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A68252 The strange and dangerous voyage of Captaine Thomas Iames, in his intended discouery of the Northwest Passage into the South Sea VVherein the miseries indured both going, wintering, returning; and the rarities obserued, both philosophicall and mathematicall, are related in this iournall of it. Published by his Maiesties command. To which are added, a plat or card for the sayling in those seas. Diuers little tables of the author's, of the variation of the compasse, &c. VVith an appendix concerning longitude, by Master Henry Gellibrand astronomy reader of Gresham Colledge in London. And an aduise concerning the philosophy of these late discouereyes, by W.W. James, Thomas, 1593?-1635?; Gellibrand, Henry, 1597-1636.; W. W. (William Watts), fl. 1633. 1633 (1633) STC 14444; ESTC S109089 103,433 150

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Digges Iland and Nottinghams Iland not being able to get more Northward There for an houre or two we had some open water But before I proceed further it were not amisse in some manner to describe the Straight which begins at the Iland of Resolution and ends here at Digges Iland If you goe downe into the Bay the Straight is about 120. leagues long and trends W. N. W. and E. S. E. generally In the entrance it is about 15. leagues broad and then on the Southward side is a great Bay About the middest it is likewise about 15. leagues broad and then the Land opens something wider so that betwixt Digges Iland and Cape Charles it is about 20. leagues broad Betwixt which two stands Salisbury Iland and Nottingham Iland If it be cleere weather you may see both the South and the North shoares ordinarily the depth in the middle of the Straight is 120. faddomes white sand A certaine tyde runnes in it and no Current The North shoare is the straightest and the cleerest from Ice too Alongst the North shoare you haue many low small Ilands which cannot be seene farre off from the land and in many places the land makes as if it had small sounds into it The Maine land on both sides is indifferent high land And so much for discourse may suffice referring you to the Plot for the particulars Being now resolued of the impossibilitie to doe any thing to the North-westward for the reasons aforesaid I gaue order to the Master of my Ship to Steere away W. S. W. to haue a sight of Mansfeilds Iland which the next day by three a clocke in the after-noone we had hauing had so much dangerous foule weather amongst the Ice that we strooke more fearefull blowes against it then we had euer yet done This was the first day that wee went to halfe allowance of bread Flesh dayes and I ordered things as sparingly as I could Two of our men complaine likewise of sickenesse but soone afterward recouered In the euening wee came to an Anker and I sent the Boate ashoare to try the tydes They brought mee word that whilest the Boat was ashoare it flowed about some three foote and as wee found by the Ship and by the Ice the water at that time came from the W. S. W. and that the highest tydes so farre as they could perceiue it had not highed aboue two faddome They found that the Saluages had beene vpon it by certaine fires which they found and heapes of stones Tracks of other beasts but Foxes they could not finde The winde was so contrary and the weather so foggie that wee were faine to spend some powder to recouer our Boate againe Next morning being the 17. the winde came something fauourable and wee wayed The shoare being something cleere of Ice though very thicke all to the Offing wee stood alongst it S. and S. by W. some 10. leagues In the after-noone the winde came contrary and we came againe to an Anker within a mile of the shoare for to Sea-boord was all thicke Ice and vnpassable I went ashoare my selfe to be resolued of the tyde and found whilest I was a shoare that it did flow two foote and at that time the flood came from the S. W. by W. I doubted it was an halfe tyde which afterwards I found to be true I found where the Saluages had beene vpon the Iland but could see little or no drift wood on the shoare no beasts on the Iland nor fishes in the Sea It flowes on the change day about a eleuen a clocke We saw some fowle on it of which we killed one and returned aboord This Iland is very low land little higher then a dry sand-banke It hath Ponds vpon it of fresh water but no grasse and is vtterly barren of all goodnesse The 18. in the morning the winde came something fauourable and we weyed and came to Sayle for the Ice was all comne about vs. We endeauoured to proceed to the Westward intending to fall with the Westerne land about the Latitude 63. 00. By twelue a clocke hauing beene much pestered we were comne to a firme range of Ice but it pleased God that the winde larged and wee stowed away S. S. W. At noone in Lat. 62. 