Substance it will bear the two Joints you are to Glew together off each other When with often heating the Glew grows too thick you may put more water to it but then you must make it very hot lest the Glew and Water do not wholly incorporate Some Joyners will when their Glew is too thick put Small Beer into it thinking it strengthens it I have tried it and could never find it so but think it rather makes the Glew weaker especially if the Small Beer chance to be new and its Yest not well settled from it or so stale that it be either Dreggy or any whit mingled with the Settlings of the Cask § 35. Of Using the Glew Your Glew must be very warm for then it is thinnest and as it chills it thickens with a small Brush you must smear the Glew well upon the Joint of each piece you are to Glew together And before you set them as they are to stand you must jostle them one upon the other that the Glew may very well touch and take hold of the Wood and that the Glew on each Joints may well incorporate Then fit the two Joints as they must stand And when you set them by to dry let the one stand upright upon the other For if they stand a-slope the weight of the Stuff when it leans upon two extream edges may make one end of the Joint Open. § 36. Of the Waving Engine The Waving Engine discribed in Plate 5. Fig. 7. Hath AB a long square Plank of about seven Inches broad five Foot long and an Inch and half thick All along the length of this Plank on the middle between the two sides runs a Rabbet as part of it is seen at C upon this Rabbet rides a Block with a Groove in its under side This Block is about three Inches square and ten Inches long having near the hinder end of it a wooden Handle going through it of about one Inch Diameter as D E At the fore-Fore-end of this Block is fastned a Vice somewhat larger than a great Hand-Vice as at F The Groove in the Block is made fit to receive the Rabbet on the Plank At the farther end of the Plank is erected a square strong piece of wood about six Inches high and five Inches square as G. This Square Piece hath a square wide Mortess in it on the Top as at H. Upon the top of this square piece is a strong square flat Iron Coller somewhat loosly fitted on having two Male Screws fitted into two Female Screws to screw against that part of the Wooden Piece un-mortessed at the Top marked L that it may draw the Iron Coller hard against the Iron marked Q and keep it stiff against the fore-side of the un-mortessed Piece marked L when the piece Q is set to its convenient heighth and on the other side the square wooden Piece is fitted another Iron screw having to the end of its shank fastned a round Iron Plate which lies within the hollow of this wooden piece and therefore cannot in Draft be seen in its proper place But I have described it a part as at M. Fig. 9. It s Nut is placed at M on the wooden Piece On the farther side of the wooden Piece is fitted a Wooden Screw called a Knob as at N. Through the farther and hither side of the square Wooden Piece is fitted a flat Piece of Iron about three quarters of an Inch Broad and one quarter of an Inch thick standing on edge upon the Plank but its upper edge is filed round the reason you will find by and by Its hither end comes through the wooden Piece as at O and its farther end on the opposite side of the wooden piece Upright in the hollow square of the wooden piece stands an Iron as at Q whose lower end is cut into the form of the Molding you intend your work shall have In the fore side of this wooden Piece is a square hole as at R called the Mouth To this Engine belongs a thin flat piece of hard Wood about an Inch and a quarter broad and as long as the Rabbet It is disjunct from the Engine and in Fig. 8. is marked SS called the Rack It hath its under flat cut into those fashioned waves you intend your work shall have The hollow of these waves are made to comply with the round edge of flat Plate of Iron marken O described before for when one end of the Riglet you wave is with the Vice Screwed to the plain side of the Rack and the other end put through the Mouth of the wooden Piece as at TT so as the hollow of the wave on the under-side of the Rack may lie upon the round edge of the flat Iron Plate set on edge as at O and the Iron Q is strong fitted down upon the Riglet Then if you lay hold of the Handles of the Block D E and strongly draw by them the Rack and the Riglet will both together slide through the Mouth of the wooden Piece And as the Rounds of the Rack ride over the round edge of the flat Iron the Rack and Riglet will mount up to the Iron Q and as the Rounds of the Waves on the under side of the Rack slides off the Iron on edge the Rack and Riglet will sink and so in a progression or more the Riglet will on its upper side receive the form of the several waves on the under side of the Rack and also the form or Molding that is on the edge of the bottom of the Iron and so at once the Riglet will be both molded and waved But before you draw the Rack through the Engine you must consider the office of the Knob N and the office of the Iron Screw M For by them the Rack is screwed evenly under the Iron Q. And you must be careful that the Groove of the Block slip not off the Rabbet on the Plank For by these Screws and the Rabbet and Groove your work will be evenly gaged all the way as I said before under the edge of the Iron Q and keep it from sliding either to the right or left hand as you draw it through the Engine § 37. Of Wainscoting Rooms A A A in Plate 7. The Stiles B The Base C The Lower Rail D The Sur-Base E E The Middle Rail or Rails F The Friese-Rail G The Upper-Rail H The Cornice I The Lying Pannel K The Large Pannel L The Friese Pannel In Wainscoting of Rooms there is for the most part but two heights of Pannels used unless the Room to be Wainscoted be above ten foot high as some are eleven or twelve Foot high and then three Heighths of Pannels are used As I The Lying Pannel above the Base K The Large Pannel above the Middle Rail And L The Friese Pannel above the Friese Rail The Friese Rail is to have the same breadth the Margent of the Stile hath The Middle Rail hath commonly two breadths of the
Turnners have another Rest called the Side-Rest This they use when they Turn the flats sides of Boards because the flat sides of Boards standing athwart the Pikes and this Rest standing also athwart the Pikes they can the more conveniently rest their Tool upon it It is marked e in plate 13 and is in the Plate disjunct from the Lathe as well because it and the Common Rest cannot both together be exprest in Picture as also because it is made to take off and put on as occasion requires The Rest is marked a and is a piece of an Oaken plank or Elm plank about two Inches thick and stands so high above the Cheeks of the Lathe as the points of the Pikes do or sometimes a little higher Its Breadth is about a Foot or more or less as the Work requires or the Workman fancies The Bottom of it is firmly nailed to one side of a Quarter of Oak or Elm of about three Inches square and two Foot or two Foot and an half long close to one end as you see in the Figure at b so as the Rest stand upright to the piece of Quartet This piece of Quarter is as a Tennant to slide into a square Iron Collar marked e This square Iron Collar is made so long as to reach through the depth of the Cheeks of the Lathe and to receive the Quarter or Tennant thrust through it above the Cheeks and a Wedge under the Cheeks marked d which Wedge when stiff knock'd up draws the Tennant strong and firmly down to the Cheeks and consequently keeps the Side-rest steddy on any part of the Cheeks according as you slide the Collar forwards or backwards towards either Pike or as you thrust the Rest nearer or farther to and from the Pikes Some Turners for some Work instead of a plank for this Rest fasten to one end of the Quarter or Tennant a long Iron with a round Cilindrick Socket in it as at the Figure marked f in Plate 13 a is the Socket of about an Inch or an Inch and an half Diameter to reach within two or three Inches as high as the Pikes and into this Socket they put a long round Iron Shank as in Figure g of the same Plate a is the Shank and at the top of this Shank is made the Rest marked b. This Shank I say slips easily into the Socket that it may be raised or let down as occasion requires and by the help of a Screw through the Socket at e may be fastned at that length The Rest by reason of its Round Shank may be also turned with its upper edge more or less oblique or athwart the Work or else parallel to the Work according as the purpose may require Near one end of the Rest is fitted and fastned a piece of Wood about an Inch square and ten or twelve Inches long This piece of wood is fitted stiff into a square Hole or Mortess made in the Puppet a little above the Shoulder for the Rest to set the Rest to any distance from the Pikes which with the ends of wooden Screws entred into wooden Nuts on the further side of the Puppet and coming through against the Rest keeps the Rest from being thrust nearer to the work when the Workman is working ¶ 8. Of the Treddle and Cross-Treddle ABout the middle between the ends is placed a wooden Treddle about two Inches and an half broad an Inch thick and three Foot long and sometimes three and an half to four Foot long The hinder end of it is fastned to the Floor with a piece of Leather sometimes a piece of the Upper-leather of an old Shoe which piece of Leather is nailed to the under-side of the hinder end of the Treddle so as to leave Leather enough beyond the end of the Treddle to nail down upon the Floor which Treddle being thus nailed down will move upwards as the Spring of the Pole draws up the String the String being also fastned to the fore-end of the Treddle The hinder end of the Treddle is nailed down about a Foot or a Foot and an half behind the Lathe and about the middle between both the Legs so that the fore-fore-end of the Treddle reaches beyond the fore-side of the Lathe about a Foot and an half or two Foot And note that the farther the fore-Fore-end of the Treddle reaches out beyond the Fore-side of the Lathe the greater will the sweep of the Fore-end of the Treddle be and consequently it will draw the more String down and the more String comes down at one Tread the more Revolutions of the Work is made at one Tread and therefore it makes the greater riddance of the Work But then again if the Fore-end of the Treddle reach too far before the Fore-side of the Lathe it may draw the end of the Pole so low as to break it and it will also be the harder to Tread down because the power commanding which is the weight of the Tread lies so far from the weight to be commanded which is the strength of the Pole augmented by the distance that the end of the Treddle hath from the Work in the Lathe so that you may see that the nearer the Fore-end of the Treddle lies to the Perpendicular of the Work in the Lathe the easier the Tread will be And some Turners that Turn altogether Small Work have the Fore-end of the Treddle placed just under their work so that their String works between the Cheeks of the Lathe But then the Sweep of the Treddle being so small the Pole draws up but a small length of String and consequently makes the fewer Revolutions of the Work in one Tread which hinders the riddance of the Work unless with every Spring of the Pole they should lift their Treading Leg so high as to tire it quickly with binging it down again after it is raised to so uncommodious a position This Tredle hath a square Notch in the middle of the further end about an Inch and an half wide and two Inches long that the end of the String may be wound either off or on the Wood on either side the Notch to lengthen or shorten the String as the different Diameters of the Work shall require About the middle of the Treddle is fixed a round Iron Pin about half an Inch in Diameter so as to stand upright about an Inch and an half or two Inches long above the Treddle And under the Cheeks is also fixed down the Cross-Treddle which is such another piece of Wood as the Treddle is but longer or shorter according to the length of the Lathe And in the middle of the Breadth of the Cross-Treddle is made several holes all a-row to receive the Iron Pin set upright in the Treddle These holes are commonly boared about two or three Inches assunder that the Pin or the Treddle may be put into any one of them according as the String is to be placed nearer to or further off either end of the
Lathe ¶ 9. Of the Pole THE Pole is commonly made of a Fir-pole and is longer or shorter or bigger or smaller according to the weight of the Work the Workman designs to Turn For the thicker the Pole is the harder must the Tread be to bring it down and for this reason if the Pole prove too strong for their common or continued Work they will weaken it by cutting away with a Draw-knife described Numb 7. Plate 8. E and § 5. part of the substance off the upper and under sides of the Pole The thick end of this Pole is nailed or indeed rather pinned up to some Girder or other Timber in the Ceiling of the Room with one single Nail or a Pin that the Pole may move upon that Nail or Pin as on a Center and its thin end pass from one Puppet to the other as the Work may require And at about a Foot distance or more is also nailed up to some Joysts or other Timbers of the Ceiling two Cheeks of a convenient strength and at the lower end of these two Cheeks is nailed a Quarter or Batten to bear the Pole though the weight of a Tread be added to it as you may see at n n in Plate 12. ¶ 10. Of the Side-Rest BUt it sometimes happens that the Ceiling of the Work-room is not high enough for the Pole to play upwards and downwards Therefore in such case they place the thin end of the Pole at some considerable distance off the Lathe either before or behind it and so make the Spring of the Pole Horizantal towards the Lathe conveying and guiding the String from the Pole to the Work by throwing it over a Rowler moving on two Iron Center-pins fastned at both ends and placed parallel to the Cheeks of the Lathe above the Work as high as they can and thus every Tread draws the Rowler about But should the Rowler not move about upon those Iron Pins the String every Tread would both cut a Groove in the Ruler and fret it self more or less upon the Rowler ¶ 11. Of the Bow SOme Turners that work light Work such as Cane-Heads Ink-horns c. for which they need scarce remove the Puppets off their Lathe use a Common Bow such as Archers use The middle of this Bow they fasten over Head with its String Horizontally downwards and in the middle of that String they fasten another String perpendicularly downwards whos 's other end they fasten to the Treddle and the String wound round their Work brings it about ¶ 12. Of the Great Wheel BUt when Turners work Heavy Work such as the Pole and Tread will not command they use the Great Wheel This Wheel is so commonly known that I shall need give you no other description of it than the Figure it self which you may see in Plate 14. a. It is turned about with one and sometimes with two Iron Handles according as the weight of the Work may require It s String hath both its ends strong and neatly fastned together not with a Knot but lapt over one another about three Inches in length and so is firmly whipt about with small Gut that it may the easier pass over the narrow Groove in the edge of the Rowler This String is laid in the Groove made on the edge of the Wheel and also in the Groove of the Work But before it is laid upon both one part of the String is lapt over and crosses the other and the String receives the Form of a Figure of 8 only one of its Bows or Circles becomes no bigger than the Groove in the Work and the other as big as the Groove in the Wheel Then the whole Frame wherein the Wheel is fixed is removed farther off the Lathe that the String may draw tight upon the Work The reason why the String thus crosses it self is because it will touch and gird more upon the Groove of the Work and consequently as was said before ¶ 14. will the better command the Work about The manner of Turning this Wheel is as the manner of Turning other Wheels with Handles Besides the commanding Heavy Work about the Wheel rids Work faster off than the Pole can do because the springing up of the Pole makes an intermission in the running about of the Work but with the Wheel the Work runs always the same way so that the Tool need never be off it unless it be to examine the Work as it is doing When the Wheel is used its Edge stands athwart the Cheeks of the Lathe ¶ 13. Of the Treddle-Wheel THis is a Wheel made of a round Board of about two Foot and an half Diameter conveniently to stand under the Cheeks of the Lathe It also hath a Groove on its Edge for the String to run in it hath an Iron Axis with a Crook or Cranck at one end And on this Crook is slipt the Noose of a Leather T·hong which having its other end fastned to a Treddle does by keeping exact time in Treads carry it swiftly about without intermission But the length of the Thong must be so fitted that when the Wheel stands still and the Crook at the end of the Axis hangs downwards the end of the Treddle to which the Thong is fastned may hang about two or three Inches off the Ground For then giving the Wheel a small turn with the Hand till the Crook rises to the highest and passes a little beyond it if just then I say the Workman gives a quick Tread tpon the Treddle to bring the Crook down again with a jerk that Tread will set it in a motion for several revolutions and then if he observes to make his next Tread just when the Crook comes about again to the same position it will continue the motion and cause of the motion and and keep the Wheel always running the same way if he punctually times his Treads The Treddle Wheel is used for small work only as not having strength enough to carry heavy Work about such as Cane-Heads Small Boxes c. and it is fitted below the Cheeks between the Puppets as the Bow is above Besides these Inventions to carry about the Work in the Lathe there are many more as with a great Iron Wheel having Teeth on its edge which Teeth are to fall into an Iron Nut upon an Iron Axis pitcht upon the Pikes of the Puppets of the Lathe or fitted into Collars c. Also for very Heavy Work as Guns Great Mortars c. Wheels turn'd with Wind Water or Horses to carry the Work about Of which more in their proper places ¶ 14. Of the String UPon the thin end of the Pole is wound a considerable Bundle of String That as a Mandrel requires to be bigger than ordinary or the Work heavier they may unwind so much of the String as will compass the Mandrel twice or if the Work be heavy thrice the easier to carry it about This String is made of the Guts of Beasts most commonly of
