Bridg I will not trouble the Reader with the several opinions that men have about it only that it has been observed by several others as well as my self that sometimes it will pass contrary at the one side to the other and this commonly on a Southerly wind The next Island we come to in rank to the East is ANDROS This keeps its name being called by the Turks Endros The Inhabitants are all Greeks having a good large Town to the NEt. with no other walls but those of their houses which join together At the end of the lanes are Gates which every night are shut to keep out the Privateers In the Mountains are several small Villages which are built so convenient as they can see an Enemy long before he comes so they have time to hide themselves and the best of their goods in places made by their Industry in the Rocks Upon the whole Island there are not above 3000 Inhabitants They have a great many Mulberry trees and some years make above 10000 pound of Silk They agree at Constantinople for about 10000 Dollars yearly tho it stands them in above 12000 besides what the Privateers steal from them Corn and Wine are here very plentifull but their main stock is raised from Silk and Cattle with the latter and other provisions they supply Tine There are several good Harbours for small Vessels but only one for ships which is to the SEt. TINE formerly called TENOS And by the Turks Stendill lyes to the SEt. of Andros being about 70 miles in compass and the highest land of any of the Islands in the Archipelago It is under the Venetian Government and withstood the Turks all the warrs notwithstanding they landed their Army several times In the year 1658. the Captain Basha came to a Port to the Nh. called La Colebitre when in the night he landed 6000 men hoping to surprize them But the vigilant Islanders soon fled from their habitations and betook themselves to the Castle surrounding the hill under the great Gunns The Proveditore dispatcht away a Felucca to acquaint the Captain General at Argentiero and the Turks finding they could not take the Castle destroyed the Country burnt the houses and carryed away about 10 slaves The Castle stands on a high rock on the top of the Mountain It is much higher than any other part of the Island so as it may be discerned at both sides of the Island Upon any occasion of rejoycing Fires were made upon the top of the Castle which have been seen at the Island of Scio. The Inhabitants are most Greeks but these the greatest part are Roman Catholicks who have here a Bishop His Palace is at a place called Campos to the NWt. of the Castle distant from it about 3 miles There are above thirty Villages upon this Island and above 20000 souls Those of the Greek Religion are to the Eastward end of the Island having many pleasant Villages though seated among Rocks Tine hath but one Port which is secure for shipping It lyes in the strait of Andros called Palermo But the Road where the ships usually come to unload is called St. Niccolo about 6 miles South from the Castle to the East is St. Zuanni a small Port for Boats. To the North is another called La Cullebithra This Island has ever been a great Eye-sore to the Turks In the late Warr of Candia several Brigantines were mann'd out of this place which did continually torment the Turks in all their Quarters A famous Privateer called Georgio Maria was a terror to all the sea-Towns about the Archipelago He was of Corsica of a good Family He came into the service of the Venetians with a small Briganteen called the Lepetto or little Fox his success was so great that he built at Bagnio a place for slaves made square to the East of the City on the hill in which was an account of upwards 4000 that he had brought out of Turky into slavery of which he gave the tenth to the Generall From a small Vessel he came to command a squadron of three ships and Eleven Briganteens I will not give you an account at large of his several Victories if I should it would swell my Narrative to too great a Volume I will therefore only give you a Relation of his Death In the year 1667 Georgio Maria had been very succesful against the Turks carrying away whole Towns at a time so as complaint was carryed from all parts to Constantinople where his name was in every sea-faring-mans mouth The Captain Basha had particular orders to search for him and being at Scio advice was brought him that Georgio Maria with his little Armado was at the Islands in the Bay of Edremitt The Person who brought the news had a Gratuity order'd him and immediatly all things were order'd for departure but the Basha only and the man that brought the news did know for what place they were going There was in Port at Scio 36 Gallys and six ships of Tripoli The Captain Basha sent orders to the ships to be ready to sayle with his Gallys There being little wind the Gallys towed the ships till they were past the Island of Scio and drawing neare the Island Metelino with a small gale they sayled close by Molives The Sentinells on the Islands made fires to give notice to Georgio Maria and soon came themselves with the news that the Turkish fleet was coming towards those Islands Georgio Maria easily believed it and in a little time provided himself notwithstanding he was before getting ready to carine his ship With the help of his Briganteens he gets his ships out to the North of the Islands ordering the Briganteens to shift for themselves taking his last farewell of them The Fight was very sharp above 6 hours Georgio Maria was kill'd and his body thrown over board as he had desired his friends to do that it might not come into the hands of the Turks his ship was taken another