Coast of Portabell nor so frequent The Westerly winds in the Westerly wind season blow here tho not so strong nor lasting as on the Coasts of Cartagene and Portabell When we had spent some time here we return'd again towards the Coast of Cartagene and being between Rio Grande and that place we met with Westerly winds which kept us still to the Eastward of Cartagene 3 or 4 days and then in the morning we descryed a Sail off at Sea and we chaced her at noon Captain Wright who sailed best came up with her and engaged her and in half an hour after Captain Yanky who sailed better than the Tartan the Vessel that I was in came up with her likewise and laid her aboard then Captain Wright also and they took her before we came up They lost 2 or 3 men and had 7 or 8 wounded The Prize was a Ship of 12 Guns and 40 men who had all good small Arms She was laden with Sugar and Tobacco and had 8 or 10 Tuns of Marmalett on board She came from Saint Jago on Cuba and was bound to Cartagene We went back with her to Rio Grande to fix our Rigging which was shattered in the Fight and to consider what to do with her for these were commodities of little use to us and not worth going into a Port with At the Rio Grande Captain Wright demanded the Prize as his due by virtue of his Commission Captain Yanky said it was his due by the Law of Privateers Indeed Captain Wright had the most right to her having by his Commission protected Captain Yanky from the French who would have turned him out because he had no Commission and he likewise began to engage her first But the Company were all afraid that Captain Wright would presently carry her into a Port therefore most of Captain Wright's Men stuck to Captain Yanky and Captain Wright losing his Prize burned his own Bark and had Captain Yankys's it being bigger than his own the Tartan was sold to a Jamaica Trader and Captain Yanky commanded the Prize Ship We went again from hence to Rio la Hach and set the Prisoners ashore and it being now the beginning of November we concluded to go to Querisao to sell our Sugar if favoured by westerly Winds which were now come in We sailed from thence having fair weather and Winds to our mind which brought us to Querisao a Dutch Island Captain Wright went ashore to the Governour and offered him the Sale of the Sugar but the Governor told him he had a great Trade with the Spaniards therefore he could not admit us in there but if we would go to St. Thomas which is an Island and Free Port belonging to the Danes and a Sanctuary for Privateers he would send a Sloop with such Goods as we wanted and Money to buy the Sugar which he would take at a certain rate but it was not agreed to Querisao is the only Island of importance that the Dutch have in the West-Indies It is about 5 leagues in length and may be 9 or 10 in circumference the Northernmost point is laid down in North lat 12 d. 40 m. and it is about 7 or 8 leagues from the Main near Cape Roman On the South side of the East end is a good harbour called Santa Barbara but the chiefest harbour is about 3 leagues from the S. E. end on the South side of it where the Dutch have a very good Town and a very strong Fort. Ships bound in thither must be sure to keep close to the Harbour's mouth and have a Hasar or Rope ready to send one end ashore to the Fort for there is no Anchoring at the entrance of the Harbour and the Current always sets to the Westward But being got in it is a very secure Port for Ships either to Careen or lye safe At the East end are two hills one of them is much higher than the other and steepest toward the North side The rest of the Island is indifferent level where of late some rich Men have made Sugar works which formerly was all pasture for Cattle there are also some small Plantations of Potatoes and Yames and they have still a great many Cattle on the Island but it is not so much esteemed for its produce as for its situation for the Trade with the Spaniard Formerly the Harbour was never without Ships from Cartagenâ—… and Portabell that did use to buy of the Dutch here 1000 or 1500 Negroes at once besides great quantities of European Commodities but of late that Trade is fallen into the hands of the English at Jamaica yet still the Dutch have a vast Trade over all the West Indies sending from Holland Ships of good force laden with European goods whereby they make very profitable returns The Dutch have two other Islands here but of little moment in comparison of Querisao the one lieth 7 or 8 leagues to the Westward of Querisao called Aruba the other 9 or 10 leagues to the Eastward of it called Bon-Airy From these Islands the Dutch fetch in Sloops Provision for Querisao to maintain their Garrison and Negroes I was never at Aruba therefore cannot say any thing of it as to my own knowledge but by report it is much like Bon-Airy which I shall describe only not so big Between Querisao and Bon-Airy is a small Island called Little Querisao it is not above a league from Great Querisao The King of France has long had an eye on Querisao and made some attempts to take it but never yet succeeded I have heard that about 23 or 24 years since the Governour had sold it to the French but dy'd a small time before the Fleet came to demand it and by his death that design fail d. Afterwards in the year 1678 the Count D Estre who a year before had taken the Isle of Tobago from the Dutch was sent hither also with a Squadron of stout Ships very well mann'd and fitted with Bombs and Carcasses intending to take it by storm This Fleet first came to Martinico where while they stay'd orders were sent to Petit-Guavers for all Privateers to repair thither and assist the Count in his design There were but two Privateers Ships that went thither to him which were mann'd partly with French partly with English men These set out with the Count but in their way to Querisao the whole Fleet was lost on a Riff or Ridge of Rocks that runs off from the Isle of Aves not above two Ships escaping one of which was one of the Privateers and so that design perished Wherefore not driving a bargain for our Sugar with the Governour of Querisao we went from thence to Bon-Airy another Dutch Island where we met a Dutch Sloop come from Europe laden with Irish Beef which we bought in exchange for some of our Sugar Bon-Airy is the Eastermost of the Dutch Islands and is the largest of the three tho not the most considerable The middle of the Island is laid
himself very well for here lay driven on the Island Masts Yards Timbers and many things that he wanted therefore he hal'd into the Harbour close to the Island and unrigg'd his Ship Before he had done a Dutch Ship of 20 Guns was sent from Querisao to take up the Guns that were lost on the Riff But seeing a Ship in the Harbour and knowing her to be a French Privateer they thought to take her first and came within a mile of her and began to fire at her intending to warp in the next day for it is very narrow going in Captain Pain got ashore some of his Guns and did what he could to resist them tho he did in a manner conclude he must be taken But while his men were thus busied he spy'd a Dutch Sloop turning to get into the Road and saw her in the evening anchor at the West end of the Island This gave him some hope of making his escape which he did by sending two Canoas in the night aboard the Sloop who took her and got considerable purchase in her and he went away in her making a good Reprizal and leaving his own empty Ship to the Dutch Man of War There is another Island to the Eastward of the Isle of Aves about 4 leagues called by Privateers the littleIsle of Aves which is overgrown with Mangrove-trees I have seen it but was never on it There are no Inhabitants that I could learn on either of these Islands but Boobies and a few other Birds While we were at the Isle of Aves we careen'd Captain Wright s Bark and scrubb'd the Sugar-prize and got 2 Guns out of the Wrecks continuing here till the beginning of Feb. 1681 2. We went from hence to the Isles Roca's to careen the Sugar-prize which the Isle of Aves was not a place so convenient for Accordingly we haled close to one of the small Islands and got our Guns ashore the first thing we did and built a Breastwork on the point and planted all our Guns there to hinder an Enemy from coming to us while we lay on the Careen Then we made a House and cover d it with our Sails to put our goods and provisions in While we lay here a French Man of War of 36 Guns came thro the Keys or Little Islands to whom we sold about 10 Tun of Sugar I was aboard twice or thrice and very kindly welcomed both by the Captain and his Lieutenant who was a Cavalier of Malta and they both offer d me great encouragement in France if I would go with them but I ever design'd to continue with those of my own Nation The Islands Roca s are a parcel of small uninhabited Islands lying about the Lat. of 11 d. 40 〈◊〉 about 15 or 16 leagues from the Main and about 20 leagues N. W. b. W. from Tortuga and 6 or 7 leagues to the Westward of Orchilla another Island lying about the same distance from the Main which Island I have seen but was never at it Roca's stretch themselves East and West about 5 leagues and their breadth is about 3 leagues The northernmost of these Islands is the most remarkable by reason of a high white rocky Hill at the West end of it which may be seen a great way and on it there are abundance of Tropick Birds Men of War Booby and Noddys which breed there The Booby and Man of War I have described already The Noddy is a small Black Bird much about the bigness of the English Black-bird and indifferent good meat They build in Rocks We never find them far off from Shore I have seen of them in other places but never saw any of their Nests but in this Island where there is great plenty of them The Tropick Bird is as big as a Pigeon but round and plump like a Partridge They are all white except two or three Feathers in each Wing of a light grey Their Bills are of a yellowish colour thick and short They have one long Feather or rather a Quill about 7 inches long grows out at the Rump which is all the Tail they have They are never seen far without either Tropick for which reason they are called Tropick-birds They are very good food and we meet with them a great way at Sea and I never saw of them any where but at Sea and in this Island where they build and are found in great plenty By the Sea on the South side of that high Hill there is fresh Water comes out of the Rocks but so slowly that it yields not above 40 gallons in 24 hours and it tastes so copperish or aluminous rather and rough in the mouth that it seems very unpleasant at first drinking but after 2 or 3 days any other Water will seem to have no taste The middle of this Island is low plain Land overgrown with long Grass where there are multitudes of small grey Fowls no bigger than a Black-bird yet lay Eggs bigger than a Magpy's and they are therefore by Privateers called Egg-birds The East end of the Island is overgrown with black Mangrove Trees There are three sorts of Mangrove-Trees black red and white The black Mangrove is the largest Tree the body about as big as an Oak and about 20 feet high It is very hard and serviceable Timber but extraordinary heavy therefore not much made use of for building The red Mangrove groweth commonly by the Sea side or by Rivers or Creeks The body is not so big as that of the black Mangrove but always grows out of many roots about the bigness of a Mans Leg some bigger some less which at about 6 8 or 10 foot above the ground joyn into one trunk or body that seems to be supported by so many artificial Stakes Where this sort of Tree grows it is impossible to march by reason of these Stakes which grow so mixt one among another that I have when forced to go through them gone half a mile and never set my foot on the ground stepping from root to root The Timber is hard and good for many uses The inside of the Bark is red and it is used for tanning of Leather very much all over the West Indies The white Mangrove never groweth so big as the other two sorts neither is it of any great use Of the young Trees Privateers use to make Looms or Handles for their Oars for it is commonly strait but not very strong which is the fault of them Neither the black nor white Mangrove grow towering up from stilts or rising roots as the red doth but the body immediately out of the ground like other Trees The Land of this East end is light Sand which is sometimes overflown with the Sea at Spring-tides The Road for Ships is on the South side against the middle of the Island The rest of the Islands of Roca's are low The next to this on the South side is but small flat and even without Trees bearing only Grass On the South side of it
is a Pond of brackish Water which sometimes Privateers use instead of better there is likewise good riding by it About a league from this are two other Islands not 200 yards distant from each other yet a deep Channel for Ships to pass through They are both overgrown with red Mangrove Trees which Trees above any of the Mangroves do flourish best in wet drowned Land such as these two Islands are only the East point of the Westernmost Island is dry Sand without Tree or Bush On this point we careened lying on the South side of it The other Islands are low and have red Mangroves and other Trees on them Here also Ships may ride but no such place for careening as where we lay because at that place Ships may hale close to the shore and if they have but four Guns on the point may secure the Channel and hinder any Enemy from coming near them I observ'd that within among the Islands was good riding in many places but not without the Islands except to the West-ward or S. West of them For on the East or N. E. of these Islands the common Trade-Wind blows and makes a great Sea and to the South-ward of them there is no ground under 70 80 or 100 fathom close by the Land After we had filled what Water we could from hence we set out again in April 1682. and came to Salt-Tortuga so called to distinguish it from the shoals of Dry Tortugas near Cape Florida and from the Isle of Tortugas by Hispaniola which was called formerly French Tortugas though not having heard any mention of that name a great while I am apt to think it is swallow'd up in that of Petit-Guavres the chief Garrison the French have in those parts This Island we arrived at is pretty large uninhabited and abounds with Salt It is in Lat. 11 degrees North and lyeth West and a little Northerly from Margarita an Island inhabited by the Spaniards strong and wealthy it is distant from it about 14 leagues and 17 or 18 from Cape Blanco on the Main A Ship being within these Islands a little to the South-ward may see at once the Main Margarita and Tortuga when it is clear weather The East end of Tortuga is full of rugged bare broken Rocks which stretch themselves a little way out to Sea At the S. E. part is an indifferent good Road for Ships much frequented in peaceable times by Merchant-ships that come hither to lade Salt in the months of May June July and August For at the East end is a large Salt-pond within 200 paces of the Sea The Salt begins to kern or grain in April except it is a dry season for it is observed that rain makes the Salt kern I have seen above 20 Sail at a time in this road come to lade Salt and these Ships coming from some of the Caribbe Islands are always well stored with Rum Sugar and Lime-juice to make Punch to hearten their Men when they are at work getting and bringing aboard the Salt and they commonly provide the more in hopes to meet with Privateers who resort hither in the aforesaid months purposely to keep a Christmas as they call it being sure to meet with Liquor enough to be merry with and are very liberal to those that treat them Near the West end of the Island on the South side there is a small Harbour and some fresh Water That end of the Island is full of shrubby Trees but the East end is rocky and barren as to Trees producing only course Grass There are some Goats on it but not many and Turtle or Tortise come upon the sandy Bays to lay their Eggs and from them the Island hath its Name There is no riding any where but in the Road where the Salt-Ponds are or in the Harbour At this Isle we thought to have sold our Sugar among the English Ships that come hither for Salt but failing there we design'd for Trinidada an Island near the Main inhabited by the Spaniards tolerably strong and wealthy but the Current and Easterly Winds hindering us we passed through between Margarita and the Main and went to Blanco a pretty large Island almost North of Margarita about 30 leagues from the Main and in 11 d. 50 m. North Lat. It is a flat even low uninhabited Island dry and healthy most Savanah of long Grass and hath some Trees of Lignum Vitae growing in Spots with shrubby Bushes of other Wood about them It is plentifully stored with Guano s which are an Animal like a Lizard but much bigger The body is as big as the small of a mans leg and from the hind quarter the tail grows tapering to the end which is very small If a Man takes hold of the tail except very near the hind quarter it will part and breakoff in one of the joints and the Guano will get away They lay Eggs as most of those amphibious creatures do and are very good to eat Their flesh is much esteemed by Privateers who commonly dress them for their sick men for they make very good Broath They are of divers colours as almost black dark brown light brown dark green light green yellow and speckled They all live as well in the Water as on Land and some of them are constantly in the Water and among Rocks These are commonly black Others that live in swampy wet ground are commonly on Bushes and Trees these are green But such as live in dry ground as here at Blanco are commonly yellow yet these also will live in the Water and are sometimes on Trees The Road is on the N. W. end against a small Cove or little sandy Bay There is no riding any where else for it is deep water and steep close to the Land There is one small Spring on the West side and there are sandy Bays round the Island where Turtle or Tortoise come up in great abundance going ashore in the night These that frequent this Island are called green Turtle and they are the best of that sort both for largeness and sweetness of any in all the West Indies I would here give a particular description of these and other sorts of Turtle in these Seas but because I shall have occasion to mention some other sorts of Turtle when I come again into the South Seas that are very different from all these I shall there give a general account of all these several sorts at once that the difference between them may be the better discerned Some of our modern Descriptions speak of Goats on this Island I know not what there may have been formerly but there are none now to my certain knowledge for my self and many more of our Crew have been all over it Indeed these parts have undergone great changes in this last age as well in places themselves as in their Owners and Commodities of them particularly Nombre de Dios a City once famous and which still retains a considerable name in some late
sooner to mutiny than want which we could not well suffer in a place where there are such quantities of these Animals to be had if Men could be perswaded to be contented with them In the afternoon we sailed from Lobos de Terra with the Wind at S. by E. and arrived at Lobos de la Mar on the 19th day Here we found a Letter left by our Bark that was sent to seek Captain Eaton by which we understood that Captain Eaton had been there but was gone before they arriv'd and had left no Letter to advise us which way he was gone and that our Bark was again returned to Plata in hopes to find us there or meet us by the way else resolving to stay for us there We were sorry to hear that Captain Eaton was gone for now we did not expect to meet with him any more in these Seas The 21st day we sent out our Moskito Strikers for Turtle who brought aboard enough to serve both Ships Companies and this they did all the time that we abode here While we lay at this Island Captain Swan made new yards squarer than those he had before and made his Sails larger and our Ships Company in the mean time split plank for Fire-wood and put aboard as many plank as we could conveniently stow for other uses Here being plank enough of all sorts which we had brought hither in the first Prize that we took and left here The 26th day in the evening we saw a small Bark about 3 leagues N. N. W. from the Island but we supposing her to be our own Bark did not go after her The next morning she was 2 leagues South of the Island standing off to Sea but we did not now chace her neither although we knew she was not our Bark for being to Windward of us she could have made her escape if we had chased her This Bark as we were afterward informed was sent out purposely to see if we were at this Island Her orders were not to come too near only to appear in sight they supposing that if we were here we should soon be after her as indeed it was a wonder we had not chaced her but our not doing so and lying close under the Island undiscern d by them was a great occasion of our coming upon Puna afterwards unexpectedly they being now without fear of any Enemy so near them The 28th day we scrubb d our Ships bottoms intending to sail the next day towards Guiaquil it being concluded upon to attempt that Town before we returned again to Plata Accordingly on the 29th day in the morning we loosed from hence steering directly for the Bay of Guiaquil This Bay runs in between Cape Blanco on the South side and Point Chandy on the North. About 25 leagues from Cape Blanco near the bottom of the Bay there is a small Island called Santa Clara which lies East and West It is of an indifferent length and it appears like a dead Man stretched out in a Shroud The East end represents the Head and the West end the Feet Ships that are bound into the Riveâ—… of Guiaquil pass on the South side to avoid the sholes which lie on the North side of it whereon formerly Ships have been lost It is reported by the Spaniards that there is a very rich Wreck lies on the North side of that Island not far from it and that some of the Plate hath been taken up by one who came from Old Spain with a Patent from the King to fish in those Seas for Wrecks but he dying the Project ceas'd and the Wreck still remains as he left it only the Indians by stealth do sometimes take up some of it and they might have taken up much more if it were not for the Catfish which swarm hereabouts The Catfish is much like a Whiting but the Head is flatter and bigger It hath a great wide Mouth and certain small Strings pointing out from each side of it like Cats Whiskers and for that reason it is called a Catfish It hath three Fins one growing on the top of his back and one on either side Each of these Fins hath a stiff sharp bone which is very venemous if it strikes into a mans flesh therefore it is dangerous diving where many of these Fish are The Indians that adventured to search this wreck have to their sorrow experienc'd it some having lost their lives others the use of their limbs by it this we were informed by an Indian who himself had been fishing on it by stealth I my self have known some white men that have lost the use of their hands only by a small prick with the fin of these Fish therefore when we catch them with a Hook we tread on them to take the Hook out of their mouths for otherwise in flurting about as all Fish will when first taken they might accidentally strike their sharp Fins into the hands of those that caught them Some of these Fish are 7 or 8 pound weight some again in some particular places are none of them bigger than a Man's Thumb but their Fins are all alike venemous They use to be at the mouths of Rivers or where there is much Mud and Oaze and they are found all over the American Coast both in the North and South Seas at least in the hot Countreys as also in the East Indies where sailing with Captain Minchin among certain Islands near the Streights of Malacca he pointed to an Island at which he told me he lost the use of his hand by one of these only in going to take the Hook out of its mouth The wound was scarce visible yet his Hand was much swoln and the pain lasted about 9 weeks during most part of which the raging heat of it was almost ready to distract him However though the bony Fins of these Fish are so venemous yet the Bones in their bodies are not so at least we never perceived any such effect in eating the Fish and their Flesh is very sweet delicious and wholesome Meat From the Island Santa Clara to Punta Arena is 7 leagues E. N. E. This Punta Arena or Sandy Point is the westermost point of the Island Puna Here all Ships bound into the River of Guiaquil anchor and must wait for a Pilot the entrance being very dangerous for Strangers The Island Puna is a pretty large flat low Island stretching East and West about 12 or 14 leagues long and about 4 or 5 leagues wide The Tide runs very strong all about this Island but so many different ways by reason of the Branches Creeks and Rivers that run into the Sea near it that it casts up many dangerous sholes on all sides of it There is in the Island only one Indian Town on the South side of it close by the Sea and 7 leagues from Point Arena which Town is also called Puna The Indians of this Town are all Seamen and are the only Pilots in these Seas especially for
we came I mean by the North West I know there have been divers attempts made about a North West Passage and all unsuccessful yet I am of opinion that such a Passage may be found All our Countrymen that have gone to discover the N. W. Passage have endeavoured to pass to the Westward beginning their search along Davis's or Hudsons Bay But if I was to go on this Discovery I would go first into the South Seas bend my course from thence along by California and that way seek a Passage back into the West Seas For as others have spent the Summer in first searching on this more known side nearer home and so before they got through the time of the year obliged them to give over their search and provide for a long course back again for fear of being left in the Winter on the contrary I would search first on the less known Coasts of the South Sea side and then as the year past away I should need no retreat for I should come farther into my knowledge if I succeeded in my attempt and should be without that dread and fear which the others must have in passing from the known to the unknown who for ought I know gave over their search just as they were on the point of accomplishing their desires I would take the same method if I was to go to discover the North East Passage I would winter about Japan Corea or the North East part of China and taking the Spring and Summer before me I would make my first Trial on the Coast of Tartary wherein if I succeeded I should come into some known parts and have a great deal of time before me to reach Archangel or some other Port. Captain Wood indeed says this North East Passage is not to be found for Ice but how often do we see that sometimes designs have been given over as impossible and at another time and by other ways those very things have been accomplished But enough of this The next day after that fatal Skirmish near Santa Pecaque Captain Swan ordered all our Water to be fill d and to get ready to sail The 21st day we sailed from hence directing our course towards California we had the Wind at N. W. and W. N. W. a small gale with a great Sea out of the West We past by 3 Islands called the Maria's After we past these Islands we had much Wind at N. N. W. and N. W. and at N. with thick rainy weather We beat till the 6th day of February but it was against a brisk Wind and proved labour in vain For we were now within reach of the Land Trade-wind which was opposite to us but would we go to California upon any Discovery or otherwise we should bear 60 or 70 leagues off from shore where we should avoid the Land-winds and have the benefit of the true Easterly Trade-wind Finding therefore that we got nothing but rather lost ground being then in 21 d. 5 m. N. we steered away more to the Eastward again for the Islands Maria's and the 7th day we came to an anchor at the East end of the middle Island in 8 fathom Water good clean Sand. The Maria's are three uninhabited Islands in lat 21 d. 40 m. they are distant from Cape St. Lucas on California 40 leagues bearing West South West and they are distant from Cape Corrientes 20 leagues bearing upon the same points of the Compass with Cape St. Lucas They stretch N. W. and S. E. about 14 leagues There are 2 or 3 small high Rocks near them The Westermost of them is the biggest Island of the three and they are all three of an indifferent heighth The soil is stony and dry the land in most places is covered with a shrubby sort of Wood very thick and troublesome to pass through In some places there is plenty of straight large Cedars though speaking of the places where I have found Cedars Chap. 3. I forgot to mention this place The Spaniards make mention of them in other places but I speak of those which I have seen All round by the Sea side it is sandy and there is produced a green prickly Plant whose leaves are much like the Penguin-leaf and the root like the root of a Seâ—…pervive but much larger This root being bak d in an Oven is good to eat and the Indians on California as I have been informed have great part of their subsistence from these roots We made an Oven in a sandy Bank and baked of these Roots and I eat of them but none of us greatly cared for them They taste exactly like the Roots of our English Burdocks boil'd of which I have eaten Here are plenty of Guanoes and Raccoons a large sort of Rat and Indian Conies and abundance of large Pigeons and Turtle-Doves The Sea is also pretty well stored with Fish and Turtle or Tortoise and Seal This is the second place on this Coast where I did see any Seal and this place helps to confirm what I have observed that they are seldom seen but where there is plenty of Fish Captain Swan gave the middle Island the Name of Prince George's Island The 8th day we run nearer the Island and anchored in 5 fathom and moored Head and Stern and unrigg d both Ship and Bark in order to careen Here Captain Swan proposed to go into the East Indies Many were well pleased with the Voyage but some thought such was their ignorance that he would carry them out of the world for about 2 thirds of our Men did not think there was any such way to be found but at last he gain'd their consents At our first coming hither we did eat nothing but Seal but after the first 2 or 3 days our Strikers brought aboard Turtle every day on which we fed all the time that we lay here and saved our Maiz for our Voyage Here also we measured all our Maiz and found we had about 80 Bushels This we divided into 3 parts one for the Bark and two for the Ship our Men were divided also 100 men aboard the Ship and 50 aboard the Bark besides 3 or 4 Slaves in each I had been a long time sick of a Dropsy a distemper whereof as I said before many of our men died so here I was laid and covered all but my head in the hot Sand I indured it near half an hour and then was taken out and laid to sweat in a Tent. I did sweat exceedingly while I was in the Sand and I do believe it did me much good for I grew well soon after We staid here till the 26th day and then both Vessels being clean we sailed to the Valley of Balderas to water for we could not do it here now In the wet Season indeed here is Water enough for the Brooks then run down plentifully but now though there was Water yet it was bad filling it being a great way to fetch it from the holes were it lodged The
Besides these there are an infinite number of small Islands of no account and even the great Islands many of them are without Names or at least so variously set down that I find the same Islands named by divers Names The Island St. John and Mindanao are the Southern-most of all these Islands and are the only Islands in all this Range that are not subject to the Spaniards St. Johns Island is on the East side of the Mindanao and distant from it 3 or 4 leagues It is in lat about 7 or 8 North. This Island is in length about 38 leagues stretching N. N. W. and S. S. E. and it is in breadth about 24 leagues in the middle of the Island The Northermost end is broader and the Southermost is narrower This Island is of a good heighth and is full of many small hills The Land at the South East end where I was ashore is of a black fat mould and the whole Island seems to partake of the same fatness by the vast number of large Trees that it produceth for it looks all over like one great Grove As we were passing by the S. E. end we saw a Canoa of the Natives under the shore therefore one of our Canoas went after to have spoken with her but she run away from us seeing themselves chaced put their Canoa ashore leaving her fled into the Woods nor would be allured to come to us altho we did what we could to entice them besides these Men we saw no more here nor sign of any Inhabitants at this end When we came aboard our Ship again we steered away for the Island Mindanao which was now fair in sight of us it being about 10 leagues distant from this part of St. Johns The 22d day we came within a league of the East side of the Island Mindanao and having the Wind at S. E. we steered toward the North end keeping on the East side till we came into the lat of 7d 40 m. and there we anchored in a small Bay about a mile from the shore in 10 fathom Water rocky foul ground Some of our Books gave us an account that Mindanao City and Isle lies in 7d 40 m. we guest that the middle of the Island might lye in this lat but we were at a great loss where to find the City whether on the East or West side Indeed had it been a small Island lying open to the Eastern Wind we might probably have searched first on the West side for commonly the Islands within the Tropicks or within the bounds of the Trade-Winds have their Harbours on the West sido as best sheltered but the Island Mindanao being guarded on the East side by St. Johns Island we might as reasonably expect to find the Harbour and City on this side as any where else but coming into the lat in which we judg'd the City might be found no Canoas or People that might give as any umbrage of a City or place of Trade near at hand though we coasted within a league of the shore The Island Mindanao is the biggest of all the Philippine Islands except Luconia It is about 60 leagues long and 40 or 50 broad The South end is in about 5 d. N. and the N. W. end reacheth almost to 8 d. N. It is a very mountainous Island full of Hills and Valleys The Mould in general is deep and black and extraordinary fat and fruitful The sides of the Hills are stony yet productive enough of very large tall Trees In the heart of the Country there are some Mountains that yield good Gold The Valleys are well moistned with pleasant Brooks and small Rivers of delicate Water and have Trees of divers sorts flourishing and green all the year The Trees in general are very large and most of them are of kinds unknown to us There is one sort which deserves particular notice called by the Natives Libby Trees These grow wild in great Groves of 5 or 6 mile long by the sides of the Rivers Of these Trees Sago is made which the poor Country People eat instead of Bread 3 or 4 months in the year This Tree for its body and shape is much like the Palmeto tree or the Cabbage tree but not so tall as the latter The Bark and Wood is hard and thin like a Shell and full of white Pith like the Pith of an Elder This Tree they cut down and split it in the middle and scrape out all the Pith which they beat lustily with a wooden Pestle in a great Mortar or Trough and then put into a Cloth or Strainer held over a Trough and pouring Water in among the Pith they stir it about in the Cloth so the Water carries all the substance of the Pith through the Cloth down into the Trough leaving nothing in the Cloth but a light sort of Husk which they throw away but that which falls into the Trough settles in a short time to the bottom like Mud and then they draw off the Water and take up the muddy substance wherewith they make Cakes which being baked proves very good Bread The Mindanao People live 3 or 4 months of the year on this food for their Bread kind The Native Indians of Teranate and Tidore and all the Spice Islands have plenty of these Trees and use them for food in the same manner as I have been inform'd by Mr. Caril Rofy who is now Commander of one of the Kings Ships He was one of our company at this time and being left with Captain Swan at Mindanao went afterwards to Teranate and lived there among the Dutch a year or two The Sago which is transported into other parts of the East Indies is dried in small pieces like little Seeds or Comfits and commonly eaten with Milk of Almonds by those that are troubled with the Flux for it is a great binder and very good in that distemper In some places of Mindanao there is plenty of Rice but in the hilly Land they plant Yams Potatoes and Pumkins all which thrive very well The other Fruits of this Island are Water-Melons Musk-Melons Plantains Bonanoes Guava's Nutmegs Cloves Betel-nuts Durians Jacks or Jaca's Coco-nuts Oranges c. The Plantain I take to be the King of all Fruit not except the Coco it self The Tree that bears this Fruit is about 3 foot or 3 foot and an half round and about 10 or 12 foot high These Trees are not raised from seed for they seem not to have any but from the roots of other old Trees If these young suckers are taken out of the ground and planted in another place it will be 15 months before they bear but if let stand in their own native Soil they will bear in 12 months As soon as the Fruit is ripe the Tree decays but then there are many young ones growing up to supply its place When this Tree first springs out of the ground it comes up with 2 leaves and by that time it is a foot
