So doth your Walnut Chesnut Horse-Chesnut Peaches Almonds Apricocks Plumbs c. and the onely difference from Beans and Pease is that these Stone-fruits put forth at the small ends and the other alwayes at the sides In like manner there be several sorts of Trees and most sorts of Plants that be small which put forth Root at the small end and as soon as that Root hath laid hold of the ground they then send out two false Leaves nothing like those that grow on the Tree or Plant which two false Leaves are the seed which divides into two parts and so stand some small time on the top of the ground and then between these two false Leaves comes forth a Shoot which produceth leaves like those of the Tree or Plant from whence it came Of this way of growth there be an infinite number both of Trees and Plants as the Elm Ash Sycamore Maple Pear Apple Quince and the most sorts of the seeds of Trees which are not environed by Stones or Shells of seeds the Melon Parsnip Carrot Carduus Angelica and indeed most sorts of seeds CHAP. V. Of the several wayes to raise Forrest-trees or others and how to perform the same by Laying THose sorts of Trees which will grow of Cuttings are the easiest to raise by Layings some of which sorts you may see in the next Chapter Now touching the best time for laying your Layers of Trees observe that if they be Trees that hold their Leaf all Winter as Firres Pines Holly Yew Box Bayes Lawrels Elix c. Let such be laid about the latter end of August But if they be such as shed their Leaf in Winter as Oak Elm Line Sycamore Apple Pear Mulberry c. let such be laid about the middle of October I do grant that you may lay at any time of the Year but these times I take to be the best for then they have the whole VVinter and Summer to prepare and draw Root in at that time of the year the Sun having so much power on the sap of the Tree as to feed the Leaf and Bud but not to make a shoot and if that little sap that rises be hindred as it is by some of the following wayes of laying the Leaves and Buds yet gently craving of the Layer makes the Layer prepare for Root or put forth root a little to maintain it self being it finds it cannot have it from the Mother-plant and being it wants but little Nourishment at that time of the Year I think it is better to lay Layers of Trees and to set Cuttings than at other times In Summer when the sap is much abounding or in VVinter when the sap stirres little or in the Spring when the sap begins to rise for then it comes too suddenly to draw sap from the Layer before it hath drawn or prepared for root for Nature must be courted gently though I know in small Plants the Spring or Summer doth very well for they being short-lived are therefore the quicker in drawing root and besides that Trees are many times laid as they are not As for those Trees that are apt to grow of Cuttings take but some of the boughs and lay them into the Ground covering them about half a foot with fresh fine Mould leaving them with the end of your Layer about one foot or a foot and a half out of the ground keeping them moist in Summer and in Twelve Months time you may remove them if rooted if not let them lie longer Another way is take a Bough you intend to lay and cut it half way through right cross the wood then slit it up towards the end half a foot or according as your Layer is in bigness lay the slitted place into the ground and you shall find that slitted place take root if laid as the former and so ordered This way you may encrease many fine Flowers and small Plants but they being out of my Element at this time I shall not speak of the ordering them for fear I seem tedious to some Another way to lay a Layer of a Tree is take a piece of VVyer and tie it hard round the bark of the place you intend to lay into the ground twisting the ends of the VVier that it may not untie prick the place above the VVier thorough the bark with an Aul in several places then lay it into the ground as the first A fourth way of Laying of trees is Cut a place round about one Inch or two where you find it most convenient to lay into the ground and so proceed as is shewed in the first way of Laying A Fifth way to lay some sorts of Trees is to twist the place you intend to lay into the ground as you do a withe and lay it as is shewed in the first way of Laying by this way and the first you may furnish your Woods and Hedges For they being easie any ordinary man will perform the same Thus you may from one Stub as a Sallow or the like between one Fall and another of your VVood for a Rod square of Ground and more if that one Stub produce but strong shoots fill it well with Wood For when the Stub hath got two or three years shoot then lay round it as before at large is shewed there letting them remain to produce new Stubs But if you would increase by laying some young Trees from an high Standard whence you cannot bend the boughs down to the ground then you must prepare either Box Basket or Pot and fill them full of fine sifted Mould putting a little rotten VVillow-dust with this Earth for that keeps Moysture to help the Layer to draw root then set the Pot or Box thus fill'd with Earth upon some Tressel or Post as your Ingenuity will direct you then lay your Bough by the second third or fourth way of Laying leaving not too much head out because the wind will offend it if you doe and by its own motion be likely to rub off the tender young Root and thus lay your Hops this way These things observed you may raise many choyse Trees as Mulberry Hors-Chesnut c. These Rules may instruct you sufficiently concerning the propagation of Trees by Laying but let me tell you it is hard to raise a fine straight Tree by a Layer or Cutting I have hinted at the Reasons before Note the smaller your Boughs be Set them the less out of the ground and keep them clean from VVeeds that they spoyl not your Layers Alsonote that the harder the VVood is then the young VVood will take root best laid in the ground but if a soft VVood then older boughs will take Root best Now you that be Lovers of wood make use of these sure Directions and if you repent then blame me CHAP. VI. Of those sorts of Trees that will grow of Cuttings and how to perform the same IF your Ground be moist you may Set with success any sort of Willow Sallow or Osier
be broke and the Tree old cut it off at a distance from the Body but little boughs close 12. If a Tree be blasted in part or the whole head cut all that is blasted or dead close off to the Quick and take out all dead boughs Keep Catterpillers from the heads of young Trees lest they eat off the Leaves and Buds and kill your Tree 13. Take care to destroy Moles and Mice by Traps or Poyson for Moles will make hollow the Ground and much harm your young Trees Mice will eat all the Bark off round the Body in hard Winters and kill your Tree but mind you in time to prevent them 14. Rooks do destroy many a Tree both old and young before their time As to old Trees by pinching off the tops and breaking off the Buds and young Trees by lighting on their heads their weight breaking off their young tender shoots and Buds causes the Trees to die and also they destroy Seedlings where they breed their Dung brings forth great weeds as Nettles c. and so choaks the young Seedlings therefore kill all of them you can at breeding-time by shooting them and setting Lime-twips on the tops of your young Trees You 'l thrive the better if you destroy them CHAP. XXXVI Of Felling and Ordering Woods and Coppices IF you love to have a thriving Wood and to improve it for your best Advantage your best way is not to let it stand too long before you fell for the oftener you fell your under-wood the thicker it will be as at ten or twelve years growth on a shallow ground and twelve or fourteen years growth on your deep Soyl and best grounds for there be many Inconveniencies in letting your Woods stand too long before you fell them or Trees in Woods that do not prosper First When you let your Woods or Coppices stand long before you fell them you cannot come to survey your Timber-trees to see which be decaying and in so doing you are uncharitable to your Countrey no good Common-wealthsman no good Husband for your self and no good Christian For why should any Reasonable man let his Trees stand in his Woods or elsewhere with dead tops hollow Trunks Limbs falling down upon others and spoyling them dropping upon young Seedlings under it and killing them The ill husband while many of his Neigbours want such Timber nay possibly he himself there he lets his Trees stand which were formerly worth 10 or 5 l. a Tree or more till they be not worth the half that they were Here he loseth the use of his Money more than Twenty in the Hundred if it be an Oak he loses the Bark with the use of the Ground where 't is likely several young Trees might have been if that had been taken down in time I know that some persons of Quality say that this is a great Ornament to their Ground But I think no greater than it would be to their persons to wear a Garment very Old with half a skirt a piece of a Sleeve and all the Trimming off But I shall never pronounce such Judgement against trees having ten times more Mercy Such as be thriving unless they stand too thick I would intreat you not to cut down for you do not lose so much by suffering the Tree that is decaying to stand but you hinder you or yours as much in cutting down a young thriving Tree There are too many men in this Kingdom who before they sell their Estates will many times fell off all their Timber that was good and which would have thriven well for many years and so by the Moneys they make of that they lengthen out the time before they sell I wish that my Vote though single could perswade those men that are resolved to sell such Timber that they would also sell their Land with it and I do not question but the Purchaser if a Lover of Timber as most Purchasers are would then give more for the Timber to stand by at least 12 d. in the pound rather than have another man to buy it off from his Ground I once observed an Ash-tree in the Wood-walks at Cashiobury which stood in the Walk that I made through the Wood-walks to Hemsteed High-way which Ash I measured as followeth according to the customary way of measuring by the Line of Numbers it was a fine straight tree tapering a little so that I needed but to girth it in one place it girthed just 72 Inches and was 58 foot long from the place where the Root was sawn off to the place where the head was cut off The fourth part of 72 Inches is 18 Inches The Rule is as 12 To 18 the Square in Inches So is 58 foot the Length To a fourth Number And that fourth Number tells you the content in feet c. Extend the Compasses one point fixed in 12 the side in Inches of a superficial foot square to 18 Inches the square of the Tree keep the Compasses fixed and set one point on 58 the Length of the Tree in feet but it must be the 58 on the left hand or else the Compasses will go off the Rull and then turn the Compasses twice to the Right hand and the last movable point of the Compasses will fall upon 130 foot and something above a half but that Division is so small a man cannot read well how much it is if it be above half a foot This is the customary way with most men to measure trees though it makes less than there is which in reason ought to be considered in the price and not in the false measure but I will here shew you how to work both the customary and the true way by the Rules of Natural Arithmetick that so you may trie whether you have measured right by the Rule and Compass or no and also that you may see the sweet Agreement between Geometry and Arithmetick And first to work it by the customary way here we take the fourth part of the Circumference to be the side of the square of the Tree though erroneous and measure it as a Cylinder The fourth part of 72 In. is 18 In. which multiplyed in its self gives 324 the superficial Inches of one end Then 58 the Length multiplyed by 12 gives 696 Inches the Length of the Tree in Inches And 696 Inches multiplyed by 324 Inches gives 225504 the square Inches which summe divided by 1728 the square Inches in a solid foot gives 130 foot and a half I thought by the point of the Compasses it had been a little above ½ a foot but it is just half a foot Thus having shewed you both by Lines and Numbers what there was of this Tree the customary way I shall here shew how many foot of Timber there is in it the true way still supposing it to be a Cylinder that is a round Figure of equal Circumference in all parts there be several wayes to measure it as by having the Circumference or by having
pole as in the first Example then always such a Figure ends in ¾ of a pole as that doth But if a Figure be two pole and ¾ one way and two pole and ¼ the other as the last was it ends always in such a Decimal as this 1875 that is half a quarter and half half a quarter that is ⅛ and 1 16 parts of a pole square This way may you cast up the Content of a Ground very speedily and Exact if the middle Length and middle Breadth fall out in ¼ ½ or ¾ of a Pole and this way you may summe up a Field before you do it decimally And then one will be good proof to the other which with little Practice will make you so perfect that in small Fields you will readily tell the Content without Pen or Rule only by Memory These Rules may also be done by two turns of your Compasses on the Line of Numbers and there is no way so ready if once you come but to understand that most usefull Line well For as the distance of one of the Numbers to be multiplyed is from one at the End of your Line the same distance is the product from the other Number Example of the Second Figure As One is to Two and a half the same Extent of your Compasses will reach from 2 and a half to 6 ¼ the Product A Table of Board-Measure by having the breadth of the Board in Inches against which is shewed the Quantity of one foot thereof in Length The use of this Table Bredth of the board in Inches The quantity of one foot in Length  f.pts. 1 0.083 2 0.167 3 0.250 4 0.333 5 0.417 6 0.500 7 0.583 8 0.667 9 0.750 10 0.833 11 0.917 12 1.000 13 1.083 14 1.167 15 1.250 16 1.333 17 1.417 18 1.500 19 1.583 20 1.667 21 1.750 22 1.833 23 1.917 24 2.000 25 2.083 26 2.167 27 2.250 28 2.333 29 2.417 30 2.500 31 2.583 32 2.667 33 2.750 34 2.833 35 2.917 36 3.000 Having taken the Breadth of the Board in Inches see what Number answereth it in this Table and what Number you find against the Breadth in Inches multiply by the Length of the Board or Glass and cut off the three last Figures to the Right hand thereby you shall have the Number in feet and the parts cut off are parts of a foot Example A Board ten Inches broad and ten foot long against 10 you see is 0.833 which multiplyed by 10 gives 8330 then taking off 3 Figures there remains 8 that is 8 foot and 33 100 But if you would measure this Board by the Line of Numbers then set one point of your Compasses on 12 extend the other to the breadth in Inches the same Extent will reach from the length in feet to the Content For as 12 the side of a superficial foot square is to the breadth in inches which here is 10 so is the length in feet which in this Example is 10 to the Content in feet and parts which is 8 foot 33 100 Note this for a general Rule that if the Breadth be less than 12 Inches then must you turn the Compasses to the left hand on your Rule and if more than 12 then turn your Compasses from the Length in feet to the Right hand Learn but to read your Line well and this Rule then may you measure any Board or Pain of Glass as easily as to tell ten c. CHAP. XLII Of measuring Timber and other solid Bodies with several Tables usefull thereunto c. IN Board Glass Land c. we onely took notice of the Length and Breadth which was sufficient to find the superficial Content but to measure solid Bodies we must take notice of the Length Breadth and Depth Most of solid Figures are measured by finding first the superficial Content of the Base or one End and multiplying that by the Length if both Ends alike but if tapering then by ⅓ of the Length and as superficial Measure hath 144 square Inches in one foot and 72 square Inches in half a foot and 36 square Inches in a Quarter So In solid Measure 1728 square Inches make one foot And 8.64 square Inches make half a foot