was sunk and the third made its escape into the Bay of Smyrna and so to Tine Of the Turks were killed and wounded above two thousand of which in the Tripoly ships above 300. In the ship where Georgio Maria was of 200 men not above 20 were taken alive and those most of them wounded After this Victory the Captain Basha went to Constantinople towing up the ship in great Triumph at his Gallys Stern as he past the Serraglio point No man since Scanderbeigh has been so great a plague to the Turks His loss was generally lamented by the Venetians but especially by those of this Island whom he very much inriched He was made a Knight of St. Mark for the good service he had done the Venetians against the Turks The Inhabitants of Tine are better to pass than any other of the Islanders paying only their tenths to the Venetians They make great quantitys of Silk and Wine but have not corn nor wood to subsist a month being supplyed from
they were called back so as now they make Laws and are Judges amongst themselves But the Grand Signors revenues must be yearly paid which amounts to above 30000 dollars that is pole mony and tenths which is easy to what was pretended Here are delicate fruits of all sorts peaches the largest I ever saw also the Winter grapes in very large bunches some weighing 10 pounds SCHIATI Lyes to the North of Scopelo it was formerly called Schiatus Here is a very strong Castle on a rock having a Draw-bridge and other necessarys for its defence It withstood the Venetians a long time but was at last forced to yeild and pay a tribute both to them and the Turks The Island is very Mountainous not being so fruitful as Scopelo nor so well inhabited There are several other Islands here which lye almost at the entrance into the Gulph of Salonico they are very little inhabited and of no great note CALOJERO Lyes between Andros and Scio the greatest part of which about 30 years ago was blown up and the Inhabitants destroyed I have heard several Merchants at Smyrna say that there at Smyrna most of their plate and mony was turned blackish when the Island was blown up And many of the Stones were cast upon the Islands of Tine and Andros A very small part of the Island is now remaining IPSARA Is a small Island which lyes to the West of Scio very poorely inhabited It hath a safe Port. Its West side secured with a small Island lying before it At the entrance from the North there runs a ridg of rocks from the great Island almost halfe a mile into the Sea being about 16 Foot under water Upon these Rocks the ship Plymouth stuck fast having aboard her the Rt. Honorable the Earl of Winchelsea a true relation of which follows In the year 1660 his Lordship imbarqued on the Plymouth on an Embassy from His Majesty of Great Brittain to the Grand Signior and about the end of December arrived at Smyrna where his Lordship tarryed till January the 6. When he imbarqued again for his Voyage to Canstantinople So soon as his Lordship was aboard they set saile with the wind at East sailing towards the Castle which is about three Leagues from Smyrna it fell calme then they came to anchor and tarryed all night having in their company the ship Smyrna-Factor and a Ketch the latter waited upon the man of Warr. Next morning being the 7th the wind at S E t 't was a fine gale they weighed anchor the weather promising them a speedy passage but the wind veering to the N E t with a strong gale they weathered Caraborun standing for the Island of Metelino intending to spend the night under the Lee of that Island in smooth water bringing their ship under a Maine-Course All that night the wind increased every hour more and more so that in the morning it was a most violent Storme the Sea in a breach the sky very black and thick and the Sun lowring and red which were the undoubted Indications of its continuance The Spray of the Sea was so forcibly carried by the wind over the ship that the Masts yards and Decks were querned with the white salt This extremity of weather made them think of some Port to secure themselves The Island of Ipsara lying about 8 Leagues distant S by with from Metelino it was supposed by the Master a safe place with this wind to spend the fury of the Storm in so they put her before it with fore-saile down and main-saile in the brailes but the wind soon blew away their fore-saile like paper and in bringing another to the yard it had the misfortune to be foule of the flook of the anchor and soon became as unserviceable as the other Being thus deprived of their commanding sailes they loosed their sprit-saile and set their mainecourse Steering in between the greater and lesser Islands the ship had swift way being shott within the Northermost point and luffing too near the great Island on a suddain she stuck fast on a Rock which astonished them with a strange amazement the poor ship knocked five several times to cleare her self from a total Wrack and ruine They all began to despaire of her and with cast up eyes and stretched out armes thought now of no other but their last and final Port. But in the midst of this horrid consternation and distress it pleased God who was their best Pilot to bring the ship off and to all their appearances without the least damage an escape so wonderful and miraculous on the 8th day of January as it ought to be ever recorded to Admiration by all that were partakers in the danger and an Anniversary thanksgiving be made to God for his Providence over and Protection of them When they were in this distress they fired a Gun to give warning to the Smyrna-Factor and Ketch who thereupon stood away for Milo. The storme continued all that day so that with two anchors