00. by 4. in the euening hauing scaped dangerous blowes wee were come as wee thought into an open Sea and ioyfully steered away West and W. by N. although that Ioy was soone quayled By ten at night we heard the rut of the Ice and it grew a thicke fogge and very darke with it neuerthelesse we proceeded and the neerer we came to it the more hideous noyse it made By three in the morning the 19. we were come to it and as it did cleere a little we could see the Ice which were as thicke rands of Ice as any we had yet seene These being vnpassable and moreouer the winde at N. W. we stowed alongst it hoping to weather it to the Southward but at last we became so blinded with fogge and so incompassed with Ice that we could goe no further The 20. in the morning notwithstanding the fogge we endeauoured to get to the Westward our Ship beating and knocking all this while most fearefully In this wilfulnesse we continued till the 21 when being fast amongst the Ice I obserued we were in Lat. 60. 33. and then looking what damage our Ship might haue receiued we could perceiue that below the plate of Iron which was before her Cut-water shee was all bruised and broken the two knees she had before to strengthen her spoyled and torne and many other defects which we could not by any meanes come to mend Notwithstanding all this and the extraordinary thicke fogge that we could not see a Pistoll shot about vs we proceeded with the hazzard of all Till the 27 which was the frist time we had cleere weather to looke about vs The winde withall came vp at South and the Ice did open something so that we made some way thorow it to the Westward In the euening we were fast againe and could goe no further the winde veering from the South to the East and blowing a fresh gale This occasioned our griefes the more that with a good winde wee could not goe forward putting therefore a Hawser vpon a piece of great Ice to keepe the Ship close to it we patiently expected for better fortune Since we came from Mansfields Iland our depth was commonly 110. and 100. fad oozye ground Now the water begins to showlde for this present 27. driuing fast to and againe in the Ice we haue but 80. fad ground as before The 28. and 29. we were so fast inclosed in the Ice that notwithstanding we put abroad all the sayle that was at yards and that it blew a very hard gale of winde the Ship stirred no more then if shee had beene in a dry Docke Hereupon we went all boldly out vpon the Ice to sport
Cape Farewell being still pestered with much Ice The ninth we were in Lat. 59. 00. and we made account the Cape Farewell bare of vs due East and some ten leagues off The Blaskes in Ireland is in Lat. 52. 4. and Cape Farewell in Lat. 59. 00. The course is West North-west and the distance about 410. leagues I know very well these Latitudes courses and distance doe not exactly agree with Mathematicall conclusions but thus we found it by practice The variation of the Compasse in Lat. 52. 30. and 30. leagues to the Westward of Ireland is about 3. 00. to the Eastward in Lat. 57. 00. about 310. leagues West North-west from the Blaskes the Compasse doth vary 9. 00. to the West-ward in Lat. 59. 15. some 40 leagues to the East-ward of Cape Farewell the variation is about 14. 45. In this course I haue bin obseruant whether there were any Currant that did set to the N. E. as some haue written there did and that as well in Calme weather as other-wayes But I could not perceiue any The windes here are variable and the Sea of an vnsearchable depth We haue not seene from Ireland hitherto any Whales or other Fish The weather for the most part was foggie and mistie that wets as bad as raine The tenth all the morning was very foule weather and a high-growne Sea although we had Ice not farre off about vs and some pieces as high as our Top-mast-head Our long Boate which we were faine to Towe at Sterne by reason we were building our Shallop on our Decks broke away and put vs to some trouble to recouer her againe This we did and made meanes to haue her into the Ship though very much bruised and that I had two men sore hurt and like to be lost in the hauing of her in By eight a clocke this euening we were shot vp as high as Cape Desolation for finding here the Land to trend away North and by East we certainly knew it to be the Cape It stands in Lat. 60. 00. and the Land from Cape Farewell to it trends N. W. the distance about 40. leagues The distance from Cape Desolation to the South end of the Iland of Resolution is about 140. leagues the course West halfe a point North. The Lat. of the South end of the Iland being 61. 20. some 12. leagues to the Westward of Cape Desolation the variation is 16. 