you must alter them You may know when they are well pitcht by treading softly upon your Treddle and holding your Finger steddy on the Rest direct the point of it pretty close to the Work For if in a Revolution of your Work its Outside keeps it an equal distance from the end of your Finger you may conclude your Work is well pitcht But if you find one side of your Work comes nearer your Finger than the other side you must with your Flat Chissel or Gouge or what is nearest at hand knock softly or hard upon that side that comes nearest to your Finger till you have forc'd the Pikes into the true Centers at the end of your Work and then you may boldly screw it hard up But you must be sure to screw it hard up because it is Soft Wood you purpose to work upon and the strength of the Pole may endanger the drawing or removing the Centers if the Pikes have not good hold of them Having found your Centers take your Work again off the Pikes and wind the String once or twice more about your Work that your String as I said in Numb 10. § 1. when I wrote of the String may the better command it and then wind off or on more String at the end of your Pole or end of your Treddle or both if your Work require it till the Pole draws the Treddle up a little above half the length of the Legs of the Lathe For about the height your Leg may without sudden trying command the Pole down again But before you begin to work upon the Stuff I shall inform you how to Tread the Treddle In which you may observe this General Rule That the nearer the Fore-end of the Treddle you Tread the easier you bring down the Pole But then the Pole in its Spring rases your Leg the higher and may draw the upper side of your Thigh against the underside of the Cheek of the Lathe and with reiterated Risings Gawl and also tire your Thigh Place therefore your Foot steddy upon the Treddle so far forward as you can to avoid the Poles Rising from drawing your Thigh against the underside of the Lathe and Tread the Treddle nimbly down but not quite so low as to knock against the Floor Then abate the weight of your Tread and let the Pole draw the Treddle up but still keep your Foot steddy and lightly Bearing upon the Treddle For then your succeeding Treads will prove easier to your Leg and Thigh and you will with your Foot the better and quicker command the Treddle Then Tread again nimbly down as before and keep this Train of Treading till your Work be finish'd or that you may have occasion to stop and examine how rightly you proceed In all small Work the Tread is lightly and nimbly performed but in large and heavy Work the Tread comes slow and heavily down This being premised you may begin with your Gouge Lay the Round side of it upon the Rest and take the Handle of it in your Right hand and lay the Fore and Middle Fingers of your Left Hand upon the Hollow of the Gouge near the Work mounting the Edge about a quarter of an Inch above the Axis of your Work and sinking your Right hand a little for in this position the Gouge cuts best And thus cut down on your Work near one end a Groove for your String to run in The Groove may be about an Inch or an Inch and an half long But it matters not much what depth Then slip your String into the Groove and if you find the String will not slip easily you may put your Foot under the Treddle and lift it a little up that the String when no weight is hanged to it may slide the easier into the Groove And by the way you may take notice that the deeper you cut down the Groove the oftner will your Work come about every Tread because the String that comes down every Tread measure a small Circumference oftner than it does a greater Circumference But then the Work is not so strongly carried about because it hath a less portion of the String to command it This I hint not that in this our small proposed Pattern it is very considerable For if you only cut the Groove down but so low as there may be a Shoulder at the end and another against the Work to keep the String from slipping out of the Groove it will be sufficient But in heavy Work this Groove ought to be cut with discretion Now come to the Forming of your Work and hold your Gouge as you were taught before but somewhat lightly against your Work beginning at one end and sliding your Gouge gradually to the other cutting with its Edge all the way you go and bearing somewhat stiff against the Work every Tread you make on the Treddle And withdrawing it again a little lightly from the Work every Spring of the Pole And thus by Use you must habituate your self to let the Edge of your Tool bear upon the Work when the Pole and Treddle comes down and to draw it back just off the Work as the Pole and Treddle goes up And thus you must continue till you have rough-wrought all your work from end to end If you have not at first brought your Work clean that is if you have not gone deep enough with your Gouge to take off all the Risings of the Stuff the Draw-knife left even with the smallest part of your Work you must in like manner as before work it over again But you must have a special Care you take not too much Stuff away on any part of the whole Work For this proposed Pattern being a Cilinder if you take but a small matter too much away from any part and make it smaller than your given measure there the whole Work will be spoiled as being smaller than the proposed Diameter which to know you may by opening the Points of your Callippers to two Inches on your Rule the proposed Diameter of your Cilinder try if the Points at that distance will just slip over the deepest Grooves of your Work for we will not suppose that the Grooves are of an equal depth with the Rough-working of the Gouge without straining the Joint for then your Work is just sizeable If not work over again as before c. But we will now suppose you have not taken too much away but have made a due process with your Gouge Therefore now proceed and use a Flat Chissel about an Inch and an half broad to take off the Irregularities the Gouge left Take the Handle of it in your Right Hand as you did the Gouge and clasping the Blade of it in your Left Hand lean it steddy upon the Rest holding the Edge a little assant over the Work so as a Corner of the thin side of the Chissel may bear upon the Rest and that the Flat side of the Chissel may make a small Angle with
your Compasses to two Inches and prick off that distance in one of the lines for the length of the Mortess then lay the inside of the Handle of the Square to one side of the Stuff and upon both the pricks successively and with your Pricker draw straight lines through them by the side of the Tongue so shall the bounds of your Mortess be struck out on the Quarter If your Mortess go through the Quarter draw the same lines on the opposite side of the Quarter thus Turn the Quarter or its edge and apply the inside of the Handle of the Square to the ends of the former drawn lines and by the side of the Tongue draw two lines on the edge of the Quarter then turn the Quarter again with its other broad side upwards and apply the inside of the Handle of the Square to the ends of the last lines drawn on the edge and by the side of the Tongue draw two lines on this broad side also These two lines if your quarter was truly squar'd shall be exactly opposite to the two lines drawn on the first broad side of the quarter for the length of the Mortess And for the width of the Mortess Gage this side also as you did the first then for the Tennant Gage on that end of the Quarter you intend the Tennant shall be made the same lines you did for the Mortess And because the Quarter is two Inches thick prick from the end two Inches and applying the inside of the Handle of the Square to the side of the Quarter and the Tongue to that Prick draw by the side of the Tongue a line through that side the Quarter then turn the other sides of the Quarter successively and draw lines athwart each side the Quarter as you were taught to draw the opposite lines for the Mortess Then place the edge of the Inch-Mortess-Chissel with its Basil from you and the Helve bearing a little towards you within one half quarter of an Inch of one end of the struck Mortess and with your Mallet knock hard upon it till you find the Basil of the Chissel will no longer force the chips out of the Mortess then remove the Chissel to the other end of the Mortess and work as with the first end till the Chips will void no longer Then work away the Stuff betwen the two Ends and begin again at one of the ends and then at the other and work deeper into the Mortess then again between both and so work deeper by degrees till you have wrought the Mortess through or if not through to the intended depht then with the Mortess-Chissel work nearer the drawn lines at the ends of the Mortess for before you were directed to work but within half a quarter of an Inch of the drawn lines by laying light blows on it till you have made it fit to pare smooth with a narrow Paring Chissel and then pare the ends as you were taught to work with the Paring-Chissel then with the broad Paring-Chissel pare the sides of the Mortess just to the Struck lines so is the Mortess finished To work the Tennant lay the other Quarter on edge upon your Work-Bench and fasten it with the Holdfast as you were taught Sect. I. Then with the Tennant Saw a little without the Struck-line towards the end you must not Saw just upon the Struck-line because the Saw cuts rough Besides you must leave some Stuff to pare away smooth to the Struck-line that the Stile that is the upright Quarter may make a close Joint with the Rail that is the lower Quarter Saw therefore right down with the Tennant-Saw just almost to the gaged lines for the thickness of the Tennant and have a care to keep the Blade of the Saw exactly upright Then turn the opposite side of the Quarter upwards and work as you were taught to work the first side Then with the Paring-Chissel pare the Work close to the gaged lines for the Tennant Then try how it fits the Mortess If it be not pared enough away you must Pare it where it Bears that is sticks But if you should chance to have made it too little you have spoiled your work Therefore you may see how necessary it is not to make the Mortess too wide at first or the Tennant too narrow Then with the Piercer pierce two holes through the sides or cheeks of the Mortess about half an Inch off either end one Then knock the Tennant stiff into the Mortess and set it upright by applying the Angle of the outer Square to the Angle the two Quarters make and with your Pricker prick round about the insides of the Pierced holes upon the Tennant Then take the Tennant out again and Pierce two holes with the same Bit about the thickness of a shilling above the Pricked holes on the Tennant that is nearer the sholder of the Tennant that the Pins you are to drive in may draw the sholder of the Tennant the closer to the flat side of the Quarter the Mortess is made in Then with the Paring-Chissel make two Pins somewhat Tapering full big enough and setting the two Quarters again square as before Drive the Pins stiff into the Pierced holes If you make another Square as you did this and make also a Tennant on each un-Tennanted end of the Stiles and another Mortess on the top and bottom Rails you may put them together and make square Frame of them § 18. Of the Miter Square And its Use. The Miter square marked E hath as the Square an Handle marked a one Inch thick and three Inches broad and a Tongue marked b of about the same breadth the Handle and the Tongue as the Square have both their sides parallel to their own sides The Handle as the square hath in the middle of its narrowest Side a Mortess in it of an equal depht the whole length of the Handle Into this Mortess is fitted one end of the Tongue but the end of the Handle is first Bereld off to make an Angle of 45 Degrees with its inside This Tongue is as the square Pin'd and Glewed into the Mortess of the Handle It is used for striking a Miter-line as the Square is to strike a Square-line by applying the Inside of the Handle to the outside of the Quarter or Batten you are to work upon and then by striking a line by the side of the Tongue For that line shall be a Miter line And if upon two Battens you strike two such lines and Saw and Pare them just off in the lines when the flats of those two sawn ends are applied to one another the out and inside of the Battens will form themselves into the Figure of a Square Thus Picture Frames and looking Glass-frames are commonly made as by a more full Example you may see in the next Section § 19. Of the Bevil As the Square is made to strike an Angle of 90 Degrees and the Miter an Angle of 45 degrees so the
and Stair-case aaaa Joysts § 15. Of Framing for the Floors THe four Plates AB AN NO and BO lying on the Foundation are called Ground-plates They are to be of good Oak and for this size of Building about 8 Inches broad and 6 Inches deep They are to be framed into one another with Tennants and Mortesses The longer Ground-plates AN and BO are commonly tennanted into the Front and Rear Ground-plates AB and NO and into these two sides-Ground-plates are Mortesses made for the Tennants at the ends of the Joysts to be fitted somewhat loosly in at about 10 Inches distance from one another as in the Draft These Ground plates are to be bor'd with an Inch and half Augur and well pinned into one another with round Oaken Pins made tapering towards the point and so strong that with the hard blows of a Mallet they may drive stiff into the Augre-hole and keep the Tennant firmly in the Mortess The manner of making a Tennant and Mortess is taught in Exercise 5. § 17. But because the Stuff Carpenters work upon is generally heavy Timber and consequently not so easily mannaged as the light Stuff Joyners work upon therefore they do not at first pin their Tennants into their Mortesses with wooden pins lest they should lie out of square or any other intended Position but laying a Block or some other piece of Timber under the corner of the Frame-work to bear it hollow off the Foundation or what ever else it lies upon they drive Hook Pins described Plate 8. § 6. into the four Augre-holes in the corners of the Ground-plates and one by one fit the Plates either to a square or any other intended Position and when it is so fitted they draw out their Hook Pins and drive in the Wooden Pins as aforesaid and taking away the wooden Blocks one by one from under the corners of the Frame they let it fall into its place But before they pin up the Frame of Ground-plates they must fit in the Summer marked PP and the Girders QQ and all the Joysts marked aaaa c. and the Trimmers for the Stair-case and Chilmney way marked bb and the binding Joysts marked cc for else you cannot get their Tennants into their respective Mortess holes But they do I say fit all these in while the frame of Ground-plates lies loose and may corner by corner be opened to let the respective Tennants into their respective Mortesses which when all is done they frame the Raising-plates just as the Ground-plates are framed and then frame the Roof into the Raising-plates with Beams Joysts c. The Summer is in this Ground-plate placed at 25 foot distance from the Front and is to be of the same Scantlin the principal Plates are of for Reasons as shall be shewn hereafter and the Girders are also to be of the same Scantlins the Summers and Ground-Plates are of though according to the nice Rules of Architecture the Back-Girder need not be so strong as the Front-Girder because it Bears but at 14 foot length and the Front-Girder Bears at 24 foot length yet Carpenters for uniformity generally make them so unless they build an House by the great and are agreed for the Sum of Money c. The Joysts Bearing at 8 Foot as here they do are to be 7 Inches deep and 3 Inches Broad The Trimmers and Trimming Joysts are 5 Inches broad and 7 Inches deep and these Joysts Trimmers and Trimming-Joysts are all to be pinned into their respected Mortesses and then its flatness try'd with the Level as was taught § 7. § 16. Of setting up the Carcass Though the Ground-plates Girders c. be part of the Carcass yet I thought fit in the last Section they should be laid before I treated of the superstructure which I shall now handle The four Corner Posts called the Principal Posts marked AA should be each of one piece so long as to reach up to the Beam of the Roof or Raising-Plate and of the same Scantlin the Ground Plates are of viz. 8 Inches broad and 6 Inches thick and set with one of its narrowest sides towards the Front It s lower end is to be Tennanted and let it into a Mortess made near the corner of the Ground-Plate Frame and its upper end hath also a Tennant on it to fit into a Mortess made in the Beam of the Roof or Raising-piece At the heighth of the first Story in this Principal Post must be made two Mortesses one to receive the Tennant at the end of the Bressummer that lies in the Front and the other to entertain the Tennant at the end of the Bressummer that lies in the Return-side Two such Mortesses must also be made in this Principal Post at the height of the second Story to receive the Tennant at the ends of the Bressummers for that Story Though I have spoken singularly of one Principal Post yet as you work this you must work all four Principal Posts and then set them plumb upright which you must try with a Plumb-line described in Plate 8 § Having erected the Principal Posts upright you must enter the Tennants of the Bressummers into their proper Mortesses and with a Nail or two about a single Ten or adouble Ten tack one end of a deal Board or some other like piece of stuff to the Bressummer and the other end to the fram'd work of the Floor to keep the Principal Posts upright and in their places Then set up the several Posts between the Principal Posts but these Posts must be Tennanted at each end because they are to be no longer than to reach from Story to Story or from Entertise to Entertise and are to be framed into the upper and under Bressummer If the Entertises be not long enough they set up a Principal Post between two or three lengths to reach from the Ground-plate up to the Raising-plates It is to be remembred that the Bressummers and Girders are laid flat upon one of their broadest sides with their two narrowest sides perpendicular to the Ground-Plot but the Joysts are to be laid contrary for they are framed so as to lie with one of their narrowest sides upwards with there two broadest sides perpendicular to the Ground-Plot The reason is because the Stuff of the Bressummers and Girders are less weakned by cutting the Mortesses in them in this position than in the other position for as the Tennants for those Mortesses are cut between the top and bottom sides and the flat of the Tennants are no broader than the flat of the narrowest side of the Joysts so the Mortesses they are to fit into need be no broader than the breadth of the Tennant and the Tennants are not to be above an inch thick and consequently the Mortesses are to be made with an Inch Mortess-Chissel as was shewn Numb 5. § 17. for great care must be taken that the Bressummers and Girders be not weakned more than needs lest the whole Floor dance These Tennants are