down the sheat anchor being one they had much ado to secure the ship fast the Storm continuing so very violent The 10th the wind abated and the 14th it veered about to the S with so they sailed towards the Dardanelle the 15th they got to Tenedos about 8 in the morning and about 3 in the afternoon entred the old Castles From the new Castles a boat came off in which was a messenger to acquaint his Lordship that the Vizier had sent orders that free passage should be granted his Lordship and his attendance with the ship without any hindrance or molestation From the old Castles came off a Boat in which were some Janizaries Druggermen or Inter preters belonging to St Tho. Bendish that brought letters to his Lordship On the 17th it being 3 Months since his Lordship imbarqued in England they came to anchor neare the 7 Towers till such time as St Tho. Bendish had notice then weighed anchor and stood for the Port. Some time before a Bostangee one belonging to the Grand Signiors Garden came aboard pretending to be sent from the Bostangee Basha to know what ship it was of so great Equipage and Burthen also telling them that the Grand Signior was seated on the corner of the wall of the Serraglio With a fresh gale of wind they had all their colours abroad with all their Guns and wastclothes out Being almost opposit to the Serraglio Point the said Bustangee went aboard again telling them that it was the Grand Signors pleasure that they should rejoyce with Guns which was his expression upon which they fired six Guns and came to an anchor at Toppanna when St Tho. Bendish came aboard to congratulate his Lordships arrival his Lordship the next day being the 18th was received ashore and indeed with that great state and handsom Equipage that no Ambassador from England France or Germany ever passed in with more honour or wonder of the Multitude Where we will leave his Lordship and come back with the
have writ at large so that I shall omit a repetition This Island by the Inhabitants is now called Stalimene TENEDOS or TENEDO Lyes to the East of Lemnos about 12 miles from the Entrance into the Hellespont or Dardanelli The Turks call it Bosh Adasi the Barren Island It is most rocky and to the No. is a high round Mountain under which is the main Castle standing close to the Sea being almost a square That part towards the Sea has high walls and two Roundells Even with the Water is a battery of 20 very great Guns On the South point of the Port is a Castle built on a rising ground in which are about 10 Guns This Castle commands the Harbour more than the great Castle and can batter the Town and Castle About a furlong to the South-West stands the Town most inhabited by Greeks in it there are several stately Fountains built with white Marble brought from the Ruins of Troy. This Island was most valiantly won from the Turks by the Venetian Fleet under the conduct of General Marco Bembo and afterwards betray'd to the Turks by one of the Family of Loridanno who was Governor since which none of that name have had any command in the Repubick's service nor dare he ever return to his own Country THASSUS SAMANDRACHI and IMBRO Are three small Islands the first lyes about 30 miles from the mouth of the River Nester Samandrachi opposite to the River Marizza and Imbro about 10 miles to the West of the entrance into the Hellespont which by the continual coming of Privateers are almost quite forsaken not having above two or three Villages in each METELINO Is the largest Island on the Asian shoar Formerly it was called Lesbos and was estem'd the only store-house for corn for the City of Constantinople now it is very little inhabited Here is plenty of Deere and several other Game They have a sort of horses less than any I have seen elsewhere but strong and swift The Country affords store of Pasture all sorts of Provisior are very plentifull From hence we have considerable quantity of Oysters brought to Smyrna The wine is none of the best The City under the same name is to the Eastward having a delicate Port before it There are the ruins of a large Arsenal To the N Et. of the Town stands a very strong Castle called Mullives built on a Rock which is a Peninsula 't is very well fortified according to the ancient way The walls are very high they have 4 Towers a dry ditch with another low wall about it and a draw-bridge there is but that one way to enter into the Castle Here is continually a good Garrison kept At the Arsenal is another Fort which is level with the water where are several very large Guns On the N with part of the Island is another strong Castle called Petra which hath a very good Port. There is a considerable Town most inhabited by Greeks who trade over to the main now called Cos-dogg but formerly the Mountains of Ida for the Turks who inhabit those Mountains are such great robbers that none dare live amongst them and to travel that way is almost as dangerous as to be amongst the Banditi in Calabria Here is another good Harbour for ships called Siguri at the Wt. end of the Island but no Town or Village nearer to it than Petra There are several other Ports and Creeks which are often haunted by the Privateers To the N Et. are several Islands which are called the Spalmadori which signifies Cariners for here often the Privateers do come to Carine and are in the way to meet Vessels that are bound to Constantinople The Inhabitants of Metelino are not above 10000 Turks and 20000 Greeks SCIO formerly call'd CHIOS Is not inferiour to the best Island in the Archipelago tho' it is not so large as Negro Ponte it is much the richer and the Inhabitants injoy greater privileges than any Greeks in the