little Mountaine The houses are vniformely and very fairely built of free-storie hauing the first vpper roomes of the houses cast out towards the streetes and supported with arches vnder which they walke drie in the greatest raine Round about this little Mountaine the Citizens haue their gardens from the fall of the same to the lowest Valleyes and vpon the South-East by South is a most faire Church and very pleasant for the light somnesse thereof and on euery side there is a pleasant place for walking On the South side without the walles the Riuer Arba runnes from the West to the East and is passed by a bridge at the East ende of the Citie whence it turneth towards the North and so makes the Citie almost an Iland Here I paied fourteene batzen for my supper and horsemeate The fourth day in the morning I rode three miles in sixe houres space through fruitfull fieldes of Corne and pasture to Solothurn And by the way I obserued a monument of the English defeated by the Sweitzers with this in scription in Dutch Ritterlich erschlagen die English gùckler Anno 1425 arme Iucke That is The English Iuglers Knightly beaten in the yeere 1425 poore Knaues The English Histories make no mention of any warre with the Sweitzers Semler a Sweitzer Historian in his first booke fifty fourth leafe writes that Leopold Duke of Austria drew the English against the Sweitzers and that they did much hurt by wasting the Territories aswell of Austria as of Sweitzerland but that they being ouercome in some battels did after the wasting of these Countries returne home in the yeere 1376 and this he calles the first English warre Also Semler in his first booke the leafe 273 writes that the English as it seemes called from the French warre did at the instance of Duke Leopold besiege Strassburg in the yeere 1365 but the Emperor Charles the fourth comming with an armie against them that they retired But neither doe the words of Semler agree since he calles the first attempt the first English warre and after mentions another of former time neither doe the yeeres set downe by Semler agree with the yeeres of this monument neither seemes it by the French Histories that the English had any leasure to make warre vpon the Sweitzers in the yeere 1365 and lesse in the yeere 1376. To conclude it appeares aswell by the English as French Histories that the English Conquerours in France had so weightie a warre lying there vpon them in the yeere 1425 set downe in this monument as it is not credible they could at that time turne their forces any other way Only the most approued French Writers witnes that the English and French hauing made a truce for eighteene moneths in the yeere 1443 it seemed good to the leaders on both sides that the souldiers hating rest and peace should be drawne out to some forraine warre and that the English seruing vnder Lewis the Dolphin of France the said Lewis in the yeere 1444 making warre vpon the Sweitzers killed therein 4000 of them but the victorie was so bloudy of this battell fought in the territorie of Bazel as he that had the victorie lost some 5000 men of his owne and that the Emperour Frederick the third comming against him he drew his men backe For my part I leaue the credit of this monument to be tried by the consent of Historians and returne to my iourney The fifth day in the morning I rode foure miles to the Towne Ottmersea and in the afternoone through a stony Plaine of Corne and some Woods I rode foure miles to Besa The sixth day in the morning I rode fiue miles through the like Plaine to Gerzen and in the after-noone through a woody heath Plaine and towards my iournies end through fruitfull fields of Corne I rode foure miles to Strassburg And in all this iourney I payed about seuen batzen for each meale From Solothurne to Strassburg some reckon senentene miles others twenty two miles for the Dutch reckon the miles diuersly according to the length of them in their owne Countrey and in these parts they vse to distinguish their iournies by howers riding not by miles Not farre from the foresaid Towne Besa lies the Citie Bazell which I haue described in my former iourney through these parts But to gratifie those who loue to search antiquities giue me leaue to say that Augusta Rauracorum so called for distinction from Augusta Vindelicorum a Citie of great antiquitie and at this day become a poore Village lies distant from Bazell some mile towards the Mountaine Iura and that neere this ancient Citie are many old monuments of the Romans and many buildings vnder the earth which my selfe being lesse curious did not see and that the Husbandmen there digged vp lately a coyne of gold and sold it for copper which was after valued at nine Crownes of the old Romans I say nothing of Strassburg which I haue in the foresaid place formerly described onely I will say that I had the good fortune there to find a French Gentleman the Gouernour of Monwick with his traine in whose company I rode thither 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 a fruitfull Plaine of Corne foure miles to Sauerne in which Citie the Papisticall Chanons of Strassburg haue long fortified themselues vnder the protection of the Duke of Loraine against their Lords the Senators of Strassburg and haue appropriated to themselues great part of the reuenewes of that Bishoppricke lying vnder their power After dinner I rode three miles through Hilles yet couered with snow to Villa Noua Concerning my expences I spent each day little lesse then a French Crowne namely two franckes for my supper and commonly three French soulz for my breake-fast and one franck for my horsemeate The second day I rode one mile to the confines of the Empire and the Dukedome of Loraine and some three miles further to Monwick where so much salt is made as the Duke of Loraine yeerely receiues sixty thousand French Crownes for the same The third day through a dyrtie way and fruitfull fieldes of Corne I rode fiue miles to the Citie Nanzi where the Duke of Loraine keepes his Court and when I was entring the Gate the Captaine of the Guard drew towards mee to know my name and Countrie I not ignorant that the Family of Loraine vsurping great power in France vnder the pretence to defend the Roman Religion bare no good will to the English at that time answered that I was a Polonian hee inquired many things of the Kingdome King and Queene of Poland and perceiuing that I answered him directly hee whispered something with some chiefe men of the Guard about my confidence and so turning againe to me bad me lift vp my hand for so the French vse to take othes I was much affraid lest I should bee forced vpon this oath to confesse my Countrey which I had dissembled but when I demaunded the cause hee told mee
higher and higher towards the West and consists especially of one broad and very faire street which is the greatest part and sole ornament thereof the rest of the side streetes and allies being of poore building and inhabited with very poore people and this length from the East to the West is about a mile whereas the bredth of the City from the North to the South is narrow and cannot be halfe a mile At the furthest end towards the West is a very strong Castle which the Scots hold vnexpugnable Camden saith this Castle was of old called by the Britaines Castle meyned agnea by the Scots The Castle of the Maids or Virgines of certaine Virgines kept there for the Kings of the Picts and by Ptolomy the winged Castle And from this Castle towards the West is a most steepe Rocke pointed on the highest top out of which this Castle is cut But on the North South sides without the wals lie plaine and fruitfull fields of Corne. In the midst of the foresaid faire streete the Cathedrall Church is built which is large and lightsome but little stately for the building and nothing at all for the beauty and ornament In this Church the Kings seate is built some few staires high of wood and leaning vpon the pillar next to the Pulpit And opposite to the same is another seat very like it in which the incontinent vse to stand and doe pennance and some few weekes past a Gentleman being a stranger and taking it for a place wherein Men of better quality vsed to sit boldly entred the same in Sermon time till he was driuen away with the profuse laughter of the common sort to the disturbance of the whole Congregation The houses are built of vnpolished stone and in the faire streete good part of them is of free stone which in that broade streete would make a faire shew but that the outsides of them are faced with wooden galleries built vpon the second story of the houses yet these galleries giue the owners a faire and pleasant prospect into the said faire and broad street when they sit or stand in the same The wals of the City are built of little and vnpolished stones and seeme ancient but are very narrow and in some places exceeding low in other ruiued From Edenborow there is a ditch of water yet not running from the Inland but rising ofsprings which is carried to Lethe and so to the Sea Lethe is seated vpon a creek of the Sea called the Frith some mile from Edenborow and hath a most commodious and large Hauen When Monsieur Dessy a Frenchman did fortifie Lethe for the strength of Edenborow it began of a base Village to grow to a Towne And when the French King Francis the second had married Mary Queene of the Scots againe the French who now had in hope deuoured the possession of that Kingdome and in the yeere 1560. began to aime at the conquest of England more strongly fortified this Towne of Lethe but Elizabeth Queene of England called to the succour of the Lords of Scotland against these Frenchmen called in by the Queene soone effected that the French returned into their Countrey and these fortifications were demolished Erom Leth I crossed ouer the Frith which ebs and flowes as high as Striuelin to the Village King-korn being eight miles distant and seated in the Region or Country called Fife which is a Peninsule that is almost an Iland lying betweene two creekes of the Sea called Frith and Taye and the Land yeelds corne and pasture and seacoales as the Seas no lesse plentifully yeeld among other fish store of oysters shel fishes and this Countrey is populous and full of Noblemens and Gentlemens dwellings commonly compassed with little groues though trees are so rare in those parts as I remember not to haue seene one wood From the said Village King-korn I rode ten very long miles to Falkeland then the Kings House for hunting but of old belonging to the Earles of Fife where I did gladly see I ames the sixth King of the Scots at that time lying there to follow the pastimes of hunting and hawking for which this ground is much commended but the Pallace was of old building and almost ready to fall hauing nothing in it remarkeable I thought to haue ridden from hence to Saint Andrewes a City seated in Fife and well known as an Vniuersity and the seate of the Archbishop But this iourney being hindred I wil onely say that the Bishop of Saint Andrewes at the intercession of the King of Scotland Iames the third was by the Pope first made Primate of all Scotland the same Bishop and all other Bishops of that Kingdome hauing formerly to that day beene consecrated and confirmed by the Archbishop of Yorke in England Likewise I purposed to take my iourney as farre as Striuelin where the King of the Scots hath a strong Castle built vpon the front of a steepe Rocke which King Iames the sixth since adorned with many buildings and the same hath for long time beene committed to the keeping of the Lords of Eriskin who likewise vse to haue the keeping of the Prince of Scotland being vnder yeeres And from thence I purposed to returne to Edenborow but some occasions of vnexpected businesse recalled me speedily into England so as I returned presently to Edenborow and thence to Barwicke the same way I came I adde for passengers instruction that they who desire to visit the other Counties of England and Ireland may passe from Edenborow to Carlile chiefe City of Comberland in England and so betweene the East parts of Lancashire and the West parts of Yorke and then through Darbyshire Nottinghamshire Warwickeshire Staffordshire and Chesshire may take their iourney to the City Westchester whence they shall haue commodity to passe the Sea to Dablin in Ireland and while they expect this passage they may make a cursory iourney into Flintshire and Caernaruenshire in Northwales to see the antiquities thereof or otherwise may goe directly to Holy Head and thence make a shorter cut to Dublyn in Ireland From Dublyn they may passe to see the Cities of the Prouince Mounster whence they may commodiously passe to the South parts of Wales and there especially see the antiquities of Merlyn and so taking their iourney to the West parts of England may search the antiquities of these seuerall Counties and easily find commoditie to passeinto the West parts of France And all this circuit beginning at London may with ordinary fauourable winds according to the season of the yeere be easily made from the beginning of March to the end of September Alwaies I professe onely to prescribe this course to such as are curious to search all the famous monuments and antiquities of England mentioned in Camdens compleat description thereof CHAP. VI. Of the manner to exchange Moneys into forraine parts and the diuers moneys of diuers parts together with the diuers measures of miles in sundry Nations most necessary
