken in the carriage of them Thus being cut from the Tree cut off the tops of the Branches and the leaves near the Buds as before then bind them together and wrap them in fresh leaves or grass to keep them cool and they will keep good two or three dayes but yet make all the hast that may be to Inoculate them Having Grafted or Inoculated stocks make one Letter or two or write the name of the Fruit at length upon the stock below the Graft or Bud whereby to know the kind of the Fruit and if any be stoâ—len they may thereby be known being found again It 's done with the point of a Pen-knife cutting through the Bark the form of a Letter or any other Figure or Character whereby to know the kinds of fruits And so much for Inoculating Buds of Fruit trees THe choice of right kinds of Grafts and Stocks and the joyning of them together according to their natures is so necessary and some observations about them are so essential to the work of profitable planting that except they be known and practised men loose much of the profit they might have if rightly observed A few special directions in any Art though consisting but of few lines containing â—he Principles and essential parts are better and more to the advancement of the Art then great Volumes upon the same Subject when men as many do rove about upon unnecessary things and strange fancies without any solid grounds beside the life of the business If men miss the Principles and essentials of an Art they discourse of it to little purpose So also in the practise and therefore it has many times fallen out that some men having laboured much and spent much time and cost in
kinds of Mulberry-trees with us in England the Black and the White As for the White I never saw any of its fruit they very seldome bear well with us But the Black Mulberry-tree never failes of fruit after it is grown up These trees are not increased by Grafting or Inoculating but by Cuttings from the Branches or sides of the trees Cut a bow off as big as a mans arme and after cut it in small Truncheons or pieces a yard long or less lay these small and great in the ground a foot deep only the one end out of the ground a hands bredth or two or there abouts in good fat ground somewhat moist and after a year or two didivers young springs may be drawn from the Roots and Planted at a fit distance and the old Roots will yearly send out more also the branches may be bowed down and layd in the earth on one or several sides which will take root and multiply abudantly and be fit to be transplanted Medlers may be grafted and they take well upon a White thorne but I much rather approve the Grafting or Inoculating of them upon Pear-stocks and the fruit will be much better and the trees much larger then upon White-thorne Walnut-trees are propagated from the Nuts which may be set from the time of ripeness until the spring an inch deep or little more and afterwards transplanted and set at a very great distance 24. or 30. yards asunder for they are very large spreading trees But if they are planted on the North or East-sides for shelter then set them nearer Be sure to chuse of the best Nuts to set the fairest Nuts and thinnest shells and good bearers Thus much briefly concerning the best bearing Trees and how they are propagated As for those Fruit-trees which bear but little or no fruits by reason that Grafts and Buds were not chosen from good bearing kinds wherewith they were engrafted I advise by all means to Graft or Inoculate such again though great and old Trees such whose boughs are as big as a mans hand wrist or smaller may be cut off and grafted in the Cleft with a couple of good Grafts of good bearing kinds but such Branches as are very great I should rather cut off a convenient height from the ground slope-wise that no wet may rest on the top and then after a year or two to graft the small shoots or branches that are put forth or some of them this is a better course then to graft such great Branches for that moisture will get into the top and rot the Branches and perhaps the Body too ere the grafts can cover such great heads As concerning Arbors Seats c. in Orchards and Gardens I advise men to make them of Fruit-trees rather then of Privet or other rambling stuffe which yields no profit but onely for shade If you make them of Cherry-trees Plum-trees or the like there will be the same advantage for shade and all the Fruits superadded All that can be objected is that Fruit-trees are longer in growing up then Privet Virgin-Bower or the like whereof Arbors are commonly made It is answered Though Fruit trees are something longer in covering an Arbor then some other things yet they make sufficient amends in their lasting and bearing fruits And besides such Cherry-trees and other kinds may be set about the Arbors as will reach and cover even the first year I Shall now give some Rules concerning Transplanting young plants after a years growth or more whether Inoculated or Grafted The time for this work in general is in Autumne when Trees have done growing and that is divers weeks before the Leaves fall Stay not as the custome is till November or after before you Transplant for the best time is about the latter end of September to begin and so on all the Winter It 's a great advantage to remove plants betime for such grow a while after in their Roots before Winter and thereby not only preserve themselves in Winter but also make some preparation against the Spring which those removed in Winter cannot do Stay not therefore