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A05597 The totall discourse, of the rare adventures, and painefull peregrinations of long nineteene yeares travailes from Scotland, to the most famous kingdomes in Europe, Asia, and Affrica Perfited by three deare bought voyages, in surveying of forty eight kingdomes ancient and modern; twenty one rei-publicks, ten absolute principalities, with two hundred islands. ... divided into three bookes: being newly corrected, and augmented in many severall places, with the addition of a table thereunto annexed of all the chiefe heads. Wherein is contayed an exact relation of the lawes, religions, policies and governments of all their princes, potentates and people. Together with the grievous tortures he suffered by the Inquisition of Malaga in Spaine ... And of his last and late returne from the Northern Isles, and other places adjacent. By William Lithgow.; Most delectable, and true discourse, of an admired and painefull peregrination from Scotland, to the most famous kingdomes in Europe, Asia and Affricke Lithgow, William, 1582-1645? 1640 (1640) STC 15714; ESTC S108592 306,423 530

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to their Country Unlesse by extremity of Justice the one still hanged before the other the remnant by the gallowes may examplify amendment contrariwise that Land shall never be quiet for these villanous Wood-carnes are but the Hounds of their hunting Priests against what faction soever their malicious malignity is intended partly for intertainement partly for particular spleens and lastly for a generall disturbance of the Countrey for the Priests greater security and stay The other abuse is their Libertinous Masses the redresse whereof I first to the Heavens and then to my Prince bequeath whose Sabboth recusant mony whereof they bragge as they say in derision of our luke-warme dispensation tendeth to none other purpose but to obombrate the true light of the Gospell and to feed their absurd and almost irrevocable ignorance And neverthelesse at their daily meetings experience taught mee there was never a more repining people against our Prince and Church as they be for in this presumption twofold cause arriseth want of zeale and Church discipline in our parts and the officious nine penny Masse on their part yea all and each of them so exacted and compounded with a higher or lower rates as the officers in this nature please The distribution whereof I no wayes paralell to the sleight concavi●ting veynes of the earth nor the sole supply of high-rising Atlas neither to invelope the perpendiculars of long-reaching Caucasus how soever ●ect-demolished Churches unpassable bridges indigent Schollers and distressed families be supported therewith I am as cleare of it as they although I smart by the contrary confusion But leaving this and observing my Method I remember I saw in Irelands North-parts two remarkable sights The one was their manner of Tillage Ploughes drawne by Horse-tayles wanting harnesse they are onely fastned with straw or wooden Ropes to their bare Rumps marching all side for side three or foure in a ranke and as many men hanging by the ends of that untoward Labour It is as bad a husbandry I say as ever I found among the wildest Savages alive for the Caramins who understand not the civill forme of Agriculture yet they delve hollow and turn over the ground with manuall and wooden instruments But they the Irish have thousands of both Kingdomes daily labouring beside them yet they cannot learne because they will not learne to use harnesse as they doe in England so obstinate and perverse they are in their Barbarous consuetude unlesse punishment and penalties were infl●cted and yet most of them are content to pay twenty shillings a yeare before they will change their custome The other as goodly fight I saw was women travelling the way or toyling at home carry their infants about their necks and laying the Dugges over their shoulders would give sucke to the Babes behinde their backs without taking them in their armes Such kind of breasts me thinketh were very fit to bee made money-bags for East or West Indian Merchants being more than halfe a yard long and as well wrought as any Tanner in the like charge could ever mollifie such Leather Ireland is an excellent Country to live in for cheapnes and all variety of mans sustenance therefore I would intreat the Reader to take this description of it though already spoken of before but not so fully This Country of Ireland lyeth farre in the West Ocean and is accounted by the most expert in that kinde to be in length very neare three hundred Miles from North to South in bredth from East to West one hundred and twenty Miles It much resembleth the forme of an Egge being as it were blunt at each end and smooth or plaine on the sides not extending it selfe forth to sea in Nooks and Armes of Land as England doth The Country it selfe lyeth low and is very waterish And containeth in it divers little Islands and is much troubled with Bogs and Marishes Some of their highest Hills I have seene them had standing pooles of water on their tops the Country of it selfe is very fruitfull in all sorts of Cattell and very plentifull of all manner of graine The aire is very wholsome yet not altogether so cleare and subtle as England The inhabitants are much troubled with sicknesse as defluxion of Rhumes and bloody Flixes and for prevention and helpe thereof they drinke Aqua-vitae which they conceive doth dry up the Rhume and keepe them healthfull It hath beene very full of Wood and but little Champaigne ground It is mightily inhabited by our English and much civilized of late by the great care of those which are and have beene their Governours Sea-coale and Turffe is most of their fuell it hath great store of horses but of no great stature as they bee in England They have plenty of Fish and all manner of Fowle Great store of Bees which yields them no small profit Sheepe are the fewest and scarcest of all other Cattell and those are but small and yield very course Woole whereof the women spinne and make their Rugges and Mantles which they weare about them No Venemous or Creeping Beast is bred brought forth or nourished there nor can live there if it were sent in and therefore the Spider of Ireland is well known not to be venemous or hurtfull The most part of the better sort of people are inclined to vertue and Religion wondrous kinde amorous and loving where they take their first love but very revengefull and spleenfull otherwise There are many Sorcerers and Witches amongst this Nation The gentlemen are excellent horse-men delighted with exercise of warlike Armes and are both stout and couragious and very free and bountifull in their Almes and hospitality At the death of any friend or kindred they follow the dead corpes to the Grave with howlings and bitter cryings pittifull in outward