Lord Deputies discretion But their Lordships aduised warily to obserue and know such as offered submission because it had alwaies been the Arch-traitors practise to let slip such as he could not defend that they might saue their goods and liue vpon her Maiestie without any intent to doe her seruice Lastly whereas the Lord of Dunkellin by his letters in regard of some restrictions whereby hee was disabled to serue her Maiestie as he desired had made offer to resigne the gouernement he had in the Prouince of Connaght And forasmuch as the Queene was alwaies vnwilling to imploy any great Lord in his owne Countrie yet finding him placed in that gouernement by the Earle of Essex had still continued him there only out of her speciall fauor to him And for that of late some insolencies had bin offered to Companies of the English by the old Earle of Clanrieards soldiers in her Maiesties pay Their Lordships signified that the Queenes pleasure was to accept the Lord of Dunkellins resignation in the fairest maner and withall carefull tendering of his honour aduising the Lord Deputie to inuite him to accompany his Lordship and serue in the Army vnder him And Sir Arthur Sauage then a Colonel of the Army and lying with his Company at Athlone was appointed prouisionall Gouernour of the Prouince of Connaght except the Lord Deputie knew some sufficient cause to the contrary The Lord Deputy hauing attained his end of drawing the Army into the North by the safe landing and setling of Loughfoyle Garrison in the farthest North of Ireland on Tyrones backe His Lordship the twentie eight of May hearing that Tyrone had drawne backe his men two miles further into the fastnesse and being informed that the Pace of the Moyrye by reason of much wet lately fallen and the Rebels breaking of the causey was hard to passe returned by Carlingford pace to Dundalke and so to Dublin where he vnderstood that the Rebels had in his absence burned the Pale though he left for defence of it 2000 foot and 175 horse in Lemster but the damage was not answerable to the clamour for many priuate men haue in England sustained greater losse by casuall fire in time of peace then the whole Pale had done by the enemies burning in warre and many priuate men in England haue in one yeere lost more cattel by a rot then the Pale lost by this spoyling of the rebels of which they lamentably complained Besides that indeede this burning and spoyling of the very Pale did further the greatest end of finishing the warres no way so likely to be brought to an end as by a generall famine Giue me leaue to digresse a little to one of the fatall periods of Robert the noble Earle of Essex his tragedy and the last but one which was his death whereof the following relation was sent into Ireland The fifth of Iune there assembled at Yorke-house in London about the hearing of my Lord of Essex his cause eighteene Commissioners viz. my Lord of Canterburie Lord Keeper Lord Treasurer Lord Admi Lords of Worcester Shrewsbury Cumberland Huntington Darby Zouch Mast. Comptroller Master Secretarie Sir Ihon Fortescu Lord Popham Chiefe Iustice Lord Anderson Chiefe Iustice of the common Pleas Lord Perian Chiefe Baron of the Exchequer Iustices Gaudy and Walmesley They sate from eight of the clock in the morning till very neere nine at night all at a long table in chaires At the Earles comming in none of the Commissioners stirred cap or gaue any signe of curtesie He kneeled at the vpper end of the Table and a good while without a cushion At length my Lord of Canterbury moued my Lord Treasurer and they ioyntly my Lord Keeper and Lord Admirall that sat ouer against them then was he permitted a cushion yet still was suffered to kneele till the Queenes Sergeants speech was ended when by the consent of the Lords he was permitted to stand vp and after vpon my Lord of Canterburies motion to haue a stoole The manner of proceeding was this My Lord Keeper first deliuered the cause of the assembly and then willed the Queenes Counsaile at Law viz Sergeant Attorney Solicitor and Master Bacon to informe against him The Sergeant began and his speech was not long onely a preface as it were to the accusations The summe of it was to declare the Queenes Princely care and prouision for the warres of Ireland and also her gratious dealing with the Earle before he went in discharging ten thousand pound of his debts and giuing him almost so much more to buy him horses and prouide himself and especially in her proceedings in this cause when as after so great occasion of offence as the consumption of a royall Army fruitlesse wasting thirty hundred thousand 〈◊〉 treasure contempt and disobedience to her expresse commandement she notwithstanding was content to be so mercifull towards him as not to proceede against him in any of her Courts of Iustice but only in this priuate sort by way of mercy and fauour After him the Attorney began whose speech contained the body and substance of the accusation it was very sharp stinging for besides the man faults of contempt and disobedience where with hee charged him he did also shrewdly inferre a dangerous disposition and purpose which was by many rhetoricall amplifications agrauated to the full he diuided his speech into three parts Quomodo ingressus Quomodo progressus Quomodo regressus In the ingresse hee obserued how large a Commission he stood vpon such a one as neuer any man had the like before namely that he might haue authoritie to pardon all Traytors of himselfe yea to pardon treason committed against her Maiesties owne person and that he might mannage the warres by himself without being tied to the aduice of the Counsell of Ireland which clause hee said was granted that he might at first proceede in the Northerne iourny which the Counsell of Ireland whose lands and liuings lay in the South might perhaps hinder and labor to diuert him to the safeguard of themselues In the other two parts of his speech were contained fiue speciall crimes wherwith the Earle was charged viz. His making the Earle of Southampton Generall of the Horse 2. His going to Lemster and Mounster when he should haue gone to Vlster 3. His making so many Knights 4. His conference with Tyrone 5. His returne out of Ireland contrary to her Maiesties command These all sauing the fourth were recited by the Lords in their censures as the crimes for which he was censured by them The first was amplified for that he did it contrary to her Maiesties mind plainely signified vnto him in England that hee increased that offence by continuing him in that office stil when her Maiesty by letters had expressely commanded him to displace him and thirdly for that he wrote a very bold presumptuous letter to her Maiesty in excuse of that offence which letter was afterwards read The second point of his Southerne iourny was agrauated
vpward the onely meanes by which they were to liue and to keepe their Bonaghts or hired souldiers It seemed incredible that by so barbarous inhabitants the ground should be so manured the fields so orderly fenced the Townes so frequently inhabited and the high waies and paths so well beaten as the Lord Deputy here found them The reason whereof was that the Queenes forces during these warres neuer till then came among them The Lord Deputy in his returne the first day passed into another part of the Country with the foot alone for the horse not able to passe were sent about so as the rebels had the aduantage they most desire to fight with our foot without assistance of horse yet all the rebels of Lemster here gathered together and fighting vpon their naturall ground had beene so beaten as that they suffred our men to passe without a blow That night eight heads were brought to the Lord Deputy and with them one Lenagh a famous rebell taken aliue who was presently hanged on the same tree where he plotted all his villanies Sir Oliuer Lambert with some troopes marched into Donnell Spagniahs Countrey where he tooke 1000. Cowes 500. Garons great store of sheepe and killed twenty rebels at the first entry besides many killed in a fight which the rebels after maintained all the day and part of the night Sir Arthur Sauage comming out of Connaght to meet the Lord Deputy fought long with the Rebels spoiled the Countrey and tooke a great prey but could not passe to his Lordship In the Lord Deputies returne out of Leax Redmond Keating and the chiefe of the Septs of the Kellies and Lalors were receiued into her Maiesties protection vpon condition to set at liberty the Earle of Ormonds pledges in their hands By this time his Lordship had receiued out of England gracious allowance of his former Northerne iourney with her Maiesties promise to reinforce the Army with two thousand foote and two hundred horse against the next iourney into those parts requiring him not to giue any one man the commaund of both horse and foote and whereas all Companies were of two hundred or one hundred fiftie aduising to distribute some part into lesse numbers that more Gentlemen might be satisfied with commaunds with the onely increase of some chiefe officers pay and that his Lordship would be sparing to giue pasports for any to come into England to trouble her Maiestie with sutes and most of all not to suffer able men to returne out of Ireland as they daily did with their Captaines pasportes And to the end the Commaunders might not be idle her Maiestie required that all seruices done by them might be certified monethly into England About this time the Earle of Southampton leauing the warres of Ireland sayled into England This Summers seruice made it appeare that iourneys with a great Army did not so much good as Garrisons lying vpon the Rebels which vpon any sudden seruice might easily bee drawne together in competent numbers and in the meane time kept the Rebels at home from seconding one another The Lord Deputy by his letters during the foresaid iourny explained to the Lords in England that he had been most carefull not to increase her Maiesties charge in any thing the want whereof would not haue made the rest of her great expence to be vnprofitable and to the end the Commaunders might not be thought to lye idle besides the good fortune that none of them had receiued any blow hee particularly remembred many preyes taken and seruices done and for the chiefe Garrisons on the North borders aduertised that Sir Arthur Chichester had layde all the Countrie waste within twenty miles of Carickfergus that Sir Samuel Bagnol at the Newry had done the like that Sir Richard Moryson at Dundalke had banished Turlough Mac Henry out of the Fuze into Monaghan and yet the two last with most part of their Garisons had bin part of the Army in all former iournies The twentie sixe of August his Lordship returned from this iourney of Leax to Dublin and there receiued aduertisement that her Maiestie could not refuse to heare the complaints of the Pale by the Deputies formerly mentioned to bee sent ouer though she had sharpely rebuked them that they did not first complaine to the Lord Deputie which they excused by experience that like complaints in Ireland had euer been vaine The chiefe complaints were these that the forces that should lye vpon the borders neare the Rebels were lodged vpon them That the fetching of one barrell of powder was often made a sufficient reason to spoyle them by a company of horse and foote sent to conuoy it That the Clarkeship of the Counsell was sold and then executed by a Deputie who for euery small petition tooke great fees That the spirituall liuings were giuen to ignorant and idle persons being the chiefe cause of this rebellion scarce any Church standing for sixtie miles betweene Dublin and Athlone That they were spoyled as much by the Army as Rebels no souldier nor Captaine being punished nor any order giuen for remedie taking effect That priuate Captaines gaue pasportes to run awaies and her Maiestie was deceiued by false Musters so as the forces were weake to end the warre and they were spoyled as much as if the number were full requiring that some Gentlemen of the Pale might be ioyned with the Commissaries in taking the musters of adiacent Garrisons In the same letter her Maiestie commaunded the Lord Deputy to signifie to Sir Arthur O Neale that she purposed to create him Earle of Tyrone and giue him a portion of lands fit for an Earledome And for Tyrone that the Lord Deputy should proclaime him Traytor with promise of two thousand pound to any should bring him aliue and one thousand pound to him that should bring his head to any of hir Maiesties Fortes or Garrisons Lastly her Maiesty gaue letters of fauour to the Deputies of the Pale directed to the Lord Deputy to whom the complaints were wholly referred it being her Maiesties pleasure that only before him and by him they should be heard and redressed Yet because the Lord Deputie was many waies taxed in these complaints hee did expostulate in his next letters to Master Secretarie that hee should be taxed for those things for which he expected approbation and thankes The wisest Counsels said he are vncertaine and the wisest men vnperfect and what shall I looke for when out of my weakenesse though free from wilfulnesse I shall happen to commit any errour of consequence seeing I am now charged with so many matters and those nothing belonging to me His Lordship added that in his opinion nothing had made the affaires of Ireland more vnprosperous then that the State vsed to heare euery man against and before the chiefe Gouernour so as hee was driuen to let matters goe as they would so as hee might saue himselfe Another discontented letter be wrote to the same effect and to the same
imparted his designes in the present seruice and to the same effect sent a packet by him to Sir Henrie Dockwra Gouernour of Loughfoyle and to them both as also to Sir Richard Moryson being to bee left Gouernour of Lecayle his Lordship gaue Proclamations to be published for establishing the aboue mentioned new coine All this time Arthur Mac Gennis the chiefe of his name Edmond Boy Mac Gennis his Vncle made meanes to be receiued to her Maiesties mercy but could not obtaine the fauour without first doing some seruice This day his Lordship and the Counsell following the Army gaue thirty pound by concordatum to Phelimy Ener Mac Gennis for some special seruices and Balinthor a strong Castle was taken by our men with diuers cowes and other goods sixe of the Ward being killed and the rest swimming awny His Lordship hauing placed Sir Richard Moryson with fiue hundred foote and fifty horse vnder his command to gouerne Lecayle which had their residency at Downe did march backe on the nineteenth day eleuen mile to fiue mile Church neere the Newry passing one pace exceeding strong by nature and plashed with trees which lay at the end of the Plaines of Lecaile and entrance into the woody Mountaines And before the entry of this pace Sir Arthur Chichester hauing receiued two hundred Foote to strengthen his Garrison returned backe to Knockfergue The twentieth day his Lordship marched with his forces three miles to Carickbane lying North ward of the Newrie This day Sir Henrie Dauers lying at Mount Norryes aduertised his Lordship that Tyrone lying in a fastnes and his men neuer venturing vpon the Plaine the souldiers left vnder his command there could not in all this time get any occasion to fight with him whereof they shewed great desire onely the horse often shewing themselues vpon the hilles had kept him beyond Armagh where he with his Creaghts lay feeding some thousands of Cowes Whereupon because his Lordship desired to preserue the grasse neere Armagh for his horse troopes as also to make store of hay there for the Winter following He sent Sir William Godolphin with his Lord ps troope of horse vnder his command to second the forces at Mount Norreys in attempting some seruice vpon Tyrone meaning to draw presently his whole forces thither But in the meane time Sir Francis Staffords Lieutenant of his horse sent by Sir Henrie Dauers to spy the rebels proceedings had passed to the view of Armagh and found that Tyrone had sent backe all his cowes vpon the hearing of his Lordships returne out of Lecayle For which cause and vpon notice that Tyrone had taken a dayes victuals for his men as if he meant to attempt something his Lordship recalled Sir William ' Godolphin with his troope The one and twentieth day his Lordship lay still in regard that for difficultie of getting Garrous that is carriage Iades or by some negligence victuals were not according to his former directions put into Mount Norreys to which place hee purposed to draw with his forces This day three daies bread came to his Lordships forces which in