Mouth which he placeth between Parium and Lampsacus emptying it self into the Propontis nor yet of the River Aesopus Wherefore these may be esteemed some other Rivers of Phrygia or Mysia Minor or Hellespontick Mysia which I suppose to be extended until the Mountain by the Iron-Gate or Mount Timnus now mentioned Whence also I believe Mysia major begins and reacheth unto the Mountain by Thyatira Thirdly This River at Mandragorai abovementioned is most probably the Caicus whose Fountain Ptolomy putteth in the same Latitude with the Rhyndicus but not in the same Longitude and Strabo makes the Caicus to pass through the best part of Mysia before it comes to Pergamo But this by the way I was going to tell what Plants I found by it in my Walk this Evening 1. PLANTS AT MANDRAGORAL Scordium Lanuginosum sive Creticum Downy or Candy Scordion 2. Alsine Lotoides sive Anthylloides sive Spergulae facie C. Bauhinus 3. Gingidium Hispanicum which the Spaniards call Visnago in great esteem among them for Tooth-picks as Dr Pickering informed me when he shewed it me growing all over these Countries The next morning we parted thence and soon passed the River Whence up and down in a rough Mountainous Country we travelled till about three in the Afternoon when we arrived at a Village under a Mountain called Courougouli or the Dry Lake For the Plain round about in Winter is filled with Water like a Lake and in the Summer is dry Plants here observed were 1. PLANTS AT COUROUGOULI Leucoium Alyfsoides clypeatum majus C. Bauhin Dioscorides Gerard page 465. Mine agreeth well with common Moonwort only the Leaves of it as it groweth bigger put out here and there a little Angle and grow round about it near the ground in a Tuft Whence it sendeth but a single Stalk as I observed in most of them set with oval Shields c. and the whole Plant very woolly like Woollen Cloth as it yet remaineth in my Book But that change may happen through Alteration of Climate Lib III. Fig IIII Origanum Spicatum montis Sipyli folijs glabris W 2. But the Plant which pleased me most to see here was a most beautiful kind of Origanum with long purple Flowers Mr. Merchant calleth it Origanum Heracleoticum Flore purpureo But Dr. Morison much better hath named it Origanum spicatum It is an Origanum different from any that hath been seen in our parts From black stringy and creeping Roots rise up many downy round Stalks beset in pairs of Leaves at first somewhat downy and ribbed with such small Ribs as are hardly perceiveable to the Touch. The Shape is round near the Stem and endeth in a sharp point like the small Myrtle These shoot a foot and half or two foot high from the Ground the Stalk and Leaves growing smooth and towards the top in pairs it sendeth out very small Twigs which end in a scaly Flower like a Hop sometimes near an inch long and of a light purple colour between whose scales come small Purple Flowers When they are bruised they send forth a weak Scent something resembling Stoecas Arabicus I found it both in Flower and Seed with which I have furnished several Gardens And it flourisheth now very well at Oxford The next day we passed over a good high Mountain whence we had the Prospect of a large Plain East of us and came very early to Basculumbai a Village of about two or three hundred Houses BASCULUMBAI having a Kan and three Mosques also We lodged at an Acquaintance of the Doctor 's a Turk that made as much of us as he could This place tradeth much in Cotton I took notice of the Instrument they separate the Seed from the Cotton with which is only two Rowls one of Wood about two or three inches diameter and another small one of Iron set in a frame so as to rouch one another each of which being turn'd round the other turneth also and letteth the Cotton pass between as it goeth about but leaveth the round Seeds behind Here I observed a little River which may fall into the Caicus Thursday the Nineteenth of October we parted hence early in the morning and about a Mile from the Town left the common Road to Smyrna on the right hand and passed through a pleasant Country mixed with Woods and Pastures until we came to a Mountain stretched out in length East and West yet not very high It hath a Gap in the middle through which we passed along a Stream great part of which is carried in Aqueducts under-ground to Thyatira This Mountain is supposed to part Mysia major and Lydia To defend this Passage on the right hand a good height are the Ruins of an old Castle called by the Turks Akeisar or White Castle as they do also now call Thyatira which we saw from hence over a Plain about two Miles further South and arrived thither about Noon Thyatira is a very antient City in Lydia or in the Confines of Mysia a Colony of the Macedonians according to Strabo situate almost in the mid-way between Pergamo and Sardis in a very delightful Plain But since more famous in Holy Writ being one of those Churches of Asia the Son of God vouchsafed to write to by the Holy Apostle St John THYATIRA shewing them what they must look for if they did not reclaim themselves from the Fornication with which they were polluted through the perswasion of some who taught them to eat Meats offered unto Idols thereby to dissemble the Truth Upon which warning how well they reformed is uncertain But certain that Christianity is almost extinct in this place there being not above ten Christians in the Town destitute both of Church and Priest Their Patience and Suffering undoubtedly is great among that disproportionable number of Infidels For the Town is very populous in Turks and may contain four or five thousand Souls It s antient Temporal as well as Spiritual Beauty is destroyed its Marble Buildings are buried in their own Ruins Houses built of Clods of Earth and dried in the Sun only remaining and it s once glorious Name obliterated Insomuch that a very little while ago none knew where it was to be found nor where it did stand Some thought with the ignorant Greeks that it was Tyreth a Town South-East of Ephesus about twenty Miles where they pretend they have the Apocalypse of St John's own writing as I have heard Until the Curiosity and Piety of the English Consul of Smyrna Mr Ricaut with several of the Merchants whose Devotions were raised by their Minister Mr Lake gave a Period to this gross Errour by finding this to be the antient Thyatira For they met with many Inscriptions here where the name Thyatira is mentioned of which all we could find being a dozen we copied with as great exactness as we could which gave us a great deal of News of this Place The first we were shewed was at a kind of