And 432 square Inches make a quarter of a foot For every Inch square is like a Die and so is a foot of solid Measure supposed to be for what it wants either in Breadth or in Thickness it must have in Length so that in what form soever your solid Body is that you measure there must be 1728 solid Inches to make a foot for 12 the side of a foot multiplyed by 12 gives 144 for one side and 144 multiplyed by 12 another side gives 1728 the Cube-square Inches in a Cube-square foot Now to find the solid Content of any piece of Timber or Stone that hath the sides equal first find the superficial Content of the End in Inches and parts and multiply that by the Length in Inches the Product is the Content in solid Inches Then divide that summe by 1728 the Inches in a foot the Quotient sheweth you the Content in solid feet and what remain are Inches If you would work this by the Line of Numbers the Rule is thus Extend the Compasses from one to the Breadth in Inches The same Extent will reach from the Depth to the Content of the End Then extend the Compasses from one to this Content of the End Keep your Compasses fixed and that Extent will reach from the Length to the Content in solid Inches But if your solid Figure hath both Ends alike and in form of a Regular Polgone that is a piece of Timber hewed into 5 6 7 or 8 equal sides c. which is called by some A prisme then take the Semi-circumference and multiply that by the Radius or Semi-diameter that product by the Length giveth the Content But if your solid Figure be a Cylinder that is a round piece of Timber or Stone having both Ends equal Diameter as a Roller c. here take the Semi-circumference multiply it by the Semi-diameter and the Area of that by the Length giveth the solid Content Now many of the Bodies of our Timber-trees will be near this form of a Cylinder but Custom hath got such footing though very false that men will not measure their Timber the true way but will still keep their Error which is to gird the middle of the Tree about with a Line and take the fourth part thereof for the true square and so measure it as a four-square piece of Timber but how false that is may appear by the ensuing Tables Whoever is pleased to trye will find that there may be four Slabs taken off to bring that to a Square and that squared piece then will be near equal to the Measure they first measured the piece of Timber by so that when they have brought their piece square by hewing or sawing they then have the Measure that it was measured for when it
was Round But several men have demonstrated this false Rule to be false near ⅓ as Mr. Wing Mr. Philips and others Yet Custom doth and will keep its Road. I have already shewed how to measure Timber by the Customary way by the Line of Numbers in Chap. 35 and 36. before-going and for further satisfaction I referre you to these Tables following A Table shewing the solid Content of one foot Length of any piece of Timber according to the superficial Content taken at the End thereof The Inches at the End f. pts 1 0.007 2 0.014 3 0.021 4 0.028 5 0.035 6 0.042 7 0.049 8 0.056 9 0.062 10 0.069 20 0.139 30 0.208 40 0.278 50 0.347 60 0.417 70 0.486 80 0.556 90 0.625 100 0.694 200 1.389 300 2.083 400 2.778 500 3.472 600 4.167 700 4.861 800 5.556 900 6.250 1000 6.944 2000 13.888 3000 20.833 4000 27.778 5000 34.722 6000 41.666 7000 48.711 8000 55.555 9000 62.500 10000 69.444 20000 138.888 Finding the superficial Content at the End of your Timber-stick or Stone c. let it be Round or Square so it hath but the same Compass from one end to the other against that Number is the feet and parts of one foot Length and by multiplying that by the Length of your Stick sheweth the Content in square feet Example The superficial Content at the End being 200 Inches and 5 foot long against 200 is 1 foot 389 parts which multiplyed by 5 the Length yieldeth 6 foot and 945 parts that is near 7 foot of Timber But if the Number that is at the End be not in the Table then adde two Numbers together and then take the Number which answereth them and adde them together and multiply the Length by that summe as before c. A Table shewing the true Quantity of one foot length in any true squared piece of Timber for Inches and half Inches from half an Inch square to 36 Inches square I. fo pts  0.002 1 0.007  0.016 2 0.028  0.043 3 0.062  0.085 4 0.111  0.140 5 0.174  0.210 6 0.250  0.293 7 0.340  0.390 8 0.444  0.502 9 0.562  0.627 10 0.694  0.765 11 0.840  0.919 12 1.000  1.085 13 1.174  1.266 14 1.361  1.460 15 1.562  1.668 16 1.778  1.891 17 2.007  2.127 18 2.250  2.377 19 2.507  2.641 20 2 778  2.918 21 3.062  3.210 22 3.361  3.516 23 3.673  3.835 24 4.000  4.166 25 4.340  4.513 26 4.694  4.877 27 5.063  5.250 28 5.445  5.670 29 5.840  6.043 30 6.250  6.460 31 6.673  6.890 32 7.111  7.333 33 7.562  7.780 34 8.028  8.263 35 8.507  8.750 36 9.000 If you would enlarge this Table further the Rule is this As the square of 12 Inches which is 144 is to 1000 So is the square of another Number to another Example As in 36 the Square of it is 1296 then as 144 is to 1000 So is 1296 to 9 foot c. as is in the Table The Vse of the Table The Square of a piece of Timber being found in Inches and the Length thereof in Feet to know the Content take the Number answering to the Square of Inches out of the Table and multiply it by the Length in feet Example A piece of Timber 18 Inches square and 25 foot long the Number answering to 18 Inches square is Which multiplyed by 25 the Length Which is 56 foot and one quarter A piece 18 Inches square at the End and one foot long is 2 foot and 1 40. A Table shewing by the Compass of Round Timber what is contained in a Foot length thereof Co. fo pa. 10 0.055 11 0.066 12 0.079 13 0.093 14 0.108 15 0.124 16 0.141 17 0.159 18 0.179 19 0.200 20 0.221 21 0.243 22 0.267 23 0.292 24 0.318 25 0.343 26 0.374 27 0.403 28 0.433 29 0.465 30 0.497 31 0.531 32 0.566 33 0.602 34 0.639 35 0.677 36 0.716 37 0.756 38 0.798 39 0.840 40 0.884 41 0.929 42 9.974 43 1.021 44 1.070 45 1.119 46 1.169 47 1.220 48 1.273 49 1.327 50 1.381 51 1.437 52 1.496 53 1.552 54 1.612 55 1.671 56 1.732 57 1.795 58 1.860 59 1.923 60 1.988 61 2.056 62 2.124 63 2.193 64 2.264 65 2.335 66 2.406 67 2.480 68 2.555 69 2.631 70 2.707 71 2.785 72 2.864 73 2.945 74 3.026 75 3.108 76 3.191 77 3.276 78 3.362 79 3.449 80 3.537 81 3.625 82 3.715 83 3.807 84 3.866 85 3.990 86 4.084 87 4.183 88 4.279 89 4.377 90 4.475 91 4.576 92 4.677 93 4.780 94 4.882 95 4.987 96 5.093 97 5.200 98 5.307 99 5.416 The Vse of this Table is as followeth Look for the Compass of the Tree in Inches and in the Column annexed you have the Quantity of Timber in one Foot length which multiply by the Number of feet that the Tree is in Length and the Product is the Content thereof Example The Circumference or Compass of a Tree 47 Inches and 12 foot long the Number against 47 Inches is 1.220 So there is so much in one foot Length Which multiplyed by 12 gives the Content That is 14 foot and above half a foot This Table shews how many Inches in Length make one Foot of Timber according to the Compass of the piece of Timber from 10 Inches Compass to 100 Inches Compass Co. In. pts 10 217.15 11 179.46 12 150.80 13 128.49 14 110.79 15 94.312 16 84.822 17 75.137 18 67.020 19 60.151 20 54.286 21 49.228 22 44.865 23 40.904 24 37.690 25 34.743 26 32.122 27 29.787 28 27.697 29 25.820 30 24.127 31 22.596 32 21.206 33 19.936 34 18.784 35 17.736 36 16.755 37 15.862 38 15.038 39 14.276 40 13.572 41 12.916 42 12.310 43 11.744 44 11.211 45 10.723 46 10.262 47 9.830 48 9.425 49 9.044 50 8.686 51 8.349 52 8.030 53 7.730 54 7.447 55 7.178 56 6.924 57 6.684 58 6.455 59 6.238 60 6.030 61 5.836 62 5.649 63 5.471 64 5.301 65 5.140 66 4.985 67 4.837 68 4.696 69 4.561 70 4.432 71 4.308 72 4.198 73 4.075 74 3.965 75 3.861 76 3.760 77 3.663 78 3.569 79 3.479 80 3.393 81 3.310 82 3.230 83 3.152 84 3.078 85 3.006 86 2.936 87 2.869 88 2.804 89 2.742 90 2.681 91 2.622 92 2.566 93 2.511 94 2.458 95 2.406 96 2.356 97 2.307 98 2.261 99 2.216 100 2.171 The Vse of this Table Having taken the Circumference of the Tree in Inches look that Compass in the Table and against it you may see how many Inches or parts of an Inch make one Foot of Timber then with a Ruler or a pair of Compasses which are better measure how many times you can find that in the Length of the piece of Timber and so many Foot is in that piece of Timber This is a most usefull Table to measure your Timber-trees by Example The Compass of a Tree being 84 Inches about then
is broken Bricks and Stones and Lime is very good for the Roots of Trees in a stiffe cold Ground the Reason is told you Chalk broken small into pieces is a very good Compost for stiffe cold grounds There is much difference in Chalk but that which is soft fat Chalk is good for such Ground as aforesaid and for ground that is not very stiffe Let your Reason instruct you further Lime is a very rare Compost for cold Grounds and stiffe Clayes for its heat causeth a fume and its tenderness makes way for the Roots to fetch home their Nourishment and its heat is great at first therefore lay not on too much on no ground and let that be slacked If your dry ground be it your Tree delight to grow in and you are forced to set them on wet then adde some of this Lime among your Earth Clay especially that sort which is a light Brick-Earth is very good for such Land that is a light shovey Gravel or hath too much sand in it Such grounds as these they do not retain the spirit of Plants for when Nature hath by the two Lovers Star-Fire and VVater generated their Babe such ground as this doth drink down too fast and again doth drye too hastily so that the water cannot have time to leave nor to prepare its slime which is the Mercury that makes that fume which feeds all Plants and their seeds But this Clay must not be digged too deep for then it wanteth of that which feedeth Plants c. I have taken the green Slime that is common in standing waters I do not mean the Frogs Spawn which is cast many times into this and have dryed it and beat it into fine dust and then have mixed it with good fresh Earth and have found very good success in raising several sorts of Flower-seeds and others Though I have Notes of them yet it is out of my Road to speak of them now being I am Writing of the stately Forrest-trees However I may its possible write somewhat of them if the Lord permits and according as I find these few Lines Accepted of by some of the Royal Oaks of this our Age. For I do suppose that there is not one thing in Gardening yet well known For as a Learned Author hath it he that knows a thing well must know what it was is and shall be Therefore all humane Knowledge is but a shadow of superficial Learning reflecting upon mans Imagination but not the least thing comprehended substantially But to the business in hand take Clay or Loom and lay it on your Ground not too thick the beginning of Winter and there let it be till the Frost hath made it fall into Mould then in some dry open time harrow it all over and if it be Ground you plow then plow it in a drye time but if it be Ground you trench for Forrest or Fruit-trees observe to order it so for by thus doing the Clay will mix with the Sand or Gravel much the better The better that any man cheweth his Meat it is certainly the easier to digest and the dryer you put it into your ground provided it hath but time to water it self well before your trees be set 't is the better for then it draws the Mercury and stores it up till the Roots have occasion for it for 't is quickly exhaled out of sand but the Clay holds his store till a time of Necessity and then contributes to the Roots that is in drye weather and the smaller you make it to mix with your ground the likelier the small Roots as well as the great are to meet with it Note further that the smaller your Plants be the finer must your Earth be made by skreening fifting beating turning c. I know by good success this to be true for the Right Honourable my Lord and the more to be honoured because a great Planter and as great a Lover thereof gave me order to make three Walks of Line-trees from the New Garden to the New Bowling-green and withall to make them descend towards the House as neer as we could which to doe I was forced to cut through one Hill thirty Rod most of the Hill two foot-deep into a sharp Gravel and the greatest part of all the length of the Walks was the same they being Trees that I raised of Seeds most of them and the rest of Layers at Hadham-Hail they being with my Lord ever since their Minority and he many times their Barber engaged him to have the more particular Kindness for them therefore he ordered me to doe what I thought good in preparing the ground for them which I did as followeth First I levelled the Hill and when I had brought the Ground neer to the Level concluded on I staked out my ground where every Tree should stand and then ordered my holes to be made for my Trees each hole three foot-deep and four foot-wide being the ground was so bad This I did neer a Year before I set my Trees and having the convenience of Brick-Earth near I got near a Load to every hole and mixed this with the Earth digged out of the Holes turning it over twice and in dry weather throwing out the greatest Stones but the Turf I did throw into each Hole the grass-side downward as soon as they were made but the Hill of Gravel I trenched that with Loom Cow-dung and the Litter under the Cow-racks two Spade deep and five foot on each side every row of Trees Thus having prepared my ground and the season of the year come about the beginning of November 1672. I had the Trees taken up with good help as carefully as I could and carried to Cashiobury the place of their now Abode and then having good store of help and good Mould prepared of the smallest and finest I set the Trees with the upper part of the Roots of each Tree level with the top of the Ground making a round hill half a foot high about every tree and the Compass of the Hole Having prun'd the heads of each Tree and cut off the bruised Roots and the Ends of such roots as were broken I sorted the Trees and observed this Method in placing them namely I set the highest next the Bowling-green and so shorter and shorter till the lowest were next to the Garden which I did for these Reasons Next the Green was the worst Ground and the Trees more in danger of being spoyled by reason of a Market-path that goeth cross that end of the VValks to Watford Thus having set my Trees streight in their Rows and trod the Earth close to their Roots and made my Hills I then laid round every Tree upon those Hills wet Litter taken off from the Dung-hill a good Barrow-full to every Tree and covered that with a little Mould leaving them to take their rest for a time but early in the Spring I found them to begin their Progress and that Summer they had such Heads