Sawed Joysts in length 8 6 4 Laths in length 5 4 1 1 4 1 quarter and ½ Inch     Inches Stone Where Stone is used to keep to these Scantlins First sort of Houses Corner Peers 18 square Middle or Single Peers 14 and 12 Double Peers between House and House 14 and 18 Door-Jambs and Heads 12 and 8   Foot Inches 2d 3d sorts Corner Peers 2 6 square Middle or single Peers 18 square Double Peers between House and House-24 and 18 Door-Jambs and Heads 14 and 10  Foot Thickness Scantlins for Sewers 3 wide Side-walls 1 Brick ½ Bottom paved plain and then 1 Brick on edge circular 5 high Arch 1 Brick on end General RULES IN every Foundation within the Ground add one Brick in thickness to the thickness of the Wall as in the Scheme next above the Foundation to be set off in three Courses equally on both sides That no Timbor be laid within twelve Inches of the foreside of the Chimney-Jambs And that all Joysts on the back of any Chimney be laid with a Trimmer at six Inches distance from the Back That no Timber be laid within the Tunnel of any Chimney upon penalty to the Workman for every default Ten Shillings and Ten Shillings every week it continues unreformed That no Joycts or Rafters be laid at greater distances from one to the other than twelve Inches and no Quarters at greater distance than fourteen Inches That no Joysts bear at longer length than Ten Foot and no single Rafters at more in length than Nine Foot That all Roofs Window-frames and Cellar-floors be made of Oak The Tile-pins of Oak No Summers of Girders to lie over the Head of Doors and Windows No Summer or Girder to lie less than Ten Inches into the Wall no Joysts than Eight Inches and to be laid in Lome But yet the Carcass is not compleated till the Quarters and Braces between the principal Posts and Posts are fitted in the Window Frames made and set up and the Principal Rafters Purlins Gables c. are also fram'd and set up The manner of their Pitch and Scantlins you will see in Plate 11. And the reasons for several Pitches you may find among Books of Architecture But the names of every Member you will find in the Alphabetical Table at the latter end of these Exercises on Carpentry referred unto by Letters and Arithmetical Figures in the Plate aforesaid But now we will suppose the Carcass is thus finished The Bricklayer is then to bring up the Chilmnies and afterwards to Tile the House And then the next work the Carpenter has to do is to Bring up the Stairs and Stair-Cases and afterwards to Floor the Rooms and Hang the Doors c. For should he either Bring up the Stairs and Stair-Cases or Floor the Rooms before the House is Tiled or otherwise covered if wet Weather should happen it might injure the Stairs Flooring c. A The Ground-plate or Ground-sell BB BB The Principal Posts CC The Binding Intertises or indeed more properly Interduces Bressummers Girders D Beam of the Roof Bressummer or Girder to the Garret Floor EE Principal Rafters FF Bressummers G Plate or Raising-piece also a Beam aa Jaums or Door-posts bb Braces cc Jaums d Top-rail of the Balcony ee Bottom-rail of the Balcony fff Posts of the Balcony ggg Banisters hh Bressummers for the Shop-windows H King-piece or Joggle-piece ii Struts kk Top-beam Coller-beam Wind-beam Strut-beam lll Door-head II The Feet of the principal Rafters K The Top of the Rafters IIK The gable-Gable-end LL Knees of the Principal Rafters to be made all of one piece with the Principal Rafters M The Fust of the House NN Purlins OO Shop-windows PP Flaps or Falls mmm Quarters nn Jaums of the Window oo Back and Head of the Window pp Transums qq Munnions rr Furrings or Shreadings V Single light Windows or Luteons sss Rafters § 16. Of Window Frames IN Brick Buildings the Window Frames are so framed that the Tennants of the Head-sell Ground-sell and Transum run though the outer Jaums about four Inches beyond them And so they are set in a Lay of Morter upon the Brick Wall before the Peers on either side is brought up at about three Inches within the Front So that the Brick work over the Head and about the Jaums defend it from the Weather Then the Bricklayer brings up the Peers on both sides so that the four ends or Tennants that project through the outer Jaums being buried and trimmed into the Brick-work become a Fastning to the Window-Frame But if the Window-Frame stands on a Timber-house the Head and Ground-sell are sometimes Tennanted into Posts of the Carcass and then the Posts do the office of the outer Jaums of the Window-Frame and the Head and Ground-sell are then called Entertises and therefore both Head and Ground-sell and Posts or Jaums are rabbetted about half an Inch on the outside of the Front to receive the Pane of Glass that is fitted to it And thus as I said the Posts become part of the Window-Frame But the better way is to frame a Window as the Brick-work Window and to project it an Inch and an half beyond the side of the Building and to plaister against its sides for the better securing the rest of the Carcass from the weather The Window-Frame hath every one of its Lights rabbetted on its outside about half on Inch into the Frame and all these Rabbets but that on the Ground-sell are grooved square but the Rabbets on the Ground-sell is bevell'd downwards that Rain or Snow c. may the freelier fall off it Into these Rabbets the several Panes of Glass-work is set and fastned by the Glasier as shall be shewed when I come to Exercise upon Glasing The square Corners of the Frame next the Glass is Bevell'd away both on the out and inside of the Building that the Light may the freelier play upon the Glass And upon that Bevel is commonly Stuck a Molding for Ornament sake according to the fancy of the Workman but more generally according to the various Mode of the Times § 17. Of Stairs and Stair-Cases SEveral Writers of Architecture have delivered different Rules for the Height and Breadth of Steps and that according to the several Capacities of the Stair-Cases They forbid more than six and less than four Inches for the Heighth of each Step and more than sixteen and lest than twelve for the Breadth of each Step. But here we must understand they mean these Measures should be observed in large and sumptuous Buildings But we have here proposed an ordinary private House which will admit of no such Measures for want of room Therefore to our present purpose The first and second Pair of Stairs the Steps shall be about 7⅓ Inches high and 10 Inches broad The third Pair of Stairs each Step may be about 6 ½ Inches high aud 9 ½ Inches broad And for the fourth Pair of Stairs each Step may be
about 6 Inches high and 9 Inches broad But this Rule they do or should follow viz. to make all the Steps belonging to the same pair of Stairs of an equal height which to do they first consider the heighth of the Room in Feet and odd Inches if any odd be and multiply the Feet by 12 whose Product with the number of odd Inches gives the summ of the whole Heighth in Inches which summ they divide by the number of Steps they intend to have in that Heighth and the Quotient shall be the number of Inches and parts that each Step shall be high Or if they first design the Heighth of each Step in Inches they try by Arithmetick how many times the Heighth of a Step they can have out of the whole Heighth of the Story and so know the number of Steps MECHANICK EXERCISES OR The Doctrine of Handy-Works Continued in the ART of House-Carpentry STairs are either made about a Solid Newel or an Open Newel and sometimes mixt viz. with a Solid Newel for some few Steps then a straight or Foreright Ascent whith Flyers upon the side of the square Open Newel and afterwards a Solid Newel again Than reiterate c. The last viz. the Mixt Newel'd Stairs are commonly made in our Party-walled Houses in London where now Light can be placed in the Stair-Case because of the Party-walls so that there is a necessity to let in a Sky-light through the Hollow Newel But this sort of Stair Cases take up more room than those with a single solid Newel because the Stairs of a solid Newel spread only upon one small Newel as the several Foulds of the Fans Woman use spread about their Center But these because they sometimes wind and sometimes fly off from that winding take therefore the more room up in the Stair-Case The manner of projecting them is copiously taught in many Books of Architecture whether I referr you yet not to leave you wholly in the dark I shall give you a small light into it And first of the Solid Newel Winding Stairs are projected on a round Profile whose Diameter is equal to the Base the Stair-Case is to stand on suppose six foot square This Profile hath its Circumference divided into 16 equal parts The Semi-diameter of the Profile is divided into four equal parts and one of them used for the Newel and the rest for the length of the Steps if you draw Lines from the Center through every one of the equal parts into the Circumference the space between every two Lines will be the true Figure of a Winding-Step And if they were all cut out and placed one above another over the true place on the Profile round about the Newel whose Diameter is one quarter the length of a Step you would by supporting each Step with a Raiser have the modle of a true pair of Winding-Stairs See Plate 10. Fig. 2. Hollow Newel'd Stairs are made about a square Hollow Newel We will suppose the Well-hole to be eleven foot long and six foot wide and we would bring up a pair of Stairs from the first Floor eleven foot high it being intended that a Skie-light shall fall through the Hollow Newel upon the Stairs we must therefore consider the width and breadth of the Hollow Newel and in this example admit it to be two foot and a half wide and two foot broad by the width I mean the sides that range with the Front and Rear of the Building and by the breadth I mean the sides that range with the Party-walls I find by the Rule aforesaid that if I assign 18 Steps up each Step will be seven Inches and one third of an Inch high You must note that the flying off or else winding of these Steps will vary their places according as you design the first Ascent For if you make the first Ascent as you come straight out of the Street as in Plate 10. on the South side you will first ascend upon a Pitch of Flyers which Pitch making an Angle of 38 deg with the Floor with ten Steps raise you six Foot high above the Floor and bring you eight Foot towards the North end of the Well-hole by making each Step ten Inches broad But now you must leave Flyers and make four Winding Steps These Winding Steps are made about a solid Newel as hath been taught and this Newel serves also for a Post to Trim the Stair-Case too This Post stands upon the Floor and is prolonged upwards so high that Mortesses made in it may receive the Tennants of the Top and Bottom Rails of the whole Stair-case for that Floor these four Winding steps aforesaid rounding one quarter about the Newel turns your Face in your Ascent now towards the East these four steps are raised 2 foot 5 ⅓ Inches above the Flyers so that in all your Stairs are now raised 8 foot 6 ⅔ Inches Here remains now only 2 foot 5 ½ Inches to the Landing place and these take up just four Flyers which must be made as was taught before But now in your second pair of Stairs it will be proper to begin your Ascent with your Face towards the West for landing by the first pair of Stairs with your Face towards the East you turn by the side of the Rail on the second Floor from the East towards the North and at the further end of that Rail you turn your Face again from the North towards the West and begin your Ascent on the second pair of Stairs Between the Skie-light and the Ascent is a Post set upright to fasten Rails into to bound the Stair-case from the bottom of which viz. on the second Floor you trim up three Flyers and then turn off a quarter of a Circle with Winding steps then again Flyers to your designed pitch and then again another quarter of a Circle with Winding steps c. The Rail these Steps are built upon being at the beginning or bottom of the Ascent framed or otherwise fastned to the first upright Post must at its higher end be framed into the next Post also with a Bevel Tennant as you were taught to frame Quarters into one another Numb 5. § 17. Only with this difference that there you were taught to frame Square but here you must frame upon the Bevel as you were taught Numb 5. § 19. This Post aforesaid bears upon the Floor to make its Bearing the stronger and this Post must be continued to such an heighth as it may also serve to receive the Tennanted end of an upper and lower Rail framed into it And between these Bevelling Rails Bannisters make good the outside of the Stair-Case Though I have here described this Contrivance of a pair of Stairs yet do I not deliver it as the best Patern for this building or for these sorts of Stairs nor matters it to our purpose whether it be or no for as I told you before my undertaking is the Doctrine of Handy-works not Architecture but ' its
Shank put into one of the Holes of the Joint-Coller described in Plate 13. fig. G. that will best fit it which Hole standing directly against the Pike in the hinder Puppet and receiving the Shank into it guides the Mandrel about as if it were pitch upon two Centers And the Work being forced stiff into the Hollow of this Mandrel will be carried about with it exposing the Fore-side of the work bare and free from the Joynt-Coller and not impeded by Spikes from coming at the work So that with the Hook Grooving-Hook Gouge or Flat-Chissel according as your work requires you may come at it to Turn your intended Form Hollow Mandrels are also used in Collers that open not with a Joynt but then the Spindle is made of Iron and hath a Screw just at its end upon which is screwed a Block with an hollow in it made fit to receive the work stiff into it ¶ 4. Of the Screw-Mandrel 4. ANother sort of Mandrel is called the Screw-Mandrel and is marked F 4. in Plate 15. a the Rowler of the Mandrel b the Shank or Screw is made of Iron having its two ends Round and in the middle between the Round ends a Square the length of the Rowler and this Square is fitted stiff into a Square Hole made through the middle of the Rowler that it turn not about in the Square Hole In each Flat-end of this Iron Shank or Spindle is made a Center-Hole whereinto the Pikes of the Puppets are pitcht when this Mandrel is used This Iron Shank or Axis must be made very straight and ought to be turned upon the two Center-Holes for exactness Because on one of the Round ends or sometimes on both a Screw or indeed several Screws of several Diameters is made That Screw next the end of the Shank is the smallest viz. about three quarters of an Inch over and takes up in length towards the middle of the Shank about an Inch or an Inch and an half and so far from the end of the Shank it is of an equal Diameter all the way And on this portion of the Shank is made a Male-screw of the finest Thread The next Inch and half wrought as before hath another Male-screw but about half a quarter of an Inch more in Diameter than the former and hath its Threads courser Another Inch and half hath its Diameter still greater and its Threads yet courser And thus you may make the Shank as long as you will that you may have the more variety of Sizes for Screws These sorts of Mandrels are made for the making of Screws to Boxes and their Lids as shall be shewed in the next Paragraph ¶ 5. Of Sockets or Chocks belonging to the Screw-Mandrel TO this Screw-Mandrel belongs so many Sockets as there are several sizes of Screws on the Shank They are marked F5 in Plate 15. a the Socket or Chock b b the Wooden Pin c the Stay d d the Notch to slip over the Male-screw These Hollow Sockets have Female Screws in them made before the Notch to slip over the Male-screw of the Screw-Mandrel is cut The manner of making Female-screws is taught Numb 2. fol. 29 30 31. only instead of a Tap used there you use the several and different sizes of Screws made on the Screws-Mandrel to do the Office of a Tap into each respective Socket which Sockets being only made of Hard Wood it will easily perform though the Shank or Axis be but Iron Therefore as aforesaid to each of the Male-screws on the Screw-Mandrel is fitted such a Socket that you may chuse a Thread Courser or Finer as you please But this Female-screw is open or hath a Notch on one side of it that it may slip over the Male-screw and the Threads of each other fit into each others Grooves and when they are thus fitted to one another the further or open side of the Male-screw is gaged in or pin'd on the Female-screw with a Wooden Pin thrust through two opposite Holes made for that purpose in the Cheeks of the Wooden Sockets that it shake not When the Treddle comes down in working and the Socket is fitted on its proper Screw and pinn'd stiff upon it and the Stay held down to the Rest of the Lathe then will the Socket and consequently the Stay slide farwards upon the Male-screws so that a Tool held steddy on any part of the Stay and applied to the out or inside of your Work that Tools point will describe and cut a Screw whose Thread shall be of the same fineness that the Screw and the Shank is of § VII Of Collers THere are several fashion'd Collers As the Joynt-Coller marked G the Round-Coller marked H and the Coller marked I in Plate 13. The Joynt-Coller is made of two Iron Cheeks marked b b which moving upon a Joint c at the Bottom may be set close together or else opened as the two insides of the Joynt-Rule Carpenters use to do On the the Inner Edge of each Cheek is formed as many half-round Holes or Semi-cirles as you please or the length of the Cheeks will conveniently admit These Semi-circles are made of different Diameters that they may fit the Shanks or Necks of different siz'd Mandrels And these Semi-Circles must be made so exactly against each other on the edges of the Cheeks that when the two Cheeks moving upon their Joynt are clapt close together the Semi-Circles on both the Cheeks shall become a perfect round hole or Circumference Near the top of one of these Cheeks is fastned with a Center-pin a Square Iron Coller marked d with a small Handle to it marked e. This square Coller is made to contain the breadth of both the Cheeks when they are shut together and to hold them so fast together that they shall not start assunder and yet is made so fit that it may slip off and on both the Cheeks MECHANICK EXERCISES OR The Doctrine of Handy-Works Applied to the ART of TURNING § VIII Of the Mawl THE Mawl is marked K in Plate 13. The Figure of it there is Description sufficient Its Office is to knock and unknock the Wedge in the Puppets and to knock upon the back of the Cleaving Knife when they split their Wood for their Work The Joyner's Mallet would supply the Office of this Tool but Use has made the Mawl more handy for them Besides when one is batter'd to shivers they can quickly of a Chump of Wood accommodate themselves with another § IX Of the Hatchet Draw-knife and Cleaving Knife THE Hatchet is marked L in Plate 4. It is of the same sort that Joyners use which I described Num. 5. § 25. and therefore referr you thither And the Draw-knife is described in Numb 7. § 5. Plate 8. marked E. The Cleaving-knife marked M in Plate 13. needs no other Description than that Figure § X. Of the Chopping-Block THE Chopping-Block is marked N in Plate 13. It is made of a piece of Elm-Tree placed with its