lodged in the Castle no Christians whatsoever being permitted to enter into it But we were forced to make a vertue of Necessity and content our selves to take up our habitation in a place not much bigger or better than a Tomb like the Mad-man mentioned in the Gospel Which was a Brick Building arched over of six foot broad and fifteen foot long and the Floor digg'd two foot deep below ground It had two such holes one a top and another below as would neither let out the Smoak nor let in the Light But cold enough This Room served us for all the Offices of a spacious House the worst was when it came to its turn to be made a Kitchin not but that we might well enough have endured the Fire if our Eyes could have agreed as well with the Smoak Our Patron of the Barque lent us his Sail to spread on the Floor on which laying our Quilts we made but a bad shift the Place being very damp But the Wetness producing good store of Rushes thereabouts I taught them at last to be Matt-makers by tying handfuls of long Rushes together with Pack-thred we had by us These we laid under our Quilts and to stop out the Cold. The Fountain Argyra of good fresh Water at our Door was our best Accommodation For as to our Wine we sent for it two or three Miles off our Bread we had from Patras and our Meat from the Mountains at about a Mile or two's distance One day to take the Air I went to the Mountains with our Greek and a Guide to get Provisions and having passed by some Flocks not above two Miles from us not finding the Shepherds with them we began to ascend the foot of the Mountain and being gat up upon a Hill at a good distance we saw thirty or forty sitting in a round heap together This made me presently to call to mind the pleasant Stories I had heard of the Arcadian Shepherds from whose Country we were now not far distant I thought of nothing but being diverted by some Festival some Sport or other among them or at least that there had been the Nuptials of some fair Shepherdess then celebrated At which the Shepherds being weary of dancing were now set down to entertain themselves with the noble Wine of the Country a fat Lamb of their Flocks or with some Rustick Sonnets and old Wives Tales But approaching nearer I was soon undeceiv'd finding an old Grey-bearded Turk sitting in the middle of the Circle like a Conjurer with his Lap full of Pebles Pen Ink and Paper by him and giving each of them their Task which was to turn five of those Stones into so many Dollers by the next day at that time upon pain of being made Slaves and sent chained to the Gallies if they failed This was for their Caratch or Poll-money There were other Accounts also to be made up among them For their Flocks are not their own but the Grand Signiors of which they have the tenth Part of the Profit and Fruit for their Labour paying the other Duties that are imposed upon them The number of Pebles that were then to be made Dollers was Four hundred and thirteen by a People that I dare engage knew nothing of the Philosopher's Stone Their manner of living there is in little Hutts made of long Sedge which they joyn together with Sticks and Wit hs in such sort that a Covering of these keeps off the Rain from the top and as for the Wind as that changeth so they turn their Doors to the Lee of it making a Fire before it These are their Winter Houses when they are forced from the tops of the Mountains covered with Snow into the Valleys For in the Summer they have Villages they live in upon the Mountains and there with greater security feed their Sheep and witner in these little Hutts therein crowding themselves and Wives and Children together Their Habit is ordinarily made of White Cloth of the courser Wool of their Flocks being a large Cloak with a Hood of the same joyned to it and hanging down behind or to cover their Heads with when they have occasion For ordinarily on their Heads they wear a kind of Hat made of Wool in which their Hoods enter not but is flat and sits close to their Heads having a good big Knob on the top and tied under their Chin with long strings like a Cardinal's Cap by which when they please they can let it hang on their Shoulders and put on their Hood Their Under-garment is commonly a Fustian Shirt made so wide that they let it hang sometimes quite on the outside their Breeches The Women have a very odd kind of dress for their Heads being a half Circle or Crescent of Tin or Brass set an end upon their Heads with a Girdle about their Middle of the same Metal composed of many Scales of Brass which is girded about such a Linnen Garment as the Men wear but longer and embroidered with red Yarn about the Neck Sleeves and Bottom Their Shooes are only dried Skins laced together with Leather or Strings about their Feet Having made our Market we returned with more Melancholy than Satisfaction to see these poor Christians in so miserable a Condition bringing with us a very good fat Sheep for five Timins that is about two Shillings which was a Groat more than is usual to pay there for them A prospect of the Corintian gulfe from the City of Lepanto Lib IIII. Fig. II a Tubano or Pelican Patras After a very stormy Night twelfth day in the Morning so soon as we opened the Door of our House we found one of these sorts of Fowls PELICANS we call Pelicans the Modern Greeks Toubana Monsieur Spon thinks the same that Pliny calls Onocrotalus Whether benummed with cold or that it had been shot I know not but we easily caught it with Stones It hath a Body as big as a Swan but the Neck not so long the Feet webbed and is of a grey colour like a common Goose We measured the Beak of this to be seventeen Inches long broad in the largest part an Inch and half from the Beak to the Crown of the Head five Inches The end of the Beak turneth into a sharp Hook which perhaps helps it to catch Fish The under part of the Beak is proportionable to the upper in length and breadth also when it is shut together but when it openeth it enlargeth it so that it becometh as I guess half a foot wide it being of a bending substance much like a Whale's Bone and the two Jaws of it joyned together at the end as if it was but one piece bent together To this near to the entrance of the Throat is joyned a bag of a skinny substance like a Bladder before it is blown which shrinketh it self so much together that it is not seen when the Mouth is shut or the Bag empty but when filled it will stretch to an incredible
a stringy Root springeth at first a thick Tuft of tender Sprouts whose Leaves are set so thick after one another two by two and crossing each other that they quite hide the round Stalk and make it look most Beautiful It seemeth all over hairy but as it groweth up about half a foot high it stretcheth the Leaves to a greater distance from each other in pairs and still crossing each other They are of a light green colour ribbed oval and pierced like St John's Woort but not pointed at the Ends smooth on both sides but round the Edges very rough and hairy I observe now since they are dry that they are full of black Spots Towards the top of the Flowers come out one above another from between the Leaves and leave a little Button of Seed divided into three parts with a hairy Husk about it of fine Leaves I cannot be positive whether I saw the Flower or no but if my Memory doth not very much fail me I did and it was a reddish colour But it is perfectly faded in my Book being very thin and tender I think it may be properly called Hyperioon margine crinifero Olympii Montis 7. After Conyzoides Gesneri with another thought to be Astragalus Matheoli flore Caeruleo 8. Pyrola fruticosior tenerior or as Bauhinus frutescens Arbuti folio which expresseth more the Nature of it 9. Gentianella Verna which hath a Knot of small Ature Flowers growing close to the ground 10. Senetium lanuginosum as Mr. Merchant or rather Senetio incana pinguis according to C. Bauhinus page 131. Downy Grounsel for it is so fat and glutinous that it sticketh to the Fingers This is not described by Gerard But it groweth taller and of a more strong Substance than the ordinary Grounsel But to give an exact Description of it I know not well how For it is spoiled with bringing so far or rather for want of care in putting it up better The Leaves as I remember are somewhat bigger than the vulgar and something like Ragweed 11. Cerinthe Minor G. 12. Cystus Argenteis foliis as Mr. Merchant calleth it I do not find it described in Gerard nor can I sind any Name agreeing with it exactly in C. Bauhinus his Pinà x although there are many incana hirsuta This is a little shrubby Plant growing from one Root into a round Tuft of woody Branches not a handful high from the ground dividing it self into many white Twigs which are thick set with small triple Leaves covered with a shining Whiteness like Sattin among which I saw short broad and flat Cods but the Hair longer and more downy containing a little shining and broad Seed Perhaps it may be that which Bellonius telleth grows not in France nor Italy without giving any other Desrciption of it nor hath it by me been seen in either 13. Cymbalaria Italica G. 14. Calamentha montana praestantior G. 687. 