especially being contrived in Furnaces besides in chase their Stern is that part of the Ship they most use in fight but in a Man of War they fight most with their Prow and it is very troublesome to the use of his Ordnance and very dangerous lying over the Powder room some do place it over the Hatches way but that as the Stewards room are ever to be contrived according to the Ships imployment c. Calking is beating Okum into every seam or betwixt Plank and Plank and Okum is old Ropes torn in pieces like Towze Match or Hurds of Flax which being close beat into every seam with a Calking-Iron and a Mallet which is a hammer of wood and an Iron chissel being well Payed over with hot pitch doth make her more tight then it is possible by joyning Plank to Plank Graving is only under water a white mixture of Tallow Sope and Brimstone or Train-oil Rosin and Brimstone boiled together is the best to preserve her calking and make her glib or slippery to pass the water and when it is decayed by weeds or Barnacles which is a kind of fish like a long red worm will eat thorow all the Planks if she be not sheathed which is as casing the Hull under water with Tar and Haire close covered over with thin boords fast nailed to the Hull which though the Worm pierce she cannot endure the Tar Breaming her is but washing or burning of all the filth with reeds or broom either in a dry-dock or upon her Careene which is to make her so light as you may bring her to lie on the one side so much as may be in the calmest water you can but take heed you overset her not and this is the best way to breame Ships of great Burthen or those have but foursharp Flores for fear of brusing or oversetting Parsling is most used upon the Decks and half Decks which is to take a list of Canvas so long as the seam is you would parsle being first well calked then pour hot pitch upon it and it will keep out the water from passing the seams There remains nothing now as I can remember to the building the Hull of the Ship nor the definition of her most proper terms but only feeling the Cabins and such other parts as you please and to bind an end with all things fitting for the Sea as you may read in the Covenants betwixt the Carpenter and the Owner which are thus If you would have a Ship built of 400 Tuns she requires a plank of 4 inches if 300 Tuns 3 inches small Ships 2 inches but none less For clamps middle bands and sleepers they be all of six inch plank for binding within The rest for the sparring up of the works of square threâ— inch plank Lay the beams of the Orlope if she be 400 Tuns at ten foot deep in howle and all the beams to be bound with two knees at each end and a stardard knee at every beams end upon the Orlope all the Orlope to be laid with square three inch plank and all the planks to be tree-nailed to the beams Six foot should be between the beams of the Deck and Orlope and ten poâ—ts on each side upon the lower Orlope all the binding between them should be with three inch or two inch-plank and the upper Deck should be laid with so many beams as are fitting with knees to bind them laying that Deck with spruce Deal of thirty foot long the sap cut of and two inches thick for it is better then any other Then for the Captains Cabin or great Cabin the Steerage the half Deck the Round-house the Fore-castle and to bind an end with the Capstern and all things fitting for the Sea the Smiths work the carving joyning and painting excepted are the principal things I remembred to be observed for a Charter-party betwixt the Merchant the Master and the Owner you have Presidents of all sorts in most Scriveners shops CHAP. III. How to proportion the Masts and Yards for a Ship by her Beam and Keel WHen a Ship is built she should be masted wherein is a great deal of experience to be used so well as art for if you Over maste her either in length or bigness she will lie too much down by a wind and labour too much a hull and that is called a Taunt-mast but if either too small or too short she is Under-masted or low-masted and cannot bear so great a sail as should give her her true way For a man of war a well ordered Taunt-mast is best but for a long voyage a short-mast will bear more Canvas and is less subject to bear by the board Their Rules are divers because no Artist can build a Ship so truly to proportion neither set her Masts but by the trial of her condition they may be impaired or amended suppose a Ship of 300 Tuns be 29 foot at the Beam if her main mast be 24 inches diameter the length of it must be 24 yards for every inch in thickness is allowed a yard in length and the fore-mast 22 inches in thickness must be 22 yards in length your Bowle-spret both in length and thickness must be equal to the fore-mast the Misen 17 yards in length and 17 inches diameter But the Rule most used is to take the â…˜ parts of the breadth of the Ship and multiply that by three it will give you so many foot as your Main-mast should be in length the bigness or thickness will bear it also allowing an inch for a yard but if it be A made-mast or arme-mast that is greater than one Tree it must be more for example suppose the Ships breadth 30 foot four fifths of 30 foot are 24 foot so you find the main Mast must be 24 yards long for every yard is 3 foot 24 inches thorow allowing an inch to every yard The fore-Mast is to be in length â…˜ of the main Mast which