Grand Signiors Dominions and more liberty cannot be in any part than what they injoy In the Summer time every evening the marine is full with all sorts of people with musick singing and dancing and none offer to molest them At their Festivals they are very open in their Worship The chief City has the name of the Island being very well built after the manner of the Genouese It is above two miles in Circumference To the North stands a very strong Castle and both are seated to the Eastward close to the Sea side Formerly there was a good Mole which shelter'd ships from the N Et. winds and to the Southward another point runs out upon which stood a light-house They are both now gon to ruine and the Harbour is dangerous in Stormy weather At each side of the City are abundance of pleasant gardens abounding with all sorts of fruit Coming in from Sea these Gardens and Summer-houses do give a most delightsome prospect the houses being for the most part very well built with their windows red and green The Inhabitants are most Greeks of which many are of the Church of Rome Here are several good Churches which remaine since the time the Genoueses had possession of the Island as that of the Jesuites the Dominicans and the Capucines the two former are in the City the latter is at the North Westend where they have a large Convent with pleasant gardens In the time of Holy days they carry their processions in the streets without any molestation but it must be after Sun set The same have I seen in Smyrna on Good Friday by the Greeks and also at Galatta of Constantinople The Vizier Cupri Ogle at his return from Candy tarried here several days and lodg'd in the house of one Signior Dominico Mascardi which joyns to the Capucines Convent one day asking what bell it was that he heard one told him it was some bells of Mules sayes the Vizier to him that made that answer and you are an Asse for endeavouring to make me believe so This is some bell to call you to prayers and be not ashamed to enjoy the freedom which is given you He was several times in the garden and commended their way of living Before the Vizier came order was given by the Elders to forbid the womens walking the Streets as their custom was fearing least some souldiers should abuse them and so occasion a disorder The Vizier having been two or three days in town and not finding the divertisement he expected from what he had been told he asked what was the reason it was told him that fearing some disturbance might be orders were given to forbid the women to walk the streets The Vizier made answer That seeing they had such priviledges they should enjoy them while he was there otherwise he would recall the Liberty they had Next morning the streets were full with all sorts and in the Evening by the Sea-side singing and dancing most part of the nights The Turks hold the Sciotes
abundance of Cyprus trees Bonifacia stands on a rising ground having only the Walls of a Castle The Inhabitants are most Greeks very poor here is a Metropolitan who pretends to be next to the Arch-Bishop of Candia There are two Italian Churches the dores are made up with Walls to keep Cattle from going in The Greeks have four small Churches but one will contain more then all the Inhabitants They have now new named the place calling it Malafacia instead of Bonifaci good Face it being so much alter'd from what it was in former time From Bonifacia to the Labarinth is about 10 miles or three hours riding with most a plain Several men have several opinions about this building if I may call it so But one Signior Venetando who was born in a neighbouring Village gives this account that a certain King of this Island had so great a hatred for all women that he order'd this place for his Court and at last lived so private that he would not suffer any to come to him but such as ruled in his stead He would seldome come out but to worship at a Temple dedicated to Jupiter which stood close by it In this Labarinth he ended his days and had a famous Tombe built for him the ruins of which they shew you The Labarinth is above two miles about being so covered on the top with earth as it seems to be all of firm land we entred it with two torches and candles in Lanthornes having a line to direct us out again The way is plain under foot and archt over head some arches being about 10 foot high some more some less with several windings I made it my business to observe if there was any thing of a building in the pillars or sides but found it most an entire stone which they told me so cemented together that indeed it appeared so Here are a great many small places about 4 foot long 2 broad and 2 over which were for burying places There are abundance of batts which hang in clusters some are larger than ordinary We endeavoured to fright them scorching their wings by which we found there was life in them their sleep is observ'd to be much more sound with a No. wind than with a So. wind as the spring comes on they leave their palace We had almost ended our line being about 100 pikes which is above 80 yards and then returned out being a good hour in the Labarinth The damps are very great against rain it is always dropping but very dry with Northerly winds At the end is a lake and they tell you that some have attempted to go to it and have been drawn into it Our curiosity did not invite us to see it for were it not true as in probability 't is not the noisom smells are enough to stifle one To the South and close by is a small Village with two Churches which seem to have been Temples To the S with about 10 miles distant is that famous and great Mountain called Psillo Vuona formerly