stead of other victuals liued vpon becues And his Lordship writ to Sir Henrie Dauers that according to his daily vse of late daies hee should the next morning earely draw the forces of Mount Norreys towards Armagh and should on the sudden possesse the Abbey there and the Towne whether his Lordship would also draw the Army presently for his second The two and twentieth day his Lordship hauing by extraordinary pay aboue the Queenes price gotten garrons and carrying victuals with him for Mount Norryes and for the Garrison he intended to plant at Armagh marched sixe miles neere to Mount Norryes where Sir Henrie Dauers with that Garrison met him hauing not been able for some difficulties to execute his Lordships former directions From thence his Lordship taking with him the said Garrison marched forward seuen miles and that night incamped a little beyond Armagh where some few rebels shewed themselues braggingly but attempted nothing His Lordship before his returne from Lecayle was purposed to leaue such forces at Mount Norryes as might plant the Garrison at Armagh when they found opportunity but lest they should haue been hindred by a greater force his Lordship rather then to returne towards the Pale for the attending there of the generall Hoasting where his Army should haue spent the same victuals it now did was resolued himselfe in person to plant it imagining that Tyrone not looking for him till the generall hoasting would not haue his whole forces with him nor by that reason and an opinion and feare that his Lordship intended to march further into Tyrone would haue any minde to follow his Lordship or hinder his retreate when hee should haue weakened his forces by that Plantation Therefore the three and twentieth day his Lordship making a shew to draw from his campe beyond Armagh towards Blackewater caused his forces to make a stand for his retreat and so himselfe with his followers and seruants rode more then a mile forward to view the way to Blackewater Fort and the place of the famous Blackewater defeat vnder the Marshall Bagnols conduct and hauing passed a pace without one shot made at his troope he returned to his forces and marching backe he left a garrison of seuen hundred fifty foote and one hundred horse at the Abbey of Armagh vnder the command of Sir Henry Dauers and that night marched with the rest neere to Moūt Norreys where he encamped hauing in this march from Armagh viewed the Foard where Generall Norries formerly was hurt making a stand with his horse to secure his foot distressed by Tyrones charge The foure and twenty his Lotdship leauing at Mount Norries the foot and horse of that garrison marched himselfe with 1250 foot and 150 horse sixe miles to 〈◊〉 being two miles short of the Newry This was a hill naturally and artificially ofold sortified where in regard of the weakenes of his forces he encamped purposing there to attend and solicite the hastning to send to him from the Pale all the meanes hee expected to furnish him for his intended iourny to build the demolished Fort of Blackwater Here his Lordships Army was mustered and was by Pole Captaines and Officers 87. Targets 112. Pykes 291. Muskets 125. Calliuers 635. In all 1250. Whereof besides Captaines and Officers English 593. Irish the rest Wanting Swords 191. The six and twenty day his Lordship sent victuals to the garrisons at Mount Norreis and at Armagh The twenty nine day his Lordship receiued aducrtisement that Sir H. Dauers drawing out the garrison of Armagh into the fastnes where Brian mac Art lay with his Cattle had killed diuers of his men taken many horses from him and spoiled much of his baggage besides three hundred Cowes which he had taken from Mac Gennis And the same day his Lordship receiued the examinations of certain Waterford Marriners who testified that being at the Groyne they were pressed
tooke my iourney in the afternoone to Witteberg and came that night to Teben a Village foure miles distant through a Wood so large as wee could not passe it in two houres beyond which the ground was barren till wee passed the Riuer Elue which runneth by Witteberg all the length of it from the East to the West but is somewhat distant from the Towne The next day we passed foure miles to Witteberg which hath his name of Wittekindus the first Christian Duke of Saxony and is seated in a plaine sandy ground hauing on the North Hils planted with Vines yeelding a sower grape plentifully yet they make no wine thereof One streete lies the whole length of the Towne being all the beautie thereof and in the midst of this street is the Cathedrall Church and a faire market place in which the Senate house is built and neere the West gate is the Dukes Church It is prouerbially said that a man shall meet nothing at Witteberg but whores students and swine to which purpose they haue these two Verses Ni Witeberga sues ni plurima scorta teneret Ni pubem Phoebi quaeso quid esset ibi Had Witeberg no swine if no whores were Nor Phoebus traine I pray you what is there Whence may be gathered that the Citizens haue small trafficke liuing only vpon the Schollers and that the streets must needs be filthy In the study of Doctor Wisinbechius this inscription is in Latine Here stood the bed in which Luther gently died See how much they attribute to Luther for this is not the place where hee died neither was there any bed yet suffer they not the least memory of him to be blotted out Luther was borne at Isleb in the yere 1483 certainly died there in the house of Count Mansfield where after supper the seuenteenth of February he fell into his vsuall sickenesse namely the stopping of humors in the Orifice of his belly and died thereupon at fiue of the clocke in the morning the eighteenth of February in the yeere 1546. the said Count and his Countesse and many other being present and receiuing great comfort from his last exhortations yet from his sudden death the malitious Iesuits tooke occasion to slander him as if he died drunken that by aspersions on his life and death they might slander the reformation of Religion which he first began These men after their manner being to coniure an vncleane spirit out of a man in Prage gaue out that he was free from this spirit for the time that Luther died and that when hee returned they examined him where hee had beene that time and the spirit should answere that hee had attended Luther Phillip Melancthon borne in the yeere 1497. died 1560. and both these famous men were buried and haue their Monuments in the Dukes Church at Witteberg which is said to be like that of Hierusalem and in that both of them are round I will not deny it but I dare say they differ in this that Hierusalem Church hath the Chauncell in the middest with Allies to goe round about it whereas the Chancell of this Church is at the East end of it The Wittebergers tell many things of Luther which seeme fabulous among other things they shew an aspersion of inke cast by the Diuell when he tempted Luther vpon the wall in S. Augustines Colledge Besides they shew a house wherein Doctor Faustus a famous coniurer dwelt They say that this Doctor liued there about the yeere 1500. and had a tree all blasted and burnt in the adioyning Wood where hee practised his Magick Art and that hee died or rather was fetched by the Diuell in a Village neere the Towne I did see the tree so burnt but walking at leasure through all the Villages adioyning I could neuer heare any memory of his end Not farre from the City there is a mountaine called the Mount of Apollo which then as of old abounded with medicinable herbes In a Village neere the Towne there be yet many tokens that the Emperour Charles the fifth encamped there I liued at Witteberg the rest of this summer where I paied a Gulden weekely for my diet and beere which they account apart and for my chamber after the rate of tenne Guldens by the yeare I heare that since all things are dearer the Schollers vsing to pay each weeke a Dollor for their diet and a Dollor for chamber and washing Hence I tooke my iourney to Friburge that I might see the funerall of Christianus the Elector Three of vs hired a Coach all this iourney for a Dollor each day with condition that we should pay for the meat of the horses and of the coach-man which cost as much more And this we paied because we had freedome to leaue the coach at our pleasure though we returned with it to Leipzig to which if we would haue tied our selues we might haue had the coach for halfe a Dollor a day The first day wee went sixe miles to Torge through sandy fields yeelding corne and we dined at Belgar a Village where each man paied fiue grosh for his dinner and by the way they shewed vs a Village called Itzan where Luther made his first Sermons of reformation Torge is a faire City of Misen of a round forme falling each way from a mountaine and seated on the West side of Elue It hath a stately Castle belonging to the Elector Duke of Saxony who is Lord of Leipzig Witteberg and all the Cities we shall passe in this iourney This Castle is washed with the Riuer Elue and was built by Iohn Fredricke Elector in the yeere 1535. It hath a winding way or plaine staire by which a horse may easily goe to the top of the Castle the passage being so plaine as the ascent can scarcely be discerned The Hall Chambers and Galleries of this Castle are very faire and beautifull and adorned with artificiall pictures among which one of a boy presenting flowers is fairer then the rest Also there is a picture on the wall of one Laurence Weydenberg a Sweitzer made in the twentieth yeere of his age in the yeere 1531 shewing that he was nine foot high In the Church there is a Monument of Katherine a Nunne which died 1552. and was wife vnto Luther The Village Milburg is within a mile of this City in the way to Dresden where the Elector Fredericke was taken prisone by Charles the fifth in the Protestants warre The lake neere the City is a mile in circuit for the fishing whereof the Citizens pay 500. guldens yeerely to the Elector of Saxony and they fish it once in three yeeres and sell the fish for some 5000. guldens The beare of Torge is much esteemed through all Misen whereof they sell such quantity abroad as ten water-mils besides wind-mils scarcely serue the towne for this purpose From Torge we went six miles to Misen in our Coach hired as aforesaid and we dined each man for fiue grosh in the
village Starres and wee passed through goodly cornehils and faire woods of firre and birtch The City Misen is round in forme and almost all the houses are built on the falling sides of Mountaines which compassing all the City open towards the East where Elue runneth by Duke Fredericke surnamed The wise and Duke George surnamed papisticall are buried in the Cathedrall Church Here I paid six grosh euery meale The City is subiect to the Duke of Saxony hauing the same name with the whole Countrey in which it lieth Hence wee went three miles to Dresden in a Coach hired as aforesaid and passed through sandy and stony Hils some fruitfull vallies of corne and two Woods of firre whereof there bee many neere Dresden whither being come I paied sixe grosh for my dinner This City of Dresden is very faire and strongly fortified in which the Elector of Saxony keepes his Court hauing beene forty yeeres past onely a village When the first stone of the wals was laid there were hidden a siluer cup guilded a Booke of the Lawes another of the coynes and three glasses filled with wine the Ceremonies being performed with all kind of Musicke and solemnity The like Ceremony was vsed when they laid the first stone of the stable The City is of a round forme seated in a Plaine running betweene two Mountaines but some what distant and the houses are faire built of free stone foure or fiue roofes high whereof the highest roofe after the Italian fashion is little raised in steepnesse so that the tops of the houses appeare not ouer the walles excepting the Electors Castle built betwixt the North and West side and the Church Tower built betweene the West and East side In this Tower the watchmen dwell who in the day time giue notice by Flags hung out what number of foot or horse are comming towards the Towne To which Tower they ascend by two hundred seuenty staires and in the top two Demiculuerins are planted Wee entred on the East side through old Dresden being walled about and so passed the Elue compassing the walles of new Dresden on the East side by a Bridge of stone hauing seuenteene arches vnder which halfe the ground is not couered with water except it be with a floud Vpon the Bridge we passed three gates and at the end entred the City by the fourth where the garrison Souldiers write the names of those that come in and lead them to the Innes where the Hostes againe take their names The City hath but two little Suburbs The Citizens were then as busie as Bees in fortifying the City which the Elector then made very strong The ground riseth on all sides towards the Towne and the new City hath foure Gates Welsh-thore Siegeld-thore New-thore and Salomons-thore and is compassed with two walles betweene which round about there is a garden from which men may ascend or descend to it at each Gate Ouer the outward wall there is a couered or close Gallery priuate to the Elector who therein may compasse the Towne vnseene Hee hath vsed the best wits of Germany and Italy in this fortification wherein he hath spared no cost The walles are high and broad of earth whose foundation is of stone and they are on all sides furnished with great Artillery yea in that time of peace the streets were shut with iron chaines at eating times and all night The Electors stable is by much the fairest that euer I saw which I will briefly describe In the first Court there is a Horse-bath into which they may bring as much or little water as they list and it hath 22. pillars in each whereof diuers Armes of the Duke are grauen according to the diuers families whose Armes he giues The same Court serues for a Tilting-yard and all exercises of Horse-manship and there is also the Horse-leaches shop so well furnished as if it belonged to a rich Apothecary The building of the stable is foure square but the side towards the Dukes Pallace is all taken vp with two gates and a little Court yard which takes vp halfe this side and round about the same are little cuboords peculiar to the horsemen in which they dispose all the furniture fit for riding The other three sides of the quadrangle contained some 136. choise and rare Horses hauing onely two other gates leading into the Cities market place opposite to those gates towards the Court. These horses are all of forraine Countries for there is another stable for Dutch horses and among these chiefe horses one named Michael Schatz that is Michaell the Treasure was said to be of wonderfull swiftnesse before each horses nose was a glasse window with a curtaine of greene cloth to be drawne at pleasure each horse was couered with a red mantle the racke was of iron the manger of copper at the buttocke of each horse was a pillar of wood which had a brasen shield where by the turning of a pipe he was watered and in this piller was a cuboord to lay vp the horses combe and like necessaries and aboue the backe of each horse hung his bridleand saddle so as the horses might as it were in a moment be furnished Aboue this stable is a gallery on one side adorned with the statuaes of horses their riders with their complete Armours fifty in number besides many Armours lying by the wals On the other side is a gallery hauing forty like statuaes thirty six sledges which they vse in Misen not only to iourney in time of snow but also for festiuall pompes For in those Cities especially at Shrouetide and when much snow falleth they vse to sit vpon sledges drawne with a horse furnished with many bels at the foote of which sledge they many times place their Mistresses and if in running or sudden turning the rider or his Mistresse slip or take a fall it is held a great disgrace to the rider Some of these sledges are very sumptuous as of vnpurified siluer as it comes from the Mines others are fairely couered with velvet and like stuffes Aboue the forepart of the stable towards the market place are the chambers wherein the Elector feasts with Ambassadors In the window of the first chamber or stoue being a bay window towards the street is a round table of marble with many inscriptions perswading temperance such as are these Aut nulla Ebrietas aut tanta sit vt tibi cur as Demat. Be not drunken in youth or age Or no more then may cares asswage Againe Plures crapula quam ensis Gluttony kils more then the sword Yet I dare say that notwithstanding all these good precepts few or none euer rose or rather were not carried as vnable to goe from that table Twelue little marble chaires belong to this table and the pauement of the roome is marble and close by the table there is a Rocke curiously carued with images of fishes and creeping things This Rocke putteth forth many sharpe pinacles of stone vpon which the