shew They are very apt to believe and give credit to Miracles and old Prophesies Relations and foolish sayings They are very desirous of praise and honour but very fearefull of dishonour They love an excellent Poet who can or will extoll Saint Patricke and their owne Nation and will bountifull reward them As for any other customes they have to avoid prolixitie I spare onely before my pen flee over Seas I would gladly shake hands with some of our Church-men there for better are the wounds of a friend than the sweet smiles of a flatterer for love and truth cannot dissemble Many dissembling impudents intrude themselves in this high calling of God who are not truly neither worthily thereunto called the ground here arising either from a carnall or carelesse presumption otherwise from needy greed and lack of bodily maintenance Such is now the corruption of time that I know here even Mechanick men admitted in the place of Pastors yea and rude bred Souldiers whose education was at the Musket mouth are become there both Lybian grave and unlearned Churchmen Nay besides them professed indeed professed Schollers whose warbling mouthes ingorged with spoonefu's of
I left the turmoyling dangers of the intricated Iles of the Ionean and Adriaticall seas and advised to travell in the firme land of Greece with a Caravan of Greekes that were bound for Athens Peterasso is a large and spacious City full of Merchandise and greatly beautified with all kind of C●mmercers Their chiefe commodities are raw Silkes Cloth of gold and silver Silken grow-grams Rich-Damask Velvets of all kinds with Sattins and Taffaties and especially a store-house for graine The Venetians Ragusans and Marseillians have great trading with them Here I remember there was an English Factor lying whom the Subbassa or Governour of the Towne a Turke caused privately afterward upon malice to be poysoned even when I was wintring at Constantinople for whose death the worthy and generous Ambassadour Sir Thomas Glover my Patron and Protector was so highly incensed that he went hither himselfe to Peterasso with two Ianizaries and a Warrant sent with him from the Emperour who in the midst of the Market-place of Peterasso caused one of these two Ianizaries strike off the head from the shoulders of that Sanzack and put to death divers others also that had beene accessary to the poysoning of the English Consull And the Ambassadour returning againe to Constantinople was held in singular reputation even with the Turkes for prosecuting so powerfully the sword of Justice and would not shrinke for no respect I being domesticke with him the selfe same time Pelop●nnesus now called Morea a Peninsula is all invironed with the sea save onely a narrow straight where it is tyed to the continent by an Istmus of five miles in breadth which the Venetian then Lord of it fortified with five Castles and a strong wall from creeke to creek which easily were subverted by the Turkish batteries the defect onely remaining in the defendants weaknesse and want of men Corinth and its gulfe lyeth at the East end of this Istmus and the Gulfe Lepanto on the West dividing Aetolia and Epyre The wall which traversed this strait of Morea was called Hexamite five miles long Truely it is one of the most famous destroit du terre en Europe Morea it selfe is in length 168. and in compasse 546. Miles and is at this day the most fertile and best inhabited Province of all the Empire of Greece The chiefe Rivers here are Arbona and Ropheos Argos here also is watered with the River Planizza neare which standeth the Towne of Epidaure wherein the Temple of Esculapius was so renowned for restoring of health to diseased persons It was anciently cognominate Agalia from Agalius the first King An. Mun. 1574. and also intituled from two Kings Sicionia and Apia then Peloponesus from Pelops and now Moreah It is divided in five territories or petty Provinces Laconia Arcadia Argolis Miseni● Eliso the proper territory of Corinth Of which City it was said Hor. Let men take heed of Lais Corinths whore Who earn'd ten thousand Drachmas in an houre It is said by Aeneas Silvius in his Cosmographicall treatise of Europe that divers Kings went about to dig through this Istmus to make it an Iland namely King Demetrius Iulius Caesar Caius Calig●la Domitius Nero of all whom he doth note that they not onely failed of their purpose but that they came to violent and unnaturall deaths But before the aforesaid Caravan at Paterasso admitted me into his company hee was wonderfull inquisitive to know for what cause I travailed alone and of what Nation I was To whom I soberly excused and discovered my self with modest answers which pacified his curiosity but not his avaritious mind for under a pretended protection he had of me hee extorted the most part of my money from my purse without any regard of Conscience In the first second and third dayes journeying we had faire way hard lodging but good cheare and kind entertainment for our money which was the Country Laconia But on the fourth day when we entred in the hilly and barren Country of Arcadia where for a daies journey we had no Village but saw abundance of Cattell without keepers and in that place it is thought the great battell of Pharsalia was fought between Iulius Caesar and Pompey the great Arcadia is bounded on the East with Eliso on the West with Misenia on the North with Achaia inferiour and on the South with a part of Laconia and the sea It was formerly termed Pelasgia and lastly it tooke the name from Arcas the sonne of Iupiter and Calisto the people whereof did long imagine they were more ancient than the Moon This soyle of whom Arcas great Patron was In age the Moone excell'd in wit the Asse But because it is a tradition of more antiquity than credit I doe rather note it than affirme it And as men should dread the thunder-bolt when they see the lightning so ignorance and Idolatry placed amongst us and round about us may be a warning to the professours of the truth to take heed of the venome lest by their Arcadian antiquity surpassing the Moone they become novices to some new intended Massacre for as powder faild them but alas not poison so now with policy they prevaile in all things how long the holy one of Israel knoweth but certainly our sins are the causes of their domineering our careles drooping In this desart way I beheld many singular Monuments and ruinous Castles whose names I know not because I had an ignorant guide But this I remember amongst these Rocks my belly was pinched and wearied was my body with the climbing of fastidious mountaines which bred no small griefe to my breast Yet notwithstanding of my distresse the remembrance of those sweet seasoned Songs of Arcadian Shepheards which pregnant Poets have so well penned did recreate my fatigated corps with many sugred suppositions These sterile bounds being past wee entred in the Easterne