will be 20 yards wanting one â…˜ part of a yard and 20 inches thorow The Boultspret must ever be equal with the fore-Mast The Misen-Mast half the length of the Main-Mast which will be 12 yards long and 12 inches diameter Now as you take the proportion of the Mast from the Beam or breadth of the Ship so do you the length of the yards from the Keel These Masts have each their Steps in the Ship and their Partners at every Dock where thorow they pass to the Keel being strong Timbers bolted to the Beams in circling the Masts to keep them steady in their steps fast wedged for rowing yet some Ships will not sail so well as when it doth play a little but that is very dangerous in foul weather Their Cotes are pieces of tarred Canvas or a Tarpawling put about them and the Rudder to keep the water out At the top of the fore Mast and main-Mast are spliced Cheeks or thick
Priming Iron to be two Inches and by the Table 3 Inches it shews that the Chamber differs from the true Bore on each side one Inch so that if the Bore of the Piece be six Inches high the Chamber is but 4 Inches high This the Gunner ought to examine and enquire into that he may make his Cartridges to load his Piece withal accordingly CHAP. XI How to know whether a Piece of Ordnance be truly bored or not when it is in its Carriage and lying Horizontally PRovide a Pike-staff which let be about one foot longer than the Bore of the Piece from the Touch. hole and at the end thereof fasten a Rammer head that will justly fill all the Bore under the Touch-hole and at the other end of the Staff bore a hole big enough to put through a Rod of Iron about 16 or 18 Inches long and at the end of the Rod hang a Bullet or Weight of about 7 or 8 pound for this Weight thus disposed will cause the same part of the Rammer-head to lye always with the same part uppermost Put this Instrument thus prepared into the Piece letting the Iron Rod and Bullet hang perpendicularly then putting your Priming-Iron in at the Touch-hole make a mark upon the Rammer-head This done draw your Instrument out of the Gun and lay it upon a long Form or Table letting the Rod and Bullet hang over the end of the Table as it did before out of the mouth of the Piece Then observe whether the mark you made upon the head of the Rammer when it was in the Piece be just on the uppermost part of the same when it lyeth upon the Table and if it be the Bore of the Piece lyeth neither to the right or left hand But if you find it to lie half or a quarter of an Inch either to the right or left hand so much lyeth the Bore either to the right or left and the Piece in shooting must be ordered and charged accordingly By what is here said may be found whether the Piece incline towards the Right or Left hand but to know whether it lie also upwards or downwards and not in the middle Then to find which way Take the Diameter of the Piece at the Touch-hole as is before taught Then take a piece of Wyre and bend it a little at the end that it may catch at the Mettal when it is drawing out at the Touch hole This Wyre thus prepared put it in at the Touch-hole till it touch the bottom of the Metal in the Chamber and holding it there make a mark upon it just even with the Touch hole then pull up the Wyre till it catch at the Metal on the top of the Chamber and make another mark upon it the distance between these two marks is the just Diameter of the Chamber And the distance between the first mark and the end of the Wyre half the Diameter of the Chamber of the Piece being substracted will leave half the Diameter of the Piece if the Piece be truly Bored But if this number be more than half the Diameter of the Piece before found at the Touch hole than the Bore lyeth too far from the Touch-hole and the upper part of the Metal is the thickest but if lesser then the under part of the Piece hath the most Metal Example Suppose I find the Diameter of my Gun to be at the Touch-hole 12 Inches then with my Wyre I find the Diameter of the Bore to be 4 Inches and to the bottom of the Metal it is 7 Inches and an half now half the Diameter of the Bore being 2 Inches that added to the second mark upon the Wyre or substracted from 7 Inches and a half the first Mark leaves 5 Inches and a half which is less than half the Diameter of the Gun at the Touch-hole first found by half an Inch and therefore the greatest part of the Metal is under the Bore of the Piece and the Gun likeliest to break above And here note If you were to make a Dispart for such a Gun as this you are to make it half an Inch shorter then it will be found to be by taking the Circumference and finding the Diameters of the Rings at the Base and Muzzle And the like is to be observed if the difference were greater or the upper part of the Metal had been greater CHAP. XII Concerning Guns that are not truly bored How to know what quantity of Powder must be allowed for their Loading SUppose the Diameter of the Metal of a Piece at the Touch-hole be 16 Inches and the Diameter at the Bore 5 Inches and a quarter the Weight of the Piece 4850 pound Now such a Piece will require 11 pound of Powder for its Loading But I find the Bore to be an Inch out of its place thence I conclude the thinest part of the Metal is 4 Inches and half a quarter and the thickest side 6 Inches and half a quarter by which it appears that one side is two Inches thicker than the other Now to find what quantity of Powder will be a sufficient Load for such a Piece it must be computed from the thinest part of the Metal which is here 4. 