00. In this course we were much tormented pestered and beaten with the Ice many pieces being higher then our Top-mast-head In our way we saw many Grampusses amongst the Ice and it seemeth the Sea is full of them The weather for the most part a stinking fogge and the Sea very blacke which I conceiue to be occasioned by reason of the fogge The seuenteenth at night we heard the rutt of the shoare as we thought but it prooued to be the rutt against a banke of Ice that lay on the shoare It made a hollow and a hideous noyse like an ouer-fall of water which made vs to reason amongst our selues concerning it for we were not able to see about vs it being darke night and foggie We stood off from it till breake of day then in againe and about 4. a clocke in the morning wee saw the Land aboue the fogge which we knew to be the Iland of Resolution This last night was so cold that all our Rigging and Sayles were frozen Wee endeauoured to compasse about the Southern point of the Iland for that we were so much pestered with the Ice and blinded with a very thicke fogge Here runnes a quicke tyde into the Straight but the ebbe is as strong as the flood The fogge was of such a piercing nature that it spoiled all our Compasses and made them flagge and so heauy withall that they would not trauerse Wherefore I would aduise any that shall Sayle this way hereafter to prouide Compasses of Muscouia Glasse or some other matter that will endure the moisture of the weather As the fogge cleered vp we could see the entrance of the Straight to be all full of Ice close thronged together Indeauouring to goe forward wee were fast inclosed amongst it and so droue to and againe with it finding no ground at 230. fad 4. leagues from the shoare The twentieth in the morning we had got about the Southerne point of the Iland and the winde came vp at West and droue both vs and the Ice vpon the shoare When we were driuen within two leagues of the shoare we came amongst the most strangest whirlings of the Sea that possibly can bee conceiued There were diuers great pieces of Ice a-ground in 40. fad water and the ebbe comming out of the broken grounds of the Iland amongst these Iles of Ice made such a distractiō that we were carryed round sometimes close by the Rocks sometimes close by those high pieces that we were afeard they would fall vpon vs. We were so beaten likewise with the encountering of the Ice that we were in a most desperate estate We made fast two great pieces of Ice to our sides with our Kedger and Grapnels that drew 9. or 10. fad that so they might be a-ground before vs if so be we were driuen on the shoare But that designe fayled vs and now from the top seeing in amongst the Rocks I sent the Boate for now wee had finished her to see if shee could finde some place of securitie but shee was no sooner parted but shee was inclosed and driuen to hale vp on the Ice or else shee had beene crushed to pieces They ranne her ouer the Ice from piece to piece and in the meane space with the whirling and incountring of the Ice the two pieces brake away from our sides and carryed away our Kedger and Grapnels Then we made signes to the Boate to make all the haste shee could to vs which shee perceiuing did the men being with much difficultie inforced to hale her ouer many pieces of Ice In the meane space we made some Sayle and got to that piece of Ice that had our Grapnell on it which wee againe recouered By this time was our Boate come and We put afresh Crue into her and sent her to fetch our Kedger which shee endeauoured with much danger of Beate and Men. By this time the Ship was driuen so neere the shoare that we could see the Rocks vnder vs and about vs and we should be carryed with the whirlings of the waters close by the points of Rocks and then round about backe againe and all this notwithstanding the Sayle we had abroad that wee expected continually when shee would be beaten to pieces In this extremitie I made them to open more Sayle and to force her in amongst the Rocks and broken grounds and where there was many great pieces of Ice aground We went ouer Rocks that had but 12. or 13. foot water on them and so let fall an Anker This Anker had neuer bin able to winde vp the
forementioned piece of Ice brake with a terrible noyse into foure pieces which made me doubtfull it had not spoyled the Ship it being full halfe mast high I made what haste I could to the boate and so to the Ship to be satisfied where I found all well God be thanked for that the Ice had broken from the Ship-ward I instantly sent away the boate to sound the way to a Coue that I had found which was a very dangerous passage for the boate At her returne we vn-moord the Ship and with what speede possible warpt away from amongst this terrible Ice We were not a mile from them but they brake all to pieces and would surely haue made vs beare them company but that God was more mercifull vnto vs. We got about the Rocks and so into this little Coue which I had so newly discouered Here we made fast to the Rockes and thought our selues in indifferent safety which being done I went ashoare againe to wander vp and downe to see what I could discouer I found it all broken Rockie grounds and not so much as a tree herbe or grasse vpon it Some Ponds of water there were in it which were not yet thawed and therefore not ready for the fowle We found not in the snow any footing of Deere or Beares but Foxes we saw one or two We found where the Saluages had beene but it was long since They had made fiue hearths and we found a few firebrands about them and some heads of Foxes and bones of Foxes with some Whale-bones I could not conceiue to what purpose they should come thither for we could finde none or very little wood on the shoares side and no fish at all though we did dayly indeauour to take some But it may be the season was not yet come I named this Coue by the Masters name of my Ship Prices Coue. The Latitude of it is 61. 