plaine of Morea called anciently Sparta where that sometimes famous City of Lacedemon flourished but now sacked and the lumpes of ruines and memory onely remains Marching thus we left Modena and Napoli on our right hand toward the sea side and on the sixt day at night we pitched our Tents in the dis-inhabited villages of Argo and Micene from the which unhappy Hellen was ravished This cursed custome of base prostitution is become so frequent that the greater sort of her mercinary sexe following her footsteps have out-gone her in their loathsom journeys of libidinous wayes shee being of such an infinite and voluptuous crew the arch-Mistresse and ring-leader to destruction did invite my Muse to inveigh against her lascivious immodesty as the inordinate patterne of all willing and licentious rapts I would thy beauty fairest of all Dames Had never caus'd the jealous Greekes to move Thy eyes from Greece to Illion cast flames And burnt that Trojan with adulterate love He captive like thy mercy came to prove And thou divorc'd was ravish'd with a toy He swore faire Helen was his dearest dove And
inferiour to the first and superiour to the second And although some Authors would have him but to repaire the second Temple yet it is most certaine he did even from the foundation raise its greatest beauty and glory For this Herod the Ascolinite was an Edomite stranger or Idumean who having gotten the Kingdome contrary to the Law of Moses and created King of Iewry by Octavius Augustus and knowing these people to be offended therewithall to procure their favour did build to them a third Temple This was it in which our Saviour and his Apostles did daily Preach and was set on fire by Titus the tenth day of August on which day likewise the first Temple was burnt by Nebuchadnezzar And lastly there is another great Temple builded in the same place by Sultan Selim Seliman reserved by Turkes and highly regarded for that respect they carry to Salomon neare the which or within whose Courts no Christian may enter under the paine of loosing his head This present Temple hath two incircling Courts invironed with high wals hauing two entires in the inner Court standeth the Temple that is composed of five circling and large Rotundotes rising high and incorporate from the ground with round tops The outward fabrick whereof we cannot see save on Mount Olivet which is over against the Citie and twice as high as Mount Sion These are all the monuments which in one day I saw within Ierusalem but as for Mount Calvary and the Holy Grave I saw them afterward which in their owne place shall be orderly touched As we were spending that day in these sights the Guardian had prepared one hundred souldiers sixty Hors-men and forty Foot-men to take with him the day following for his conduction to Iordan and the Mountaine in the Wildernesse where Christ fasted which is his usuall custome once every yeare between Palme Sunday and Easter returning again before Good-friday These places cannot be viewed save onely at that time neither may a Pilgrime goe along with the Souldiers unlesse hee give the value of seven Crownes or Piasters as a propine unto the Lievtenant being forty two shillings sterling and if the Traveller will not goe to that charge hee may stay there till their return which I would not wish him to doe if possibly hee may spare the money for the sight of Sodome and Iordans sake That same night after supper The Guardian demanded of us Travellers if wee would goe with him to see these memorable and singular things upon the former condition To whom wee answered in a generall consent wee would and so payed our moneys Early upon Tuesday morning all the Friers and Pilgrims being mounted on Mules save onely pedestriall I and two M●les loaden with our provision of victuals we departed from the City about nine of the clocke in the forenoone keeping our faces South-east and leaving Bethphage and By●hania on our left hand wee had pleasant travelling for seven miles but in the afternoon wee entred in a barren and desart Countrey till Sun-setting where at last wee arrived at a standing Well and there refreshing our selves and the beasts wee reposed till two hou●es within night After that the Captaine had cryed Ca●e th●anga that is match away we set forward being well gua●ded round about with our Keepers because we entred into a dangerous way and a most desolate and ●abulous 〈◊〉 In all this deformed Countrey wee saw neither House nor Village for it is altogether desartuous and inhabited onely by wild Beasts and naked Arabians Before wee came neere to Sodom and Gomorrah by seven miles for so wee behooved to passe by the East end of it before wee could arrive at that place of Iordan which wee intended we I say incountred with such deep sandy ground that the Mulets were not able to carry our Company through Whereupon they all dismounted wrestling and wading above the middle part of their bodies and sometimes falling in over their heads they were in great danger of perishing although the robustnesse of my body carried mee through on my feete relieving also divers times some of these Friers and Pilgrimes that were almost choaked and over-whelmed with Sand but not for lacke of Wine Even in the middest of this turmoyling paine the night being darke the unwelcomed Arabs environed and invaded us with a storme of Arrows which they sent from the tops of little hard hils whereupon they stood for knowing the advantage of the ground they took opportunity to give the more fearfull assaults yet they prevailed nothing although they wounded some of our souldiers such was the resolute Courage of our valorous Defendants True it is that in all my travailes I was never so sore fatigated nor more fearefully indangered as I was that night A little after midnight these Savages leaving us and we leaving our troublesome way wee accoasted the Lake of Sodome and marched along the marine shoare above nine miles before we came to Iordan This Lake is caled Lacus Asphaltites it yieldeth a kinde of 〈◊〉 named Bitumen Asphaltum the which bituminous savour no living thing can indure And now Mare mortuum a Sea because it is salt and mortuum or dead for that no living thing breeds therein and more properly for this cause called the dead Sea because of it selfe it is unmoveable such is the Leprosie and stability of the water It is also called so because if a Bird flie over it she presently falleth downe therein dead And as Salomon reporteth of it Wisdome 10. 7. it smoketh continually from whence proceedeth filthy Vapours which deforme the fields lying about for certaine miles as it were blasted scorched and made utterly barren this smoake I take onely to be but the exhalation of Iordan For this River falling into it and there ending his course the two contrary natures cannot agree the one being a filthy puddle and the other a pure water as I shall more approbably record This Lake is foure score miles in length and according to its intervalling Circuite sometimes two three foure or five miles in breadth yet the body thereof bending directly South-west keepeth a glassie course till it salute the austere conspicuosity of the fabulous and stony Desarts being compassed with the Rockes of Arabia Petrea on the South On the North with the sandy Hils of the Wildernesse of Iudea on the West with the steepy Mountaines of Arabia deserta and on the East with the plaine of Iericho How commeth it to passe therefore that the fresh running flood of Iordan falling evermore into this bounded Sea that the Lake it selfe never diminisheth nor increaseth but alwayes standeth at one fulnesse neither hath it any issuing forth nor reboundeth backwards on the plaine of Iericho which is one of the greatest Wonders in the World Wherefore as I have said it must needs either exhale to the Clouds or otherwise runne downe to Hell for if it ranne under the Rockes and so burst in the Desarts it would soone