the middle of that String in a Noos is fastned another strong Gut-string with a Noos at its end This last mentioned String is made exactly of that length that when the nearest side of the Guide viz. it s least Diameter is set into the Groove of the Guide-pulley and the Bow is strained and this String laid in the Groove of the String-pulley the Noos at the end of it may be put over the Iron Button fixed in the top of the Moving-Coller For then as the Treddle-Wheel carries the Axis about the Guide being firmly fastned upon the Axis comes also about and having the Groove of the Guide-pulley set against the outer edge of the Guide as the great Diameter of the Guide is turned against the Guide-pulley the Moving-Coller being drawn by the strength of the Bow draws the Hollow Axis along with it as also the Work screwed in the Hollow Axis And thus as the small Diameter of the Guide comes to the Guide-pulley the small Diameter of the Work is Formed and as the great Diameter of the Guide comes to the Guide-pulley the great Diameter of the Work is formed This is the Sum of Oval Turning But that the whole Machine may be yet better understood I shall more particularly give you the names of all its parts together with a Description upon its most material parts where the Fore-Puppet is more largely delineated in Plate 18. at A where also some of the Members most difficult to be described are drawn more at large by themselves a The Bow b The Moving Coller c c The Socket in which the Coller is moved d The Stop-screw to take out when the Hollow Axis moves in the Moving Coller e The Hollow Axis f The Head in which is contained the several Guides g The Center Head h The Button i The String-pulley k The Wheel-pulley l The Guide-pulley ¶ 1. Of the Hollow Axis and its Shank marked a in Plate 18. THE Shank is a Bar of Iron about an Inch thick and two Foot long having in its further end a Center-hole to pitch upon the Pike in the further Puppet but it s hither end is made square to fit tight into a square Socket in the Brass Hollow Axis And when it is thus fitted into the hither end of the Brass it is Turned true Cilindrically round so as to fit into the round Hole in the Moving Coller The Diameter of the Round is about two Inches and the length about two Inches straight but then a Shoulder is Turned to the Brass Cilinder to stop it from slipping through the Moving Center In the fore-Fore-end of this Hollow-Axis viz. in the Brass Cilinder is Turned a wide Hole about an Inch and a quarter Diameter and an Inch deep And in this wide Hole is Turned a Female Screw with a course Thread to receive a Male Screw made behind the Mandrel that the Work is fixed upon About the middle of this Iron Shank is placed a Pulley made of Wainscot Board about eight Inches Diameter and an Inch thick with a Groove on its outer edge about half an Inch wide and half an Inch deep for the String of the Treddle Wheel that carries the Axis about to run in And betwen this Pulley you may if you will have several lengths of such Male-screws as was described Numb 11. § 6. ¶ 4. and Plate 15. to make Screws with if you please See the Figure a d c b disjunct from the rest of the Work a The hinder end d The Pulley of the Axis or Wheel-pulley c The Hollow or Hole in the Fore-end of the Hollow Axis b The Shoulder of the Hollow Axis ¶ 2. Of the Moving Coller marked b in Plate 18. THis whole Member is called the Moving Coller though the Coller strictly is only the round Hole at a into which the Hollow Axis is fitted It is made of Iron to reach from its top at h the Button down to the bottom of the Cheeks of the Lathe as at b upon which Pin as on a Center the whole Moving Coller moves backwards and forwards its extream Breadth is about three Inches and its thickness above a quarter of an Inch. Its Neck at c is clasped but not fixed down to the Fore-side of the Puppet for this Neck is only gaged in the Shackle marked c so as the Neck and consequently the whole Moving Coller may slide from end to end of the Shackle forwards and backwards d A small Female Screw into which through a Hole in the Shackle is fitted a Male Screw to hold the Moving Coller and the Shackle togehter that the Moving Coller may not move when only round Work is Turned in the Coller ¶ 3. Of the Foreside of the Puppet and the Shackle marked c. UNder this Shackle viz. between it and the Fore-side of the Puppet moves the Neck of the Sliding-Coller from a to b when the ends at c c are fixed down to the Fore-side of the Puppet with two Iron Screws ¶ 4. Of the Hollow in the Puppet marked d. IN the middle of the Puppet is hollowed out a Hole about three Inches between the Fore and Back-side of the Puppet and four Inches athwart the Cheeks in the Puppet and four Inches deep So that about an Inch of Substance remains on each of the four upright sides But the Top is quite open as at a Through the middle of this square Hole runs the Iron Axis marked b b on which is fixed the several Guides that are to be used in this sort of Working It is open at the Top that Light may be let in to set the Guide-pulley to which Guide you please and it is open on the hither side as at e e about an Inch and an half above and below the Axis that the Guide-pulley may be slid on its Axis to any of the Guides The Guide-pulley marked d is a Brass Pulley of about an Inch Diameter and a little above a quarter of an Inch thick having a Groove in the Edge of it to receive the Edge of the Guide It hath in its middle a round Hole about half an Inch Diameter which round Hole slips over a round Iron Pin of the same Diameter marked f f so as it may slide from one end of the said Iron Pin to the other according as the Guides may be fixed towards either end When it is used the Groove in the Edge of this Guide-pulley is set against the Edge of the Guide and being fitted tight on the round Iron Pin aforesaid and the two ends of the Iron Pin fast fixed into the Wood of the Puppet the Guide-pulley may indeed move round on the Iron Pin but the strength of the Iron Pin and Guide-pulley will resist the extuberick parts of the Edge of the Guide and so with the assistance of the strength of the Steel Bow force the Guide and Hollow Axis to move backwards and then an Edge-Tool held to the Work in the Mandrel screwed in the Hollow Axis will describe the same
your Walls of such thicknesses as the Act of Parliament for rebuilding of the said City enjoyns but in other places you may use your Discretion And because the Act of Parliament may not be in every Builders hands I will therefore Incert so much of it as relates to Bricklayers Work to wit the Heights and number of Stories and the Thickness of Walls of the Four several sorts of Buildings which is as follows And be it further Enacted That the said Houses of the First and least sort of Building Fronting by Streets or Lanes as aforesaid shall be of two Stories high besides Cellars and Garrats That the Cellars thereof 6 Foot and an half high if the Springs of Water hinder not and the First Story be 9 Foot high from the Floor to the Seeling and the second Story 9 Foot high from the Floor to the Seeling that all Walls in Front and Reer as high as the first Story be of the full thickness of the length of 2 Bricks and thence upwards to the Garrats of the thickness of one Brick and an half and that the thickness of the Garrat Walls on the back part be left to the Discretion of the Builder so that the same be not less than the length of one Brick and also that the thickness of the party Walls between these Houses of the First and lesser sort of Building be one Brick and 1 2 as high as the said Garrats and that the thickness of the Party Wall in the Garrat be of the Thickness of the length of one Brick at the least And be it further enacted that the Houses of the second sort of Building fronting Streets and Lanes of Note and the River of Thames shall consist of Three Stories high besides Cellars and Garrats as aforesaid that the Cellars thereof be 6 Foot and 1 2 high if the Springs hinder not that the first Story contain full 10 Foot in height from the Floor to the Seeling The second full 10 Foot The Third 9 Foot That all the said Walls in Front and Reer as high as the first Story be 2 Bricks and 1 2 thick and from thence upwards to the Garrat Floor of 1 Brick and 1 2 thick and the thickness of the Garrat Walls on the back part be left to the discretion of the Builder so that the same be not less than one Brick thick And also that the thickness of the Party-walls between every House of this second and larger sort of Building be two Bricks thick as high as the first Story and thence upwards to the Garrats of the thickness of 1 Brick and 1 2. Also that the Houses of the Third sort of Buildings fronting the high and principal Streets shall consist of 4 Stories high besides Cellars and Garrats as aforesaid That the first Story contain full 10 foot in height from the Floor to the Seeling The Second 10 foot and 1 2 The Third 9 foot The Fourth 8 foot and 1 2 That all the said Walls in Front and Reer as high as the first Story be of 2 Bricks and 1 2 in thickness and from thence upwards to the Garrat Floor of the thickness of 1 Brick and 1 2 That the thickness of the Garrat Walls on the back part be left to the discretion of the Builder so as the same be not less than one Brick And also that the Party-walls between every House of this Third and larger sort of Building be 2 Bricks thick as high as the first Floor and thence upwards to Garrat Floor the 1 1 2 Brick in thickness And Be it further Enacted That all Houses of the fourth sort of Building being Mansion Houses and of the greatest bigness not fronting upon any of the Streets or Lanes as aforesaid the Number of Stories and the Height thereof shall be left to the discretion of the Builder so as he exceeds not 4 Stories Also the same Act enjoins that no Timber be laid within 12 Inches of the foreside of the Chimny Jambs And that all Joysts on the back of any Chimny be laid with a Trimmer at 6 Inches distant from the back Also That no Timber be laid within the Tunnel of any Chimny upon Penalty to the Workman for every Default Ten Shillings and Ten Shillings every week it continues unreform'd 12dly When you lay any Timber on Brick-work as Torsels for Mantle-Trees to lye on or Lintols over Windows or Templets under Girders or any other Timbers lay them in Loam which is a great preserver of Timber for Morter eats and corrodes the Timber Likewise the Joyst ends and Girders which lye in the Walls must be Loamed all over to preserve them from the corroding of the Morter Some Workmen pitch the ends of the Timber that lye in the Walls to preserve them from the Morter In the next place you shall have the Ground Plat of a Building and its Explanation IN Plate 4 you have the Draught of a Ground Plat of a Building which is 25 Feet both in the Front and Reer Front and 40 Feet in the Flank or Depth The Front and Reer Front Walls are 2 Bricks and 2 in thickness The Flank Walls are 2 Bricks in thickness as you may prove by the Scale of Feet and Inches annext to the Design You may Imagine this Design to be the Ground Floor having no Cellar beneath it And the height of the Story between the Floor and the Seeling to be 10 Foot and because we do suppose this Building to have Houses adjoining it on each side therefore we have drawn the Stair-case with an open Nuel to give light to the Stairs but if the House had stood by it self without other Houses adjoyning then we might have had light to the Stairs from the Flank Wall Explanation of the Design F. The Front R. Reer Front B. Flank Walls A. Piers of Brick W. Windows of Timber D. Door-cases of Timber O. Chimneys C. Jambs of Chimneys H. Open Nuel to give light to the Stairs K. Clossets L. A Brick and half Wall between the Clossets a. Funnels or Tunnels of Chimneys 1. 2. 3. 4 c. Steps of Stairs called Fliers 8. 9. 10 c. Steps of Stairs called Winders e. Timber Partitions The Scale contains 32 Feet with a Diagonal Line to shew the Inches in a Foot For Example if you would take of 8 Inches take the Interval from 8 in the Horizontal Line to the Diagonal Line and that is 8 Inches From 3 in the Horizontal Line to the Diagonal Line is 3 Inches and so of the rest In the next Plate you have the Orthography or upright of this ground Plat and this the Explanation thereof with a Scale of Feet and Inches annext thereto Explanation of Plate 5. A. The water-Table B. First Fascia C. Second Fascia D. Three plain Courses of Bricks over the Arches E. Cornice F. Chimnies G. gable-Gable-end H. Streight Arches W. Shas Frames S. Shas lights K. Door-case L. Window-Lights over the Door The Scale of Feet and Inches
office is to follow the Former and to pare off and smoothen the irregularities the Former made It is not knockt upon with the Mallet but the Blade is clasped upon the out side of the hindermost joints of the fore and little fingers by the clutched inside of the middle and third fingers of the right hand and so its edge being set upon the scribed line and the top of the Helve placed against the hollow of the inside of the right sholder with pressing the sholder hard upon the Helve the edge cuts and pares away the irregularities This way of handling may seem a preposterous posture to mannage an Iron Tool in and yet the reason of the Original contriver of this Posture is to be approved For should Workmen hold the Blade of the Paring-Chissel in their whole hand they must either hold their hand pretty near the Helve where they cannot well mannage the Tool or they must hold it pretty near the edge where the outside of the fingers will hide the scribed line they are to Pare in But this posture all Workmen are at first taught and Practice doth so inure them to it that if they would they could not well leave it § 12. Of the Skew-Former The Skew-Former marked C4 is seldom used by Joyners but for cleansing accute Angles with its accute Angle on its edge where the Angles of other Chissels will not so well come § 13. Of the Mortess-Chissel The Mortess Chissel marked C5 is a narrow Chissel but hath its Blade much thicker and consequently stronger that it may endure the heavier blows with the Mallet than other Chissels have so that in grinding it to an edge it is ground to a very broad Basil as you may see in the Figure It s Office is to cut deep square holes called Mortesses in a piece of Wood. Joyners use them of several Breadths according as the Breadths of their Mortesses may require § 14. Of the Gouge The Gouge marked C6 is a Chissel having a round edge for the cutting such Wood as is to be Rounded or Hollowed These several sorts of Chissels Joyners have of several Sizes that they may be accommodated to do several Sizes of Work MECHANICK EXERCISES OR THE DOCTRINE OF HANDY-WORKS By Joseph Moxon late Member of the Royal Society and Hydrographer to King Charles II. LONDON Printed and Sold by J. Moxon 1694. MECHANICK EXERCISES OR The Doctrine of Handy-Works Continued in the ART of JOYNERY § 15. Of the Square and its Use. THE Square marked D is two adjunct Sides of a Geometrical Square a The Handle b The Tongue c The Outer Square d The Inner Square For Joyner's use it is made of two pieces of wood the one about an Inch thick and the other about a quarter of an Inch thick These two pieces are severally shot exactly straight and have each of their Sides parallel to each of there own Sides The thick Piece called the Handle hath a Mortess in it as long within a quarter of an Inch as the thin piece called the Tongue is broad and stifly so wide as to contain the thickness of the Tongue The Tongue is fastned into the Mortess of the Handle with Glew and wooden pins so as the two outer sides and then consequently the two inner sides may stand at right Angles with one another The Reason why the Handle is so much thicker than the Tongue is because the Handle should on either side become a Fence to the Tongue And the reason why the Tongue hath not its whole breadth let into the end of the Handle is because they may with less care strike a line by the side of a a thin than a thick piece For if instead of holding the hand upright when they strike a line they should hold it never so little inwards the shank of a Pricker falling against the top edge of the Handle would throw the Point of a Pricker farther out than a thin piece would to avoid which Inconvenience the Tongue is left about half an Inch out of the end of the Handle Another Reason is That if with often striking the Pricker against the Tongue it becomes ragged or uneven they can with less trouble plane it again when the stuff is all the way of an equal strength than they can if cross-grain'd Sholders be added to any part of it It s use is for the striking of Lines square either to other Lines or to straight sides and to try the squareness of their Work by As if they would strike a Line square to a side they have already shot They apply the inside of the Handle close to the side shot and lay the Tongue flat upon the work then by the outerside of the Tongue they draw with a Pricker a straight line this is called Striking or drawing of a Square Or if they would Try the squareness of a Piece of stuff shot on two adjoining sides they apply the insides of the Handle and Tongue to the outsides of the stuff and if the outsides of the stuff do all the way agree in Line with the insides of the Square it is true Square Or if they would try the inward squareness of work they apply the two outsides of the Square to the insides of the work § 16. The manner of Plaining and Trying a piece of Stuff square We will take for Example a Piece of Stuff called a Quarter which is commonly two Inches thick four Inches broad and seven Foot long To plane this Square lay one of its broad sides upon the Bench with one of its ends shov'd pretty hard into the Teeth of the Bench-hook that it may lie the steddier Then with the Fore-Plane as you were taught § 2. Number 2. Plane off the roughness the Saw made at the Pit and work that side of the Quarter as straight in its length and breadth as you can with the Fore-Plane which you may give a pretty good guess at if the edge of the Iron have born all the way upon the work yet you may try by taking up your work and applying one end of it to one Eye whilst you wink with the other and observe if any Hollow or Dawks be in the length if not you may conclude it pretty true For the work thus held the Eye will discern pretty nearly Or for more certainty you may apply the edge of the two-foot Rule or rather a Rule shot the full length of the Quarter to your work and if it agree all the way with the Rule you may conclude it is straight in length But if you find it not straight you must still with the Fore-Plane work off those Risings that bear the edge of the Rule off any part of the Stuff Then try if the Breadth be pretty straight if it be the Dawks the roughness the Fore Plane made excepted the first office of the Fore Plane is perform'd If it be not you must straighten the Breadth as you did the Length But though this Quarter
is fastned with wedges over the Pit if the Joyner be accommodated with a Pit if he have none he makes shift with two high frames a little more than Man high in its stead called great Trussels with four Legs these Legs stand spreading outwards that they may stand the firmer Over these two Trussels the Stuff is laid and firmly fastned that it shake not It s outer side from whence the Pricks were set off must be Perpendicular which you must try by a Plumb-line for should the top edge of that side hang never so little over the bottom edge or the bottom edge not lie so far out as the top edge the Scantlin you Saw off would not be of an equal thickness on the Top or Bottom Because the Saw is to work exactly perpendicular Then with the Pit-Saw they enter the one end of the Stuff the Top-man at the Top and the Pit-man under him the Top-man observing to guide the Saw exactly in the line and withall drawing the Saw somewhat towards him when the Saw goes down and the Pit-man drawing it with all his strength perpendicularly down but not so low that the upper and lower handles of the Saw sink below both their managements Then bearing the Teeth of the Saw a little off the Stuff the Top-man draws the Saw up again and the Pit-man assists or eases him in it and thus they continue sawing on till the Saw has run through the whole length upon the Stuff But when the kerf is made so long that by the working of the Saw the Pieces of Stuff on either side will shake against one another and so more or less hinder the easie progress of the Saw they drive a Wedge so far in the kerf as they dare do for fear of splitting the Stuff and so provide the Saw freer and easier passage through the Stuff This Wedging they continue so oft as they find occasion MECHANICK EXERCISES OR The Doctrine of Handy-Works Continued in the ART of JOYNERY § 28. The Use of the Whip-Saw marked N in Plate 4. THE Whip-Saw is used by Joyners to Saw such greater pieces of Stuff that the Hand-Saw will not easily reach through when they use it the Stuff is laid upon the Trussel marked O in Plate 5. in the Angles of it Then two Men takes each an handle of the Saw He to whom the Teeth of the Saw points drawing to him and the other thrusting from him And as before the Saw having run its length is lifted gently over the Stuff to recover another stroak of the Saw § 29. The use of the Hand-Saw marked D the Frame or Bow Saw the Tennant-Saw marked O in Plate 4. These Saws are acommodated for a single Man's use and cut forward as the other Saws do The office of the Cheeks made to the Frame-Saw is by the twisted Cord and Tongue in the middle to draw the upper ends of the Cheeks closer together that the lower end of the Cheeks may be drawn the wider asunder and strain the Blade of the Saw the straighter The Tennant-Saw being thin hath a Back to keep it from bending § 30. The Use of the Compass-Saw marked Q Plate 4. The Compass-Saw should not have its Teeth Set as other Saws have but the edge of it should be made so broad and the back so thin that it may easily follow the broad edge without having its Teeth Set for if the Teeth be Set the blade must be thin or else the Teeth will not bow over the Blade and if it be thin considering