till the Leaves fall ere you remove although they may be remov'd then with good success but it is not so good at that time as before The ancient proverb is If a growing Tree would have Let him carry his green Leaves to his grave Yet notwithstanding those that have many to Transplant and cannot finish or have no leasure in this season which is best they may go on and be doing even all Winter until the very Spring unless Frost shut up the ground And notwithstanding Frost or Snow all the while if we can get into the ground and find the mould mellow so as that it will fall well between and about the Roots it 's then good removing Trees although the best time is to be prefer'd The time of removing being come and the place prepared for setting them again then be careful in taking up the Plants dig round about them and take off the mould from their Roots if it be a small plant it may be drawn up easily the mould being taken away if it be great and the Roots spread much then they may be cut about half a yard from the body of the Plant and the greater it is the further off cut the Roots and so draw it up and break off all the leaves the first thing you do if they be not then fallen off for the Sun and Aire by means of them extract the sap of the branches And here observe That the Great Plants are not alwayes best to transplant out of Nurseries into Orchards though most men are for the greatest when they may chuse and they think the bigger they are the sooner they will make an Orchard but herein they are much mistaken for in removing great trees there is great hazard and many of them fail and die and others grow very poorly putting out only leaves the first year or little more though some few in special good soyle may do well I account young grafted Trees fit to remove when they are about two inches in compass in the body and about a yard and half or two yards high those about this bigness I judge to be better then such as are five or six inches or more in compass with a proportionable height because these cannot possibly be transplanted but their Roots must be cut very much in the taking up and then how can those Roots so much cut be able to nourish so great a body with so many branches whereas young trees of a smaller size as before is mentioned these may be removed even with all their Roots which are young and small and may be spread in the earth every way when set again save onely the ends of the roots must be a little cut and these young and tender roots will sooner shoot forth in the earth then the greater sort especially also because
the body and branches are young and â—ender the bark being thin does more easily extend and enlarg by the rising of the sap then the bark of Elder Trees For which causes young trees when removed do not only grow surer but they also make a larger growth at first planting then the greater and elder Trees can do and are thereore best But if it be so that such large trees must be set then some of the Branches must be cut and say not as many do here 's a fair tree already why should we cut away any part of it But they must be content to loose some of the branches else they are in danger to loose all for removing of great plants is a great check to nature and if a few roots cut short as they must be when removed be put to feed many and large branches they 'l have but slender and poor nourishment not sufficient many times to preserve life much less to make a large growth But if plants be of the lesser size you need not cut the branches except such as cross one another or grow too nigh together or run up two high without spreading but cut off the ends of the roots of all because if cut many small fibra's or strings shoot out at the cut place which draw nourishment for the plant which without cutting would not Plants being thus prepared the next thing is to set them again in the ground take heed of setting below the good soyl The hole for the Plant being digged set in the root prepared as before and cast in the smallest and best mould next to the roots and see that the small mould run between all the roots to that end stir and shake the Plant that there may not be any hollow place where the mould falls not and with your hand draw up the uppermost roots and part them that they may spread in the mould every way and so fill it up The young trees being thus set into the ground and the holes fild up it will be very advantagious to them to lay a Barrow-full of Rotten Muck round about each of them close to the body of the Plant the fatness whereof will soke in among the roots and make the soyle special good whereby the Trees will thrive the better Or else to lay instead thereof store of Weeds Litter Ferne or the like two or three handfulls thick this will keep the roots warm all Winter and moist and cool in the Sommer following and makes the soyle fatter and also preserves the Trees from weeds growing about them Trees thus ordered by laying stuff about their roots may be set very shallow and thereby will be much advantaged and prove better then such as are set deep because in the top of the earth is the best mould and also every shower of rain reaches the Roots and feeds them If the Plants are faire large Plants in danger to be shaken by the winds then knock down a stake close to every one and tye the Plant to it with a hayâ—band or some other soft band If young Trees are to be carried many Miles to be Planted then being taken up carefully lay the Roots all one way the smallest and tenderest in the