in it and the tast agreeable to disgestion Departing from thence and coasting the maine shoare we had a Moorish Frigot in Chafe where seizing on her we found 16 Moores therein and sixe Christians three Men two Women and a Boy whom they had taken up in going betwene two Townes by the Sea side The Peasants were set at liberty and the Moores immediately preferred to chaines of Iron bloody lashes tugging of Gally oares and perpetual slavery Neere the marine and in sight of Naples wee boorded close by the foote of the Hill Vesuvio which in time past did burne but now extinguished It was here that the elder Pliny who had spent all his time in discovering the secrets of Nature pressing neer to behold it was stifled with the flame so that he dyed in the same place which is most excellently described in the Booke of his Epistles by his Nephew the younger Arriving at Naples I gave joyfull thankes to God for my safe returne to Christendome and the day following I went to review the ancient Monuments of Putzolo or Pute●li Which when I had dilligently remarked in my returne halfe way to Naples I met the aforesaid English Gentleman and Mr. Wood who neeedes would have mee turne backe to accompany them hither When come wee tooke a Guide and so proceeded in our sights the first thing of any note we saw was the stupendious Bridge which Caius Caligula builded betwene Putzolo and Baia over an arme of the Sea two miles broad Some huge Arches Pillars and fragments thereof remaine unruined to this day The next was the new made Mountaine of Sand which hath dryed up Lago Lu●rino being by an Earth quake transported hither at the foote of this ●abulous Hill we saw the remnants of Ciceroes Village Thence wee came to the Temple of Apollo standing on the East side of Lacus Avernus the Walles whereof and pendicles the Tecture excepted are as yet undemolished This Lake Averno is round and hemb'd in about with comely heights being as our Guide reported infinitely deepe and in circuite a short mile The West end whereof is invironed with the Mountaine of Cuma whither Aeneas arrived when hee fled from Dido Queene of Carthage and sister to Pigmalion King of Tyrus Advancing our way along the brinke of the Lake we came to Sybillaes Cave the entry being darke because of the obscure passage between out and cut through the maine Rocke our Guide strooke fire and so with a Flambo marched before us The first passage was exceeding high Cim● and the further end stopped with moulding earth Inclining to our right hand wee passed through a very strait and low passage and so arrived in Sybillaes Chamber which is a delicate Roome and Artificially decored with Mosaicall Worke Here it is said the Divell frequented her Company and where shee wrot her Prophecies From thence hee conducted us through a most intricate and narrow way wherein wee were forced to walke sidling in to a large and vast Room The Rockey vault whereof was hanging full of loose and long stones many of which were fallen to the bottome This great Cell or Hall is a yard deepe of blackish Water and was the dining Room of Sybilla In which hearing toward the further end ascriking noise as if it had beene the croaking of Frogs the hissing of Serpents the bussing of Bees or snarling of Wolves we demanded our Guide from whence such a sound proceeded Who answered they were Dragoris and flying Serpents praying us to Returne for the fellow was mightily affraid Whereat I laughing Replyed there was no such matter and Mr Stydolffe desirous to know it hee onely and I leaving the other two behind us adventured the tryall Having more then halfe way entered in this Sale stepping on huge stones because of the Water and I carrying the Flambo for lacke of aire being so far under ground the light perished Whereupon wee hollowed to our Guide but the Reverberating Eccho avoyded the sense of our words neither would he nor durst hee hazard to support us Meanewhile it being Hell-darke and impossible to find such a difficult way backe and tendering as by duty the worthy Gentleman I stepped downe to my middle thigh in the water wrestling so along to keep him on the dry stones Where indeed I must confesse I grew affrighted for my legs fearing to be interlaced with water Serpents and Snakes for indeede the distracting noise drew nearer and nearer us At last falling neare the voice of our guide who never left shouting wee returned the same way wee came in and so through the other passages till wee were in open fields Here indeede for my too much curiosity I was condiginly requited being all bemired and wet to the middle yet forthwith the vigorous Sunne disburdned mee quickly thereof from thence to be briefe wee came to the Bagni the relicts of Pompeis Village to the fort of Baja and the Laborinth of Ciento Camarello into the admirable fish ponds of Lucullus the coverture of which is supported by 48 naturall pillars of stony earth to the detriments of Messina Mercato sabbato and the Elisian fields Thence wee returned by the sepulcher of Agricula the mother of cruell Nero who slit up her belly to see the matrix wherein he was conceived and by the two decayed Temples of Venus and Mercury Crossing over in a boat to the Towne of Putzolo the chiefe monument wee saw was the ancient Temple of Iupiter who serveth now for their Domo or Parochial Church the latter Idolatry of which is nothing inferiour to the former Meanwhile here arrived the French Gallies fetching home Chevalier du Vandum the Prior of France from Malta Who scouring the coast of the lower Barbary their fortune was to fall upon a misfortunate English ship belonging to Captain Pennington which they as a Cursaro or man of warre confiscated Their Anchors fallen I boorded the Queenes Galley where to my great griefe I found a Countrey-man of speciall acquaintance George Gib of Burowtownnes who was Pilot to the English fast chained to an oare with shaven head and face Who had his owne shippe twice seased on by the Turkes at Mamora which ship he lastly recovered at the Isle Sardinia and sold her at Naples being miserably worme eaten To whose undeserved miseries in my charitable love I made a Christian oath that at my arrivall in England I should procure by the helpe of his friends his Majesties letters to the Duke of Guyse Admirall for hindeliverance But soon thereafter being of a great spirit his heart broak and so died in Marseiles Tempora labuntur tacitisque senescimus annis Et fugiuunt fraeno non remorante Dies Times slide away grey heires come postring on No reyne can hold our days so swiftly gon Departing from Putzolo we came to the Selphatara where the fine Brimstone is made which is a prety incircling Plain standing upon a moderate hight having three vents through two of which the