15. Elichryson sive Gnaphalium comâ aureâ This is a very beautiful Plant which hath lying almost flat on the ground several long Leaves out of the middle of which riseth up a round Stalk of a handful and half high set about carelesly with narrow Leaves All of them from the bottom to the top covered with so thick white Down that it may be pulled off with the Fingers The top is crowned with a Tuft of scaly globular Flowers of a bright yellow colour which being gathered will continue fresh many Years 16. There is growing up and down upon the top of this Mountain Tufts of Grass or Rushes lying round together upon the ground like a Hedgehog or Porcupine about half a handful high each having a sharp hard point which makes it very hard to come at to gather any of it 17. Stratiotes Tragi page 476. or Millefolium Nobile G. I. B. page 1073. He hath forgot to mention the Odoriferous Smell it hath The Seeds smell like the Seeds of common Tansy but more pleasant His Design agreeth well with my Plants 18. Descending from the Mountain I observed another sort of Hypericon or St John's Woort with a single large Flower on the top upon a Stalk of a foot or better high whereon Leaves grow like the other St John's Woort but larger and by pairs at equal distances The Description that C. Bauhinus in his Prodromo page 130. giveth of Ascyron magno flore agreeth well with this only I may add That it beareth but one Flower at the top and that the Seeds follow the Flower in a round Cod like Park Leaves which he never saw but saith It was gathered in the Pyrenaean Mountains by Dr Barserus but this here upon Olympus 19. Panax Heracleum or Hercules All-heale But whether it beareth Opopanax here I had not time to examine 20. Borago Semper Virens or Everlasting Borage of which G. page 797. 21. On the Mountain in plain Places where standing Water had been I gathered a kind of Gnaphalium which I find not described It is most like the Leontopodium of Gerard But whereas he says That riseth a handful high This creepeth and lieth flat on the Ground From a little blackish Root spreade five or six or more downy Stems of about an Inch long on which are commonly half a dozen white sharp Leaves three long ones and three short ones like the Stoechas Citrina I but now mentioned Within which is a greenish yellow Flower I believe each of them take root and produce many more of the same For it spreadeth irregularly very much abroad whereof this I have now described is but a slip although it is rooted 22. I was shewed a dried Herb that groweth on this Mountain whereof the Powder is made we commonly call Tutti Dr Pickering called it Herba Tuitia I saw it only dry but it seemeth both in Root Leaves and Flower to be very like our ordinary Field-Cowslip only the Leaves are much longer and the Cups that contain the Flowers rather like Auricula Vrsi and the Flowers of a reddish colour of five little Leaves each with a notch also at the top They say when it is blown there is a Dust that may be shaken off this Plant which is the best Powder This Armenian told us There groweth a World of other curious Plants and fair Flowers about this Mountain but that the time of Year to see them was past As for me I was glad I found these and sorry that Night grew so near that I was forced to desist searching them to find the way down which we did with difficulty enough not being half way down before the Night over-took us nor arrived we to the Kan before ten or eleven at Night I was carried to a Turkish Quack-Salver a Man reputed for his Skill in Physick among them where I saw a great many ordinary Herbs dried in bundles some I knew not perhaps it was because ill dried All that I saw green was an Herb much like Germander only the Snips of the Leaves were sharp and not
ΤΗÎΤΕ ΜΗÎΑÎΔΡΟΠΕΙΚΟΥ ΤΟΥ ΑΠΔΡΟÎΕΙΚΟΥ ΚΑΙ ΣΤΡΑΤΟÎΕΙ ΚΗΣ ΤΗΣ ΜΗÎΟΙΕÎΟΥΣ ΤΩΠΘΡΕΨΑÎΤΩΠΕΚ ΤΩΠΙΔΙΩΠBy another Inscription there we learned Id. Mar. 1. Id. Mar. 8. Id. Mar. 2. That there was a Temple dedicated to Diana the Goddess most devoutly adored by all the Asiaticks Lib. III. ΤΗΣ ΠΟΛΕΩΣ ΓΥÎΑΣΙΑΡΧΟΥ By another that there was a Gymnasium and a chief Governour of the Schools Lib III IMP. CAESAR Vâ—SPASIANVS AVG. PONTIF MAX. TRIB POT VI. IMP. XIII COS. VI. DESIG VII CENSOR VIAS FACIENDAS CVRAVIT ΛΥΤΟΚΡΑΤΩΡ ΟΥ ΕΣΠΑΣΙΑÎΟΣ ΣΕΒΑΣ ΤΟΣ ΑΡΧΙΕΡΕΥΣ ΜΕΓΙΣΤΟΣΨΞ ΔΗΜΑΡΧΙΚΗΣ ΕΞΟΥΣΙΑΣ Ψ Ξ ΑΥΤΟΚΑΤΩΡ Α. Τ. ΙΤ. ΠΑΤΗΡ ΠΑΤΡΙΔΟΣ-ΥΠΑΤΟΣ ΤΖ ◠ΛΠΟΔΕΔΕΜΕÎΟΣ Ψ-Σ ΤΕΙΜΗΣΗ ΤΑΣ ΟΔΟΥΣ ΕΠΟΙ ΗΣΕΠUpon a Pillar in the Kan that the Emperour Vespasian had here ordered their ways to be made the sixth Year of his Consulship And out of Consul Ricaut's Remarks an Inscription shewed That the Emperour Severus was honoured by the very great City of Thyatira Both which made me believe That they did but flatter the Emperour Caracalla in calling him their Founder or Restorer Perhaps it was because he granted them some Priviledges they before wanted This Town is well water'd and hath little Rivulets running in several Streets Here are seven Mosques one of them a Christian shewed us and told us It had been a Christian Church The point of its Minoret is broken and the reason that they give is That it having been a Christian Church God will not suffer it to stand For it hath been several times built or set up and as often suddenly thrown down On the out-side were shewed us two Inscriptions Here are also two Kans in one of which we lodged being of one story sustained by thirty Marble Pillars of divers Proportions and Orders whose curious wrought Capitals are now become their Pedestals Some of the Corinthian Order were carved with Leaves on the Fusts as well as the Capitals partly chanelled and partly carved like those you may see in the Front of the Temple at Milasso being a kind of Ornament not ordinary And as to such leased Pillars Mr. Galante Antiquary to the French King gives my Comrade this his Remark There is a Chiosque or Pavilion near Ingerliqui on the Bosphorus towards the Black Sea built by Sultan Solyman the Foundation of which consists of many Pillars amongst the rest one of about a foot and half Diameter of which is seen not above two foot of the end towards the Base boulting out of the Foundation in imitation of Canons as the rest do But this is particularly remarkable for the carving towards the Base with Vine Branches mixed with Figures of several sorts of Creatures as Beetles and Snails with two Masques and a Vessel full of Grapes trodden by three Men all excellent work Without