water out of England they could neuer make their beere so much esteemed as the English which indeed is much bettered by the carriage ouer sea to these parts Hence I went to Sluse so called of the damme to let waters in and out and came thither in two houres paying for my waggon thirteene stiuers which I hired alone for if I had light vpon company we should haue paied no more betweene vs. Hence I passed the Riuer Mase where it falleth into the sea and came to Brill my selfe and two others paying twelue stiuers for our passage but the barke being presently to returne and therefore not entring the Port set vs on land neere the Towne whether we walked on foot Brill is a fortified Towne laid in pledge to Queene Elizabeth for money she lent the States and it was then kept by foure English Companies paid by the Queene vnder the gouernment of the Lord Burrowes The Towne is seated in an Iland which was said to bee absolute of it selfe neither belonging to Zealand nor Holland On the North side the Riuer Mase runneth by On the East side are corne fieldes and the Riuer somewhat more distant On the South side are corne fields On the West side are corne fields and the maine Sea little distant Here I paied for my supper and dinner twenty stiuers and for a pot of wine eighteene stiuers From hence I returned by water to Roterodam in Holland and paied for my passage three stiuers In the mouth of the Riuer of Roterodam lies the City Arseldipig and another called Delphs-Ile being the Hauen of Delph which was then a pleasant Village but growing to a City and hauing beene lately burnt by fire was fairely rebuilded Roterodam lies in length from the East to the West The Hauen is on the South side being then full of great ships vpon which side it lay open without walles hauing many faire houses and a sweet walke vpon the banke of the water Neither is it fortified on the sides towards the land nor seemed to mee able to beare a siege hauing low walles on the North and East sides yet compassed with broad ditches The street Hoch-street is faire and large extending it selfe all the length of the Citie and lying so as from the gate at the one end you may see the gate at the other end and in this street is the Senate house In the market place toward the West is the statua of Erasmus being made of wood for the Spaniards brake downe that which was made of stone and the inscription thereof witnesseth that hee was borne at Roterodame the twenty eight of October in the yeere 1467 and died at Bazel the twelfth of Iuly in the yeere 1531. In New-Kirk-street there is the house in vvhich Erasmus was borne vvherein a Taylor dwelled at this time and vpon the vvall thereof these Verses are written AEdibus his natus mundum decorauit Erasmus Artibus ingenuis Religione side The world Erasmus in this poore house borne With Arts Religion Faith did much adorne The same Verses also vvere vvritten in the Flemmish tongue and vpon the vvall vvas the picture of Erasmus Vpon the same West side is the house for exercise of shooting in the Peece and Crosse-bow The vvaters of Roterodam and Delph being neere the sea are more vvholesome then the standing waters within land Heere I lodged at an English-mans house and paied for my supper tenne stiuers for my breakfast two stiuers and for beere betweene meales fiue stiuers by which expence compared vvith that of the Flemmish Innes it is apparant that strangers in their reckonings pay for the intemperate drinking of their Dutch companions From hence I went by sea three miles to Dort in two houres space to which City we might haue gone great part of the way by vvaggon as farre as Helmund but then we must needs haue crossed an Inland sea for the City is seated in an Iland hauing beene of old diuided from the continent of Holland in a great floud The forme of the City resembles a Galley the length whereof lies from the East to the West Wee landed vpon the North side lying vpon the sea where there be two gates but of no strength On the East side is the New gate Reydike and beyond a narrow water lye fenny grounds On the South side the ditch is more narrow yet the sea ebbs and flowes into it and vpon old walles of stone is a conuenient walking place On this side is the gate Spey-port and beyond the ditch lye fenny grounds On the West side is the gate Feld-port and a like walke vpon walles of stone and there is a greater ebbing and flowing of the sea There is a great Church built of bricke and couered with slate being stately built vvith Arched cloysters and there of old the Counts of Holland were consecrated From this part the two fairest streets Reydike-strat and Wein-strat lie windingly towards the North. Turning a little out of the faire street Reydike-strat towards the South lies the house for exercise of shooting in the Peece Crosse-bow and there by is a very pleasant groue vpon the trees vvhereof certaine birds frequent which we call Hearnes vulgarly called Adhearne or Regle and their feathers being of great price there is a great penalty set on them that shall hurt or annoy those birds There is a house vvhich retaines the name of the Emperor Charles the fift and another house for coyning of money for the Counts of Holland vvere vvont to coyne money at Dort as the Counts of Zealand did at Midleburg Betweene the faire streets Reydike-strat and Wein-strat is the Hauen for ships to be passed ouer by bridges and there is a market place and the Senate house vvhich hath a prospect into both these streets The houses are higher built then other where in Holland and seeme to be of greater Antiquity This Citie by priuiledge is the staple of Rhenish vvines vvhich are from hence carried to other Cities so as no imposition being here paied for the same the pot of Rhenish wine is sold for twelue stiuers for which in other places they pay eighteene or twenty stiuers For three meales I paied heere thirty stiuers From hence I vvent by water to the States Campe besieging Getrudenberg and came thither in two houres space but the vvindes being very tempestuous wee saw a boat drowned before vs out of which one man onely escaped by swimming who seemed to me most wretched in that hee ouer-liued his wife and all his children then drowned The besieged City lies in the Prouince of Brabant and the County of Buren being the inheritance of the Prince of Orange by right of his wife and in this Month of Iune it was yeelded to Count Maurice the Spanish Army lying neere but not being able to succour it The Sea lying vpon this part of Brabant was of old firme land ioined to the continent till many villages by diuers floods and seuenteene
Parishes at once by a famous flood were within lesse then 200. yeeres agoe swallowed vp of the Sea and for witnes of this calamity diuers Towers farre distant the one from the other appeare in this Sea and according to the ebbing and flowing more or lesse seene doe alwaies by their sad spectacle put the passengers in mind of that wofull euent And the Hollanders say that these flouds caused the Rheine to change his bed as hereafter I shall shew in the due place From Count Maurice his Campe at Getrudenberg I failed in six houres space to the Iland Plate and at midnight putting forth againe failed in ten houres space to the Iland Tarlot and from thence in three houres space to the City Bergenapzome where we landed By the way we saw one of the aforesaid Towers high aboue the water being a steeple of some parish Church swallowed vp in the said deluge of which there be many like sad remembrances in this Inland sea The channell leading to the City is called Forcemer and hath vpon the banke many strong sorts and in this channell lay a man of warre to defend passengers from the bordering enemy This City is strongly fortified and is sented in Brabant and had many castles of the enemy lying neerert and it was gouerned by a garison of English not in the Queenes but in the States pay as Ostend at that time was whereas Virshing and Brill pledged to the Queen for money wore kept by English Garisons in the Queenes pay and Sir Thomas Morgan was at this time Gouernour of this City At out entrance euery man gaue his nameto the Guard Without the City on the West side many akers of land were drowned when the Prince of Orange as I said let in the waters to driue the Spaniards out of those parts which from that day to this could neuer be dried and gained againe On this side I entered the City where be many poore houses built in forme of a Lutes necke which being added to the City almost of a round forme make the whole City much like vnto a Lute On this side were three strong rauelings and vppon the necke of the said Lute is the Hauen in the channell Forcemer which going no further into the land endeth in a mill made of purpose to keepe the ebbing water so as the ditches may alwaies be full On the North side is the prison not vnpleasant for situation and the English House and the House of the Gouernour which of old belonged to the Count of Brabant Betweene the Gates wouldport and Stephenbergport which are both strongly fortified the Riuer Zome fals into the Towne whereof it hath the name yet the channell being stopped it seemes here a standing water rather then a Riuer Towards the East the City is very strongly fortified and there is the Gate Boskport so called as I thinke of the word Bosco which in the Italian tongue signifies a wood for on this side without the gates were many woods and orchards till they were destroied in the warre On this side is another Raueling of great length and beyond the fortifications lie faire pastures but somewhat couered with waters And from hence wee might see Woudcastle scarce three English miles distant which was then possessed by the Spaniards On the South side is a new fort beyond a strong bulwarke and a very strong counterscarp compassing the City And from hence was of old a most pleasant walke vnder the shade of trees to the old castle some mile distant On this side in a pleasant groue were many such birds as I said to be at Dort vulgarly called Adherne much esteemed for the fethers they beare in their fore head and there is a penalty set on those that hurt or driue them away On this side also is the English Church and vpon this and the East sides the Prince of Parma in camped when hee besieged this City There is in the middest of the City a triangular market place and from the sharpe end thereof towards the West siue rauelings run beyond the wals The houses are built of bricke and seeme to be built of old The Church hath a very high steeple whence the watchmen shew the comming and number of horse-men by hanging out white flagges and of foot by redde All the Villages hereabouts though liuing vnder the Spaniard yet pay contribution to this Garrison lest the souldiers should vpon aduantage breake out and spoile them The Citizens liue of mannall arts and the expences of the Garison From hence I sayled to Midleburge and at one ebbe of the Sea passed in seuen houres space to Der-goese and at another ebbe in foure houres space to Armaren a City of the Iland Walkern belonging to Zealand and I paid for my passage six stiuers From hence in halfe an houre I walked on foot to Midleburge the houses whereof are stately built and very high especially the new City and are all of bricke as be the Cities of Holland and as be the houses of Vlishing but some of these are stately built of free stone yet the streetes are somewhat narrow Here I paid for my supper fiue stiuers in the English House where the Host is onely bound to prouide for the Merchants and such gucsts as they inuite yet many times he admits English Gentlemen both to lodge and eat there The House lies in the street Longdels and howsoeuer the Merchants cat there yet they hier their lodgings scatteringly in the City and refused an Abbey which the Senators offered them to lodge therein perhaps out of feare lest in any ciuill tumult they might more easily be wronged if they should all lie together This City is the Staple of all Merchandise excepting Rhenish wine for which by old priuiledge Dorte is the Staple Therefore French and Spanish Wines are here sold much more cheape then other where because they are free of impost in this place and haue great impositions laid on them being carried out to other Cities The forme of the City is round saue that on the East side the buildings of the new City being vnperfected made it to haue the forme of a halfe Moone though the plot thereof were round Comming from Armuren I entered on this East side by a very faire gate called the New Gate where the water falling into the Towne passeth to the Burse where the Merchants meet There is a publike House for shooting the wall on this side as round about the City is of stone and is rather adorned then fortified with some Towers And this wall is double vpon the Inner whereof compassed with deepe ditches many Houses are built On the West side without the gates almost halfe way to Vlishing is Rammakins Castle kept by English Souldiers sent from Vlishing to that purpose being a place of great importance because the channell going to Midleburge runnes within the command of their Artillery On this South side is the Hauen and without the wals very faire pastures