24. the Variation The firebrands and chips which I spake of had beene cut with some hatchet or other good instrument of iron from the top of the hills we could see the Ilands that are on the South shore and commonly called Sir Thomas Buttons Iles They did beare South and by East halfe a point Easterly some 14. or 15 leagues distant vpon the change day it flowes here seuen a clocke and a halfe and the tyde highest at most three fad The flood comes from the Eastwards and thither it returnes I haue beene obseruant from the top of the hills whence I might descry the great pieces of Ice 2. or 3. leagues from the shoare driue to and againe with the flood and ebbe indifferently Hence I collected that assuredly there is no currant sets in here but that it is a meere tyde Neere the shoare the eddies whitle into twenty manners when the ebbe is made which is because it comes out of the broken ground amongst the Ice that is aground neere the shoare Besides which reason there be diuers Rockes lying vnder water on which you shall haue now 30. then 12. and anon but 8. and then 20. fad And these vncertainties occasion such distractions I would therefore aduise none to come too neere those dangerous shoares for feare hee lose his ship and so by consequence all The last night we tooke better rest then we had done in tenne nights before And this morning being the 24. there sprung vp a faire gale of wind at East and after prayer we vnfastened our Ship and came to saile steering betwixt great pieces of Ice that were a-ground in 40. fad and twice as high as our top-mast head Wee went forth of this Coue vpon the flood and had none of those whirlings of the waters as we had at our going into it We indeauoured to gaine the North shoare kept our selues within a league of the shoare of the Iland of Resolution where we had some cleere water to saile thorow In the Offing it was all thicke throngd together as might be possible By 12. a clocke we were fast inclosed and notwithstanding it blew very hard at East yet we could make no way through it but the hard corners of the Ice did grate vs with that violence as I verily thought it would haue grated the plankes from the Ships sides Thus we continued in torment till the day driuing to and againe in the Ice not being able to see an acre of sea from top-mast head This 26. was calme Sun-shine weather and we tooke the Latitude Variation The Latitude is the Variation we sounded and had ground at 140. fad small white sand I caused the men to lay out some fishing lines but to no purpose for I could not perceiue that baite had beene so much as touched The nights are very cold so that our rigging freezes and the fresh ponds of water stand vpon the Ice aboue halfe an inch thicke The 27. there sprung vp a little gale at South-East and the Ice did something open Hereupon we let fall our foresayle and forced the Ship thorow the throng of Ice In the Euening the winde came contrary at W. N. W. and blew hard which caused vs to fasten to a great piece to which we remained moord till the 29. I am resolued that here is no currant and that by many experiments which I haue made Namely by taking markes on the land and noting our drift to and againe with the ebbe and flood for many dayes together as well in calme weather as otherwayes By all these experiments I found exactly that the tide was no stronger there then that betwixt England and France This morning there sprung vp a fine gale at E. and the Ice did open something so that we did force the Ship thorow it with her fore-saile By 12. a clocke we were gotten into some open water with a fine gale of wind at East and so cleere weather that we could see the Iland of Resolution The North end did beare of vs E. N. E. some 12. leagues off From this 29. till the 5. of Iuly wee sayled continually thorow the Ice with variable winds and fogges and sometimes calme The 5. at noone we had a good obseruation and were in Latitude 63. 15. and then wee saw Salisbury Iland bearing W. by N. some 7. leagues off with much Ice betwixt it and vs to weather which we were driuen to stand to the Northward Soone after we saw Prince Charles his Cape and Mill Iland and to the North-north-west and in deed round about vs the Sea most infinitely pestered with Ice This did grieue mee very much for whereas I had determined to prosecute the discouery to the North-westward I saw it was not possible this yeere Wee were moreouer driuen back againe with contrary windes still closed and pestered with Ice and with all the perils and dangers incident to such aduentures so that we thought a thousand times that the Ship had bin beaten to pieces By the fifteenth day of Iuly we were got betwixt