doubt this was taken from the Temple of Bacchus of which Petrus Gillius maketh mention in his Description of Constantinople For speaking of the Pillars he saith thus Capitula inferiorum Echinos habent circumdantes imam partem reliqua pars est tota vestita foliis But he had not observed them very nearly By a Fountain hard by this Kan I observed a Basso-relievo of Plenty and a Pedestal of a Statue great part in the ground which we had not time to dig up and see whether it had an Inscription upon it But some Figures were on the sides The other is a lesser but a better Kan of two Stories The Town is well served with ordinary Provisions They make a great deal of Cotton here and send it to Smyrna which from hence is but two small days Journeys In our way thither I observed among the Spanish Broom and other Shrubs that which Casp Bauhinus calleth Spartium alterum monospermum and Pseudo-spartium Hispanicum Aphyllon Bastard Spanish Broom PLANTS AT THYATIRA Here I saw another in the ploughed Ground in the Plains and elsewhere The Doctor called it Thapsus minor longifolio and told me It was the only Remedy the People used there in all Diseases The Leaves are something in shape like a Sage-Leaf but thick-cover'd with a bright silver Hair like Plush The Flowers I saw not but I esteem it rather to be reduced to the Sideritis than Thapsus or rather a kind of Stachys For I think it to be the same I gathered at Tine with Stalks and Seeds The next Morning October the twentieth two hours before day we left Thyatira guiding our course South-West-wards and had almost lost our way a little out of the Town in the dark and a quaggy wet Ground But in about two hours time we foorded a little River near a Bridge among the Stones of which one was a Marble whereon the Name of Tiberius Caesar was engraven and not a stones cast further another River doubtless part of the same Stream both running North-wards from thence I believe to seek the Caicus towards Pergamus Thence we passed over a Plain about four or five Miles every way over and came to a Hill whence we had the Prospect of the spacious Plains of Magnesia bounded with Mount Sipylus South-wards at the foot of which we discerned the City it self near five hours before we came to it A very little more to the East we saw Mount Pinolus by which is Sardis This Plain is counted fifty or sixty Miles long from East to West and near about fifteen broad It is famous in the Roman History by the glorious Victory of Lucius Scipio over Antioohus T. Livius lib. 57. cap. 58. who therefore deservedly bare the Title of Asiaticus and therein equalized himself with his Brother who was for the like Atchievement called Africanus I have it in a Roman Coin lately given me among several others by my worthy Friend John Robinson Esquire which hath on one side the Head of an old Man crowned with Letters defaced and on the other an Elephant by which is represented Asia and above is plainly to be read SCIPIO and under the Elephant IMP. for Imperator We baited at a Turk's Country-house something beyond the middle of the Plain and about two hours after arrived at Magnesia about three in the Afternoon after we had passed the Hermus a considerable River near a Mile from it leaving on both sides of its Chanel a deep moory Ground which would be impassable unless the way were cast up and trenched on each side Magnesia still retains its antient Name MAGNESIA There were two of them the one called Magnesia ad Meandrum or upon the River Meander the other ad Sipylum Magnesia at Mount Sipylus at the foot of which on the North-West side it is fituate This is to be seen in many antient Monuments and Coins as in one I found at Smyrna in the Armenian Church yard the Sepulchral Monument of one Tatias Son of Herothemus ΜΑΓÎΗΤΙΣΑΠΟ ΣΙΠΥΛΟΥ a Magnesian at Sipylus ΤΑΤΙΑΣ ΗΡΟΘΕΜΙΔΟΣ ΜΑΓÎΗΤΙΣ ΑΠΟ ΣΙΠΥΛΟΥ ΖΩΣΑ ΚΑΤΩ ΥΙΟΩ ΤΩ ΚΑΤΟΙΧΟΜΕÎΩ ΛΥΣΑÎΙΑ ΛΥΣΑΚΑΙ ΤΩ ΠΑΤΡΙ ΑΥΤΟΥ ΛΥΣ The Tomb was adorned with Wreaths
some little hills lying Westwards from the Town I take this Peninsula to be about four miles East and West but it is esteemed eight miles from Spalato to Clissa Northwards The Town is situated on the South-coasts at the bottom of a Bay in the bending shape of a half-moon which makes a deep Haven and of good Anchoridge but somewhat open to the South-winds Yet Gallies and smaller Vessels have a Mole to secure them from those dangers This place is about four hundred miles from Venice It hath a very pleasing prospect entring the Haven one side of the Palace now part of the Wall of the Town first offering it self to the view For it hath a Gallery of ancient Windows adorned with Pillars and Cornishes between each of them of the Dorick-Order except one at each end which are larger and of the Corinthian This Palace is square and comprehends above two parts of three of the City the rest being a little oblong added to the West-side makes the whole oblong but both one and the other are lately fortified and encompassed by a Work of three Bastions Northwards and two ranging in the same line with the Wall of the Palace and the Old City fronting the Haven There is another little Fort N. E. of the Town against Incursions from the Mountains and another upon the East-point of the Harbour But this is only of Earth and hath Five Bastions On the West is a Hill unfortified which commandeth the Town and renders it very weak On the right hand within the Mole is a large Lazarett as the Italians call a Pest-house which are frequent in all the Cities of Italy and under the Venetian Dominions They are principally for those that come from any place suspected of the Plague especially Turky which is never free from it And here new-comers stay forty days to clear themselves which they call doing Centumaccia or Quarantine from so many days allotted before they can have Prattick or any Commerce with the City But this served instead of a Palace to entertain the Embassadour and also for want of an Inn in the Town for a Lodging for us It hath three Quadrangles each less than the other The Chamber we chose was the best of half a dozen at least of one side of the third Quadrangle I should have been gladder had we found nothing but the bare Walls as my Comerade hath given an account For we had both them and the Floor so furnished with Chinches Fleas and Emmots that I who used still to have the greatest share in such Vermin feared we should be devour'd before we parted thence notwithstanding all we could invent to destroy them This is a very commodious place for the Merchants that come out of Turky in great Companies which they call Caravans both to lodg them and their Merchandize which they unlade here it being the chief Scale of Trade for Shipping of Goods from Turky to Venice Our Beds were such as we had made at Venice to lye on in the Gally being our length and breadth of course Ticking-Cloth well quilted with Wool which did us great service afterwards in all our Voyage into Turky We staied at Spalato eleven days which gave us time enough to survey the place with more than ordinary diligence But that which most employed our curiosity was the Palace of Dioclesian who when the weight of the Empire seem'd uneasie to him chose this place to retire to near his native City Salona It is built of Free-stone well hew'n and cemented together the Figure is an Equilateral square each side containing two hundred paces in length and the height that