Mount Ida at 4 of the Clock it casts a shadow on the Labarinth on it are many pleasant Monasteries with Groves of Cypress trees and abundance of Fountains Some say the Coast of Barbary may be seen from the top From the Labarinth to Candia is about 10 hours riding most in a plain till within 10 miles of the City At the right hand about a mile from the road is a most stately Monastery dedicated to our blessed Saviour which was built by order of the Emperor Constantine the Great It hath always been continued to the Greeks and kept its splendor till the late Warr when it was much defaced There are abundance of Monasterys but very poor and some are shut up for want of Priests Candia Novo is about 6 miles from the City of Candia Southward being a strong Castle having Mount Jove to the West Here the Turks kept their Treasure and Ammunition in the Siege of Candia It is seated very pleasantly on a rising ground giving a prospect to the Sea. It is now chiefly inhabited by Greeks the Castle has a Garrison of Turks which the Basha intended to bring to Candia and demolish the Castle having writ to the Port about it but he had no answer Candia so famous and generally known for the brave defence it made against the Turk appears by the ruins to have been one of the best built Citys in the midd-land Seas It is seated on the North side of the Island almost midd-way between Canea and Sittia in a pleasant Bay having an artificial Port secured from the N o wind by a Mole about 200 yards long with a strong and large Castle at the head called Castel del Molo having 20 great Guns From the South is a low point of land which runs into the Sea No. which secures it from the Easterly wind 's and makes the entrance not above 30 yards wide upon this point of land the Turks have built a cover'd way with a very thick wall full of holes for small shot strongly arch't over reaching from the Arsenal to the entrance into the Port where is a small Fort with 4 great Guns also very strongly arch't over so as no Bomb can offend it At the right hand at coming out of the Gate to the Mole is a new Fort built with 4 very great Guns which lye level with the water over them are 8 smaller Guns This Fort is opposite to the mouth of the Port and is arch't over to prevent danger from Bombs or wild fire On the Mole are several great Guns planted with arches over them To the East of the Arsenal is the old Castle called La Battaria del Arsenal which is rebuilt with a ditch round it to bring in the Sea most cut out of a firm Rock The Port is almost round and secure against any wind for Gallys and smaller Vessels but there is not water enough for ships of any considerable bigness It is fill'd very much with the rubbish that the rains carryed into it from the City and would certainly have been choakt up in a few years had it not been for a French Merchant one Monsieur Dudei who to ingratiate himself with the Basha caused an Engine to be brought from Marselle to cleanse it There are the ruins of 12 Arches of the Arsenal and about 6 Arches are yet entire but they use them only to work in when the Gallys are there No Gallys having been built here The City is not repair'd towards the land where the Walls are so much shaken that it will require a great deal of time and cost to fortify them From the Port towards the West upon the Wall are 50 large Guns planted The Fort of St Andrea at the N. Wt. of the City is well repaired having a double wall towards the Sea. In all there are about 400 Guns planted on the Walls and out-works which are 6 miles in circumference The Gates of Candia are the best
I ever saw the Arch or Gate-house being about 100 yards long and the Gates 10 broad the Arch is all built of firm stone It will take up three hours to walk round the out-works There are several mines which were never blown up Every mine had a distinct name I was in one mine which was above a mile in length being about 6 foot high and three broad All the plain for above two miles without the Walls is like a new plow'd field where you cannot walk but must see pieces of dead mens bones None are permitted to walk round the works but such as have a Licence and a Janizary with them The Turks take a delight to give an account of the strength of the place and especially will shew you a small Cave or arch where the Venetian General did use to sleep as they tell you to secure himself from the Bombs Not above one eighth part of the houses that formerly were are now inhabited very few being left entire nor do the Turks repair any but those where they dwell the chief Mosque is well repair'd it was formerly a Church dedicated to St Mark and stands to the E t of the great Piazza to the South of it are part of the Walls of old Candia close to which are built up a row of houses two storie high for the Janizaries The Basha's Pallace is a little below the great Mosque on the other side of the way opposite to it is the great Hall formerly called La Sala di Consiglio which is a very stately building of white Marble with several works in Basso Relievo to the S Et. of it stands the Church of St Francisco with an entire Cloyster which is a Mosque The street from the Mole to the chief Piazza is in good repair being broad and pav'd with an even stone the houses are also well inhabited But that part towards the Wt. is a heap of ruins amongst which live the Jews who have very large houses but some of their upper rooms have no other shelter from the weather but a few matts made fast upon poles The beams of the old houses are bought up and carryed to Venice Zante and other places and being made of Cyprus wood they serve to make chests and cabinets many