the Blade is so narrow it will not be strong enough to abide tough work but at never so little an irregular thrust will bow and at last break yet for cheapness they are many times made so thin that the Teeth require a setting It s office is to cut a round or any other Compass kerf and therefore the edge must be made broad and the back thin that the Back may have a wide kerf to turn in § 31. Of the Rule marked D in Plate 5. The use of the Rule is to measure Feet Inches and parts of Inches which for that Purpose are marked upon the flat and smooth sides of the Rule and numbred with Inches and hath every Inch divided into two halfs and every half into two quarters and every quarter into two half-quarters so that every Inch is divided into eight equal parts And these Inches are numbred from one end of the Rule to the other which commonly is in all 24 Inches which is a Two-Foot Rule They have commonly both Board and Timber measure c. marked upon them for the finding both the superficial and solid Content of Board or Timber The use of which Lines and Tables having been often taught by others and being more Mathematical than Mechanical is unproper for me to meddle with in this Place but rather to refer to those Books But the manual use of it is either to measure length with it or to draw a straight line by the side of it or to Try the straightness or flatness of their Work with They Try their work by applying one of its edges to the flat of the wrought side of their Work and bring their Eye as close as they can to see if they can see light between the edge of the Rule and their Work If they cannot they conclude their work is Try and well wrought § 32. Of the Compasses marked E in Plate 5. aa The Joynt bb the Cheeks of the Joynt cc the Shanks dd the Points Their Office is to describe Circles and set off Distances from their Rule or any other measure to their Work § 33. Of the Glew-pot marked F in Plate 5. The Glew-pot is commonly made of good thick Lead that by its substance it may retain a heat the longer that the Glew I hill not as Work-men say when it cools when it is to be used § 34. Of Chusing and Boiling Glew The clearest driest and most transparent Glew is the best when you boil it break it with your Hammer into small pieces and put it into a clean Skillet or Pipkin by no means greasie for that will spoil the clamminess of the Glew put to it so much Water as is convenient to dissolve the Glew and to make it when it is hot about the thickness of the White of an Egg the quantity of water cannot be assigned because of the different quality there is in Glew keep it stirring whilst it is melting and let it not stick to the sides or bottom of the Vessel When it is well boiled pour it into your Glew-pot to use but let your Glew-pot be very clean When it is cold and you would heat it again in your Glew-pot you must take great care that it burn not to the sides or bottom of the Glew-pot for that burning either turns to a thick hard skin or else to a burnt Cinder-like Substance which if it mingle with the Glew will spoil it all because by its
and smooth as a Table Yet though the Rules Joyners and Carpenters work by are so near the same and the Tools they work with and Stuff they work upon the same yet there are many Requisites proper to a Carpenter especially a Master Carpenter that a Joyner need take little notice of which after I have described the Carpenters Tools that are not exprest among the Joyners I shall speak to § 1. Of several Tools used in Carpentry that are not used in Joynery And first of the Ax THe Ax marked A in Plate 8. is as you see different from what the Joyners Hatchet is both in size and form their 's being a light Hatchet with a Basil edge on its left side because it is to be used with one hand and therefore hath a short Handle But the Carpenter's Ax being to hew great Stuff is made much deeper and heavier and its edge tapering into the middle of its Blade It hath a long Handle because it is used with both their hands to square or bevel their Timbers When they use the Ax the Timber hath commonly some Bauk or Log laid under it near each end that the edge of the Ax may be in less danger of striking into the ground when they hew near the bottom of the Timber And they commonly stand on that side the Timber they hew upon § 2. Of the Adz and its use THe Adz marked B in Plate 8. hath its Blade made thin and somewhat arching As the Ax hath its edge parallel to its Handle so the Adz hath its edge athwart the Handle and is ground to a Basil on its inside to its outer edge wherefore when it is blunt they cannot well grind it unless they take its Helve out of its Eye It s general use is to take thin Chips off Timber or Boards and to take off those irregularities that the Ax by reason of its form cannot well come at and that a Plain though rank set will not make riddance enough with It is most used for the taking off the irregularities on the framed work of a Floor when it is framed and pin'd together and laid on its place for that lying flat under them the edge of the Ax being parallel to its Handle as aforesaid cannot come at the irregularities to take them off but the Adz having its edge athwart the Handle will Again upon some Posts framed upright and range with other framed work close to it the edge of the Ax cannot come at the irregularities for the reason aforesaid but the Adz will And the like for the irregularities of framed work on a Ceiling c. When they work upon the framed work of a Floor they take the end of the Handle in both their hands placing themselves directly before the irregularity at a small distance stradling a little with both their Legs to prevent danger from the edge of the Adz and so by degrees hew of the irregularity But if they hew upon an Upright they stand directly before it They sometimes use the Adz upon small thin Stuff to make it thinner but this is many times when the Ax or some other properer Tool lies not at hand and then they lay their Stuff upon the Floor and hold one end of it down with the Ball of the Foot if the Stuff be long enough if not with the ends of their Toes and so hew it lightly away to their size or form or both § 3. Of Carpenters Chissels in general THough Carpenters for their finer work use all the sorts of Chissels described in Exercise 4. yet are not those sorts of Chissels strong enough for their rougher and more common work and therefore they also use a stronger sort of Chissels and distinguish them by the name of Socket-Chissels For whereas those Chissels Joyners use have their wooden heads made hollow to receive the Iron Sprig above the Shoulder of the Shank Carpenters have their Shank made with an hollow Socket at its top to receive a strong wooden Sprig made to fit into that Socket with a square Shoulder above it the thickness of the Iron of the Socket or somewhat more which makes it much more strong and able to endure the heavy blows of the Mallet they lay upon the head of the Chissel And the Shanks and Blades are made stronger for Carpenters use than they are for Joyners Of these Socket Chissels they have of the several sorts described in Joinery though not all severally distinguished by their names for they call them Half-Inch Three-quarter-Inch Chissels Inch and half Two-Inch to Three-Inch Chissel according to the breadth of the Blade But their Uses are the same mentioned in Joinery though the manner of using them be somewhat different too For as I told you in Joinery the Joyners press the edge of the Blade into the Stuff with the strength of their Shoulders but the Carpenters with the force of the blows of the Mallet And the Joyners guide their Chissels differently from what the Carpenters do their Socket Chissels for the Joyners hold the Shank and Blade of their Chissels as I described in Numb 4. Sect. 11. but the Carpenters hold the Shank of their Chissels in their clutched left hand and beat upon the Head with the Mallet in the right See the Figure of the Socket Chissel in Plate 8. C. with its Head a out of the Socket § 4. Of the Ripping Chissel and its use THe Ripping Chissel described Plate 8. D. is a Socket Chissel and is about an Inch broad and hath a blunt edge It s edge hath not a Basil as almost all other Chissels have and therefore would more properly be called a Wedge than a Chissel But most commonly Carpenters use an old cast off Chissel for a Ripping Chissel It s office is not to cut Wood as others do but to rip or tear two pieces of wood fastned together from one another by entering the blunt edge of it between the two pieces and then knocking hard with the Mallet upon the head of the Handle till you drive the thicker part of it between the two pieces and so force the power that holds them together be it Nails or otherwise to let go their hold For its blunt edge should be made of Steel and well tempered so that if you knock with strong blows of the Mallet the Chissels edge upon a Nail though of some considerable substance it may cut or brake it short asunder If you cannot at once placing the Ripping-Chissel part the two pieces you must use two Ripping-Chissels placing the second at the remotest entrance in the breach and driving that home will both open the breach wider and loosen the first Ripping-Chissel so that you may take it out again and place it farther in the breach And so you must continue edging farther and farther till you have separated your intended pieces It is sometimes used when Carpenters have committed error in their work and must undo what they did to mend it But it
is generally used in all Alterations and old work § 5. Of the Draw-knife and its use THe Draw-knife described Plate 8. E. is seldom used about House-building but for the making of some sorts of Houshold-stuff as the Legs of Crickets the Rounds of Ladders the Rails to lay Cheese or Bacon on c. When they use it they set one end of their work against their Breast and the other end against their Work bench or some hollow angle that may keep it from slipping and so pressing the work a little hard with their Breast against the Bench to keep it steddy in its position they with the Handles of the Draw-knife in both their hands enter the edge of the Draw-knife into the work and draw Chips almost the length of their work and so smoothen it quickly § 6. Of Hook-Pins and their use THe Hook-Pin is described Plate 8. F. a the Pin b the Hook c the Head Its office is to pin the Frame of a Floor or Frame of a Roof together whilst it is framing or whilst it is fitting into its position They have many of these Hook-Pins to drive into the several angles of the Frame These they drive into the Pin-holes through the Mortesses and Tennants and being made taper do with a Hammer striking on the bottom of it knock it out again or they most commonly strike under the Hook and so knock it out Then if the Frame lie in its place they pin it up with wooden Pins § 7. Of the Level and its use THe Level described Plate 8. G. a a the Level b the Plumbet c the Plumb-line d d the Perpendicular mark'd from the top to the bottom of the Board The Level is from two to ten foot long that it may reach over a considerable length of the Work If the Plumb-line hang just upon the Perpendicular d d when the Level is set flat down upon the work the work is Level But if it hang on either side the Perpendicular the Floor or Work must be raised on that side till the Plumb-line hang exactly upon the Perpendicular § 8. Of the Plumb-line and its use THe Plumb-line is described Plate 8. H. a the Line Rowl b the Line It is used to try the upright standing of Posts or other work that is to stand perpendicular to the Ground Plot and then they draw off so much Line as is necessary and fasten the rest of the Line there upon the Line Rowl with a Slip-knot that no more Line turn off They hold the end of the Line between their Finger and Thumb half the Diameter of the Line Rowl off one corner of the Post or Work and if the Line and Corner of the Post be parallel to each other the Post is upright But if the Post be not parallel to the Line but its bottom stands more than half the Diameter of the Line Rowl from the Line the Post hangs so much over the bottom of the Post on that side the Line bears off and must be forced backwards till the side of the Post and the Line become parallel to each other But if the bottom of the corner of the Post stands out from the top of the Line the Post must be forced forwards to comply with the Line § 9. Of the Hammer and its use THe Hammer is described Plate 8. I. a the Face b the Claw c c the Pen at the return sides of the Claw This Tool was forgot to be described in Joynery though they use Hammers too and therefore I bring it in here It s chief use is for driving Nails into work and drawing Nails out of work There is required a pretty skill in driving a Nail sor if when you set the point of a Nail you be not curious in observing to strike the flat face of the Hammer perpendiculary down upon the Perpendicular of the Shank the Nail unless it have good entrance will start aside or bow or break and then you will be forced to draw it out again with the Claw of the Hammer Therefore you may see a reason when you buy a Hammer to chuse one with a true flat Face A little trick is sometimes used among some that would be thought cunning Carpenters privately to touch the head of the Nail with a little Ear-wax and then lay a wager with a stranger to the Trick that he shall not drive that Nail up to the Head with so many blows The stranger thinks he shall assuredly win but does assuredly lose for the Hammer no sooner touches the Head of the Nail but instead of entring the wood it flies away notwithstanding his utmost care in striking it down-right § 10. Of the Commander and its use THe Commander is described Plate 8. K. It is indeed but a very great wooden Mallet with an Handle about three foot long to use in both the hands It is used to knock on the Corners of Framed work to set them into their position It is also used to drive small wooden Piles into the ground c. or where greater Engines may be spared § 11. Of the Crow and its use THe Crow is described in Plate 8. L. a the Shank bb the Claws c the Pike-end It is used as a Lever to to sift up the ends of great heavy Timber when either a Bauk or a Rowler is to be laid under it and then they thrust the Claws between the Ground and the Timber and laying a Bauk or some such stuff behind the Crow they draw the other end of the Shank backwards and so raise the Timber § 12. Of the Drug and its use THe Drug described Plate 9. A. is made somewhat like a low narrow Carr. It is used for the carriage of Timber and then is drawn by the Handle aa by two or more men according as the weight of the Timber may require There are also some Engines used in Carpentry for the management of their heavy Timber and hard Labour viz. the Jack the Crab to which belongs Pullies and Tackle c. Wedges Rowlers great Screws c. But I shall give you an account of them when I come to the explanation of Terms at the latter end of Carpentry § 13. Of the Ten-foot Rod and thereby to measure and describe the Ground-plot WE shall begin therefore to measure the Ground-plot to which Carpenters use a Ten-Foot Rod for expedition which is a Rod about an Inch square and ten foot long being divided into ten equal parts each part containing one foot even as the Two-foot Rule described in Exercise 6. § 13. is divided into 24 equal parts and their Sub-divisions With this Rod they measure the length and breadth of the Ground-plot into Feet and if there be odd Inches they measure them with the Two-foot Rule Their measure they note down upon a piece of paper and having considered the situation of the Sides East West North and South they draw on Paper their several Sides accordingly by a small Scale either elected or
Board till the whole Floor be boarded But if these Boards are not long enough as I hinted before to reach through the whole Room they examine how true the ends lie in a straight line with one another by applying the edge of the two-Two-foot Rule to the ends and where the ends of any Boards keep of the edge of the two-Two-foot Rule from complying with the whole range of ends they with the Chissel and Mallet cut off that irregularity holding and guiding the Chissel so that it may rather cut away more of the bottom than top of the Board that so the Boards joined to the ends of the first laid Boards may make on the Superficies of the Floor the finer and truer Joint Having thus Boarded the whole Room notwithstanding they used their best diligence to do it exactly yet may the edges of some Boards lie somewhat higher than the Board it lies next to therefore they peruse the whole Floor and wherethey find any irregularities they plane them off with the Plane c. § 19. The Hanging of Doors Windows c. THe Floors being Boarded the next work is to Hang the Doors in which though there be little difficulty yet is there much care to be taking that the Door open and shut well If the Door have a Door-Case as Chamber-Doors and Closet-Doors commonly have the Jaums of the Door-Case must stand exactly perpendicular which you must try by the Plumb-line as by § 8. and the Head of the Door-Case or Entertise must be fitted exactly square to the Jaums as you where taught Numb 3. § 17 18 19. and the Angles of the Door must be made exactly square and the Rabbets of the Door to fit exactly into the Rabbets of the Door-Case But yet they commonly make the Door about one quarter of an Inch shorter than the insides of the Jaums of the Door-Case lest if the Boards of the Floor chance to swell within the sweep of the Door the bottom of the Door should drag upon the Floor They consider what sort of Hindges are properest for the Door they are to Hang. When they have a Street-door which commonly is to take off and lift on they use Hooks and Hindges In a Battend-door Back-door or other Battend-door or Shop-windows they use Cross-Garnets If a Framed Door Side Hinges And for Cup-board Doors and such like Duf-Tails See the description of these Hindges in Numb 1. Fig. 1. 5 6. But what sort of Hindges soever they use they have care to provide them of a strength proportionable to the size and weight of the Door they hang with them Well-made Hindges I have described Numb 1. fol. 20. Whither to avoid repetition I refer you If they hand a Street-door which is commonly about six foot high they first drive the Hooks into the Door-Post by entering the Post first with an Augure But the Bit of the Augure must be less than the Shank of the Hook and the hole boared not so long because the Shank of the Hook must be strongly forced into the Augure-hole and should the Augure-hole be too wide the Shank would be loose in it and not stick strong enough in it Therefore if the Shank be an Inch square an half-Inch-Augure is big enough to bore that hole with because it will then endure the heavier blows of an Hammer to drive it so far as it must go and the stronger it is forced in the faster the Hook sticks But yet they are carful not to split the Door-Post These Hooks are commonly drove in about Fifteen Inches and an half above the Ground-sell and as much below the top of the Door It is or should be their care to chuse the Pin of the lower Hook about a quarter of an Inch longer than that they use for the upper Hook or else to make it so because these Doors are commonly un-weildy to lift off and on especially to lift both the Hindges on both the Hooks at once Therefore when the lower Hindge is lifted on the lower Hook if the Door be then lift-perpendicularly upright so high as the under side of the upper Hindge may just reach the top of the upper Hook you may the easier slip the Eye of the upper Hindge upon the Hook whereas if the lower Hook be either shorter or just no longer than the other instead of lifting it readily upon the upper Hook you may lift it off the lower Hook and so begin the labour again Having drove in the Hooks they set the Rabbits of the Door within the Rabbits of the Door-Post and underlay the bottom of the Door with a Chip or two about half a quarter of an Inch thick to raise the Door that it drag not Then they put the Eyes of the Hindges over the Pins of the Hooks and placing the Tail piece of the Hindges parallel to the bottom and top of the Door they so nail them upon This is the Rule they generally observe for Hanging Doors Shop-windows c. Only sometimes instead of Nailing the Hindges upon the Door they Rivet them on for more strength And then after they have fitted the Door or Window into its Rabbits and laid the Hindges in there proper place and position as aforesaid they make marks in the Nail-holes of the Hindge with the point of their Compasses upon the Door and at those marks they Pierce holes with a Piercer-Bit that fits the shank of the Rivet then they put the shank of the Rivet through the holes made in the Door yet so that the Head of the Rivet be on the outside of the Door and they also put the end of the Shank into the Nail-hole of the Hindge and so whilst another man holds the head of the Hatchet against the Head of the Rivet they with the Pen of their Hammer batter and spread the flat end of the Shank over the Hole as was shewn Numb 2. fol. 24. 25. The Titles of some Books of Architecture SEbastion Seirlio in Folio Hans Bloom's Five Collumns Folio Vignola in Folio Vignola Or the Compleat Architect in Octavo Scamotzi Quarto Palladio Quarto Sir Henry Wotton's Elements of Architecture Quarto These Books are all Printed in English But there are many others extant in several other Languages of which Vitruvius is the chief For from his Book the rest are generally derived as Philip Le Orm Ditterlin Marlois and many others which being difficult to be had among Book-sellers and these sufficient for information I shall omit till another opportunity An Explanation of Terms used in Carpentry A. ADz Plate 8. B § 2. Arch Any work wrought Circular as the top part of some Window-frames the top of some great Gates the Roof of Vaults c. Architrave See Numb 6. Plate 6. 1. and Plate 6. A. § 1. Ax Numb 7. Plate 8. A. B. BAck or Hip-molding The backward Hips or Valley-Rafters in the way of an Angle for the back part of a Building Bannister Numb 8. Plate 11. g g g. Base is commonly the Bottom