well and Seeds and small Plants often use not VVell-water especially for tender Plants for it is so strained thorow the Earth that it hath little spirit to mak Nourishment in it for Plants Rivers that run quick and long on sharp gravel are little better therefore if you must use such let them stand some time in the Sun in Tubs c. mixed with Dung Let the Quantity and Quality of your Dung be according to the Nature of your Plants as if your Plants be great growers and require heat then put Horse-dung c. in the water If your Plants be fine and tender then put Sheeps Dung or Cows-dung c. into the water remembring that if you think your ground be bad you must adde the more Dung If your VVater be bad as is aforesaid and that you put Dung into it to help it let it then stand in the Sun and open Aire uncovered Take care you water no Plants with standing stinking Ditch water nor no water that stinketh for sweet water not too clear and fresh Mould not musty or tainted by stinking weeds c. is as proper for tender Plants as sweet and good Food and warm and clean Lodging is to a tender fine-bred man Rain-water I take to be very good if not too long kept yet if your Vessel be large the oftner you stirre it the longer it will keep sweet Large and Navigable Rivers such as our Thames that receive much Soyl by the washing of Streets and the many Sinks that run into it and which by its own motion doth cleanse it self from that which is noxious both to Man and Plants is a most excellent Water for all sorts of Plants The larger that Ponds be the better their water is for Plants and if they have the shoot of some Stable-yard into them it addes much to their goodness the opener they be to the Sun the better and the more of motion they have as by Horses washing in them or Geese or Ducks swimming in them 't is so much the better for the swimming of Ducks in Summer in your small Ponds will keep the Water from smelling Now having shewed you several wayes of raising Forrest-trees with some other hints of their Seed c. and of Compost for them and of VVater and VVatering them I now shall shew you the manner how to raise them of Seed which is to be preferred before all others though some of the aforesaid wayes for some Trees are much easier and quicker Good Aire for Plants as well as Men is much assisting to their Health and Life for without this nothing can live and that which is most healthfull for tender Men is also the best for tender Plants Aire takes up the earthy Exhalations of all sorts and there mingles them together and being touched with Coelestial Fire it reduceth them into general Principles for great uses I shall say no more of Aire for it is an Hermaphrodite and is inclosed in Water therefore near a-kin to it CHAP. X. Of the Oaks Raising and Improving I Shall not trouble you with the several kinds there be though the Learned J. Evelyn Esq Reduceth them to four in his Discourse of Forest-Trees but if they were distinguished by several Names as we do our Pears you might find as many varieties onely according to the shape and taste of the Acorn for as we know by Experience that several of our Pear-Trees grow Pyramid-like as the Oakman-berry and Bordon-Musk-Pears c. And some likewise grow much spreading as the Winter-Bonchristian the back Pear of Worcester c. Even so do some of your Oaks therefore if you desire aspiring Trees take care to gather your Acorns off from such Trees or rather gather them from under some such Trees when fallen and in a dry time if you can When you have so done lay your Acorns thin in some open Room to dry and when they be dry keep them in some dry place till the latter end of January and having prepared some good fresh Loomy Ground by digging and keeping it clean before-hand sow them and let them be covered about an Inch and a half or two Inches deep by sowing them at this time you shall save a great many which otherwise would have been spoyled by Mice or other Vermin but if it happen to be a wet time when they fall then will they begin to spear out in a short time after And then so soon as you see them shoot forth a little bud at the small ends commit them to their Spouse as soon as may be for when they be come to the time that the Almighty hath alotted them and be sed and made lusty by the dews and showers of the Heavens then the Star-fire impregnats the Moysture in the seed and then the seed throws off or endeavours to do it and then takes his Lodging in the Earth where he prepares a room for his Off-spring that is as soon as the seed hath imbibed himself in the Water and received heat for without both these no seeds can produce its kinds the Body of the Acorn cracks and the spear shoots into the Earth and as soon as it hath got Entertainment there and the Season of the year agreeable the Body of the seed either turns into leaves or spends it self into leaves and that little small part of the seed the spear that shoots forth Root and then shot and leaves so that if the Acorn hath had a convenient quantity of heat and moisture but if too much of either of these that is deadly to all seeds then the seed spears forth and if it be not committed to the Ground before it be dryed and the spear withered then for certain that Seed Acorn Nut or Stone will never grow For Nature if once set on Motion will rather cease to be than alter its course for Nature hates violence neither can the seed receive this precious sperm without these two Father and Mother and these two must have a sutable Agreement between them for though one Vessel be sufficient to perfect the Infant in the Womb yet Nature hath not been wanting to provide several Breasts to Nourish it Therefore if your Acorns have taken wet and the heat hath made them spear you must sow them as soon as you can and venture them a whole Winter in the Ground remembring to keep some Traps set to catch the Mice In the Spring following they will come up keep them clean from Weeds and let them stand two or three years on their first bed then having prepared a piece of good fresh Ground by adding some rotten dung to it if poor or good fresh Rich Ground which is better than dung cut the tap-root and the side-boughs and set them as you do other Trees in your Nurseries keep your Ground with digging and the Trees with pruning up every year thus Order them till you find them fit to Remove and you will then find no such hazard in the Removing them as if
come twelve Months before they appear if your ground be not very subject to great weeds you may sow them with Oats if you be minded to make a Wood of it and in your VVoods on the top of your Ground but if they be prepared before-hand they will be much more certain of growing therefore if you would be sure to raise good store of them for to make VValks or furnish your VVoods with c. having gathered your Keyes and ordered them as is aforesaid prepare some sifted Earth or Sand which is better by keeping an equal warmth and moysture to prepare them for spearing Having prepared your sand and a house to lay them in where the Air may freely come then in this House lay one Laying of Sand and a Laying of Keyes parting your Keyes well so doe till you have Laying after Laying covered all your Keyes in the Couch any time in VVinter as is before directed Let your Sand be pretty moyst and so keep it all that year and having prepared your Ground by often digging and a tender Soyl which the Ash loves then about the latter end of January sowe them on this Bed covering them about one Inch or an Inch and a half thick Do not let them lie too long uncovered when you take them out of their Couch for then they will be speared and if they lie too long in the Aire it will spoyl them Do not sowe them in frosty weather but if Frosts be stay till they be over Mind to keep them clean from weeds the first year for they will shoot but little the first year but the second they will shoot strongly the VVinter after you may transplant them upon Beds pruning the little side-shoots and topping the tap-root Keep them with digging and pruning every year on these Beds and in few years they will be fit for Walks Woods c. and one of these thus ordered shall be worth ten taken out of VVoods for they will be taper and fine trees VVhen you remove an Ash take not off his head if he be not too top-heavy that you can possibly help it for an Ash and a VValnut are two of the worst Trees I know to head they having such a great Pith but the side-boughs you may be bold to take off provided you take them off close and the Boughs not very great It is not very apt to break much into side-boughs and heals over the wound as well as any tree except the Beech then why will you have low Timber-trees of Ashes when you may as well have high ones Therefore prune up your young Ash-trees well and often And if you follow but these Rules you may raise them as easily as Barley and as thick As touching the several Kinds some Authors will have two sorts the Male and Female but there is no such thing as Male and Female among Plants though some Plants are so called for what Act of either do any two Plants communicate to each other The greatest difference that ever I observed in young Ashes among the many thousands that I have raised was in their Bark for I have had some that have had blackish Bark some reddish the Leaves alike but what difference there will be in the Keyes and Timber I yet know not The Ash is not fit to be set near fine Gardens for the Leaves turn to soyl suddenly and so spoyl your VValks also the Roots run so shallow that they will rob your Borders and spoyl your Fruit-trees They are as bad by your plow'd Ground for the Roots will so draw the strength of the Ground from the Corn that it will languish and pine away And this I have observed that the Summer after a Tree is lopped it shall rob the Corn more than another bigger standing by it as may be visible by the growth of the Corn I have wilfully experienc'd it and I conceive the Reason to be this the Sap riseth into the head of the Pollard as usually it did and so into the Boughs but finding the Boughs cut off it filleth the Head so full that it causeth it to swell in the Spring and this is the reason Pollard-heads are bigger than any other part of the body of the Tree the head being so full that it can contain the sap no longer it then breaketh out into abundance of young shoots and when they set once a growing they grow apace and so the Bark of them being thin and open for the Sap to run in they receive as much as the Roots can possibly provide for them and endeavour to enlarge the Head to that magnitude as it was at before But though the Ash doth harm to grow near or upon plowed Ground yet it is the usefullest wood that growes for the Plough and other uses belonging to the Plough-man It is a quick-growing wood and will grow pretty well on most sorts of Grounds provided they be not too wet or very shallow It grows best on such Grounds as have their surface of a loose Nature so that it be not too shallow It produceth excellent Timber for several uses and is such a quick-grower that from a Key in Forty years one Ash was sold for Thirty pounds sterling as witnesseth the ingenious Author of the Discourse of Forrest-trees pag. 22. And this I can tell which my Lord and I measured of the shoot of an Ash that stood between the Wood-yard at Hadham-Hall and a place where I used to raise Melon plants that the second years shoot was Eight foot within two Inches which had it shot but a few years at this rate it would soon have been a very great Tree and worth a like price Of all the VVood that I know there is none burns so well green as the Ash and that is one Reason that many a fine Pollard is spoyled For your bad Husbands as they are tearmed are as unkind to Trees as they are to themselves For their want of Wood early in the VVinter makes them flie to the Ash whence they hack off the Boughs and thus leave him all Winter in which time the wood being not very hard that drinks in the wet at these wounded places and before the Spring comes to heal it over decayes and so by that means every Winter receiveth the wet more and more till it hath destroyed Root Body and Branch On the other side there are some which will not lop their Trees till they bear very great Boughs and then lop off them smooth and well cut off though it be in the Spring yet in such great wounds before the Sap can cover the place the wet makes a hole in some or many of these places and so you lose both Body and Lops in a few years Besides the lopping of Trees young that is at ten or twelve years at the most by so doing you keep your Tree much the longer alive and you shall have shoots of Trees at first felling grow more into wood in one year than they do
I have shewed you that it is not the mixing of Earth with other Plants that will make them change into such Plants as you mix the Earth with or make the Plant alter to any purpose for the main alteration of all Plants is from their Seed though it may be mixing such Plants or Shavings with the Earth you sow Seed in may cause them to have some quality of the Physical use of the Plant in them as is the Opinion of the Learned that Misceltoe on the Oak and Polipody of the Oak and Elder on the Willow c. do partake of the Physical uses of those Plants on which they grow for in Nature you may find that many Bodies do not onely by their Qualities Affect their Adjacents but also infuse their Virtue into them and endue them with the same faculty as the Loadstone doth not onely attract Iron but Communicates its Virtue to it and makes it Magnetical by touching c. But I shall leave the Stones and return to the Walnut-tree Let your Nuts be very Ripe and when they begin to fall then beat the rest off from the Tree and lay them by that the outward Husk may Crack then peel them but do not wash them for wet doth make the Kernel Crack and Mould and spoyls it When you have taken off the Husk lay them thin to dry in some dry open Room turn them sometimes with a Broom When they have sweat and are dry about the beginning of October put them into Sand a little moyst making it a little wetter about Christmas for then they will begin to spear and then will digest it Sow them not in their Husks neither steep them as some Advise Set or Sow them about the latter end of January or beginning of February in good fresh Ground minding the aforesaid Rules and you shall not lose one in a hundred and cover them about an Inch and a half or two Inches keep them well Weeded on their first bed and when they have stood two Summers then Remove them into other beds setting them about a yard asunder one Row from another and about a foot and a half one from another in the Rows Cut the Tap-root and all bruised Roots off and the side-boughs but cut not off the Head of a Walnut-tree Keep them with digging and hoing and pruning up till you have got them five or six foot high then bud them it will make them bear sooner and then you are certain of a good Kind for I presume you will not bud them with a bad Kind if you know it If you do not bud them let them Head about six foot high a year or two and then Remove them but keep them not long in the open Air for the Roots being of a spongy Nature will take in the Air so fast that they will soon Mould and Kill your Tree therefore set them as soon as you can when once taken up Remove them young off from the Seed-bed as is before Advised for if you let them stand to be great on the place where they were first sowed they will be much more dangerous to Remove and not so likely to thrive The Ground they Love is a deep Soyl and of a dry Nature on a sharp Gravel if the Ground be shallow they will not prosper but if the Gravel be mixed with Loom they will do well They Love not a stiff Clay but if it be mixed Naturally with stones or Chalk and not too shallow then they will thrive on it It is a proper Tree to set in Woods for it will run up if the side-boughs be taken off to a great height and yield very good Timber for many Uses CHAP. XV. Of Raising and Ordering the Chesnut TOuching the Kinds of this Nut there may be several but I know but three one of them is very good which ought to be the more Increased For the time of Gathering Observe the same as before is said of the Walnut When you have gathered them and taken the Husks off lay them to dry and sweat but not too thick Do not steep them in Water as some Advise you for it is not good to steep any sort of Seed unless some Annuals and to steep them is good especially if lated in sowing but to steep Stones Nuts or Seeds that are not of quick growth watering them may Kill them by making the Kernel swell too hastily and so crack it before the spear causeth it or it may Mould and stupifie the spear therefore let no Seeds whatsoever that are not quick of growth have too much wet at first You must put your Chesnuts then in Sand a little moist about the beginning or middle of November make it a little moister about the beginning of January and at the latter end or beginning of February sow them on beds and cover them about two Inches or you may set them by a Line as you set Beans or you may sow them in drills as Beans or you may sow them where you intend they shall stand and in any of these ways or places keep them clean from Weeds the first or second year then you may Remove them into your Nursery off from the Seed-bed prune off the side-boughs and Roots They are Subject to put forth many side-boughs near the Ground whereby they may be increased by Laying very easily to do which see Chap. 5. But the best way is to Raise them of Nuts Set them in Rows in your Nursery and Order them as is shewed of the Walnut The Soyl they Love is such as the Walnut takes delight to grow in They be Excellent to set in Coppices or Woods the Timber is very Useful and they will grow to be large for under-wood if the Tree be much crooked fell it it will yield great store of strong shoots from the stemme some of which it will be convenient to Lay whereof you may leave some Layed to thicken the place and others to Plant where you please and may have great shoots from the stemme for several Uses also CHAP. XVI Of Raising and Ordering the Sarvice-Tree AS for the Kinds of the Sarvice they may be many there is one whose Fruit is much better than the other but whether it is the Ground makes it so I cannot positively say We have them grow at Hadham on very stiff Ground the Trees bear well and the Fruit is good and at Cashiobury we have them on a sharp Gravel the Fruit naught and the Trees bear very badly It may be Raised of the Seed or Stone that is in the Berries which when they are rotten are then Ripe that is about the latter end of September or beginning of October eat off the Fleshy part or rub it off by Rolling them in Sand then dry them in the open Aire and keep them in moyst Sand till the beginning of January then sow them on moist Ground or in the shade keep them from weeds then let them stand two or three Years and then