375 Inches which doubled is 8. 75 Inches to which add the Diameter at the Bore 5. 25 Inches the sum is 14. 00 Inches which call the lessor Diameter and 16 the greater Diameter And to find the quantity of Powder by Arithmetick this is the Proportion As the Cube of 16 the greater Diameter 4096 Is to the Cube of 14 the lesser Diameter 2744 So is 11 pound the Powder to be allowed if the Piece had been truly Bored To 7. 36 pound the Powder to be allowed to the false Bored Piece For multiply 16 by 16 it produceth 256 and that again by 16 and it produceth 4096 which is the Cube of 16 the Greater Diameter Also multiply 14 by 14 it produceth 196 and that again by 14 produceth 2744 which is the Cube of 14 the Lesser Diameter Then Multiply 2744 the Cube of the Lesser Diameter by 11 the Powder to be allowed if the Piece had been truly bored the product will be 30184 which number divided by 4096 the Cube of the Greater Diameter gives in the Quotient 7. 36 pounds of Powder which will be a sufficient Charge for such a false bored Gun CHAP. XIII How to discover what Cracks Flaws or Honeycombs are in any Piece of Ordnance AS soon as ever you have discharged any Piece of Ordnance let one be ready to cover the Mouth of the Piece close and stop the Touch-hole at the same time by which means you may know if any Cracks or Flaws do go through the Metal for if any such be a visible smoke will come through those Flaws or Cracks Otherwise In a clear Sun shine day with a piece of polished Steel or plain Looking-Glass reflect the Beams of the Sun into the hollow Cylinder of the Piece so shall you have a clear shining
two hooks fastened to the end of a rope with a noose like that the Brewers use to sling or carry their barrels on and those serve also to take in or out Hogsheads or any other commodities A Parbunkel is two ropes that have at each end a noose or lump that being crossed you may set any vessel that hath but one head upon them bringing but the loopes over the upper end of the Cask fix but the tackle to them and then the Vessel will stand straight in the midst to heave out or take in without spilling Puddings are ropes nailed round to the Yards arms close to the end a pretty distance one form another to save the Robbins from galling upon the Yards or to serve the anchors ring to save the clinch of the Cable from galling And the Robbins are little lines reeved into the eylot holes of the Sail under the Head-ropes to make fast the Sail to the Yard for in stead of tying Sea-men always say make fast Head lines are the ropes that make all the Sails fast to the Yard Furling-lines are small lines made fast to the Top-sail Top-gallant-sail and the Missen-yards arms The Missen hath but one called the Smiting line the other on each side one and by these we farthel or bind up the Sails The Brales are small ropes reeved through blocks seased on each side the ties and come down before the Sail and at the very skirt are fastened to the Creengles with them we furle or farthel our Sails a cross and they belong only to the two Courses and the Missen to hale up the Brales or brale up the Sail is all one Creengles are little ropes spliced into the Boltropes of all Sails belonging to the Main and Fore-mast to which the Bolings-bridles are made fast and to hold by when we shake off a Bonnet Boltropes is that rope is sewed about every Sail soft and gently twisted for the better sewing and handling the Sails Bunt lines is but a small rope made fast to the midst of the Boltrope to a Creengle reeved through a small Block which is seased to the Yard to trice or draw up the bunt of the Sail when you farthel or make it up The Clew-garnet is a rope made fast to the Clew of the Sail and from thence runs in a block seased to the middle of the Yard which in Furling doth hale up the Clew of the Sail close to the middle of the Yard and the Clew-line is the same to the Top-sails top-gallant and Spret-sails as the Clew-garnet is to the Main and Fore-sails The Clew of a Sail is the lower corner next the Sheet and Tackes and stretcheth somewhat goaring or sloping from the square of the Sail and according to the Goaring she is said to spread a great or a little Clew Tackes are great ropes which having a wall-knot at one end seased into the Clew of the Sail and so reeved first through the Chestres and then cometh in at a hole in the Ships sides this doth carry forward the clew of the Sail to make it stand close by a wind The Sheats are bent to the Clews of all Sails in the low-sails they hale aft the Clew of the Sails but in Top-sails they serve to hale them home that is to bring the Clew close to the Yards-arm The Braces belong to all yards but the Missen every yard hath two reeved at their ends thorough two pendants and those are to square the yards or traverse them as you please The Boling is made fast to the leech of the Sail about the midst to make it stand the sharper or closer by a winde it is fastened by two three or four Ropes like a Crows foot to as many parts of the Sail which is called the Boling-bridles only the Missen-boling is fastened to the lower end of the Yard this Rope belongs to all Sails except the Spret-sail and Spret-sail Top-sail which not having any place to hale it