over-board some into their Boats others into the Sea and they all made away for the shore But when we perceived their fright we made much of him that was in hold who stood trembling all the while and at last we gave him a small piece of Iron with which he immediately leapt overboard and swam to his Consorts who hovered about our Ship to see the issue Then we beckned to them to come aboard again being very loth to lose a commerce with them Some of the Boats came aboard again and they were always very honest and civil afterwards We presently after this sent a Canoa ashore to see their manner of living and what Provision they had The Canoas Crew were made very welcom with Bashee drink and saw abundance of Hogs some of which they bought and returned aboard After this the Natives brought aboard both Hogs and Goats to us in their own Boats and every day we should have 15 or 20 Hogs and Goats in Boats aboard by our side These we bought for a small matter we could buy a good fat Goat for an old Iron Hoop and a Hog of 70 or 80 pound weight for 2 or 3 pound of Iron Their Drink also they brought off in Jars which we bought for old Nails Spikes and Leaden Bullets Beside the forementioned Commodities they brought aboard great quantities of Yams and Potatoes which we purchased for Nails Spikes or Bullets It was one Man's work to be all day cutting out Bars of Iron into small pieces with a cold Chisel and these were for the great purchases of Hogs and Goats which they would not sell for Nails as their Drink and Roots We never let them know what store we have that they may value it the more Every morning assoon as it was light they would thus come aboard with their Commodities which we bought as we had occasion We did commonly furnish our selves with as many Goats and Roots as served us all the day and their Hogs we bought in large quantities as we thought convenient for we salted them Their Hogs were very sweet but I never saw so many meazled ones We filled all our Water at a curious Brook close by us in Graftons Isle where we first anchored We stayed there about 3 or 4 days before we went to other Islands We sailed to the Southward passing on the East side of Grafton Island and then passed thro between that and Monmouth Island but we found no anchoring till we came to the North end of Monmouth Island and there we stopt during one Tide The Tide runs very strong here and sometimes makes a short chopping Sea Its course amongst these Islands is S. by E. and N. by W. The flood sets to the North and ebb to to the South and it riseth and falleth 8 foot When we went from hence we coasted about 2 leagues to the Southward on the West side of Monmouth Island and finding no anchor ground we stood over to Bashee Island and came to an anchor on the North East part of it against a small sandy Bay in 7 fathom clean hard sand and about a quarter of a mile from the shore Here is a pretty wide Channel between these two Islands and anchoring all over it The depth of Water is 12 14 and 16 fathom We presently built a Tent ashore to mend our Sails in and stay'd all the rest of our time here viz. from the 13th day of August till the 26 day of September In which time we mended our Sails and scrubbed our Ships bottom very well and every day some of us went to their Towns and were kindly entertained by them Their Boats also came aboard with their Merchandise to sell and lay aboard all day and if we did not take it off their hands one day they would bring the same again the next We had yet the Winds at S. W. and S. S. W. mostly fair weather In October we did expect the Winds to shift to the N. E. and therefore we provided to sail as soon as the Eastern Monsoon was settled to cruise off of Manila Accordingly we provided a stock of Provision We salted 70 or 80 good fat Hogs and bought Yams and Potatoes good store to eat at Sea About the 24th day of September the Winds shifted about to the East and from thence to the N. E. fine fair weather The 25th it came at N. and began to grow fresh and the Sky began to be clouded and the Wind freshned on us At 12 a clock at night it blew a very fierce storm We were then riding with our best Bower a head and though our Yards and Top-mast were down yet we drove This obliged us to let go our Sheet Anchor veering out a good scope of Cable which stopt us till 10 or 11 a clock the next day Then the Wind came on so fierce that she drove again with both Anchors a head The Wind was now at N. by W. and we kept driving till 3 or 4 a clock in the afternoon and it was well for us that there were no Islands Rocks or Sands in our way for if there had we must have been driven upon them We used our utmost endeavours to stop her being loath to go to Sea because we had 6 of our Men ashore who could not get off now At last we were driven out into deep Water and then it was in vain to wait any longer Therefore we hove in our Sheet Cable and got up our Sheet Anchor and cut away our best Bower for to have heav'd her up then would have gone near to have foundred us and so put to Sea We had very violent weather the night ensuing with very hard Rain and we were forced to scud with our bare poles till 3 a clock in the morning Then the Wind slacken'd and we brought our Ship to under a mizen and lay with our head to the Westward The 27th day the Wind abated much but it rained very hard all day and the night ensuing The 28th day the Wind came about to the N. E. and it cleered up and blew a hard gale but it stood not there for it shifted about the Eastward thence to the S. E. then to the South and at last it settled at S. W. and then we had a moderate gale and fair weather It was the 29th day when the Wind came to the S. W. Then we made all the sail we could for the Island again The 30th day we had the Wind at West and saw the Islands but could not get in before night Therefore we stood off to the Southward till 2 a clock in the morning then we tackt and stood in all the morning and about 12 a clock the 1st day of October we anchored again at the place from whence we were driven Then our 6 men were brought aboard by the Natives to whom we gave 3 whole bars of Iron for their kindness and civility which was an extraordinary Present to them Mr. Robert Hall was one of the
which we did set here also our old one being very faulty They made a new Fore-Yard too and a Fore Top-Mast and our Pumps being faulty and not serviceable they did cut a Tree to make a Pump They first squared it then sawed it in the middle and then hollowed each side exactly The two hollow sides were made big enough to contain a Pump-box in the midst of them both when they were joyned together and it required their utmost skill to close them exactly to the making a tight Cylinder for the Pump-box being unaccustomed to such work We learnt this way of Pump-making from the Spaniards who make their Pumps that they use in their Ships in the South Seas after this manner and I am confident that there are no better Hand-pumps in the world than they have While we lay here the young Prince that I mentioned in Chapter the 13th came aboard He understanding that we were bound farther to the Southward desired us to transport him and his Men to his own Island He shewed it to us in our Draft and told us the Name of it which we put down in our Draft for it was not named there but I quite forgot to put it into my Journal This Man told us that not above 6 days before this he saw Captain Swan and several of his Men that we left there and named the Names of some of them who he said were all well and that now they were at the City of Mindanao but that they had been all of them out with Raja Laut fighting under him in his Wars against his Enemies the Alfoores and that most of them fought with undaunted Courage for which they were highly honored and esteemed as well by the Sultan as by the General Raja Laut That now Captain Swan intended to go with his Men to Fort St. George and that in order thereto he had proffered 40 ounces of Gold for a Ship but the Owner and he were not yet agreed and that he feared that the Sultan would not let go away till the Wars were ended All this the Prince told us in the Malayan tongue which many of us had learnt and when he went away he promised to return to us again in 3 days time and so long Captain Reed promised to stay for him for we had now almost finished our business and he seem'd very glad of the opportunity of going with us After this I endeavoured to perswade our Men to return with the Ship to the River of Mandanao and offer their service again to Captain Swan I took an opportunity when they were filling of Water there being then half the Ships Company ashore and I found these all very willing to do it I desired them to say nothing till I had tried the minds of the other half which I intended to do the next day it being their turn to fill Water then but one of these Men who seemed most forward to invite back Captain Swan told Captain Read and Captain Teat of the project and they presently disswaded the Men from any such designs Yet fearing the worst they made all possible haste to be gone I have since been informed that Captain Swan and his Men stayed there a great while afterward and that many of the Men got passage from thence in Dutch Sloops to Ternate particularly Mr. Rofy and Mr. Nelly There they remained a great while and at last got to Batavia where the Dutch took their Journals from them and so to Europe and that some of Captain Swan's Men died at Mindanao of which number Mr. Harthope and Mr. Smith Captain Swan's Merchants were two At last Captain Swan and his Surgeon going in a small Canoa aboard of a Dutch Ship then in the Road in order to get passage to Europe were overset by the Natives at the Mouth of the River who waited their coming purposely to do it but unsuspected by them where they both were kill'd in the Water This was done by the General 's Order as some think to get his Gold which he did immediately seize on Others say it was because the General 's House was burnt a little before and Captain Swan was suspected to be the Author of it and others say that it was Captain Swan's Threats occasioned his own Ruine for he would often say passionately that he had been abused by the General and that he would have satisfaction for it saying also that now he was well acquainted with their Rivers and knew how to come in at any time that he also knew their manner of fighting and the Weakness of their Country and therefore he wou'd go away and get a Band of Men to assist him and returning thither again he would spoil and take all that they had and their Country too When the General has been informed of these discourses he would say What is Captain Swan made of Iron and able to resist a whole Kingdom Or does he think that we are afraid of him that he speaks thus Yet did he never touch him till now the Mindanayans kill'd him It is very probable there might be somewhat of truth in all of this for the Captain was passionate and the General greedy of Gold But whatever was the occasion so he was kill'd as several have assured me and his Gold seiz'd on and all his things and his Journal also from England as far as Cape Corrientes on the Coast of Mexico This Journal was afterwards sent away from thence by Mr. Moody who was there both a little before and a little after the Murder and he sent it to England by Mr. Goddard Chief Mate of the Defence But to our purpose seeing I could not perswade them to go to Captain Swan again I had a great desire to have had the Prince's company but Captain Read was afraid to let his fickle crew lye long That very day that the Prince had promised to return to us which was November 2. 1687. we sailed hence directing our course South West and having the Wind at N. W. This Wind continued till we came in sight of the Island Celebes then it veered about to the W. and to the Southward of the West We came up with the N. E. end of the Island Celebes the 9th day and there we found the current setting to the Westward so strongly that we could hardly get on the East side of that Island The Island Celebes is a very large Island extended in length from North to South about 7 degrees of lat and in breadth it is about 3 degrees It lies under the Equator the North end being in lat 1 d. 30 m. North and the South end in lat 5 d. 30 m. South and by common account the North point in the bulk of this Island lies nearest North and South but at the North East end there runs out a long narrow point stretching N. E. about 30 leagues and about 30 leagues to the Eastward of this long Slipe is the Island Gilolo on the West
They keeping at a distance rowed away faster than we did and got to the Bay before us and there with about 20 more Canoas full of Men they all landed and stood to hinder us from landing But we rowed in within a hundred yards of them Then we lay still and I took my Gun and presented at them at which they all fell down flat on the ground But I turn'd my self about and to shew that we did not intend to harm them I fired my Gun off to Sea so that they might see the Shot graze on the water Assoon as my Gun was loaden again we rowed gently in at which some of them withdrew The rest standing up did still cut and hew the Air making signs of their hatred till I once more frighted them with my Gun and discharg'd it as before Then more of them sneak'd away leaving only 5 or 6 Men on the Bay Then we rowed in again and Mr. Hall taking his Sword in his hand leapt ashore and I stood ready with my Gun to fire at the Indians if they had injured him but they did not stir till he came to them and saluted them He shook them by the hand and by such signs of friendship as he made the Peace was concluded ratified and confirmed by all that were present and others that were gone were again call'd back and they all very joyfully accepted of a Peace This became universal over all the Island to the great joy of the Inhabitants There was no ringing of Bells nor Bonfires made for that is not the custom here but gladness appeared in their Countenances for now they could go out and fish again without fear of being taken This peace was not more welcom to them than to us for now the Inhabitants brought their Melory again to us which we bought for old Rags and small stripes of Cloath about as broad as the palm of ones hand I did not see above 5 or 6 Hens for they have but few on the Island At some places we saw some small Hogs which we could have bought of them reasonably but we would not offend our Achinese Friends who were Mahometans We stayed here 2 or 3 days and then rowed toward the South end of the Island keeping on the East side and we were kindly received by the Natives where ever we came When we arrived at the South end of the Island we fitted our selves with Melory and Water We bought 3 or 4 Loaves of Melory and about 12 large Coco-nut shells that had all the Kernel taken out yet were preserved whole except only a small hole at one end and all these held for us about 3 gallons and a half of Water We bought also 2 or 3 Bambo's that held about 4 or 5 gallons more This was our Sea store We now designed to go to Achin a Town on the N. W. end of the Island Sumatra distant from hence about 40 leagues bearing South South East We only waited for the western Monsoon which we had expected a great while and now it seemed to be at hand for the Clouds began to hang their heads to the Eastward and at last moved gently that way and though the Wind was still at East yet this was an infallible sign that the western Monsoon was nigh CHAP. XVIII The Author with some other puts to Sea in an open Boat designing for Achin Their Accommodations for their Voyage Change of Weather a Halo about the Sun and a violent storm Their great danger and distress Cudda a Town and Harbour on the Coast of Malacca Pulo Way Golden Mountain on the Isle of Sumatra River and Town of Passenge-Jonca on Sumatra near Diamond-point where they go ashore very sick and are kindly entertained by the Oromkay and Inhabitants They go thence to Achin The Author is examined before the Shabander and takes Physick of a Malayan Doctor His long illness He sets out towards Nicobar again but returns suddenly to Achin Road. He makes several Voyages thence to Tonqueen to Malacca to Fort St. George and to Bencouli an English Factory on Sumatra An account of the Ships Crew who set the Author ashore at Nicobar Some go to Trangambar a Danish Fort on Coromandel others to Fort St. George many to the Mogul's Camp Of the Peuns and how John Oliver made himself a Captain Captain Read with the rest having plundered a rich Portuguese Ship near Ceylon goes to Madagascar and Ships himself off thence in a New-york Ship The Traverses of the rest to Johanna c. Their Ship the Cygnet of London now lies sunk in Augustin Bay at Madagascar Of Prince Jeoly the Painted man whom the Author brought with him to England and who died at Oxford Of his Country the Isle of Meangis the Cloves there c. The Author is made Gunner of Bencouli but is forced to slip away from thence to come for England IT was the 15th day of May 1688 about 4 a clock in the afternoon when we left Nicobar Island directing our course toward Achin being 8 men of us in Company viz. 3 English 4 Malayans who were born at Achin and the mungrel Portuguese Our Vessel the Nicobar Canoa was not one of the biggest nor of the least size She was much about the burthen of one of our London Wherrys below Bridge and built sharp at both ends like the fore part of a Wherry She was deeper than a Wherry but not so broad and was so thin and light that when empty 4 men could launch her or hale her ashore on a sandy Bay We had a good substantial Mast and a mat Sail and good Outlagers lasht very fast and firm on each side the Vessel being made of strong poles So that while these continued firm the Vessel could not overset which she would easily have done without them and with them too had they not been made very strong and we were therefore much beholding to our Achinese Companions for this contrivance These men were none of them so sensible of the danger as Mr. Hall and my self for they all consided so much in us that they did not so much as scruple any thing that we did approve of Neither was Mr. Hall so well provided as I was for before we left the Ship I had purposely consulted our Draft of the East Indies for we had but one in the Ship and out of that I had written in my pocket-book an account of the bearing and distance of all the Malacca Coast and that of Sumatra Pegu and Siam and also brought away with me a pocket Compass for my direction in any enterprize that I should undertake The weather at our setting out was very fair clear and hot The Wind was still at S. E. a very small breeze just fanning the Air and the Clouds were moving gently from West to East which gave us hopes that the Winds were either at West already abroad at Sea or would be so in a very short time We took this opportunity of fair weather
Yams Potatoes c. to carry aboard with us on which we fed commonly all our Voyage But after six or seven Months I left that employ also and shipt my self aboard one Capt. Hudsel who was bound to the Bay of Campeachy to load Logwood We sailed from Port-Royal about the beginning of August in 1675. in Company with Capt. Wren in a small Jamaica Bark and Capt. Johnson Commander of a Ketch belonging to New-England This Voyage is all the way before the Wind and therefore Ships commonly sail it in 12 or 14 Days Neither were we longer in our Passage for we had very fair Weather and touch'd no where till we came to Trist Island in the Bay of Campeachy which is the only place they go to In our way thither we first sailed by little Caimanes leaving it on our Larboard side and Key Monbrack which are two small Islands lying South of Cuba The next Land we saw was the Isle of Pines and steering still Westerly we made Cape Corienes And sailing on the South side of Cuba till we came to Cape Antonio which is the West end of it we stretched over towards the Peninsula of Jucatan and fell in with Cape Catoch which is in the Extream part of that Promontory towards the East The Land trends from this Cape one way South about 40 Leagues till you come to the Island Cozumel and from thence it runs S. W. down into the Bay of Honduras About 10 Leagues from Cape Catoch between it and Cozumel lies a small Island called by the Spaniards Key-Muger or Womens-Island because 't is reported that when they went first to settle in these parts they left their Wives there while they went over on the main to find some better Habitation Tho' now they have no settlement near it whatever they have had formerly About 3 Leagues from Cape Catoch and just against it is a small Island called Loggerhead-Key probably because it is frequently visited by a sort of Turtle so called near this Island we always find a great ripling which Seamen call the Rip-raps This Cape tho' it appears to be part of the Main yet is divided from it by a small Creek scarce wide enough for a Canoa to pass through though by it 't is made an Island This I have been credibly informed of by some who yet told me that they made a shift to pass it in a Canoa The Cape is very low Land by the Sea but somewhat higher as you go further from the shore It is all over-grown with Trees of divers sorts especially Logwood and therefore was formerly much frequented by the Jamaica Men who came thither in Sloops to load with it till all the Logwoodtrees near the Sea were cut down but now 't is wholly abandoned because the Carriage of it to the shore requires more labour than the cutting logging and chipping Besides they find better Wood now in the Bays of Campeachy and Honduras and have but little way to carry it not above 300 Paces when I was there whereas at Cape Catoch they were forc'd to carry it 1500 Paces before they left that Place From Cape Catoch we coasted along by the shore on the North side of Jucatan towards Cape Condecedo The Coast lies nearest West The distance between these two Capes is about 80 Leagues The shore lies pretty level without any visible Points or Bendings in the Land It is woody by the shore and full of sandy Bays and lofty Mangroves The first place of Note to the West of Cape Catoch is a small Hill by the Sea call'd the Mount and is distant from it about 14 Leagues It is very remarkable because there is no other High-Land on all this Coast. I was never ashore here but have met with some well acquainted with the Place who are all of opinion that this Mount was not natural but the Work of Men And indeed it is very probable this Place has been inhabited for here are a great many large Cisterns supposed to have been made for the receiving of Rain-water for there are no fresh Springs to be found here the Soil being all sandy and very salt So that as I have been credibly informed by an intelligent Person the Spaniards do fetch of it to make Salt-Petre He also told me that being once there in a Privateer and landing some Men on the Bay they found about 100 Packs of this Earth bound up in Palmeto-leaves and a Spanish Mulatto to guard it The Privateers at first sight of the Packs were in hopes there had been Maiz or Indian Corn in them which they then wanted but opening them they found nothing but Earth and examining the Mulatto for what use it was he said to make Powder and that he expected a Bark from Campeachy to fetch it away He further told me that tasting of it he found it very salt as all the Earth thereabouts was So that 't is not improbable that those Cisterns were made for the carrying on a Salt-Petre-Work But whatever was the design at first it is now wholly laid aside for there is no use made of them neither are there any Inhabitants near this Place Between the Mount and Cape Condecedo close by the Sea are many little Spots of Mangrove-trees which at a distance appear-like Islands but coming nearer when other lower Trees appear it shews like ragged and broken Ground but at last all the Land presents it self to your view very even The next Place of Note on this Coast is Rio de la Gartos almost in the Mid-way between Cape Catoch and Cape Condecedo This also is a very remarkable Place for here are 2 Groves of High Magnroves one on each side the River by which it may be known very well The River is but small yet deep enough for Canoas The Water is good and I know not any other Brook or fresh River on all the Coast from Cape Catoch till within 3 or 4 Leagues of Campeachy Town A little to the East of this River is a Fish-Range and a small Indian Hutt or two within the Woods where the Indian Fishers who are subject to the Spaniards lye in the Fishing-Seasons their Habitations and Familes being farther up in the Country Here are Poles to hang their Nets on and Barbecues to dry their Fish When they go off to Sea they fish with Hook and Line about 4 or 5 Leagues from the shore for Snappers and Gropers which I have already described in my Voyage round the VVorld Chap. 4. Pag. 91. Since the Privateers and Logwood-ships have sailed this way these Fisher-men are very shy having been often snap'd by them So that now when they are out at Sea if they see a Sail they presently sink their Canoas even with the edge of the Water for the Canoas when they are full of Water will sink no lower and they themselves lye just with their heads above Water till the Ship which they saw is pass'd by or comes Night I have seen them under
covered with Pantile There is a strong Citadel or Fort at one end planted with many Guns where the Governour resides with a small Garrison to defend it Though this Port Commands the Town and Harbour yet it hath been twice taken First by Sir Christopher Mims who about the Year 1659. having summoned the Governour and afterwards stayed 3 days for an Answer before he Landed his Men yet then took it by Storm and that only with small Arms. I have been told that when he was advised by the Jamaica Privateers to take it by Stratagem in the Night he replied that he scorned to steal a Victory therefore when he went against it he gave them warning of his Approach by his Drums and Trumpets yet he took the Fort at the first onset and immediately became Master of the Place It was taken a second time by English and French Privateers about the Year 1678. by surprize They Landed in the Night about 2 Leagues from the Town and marching into the Country lighted on a Path that brought them thither The next Morning near Sun-rising they entred the Town when many of the Inhabitants were now stirring in their Houses who hearing a noise in the Street look'd out to know the occasion and seeing Armed Men marching towards the Fort supposed them to be some Soldiers of their own Garrison that were returned out of the Country for about a Fortnight or 3 VVeeks before they had sent out a Party to suppress some Indians then in Rebellion a thing very Common in this Country Under favour of this Supposition the Privateers marched through the Streets even to the Fort without the least Opposition Nay the Towns-People bad them Good Morrow and Congratulated their safe return not discovering them to be Enemies till they fired at the Sentinels on the Fort-wall and presently after began a furious Attack and turning two small Guns which they found in the Parade against the Gates of the Fort they soon made themselves Masters of it The Town is not very rich though as I said before the only Sea-Port on all this Coast. The chiefest Manufacture of the Country is Cotton-Cloath this serves for cloathing the Indians and even the poorer sort of Spaniards wear nothing else It is used also for making Sails for Ships and remitted to other parts for the same purpose Besides Cotton-Cloath and Salt fetch'd from the Salinas I know of no other vendible Commodity exported hence Indeed formerly this place was the Scale of the whole Logwood-Trade which is therefore still called Palo i. e. VVood de Campeachy tho' it did not grow nearer than at 12 or 14 Leagues distance from the Town The place where the Spaniards did then cut it was at a River called Champeton about 10 or 12 Leagues to Leeward of Campeachy Town the Coast from thence South the Land pretty high and rocky The Native Indians that lived hereabouts were hired to cut it for a Ryal a Day it then being worth 90 100 01 110 l. per Tun. After the English had taken Jamaica and began to cruise in this Bay they found many Barks laden with it but not knowing its value then they either set them adrift or burned them saving only the Nails and Iron work a thing now usual among the Privateers taking no notice at all of the Cargo till Cap. James having taken a great Ship laden with it and brought her home to England to fit her for a Privateer beyond his Expectation sold his VVood at a great rate tho' before he valued it so little that he burned of it all his Passage home After his return to Jamaica the English visiting this Bay found out the Place where it grew and if they 〈◊〉 Prize at Sea they would go to Champeton 〈◊〉 where they were certain to find large Piles cut to their Hand and brought to the Sea-side ready to be ship'd off This was their Common Practice till at last the Spaniards sent Soldiers thither to prevent their Depredations But by this time the English knew the Trees as growing and understanding their value began to rummage other Coasts of the Main in search of it till according to their desire they found large Groves of it first at Cape Catoch which as I have said before was the first Place where they setled to Logwood-Cutting and loaded many Vessels from thence to Jamaica and other Places But it growing scarce there they found out the Lagune of Trist in the Bay of Campeachy where they followed the same Trade and have ever since continued it even to the time of my being here But to proceed From the River Champeton to Port-Royal is about 18 Leagues the Coast S. S. VV. or S. VV. by S. Low-land with a sandy Bay against the Sea and some Trees by the shore with small Savanahs mixt with small shrubby VVoods within Land all the way There is only one River between Champeton and Port-Royal called Port Escondedo Port-Royal is a broad Entrance into a Salt Lagune of 9 or 10 Leagues long and 3 or 4 wide with 2 Mouths one at each end This Mouth of Port-Royal hath a Barr whereon there is 9 or 10 Foot VVater VVithin the Bar it is deep enough and there is good Anchoring on either side The entrance is about a Mile over and two Miles in length it hath fair sandy Bays on each side with smooth Landing Ships commonly Anchor on the VVeather or East side next Champeton both for the convenience of some VVells there dug on the Bays by the Privateers and Logwood-Cutters as also to ride more out of the Tide which here runs very strong This Place is remarkable enough because from hence the Land trends away VVest and runs so for about 65 or 70 Leagues farther On the VVest side of this Harbour is a low Island called by Us Port-Royal-Island which makes one side of the Mouth as the Main does the other It is about 2 Miles wide and 3 Leagues long running East and VVest The East end of this Island is sandy and pretty clear of VVoods with some Grass bearing a small prickly Bur no bigger than a Grey Pea which renders it very troublesom to those that walk bare-foot as the Bay-Men often do There are some Bushes of Burton-wood And a little further to the VVest grow large Sapadillo-Trees whose Fruit is long and very pleasant The rest of the Island is more woody especially the North side which is full of white Mangrove close to the shore On the VVest side of this Island is another small low Island called Trist separated from the former by a small Salt Creek scarce broad enough for a Canoa to padle through The Island Trist is in some Places three Mile wide and about 4 Leagues in Length running E. and W. The East end is swampy and full of white Mangroves and the South side much the same The VVest part is dry and sandy bearing a sort of long Grass growing in Tufts very thin This is a sort of
observed his Method in curing the Horse which was this First he strok'd the sore Place then applying to it a little rough Powder which looked like Tobacco Leaves dryed and crumbled small mumbling some Words to himself he blew upon the part three times and waving his Hands as often over it said it would be well speedily His Fee for the Cure was a White Cock Then coming to me and looking on the Worm in my Ancle he promised to cure it in three Days demanding also a White Cock for his pains and using exactly the same Method with me as he did with the Horse He bad me not open it in three Days but I did not stay so long for the next Morning the Cloath being rubb'd off I unbound it and found the Worm broken off and the Hole quite healed up I was afraid the remaining part would have given some trouble but have not felt any pain there from that day to this To return I told you how I was interrupted in following my Work by the Worms breeding in my Leg. And to compleat my misfortune presently after we had the most violent Storm for above 24 Hours that ever was known in these Parts An Account of which I shall give more particularly in my Discourse of Winds and shall now only mention some Passages I have already said we were four of us in Company at this Place cutting Logwood and by this Storm were reduced to great Inconveniencies for while that lasted we could dress no Victuals nor even now it was over unless we had done it in the Canoa for the highest Land near us was almost 3 Foot under Water besides our Provision too was most of it spoiled except the Beef and Pork which was but little the worse We had a good Canoa large enough to carry us all and seeing it in vain to stay here any longer we all embarked and rowed away to One-Bush-Key about 4 Leagues from our Huts There were 4 Ships riding here when the Storm began but at our arrival we found only one and hoped to have got some Refreshment from it but found very cold entertainment For we could neither get Bread nor Punch nor so much as a Dram of Rum though we offered them Money for it The Reason was they were already over-charged with such as being distressed by the Storm had been forced to take Sanctuary with them seeing we could not be supplied here we asked which way the other three Ships were driven they told us that Capt. Prout of New-England was driven towards Trist and 't was probable he was carried out to Sea unless he stuck on a Sand called the Middle Ground that Capt. Skinner of New-England was driven towards Beef-Island and Captain Chandler of London drove away towards Man-of-War Lagune Beef-Island lies North from One-Bush-Key but the other two Places lie a little on each side One to the East the other to the West So away we went for Beef-Island and coming within a League of it we saw a Flag in the Woods made fast to a Pole and placed on the Top of a high Tree And coming still nearer we at last saw a Ship in the Woods about 200 Yards from the Sea We rowed directly towards her and when we came to the Woods side found a pretty clear Passage made by the Ship through the Woods the Trees being all broke down And about three Foot Water Home to the Ship We rowed in with our Canoa and went Aboard and were kindly Entertained by the Seamen but the Captain was gone Aboard Captain Prout who stuck fast on the middle Ground before-mentioned Captain Prout's Ship was afterwards got off again but the Stumps of the Trees ran clear through the bottom of Captain Skinner's therefore there was no hope of saving her Here we got Victuals and Punch and stayed about two Hours in which time the Captain came Aboard and invited us to stay all Night But hearing some Guns fired in Man-of-War Lagune we concluded that Captain Chandler was there and wanted assistance Therefore we presently rowed away thither for we could do no Service here and before Night found him also stuck fast on a Point of Sand. The Head of his Ketch was dry and at the Stern there was above 4 Foot Water Our coming was very seasonable to Captain Chandler with whom we stayed two Days in which time we got out all his Goods carried off his Anchor c. and so not being able as yet to do him more Service we left him for the present and went away to hunt at Beef-Island At Trist were four Vessels riding before this Storm one of them was driven off to Sea and never heard of afterwards Another was cast dry upon the shore where she lay and was never got off again But the third rode it out Another was riding without the Bar of Trist and she put to Sea and got to New-England but much shattered About three days before this Storm began a small Vessel Commanded by Captain Vally went hence bound to Jamaica This Vessel was given for lost by all the Logwood-Cutters but about 4 Months after she returned thither again and the Captain said he felt nothing of the Storm but when he was about 30 Leagues to Wind-ward of Trist he had a fresh Summasenta-Wind that carried him as high as Cape Condecedo but all the time he saw very black Clouds to the Westward Beef-Island is about 7 Leagues long and 3 or 4 broad It lies in length East and West The East end looks toward the Island Trist and is low drowned Land and near the Sea produceth nothing but white and black Mangrove-Trees The North side lies open to the Main Sea running straight from East to West The Eastermost part for about three Leagues from Trist is Low and Mangrovy at the end of which there is a small salt Creek deep enough at high Water for Boats to pass From this Creek to the West end is 4 Leagues all sandy Bay closed on the backside with a low Sand-bank abounding with thick prickly Bushes like a White-thorn bearing a whitish hard Shell-Fruit as big as a Sloe much like a Calla-bash The West end is washed with the River St. Peter St. Paul This end is over-grown with red Mangroves About 3 Leagues up from the Mouth of this River shoots forth a small Branch running to the Eastward and dividing Beef-Island form the Main on the South and afterwards makes a great Lake of fresh Water called Fresh Water Lagune This afterward falls into a Salt Lake called Man-of-War Lagune which emptys it self into Laguna Termina about 2 Leagues from the S. E. Point of the Island The inside or middle of this Island is a Savannah bordered all round with Trees most Mangrovy either black white or red with some Logwood The South side between the Savannahs and the Mangroves is very rich Sometimes this Land lyes in Ridges higher than the Savannahs The Savannahs produce plenty of long Grass and the Ridges