before the Currants making a foole of our best iudgements in the thicke fogge when we could see no land-marks It pleased God that we got cleere of them and endeauoured to get vnder the Lee of the Iland This being not able to doe wee were faine to come to an Anker in 35. fadd some two leagues off the shoare All this afternoone and indeed all night too it did snow and hayle and was very cold The 25. wee weyed and thought to get to the Eastward but as wee tackt to and againe the winde shifted so in our teeths that it put vs within a quarter of a mile of the very shoare where we chopt to an Anker and rid it out for life and death Such miseries as these we indured amongst these shoalds and broken grounds or rather more desperate then I haue related very vnpleasant perchance to be read with snow haile and stormy weather and colder then euer I felt it in England in my life Our shoote-Anker was downe twice or thrice a day which extreme paines made a great part of the company sickly All this lasted with vs vntill the 30. of this moneth of September which we thought would haue put an end to our miseries for now we were driuen amongst rocks shoalds ouer-falles and breaches round about vs that which way to turne we knew not but there ride amongst them in extremitie of distresse All these perils made a most hideous and terrible noyse in the night season and I hope it will not be accounted ridiculous if I relate with what meditations I was affected now and then amongst my ordinary prayers which I here affoord the Reader as I there conceiued them in these few ragged and teared Rimes OH my poore soule why doest thou grieue to see So many Deaths muster to murther mee Looke to thy selfe regard not mee for I Must doe for what I came performe or die So thou mayst free thy selfe from being in A dung-hill dungeon A meere sinke of sinne And happily be free'd if thou beleeue Truly in God through Christ and euer liue Be therefore glad yet ere thou goe from hence For our ioynt sinnes let 's doe some penitence Vnfainedly together When we part I le wish the Angels Ioy with all my heart We haue with confidence relyde vpon A rustie wyre toucht with a little Stone Incompast round with paper and alasse To house it harmelesse nothing but a glasse And thought to shun a thousand dangers by The blind direction of this senselesse flye When the fierce winds shatter'd blacke nights asunder Whose pitchie clouds spitting forth fire and thunder Hath shooke the earth and made the Ocean roare And runne to hide it in the broken shoare Now thou must Steere by faith a better guide 'T will bring thee safe to heauen against the tyde Of Satans malice Now let quiet gales Of sauing grace inspire thy zealous sayles The first of October was indifferent faire weather and with a windward tyde out went our Boate to sound a channell to help vs out of this perilous place The Boat within two houres shee returned and told vs how shee had beene away where there was not lesse then 12. fadd We presently thereupon weyed but found it otherwise and came amongst many strange races and ouer-falles vpon which there went a very great and breaking Sea As we proceeded the water shoalded to 6. fadd Well! there was no remedy we must goe forward happy be luckie seeing there neither was any riding and as little hope to turne any way with a sayle but that there appeared present death in it It pleased God so to direct vs that we got thorow it hauing no less then fiue seuerall and all very vncertaine depths The water sometimes deepened to 20. fadd then vpon a sudden it shoalded to 7. 6. and 5. faddomes so we strooke all our sayles amaine and chopt to an Anker where wee rid till midnight for life and death it blowing a mercilesse gale of winde and the Sea going very loftie and all in a breach The ground was foule ground too insomuch that wee doubted our Cable euery minute The second in the morning was little winde wherefore taking the opportunitie of the tyde the Boate went forth to sound which returning againe in two houres told vs how they had sounded about that shoald and had found a place of some safetie to ride in and had beene in no lesse water then fiue faddome We weyed and found our Cable galled in two places which had soone failed vs if the foule weather had continued We stood the same way that the Boat did direct vs but it prooued so calme that wee came to an Anker in 18. faddome I tooke the Boate and went ashoare on an Iland that was to the Southward of vs which I named The Earle of Danbyes Iland From the highest place in it I could see it all broken grounds and shoalds