forward by they cannot use those Sails by a wind Sharp the main Boling is to hale it taut Hale up the Boling is to pull it harder forward on check or ease the Boling is to let it be more slack Lee-fanngs is a Rope reeved into the Creengles of the courses when we would hale in the bottom of the Sail to lash on a bonnet or take in the Sail and Reeving is but drawing a Rope through a block or oylet to run up and down Leech-lines are small Ropes made fast to the Leech of the top-sails for they belong to no other and are reeved into a block at the Yard close by the Top-sail ties to hale in the Leech of the Sail when you take them in The Leech of a Sail is the outward side of a skirt of a Sail from the earing to the clew and the Earing is that part of the Bunt-rope which at all the four corners of the Sail is left open as it were a ring The two upmost parts are put over the ends of the Yards-arms and so made fast to the Yards and the lowermost are seased or bent to the Sheats and tacks into the clew The Lifts are two Ropes which belong to all Yards-arms to top the Yards that is to make them hang higher or lower at your pleasure But the top-sail Lifts do serve for Sheats to the Top gallant-Yards the haling them is called the topping the Lifts as Top-a-starboard or Top-a-port Legs are small Ropes put through the Bolt-ropes of the main and fore-sail near to a foot in length spliced each end into the other in the Leech of the Sail having a little eye whereunto the Martnets are fastened by two hitches and the end seased into the standing parts of the Martnets which are also small lines like Crow-feet reeved through a block at the Top mast-head and so comes down by the Mast to the Deck but the Top-sail Martnets are made fast to the head of the Top gallant mast and cometh but to the top where it is haled and called the Top-martnets they serve to bring that part of the Leech next the Yards-arm up close to the Yard Latchets are small lines sowed in the Bonnets and Drablers like loops to lash or make fast the Bonnet to the course or the course to the Drabler which we call lashing the Bonnet to the course or the Drabler to the Bonnet The Loofe-hook is a tackle with two hooks one to hitch into a chingle of the main or fore-Sail in the Bolt-rope in the Leech of the Sail by the clew and the other to strap spliced to the Chestres to bouse or pull down the Sail to succour the tacks in a stiff-gale of wind or take off or put on a Bonnet or a Drabler which are two short sails to take off or put to the fore Course
or the main which is the fore Sail or main-Sail The Knave-line is a Rope hath one end fastened to the cross-trees and so comes down by the ties to the Rams-head to which is seased a small piece of wood some two foot long with a hole in the end whereunto the line is reeved and brought to the Ships side and haled taut to the Railes to keep the ties and Halyards from turning about one another when they are new Knettels are two Rope-yarnes twisted together and a knot at each end whereunto to sease a block a rope or the like Rope-yarns are the Yarnes of any rope untwisted they serve to sarve small ropes or make Sinnet Mats Plats or Caburns and make up the Sails at the Yards-arms Sinnet is a string made of Rope-yarn commonly of two four six eight or nine strings platted in three parts which being beat flat they use it to sarve ropes or Mats That which we call a Panch are broad clouts woven of Thrums and Sinnet together to save things from galling about the main and fore-Yards at the Ties and also from the Masts and upon the Boltspret Loufe Beake head or Gunwaile to save the clewes of the Sails from galling or fretting Caburne is a small line made of Spun-yarn to make a bend of two Cables or to sease the Tackels or the like Seasing is to bind fast any ropes together with some small rope-yarne Marline is any line to a block or any Tackle Pendant Garnet or the like There is also a rope by which the Boat doth ride by the Ships side which we call a Seasen To sarve any rope with Plats or Sinnet is but to lay Sinnet Spun-yarn Rope-yarn or a piece of Canvas upon the rope and then rowl it fast to keep the rope from galling about the Shrowds at the head of the Masts the Cable in the Hawse the flook of the Anchor the Boat-rope or any thing Spunyarn is nothing but rope-yarn made small at the ends and so spun one to another so long as you will with a winch Also Caskets are but small ropes of Sinnet made fast to the gromits or rings upon the Yards the longest are in the midst of the Yards betwixt the Ties and are called the brest Caskets hanging on each side the Yard in small lengths only to bind up the Sail when it is furled Marling is a small line of untwisted hemp very pliant and well tarred to sease the ends of Ropes from raveling out or the sides of the blocks at their arses or if the Sail rent out of the Boltrope they will make it fast with Marlin till they have leisure to mend it The Marling spike is but a small piece of Iron to splice ropes together or open the Bolt-rope when you sew the sail Splicing is so to let one ropes end into another they shall be as firm as if they were but one rope and this is called a round Splice but the cut Splice is to let one into another with as much distance as you will and yet be strong and undo when you will Now to make an end of this discourse with a Knot you are to