of a Cullumn See Numb 6. Plate 6. h. and Plate 7. B. Batement To abate or waste a piece of Stuff by forming of it to a designed purpose Thus instead of asking how much was cut off such a piece of Stuff Carpenters ask what Batement that piece of Stuff had Batter the side or part of the side of a Wall or any Timber that bulges from its bottom or foundation is said to Batter or hang over the Foundation Battlement A flat Roof or Platform to walk on But Battlements are more properly Walls built about the Platform to inclose it as is seen upon Towers for defence Part of the Battlement being Breast high that Musquetiers may shoot over it the other part Man-high to secure Men from the shot of their Enemies Bauk a piece of Fir unslit from four to ten Inches square and of many lengths Bear Timber is said to Bear at its whole length when neither a Brick-wall or Posts c. stand between the ends of it But if either a Brick-Wall or Posts c. be Trimmed up to that Timber then it is said to Bear only at the distance between the Brick-wall or Post and either end of the Timber Thus Carpenters ask what Bearing such a piece of Timber has The answer is 10 12 15 c. Foot according to the length of the whole Timber or else according to the distance between either end of the Timber and a Bearer viz. a Post or Brick-wall that is Trimmed up between the two ends of a piece of Timber to shorten its Bearing Bond when Workmen say make good Bond they mean fasten the two or more pieces of Timber well together either with Tennanting and Mortessing or Duff-tailing c. Binding Joysts See Trimmers or Plate 10. b b b. Brace See Plate 11. b b b. Brad is a Nail to Floor Rooms with they are about the size of a Ten-penny Nail but have not their heads made with a shoulder over their shank as other Nails but are made pretty thick towards the upper end that the very top of it may be driven into and buried in the Board they nail down so that the tops of these Brads will not catch as the Heads of Nails would the Thrums of the Mops when the Floor is washing You may see them at most Ironmongers Break in Carpenters with their Ripping Chissel do often Break in to Bricks-walls that is they cut holes but indeed more properly break the Bricks by force and make their hole to their size and form Bressummer See Plate 11. C C D F F h h. Bring up A Term most used among Carpenters when they discourse Bricklayers and then they say Bring up the Foundation so high Bring up such a wall Bring up the Chimnies c. which is as much as to say Build the Foundation so high Build the Wall Build the Chimnies c. Butment The piece of Ground in the Yard marked G in Plate 10. is a Butment from the rest of the Ground-Plot Buttress that stands on the outside a Wall to support it C. CAmber A piece of Timber cut Arching so as when a weight considerable shall be set upon it it may in length of time be reduced to a straight Cantilevers Pieces of Wood framed into the Front or other sides of an House to sustain the Molding and Eaves over it Careass is as it were the Skelleton of an House before it is Lath'd and Plastered Cartouses Ornamented Corbels Cleer Story Window Windows that have no Transum in them Commander See Numb 7. Plate 8. K and § 10. Coping over is a sort of hanging over but not square to its upright but Bevelling on its under side till it end in an edge Corbel A piece of Timber set under another piece of Timber to discharge its Bearing Crab The Engine described Plate 9. E. and BCD several of its Appurtenances viz. BCC Snatch-Blocks D Levers It s Office is to draw heavy Timber to a considerable height Crow See Plate 8. L. Its Office is to remove heavy Timber and therefore for strength is made of Iron Crown Post See Plate 11. H. Also the King-Piece or Joggle-piece D. DIscharge A Brick-wall or a Post trim'd up to a piece of Timber over charg'd for its Bearing is a Discharge to that Bearing Dormer Plate 11. QR Double Quarters See Quarter Draft The Picture of an intended Building discribed on Paper whereon is laid down the devised Divisions and Partitions of every Room in its due proportion to the whole Building See Numb 7. § 13. Drag A Door is said to Drag when either by its ill Hanging on its Hinges or by the ill Boarding of the Room the bottom edge of the Door rides in its sweep upon the Floor See § 19. Dragon-beams are two strong Braces or Struts that stands under a Bressummer meeting in an angle upon the shoulder of the King-piece In Plate 11 ii are Dragon beams Draw knife described Plate 8. E and § 5. Draw Pins described Plate 8. F and § 6. Drug described Plate 9 E and § 12. E. ENter When Tennants are put into Mortesses they are said to Enter the Mortesses Enterduce or Entertise described Plate 11. CC. F. FEather-edge Boards or Planks that have one edge thinner than another are called Feather-edge stuff Fir-Pole A sort of stuff cut off of the Fir-tree small and long commonly from 10 to 16 Foot They are sometimes used in sleight Buildings to serve instead of Bauks and Quarters Flyers are Stairs made of an Oblong square Figure whose fore and backsides are parallel to each other and so are their ends the second of these Flyers stands parrallel behind the first the third behind the second and so are said to fly off from one anther Floor in Carpentry it is as well taken for the Fram'd work of Timber as the Boarding over it Foot-pace is a part of a pair of Stairs whereon after four or six steps you arrive to a broad place where you may take two or three paces before you ascend another step thereby to ease the legs in ascending the rest of the steps Furrings The making good of the Rafters Feet in the Cornice G. GAble or gable-Gable-end in Plate 11. IIK Gain The bevelling shoulder of a Joyst or other Stuff It is used for the Lapping of the end of a Joyst c. upon a Trimmer or Girder and then the thickness of the shoulder is cut into the Trimmer also Bevilling upwards that it may just receive that Gain and so the Joyst and Trimmer lie even and level upon their superficies This way of working is used in a Floor or Hearth Girder described Plate 10 QQ Ground Plate described Plate 11 A. Ground Plate The piece of Ground a Building is to be erected upon H. HAng over See Batter Hips described Plate 11. EE They are also called Principal Rafters and Sleepers Hook-pin described Plate 8. F. I. JAck described Plate 8. M. An Engine used for the removing and commodious placing of great Timber
Sheep and spun round of several thicknesses of which the Workman chuses such sizes as are aptest for is Work for large and heavy Work very thick but for small and light work thin And there are several reasons for his Choice for a thin String will be too weak for heavy Work but if it were not too weak for heavy work it would be apt to mark soft wood more than a thick String would when they are forc'd to shift the String and let it run upon the Work Besides a thin String though it were strong enough would not so well bring heavy Work about because being small but little of the String touches the wood to command it unless they wind it the oftner about the Work which both takes up time and hazards the breaking of the String by the fretting of the several twists against one another Now a thick String is uncommodious for small work because having a strength and stubbornness proportionable to its size it will not comply closely to a piece of Work of small Diameter but will be apt to slip about it unless both Pole and Tread be very strong and then if the Center-holes be not very deep and the Pikes fill them not very tight and the Puppets also not very well fixt the Strength of the String will alter the Center holes especially when the work is upon soft Wood or else it will endanger the breaking the Work in its weakest place ¶ 15. Of the Seat PArallel to the Cheeks on the inside the Lathe is fitted a Seat about two and an half Inches square and the whole length of the Lathe having an Iron Pin fastned on either end the underside of it It lies upon two Bearers of wood that are fastned athwart the outer sides the Legs or else to set it higher the outer ends of the Cheeks according to the height of the person that works at the Lathe These Bearers reach in length so far inwards as that they may be capable to bear the Seat so far off from the Lathe as in the Diameter of the Work they intend to Turn in the Lathe and also the bulk of the Workman that stands between the Lathe and it may be contained It is not called a Seat because it is so but because the Workman places the upper part of his Buttocks against it that he may stand the steddier to his Work and consequently guide his Foot the firmer and exacter The two Bearers have several Holes made in them from within sixteen Inches off the Lathe to the ends of them that the Iron Pins fastned in the ends of the Seat may be removed nearer or farther off the Lathe according to the greatness or smallness of the Diameter of their Work Having thus described the parts of a Common Lathe I shall now follow with their other Tools also § II. Of Gouges GOuges are marked BB in Plate 15. They do the Office of Fore-Plains in Joynery and the Jack-plains in Carpentry and serve only to take off the Irregularities the Hatchet or sometimes the Draw-knife leaves after the work is hewed or drawn pretty near a Round with either of them And therefore as the Fore-plain is made with a Corner-edge only to take off the Irregularities of a Board so the Gouge that it may also take off the Irregularities or Extuberancies that lie farthest from the Axis of the Work and also frame pretty near the hollow Moldings required in the Work precede the Smoothing-Chissels And that the Gouge may the more commodiously and effectually do it the Blade of this Tool is formed about half round to an edge and the two extream ends of this half round a little sloped off towards the middle of it that a small part about the middle may the easier cut off the prominencies that are not concentrick to the Axis and so bring the Work into a Method of Formation The hollow edge is ground upon the Corner of a Grind-stone which in short time wears the out-side of that Corner to comply and form with the hollow of the Gouge It is afterwards Set upon a round Whet-stone that fits the hollow of the edge or is somewhat less But they do not Set their Gouges or Chissels as I told you in Numb 4. § 10. the Joyners do for Turners Tools being somewhat unweldy by reason of their size and long Handles they lay the Blade of the Gouge with its convex side upon the Rest of the Lathe and so with the Whet-stone in their right hand they rub upon the Basil the Grind-stone made and as they rub they often turn another part of the hollow of the edge to bear upon the round of the Whet-stone till they have with the Whet-stone taken off the roughness of the Grind-stone Of these Gouges there are several sizes viz. from a quarter of an Inch to an whole Inch and sometimes for very large Work two Inches over The Handles to these Gouges and indeed to all other Turning Tools are not made as the Handles of Joyners or Carpenters Tools are but tapering towards the end and so long that the Handle may reach when they use it under the Arm-pit of the Workman that he may have more stay and steddy management of the Tool MECHANICK EXERCISES OR The Doctrine of Handy-Works Applied to the ART of TURNING § III. Of Flat Chissels THE Flat Chissels are marked CC in Plate 15. These do the Office of Smoothing Plains in Joyning and Carpentry for coming after the Gouges they cut off the prominent Risings that the Gouges leave above the hollow The edges of these Flat Chissels are not ground to such a Basil as the Joyners Chissels are which are made on one of the Flat sides of the Chissels But are Basil'd away on both the flat sides so that the edge lies between both the sides in the middle of the Tool And therefore either sides of the Tool may indifferently be applied to the Work which could not well be should the edge lie on one of the sides of the Tool Because if they should apply the Basil side of the Tool to the Work the thickness of the Basil would bear the edge of the Tool off And should they apply that side of the Tool the edge lies one to the Work the swift coming about of the Work would where a small irregularity of Stuff should happen draw or job the suddain edge into the Stuff and so dawk it which if the Stuff be already small enough would now be too small because in Turnings all Irregularities must be wrought smooth down Of those Flat Chissels there are several sizes viz. from a quarter of an Inch one Inch two Inches to three Inches broad according to the largness of the Work These are Set with the Whet-stone as the Gouges are only they often turn the Gouges upon the round side because they would smoothen all the hollow edge but these are laid flat upon the Rest and with a flat Whet-stone rubbed on the Basil as
the Rest and consequently with the Work which is parallel to the Rest for should you set the edge of the Chissel parallel to the Work it might run too fast into the Work and dawk it Therefore you must set the Chissel in such a position that the lower Corner or near the lower Corner of the edge may cut lightly upon the Work But this position is best described by a Figure which to that purpose I have inserted in Plate 14. at O where you may perceive in or near what position the Chissel must be set to cut the Work and how the edge of the Chissel a b lying aslant the Work and the further Corner of the edge of the Chissel b being somewhat mounted as the Work comes about the Bottom or near the Bottom of the edge of the Chissel is only capable to cut a narrow Shaving off the Work and just in this manner you must keep the Chissel steddy bearing upon the Work as the Pole comes down and withdrawing it from the Work as the Pole Springs up as you were taught to use the Gouge and at the same time sliding it forwards from one end of the Work to the other till it be wrought down all the way to its true Diameter between the points of the Callippers For then a straight Ruler applied to your Work the outside of your proposes Cilinder will be formed Only the ends must be cut down square to the length Therefore open the points of your Compasses to the distance of eight Inches on your Rule and prick that distance hard off upon your Work that the points of your Compasses may leave visible marks by placing one point as near one end as you can to leave Stuff enough to cut straight down all the way that is to cut it square down at right Angles with the outside of the Work Which to do you must hold the Handle of the Flat Chissel in your Right hand as before and clasp the Blade of it in your Left and lay one of the thin sides of it upon the Rest so that the edge may stand upright or very near upright against the Work Then sink your Right hand somewhat below the Level of the Rest that the lower Corner of the edge of the Chissel may mount and being thrust steddy against the Work just in the mark one Point of the Compasses made Tread the Treddle and cut a pretty deep Circle into the Stuff But you must have a care you do not direct the cutting Corner of the Chissel inwards but rather outwards left you make the end hollow instead of Flat For if you do take off too little at first you may by degrees cut it down to a Flat afterwards As you cut deeper into the Stuff you must turn the Flat of the Chissel and with it cut down the Shoulder just at the end on the outside the mark for else that may hinder the Corner of the Edge of the Chissel for coming at the Work Note that if you hold not the edge of the Chissel truly before the Work but direct it inwards and if you hold it not very steddy and have a good guidance of it the quick coming about of the Work may draw the edge of the Chissel into it inwards and run a dawk on Cilinder like the Grooves of a Screw and so spoil your Work For being once wrought to the true size you cannot afterwards take any more off to cleanse it c. The other end must be cut down as this § 14. Of Turning Flat Boards IF your Board be thick enough you may boar a round Hole in the middle of it and Turn a Mandrel with a Pin a very little Tapering to fit hard and stiff into the round Hole And if the Hole and Pin be proportionable in size to the weight of the Board the Pin will carry it about But you must be very careful the Hole be boared exactly straight through the middle and not inclining on either side the Board more to any part of the Verge than to another but that the middle of the Hole be exactly the Center of the Board the whole thickness through This Pin-Mandrel is described Numb 11. § 6. and Plate 13. If your Board be not thick enough to be fastned upon a Pin-Mandrel or that your Work will not admit of an Hole to be bored through the middle of it you may use the Flat Mandrel described Plate 13. F 2. And then you must with your Compasses find the Center on the backside of the Round Board with several proffers if need require till you have found it and prick there an Hole for a mark Then open the points of your Compasses to about the thickness of a Shilling wider than the Semidiameter of the Flat Mandrel and with the points of your Compasses at that distance describe a Circle on the backside of the Board to be Turned by placing one Foot in the prick mark and turning about the other Foot By this Circle you may pitch the Center of the Board exactly upon the Center of the Flat Mandrel For the points of the Compasses being opened about the thickness of a Shilling wider than the Semidiameter of the Flat Mandrel will when you have pitcht the Center of the Board on the Center of the Mandrel place the outer Verge of the Mandrel the thickness of a Shilling round about within the Circle described on the backside of the Board And when it is thus pitcht you may by laying the Board flat down knock upon the Rowler end of the Mandrel and drive the Pegs in the flat of the Mandrel into the Board and so hold it steddy upon the Mandrel Then find the Center on the Foreside of the Board also as you were taught to find the Center on the backside and put your Board and Mandrel upon the Pikes of the Puppets and screw them hard up as you have been taught before Sometimes Turners use this Flat Mandrel without Pegs and then they chalk the Flat side of it very well and clap the backside of the Board to it which will if the Board to be Turned be not too heavy but be well screwed up between the Pikes keep the Board steddy from slipping from its set-position till you work it If in going about of your Work you find it Wabble that is that one side of the Flat incline either to the Right or Left Hand you must with soft Blows of an Hammer or other Tool at hand set it to right and then again screw it hard up For so often as you thus strike upon the Verge to set the Board true you force the Steel point of the Pike more or less according to the softness of the Wood towards that side of the Verge you strike upon and therefore you may perceive a reason for screwing up the Pike so oft as you knock upon the outer Verge of the Board But we will now suppose the Board well pitcht and fastned on the Mandrel