smoaking flame ariseth the other produceth no fire but after an excessive raine surgeth six foote high with black boyling water which continueth so long as the raine lasteth From thence our Guide leaving us we came to Grotto di cane wherein if a Dogge be cast he well suddenly die and taken thence and cast in the Lake he will forthwith revive this Grotto or Cave standeth on the side and root of a sulphure hill the brinke of Lago di Avagno We desirous to make triall of a Dog and finding the fellow that purposely stayeth there somewhat extortionable I adventured in stead of a Dog to make tryall of my selfe Whereupon Master Stydolffe holding up the quarrered doore I entered to the further end thereof bringing back a warme stone in each hand from thence whereat the Italians swore I was a Divell and not a man for behold say they there was a French Gentleman the former yeare who in a bravado would needes goe in whereupon he was presently stifled to death and here lyeth buried at the mouth of the Grotto to serve for a caveat to all rash and unadvised strangers to doe the like The relation indeede was true put I counting nothing of it would needes sore against the Gentleman and Master Woods will goe in againe where entred to the bottome being ten paces long the moyst and choaking heat did so suffocate and benumbe my senses that with much adoe I returned backe where receiving the fresh aire and a little Wine I presently forgot my former trance which when the Dog-keeper saw hee for an easie composition made triall of his Dog and having tyed a string to his hinder leg he cast the Dog scarce halfe way in the Cave where immediately his tongue hanging out he fell downe dead And forthwith his Master repulling him backe cast him in the Lake powring in water in his eares but hee never could recover his life Whereupon the poore man cryed out alas I am undone what shall I doe the Dog that wonne my daily fo●d is dead in compassion whereof the worthy Gentleman doubled his wages In our way and returne to Naples we passed through Virgils Grot being halfe a mile long and cut through a the maine body of a Rocke whereby the Mountaine of Cataja by the Sea-side is made passable at the East end whereof neare the Cyme of the vault is Virgils Tombe and arrived at Naples Mr. William Stydolffe reporting to divers of his Countrey Gentlemen and mine of mine adventure in Grotto di Cane they could hardly be perswaded to believe it But when avouched they all avowed I had done that so did divers Neapolitans which never man had done before me reserving life Bidding farewell to my generous friends I marched through Terra di lavora and in the way of Saint Germane and Mount Cassino to Rome within ten miles of Capua I found the poorest Bishop Nomen sine re the world affoordeth having no more nor never had he nor any before him than dui Carolini or Iuletti twelve pence a day to spend So is there many a Marquesse Earle Baron and Knight in Italy who is unable at one time to keepe a foote-man at his heels a Dog at his foote a Horse betweene his legs a good suit of clothes on his backe and his belly well ●ed so glorious are their stiles and so miserable their revenewes Touching at Rome I secretly borrowed one nights lodging there and at the breake of day another houres sight and conference with my Couzen Simeon Grahame who ere the Sunne arose crossing Ponto flamingo brought mee on in my journey till a high way Taverne like a jayle held us both fast where leaving our reciprocall loues behind vs wee divided our bodies East and West And now ere I leave Rome I thinke it best to let our Papists here at home see the shamefull lives cruell deaths of most of their Popes beyond Seas which their own best Authors in France Italy and Spain having justly and condignely avouched and recorded authorized also to light by their prime powers civil spirituall The Papists generally hold that in their popes is all power Super omnes Potestates tam Coeli quam Terrae above all powers both in Heaven and Earth They terme him Alter Deus in Terris a second God upon the Earth Deus mortalis in terris ei immortalis homo in Coelis a mortall God upon the Earth and an Immortall man in the Heavens Some of them have allotted that hee is Non Deus non homo sed utrunque neither God nor man but both The popes former title was Servus servorum Dei and they call him Rex Regum Dominus Dominantium King of Kings and Lord of Lords Paul the third entering Tolentino in the vale of Ombria joyning with Tuscany had this salutation Paulo tertio Maximo in terris Deo to Paul the Third the best and greatest God on earth Then since they will have them Gods above the God of Gods tel me I pray you what a May pole Dauncer was Iohn 12 alias 13 of 18 yeares old who made the Lateran their great Church in Rome a plaine Stew or Brothel house What a pope-boy of twelve yeares old was Benedict the ninth and after wrought by inchantments Another Pope they had whom they called Vnum pecus in eo quod de mane faciebat gratiam de sero revocabat A very Asse for in the morning hee would grant many great kindnesses and at night revoke them all againe What a thiefe was pope Boniface the seventh who robbed St. Peters Church what a Sodomiticall Pope was Sixtus the fourth who builded Stews of both kindes granting his Cardinalls the use of Sodomy for three whole moneths What an Atheisticall pope was Leo the tenth who called the Gospel a Fable What a Hereticall pope was Honorius the first who by sixe generall Councels was condemned for a Monothelite What a perjured Pope was Gregory the twelfth and openly forsworne What a Negromancer was Silvester the second who gave himselfe both soule and body to the divell to attain the Popedome What was Pope Iohn the eleventh but a bastardly brat to pope Sergius What a sorcerer Charmer and Conjurer was Hildebrand called Gregory the seventh given to all beastlinesse and diabolicall practices this was hee that threw the Sacrament in the fire what was Innocent the third who was branded with this black mark non est Innocentius imo nocens vere he is not innocent but very nocent What a wicked and cruell murtherer was Iohn the twelfth a Romane borne who caused to cut off the nose of one Cardinall and the thumbe of another Cardinall onely because they had wrote the whole tract of his abominable vices to the Emperour Otho What an inhumane and homicidious Pope was Stephanus the seventh who after hee had cancelled the decrees of his predecessor Formosus caused to deterre his dead body cut off his fingers and lay him in the