set round about with willowes Here is the publike house for exercise of shooting in the Peece and Crosse-bow which hath a sweet prospect into a large greene plaine where they vse to spread linnen clothes in the sunne and here certaine rowes of trees being planted yeeld a pleasant shade to them that walke therein One of the said rowes of trees called Vinareberg leades to an old Castle of the Counts of Holland compassed with a drie ditch in which Count Maurice dwelt but in the great Hall thereof were many shops of Merchants for small wares Vpon the wals of the said Castle and vpon the windowes of the Church these words were written in latine To Charles the fifth c. To the most inuincible Caesar Charles the fifth Roman Emperour the victorious desender of the Catholike Religion and Augustus The Prouisors of this House haue placed this in the yeere 1547. Thereby was the statua of Charles the fifth kneeling on his knees In the window were painted the Armes of all the Knights of the golden Fleece The Histories of the Countrey report the building of this Pallace to be wonderfull in that the top of the Hall is not ioined with beames but with arches but for my part I obserued no great magnificence in the worke The second of the foresaid rowes of trees called Furholt leads to a gentlemans house the fairest most stately built in this Village In the middest of the Hage lies the market place and the Church On the South side is the water that leader to Delph and round about on all sides without the Village are faire pastures excepting the North-side where the sandy downes of the Sea lie neere to the Village In the Church is a Monument of Count Albertus Duke of Bauria and another of a Count of Hanaw with diuers others which I omit as hauing no antiquity or magnificence While I staied at the Hage I walked out in halfe an houres space to the village Lausdune where I saw a wonderfull monument the History whereof printed in a paper the Earle of Leicester as they said had carried with him into England leauing onely the same in written hand the coppy whereof I will set downe first remembring that two basens of brasse hanged on the wall in which the children whereof I shall speak were baptized The manuscript was in latine a followeth En tibi monstrosum nimis memorabile factum Quale nec a Mundi conditione datum Haec lege mox animo stupefactus lector abibis So strange and monstrous thing I tell As from the worlds frame nere befell He parts amasde that markes it well The rest in latine is thus englished Margaret wife to Hermanuus Count of Henneberge daughter to Florence Count of Holland and Zealand sifter to William King of the Romans and Caesar or Gouermour of the Empire This most noble Countesse being about forty two yeeres old the very day of preparation called Paraseene about nine of the clocke in the yeere 1276. brought forth at one birth three hundred sixty fiue children which being baptized in two basens of brasse by Guido suffragan of Vtretcht all the males were called Iohn and all the females Elizabeth but all of them together with the mother died in one and the same day and lie buried here in the Church of Lausdune and this happened to her in that a poore woman bearing in her armes two twinnes the Countesse wondering at it said shee could not haue them both by one man and so reiected her with scorne whereupon the woman sore troubled wished that the Countesse might haue as many childen at a birth as there be daies in the whole yeere which besides the course of nature by miracle fell out as in this table is briefly set downe for perpetuall memory out of old Chronicles as well written as printed Almighty God must be in this beheld and honoured and extolled with praises for euer and euer Amen From the Hage my selfe and other consorts hired a Waggon for two guldens and passed to Leyden hauing on both sides faire pastures fruitfull corne fields and some pleasant groues CHAP. V. Of my iourney out of the vnited Prouinces by the Sea coast to Stode and Lubeck in Germany Of my sauing to Denmarke and thence to Dantzk in Prussen and my iourney through Poland to Padoua in Italy IN the end of the Month of Iune and the yeere 1593 hauing now dispatched by Letters all my businesse in England and hauing seene the vnited Prouinces I was in doubt by what way I should returne into Italy and hauing already passed the two waies of Germany that by Augspurge and the other by the Sweitzers and the way by France being then shut vp by the ciuill warres the common desire of Trauellers not to passe the same way twice but to see as many new Countries as their course will permit made me resolue to passe through the Kingdomes of Denmarke and Poland and by the fortified City of Wien in Austria In which iourney howsoeuer I should goe much out of my way and was like to indure many troubles yet I thought nothing was difficult to a willing minde Therefore I hired a waggon from Leyden to Vtrecht and paied for my part twelue stiuers Wee passed three miles and a halfe in three houres by the village Alpha where the Spaniards incamped when they besieged Leyden and by a little Towne called Gonda hauing on both sides faire pastures but somewhat ouer flowed and ditches set with willowes and we came to a little village where the waggoner gaue his horses meat Then in foure houres space wee passed foure miles and a halfe hauing on both sides fruitfull corne fields and like ditches set with willowes and so we came to Vtrecht But a mile and a halfe before we came thither we passed out of the Territory of Holland and entred the Bishopricke of Vtrecht which is one of the vnited Prouinces Not farre from the City wee saw a crosse set vp for a Monument of a Bishop dying in battell against the Hollanders I had almost forgotten the little City Werden which they shewed vs by the way and told vs that the forme thereof was like the City of Ierusalem which at that time I had not seene and therefore mention this from their report rather then from my iudgement The City Vtrecht is seated in length from South-east by East to North-west by West and vpon the end at South-east by East is the gate Weitefraw where the Rheine enters the City At the other end Noth-west by West are the ruines of an old Castle which the Spaniards kept before the wars to bridle the City and there be two gates Saint Katherine-port and Wert-port each of them hauing their suburbes On the South-west side are walles of earth but the ditches were almost dry On the North-east side is the gate Olske-port and there bee three strong Rauelings one defending the other On this side bee two streets fairer then the
hauing eleuen pillars seuen foote distant one from the other whereof many were of porphery and had beautifull spots The highest roofe of the Church on the inside is painted with Histories of the Scripture with a rich painting that shineth with gold and glasse as if it were enameled called in Italian Alla Mosaica and the pauement is rich with stones of marble porphery and Iaspar From the lesse Church called of Saint Katherine we entred a Caue vnder the earth where the Friars gaue euery one of vs a lighted waxe candle in his hand Let them place what religion they will therein I am sure the Caue was so darke as we could not haue passed it without a light In this Caue wee did first see the bones of the Infants killed by Herod then the Sepulchers of Eusebius and of Saint Ierome in his Chappell for they hold that he long dwelt there Then they did lead vs into a more darke place where they say he did liue an austere life fifty yeeres space and translated the Bible out of Hebrew into Latine and wrote many volumes But the place seemed to me more fit to dull the braine then to yeeld such fruites of wit by reason it was darke and digged deepe vnder ground From this Caue we ascended by ten marble staires into a Chappell all couered with marble and lying in length from the West at which end we entered to the East And from this West end as well Turkes as Christians of all sects goe vpon their knees to the Easterne end and there kisse a marked stone in the pauement in which verie place they say the Redeemer of the World was borne By this stone on the South-side lieth a little Chappell hauing two doores onely diuided with a pillar In which Chappell at the right hand or West-side is a manger raised from the ground and all of marble in which they say Christ was laid after his birth and in the wall they shew a stone hauing as they say the liuely picture of Saint Hierome In the said little Chappell on the left hand or East side they shew a place where they say Christ was circumcised and shed the first drops of his precious blood for the sauing of mankind And there they fhewed another place where they say the Wise-men of the East adored Christ and offered to him their gifts The wals of both Chappels the pauements and all things are couered with marble The roofe on the inside is painted with the foresaid rich pictures glistering likeenamelled worke To conclude all things are stately and rich and remain so vnder the Turkish tiranny yet more rich in the Chappell of Chrsts birth then in the greater Church where all things then began to fall to ruine because the Turkes beleeue not that Christ died The Turkes doe so reuerence this monument of Christs birth as they creepe groueling vpon hands knees to kisse the said stone yet in the meane time they despise the monuments of his death because they beleeue not that he died From hence going Backe the same way we entered they shew vpon the right hand a hole in the highest roofe of the Church by which they say the starre that conducted the Wise-men fell from aboue into the bowels of the earth Can he forbeare laughter who considers the bignes of the starres yea euen of Comets as some write that was specially finding no mention of this falling of the starre to be made in the holy scriptures The City or Village of Bethlehem is distant from Ierusalem some fiue miles in Turky I alwaies vnderstand Italian miles and we came hither from the Westerne gate of Ierusalem through a faire way and mountaines planted with Vines Oliues and fruitfull Trees Bethlehem is seated vpon Mountaines and hath pleasant hils on the East and South-sides a pleasant plaine on the North-side ending in great mountaines towards Ierusalem 84 As wee went out of Bethlehem to visit the Monuments here they shewed vs the field in which the Angell made knowne the birth of Christ to the Shepheards and the Caue wherein they did lie by day to shun the heate of the Sunne 85 Here they say the Patriarch Lot planted the first Vine 86 Here beyond pleasant Hilles wee did distinctly see the Plaine of Iordan and the dead Sea with the situation of Sodom and Gomorra 87 Here they say Bethalia was seated of old 88 Here we did see the ruines of a house in which they say Ioseph the Virgins Husband did dwell 89 Here they say the Virgin hid her selfe from the tyranny of Herod 90 Here they say that King Salomon had his Garden The Franciscan Friers sent out of Italy each third yeere into these parts did courtcously intertaine vs at Bethlehem and at our first comming in imitation of Christ they washed our feete It happened that my brother fell sicke here of an Ague and so when our consorts vpon Saterday in the euening returned to Ierusalem wee were forced to stay here that night But the next day in the euening we came to them at the Monastery of Ierusalem And because they made haste to returne homeward wee went forth the next day being Munday the tenth of Iune earely in the morning to see the Mountaines of Iudea And that day it happened that I was troubled with loosenesse of body whereof I made good vse as I shall hereafter shew which makes me name it We went out of the Citie at the Gate of Ioppa on the West side and vpon our right hand they shewed vs 91 this place where they say that Salomon was anointed King 92 Thence we went right forward to a Fountaine in the Desart where they say Phillip the Apostle did interpret the Scriptures to the Eunuch of Candace Queene of Ethropii and baptized him 93 Here they say is the Desart in which Iohn Baptist preached and they shewed vs his Caue cut out of a Rocke and a long stone therein vpon which he vsed to lye and a pleasant spring issuing out of the Rocke where hee vsed to drinke and another stone vpon which he vsed to sit 94 He e we came to the Mountaines or Mountanous places of Iudea and here they say the Prophet Zacharias dwelt where a woman of the Moores kept the Church of old built there 95 From hence a Musket shot or little more is another house which they say belonged to Zacharias and in one of these houses he pronounced the Song Blessed bee the Lord God of Israel c. And when the Virgin visited Elizabeth the Babe here sprang in her wombe and the Virgin here pronounced the Song My soule doth magnifie c. And Iohn Raptist was borne here 96 From this place they say the Tree was taken vpon which the Crosse of Christ was made and Greeke Friers keepe the Church that was here built This place is two miles distant from Ierusalem whether we returned the same way we came out and entered the Citie by the West Gate of Ioppa The