Thirteen Inches and made Circular breadthways like an half Cylinder whose Diameter is about ten Inches or more and about half an Inch and half a quarter in thickness These are laid upon the upper part or ridge of the Roof and also on the Hips The Fourth sort are Pan-Tiles being about thirteen Inches long with a Nob or Button to hang on the Laths and are made hollow or circular breadthways being eight Inches in breadth and about half an Inch in thickness or somewhat more The best sort of these are brought from Holland into England and are called Flemmish Pan-Tiles we having such Tiles made here in England but not so good Which Flemmish Tiles are sometimes glazed and are of a Lead or blewish colour and being glazed they are very durable and handsom Having done with the Description of Tiles for the Covering of Roofs we come in the next place to treat of Morter and first of Lime being the chief Material of which the Morter is made for the Cementing or Joining of Tiles as well as Bricks together we will Treat of it in the first place Of Lime THere are two sorts one made of Stone which is the strongest and the other of Chalk both sorts being burnt in a Kilne The Lime that is made of soft Stone or Chalk is useful for Plastering of Seelings and Walls within Doors or on the insides of Houses and that made of hard Stone is fit for Structures or Buildings and Plastering without Doors or on the out side of Buildings that lies in the Weather and that which is made of greasy clammy Stone is stronger than that made of lean poor stone and that which is made of spongy stone is lighter than that made of firm and close stone that is again more Commodious for Plastering this for Building Also very good Lime may be made of Mill-stone not course and Sandy but fine and Greasy Likewise of all kinds of Flints but they are hard to burn except in a Reverbratory Kiln except those that are roled in the Water because a great part of its increase goes away by a kind of Glass But the Shells of Fish as of Cockles Oysters c. are good to burn for Lime And the Fire in Lime burnt Asswages not but lies hid so that it appears to be cold but Water excites it again whereby it Slacks and crumbles into fine powder Lime also is useful in divers things for 't is useful in Oyles and Wines and good to Manure Land with some season new Wine with it mittigating the unpleasantness of the Wine therewith Moreover quick Lime being cast into an Arched Vault and Water thrown upon it consumes dead Bodies put therein Also Diers and Tanners and likewise Physicians use it but they choose the newest to wit that which is is newly drawn out of the Kiln and not slack'd with Water or Air. It will burn so Vehemently that it makes crusts and will fire Boards or Timber against which it lies but being slackt for sometime it burns no more yet it warms and dries and dissolves Flesh and being washed three or Four times it Bites or Eats not but dries quickly Lime mixt with Sand is much used in Buildings and Vitruvius says that you may put three parts of Sand that is digged or pit Sand and one part of Lime to make Morter but if the Sand be taken out of a River or out of the Sea then two parts thereof and one of Lime as also to River or Sea Sand if you put a third part of Powder of Tiles or Bricks to wit Tile or Brick dust it works the better But Vitruvius his Proportion of Sand seems too much altho' he should mean the Lime before it is slacked for one Bushel of Lime before it is slack'd will be Five Pecks after 't is slack'd Here at London where for the most part our Lime is made of Chalk we put about Thirty Six Bushels of Pit Sand to Twenty Five Bushels of Quick-Lime that is about one Bushel and half of Sand to one Bushel of Lime And Lime mixt with Sand and made into Morter if it lie in an heap two or Three Years before 't is used it will be the stronger and better and the reason of so many insufficient Buildings is the using of the Morter as soon as 't is made as Agricola saith Moreover there is other Morter used in making of Water-courses Cisterns Fish-ponds c. which is very hard and durable as may be seen at Rome at this day which is called Maltha from a kind of Bitumen Dug there for as they build most firm Walls thereof naturally so they use it in making of Cisterns to hold Water and all manner of Water-works and also in finishing or Plastering of Fronts to represent Stone And I find two kinds of Artifices used by the Antients both of which is Compounded of Lime and Hogs-grease but to one is added the Juice of Figs and to the other Liquid Pitch and the Lumps of Lime are first wet or Slack'd with Wine then Pounded or beat with Hogs-grease and Juice of Figs or with the same and Pitch that which hath Pitch in it is blacker and easily Distinguished from the other by its Colour and that which is Plastered with this Tarrace is done over with Linseed Oil. Metalists use a kind of Tarrace in their Vessels for fining of Mettals that the melted Mettle run not out for as the Moderns restrain Water and contain it so the Antients this liquid Mettal and 't is compounded or made of Quick-Lime and Ox Blood the Lime being beat to Powder and sifted and then mixt with the Blood and beat with a Beater But their Cement differs from both the Malthas in Composition and use for 't is made of Dust or Powder of Marble and Glew made of Bull or Ox Leather and with this they glew pieces of Marble or Stones together In later times two kinds of Cement are in use in both which they use the Powder of Marble or other Stone to one is added the Whites of Eggs to the other is added Pitch to these some add other things as the Gravers of Gems they make it of Tile Dust and Pitch Another Material which Bricklayers use are Laths which are made of heart of Oak for out side Work as Tiling and Plastering and of Fir for inside Plastering and Pantile Lathing their usual lengths being 5 Foot and 4 Foot and sometimes longer or shorter their Breadth sometimes 2 Inches and one Inch and an half the thickness about 1 4 of an Inch or thicker But for Pantiling the Laths are about Ten Foot long one Inch and half Broad and half an Inch or more thick Another Material is Nails of which they use three sorts one is called Reparation or Lath Nails which are used for plain Tile Lathing and outside and inside Lathing for Plastring another sort are four Penny and Six Penny Nails used for Pantile Lathing and a third sort are great Nails for Scaffolding
Moreover they use Tile-Pins which are sometimes made of Oak and sometimes of Fir which they drive into holes that are made in the Plain Tiles to hang them upon their Lathing They also put Ox or Cow Hair into the Mortar which they use for Plastering being called Lime and Hair which Hair keeps the Mortar from Cracking or Chaping and makes it hold or bind together And whereas they make use of the sharpest Sand they can get that being best for Morter to lay Bricks and Tiles in so they choose a fat Loamy or Greasy Sand for Inside Plastering by reason it sticks together and is not so subject to fall assunder when they lay it on Seelings or Walls Having given you an account of the several Materials that are used in Bricklayers Work we shall in the next place Treat of their Tools and their uses which are as follows Tools used in Brick Work 1. A Brick Trowel to take up the Morter with and to spread it on the Bricks with which also they cut the Bricks to such lengths as they have occasion and also stop the joints 2. A Brick Ax with which they cut Bricks to what shape they please as some for Arches both streight and Circular others for the mouldings of Architecture as Archytrave Friez and Cornice 3. A Sawe made of Tinn to sawe the Bricks which they cut 4. A Rub-stone which is round and is about fourteen Inches diameter and sometimes more or less at pleasure on which they rub the Bricks which they cut into several shapes and also others which they cut not being call'd Rubbed Returns and Rubbed Headers and Stretchers A Square to try the bed of the Brick viz. that side which lies in the Morter with the superficies or face of the Brick to make the Brick square or at Rect-angles one side with the other which is done by rubing it on the Rub-stone till it exactly answers or fits to the Square 6. A Bevel by which they cut the undersides of the Bricks of Arches streight or circular to such oblique Angles as the Arches require and also for other Uses 7. A Small Trannel of Iron or a large Nail ground'd to a sharp point with which they mark the Brick either from a Square or Bevel or a Mould made of thin Wainscot or Pastboard to direct them in the cutting thereof 8. Some use a float Stone with which they rub the moulding of the Brick after they have cut it with the Ax pretty near to the Pattern described on the Brick by the Trannel from the Wainscot or Pastboard Mould that so they may make the Brick exactly to answer to the Pattern or Mould Others use no Stone at all but cut the Brick exactly to the Pattern with their Brick-Ax leaving the Ax stroaks to be seen on the Brick which if they be streight and parallel one to another look very prettily and is the truest way of Working but then they must take care to Ax the Brick off with an Ax that is exactly streight on the edge that the moulding in the Brick be neither round nor hollow from side to side of a Header or from end to end of a Stretcher 9. A Little Ruler about 12 Inches in length and 1 Inch and 1 2 broad which they lay on the Brick to draw streight Lines by with the Trannel or Nail 10. A Banker to cut the Bricks upon which is a piece of Timber about six foot long or more according to the number of those who are to work at it and 9 or 10 Inches square which must be laid on two Piers of Brick or fixt on Bearers of Timber about three foot high from the Floor on which they stand to work 11. They work up a Pier of Brick-work about the same height to lay their Rubbing-Stone upon which must be laid in Morter that it may lye fast 12. A Grinding-Stone to sharpen their Axes Hammers Trowels c. upon 13. A Pair of Line Pins of Iron with a length of Line on them about sixty feet in length to lay each Row or Course of Bricks level on the Bed and streight on the Surface by a Line seldom holding to strein or draw streight in length above 50 or 60 feet 14. A Plumb Rule about 4 foot long with a Line and Plummet of Lead to carry their Work upright or perpendicular withal 15. A Level about 10 or 12 foot long to set out their Foundations level or parallel to the Horizon and also to try whether the Walls of the Building or Jambs of Chimneys be carried level as they raise the Work that so they may bring up all their Brick-work to an exact horizontal height at the laying on of ever floor of Carpentry 16. A Large Square to set their Walls at rectangles which may also be done without a Square by setting 6 foot from the angle one way and 8 foot the other way then if the Diagonal line or Hypotenuse be exactly 10 feet the angle is a rectangle If not you must set the Wall that is to be at rectangles to the other either this or that way till the two measures of 6 and 8 feet answer exactly to 10 feet 17. A Ten Foot and a Five Foot Rod as also a Two Foot Rule to take and lay down Lengths and Breadths and Heights 18. A Jointing Rule about 10 foot long and about 4 Inches broad whereby to run the long Joints of the Brick-work 19. A Jointer of Iron with which and the foresaid Rule they joint the long Joints and also the Cross Joints these being done with the Jointer without the Rule 20. Compasses to describe the several Mouldings on Wainscot or Pastboard 21. A Hammer to cut Holes in Brick-work and drive Nails for Scarfolding 22. A Rammer to Ramm the Foundations 23. A Crow of Iron to dig through a Wall and also a Pick-Ax The Manner and Shapes of the foresaid Tools you may see in Plate 1. and the Name of each Tool in the Page next the Plate wherein they are delineated The Names and Uses of Tools relating to Tyling 1. A Lathing Hammer to nail on the Laths withal with two Gauge Stroaks for Lathing for Tyling cut upon the handle of it one at 7 Inches from the head and the other at 7 Inches and an half some indeed Lath at 8 Inches but that is too wide occasioning Rainings in 2. A Lathing Staff of Iron in the form of a Cross to stay the cross Laths while they are nailed to the long Laths and also to clinch the Nails 3. A Tyling Trowel to take up the Morter and lay it on the Tiles it being longer and narrower than a Brick-Trowel altho' for a shift many times they use a Brick-Trowel to Tyle withal when they have not a Tyling-Trowel 4. A Bosse made of Wood with an Iron Hook to hang on the Laths or on a Ladder in which the Labourer puts the Morter which the Tyler uses 5. A Striker which is only a piece of Lath about
of a Bevil streigth on the line K L bring the Tongue to touch the under side of the first Course of the Scheam then take up the Bevil and set that Bevil line upon the Sommering Mould of the Scheam which Bevil line serves for each Course in the Scheam but you must take the Bevil of each Course in the Hanse and set them upon your Sommering Mould by themselves and Number them with 1 2 3 4 c. because each Course varies Thus having made your Sommering Moulds in the next place you must make the Moulds for the length of your Stretchers and for the breadth of the Headers and the Closiers a piece of Wainscot 7 Inches long and 3 Inches and an half broad will serve for the length of the Stretchers and the breadth of the Headers the Closiers will be 1 Inch and 3 4 broad So the Closier will be half the breadth of the Header and the Header half the length of the Stretcher which will look well It remains now to speak something to the other part of the Arch to wit A D whose Courses both in Hanse and Scheam run alike upon the Ellipsis Lines and seem of one bigness although perhaps there may be some small matter of difference by reason I have not divided the Courses to this Figure from a right Angle but every Course from the Angle which it makes with the Ellipsis which I chose rather to do that so the Bevil of one Course might not seem to run more upon the Ellipsis than the Bevil of another and the difference of the thicknesses being so inconsiderate is not discerned Having described both the Ellipsis lines A D E G divide each of them into a like number of equal parts always remembring to make each Division on the upper Ellipsis line no greater than the thickness of the Brick will contain when it is wrought then through each Division in both the Ellipses draw streight lines continuing them 4 or 5 Inches above the upper Ellipsis Line and as much below the Lower Ellipsis Line then having provided some thin Sheets of fine Pastboard about 20 Inches square cutting one edge streight take one sheet and lay the streight edge even upon the line A E so that it may cover both the Ellipsis lines and being cut to advantage it may cover 8 courses or 9 of the streight Lines having laid it thus upon the figure of the Arch stick a Pin or two through it to keep it in its place then lay a Ruler upon the Past-board true to the 7 8 or 9th streight Line of the Arch according as the Past-board is in bigness to cover them and take a sharp Pen-knife laying the Ruler upon the Past-board true to the streight line whose ends being continued longer than the Arch is deep as I directed before will be seen beyond the Past-board and cut the Past-board true to the Line then take another sheet and join to it and cut it as you did the first so continue till you have covered the Arch from AE just to the line DG sticking Pins in each Sheet to keep them in the places where you lay them Then describe both the Ellipsis lines upon the Pastboard from the same Centres and Radii that you described the Ellipsis's under the Past-board and either divide the Ellipsis lines with the Compasses on the Past-board or else draw lines upon the Past-board from or by the streight lines underneath them whose ends you see but the surer way is to divide the Ellipsis's on the Past-board and draw Lines through those Divisions as you did beneath the Past-board then set 7 Inches being the length of each Stretcher from A towards E and from D towards G and describe from the former Centres the Ellipsis o o through each other course on the Past-board as you may see in the Fig. also set three Inches and an half being the breadth of the Header from A towards E and likewise from D towards G Also set the same 3 Inches and an half from E towards A and from G towards D and describe these two Ellipsis lines from the same Centres through each Course which the Ellipsis line of the Stretchers miss'd likewise draw in the same Courses two other Ellipsis lines one Inch and 3 4 from each of those two Lines you drew last which is the breadth of the Closiers thus one Course of the Arch will be divided into two Stretchers and the next to it into three Headers and two Closiers through the whole Arch this being done cut the Past-board according to the lines into several Courses and each other Course into two Stretchers and the Heading-courses into three Headers and two Closiers exactly according to the Sweep of the balcklead lines and mark each Course with Figures marking the first Course of the Hanse with 1 the next with 2 the third with 3 and so continue till you have marked all the Courses to the Key or middle for every Course differs you were best to mark the lower Closier in each Course with a Cipher on the left hand of its own number that you may know it readily from the upper Closier and make no mistakes when you come to set them also the middle Headers in each Course should be marked besides its own number the thickness of the upper Header being easily discerned from the lower Header needs no marking besides its own number the cross Joints and likewise the under side and upper side of each Course must be cut circular as the Past-boards which are your Moulds direct you If you will add a Keystone and Chaptrels to the Arch as in the Figure let the breadth of the upper part of the Keystone be the height of the Arch viz. 14 Inches and Sommer from the centre at I then make your Chaptrels the same thickness that your lower part of the Keystone is and let the Keystone break without the Arch so much as you project or Sale over the Jaums with the Chaptrels Other kind of Circular Arches as half Rounds and Scheams being described from one Centre are so plain and easy that I need say nothing concerning them But since Streight Arches are much used and many Workmen know not the true way of describing them I shall write something briefly concerning them Streight Arches are used generally over Windows and Doors and according to the breadth of the Piers between the Windows so ought the Skew-back or Sommering of the Arch to be for if the Piers be of a good breadth as 3 or 4 Bricks in length then the Streight Arch may be described as it s vulgarly said from the Oxi which being but part of a Word is taken from the word Oxigonium signifying an Equilateral Triangle with three sharp Angles but if the Piers are small as sometimes they are but the length of two Bricks and sometimes but one Brick and an half then the breadth of the Window or more may be set down upon the middle Line for the