remains is above sixty foot It hath a square Tower at each corner and three Gates and with Monsieur Spon favour no more that side towards the Sea having none according to the best of my remembrance nor have I noted any more in the design I made of the Town or in my Journal The Gate which entreth the Town from the Haven being no part of the Palace The other are placed in the middle of each side Dioclesians Palace A The Court B the Portico about it C the plane of the Octogone temple D the front of the Rotundo E the plane of itt F the square Temple G the Gates H the Towers I buildings or ruines That side toward the Haven hath forty-five Windows adorned with as many Pillars of the Dorick-Order with Freezes Architraves and Bases very well proportioned Besides at each end one far larger and higher than the rest with Three Arches born up by Corinthian Pillars of Marble The Windows of the other sides are not set off with Pillars but plain The North-gate which is towards Salona was well adorned with Statues as the Niches shew The weaving together of the Stones of the Architrave of the great entrance of this Gate is very pretty This was for Horses and Carts to come in at The two lesser entrances at each side of it were for the people on foot I give you the Figure as well as I could take it The West-wall is for the greatest part razed to the foundations yet what remains of the Gate assures me that it was beautified with two Hexagon-Towers on each side and hence examining likewise the other two I judg'd that they also might have been adorned in the same manner Concerning the West-Gate there is a way streight thorough several ruins seeming apartments of the Palace which leadeth to a Court about fifty foot long and seventeen wide which I judge to have been the Center of the Palace and equally distant from the Gates This place on the East West and South-side is almost encompassed with a Portico of Pillars of the Egyptian Granate-stone or a Stone very like it of which I afterwards saw a Rock in the Island Delos and since that great plenty at Milan about their Churches which they dig out of a Quarry near Lago Maior at the foot of the Alps. They are of the Corinthian Order well proportioned and their Capitals of white Marble At the south-South-end is a round Temple like the Pantheon at Rome whose Frontispiece wanteth not the Beauty of the more ancient Roman Architecture At the East-end is an Octogon-Temple and opposite to it Westward a square one The Plane of all which I here give with its Dimensions as I took them The Octogon is now the Cathedral Church dedicated to Saint Lucia It is Eight square within and without as I find it by the Dimensions and figure I exactly took of it It hath on the outside a Portic round it Eight-square also whose curious wrought Planches of Stone are supported by Twenty-four Corinthian-Pillars of the same Granate with the others Each side of the Portick is of Fourteen foot long and each of the Temples Ten. The door four foot wide and is ascended to by several steps out of the Court. Within it hath two ranges of Pillars one over another which placed in the several Angles do make eight below
rather that modern Ilium Strabo calleth of his time which from a Village of the Trojans was begun to be Built by Alexander the great and was finished by Lysimachus and called Alexandria afterwards made a Roman Colonie and enriched with many priviledges This our worthy Country-man Mr. Sands hath remarked and discoursed of at large having I believe followed Strabo for his guide But to proceed A little above this Port are several Marble Tombs some with the head of Apollo on them and others with Bucklers but I saw none here with Inscriptions Monsieur Spon observed that they were of the shape of those Roman Tombs at Arles in France and therefore with all likely hood we judged them to be such and not of the Ancient Trojans as Petro della Valle phansieth More South of the Port are two Pillars lying upon the ground of thirty Foot in length apiece and another broken in three pieces thirty five Foot as Monsieur Spon Measured them and the Diameter of this last four Foot and nine Inches of Granate Marble of Egypt The Grand Signior hath had a great many Pillars carried from hence to Build the New Mosque of the Sultane Mother Going yet a little further along the shore we passed by some Ruins that we supposed might have been an Aqueduct to bring water to the Port Some distance yet forward brought us to a Chanel or Valley which is long streight and deep and undoubtedly made by Art perhaps to let in the Sea for Boats to come to the City But it is now altogether drie Streight up beyond this Vallie a little on the Right hand we came to abundance of considerable Ruins which evidently discover the former greatness of this place There is a Theater there the Foundations and Walls of vast Temples and Palaces with Arches above and Vaults under ground There is also part of a little round Temple standing which hath a curious Marble Cornish within and hard by three Marble stones made in the fashion of Altars or Pedestals with Inscriptions on them differing only in the last Letters as VIC VII and VIC VIII DIVI JULI FLAMINI C. ANTONIO M. F. VOLT RVFO FLAMINI DIVI AUG COL CL. APRENS ET COL LUL. PHILIPPENS EORUNDEM ET PRINCIPI ITEM COL IVL. PARIANAE-TRIB MILIT COH XXXII VOLUN TAPIOR TRIB MIL. LEG XIII GEM PRAEF EQUIT ALAEI SCUBULORUM VIC VII They were erected in honour of Caius Antonius Rufus Son of Marcus of the Tribe Voltinia Priest to Julius and Augustus Caesar chief of the Colonie of Apros of Claudius of Philipi of Julius as likewise of the Parthian Colonie of Julius the first two Cities of Thrace and the last upon the Hellespont a Tribune of the Militia of the XXXII Cohort of Voluntiers Commander of the XIII Legion called Gemina and Captain of the first Wing of Horse of the Scibuli Who these Scibull were I know not whether a People or a kind of Militia Nor is the last line of every one of them easily understood Monsieur Spon thinketh that VIC VII VIC VIII VIC IX upon each of them may fignifie Vicus Septimus Vicus Octavus c. The Seventh Eighth or Ninth streets in which these Statues were set up in imitation of the streets and quarters of Rome to which it was a Colony planted by Augustus who restored it again as appeareth by many Medals which shew it to have taken the name of Colonia Augusti Troas from him From the sea shore there is a very easy ascent unto the top of the hill which is not high but crowned with the Ruins of a most stately Building What it hath been whether Castle Temple or Christian Church is hard to determin Which because none that I have seen hath yet done I will endeavour to describe according to the dimensions I there took of it Lib. j Fig XV The whole length is about Four Hundred and thirteen Foot from North to South the breadth from East to West Two Hundred Twenty Four The chief Front looked towards the West where at the entrance you leave two Wings of Foundations one on the Right-hand and the other on the Left of equal length and parallel to each other That on the Left-hand is divided into two oblongs Whereof that which is outmost Northward is Twenty four paces wide or Seventy four Foot and hath meerly the Foundations of the out walls remaining and plain ground within The next is Thirteen paces wide or Thirty nine Foot and is the greatest part of it Vaulted and Arched underground The