Basis by one third of the Altitude the solid Content of the Figure is had which you may value at such a price as Fire-wood beareth with you I will give you one Example and it shall be of an Ash which was felled in a place called the Old Orchard by the Stables at Cashiobury This tree I observed by several of the Rules before and found it to be 80 foot high from the ground to the top-shoot I also observed the height of the Timber to be 56 foot long by the same Rules then setting a Ladder to this Tree about 25 foot high I girthed it with a pack-thred which place I took for the middle girth being the Tree did not taper and it girthed 64 Inches upon the Bark But most men that buy timber by the foot have the Bark taken off at the girthingplace or an Allowance for the Bark but you may readily know the girth of the Tree under the Bark though the Tree be standing or lying without ever taking off the Bark or making Allowance by ghess as some doe which to perform find with your Penknife or Prickers the thickness of the Bark or you may cut a hole thorow the Bark in the girthing-places or two or three holes and then observe the mean thickness As on the foresaid Tree the Bark was half an Inch thick doubled makes one Inch so then the tree is less by one Inch in the Diameter when the Bark is off then by this general Rule as 22 is to 7 so is the Circumference to the Diameter Examp. by the Line of Numbers Extend your Compasses from 22 to 7 the same extent will reach from 64 to 20 and near a half for the Diameter of the Circumference of 64. Examp. by Arithmetick As 22 to 7 so is 64 to 20 8 22 the Diameter But the Bark taking one Inch off from this Diameter it is then 19 Inches and 8 22 then to find the true Circumference under the Bark agreeing to this Diameter say thus As 7 to 22 so is 19 8 22 to 61 the Circumference or near it For if you extend the Compasses from 7 to 22 the same will reach from 19 8 22 to 61 very near Or you may turn this 8 into a Decimal Fraction for as 22 is to 100 so is 8 to 36 of 100 and near a ½ Thus by four turns of your Compasses on the Line of Numbers you may in a moment find the Circumference under the Bark which here we find to be 61 then according to the customary way of measuring though not the true way take one fourth part of the Circumference and say As 12 is to this ¼ part of the Circumference in Inches so is the Length in feet twice repeated to the content in feet or parts Examp. The fourth part of 61 is 15 and ¼ Inches extend your Compasses from the point 12. on your Line of Numbers to 15 ¼ that extent will reach from 56 to 91 foot and neer a half being twice turned to the Right hand which must alwayes be if the ¼ of your Circumference be more than 12 Inches if less then to the Left hand Thus having found the Timber of this Tree to be 91 foot and a half which must be valued according to the worth of Timber in the place where you are here I will value it at 12 d. the foot though it was sold with courser Timber at an under-price this at 12 d. the foot comes to 4 l. 11 s. 6 d. Now to measure the head of this Tree according to our supposed Rule aforesaid if you take 56 the Length of the Timber from 80 the height of the Tree there remains 24 foot for the head This 24 foot which is the head two parts of it I measure as a solid Cylinder and one part as a Cone for if you girt all the boughs a little above where they break out from the Timber and adde the several girths together they will girth more than the Timber where the head was cut off two parts of the 24 foot is 16 which I measure by the same Rule I did the Timber by the Line of Numbers and the same Girt As 12 is to 15½ the square in Inches So is 16 the Length in feet twice repeated to 26 foot ¾ for the ⅔ of the Head Now for the ⅓ of the Head which must be measured as a solid Cone we must find the Basis and multiply the Content thereof by one third of the Altitude The Circumference of the Basis was 61 but I will take it now for 60 Inches then as before As 22 is to 7 so is 60 the Circumference to the Diameter which is 19 and a little more that which is more I neglect as not worth minding in such a business as this Half 60 is 30 half 19 is 9 and ½ Ex. to work it by the Line of Numbers Extend the Compasses from 1 to 9 and ½ the same will reach from 30 to 285 the Content in Inches of the Basis then ⅓ of 8 foot is 32 Inches Then say As 1 to 32 so is 285 to 9120 Inches which divided by 1728 the In. in one foot square is 5 foot and ¼ and a little more this added to 26 foot ¾ make 32 foot for the Head which at a Groat per foot is 10 s. 8 d. But this must be valued according the Countrey you are in So according to these Rules this Tree was worth 5 l. 2 s. 2 d. there was of the Head one Stack and near a quarter and 12 Faggots it cost 3 s. per Stack to cut out and was worth in the place where it stood 10 s. You see how near the Rule agrees with this tree but if the tree stands hanging down hill it will then endanger the Timber in falling or if you fear the Timber to be faulty or some of the Arms blown off you must judge-accordingly c. It is oft found in your great Elms and Ashes that they be hollow within and yet good Timber on the out-sides especially some length of them toward or at the lower end Now I will shew you how you may judge very near the Quantity of Timber that is in one of these trees or a piece of them according to the customary way Examp. A piece of a Tree 12 foot long and hollow and decayed wood at one end 12 Inches Diameter at the other end hollow and decayed 6 Inches Diam The piece was 26 Inches Diameter under the Bark First I measure the piece as if all sound Timber then the hollow and decayed by its Diameter that being deducted from the piece sheweth how much found Timber there is in foot and parts measured the customary way As 7 to 22 so 26 to 81 5 7 the Circumference the ¼ of it is 20 and ¼ and somewhat more as 12 to 20 ¼ in Inches so is 12 the Length in feet twice Repeated to 39 foot and ½ the Content as if it were all sound Then for the hollow
is the Root divide the Distance from 64. to one into 3 equal parts one third part of that distance will reach from one to 4 the Root for the first third part will reach from 64 to 16 the square the 2d third part from 16 to 4 the Root the third part from 4 to one for 4 times 4 is 16 and 4 times 16 is 64 the same Rule observe for any other number Thus may you find the square of any Circle or the end of a tree the square equal to that Circumference and so measure it as is before shew'd Example 12. Having the Circumference of a Tree you would know the side of a Square equal to that Circumference as in the 10th Example the Circumference was 60 Inches now to find the Content in superficial Inches of such a Circle the Rule is as is before shewd as 22 is to 7 so is the Circumference to the Diameter now if you Extend your Compasses from 22 to 7 that Extent will reach from 60 to 19. and 2 22 the Diameter this Fraction may be turned into a Decimal Fraction and so wrought but being so small it is not worth minding in such operations as this then if you take half the Diameter and ½ the Circumference and multiply one by the other or if you Extend your Compasses from one to 9 and ½ that Extent will reach from 30 to 285 the superficial content in Inches then to find the square by the Line of Numbers that is to finde a Number which if Multiply'd in its self makes this Summe the Rule is Extend your Compasses from 285 to one and the middle between these 2 Numbers is 16 882 1000 very near as here you may see but first note that if your Rule have but the Lines on it that most of your ordinary Rules have that is but 2 Lines on it as 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8 9 and 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10 then this Question may be some trouble to work on such a Rule but if your Rule hath 4 parts or 6 parts as a 6 foot Rule may have then this Question may be performed very readily as you may hereafter better perceive for if you take 285 in the second part of the Rule then is the middle figure one a 100 and the figure one at the end is 10 and the Rule is that you must take the middle between 1 and 285 which here you cannot for if you count the first one one the middle one is then 10. and the end one is 100 so then 285 is off from the Line whereas if your Rule had another part added to it then might you work and read it very readily But to work it by this Rule you must take the distance from 100 to 285 that is from the middle one to 285 then take half of this distance and add it to half the length of the Line and the Compasses will reach from 10 in the middle to near 17 the side of a square equal to 285 as you may see it here proved by the pen. Here you may see that 16 882 1000 Multiplyed by 16 882 1000 gives 285 and 001924 1000000 which Fraction being so small is not considerable Many other wayes there be to measure a Cyllinder but this after you have found the side of a square equal to the Circumference Multiplyed by the length is sufficient c. CHAP. LI. Division on the Line THe Rule is as one is to the Divisor so is the Dividend to the Quotient or as the Divisor is to the dividend so is to 1 to the Quotient Example 280 being to be divided by 5 set one foot of the Compasses on 5 and Extend the other to one that Extent will reach from 280 to 56 the Quotient Or thus Extend the Compasses from 5 to 280 that distance will reach from 1 to 56 the Quotient Example 2. 260. divided by 5 2 10 Extend the Compasses from 5 2 10 to 260 that Extent will reach from 1 to 50 the Quotient By these Rules may you work any other Question in Division for Division is easier than Multiplication for in this having the Sums given you look for less and in Multiplication the Sums being given you may seek for greater CHAP. LII The Rule of Three on the Line THis Rule which by most is called the Golden Rule for its Excellent uses is performed with much ease only by 2 turns of your Compasses and in working differs little from Division The Rules are if 4 Numbers are proportional their order may be so transposed that each of those terms may be the last in proportion in this manner 1. As the first is to the second so is the third to the fourth 2. As the third is to the fourth so is the first to the second 3. As the second is to the first so is the fourth to the third 4. As the fourth is to the third so is the second to the first See Mr. Oughtreds Circles of proportion pag. 77. So that four proportional Numbers being desired to be known if any three be given you may find the fourth As if 2 8 6 and 24. be the Numbers given these Numbers may be so varyed as is aforesaid that if any three be given you may find the fourth Note First If 2 costs gives or requires 8 then 6 costs gives c. 24. Secondly If 6 gives 24 then 2 will give 8. Thirdly If 8 require 2 then 24 will require 6. Fourthly As 24 is to 6 so is 8 to 2. Fiftly Or thus it may be as 2 to 6 so is 8 to 24. Here are five wayes that will teach you if you have three Numbers given to find out the fourth proportionable to them but the first and last are most useful and are many times good proofs one of the other Example If 2 of any thing cost 8 sh then 6 will cost 24. s. for if you Extend your Compasses from 2 to 8 that same distance will reach from 6 to 24 the Question or if you Extend your Compasses from the first Number to the third Number that same Extent will reach from the second number to the fourth which was the thing sought Extend your Compasses from 2 to 6 that same Extent will reach from 8 to 24 the Question as before c. Example 2. If you sell your timber by the Load that is 50 foot to the Load ' at any price to know what it is a foot as if you sell for 25 shillings the Load what is that a foot First know how many pence is in 25 shillings because your foot will cost pence and not a shilling 25 shillings is 300 pence then the Rule orders it self thus as 50 to 300 so is one to 6 therefore Extend your Compasses from 50 to 300 that distance will reach from 1 to 6 so then one foot costs 6 pence the Question If you would know the price of 2 Foot then set one poynt of your Compasses on
Alder Water-Poplers any sort of Apple that hath a black burry Knot breaking out of the Boughs that Knot if set a Foot deep in good Ground and the top a Foot out is apt to grow Some sorts of Wildings Codlings Gennitings some Sweetings the smiling Willow Quinces Tamarisk Lawrel Firr Box c. The time that I have spoke on for Laying your Layers is also the very best time for Setting of Cuttings which you may see in the fore-going Chapter to be in August for those sorts of Trees that hold their Leaves and October for those Trees that cast their Leaves in Winter Those sorts of Trees that do grow of Cuttings are common therefore you may take your choice the better for the bigness of your Cuttings which I Advise you to let be from half an Inch to one Inch Diameter If they be less than half an Inch Diameter then they will be weak with a great Pith which Pith will take wet and be likely to Kill your Cutting And besides when your Cuttings be so small they be not prepared with those pores as at present I name them that is little black specks on the Bark where the Root breaks out I suppose if Set in the Ground or else Almighty God for a Sign to shew Man that those that have that Mark upon them will grow as your Elder Alder Sallow Water-Poplers c. hath and also if they be Young they then have not that burry Knot which is very apt to take Root as your Codlings and some sorts of Apples have in hard Wood the Younger the better But if they be greater than one Inch Diameter then the top of your Cutting will be long in covering over therefore may somewhat decay your Cutting by the wet lying on the Head so much But you may Set your Willow and Water-Popler of a greater size because they be Set for Pollard where Cattle come therefore they must be great and high to be out of their harming the sooner but the other size is most proper for your Hedges and VVoods If you set them by a Crow of Iron or by an Instrument which they have about Cambridge that bores a hole in the Earth somewhat like to an Auger Let the Foot be free from cracks cut smooth at bottom and the top of your Cutting the like but let your top be slanted off take care you do not rub up the Bark when you set your Cuttings therefore make your holes large when you set them and ram or tread the Earth close to them keeping them moist the first Summer and let the slant cut off the Head hang downward and if your Cutting be choise put a little soft VVax on the Head and Foot to keep out Air and VVet VVhen you set any Tree or Trees in your VVoods or Hedges be mindful to put in one or two Cuttings with them it will not be much time lost to do it but well spent as I have often proved CHAP VII Of such sorts of Trees as may be Raised by the Roots of another Tree and how to Raise them AS for such sorts of Trees which may be Raised onely from part of a Root of another Tree there be many but of those that I have made Experience I shall in this place give an Account First Let the Tree be a thriving Tree but not too Young nor an Old Tree