to the Southward and rather worse then any thing better then that which we had beene in I found that the Saluages had beene vpon it and that it was full of wood I made haste to the Boate to sound the Baye for feare of shoalds and sunken Rockes but found it indifferent good Toward the Euening it began to blow hard wherefore we made towards the Ship She put forth a Buoy and a warpe and we rowing for life to recouer her were put to Lee-ward of her but by getting hold of the warpe we halde vp to her The boate we left halfe full of water our selues being as wet as drown'd rats and it made vs the more reioyce that we had escapt this great danger All night we had a very hard rode-steede it blowing a most violent gale of wind with snow and haile The third about noone the wind duld and we had vp our Anker standing in further into the Baye into foure fad and a halfe water Here we came againe to an Anker with our second Anker for many of our men are now sicke and the rest so weakened that we can hardly way our shoote-Anchor I tooke the Boate and went presently ashoare to see what comfort I could find This was the first time that I put foote on this Iland which was the same that we did after winter vpon I found the tracks of Deere and saw some Fowle but that that did reioyce me most was that I did see an opening into the Land as if it had beene a riuer To it we make with all speede but found it to be barr'd and not 2. foote water at full sea on the Barre and yet within a most excellent fine Harbour hauing 4. fad water In the Euening I return'd aboord bringing little comfort for our sicke men more then hopes The 4. it did snow and blow very hard yet I got ashoare and appointed the boate to goe to another place which made like a Riuer and to sound it In the meane time I went with foure more some 4. or 5. miles vp
not be gotten vp to staue them Then to quoile all our Cables vpon our lower tyre and to lay on our spare Ankers and any thing that was weighty to keepe it downe from rising By seuen a Clocke it blew a storme at North-West our bitter enemy The Ship was already bedded some two foote in the sand and whilst that was a flowing shee must beate This I before had in my consideration for I thought she was so farre driuen vp that we should neuer get her off Yet we had bin so ferrited by her last beating that I resolued to sinke her right downe rather then runne that hazzard By nine a cloke she began to rowle in her docke with a most extraordinary great Sea that was come which I found to be occasioned by the formentioned ouerfall And this was the fatall houre that put vs to our wits end Wherefore I went downe in hold with the Carpenter and tooke his auger and board a hole in the Ship and let in the water Thus with all speed we began to cut out other places to boare thorow but euery place was full of nailes By tenne notwithstanding the lower tyre was couered with water for all which she began so to beate in her docke more and more that we could not worke nor stand to doe any thing in her Nor would she sinke so fast as we would haue her but continued beating double blowes first abaft and then before that it was wonderfull how she could indure a quarter of an houre with it By twelue a clocke her lower Tyre rose and that did so counter-beate on the inside that it beat the bulke heads of the Bread-roome powder-roome and fore piece all to pieces and when it came betwixt deckes the chests fled wildly about and the water did flash and flie wonderfully so that now we expected euery minute when the Ship would open and breake to pieces At one a clocke shee beat off her Rudder and that was gone we knew not which way Thus shee continued beating till three a clocke and then the Sea came vp on the vpper decke and soone after shee began to settle In her wee were faine to sinke the most part of our bedding and clothes and the Chirurgions Chest with the rest Our men that were ashoare stood looking vpon vs almost dead with cold and sorrowes to see our misery and their owne We lookt vpon them againe and both vpon each other with woefull hearts Darke night drew on and I bade the Boate to be haled vp and commanded my louing companions to goe all into her who in some refusing complements expressed their faithfull affections to mee as loth to part from me I told them that my meaning was to goe ashoare with them And thus lastly I forsooke the Ship We were seuenteene poore soules now in the Boate and we now imagined that we were leapt out of the Frying pan into the fire The ebbe was made and the water extraordinary thicke congealed with snow so that we thought assuredly it would carry vs away into the Sea We thereupon doublemand foure oares appointing foure more to sit ready with oares and so with the helpe of God we got to the shoare haling vp the Boate after vs. One thing was most strange in this thicke water namely That there went a great swelling Sea Being arriued vpon the land we greeted our fellowes