other wing on the Left hand is of equal length and Thirty three paces or Ninety nine Foot in breadth This hath nothing but the Foundations of the Walls remaining and plain ground within Lib j. Fig XVI Between these two there seemeth to have been a large Court which brings you to three great Arches in a great and high wall before which lieth a vast heap of Marble Pillars Pilasters Cornishes and other great Square-pieces in such confused manner that it is hard to judge in what form they were erected But a Capital and some Pillars shew them to have been of the Corinthian order Channelled I doubt not but these made a most Magnificent Portico before those three Arches which where the Gates to enter into this Building For the Wall it self is but of Free-stone except the Frize on high and some other Ornaments to the Arches which are of Marble and above the Marble Freeze the wall beginning to bend forward Arch-wise as if it were to Vault a Portico and the whole wall finisheth at each end about the length of the heap of Marble The dimensions of this wall and Arches are as I took them by a French Foot which differeth from ours but three parts of an hundred The middle Arch is Forty foot wide and hath been walled up of the same stone and work all to two little doors at each side The two little Arches on each hand of it are Nineteen foot wide apiece and filled up with stones so that there is no entrance by them The distance between the Arches is Ten foot the distanoe from Arch to each corner-Corner-end is Eleven and an half The Front is thick Fourteen foot So that I judge the Portico was a Hundred and Twenty foot long and about the breadth that the great Arch is wide which is Forty foot Whose Vault was sustained within by those three Arches yet remaining and without towards the Court by those Corinthian Pillars of White Marble now lying in a heap before the Arches which without doubt must have had a wonderful effect upon the Eyes of the beholders Where the wall of the Arches finish begin the Foundations of another wall on each hand in a streight line of the same breadth and reacheth about Forty one foot to the other Foundations I first mentioned so that the whole of the Front within the Court is Two Hundred and three foot Entring at the middle Gate or Arch presently you meet another Arch which is
Sum per Cent. Where by their Industry in Traffick for themselves also upon good Gains but little Loss they live gentilely become rich and get great Estates in a short time if they will be but indifferent good Husbands and careful of their Owners and their own Business The Officers allowed over them by the King and the Levant Company are a Consul a Chancellour a Treasurer a Divine and a Physician The Consul is allowed by the Levant Company Three thousand Dollars a year Salary and Five hundred of Gratuity besides other Perquisites and honest ways whereby he may get much more His Office is to maintain the Priviledges granted by the Grand Signior to the English Nation against the Injuries and Insolencies of the encroaching Turks instead of an Ambassadour to decide all Differences that happen between Factor and Factor to see that no Injury be done by any of the Factory to the Turks and to punish Delinquents So that he doth in effect govern the business of the whole Factory there but yet from his Sentence there may be an Appeal made to the Ambassadour Mr Rycaut was then Consul who writ the State and Policy of the Ottoman Empire and a Treatise of the Greek Church an Appendix to the Turkish History down to his time and also an Account of the Seven Churches of Asia He was very obliging to us amongst other Favours in directing and informing us concerning these Parts Their Chaplain is allowed Five hundred Dollars a year Salary by the Levant Company He hath besides a Ware-House allowed him to trade with besides customary Gifts of all the Merchants yearly which amount commonly to much more And indeed the whole Factory do live together in the greatest Unity Peace and Freedom of any of them I have seen beyond Sea The French and the Venetians have also their Consuls here but are in no great Credit amongst the Turks The English have the best Reputation for their honest dealing and therefore ordinarily their Word is taken instead of Searching But the Armenians pay more Custom than any The Turks have thirteen Mosques and the Jews several Synagogues All which makes the Town populous though ill built and without either Strength or Beauty All that defends it from the Incursions of Corsaires is a little Fort at the Strait coming in about five Miles from the Town whose great Guns are its best security For it hath but a little Ditch about it and the Walls such as by two or three great Guns would soon be beat to the ground As to the Castle on the Hill above the Town it is slighted and although it hath the old Wall about it I believe built by the Greek Emperours yet it is only a heap of Ruins within with here and there some arched Caves used antiently for Cisterns or Granaries as some think having only two or three little Guns mounted against the Haven to salute the Captain of the Gallies or as Mr Smith saith the New Moon at Bairam About the Walls are set one or two of the Roman Eagles well cut and another Basso-relievo of Men on Horse-back Over the Door is an Inscription in Marble in the later Greek Characters but too high and difficult to be read There is another little old fashion'd Castle at the Harbour for the Gallies and Boats On the other side of which Harbour is the Scale or Custom-house for the Grand Signiors own Subjects Beyond which South-wards under the Hill where St Polycarp's Tomb is are the English and Dutch Burying Places and North of the Castle along the Shore is first the New Bezestan built out of the great squared Stones of the Theater It is in form like a Street to shut up at each end The Shops are little Rooms with a Cuppalo over each of them covered with Lead and little Holes on the top with Glass to let in the light Opposite unto this is a very fine Kan now a building After which is the Scale and Custom-house of the Francks and then follows Franckstreet along by the Water-side with their Scales and Ware-houses convenient to lade and unlade their Goods and is the pleasantest and best built of any part of this present Smyrna Lib. III. Fig VI. A Camelion About Smyrna are abundance of Camelions CAMELIONS which is an Animal something resembling a Lizard but hath his back gibbous like a Hog and its Feet are divided like the Claws of a Wood-pecker or Parrot two Claws before and three behind which are not separated from each other until near the ends A long Tail it hath like a Rat and is ordinarily as big but it hath very little or no Motion with its Head They are in great abundance about the old Walls of the Castle where they breed and lie in holes and heaps of Ruins Several we saw and two we kept twenty days at least in which time we made these following Observations upon them Their Colour useth to be green darker toward the back and lighter towards the Belly inclining to a yellow with spots sometimes of a reddish colour and sometimes whitish But the green would often change into a dark dirt-colour without any appearance of green COLOUR The whitish Spots would sometimes vanish or turn into the same dirt-colour and sometime remain Sometimes they would only change into a darker colour of a kind of