For if it be too Young then the Roots will be too small for this purpose if too Old 't is possible the Roots may be a decaying and then not fit for this purpose Let the Roots be from a quarter of an Inch to an Inch and a half Diameter and from some Young thriving Tree is the best for in them the Sap is plentiful and therefore will put forth the greater shoot then in the latter end of February or the beginning of March digg round the Trees you intend to increase from till you find such Roots as before are mentioned and taking your Knife cut them three or four Inches from the great Root smooth at the place you cut off then Raise up that end putting in the Earth to keep it up that when your Ground is levelled again the end of this Root so cut off may be two or three Inches above Ground I do Judge the fore-said time of the Year to be the best for then the Sun hastning to the Vernal Equinoctial or rather this Star of the Earth to Libra the Sun having heat and a stronger drawing faculty on the Head of the Tree draweth by its secret influence on the several Branches on the Head and the Head from the Body and both Head and Body from the Roots and the Roots being furnished with Sap from the Earth to supply the Body and the Head is then the fitter to produce with that Sap a new Tree likelier than when 't is in its full Sap viz. in Summer for then the abundance of Sap will rather choak a Bud than produce one out of the Root if the Root be of such sort as will produce Trees from part of the Roots and then the Weather is so hot that it suffocates a new Bud that will be so full of Sap as that will be if any and as to the opening of the Roots at that Season how unnatural 't is to the roots of the Mother-Tree you may easily Judge And then to do this in Winter though there is a continual Motion and Ascending of the Sap from the Roots unless Accidentally hindred by Frosts all the Year long for Nature is no Sluggard yet to cut the Roots then and to expose them thus cut as afore-said to the extremity of the Weather which then usually is great the Frost and VVet pierce that new wound so much that 't is more likelier to Ruine than to Increase its Kind but if it doth Live the Spring is the time when it will Bud therefore by Consequence the best My Reason for cutting the Root two or three Inches off from the great Root is then that two or three Inches of the Root will put forth many Roots at the end especially if smooth cut off and so the better for the Tree from whence you take the Roots Thus much for the manner of Raising by part of Roots the Kinds which may be thus Raised are these that follow viz. Elm Maple Poplar Aspen Abete Cherry Crab-tree Plumb VVhite bush Serves c. CHAP. VIII What Soyl or Dung is best for Trees or their Seeds c. ANY sort of Dung that is very hot of it self as Pigeons Hens-dung Sea-Coal or VVood-Ashes Soot or Malt-dust such or as heats after 't is laid in the Ground as Horse-dung and Horse-Litter or Green Grass or VVeeds these or the like unless a small Quantity and in very cold Ground are better saved than used for Trees especially Forest-trees some Reasons may be given for this First their Fore-Fathers have not met with such Kindness therefore their Children do not nor cannot digest it so well Secondly these sorts
it was sent me by a fair Lady saith he To every Gallon of Birch-water put a quart of Honey well stilled together then boyl it almost an hour with a few Cloves and a little Limon-peel keeping it well scumm'd when it is sufficiently boyled and become cold adde to it three or four Spoonfulls of good Ale to make it work which it will do like New Ale and when the Yeast begins to settle bottle it up as you do other winey Liquors it will in a competent time become a most brisk and spirituous Drink which is a very powerfull Opener This Wine may if you please be made as successefully with Sugar instead of Honey lib. 1. to each Gallon of water or you may dulcifie it with Raisons and compose a Raison-wine of it I know not whether the Quantity of the sweet Ingredients might not be somwhat Reduced and the Operation improved but I give it as Received For Distempers in Man it is good for Cure of the Ptysick most powerfull for dissolving the Stone in the Bladder curing as I am told Consumptions and such interiour Diseases as accompany the Stone in the Bladder and Reins This Liquor is so strong that the common sort of Stone-Bottles cannot preserve the Spirits so subtile they are and volatile and yet it is gentle and very harmless in Operation within the Body and exceedingly sharpens the Appetite being drunk ante Pastum This from the Learned Author and thus much of the Birch And now I proceed CHAP. XXIV Of Raising the Hasel OF the Kinds there be many and some very good Fruit as the Red and VVhite Filberds the great French Nut c. also your wild Nuts do differ much in shape and goodness My Lord had once a Quantity of very good sorts sent him from beyond Sea they had a very tender Shell therefore I took care to raise some of them and did severall but when they came to bear they were no better than our Hedge-nuts VVhen they be Ripe I need not tell you for every Boy can order them all winter as you are advised to keep your VValnuts and sowe them at the same time in the Spring they will grow almost on any Ground provided not too wet but best on your dry ground therefore set them on your high and dry Banks between your Fences but Early in Winter if they hold but the first year they will produce good Stubs you may increase them by Suckers or Laying but the best way is from their Nuts I would have you to benefit your self by Laying this and other Woods in your Woods that be thin of wood I dare assure you that for every Shilling you lay out in this Husbandry in a few Years time every Shilling shall be paid you yearly for many years after CHAP. XXV Of Raising the several sorts of Poplers THere may be many sorts of this VVood but I know but Four the best is that large white Popler a great leaf white on the lower side it shoots with a strong whitish shoot which the Dutch call Abele The Second is a sort much like to this both in Leaf and Shoot which grows in many places of this Land and is in most places called the white Popler The Third is a sort that hath the leaves and shoots more small and not so white it groweth in many places and in most of them is called the Aspen or Asp-tree These three sorts are to be ordered all as one the other differs much both in the Nature of growing and ordering therefore a word or two of these I never yet did Raise any of them of Seed but I do believe they have a Seed in that downy substance they shed in the Spring they increase naturally very much from the Roots but they may be help'd much by the Rules in the Chapter before which sheweth you how to raise Trees from the Roots of another Tree by which Rules from two of the Abele Trees my Lord had from Holland I have raised above a hundred But if you fence in a place round the Tree to keep Cattel off and keep down the great weeds a little they will put forth many young Trees from the Roots of an old one especially if you prune up or thin the Heads of any of these sorts they will then yield the more but if you do not value your Mother-tree but desire to get a great stock of young ones then you may fell the Mother-tree at the ground and if it be not very young or old the Roots will put forth in young Trees the Quantity of the Body and Head of that Tree and so will the Elm Cherry c. then how usefull such Trees are to set in the places of VVoods that be thin I leave you to judge Though this Tree is none of the best of VVoods besides the aforesaid Properties I can satisfie you it will grow and increase on the very worst of your grounds as well drye as wet You must forbear to head any of these three sorts unless young or that you leave some young shoots to draw up the sap except you are minded to destroy the old one you head for if the Lops be very great it many times kills or makes the Tree hollow therefore lop young Some will tell you they grow of Chips but that is false they rarely will grow of Cuttings They are best in VVoods though some advise you to plant them in VValks but they be not good for walks for the Suckers they produce from the Roots will be troublesome The greater sorts are proper to set on the East VVest or North Prospect at a distance in or by the side of a wood for their white Leaves shew finely when the Sun shines upon them and make fine variety with other Trees that have dark green leaves I commend them to you for to plant in woods of barren ground for there they increase much and yield much wood And so I leave them and come to the other which differeth from these both in Leaf and Shoot and manner of growing This last kind is in most places called the water-Popler its Leaf is a pale Green shaped something like the other but it is not white below the shoot is of a yellowish green this loves to grow by Rivers sides or in Ground that is wet or such as holds water much Therefore you that have such Grounds get some of this Tree to set in them It will grow of Truncheons from two foot long to eight the first being the best to set for Stubs the other you may make Pollards of for it is a good profitable wood bringing a good Lop in few years and that on some Grounds better than the Willow For your instruction in setting the small setts see Chap. 6. and for setting those of six seven eight or nine foot long for to make Pollard-trees keep the lower end of your set and also the upper free from cracks and cut each sloaping off as for the bigness let
a great Bearer and a Tree that doth not last very long my Ground being also a shallow Ground I think of 22 foot asunder to plant these Trees at or as neer that as the Ground will permit Then Secondly I go round my Ground and observing my Fence well and finding no great Trees in it I then resolve to set my Trees at six foot from my Fence but note if there be great Trees in your Hedge that fences your Ground then this is too nigh then I set off six foot at one Corner of my Orchard and six foot at the other Corner of the same side which is the East side then I set off six foot at one Corner of the West side it matters not which only that End which is the Levellest is the best for Measuring Having set these three stakes I strain a Line from one stake to the other on the East side then I lay a square to this Line removing it along the Line till I find the other End of the Square point exactly against the Stake on the west side then laying a Line right square to that Line till you come at the Stake on the VVest side I then measure by this Line as many 22 foots as I can noting how many times 22 foot I find and what you find is over or more than 11 foot then make your distance the less to make that up the equal distance for one Tree more but if it be less than half the distance your Trees are to stand asunder then adde that which is under the 11 foot to the number of Trees that be to stand asunder Observe but this and then you need not fear that your Trees will stand too far off on one side and too near on the other it being the same Charge to plant in good Order as at Random as too many doe nay many times less Charge and how much more pleasing Order is I leave them to judge to whom the great God of Order hath given a great delight to imitate him in his glorious works But as for this my piece of Ground which I pitch on only for Example viz. One Acre and a Square I must find the square Root of 160 Rod or as near it as my Chain will give and then substract but the 12 foot out for the distance of the Trees from the Fence and divide the Remainder by 22 the Quotient tells you how many Trees will stand in a Row the over-measure substracted from or added to as your Reason teacheth you Note this that it is most commonly the best way for your Rows to goe the longest way of your Ground for though your Trees stand 22 foot asunder yet your Rowes in their straight Lines will not stand so far Now to find the square Root there are very many Rules but none that are to my Apprehension so exact and easie as by Logarithmes find but the Logarithme of your Number then take half that Log. the Number answering is the square Root Exam. The Log. of 160 is 2. 204 11998. The half of this Log. is 1. 10205999. The nearest Number answering this Logarithme is 12 Rod 65 100 that is 12 Rod 65 Links of a one Pole-Chain divided into 100 parts The Proof may appear by these three Examples following By this it doth plainly appear that 12.65 is the nearest Number that can be found by your Decimal Chain it is but 225 10000 more and by Logarithmes but 2 of a Link put into 100 parts therefore exact as need be for this purpose unless it were for Calculation in Astronomy or the like And you see that 12.64 multiplyed in it self amounts to 159 Rod and 7696 10000 so that I take 12 Rod and 65 of 100 to be Length or Breadth it being a Square they both be as one Now being the Question is propounded in Feet we must turn this 12 Rod and 65 100 into feet also but note you may work the same by the Links of your Chain better than by foot Measure but some 't is possible have not a Chain therefore observe both wayes and first by Foot measure 12 Rod multiplyed by 16 Foot and a half shew the Feet in 12 Rod. Then for the 65 Links of one Rod put into 100 parts or if it be your four Pole-Chain as is most usual now put into 100 Links then are these 65 Links but 16 Links and a 1 49 by that Chain then by the Rule of Three say if 25 the Links in one Rod be equal to 16 foot and a half the feet in one Rod how many feet are equal to 16 Links and a Quarter The Question ranks it self thus in Decimal Fractions As 25 is to 16. 50 so is 16. 25 to 10 foot 725 1000 of a foot Do you desire to know what this Fraction 725 1000 is in Inches or Barley-Corns which be the lowest vulgar terms in surveying to satisfie you and also my self and likewise to instruct those that desire to learn this Excellent Rule the Rule of Three which rightly for its excellent Use is called the Golden Rule Observe this if one foot or 12 Inches be put into 1000 parts as here it is and must be being 't is the Integer or whole summe of 725 the Rule orders it self thus as 1000 is to 12 Inches so is 725 to 8 Inches 700 1000. Now to know what this 700 1000 is in Barley-Corns do as before say thus If 1000 be equal to 3 Barley-Corns what is 700 equal unto I say as here you see it proved that 700 is equal to two Barley-corns and one tenth part of one for 100 is one tenth of 1000. By this it doth plainly appear that if 12 Rod 65 100 be turned into feet it maketh 208 foot 8 Inches 2 Barley-corns and one tenth of a Barley-corn So that you see the square Root of an Acre is near 208 foot 8 Inches two Barley-corns neglecting 1 10 because 65 100 is somewhat too much Now from this 208 foot 8 Inches I take the 12 foot for the Trees to stand off from the Fence there remains 196 foot 8 inches then I divide this by 22 the distance the Trees are to stand asunder So I find there may stand ten Trees for here you see there may be open places and 20 foot 8 inches for one more so there wants but one foot 4 Inches or 16 Inches to make 10 Trees in a Row for there is alwayes a Tree more than the open Note that in planting of Walks this is of good use that as I said before to make one Tree more this 16 inches I divide by 9 being there are 9 opens between the ten Trees the Quotient is near 2 inches which substract from 22 foot and there remains then 21 foot 10 Inches and so much must every Tree stand asunder the proof is as followeth Here you see that'tis 196 foot and 6 Inches it wants but 2. In. Then to know what distance your Rows may stand asunder the Rule is If