Sunday by twilight of the morning we set sayle from Ioppa and coasting the shoare of Asia had the land so neere vs euery day as wee might easily distinguish the situation of the Cities and Territories And first we passed by the Citie called Caesaria Philippi seated in a Plaine and twentie fiue miles distant from Ioppa which of old was a famous Citie but now for the most part ruined and become an infamous nest of Turkes Moores and Arabians Here Christ raised to life the daughter of Iairus and healed the woman which for twelue yeetes had a flux of bloud And here Saint Peter did baptize the Centurion Cornelius and Saint Paul in the presence of Foelix disputed with Tertullus Here Titus the sonne of Vespasian landing when hee came to destroy Ierusalem cast great multitudes of Iewes to wilde beasts to be deuoured In the right way to Tripoli Antipatris was not farre distant which Herod did rebuild and thither the souldiers did leade Saiint Paul by the command of the Tribune Lysias but we could not see this Village Next we did see the Pilgrims Castle now called Tortora Then we sailed by the Promontory hanging farre ouer the Sea of the Mountaine Carmelus made famous by the aboade of the Prophet Elias Then we passed within sight of the old Citie Ptolemais after called Achon and Acri seated in a faire playne within a Creeke of the sea of the same name and compassing the Citie And such afaire plaine lyes all along the Coast from Ioppa to Tripoli This Citie was famous by the armies of Europe passing to conquer these parts and at this day it hath a large circuit compassed with walls and a commodious Hauen and is thirtie fiue miles distant from Caesaria From hence salling twentie miles we passed by the Citie Tyrus then called Sur the ruines whereof witnesse the old magnificence The seate thereof seemed most pleasant being built vpon a low Rocke in the forme of a Peninsule which Rocke was part of a high Promontory hanging ouer the sea And it may appeare how strongly it was fortified of old by Quintus Curtius relating the difficulties with which Alexander the Great took and subdued the same When we had sailed some ten miles further we did see the ruines of Sarepta where the Prophet Eleas lodged with a widdow in the time of a great famine After we had sayled some twenty miles further we did see and passed by the City Sydon now called Saetta seated on the North side of a Promontory and lying towards the West and South to the very sea side These most pleasant Territories are inhabited by wicked people but God sent vs a faire wind by which we escaped from them into whose Ports if we had beene driuen they would haue taken all lust and vniust occasions to extort money from vs if they did vs no worse harme Mention is often made in the Holy Seriptures of Sydon Tire and these Territories as well in the old as new Testament the particulars whereof I omit Here first we did gladly see the hils and high tops of Mount Lybanus being a very pleasant and fruitful mountaine the wines whereof are carried as farre is Haleppo The Castle Barutti is some two miles distant from the Promontory of Saetta and it is seated vpon the North-side of a hil hanging ouer the sea Here they say that Saint George deliuered the Kings daughter by killing a Dragon And to this place as also to Tyre and Sydon there is great concourse of Merchants who haue their chiefe trafficke at Damaseus and especially at Haleppo From hence we passed ten miles to Biblis then after ten miles saile we passed by 〈◊〉 and againe after ten miles saile by a Promontory which the Italians call Capo Peso Lastly we passed ten miles sailing by a most pleasant plaine and so vpon Thursday the seuenteenth of Iune landed at Tripoli of Syria so called for difference from Tripoli in Africke The Hauen is compassed with a wall and lies vpon the west-side of the City whereif were many little Barkes and some Shippes of Marsiles in France The Hauen is fortified with seuen Towers whereof the fourth is called the Tower of Loue because it was built by an Italian Merchant who was found in bed with a Turkish woman which offence is capitall as well to the Turke as Christian if he had not thus redeemed his life Vpon the Hauen are built many store-houses for Merchants goods and shops wherein they are fet to sayle The City of Tripoli is some halfe mile distant from the Hauen to which the way is sandy hauing many gardens on both sides In this way they shew a pillar fastned vpon a hill of sand by which they say the sand is inchanted lest it should grow to ouerwhelme the City Likewise they shew other pillars vnder which they say great multitudes of Scorpions were in like sort inchanted which of old wasted all that Territory and they thinke that if these pillars were taken away the City would be destroied by the sand and Scorpions The length of the City somewhat passeth the bredth and lieth from the South to the North seated vpon the side of an hill so cut by nature as it conueyes a brooke into the streetes Vpon the West side of the City towards the South corner is a Castle vpon a high hill which the French men built of old to keepe the Citizens in subiection and therein the Great Turke to the same end keepes a garrison of Souldiers vnder his Agha or Gouernour of the City Vpon the East side are two bridges ouer the foresaid brooke whence many pleasant fountains spring which running from the South to the North passe through the streetes of the City and then water the gardens Beyond this brooke are fruitfull hils and beyond the hils Mount Lybanus lies so high as it hinders all further prospect which mountaine is very pleasant abounding with fruitfull trees and with grapes yeelding a rich wine Vpon the North side without the gates are many most pleasant gardens in which they keepe great store of silke-wormes for the Turks sell their raw silke to the Italians and buy of them the stuffes wouen thereof The building of Tripoli and of these parts is like to that of Cyprus and Ierusalem The streete that leades to the way of Haleppo is broad the rest narrow and the aire and waters are vnhealthfull Mount Lybanus as I formerly said is incredibly fruitfull and the plaine of Tripoli reaching ten miles is more fruitfull then can easily be expressed bearing great store of pleasant fruites whereof one among the rest is called Amazza-Franchi that is kill Frankes or French because the men of Europe died in great numbers by eating immoderately thereof The plaine of Tripoli did of old yeeld two hundred thousand crownes yeerely to the Count thereof as Historians write And how soeuer the old trafficke of Tripoli is for the most part remoued to
we found the Venetian ship are in the description of Constantinople noted with the letters W and X and they are now commonly called the Castles of Gallipolis but of old that noted with the letter W was called Sestos being a Citie in Thrace in which the most faire Hero was borne and dwelt and the other noted with the letter X was called Abydos being a Citie of Asia the lesse in which Leander dwelt famous for his loue to Hero and these Castles are diuided by the Hellespont some two miles broad at least so narrow as Leander is said often to haue swomme ouer it to his beloued Hero The Castle of Sestos more specially is seated in a most fertile soyle for Nairo the next adioyning towne yeeldes excellent Wines and all necessaries to sustaine life plentifully Howsoeuer the ships ought and vse to bee staied here for three daies yet a very faire winde blowing and all duties being performed the Patrons of the ships by a large gift to the Officers sometimes obtaine leaue to depart sooner They say that each passenger by Pole payeth here one zechine for tribute but perhaps this belongs onely to Merchants for my selfe my seruant and the English Gentleman in my company hauing giuen betweene vs one zechine to the substitutes of the Venetian Bailiffe so their Ambassador is called we were dismissed vpon their motion yet we moreouer gaue fortie aspers to a Ianizare and fiftie aspers to a Chiauslar for the fees of their offices It being vnwholsome to sleep aboue the hatches of the ship at this time of the yeere though in summer time I made choice to sleepe so when I sailed from Venice to Ierusalem we three namely my selfe the English Gentleman and my seruant gaue for each of vs three zechines to the Pilot to be partners with him in his cabin which by his Office hee had proper to himselfe in the Castle of the ship and to the Patron or Master of the ship for our diet we paid each of vs after the rate of fiue zechines and a halfe by the moneth as well at Sea as in Harbors and for our passage we ioyntly paid ten ducats of Venice so as I still paid two parts of three in all expences besides that wee brought with vs some hundreds of Egges and a vessell of excellent Wine of Palormo which our Ambassadour at Constantinople gaue vs. Vpon Monday the seuenth of March after the old stile vsed in Turky by all Christians and others in the afternoone we set sayle and passed the straight of Hellespont and the same night sayled by the foresaid Iland of Tenedos This Sea is called Pontus of the adiacent Prouince of Asia the lesse named Pontus which Prouince containes Colchis famous by the old Argonauticall expedition Capidocia and Armenia The eight of March early in the morning we did see tha Iland Lemnos famous for a kind of earth there digged and in Latin called Terra Sigillata vpon our right hand and the Ilands Metelene and Chios now called Zio and the Citie Smyrna vpon the continent of Asia the lesse vpon our left hand to omit Ephesus not farre distant vpon the same continent And being now entred into the AEgean Sea now called Archipelagus of fiftie Ilands standing like Arches and not farre distant one from the other which are called Cyclades or Sporades the ninth of March hauing now sailed eightie miles and being to sayle by the Iland Saint George of Skyra the windes were so contrary as wee were forced to strike sayles and lie at hull that is tossed to an fro by the waues The same day we set sayle and left the Iland Andros one of the Cyclades and the Iland Tyno subiect to the Venetians on our left hand or towards the East and the Iland Negropont lying close to the continent of Attica and right ouer against the ruines of famous Athens on our right hand or towards the West The tenth and eleuenth of March wee sayled 100 miles in the same Sea full of Ilands and sailed by the Ilands Gia and Makarone But towards night contrary windes rising high and we fearing to bee cast vpon some shoare of many adiacent Ilands againe we struck sayle and lay at hull tossing to and fro but making small or no progresse The twelfth of March early in the morning we set sayle and sayled by the Iland Milo of old called Miletum where Saint Paul landed Acts 20. 15 and a neere Iland Sdiles of old called Delos and most famous for the Oracle of Apollo and the Promontory of Morea of old called Peloponesus containing many Prouinces of Greece which promontory is called Capo Malleo The thirteenth of March hauing sayled one hundred and ninety miles we passed by the Iland Cerigo not subiect to the Turkes as most of the Ilands are but to the Venetians who in a Castle on the South side keepe a Garrison of souldiers It is one of the Cyclades seated at the entrance of the Archipelagus towards the South scarce fiue miles distant from Morea the foresaid continent of Greece and some one hundred and fiftie miles from Candia the chiefe Citie of the Iland Candia and was of old called Scotera also Porphoris of that precious kind of Marble there digged and also Citherea of which as her chiefe seate Venus is often so called And to this day there are seene the ruines of a Temple dedicated to Venus and of a Pallace belonging to Menelaus the husband of Helena From the thirteenth to the seuenteenth of March the windes were so contrary or scant as wee onely sayled one hundred and twenty miles and tooke harbour in the Iland Zante subiect to the Venetians whereof I made mention in my voyage from Venice to Ierusalem Here some English Merchants continually reside and the Hauen being commodious and most ships that trade in these Seaes vsing to put into this Harbor the goods that are diuersly transported thence are vulgarly but falsely esteemed the natiue commodities of the Iland It hath scarce sixtie miles in circuit and the Mountaines round about vpon the Sea-side inclose a pleasant and fruitfull Plaine The Hauen is like an halfe Moone increasing and the chiefe Towne called Zante lies in a little Plaine vpon the innermost part thereof in length The buildings of the houses are two stories high with a tyled but low roofe without any windowes according to the building of Italy but are poore and base for the matter so as the onely beautie of the Towne lies in the Castle built at the East end vpon a high Hill being of a large circuit and containing many houses and Churches within the walles thereof In which Castle the Gouernour called il Podestà and the other Venetian inferiour Magistrates dwell and giue Law to the people of that Iland The Turkish Pirats of Saint Mauro in Morea hauing lately set vpon and taken a huge Venetian ship did lade seuenteene of their little barques with the most pretious goods
Army in this estate during this time That the assurance the Irish had receiued of succours from Spaine was the onely fewell of the last blaze of this Rebellion Therefore praying that except Master Secretary had some certainety that Spaine would not at that time assist the Rebels the Army might by all meanes be strengthened which would be necessary if such assistance were sent and would make an end of the warres if none were sent And howsoeuer that befell yet for preuention of Munition and such supplies to be furnished to the Rebels from Spaine aduising that some few of the Queenes ships might lie on the West and somewhat towards the North of Ireland Adding that some little boats made both to row and to saile would barre the Ilander Scots from supplying the Rebels with any munition And that his Lordship to meet with the Earle of Ormond lately set free by Ony mac Rory who had taken him Prisoner that day tooke his iourney towards Carlogh where he hoped to sound the bottome of the conditions of his deliuery with the best course how to disintangle him and by his conference to make a shrewd guesse how the Earle stood affected in these doubtfull times His Lordship in his next Letters aduertised into England that he was not priuy nor consenting to the giuing of pledges at the Earle of Ormonds deliuery but since they were giuen in regard of her Maiesties extraordinary care for the Earles liberty he did not shew any manifest dislike thereof and now conceiued the Earle did apprehend the indignity done to him by those base traitors and therefore had such a spleene against them as hee had ioyned with him in diuers plots as well to recouer the pledges wherein the Earle protested to spare no money if they were so to be redeemed besides that he and their Fathers protested that their danger should not hinder them from doing their vttermost seruice to the Queene as also to worke his reuenge vpon the Rebels At this time Tyrone attending the garrison at Loughfoyle Odonnel starting through Connaght into Thomond and spoyling both Countries Sir Samuel Bagnoll drew out of the Newry into Monaghan where he tooke a prey and killed sixe Commanders and some sixty of the common rebels onely three of his being staine and twenty hurt The subiects of the Pale fearing belike to be complained on for the small assistance they gaue to the Queenes seruice sent ouer the Lord of Howth and Sir Patricke Barnewell to make first complaint after the Irish manner of the wrongs done them by the Army neuer acquainting the Lord Deputy and Counsell therewith And notwithstanding their former vnwillingnes to beare any charge for the Queenes seruice now they were content for these their Deputies expence in England to cesse euery plow land at three shillings From the seuenth of Iuly to the twelfth Sir Oliuer Lambert with some troopes lay encamped at the Tougher in Ophalia where he made a Causey and built a Fort and thereleft a Guard to keepe the passage alwaies open for the victualling of Phillipstowne Fort in which seruice the Earle of Southampton as a voluntary by his presence and valour much encouraged our men At this time many of the Rebels in Lemster and the Northerne borders made sute to the Lord Deputy to be receiued to mercy with offer of large summes of money to the Lord Deputy for their pardons but his Lordship refused their offer till they had first done some seruice and had drawne blood against some of their confederates Thus much his Lordship aduertised into England the sixteenth of Iuly as likewise a good seruice presently done and a great prey taken in the Fuse by Sir Richard Moryson the Gouernour of Dundalke The same twelfth of Iuly his Lordship