purple-like tincture which used often to happen when it was disturbed Sometimes from a green all over they would be spotted with a pure black which also happened sometimes when it returned from the black Ordinarily when it slept under a white woollen Cap it would when uncovered be of a white or creamcolour But this it would do also under a red Cap. I never saw any change red or blue although they have been laid upon those colours often and continued there a long time But upon green they would become green and upon the dark Earth they would soon change to that colour One of the same bigness of which you see the Figure I caught as I was walking on the side of the Hill near the old Castle where I saw many which had changed themselves to the colour of the speckled Stone-walls to a grey with spots like Moss This I found on the top of a green bush of Prunella Spinosa which when I first cast my eye upon it was of a bright green colour but as soon as it perceived that I saw it it immediately let it self drop to the ground and I as soon stooped to look for it but could see nothing yet continuing to look about earnestly at last I perceived it creeping away to a Hole in the Rock being changed to a dark brown colour exactly like the Earth which was then of that colour after a shower of Rain This changing of Colours is given to this Creature by Nature for its Preservation For it is very slow in its pace lifting up its Legs high and not quick as if they saw not the way before them or rather
the Banks of this River I observed great abundance of Anemonies of the dissected-leaf-kind of many colours as blue white red and purple The Mountain which make this Promontory is called by the Greeks Maurovouni MAUROVOUNI or Black Mountains Whence we passed to another Point in an Hour and half called Mauromidie but antiently Arrexius Promontory Cape MAUROMIDIE where there is another Lake or Fishing-place having communication with the Sea called by the Venetians Pescaria del Papa On this Point is the Ruins of a Watch-Tower perhaps in use when the Venetians were Masters of this Country This Place hath the advantage of a fair Prospect looking full into the Gulph of Lepanto North-East with the two Castles at its Mouth Patras almost at the bottom of the Bay made by this and the Morean Promontory of the Gulph of Lepanto or Corinth Messa-longia North a Promontory of Epirus North-West with a little Island called Courtzolari Cephalonia West Zant South-West and Castle-Tornese South From hence we crossed over to see Mr Pendarves then lading of Currans on an English Ship called the Merchant Factor riding near Messa-longia and Nathaligo These are two little Towns built like Venice upon little Islands in the Shallows of the Sea near the Shore of the antient Aetolia No Ship or Bark can come near them by four or five Miles nor to them at all unless they will fetch them in their little flat-bottom'd Boats made of one piece of Wood they therefore call Monoxylo as afore-said In which also they bring their Currans aboard coming to and fro in calm Weather as thick as Bees to a Hive Both these Towns consist for the greatest part of Christians free from the Irregular Insults of the Turks But have a Turkish Veivode over them Thence after we had the satisfaction of seeing our good Friend and of recruiting our Purses the thirtieth of December we proceeded more chearfully on our Voyage Keeping along the Shore of Aetolia we observed extraordinary great Flights of Pelicans and other Fowls and not far thence met with a Boat that was a fishing of whom besides a good dish of Fish we bought we observed among the rest a kind of Fish the Italians call Fulpo and the Greeks Octopodia because at one end spreading themselves abroad it is divided into eight long Points each of which points are full of Knobs like Warts whereby it sticketh fast to any thing it toucheth In the Center of these Feet is its place for the Evacuation of its Excrements smelling as sweet as Musk. The other end is a round lumpy Substance filled with its Garbadge whence the Italian Name seemeth to be taken Here we saw also another sort of Fish of near a foot long with a very sharp Beak and slender They call it a Needle Fish Another we saw something like an Eele for shape but the Flesh tasteth and is coloured like a Whiting They call it Grongo Another they call Barbouni which I take to be the same with our Gournits only their Beards are longer and are of a red colour like a boyled Lobster their Scales are also all in one and hard From this Point we crossed over to Patras leaving on our right hand the Promontory Mauromidie and about a dozen Miles from Patras a Town in sight of it called Mamminizza situated upon both sides of a River two or three Miles from the Sea This Village was in all likelihood the antient City Olenus and the River the antient Pirus which Pausanias puts about ten Miles from Patras Nearer to Patras one leaves the old Fortress of Achaia now slighted and as my Companion observes a Torrent whose Channel was then dry called now by the Greeks Leucas and by Pausanias Glaucos all which Places are in the Achaia of Peloponnesus To the other hand on the Romanian Shore are two very high-piked Mountains the first of which is called Gallata from a Town behind it bearing that Name which Monsieur Spon thinketh to be the antient Calydon Beyond the other Mountain we had the two Castles at the Mouth of the Gulph in sight Of Calydon Pausanias telleth this sad Love story Coresus the Priest of Bacchus fell in love with a fair Virgin of the Town called Callirhoe who the more she was courted the more she despised the Priest so that neither his rich Presents Vows nor Tears could move her to the least Compassion This at last made the Priest run in despair to the Image of Bacchus for succour imploring Vengeance from him Bacchus made it appear that he heard his Prayers by a Disease he sent on the Town which seemed a kind of Drunken Madness of which mad Fit the People died in abundance Whereupon they sent Deputies from Calydon to the Oracle of Jupiter of Dodona which was in reputation in those days amongst the Etolians Acarnanians and all the Country of Epirus to know what they should do to be freed from that woeful Malady Answer was given That Coresus must sacrifice Callirhoe or some other Person that would dedicate himself in her stead to appease the Anger of Bacchus The Virgin when she could no way obtain her Life of her Relations was brought to the Altar adorn'd as Victims used to be to be sacrificed by her Lover Coresus Whose wonderful Love even at that present so conquered all past thoughts of Revenge that instead of her he slew himself and became a Victim to generous Love instead of being any longer the Priest of Bacchus The Virgin also relenting of her Cruelty to him went and slew her self at a Fountain without the Town from thence called by her name Callirhoe But whether Gallata or the Ruins of another Town not far from thence towards Messalongia which Sr Clement Harby told me he saw there be the antient Calydon I cannot determin unless I had seen them both We arrived at Patras that Afternoon early Patras is situated upon an Hill PATRAS CERYNEA not above half a Mile from the Sea at the foot of an high Mountain which I think was called Cerynea with a Valley between It hath a Castle on the highest Point of the Hill and a Descent every way into a fruitful Valley well planted with Orange Limons and Citrons so much esteemed for their delicious Taste M. Pausa l. vii p. 448. Patras was the antient as well as the modern Name of the Place and is undoubtedly the same with that of the Romans being made a Roman Colony by Augustus Caesar after it had been for some time destroyed by more antient Fates Pausanias telleth That it was first built by one Eumelus Native of the Country who having received the manner how to build from Triptolemus as likewise Corn and how to sow it named the Place he built from his tilling the Ground Aroa Afterwards when the Ionians were driven out of the Peloponnesian Achaia one called Patreus enlarged it so that Aroa and its Walls were contained within the new Walls he made about it and the City
