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A67329 An account of the Islands of Orkney by James Wallace ... ; to which is added an essay concerning the Thule of the ancients. Wallace, James, d. 1688.; Sibbald, Robert, Sir, 1641-1722. Essay concerning the Thule of the ancients. 1700 (1700) Wing W491; ESTC R34706 63,791 200

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admirably and which is often seen a great way off It hath shined more brightly before than it does now tho' many have climbed up the Hill and attempted to search for it yet they could find nothing The Vulgar talk of it as some enchanted Carbuncle but I take it rather to be some Water sliding down the face of a smooth Rock which when the Sun at such a time shines upon the reflection causeth that admirable splendor At Stennis in the Mainland where the Loch is narrowest in the middle having a Causey of Stones over it for a Bridge there is at the South-end of the Bridge a Round set about with high smooth Stones or Flags about twenty Foot high above ground six Foot broad and each a Foot or two thick Betwixt that Round and the Bridge are two Stones standing of that same largeness with the rest whereof one hath a round hole in the midst of it and at the other end of the Bridge about half a Mile removed from it is a large Round about an hundred and ten paces in Diameter set about with such Stones as the former but that some of them are fall'n down and at both East and West of this bigger Round are two artificial as is thought green Mounts both these Rounds are ditched about See the Figure of it Some think that these Rounds have been places whereon two opposite Armies have encamped but I think it more probable that they have been the high places in the Pagan times whereon Sacrifice was offered and that these two Mounts were the places where the Ashes of the Sacrifice was flung And this is the more probable because Boethius in the Life of Mainus King of Scots makes mention of that kind of high Stones calling them the Temples of the Gods His words are these In Memory of what King Mainus ordained anent the worship of the Gods there remains yet in our days many huge Stones drawn together in form of a Circle named by the People the Ancient Temples of the Gods and it is no small admiration to consider by what Art or Strength so many huge Stones have been brought together So far Boethius There are besides in many other places of this Country Obelisks or great high Stones set in the Ground like the former and standing apart and indeed they are so very large that none sees them but wonders by what Engine they have been erected which are thought to be set up either as a memorial of some famous Battle or as a monument of some remarkable Person that has been buried there that way of honouring deserving and valiant Men being the invention of King Rentha as Boethius says There is in Rousay betwixt high Mountains a place call'd the Camp of Jupiter Fring The name is strange and would import some notable accident but what it was I could not learn At the West-end of the Mainland near Skeal on the top of high Rocks more than a quarter of a Mile in length there is something like a Street all set in red Clay with a sort of reddish Stones of several figures and magnitudes having the Images and Representations of several things as it were engraven on them and which is very strange a great many of these Stones when they are raised up have that same Image engraven under which they have above This Causey is all along the tops of Rocks and though they be otherwise of a very considerable heighth above the Sea yet the West Ocean in a Storm leading that way does dashwith such violence against the Rocks that the Sea breaches do wash the Ground on the tops of the Rocks If these Stones had not the same Figure on that side next the ground that they have above I should think the Sea washing over them might occasion these different figures by washing away the softish parts of the Stone and leaving the harder and so accordingly give them these accidental Shapes and Figures Tho' there are a great many of them still remaining yet the Gentlemen living near that place have taken away those that had the prettiest Figures to set their Chimnies with as they use to do in Holland with painted Bricks and Tiles In the Links of Skeal where the Sand is blown away with the Wind are found several places built square with Stones well cemented together and a Stone lying in the mouth having some black Earth in them The like of which also are found in the Links of Rousum in Stronsa where also some Years ago was sound another remarkable Monument It was a whole round Stone like a Barrel hollow within sharp edged at the top having the bottom joyn'd like the bottom of a Barrel on the mouth was a round Stone conform to the mouth of the Monument and above that a large Stone for the preservation of the whole within was nothing but red Clay and burn'd Bones See the Figure It 's like that this and the other Four-square Monuments have been some of these Urns wherein the Romans when they were in this Country laid up the Ashes of their dead Likewise in the Links of Tranabie in Westra have been found Graves in the Sand in one of which was seen a Man lying with his Sword on the one Hand and a Danish Axe on the other and others that have had Dogs and Combs and Knives bury'd with them which seems to shew the way how the Danes when they were in this Country bury'd their dead as the other was of the Romans Besides in many places of the Country are found little Hillocks which may be supposed to be the Sepulchres of the ancient Pights For Tacitus tells that it was the way of the ancient Romans and Verstegan that it was the way of the ancient Germans and Saxons to lay dead Bodies on the ground and cover them over with turss and clods of earth in the fashion of little Hillocks hence it seems that the many Houses and Villages in this Country which are call'd by the name of Brogh and which all of them are built upon or beside some such rising ground have been cemeteries for the burying of the dead in the time of the Pights and Saxons For the word Brogh in the Teutonick Language signifies a burying place In one of these hillocks near the circle of high Stones at the North end of the Bridge of Stennis there were found nine Fibulae of Silver of the shape of a Horse-shooe but round See the Figure of one of them Moreover in many places of this Country are to be seen the ruins and vestiges of great but antique Buildings most of them now covered over with Earth and call'd in this Country Pights Houses some of which its like have been the Forts and Residences of the Pights and Danes when they possess'd this Country Among the rest there is one in the Isle of Wyre called the Castle of Cubberow or rather Coppi-row which in the Teutonick Language signifies a Tower of Security from outward violence It