know Sea-men use three the first is called the Wall-knot which is a round knob so made with the strouds or layes of a rope it cannot slip the Sheets Tackes and Stoppers use this knot The Boling knot is also so firmly made and fastened by the bridles into the creengles of the Sails they will break or the Sail split before it will slip The last is the Sheepshank which is a knot they cast them upon a runner or Tackle when it is too long to take in the goods and by this knot they can shorten a Rope without cutting it as much as they list and presently undo it again and yet never the worse CHAP. VI. What doth belong to the Boats and Skiffe with the definition of all those Thirteen Ropes which are only properly called Ropes belonging to a Ship and the Boat and their use OF Boats there are divers sorts but those belonging to Ships are called either the Long-Boat or Ships Boat which should be able to weigh her Sheet-Anchor those will live in any reasonable Sea especially the Long-Boat Great Ships have also other small Boats called Shallops and Skiffs which are with more ease and less trouble rowed to and again upon any small occasion To a Boat belongs a Mast and Sail a Stay-sheet and Halyard Rudder and Rudder-Irons as to a Ship also in any Discovery they use a Tarpawling which is a good piece of Canvas washed over with Tar to cover the Bailes or Hoopes over the Stern of their Boat where they lodg in an Harbour which is that you calla Tilt covered with Wadmall in your Wherries or else an Awning which is but the Boats-sail or some piece of an old Sail brought over the Yard and Stay and boomed out with the Boat-hook so spread over their heads which is also much used as well a shore as in a Ship especially in hot Countries to keep men from the extremity of heat or wet which is very oft infectious Thoughts are the Seats whereon the Rowers sit and Thowles small Pines put into little holes in the Gunwails or upon the Boats-side against which they bear the Oars when they row they have also a David and also in Long-boats a windless to weigh the Anchor by which is with more ease than the Ship can The two arching-timbers against the boat head are called Carlings Man the boat is to put a Gang of men which is a company into her they are commonly called the Coxswains Gang who hath the charge of her Free the Boat is to bail or cast out the water Trim the Boat is to keep her straight Wind the Boat is to bring her head the other way Hold water is to stay her Forbear is to hold still any Oar you are commanded either on the broad or whole side A fresh Spell is to relieve the Rowers with another Gang. Give the Boat more way for a dram of the Bottel who says Amends one and all Vea vea vea vea vea that is they pull all strongly together The Entering rope is tyed by the Ships side to hold by as you go up the entering Ladder cleats or wailes The Bucket-rope that is tied to the Bucket by which you hale and draw water up by the Ships side The Bolt-ropes are those wherein the Sails are sowed The Port-ropes hale up the Ports of the Ordnance The Ieare-rope is a piece of a Hawser made fast to the Main-yard another to the Fore-yard close to the Ties â—eeved through a Block which is seased close to the top and so comes down by the Mast and is reeved through another Block at the bottom of the Mast close by the Deck
stick or a straw that is strait into the Touch-hole to the lower part of the Cylinder or Concave which is the Bore of the Piece and cut it off close by the metal and then apply it in the same manner to the mouth and it will exactly shew you the difference which being set upon the muzzle of the Piece with a little Clay Pitch or Wax it will be as the Pin of any Piece is to the sight level to the Carnouse or Britch of the Piece otherwise you may give her allowance according to your judgment Taper bored is when a Piece is wider at the mouth than towards the britch which is dangerous if the Bullet go not home to burst her Honycombed is when she is ill cast or over much worn she will be rugged within which is dangerous for a Cross-bar Shot to catch hold by or any rag of he wadding being a fire and sticking there may fire the next Charge you put in her and you may find it if she be Taper-bored either with a crooked wyer at the end of a long-staff by scratching up and down to see where you can catch any hold or a light Candle at the end of a staff thrust up and down to see if you can see any fault Britchings are the Ropes by which you lash your Ordnance fast to the Ships-side in foul weather Chambers is a Charge made of Brass or Iron which we use to put in at the britch of a Sling or Murtherer containing just so much powder as will drive away the case of stones or shot or any thing in her In a great Piece we call that her Chamber so far as the Powder doth reach when she is loaded A Cartrage is a Bag of Canvass made upon a frame or a round piece of wood somewhat less than the Bore of the Piece they make them also of Paper they have also Cartrages or rather Cases for Cartrages made of Latin to keep the Cartrages in which is to have no more Powder in them than just the Charge of your Piece and they are closely covered in those Cases of Lattin to keep them dry and from any mischances by fire and are far more ready and safer than your Ladles or Budgebarrels A Budgebarrel is a little Barrel made of Lattin filled with Powder