called by his own Name Patras After this it came again to be depopulated by occasion of their sending Succour to the Etolians against the French by whom the Etolians being in many Combats defeated the rest that escaped dispersed themselves into several Cities thereabout until the time of Augustus Caesar who being moved either with the Conveniency of the Haven or some other private Reason commanded the People of sundry Towns round about Patras to come and abide there Which that they might more willingly do he adorned the Place with all the Priviledges of a Roman Colony calling it Colonia Augusti Aroa Patrensis as may be confirmed by divers Medals In my small Collection I have two The first is of Augustus with this Reverse A Figure standing in a Roman Habit with a pair of Oxen before him and these Letters above Col. A. A. and under Patrens which are the Abbreviation of Colonia Augusti Aroa Patrensis or Patrensium that is Aroa of the Patrassians the Colony or Plantation of Augustus Another I have of the Emperour Domitian which is the only one I have seen of that Reverse and never yet engraven It hath for Reverse a Pillar upon a large Basis which seemeth to me to be of the Ionick Order with a Statue upon it and round about these Letters Col. A. A. Patrens which are to be interpreted as the former And by it may be learned That Domitian adorned the Town with some Magnificent Pillar on the top of which he placed his own Statue And not long since the French Vice-Consul there found one in his Garden of the Emperour Claudius which had for Reverse the Military Ensigns of the Romans with the same Letters as before only XXII added which signifieth no more than that the Twenty second Legion was at that time there As to the State of this Town in the Roman times Pausanias hath given an ample Account what now remaineth of it is but little in proportion Although for that the destroying Turks undoubtedly ought to bear the blame and not the Christians as may appear from the many ruined Churches in all its antient bounds which reached as far as the Sea Westwards but not so far East And having still enjoyed the Honour of an Arch-Bishoprick whose Pastor used in antient times to have the Thirty-second Place in the Councils or general Assemblies of the Church The present Arch-Bishop is called Daniel whom we went to pay our Respects to He told us That he had a thousand Churches in his Province which extends it self over all the Western Parts of Morea as far as Corone There was another Metropolitan then with him to wit the Metropolitan of Napoli of Romagnia called by the Greeks Anaplia The two other Arch-Bishopricks are Corinth and Misitra situate not above four Miles from the antient Ruins of Lacedaemon as Mr Vernon affirmeth The highest Point of the Hill whereon the City standeth hath a Castle kept by the Turks and commanded then by one Hebby-Bey Within it formerly were the Temples of Diana Li-pathria and of Minerva Panachaida or the Protectress of all Achaia The Monument also of Euripilus Son of Euaemon who was at the sacking of Troy of which see Pausanias What now remains of them in the Castle I can give no Account because we were not permitted to enter into it Pausanias speaketh of many more in the Market-place But now there is only the Cathedral Church to be seen turned into a Mosque We lodged at Sr Clement Harby's House Consul of the Morea and Zant. He was not there at this time but as we returned he was and shewed us many things we had not before seen The first Evening we arrived there we went to see the Church dedicated to St John St George and St Nicholas a little descending the Hill Westwards where we heard the Greek Vespers worse sung than Hopkin's Psalms used to be in some of our Country Churches It is a very antient Church but hath ill-favour'd Arches within though sustained by beautiful Pillars of the Ionique Order On the out-side among many scraps of Marble is the Basso relievo of a Peacock sitting upon a three-leav'd Tree I guess to be Anagyris which is not wanting in those Parts Whence we judged also That the Church was built out of the Ruins of some Temple of Juno which might have been thereabouts At the Door of this Church is a Stone which being struck by another Stone sendeth out a stinking Bituminous Savour This the Greeks make a Miracle telling That the Judge when he condemn'd St Andrew sate upon that Stone which hath ever since had that ill Scent But I have smelt the like smell in other Stones when broken especially a little long Stone found about Oxford amongst the Gravel The report of St Andrew That he staid a great while at Patras and that before he suffered Martyrdom there he converted a King of the Morea meaning perhaps no more than some Roman Governour of that Province They had antiently several Churches here dedicated to him one of which we went next day to see situated near the Sea-side which is indeed a very old ruinous Building There are two great vaulted Rooms standing parallel to each other in it and the Foundations of two more appear on each side which together are Forty six paces and two feet wide One of them which I guess was properly made use of for a Church hath part of a Cuppalo yet standing on the East end with great Niches in it for Statues and many lesser in other Parts Which made me then believe that it had been more antiently either a Roman Temple or Bath for by it I observed a Fountain of fresh Water although it is but a stone's-cast from the Sea And Pausanias confirms me in the same saying That the Temple of Neptune and Ceres were situate in the lower Parts of the Town and that this last had a Fountain without the Wall by which the Events of sick Persons were known by hanging up a Looking-glass in such sort by a Thred that it touched the Water only on the Back-side in which Glass the sick Persons looking saw Figures which shewed what they must trust to Returning thence South-Eastwards towards the Town we past by the Ruins of a round Temple of Brick masoned together with a very hard Cement and the Building very massive over against which Northwards is a demolished Greek Church dedicated to the Holy Apostles which hath been sustained by Marble Pillars of the Ionique Order Not far from hence appear some Parts of the antient Walls of the Town One of those Heaps of Ruins may have been the Temple of Cybele the Mother of the Gods wherein Attes also was honoured But we could not find the Theater nor the Odeum nor many other Temples which Pausanias speaks of Under the Wall of the Town is a Place that seemeth to have been a Circus or Stadium or perhaps a Naumachia for Water Combats For the Consul told me That many in the