tooke his iourney towards the borders of the North vpon hearing that Tyrone was drawne into those parts There his Lordship intended to spoyle the corne as likewise in all other parts when it should be a little riper Mac Mahowne and Patricke mac Art Moyle offered now to submit but neither could be receiued without the others head But Oconnor Roe mac Gaire for good respects of seruice was at the same time receiued to mercy His Lordship hearing that Tyrone contained himselfe in his fastnes and being requited out of England to attempt something vpon the Lemster Rebels left the Northerne borders strongly guarded against any inuasion and left order with the Counsell to hasten the generall hoasting and make ready all prouisions for a iourney into the North and leauing Dublyn the twelfth of August rode to the Nasse and so marched to the Fort of Phillipstowne in Ophaly with fiue hundred sixty foote and sixty horse besides voluntaries in his company In the way into Leax his Lordship tooke a prey of two hundred Cowes seuen hundred garrons and fiue hundred sheepe besides great store of small cattell The sixeteenth of August his Lordship burning the Countrey and spoyling the corne marched towards the passage one of the most dangerous in Ireland where Sir Oliuer Lambert with the Forces he had was to meet him Both of them fought all the way and killed diuers rebels whereof the Lord Deputy left fifteene dead in the place besides many hurt they met together at noone The seuenteenth day the army marched towards a fastnes where the rebels had stored great plenty of corne At the entry there was a Foard compassed in with woods and a bogge betweene them where the rebels let the vanguard of the horse passe but his Lordship passing with a few gentlemen and his owne seruants before the vanguard of the foote the rebels began the skirmish with him and the foote wings being slowly sent out they came close vp to him the traytor Tyrrel hauing appointed an hundred shot to wait on his Lorships person with markes to know him In this skirmish we killed thirty fiue rebels and hurt seuenty fiue on our part two onely being killed and a few slightly hurt Captaine Masterson dangerously hurt in the knee and his Lordship hauing a very good horse killed vnder him and another killed vnder Master Iohn Chidley a gentleman of his Lordships chamber But the best seruice at that time done was the killing of Owny mac Rory a bloody and bold yong man who lately had taken the Earle of Ormond prisoner and had made great stirres in Mounster He was the chiefe of the O Mores Sept. in Leax and by his death they were so discouraged that they neuer after held vp their heads Also a bold bloody rebell Callogh mac Walter was at the same time killed Besides that his Lordships staying in Leax till the twenty three of August did many other waies weaken them for during that time he fought almost euery day with them and as often did beate them Our Captaines and by their example for it was otherwise painefull the common souldiers did cut downe with their swords all the Rebels corne to the value of ten thousand pound and
And that speciall care should be had to punish and preuent such souldiers as dismissed by their Captaines Passes or running away from their colours did duly returne into England The nine and twentieth of May vpon the intercession of the Lord President by his Letters according to the course held by directions out of England the Lord Deputy granted his warrant for drawing of her Maiesties pardon to Cuocher Omulrian a Munster rebell chiefe of his Sept or name and eighty three followers aswell men as weomen and children of that sept The second of Iune it was resolued in Councell that letters should be written to the Lord President of Mounster requiring him to draw the forces vnder him towards Lymricke and in those parts to imploy them most part of the following summer as well ready to attend the discent of any forraigne enemy as fitly laid to giue countenance to the prosecution of the rebels in Connaght whether the said Lord President was to be further directed to send a thousand foot and fifty horse according to the aboue mentioned proiect to the end that the rebels being prosecuted in that Prouince might haue no leasure to ioine with those of the North for disturbing the planting of a garrison at Ballishannon which Sir Henry Dockwra was to plant from the way of Loughfoyle The fifth of Iune the Lord President aduertised that warning had beene giuen to those of Mounster for the sending of their men to the generall hoasting aboue mentioned which the Lord Deputy had appointed to meet according to the old custome at the hill of Tarragh but that he feared the scarcity of victuals and want of furniture would either hinder their full appearance or make them of small vse to the seruice The sixth day vpon the Lord Presidents letters warrant was giuen for a charter of pardon without fine to be granted to one hundred fifty one Inhabitants about Moghely in the County of Corke as well men as weomen and children for life lands and goods And the like was granted to Oswilliuan More of that Prouince with 481 followers The eighth of Iune being Monday the Lord Deputy drew the forces out of Dundalke and marched two miles to the hill of Fagher neere the pace of the Moyry where he encamped And while he lay there his Lordship caused a fort to be built in the said Pace at the three mile water not rising from thence till he had made this Fort defensible so as leauing some warders in it the workemen might in his absence finish the building The thirteenth of Iune in the Campe at the Fagher his Lordship published the Proclamation of the new Coyne all other monies hauing beene decried three daies before And by his Lordships direction like Proclamations printed at Dublyn thence formerly sent to Loughfoyle Knockfergus into the Prouinces of Connaght Mounster were at the same time published together in all places The foureteenth in the same Campe his Lordship and the Counsellors there wrote the following letter to the Lords in England IT may please your most Honourable Lordships perceiuing by your Lordships Letters of the eighteenth of May that the victuals expected to answere our purpose of planting Ballishannon by Connaght could not arriue in such quantity nor time as might inable vs to proceed in that iourney and receiuing some arguments of your Lordships inclination to Sir H. Dockwra his offer to plant that garrison from Loughfoyle we grew into a new consultation in what sort to make the warre this Summer First it was propounded with the Army to march by Lecaile and those parts into Colrane the end whereof should haue beene to haue brought in subiection all the woodmen and vtterly taken from Tyrone all that part of Vlster between Colrane and Loughsidney to the Blackewater from whence heretofore the Traitor hath gathered his greatest strength The passages being not very dangerous and we hauing the commodity of the Sea to supply vs we should haue made the warre that way to great purpose and with good conueniency and perhaps might haue fallen ouer the Banne into Tyrone all other wayes being of extreame danger to enter into that Countrey except that one by Loughfoyle The chiefe difficulty that did arise against this proiect was the danger wherein we should leaue all things behind vs if the Spaniard should land when we had carried the chiefe force of the Kingdome into the vttermost corner thereof and the next was that we being not able to leaue any great guard for the Pale should haue left it naked to any attempt of Tyrone and the new reclaimed rebels to the mercy of him as the Pale to the mercy of both But in the end we grew to this resolution First in the Interym betweene this and the appointment of the generall hoasting by the which we should be supplied with carriages and about which time we expect victuals and munition out of England of the first wherof we are more sparingly prouided then may warrant the ingaging our selues into any great businesse and of the second so vtterly vnfurnished as wee scarce haue powder to maintaine a good daies fight nor tooles nor other prouisions to fortifie which must be our chiefe worke as we carry the rebels before vs to dwell by them we determine to assure the passage of the Moyry then to plant a garrison at Lecaile and to conuay some more men to Sir Arthur Chichester Gouernour of Carickefergus who with that Garrison and those supplies together with the aduantage that our stirring in all other places will giue him may goe neere to work little lesse effect then we with the whole Army should haue done and lastly we purpose to lie with the forces as neere Tyrone as we can After when victuals and munition should be arriued which we hope to receiue by the last of Iune being the time appointed for the generall hosting we purpose God willing as neere as wee can to imploy her Maiesties forces according to the inclosed proiect This proiect I haue formerly set downe With the particularities of Sir H. Dockewra his purpose to plant Ballishannon sent by Captaine Vaughan to your Lordships we are not acquainted onely Master Treasurer hath told vs of such a proposition in generall But wee doubt not that withall he hath propounded to your Lordships for such meanes to accomplish his worke as must be supplied from thence For from vs he can receiue little other assistance then our imploying the whole forces according to the inclosed proiect which in euery part is done as much as may be for his aduantage neither which is worse can we easily haue any intelligence from him or often heare one from another But if we perceiue that he shall find any impossibility to plant Ballishannon wee thinke to aduise him with the whole grosse of his strength to fall into Tyrone about such time as we shall be at Blackewater whereby it may fall out that we shall with the helpe of God meet at
in Britaine that one thousand of them scattered by tempest were since arriued at Baltemore That they were directed to Kinsale with promise of great succours by the pretended Earle of Desmona lately taken and sent into England and by Florence mac Carty whom the Lord President vpon suspition had lately taken and in like sort sent prsoner into England That the Spaniards gaue out that assoone as they could haue horses from Tyrone and other Irish rebels in which hope they had brought foure hundred or as after was credibly aduertised 1600 saddles they would keepe the field and therefore would not fortifie at Kinsale and that vpon the reuolt of this Countrey the King of Spaine meant from these parts to inuade England Whereupon the same eight and twenty day the Lord Deputy resolued in Counsell that letters should bee written into England that it was giuen out the Spaniards in Mounster were sixe thousand and that of certaine they were fiue thousand commanded by Don Iean del ' Aguila whereof three thousand were arriued in Kinsale and the Vice-Admirall Siriago for Don Diego de Brastino was Admirall of the Fleet with foure other ships scattered by tempest were arriued at Baltemore That no Irish of account had repaired to them excepting some dependants of Florence mac Carty of whose imprisonment the Spaniards had not heard before their landing who was the perswader of their comming to that Port. That to keepe Rebels from ioining with them it behoued vs presently to keepe the field That it was requisite to send some of the Queenes ships who might preuent their supplies and giue safety to our supplies both out of England and from Coast to Coast and might bring vs to Carke Artillery for battery with munition and victuals Likewise to write presently for three hundred Northerne horse and for the two thousand foot at Chester and two thousand more To write for sixe peeces of battery the biggest to be Demy Cannon for the field with carriages and bullets To certifie the Lords that Artillery could not be brought from Dablyn because the Irish ships had not masts and tackle strong enough to take them in and out besides that Easterly and Northerly winds onely seruing to bring them were rate at this season of the yeere and that the greatest Peeces in Mounster lay vnmounted on the ground And lastly to write for powder for fiue thousand shot and for sixe Peeces of Battery which must be some sixty last and for fifty tunne of lead with like quantity of match and fiue thousand Pyoners tooles The same day his Lordship was by letters aduertised that a Friet in a Souldiers habit was dispatched from Kinsale the foure twenty of September and passed through Clommell naming himselfe Iames Flemming and from thence went to Waterford where hee aboad few dayes and named himselfe Richard Galloway That he had Buls from the Pope with large indulgences to those who should aide the Spaniards sent by the Catholike King to giue the Irish liberty from the English tyranny and the exercise of the true olde Apostolike Roman Religion and had authority to excommunicate those that should by letters by plots or in person ioyne with her Maiesty whom the Pope had excommunicated and thereby absolued all her Subiects from their oath of alleagiance That euery generall Vicar in each Diocesse had charge to keep this secret till the Lord Deputy was passed to Corke when he assured them his Lordship should either in a generall defection not be able to vnderstand these proceedings or hearing thereof should be so imploied as he should haue no leisure to preuent them That he gaue out the Spaniards at Kinsale were 10000 besides 2000 dispersed by tempest which were landed at Baltimore hauing treasure munition and victuals for two yeers And that Tyrone would presently come vp to assist them at Kinsale and to furnish them with horses which they onely expected from him and had brought saddles and furniture for them Lastly aduice therein was giuen to his Lordship to write to the corporate Townes and chiefe Lords not to beleeue these fabulous reports but to take aduice not giuen out for feare of their defection but onely for their good to continue loyall subiects The nine and twentieth his Lordship with the Lord President and the aboue named Counsellors tooke some horse for guard and rode to view the Towne and harbour of Kinsaile and the Spaniards Fleete that vpon that view they might resolue of the fittest place for our Campe to sit downe by them They found the Spaniards possessed of the Towne and the greatest part of their shipping to haue put to Sea for Spaine for of thirty foure ships arriuing there only twelue now remained in the Harbour some of the other being lately put out and then seene vnder sayle so as they saw there was no more to be done till our forces should be arriued out of the North and Lemster and we inabled from England to keepe our selues from breaking after we should take the field The first of October his Lordship and the Counsell here wrote to the Lords in England according to the proiect resolued on the eight and twentieth of September Further beseeching their Lordships to pardon their earnest writing for munition and victuals though great proportions of them were already sent and that in respect the magazines formerly appointed for the best when the place of the Spaniards discent was vnknowne were so farre diuided as we could not without great difficulties make vse of them in these parts and at this time when for the present the Spaniard was Master of the Sea and the Queenes forces being drawne towards Kinsaile the rebels might easily intercept them by land but especially for that great vse might be made of those prouisions in the very places where now they were if Tirone come into Mounster with his forces as no doubt he would namely the magazin at Lymricke would serue excellently for the prosecution formerly intended and after to be made in Connaght though by sea or land they could not be brought to Corke without great difficulties and dangers Adding that for the present the Lord Deputie was forced to draw most of the forces of the North into Mounster leauing onely the Fortes guarded and so the Pale was not able to defend it selfe against Tyrone whereas he hoped to haue been enabled both to continue the prosecution in the North and also to besiege the Spaniards at one and the same time whereof yet hee did not altogether despaire so as their Lordships would speedily furnish such things as were earnestly desired by them for the good of the seruice being confidently of opinion that the only way to make a speedy end of the rebellion and as quicke a dispatch of the Spaniards out of Ireland was to make the warre roundly both in the North and in Mounster at one time Also aduertising that the Spaniards as they for certaine heard brought with them not onely sixteene hundred Saddles