to carry from place to place for fear of fire in the cover it hath a long neck to fill the Ladles withal without opening A Ladle is a long-staff with a piece of thin Copper at the end like half a Cartrage in breadth and length so much as will hold no more Powder than the due Charge for the Piece it belongs to A Spunge is such another staff with a Piece of a Lambs skin at the end about it to thrust up and down the Piece to take off the dust moisture or sparks of fire if any remain in her And a Rammer is a bob of wood at the other end to ram home the Powder and the Waddings Waddings is Okum old Clouts or Straw put after the Powder and the Bullet A Case is made of two Pieces of hollow wood joyned together like two half Cartrages fit to put into the Bore of a Piece and a Case-shot is any kind of small Bullets Nails old Iron or the like to put into the Case to shoot out of the Ordnance or Murderers these will do much mischief when we lie board and board but for Spunges and Rammers they use now a stiff Rope a little more than the length of the Piece which you may turn and wind within board as you will with much more ease and safety than the other Round-shot is a round Bullet for any Piece Cross-bar-shot is also a Round-shot but it hath a long spike of Iron cast with it as if it did go through the midst of it the ends whereof are commonly armed for fear of bursting the Piece which is to bind a little Okum in a little Canvass at the end of each Pike Trundle-shot is only a bolt of Iron sixteen or eighteen Inches in length at both ends sharp pointed and about a handful from each end a round broad bowl of lead according to the Bore of the Piece cast upon it Langrel-shot runs loose with a Shackel to be shortened when you put it into the Piece and when it flies out it doth spread it self it hath at the end of either Bar a half Bullet either of Lead or Iron Chain shot is two Bullets with a Chain betwixt them and some are contrived round as in a Ball yet will spread in flying their full length in breadth all these are used when you are near a Ship to shoot down Masts Yards Shrouds tear the Sails spoil the men or any thing that is above the Decks Fire-works are divers and of many Compositions as Arrows trimmed with Wild-fire to stick in the Sails or Ships-side shot burning Pikes of Wild-fire to strike burning into a Shipe side to fire her There is also divers sorts of Granadoes some to break and fly in abundance of pieces every way as will your Brass-balls and Earthen-pots which when they are covered with Quartered Bullets stuck in Pitch and the Pots filled with good Powder in a crowd of people will make an incredible slaughter some will burn under water and never extinguish till the stuff be consumed some only will burn and fume out a most stinking poyson smoke some being but only an Oil being anointed on any thing made of dry wood will take fire by the heat of the Sun when the Sun shines hot There is also a Powder which being laid in like manner upon any thing subject to burn will take fire if either any rain or water light upon it but those inventions are bad on shore but much worse at Sea and are naught because so dangerous and not easie to be quenched and their practice worse because they may do as much mischief to a friend as to an enemy therefore I will leave them as they are There are also divers sorts of Powder the Serpentine is like dust and weak and will not keep at Sea but be moist The common sort is great corned Powder but gross and only used in great Ordnance Your fine corned Powder for hand Guns is in goodness as your Salt-peter is often refined and from ten pence a pound to eighteen pence a Pound A Tomkin is a round piece of wood put into the Pieces mouth and covered with Tallow and a Fid or Fuse a little Okum made like a Nail put in at the Touch hole and covered with a thin Lead bound above it to keep the Powder dry in the Piece Shackels are a kind of Rings but not round made like them at the Hatches corners by which we take them up and lay them down but bigger fixed to the midst of the Ports within board through
Sulphur in Meal two pound Rozen three pound Turpentine one pound Vert-degreace half a pound Bolearmonick 5 Ounces Bay Salt six Ounces Colofonia 3 Ounces Arsnick 2 Ounces Mix these very well together This Composition when fired will burn very furiously with a Blew and Greenish colour The Cases Bags or Balls which you fill with this Composition must when filled be Armed about with strong Twine or Cord and then covered over with this mixture melted in a Pot. Pitch 4 pound Lin-seed Oyl one pound Turpentine 5 Ounces Sulphur one pound Tar 5 Ounces Tallow one pound Your Fire-works thus prepared are fit for service at any time but when this outer Coating is cold bore two holes with an Iron Bodkin filling the same with fine Mealed Powder putting in a small stick at each hole which take out when you prime them for firing Fire-works made of the Composition and Arming as aforesaid may be ordered so as to be thrown out of mens hands shot out of a Musket or out of a Cross or Long Bow which may be of good use to fire Sails Thatched Houses Stacks of Corn or Hay c. To make a Composition that will burn and feed upon the water Take of Mastick half a pound White Frankincense Gum Sandrake Quick Lime Brimstone Camphire Gun powder of each one pound and a half Rozen one pound Salt-Peter four