and cut upright Boughs a little sloping off they will heal over the better keep them from Suckers and then you may expect good Trees and Fruit of which I wish your Hedge-rowes were full Of all sorts of Trees whatsoever if any Roots be broke or much bruised or cracked cut them off till you come to firm Wood the slope tending to the Ground like a Horse-foot but be very sparing in cutting the Roots of Greens and also in cutting their heads off yet you may proportion the Head to the Root by cutting off some side-boughs which cut off if your Green be tender the latter end of March or in April and cut the Bough off two or three Inches from the Body and that time come Twelve month take off that piece close and cover the wound with a little Wax or Clay well tempered if your Greens be for high Trees endeavour to make them taper by leaving some side-boughs to ease the head In all Trees you intend for Timber be cautious in cutting off their heads especially those of great Piths such as the Ash Walnut c. Unless your Tree grow top-heavy or much crooked and then at the crooked place cut off the head sloping upward and nurse up one of the principal shoots to be the leading Shoot but such as are subject to die when headed or any Tree very great meddle not with such the Beech is one of the worst to head of any Tree I know Such Trees as you intend for to grow to a certain proposed height you must take care to keep them taper by leaving side-boughs in convenient place and distance to make them taper cutting such boughs off when you find your Tree is swelled enough below still minding to take off the greatest side-boughs and leave little ones and to proportion your head by keeping it small according to the Body and maintaining the leading Shoot letting it have no equals for forked Trees are never straight Thus do till you have got your Tree to the height you intend and there let the Head break out and cut off all the side-boughs but if side-boughs still break out then give them a Summer-pruning a little after Midsummer and cut them off close so will you kill them and have a fine stately clear Body and fine Timber-tree See Chap. 10. Observe this in all Trees you would have grow with a handsome straight body till you have got them to the height you intend they shall head at Whilest your Trees be small you must prune them every year The best time for most is the Spring but hardy Trees and Wood may be pruned at any time in Winter when they be a little older once in two year then once in three and then in four and never seldomer than once in five or six so will the Bough be small the Tree will soon overgrow the place the Knot will not be great to vex the Carpenter or Joyner at all the place will not be very subject to put forth Suckers because the Sap hath had no great recourse to that place Mind alwayes to cut off your Boughs smooth and close to the Body This if you please to doe you may have fine Timber and handsom Trees which I dare engage will pay you or yours well for your helps to them The like doe with your standard Fruit-trees or those you intend for Pollards till you have got them to the height you design they shall head at and at setting if they be tender Trees or Trees that have great Pith. If you must head them let it be in the Spring when you find they begin to bud but then you must take care of the winds in Winter that they shake them not so as to let the Air in to the ground to kill the Roots therefore tie them to good Stocks Or this is a good way for Trees that have not great Piths or are very tender cut off some of the tops of the Boughs when you set them so let them be till the Spring and when you see the Bud break out then cut them on every shoot of the head a little above the lowest Bud or two of each shoot so will the head shoot but with few shoots and they will be the stronger the head being small the Root will endeavour to proportion it to its former greatness or near it but if you have many shoots break out then cut them all off but four or five for so many are enough to make Arms for any Tree but if then you find the Tree to shoot too much and grow top-heavy as sometimes they will if well kept and on good ground then head the Tree again but not so low as you did before for Reason ought to be used in all things this will make your Tree swell in body much and in time be a fine Tree So that I say endeavour to get a good Body for in Fruit-trees this is to be noted that you must in the first place endeavour to get your Tree in such a Condition as to bear you good Fruit and a Quantity rather than little Fruit early and then never good Fruit or Tree after therefore if you have a Tree that doth not thrive but is subject to blow much as most such Trees are cut off the blowing Buds in the Spring as low to a Leafie Bud as you can and some shoots as near the place where the Tree headed as you can but mind to leave some Buds on the head to draw up the Sap or else your Tree may break out in the middle of the Body or a little above Ground but if your Buds once shoot on the head but half a foot then will your Tree come away Thus and by digging about have I helped many a stunted Tree forward which you may doe likewise if you please I have many times observed several Fruit-trees as Pears Apples c. to be full of false-bearing Buds I call them so because they did not blow for the Tree having got more head than the Roots could well maintain had not strength sufficient to spare sap for blossom nor yet for Fruit which by pruning and thinning the heads of such Trees and by slitting the bark on the Body in the Spring hath made them afterwards to bear well when they have put forth new shoots at the head And some sorts of Fruit-trees there be which will blow and bear themselves to death when they be middle-aged as before I told you some young ones would if not helped by pruning but the best wayes to preserve such Trees from death and to make them bear pretty good Fruit is to cut off most of the blowing Buds and to thin the head of some boughs to make it shoot again then will it live many years longer and bear better Fruit Some Trees there be that will run so much into wood that they will not bear of themselves till they come to be old but if you cut off the head of the shoots
the Diameter at the End or by having the side of a square equal to the Base thereof but we having the Circumference which is 72 Inches I shall proceed that way And first by the Rule and Compasses the Circumference being 72 Inches and the Length 696 Inches how many solid feet are there in such a tree As is the standing Number 147 36 To the Circumference 72 Inches So is the Length in Inches 696 To a fourth Number And from that to the Content in feet 166 and near half that Division being so small it cannot well be read on a two-foot Rule Extend the Compasses from the 147 â—6 â—â—0 point to 72 on the left hand keep the Compasses fixed and set one point on the Number 696 the Length in Inches and then turning your Compasses twice from that Number towards the left hand the point will fall upon 166. and near a half the solid Content in feet Or more easily thus As is the standing Number 42. 54. To 72 Inches the Circumference So is 58 foot the Length To a fourth and that fourth to 166 foot and a ½ fore Extend the Compasses from 42. 54 to 72 the Circumference in Inches that Extent will reach from 58 foot the Length to another Number and from that Number to 166 foot and somewhat more but how much more I shall shew you with my Pen and the ordinary way of working though Log. is much easier but some may not have tables or not understand them if they have Now having the Circumference given which is 72 Inches we must find the Diameter and the Rule is As 22 is to 7 so is 72 to 22 91 100 Inches the Diameter near 23 as here it is wrought Or you may do it by two turns of your Compasses Extend your Compasses from 22 to 7 the same Extent will reach from 72. to neer 23 for it wants but 2. of 22 Or if you will have it in more exact terms then Now for the Content of the Head multiply half the Circumference by half the Diameter and it giveth the superficial Content This multiplyed by 696 the Length of the Tree in Inches giveth the solid Content in Inches and that summ divided by 1728 the Inches in a Cubical Foot sheweth you how many foot and parts are in the tree The whole Content in Cube-feet is about 166 and a little more for if you come within ¼ of a foot in such summes as this with the Rule and Compasses 't is well When this Tree was sawn off a little above the Root I told just 72 annual Circles some of them were the greatest that I ever yet saw in any tree and those were about the middle of its Age some three made above one Inch so that the tree then did grow above two Inches in Diameter in three years time but at first and of late for some 6 or 7 years it did increase but little for it was neer at its full growth so that if you multiply 12 the Semi-Diameter for it was 24 Inches at the root-Root-end by 6 it gives you 72 so that it did grow one year with another 2 Inches in 6 year or one Inch in Diameter in three years I do not bring this Tree in for its Greatness but for its quick growth and fine Length of Timber which was helped by its situation it standing in a Valley and set round with many other great trees If this tree had been sold alone it being such a straight Tree and such a tough grane for your great grand Trees are alwayes the toughest to some Pike-maker c. it had been worth 1 s. 6 d. the foot at which price the very timber comes to 09 l. 15 s. 09 d. then the Head and Roots would well pay for the Stocking and making up the wood and make up this summe Ten pound too I do not bring this to compare with Trees that are and have been for the ingenious Author in his Discourse of Forrest-trees pag. 84. tells you of a Tree worth 50 l. as affirmed by Capt. Bullock but I mention it to shew those that love Trees what Profit a thriving tree brings them yearly And I dare affirm that they had better pay Use for Money than cut down a tree that stands in a good place and is in a good thriving Condition therefore if your trees be growing and increase in shoot be not too hasty in felling and when they are decaying it is too late therefore let them not decay too long before you fell them When your Wood is come to the growth you intend to fell at if your Wood be thick of wood then fell the Timber-trees and underwood as close to the ground as you can but if your wood be thin then stock up your trees especially if great timber and the Winter after into these holes where you stocked up the trees set Elm Cherry Popler Sarvice aud Sallow-Cuttings so will these trees which are subject to grow from the running Roots thicken your woods the Roots will pay for the stocking you will save a soot or two of the best of timber and the Roots of other wood will grow the better in the loose ground where you made the holes whereas the old Roots would keep the Ground from nourishing or any from growing there for many years If your Ground be a shallow Soyl do not fill up the holes quite but set in some Running wood the Ground being deep by the hills will make the other wood grow better and the ends of several Roots being cut will shoot forth at the sides of the hole and the holes will receive Seeds which the wind will blow into them and there being weeds to choak them they will grow well For these Reasons I stocked up all the great trees which we felled in our Wood at Cashiobury and I set in an Elm and a Cherry by the sides of the holes and the Spring after there came out of the side-roots of Maple Cherry c. which made good shoots and many Sallows came up in the holes whereby our Woods were very well thicken'd to the Conteut of my ingenious Lord though many people were much against it because it was not used so to be done If your Wood be thin at every felling lay some boughs which are most convenient into the thin places and before next fall you will have them well rooted and good shoots from them A man will doe a great many in one day for which you will be well satisfied in time December and January is the best time to fell Timber but the Oak in April if you would have the Bark when the Moon is decreasing and the wind not East When the Stubs of your under-woods are grown great stock them up This is found to be good Husbandry with us in Hartfordshire which they call Runting their Woods it makes way for Seedlings and young Roots to run the better Do this at felling-time wheresoever you have felled Trees at the Ground When
the Roots begin to rot they then come up best then stock them all up the other Wood will grow the better and they will pay you well for your Charge they will cost you about 6 s. a Stack and here they will be worth 12 s. or more when stocked up When you fell your Woods or Coppices cut them smooth and close to the Stub and a little slanting upwards as I advised you about Lopping Pollards the oftner you fell your Woods Coppices or Hedges the thicker they will grow for every felling gives way to the young Seedlings to get up and makes the weak Plants shoot strong Those Woods which increase by running Roots as Elm Cherry Popler Maple Sarvice c. which thicken your wood much And Felling makes the Roots of a tree to swell as Lopping doth the Body and so it produceth the greater shoots and comes sooner to perfection Whereas great wood and old and ill taken off from the Stub many times kills all When you fell your Woods leave young Trees enough you may take down the worst that stand next fall especially neer a great tree that you judge may go down next fall for by its fall it may spoyl some The Statute saith you are to leave twelve score Oaks at every Fall on an Acre for want of them so many Elms Ashes Beeches c. But leave according to the thinness of your wood and where underwood sells well there let your Timber-trees stand the thinner and in such Countreys where Coals are cheap and Timber sells well there let your Timber-trees stand thick and then they will need but little pruning up Endeavour to plant in your Woods such sorts of Wood as the Ground is most proper for if wet then Alder Sallow Willow Withy c. if shallow and dry Ash Cherry Beech Popler c. if shallow and wet Hornbeam Sallow Sarvice c. but remember that the Oak and Elm be entertained in all places If your Woods or Coppices be in Parks where you lye open to Deer then at every Fall plant in them such woods whose Barks the Deer do not much love such are the Hornbeam Hasel Sycamore c. When Trees are at their full growth there be several Signs of their Decay which give you warning to fell it before it be quite decayed As in an Oak when the top-boughs begin to die then it begins to decay In an Elm or Ash if their head dies or if you see they take wet at any great Knot which you may know by the side of the Tree being discolour'd below that place before it grows hollow or if hollow you may know by knocking it with the head of an Axe of which you may be the surer satisfied by boring into the middle of it with a small Auger or if you see the Nighills make holes in it these be certain Signs the Tree begins to decay but before it decayes much down with it and hinder not your self CHAP. XXXVII How to take the heighth of a Tree several wayes the better to judge the worth of them c. HAving shewed you how you may judge of Timber whether it be sound or not in the last Chapter I will now shew you how to take the heighth that you may the better know the worth of it for where you have a Rule to go by you may then the better ghess There be several wayes to take the Altitude of a Tree or Building that is perpendicular as by a two-two-foot Rule or two Sticks joyned in a right Angle that is square as the Figure A. B. C. having at A. a pin or hole to hang a Thred and Plummet on Suppose you were to take the height of X Y first then hold that end of your square marked with C. to your Eye then goe backward or forward till the Thred and Plummet hang just upon the middle of your Square perpendicular and your eye looking through two sights or two Pins at A. and C. or over the ends of the Square thus look to the very top of the Building at X. See Fig. 8 9. Which found with a Line and Plummet from your Eye at C let fall to the Ground at D measure the length of that Line and adde it to the height that Length to E then measure the distance from E. to the foot of the Altitude as at Y and that if your Ground be level is the height of of X. Y. Or take the Level from your Eye to the height and adde that which is below the Level to the Height c. as the Line C. F. sheweth To find the height of a Tree c. by a straight Staffe or by a Line and Plummet the Sun shining the Altitude perpendicular and the Ground Level if not you must make the end of both the shadows level to each foot which is soon done As if I should take the Level of B. at C. finding the very top of the shadow to End there I measure the Distance from C. to B. and find it 60 foot then at that very instant I set up a stick perpendicular as E. D. 12 foot long which I find to cast a shadow just 9 foot and then the Rule orders it self thus As 9 foot to 12 so 60 foot to 80 which you will find true if you work it by Logarithmes or by Rule and Compass thus Set one point on 9 extend the other to 12 that Extent will reach from 60 to 80 Or if you work it by Natural Arithmetick as 9 is to 12 so 60 to 80. See Fig. 10. The same may be done by Line and Plummet To take the Altitude or height by a Bole of Water or by a Lookingglass placed parallel to the Horizon Place on the Ground a Bole of Water or a Looking-glass at a convenient distance from the Building or Tree as far as you think the height is then go back till you espie in the middle of the Water or Glass the very top of the Altitude which done keep your standing and let a Plum-line fall from your Eye till it touch the Ground which gives the height of your Eye from the Ground 2. Measure the distance from your Plummet to the Middle of the water 3. The distance from the middle of the water to the foot of the Altitude Which Distances if you have measured exactly straight and level by Proportion you may find the Altitude required thus As the distance from the Plummet level to the Center of the Water or Glass Is to the height of your Eye from the Ground which is the Length of your Plum-line So is the distance from the Center of the Water to the Base or foot of the Altitude exact perpendicular to the very top of the height which gave the shadow to the Altitude for if your Object be not upright and you measure straight and level and just under the top that gave the shadow If you miss in any one of these you are quite out in taking the height