of the reformed Order 〈◊〉 S. Francis for begetting fifteene young Noble Nunnes ●ith child and all within one yeare he being also their ●●ther Confessor Whereat I sprung forward through 〈◊〉 throng and my friend followed me and came just to 〈◊〉 pillar as the halfe of his body and right arme fell flat●●gs in the fire the Frier was forty sixe yeares old and had bin Confessor of th●t 〈◊〉 of 〈…〉 yeares Most of th●se young Nunnes were Senators daughters and two of them were onely come in to learne vertue and yet fell in the midst of vice These fifteene with Child were all recald 〈…〉 their fathers Pallaces the Lady Prioresse and the rest of her 〈◊〉 crew were banished for ever from the precincts of Venice The Monastery was razed to the ground their Rents were allowed to be bestowed upon poore families and distressed age and their Church 〈◊〉 bee converted to an Hospitall Most part of all which M. 〈◊〉 and I saw before ever we either eate dranke or ●ooke our lodging in Venice And I cannot forget how after all this wee being in hungred and also 〈◊〉 tumbled in by chance All 〈…〉 the greatest 〈◊〉 in all Venice neere to which the Friars bones were 〈◊〉 burning And calling for a Chamber wee were nobly and richly served After dinner they laid up our budgets and our burthens and abroad went we to see the 〈◊〉 Night come wee sup'd and sup'd alone the 〈…〉 I begun to remarke the grandeur of the Inne and 〈◊〉 was time that we were gone I demanded our 〈◊〉 what was to pay hee answered Vn s●udo all 〈◊〉 par 〈◊〉 ripasto a Crowne the dyet for each of us being ten Iule●s or five shillings 〈◊〉 Mr. Arthur looked uppon me and I laugh'd 〈…〉 a word our dinner 〈…〉 foure Crownes whereat my companion being discontented ●ad the Divell be in the Friars ballocks for wee had paid soundly for his Leachery many like deaths 〈…〉 causes and worser have I seene in all my three 〈◊〉 if time could permit me to 〈◊〉 them But from this thou mayst play the learned Geometrician till 〈◊〉 findest more and opportunity give thee occasion Cingitur urbs Venetum pelago ditissima nummis This Towne most rich to dare the Maine is shut In Neptunes bosome and sea-streeted cu● Venice is a Garden of riches and wordly pleasures the chiefe flowre of Common-weales and the perfect mirr●ur of civill and politicke Governement This sequestrat City is situate in the bosome of Neptune and divided from the world with a part of his maine body which invironeth the Iland The Common-we●lth of Venice containeth Marcha del Trevisa which lyeth in Lombardy containing these Cities Trevisa Padua Vincenza Verona Brisc●a the second City for bignesse and beauty in all Lombardy Ber●●mo Chizza and Rovigno Friuli formerly called Fo●●m Iulij lyeth in the straight betweene the East end of the ●lpes and the sea Adriaticke in length fifty in breadth forty miles It hath beene often subject to the vicissitude of ●ortune The chiefe towne is Treista in the bottome of 〈◊〉 gulfe and Palma lately built by the Venetians 158● ●eing the most impregnable and best fortified towne in ●●aly Furili was a Dukedome founded by the Lombards 〈◊〉 the beginning of the Venetian Common-wealth After●ard Luitprandus one of the Dukes envying the encrease of the dominion of Venice made war against them which ended in the losse of his owne country The rest bee Istria a part of Dalmatia the Ilands of Candy Corfue Zante ●ephalonia Serigo Tino Valdi Campare Lesina and o●her of lesser note The Venetians howsoever of old they have bin great ●arriers they are now more desirous to keepe then in●arge their Dominions and that by presents and money rather than by the sword of true valour so that whatsoever they loose by battell it is observed they recover againe by treaties The Venetians are said to have discended of the Hennets in Asia lesser who assisting the Trojans and Troy being lost their King Pterilimene slaine they fled away with Antenor and ariving in this part of Italy seated themselves till the report of the Hunnes designe against Italy made them avoyding the storme before it fell to draw into these Ilands and Marishes where now it standeth It was first founded and begun Anno. 411. March 25. being distant from the maine land five miles and defended against the fury of the sea by the banke extending to fifty miles in length through which in eight places there is passage broken for small boates but no way for vessels of any burthen save at Malamucco and the Castle of Lio Yea and so dangerous that there is neither out-going nor in-comming without a Pylot which maketh the City unconquerable This City is seven miles in compasse and from so base an abject beginning it is growne as it were to bee the chiefe bulwarke of Europe The Duke of this Adriaticke Queene espouseth the sea every Ascension day by casting a golden ring into it Which stu●titious ceremony by Pope Alexander the third was granted when hee fled to Venice for succour being persecuted by Fredericke Barbarossa And the Venetians vanquishing Otho the Emperours sonne restored the Pope and for a reward was honoured with this espousall The length of the Territory of Venice in Lombardy lying along the foote and South side of the Alpes amounteth to sixe score five miles the breadth whereof in the plan●re is narrow but stripeth larger among the hills and lakes and very populous The applauding Italian saith that Europe is the head of the World Italy the face of Europe and Venice the eye of Italy and indeed it is the strongest and most active part of that powerfull body Whereby it would appeare that in the last subversion of the latter Monarchy the Romane Genius made a Pythagoricall transmigration into Venic● whose peace hath procured the plenty and whose Warres the peace of Christendome The Lawes of this City permit not the younger sonnes of the best Gentry to marry least the number increasing should deminish the dignity yet neverthelesse they permit them unlawfull pleasures and for their sakes allow publicke stewes The Iewes here and in Rome weare red and yellow hats for notice sake to distinguish them from others which necessary custome would to God were enjoyned to all the Papists here in England so should we easily discerne them from the true Christians And finally to discourse upon the provision of their magnificent Arsenall Artillery Munition and Armor the devision of streetes with channels the innumerable bridges of stone and timber their accustomable kind of living apparrell curtesies and conventions and finally the glory of Gallants Gal●eries Gallies Galleasses and Galliouns were a thing impossible for me briefly to relate Wherefore since the situation thereof and the decorements of their beautifull Palaces are so well knowne and their generall Customes by the better sort I desist concluding thus this incomparable mansion is the onely Paragon of all Cities in