pounds and a half All these mixed together when fired will burn violently and feed upon the water To make a Composition that will burn under the Water Take of Brimstone one pound Gun-powder ten Ounces Salt-Peter one pound and a half Camphire beaten with Sulphur and Quick-silver Mix these well together with Oyl of Peter or Lin-seed Oyl boyled fill a Ball or other Case of Wood or Tin with this Composition Arm it as before and ballast it with Lead at the bottom make a small hole at the top and fire it well and throw it into the Water FINIS OF THE MEASURING OF Heights Depths and Distances I. How to take the Height of a Tree Tower Steeple or other upright Building by the Length of the Shadow thereof Fig. I. LEt BA be a Castle-Wall or the like and the Sun shining casts the Shadow thereof upon plain ground to C now having a Walking-staffe in my hand I set that upright at the end of the shadow of the Wall at C and I find that my Staffe casts its shadow to E where I make a Mark as also another at C then measuring my Staffe I find it to be 38 Inches long and measuring the length of the shadow thereof CE I find that to be 46 Inches Then Imeasure the length of the Shadow of the Castle Wall AC and I find that to be 30 foot which is 360 Inches Now for the height of the Castle Wall you must work by the Rule of Proportion thus Saying As CE the Length of the Shadow of my Staffe 46 Inches Is in proportion to the Length of Staffe CD 38 Inches So is AC the Length of the Shadow of the Wall 360 Inches To 435 30 â—8 Inches for the height of the Castle Wall which you may call 436 Inches For If you multiply 46 the Length of the Shadow of the Staffe by 360 the Length of the Shadow of the Wall the Product will be 16560 which being divided by 38 Inches the length of the Staffe the Quotient will be 435 10 18 Inches which reduced into Feet is 36 foot 3 Inches and 30 38 of an Inch which you may call 4 Inches and so high is the Castle Wall II. How to take the height of a Watch-Tower by the Shadow when you cannot come to the bottome of it to measure the length of the Shadow Fig. II. LEt AB be a Watch Tower whose height I would know by the Shadow thereof but there is a Moat about it as BC so that I cannot come to measure the Shadow thereof However I come near to the Moat side and there I find the Shadow of the top of the Tower to cast at C where I erect my Staffe CG and that casts its Shadow to H I measure the Length of my Staffe and I find it 4 foot or 48 Inches and the Length of the Shadow thereof CH I find to be 32 Inches these two I note down Then some time after when the Sun is lower I come again to the place and find the Shadow of the top of the Tower to cast at D where again I erect the same Staffe of 4 foot long and find that it casts its Shadow to E and that the length of the Shadow thereof DE is 4 foot 5 inches or 53 inches and somewhat better this I also set down and then I measure the distance between the two places where the Tower casts its Shadow at the First and Second time of my Observation namely the distance CE and find it to be 10 foot or 120 inches And now having all these numbers set down I come to find the Height of the Tower AB by help of the Rule of Proportion as followeth 1 As DE the length of the Shadow of the Staffe DF at the Second Observation 53 Inches Is to 48 Inches the length of the Staffe So is 10 foot or 120 Inches the Length of the Shadow between the two places of Observation C and D To 108 Inches or 9 foot Which number 9 foot or 108 Inches set down And say again by Proportion 2 As 48 Inches the Length of the Staffe GC Is to 10 foot or 120 Inches the distance between the two places of Observation C and D So is 108 Inches the Number before found To 270 Inches the Height of the Tower which reduced into Feet is 22 foot 6 Inches III. How to take the Altitude of any upright building or the like by a Bowle of Water Fig. III. TRavelleing a long the Road I see a May-pole as KL the height whereof I would gladly know but having no Geometrical Instrument I procure a Bowl of fair Water which I set down upon the ground at M. And then when the Water is still in the Bowl I go backward in a right line from the May-pole till I see the Shadow of the top of the May-pole in the middle of the Water which I do when I come at N and at N I make a Mark upon the Ground Then do I measure the distance from the foot of the May-pole at L to the Bowl of Water at M and find it to be 175 Inches Also I measure the distance from the Bowl of Water at M to the place of my standing at N and find that to be 72 Inches Then I measure the Height of my eye from the Ground ON and find that to be 60 Inches These things known I say by the Rule of Proportion If 72 Inches distance MN give 60 Inches Altitude NO What Altitude shall 175 Inches the distance LM give Answer 145 60 72 Inches For if you multiply 175 by 60 the Product will be 10500 which