over first and if you find an odde Tree let it stand in the Mid-line and in the Circumference as at B. but if no odde Tree then let the Mid-line pass tween two Trees adding or substracting the odde Inches till you find the equal distance your Trees must stand at c. See Fig. 15. Let the Trees in your Circle stand not much above half the distance that the Trees are in the Rowes as in the last they were 16 foot â—ere Trees in the walk 24 foot but in the Oval thicker that they may shew the Figure the better A fine Tree in the Centre of all Circles doth well See Fig. 16. Two Walks meeting in a Point let that be the Centre of the Circle as at A. and there a Tree Two Walks crossing one another where the Mid line meets let that be the Centre of a Circle as B. Note That if your Circle be divided into two parts by Walks as the Circle A. find a distance that the Trees in each part may stand as neer that distance as may be there they be near 11 foot both and the Circle B. neer 10 foot asunder Now the smaller parts the Circle is put into the thicker set your Trees round it as B. is put into four parts by the two Walks crossing it set these parts the thicker that they may shew the Figure the better Of three Walks going up to a Circle as they doe to the Bowling-Green at Cashiobury which Green is 80 yards or 240 foot diameter with a border 16 foot wide planted with three Rowes of Spruce-firs set in the year 1672. being set Circular and Triangular see the Figure there are 90 trees in the outer Row and 90 Trees in the innermost Row and 89 in the middle Row which is 269 trees I lost not one of these except one that was stollen See Fig. 17. To plant such a Border first with a Line on the Centre B. mark out the Circle where the inner Row should goe then set two Trees in the Circle and in the Rows of the VValk as at A. A. then having resolved of the distance to set them at run that Distance over from A. A. and the odde Inches or parts adde or substract according to the Number of the Opens to or from the Measure you first resolved on as is shewed before c. 1. Next I shall shew you some wayes how VValks may come into or end in a Semi-circle or Segment of a Circle c. as A. being a Gate B. C. is a Hedge or Pale A. is the Centre of the middle of the VValk and Circle See Fig. 18. Or thus The Centre at A. and then three Trees or more to go to the Pale parallel to the Walk as 1 2 3. 2. How three Walks may come into a Semi-Circle See Fig. 19. This may be continued on with three or more Trees parallel to the Mid-line as in Fig. 19 c. 3. How three Walks may break into a Semi-circle at three several places and how to make the Semi-circle so great as that you may have just so much Wood on all sides of the Walks as the Walks are broad or to order it to what proportion you please Suppose the three Walks to be each forty foot wide which makes 120 foot then there is to be 40 foot without one side-walk and 40 foot without the other side-walk and 40 foot between each of the side-walks and the Middle-walk which is four times 40 foot that is 160 foot so that the 120 foot makes 280 foot for the Arch of this Semicircle then find the Semi-diameter to the Arch of this Circle and strike the Arch from the Centre Ex. The Semi-circumference being 280 the Circumference is then 560. Then as 22 is to 7 or if you will be more Exact as the Learned Oughtred in his Circles of Proportion pag. 43. saith as 3.1416 is to 1. so is the Circumference to the Diameter but the other is a standing Rule nigh enough for our purpose As 22 to 7 so 560 to 178 4 22 the Diameter if you turn this Fraction into Inches it will be two Inches and near half of a Barley-Corn so then the whole Diameter will be 178 foot 2 Inches the half is 89 foot one Inch With this 89 foot one Inch being the Semi-diameter draw the Arch of your Semi-circle which Arch shall be 280 foot and from the Centre by which you drew this Arch may be the Mid-line of your three Walks as is described in the Figure See Fig. 20. Let the Centre A. be in a straight Line with the pricked Line B. B. and parallel to the Middle-walk C. the Line B. A. B. may be if Convenience serve 50 or 60 foot from the wall pale hedge and that to goe parallel to that Line and where the wall or pale ends there may be a Row of Trees continued so far as you please or can c. At the Centre A. let be some fine Tree set or some Figure c. I once saw a Semi-circle set out somewhat like this where I saw a great deal of measuring before they could proportion it exactly to such a place as was intended I took my Pen and by these Rules I told them justly how far they should goe More I could say if I thought it not unseasonable now Here you see how to proportion a Semi-circle which you may enlarge with three four or five Trees on each side and parallel to the Middle-walk as is in the second Figure of Semi-circles but be mindfull to make such a Figure for your Walks to end in and of such a bigness as is most convenient to your Ground the Arch of the Semi-circle may be one Row of Trees as in the Figure or two three four or more as you please but three Rows set triangular do very well 4. How and where a Semi-circle is proper on the side of a Walk c. Suppose you have a Walk a Mile in length or more it is no wayes improper but pleasant and satisfactory to have your Walks shew you every ¼ of a Mile ½ of a Mile and ¾ c. to the End or from each End or from one End back to the other as if you begin at the Centre-tree in the Semi-circle at A. then at ¼ of a Mile at the Figure 1. make a Semi-circle to break out on the Right hand the Centre-tree to be exactly in the Row of the Walk and just a quarter of a mile as is shewed in the Figure as well as the Largeness of our Paper would bear by the Semi-circle Figure 1 then at the half mile let two Trees stand in a Semi-circle at Figure 2 one to stand in the Row that makes the walk which two Trees is half a mile and at three quarters three Trees still minding that one be in the Row or Walk the Centre-tree of your Circle and the exact distance So one Tree the Centre of the Semi-circle as at Figure 1. is a ¼ of
Figures and how they are to be measured TO speak of all sorts of Figures will be far beyond my intentions there being so very many irregular Figures which have many unequal sides and angles but they may all be brought into parts of some of the Figures following and Measured like them I shall shew you one Useful Prob. especially to make your Ovals by whether they be made from two Centres or four and then I shall touch at some Superficial Figures See Fig. 30. Suppose three pricks or points given so they be not in a strait line to find a Centre to bring them into a Circle This may be done several ways viz. either by Circles or by raising Perpendiculars as if the points at A. B. C. were to be brought into a Circle Draw a line from A. to B. and in the middle of that line raise a Perpendicular as the line D. E. which you may soon do for if you open your Compasses to any convenient distance and set one point in B. draw the Arch 1. and 2. then setting one point in 4. draw 3. and 4. where these cross draw the line E. D. Do the same with the points B. C. and where the two Perpendicular lines meet is the Centre as at F c. Superficial Figures that are irregular and right-lined are such whose Sides or Angles are un-equal of which some are triangles or triangular Figures and here Note that there are five sorts of triangles which are thus Named and known 1. Isocheles hath two of the sides unequal 2. Scalena hath the three sides unequal 3. Orthygone hath one Right and two Acute Angles 4. Ambligone hath one Obtuse and two Acute Angles 5. Oxygone hath three Acute Angles or Equilateral triangles See Fig. 31. Every triangle is half of a square whose Length and Breadth is equal to the Perpendicular and Side cut by the Perpendicular as is plain in the first Figure shewed by the pricked lines therefore to Measure any triangle raise a Perpendicular from the Base to the greatest Angle Then Multiply the whole Base by half the Perpendicular or the whole Perpendicular by half the Base and the Product is the Content Or thus take the whole Base and whole Perpendicular and Multiply one by the other the half of that Summe is the Content of the triangle c. Square or Quadrangular Figures are these following 1. A Geometrical square this hath Right Angle and sides equal 2. An Oblong-square which hath equal opposite sides and Rectang 3. A Rhombus hath equal Sides and unequal Angles 4. A Rhomboides having unequal Sides and Angles opposite equal 5. Trapezia Are all other four-sided Figures See Fig. 32. The first is Measured by Multiplying one of the Sides in its self In the Second the length Multiplyed by the breadth gives the Content The three last may be turned into two triangles each and so Measured as is before said Polygones are these Figures following as the end of a Tree hewed into five equal sides this is called a Pentagone of six sides Hexagone seven sides Heptagone eight sides Octagone nine sides Enneagone ten sides Decagone twelve sides Dodecagone To Measure any of these take half the perimeter that is half the Compass about and the perpendicular drawn from the Centre to the middle of any one of the sides Multiply the one by the other and it giveth the Content Circular Figures are these which be thus Named 1. The Circle is near Equal to a square made of ½ Diameter and ½ Circumference 2. The Semi-Circle to a square made of half the Arch line and ½ Semi-diameter 3. The Quadrant or fourth part of a Circle 4. The Segment Arch or part of a Circle The first is Measured by Multiplying the Semi-circumference by the Semi-diameter The second by Multiplying the Radius or Semi-diameter by ¼ of the Circumference of the whole Circle The third by Multiplying the Radius by ⅛ of the Circumference of the Circle that it was made of The fourth by Multiplying the Radius by ½ the length of that Arch-line thus have you the Content or Area of each To find the Diameter of any Circle or the Circumference by having one given the lowest Number is as 7 is to 22. so is the Diameter to the Circumference or as 22 is to 7. so is the Circumference to the Diameter To find the Length of an Arch-line Geometrically This Problem is Useful to be known for to Measure the Quadrand Segment of a Circle or Oval for the Oval is made of parts of the Circle First Divide the Chord-line of the part of the Circle into four equal parts then set one of these parts from one End of the Chord-line also set one of the four parts from the Angle in the Arch-line then from one point to the other draw a Line the length of this Line is half the length of the Arch-line See Fig. 33. Examp. A. B. the Chord-line Divided into 4 parts one of the 4 parts set from B. to C. and one part set from A. to D. then draw the Line C. D. which Line is half the length of the Arch-line A. D. B. which was to be found out Thus may you Measure this part of a Circle or the like but if the part of a Circle be greater than a Semi-circle then Divide the Arch-line into two Equal parts and find the length of one of these as is afore-said which doubled giveth the length of the whole Arch-line This Rule will assist you to Measure the Oval whether it be made from two Centres or four c. There is no regular Figure but may be Reduced into some of these Figures afore-said therefore I shall shew you the Use of some Geometrical Figures which are very Useful not Questioning but that you Understand the first Rules in Geometry as to draw a parallel Line to Raise a perpendicular-line from another c. for those things are out of my intended Discourse therefore if you be to seek in them consult with Euclid and others How to Raise a Perpendicular at the end of a Line by which you make a Square very Vseful also to set off a square-line from a strait-line in any Garden Walk House-end or the like See Fig. 34. Examp. If you be desired to set off a square-line at B. from the Line A. B. take six Foot Yards or Rod and Measure from B. to C. in your strait-line then take eight of the same Measure and set from B. to D. and ten of the same holding one end at C. bring the Line B. D. till it just touch the Line C. D. at D. so have you an Exact Square made by 6. 8. and 10. See Euclid first Book Prob. 47. and p. 35. Math. Recreations p. 93. See Fig. 35. This you may do in other Numbers that bear the like proportion for Euc. tells you that the square made of the side subtending the Right Angle is Equal to the squares made of both the sides containing the Right