the best we could at which time they could not know vs nor we them by our habits nor voyces so frozen all ouer wee were faces haire and apparell And here I meane to take breath awhile after all this long and vnpleasant Relation of our miserable endeauours Crauing leaue first of all to speake a word or two in generall The winds since we came hither haue beene very variable and vnconstant and till within this fortnight the Southerly winde was the coldest The reason I conceiue to be for that it did blow from the Maine land which was all couered with snow and for that the North winds came out of the great Bay which hitherto was open Adde to that we were now vnder a South Banke which did shelter vs so that we were not so sensible of it A North-west a North-west by North and a North-North-west winde if it blew a storme would raise the Tydes extraordinarily and in briefe from the West Northwest to the North North-east would raise the tydes in proportion as they did blow from the middle point The wind being on the opposite points if it blew it would flow very little at all The harder it blew the lesse water it would flow If it were little winde or calme it would flow indifferently The tydes doe high ordinarily without being forced about three foot but being forced with the forementioned winds vpward of ten foot I could perceiue no difference betwixt Neape and spring tydes It flowes halfe tyde that is the flood comes from the Northward and thither returnes againe two houres before it be high water and it is commonly so seene in most Bayes or Inlets The VVintering AFter we had haled vp the Boate we went alongst the breach side in the darke towards our house where we made a good fire and with it and bread and water wee thawde and comforted our selues beginning after that to reason one with another concerning our Ship I requir'd that euery one should speak his mind freely The Carpenter especially was of the opinion that she was founderd and would neuer be seruiceable againe He alledged that she had so beaten that it was not possible but that all her Ioints were loose and seames open and that by reason it flowed so little water and no Creeke nor Coue being neere wherein to bring her aground he could not deuise how he might come to mend it Moreouer her Rudder was lost and he had no Iron-worke to hang on another Some alledged that we had heaued her vp so high vpon the sands that they thought we should neuer haue her off againe and that they were assured she was already dockt three foote Others that she lay in the Tydes way and that the Ice might teare her to pieces off the ground besides which two of our Ankers we could not now get from vnder the Ice which when the Ice brake which would be of a great thickenesse by the Spring would breake our Ankers to pieces and then we should haue no Ankers to bring vs home withall supposed we got off the ship that she proued sound also I comforted them the best I could with such like words My Masters and faithfull Companions be not dismaide for any of these disasters but let vs put our whole trust in God It is he that giueth and he that taketh away he throwes downe with one hand and raiseth vp with another His will be done If it be our fortunes to end our dayes here we are as neere heauen as in England and we are much bound to God Almighty for giuing vs so large a time of repentance
extremity of cold and labour making way with shouels thorow the deepe Snow euen from the Sea-side vnto our Store-house And thus concluded we the old yeere 1631. Ianuary 1632. The first of Ianuary and for the most part all the moneth was extreme cold The sixth I obserued the latitude with what exactnesse I could it being very cleere Sun-shine weather which I found to be 51. 52. This difference is by reason that here is a great Refraction The one and twentieth I obserued the Sunne to rise like an Ouall alongst the Horizon I cald three or foure to see it the better to confirme my Iudgement and we all agreed that it was twice as long as it was broad We plainely perceiued withall that by degrees as it gate vp higher it also recouered his roundnesse The sixe and twentieth I obserued when the Easterne edge of the Moone did touch the Planet Mars the Lions heart was then in the East quarter 21. 