middle of the bundle and bind them close from the roots to their tops with a soft band and then stuffe the roots round about with straw â—ay moss or the like afterwards bind the bundle all over from the roots to the very top with hay or straw bands or something else to preserve them from brusing and withal wrap something about the Roots a thin Mat or a piece of an old sack-cloth or any thing that will preserve the Roots from the Wind and Sun and from brusing And they may be carried many hundred Miles if need be in Winter without hurt As concerning distance in setting young Trees I conceive 8. or 10. yards is little enough between Apple-trees and Pear-trees in ordinary soyle yet Pear-trees need not be planted so far asunder as Apple-trees And if men have ground enough to plant and good soyle I should rather prescribe to Plant them 14 or 16 yards asunder for both Trees and Fruits have many great advantages if planted a good distance one from another Such are freed from frettings and gallings that happens to Trees that thrust and croud one another whereby not only the Buds Blossomes and Fruits are rub'd and broken off but also sometimes the Canker thereby breeds and destroys boughs and branches Secondly when Trees are planted a fair distance asunder the Sun refreshes every Tree the Roots Body and Branches with the Blossomes and Fruits whereby Trees bring forth more fruits and those fairer and better Thirdly If Apple-trees and Pear-trees are planted at a large distance much profit may be made of the ground under and about the Trees Ye may plant Gooseberries Rasberries Currans Strawberries Roses Flowers and all sorts of Gardenstuffe commodious as well for sale as hous-keeping which cannot be if Trees be planted near together as the custome is in most places the ground being cold and shady by the Trees Besides the Trees would have advantage by frequent digging and stirring the earth about their Roots from time to time in setting these things Fourthly When Trees have room to spread as before they will grow very large and great and the consequences of that will be not only multitudes of Fruits but also long lasting and these two are no small advantages besides all the former And men are mistaken when they say The more Trees in an Orchard the more Fruits for one or two faire large Trees which have room to spread will bear more fruits then six or ten it may be of those that grow near together and crow'd one another Let men but observe aâ—d take notice of some Apple-trees that grow a great distance from other Trees and have room enough to spread both in the Roots and Branches and they shall see that one of those Trees being come to full growth hath a larger head and more boughs and branches then it may be 4 or 6 or more of those which grow near together although of the same age Yea I advise if men have ground enough to Plant Apple-trees 20 yards asunder Now Trees so planted will not reach of a long time if ever therefore much profit may be made of Trees Planted between for many years which may when they begin to reach one another be taken away and disposed of for the best advantage to Plant abroad in the Fields It is a very great and almost a general Errour the Planting of Fruit-trees too near together especially as to Apple-trees and Pear-trees as for standard Cherry-trees Plum-trees and the like they need not be planted half the distance I speak off 5 or 6 yards in distance is usually enough and 7 or 8 yards if the ground be special good for all Trees grow much larger in some soyles then in
after they are grown strong and out of their reach save oâ—ely at those seasons when Fruits are ripe because rubbing against the Treâ—s would shake down the Fruits and spoile them And it were better they did not rub against the Trees at any time for in that respect they may do hurt therefore set stakes or posts about the Trees for the Cattle to rub against whereby the Trees may be preserved Concerning Transplanting Pruning and ordering the Roots of Trees thus much See further Errors in Practise Diseases Incident to Fruit-trees FRuit-trees are subject to divers Diseases Baptist. Port. sayes Affliguntur Plantae omnes veluti Animalia diversis morbis All Trees or Plants are afflicted with divers Diseases as sensible creatures And therefore we should apply our selves to cure them not for pity to the Trees as the indulgent compassionate Manichees but for our own profit I shall at present mention only four diseases that sometimes happen to Fruit-trees Mossiness Bark-bound Canker and Worms Concerning Mossiness of Fruit-trees the way to cure that and other diseases is to take away the Cause sublatâ causâ tollitur effectus if the Spring be stopt the streams cannot runne Some to cure this onely scrape off the Moss not endeavouring to take away the Cause so that in few years they are as bad again that 's but like endeavours for cure of the Tooth-ach or Gout or the like with some outward applications which although they may give some ease for a while yet they strike not at the Root they remove not the Cause and therefore they returne again So that it must be considered what the Cause of Mossiness is sometimes it is caused by over coldness of the ground as in waterish and clay grounds likewise by Barrenness of the soyle If it be Coldness through moysture then use all means to lay it dryer by trenching the ground or if it be clay ground then bring in some warmer soyles to mix with it as Sand Ashes Sheeps-dung Pigeons or Hens-dung or the like If the