came in bed for my lodging was in a little Chappell a mile without the Village on hard stones where I also had a fire and dressed my meate The Greekes visited mee oftentimes intreated me above all things I should not enter within the bounds of their Sanctuary because I was not of their Religion But I in regard of the longsome and cold nights was inforced every night to creepe in the midst of the Sanctuary to keepe my selfe warme which Sanctuary was nothing but an Altar hemb'd in with a partition wall about my height dividing the little roome from the body of the Chappell These miserable Ilanders are a kind of silly poore people which in their behaviour shewed the necessity they had to live rather then any pleasure in their living From thence I imbarked on a small barke of ten Tunnes come from Scithia in Candy and loaden with Oyle and about mid-day we arrived in the I le of Mecano where wee but only dined and so set forward to Zea. This Mecano was formerly called Delos famous for the Temple of Apollo being the chiefe I le of the Cyclades the rest of the 54. incircling it Delos signifieth apparant because at the request of Iuno when all the earth had abjured the receipt of Latona This Iland then under the water was by Iupiter erected aloft and fixt to receive her wherein she was delivered of Apollo and Diana erratica Delos c. Ovid. Vnsetled Delos floating on the maine Did wandring Laton kindly entertaine In spight of Juno fatned with loves balme Was brought to bed under Minerva's palme In this I le they retaine a Custome neither permitting men to dye or children to be borne in it but alwayes when men fall sicke and women grow great bellied they send them to Rhena a small Isoletta and two miles distant Zea to which we arrived from Mecano was so called of Zeo the sonne of Phebo and of some Tetrapoli because of the foure Cityes that were there of old Symonides the Poet and Eristato the excellent Physitian were borne in it The next Isle of any note we touched at was Tino This Island is under the Signory of Venice and was sometimes beautified with the Temple of Neptune By Aristotle it was called Idrusa of Demosthenes and Eschines Erusea It hath an impregnable Castle builded on the top of a high Rocke towards the East end or Promontore of the Isle and ever provided with three yeares provision and a Garrison of two hundred Souldiers So that the Turkes by no means can conquer it The Isle it selfe is twenty Miles in length and a great refuge for all Christian ships and Gallyes that haunt in the Levante From this Isle I came to Palmosa sometimes Pathmos which is a Mountainous and barren Iland It was here that Saint Iohn wrote the Revelation after he was banished by Domitianus the Emperour Thence I imbarked to Nicaria and sailed by the Isle Scyro which of old was the Signory of Licomedes and in the habit of a woman was Achilles brought up here because his Mother being by an Oracle premonished that he should be killed in the Trojan Warre sent him to this Island where he was maiden-like brought up amongst the Kings Daughters who in that time begot Pyrhus upon Deidamia the daughter of Licomedes and where the crafty Vlysses afterward did discover this fatall Prince to Troy As we fetched up the sight of Nicaria wee espyed two Turkish Galleots who gave us the Chase and pursued us straight to a Bay betwixt two Mountaines where wee left the loaden Boat and fled to the Rocks from whence wee mightily annoyed with huge tumbling stones the pursuing Turks But in our flying the Master was taken and other two old men whom they made captives and slaves and also seized upon the Boat and all their goods The number of us that escaped were nine persons This Isle Nicaria was anciently called Doliche and Ithiosa and is somwhat barren having no Sea-port at all It was here the Poets feigned that Icarus the sonne of Dedalus fell when as hee tooke flight from Creta with his borrowed wings of whom it hath the name and not following directly his father Dedalus was here drowned Dum petit infirmis nimium sublimiae pennis Icarus Icariis nomina fecit aquis Whiles Icarus weak wings too high did flye He fell and baptiz'd the Icarian Sea So many moe experience may account That both above their minds and means would mount Expecting certaine dayes here in a Village called Laphantos for passage to Sio at last I found a Brigandino bound thither that was come from the fruitfull Isle of Stalimene of old Lemnos This Isle of Stalimene is in circuit 90 miles where in Hephestia it's Metropolis Vulcan was mightily adored who being but a homely brat was cast down hither by Iuno whereby it was no marvaile if he became crooked and went a halting The sovereigne minerall against infections called Teera Lamnia or Sigillata is digged here The former name proceedeth from the Island The latter is in force because the earth being made up in little pellets is sealed with a Turkish Signe● and so sold and dispersed over Christendome Having embarked in the aforesaid Brigandine wee sayled by the Isle Samos which is opposite to Caria in Asia minor where the Tyrant Policrates lived so fortunate as hee had never any mischance all this time till at last Orientes a Persian brought him to a miserable death Leaving us an example that fortune is certaine in nothing but in incertainties who like a Bee with a sharp sting hath alwayes some miserie following a long concatenation of felicities It is of circuit 160 and of length 40 miles it was of old named Driusa and Melanphilo in which Pythagor as the Phylosopher and Lycaon the excellent Musicioner were born Upon our left hand and opposite to Samos lyeth the Isle of Nixia formerly Maxos in circuit 68 miles It was also called the Isle of Venus and Dionisia and was taken from the Venetians by Selim the father of Solyman East from Nixia lieth the Isle Amurgospolo in circuit twenty leagues it hath three commodious Ports named St. Anna Calores and Cataplino A little from hence and in sight of Natolia lyeth the Isle Calamo formerly Claros in circuit thirty miles and Eastward thence the little Isle of Lerno five leagues in circuit all inhabited with Greeks and they the silly ignorants of Nature South-east from this lyeth the Isle of Coos now Lango by the Turks called Stanccow the Capitall Towne is Arango where Hypocrates and Apelles the Painter were borne In this Isle there is a Wine named by the Greeks Hyppocon that excelleth in sweetnesse all other Wines except the Malvasie and it aboundeth in Cypre and Turpentine trees There is here a part of the Isle disinhabited in regard of a contagious Lake that infecteth the ayre both Summer and Winter There is abundance of Alloes found here so much esteemed