there can hardly be giuen a more certain signe of loue or contempt then thr frequent rare or no writing or especially answering of Letters whereof the Italians haue a Prouerbe Chiscriue a chi non responde O egli èmatto o egli ha di bisogno Who writes to him that answers not againe He is a foole or neede doth him constraine 11 When he wil obserue the scituation of any City let him if he may without ielousie of the Inhabitants first climbe one of the highest steeples where hauing taken the generall scituation of the City he shall better remember in order the particular things to be seene in the City To which end let him carry about him a Dyall which may shew him the North South East and West which knowne he shall lesse erre in the description of the City and this he may obserue publikely onely with his eyes for auoiding of ielousie and after being retired into his Inne may draw it in paper if he thinke good And lest for the want of a guide to shew the markeable things in each City he should omit any thing worth sight let him confidently visit some chiefe Doctor or man of principall account especially in Germany where they are most affable For if he shall say that hee comes to see them as the liuing monuments of that City I will be bold to promise that they will giue him a guide to shew him any thing worth sight and to instruct him in such things as are fit for him to know For as Weomen easily beleeue such as tell them that they are faire though indeed they bee deformed so men of best quality will easily beleeue that their name is knowne among strangers and they take these visitations for honours done vnto them yea many especially in some places are vitiously proud that their neighbours should see strangers thus visit them 12 Many desire to haue their Countreymen and friends to bee their companions in these their iourneys And it is well said Comes saeundus in via pro vehiculo A pleasant consort by the way Is like a Coach that glides away But why should he not rather desire consorts of the same Nation of whom he may learne the language and all other things worthy to be obserued My selfe could neuer see any profitably spend their time abroade who flocked together with their owne Countreymen neither doe I attribute the little proficiency of the Germans and their giuing themselues to drinke euen amongst the sober Italians to any thing more then to their liuing together in forraigne parts For an Italian conuersing abroad with Italians shall neuer learne bashfull chastity How shall any man cast off a vice proper to his Nation it he doe not disuse it by little and little which he shall hardly doe among his Countrey-men inclined thereunto Neither is there danger of learning forraigne vices by leauing to conuerse with his Countrey men so hee propound to himselfe the foresaid end to learne vertues and cast off vices and if he bend himselfe wholly to attaine that end Moreouer in places of danger for difference of Religion or proclaimed warre whosoeuer hath his Countrey-man or friend for his companion doth much increase his danger aswell for the confession of his companion if they chance to be apprehended as for other accidents since he shall be accomptable and drawne into danger aswell by his companions words or deeds as by his owne And surely there happening many dangers and crosses by the way many are of such intemperate affections as they not onely diminish the comfort they should haue from this consort but euen as Dogs hurt by a stone bite him that is next not him that cast the stone so they may perhaps out of these crosses grow to bitternes of words betweene themselues yea sometimes filthily end their old friendship with new iniuries if not in single combates Besides if this deare friend and consort should happen to dye by the way and if other ill accidents should increase this euill whereof many may bee imagined as namely if by dying among enemies or Pagans hee cannot haue so much as the honour of a graue surely I speake by experience nothing can bee added to this calamity This griefe threatens sicknesse vnto thee and to how many ills that State is subiect in forraigne parts I shall shew in the Precept of preseruing health And this euent will take from thee all the pleasure of remembring thy dangers past after thou returnest home yea will make that bitter vnto thee which vseth to bee most comfortable to others Therefore I commend the English who withdraw themselues from consorting with their Countri-men abroad not shunning them vnnaturally out of hate but onely lodging in diuers houses and onely spending some howers of the weeke in their company to nourish acquaintance that they may bestow the rest of the time among those of the same Country wherein they liue and so better their language and learne the state of the Countrie For my part if I were to suffer ill I had rather be alone then haue a friend partner with me howsoeuer the Poet saith Solamen miseris soicos habuisse doloris The miserable man doth grieue the lesse If he haue partners in his sad distresse Which is to bee vnderstood of enemies or vnknowne partners for I cannot thinke that my torment could bee asswaged by the like miserie of my friend Others obiect that it is the vnspeakeable comfort of marriage that man and wife like well paired Heyfers beare all burthens together Surely if other kinds of ill could bee diuided into equall parts as burthens may I might bee of their opinion but many kindes of ill are like the soule which is all in the whole body and all in euery part thereof neither is the torment of the soule eased by the bodies suffering with it Therefore if I were to suffer pouerty banishment or torment I had rather bee a single man then married since the compassion of my wifes and childrens suffering with me would infinitely increase my misery These things being granted I confesse it followes for of contraries the consequence is contrary that the Traueller is to impart his good successes to his friends whereof Cicero in the dreame of Scipio so disputes as if a man seeing all the pleasures of Paradice could take no delight therein if he were alone and had no man with whom he might communicate them But in conclusion since Trauellers meet with more dangers then pleasures it is most fit for them to take such consorts abroad as the way yeelds and to deferre the imparting of their good successes to their friends till their happy returne home at which time as their absence hath sharpened their friends desire to see them so the discourse of these pleasant accidents may sweeten their conuersation 13 In stead of a companion let the Traueller haue alwayes with him some good Booke in his pocket as wee reade that Alexander the Great laied Homer
will cost him sixe pence or in some places but foure pence yet this course is lesse honourable and not vsed by Gentlemen but if he will eate in his chamber he commands what meate he will according to his appetite and as much as he thinkes fit for him and his company yea the kitchin is open to him to command the meat to be dressed as he best likes and when he sits at Table the Host or Hostesse will accompany him or if they haue many Guests will at least visit him taking it for curtesie to be bid sit downe while he eates if he haue company especially he shall be offred musicke which he may freely take or refuse and if he be solitary the Musitians will giue him the good day with musicke in the morning It is the custome and no way disgracefull to set vp part of supper for his breakefast In the euening or in the morning after breakefast for the common sort vse not to dine but ride from breakefast to supper time yet comming early to the Inne for better resting of their Horses he shall haue a reckoning in writing and if it seeme vnreasonable the Host will satisfie him either for the due price or by abating part especially if the seruant deceiue him any way which one of experience will soone find Hauing formerly spoken of ordinary expences by the high way aswell in the particular iournall of the first Part as in a Chapter of this Part purposely treating thereof I will now onely adde that a Gentleman and his Man shall spend as much as if he were accompanied with another Gentleman and his Man and if Gentlemen will in such sort ioyne together to eate at one Table the expences will be much diminished Lastly a Man cannot more freely command at home in his owne House then hee may doe in his Inne and at parting if he giue some few pence to the Chamberlin Ostler they wish him a happy iourney England hath three publike Feasts of great expence and pompous solemnity namely the coronation of the Kings the Feast of S. George as well vpon his day yeerely as at all times when any Knight of the Order is installed and the third when Seriants at the Law are called The Lord Mayor of the City of London vpon the day when he is sworne enters his Office keeps a solemne Feast with publike shewes of great magnificence besides that hee and the Sheriffes of the Citie daily keepe well furnished Tables to entertaine any Gentleman or stranger that will come to them to the great honour of the City in this particular passing all other Cities of the World knowne to vs. For the point of drinking the English at a Feast will drinke two or three healths in remembrance of speciall friends or respected honourable persons and in our time some Gentlemen and Commanders from the warres of Netherland brought in the custome of the Germans large garaussing but this custome is in our time also in good measure left Likewise in some priuate Gentlemens houses and with some Captaines and Souldiers and with the vulgar sort of Citizens and Artisans large and intemperate drinking is vsed but in generall the greater and better part of the English hold all excesse blame worthy and drunkennesse a reprochfull vice Clownes and vulgar men onely vse large drinking of Beere or Ale how much soeuer it is esteemed excellent drinke euen among strangers but Gentlemen garrawse onely in Wine with which many mixe sugar which I neuer obserued in any other place or Kingdome to be vsed for that purpose And because the taste of the English is thus delighted with sweetenesse the Wines in Tauernes for I speake not of Merchants or Gentlemens Cellars are commonly mixed at the filling thereof to make them pleasant And the same delight in sweetnesse hath made the vse of Corands of Corinth so frequent in all places and with all persons in England as the very Greekes that sell them wonder what we doe with such great quantities thereof and know not how we should spend them except we vse them for dying or to feede Hogges CHAP. IIII. Of Scotland touching the Subiects contained in the first Chapter THE Longitude of Scotland extends fiue degrees from the Meridian of sixeteene degrees to that of one and twenty degrees and the Latitude extends foure degrees from the Paralel of fifty sixe degrees and a halfe to that of sixty degrees and a halfe In the Geographical description wherof I wil briefly follow the very words of Camden as neere as I can being an Authour without exception 1 The Gadeni of Scotland were of old next neighbours to the Ottadini of Northumberland in England and inhabited the Countrey now called Teyfidale wherein is nothing memorable but the Monastery of Mailors 2 In Merch so called as a bordering Countrey the Castle Hume is the old possession of the Lords of Hume neere which is Kelso the ancient dwelling of the Earles of Bothwell which were long by inheritance Admirals of Scotland and the Merch is mentioned in Histories for nothrng more then the valour of the said Earles 3 Laudania of old called Pictland shooteth out from Merch towards the Scottish narrow Sea called the Frith and is full of mountaines but hath few woods In this Country are these little Cities or Townes Dunbarre Haddington and Musleborrow places wherein hath beene seene the warlike vertue of the English and Scots Somewhat lower and neere to the foresaid Frith lies Edenborough which Ptolomy cals Castrum Alatum a rich City of old compassed with wals and the seate of the Kings whole Palace is at the East end in a vally ouer which hangs a mountaine called the Chaire of Arthur our Britan Prince and from this Pallace is an easie ascent to the West end where the length of the City ends in a steepe rocke vpon which is built a most strong Castle called the Maidens Castle the same which Ptolomy cals Alatum This City was long vnder the English Saxons and about the yeere 960 England being inuaded by the Danes it became subiect to the Scots Leth is a mile distant and is a most commodious Hauen vpon the narrow Scottish Gulfe vulgarly called Edenborough Frith 4 Towards the West lay the Selgouae vpon another Gulfe running betweene England and Scotland vulgarly called Solway Frith of the said Selgouae inhabiting the Countries called Eskedale Annandale and Nidtsdale in which is the little Towne Dunfrise 5 Next lay the Nouantes in the Valleys where Gallway and Whitterne which Citie Ptolomy calles Leucopibia are seated 6 In the little Countrie Caricta hauing good pastures is the little Towne Gergeny which Ptolomy calles Rerigonium 7 More inward lay the Damnij where now Sterling Merteth and Claidsdale are seated Here the Riuer Cluyde runnes by Hamelton the seate of the Hameltons Family of English race of which the third Earle of Arran liueth in our dayes and after by Glascow the seat of an Archbishop and a little Vniuersitie Here