of which have been brought to England The number of the Inhabitants of the City is not reckoned to be above 10000 with Greeks and Jews There is a continual Garrison of 2000 Janizaries besides the Basha's guardes Since the taking the place they have granted liberty to all who will come to inhabit there but all their incouragement cannot bring the Candiotes to dwell there Formerly the Plain was full of Olive trees with delightsom pleasure-houses and gardens Now nothing but ruins are to be seen The City stands on a rising ground from the Sea. The houses were so built with tarrazzis as most from the tops could have a sight of the Sea. From Candia to Rettimo is about 12 hours riding The City stands on a point of land very pleasantly having a Port to the East which is almost choakt up so as no Gally can get over the barr being laden but Brigantines and smaller Vessels are very secure against all winds Towards the Sea are no Walls the Rocks there fortifying the place so as an Enemy can only come by land This place was the first the Turks made themselves Masters of putting all to the Sword to give the greater terror to the rest of the Island Since they possest it they have built three new Forts towards the Sea and a wall with a dry Ditch to landward It is now chiefly inhabited by Turks who trade to Constantinople considerably The houses are here intire according to the Venetian manner of building There are some Greeks that dwel in the City but they have a small town about a quarter of a mile off where are 2 Churches where they have free exercise of their Religion The Country hereabout is very pleasant full of Olive trees and from the Sea side the land rises easily to the foot of the Mountains of Sfacia about 8 miles from the City which from the Sea seems to be all a wood from which Mountains run several pleasant streames and one very large river called Platonico which is continually full being supplyed from above a thousand Fountains which the Mountains produce These Mountains of Sfacia are abounding in all things necessary for life and nothing can be more delightsom in the Summer time They reach near 30 miles towards the S Wt. in length and in some places about 10 in breadth coming down close to the Bay of Suda The Cheese which is made here is bought up by the Venetians and other Merchants and transported to France Italy Zante c. It is the best Cheese that is made in any of the Southern parts and generally as good as our Cheshire Cheeses being made as bigg Besides which they have great store of Honey Wax Silk Wool Cordovan-Leather and a sort of goats Hair little inferior to that of Angura in Asia No Olives Oranges or Lemons grow here There are above 100 Villages on these Mountains besides several Monasteries The Inhabitants are a Warr-like People and withstood the Turks above 20 years after Rettimo was taken living as the Mainiotes in the Morea There are such difficult passages to them that an army cannot march Now at last they are brought into obedience and by humbling themselves to the Vizier he granted them great privileges to incourage them least they should take part with the Venetians who have the Island of Suda so near them As the Vizier past by in his way from Canea to Candia they brought him several presents which the Mountains produced which he was so well pleased with that he exempted them from going with him and paying their attendance on him only he obliged them to furnish the Camp with mutton at a certain rate Most of his own provision was carryed from hence Sheep at three timins about a shilling a piece butter at a timine the oke a groat for two pound 8 ounces Cheese at the same rate and at this price they were obliged to carry it as far as the Camp before Candia where an officer gave them an acquittance which was abated them out of their tribute They have a certain Drugg called by the Venetian Oldani much of the colour of Liquorish in balls it is a very great conforter of the head having a pleasant smell being burnt it gives a very pleasant sent Most of this is bought up by the Venetians and sent to Venice Here is also a sort of wood which the Greeks call Platte iksillo it burns like a torch gives a most fragrant smell much of it was used to burn at the Siege Every night at the Viziers and other great mens tents they had fires of this wood the wood being cut small and put into an Iron grate at the end of a pole fastned in the ground If
a man be hot in the plain in riding two or three hours up the hills he shall find so great an alteration in the air as is incredible About 15 miles from Retimo is a lovely Fountain called Bognare Bashe standing so between two mountains that at 2 in the afternoon it is shady continuing so all the rest of the day The water is so cold as will cause a dew upon any fruit that is put into it and be one never so hot to drink of this water it will do him no harm In the Summer time here are always some persons of Quality who bring their beds and continue for several days together The Sfacioti are a healthy strong and stout people they pretend to be of a very Ancient Stock some there are who derive their family from before the coming of our Saviour I saw a Callojero that was 110 years of age he was very lusty and could walk very well with a staff Part of these hills are under the Jurisdiction of the Bishop of Retimo and part under that of Canea From Retimo to Canea the Road is most by the Sea side passing by the Bay of Suda having the mountains of Sfacia on the left hand Canea is seated in a fine plain about 3 miles from the bottom of the Bay of Suda and upon the Sea to the North having a very fair harbour which may be