6 37. 2. 0 3. 3. 0 1. 20 7 43. 3. 0 4. 1. 20 1. 30 8 50. 0. 0 5. 0. 0 2. 0 9 56. 1. 0 5. 2. 20 2. 10 Poles into Acres observe this Table The Denominations of the several Numbers are known by the Marks under which they are set as all under Ac. are Acres under Ro. are Roods under Po. are so many Pole and so the first Column under M. answereth to Thousands that under C. to Hundreds that under X. to Tens and the odde Pole if any be are set down under Pole As e. g. 1442 Pole To know how many Acres by this Table first for the One thousand in the Table under M. is 6 Acres one Rood set that down as you see in the preceding Page then four Hundred under C. and against 4 is 2 Acres 2 Roods set that down then in the Table under X. and against 4 is one Rood set that down then the odde Poles set down alwayes under the Poles as 2 under Poles then summe them up and you shall find it is 9 Acres 2 Pole as before This Table being so plain there needs no more Examples A Table of superficial long Measure from an Inch to a Mile according to the Standard of England Inch.       12 A foot      36 3 A yard     45 3 ¾ 1 ¼ Ell.    198 16 ½ 5 ½ 4 ⅖ Pole   7920 660 220 176 40 Furlong  63360 5280 1760 1408 320 8 Mile A Table of square Measure Acres 4 160 4840 43560  Rood 40 1210 10890   Pole 30 ¼ 272 ¼    Yards 9     Feet An Example of the Table of long Measure Suppose you were to find out how many Inches were in a Pole long look under Inches and against Pole there is 198 and so many Inches are in a Pole long and 16 ½ Foot 5 ½ Yards And in the Table of Square Measure to know how many square Yards is in a Pole look against Pole and above Yards there is 30 ¼ the square yards in a Pole There be several other sorts of superficial Measures as Pavings Plaisterings Wainscotings and Painting which are to be measured by the Yard square and may be measured by some of the Rules before shewed your readiest way is by the Yard divided into ten parts so will you odde Measure come into Decimal Fractions which are as easily cast up as whole Numbers Or if you measure by the Foot Rule have it divided into 10 parts and when you have found the Content in feet divide it by 9 the Quotient will shew you how many yards and if any remain they be feet Some sorts of Work are measured by the square of 10 foot the side so that such a Square is 100 foot for ten times Ten is a Hundred By this Measure is your Carpenters Work measured as Floors Partitions Roofs of Houses So also is Tiling and Slatting measured this is very ready to measure and to cast up for if you multiply the Breadth by the Length so many hundreds as you find so many Squares are there and what remains are parts of a Square Board and Glass c. are measured by the foot which may be divided into ten parts which will be much easier to count up But if you would be more fully satisfied in the Rules of Surveying see the work of Mr. Leyborn Mr. Wing Mr. Rathborn c. Having the Length of a Field to know what Breadth will make one Acre of Ground by the Four-pole Chain and Line of Numbers Ex. The Length is 12 Chains 50 Links to find the Breadth to make that Length just one Acre do thus Extend your Compasses from 12.50 the Length to 10 that Extent will reach from one to 80 which is the Breadth in Links to make one Acre for if you multiply 12.50 by 80 it yields 100000 from which if you take off five Cyphers there remains one which is one Acre c. CHAP. XLI Of Measuring Holes and Borders that be under a Pole broad by which you may the better lett or take them to doe by the Pole-square c. with several Tables of Measures HOles for to set Trees in are seldome made under one foot Diameter or above eight foot Diameter the Depth may be reduced to a foot deep The Rules to measure any Circle by are the same which is thus To take the Semi-circumference and the Semi-diameter and multiply these Halfs the one by the other sheweth the superficial Content or Area of that Circle This you may work either by the Pen or Line of Numbers As by the line of Numbers thus The Diameter being four foot extend the Compasses from 1. to 4. the Diameter keep your Compasses fixed and alwayes on the Number 7854 set one point and turn twice to the Right hand but if they fall off at the End at the second turn then must you set them on the first part of the Line when you have turned them once c. Having taken the distance of 1 to 4. and set one poynt on the standing Number 7854 the other poynt goes to 31 and neer ½ thence if you turn another turn it will go off from the Line therefore you must find the poynt 31 and near ½ on the first part of the Line and set one poynt there the other will reach to 12 and about 58 100 which tells you that in a Circle of 4 foot Diameter there are 12 superficial square feet and a half and better Now to work it according to the Rule above by the Line if you multiply the Semi-diameter by the Semi-circumference it giveth the Content the same way I shall do it with my Pen Example First having the Diameter I must find the Circumference Extend the Compasses from 7 to 22. the same will reach from 4 to 12. 58 the Circumference then ½ of 12. 58 is 6 29 100 the Semi circumference which multiply by 2 the Semi diameter Extend the Compasses from 1 to 2 the same Extent will reach from 6. 29 to 12. 58 as before that is twelve foot and a half and 8 100 You here may see how easily and readily the Golden Rule and Multiplication may be performed by the Line of Numbers which I use the oftener that you might take the more notice of the Easiness of it to work any of the Rules of Arithmetick by Being once perfect in this you will soon understand the Sector with its excellent uses in the Mathematicks performed by Lines and Compasses but according to the last Rule see the same Question wrote with the Pen that you may see the Agreement that is between Geometry and Arithmetick Example 144 Which 741 Barly-corns is above half a foot as was shewed before but in finding the Circumference I adde a Cypher to 4 which makes it 40 from that I take 6 times 7 which is 42 and should be
Inches then must you turn your Compasses from the length in feet to the Left-hand And because this Rule is the most used see another Example for this way most men do measure by Example 5. A Board ten Inches broad and 6 foot long how many foot are there in that Board Extend your Compasses from 12 the standing number to 10 the breadth in Inches that Extent will reach from 6 the length in feet to the left hand to 5 the Content in feet for as 12 is to 10 so is 6 to 5. Thus having shewed some Examples in superficial measure in Multiplication here I shall shew a few Examples in solid Measures and first know that you must take the superficial Content of the Base or End of the Piece of Timber or Stone c. whether it be Round Square or Triangle which you may do by Multiplication as is before shewed then multiply the Content of the Base by the Length of the piece and the product giveth the solid Content of the piece Example Sixth A piece of Timber 14 Inches Broad and 10 Inches deep and 30 Inches long how many square Inches in that piece of Timber Set one poynt of your Compasses on one extend the other to 10 the depth that Extent will reach from 14 the breadth to 140 the Content of the Base Then set one poynt of your Compasses on one and extend the other to 30 the Length that same Extent will reach from 140 the Content of the Base to 4200 the solid Content of the piece in Inches But if you would find the Content of this piece of Timber or any other in feet and parts you may do it thus Find the Content of the Base as before then as the square Inches in a foot viz. 1728 is to the Content of the Base so is the length in Inches to the Content in feet and parts Example 7. How many feet and parts are there in the piece of the last Example which was 14 Inches broad and 10 Inches deep and 30 Inches long having found the Base as before to be 140 then extend the Compasses from 140 to 728 that same Extent will reach from 30 the Length in Inches to two foot and neer a half viz. to two foot 744 Inches you must turn your Compasses from 30 towards the left hand But if you desire to know how much in length makes a foot then the Rule is thus As the Content of the Base is to 1728 the Inches in a foot square that same Extent will reach from 1 to the Number of Inches or parts which will make a foot at such a Length Example 8. Of the same piece of Timber mentioned in the last Example the Base you may find as before to be 140 then extend the Compasses from 140 the Base to 1728 the Inches in a foot square that same Extent will reach from 1 to 12 and little more than 35 100 for if you multiply 12 35 100 by 140 the product will be 1729 which is but one more than the Inches in a foot And here you may note the Error that many men commit in adding the Breadth and Depth together and take the half of that summe for the true square and the more the sides differ the more they be mistaken The same Error is daily committed by those which measure Timber for they take the Circumference in the middle of the piece of Round Timber and one fourth part of that they take for the true square of the piece which is altogether false as I said before though Custom doth strongly uphold that error against Reason But if it be a true squared piece of Timber then you may measure it this way very Readily as Example 9. A piece of Timber 10 Inches square and 16 foot long The Rule is this Alwayes set one poynt of your Compasses on 12 extend the other to the side of the square in Inches or parts that Extent will reach from the Length in feet or parts to a fourth Number and from that Number to the Content in feet and parts that is it will reach from the Length of the piece of Timber in feet and parts to the Content in feet and parts As thus in this Example Extend your Compasses from 12 to 10 the side of the square in Inches that distance will reach from 16 the Length in feet at two turns of your Compasses to 11 foot and a little above 1 10 viz 11 foot and 192 1728. Be sure alwayes to remember that if your piece of Timber be less than 12 Inches square then you must turn twice from the Length of the piece to the Left hand but if more than 12 Inches then to the Right hand twice Now this being the way in use I will shew one Example more of a Tree 30 foot long having the Circumference 60 Inches now the fourth part of 60 is 15 which I take for the side of a square equal to that Circle as is usually done though not with truth alwayes Example 10. Then I extend my Compasses from 12 to 15 the side of the Square in Inches and that Extent will reach from 30 the Length in feet to near 47 feet the Content this is the customary way but if you look into the Table pag. 174 you may there see that 60 Inches Circumference one foot length gives 1.988 which multiplyed by 30 gives 59 foot and 640 here also you see the error of the customary way but of this I have said enough already and therefore shall give no more Examples now but note this that what is here said of Foot-measure may also be applyed to Pole Yard or the like Having the Root given by two turns of your Compasses you may save two Multiplications and find the square of that Root and the Cube c. and so may you find as many Numbers as you please in a continual Proportion Example 11. The Root being given extend your Compasses from one to 12 that Extent will reach from 12 to 144 the same Extent will reach from 144 to 1728 so then if 12 be the Root 144 is the square of that Root and 1728 the Cube of that Root c. but note that when you extend your Compasses from 1 to 12 the next turn will go off the Line therefore you must seek 12 at the beginning of the Line to the left hand and then turn from that 12 note this in all Cases wherein your Compasses go off the Line Thus having shewed you the Root being given readily to find the Cube I will now shew you the Cube being given how to find the Root and though this and some other Examples before be not done by Multiplication yet because they depend one upon another I do here shew them To extract the Cube-Root the Rule is divide the space between the Cube given and 1 into 3 equal parts and the distance of one of these 3 parts from 1 is the Root Example 11. The Cube 64 being given what
it be about two or three Inches Diameter If you make your hole with an Iron Crow make it big enough that you do not thrust up the Bark when you thrust them into the hole or if you make them with a Stake observe the same but if you fear the Bark to part from the wood tie it about the lower end with a piece of Wier c. set them about one foot and a half deep if great deeper or if you have a quantity to set and would set them well then have an Auger made somewhat like to a Pumps a little bigger than your sets so may you set your sets in and ram the Earth close to them but however you set them be sure to Ramme the Earth close to them I preferre the beginning of Winter for the best season unless your Ground be very wet then deferre it till February But if you have ground that is wet and barren and that you are minded to plant make Dreins two spade-deep and a yard wide and at every two yards asunder cast up the Earth upon the two yards of ground you left and sow it the first year with Oats to mellow the Ground which may pay a good part of your Charge if not all the next Winter set it with these sorts of woods Water-popler and others Alder Willow Withy Sallows c. and in four or five years after you may have a good Fall of wood so may you have every five or six year after for many years To encourage you Esquire Evelin tells you of an Abele that did shoot in one year seventeen foot in length and as thick as your VVrist and also informs you of some VVillowes that have shot no less than twelve foot in one year Therefore to those Gentlemen that have wet or moorish Ground which is bad and will not grase well do I direct this good Husbandry especially where wood is scarce and fells well The Charge to do this will not be great and to satisfie you the more I shall here shew you if you dig two spade deep then there will be but one third part of ground to dig that is to dig your Trenches one yard wide and leave two yards there to lay the Earth and to sow one year or to set the sets as soon as you have made the ground ready 160 Rod in one Acre divided by 3 gives one 3 d. of 160 which is 53 and â…“ This 53 doubled neglecting the â…“ as needless in such a business is 106 Now if I allow 3 d. a Rod for one spade-deep that is 6 d. for two and then 2 d. a Rod for setting is 8 pence the Rod leaving the Sets out and not counting them because I do not know the scarceness or plentifulness of them where you intend to plant though they will cost but little Now if I divide 106 by 2 being 2 Six pences is one Shilling it gives 53 s. and then divide 106 by 6 being 6 Two pences makes One shilling is 17 s. 8. d. By this it appeareth that if the Ground be planted this way having the Trenches digged two foot deep which is the best way to plant any sort of Ground if the soyl be shallow as I shall shew fuller hereafter the Charge excepting the Sets is but 3 l. 10 s. 8 d. where men can dig such ground for 3 d. the Rod. But if the Ground be not very wet or the Soyls surface very shallow then may you dig one yard and leave another throwing half your Earth on one side and half on the other Suppose you were to plant an Acre of Ground this way there will not be half digged especially if the ground be an oblong square but if you count it at half that is 80 Rod which at the same price 3 d. the Rod is 20 s. for if you divide 80 Three-pences by Four the Thirds in a Shilling the Quotient gives 20 then 80 Two-pences for setting is 13 s. 4 d. for if you divide 80 by 6 the Two-pences in one Shilling it gives 13 in the Quotient and 2 over which 2 Two-pences is 4 d. that is then 13 s. 4 d. and 20 s. is one pound 13 s. 4 d. charge Yet as I told you the more oblong the piece is it will cost somewhat the less provided you divide your ground into yards or as near it as you can and leave a yard next the side where you begin and one at the side where you end Having shewed you the Charge or pretty near it and also two wayes how to prepare your ground you may set Truncheons of VVater-popler all sorts of Sallowes Alder VVillowes Oziers c. of Roots Abele Popler and if not too wet Elm Ash c. Let none of these soft woods stand too long unlopt if Pollards or unfelled if Stubs for the Reasons before mentioned Of all the Poplers VVater-popler indures best lopping when great then the Abele the Asp worst when the boughs be great This VVater-popler doth not increase of a Runner as the other doth I suppose this is the same which some call the Black-popler It growes in several places about Ware by their Ditch-sides and brings them good profit and therefore you that have wet grounds get some of this to set by your Ditches one Rowe of this and one of VVillowes for if you set one of these worth a half-penny if they grow they will bring you that yearly for twenty years or more Prune all soft woods at the latter end of VVinter c. CHAP. XXVI Of Raising the Alder. THis Tree may be raised of Truncheons as the other I last writ of some say of Seeds but if you cut them about two foot and a half long and set them two foot in the ground if the ground be proper for them they will certainly grow and yield you good Profit They love a wet moorish ground and will not grow on dry ground they will grow well on your boggy Grounds which seldom yield good Grass Some advise you to fell them every third or fourth year which is good Counsel but do not deferre above five or six years the wounded place will be too great if you stay longer and with wet will grow hollow if it be great before it can overgrow the wound As for soft VVoods or Aquatick Trees fell or lop none till to wards the Spring viz. February is the best Season and the Moon encreasing CHAP. XXVII Of Raising the Withy Willowes Sallow Oziers THE Withy doth best grow on ground that is not very moyst but yet the moysture must not be far from him as on the weeping side of a Hill where some Spring breaks out or on Banks by Rivers or Ditches sides or on Banks in your Moorish ground c. The VVillow loves to grow on such like ground both this and the former are set in such places as the Water-popler is and of such sets as it is to make Pollard trees see the Chapt. before of the Water-popler