left arme his body fast to the Rock keeping strongly my right shoulder to the same place For I could not have saved my selfe and letting him fall but he would have caught me head-long with him over the Rock And yet the Germans cried still to me Lascia ti quel furfanto cascar alla fondo conil Diavolo esalva caro fratello la vita vostra viz. Let that Villaine fall to the ground with the Divell and save O deare brother your own life But I neither would nor durst at last his feare by my incouragement having left him I suffered him to slide s●ftly down between my arme and the Ro●k to the solid path Where by and by hee fell downe upon his knees and gave me a thousand blessings vowing for this hee would do me a great good deed before I left Ierusalem At last towards the afternoon wee safely arrived at the foot of the Mountaine and having saluted the Guardian and all the rest who then were ready to take journey the Frier told his Reverence how I had saved his life Whereupon the Guardian and the other Friers did imbrace mee kindly in their arms giving mee many earnest and loving thanks And now the Souldiers and we being advanced in our Way as wee returned to Ierusalem wee marched by an old Ruinous Abbey where say they Saint Ierome dwelt and was fed there by wilde Lions Having travailed sore and hard that afternoone wee arrived at Ierusalem an houre within night for the Gate was kept open a purpose for us and our Guard and entring our Monastery wee supped and rested our selves till midnight having marched that halfe day more then 34 miles A little before midnight the Guardian and the Friers were making themselves ready to go with us to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre called Sancto Salvatore where we were to stay Good-friday and Saturday and Easter-Sunday till mid-night They tooke their Cooke with them also to dresse our Diet carrying Wine Bread Fishes and Fruits hither in abundance Mean while a Iew the Trench-man of the Turkish Sanzacke came to the Monastery and received from every one of us Pilgrimes first two Chickeens of Gold for our severall heads and entry at Ierusalem and then nine Chickeens a piece for our in going to the Holy Grave and a Chickeen of gold a man to himselfe the Iew as being due to his place Thus was there twelve Chickeens from each of us dispatched for the Turke And last one and all of us behoved to give to the Guardian two Chickeens also for the Waxe Candles and Fooleries he was to spend in their idle and superstitious Ceremonies these three aforesaid nights which amounted in all to every one of us to fourteen Chickeens of gold six pounds six shillings sterling So that in the whole from the six Germans foure Frenchmen and nine commercing Franks in Cyprus and Syria Venetians and Ragusans and from my selfe the summe arose for this nights labour to a hundred and twenty six pounds sterling This done and at full mid-night wee came to the Church where wee found twelve Venerable like Turkes readie to receive us sitting in the Porch without the Doore who forthwith opened at randon the two great Brazen halfes of the Doore and received us very respectively We being within the doore made fast and the Turks returned to the Castle the first place of any note wee saw was the place of Unction which is a foure squared stone inclosed about with an iron Revele on which say they the dead body of our Saviour lay and was imbalmed after hee was taken from the Crosse whiles Ioseph of Arimathea was preparing that new Sepulcher for him wherein never man lay from thence wee came to the holy Grave Leaving Mount Calvary on our right hand toward the East end of the Church for they are both contained within this glorious edifice The Holy Grave is covered with a little Chappell standing within a round Quiere in the west end of the Church It hath two low and narrow entries as wee entred the first doore three after three and our shooes cast off for these two roomes are wondrous little the Guardiano fell downe ingenochiato and kissed a stone whereupon hee said the Angell stood when Mary Magdalen came to the Sepulchre to know if Christ was risen on the third day as he promised And within the entry of the second doore wee saw the place where Christ our Messias was buried and prostrating our selves in great humility every man according to his Religion offered up his prayers to God The Sepulcher it selfe is eight foote and a halfe in length and advanced about three foote in height from the ground and three foote five inches broad being covered with a faire Marble stone of white colour In this Chappell and ab●ut it I meane without the utter sides of it and the inward incirclings of the compassing Quiere there are alwayes burning above fifty Lampes of oyle maintained by Christian Princes who stand most of them within incircling bands of pure Gold which is exceeding sumptuous having the names of those who sent or gave them ingraven upon the upper edges of the round circles each of them having three degrees and each degree depending upon another with supporters of pure Gold rich and glorious The fairest whereof was sent thither by King Iohn of England whereon I saw his Name his Title and Crowne curiously indented I demanded the Guardiano if any part of the Tombe was here yet extant who replied there was but because said he Christians resorting thither being devoutly moved with affection to the place carried away a good part thereof which caused S. Helen inclose it under this stone whereby some relicts of it should alwayes remaine I make no doubt but that same place is Golgotha where the holy Grave was as may appeare by the distance betweene Mount Calvary and this sacred Monument which extendeth to forty of my paces This Chappell is outwardly decored with 15 coupell of Marble Pillars and of 22 foote high and above the upper coverture of the same Chappell there is a little six-angled Turret made of Cedar wood covered with Lead and beautified with sixe small Columnes of the same tree The chappell it selfe standeth in a demicircle or halfe Moone having the little doore or entry looking East to the great body of the Church and to Mount Calvary being opp●site to many other venerable monuments of memorable majesties The forme of the Quier wherein it standeth is like unto the ancient Rotundo in Rome but a great deale higher and larger having two gorgeous Galleries one above another and adorned with magnificent Columnes being open at the top with a large round which yeeldeth to the heavens the prospect of that most sacred place In which second Gallery we strangers reposed all these three nights we remayned there whence wee had the full prospect of all the spacious Church and all the Orientall people were there at this great