called a double Port the one being round the other stretching away to the Eastward where are two Arsenals It is secure against the worst of weathers The entrance is narrow and not above 18 foot water To the West of which the Turks have built a new battery with 20 very large Guns and above it to the South is a great Cittadel in which are 40 good Guns To the East of the Entrance is another great Castle which commands the part called the Sabioniera with the Arsenal Round about the Port is a broad key which is always full with merchandize and is little inferior to the Port at Marseilles The houses are all very well built and not much batter'd The Walls are in very good repair having a dry ditch about 30 yards broad and 6 deep from the land on the other side The Walls are about 30 foot high within them the earth is raised about 10 foot higher than the Walls there being a walk between There is a mount which they call the Marteningo where formerly were 10 Guns but now it is of no use Toward the land there are 4 Bastions To the South is the great gate called La Porti di Retimo To the West is a mace placed on the Wall to shew where a Basha at the taking of the place first enter'd the City before the Gate is a half moon built of earth about 20 foot high at each end is a small Pyramid of mortar and sculls which are the sculls of Christians who were slain before the place in the year 1666. The Venetians then attempting to regain the place under the conduct of Marquis Vila a Savojard 5000 men were landed at Culatte at the bottom of the Bay of Suda and were encamped before the City several days The Turks sallyed out of the City to the Wt. surprizing the Christians and had a very great victory pursuing them to the Fort which was built at the bottom of the Bay. In this flight there were above 1500 killed and several taken Prisoners amongst the latter was one Captain Scot a Scotch-man who had his hand upon the draw-bridg of the City he was carryed afterwards to Smyrna in the Gally's and there redeem'd by the English Merchants but when he came to Venice his arrears were paid him and he returned his ransom to Smyrna which remain'd in bank till another like occasion should present it self The City is near three miles in circumference and is much better Inhabited than Candia having a Basha and other officers as in Candia only in all Councils the other hath the precedence The Country about is very pleasant being all a plain for above 6 miles to the South and West planted with young Olive trees so that it seems to be a Garden It is well supply'd both with Flesh and Fish of the latter there is great store for besides the Sea there is a Lake about 10 miles to the South which furnishes them with great variety of all sorts The trade is much greater here than at Candia it lying so convenient for the Morea Italy and other places The French have a great trade for oyl wools wax cheese and several other commodities having a Consul and two Merchants The Venetians have also a Consul but most of their oyl is shipped off from Suda to which place it is brought from Retimo and other places thereabout All great ships come to an anchor at a place called St Todoro being 2 small Isletts about 5 miles to the West of the Port of Canea there is very good anchorage and a small Fort to defend them On one Island notwithstanding it seems to be all stone and is very low there are several Fountains of water No Greeks live within the City They have a new town built to the South about half a mile off where are two long streets very commodious and here they injoy all the liberty they desire their Churches are open and the Bishop hath a very pleasant house living in good Esteem Close to this town runs a pleasant River which is seldom dry There are likewise several pleasant gardens well stock't with all sorts of delicious fruits The Turks have also some gardens here but they must retire into the City an hour before Sun set winter and summer or else must remain out all night the gates being then shut and a strict watch kept about the Walls The Turks of this place are generally very rich and incline to trade giving all encouragement to have Merchants come and reside amongst them There was an English merchant here one Mr Trenchard who was recommended to the French Consul to have his assistance but in a little time he grew weary of the place Here they keep their oyl in great Vessels called Tini which are square and made of wood some will hold 20 Tunns They have a special regard to preserve the esteem of their oyl nor will they force a merchant to take any longer than it comes clear not mixing the bottoms as in some parts they will by taking a hollow cane and putting it to the bottom by blowing through which they raise the foot of the oyl so that thick and thin goes together Here they sell the Foot of the oyl at an under price and this serves to make sope Most parts of Turky have an Esteem for Canea oyl above others Some will have it to be the better for that the trees are all so young others impute it to their care in the making for here they gather all their Olives whereas in the Morea they thrash them down with poles The wines are