down in Lat. 12 d. 16 m. It is about 20 leagues from the Main and 9 or 10 from Querisao and is accounted 16 or 17 leagues round The Road is on the S. W. side near the middle of the Island where there is a pretty deep Bay runs in Ships that come from the Eastward luff up close to the Eastern shore and let go their Anchor in 60 fathom water within half a Cables length of the shore But at the same time they must be ready with a Boat to carry a Hasar or Rope and make it fast ashore otherwise when the Land-wind comes in the night the Ship would drive off to Sea again for the ground is so steep that no Anchor can hold if once it starts About half a mile to the Westward of this Anchoring place there is a small low Island and a Channel between it and the main Island The Houses are about half a mile within Land right in the Road There is a Governour lives here a Deputy to the Governor of Querisao and 7 or 8 Soldiers with 5 or 6 Families of Indians There is no Fort and the Soldiers in peaceable times have little to do but to eat and sleep for they never watch but in time of War The Indians are Husband-men and plant Maiz and Guinea Corn and some Yames and Potatoes But their chiefest business is about Cattle for this Island is plentifully stocked with Goats and they send great quantities every year in Salt to Querisao There are some Horses and Bulls and Cows but I never saw any Sheep though I have been all over the Island The South side is plain low Land and there are several sorts of Trees but none very large There is a small Spring of water by the Houses which serves the Inhabitants though it is brackish At the West end of the Island there is a good Spring of Fresh water and 3 or 4 Indian Families live there but no Water nor Houses at any other place On the South side near the East-end is a good Salt-pond where Dutch Sloops come for Salt From Bon-Airy we went to the Isle of Aves or Birds so called from its great plenty of Birds as Men of War and Boobies but especially Boobies The Booby is a Water-fowl somewhat less than a Hen of a light greyish colour I observ'd the Boobies of this Island to be whiter than others This Bird hath a strong Bill longer and bigger than a Crows and broader at the end her Feet are flat like a Ducks Feet It is a very simple creature and will hardly go out of a mans way In other places they build their Nests on the ground but here they build on Trees which I never saw any where else tho I have seen of them in a great many places Their Flesh is black and eats Fishy but are often eaten by the Privateers Their numbers have been much lessen'd by the French Fleet which lay here till it was lost as I shall give an account The Man of War as it is called by the English is about the bigness of a Kite and in shape like it but black and the Neck is red It lives on Fish yet never lights on the Water but soars aloft like a Kite and when it sees its prey it flys down head foremost to the waters edge very swiftly takes his prey out of the Sea with his Bill and immediately mounts again as swiftly and never touching the Water but with his Bill His Wings are very long His Feet are like other Land-Fowl and he builds on Trees where he finds any but where they are wanting on the ground This Island Aves lies about 8 or 9 leagues to the Eastward of the Island Bon-airy about 14 or 15 leagues from the Main and about the lat of 11d 45m North. It is but small not above 4 mile in length and towards the East end not half a mile broad On the North side it is low Land commonly overflown with the Tide but on the Southside there is a great Rocky Bank of Coral thrown up by the Sea The West end is for near a mile space plain even Savanah Land without any Trees There are 2 or 3 Wells dug by Privateers who often frequent this Island because there is a good Harbor about the middle of it on the North side where they may conveniently careen The Riff or Bank of Rocks on which the French Fleet was lost as I mentioned above runs along from the East end to the Northward about 3 mile then tends away to the Westward making as it were a Half Moon This Riff breaks off all the Sea and there is good riding in even sandy ground to the Westward of it There are 2 or 3 small low sandy Keys or Islands within this Riff about 3 miles from the Main Island The Count de Estree lost his Fleet here in this manner Coming from the Eastward he fell in on the back of the Riff and fired Guns to give warning to the rest of his Fleet But they supposing their Admiral was engaged with Enemies hoised up their Topsails and crowded all the Sail they could make and ran full sail ashore after him all within half a mile of each other For his Light being in the Main Top was an unhappy Beacon for them to follow and there escaped but one Kings-ship and one Privateer The Ships continued whole all day and the Men had time enough most of them to get ashore yet many perished in the Wreck and many of those that got safe on the Island for want of being accustomed to such hardships died like rotten Sheep But the Privateers who had been used to such accidents lived merrily from whom I had this relation and they told me that if they had gone to Jamaica with 30 l. a Man in their Pockets they could not have enjoyed themselves more For they kept in a Gang by themselves and watched when the Ships broke to get the Goods that came from them and though much was staved against the Rocks yet abundance of Wine and Brandy floated over the Riff where these Privateers waited to take it up They lived here about 3 weeks waiting an opportunity to transport themselves back again to Hispaniola in all which time they were never without 2 or 3 Hogsheads of Wine and Brandy in their Tents and Barrels of Beef and Pork which they could live on without Bread well enough tho the new-comers out of France could not There were about 40 Frenchmen on board in one of the Ships where there was good store of Liquor till the after part of her broke away and floated over the Riff and was carry'd away to Sea with all the men drinking and singing who being in drink did not mind the danger but were never heard of afterwards In a short time after this great Shipwrack Captain Pain Commander of a Privateer of 6 Guns had a pleasant accident befel him at this Island He came hither to Careen intending to fit
without any Tree only some Dildo-bushes growing on them and I do believe there is no Water on any one of them for there was no appearance of any Water The two Northernmost we could not come near but the Southermost we came close by but could not strike ground till within two Cables length of the shore and there found it to be foul rocky ground From the time that we were in 10 degrees South till we came to these Islands we had the Wind between E. N. E. and the N. N. E. fair weather and a brisk gale The day that we made these Islands we saw great sholes of small Lobsters which coloured the Sea Red in spots for a mile in compass and we drew some of them out of the Sea in our Water-Buckets They were no bigger than the top of a Mans little finger yet all their Claws both great and small like a Lobster I never saw any of this sort of Fish naturally red but here for ours on the English Coast which are black naturally are not red till they are boil'd neither did I ever any where else meet with any Fish of the Lobster shape so small as these unless it may be Shrimps or Prawns Captain Swan and Captain Eaton met also with shoals of this Fish in much the same Latitude and Longitude Leaving therefore the Sible de Ward Islands as having neither good Anchorage nor Water we sailed on directing our course for the Streights of Magellan But the Winds hanging in the westerbord and blowing hard oft put us by our Topsails so that we could not fetch it The 6th day of February we fell in with the Streights Le Mair which is very high Land on both sides and the Streights very narrow We had the Wind at N. N. W. a fresh gale and seeing the opening of the Streights we ran in with it till within four mile of the mouth and then it fell calm and we found a strong tide setting out of the Streights to the Northward and like to founder our Ship but whether flood or ebb I know not only it made such a short cockling Sea as if we had been in a race or place where two tides meet For it ran every way sometimes breaking in over our Waste sometimes over our Poop sometimes over our Bow and the Ship tossed like an Egg-shell so that I never felt such uncertain jerks in a Ship At 8 a clock in the evening we had a small Breez at W. N. W. and steered away to the Eastward intending to go round the States Island the East end of which we reached the next day by noon having a fresh breez all night The 7th day at noon being off the East End of States Island I had a good observation of the Sun and found my self in lat 54 deg 52 min. South At the East end of States Island are three small Islands or rather Rocks pretty high and white with the Dung of Fowls Wherefore having observed the Sun we haled up South designing to pass round to the Southward of Cape Horne which is the Southermost Land of Terra del Fuego The Winds hung in the western quarter betwixt the N. W. and the West so that we could not get much to the Westward and we never saw Terra del Fuego after that evening that we made the Streight Le Mair I have heard that there have been Smokes and Fires on Terra del Fuego not on the tops of Hills but in Plains and Valleys seen by those who have sailed through the Streights of Magellan supposed to be made by the Natives We did not see the Sun at rising or setting in order to take an amplitude after we left the Sibble de Wards till we got into the South Seas therefore I know not whether the variation increased any more or no. Indeed I had an observation of the Sun at noon in lat 59 deg 30 min. and we were then standing to the Southward with the Wind at W. by N. and that night the Wind came about more to the Southward of the West and we tackt I was then in lat 60 by reckning which was the farthest South latitude that ever I was in The 14th day of February being in lat 57. and to the West of Cape Horne we had a violent Storm which held us till the third day of March blowing commonly at S. W. and S. W. by W. and W. S. W. thick weather all the time with small drizling Rain but not hard We made a shift however to save 23 Barrels of Rain-water besides what we drest our Victuals withal March the third the Wind shifted at once and came about at South blowing a fierce gale of Wind soon after it came about to the Eastward and we stood into the South Seas The 9th day having an observation of the Sun not having seen it of late we found ourselves in lat 47 d. 10 m. and the variation to be but 15 d. 30 m. East The Wind stood at S. E. we had fair weather and a moderate gale and the 17th day we were in lat 36 by observation and then found the variation to be but 8 degrees East The 19th day when we looked out in the morning we saw a Ship to the Southward of us coming with all the Sail she could make after us we lay muzled to let her come up with us for we supposed her to be a Spanish Ship come from Baldivia bound to Lima we being now to the Northward of Baldivia and this being the time of the year when Ships that trade thence to Baldivia return home They had the same opinion of us and therefore made sure to take us but coming nearer we both found our mistakes This proved to be one Captain Eaton in a Ship sent purposely from London for the South Seas We hailed each other and the Captain came on board and told us of his actions on the Coast of Brazil and in the River of Plate He met Captain Swan one that came from England to trade here at the East Entrance into the Streights of Magellan and they accompanied each other through the Streights and were separated after they were through by the Storm before mentioned Both we and Captain Eaton being bound for John Fernando's Isle we kept company and we spared him Bread and Beef and he spared us Water which he took in as he passed through the Streights March the 22d 1684. we came in sight of the Island and the next day got in and anchored in a Bay at the South end of the Island in 25 fathom water not two Cables lengths from the shore We presently got out our Canoa and went ashore to see for a Moskito Indian whom we left here when we were chaced hence by three Spanish Ships in the year 1681. a little before we went to Arica Captain Watlin being then our Commander after Captain Sharp was turned out This Indian lived here alone above 3 years and altho he was several
was so named by the Spaniards after Sir Francis Drake took the Caoafoga a Ship chiefly laden with Plate which they say he brought hither and divided it here with his Men. It is about 4 mile long and a mile and half broad and of a good heighth It is bounded with high steep Cliffs clear round only at one place on the East side The top of it is flat and even the Soil sandy and dry the Trees it produceth are but small bodied low and grow thin and there are only 3 or 4 sorts of Trees all unknown to us I observed they were much overgrown with long Moss There is good Grass especially in the beginning of the year There is no Water on this Island but at one place on the East side close by the Sea there it drills slowly down from the Rocks where it may be received into Vessels There was plenty of Goats but they are now all destroyed There is no other sort of Land Animal that I did ever see here are plenty of Boobies and Men of War Birds The anchoring place is on the East side near the middle of the Island close by the shore within two Cables lengths of the sandy Bay there is about 18 or 20 fathom good fast oazy ground and smooth Water for the S. E. point of the Island shelters from the South Winds which constantly blow here From the S. E. point there strikes out a small shole a quarter of a mile into the Sea where there is commonly a great Riplin or working of short Waves during all the Flood The Tide runs pretty strong the Flood to the South and the Ebb to the North. There is good landing on the Sandy Bay against the anchoring place from whence you may go up into the Island and at no place besides There are 2 or 3 high steep small Rocks at the S. E. point not a Cables length from the Island and another much bigger at the N. E. end it is deep Water all round but at the anchoring place and at the shole at the S. E point This Island lieth in lat 01d 10 m. South It is distant from Cape St. Lorenzo 4 or 5 leagues bearing from it W. S. W. and half a point westerly At this Island are plenty of those small Sea Turtle spoken of in my last Chapter The 21st day Captain Eaton came to an anchor by us he was very willing to have consorted with us again but Captain Davis's Men were so unreasonable that they would not allow Captain Eaton's Men an equal share with them in what they got therefore Captain Eaton staid here but one night and the next day sailed from hence steering away to the Southward We staid no longer than the day ensuing and then we sailed toward Point St. Hellena intending there to land some Men purposely to get Prisoners for intelligence Point Santa Hellena bears South from the Island Plata It lies in lat 2d 15 m. South The Point is pretty high flat and even at top overgrown with many great Thistles but no sort of Tree at a distance it appears like an Island because the Land within it is very low This Point strikes out West into the Sea making a pretty large Bay on the North side A mile within the Point on the Sandy Bay close by the Sea there is a poor small Indian Village called Sancta Hellena the Land about it is low sandy and barren there are no Trees nor Grass growing near it neither do the Indians produce any Fruit Grain or Plant but Water-Melons only which are large and very sweet There is no fresh Water at this place nor near it therefore the Inhabitants are obliged to fetch all their Water from the River Colanche which is in the bottom of the Bay about 4 leagues from it Not far from this Town on the Bay close by the Sea about 5 paces from high-water mark there is a sort of bitumenous matter boils out of a little hole in the earth It is like thin Tar the Spaniards call it Algatrane By much boiling it becomes hard like Pitch It is frequently used by the Spaniards instead of Pitch and the Indians that inhabit here save it in Jars It boils up most at high water and. then the Indians are ready to receive it These Indians are Fishermen and go out to Sea on Bark-logs Their chief subsistence is Maiz most of which they get from Ships that come hither for Algatrane There is good anchoring to leeward of the Point right against the Village but on the West side of the Point it is deep Water and no anchoring The Spaniards do report that there was once a very rich Ship driven ashore here in calm for want of Wind to work her Assoon as ever she struck she heel'd off to Sea and fill'd with Water presently and then slid off to 7 or 8 fathom Water where she lies to this day none having attempted to fish for her because she lies deep and there falls in here a great high Sea When we were abreast of this Point we sent away our Canoas in the night to take the Indian Village They landed in the morning betimes close by the Town and took some Prisoners They took likewise a small Bark which the Indians had set on fire but our Men quenched it and took the Indian that did it who being asked wherefore he set the Bark on fire said That there was an Order from the Vice-Roy lately set out commanding all Sea-men to burn their Vessels if attacked by us and betake themselves to their Boats There was another Bark in a small Cove a mile from the Village thither our men went thinking to take her but the Sea-men that were aboard set her in flames and fled In the evening our men came aboard and brought the small Bark with them the fire of which they had quenched and then we returned again towards Plata where we arriv'd the 26th day of September In the evening we sent out some men in our Bark lately taken and Canoas to an Indian Village called Manta 2 or 3 leagues to the Westward of Cape St. Lorenzo hoping there to get other Prisoners for we could not learn from those we took at Point St. Hellena the reason why the Vice-Roy should give such orders to burn the Ships They had a fresh Sea-breeze till 12 a clock at night and then it proved Calm wherefore they rowed away with their Canoas as near to the Town as they thought convenient and lay still till day Manta is a small Indian Village on the Main distant from the Island Plata 7 or 8 leagues It slands so advantageously to be seen being built on a small ascent that it makes a very fair prospect to the Sea yet but a few poor scattering Indian houses There is a very fine Church adorned with a great deal of Carved work It was formerly a habitation of Spaniards but they are all removed from hence now The Land about it is dry and
were perfectly at a loss to find out the Houses or Town they came from The 28th day being tired and hopeless to find any Town we went aboard our Ships that were now come abrest of the place where we were for always when we leave our Ships we either order a certain place of meeting or else leave them a sign to know where we are by making one or more great Smoaks yet we had all like to have been ruin'd by such a signal as this in a former Voyage under Captain Sharp when we made that unfortunate attempt upon Arica which is mentioned in the History of the Buccaneers For upon the routing our Men and taking several of them some of those so taken told the Spaniards that it was agreed between them and their Companions on board to make two great Smokes at a distance from each other assoon as the Town should be taken as a signal to the Ship that it might safely enter the Harbour The Spaniards made these Smokes presently I was then among those who stay'd on board and whether the signal was not so exactly made or some other discouragement happen'd I remember not but we forbore going in till we saw our scatter'd Crew coming off in their Canoas Had we entred the Port upon the false signal we must have been taken or sunk for we must have past close by the Fort and could have had no Wind to bring us out till the Land-wind should rise in the night But to our present Voyage After we came aboard we saw the Volcan of Colima This is a very high Mountain in about 18d 36m North standing 5 or 6 leagues from the Sea in the midst of a pleasant Valley It appears with 2 sharp peeks from each of which there do always issue flames of fire or smoke The Valley in which this Volcan stands is called the Valley of Colima from the Town itself which stands there not far from the Volcan The Town is said to be great and rich the chief of all its Neighborhood and the Valley in which it is seated by the relation which the Spaniards give of it is the most pleasant and fruitful Valley in all the Kingdom of Mexico This Valley is about 10 or 12 leagues wide by the Sea where it makes a small Bay but how far the Vale runs into the Country I know not It is said to befull of Cacao gardens fields of Corn Wheat and Plantain-walks The neighbouring Sea is bounded with a sandy shore but there is no going ashore for the violence of the waves The Land within it is low all along and Woody for about 2 leagues from the East side at the end of the Woods there is a deep River runs out into the Sea but it hath such a great Bar or Sandy shole that when we were here no Boat or Canoa could possibly enter the Sea running so high upon the Bar otherwise I judge we should have made some farther discovery into this pleasant Valley On the West side of the River the Savannah land begins and runs to the other side of the Valley We had but little wind when we came aboard therefore we lay off this Bay that afternoon and the night ensuing The 29th day our Captains went away from our Ships with 200 men intending at the first convenient place to land and search about for a path for the Spanish Books make mention of 2 or 3 other Towns hereabouts especially one called Sallagua to the West of this Bay Our Canoas rowed along as near the shore as they could but the Sea went so high that they could not land About 10 or 11 a clock 2 Horsemen came near the shore and one of them took a Bottle out of his pocket and drank to ourmen While he was drinking one of our men snatcht up his Gun and let drive at him and kill'd his Horse so his consort immediately set Spurs to his Horse and rode away leaving the other to come after afoot But he being Booted made but slow haste therefore 2 of our men stript themselves and swam ashore to take him but he had a Macheat or long Knife wherewith he kept them both from seizing him they having nothing in their hands wherewith to defend themselves or offend him The 30th day our men came all aboard again for they could not find any place to land in The first day of December we passed by the Port of Sallagua This Port is in lat 18 d. 52 m. It is only a pretty deep Bay divided in the middle with a rocky point which makes as it were two Harbours Ships may ride securely in either but the West Harbour is the best there is good anchoring any where in 10 or 12 fathom and a Brook of fresh Water runs into the Sea Here we saw a great new thatched House and a great many Spaniards both Horse and Foot with Drums beating and Colours flying in defiance of us as we thought We took no notice of them till the next morning and then we landed about 200 Men to try their Courage but they presently withdrew The Foot never stay'd to exchange one shot but the Horsemen stay'd till 2 or 3 were knocked down and then they drew off our Men pursuing them At last 2 of our Men took 2 Horses that had lost their Riders and mounting them rode after the Spaniards full drive till they came among them thinking to have taken a Prisoner for Intelligence but had like to have been taken themselves for 4 Spaniards surrounded them after they had discharged their Pistols and unhorsed them and if some of our best Footmen had not come to their rescue they must have yielded or have been killed They were both cut in 2 or 3 places but their wounds were not mortal The 4 Spaniards got away before our Men could hurt them and mounting their Horses speeded after their Consorts who were marched away into the Country Our Men finding a broad Road leading into the Country followed it about 4 leagues in a dry stony Country full of short Woods but finding no sign of Inhabitants they returned again In their way back they took two Mulatto's who were not able to march as fast as their Consorts therefore they had skulked in the Woods and by that means thought to have escaped our Men. These Prisoners informed us that this great Road did lead to a great City called Oarrha from whence many of those Horsemen before spoken of came that this City was distant from hence as far as a Horse will go in 4 days and that there is no place of consequence nearer that the Country is very poor and thinly inhabited They said also that these Men came to assist the Phillippine Ship that was every day expected here to put ashore Passengers for Mexico The Spanish Pilot-Books mention a Town also called Sallagua hereabouts but we could not find it nor hear any thing of it by our Prisoners We now intended to cruize off of Cape
vocal Musick here by what I could learn except only a row of a kind of Bells without clappers 16 in number and their weight increasing gradually from about 3 to 10 pound weight These were set in a row on a Table on the Generals House where for 7 or 8 days together before the Circumcision day they were struck each with a little stick for the biggest part of the day making a great noise and they ceased that morning So these dancing Women sung themselves and danced to their own Musick After this the General 's Women and the Sultans Sons and his Nieces danced Two of the Sultans Nieces were about 18 or 19 years old the other two were 3 or 4 years younger These young Ladies were very richly drest with loose Garments of Silk and small Coronets on their Heads They were much fairer than any Women that I did ever see there and very well featured and their Noses tho but small yet higher than the other Womens and very well proportioned When the Ladies had very well diverted themselves and the company with dancing the General caused us to fire some Sky-rockets that were made by his and Captain Swan's order purposely for this nights solemnity and after that the Sultan and his retinue went away with a few attendants and we all broke up and thus ended this days solemnity but the Boys being sore with their Amputation went straddling for a fortnight after They are not as I said before very curious or strict in observing any days or times of particular Devotions except it be the Ramdam time as we call it The Ramdam time was then in August as I take it for it was shortly after our arrival here In this time they fast all day and about 7 a clock in the evening they spend near an hour in Prayer Towards the latter end of their Prayer they loudly invoke their Prophet for about a quarter of an hour both old and young bawling out very strangely as if they intended to fright him out of his sleepiness or neglect of them After their Prayer is ended they spend sometime in feasting before they take their repose Thus they do every day for a whole month at least for sometimes 't is 2 or 3 days longer before the RAmdam ends for it begins at the new Moon and lasts till they see the next new Moon which sometimes in thick hazy Weather is not till 3 or 4 days after the change as it happen'd while I was at Achin where they continued the Ramdam till the new Moons appearance The next day after they have seen the new Moon the Guns are all discharged about noon and then the time ends A main part of their Religion consists in washing often to keep themselves from being desiled or after they are defiled to cleanse themselves again They also take great care to keep themselves from being polluted by tasting or touching any thing that is accounted unclean therefore Swines flesh is very abominable to them nay any one that hath either tasted of Swines flesh or touched those Creatures is not permitted to come into their Houses in many days after and there is nothing will scare them more than a Swine Yet there are wild Hogs in the Islands and those so plentiful that they will come in Troops out of the Woods in the night into the very City and come under their Houses to romage up and down the filth that they find there The Natives therefore would even desire us to lye in wait for the Hogs to destroy them which we did frequently by shooting them and carrying them presently on board but were prohibited their Houses afterwards And now I am on this subject I cannot omit a story concerning the General He once desired to have a pair of Shoes made after the English fashion tho he did very seldom wear any So one of our men made him a pair which the General liked very well Afterwards some body told him that the Thread wherewith the Shoes were sowed were pointed with Hogs bristles This put him into a great passion so he sent the Shoes to the man that made them and sent him withal more Leather to make another pair with Threads pointed with some other hair which was immediately done and then he was well pleased CHAP. XIII Their coasting along the Isle of Mindanao from a Bay on the East side to another at the S. E. end Tornadoes and boisterous Weather The S. E. Coast and its Savannah and plenty of Deer They coast along the South side to the River of Mindanao City and anchor there The Sultans Brother and Son come aboard them and invite them to settle there Of the Feasibleness and probable Advantage of such a Settlement from the Neighbouring Gold and Spice Islands Of the best way to Mindanao by the South Sea and Terra Australis and of an accidental Discovery there by Captain Davis and a probability of a greater The capacity they were in to settle here The Mindanaians measure their Ship Captain Swan 's Present to the Sultan his Reception of it and Audience given to Captain Swan with Raja Laut the Sultans Brother's Entertainment of him The Contents of 2 English Letters shewn them by the Sultan of Mindanao Of the Commodities and the Punishment there The Generals Caution how to demean themselves at his Persuasion they lay up their Ships in the River The Mindanaians Caresses The great Rains and Floods at the City The Mindanaians have Chinese Accomptants How their Women dance A Story of one John Thacker Their Bark eaten up and their Ship indanger'd by the Worm Of the Worms here and elsewhere Of Captain Swan Raja Laut the General 's Deceitfulness Hunting wild Kine The Prodigality of some of the English Captain Swan treats with a young Indian of a Spice-Island A Hunting Voyage with the General His punishing a Servant of his Of his Wives and Women A sort of strong Rice Drink The Generals foul Dealing and Exactions Captain Swan s Uneasiness and indiscreet Management His Men mutiny Of a Snake twisting about one of their Necks The main part of the Crew go away with the Ship leaving Captain Swan and some of his Men several others poysoned there HAving in the two last Chapters given some account of the Natural Civil and Religious State of Mindanao I shall now go on with the prosecution of our affairs during our stay there 'T was in a Bay on the N. East side of the Island that we came to an anchor as hath been said We lay in this Bay but one night and part of the next day Yet there we got speech with some of the Natives who by signs made us understand that the City Mindanao was on the West side of the Island We endeavoured to perswade one of them to go with us to be our Pilot but he would not Therefore in the afternoon we loosed from hence steering again to the South East having the Wind at S. W. When we came to
strength it had how they were afraid of us there and of the accident that happen'd to them as is before mentioned in the 10th Chapter We took these two Vessels within 7 or 8 leagues of Manila Luconia I have spoken of already but I shall now add this further account of it It is a great Island taking up between 6 and 7 degrees of Lat. in length and its breadth near the middle is about 60 leagues but the ends are narrow The North end lies in about 19 d. North Lat. and the S. end in about 12 d. 30 m. This great Island hath abundance of small Keys or Islands lying about it especially at the North end The South side fronts towards the rest of the Philippine Islands of these that are its nearest Neighbours Mindora lately mentioned is the chief and gives name to the Sea or Streight that parts it and the other Islands from Luconia being called the Streights of Mindora A Prospect of y e Coast of y e I. Luconia near Manila at 6 L. off Shore y e highest Pike bearing East Thus the Islands Pulo Condor appear at 8 L. distance bearing South It is pretty well inhabited with Indians most of them if not all under the Spaniards who now are masters of it The Native Indians do live together in Towns and they have Priests among them to instruct them in the Spanish Religion Manila the chief or perhaps only City lies at the foot of a ridge of high Hills facing upon a spacious harbour near the S. W. point of the Island in about the Lat. of 14 d. North. It is environ'd with a high strong Wall and very well fortify'd with Forts and Breastworks The Houses are large strongly built and covered with Pan-tile The Streets are large and pretty regular with a Parade in the midst after the Spanish fashion There a great many fair Buildings besides Churches and other Religious houses of which there are not a few The Harbour is so large that some hundreds of Ships may ride here and is never without many both of their own and strangers I have already given you an account of the two Ships going and coming between this place and Acapulco Besides them they have some small Vessels of their own and they do allow the Portuguese to Trade here but the Chinese are the chiefest Merchants and they drive the greatest Trade for they have commonly 20 or 30 or 40 Jonks in the Harbour at a time and a great many Merchants constantly residing in the City beside Shop-keepers and Handy-crafts men in abundance Small Vessels run up near the Town but the Acapulco Ships and others of greater burthen lye a league short of it where there is a strong Fort also and Store-houses to put Goods in I had the major part of this relation 2 or 3 years after this time from Mr. Coppinger our Surgeon for he made a Voyage hither from Porta Nova a Town on the Coast of Coromandel in a Portugueze Ship as I think Here he found 10 or 12 of Captain Swan's men some of those that we left at Mindanao For after we came from thence they bought a Proe there by the instigation of an Irish-man who went by the name of John Fitz-Gerald a person that spoke Spanish very well and so in this their Proe they came hither They had been here but 18 months when Mr. Coppinger arrived here and Mr. Fitz-Gerald had in this time gotten a Spanish Mustesa Woman to Wife and a good Dowry with her He then professed Physick and Surgery and was highly esteemed among the Spaniards for his supposed Knowledge in those Arts For being always troubled with sore Shins while he was with us he kept some Plaisters and Salves by him and with these he set up upon his bare natural stock of knowledge and his Experience in Kibes But then he had a very great stock of confidence withal to help out the other and being an Irish Roman Catholick and having the Spanish Language he had a great advantage of all his Consorts and he alone lived well there of them all We were not within sight of this Town but I was shewn the Hills that over-looked it and drew a draft of them as we lay off at Sea which I have caused to be ingraven among a few others that I took my self See the Table The time of the year being now too far spent to do any thing here it was concluded to sail from hence to Pulo Condore a little parcel of Islands on the Coast of Cambodia and carry this prize with us and there careen if we could find any convenient place for it designing to return hither again by the latter end of May and wait for the Acapulco Ship that comes about that time By our Drafts which we were guided by being strangers to these parts this seemed to us then to be a place out of the way where we might lye snug for a while and wait the time of returning for our prey For we avoided as much as we could the going to lye by at any great place of Commerce lest we should become too much exposed and perhaps be assulted by a force greater than our own So having set our Prisoners ashore we sailed from Luconia the 26th day of Feb. with the Wind E. N. E. and fair weather and a brisk gale We were in lat 14d N. when we began to steer away for Pulo Condore and we steered S. by W. In our way thither we went pretty near the Shoals of Pracel and other Shoals which are very dangerous We were very much afraid of them but escaped them without so much as seeing them only at the very South end of the Pracel Shoals we saw 3 little sandy Islands or Spots of Sand standing just above water within a mile of us It was the 13th day of March before we came in sight of Pulo Condore or the Island Condore as Pulo signifies The 14th day about noon we anchored on the North side of the Island against a sandy Bay 2 mile from the shore in 10 fathom clean hard Sand with both Ship and Prize Pulo Condore is the principal of a heap of Islands and the only inhabited one of them They lye in lat 8 d. 40. m. North and about 20 leagues South and by East from the mouth of the River of Cambodia These Islands lye so near together that at a distance they appear to be but one Island Two of these Islands are pretty large and of a good heighth they may be seen 14 or 15 leagues at Sea the rest are but little Spots The biggest of the two which is the inhabited one is about 4 or 5 leagues long and lies East and West It is not above 3 mile broad at the broadest place in most places not above a mile wide The other large Island is about 3 mile long and half a mile wide This Island stretcheth N. and S. It is so conveniently placed at the West end