South-Isles and others the North-Isles and that as they stand to the South or North of the greatest Island call'd the Mainland South-Ronalsha is the Southermost of these Islands five Miles long fertile in Corn and abounding with People To the South-East lie the Pightland Skerries dangerous to Seamen but to the North is St. Margarets Hope a very safe Harbour for Ships which has no difficulty in coming to it save a Rock in the middle of the Sound betwixt this Island and Burra call'd Lippa From Burwick in this Isle is the usual Ferry to Duncansbay in Cathnes A little separated from this to the South-West lies Swinna a little Isle and only considerable for a part of Pight land-Firth lying a little to the West of it call'd the Wells of Swinna which are two Whirlpools in the Sea occasion'd as is thought by some Hintus that is in the Earth below that run about with such violence that if any Boat or Ship come within their reach they will whirl it about and about till it be swallow'd up and drown'd They are only dangerous in a great Calm for if there be any Wind and the Boat under Sail there is no danger to go over them If a Boat happen to come near them in a Calm by the force of the Tide driving that way the Boats-men for their preservation throw a Barrel or an Oar or any bulky thing that comes next to hand into the Wells and when it is swallow'd up the Sea remains smooth for a time for any Boat to pass over Beyond this and to the West of South-Ronalsha lies Waes and Hoy thought to be the Dumna of Pliny which are but one Isle about twelve Miles in length full of high Mountains and but thinly inhabited unless in Waes where the Ground is very pleasant and fertile From Snelsetter in Waes is the other Ferry from this Country to Ham in Cathnes Here are several good Harbours as Kirk-hope North-hope Ore-hope and others but not now much frequented tho' North-hope be one of the best Harbours in this Country if not in the whole World and most proper for those that design a Fishing Trade To the North of South-Ronalsha lies Burra a pleasant little Isle fruitful in Corns and abounding in Rabbits Betwixt Burra and the Mainland is Lambholm and to the West towards Hoy-mouth lies Flotta Faira Cava Gramsey all of them fruitful and pleasant Islands tho' they be not large Next to these is the Mainland call'd by the Ancients Pomona or Pomonia about twenty four Miles in length and well inhabited About the middle of this Island to the North stands Kirkwall the only Town in all this Country There are in the Mainland four excellent Harbours for Ships one at Kirkwall both large and safe without any danger by Shoals or blind Rocks as they come to it unless they come from the West by Inhallo and Gairsa Another Harbour is at Deirsound which is a great Bay and a very safe Road for Ships having good anchoring ground and capable of sheltering the greatest Navies The third is at Grahamshall toward the East-side of this Isle where there is a convenient Road but the Ship that sails to it from the East would do well to keep betwixt Lambholm and the Mainland for the other way betwixt Lambholm and Burra which appears to them to be only open is very shallow and dangerous even for small Ships The fourth is at Kairston a small Village at the West end of the Mainland where there is a very safe and commodious Harbour well fenc'd against all Winds by two small Holms that stand at the entry To the East of the Mainland lies Copinsha a little Isle but very conspicuous to Seamen as is that Holm to the North-East of it call'd the Horse of Copinsha To the North of the Mainland lie the North-Isles the first of which is Shapinsha about five or six Miles in length and hath a very safe Harbour for Ships at Elwick Of an equal bigness to that toward the South-East lies Stronsa where there is two very good Harbours one at Lingasound fenc'd with Lingaholm the other at Strynie fenc'd with a little pleasant Isle to the North of it call'd Papa-Stronsa Beyond these toward the North at some distance lies Sanda about twelve Miles long but very narrow well inhabited it hath two Roads for Ships one at Kitletoft guarded by a little Holm call'd the Holm of Elsnes the other at Otterswick guarded by the most Northern-Island in all this Country call'd North-Ronalsha which is a little fruitful Isle but both it and Sanda have no Moss Ground but are obliged to bring their Peits and Turfs which is the only Fuel they have thorough this whole Country a great way off from the next adjacent Island Eda This Eda lyeth to the South-East of Sanda thought to be the Ocetis of Ptolemy near five Miles in length full of Moss and Hills but thinly inhabited unless it be about the skirts of it it has a safe Road to the North call'd Calf-sound Three Miles to the West of Kirkwall at the bottom of a large Bay lies a little Island call'd Damsey with a Holm near it as large as it self To the North North-West lies Rousa about six Miles long but very hilly and ill inhabited Betwixt it and the Mainland lies Inhallo and towards Kirkwall lies Wyre and Gairsa small but profitable Islands North from Kirkwall at eight Miles distance is Eglesha near three Miles in length very pleasant and fertile having a safe Road for Ships betwixt it and Wyre In this Isle there is a little handsome Church where it is said that Saint Magnus the Patron of this Country lies Bury'd To the North of Eglesha is Westra seven Miles long pleasant fertile and well inhabited There is in it a convenient Harbour for Ships at Piriwa At the East of it lies Faira call'd for distinction Faira by North and to the North and by East is Papa-Westra a pleasant Isle three Miles in length famous in this Country for Saint Fredwell's Chapel and Lake of which many ridiculous things are reported by the Vulgar All these Islands are indifferently fruitful well stor'd with Fields of Corn and Herds of Cattle and abound with Rabbits and the greatest plenty of Muir-fowl and Plover that there is any where but have no Hares or Partridges The chief products of this Country and which are Exported yearly by the Merchant are Butter Tallow Hides Barley Malt Oatmeal Fish Salted Beef Pork Rabbit-skins Otter-skins white Salt Stuffs Stockings Wool Hams Writing-Pens Downs Feathers c. A South-East and North-West Moon causeth high Water throughout all this Country CHAP. II. Of the Plants growing naturally in Orkney Of those Beans call'd the Molucca Beans thrown in there A Description of a strange Fish taken in Sanda An Account of their Land and Sea-shells Of their Mines Of some exotick Fowls driven in there and some other effects of violent Storms Of their Lakes and Locks I Did not find