soyle be too barren then help it by mixture of good soyles round about the Roots But withal take away the Moss that is already upon the Trees in this manner after Raine rub it off with a Hair-cloth else scrape it off with a piece of hard wood in the form of a knife Another is the Bark-bound disease This exceedingly hinders the growth of Trees it makes them live lingringly and poorly This happens when there is but a dull and slow passage up of sap and in small quantity either by reason of barrenness of soyle or want of due culture to the Branches therefore if the soyle be barren it must be mended and likewise some of the branches cut off and the rest scored down all along to the Root through the â—ark on each side with some cross cuts and â—icks in the bark let this be done in the â—pring time and the Sap will arise more â—lentifully Another disease is the Canker natural â—o some but accidentally hapening to others by bruises c. This hurts many â—nd spoils some To cure it cut it out if 〈◊〉 be upon the body or great boughs of â—rees and wash the place with Cow-dung â—nd Urine mixt and then cover the place with clay mixed with Horse-dung and â—ut off the small branches that are dead out withal endeavour to stop the founâ—aine and cause of it being a sharp and viâ—ulent sap by laying Cole ashes or ashes of â—urnt-wood Nettles Ferne and such like vegetables to the roots but if the Trees grow upon gravel ground they 'l hardly be cured without altering the soile in a great measure Some Trees are hurt with small worms that breed between the bark and the wood which cause the Bark in that part to rise â—nd swell sometimes this being perceived the worms must be cut out and the place washed with Urin and Cow-dung Secondly concerning Mischiefs incident to Fruits by Caterpillers Ants Earwigs Snails Wasps Birds and cold and â—trong Winds In the Spring-time Caterpillers breed and devour many buds blossomes and young fruits especially in a dry season of the Dew and Leaves as one says when the East-wind blow's much which causeth that moist and slimy matter to vivifie They breed also as is observed of the Spawn of Butterflies Now how to destroy them I know no better way then to pluck off those leaves which have the Cobwebs made upon them in which they breed and tread them under foot for one of them contains multitudes And for those that escape being upon the Trees some smoake them with straw or such like which makes them fall off They may be destroyed also by squirting water up into the Trees among the boughs which washeth them off Secondly Ants and Pismires hurt fruits multitudes creep up into some Trees and eat the fruits Therefore seek out their hils where they breed and lie and poure in scalding water among them till they be destroyed Yea sometimes they be under or near the roots of Trees and do very great hurt and almost kill some Trees these must be dig'd out and destroyed by hot water or some other way Also anoint the bottom of the Trees near the Root with Tar round about that so these little Thieves may be taken Prisoners by sticking in it Thirdly Fruits growing ripe are sometimes eaten with Ear-wigs One way to destroy them is by setting Oxe-hoofs Canes or any hollow thing near the Roots of the Trees and among the Boughs upon the ends of sticks and they 'l creep in and lie there then take off these hoofs quickly and shake them into a boule of water or crush them with your foot upon the ground These Creatures do most mischiefe to Wall-trees especially upon old walls Pick them off betime in the morning and destroy them But if you keep the wall well pointed with lime that they have no harbour there and the Roots clean from weeds you 'l not be much troubled with them To keep them from some choice Trees and Fruits strew ashes round about Another mischief incident to fruit is by Wasps and Hornets sometimes some find out their nests and are so bold as to destroy them there by scalding water or some other way Another way to destroy them is by hanging Earthen Pots half full of water in Trees dawbed in the innerside with hony they will leave the fruits and fall to the honey and having suckt of it they fall into the water and perish This way destroyes multitudes Birds also spoile buds and fruits the Bulfinch and Lennet in the Winter time and Spring eat up multitudes of buds of Cherry-trees Aprecot-trees and Plum-trees which are prepared for blossoms and fruits and being ripe they peck and eat many you may destroy them by setting Lime-twigs with baits in the Trees and kill some with a Cross-bow and hang them in the Trees And Clack-Mills may be set in
a Chimny where fire is much kept the same will bud and bear very early in the year especially if the wall be of brick and but a thin wall Digging and loosening the earth about the Roots of Trees accelerate Germination This culture is undoubtedly a benefit to Trees as to their increase and growth they will thrive the faster hereby but I conceive not as to accelerate Germination to hasten early budding for all Trees bad forth before they draw one jot of Sap out of the earth in the Spring there is Sap existing in the buds and branches all the Winter which is excited by the Sunnes drawing near in the Spring time and breaketh forth into blossome and leaf and by degrees Sap riseth to carry on springing and growth A Damask-Rose-tree in water budded in the space of ten days in a Chamber I conceive this Acceleration was not for that is was set in water but because the air was somewhat warmer in