Mindanaian make for our own use which our Carpenters afterwards altered and made a delicate Boat fit for any service She was sharp at both ends but we saw'd off one and made that end flat fastening a Rudder to it and she rowed and sailed incomparably We stayed here but till the 12th day because it was a bad Harbour and foul ground and a bad time of the year too for the Tornadoes began to come in thick and strong When we went to weigh our Anchor it was hooked in a Rock and we broke our Cable and could not get our Anchor though we strove hard for it so we went away and left it there We had the Wind at N. N. E. and we steered towards the S. E. and fell in with 4 or 5 small Islands that lye in 5 d. 40 m. South lat and about 5 or 6 leagues from Callasusung Harbour These Islands appeared very green with Coco-nut Trees and we saw two or three Towns on them and heard a Drum all night for we were got in among shoals and could not get out again till the next day We know not whether the Drum were for fear of us or that they were making merry as 't is usual in these parts to do all the night singing and dancing till morning We found a pretty strong Tide here the flood setting to the Southward and the ebb to the Northward These shoals and many other that are not laid down in our Drafts lye on the South West side of the Islands where we heard the Drum about a league from them At last we past between the Islands and tried for a passage on the East side We met with divers shoals on this side also but found Channels to pass through so we steered away for the Island Timor intending to pass out by it We had the Winds commonly at W. S. W. and S. W. hard gales and rainy weather The 16th day we got clear of the shoals and steered S. by E. with the Wind at W. S. W. but veering every half hour sometimes at S. W. and then again at W. and sometimes at N. N. VV. bringing much Rain with Thunder and Lightening The 20th day we passed by the Island Omba which is a pretty high Island lying in lat 8 d. 20 m. and not above 5 or 6 leagues from the N. E. part of the Island Timor It is about 13 or 14 leagues long and five or six leagues wide About 7 or 8 leagues to the VVest of Omba is another pretty large Island but it had no name in our plats yet by the situation it should be that which in some Maps is called Pentare We saw on it abundance of smoaks by day and fires by night and a large Town on the North side of it nor far from the Sea but it was such bad weather that we did not go ashore Between Omba and Pentare and in the mid Channel there is a small low sandy Island with great shoals on either side but there is a very good Channel close by Pentare between that and the shoals about the small Isle We were three days beating off and on not having a wind for it was at South South West The 23d day in the evening having a small gale at North we got through keeping close by Pentare The Tide of ebb here set out to the Southward by which we were helped through for we had but little wind But this Tide which did us a kindness in setting us through had like to have ruined us afterwards for there are two small Islands lying at the South end of the Channel we came through and towards these Islands the Tide hurried us so swiftly that we very narrowly escaped being driven ashore for the little wind we had before at North dying away we had not one breath of wind when we came there neither was there an anchor ground But we got out our Oars and rowed yet all in vain for the Tide set wholly on one of the small Islands that we were forced with might and main strength to bear off the Ship by thrusting with our Oars against the shore which was a steep bank and by this means we presently drove away clear of Danger and having a little wind in the night at North we steered away S. S. W. In the morning again we had the wind at W. S. W. and steered S. and the wind coming to the W. N. W. we steered S. W. to get clear of the S. W. end of the Island Timor The 26th day we saw the N. W. point of Timor S. E. by E. distant about 8 leagues Timor is a long high mountainous Island stretching N. E. and S. VV. It is about 70 leagues long and 15 or 16 wide the middle of the Island is in Lat. about 9 d. South I have been informed that the Portuguese do trade to this Island but I know nothing of its produce besides Coire for making Cables of which there is mention Chap. X. The 27th day we saw two small Islands which lye near the S. W. end of Timor They bear from us S. E. We had very hard gales of wind and still with a great deal of Rain the wind at W. and W. S. W. Being now clear of all the Islands we stood off South intending to touch at New Holland a part of Terra Australis Incognita to see what that Country would afford us Indeed as the Winds were we could not now keep our intended course which was first Westerly and then Northerly without going to New Holland unless we had gone back again among the Islands but this was not a good time of the year to be among any Islands to the South of the Equator unless in a good Harbour The 31st day we were in lat 13 d. 20 m. still standing to the Southward the wind bearing commonly very hard at W. and we keeping upon it under 2 courses and our Mizen and sometimes a Main-top-sail rift About 10 a clock at night we tackt and stood to the Northward for fear of running on a shoal which is laid down in our Drafts in lat 13 d. 50 m. or thereabouts it bearing S. by W. from the East end of Timor and so the Island bore from us by our judgments and reckoning At 3 a clock we tackt again and stood S. by W. and S. S. W. In the morning assoon as it was day we saw the shoal right ahead it lies in 13 d. 50 m. by all our reckonings It is a small spit of hand just appearing above the waters edge with several Rocks about it 8 or 10 foot high above water It lies in a triangular form each side being about a league and half We stemm'd right with the middle of it and stood within half a mile of the Rocks and sounded but found no ground Then we went about and stood to the North 2 hours and then tackt and stood to the Southward again thinking to weather it but could not So
received this information by a Letter from the Frier that Captain Weldon brought away from thence But to proceed The 5th day of May we ran down on the West side of the Island Nicobar properly so called and anchored at the N. W. end of it in a small Bay in 8 fathom water not half a mile from the shore The body of this Island is in 7 d. 30 m. North Lat. it is about 12 leagues long and 3 or 4 broad The South end of it is pretty high with steep Cliffs against the Sea the rest of the Island is low flat and even The mold of it is black and deep and it is very well watered with small running streams It produceth abundance of tall Trees fit for any uses for the whole bulk of it seems to be but one entire Grove But that which adds most to its beauty off at Sea are the many spots of Coco-nut Trees which grow round it in every small Bay The Bays are half a mile or a mile long more or less and these Bays are intercepted or divided from each other with as many little rocky points of VVoodland As the Coco-nut Trees do thus grow in Groves fronting to the Sea in the Bays so there is another sort of Fruit Tree in the Bays bordering on the backside of the Coco Trees farther from the Sea It is called by the Natives a Melory Tree This Tree is as big as our large Apple Trees and as high It hath a blackish rind and a pretty broad leaf The Fruit is as big as the Bread-fruit at Guam described in Chapter X. or a large Penny Loaf It is shaped like a Pear and hath a pretty tough smooth rind of a light green colour The inside of the Fruit is in substance much like an Apple but full of small strings as big as a brown thread I did never see of these Trees any where but here The Natives of this Island are tall well-limb'd Men pretty long visaged with black Eyes their Noses middle proportioned and the whole Symmetry of their Faces agreeing very well Their Hair is black and lank and their Skins of a dark copper colour The Women have no Hair on their Eye-brows I do believe it is pluckt up by the roots for the Men had Hair growing on their Eye-brows as other People The Men go all naked save only a long narrow piece of cloath or Sash which going round their Wastes and thence down between their Thighs is brought up behind and tuckt in at that part which goes about the Waste The Women have a kind of a short Petticoat reaching from their Waste to their Knees Their Language was different from any that I had ever heard before yet they had some few Malayan words and some of them had a word or two of Portuguese which probably they might learn aboard of their Ships passing by this place for when these Men see a Sail they do presently go aboard of them in their Canoas I did not perceive any Form of Religion that they had they had neither Temple nor Idol nor any manner of outward veneration to any Deity that I did see They inhabit all round the Island by the Sea side in the Bays there being 4 or 5 Houses more or less in each Bay Their Houses are built on Posts as the Mindanaians are They are small low and of a square form There is but one Room in each House and this Room is about 8 foot from the ground and from thence the roof is raised about 8 foot higher But instead of a sharp ridge the top is exceeding neatly arched with small Rafters about the bigness of a Mans Arm bent round like a Half-Moon and very curiously thatched with Palmeto-leaves They live under no Government that I could perceive for they seem to be equal without any distinction every Man ruling in his own House Their Plantations are only those Coco-nut Trees which grow by the Sea side there being no cleared Land farther in on the Island for I observ'd that when past the Fruit Trees there were no paths to be seen going into the Woods The greatest use which they make of their Coco-Trees is to draw Toddy from them of which they are very fond The Melory Trees seem to grow wild they have great Earthen Pots to boil the Melory Fruit in which will hold 12 or 14 Gallons These Pots they fill with the Fruit and putting in a little water they cover the mouth of the Pot with leaves to keep in the steam while it boils When the Fruit is soft they peel off the rind and scrape the pulp from the strings with a flat stick made like a Knife and then make it up in great lumps as big as a Holland Cheese and then it will keep 6 or 7 days It looks yellow and tastes well and is their chiefest food for they have no Yams Potatoes Rice nor Plantains except a very few yet they have a few small Hogs and a very few Cocks and Hens like ours The Men imploy themselves in Fishing but I did not see much Fish that they got every House hath at least 2 or 3 Canoas belonging to it which they draw up ashore The Canoas that they go a fishing in are sharp at both ends and both the sides and the bottom are very thin and smooth They are shaped somewhat like the Proes at Guam with one side flattish and the other with a pretty big belly and they have small slight Outlagers on one side Being thus thin and light they are better managed with Oars than with Sails yet they sail well enought and are steer'd with a Paddle There commonly go 20 or 30 Men in one of these Canoas and seldom fewer than 9 or 10. Their Oars are short and they do not paddle but row with them as we do The Benches they sit on when they row are made of split Bambo's laid across and so near together that they look like a Deck The Bambos lie moveable so that when any go in to row they take up a Bambo in the place where they would sit and lay it by to make room for their Legs The Canoas of those of the rest of these Islands were like those of Nicobar and probably they were alike in other things for we saw no difference at all in the Natives of them who came hither while we were here But to proceed with our affairs it was as I said before the 5th day of May about 10 in the morning when we anchored at this Island Captain Read immediately ordered his Men to heel the Ship in order to clean her which was done this day and the next All the Water Vessels were fill'd they intending to go to Sea at night for the winds being yet at N. N. E. the Captain was in hopes to get over to Cape Comorin before the wind shifted Otherwise it would have been somewhat difficult for him to get thither because the Westerly Monsoon was now at hand I thought
Dutch was much infested by them These Indians as I have heard had formerly Plantations on most of the Caribbe Islands and in their Sea Voyages did use to remain 3 Weeks or a Month at a time on an Island and then remove to another and so visit most of them before their return to the main St. Vincent is another of these Islands lying near St. Lucia We passed between them and seeing a smoke on St. Lucia we sent our Boat ashore there Our Men found some of the Caribee-Indians and bought of them Plantains Bonanos Pine Apples and Sugar Canes and returning aboard again there came with them a Canoa with 3 or 4 of the Indians These often repeated the word Captain Warner and seemed to be in some disquiet about him We did not then understand the meaning of it but since I have been informed that this Captain Warner whom they mentioned was born at Antego one of our English Islands and the Son of Governour Warner by an Indian Woman and bred up by his Father after the English manner he learned the Indian Language also of his Mother but being grown up and finding himself despised by his English Kindred he forsook his Fathers House got away to St. Lucia and there lived among the Caribbe Indians his Relations by the Mother side Where conforming himself to their Customs he became one of their Captains and roved from one Island to another as they did About this time the Caribbees had done some spoil on our English Plantations at Antego and therefore Governour Warner's Son by his Wife took a Party of Men and went to suppress those Indians and came to the place where his Brother the Indian Warner lived Great seeming Joy there was at their Meeting but how far it was real the Event shewed for the English Warner providing plenty of Liquor and inviting his half Brother to be merry with him in the midst of his Entertainment ordered his Men upon a signal given to murder him and all his Indians which was accordingly performed The Reason of this inhumane Action is diversly reported Some say that this Indian-Warner committed all the spoil that was done to the English and therefore for that Reason his Brother kill'd him and his Men. Others that he was a great Friend to the English and would not suffer his Men to hurt them but did all that lay in his power to draw them to an amicable Commerce and that his Brother kill'd him for that he was ashamed to be related to an Indian But be it how it will he was call'd in question for the Murder and forced to come home to take his Tryal in England Such perfidious Doings as these beside the Baseness of them are great hindrances of our gaining an Interest among the Indians Putting from these Islands we steered away further West and falling in with the East end of Hispaniola we ranged down along on the South side even to Cape Tiburon which is the West-end of the Island There we lay by and sent our Boat ashore for Captain Kent had been informed that there were great Groves of Orange-Trees near this Cape But our Men not finding any he then concluded there were none But I have been since informed my self by several that have been there that there are enough of them thereabouts From hence we steered away for Jamaica where we arrived in a short time bringing with us the first News they had of the Peace with the Dutch Here according to my Contract I was immediately discharged and the next day I went to the Spanish Town call'd Sant ' Jago de la Vega where meeting with Mr. Whalley we went together to Coll. Hellier's Plantation in 16 Mile-walk In our way thither we past through Sir Tho. Muddiford's Plantation at the Angells where at that time were Otta and Cacao-Trees growing and fording a pretty large River we past by the side of it 2 or 3 Miles up the stream there being high Mountains on each side The way to 16 Mile-walk was formerly a great deal about round a large Mountain till Mr. Cary Helliar the Collonel's Brother found out this way For being desirous of making out a shorter cut he and some others coasted along the River till they found it run between a Rock that stood up perpendicularly steep on each side and with much difficulty they climbed over it But a Dog that belonged to them finding a hole to creep through the Rock suggested to them that there was a hollow Passage and he clear'd it by blowing up the Rock with Gunpowder till he had made a way through it broad enough for a Horse with a Pack and high enough for a Man to Ride through This is called the Hollow Rock Some other Places he levell'd and madeit an indifferent good Passage He was a very Ingenious Gentleman and doubtless had he lived might have propagated some advantagious Arts on that Island He was once endeavouring to make Salt Petre at the Angells but did not bring it to Perfection Whether the Earth there was not right I know not but probably there may be Salt-Petre-Earth in other Places especially about Passage-Fort where as I have been informed the Canes will not make good Sugar by Reason of the saltness of the Soil I liv'd with Mr. Whalley at 16 Mile-walk for almost six Months and then entred my self into the Service of one Captain Heming to manage his Plantation at St. Anns on the Northside of the Island and accordingly rode from St. Jago de la Vega toward St. Anns. This Road has but sorry Accommodations for Travellers The first Night I lay at a poor Hunters Hut at the foot of Mount Diabolo on the South side of it where for want of Cloaths to cover me in the Night I was very cold when the Land-wind sprang up This Mountain is part of the great Ridge that runs the length of the Island from East to West to the East 't is call'd the Blew Mountain which is higher than this The next Day crossing Mount Diabolo I got a hard Lodging at the Foot of it on the North side and the third day after arrived at Captain Heming's Plantation I was clearly out of my Element there and therefore as soon as Captain Heming came thither I disingaged my self from him and took my passage on Board a Sloop to Port-Royal with one Mr. Statham who used to Trade round the Island and touched there at that time From Port-Royal I sail'd with one Mr. Fishook who traded to the North-side of the Island and sometimes round it And by those coasting Voyages I came acquainted with all the Ports and Bays about Jamaica and with all their Manufactures as also with the Benefit of the Land and Sea-winds For our Business was to bring Goods to or carry them from Planters to Port-Royal and we were always entertained civilly by them both in their Houses and Plantations having Liberty to walk about and view them They gave us also Plantains
Islands lying in the Lat. of about 23 d. North and distant from the Coast of Jucatan about 25 Leagues the biggest is not above a Mile or two in Circuit They are distant from one another 2 or 3 Miles not lying in a Line but soattering here and there with good Channels of 20 or 30 Fathom Water for a Ship to pass between All of them have good Anchoring on the West sides where you may ride in what depths you please from 10 to 2 Fathom Water clean sandy Ground On some there are a few low Bushes of Burton-Wood but they are mostly Barren and Sandy bearing nothing but only a little Chicken-Weed neither have they any fresh Water Their Land-Animals are only large Rats which are in great Plenty and of Fowls Boobies in vast abundance with Men of War and Egg-Birds These inhabit only on some of the Northermost of them not promiscuously one among another but each sort within their own Precincts viz. the Boobies and the other two sorts each a-part by themselves and thus two or three of the Islands are wholly taken up The Boobies being most numerous have the greatest portion of Land The Egg-Birds tho' they are many yet being but small take up but little room to the rest Yet in that little part which they inhabit they are sole Masters and not disturbed by their Neighbours All three sorts are very tame especially the Boobies and so thick settled that a Man cannot pass through their Quarters without coming within reach of their Bills with which they continually peck't at us I took notice that they sate in Pairs and therefore at first thought them to be Cock and Hen but upon striking at them one flew away from each place and that which was left behind seemed as malicious as the other that was gone I admired at the boldness of those that did not fly away and used some sort of violence to force them but in vain for indeed these were young Ones and had not yet learned the use of their Wings tho' they were as big and as well feathered as their Dams only their Feathers were something whiter and fresher I took notice that an old one either the Cock or Hen always sat with the Young to secure them for otherwise these Fowls would prey on each other the Strong on the Weak at least those of a different Kind would make bold with their Neighbours The Men-of-War-Birds as well as the Boobies left Guardians to the Young when they went off to Sea lest they should be starved by their Neighbours for there were a great many old and lame Men of War Birds that could not fly off to Sea to seek their own Food These did not inhabit among their Consorts but were either expelled the Community or else chose to lye out at some distance from the rest and that not altogether but scattering here and there where they could rob securest I saw near 20 of them on one of the Islands which sometimes would sally into the Camp to seek for Booty but presently retreated again whether they got any thing or nothing If one of these lame Birds found a Young Booby not guarded it presently gave him a good poult on the back with his Bill to make him disgorge which they will do with one stroak and it may be cast up a Fish or two as big as a Mans Wrist this they swallow in a trice and march off and look out for another Prize The sound Men-of-War will sometimes serve the old Boobies so off at Sea I have seen a Man-of-War fly directly at a Booby and give it one blow which has caused it to cast up a large Fish and the Man of War flying directly down after it has taken it in the Air before it reach'd the Water There are abundance of Fish at some distance from these Islands by which the Fowls inhabiting here are daily supplied The Fish near the Island are Sharks Sword Fishes and Nurses all three sorts delighting to be near sandy Bays those that I saw here were but of a small size the Sword-Fish not above a Foot and a half or two Foot long neither were the Sharks much longer and the Nurses about the same length The Nurse is just like a Shark only its skin is rougher and is used for making the finest Rasps Here are many Seals they come up to sun themselves only on two or three of the Islands I don't know whether exactly of the same kind with those in colder Climates but as I have noted in my former Book they always live where there is plenty of Fish To the North of these Islands lyes a long ledge of Rocks bending like a Bow it seems to be 10 or 12 Yards wide and about 4 Leagues long and 3 Leagues distant from the Island They are above Water all joyning very close to one another except at one or two Places where are small Passages about nine or ten Yards Wide 't was through one of these that Providence directed us in the Night for the next Morning we saw the Riff about half a Mile to the North of us and right against us was a small Gap by which we came in hither but coming to view it more nearly with our Boat we did not dare to venture out that way again One Reason why we would have gone out to the Northward was because from our Main-top we saw the Islands to the Southward of us and being unacquainted knew not whether we might find among them a Channel to pass through our second reason was the hopes of making a better slant in for the shore if we could weather the East end of the Riff In order to this we weighed Anchor keeping down by the side of the Riff till we were at the West end of it which was about a League from where we Anchored then we stood off to the North and there kept plying off and on to Weather the East end of the Riff three Days but not being able to effect it by reason of a strong Current setting to the N. W. we ran back again to the West end of the Riff and steered away for the Islands There we Anchored and lay three or four days and visited most of them and found plenty of such Creatures as I have already described Though here was great store of such good Food and we like to want yet we did neither salt any nor spend of it fresh to save our Stock I found them all but one Man averse to it but I did heartily wish them of another mind because I dreaded wanting before the end of the Voyage a hazard which we needed not to run there being here such plenty of Fowls and Seals especially of the latter that the Spaniards do often come hither to make Oyl of their Fat upon which account it has been visited by English men from Jamaica particularly by Capt. Long who having the command of a small Bark came hither purposely to make Seal-Oyl and
anchored on the North side of one of the sandy Islands the most convenient Place for his design Having got ashore his Cask to put his Oyl in and set up a Tent for lodging himself and his Goods he began to kill the Seal and had not wrought above three or four Days before a fierce North-wind blew his Bark ashore By good fortune she was not damnified but his company being but small and so despairing of setting her afloat again they fell to contriving how to get away a very difficult Task to accomplish for it was 24 or 25 Leagues to the nearest Place of the Main and above 100 Leagues to Trist which was the next English settlement But contrary to their expectation instead of that Captain Long bid them follow their Work of Seal-killing and making Oyl assuring them that he would undertake at his own peril to carry them safe to Trist. This though it went much against the grain yet at last he so far prevailed by fair Words that they were contented to go on with their Seal-killing till they had filled all their Cask But their greatest work was yet to do viz. how they should get over to the Main and then Coast down before the Wind to Trist. Their Boat was not big enough to transport them so they concluded to cut down the Barks Masts and rip up her Deck to make a float for that purpose This being agreed on the next Morning betimes pursuant to their Resolution they were going to break up their Vessel but it happened that very Night that two New-England Ketches going down to Trist ran on the backside of the Riff where they struck on the Rocks and were bulged And Captain Long and his Crew seeing them in Distress presently took their Boat and went off to help them unlade their Goods and bring them ashore and in requital they furnished the Captain with such tackle and other Necessaries as he wanted and assisted him in the launching his Vessel and lading his Oyl and so they went merrily away for Trist This lucky accident was much talk'd of amongst the C's Crew and so exasperated the New-England Men when they heard the whole story that they were thinking if their Commanders would have suffered them to have thrown him into the Sea to prevent his doing more mischief For they were sure that he by his Art had caused them to run aground The whole of this Relation I had from Captain Long himself From the main to these Islands the Sea deepens gradually till you come to about 30 Fathom Water and when you are 25 or 26 Leagues off shore to the Eastward of them if you steer away West keeping in that depth you cannot miss them The same Rule is to be observed to find any other Island as the Triangles the Isles Des Arenas c. for the Bank runs all along the shore on which are Soundings of equal depth and the Sea appears of a muddy palish Colour but when past the Bank on the North side of it it resumes its natural greeness and is too deep for any Sounding till you are within 30 Leagues of the North side of the Bay of Mexico where by relation there is such another Bank abounding with Oysters running all along the shore But to return to our Voyage Having spent 2 or 3 days among the Alcranes Islands we set sail again and steering in Southerly for the Main having the Wind at E. N. E. we fell in with it a little to Leeward of Cape Catoch plying under the shore till we reach'd the Cape from thence we continued our Course Northerly the Wind at E. by S. The next Land we designed for was Cape Antonio which is the Westermost Point of the Island Cuba and distant from Cape Catoch about 40 Leagues Some when they sail out of the Bay keep along by the Land of Jucatan till they come as far as the Island Cozumel and from thence stretch over towards Cuba and if the Wind favours them any thing they will get as high as Cape Corientes before they fall in with Cuba for in their Passage from thence they are not in so much danger of being hurried away to the North by the Current between the two Capes or to the North of them as we were For taking our Course Northward till the Lat. of 22 d. 30 m. we tack'd again and the Wind at E. steered away S. S. E. 24 hours and having taken an Observation of the Sun as we did the day before found our selves in 23 d. being driven backwards in 24 hours 30 Miles We had then the Channel open between the two Capes but to the North of either Yet at last we got over to the Cuba shore and fell in with the North of the Island about 7 or 8 Leagues from Cape Antonio Now we both saw and ran thro' some of the Colorado Sholes but found a very good Channel among a great many Rocks that appeared above Water Being thus got within the Sholes between them and Cuba we found a pretty wide clear Channel and good Anchoring and advancing further within a League of the Cape we Anchored and went ashore to get Water but found none In the Evening when the Land-wind sprung up we weighed again and doubling the Cape coasted along on the South side of the Island taking the Advantages both of Sea and Land-winds For though we had now been about two Months from Trist and this the time of the Year for Norths yet to our great trouble they had hitherto failed us and besides as I said before our Ketch was such a Leewardly Vessel that we did not yet expect we could possibly reach Jamaica meerly by turning though sometimes assisted by Sea and Land-Winds In about a Week after this we got up with and coasted along the Isle of Pines for 7 or 8 Leagues and then stood off to Sea and the third Morning fell in with the West end of grand Caymanes This Island is about 40 Leagues South from Pines and about 15 to the West of little Caymanes we anchored at the West end about half a Mile from the shore We found no Water nor any Provision but saw many Crocodiles on the Bay some of which would scarce stir out of the way for us We kill'd none of them which we might easily have done though Food began to be short withus indeed had it been in the Months of June or July we might probably have gotten Turtle for they frequent this Island some Years as much as they do little Caymanes We stayed here but 3 or 4 hours and steered back for Pines intending there to hunt for Beef or Hog of both which there is in great plenty The second day in the Morning we fell in with the West end of Pines and running about 4 or 5 Miles Northward we anchored in 4 Fathom Water clean Sand about two Mile from the shore and right-against a small Creek through the Mangroves into a wide Lagune The Isle of
Pines lyes on the South side towards the West end of Cuba and is distant from it 3 or 4 Leagues Cape Corientes on Cuba is five or six Leagues to the Westward of the Isle of Pines Between Pines and Cuba are many small woody Islands scattered here and there with Channels for Ships to pass between and by report there is good anchoring near any of them Jamaica Sloops do sometimes pass through between Cuba and Pines when they are bound to Wind-ward because there the Sea is always smooth They are also certain to meet good Land-winds besides they can Anchor when they please and thereby take the benefit of the Tides and when they are got past the East end of Pines they may either stand out to Sea again or if they are acquainted among the small Islands to the East of it which are called the South Keys of Cuba they may range amongst them to the Eastward still taking the greater benefit of Land-winds and Anchoring Besides if Provision is scarce they will meet Jamaica Turtlers or else may get Turtle themselves at which many of them are expert There is also plenty of Fish of many sorts but if they are not provided with Hooks Lines or Harpoons or any other Fishing-Craft nor meet with any Turtlers Cuba will afford them Sustenance of Hog or Beef The great Inconvenience of going in the inside of Pines between it and Cuba proceeds from a Spanish Garrison of about 40 Soldiers at Cape Corientes who have a large Periago well fitted with Oars and Sails and are ready to launch out and seize any small Vessel and seldom spare the Lives as well as the Goods of those that fall into their Hands for fear of telling Tales Such Villanies are frequently practised not only here but also in several other Places of the West Indies and that too with such as came to Trade with their Country-men The Merchants and Gentry indeed are no way guilty of such Actions only the Soldiers and Rascality of the People and these do commonly consist of Mulatoes or some other sort of Copper Colour Indians who are accounted very Barbarous and Cruel The Isle of Pines is about 11 or 12 Leagues long and 3 or 4 broad The West end of it is low Mangrovy Land and within which is a Lagune of about 3 or 4 Miles wide running to the Eastward but how far I know not with a small Creek of 2 or 3 Foot Water reaching to the Sea The Lagune it self is so shallow especially near the Island that you cannot bring a Canoa within 20 or 30 Paces of the shore The South side of the Island is low flat and rocky the Rocks are perpendicularly steep towards the Sea so that there is no Anchoring on that side but at the West end very good in sandy Ground The body of the Island is high Land with many little Hills incompassing a high Pike or Mountain standing in the middle The Trees that grow here are of divers sorts most of them unknown to me Red Mangroves grow in the low swampy Land against the Sea but on the firm hilly part Pine-Trees are most plentiful of these here are great Groves of a good height and bigness streight and large enough to make Topmasts or standing Masts for small Vessels at the West end there is a pretty big River of fresh Water but no coming at it near the Sea for red Mangroves which grow so thick on both sides of it that there is no getting in among them The Land-Animals are Bullocks Hogs Dear c. here are small Savannahs for the Bullocks and Deer to feed in as well as Fruit in the Woods for the Hogs Here are also a sort of Racoons or Indian Conies and in some Places plenty of Land-Turtle and Land-Crabs of two sorts white and black Both of them make holes in the Ground like Conies where they shelter themselves all day and in the Night come out to feed they will eat Grass Herbs or such Fruit as they find under the Trees The Manchaniel Fruit which neither Bird nor Beast will taste is greedily devoured by them without doing them any harm Yet these very Crabs that feed on Manchaneel are venomous both to Man and Beast that feeds on them though the others are very good Meat The white Crabs are the largest sort some of them are as big as a Mans two Fists joyned together they are shaped like Sea-Crabs having one large Claw wherewith they will pinch very hard neither will they let go their hold though you bruise them in pieces unless you break the Claw too but if they chance to catch your Fingers the way is to lay your Hand Crab and all flat on the Ground and he will immediately loose his hold and scamper away These white ones build in wet swampy dirty Ground near the Sea so that the Tide washes into their Holes but the black Crab is more cleanly delighting to live in dry Places and makes its House in sandy Earth Black Crabs are commonly fat and full of Eggs they are also accounted the better Meat tho' both sorts are very good Here are also a great many Alligators and Crocodiles that haunt about this Island and are said to be the most daring in all the West Indies I have heard of many of their Tricks as that they have followed a Canoa and put their Noses in over the Gunnal with their Jaws wide open as if ready to devour the Men in it And that when they have been ashore in the Night near the Sea the Crocodiles have boldly come in among them and made them run from their Fire and taken away their Meat from them Therefore when Privateers are hunting on this Island they always keep Sentinels out to watch for these ravenous Creatures as duly as they do in other Places for fear of Enemies especially in the Night for fear of being devoured in their sleep The Spaniards of Cuba have here some Craules i. e. Herds of Hogs with a few Indians or Mulatoes to look after them Here are also Hunters that gain a livelihood by killing wild Hog and Beef This Island is reported to be very wet I have heard many say that it rains here more or less every day in the Year but this I suppose is a mistake for there fell no Rain about us so long as we stayed here neither did I see any appearance of it in other Places of the Island We were no sooner at an Anchor but five of us went ashore leaving only the Cook and Cabbin-Boy aboard We had but two bad fowling Pieces in the Ship those we took with us with a design to Kill Beef and Hog We went into the Lagune where we found Water enough for our Canoa and in some Places not much to spare when we were got almost over it we saw 8 or 10 Bulls and Cows feeding on the shore close by the Sea This gave us great hopes of good success We therefore rowed away aside off the
Savannah with some large Palmeto-Trees growing in it The North side of the VVest end is full of Coco-Plum-Bushes and some Grapes The Coco-Plum-Bush is about 8 or 9 Foot high spreading out into many Branches It s Rind black and smooth the Leaves oval and pretty large and of a dark Green The Fruit is about the bigness of a Horse-Plum but round some are black some white others redish The Skin of the Plum is very thin and smooth the inside white soft and woolly rather fit to suck than bite inclosing in the middle a large soft Stone This Fruit grows commonly in tho Sand near the Sea and I have tasted some that have been saltish but they are commonly sweet and pleasant enough and accounted very wholsom The Body of the Grape-Tree is about two or three Foot in Circumference growing 7 or 8 Foot high then sends forth many Branches whose Twigs are thick and gross the Leaves are shaped much like an Ivy Leaf but broader and more hard the Fruit is as big as an ordinary Grape growing in Bunches or Clusters among the Twigs all over the Tree it is black when ripe and the inside redish with a large hard Stone in the middle This Fruit is very pleasant and wholsom but of little substance the Stones being so large The Body and Limbs of the Tree are good Fewel making a clear strong fire therefore often used by the Privateers to harden the Steels of their Guns when faulty The Animals of this Island are Lizards Guanoes Snakes and Dear Beside the Common small Lizard there is another sort of a large kind called a Lyon-Lizard This Creature is shaped much like the other but almost as big as a Man's Arm and it has a large Comb on its head when it is assaulted it sets its Comb up an end but otherways it lyes down flat Here are two or three sorts of Snakes some very large as I have been told At the West end of the Island close by the Sea you may dig in the Sand 5 or 6 Foot deep and find good fresh Water There are commonly VVells ready made by Seamen to water their Ships but they soon fill up if not cleared and if you dig too deep your VVater will be salt This Island was seldom clear of Inhabitants when the English visited the Bay for Logwood for the biggest Ships did always ride here in 6 or 7 Fathom Water close by the Shore but smaller Vessels ran up 3 Leagues farther to One-Bush-Key of which in my former Chapter The second Mouth or Entrance into this Lagune is between Trist and Beef-Island and is about 3 Mile wide It is shoal without and only two Channels to come in The deepest Channel on a Spring Tide has 12 Foot Water It lyes near the middle of the Mouth hard Sand on the Barr the West Channel is about 10 Foot Water and lies pretty near Beef-Island You run in with the Sea-Breez and sound all the way taking your Sounding from Beef-Island shore The bottom is soft Oaz and it shoots gradually Being shot in within Beef-Island Point you will have three fathom then you may stand over towards Trist till you come near the Shore and there Anchor as you please There is good Anchoring any where within the Bar between Trist and Beef-Island but the Tide is much stronger than at Port-Royal This is the other Mouth or opening to the Salt Lagune before-mentioned This Lagune is call'd by the Spaniards Laguna Termina or the Lagune of Tides because they run very strong here Small Vessels as Barks Periagoes or Canoas may sail thro' this Lagune from one Mouth to the other or into such Creeks Rivers or smaller Lagunes as empty themselves into this of which here are many The first of Note on the East part of this Lagune as you come in at Port-Royal is the River Summasenta This River though but small yet it is big enough for Pereagoes to enter It disembogues on the South side near the middle of the Lagune There was formerly an Indian Village named Summasenta near the Mouth of the River and another large Indian Town called Chucquebul 7 or 8 Leagues up in the Country This latter was once taken by the Privateers by whom I have been informed that there were about 2000 Families of Indians in it and two or three Churches and as many Spanish Friers though no white Men beside The Land near this River yields plenty of Logwood From Summasenta River to One-Bush-Key is 4 or 5 Leagues the shore running West I have described One-Bush-Key and the Creek against it which as I said is very narrow and not above a Mile long before it opens into another wide Lake lying nearest N. and S. called the East Lagune It is about a League and half wide and 3 Leagues long encompassed with Mangrove-Trees At the S. E. corner of it there is another Creek about a Mile wide at the Mouth running 6 or 7 Mile into the Country on both sides of it grows plenty of Logwood therefore it was inhabited by Englishmen who lived in small Companies from three to ten in a Company and settled themselves at their best Convenience for Cutting At the Head of the Creek they made a path leading into a large Savanah full of black Cattle Horses and Deer which was often visited by them upon occasion At the North end and about the middle of the East Lagune there is another small Creek like that which comes out against One-Bush-Key but less and shallower which dischargeth it self into Laguna Termina against a small sandy Key called by the English Serles's Key from one Captain Serles who first carried his Vessel here and was afterwards killed in the Western Lagune by one of his company as they were cutting Logwood together This Captain Serles was one of Sir Henry Morgans Commanders at the Sacking of Panama who being sent out to cruise in a small Vessel in the South Seas happened to surprize at Toboca the Boatswain and most of the Crew belonging to the Trinity a Spanish Ship on Board which were the Friers and Nuns with all the old Gentlemen and Matrons of the Town to the number of 1500 Souls besides an immense Treasure in Silver and Gold as I was informed by Captain Peralta who then Commanded her as he did afterwards when she was taken by Captain Sharp all which he might have taken in the Ship had he pursued her On the West side of the East Lagune there is a small Skirt of Mangroves that separates it from another running Parallel with it called the East Lagune which is about the bigness of the former Towards the North end of this Laguue runs a small Creek coming out of the East Lagune deep enough for small Barks to pass through At the South end of this Lagune there is a Creek about a Mile wide at its Mouth and half a Mile from thence it divides into two Branches one called the East the other the West Branch both deep