divide by 72 the quotient will be 145 60 â—2 that is almost 146 Inches which is 12 foot 2 Inches for the height of the May-pole K L required IV. How to take the height of any upright Building that is approachable by two Sticks or Rulers joyned together Square-wise Fig. IV. LEt P Q be some Structure standing upright upon plain Ground whose height you require Go unto some convenient Court Yard Garden or other piece of level Ground adjoyning to the building to be measured then take your Square in both your hands holding it perpendicular which you may do by having a Thread and Plummet as T V hung upon a pin near the top of the Square at T Then keeping it in this posture go backwards or forwards as occasion requires till your Eye being at X you can see the other end of your Square at T and the Top of the Building at P all in one Right-Line which when you do make a stand as at S Then measure the height of your Eye from the Ground X S with a string and set that length upon the Ground from the place of your standing at S to R Then measure the distance from R to Q for that shall be equal to the height of the build ing P Q and is here 210 foot V. How by help of this Square standing upon a Platform of a known height to find the distance from the Platform to any Tree River or other Object that is remote from you Fig V LEt A B be a Platform whose Perpendicular height is 100 foot being upon the top thereof at A I would know how far the Oake at C is distance from the bottom of the Platform at B. Upon the top of the Platform at A I erect a Pike or Javeline 12 foot long more or less upon which I hang the Angle of my Square And I look with my Eye at D along the side of my Square till I see the bottom of the Oake at C and in this position I fix my Square with a Screw or the like to the head of the Javeline Then from D I extend a thread or Line by the side of my square til it touch the Platform at E and then I measure the distance upon the Platform from A to E and find it to be 24 foot 6 Inches then by proportion I say As 12 foot the Length of the Javelin D A Is to 24 foot and a half the distance measured upon the Plaform A E So is 112 the height of the Platform and Javelin together B D. To 228 foot 8 Inches for the distance B C. VI. How to take the distance from the place of your standing upon level Ground to any Tree Tower or other thing remote from you though you cannot come neer the same by your Square Fig. VI. STanding at F I see a Coundit-head at G whose distance from F where I stand I would know but I cannot come neer it for a River between F and G However At F I erect a Staffe of 4 foot high or 48 Inches as F H upon the end whereof I hang the Angle of my Square and I look by the side thereof till I see the foot of the Coundit-head at G and fixing my Square there I extend a line from H by the side of the Square till it touch the Ground at K Then measuring the distance between F and K I find it to be 3 foot or 36 Inches Then by the Rule of Proportion I say As 36 the distance K F Is to F H the Length of the Staffe 48 Inches So is 48 inches the length of the Staff F H. To 64 inches for the Distance F G For as often as K F is contained in F H So often is F H contained in F G. VII How to take the Breadth of a River by the Square Fig. VII THere is a River M P O whose breadth I desire to know Upon the brow of the River at M I set up my Staff M L which is 60 inches or 5 foot long and hanging my Square upon the end thereof at L I look by the Side thereof till I see the Brow of the River on the other side at O and there fixing my Square I extend a Thrid by the Side thereof from L to N then measuring the distance L N I find it to be 15 inches or 1 foot 3 inches then I say by Proportion As N M the distance measured 15 inches Is to L M the length of the Staff 6 inches So is L M 60 inches To M O 240 inches or 20 foot for the breadth of the Ri-River M O. VIII How to take the Distance between Two or more Places without coming near any of them by a Two Foot Joynt Rule Fig. VIII Fig. IX LEt the two remote Places given be A and B whose distance I would know but I cannot approach or come near either of them and I have no other Instrument but my Two Foot Joynt Rule however I make choice of a Place at C from whence I can see both the Places A and B and there I set up a Staff whereon to rest my Rule and opening it to a Square Angle I look by one side of it till I espie my first place at A and there keeping it fast and level I look by the other side of the Ruler and cause a Mark to be set up in a right Line from C at a competent distance from C as at D 150 foot then close in your Rule till by the side thereof you see your second place at B keep your Rule at that Angle Then having a sheet of Paper or upon a Board as Figure IX draw two Right Lines thereon as K L and L M making a Right or Square Angle at L. Then bring your Ruler it being still kept at the Angle it was when you looked to B and lay the Center of your Ruler upon L and by the side of it draw a Line L M and because your measured distance between C and D was 150 foot take 150 quarters of Inches 150 of any equal parts that you have upon your Ruler and set them down upon your Paper or Board from L to M. Then take your Rule and go to D and set the Center of it upon the Staff look by one side thereof to C and by the other to A then bring the Rule to the Board and lay the Center thereof on M and one side upon the line M L and by the other side draw a Line at length as the Line M O crossing the Line L K in O so shall O upon your Board represent the Place A in the Field Again Take your Rule and go to D and there resting it upon the Staff look by one edge to A and by the other to B and keeping it at that Angle bring it to the Board and lay one Side upon the Line M O and by the other draw the Line M P crossing the Line L N in the Point P so