the house then out of dores at that season it being in October it would have done as much if it had been set in earth And as for the difference betwixt this and that with the Horse-dung mixed it may be that Rose-tree in water onely had the better and more Roots which would certainly cause budding sooner A Dutch Flower that had a bulbous Root was put under water and within seven days sprouted c. I have tryed several Flowers with Bulbous Roots and other kinds of Roots in water in the house in Autumne which kept fresh and seemed to come on somewhat for a while but afterwards flag'd and faded I know no advantage that may be had hereby at that season for the Aire in a while grows chil and cool even within dores and so puts a stop to growth in all vegetables If Roots or Pease c. may be accelerated in their coming a double profit may be made in some strong grounds you shall have Radish c. in a Month. Pease Radish c. are hastened in the Spring and Sommer and their returns quick chiefly because they are sowed and set in a warm place upon ground sloping upon the South-East Sun with some special shelters from the North and cold Winds For Nourishment water is almost all in all therefore it is a comfortable Experiment for good drinkers Simply water affords but a feeble and weak nourishment crude and cold and therefore we see that in low watrish grounds fruit-trees come on poorly being full of Moss by reason of the cold nourishment and that in dryer deep fat soyls Fruit-trees are three or four times bigger and consequently longer liv'd then those in waterish grounds Neither is this a comfortable experiment for good drinkers but the quite contrary for Experience shews us such as live most upon good Liquors eating but little are more unsound unhealthy people and short lived then those who drink less and feed upon solid meats Housing of Plants will accelerate Germination Certainly it will if the Plants be ordered with discretion to be seasonably set out in the Sunne and Rain in the warmest seasons and time of the day removing the Box of earth in and out as occasion is or otherwise Housing may spoil them and cause the branches and twigs to contract and become dry for as the Aire within dores is warmer then that without so also it is drier and does exhaust and dry the Plants more therefore they have need sometimes of the moist Aire without Experiments touching the putting back or Retardation of Germination TO make Roses come late First cut them after bearing This may be a means as to some Rose-trees that is such as are old I have known some of long standing perhaps a dozen sixteen or twenty years of age and some of seven or eight years cut newly after bearing have born Roses again a second time late in the year being cut the next full Moon after they have done bearing but there is a kind I have amongst many other kinds which naturally bears a second time although the tree be but small and young besides the Rose called the Monthly Rose Secondly Pulling off the buds of the Roses that first spring forth I have tried this second way which succeeded not it may be because the Trees were young but one affirmed he pluckt off some buds in the spring and the Tree bore Roses in November Thirdly Cutting top Boughs in the Spring This hath been tried also but was ineffectual but the Tryal was upon young Trees as for the Report that followes in this Experiment of Sions perishing if the old top boughs be cut off it is otherwise for it is a common Experiment to cut off all the boughs of a Tree and to graft them and the grafts will not onely not perish but grow the better therefore as having all the Sap to themselves which naturally riseth the Sun also drawing it up without the help of any top bough lefâ— as continual Experience shews Fourthly Laying the Roots bare about the end of December Many hundreds of Trees are thus bared yet I find no difference at all in the late budding or bearing of such trees from others Fifthly Removing the Tree some Months before it buddeth It is true indeed removing of Trees especially so late in the year must needs retard Germination if they bud at all commonly such faile or grow very poorly Sixthly Crafting Roses in May. I know one that tried this Experiment Inoculating not Grafting Buds in the Spring which badded for Roses at the same time that others of the same kind did which buds being cut off they bore Roses afterwards the same year when others of the same kind were gone Seventhly Girding the body of the Tree with some Packthread This will not do it neither we see commonly that Grafts tied strait with strong flags and some branches of Wall-trees nailed straight to the Wall so that I have seen the back dinted in with the straitness of the Leather and bands yet for all that Sap riseth plentifully through the place so girded up into the branch and buds are as forward on that branch as on any other Eightly Planting them in the shade I have known Rose-trees in a shady place which have not bore at all it 's a tree that loves the Sun So this Experiment will not hold I have tried it and it succeeds not Experiments touching the Melioration of Fruits Trees and Plants AN heap of Flint or Stone laid about the bottome of a Tree upon the first Planting makes it prosper much Stones laid to the Roots of Fruit-trees when newly set is a good Experiment in some grounds but not in all it 's true stones so laid keep the Root of the Tree somewhat more moist and warm and stedy that winds shake it not and so are profitable but there