which places I have travelled over from Sea to Sea yet because these are but small Tracts of Land in comparison with the two main Bodies of Land of Mexico and Peru and those vast Regions in Asia and Africa lying within the Tropicks I cannot determine whether the Land-Winds are there as I have found them in my small Travels therefore I shall only confine this particular Discourse to these and other Places within my own Observations I shall begin first with the Isthmus of Darien there I have found the Land-Winds in the middle of the Country blowing all Night and till 10 or 11 a Clock in the Morning before I could perceive the Sea-Breeze to arise and that not discernable many times but by the flying of the Clouds especially if I was in a Valley and it was in Vallies that I did chiefly perceive the Land-Winds which blew in some places one way in others contrary or side ways to that according as the Vallies lay pend up between the Mountains and that without any respect to either the North or the South Seas but indeed near either side of the Land they always bent their course towards the nearest Sea unless there was any Hill between them and the Sea and then they took their Course along in the Vallies but from both shores as well from the North as the South they blow right forth into the Sea In the Island of Jamaica these Land-Winds are in the middle of the Country also I have found them so as I travelled from one side of the Island to the other having lain 2 Nights by the way as I had before observed them when I liv'd at 16 Miles Walk where I continued about 6 Months but there and in other Islands the Land-Winds do blow towards the nearest shores and so from thence off to Sea whether the shore's lye East West North or South These Winds blow off to Sea a greater or less distance according as the Coast lies more or less exposed to the Sea-Winds For in some Places we find them brisk 3 or 4 Leagues off shore in other Places not so many Miles and in some Places they scarce peep without the Rocks or if they do sometimes in very fair Weather make a sally out a Mile or 2 they are not lasting but suddenly vanish away though yet there are every Night as fresh Land-Winds ashore at those Places as in any other part of the World Places most remarkable for the fewest or faintest Land-Winds are those that lye most open to the Common Trade-Winds as the East ends of any Islands where the Trade-Winds do blow in upon the Shore or the Head-Lands on Islands or Continents that are open to the Sea-Breez especially where the Trade-Wind blows down side-ways by the Coast for there such Head-Lands as stretch farthest out to Sea are most exposed to Winds from the Sea and have the less benefit of the Land-Breezes I shall give a few Instances of either And first of all begin with the N. E. and S. E. Points of the Island of Jamaica These Points are at the East end of the Island one is at the very Extreme of the North side towards the East the other on the South Extreme towards the same Point at these two Places we seldom light of a Land-Wind nor very often at the end of the Island between them except near the shore For that Reason the Sloop-men of Jamaica that Trade round the Island are commonly put to their Trumps when they come there in their Voyages For if they meet no Land-Wind they are obliged to beat about by turning to wind-ward against the Sea-Breez in the Day time they then curse these Points of Land and are foolishly apt to believe that some Daemon haunts there And if they are 2 or 3 Days in beating about as sometimes they are when they return to Port Royal they will talk as much of their Fatigues as if they had been beating a Month to double the Cape of good Hope though indeed the Men are brisk enough and manage their sloops very well which also are generally very good Boats to sail on a Wind. I think they are the best small Trading-Boats in the King's Dominions Point Pedro on the South-side of the Island is another very bad Point to double if a Ship come from the West-end of the Island This Point runs out far into the Sea and is not only destitute of the Common Land-Winds But if there is any Current setting to Leeward here the Sloop-men meet it Therefore they are many times longer beating about it then about the two former Points of the South East and the North East and not without bestowing some Curses upon it Nay some Captains of Privateers when they have been beating about it have stood close in to the Point and fired their Guns to kill the old Daemon that they say inhabits there to disturb poor Seamen I have related these odd Passages to shew how ignorant Men are that cannot see the Reason of it And because I am not willing to leave my Reader in the dark I shall give a few Instances more on this subject The North side of Jucatan at the entrance into the Bay of Campeachy gives us another Instance of bad Land-Winds and commonly where the Land-Winds are scanty the Sea-Breezes are but indifferent neither This will partly appear by what I have observed of them on this Coast between Cape Catoach and Cape Condeseado at the entrance of the Bay of Campeachey which two places are about Eighty Leagues distant for there the Land trends East and West It is a streight Coast and lies all of it equally exposed to the Trade-VVind which is commonly there at E. N. E. To the W. of these Places the Sea and Land-VVinds do as duly succeed each other as on any other Coast but here they are each of them of a Bastard kind for the Sea-Breezes are at N. E. by E. which is no better than a Coast Trade-VVind and the Land-VVind is at E. S. E. or S. E. by E. whereas if the VVinds were as true there as on other Coasts the Sea-Breez would be at N. N. E. sometimes at N. and the Land-VVinds would be at S. S. E. and S. as they are indeed close under the shore which if they do at any time come off from they are very faint The Land on this Coast is low and even and the Land-VVinds ashore are pretty brisk The Capes on the Peruvian Coast in the South Seas will more fully make it appear that Head-Lands do seldom afford any Land-VVinds I shall only Instance in Cape Passao in Lat. 8 Minutes South Cape St. Laurence in Lat. 1 d. South and Cape Blanco in 3 d. South I have pass'd by them all several times and at different Seasons yet did never find any Land-winds there though between these Places there are very good Land-winds Therefore Ships that sail to the Southward against the Breez must beat it about by hard Labour
Beetles It was of a dusky colour towards black and about the hardness of mellow Cheese and of a very fragrant smell This that Mr. Hill shewed me being some of it which Mr. Barker gave him Besides those already mentioned all the places where I have heard that Ambergriese hath been found are Bermudas and the Bahama Islands in the West Indies and that part of the Coast of Africk with its adjacent Islands which reaches from Mozambique to the Red-Sea We went from this Island of Sall to St. Nicholas another of the Cape-Verd Islands lying West South West from Sall about 22 leagues We arrived there the next day after we left the other and Anchored on the S. E. side of the Island This is a pretty large Island it is one of the biggest of all the Cape-Verd and lyeth in a triangular-form The largest side which lyeth to the East is about 30 leagues long and the other two above 20 leagues each It is a mountainous barren Island and rocky all round towards the Sea yet in the heart of it there are Valleys where the Portuguese which inhabit here have Vineyards and Plantations and Wood for fewel Here are many Goats which are but poor in comparison with those in other places yet much better than those at Sall There are likewise many Asses The Governour of this Island came aboard us with 3 or 4 Gentlemen more in his Company who were all indifferently well cloathed and accoutred with Swords and Pistols but the rest that accompanied him to the Sea side which were about 20 or 30 men more were but in a ragged garb The Governour brought aboard some Wine made in the Island which tasted much like Madera Wine It was of a pale colour and lookt thick He told us the chief Town was in a Valley 14 mile from the Bay where we rode that he had there under him above one hundred families besides other Inhabitants that lived scattering in Valleys more remote They were all very swarthy the Governour was the cleaâ—est of them yet of a dark tawny complexion At this Island we scrubb'd the bottom of our Ship and here also we 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 ashore on the Bay and fill'd all our water and after 5 or 6 days stay we went from hence to Mayo another of the Cape-Verd Islands lying about 40 miles East and by South from the other arriving there the next day and anchoring on the N. W. side of the Island We sent our Boat on shore intending to have purchased some Provision as Beef or Goat with which this Island is better stock'd than the rest of the Islands But the inhabitants would not suffer our men to land for about a week before our arrival there came an English Ship the men of which came ashore pretending friendship and seized on the Governour with some others and carrying them aboard made them send ashore for Cattle to ransom their Liberties and yet after this set sail and carry'd them away and they had not heard of them since The English-man that did this as I was afterwards informed was one Captain Bond of Bristol Whether ever he brought back those men again I know not He himself and most of his men have since gone over to the Spaniards and t was he who had like to have burnt our Ship after this in the Bay of Panama as I shall have occasion to relate This Isle of Mayo is but small and invironed with sholes yet a place much frequented by shipping for its great plenty of Salt and though there is but bad landing yet many Ships lade here every year Here are plenty of Bulls Cows and Goats and at a certain season in the year as May June July and August a sort of small Sea-Tortoise come hither to lay their Eggs but these Turtle are not so sweet as those in the West Indies The Inhabitants plant Corn Yames Potatoes and some Plantations and breed a few Fowls living very poor yet much better than the Inhabitants of any other of these Islands St. Jago excepted which lieth 4 or 5 leagues to the Westward of Mayo and is the chief the most fruitful and best inhabited of all the Islands of Cape Verd yet mountainous and much barren Land in it On the East side of the Isle of St. Jago is a good Port which in peaceable times especially is seldom without Ships for this hath long been a place which Ships have been wont to touch at for Water and Refreshments as those outward bound to the East Indies English French and Dutch many of the Ships bound to the Coast of Guinea the Dutch to Surinam and their own Portuguese Fleet going for Braziel which is generally about the latter end of September but few Ships call in here in their return for Europe When any Ships are here the Country People bring down their Commodities to sell to the Seamen and Passengers viz. Bullocks Hogs Goats Fowls Eggs Plantains and Cocoa Nuts which they will give in Exchange for Shirts Drawers Handkerchiefs Hats Wastecoats Britches or in a manner for any sort of Cloath especially Linnen for Woollen is not much esteemed there They care not willingly to part with their Cattel of any sort but in exchange for Money or Linnen or some other valuable Commodity Travellers must have a care of these people for they are very thievish and if they see an opportunity will snatch any thing from you and run away with it We did not touch at this Island in this Voyage but I was there before this in the year 1670 when I saw a Fort here lying on the top of an Hill and commanding the Harbour The Governour of this Island is chief over all the rest of the Islands I have been told that there are two large Towns on this Island some small Villages and a great many Inhabitants and that they make a great deal of Wine such as is that of St. Nicholas I have not been on any other of the Cape Verd Islands nor near them but have seen most of them at a distance They seem to be mountainous and barren some of these before-mentioned being the most fruitful and most frequented by Strangers especially St. Jago and Mayo As to the rest of them Fogo and Brava are two small Islands lying to the Westward of St. Jago but of little note only Fogo is remarkable for its being a Vulcano It is all of it one large Mountain of a good heighth out of the top whereof issue Flames of Fire yet only discerned in the night and then it may be seen a great way at Sea Yet this Island is not without Inhabitants who live at the foot of the Mountain near the Sea Their subsistence is much the same as in the other Islands they having some Goats Fowls Plantains Coco-Nuts c. as I am informed Of the Plantains and Coco-Nuts I shall have occasion to speak when I come into the East Indies and shall defer the giving an account of them till then The
times sought after by the Spaniards who knew he was left on the Island yet they could never find him He was in the Woods hunting for Goats when Captain Watlin drew off his men and the Ship was under sail before he came back to shore He had with him his Gun and a Knife with a small Horn of Powder and a few Shot which being spent he contrived a way by notching his Knife to saw the barrel of his Gun into small pieces wherewith he made Harpoons Lances Hooks and a long Knife heating the pieces first in the fire which he struck with his Gunflint and a piece of the barrel of his Gun which he hardened having learnt to do that among the English The hot pieces of Iron he would hammer out and bend as he pleased with Stones and saw them with his jagged Knife or grind them to an edge by long labour and harden them to a good temper as there was occasion All this may seem strange to those that are not acquainted with the sagacity of the Indians but it is no more than these Moskito men are accustomed to in their own Country where they make their own Fishing and Striking Instruments without either Forge or Anvil tho they spend a great deal of time about them Other Wild Indians who have not the use of Iron which the Moskito men have from the English make Hatchets of a very hard stone with which they will cut down Trees the Cotton Tree especially which is a soft tender Wood to build their Houses or make Canoas and though in working their Canoas hollow they cannot dig them so neat and thin yet they will make them fit for their service This their digging or hatchet-work they help out by fire whether for the felling of the Trees or for the making the inside of their Canoa hollow These contrivances are used particularly by the Savage Indians of Blewfield s River described in the 3d Chapter whose Canoas and Stone-hatchets I have seen These Stone-hatchets are about 10 inches long 4 broad and 3 inches thick in the middle They are grownd away flat and sharp at both ends right in the midst and clear round it they make a notch so wide and deep that a man might place his Finger along it and taking a stick or withe about 4 foot long they bind it round the Hatchet-head in that notch and so twisting it hard use it as an handle or helve the head being held by it very fast Nor are other Wild Indians less ingenious Those of Patagonia particularly head their Arrows with Flint cut or grownd which I have seen and admired But to return to our Moskito man on the Isle of John Fernando With such Instruments as he made in that manner he got such Provision as the Island afforded either Goats or Fish He told us that at first he was forced to eat Seal which is very ordinary meat before he had made Hooks but afterwards he never kill'd any Seals but to make lines cutting their skins into thongs He had a little House or Hut half a mile from the Sea which was lined with Goats skin his Couch or Barbecu of sticks lying along about 2 foot distant from the ground was spread with the same and was all his Bedding He had no Cloaths left having worn out those he brought from Watlin's Ship but only a Skin about his Waste He saw our Ship the day before we came to an Anchor and did believe we were English and therefore kill'd 3 Goats in the morning before we came to an anchor and drest them with Cabbage to treat us when we came ashore He came then to the Sea side to congratulate our safe arrival And when we landed a Moskito Indian named Robin first leapt ashore and running to his brother Moskito man threw himself flat on his face at his feet who helping him up and embracing him fell flat with his face on the ground at Robins feet and was by him taken up also We stood with pleasure to behold the surprize and tenderness and solemnity of this interview which was exceedingly affectionate on both sides and when their ceremonies of civility were over we also that stood gazing at them drew near each of us embracing him we had found here who was overjoyed to see so many of his old friends come hither as he thought purposely to fetch him He was named Will as the other was Robin These were names given them by the English for they have no names among themselves and they take it as a great favour to be named by any of us and will complain for want of it if we do not appoint them some name when they are with us saying of themselves they are poor Men and have no name This Island is in lat 34 d. 15 m. and about 120 leagues from the Main It is about 12 leagues round full of high Hills and small pleasant Valleys which if manured would probably produce any thing proper for the Climate The sides of the Mountains are part Savanahs part Wood-land Savanahs are clear pieces of Land without Woods not because more barren than the Wood-land for they are frequently spots of as good Land as any and often are intermixt with Wood-land In the Bay of Campeachy are very large Savanahs which I have seen full of Cattle but about the River of Plate are the largest that ever I heard of 50 60 or 100 miles in length and Jamaica Cuba and Hispaniola have many Savanahs intermixt with Woods Places cleared of Wood by Art and Labour do not go by this name but those only which are found so in the uninhabited parts of America such as this Isle of John Fernandoes or which were originally clear in other parts The Grass in these Savanahs at John Fernando's is not a long flaggy Grass such as is usually in the Savanahs in the West-Indies but a sort of kindly Grass both thick and flourishing the biggest part of the year The Woods afford divers sorts of Trees some large and good Timber for Building but none fit for Masts The Cabbage Trees of this Isle are but small and low yet afford a good head and the Cabbage very sweet This Tree I shall describe in the Appendix in the Bay of Campeachy The Savanahs are stocked with Goats in great Herds but those that live on the East end of the Island are not so fat as those on the West end for though there is much more Grass and plenty of Water in every Valley nevertheless they thrive not so well here as on the West end where there is less food and yet there are found greater Flocks and those too fatter and sweeter That West end of the Island is all high Champion ground without any Vally and but one place to land there is neither Wood nor any fresh Water and the Grass short and dry Goats were first put on the Island by John Fernando who first discovered it in his Voyage from Lima to Baldivia
and discovered also another Island about the same bigness 20 leagues to the Westward of this From those Goats these were propogated and the Island hath taken its name from this its first Discoverer who when he returned to Lima desired a Patent for it designing to settle here and it was in his second Voyage hither that he set ashore 3 or 4 Goats which have since by their increase so well stocked the whole Island But he could never get a Patent for it therefore it lies still destitute of Inhabitants though doubtless capable of maintaining 4 or 500 Families by what may be produced off the Land only I speak much within compass for the Savanahs would at present feed 1000 head of Cattle besides Goats and the Land being cultivated would probably bear Corn or Wheat and good Pease Yams or Patatoes for the Land in their Valleys and sides of the Mountains is of a good black fruitful mould The Sea about it is likewise very productive of its Inhabitants Seals swarm as thick about this Island as if they had no other place in the World to live in for there is not a Bay nor Rock that one can get ashore on but is full of them Sea Lyon's are here in great Companys and Fish particularly Snappers and Rock-fish are so plentiful that 2 men in an hours time will take with Hook and Line as many as will serve 100 men The Seals are a sort of Creatures pretty well known yet it may not be amiss to describe them They are as big as Calves the head of them like a Dog therefore call'd by the Dutch the Sea-hounds Under each Shoulder grows a long thick Fin These serve them to swim with when in the Sea and are instead of Legs to them when on the Land for raising their Bodies up on end by the help of these Fins or Stumps and so having their Tail-parts drawn close under them they rebound as it were and throw their bodies forward drawing their hinder-parts after them and then again rising up and springing forward with their fore-parts alternately they lie tumbling thus up and down all the while they are moving on Land From their Shoulders to their Tails they grow tapering like Fish and have two small Fins on each side the Rump which is commonly covered with their Fins These Fins serve instead of a Tail in the Sea and on Land they sit on them when they give suck to their young Their hair is of divers colours as black grey dun sported looking very sleek and pleasant when they come first out of the Sea For these at John Fernando s have fine thick short Furr the like I have not taken notice of any where but in these Seas Here are always thousands I might say possibly millions of them either sitting on the Bays or going and coming in the Sea round the Island which is covered with them as they lye at the top of the Water playing and sunning themselves for a mile or two from the Shore When they come out of the Sea they bleat like Sheep for their young and tho they pass through hundreds of others young ones before they come to their own yet they will not suffer any of them to suck The young ones are like Puppies and lie much ashore but when beaten by any of us they as well as the old ones will make toward the Sea and swim very swift and nimble tho on shore they lye very sluggishly and will not go out of our ways unless we beat them but snap at us A blow on the Nose soon kills them Large Ships might here load themselves with Seals skins and Trane-oyl for they are extraordinary fat Seals are found as well in cold as hot Climates and in the cold places they love to get on Lumps of Ice where they will lie and sun themselves as here on the Land They are frequent in the Northern parts of Europe and America and in the Southern parts of Africa as about the Cape of Good Hope and at the Streights of Magellan and though I never saw any in the West Indies but in the Bay of Campeachy at certain Islands called the Alceranes and at others called the Desartes yet they are over all the American Coast of the South Seas from Terra del Fuego up to the Equinoctial Line but to the North of the Equinox again in these Seas I never saw any till as far as 21 North Lat. Nor did I ever see any in the East Indies In general they seem to resort where there is plenty of Fish for that is their food and Fish such as they feed on as Cods Groopers c. are most plentiful on rocky Coasts and such is mostly this Western Coast of the South America as I shall further relate The Sea Lion is a large creature about 12 or 14 foot long The biggest part of his body is as big as a Bull it is shaped like a Seal but 6 times as big The Head is like a Lion's Head it hath a broad Face with many long Hairs growing about its Lips like a Cat. It has a great goggle Eye the Teeth inches long about the bigness of a Mans Thumb In Capt. Sharp's time some of our Men made Dice with them They have no Hair on their Bodies like the Seal they are of a dun colour and are all extraordinary fat one of them being cut up and boil'd will yeild a Hogshed of Oil which is very sweet and wholesome to fry Meat withal The lean Flesh is black and of a course grain yet indifferent good food They will lye a week at a time ashore if not disturbed Where 3 or 4 or more of them come ashore together they huddle one on another like Swine and grunt like them making a hideous noise They eat Fish which I believe is their common food The Snapper is a Fish made much like a Roach but a great deal bigger It hath a large Head and Mouth and great Gills The Back is of a bright Red the Belly of a Silver-colour The Scales are as broad as a Shilling The Snapper is excellent meat They are in many places in the West-Indies and the South-Seas I have not seen them any where beside The Rock-fish is called by Sea-men a Grooper the Spaniards call it a Baccalao which is the name for Cod because it is much like it It is rounder than the Snapper of a dark brown colour and hath small Scales no bigger than a Silver-penny This Fish is good sweet meat and is found in great plenty on all the Coast of Peru and Chili There are only two Bays in the whole Island where Ships may Anchor these are both at the East end and in both of them is a Rivolet of good fresh Water Either of these Bays may be fortified with little charge to that degree that 50 men in each may be able to keep off 1000 and there is no coming into these Bays from the West end but with great
difficulty over the Mountains where if 3 men are placed they may keep down as many as come against them on any side This was partly experienced by 5 Englishmen that Captain Davis left here who defended themselves against a great body of Spaniards who landed in the Bays and came here to destroy them and though the second time one of their Consorts deserted and fled to the Spaniards yet the other 4 kept their ground and were afterward taken in from hence by Captain Strong of London We remained at John Fernando's 16 days our sick men were ashore all the time and one of Captain Eaton's Doctors for he had 4 in his Ship tending and feeding them with Goat and several Herbs whereof here is plenty growing in the Brooks and their Diseases were chiefly Scorbutick CHAP. V. The Author departs from John Fernando's Of the Pacifick Sea Of the Andes or high Mountains in Peru and Chili A Prize taken Isle of Lobos Penguins and other Birds there Three Prizes more The Islands Gallapago's The Dildo tree Burton wood Mammet trees Guanoes Land Tortoise their several kind Green Snakes Turtle-Doves Tortoise or Turtle-grass Sea Turtle their several kinds The Air and Weather at the Gallapago's Some of the Islands describ'd their Soil c. The Island Cocos describ'd Cape Blanco and the Bay of Caldera the Sevanahs there Captain Cook dies Of Nicoya and a Red Wood for Dying and other Commodities A narrow Escape of 12 Men. Lance-wood Volean Vejo a burning Mountain on the Coast of Ria Lexa A Tornado The Island and Harbor of Ria Lexa The Gulph of Amapalla and Point Casivina Isles of Mangera and Amapalla The Indian Inhabitants Hog-plumb tree Other Islands in the Gulph of Amapalla Captain Eaton and Captain Davis careen their Ships here and afterwards part THE 8th of April 1684. we sailed from the Isle of John Fernando with the Wind at S. E. We were now 2 Ships in Company Captain Cook 's whose Ship I was in and who here took the Sickness of which he dy'd a while after and Captain Eaton's Our passage lay now along the Pacifick Sea properly so called For though it be usual with our Map-makers to give that Name to this whole Ocean calling it Mare Australe Mar del Zar or Mare Pacificum yet in my opinion the Name of the Pacifick Sea ought not to be extended from South to North farther than from 30 to about 4 degrees South Latitude and from the American Shore Westward indefinitely with respect to my Observation who have been in these parts 250 Leagues or more from Land and still had the Sea very quiet from Winds For in all this Tract of Water of which I have spoken there are no dark rainy Clouds though often a thick Horizon so as to hinder an Observation of the Sun with the Quadrant and in the morning hazy weather frequently and thick Mists but scarce able to wet one Nor are there in this Sea any Winds but the Trade-wind no Tempests no Tornado's or Hurricans though North of the Equator they are met with as well in this Ocean as in the Atlantick yet the Sea it self at the new and full of the Moon runs with high large long Surges but such as never break out at Sea and so are safe enough unless that where they fell in and break upon the shore they make it bad landing In this Sea we made the best of our way toward the Line till in the lat of 24. S. where we fell in with the main Land of the South America All this course of the Land both of Chili and Peru is vastly high therefore we kept 12 or 14 leagues off from shore being unwilling to be seen by the Spaniards dwelling there The Land especially beyond this from 24 deg S. Lat. to 17 and from 14 to 10 is of a most prodigious heighth It lies generally in ridges parallel to the Shore and 3 or 4 ridges one within another each surpassing other in heighth and those that are farthest within Land are much higher than the others They always appear blue when seen at Sea sometimes they are obscured with Clouds but not so often as the high Lands in other parts of the world for here are seldom or never any Rains on these Hills any more than in the Sea near it neither are they subject to Fogs These are the highest Mountains that ever I saw far surpassing the Pike of Tenariffe or Santa Martha and I believe any Mountains in the world I have seen very high Land in the Lat. of 30 South but not so high as in the Latitudes before described In Sir John Narborough's Voyage also to Baldivia a City on this Coast mention is made of very high Land seen near Baldivia and the Spaniard with whom I have discoursed have told me that there is very high Land all the way between Coquimbo which lies in about 30 deg S. Lat. and Baldivia which is in 40 South so that by all likelihood these ridges of Mountains do run in a continued Chain from one end of Peru and Chili to the other all along this South Sea Coast called usually the Andes or Sierra Nuevada des Andes The excessive heighth of these Mountains may possibly be the reason that there are no Rivers of note that fall into these Seas Some small Rivers indeed there are but very few of them for in some places there is not one that comes out into the Sea in 150 or 200 Leagues and where they are thickest they are 30 40 or 50 Leagues asunder and too little and shallow to be navigable Besides some of these do not constantly run but are dry at certain seasons of the year as the River of Ylo runs flush with a quick Current at the latter end of January and so continues till June and then it decreaseth by degrees growing less and running slow till the latter end of September when it fails wholly and runs no more till January again This I have seen at both seasons in two former Voyages I made hither and have been informed by the Spaniards that other Rivers on this Coast are of the like nature being rather Torrents or Land-floods caused by their Rains at certain seasons far within Land than Perennial Streams We kept still along in sight of this Coast but at a good distance from it encountring with nothing of Note till in the lat of 9 deg 40 min. South on the 3d of May we descried a Sail to the Northward of us She was plying to Windward we chaced her and Captain Eaton being a head soon took her she came from Guiaquil about a month before laden with Timber and was bound to Lima. Three days before we took her she came from Santa whither she had gone for Water and where they had news of our being in these Seas by an Express from Baldivia for as we afterwards heard Captain Swan had been at Baldivia to seek a Trade there and he having met Captain
always go before the Wind being unable to ply against it and therefore are fit only for these Seas where the Wind is always in a manner the same not varying above a point or two all the way from Lima till such time as they come into the Bay of Panama and even there they meet with no great Sea but sometimes Northerly winds and then they lower their Sails and drive before it waiting a change All their care then is only to keep off from Shore for they are so made that they cannot sink at Sea These Rafts carry 60 or 70 Tuns of Goods and upwards their Cargo is chiefly Wine Oyl Flower Sugar Quito-cloath Soap Goat-skins drest c. The Float is manag'd usually by 3 or 4 Men who being unable to return with it against the Trade-wind when they come to Panama dispose of the goods and bottom together getting a passage back again for themselves in some Ship or Boat bound to the Port they came from and there they make a new Bark-log for their next Cargo The smaller sort of Bark-logs described before which lye flat on the Water and are used for Fishing or carrying Water to Ships or the like half a Tun or a Tun at a time are more governable than the other tho they have Masts and Sails too With these they go out at night by the help of the Land-wind which is seldom wanting on this Coast and return back in the day time with the Sea-wind This sort of Floats are used in many places both in the East and West Indies On the Coast of Coromandel in the East Indies they call them Catamarans These are but one Log or two sometimes of a sort of light Wood and are made without Sail or Rud der and so small that they carry but one Man whose legs and breech are always in the Water and he manages his Log with a Paddle appearing at a distance like a Man sitting on a Fish's back The Country about Payta is mountainous and barren like all the rest of the Kingdom of Peru. There is no Towns of consequence nearer it than Piura which is a large Town in the Country 40 miles distant It lieth by report of our Spanish Prisoners in a Valley which is watered with a small River that disembogues it self into the Bay of Chirapce in about 7d of North latitude This Bay is nearer to Piura than Payta yet all Goods imported by Sea for Piura are landed at Payta for the Bay of Chirapee is full of dangerous sholes and therefore not frequented by shipping The Road of Payta is one of the best on the Coast of Peru. It is sheltered from the South-west by a point of Land which makes a large Bay and smooth Water for Ships to ride in There is room enough for a good Fleet of Ships and good anchoring in any depth from 6 fathom water to 20 fathom Right against the Town the nearer the Town the shallower the water and the smoother the riding it is clean Sand all over the Bay Most Ships passing either to the North or the South touch at this place for water for tho here is none at the Town yet those Indian Fishermen of Colan will and do supply all Ships very reasonably and good water is much prized on all this Coast through the scarcity of it November the 3d at 6 a clock in the morning our Men landed about 4 miles to the South of the Town and took some Prisoners that were sent thither to watch for fear of us and these Prisoners said that the Governor of Piura came with 100 armed Men to Payta the night before purposely to oppose our landing there if we should attempt it Our Men marched directly to the Fort on the Hill and took it without the loss of one Man Hereupon the Governor of Piura with all his Men and the Inhabitants of the Town ran away as fast as they could Then our Men entered the Town and found it emptied both of Money and Goods there was not so much as a Meal of Victuals left for them The Prisoners told us a Ship had been here a little before and burnt a great Ship in the Road but did not land their Men and that here they put ashore all their Prisoners and Pilots We knew this must be Captain Eaton's Ship which had done this and by these circumstances we supposed he was gone to the East Indies it being always designed by him The Prisoners told us also that since Captain Eaton was here a small Bark had been off the Harbor and taken a pair of Bark-logs a fishing and made the Fishermen bring aboard 20 or 30 Jars of fresh water This we supposed was our Bark that was sent to the Lobos to seek Captain Eaton In the evening we came in with our Ships and anchored before the Town in 10 fathom water near a mile from the shore Here we staid till the sixth day in hopes to get a Ransom for the Town Our Captains demanded 300 Packs of Flower 3000 pound of Sugar 25 Jars of Wine and 1000 Jars of Water to be brought off to us but we got nothing of it Therefore Captain Swan ordered the Town to be fir'd which was presently done Then all our Men came aboard and Captain Swan ordered the Bark which Captain Harris commanded to be burnt because she did not sail well At night when the Land Wind came off we sailed from hence towards Lobos The 10th day in the evening we saw a Sail bearing N. W. by N. as far as we could well discern her on our Deck We immediately chased separating our selves the better to meet her in the night but we mist her Therefore the next morning we again trimb'd sharp and made the best of our way to the Lobos de la Mar. The 14th day we had sight of the Island Lobos de Terra it bore East from us we stood in towards it and betwixt 7 and 8 a clock in the night came to an anchor at the N. E. end of the Island in 14 fathom water This Island at Sea is of an indifferent height and appears like Lobos de la Mar. About a quarter of a mile from the North end there is a great hollow Rock and a good Channel between where there is 7 fathom water The 15th day we went ashore and found abundance of Penguins and Boobies and Seal in great quanties We sent aboard of all these to be drest for we had not tasted any flesh in a great while before therefore some of us did eat very heartily Captain Swan to encourage his Men to eat this course flesh would commend it for extraordinary good food comparing the Seal to roasting Pig the Boobies to Hens and the Penguins to Ducks this he did to train them to live contentedly on course Meat not knowing but we might be forced to make use of such food before we departed out of these Seas for it is generally seen among Privateers that nothing imboldens them