45. aboue the Horizon but all this was not done with that exactnesse that I haue done other obseruations The thirtieth and one and thirtieth there appeared in the beginning of the night more Starres in the firmament then euer I had before seene by two thirds I could see the Cloud in Cancer full of small Starres and all the via lactea nothing but small Starres and amongst the Plyades a great many small Starres About tenne a Clocke the Moone did rise and then a quarter of them was not to be seene The wind for the most part of this month hath beene Northerly and very cold the warmest of which time wee imployed our selues in fetching Wood working vpon our Pinnasse and other things that happened In the beginning of this moneth the Sea was all firmely frozen ouer so that we could see no water any way I hope it will not seeme tedious to the Readers if I here deliuer mine owne opinion how this abundance of Ice comes to be ingendered The Land that encircles this great Bay which lyes in a broken Irregular forme making many little shoald Bayes and Guts being moreouer full of Ilands and dry sands is for the most part low and flat and hath flat shoalds adioyning to it halfe a mile or a mile that are dry at low water Now you must know that it flowes halfe tyde as I haue often experienced that is from whence the flood commeth the water thither returneth two houres before it be high water or full Sea It seldome raines after the middle of September but snowes and that Snow will not melt on the Land nor Sands At low water when it snowes which it doth very often the sands are all couered ouer with it which the halfe tyde carries officiously twice in twentie foure houres into the great Bay which is the common Rendezvous of it Euery low water are the sands left cleere to gather more to the increase of it Thus doth it daily gather together in this manner till the latter end of October and by that time hath it brought the Sea to that coldnesse that as it snows the snow will lye vpon the water in flakes without changing his colour but with the winde is wrought together and as the winter goes forward it begins to freeze on the surface of it two or three inches or more in one night which being carried with the halfe tyde meets with some obstacle as it soone doth and then it crumples and so runnes vpon it selfe that in a few houres it will be fiue or sixe foote thicke The halfe tyde still flowing carries it so fast away that by December it is growne to an infinite multiplication of Ice And thus by this storing of it vp the cold gets the predomination in the Sea which also furnisheth the Springs and water in the low flat lands that it cooles it like it selfe This may appeare by our experience though in all this I freely submit my selfe vnto the better learned Our men found it more mortifying cold to wade thorow the water in the beginning of Iune when the Sea was all full of Ice then in December when it was increasing Our Well moreouer out of which we had water in December we had none in Iuly The ground at ten foote deepe was frozen The quantitie of the Ice may very easily be made to appeare by Mathematicall Demonstration and yet I am not of the opinion that the Bay doth freeze all ouer For the one and twentieth the winde blowing a storme at North we could perceiue the Ice to rise something in the Bay February 1632. The cold was as extreme this moneth as at any time we had felt it this yeere and many of our men complained of infirmities Some of sore mouthes all the teeth in their heads being loose their gums swolne with blacke rotten flesh which must euery day be cut away The paine was so sore on them that they could not eate their ordinary meat Others complained of paine in their heads and their brests Some of weakenesse in their backs Others of aches in their thighs and knees and others of swellings in their legges Thus were two thirds of the company vnder the Chirurgions hand And yet neuerthelesse they must worke daily and goe abroad to fetch wood and timber notwithstanding the most of thē had no shooes to put on Their shooes vpon their comming to the fire out of the snow were burnt and scorcht vpon their feete and our store-shooes were all sunke in the Ship In this necessitie they would make this shift To bind clouts about their feet and endeauoured by that poore helpe the best they could to performe their duties Our Carpenter likewise is by this time falne sicke to our great discomforts I practised some obseruations by the rising and setting of the Sunne calculating the time of his rising and setting by very true running glasses As for our Clocke and Watch notwithstanding we still kept them by the fires side in a Chest wrapt in clothes yet were they so frozen that they could not goe My obseruations by these Glasses I compared with the Stars comming to the Meridian By this meanes wee found the Sunne to rise twentie minutes before it should and in the euening to remaine aboue the Horizon twentie minutes or thereabouts longer then it should doe And all this by reason of the Refraction Since now I haue spoken so much of the cold I hope it will not be too coldly taken if I in a few words make it someway to appeare vnto our Readers Wee made three differences of the cold all according to the places In our house In the woods and in the open Ayer vpon the Ice in our going to the ship For the last it would be sometimes so extreme that it was not indurable no Cloathes were proofe against it no motion could resist it It would moreouer so freeze the haire on our eye-lids that we could not see and I verily beleeue that it would haue stifled a man in a very few houres we