Centre which will give a less Skew-back or Sommering than the Centre from an Oxi I will shew how to describe them both ways and first from the Oxi Suppose a Streight Arch one Brick and an half in height to be made over a Window 4 feet in width See Fig. 4. wherein one half of the Arch is described from the Oxi and the other half from the width of the Window let the width of the Window be A B taking the width between the Compasses from A and B as two Centres describe the two Arches intersecting each other at P though I speak here of Compasses yet when you describe the Arch to its full bigness you must use a Ruler or a Line scarce any Compasses being to be got large enough Then draw another Line above the line A B as the line CD being parallel to it at such a height as you intend your Arch to be as in this Fig. at 12 Inches but most commonly these sort of Arches are but 11 Inches in the height or thereabouts which answers to 4 Courses of Bricks but you may make them more or less in height according as occasion requires then laying a Ruler on the Centre P and on the end of the line A draw the line A C which is vulgarly called the Skew-back for the Arch. The next thing to be done is to divide those two lines A B and C D into so many Courses as the Arch will contain the thickness of a Brick being one of them which some do by dividing the upper line into so many equal parts and from those parts and from the Centre P draw the Sommering Lines or Courses others divide both the upper and lower line into so many equal parts and make no use of a Centre but draw the Courses by a Ruler being laid from the Divisions on the upper line to the Divisions on the lower line both which ways are false and erroneous but this by way of caution Having drawn the Skew-back A C take between your Compasses the thickness that a Brick will contain which I suppose to be two Inches when it is rub'd and setting one Point of the Compasses on the line C D So that when you turn the other Point about it may just touch the line A C in one place and there make a Prick in the line C D but do not draw the Sommering lines until you have gone over half the Arch to see how you come to the Key or middle and if you happen to come just to the middle line or want an Inch of it then you may draw the lines but if not then you must open or shut the Compasses a little till you do Then keeping one end of the Rule close to the Centre at P. the surest way is to strike a small Nail in the Center P and keep the Rule close to the Nail lay the other end of the Rule close to the Prick that you made on the line C D keeping the Compasses at the same width viz. 2. Inches set one Point of the Compasses on the line C D as before so that the other Point being turned about may just pass by the Rule and as it were touch it in one place you must remove the Point of the Compasses upon the line C D farther or nearer to the Rule until it just touch the Rule in one place and so continue with the Rule and Compasses until you come to the middle line and if it happen that your last space want an Inch of the middle then the middle of the Key-course will be the middle of the Arch and the number of the Courses in the whose Arch will be odd but if the last space happen to fall just upon the middle line E F as it doth in the Fig. then the Joint is the middle of the Arch but if it should happen neither to come even to the line nor want an Inch of it then you must open or shut the Compasses a small matter and begin again till it doth come right and the number of the Courses in the whole Arch is an even Number Note When the number of all the Courses in the Arch is an even Number then you must begin the two sides contrary viz. A Header to be the lower Brick of the first Course on one side or half of the Arch and a Stretcher the lower Brick of the first Course on the oother side or half of the Arch And contrariwise if it happen that the Number of the Courses be an odd Number as 25 or 27 or such like then the first Courses of each half of the Arch must be alike that is either both Headers or both Stretchers at the botom Thus having described the Arch the next thing to be done is to make the Sommering Mould which to do get a piece of thin Wainscot being streight on one edge and having one side Plained smooth to set the Bevil strokes upon about 14 Inches long and any breadth above two Inches then laying your Ruler one end at the Centre P and the other end even in the Skew-back line clap the streight edge of the Wainscot close to the Rule so that the lower end of the Wainscot may lye a little below the line A B then take away the Center Rule but stir not the Wainscot and laying a Ruler upon the Wainscot just over the line C D strike a line upon the Wainscot then set one Point of the Compasses being at the width of a Course viz. 2 Inches upon that line so that the other Point being turned about may just touch the streight edge of the Wainscot as you did before in dividing the Courses then make a Prick on the line on the Wainscot and laying your Centre Rule upon it and on the Centre P draw a line upon the Wainscot by the Ruler with a Pencil or the Point of a Compass and cut the Wainscot to that line and make it streight by shooting it with a Plain then your Wainscot will fit exactly between any two lines of the Arch you may let it want the thickness of one of the lines or some small matter more which is enough for the thickness of a Mortar the length of your Stretcher in this Arch may be 8 Inches and 1 4 and the Header 3 Inches and 3 4 but if your Arch be but 11 Inches in height then make your Stretcher 7 Inches and 1 2 long and the Header 3 Inches 1 2 one piece of Wainscot will serve both for the length of the Stretcher and the length of the Header making it like a long square or Oblong whose sides are 8 Inches 1 4 and 3 Inches and 3 4. Then take a Bevil and laying the inner edge of it streight with the line A B and the Angle of the Bevil just over the Angle at A take off the Angle that the Skew-back line A C makes with the line A B and set it upon the smoothed side of your Sommering Mould for the Bevil
be thus plained straight in length and breadth yet because the Iron of the Fore Plane for its first working the stuff is set Rank and therefore makes great Dawks in the Stuff you must set the Iron of your Fore Plane finer as you were taught § 3. Number 2. and with it then work down even almost to the bottom of those Dawks then try it again as before and if you find it Try all the way you may with the Joynter or Smoothing Plane but rather with the Joynter go over it again to work out the irregularities of the fine Fore-Plane For the Iron of the Fore-Plane being ground to a Rising in the middle as has been shewed § 2. Numb 2. though it be very fine set will yet leave some dawks in the Stuff for the Joynter or smoothing Plane to work out Thus the first side of the Quarter will be finished Having thus Tryed one side of the Quarter straight and flat apply the inside of the Handle to it and if one of the adjoining sides of the Quarter comply also with the inside of the Tongue all the way you need only smooth that adjoining side But if it do not so comply that is if it be not square to the first side which you will know by the riding of the inside of the Tongue upon one of the edges or some other part between the edges you must with the Fore-Plane Rank-set plane away that stuff which bears off the inside of the Tongue from complying all the way with it But if the Risings be great you may for quickness hew away the Risings with the Hatchet but then you must have a care you let not the edge of your Hatchet cut too deep into the stuff lest you either spoil your Stuff by making it unsizeable if it be already small enough or if it have substance enough make your self more labour to get out those Hatchet stroaks with the Plane than you need Then take off the roughness the Hatchet made with the Fore-Plane Rank-set then fine set and last of all with the Joynter or smoothing Plane So is the second side also finished To work the third side set the Oval of the Gage exactly to that width from the Gage that you intend the Breadth of the Quarter when wrought shall have which in this our Example is four Inches but will be somewhat less because working it true will diminish the Stuff Therefore sliding the Oval on the Staff measure on your Inch Rule so much less than four Inches as you think your stuff diminishes in working Measure I say between the Oval and the Tooth your size If at the first proffer your Oval stand too far from the Tooth hold the Oval in your hand and knock the Tooth end of your Staff upon the Work-Bench till it stand near enough If the Oval stand too near knock the other end of the Staff upon the Work-Bench till it be fit Then apply the flat of the Oval to the second wrought side of your Stuff so as the Tooth may reach athwart the breadth of the Stuff upon the first side and keeping the Oval close against the second side press the Tooth so hard down that by drawing the Gage in this posture all along the length of the Quarter the Tooth may strike a Line In like manner upon the side opposite to the first viz. the Fourth side Gage another line opposite to the first gaged line and work your Stuff down to those two Gaged lines on the third side either with Plaining along or with Hewing and afterwards Plaining as you were taught to work the second side To Work the fourth side set the Tooth of the Gage to its exact distance from the Oval viz. two Inches wanting so much as you think the stuff diminish'd in working and apply the flat of the Oval to each side of the first side and Gage as before two lines one on the second the other on the third wrought side Work your stuff then down on the fourth side to those two Gage lines either with Plaining alone or with Hewing and afterwards Plaining as you were taught to work the second side § 17. To Frame two Quarters Square into one another You must take care in Mortessing and Tennanting that as near as you can you equallize the strength of the sides of the Mortess to the strength of the Tennant I do not mean that the stuff should be of an equal Substance for that is not equallizing strength But the equallizing strength must be considered with respect to the Quality Position and Substance of the Stuff As if you were to make a Tennant upon a piece of Fur and a Mortess to receive it in a piece of Oak and the Fur and Oak have both the same size The Tennant therefore made upon this piece of Fur must be considerably bigger than a Tennant need be made of Oak because Fur is much a weaker wood then Oak and therefore ought to have a greater Substance to equallize the strength of Oak And for Position the shorter the stuff that the Tennant is made on the less Violence the Tennant is subject to Besides it is easier to split wood with the grain than to brake wood cross the grain and therefore the same wood when posited as a Tennant is stronger than the same wood of the same size when posited as a Mortess for the injury a Mortess is subject to is splitting with the grain of the wood which without good care it will often do in working but the force that must injure a Tennant must offend it cross the grain of the wood in which position it will best indure violence When two pieces of Wood of the same quality and substance as in this our Example are elected to make on the one a Tennant and in the other a Mortess If you make the Mortess too wide the sides of the Mortess will be weaker than the Tennant or if too narrow the Tennant that must fit the Mortess will be weaker than the sides that contain the Mortess And if one be weaker then the other the weakest will give way to the strongest when an equal violence is offer'd to both Therefore you may see a necessity of equallizing the strength of one to the other as near as you can But because no Rule is extant to do it by nor can for many considerations I think be made therefore this equallizing of strength must be referred to the Judgment of the Operator Now to the work The Mortess to be made is in a Quarter four Inches broad In this case Workmen make the Mortess an Inch wide so that an Inch and an half Stuff remains on either side it Therefore your Stuff being squar'd as was taught in the last Section set the Oval of the Gage an Inch and an half off the Tooth and gage with it on either side your Stuff a straight line at that distance from the end you intend the Mortess shall be then open
Projection of all the appearing Constellations in this Horizon with their Figures and Shapes And besides several new things in it differing from the Common Astrolabe tending to a clearer and quicker way of Operating the vere Principles of all Steriographical Projections are laid down and Mathematically demonstrated as it is of every thing else of moment throughout the whole Treatise An Epitome to the whole Art of War In two parts The first of Millitary Discipline Containing the whole Exercise of the Pike and Musquet c. with plain Directions for the Various postures Also the drawing up of Battalions and way of Forming them with the Art of Doubling Wheeling Forming and Drawing up an Army into any Figure The way of Conducting Armies in Hilly Woody or plain Countries Of Encampings Besiegings given of Battle c. The Second of Fortification and Gunnery which shews the principals and practice of Fortification as now used as well by the English as several other European Nations especially Their Majesties Army at the late Seige of Athlone Galway Limrick c. The Measures Dimensions of Rampers parapets Moats c. Of Casements Cittadels Crown-works Ravelins c. of Gunnery the qualification of a Gunner Of Ordinance Morters Demy-Cannon c. with the Manner of Batteries c. All Illustrated and further Explanted in 18 Copper plates ously Designed and Engraven price 2 s. Military Geography in Twelve Maps viz. France the Channel Dunkerk Flanders Namur and Haynault the palatine of the Rhine the Suises Savoy Daufine c. province Hungaria Graecia Candia Giving a General and particular Description of the Seats of War in Europe by J. Moxon price coloured 2 s. stitched 1 s. and 6 d. Gnomonigues or the Art of Shadows improved plainly set forth in Drawing of Sun-Dials on all sorts of plains by different Methods with the Geometrical Demonstrations of all the Operations price 3 s. MECHANICK EXERCISES OR THE DOCTRINE OF Handy-Works Applied to the ART of Bricklayers-Works LONDON Printed for and Sold by J. Moxon at the Atlas in Warwick-Lane and at his Shop at the Entrance of the West End of Cornhill 1700. MECHANICK EXERCISES OR The Doctrine of Handy-Works Applied to the Art of Bricklayers-Work Definition BRicklayers-Work is an Art Manual which Joins several Bodies so together that they adhere like one entire Body Whether the White Mason which is the Hewer of Stone or the Red Mason which is the Hewer of Brick be the most Ancient I know not but in holy Writ we read of making of Bricks before we read of Digging or Hewing of Stone therefore we may suppose the Red Mason or Bricklayer to be the most ancient The method that I shall use in Treating of this Art shall be this First I will shew what Materials they use and their Composition Secondly I will treat of their Tools and describe their Names and Uses Thirdly I will declare their Method of Working both in Bricks Tiles c. And First of Materials WHich are Comprised under Six heads viz. 1. Bricks 2. Tiles 3. Morter 4. Laths 5. Nailes 6. Tile-pins Of Bricks THey are made of Earth of which the whiteish Chalky sort of Earth and the Redish are the best At Lunenburgh in Saxony they make them of a fat Earth full of Allom. Also there are good Bricks made at Pitane in Asia of a Pumice sort of Earth which being dryed will swim in Water and not Sink Likewise the Antients made them of Earth which was Sandy But here in England they are made for the most part of a yellowish coloured fat Earth somewhat Redish And they are made of several sorts and sizes IN Holland they make small ones being about Six Inches long Three Inches Broad and One Inch in thickness Which sort of Bricks is commonly used here in England to Pave Yards or Stables withal and they make a good Pavement and are very Durable and being laid edge ways looks handsomly especially if laid Herring-bone fashion They are also used in Soap-boilers Fat 's and in making of Cisterns THE Common Bricks that are made here in England are Nine Inches in Length Four Inches and 1 4 in Breadth and Two and an half in Thickness and sometimes Three Inches thick Most Counties in England afford Earth for the making of Bricks BUT the best Earth that we have in England for making of Bricks is in the County of Kent from whence we have most of the Bricks which are Rubbed and Hewed for the Ornaments of the chief Fronts in the City of London The Ornamental part of which Fronts are done with the Reddest Bricks they can pick from among them and the Rough or Plain Work is done with the Grey Kentish Bricks also those Grey Kentish Bricks are used in making of Cisterns to hold Water and Horse-Ponds and also Fat 's for Soap-Boilers and I am of the Opinion that no time will Impair or decay those Grey Kentish Bricks But as Pliny says speaking of Bricks that they will last to Eternity There are also in most Counties of England Bricks made for the Paving of Floors of Rooms Cellars Dary-houses c. which are made of a stonger sort of Earth than the Common Bricks for Building the Earth being a kind of Clay and in some Countries are called Clay Bricks which are dearer than the Ordinary Bricks by about Six Shillings in a Thousand Likewise in several Counties but chiefly in Surrey are made Paving Tiles of Three several Magnitudes the largest sort being Twelve Inches long and Twelve broad and one Inch and an half in Thickness The Second sort are Ten Inches long and Ten Inches Broad and one Inch and a Quarter thick The Third sort are Eight Inches long Eight Broad and one Inch thick Either of which sorts being Pollished or rubbed with sharp Sand on the Surface and the joints made exactly square and the sides equal by hewing them with a Brick Ax and rubbing them on a rubbing Stone with sharp Sand makes an Excellent Pavement and pleasing to the Eye especially when laid Arris ways Having thus described the several sorts of Bricks and also Paving Tiles we come in the next place to Treat of Tiles made and used in the Covering of Roofs of Houses both Publick and Particular of which are Four sorts or Kinds The First sort are called Plain Tiles being made of a strong sort of Earth like Clay and are or should be Ten Inches and an half in Length in Breadth Six Inches and a Quarter and in Thickness Three quarters of an Inch. The second sort are Gutter or Hip Tiles which are used sometimes for Vallies and Hips of Rooffs altho' here at London the Vallies are commonly Tiled with Plain Tiles and the Hips with Ridge or as some call them Roof Tiles These Gutter Tiles are in Length Ten Inches and an half with convenient Breadth and Thickness accordingly and are made Circular or hollow and wider at one end than at the other The third sort are Ridge or Roof Tiles being in length