Paddles kept close under the Banks and so had not the strength of the stream against them as we had These Huts were close by the River on the East side of it just against the end of the Island We saw a great many other Houses a league from us on the other side of the River but the main stream into which we were now come seemed to be so swift that we were afraid to put over for fear we should not be able to get back again We found only a Hog some Fowls and Plantains in the Huts We killed the Hog and the Fowls which were drest presently Their Hogs they got as I suppose from the Spaniards by some accident or from some Neighbouring Indians who converse with the Spaniards for this that we took was of their European kind which the Spaniards have introduced them into America very plentifully especially into the Islands Jamaica Hispaniola and Cuba above all being very largely stored with them where they feed in the Woods in the day time and at night come in at the sounding of a Conch-shell and are put up in their Crauls or Pens and yet some turn wild which nevertheless are often decoyed in by the other which being all marked whenever they see an unmarked Hog in the Pen they know it 〈◊〉 a wild one and shoot him presently These Crauls I have not seen on the Continent where the Spaniards keep them tame at home Among the Wild Indians or in their Woods are no Hogs but Pecary and Warree a sort I have mentioned before After we had refreshed our selves we returned toward the mouth of the River It was the evening when we came from thence and we got to the Rivers mouth the next morning before day Our Ships when we left them were order'd to go to Gallo where they were to stay for us Gallo is a small uninhabited Island lying in between 2 and 3 Degrees North Lat. It lyeth in a wide Bay about 3 leagues from the mouth of the River Tomaco and 4 leagues and half from a small Indian Village called Tomaco The Island Gallo is of an indifferent heighth it is cloathed with very good Timber Trees and is therefore often visited with Barks from Guiaquil and other places for most of the Timber carry d from Guiaquil to Lima is first fetcht from Gallo There is a Spring of good Water at the N. E. end at that place there is a fine small Sandy Bay where there is good landing The road for Ships is against this Bay where there is good secure riding in 6 or 7 fathom water and here Ships may careen It is but shole water all about this Island yet there is a Channel to come in at where there is not less than 4 fathom water You must go in with the Tyde of Flood and come out with Ebb sounding all the way Tomaco is a large River that takes its Name from an Indian Village so called It is reported to spring from the rich Mountains about Quito It is thick inhabited with Indians and there are some Spaniards that live there who traffick with the Indians for Gold It is shoal at the mouth of the River yet Barks may enter The Village Tomaco is but small and is seated not far from the mouth of the River It is a place to entertain the Spanish Merchants that come to Gallo to load Timber or to traffick with the Indians for Gold At this place one Doleman with 7 or 8 Men more once of Capt. Sharp's Crew were kill'd in the year 1680. From the branch of the River St. Jago where we now lay to Tomaco is about 5 leagues the Land low and full of Creeks so that Canoas may pass within Land through those Creeks and from thence into Tomaco River The 28th day we left the River of St. Jago crossing some Creeks in our way with our Canoas and came to an Indian House where we took the Man and all his Family We staid here till the afternoon and then rowed toward Tomaco with the Man of this House for our Guide We arrived at Tomaco about 12 a clock at night Here we took all the Inhabitants of the Village and a Spanish Knight called Don Diego de Pinas This Knight came in a Ship from Lima to lade Timber The Ship was riding in a Creek about a mile off and there were only one Spaniard and 8 Indians aboard We went in a Canoa with 7 Men and took her she had no Goods but 12 or 13 Jars of good Wine which we took out and the next day let the Ship go Here an Indian Canoa came aboard with three Men in her These Men could not speak Spanish neither could they distinguish us from Spaniards the wild Indians usually thinking all white Men to be Spaniards We gave them 3 or 4 Callabashes of Wine which they freely drank They were streight-bodied and well limb'd Men of a mean heighth their Hair black long visag'd small Noses and Eyes and were thin fac'd ill look'd Men of a very dark copper color A little before night Captain Swan and all of us returned to Tomaco and left the Vessel to the Seamen The 31st day two of our Canoas who had been up the River of Tomaco returned back again to the Village They had rowed 7 or 8 leagues up and found but one Spanish House which they were told did belong to a Lady who lived at Lima she had Servants here that traded with the Indians for Gold but they seeing our Men coming ran away yet our Men found there several Ounces of Gold in Callabashes The first day of January 1685. we went from Tomaco towards Gallo We carried the Knight with us and two small Canoas which we took there and while we were rowing over one of our Canoas took a Pacquet Boat that was sent from Panama to Lima. The Spaniards threw the Pacquet of Letters over board with a Line and a Buoy to it but our Men seeing it took it up and brought the Letters and all the Prisoners aboard our Ships that were then at an anchor at Gallo Here we staid till the 6th day reading the Letters by which we understood that the Armada from Old Spain was come to Portabel and that the President of Panama had sent this Pacquet on purpose to hasten the Plate Fleet thither from Lima. We were very joyful of this News and therefore sent away the Pacquet Boat with all her Letters and we altered our former resolutions of going to Lavelia We now concluded to careen our Ships as speedily as we could that we might be ready to intercept this Fleet. The properest place that we could think on for doing it was among the Kings Islands or Pearl Keys because they are near Panama and all Ships bound to Panama from the Coast of Lima pass by them so that being there we could not possibly miss the Fleet. According to these resolutions we sailed the next morning in order to execute what we designed
We were 2 Ships and 3 Barks in Company viz. Captain Davis Captain Swan a Fireship and 2 small Barks as Tenders one on Captain Davis his Ship the other on Captain Swan's We weighed before day and got out all but Captain Swan's Tender which never budged for the men were all asleep when we went out and the Tide of flood coming on before they waked we were forced to stay for them till the next day The 8th day in the morning we descried a sail to the West of us the Wind was at South and we chased her and before noon took her She was a Ship of about 90 Tun laden with Flower she came from Truxillio and was bound to Panama This Ship came very opportunely to us for Flower began to grow scarce and Captain Davis his men grudg'd at what was given to Captain Swan who as I said before had none but what he had from Captain Davis We jogged on after this with a gentle gale towards Gorgonia an Island lying about 25 leagues from the Island Gallo The 9th day we anchored at Gorgonia on the West side of the Island in 38 fathom clean ground not 2 Cables length from the shore Gorgonia is an uninhabited Island in lat about 3 degrees North It is a pretty high Island and very remarkable by reason of 2 saddles or risings and fallings on the top It is about 2 leagues long and a league broad and it is 4 leagues from the Main At the West-end is another small Island The Land against the Anchoring place is low there is a small sandy Bay and good landing The Soil or Mold of it is black and deep in the low ground but on the side of the high Land it is a kind of a red clay This Island is very well cloathed with large Trees of several sorts that are flourishing and green all the year It 's very well watered with small Brooks that issue from the high Land Here are a great many little black Monkeys some Indian Conies and a few Snakes which are all the Land Animals that I know there It is reported of this Island that it rains on every day in the year more or less but that I can disprove however it is a very wet Coast and it rains abundantly here all the year long There are but few fair days for there is little difference in the seasons of the year between the wet and dry only in that season which should be the dry time the rains are less frequent and more moderate than in the wet season for then it pours as out of a Sieve It is deep water and no anchoring any where about this Island only at that West side The Tyde riseth and falleth 7 or 8 foot up and down Here are a great many Perewincles and Muscles to be had at low water Then the Monkeys come down by the Sea side and catch them digging them out of their Shells with their Claws Here are Pearl-Oysters in great plenty They grow to the loose Rocks in 4 5 or 6 fathom water by beards or little small roots as a Muscle These Oysters are commonly flatter and thinner than other Oysters otherwise much alike in shape The fish is not sweet nor very wholsome it is as slimy as a Shell-Snail they taste very copperish if eaten raw and are best boyl'd The Indians who gather them for the Spaniards hang the meat of them on strings like Jews-ears and dry them before they eat them The Pearl is found at the head of the Oyster lying between the meat and the shell Some will have 20 or 30 small Seed-Pearl some none at all and some will have 1 or 2 pretty large ones The inside of the shell is more glorious than the Pearl itfelf I did never see any in the South Seas but here It is reported there are some at the South end of Callifornia In the West Indies the Rancho Rejs or Rancheria spoken of in Chap. 3. is the place where they are found most plentifully 'T is said there are some at the Island Margarita near St. Augustin a Town in the Gulf of Florida c. In the East Indies The Island Ainam near the South end of China is said to have plenty of these Oysters more productive of large round Pearl than those in other other places They are found also in other parts of the East Indies on the Persian Coast. At this Island Gorgona we rummaged our Prize and found a few Boxes of Marmalade and 3 or 4 Jars of Brandy which were equally shared between Captain Davis Captain Swan and their Men. Here we fill'd all our Water and Captain Swan furnished himself with Flower afterward we turned ashore a great many Prisoners but kept the chiefest to put them ashore in a better place The 13th day we sailed from hence toward the Kings Islands We were now 6 Sail 2 Men of War 2 Tenders a Fireship and the Prize We had but little Wind but what we had was the common Trade at South The Land we sailed by on the Main is very low towards the Sea side but in the Country there are very high Mountains The 16th day we passed by Cape Corrientes This Cape is in lat 5 d. 10 m. it is high bluff Land with 3 or 4 small Hillocks on the top It appears at a distance like an Island Here we found a strong current running to the North but whether it be always so I know not The day after we passed by the Cape we saw a small white Island which we chased supposing it had been a Sail till coming near we found our error The 21st day we saw Point Garrachina This Point is in lat 7 d. 20 m. North it is pretty high Land rocky and destitute of Trees yet within Land it is Woody It is fenced with Rocks against the Sea Within the Point by the Sea at low Water you may find store of Oysters and Muscles The Kings Islands or Pearl Keys are about 12 leagues distant from this Point Between Point Garqchina and them there is a small low flat barren Island called Gallera at which Captain Harris was sharing with his Men the Gold he took in his pillaging Sancta Maria which I spake of a little before when on a sudden 5 Spanish Barks fitted out on purpose at Panama came upon him but he fought them so stoutly with one small Bark he had and some few Canoas boarding their Admiral particularly that they were all glad to leave him By this Island we anchored and sent our Boats to the Kings Islands for a a good careening place The Kings Islands are a great many low woody Islands lying N. W. by N. and S. E. by S. They are about 7 leagues from the Main and 14 leagues in length and from Panama about 12 leagues Why they are called the Kings Islands I know not they are sometimes and mostly in Maps called the Pearl Islands I cannot imagin wherefore they are called so for I did
here being as I have said neither Boats Barks nor Ships that I could ever see unless only what come hither from other parts and some Boats near the S. E. end of California as I guess by the intercourse between that and the Main for Pearl-fishing The Ships that Trade hither are only 3 two that constantly go once a year between this and Manila in Luconia one of the Phillipine Islands and one Ship more every year to and from Lima. This from Lima commonly arrives a little before Christmas she brings them Quick-silver Cacao and pieces of Eight Here she stays till the Manila Ship arrives and then takes in a Cargo of Spices Silks Callicoes and Muzlins and other East India Commodities for the use of Peru and then returns to Lima. This is but a small Vessel of 20 Guns but the 2 Manila Ships are each said to be above 1000 Tun. These make their Voyages alternately so that one or other of them is always at the Manillas When either of them sets out from Acapulco it is at the latter end of March or the beginning of April she alwas touches to refresh at Guam one of the Ladrone Islands in about 60 days space after she sets out There she stays but 2 or 3 days and then prosecutes her Voyage to Manila where she commonly arrives some time in June By that time the other is ready to sail from thence laden with East India Commodities She stretcheth away to the North as far as 36 or sometimes into 40 degrees of North lat before she gets a wind to stand over to the American shore She falls in first with the Coast of California and then Coasts along the shore to the South again and never misses of a wind to bring her away from thence quite to Acapulco When she gets the length of Cape St. Lucas which is the Southermost point of California she stretcheth over to Cape Cortientes which is in about the 20th degree of North lat from thence she Coasts along till she comes to Sallagua and there she sets ashore Passengers that are bound to the City of Mexico From thence she makes her best way coasting still along shore till she arrives at Acapulco which is commonly about Christmas never more than 8 or 10 days before or after Upon the return of this Ship to the Manila the other which stayeth there till her arrival takes her turn back to Acapulco Sir John Narborough therefore was imposed on by the Spaniards who told him that there were 6 sail or more that used this Trade The Port of Acapulco is very commodious for the reception of Ships and so large that some hundreds may safely ride there without damnifying each other There is a small low Island crossing the mouth of the Harbour it is about a mile and a half long and half a mile broad stretching East and West It leaves a good wide deep Channel at each end where Ships may safely go in or come out taking the advantage of the Winds they must enter with the Sea-wind and go out with the Land-wind for these Winds seldom or never fail to succeed each other alternately in their proper seasons of the day or night The Westermost Channel is the narrowest but so deep there is no anchoring and the Manila Ships pass in that way but the Ships from Lima enters on the S. W. Channel This Harbour runs in North about 3 miles then growing very narrow it turns short about to the West and runs about a mile farther where it ends The Town stands on the N. W. side at the mouth of this narrow passage close by the Sea and at the end of the Town there is a Platform with a great many Guns Opposite to the Town on the East side stands a high strong Castle said to have 40 Guns of a very great bore Ships commonly ride near the bottom of the Harbour under the Command both of the Castle and the Platform Captain Townly who as I said before with 140 men left our Ships on a design to fetch the Lima Ship out of the Harbour had not rowed above 3 or 4 leagues before the Voyage was like to end with all their Lives for on a sudden they were encountered with a violent Tornado from the shore which had like to have foundered all the Canoas but they escaped that danger and the second night got safe into Port Marquis Port Marquis is a very good Harbour a league to the East of Acapulco Harbour Here they staid all the next day to dry themselves their Cloaths their Arms and Ammunition and the next night they rowed softly into Acapulco Harbour and because they would not be heard they hal'd in their Oars and paddled as softly as if they had been seeking Manatee They paddled close to the Castle then struck over to the Town and found the Ship riding between the Brestwork and the Fort within about 100 yards of each When they had well viewed her and considered the danger of the design they thought it not possible to accomplish it therefore they paddled softly back again till they were out of command of the Forts and then they went to land and fell in among a company of Spanish Soldiers for the Spaniards having seen them the day before had set Guards along the Coast who immediately fired at them but did them no damage only made them retire farther from the shore They lay afterwards at the mouth of the Harbour till it was day to take a view of the Town and Castle and then returned aboard again being tired hungry and sorry for their disappointment The 11th day we made sail again further on to the Westward with the Land-wind which is commonly at N. E. but the Sea Winds are at S. W. We passed by a long sandy Bay of above 20 leagues All the way along it the Sea falls with such force on the shore that it is impossible to come near it with Boat or Canoa yet it is good clean ground and good anchoring a mile or two from the shore The Land by the Sea is low and indifferent fertile producing many sorts of Trees especially the spreading Palm which grows in spots from one end of the Bay to the other The Palm-tree is as big as an ordinary Ash growing about 20 or 30 foot high The body is clear from boughs or branches till just at the head there it spreads forth many large green branches not much unlike the Cabbage-tree before described These branches also grow in many places as in Jamaica Darien the Bay of Campeachy c. from a stump not above a foot or two high which is not the remains of a Tree cut down for none of these sort of Trees will ever grow again when they have once lost their head but these are a sort of Dwarf-palm and the branches which grow from the stump are not so large as those that grow on the great Tree These smaller branches are used both in the East
largest Apple-trees It hath a spreading head full of branches and dark leaves The Fruit grows on the boughs like Apples it is as big as a Penny Loaf when VVheat is at 5 Shillings the Bushel It is of a round shape and hath a thick tough â—…ind VVhen the Fruit is ripe it is yellow and soft and the taste is sweet and pleasant The Natives of this Island use it for Bread they gather it when full grown while it is green and hard then they bake it in an Oven which scorcheth the rind and makes it black but they scrape off the outside black crust and there remains a tender thin crust and the inside is soft tender and white like the crumb of a Penny Loaf There is neither seed nor stone in the inside but all is of a pure substance like Bread it must be eaten new for if it is kept above 24 hours it becomes dry and eats harsh and choaky but 't is very pleasant before it is too stale This Fruit lasts in season 8 months in the year during which time the Natives eat no other sort of food of Bread kind I did never see of this Fruit any where but here The Natives told us that there is plenty of this Fruit growing on the rest of the Ladrone Islands and I did never hear of any of it any where else They have here some Rice also but the Island being of a dry soil and therefore not very proper for it they do not sow very much Fish is scarce about this Island yet on the Shole that our Bark came over there was great plenty and the Natives commonly go thither to fish The natives of this Island are strong bodied large limb'd and well shap'd They are Copper-coloured like other Indians their hair is black and long their Eyes meanly proportioned they have pretty high Noses their Lips are pretty full and their Teeth indifferent white They are long visaged and stern of countenance yet we found them to be affable and courteous They are many of them troubled with a kind of a Leprosie This distemper is very common at Mindanao therefore I shall speak more of it in my next Chapter They of Guam are otherwise very healthy especially in the dry season but in the wet season which comes in in June and holds till October the air is more thick and unwholsome which occasions Fevers but the rains are not violent nor lasting For the Island lyes so far Westerly from the Philippine Islands or any other Land that the Westerly winds do seldom blow so far and when they do they do not last long but the Easterly Winds do consiantly blow here which are dry and healthy and this Island is found to be very healthful as we were informed while we lay by it The natives are very ingenious beyond any people in making Boats or Proes as they are called in the East Indies and therein they take great delight These are built sharp at both ends the bottom is of one piece made like the bottom of a little Canoa very neatly dug and left of a good substance This bottom part is instead of a Keel It is about 26 or 28 foot long the under part of this Keel is made round but inclining to a wedge and smooth and the upper part is almost flat having a very gentle hollow and is about a foot broad From hence both sides of the Boat are carried up to about 5 foot high with narrow plank not above 4 or 5 inches broad and each end of the Boat turns up round very prettily But what is very singular one side of the Boat is made perpendicular like a Wall while the other side is rounding made as other Vessels are with a pretty full belly Just in the middle it is about 4 or 5 foot broad aloft or more according to the length of the Boat The Mast stands exactly in the middle with a long Yard that peeksup and down like a Mizen-yard One end of it reacheth down to the end or head of the Boat where it is placed in a notch that is made there purposely to receive it and keep it fast The other end hangs over the stern To this yard the sail is fastened At the foot of the sail there is another small yard to keep the sail out square and to roll up the sail on when it blows hard for it serves instead of a reef to take up the sail to what degree they please according to the strength of the Wind. Along the belly-side of the Boat parallel with it at about 6 or 7 foot distance lies another small Boat or Canoa being a Log of very light Wood almost as long as the great Boat but not so wide being not above a foot and an half wide at the upper part and very sharp like a wedge at each end And there are two Bamboas of about 8 or 10 foot long and as big as ones Leg placed over the great Boats side one near each end of it and reaching about 6 or 7 foot from the side of the Boat by the help of which the little Boat is made firm and contiguous to the other These are generally called by the Dutch and by the English from them Outlagers The use of them is to keep the great Boat upright from over-setting because the Wind here being in a manner constantly East or if it were at West it would be the same thing and the Range of these Islands where their business lies to and fro being mostly North and South they turn the flat side of the Boat against the Wind upon which they sail and the belly-side consequently with its little Boat is upon the Lee and the Vessel having a Head at each end so as to sail with either of them foremost indifferently they need not tack or go about as all our Vessels do but each end of the Boat serves either for head or stern as they please When they ply to windward and are minded to go about he that steers bears away a little from the Wind by which means the stern comes to the Wind which is now become the head only by shifting the end of the yard This Boat is steered with a broad Paddle instead of a Rudder I have been the more particular in describing these Boats because I do believe they sail the best of any Boats in the world I did here for my own satisfaction try the swiftness of one of them sailing by our Log we had 12 knots on our reel and she run it all out before the half minute glass was half out which if it had been no more is after the rate of 12 mile an hour but I do believe she would have run 24 mile an hour It was very pleasant to see the little Boat running along so swift by the others side The Native Indians are not less dexterous in managing than in building these Boats By report they will go from hence to another of the Ladrone
us to be jogging from hence unless we were resolved to return back to America again Captain Swan returned him thanks for his kindness and advice and took his leave and the same day sent the Frier ashore that was seized on at our first arrival and gave him a large Brass Clock an Astralobe and a large Telescope for which Present the Frier sent us aboard 6 Hogs and a roasting Pig 3 or 4 Bushels of Potatoes and 50 l. of Manila Tobacco Then we prepared to be gone being pretty well furnished with Provision to carry us to Mindanao where we designed next to touch We took aboard us as many Coco-nuts as we could well stow and we had a good stock of Rice and about 50 Hogs in Salt CHAP. XI They resolve to go to Mindanao Their departure from Guam Of the Philippine Islands The Isle Luconia and its chief Town and Port Manilo Manila or Manilbo Of the rich Trade we might establish with these Islands St. Johns Island They arrive at Mindanao The Island described It s Fertility The Libby Trees and the Sago made of them The Plantain Tree Fruit Liquor and Cloth A smaller Plantain at Mindanao The Bonano Of the Clove-bark Cloves and Nutmegs and the Methods taken by the Dutch to monopolize the Spices The Betel-nut and Arek tree The Durian and the Jaca tree and Fruit. The Beasts of Mindanao Centapes or Forty Legs a venemous Insect and others Their Fowls Fish c. The Temperature of the Climate with the Course of the Winds Tornadoes Rain and Temper of the Air throughout the year WHile we lay at Guam we took up a Resolution of going to Mindanao one of the Philippine Islands being told by the Frier and others that it was exceedingly well stored with Provisions that the Natives were Mahometans and that they had formerly a Commerce with the Spaniards but that now they were at wars with them This Island was therefore thought to be a convenient place for us to go to for besides that it was in our way to the East Indies which we had resolved to visit and that the Westerly Monsoon was at hand which would oblige us to shelter some where in a short time and that we could not expect good Harbours in a better place than in so large an Island as Mindanao besides all this I say the Inhabitants of Mindanao being then as we were told tho falsly at Wars with the Spaniards our Men who it should seem were very squeamish of plundering without Licence derived hopes from thence of getting a Commission there from the Prince of the Island to plunder the Spanish Ships about Manila and so to make Mindanao their common Rendezvouz And if Captain Swan was minded to go to an English Port yet his Men who thought he intended to leave them hoped to get Vessels and Pilots at Mindanao fit for their turn to cruise on the Coast of Manila As for Captain Swan he was willing enough to go thither as best suiting his own design and therefore this Voyage was concluded on by general consent Accordingly June 22d 1686. we left Guam bound for Mindanoa We had fair weather and a pretty smart gale of Wind at East for 3 or 4 days and then it shifted to the S. W. being rainy but it soon came about again to the East and blew a gentle gale yet it often shuffled about to the S. E. For though in the East Indies the Winds shift in April yet we found this to be the shifting season for the Winds here the other shifting season being in October sooner or later all over India As to our course from Guam to the Philippine Islands we found it as I intimated before agreeable enough with the account of our common Draughts The 21st day of July we arrived at the Island St. John which is one of the Philippine Islands The Philippines are a great company of large Islands taking up about 13 deg of Lat. in length reaching near upon from 5 d. of North Lat. to the 19th degree and in breadth about 6 deg of Longitude They derive this Name from Philip the 2d King of Spain and even now they do most of them belong to that Crown The chiefest Island in this range is Luconia which lies on the North of them all At this Island Magellan died in the Voyage that he was making round the VVorld For after he had past those Streights between the South end of America and Terra del Fuego which now bear his Name and had ranged down in the South Seas on the back of America from thence stretching over to the East Indies he fell in with the Ladrone Islands and from thence steering East still he fell in with these Philippine Islands and anchored at Luconia where he warr'd with the native Indians to bring them in obedience to his master the King of Spain and was by them kill'd with a poysoned Arrow It is now wholly under the Spaniards who have several Towns there The chief is Manilo which is a large Sea-port Town near the S. E. end opposite to the Island Mindora It is a place of great strength and trade The two great Acapulco Ships before-mentioned fetching from hence all sorts of East-India commodities which are brought hither by foreigners especially by the Chinese and the Portuguese Sometimes the English Merchants of Fort St. George send their Ships hither as it were by stealth under the charge of Portugueze Pilots and Mariners for as yet we cannot get the Spaniards there to a commerce with us or the Dutch although they have but few Ships of their own This seems to arise from a jealousie or fear of discovering the riches of these Islands for most if not all the Philippine Islands are rich in Gold and the Spaniards have no place of much strength in all these Islands that I could ever hear of besides Manilo it self Yet they have Villages and Towns on several of the Islands and Padres or Priests to instruct the native Indians from whom they get their Gold The Spanish Inhabitants of the smaller Islands especially would willingly trade with us if the Government was not so severe against it for they have no goods but what are brought from Manilo at an extraordinary dear rate I am of the opinion that if any of our Nations would seek a trade with them they would not lose their labour for the Spaniards can and will Smuggle as our Sea-men call Trading by stealth as well as any Nation that I know and our Jamaicans are to their profit sensible enough of it And I have been informed that Captain Goodlud of London in a Voyage which he made from Mindanao to China touch'd at some of these Islands and was civilly treated by the Spaniards who bought some of his Commodities giving him a very good price for the same There are about 12 or 14 more large Islands lying to the Southwards of Luconia most of which as I said before are inhabited by the Spaniards
of the biggest Island that between both there is formed a very commodious Harbour The entrance of this Harbour is on the North side where the two Islands are near a mile asunder There are 3 or 4 small Keys and a good deep Channel between them and the biggest Island Towards the South end of the Harbour the two Islands do in a manner close up leaving only a small passage for Boats and Canoas There are no more Islands on the North side but 5 or 6 on the South side of the great Island See the Table The Mold of these Islands for the biggest part is blackish and pretty deep only the Hills are somewhat stony The Eastern part of the biggest Island is sandy yet all cloathed with Trees of divers sorts The Trees do not grow so thick as I have seen them in some places but they are generally large and tall and fit for any uses There is one sort of Tree much larger than any other on this Island and which I have not seen any where else It is about 3 or 4 foot diameter in the Body from whence is drawn a sort of clammy juice which being boiled a little becomes perfect Tar and if you boil it much it will become hard as Pitch It may be put to either use we used it both ways and found it to be very serviceable The way that they get this juice is by cutting a great gap horizontally in the body of the Tree half through and about a foot from the ground and then cutting the upper part of the body aslope inwardly downward till in the middle of the Tree it meet with the traverse cutting or plain In this plain horizontal semicircular stump they make a hallow like a Bason that may contain a quart or two Into this hole the juice which drains from the wounded upper part of the Tree falls from whence you must empty it every day It will run thus for some months and then dry away and the Tree will recover again The Fruit-trees that nature hath bestowed on these Isles are Mangoes and Trees bearing a sort of Grape and other Trees bearing a kind of wild or bastard Nutmegs These all grow wild in the Woods and in very great plenty The Mangoes here grow on Trees as big as Apple-trees Those at Fort St. George are not so large The fruit of these is as big as a small Peach but long and smaller towards the top It is of a yellowish colour when ripe it is very juicy and of a pleasant smell and delicate taste When the Mango is young they cut them in two pieces and pickle them with Salt and Vineger in which they put some Cloves of Garlick This is an excellent sawce and much esteemed it is called Mango Achar Achar I presume signifies Sawce They make in the East Indies especially at Siam and Pegu several sorts of Achar as of the young tops of Bamboes c. Bambo Achar and Mango Achar are most used The Mangoes were ripe when we were there as were also the rest of these Fruits and they have then so delicate a fragrancy that we could smell them out in the thick Woods if we had but the wind of them while we were a good way from them and could not see them and we generally found them out this way Mangoes are common in many places of the East Indies but I did never know any grow wild only at this place These though not so big as those I have seen at Achin at Maderas and Fort St. George are yet every whit as pleasant as the best sort of their Garden Mangoes The Grape-tree grows with a strait body of a Diameter about a foot or more and hath but few Limbs or Boughs The Fruit grows in Clusters all about the body of the Tree like the Jack Durian and Cacao Fruits There are of them both red and white They are much like such Grapes as grow on our Vines both in shape and colour and they are of a very pleasant Winy taste I never saw these but on the two biggest of these Islands the rest had no Tar-trees Mango's Grape-trees nor Wild Nutmegs The Wild Nutmeg-tree is as big as a Walnut-tree but it does not spread so much The Boughs are gross and the Fruit grows among the Boughs as the Wallnut and other Fruits This Nutmeg is much smaller than the true Nutmeg and longer also It is inclosed with a thin Shell and a sort of Mace encircling the Nut within the Shell This bastard Nutmeg is so much like the true Nutmeg in shape that at our first arrival here we thought it to be the true one but it has no manner of smell nor taste The Animals of these Islands are some Hogs Lizards and Guanoes and some of those Creatures mentioned in Chap. XI which are like but much bigger than the Guano Here are many sorts of Birds as Parrots Parakites Doves and Pigeons Here are also a sort of wild Cocks and Hens They are much like our tame Fowl of that kind but a great deal less for they are about the bigness of a Crow The Cocks do crow like ours but much more small and shrill and by their crowing we do first find them out in the Woods where we shoot them Their flesh is very white and sweet There are a great many Limpits and Muscles and plenty of green Turtle And upon this mention of Turtle again I think it not amiss to add some reasons to strengthen the opinion that I have given concerning these Creatures removing from place to place I have said in Chapter 5th that they leave their common feeding places and go to places a great way from thence to lay as particularly to the Island Ascention Now I have discoursed with some since that subject was printed who are of opinion that when the laying time is over they never go from thence but lye some where in the Sea about the Island which I think is very improbable for there can be no food for them there as I could soon make appear as particularly from hence that the Sea about the Isle of Ascention is so deep as to admit of no anchoring but at one place where there is no sign of Grass and we never bring up with our sounding Lead any Grass or Weeds out of very deep Seas but Sand or the like only But if this be granted that there is food for them yet I have a great deal of reason to believe that the Turtle go from hence for after the laying time you shall never see them and where ever Turtle are you will see them rise and hold their Head above water to breath once in 7 or 8 minutes or at longest in 10 or 12. And if any man does but consider how Fish take their certain seasons of the year to go from one Sea to another this would not seem strange even Fowls also having their seasons to remove from once place to another These Islands are pretty well watered