About noon the wind veered to the Wt. blowing so hard that we were forced to hand our Courses low sailes and drive with the Sea every sea washing over us It pleased God about midd-night the wind came to the N Wt. so as we lay our head towards Silly and next morning found the Island on our Lee so made saile with our fore-saile and past between Silly and the main and after all our great daingers Blessed be God the 13th of February we got safe into Plymouth Sound and immediatly all the Passengers got ashoar where upon our bended knees we acknowledged the great deliverance which we received Here we had the news that the President we mentioned which we met and relieved at sea was forc't ashoar in the Storm we were in the 10th in Mounts-Bay and of 80 persons only 2 sav'd they were so weak for want of provision as they could not hand their Saile The woman with Child hired a horse with a paire of panniers in each she put a Child her self riding between them and got safe to London where in less then a Week she was delivered of a Boy What is remarkable more is to consider the great cold which was this year over all these Seas and the many Shipwrecks which happened The sea had a continual passage over us so as our Deck was covered with a green Many a time and hour have I stood pumping with nothing but a Coat over my Shirt and a pair of drawers that the Seas have washed me to the Wast so was it with the rest of the Passengers who were able to pump and not one who was troubled with cough or cold notwithstaning we were several times wet in the places where we slept Oh what tongue can express the loving kindness and the tender Mercys of our Good God to the Children of men Therefore to him alone from whom alone cometh all our help and comfort be ascribed all Honour and Glory World without end Amen Distance of Places from Constantinople to London  Leagues FRom Constantinople to the entrance of the Hellespont 50 To the Straight of Andros 70 To Cerico 60 To C. Mattapan 23 To Zante 60 To the Guardiani at Cefalonia 14 To C. Spartiventa on Calabria 75 To Messina 14 To Stromboli 11 To Pontia 60 To M Argentato 41 To Elba 14 To Legorn 15 To Genova 30 To C. St Martine 194 To Alicant 15 To C. Palos 16 To C. de Gatta 30  792  534  In all 1326 Leagues To Malaga 42 To Gibraltar 22 To Tangier 9 To Cadiz 20 To C. St Maria 32 To C. St Vincent or the Southern C. 18 To Silly 270 To the Lizard 16 To Plymouth 14 To the Start 7 To Portland 12 To Portsmouth 13 To Beachy 18 To Dyngeness 8 To South Foreland 8 To the Downs 2 To London 23  534 An INDEX shewing the Longitude and Latitude of the places mentioned in the Map of Greece for the easier finding them out p. shews the page C. the Capes or head-Lands P. the Ports or Harbours M. Mountains A  Long. Lat. ACro Corinthus 43 36 Adrianopoli 47 42 Aiton 41 37 Alamama ol Thorone 44 40 Alessia ol Lissus 39 41 Albanopoli 40 40 Alsson 42 39 Alona 49 33 Ambracie 40 38 Amphipolis 44 41 Antivais ol Antibarum and Dioclia 38 41 Antipatris 40 40 Antipachsu 39 38 Antigon 42 41 Andruzza 42 35 Antimilo 46 35 Andros p. 7. 47 37 Antiparos p. 23. 47 36 Aprobo 47 41 Apolonia 44 41 Arcadia ol Cyparissa 41 35 Armiro ol Larissa 43 38 Argos 43 36 Arch built by the Trojans now Tattar Bazar 44 42 Argentiero p. 34 47 35 Argostol 39 36 Astos 41 38 Asera 43 41 Aspro Spitti ol Chaleos 43 37 Aspri Spiro 42 36 Athens 44 37 Ayasman ol Elaea 50 39 B BAgao 42 42 Bazar 43 42 Basilico 43 36 Bajatzel 46 42 Barbasti 49 42 Bambara 50 41 Bakhair 50 39 Bazarkui 51 42 Ballat ol Meletus where St. Paul called the Elders of the Church Act. 20.17 51 37 La Bastia 39 39 Balachi 52 38 Bergus 49 42 Belguir 48 42 Belvari 43 43 Belgrado in Alban 39 39 Biston Lake 46 41 Bodna 42 40 Bodza 43 42 Bojon 44 39 Bognarbashe 53 35 Bodrou 50 36 Bosphorus of Thrace 51 43 Bonavara 50 38 Bonifacia p. 77. 48 33 Brendike 47 41 Brindice ol Brundisium 36 40 Budoa ol Butva and Buthoe 37 41 Butintro ol Buthrotas 39 39 Bulgarkui 48 41 Bursa ol Prusa 52 41 Bylaz 42 41 C CAstel novo in Albania 37 42 Cast novo in Candia 47 33 Catazzo 38 42 Cataro ol Afcrivium 38 42 C Linguetto 38 39 C. Colonne hath its name from the pillars of a Temple which are here intire 45 36 C. Schilli ol Scyllaeum 45 36 C. Mattapan ol Tenaria 43 34 C. St Anzolo ol Mallea 45 35 C. Deucato 39 37 C. Sidero ol Cynosura 39 36 C. St Maria ol Japygium 37 39 C. Crio ol Xili 51 36 C. Salamon ol Samonium 50 33 C. St Giovanni ol Frons Arietis 49 34 C. Sassoso ol Dion 47 34 C. Melech ol Drepanum 46 34 C. Spada ol Cyamum 45 34 Casopo 38 38 Castle Tornese ol Chelonatos 40 36 Castles at the entrance into the Gulph of Lepanto 41 36 Caminiz 41 36 Cardica 43 38 Cakoa Ruins of a large City supposed to be Thespiae lying at the foot of M. Helicon dedicated to the Muses In the year 1674 I was here in company with Monsieur Girand Sr Giles Eastcourt and Mr Francis Vernon There are the entire Walls of 12 Temples and the Foundation of a large Castle To the South is a great Rock in which several Rooms are cut which have places about 8 foot long 2 broad and one deep all cut out of the same Rock and are supposed to have been burying places Some Rooms have 6 partitions some more some less 43 37 Cavalla alias Bucephalus the latter name was given it by Alexander and was the Port for his Navy formerly it was called Chalastra Here are many fair and entire Cisterns Upon the top of the hill near the Town are vast walls which are supposed to have been the bounds of Macedon and Thrace It was one of the Keys of Macedon Here is a most stately and large Aquaeduct built by the Macedonian Kings and lately restored much for the better by one Ibrahim Basha 45 41 Castel Rosso ol Caristus and Gerastus 46 37 Camizana 46 42 Candia ol Crete p. 69. 48 34 Canea ol Cydon p. 88. 46 33 Calamata ol Thurium 43 35 Caliva 46 33 Capsa 48 42 Calojero p. 59. 47 37 Casurin 44 40 Casura 44 40 Cassandria 44 40 Canistra ol Pallone 44 39 Callipoli 48 41 Candia City p. 80. 48 33 Candia Nova p. 80. 48 33 Carustaran 49 42 Caraborun 49 38 Casal 43 41 Calcedon 51 43 Camera 51 47 Carchi 51 35 Cassio p. 30. 51 34 Caramusal 52 32 Carabusa p. 94. 44 43 Carave 45 35 Cesalonia 39 36 Cerigo ol Cythero