Besides this present from the Governour there was a Captain of a Jonk sent two Jars of Arack and abundance of Pine-apples and Water-melons Captain Read sent ashore as a Present to the Governour a curious Spanish Silver-hilted Rapier an English Carbine and a Gold Chain and when the Officer went ashore three Guns were fired In the afternoon the Governour sent off the same Officer again to complement the Captain for his civility and promised to retaliate his kindness before we departed but we had such blustring weather afterward that no Boat could come aboard We stayed here till the 29th day and then sailed from hence with the wind at S. W. and pretty fair weather We now directed our course for some Islands we had chosen to go to that lye between Formosa and Luconia They are laid down in our plots without any name only with a figure of 5 denoting the number of them It was supposed by us that these Islands had no Inhabitants because they had not any name by our Hydographers Therefore we thought to lye there secure and be pretty near the Island Luconia which we did still intend to visit In going to them we sailed by the South West end of Formosa leaving it on our larboard side This is a large Island the South end is in lat 21 d. 20 m. and the North end in 25 d. 10 m. North lat the longitude of this Isle is laid down from 142 d. 5 m. to 143 d. 16 m. reckoning East from the pike of Tenariffe so that 't is but narrow and the Tropick of Cancer crosses it It is a high and woody Island and was formerly well inhabited by the Chinese and was then frequently visited by English Merchants there being a very good Harbour to secure their Ships But since the Tartars have conquered China they have spoiled the Harbour as I have been informed to hinder the Chinese that were then in Rebellion from fortifying themselves there and ordered the foreign Merchants to come and trade on the Main The 6th day of August we arrived at the five Islands that we were bound to and anchored on the East side of the Northermost Island in 15 fathom a Cables length from the shore Here contrary to our expectation we found abundance of Inhabitants in sight for there were 3 large Towns all within a league of the Sea and another larger Town than any of the three on the back side of a small hill close by also as we found afterwards These Islands lye in lat 20 d. 20 m. North lat by my observation for I took it there and I find their Longitude according to our Drafts to be 141 d. 50 m. These Islands having no particular Names in the Drafts some or other of us made use of the Seamens priviledge to give them what names we pleased Three of the Islands were pretty large the Westermost is the biggest This the Dutch men who were among us called the Prince of Orange's Island in honour of his present Majesty It is about 7 or 8 leagues long and about 2 leagues wide and it lies almost N. and S. The other two great Islands are about 4 or 5 leagues to the Eastward of this The Northermost of them where we first anchored I called the D. of Grafton's Isle as soon as we landed on it having married my Wife out of his Dutchess's Family and leaving her at Arlington house at my going aboard This Isle is about 4 leagues long and one league and a half wide stretching North and South The other great Isle our Seamen called the Duke of Monmouth's Island This is about a league to the Southward of Grafton Isle It is about 3 leagues long and a league wide lying as the other Between Monmouth and the South end of Orange Island there are two small Islands of a roundish form lying East and West The Eastermost Island of the two our men unanimously called Bashee Island from a Liquor which we drank there plentifully every day after we came to an anchor at it The other which is the smallest of all we called Goat Island from the great number of Goats there and to the Northward of them all are two high Rocks Orange Island which is the biggest of them all is not inhabited It is high Land flat and even on the top with steep cliffs against the Sea for which reason we could not go ashore there as we did on all the rest I have made it my general observation that where the Land is fenced with steep Rocks and Cliffs against the Sea there the Sea is very deep and seldom affords anchor ground and on the other side where the Land falls away with a declivity into the Sea altho the Land be exrraordinary high within yet there are commonly good soundings and consequently anchoring and as the visible declivity of the Land appears near or at the edge of the Water whether pretty steep or more sloping so we commonly find our anchor ground to be more or less deep or steep therefore we came nearer the shore or anchor farther off as we see convenient for there is no Coast in the World that I know or have heard of where the Land is of a continual heighth without some small Valleys or declivities which lye intermixt with the high Land They are these subsidings of Valleys or low Lands that make dents in the shore and Creeks small Bays and Harbours or little Coves c. which afford good anchoring the surface of the Earth being there lodged deep under Water Thus we find many good Harbours on such Coasts where the Land bounds the Sea with steep Clifs by reason of the Declivities or subsiding of the Land between these Cliffs But where the Declension from the Hills or Cliffs is not within Land between Hill and Hill but as on the Coast of Chili and Peru the Declivity is toward the Main Sea or into it the Coast being perpendicular or very steep from the neighbouring Hills as in those Countries from the Andes that run along the shore there is a deep Sea and few or no Harbours or Creeks All that Coast is too steep for anchoring and hath the fewest Roads fit for Ships of any Coast I know The Coasts of Gallicia Portugal Norway and Newfoundland c. are Coasts like the Peruvian and the high Islands of the Archipelago but yet not so scanty of good Harbours for where there are short Ridges of Land there are good Bays at the extremities of those Ridges where they plunge into the Sea as on the Coast of Caraccos c. The Island of John Fernando and the Island St. Helena c. are such high Land with deep shore and in general the plunging of any Land under Water seems to be in proportion to the rising of its continuous part above Water more or less steep and it must be a bottom almost level or very gently declining that affords good anchoring Ships being soon driven from their Moorings on
men that was left ashore I shall speak more of him hereafter He and the rest of them told me that after the Ship was out of sight the Natives began to be more kind to them than they had been before and perswaded them to cut their Hair short as theirs was offering to each of them if they would do it a young Woman to Wife and a small Hatchet and other Iron Utenfils fit for a Planter in Dowry and withal shewed them a piece of Land for them to manage They were courted thus by several of the Town where they then were but they took up their head-quarters at the house of him with whom they first went ashore When the Ship appeared in sight again then they importuned them for some Iron which is the chief thing that they covet even above their Ear-rings We might have bought all their Ear-rings or other Gold they had with our Iron-bars had we been assur'd of its goodness and yet when it was touch'd and compared with other Gold we could not discern any difference tho it look'd so pale in the lump but the seeing them polish it so often was a new discouragement This last Storm put our Men quite out of heart for although it was not altogether so fierce as that which we were in on the Coast of China which was still fresh in memory yet it wrought more powerfully and frighted them from their design of cruising before Manila fearing another Storm there Now every Man wisht himself at home as they had done an hundred times before but Captain Reed and Captain Teat the Master perswaded them to go towards Cape Comorin and then they would tell them more of their minds intending doubtless to cruize in the Red Sea and they easily prevailed with the Crew The Eastern Monsoon was now at hand and the best way had been to go through the Streights of Malacca but Captain Teat said it was dangerous by reason of many Islands and Shoals there with which none of us were acquainted Therefore he thought it best to go round on the East side of all the Philippine Islands and so keeping South toward the Spice Islands to pass out into the East Indian Ocean about the Island Timor This seemed to be a very tedious way about and as dangerous altogether for Sholes but not for meeting with English or Dutch Ships which was their greatest fear I was well enough satisfied knowing that the farther we went the more Knowledge and Experience I should get which was the main thing that I regarded and should also have the more variety of places to attempt an Escape from them being fully resolv'd to take the first opportunity of giving them the slip CHAP. XVI They depart from the Bashee Islands and passing by some others and the N. End of Luconia St. John's Isle and other of the Philippines they stop at the two Isles near Mindanao where they re-fit their Ship and make a Pump after the Spanish fashion By the young Prince of the Spice-Island they have News of Captain Swan and his men left at Mindanao The Author proposes to the Crew to return to him but in vain the story of his Murder at Mindanao The Clove-Islands Ternate Tidore c. The Island Celebes and Dutch Town of Macasser They Coast along the East side of Celebes and between it and other Islands and Sholes with great Difficulty Shy Turtle Vast Cookles A wild Vine of great Virtue for Sores Great Trees one excessively big Beacons instead of Buoys on the Sholes A Spout a Description of them with a story of one Uncertain Tornadoes Turtle The Island Bouton and its chief Town and Harbour Callasusung The Inhabitants Visits given and receiv'd by the Sultan His Device in the Flag of his Proe his Guards Habit and Children Their Commerce Their different esteem as they pretend of the English and Dutch Maritime Indians sell others for Slaves Their Reception in the Town A Boy with 4 Rows of Teeth Parakites Crockadores a sort of White Parrots They pass among other Inhabited Islands Omba Pentare Timor c. Sholes New-Holland laid down too much Northward It s Soil and Dragon trees The poor Winking Inhabitants their Features Habit Food Arms c. The way of fetching Fire out of Wood. The Inhabitants on the Islands Their Habitations Unfitness for Labour c. The great Tides here They design for the Island Cocos and Cape Comorin THE third day of October 1687. we sailed from these Islands standing to the Southward intending to sail through among the Spice Islands We had fair weather and the wind at West We first steered S. S. W. and passed close by certain small Islands that lye just by the North end of the Island Luconia We left them all on the West of us and past on the East side of it and the rest of the Philippine Islands coasting to rhe Southward The N. East end of the Island Luconia appears to be good Champion Land of an indifferent heighth plain and even for many leagues only it has some pretty high Hills standing upright by themselves in these Plains but no ridges of Hills or chains of Mountains joyning one to another The Land on this side seems to be most Savannah or Pasture The S. E. part is more Mountainous and Woody Leaving the Island Luconia and with it our Golden projects we sailed on the Southward passing on the East side of the rest of the Philippine Islands These appear to be more Mountainous and less Woody till we came in sight of the Island St. John the first of that name I mentioned the other I spake of on the Coast of China This I have already described to be a very woody Island Here the Wind coming Southerly forced us to keep farther from the Islands The 14th day of October we came close by a small low Woody Island that lyeth East from the S. E. end of Mindanao distant from it about 20 leagues I do not find it set down in any Sea-Chart The 15th day we had the Wind at N. E. and we steered West for the Island Mindanao and arrived at the S. E. end again on the 16th day There we went in and anchored between two small Islands which lye in about 5 d. 10 m. N. Lat. I mentioned them when we first came on this Coast. Here we found a fine small Cove on the N. W. end of the Eastermost Island fit to Careen in or hale ashore so we went in there and presently unrigged our Ship and provided to hale our Ship ashore to clean her bottom These Islands are about 3 or 4 leagues from the Island Mindanao they are about 4 or 5 miles in circumference and of a pretty good heighth The mold is black and deep and there are two small Brooks of fresh Water They are both plentifully stored with great high Trees therefore our Carpenters were sent ashore to cut down some of them for our use for here they made a new Boltsprit
side of which are 4 small Islands close by it which are very well stored with Cloves The two chiefest are Ternate and Tidore and as the Isle of Ceylon is reckoned the only place for Cinnamon and that of Banda for Nutmegs so these are thought by some to be the only Clove Islands in the World but this is a great error as I have already shewn At the South end of the Island Celebes there is a Sea or Gulph of about 7 or 8 leagues wide and 40 or 50 long which runs up the Countrey almost directly to the North and this Gulph hath several small Islands along the middle of it On the West side of the Island almost at the South end of it the Town of Macasser is seated A Town of great Strength and Trade belonging to the Dutch There are great Inlets and Lakes on the East side of the Island as also abundance of small Islands and sholes lying scattered about it We saw a high peeked Hill at the N. end but the Land on the East side is low all along for we cruized almost the length of it The mold on this side is black and deep and extraordinary fat and rich and full of Trees and there are many Brooks of Water run out into the Sea Indeed all this East side of the Island seems to be but one large Grove of extraordinary great high Trees Having with much ado got on this East side coasting along to the Southward and yet having but little Wind and even that little against us at S. S. W. and sometimes Calm we were a long time going about the Island The 22d day we were in Lat. 1 d. 20 m. South and being about 3 leagues from the Island standing to the Southward with a very gentle Land wind about 2 or 3 a clock in the morning we heard a clashing in the Water like Boats rowing and fearing some sudden attack we got up all our Arms and stood ready to defend our selves As soon as it was day we saw a great Proe built like the Mindanayan Proe's with about 60 men in her and 6 smaller Proe's They lay still about a mile to Windward of us to view us and probably design'd to make a prey of us when they first came out but they were now afraid to venture on us At last we shewed them Dutch Colours thinking thereby to allure them to come to us for we could not go to them but they presently rowed in toward the Island and went into a large opening and we saw them no more nor did we ever see any other Boats or Men but only one fishing Canoa while we were about this Island neither did we see any House on all the Coast. About 5 or 6 leagues to the South of this place there is a great Range of both large and small Islands and many shoals also that are not laid down in our Drafts which made it extreamly troublesom for us to get through But we past between them all and the Island Celebes and anchored against a sandy Bay in 8 fathom sandy ground about half a mile from the main Island being then in lat 1 d. 50 m. South Here we stayed several days and sent out our Canoas a striking of Turtle every day for here is great plenty of them but they were very shy as they were generally where-ever we found them in the East India Seas I know not the reason of it unless the Natives go very much a striking here for even in the West Indies they are shy in places that are much disturbed and yet on New Holland we found them shy as I shall relate though the Natives there do not molest them On the sholes without us we went and gathered Shell-fish at low water There were a monstrous sort of Cockles the Meat of one of them would suffice 7 or 8 Men. It was very good wholsom Meat We did also beat about in the Woods on the Island but found no game One of our Men who was always troubled with sore Legs found a certain Vine that supported it self by climbing about other Trees The leaves reach'd 6 or 7 feet high but the strings or branches 11 or 12. It had a very green leaf pretty broad and roundish and of a thick substance These leaves pounded small and boiled with Hogs Lard make an excellent Salve Our Men knowing the vertues of it stockt themselves here there was scarce a Man in the Ship but got a pound or two of it especially such as were troubled with old Ulcers who found great benefit by it This Man that discovered these leaves here had his first knowledge of them in the Isthmus of Darien he having had this Receipt from one of the Indians there and he had been ashore in divers places since purposely to seek these leaves but did never find any but here Among the many vast Trees hereabouts there was one exceeded all the rest This Captain Read caused to be cut down in order to make a Canoa having lost our Boats all but one small one in the late Storms so 6 lusty Men who had been Logwood cutters in the Bays of Campeachy and Honduras as Captain Read himself and many more of us had and so were very expert at this work undertook to fell it taking their turns 3 always cutting together and they were one whole day and half the next before they got it down This Tree though it grew in a Wood was yet 18 foot in circumference and 44 foot of clean body without knot or branch and even there it had no more than one or two branches and then ran clean again 10 foot higher there it spread it self into many great limbs and branches like an Oak very green and flourishing yet it was perisht at the heart which marr'd it for the service intended So leaving it and having no more business here we weighed and went from hence the next day it being the 29th day of November While we lay here we had some Tornadoes one or two every day and pretty fresh Land Winds which were at West The Sea breezes were small and uncertain sometimes out of the N. E. and so veering about to the East and South East We had the Wind at North East when we weighed and we steered off S. S. W. In the afternoon we saw a shole a head of us and altered our course to the S. S. E. In the evening at 4 a clock we were close by another great shole therefore we tackt and stood in for the Island Celebes again for fear of running on some of the sholes in the night By day a Man might avoid them well enough for they had all Beacons on them like Huts built on tall Posts above high-water mark probably set up by the Natives of the Island Celebes or those of some other neighbouring Islands and I never saw any such elsewhere In the night we had a violent Tornado out of the S. W. which lasted about an hour The 30th day
we had a fresh Land Wind and steered away South passing between the 2 Shoals which we saw the day before These Shoals lye in lat 3 d. South and about 10 leagues from the Island Celebes Being past them the Wind died away and we lay decalmed till the afternoon Then we had a hard Tornado out of the South West and towards the evening we saw two or three Spouts the first I had seen since I came into the East Indies in the West Indies I had often met with them A Spout is a small ragged piece or part of a Cloud hanging down about a yard seemingly from the blackest part thereof Commonly it hangs down sloping from thence or sometimes appearing with a small bending or elbow in the middle I never saw any hang perpendicularly down It is small at the lower end seeming no bigger than ones Arm but 't is fuller towards the Cloud from whence it proceeds When the surface of the Sea begins to work you shall see the Water for about 100 paces in circumference foam and move gently round till the whirling motion increases and then it flies upward in a pillar about 100 paces in compass at the bottom but lessening gradually upwards to the smallness of the Spout it self there where it reacheth the lower end of the Spout through which the rising Sea-water seems to be conveyed into the Clouds This visibly appears by the Clouds increasing in bulk and blackness Then you shall presently see the Cloud drive along although before it seemed to be without any motion the Spout also keeping the same course with the Cloud and still sucking up the Water as it goes along and they make a Wind as they go Thus it continues for the space of half an hour more or less until the sucking is spent and then breaking off all the Water which was below the Spout or pendulous piece of Cloud falls down again into the Sea making a great noise with its fall and clashing motion in the Sea It is very dangerous for a Ship to be under a Spout when it breaks therefore we always endeavoured to shun it by keeping at a distance if possibly we can But for want of Wind to carry us away we are often in great fear and danger for it is usually calm when Spouts are at work except only just where they are Therefore men at Sea when they see a Spout coming and know not how to avoid it do sometimes fire shot out of their great Guns into it to give it air or vent that so it may break but I did never hear that it proved to be of any benefit And now being on this subject I think it not amiss to give you an account of an accident that happened to a Ship once on the Coast of Guinea some time in or about the year 1674. One Captain Records of London bound for the Coast of Guinea in a Ship of 300 Tuns and 16 Guns called the Blessing when he came into the lat 7 or 8 degrees North he saw several Spouts one of which came directly towards the Ship and he having no Wind to get out of the way of the Spout made ready to receive it by furling his sails It came on very swift and broke a little before it reached the Ship making a great noise and raising the Sea round it as if a great house or some such thing had been cast into the Sea The fury of the Wind still lasted and took the Ship on the Starboard bow with such violence that it snapt off the Boltsprit and Fore-mast both at once and blew the Ship all along ready to over-set it but the Ship did presently right again and the Wind whirling round took the Ship a second time with the like fury as before but on the contrary side and was again like to overset her the other way The Mizen-mast felt the fury of this second blast and was snapt short off as the Fore-mast and Bolt-sprit had been before The Main-mast and Main-top-mast received no damage for the fury of the Wind which was presently over did not reach them Three men were in the Fore-top when the Fore-mast broke and one on the Boltsprit and fell with them into the Sea but all of them were saved I had this relation from Mr. John Canby who was then Quarter-master and Steward of her one Ahraham Wise was chief Mate and Leonard Jefferies second Mate We are usually very much afraid of them yet this was the only damage that ever I heard done by them They seem terrible enough the rather because they come upon you while you lie becalm'd like a Log in the Sea and cannot get out of their way but though I have seen and been beset by them often yet the fright was always the greatest of the harm December the 1st we had a gentle gale at E. S. E. we steered South and at noon I was by Observation in lat 3 d. 34 m. South Then we saw the Island Bouton bearing South West and about 10 leagues distant We had very uncertain and unconstant Winds The Tornadoes came out of the S. W. which was against us and what other Winds we had were so saint that they did us little kinndess but we took the advantage of the smallest gale and got a little way every day The 4th day at noon I was by Observation in Lat. 4 d. 30 m. South The 5th day we got close by the N. W. end of the Island Bouton and in the evening it being fair weather we hoised out our Canoa and sent the Moskito men of whom we had 2 or 3 to strike Turtle for here are plenty of them but they being shy we chose to strike them in the night which is customary in the West Indies also For every time they come up to breathe which is once in 8 or 10 minutes they blow so hard that one may hear them at 30 or 40 yards distance by which means the Striker knows where they are and may more easily approach them than in the day for the Turtle sees bettter than he hears but on the contrary the Manatee's hearing is quickest In the morning they returned with a very large Turtle which they took near the shore and withal an Indian of the Island came aboard with them He spake the Malayan Language by which we did understand him He told us that 2 leagues farther to the Southward of us there was a good Harbour in which we might Anchor So having a fair Wind we got thither by noon This Harbour is in Lat. 4 d. 54 m. South lying on the East side of the Island Bouton Which Island lyes near the S. E. end of the Island Celebes distant from it about 3 or 4 leagues It is of a long form stretching S. W. and N. E. about 25 leagues long and 10 broad It is pretty high Land and appears pretty even and flat and very woody There is a large Town within a league of the anchoring
us at last the Captain ordered the Drum to be beaten which was done of a sudden with much vigor purposely to scare the poor Creatures They hearing the noise ran away as fast as they could drive and when they ran away in haste they would cry Gurry Gurry speaking deep in the Throat Those Inhabitants also that live on the Main would always run away from us yet we took several of them For as I have already observed they had such bad Eyes that they could not see us till we came close to them We did always give them victuals and let them go again but the Islanders after our first time of being among them did not stir for us When we had been here about a week we hal'd our Ship into a small sandy Cove at a Spring-tide as far as she would sloat and at low Water she was left dry and the sand dry without us near half a mile for the Sea riseth and falleth here about 5 fathom The Flood runs North by East and the Ebb South by West All the Neep-tides we lay wholly a ground for the Sea did not come near us by about a hundred yards We had therefore time enough to clean our Ships bottom which we did very well Most of our Men lay ashore in a Tent where our Sails were mending and our Strikers brought home Turtle and Manatee every day which was our constant food While we lay here I did endeavour to perswade our men to go to some English Factory but was threatened to be turned ashore and left here for it This made me desist and patiently wait for some more convenient place and opportunity to leave them than here Which I did hope I should accomplish in a short time because they did intend when they went from hence to bear down towards Cape Comorin In their way thither they design'd also to visit the Island Cocos which lyeth in Lat. 12 d. 12 m. North by our Drafts hoping there to find of that Fruit the Island having it name from thence CHAP. XVII Leaving New-Holland they pass by the Island Cocos and touch at another Woody Island near it A Land Animal like large Craw-fish Coco-Nuts floating in the Sea The Island Triste bearing Coco's yet over-flown every Spring-tide They anchor at a small Island near that of Nassaw Hog Island and others A Proe taken belonging to Achin Nicobar Island and the rest called by that Name Ambergrease good and bad The manners of the Inhabitants of these Islands They anchor at Nicobar Isle It s Situation Soil and pleasant Mixture of its Bays Trees c. The Melory tree and Fruit used for bread The Natives of Nicobar Island their Form Habit Language Habitations no form of Religion or Government Their Food and Canoas They clean the Ship The Author projects and gets leave to stay ashore here and with him two Englishmen more the Portuguese and 4 Malayans of Achin Their first Rencounters with the Natives Of the common Traditions concerning Cannibals or Man-Eaters Their Entertainment ashore They buy a Canoa to transport them over to Achin but overset her at first going cut Having recruited and improved her they set out again for the East side of the Island They have a War with the Islanders but Peace being re-established they lay in stores and make Preparations for their Voyage MArch the 12th 1688. we sailed from New Holland with the Wind at N. N. W. and fair weather We directed our course to the Northward intending as I said to touch at the Island Cocos but we met with the Winds at N. W. W. N. W. and N N. W. for several days which obliged us to keep a more Easterly course than was convenient to find that Island We had soon after our setting out very bad weather with much Thunder and Lightning Rain and high blustring Winds It was the 26th day of March before we were in the lat of the Island Cocos which is in 12 d. 12 m. and then by judgment we were 40 or 50 leagues to the East of it and the Wind was now at S. W. Therefore we did rather chuse to bear away towards some Islands on the West side of Sumatra than to beat against the Wind for the Island Cocos I was very glad of this being in hopes to make my escape from them to Sumatra or some other place We met nothing of remark in this Voyage beside the catching two great Sharks till the 28th day Then we fell in with a small woody Island in Lat. 10 d. 30 m. Its Longitude from New Holland from whence we came was by my account 12 d. 6 m. West It was deep water about the Island and therefore no anchoring but we sent 2 Canoas ashore one of them with the Carpenters to cut a Tree to make another Pump the other Canoa went to search for fresh water and found a fine small Brook near the S. W. point of the Island but there the Sea fell in on the ashore so high that they could not get it off At noon both our Canoas returned aboard and the Carpenters brought aboard a good Tree which they afterwards made a Pump with such a one as they made at Mindanao The other Canoa brought aboard as many Boobies and Men of War Birds as sufficed all the Ships Company when they were boiled They got also a sort of Land Animal somewhat resembling a large Craw-fish without its great Claws These creatures lived in holes in the dry sandy ground like Rabbits Sir Francis Drake in his Voyage round the world makes mention of such that he found at Ternate or some other of the Spice Islands or near them They were very good sweet Meat and so large that 2 of them were more than a Man could eat being almost as thick as ones Leg. Their Shells were of a dark brown but red when boiled This Island is of a good heighth with steep Cliffs against the S. and S. W. and a sandy Bay on the North side but very deep water steep to the shore The Mold is blackish the Soil fat producing large Trees of divers sorts About one a clock in the Afternoon we made sail from this Island with the wind at S. W. and we steered N. W. Afterwards the winds came about at N. W. and continued between the W. N. W. and the N. N. W. several days I observed that the winds blew for the most part out of the West or N. W. and then we had always rainy weather with Tornadoes and much Thunder and Lightning but when the wind came any way to the Southward it blew but faint and brought fair weather We met nothing of remark till the 7th day of April and then being in Lat. 7 d. S. we saw thâ—… Land of Sumatra at a great distance bearing North. The 8th day we saw the East end of the Island Sumatra very plainly we being then in Lat. 6 d. S. The 10th day being in Lat. 5 d. 11 m. and about 7
or 8 leagues from the Island Sumatra on the West side of it we saw abundance of Coco Nuts swimming in the Sea and we hoysed out our Boat and took up some of them as also a small Hatch or Scuttle rather belonging to some Bark The Nuts were very sound and the Kernel sweet and in some the Milk or Water in them was yet sweet and good The 13th day we came to a small Island called Triste in Lat. by observation 4 d. South it is about 14 or 15 leagues to the West of the Island Sumatra From hence to the Northward there are a great many small uninhabited Islands lying much at the same distance from Sumatra This Island Triste is not a mile round and so low that the Tide flows clear over it It is of a sandy soil and full of Coco-nut Trees The Nuts are but small yet sweet enough full and more ponderous than I ever felt any of that bigness notwithstanding that every Spring-tide the Salt water goes clear over the Island We sent ashore our Canoas for Coco-nuts and they return'd aboard laden with them three times Our Strikers also went out and struck some Fish which was boiled for Supper They also killed 2 young Aligators which we salted for the next day I had no opportunity at this place to make my Escape as I would have done and gone over hence to Sumatra could I have kept a Boat with me But there was no compassing this and so the 15th day we went from hence steering to the Northward on the West side of Sumatra Our Food now was Rice and the Meat of the Coco-nuts rasped and steep'd in water which made a sort of Milk into which we did put our Rice making a pleasant Mess enough After we parted from Triste we saw other small Islands that were also full of Coco-nut Trees The 19th day being in Lat. 3 d. 25 m. S. the S. W. point of the Island Nassau bore N. about 5 mile dist This is a pretty large uninhabited Island in Lat. 3 d. 20 m. S. and is full of high Trees About a mile from the Island Nassau there is a small Island full of Coco-nut Trees There we anchored the 20th day to replenish our stock of Coco-nut Trees A 〈◊〉 riff of Rocks lies almost round this Island so that our Boats could not go ashore nor come aboard at low water yet we got aboard 4 Boat loads of Nuts This Island is low like Triste and the anchoring is on the North side where you have 14 fathom a mile from shore clean sand The 21st day we went from hence and kept to the Northward coasting still on the West side of the Island Sumatra and having the winds between the W. and S. S. W. with unsettled weather sometimes Rains and Tornadoes and sometimes fair weather The 25th day we crost the Equator still coasting to the Northward between the Island Sumatra and a range of small Islands lying 14 or 15 leagues off it Among all these Islands Hog Island is the most considerable It lies in lat 3 d. 40. m. North. It is pretty high even Land cloathed with tall flourishing Trees we past by it the 28th day The 29th we saw a sail to the North of us which we chased but it being little wind we did not come up with her till the 30th day Then being within a league of her Captain Read went in a Canoa and took her and brought her aboard She was a Proe with 4 men in her belonging to Achin whither she was bound She came from one of these Coco-nut Islands that we past by and was laden with Coco-nuts and Goco-nut Oil. Captain Read ordered his men to take aboard all the Nuts and as much of the Oyl as he thought convenient and then cut a hole in the bottom of the Proe and turned her loose keeping the men Prisoners It was not for the lucre of the Cargo that Captain Read took this Boat but to hinder me and some others from going ashore for he knew that we were ready to make our escapes if an opportunity presented it self and he thought that by his abusing and robbing the Natives we should be afraid to trust our selves among them But yet this proceeding of his turned to our great advantage as shall be declared hereafter May the 1st we ran down by the North West end of the Island Sumatra within 7 or 8 leagues of the shore All this West side of Sumatra which we thus coasted along our Englishmen at Fort St. George call the West Coast simply without adding the name of Sumatra The Prisoners who were taken the day before shewed us the Islands that lye off of Achin Harbour and the Channels through which Ships go in and told us also that there was an English Factory at Achin I wisht my self there but was forced to wait with patience till my time was come We were now directing our course towards the Nicobar Islands intending there to clean the Ship 's bottom in order to make her sail well The 4th day in the evening we had sight of one of the Nicobar Islands The Southermost of them lies about 40 leagues N. N. W. from rhe N. W. end of the Island Sumatra This most Southerly of them is Nicobar it self but all the cluster of Islands lying South of the Audeman Islands are called by our Seamen the Nicobar Islands The Inhabitants of these Islands have no certain converse with any Nation but as Ships pass by them they will come aboard in their Proes and offer their Commodities to sale never inquiring of what Nation they are for all white people are alike to them Their chiefest Commodities are Ambergrease and Fruits Ambergrease is often found by the Native Indians of these Islands who know it very well as also know how to cheat ignorant Strangers with a certain mixture like it Several of our men bought such of them for a small purchase Captain Weldon also about this time touched at some of these Islands to the North of the Island where we lay and I saw a great deal of such Ambergrease that one of his men bought there but it was not good having no smell at all Yet I saw some there very good and fragrant At that Island where Captain Weldon was there were 2 Fryers sent thither to convert the Indians One of them came away with Captain Weldon the other remained there still He that came away with Captain Weldon gave a very good character of the Inhabitants of that Island viz. that they were very honest civil harmless People that they were not addicted to Quarrelling Theft or Murder that they did marry or at least live as Man and Wife one Man with one Woman never changing till Death made the separation that they were punctual and honest in performing their Bargains and that they were inclined to receive the Christian Religion This Relation I had afterwards from the mouth of a Priest at Tonqueen who told me that he
detestation on actions which before I disliked but now I trembled at the remembrance of I had long before this repented me of that rovingcourse of life but never with such concern as now I did also call to mind the many miraculous acts of Gods Providence towards me in the whole course of my life of which kind I believe few men have met with the like For all these I returned thanks in a peculiar manner and this once more desired Gods assistance and composed my mind as well as I could in the hopes of it and as the event shew'd I was not disappointed of my hopes Submitting our selves therefore to Gods good providence and taking all the care we could to preserve our lives Mr. Hall and I took turns to steer and the rest took turns to heave out the Water and thus we provided to spend the most doleful night I ever was in About 10 a clock it began to Thunder Lighten and Rain but the Rain was very welcom to us having drank up all the Water we brought from the Island The Wind at first blew harder than before but within half an hour it abated and became more moderate and the Sea also asswaged of its fury and then by a lighted Match of which we kept a piece burning on purpose we looked on our Compass to see how we steered and found our course to be still East We had no occasion to look on the Compass before for we steered right before the Wind which if it had shifted we had been obliged to have altered our couse accordingly But now it being abated we found our Vessel lively enough with that small sail which was then aboard to hale to our former course S. S. E. which accordingly we did being now in hopes again to get to the Island Sumatra But about 2 a clock in the morning of the 19th day we had another gust of Wind with much Thunder Lightening and Rain which lasted till day and obliged us to put before the Wind again steering thus for several hours It was very dark and the hard Rain soaked us so throughly that we had not one dry thread about us The Rain chill'd us extreamly for any fresh water is much colder than that of the Sea For even in the coldest Climates the Sea is warm and in the hottest Climates the Rain is cold and unwholesome for mans body In this wet starveling plight we spent the tedious night Never did poor Mariners on a Lee-shore more earnestly long for the dawning light than we did now At length the day appeared but with such dark black Clouds near the Horizon that the first glimpse of the Dawn appeared 30 or 40 degrees high which was dreadful enough for it is a common saying among Sea-men and true as I have experienced that a high dawn will have high winds and a low dawn small winds We continued our course still East before Wind and Sea till about 8 a clock in the morning of this 19th day and then one of our Malayan friends cryed out Pulo Way Mr. Hall and Ambrose and I thought the fellow had said Pull away an expression usual among English Sea-men when they are Rowing And we wonder'd what he meant by it till we saw him point to his consorts and then we looking that way saw Land appearing like an Island and all our Malayans said it was an Island at the N. W. end of Sumatra called Way for Pulo Way is the Island Way We who were dropping with wet cold and hungry were all overjoyed at the sight of the Land and presently marked its bearing It bore South and the Wind was still at West a strong gale but the Sea did not run so high as in the night Therefore we trimmed our small Sail no bigger than an Apron and steered with it Now our Outlagers did us a great kindness again for although we had but a small sail yet the Wind was strong and prest down our Vessels side very much but being supported by the Outlagers we could brook it well enough which otherwise we could not have done About noon we saw more Land beneath the supposed Pulo Way and steering towards it before night we saw all the Coast of Sumatra and found the errours of our Achinese for the high Land that we first saw which then appeared like an Island was not Pulo Way but a great high Mountain on the Island Sumatra called by the English the Golden Mountain Our Wind continued till about 7 a clock at night then it abated and at 10 a clock it died away and then we stuck to our Oars again though all of us quite tired with our former fatigues and hardships The next morning being the 20th day we saw all the low Land plain and judged our selves not above 8 leagues off About 8 a clock in the morning we had the Wind again at West a fresh gale and steering in still for the Shore at 5 a clock in the afternoon we run to the mouth of a River on the Island Sumatra called Passange Jonca It is 34 leagues to the Eastward of Achin and 6 leagues to the West of Diamond Point which makes with 3 Angles of a Rhombus and is low Land Our Malayans were very well acquainted here and carried us to a small fishing Village within a mile of the Rivers mouth called also by the name of the River Passange Jonca The hardships of this Voyage with the scorching heat of the Sun at our first setting out and the cold Rain and our continuing wet for the last two days cast us all into Fevers so that now we were not able to help each other nor so much as to get our Canoa up to the Village but our Malayans got some of the Townsmen to bring her up The news of our arrival being noised abroad one of the Oramkai's or Noblemen of the Island came in the night to see us We were then lying in a small Hut at the end of the Town and it being late this Lord only viewed us and having spoken with our Malayans went away again but he returned to us again the next day and provided a large house for us to live in till we should be recovered of our sickness ordering the Towns-people to let us want for nothing The Achinese Malayans that came with us told them all the circumstances of our Voyage how they were taken by our Ship and where and how we that came with them were Prisoners aboard the Ship and had been set ashore together at Nicobar as they were It was for this reason probably that the Gentlemen of Sumatra were thus extraordinary kind to us to provide every thing that we had need of nay they would force us to accept of Presents from them that we knew not what to do with as young Buffaloes Goats c. for these we would turn loose at night after the Gentlemen that gave them to us were gone for we were prompted by our Achinese Consorts to
this means is at least 3 months within 4 degrees of the Zenith so that they have the Sun in a manner over their heads from the beginning of May till the latter end of July Whereas when the Sun comes under the Line in March or September it immediately posts away to the North or the South and is not 20 days in passing from 3 degrees on one side to 3 degrees on the other side the Line So that by his small stay there the heat cannot be answerable to what it is near the Tropick where he so long continues in a manner Vertical at Noon and is so much longer above the Horizon each paaticular day with the intervening of a shorter night But to return to Tonquin During the wet months there 't is excessive hot especially whenever the Sun breaks out of the Clouds and there is then but little Wind stirring And I have been told by a Gentleman who liv'd there many years that he thought it was the hottest place that ever he was in tho he had been in many other parts of India And as to the Rains it has not the least share of them tho neither altogether the greatest of what I have met with in the Torrid Zone and even in the same Latitude and on the same side of the Equator The wet season begins here the latter end of April or the beginning of May and holds till the latter end of August in which time are very violent Rains some of many hours others of 2 or 3 days continuance Yet are not these Rains without some considerable intervals of fair weather especially toward the beginning or end of the season By these Rains are caus'd those Land-floods which never fail in these Countries between the Tropicks at their annual periods all the Rivers then overflowing their Banks This is a thing so well known to all who are any way acquainted with the Torrid Zone that the cause of the overflowing of the Nile to find out which the Ancients set their wits so much upon the rack and fancied melting of Snows and blowing of Etesiae and I know not what is now no longer a secret For these floods must needs discharge themselves upon such low Lands as lie in their way as the Land of Egypt does with respect to the Nile coming a great way from within the Torrid Zone and falling down from the higher Ethiopia And any one who will be at the pains to compare the time of the Land flood in Egypt with that of the Torrid Zone in any of the parts of it along which the Nile runs will find that of Egypt so much later than the other as 't will be thought reasenable to allow for the daily progress of the Waters along so vast a tract of Ground They might have made the same wonderment of any other Rivers which run any long course from out the Torrid Zone but they knowing only the North Temperate Zone and the Nile being the only great River known to come thither a great way from a Country near the Line they made that only the subject of their enquiry but the same effect must also follow from any great River that should run from out of the Torrid Zone into the South Temperate Zone And as to the Torrid Zone the yearly floods and their cause are every where as well known by people there as the Rivers themselves In America particularly in Campeachy Rivers in Rio Grande and others 't is a vast havock is made by these floods bringing down sometimes Trees of an incredible bigness and these floods always come at the stated season of the year In the dry part of Peru along the coasts of Pacifick Sea where it never rains as it seldom does in Egypt they have not only Floods but Rivers themselves made by the annual falling of Rain on the Mountains within Land the Channels of which are dry all the rest of the year This I have observ'd concerning the River Ylo on the Coast of Peru in my former Volume p. 95. But it has this difference from the Floods of Egypt that besides its being a River in the Torrid Zone 't is also in South Latitude and so overflows at a contrary season of the year to wit at such time as the Sun being in Southern Signs causes the Rains and Floods on that side the Line But to return from this digression in August the weather at Tonquin is more moderate as to heat or wet yet not without some showers and September and October are more temperate still yet the worst weather in all the year for Seamen is in one of the 3 months last mentioned for then the violent Storms called Tuffoons Typhones are expected These winds are so very fierce that for fear of them the Chinese that Trade thither will not stir out of Harbour till the end of October after which month there is no more danger of any violent Storms till the next year Tuffoons are a particular kind of violent Storms blowing on the Coast of Tonquin and the neighboring Coasts in the months of July August and September They commonly happen near the full or change of the Moon and are usually preceded by very fair weather small winds and a clear Sky Those small winds veer from the common Trade of that time of the year which is here at S. W. and shuffles about to the N. and N. E. Before the Storm comes there appears a boding Cloud in the N. E. which is very black near the Horizon but towards the upper edge it looks of a dark copper colour and higher still it is brighter and afterwards it fades to a whitish glaring colour at the very edge of the Cloud This appears very amazing and ghastly and is sometimes seen 12 hours before the Storm comes When that Cloud begins to move apace you may expect the Wind presently It comes on fierce and blows very violent at N. E. 12 hours more or less It is also commonly accompanied with terrible claps of Thunder large and frequent flashes of Lightning and excessive hard rain When the Wind begins to abate it dyes away suddenly and falling flat calm it continues so an hour more or less then the wind comes about to the S. W. and it blows and rains as fierce from thence as it did before at N. E. and as long November and December are 2 very dry wholesom warm and pleasant months January February and March are pretty dry but then you have thick fogs in the morning and sometimes drisling cold rains the Air also in these 3 months particularly in January and February is very sharp especially when the wind is at North East or North North East whether because of the Quarter it blows from or the Land it blows over I know not for I have elsewhere observ'd such Winds to be Colder where they have come from over Land April is counted a moderate month either as to heat or cold driness or moisture This is ordinarily the
long yet graceful enough They have black Eyes middling Noses thin Lips and black Teeth by the frequent use of Betle They are very lazy and care not to work or take pains The poorer sort are addicted to theft and are often punished severely for it They are otherwise good natured in general and kind enough to strangers The better sort of them wear Caps fitted to their heads of red or other coloured Woollen Cloath like the Crown of a Hat without any brims for none of the Eastern people use the Complement of uncovering their Heads when they meet as we do But the general wear for all sorts of people is a small Turban such as the Mindanaians wear described in the 12th Chapter of my former Volume page 326. They have small Breeches and the better sort will have a piece of Silk thrown loosely over their Shoulders but the poor go naked from the waste upwards Neither have they the use of Stockings and Shoes but a sort of Sandals are worn by the better sort Their Houses are built on Posts as those of Mindanao and they live much after the same fashion but by reason of their Gold Mines and the frequent resort of strangers they are richer and live in greater plenty Their common food is Rice and the better sort have Fowls and Fish with which the Markets are plentifully stored and sometimes Buffaloes flesh all which is drest very savourily with Pepper and Garlick and tinctured yellow with Turmerick to make it pleasant to the Eye as the East Indians generally love to have their food look yellow neither do they want good Achars or Sauces to give it a relish The City of Achin is the chief in all this Kingdom It is seated on the Banks of a River near the N. W. end of the Island and about 2 miles from the Sea This Town consists of 7 or 8000 Houses and in it there are always a great many Merchant-strangers viz English Dutch Danes Portuguese Chinese Guzarats c. The Houses of this City are generally larger than those I saw at Mindanao and better furnished with Houshold Goods The City has no Walls nor so much as a Ditch about it It has a greater number of Mosques generally square built and covered with Pantile but neither high nor large Every morning a man madea great Noise from thence but I saw no Turrets or Steeples for them to climb up into for that purpose as they have generally in Turkey The Queen has a large Palace here built handsomely with Stone but I could not get into the inside of it 'T is said there are some great Guns about it 4 of which are of Brass and are said to have been sent hither as a present by our K. James the 1st The chief Trades at Achin are Carpenters Blacksmiths Goldsmiths Fishermen and Money-changers but the Country people live either on breeding heads of Cattle but most for their own use or Fowls especially they who live near the City which they send weekly thither to sell others plant Roots Fruits c. and of late they have sown pretty large Fields of Rice This thrives here well enough but they are so proud that it is against their Stomach to work neither do they themselves much trouble their heads about it but leave it to be managed by their Slaves and they were the Slaves brought lately by the English and Danes from the Coast of Coromandel in the time of a Famin there I spoke of before who first brought this sort of Husbandry into such request among the Achinese Yet neither does the Rice they have this way supply one quarter of their occasions but they have it brought to them from their Neighbouring Countreys The Fishermen are the richest working people I mean such of them as can purchase a Net for thereby they get great profit and this sort of imployment is managed also by their Slaves In fair weather you shall have 8 or 10 great Boats each with a Sain or haling Net and when they see a Shoal of Fish they strive to incompass them with these Nets and all the Boats that are near assist each other to drag them ashore Sometimes they draw ashore this way 50 60 or 100 large Fish as big as a mans Leg and as long and then they rejoyce mightily and scamper about making a great shout The Fish is presently sent to the Market in one of their Boats the rest looking out again for more Those who Fish with Hook and Line go out in small Proes with but 1 or 2 Slaves in each Proe These also get good Fish of other sorts which they carry home to their Masters The Carpenters use such hatchets as they have at Mindanao They build good Houses after their fashion and they are also ingenious enough in building Proes making very pretty ones especially of that sort which are Flying Proes which are built long deep narrow and sharp with both sides alike and outlagers on each side the Head and Stern like other Boats They carry a great Sail and when the Wind blows hard they send a man or two to sit at the extremity of the Windward outlager to poise the Vessel They build also some Vessels of 10 or 20 Tuns burthen to Trade from one place to another but I think their greatest ingenuity is in building their Flying Proes which are made very smooth kept neat and clean and will sail very well for which reason they had that name given them by the English There are but few Blacksmiths in this Town neither are they very skilful at their Trade The Goldsmiths are commonly strangers yet some of the Achinese themselves know how to work Metals tho not very well The Money-changers are here as at Tonquin most Women These sit in the Markets and at the corners of the Streets with leaden Money called Cash which is a name that is generally given to small money in all these Countreys but the Cash here is neither of the same Metal nor value with that at Tonquin for that is Copper and this is Lead or Block Tin such as will bend about the Finger They have but two sorts of Coin of their own the least sort is this Leaden money call'd Cash and 't is the same with what they call Petties at Bantam Of these 1500 make a Mess which is their other sort of Coin and is a small thin piece of Gold stampt with Malayan Letters on each side It is in value 15 pence English 16 Mess make a Tale which here is 20 s. English 5 Tale make a Bancal a weight so called and 20 Bancal make a Catty another weight But their Gold Coin seldom holds weight for you shall sometimes have 5 Tale and 8 Mess over go to make a Pecul and tho 1500 Cash is the value of a Mess yet these rise and fall at the discretion of the Money-changers for sometimes you shall have 1000 Cash for a Mess but they are kept usually between those 2
come in hither but with consent of the Dutch Therefore as soon as we came to an Anchor at the East end of the Island we sent our Boat ashore to the Governour to desire leave to wood water and cut a new Mizen-yard He granted our request and the Boat returned again aboard and brought word also that Mr Coventry touch'd here to water and went out that morning The next morning betimes Captain Minchin sent me ashore to cut a Yard I applyed my self to the Governour and desired one of his Souldiers might go with me and shew me the best Timber for that use but he excused himself saying that his Souldiers were all busie at present but that I might go and cut any Tree that I liked So I went into the Woods where I saw abundance of very fine strait Trees and cut down such an one as I thought fit for my turn and cutting it of a just length and stripping off the Bark I left it ready to be fetcht away and return'd to the Fort where I dined with the Governor Presently after dinner our Captain with Mr Richards and his Wife came ashore and I went aboard The Governor met them at landing and conducted them into the Dining Room I spoke of where they treated the Governor with Punch made of Brandy Sugar and Lime-juice which they brought with them from aboard for here is nothing not so much as the Governors drink but what is brought from Malacca no Herbs or Fruit growing here but all is either fetcht from Malacca or is brought by the Malayans from the main It is not through any sterility in the Soyl for that is very fat and fruitful neither is it through laziness of the Dutch for that is a Vice they are not guilty of but it is from a continual fear of the Malayans with whom tho they have a Commerce yet dare they not trust them so far as to be ranging about the Island in any work of Husbandry or indeed to go far from the Fort for there only they are safe But to return to the Governour he to retalliate the Captains and Mr Richards's kindness sent a Boat a fishing to get some better entertaintainment for his Guests than the Fort yielded at present About 4 or 5 a Clock the Boat returned with a good dish of Fish These were immediately drest for Supper and the Boat was sent out again to get more for Mr Richards and his Lady to carry aboard with them In the mean time the Food was brought into the Dining Room and placed on the Table The Dishes and Plates were of Silver and there was a Silver Punch Bowl full of Liquor The Governour his Guests and some of his Officers were seated but just as they began to fall to one of the Souldiers cried out Malayans and spoil'd the entertainment for immediately the Governor without speaking one word leapt out of one of the Windows to get as soon as he could to the Fort. His Officers followed and all the Servants that attended were soon in motion Every one of them took the nearest way some out of the Windows others out of the Doors leaving the 3 guests by themselves who soon followed with all the haste they could make without knowing the meaning of this sudden consternation of the Governor and his people But by that time the Capt. and Mr Richards and his Wife were got to the Fort the Governour who was arrived before stood at the door to receive them As soon as they were entered the Fort the door was shut all the Souldiers and Servants being within already nor was any man suffered to fetch away the Victuals or any of the Plate but they fired several Guns to give notice to the Malayans that they were ready for them but none of them came on For this uproar was occasioned by a Malayan Canoa full of armed men that lay skulking under the Island close by the shore and when the Dutch Boat went out the second time to fish the Malayans set on them suddenly and unexpected with their Cressets and Lances and killing one or two the rest leapt over-board and got away for they were close by the shore and they having no Arms were not able to have made any resistance It was about a mile from the Fort and being landed every one of them made what haste he could to the Fort and the first that arrived was he who cried in that manner and frighted the Governour from Supper Our Boat was at this time ashore for water and was filling it in a small brook by the Banquetting-house I know not whether our Boats crew took notice of the Alarm but the Dutch call'd to them and bid them make haste aboard which they did and this made us keep good watch all night having all our Guns loaden and primed for service But it rained so hard all the night that I did not much fear being attacked by any Malayans being informed by one of our Sea-men whom we took in at Malacca that the Malayans seldom or never make any attack when it rains It is what I had before observed of other Indians both East and West and tho then they might make their attacks with the greatest advantage on men armed with Hand Guns yet I never knew it practised at which I have wondered for 't is then that we most fear them and they might be then most successful because their Arms which are usually Lances and Cressets which these Malayans had could not be damaged by the rain as our Guns would be But they cannot endure to be in the rain and 't was in the evening before the Rain fell that they assaulted the Dutch Boat The next morning the Dutch Sloop weighed and went to look after the Malayans but having sailed about the Island and seeing no Enemies they anchored again I also sent men ashore in our Boat to bring off the Mizan-yard that I had cut the day before but it was so heavy a kind of Timber that they could not bring it out of the Woods Captain Minchin was still ashore and he being acquainted with it desired the Governour to send a Souldier to shew our men what Trees were best for our use which he did and they presently cut a small Tree about the bigness and length of that which I cut and brought it aboard I immediately went to work and having fitted it for use bent my Sail and hoysed it up in its place In the Evening Captain Minchin and Mr Richards and his Wife came aboard having staid one night at the Fort and told me all that happened to them ashore We now waited only for a Land Wind to carry us out The former part of the night we had much Rain with Thunder and Lightning but no Wind. At one a clock we had a small Land Wind and got up our Anchors We got out before day clear of the Island and we steered along shore to the North ward intending to keep this shore
and then Landing walk'd one Mile through the Woods before we came into the Savannah and marched about 2 Miles in it before we came up with any Game Here I gave my Companions the slip and wandred so far into the Woods that I lost my self neither could I find the way into the open Savannah but instead of that ran directly from it through small Spots of Savannahs and Skirts of Woods This was sometime in May and it was between ten a Clock and one when I began to find that I was as we call it 〈◊〉 suppose from the Spaniards Morooned or Lost and quite out of the Hearing of my Comrades Guns I was somewhat surprized at this but however 〈◊〉 knew I should find my way out as soon as the Suâ—… was a little lower So I sat down to rest my self resolving however to run no farther out of my way for the Sun being so near the Zenith I could not distinguish how to direct my Course Being wearâ—… and almost faint for want of Water I was forced to have recourse to the wild Pines and was by them supplied or else I must have perish'd with Thirst. About three a Clock I went due North aâ—… near as I could judge for the Savannah lay East and West and I was on the South side of it At Sun-set I got out into the clear open Savannah being about two Leagues wide in most Places but how long I know not It is well stored with Bullocks but by frequent Hunting they grow shy and remove farther up into the Country Here 〈◊〉 found my self four or five Mile to the West 〈◊〉 the Place where I stragled from my Companions I made homewards with all the speed I could but being overtaken by the Night I lay down on the Grass a good distance from the Woods for the benefit of the Wind to keep the Muskitoes from me but in vain for in less than an Hours time I was so persecuted that though I endeavoured to keep them off by Fanning my self with Boughs and shifting my Quarters 3 or 4 times yet still they haunted me so that I could get no sleep A Day break I got up and directed my Course to thâ—… Creek where we landed from which I was theâ—… about two Leagues I did not see one Beast of any sort whatever in all the way though the day before I saw several Young Calves that could not follow their Dams but even these were now gone away to my great Vexation and Disappointment for I was very hungry But about a Mile farther I spied ten or twelve Quams perching on the Boughs of a Cotton-Tree These were not shy therefore I got well enough under them and having a single Bullet but no Shot about me fired at one of them but miss'd it though I had before often kill'd them so Then I came up with and fired at 5 or 6 Turkies but with no better success So that I was forced to march forward still in the Savannah toward the Creek and when I came to the Path that led to it through the Woods I found to my great Joy a Hat stuck upon a Pole and when I came to the Creek I found another These were set up by my Consorts who were gone home in the Evening as Signals that they would come and fetch me Therefore I sat down and waited for them for although I had then not above three Leagues home by Water yet it would have been very difficult if not impossible for me to have got thither over Land by reason of those vast unpassable Thickets abounding every where along the Creeks side wherein I have known some puzzled for two or three days and have not advanced half a Mile though they laboured extreamly every day Neither was I disappointed of my hopes for within half an Hour after my arrival at the Creek my Consorts came bringing every Man his Bottle of Water and his Gun both to hunt for Game and to give me notice by Firing that I might hear them for I have known several Men lost in the like manner and never heard of afterwards Such an Accident befel one Captain Hall of New-England who came hither in a Boston Ship to take in Logwood and was fraighted by two Scotch-men and one Mr. W. Cane an Irish-man who designing to go with Goods from Jamaica to New-England for that reason when his Logwood was aboard tarried at Trist with the Ship and hunted once in 2 or three Days for Beef to lengthen out his Salt-Provision One Morning the Captain designing to Hunt took five of his Men with his Mate as also his Merchant Mr. Cane along with him They Landed at the East end of the Island which is low Mangrove-land the Savannah is a considerable distance from the Sea and therefore troublesom to get to it However unless they would row four or five Leagues farther they could not find a more convenient place beside they doubted not of Mr. Canes skill to conduct them After they had followed him a Mile or two into the Woods the Captain seeing him to make a Halt as being in some doubt to consider of the way told him in derision that he was but a sorry Woodsman and that he would swing him but twice round and he should not guess the way out again and saying no more to him went forwards and bid his Seamen follow him which they did accordingly Mr. Cane after he had recollected himself struck off another way and desired them to go with him But instead of that they were all for following the Captain In a short time Mr. Cane got out of the Woods into the Savannah and there kill'd a good fat Cow and quartering it made it fit for Carriage supposing the Captain and Crew would soon be with him But after waiting 3 or 4 hours and firing his Gun several times without hearing any Answer took up his Burden and returned towards the Sea-side and upon giving a Signal a Boat came and brought him aboard In the mean time the Captain and his Men after 4 or 5 Hours ranging the Woods began to grow fired then his Mate hastily trusting more to his own Judgment left him and the four Seamen and about four or five a Clock being almost spent with Thirst got out of the Woods to the Sea shore and as weak as he was fired his Gun for the Boat to fetch him which was immediately done When he came Aboard he gave an Account whereabout and in what a condition he left the Captain and his Men but it being then too late to seek him the next Morning very early Mr. Cane and two Seamen taking Directions from the Mate who was so fatigued that he could not stir where he had left the Captain went ashore and at length came within call of him and at last found him layd down in a Thicket having just sense to call out sometimes but not strength enough to stand so they were forced to carry him to the Sea-side
the S. E. end of the Island Mindanao we saw two small Islands about 3 leagues distant from it We might have passed between them and the main Island as we learnt since but not knowing them nor what dangers we might encounter there we chose rather to sail to the Eastward of them But meeting very strong Westerly Winds we got nothing forward in many days In this time we first saw the Islands Meangis which are about 16 leagues distant from the Mindanao bearing S. E. I shall have occasion to speak more of them hereafter The 4th day of July we got into a deep Bay 4 leagues N. W. from the two small Islands before mentioned But the night before in a violent Tornado our Bark being unable to beat any longer bore away which put us in some pain for fear she was overset as we had like to have been our selves We anchored on the South West side of the Bay in 15 fathom Water about a Cables length from the shore Here we were forced to shelter our selves from the violence of the Weather which was so boisterous with Rains and Tornadoes and a strong Westerly Wind that we were very glad to find this place to anchor in being the only shelter on this side from the West Winds This Bay is not above two mile wide at the mouth but farther in it is 3 leagues wide and 7 leagues deep running in N. N. W. There is a good depth of Water about 4 or 5 leagues in but rocky foul ground for above 2 leagues in from the mouth on both sides of the Bay except only in that place where we lay About 3 leagues in from the mouth on the Eastern side there are fair sandy Bays and very good anchoring in 4 5 and 6 fathom The Land on the East side is high mountainous and woody yet very well watered with small Brooks and there is one River large enough for Canoas to enter On the West side of the Bay the Land is of a mean heighth with a large Savannah bordering on the Sea and stretching from the mouth of the Bay a great way to the Westward This Savannah abounds with long Grass and it is plentifully stock'd with Deer The adjacent Woods are a covert for them in the heat of the day but mornings and evenings they feed in the open Plains as thick as in our Parks in England I never saw any where such plenty of wild Deer tho I have met with them in several parts of America both in the North and South Seas The Deer live here pretty peaceably and unmolested for there are no Inhabitants on that side of the Bay We visited this Savannah every morning and killed as many Deer as we pleased sometimes 16 or 18 in a day and we did eat nothing but Venison all the time we staid here We saw a great many Plantations by the sides of the Mountains on the East side of the Bay and we went to one of them in hopes to learn of the Inhabitants whereabouts the City was that we might not over-sail it in the night but they fled from us We lay here till the 12th day before the Winds abated of their fury and then we sailed from hence directing our course to the Westward In the morning we had a Land Wind at North. At 11 a clock the Sea breeze came at West just in our Teeth but it being fair weather we kept on our way turning and taking the advantage of the Land breezes by night and the Sea breezes by day Being now past the S. E. part of the Island we coasted down on the South side and we saw abundance of Canoas a fishing and now and then a small Village Neither were these Inhabitants afraid of us as the former but came aboard yet we could not understand them nor they us but by signs and when we mentioned the word Mindanao they would point towards it The 18th day of July we arrived before the River of Mindanao the mouth of which lies in lat 6 d. 22 m. No. and is laid in 231 d. 12 m. Longitude West from the Lizard in England We anchored right against the River in 15 fathom water clear hard Sand about 2 miles from the shore and 3 or 4 miles from a small Island that lay without us to the Southward We fired 7 or 9 Guns I remember not well which and were answered again with 3 from the shore for which we gave one again Immediately after our coming to an anchor Raja Laut and one of the Sultans Sons came off in a Canoa being rowed with 10 Oars and demanded in Spanish what we were and from whence we came Mr. Smith he who was taken Prisoner at Leon in Mexico answered in the same Language that we were English and that we had been a great while out of England They told us that we were welcom and asked us a great many questions about England especially concerning our East India Merchants and whether we were sent by them to settle a Factory here Mr. Smith told them that we came hither only to buy provision They seemed a little discontented when they understood that we were not come to settle among them for they had heard of our arrival on the East side of the Island a great while before and entertained hopes that we were sent purposely out of England hither to settle a trade with them which it should seem they are very desirous of For Captain Goodlud had been here not long before to treat with them about it and when he went away told them as they said that in a short time they might expect an Ambassadour from England to make a full bargain with them Indeed upon mature thoughts I should think we could not have done better than to have complied with the desire they seemed to have of our settling here and to have taken up our quarters among them For as thereby we might better have consulted our own profit and satisfaction than by the other loose roving way of life so it might probably have proved of publick benefit to our Nation and been a means of introducing an English Settlement and Trade not only here but through several of the Spice-Islands which lye in its neighbourhood For the Islands Meangis which I mentioned in the beginning of this Chapter lye within 20 leagues of Mindanao These are 3 small Islands that abound with Gold and Cloves if I may credit my Author Prince Jeoly who was born on one of them and was at this time a Slave in the City of Mindanao He might have been purchased by us of his Master for a small matter as he was afterwards by Mr. Moody who came hither to Trade and laded a Ship with Clove Bark and by transporting him home to his own Country we might have gotten a Trade there But of Prince Jeoly I shall speak more hereafter These Islands are as yet probably unknown to the Dutch who as I said before indeavour to ingross all