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A57948 The present state of the Morea, called anciently, Peloponnesus which hath been near two hundred years under the dominion of the Turks, and is now very much depopulated : together with a description of the city of Athens, islands of Zant, Strafades, and Serigo / faithfully described by Bernard Randolph, who resided in those parts from 1671 to 1679. Randolph, Bernard, b. 1643. 1686 (1686) Wing R235; ESTC R13431 15,138 30

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is a small Town where Sir Henry Hide who was sometime Consul for the English Nation in the Morea lived in great State built a small Church and a fair House with many Gardens and Vine-yards about it The Church remains entire The Scituation is very pleasant and was by the Venetians called Bel videre ARCADIA formerly called CYPARISSA Stands in a Great Bay about a Mile from the Sea The Castle and Town stand on scragged Rocks under high Mountains The Castle is much out of repair nor can it be made strong to resist any Enemy the Mountains so overlooking it Before it is a pleasant Plain along the Sea side It has no Harbour for Shipping so that they carry their Oyl and other Merchandize to Navareene In time of Peace with the Venetians they carry them to Zante The Town is small and not much inhabited NAVAREENE formerly called PYLVS Has the best Harbour in all the Morea It is about five Miles long and three broad having an Island lying before it called Spactoria Formerly there where two Entrances into the Harbour but in the Year 1571 when the Christians obtained the great Victory over the Turks before the Gulph of Lepanto the Turks having several Ships and Gallies in the Harbour and fearing the Christians would come in and destroy them stopped up the Entrance to the West of the Island so as only small Boats can now pass and built a very strong Castle to the Eastward called New Navareene which is very well built and commands the Entrance It has about Forty Guns which are most towards the Sea The Land to the South East lies high To the west end of the Harbour stands Old Navareene formerly called Pylus on a high Hill very steep the Walls are very much out of repair great part being fallen down there are very few Inhabitants in it It might be made impregnable no hills being near it I cannot say whether they have any Guns in it This place in other Maps is put down above 20 Miles from the Sea and the Island of Spactoria which makes the Harbour left out MODON Is a very strong Castle which stands on a low Point of Land The Sea washeth the Foundations of the Walls above three Quarters round the Walls are very high The Port is to the Eastward it hath a small Mole to contain two or three Gallies the Port is not secure for Ships South West Winds having too great Power here To the South lies the Island of Sapienza about two Miles from the Point of the Castle To command the Passage a round Tower is built which hath several great Guns that lye equal with the Water Towards the Land by the Port is a dry Ditch five Yards deep and about twenty Yards broad between which and the main Castle is a very strong Battery of about ten Guns There is a dry Ditch and Draw-bridges to pass into the Body of the Castle To the North West is another Battery to secure that Mount where are very good Guns On the Walls towards the Port are three Towers in each of which are small Guns in all they say here are about One hundred Guns The Town stands about half a Mile from the Castle being inhabited by Greeks In the Port is a small Island on which a Battery might be raised and do much harm to the Castle it being as high as the Walls The Castle is above a Mile about CORON Is scituated on a Point of Land which runs out about half a Mile It is much higher towards the Land then at the Point The Sea goes two Thirds about it The Walls are high and their Foundations on scraggy Rocks The Fortification is in much better repair than at Modon Towards the Land the Walls are above Forty Foot high and here is a round Tower above Sixty Foot high in which are several very good Guns to answer the Land which runs higher than the Walls At the Southward part of the Castle the Land goes sloping down towards the Sea side from the Walls of the Castle the ground is not Rocky in that part There are about seventy good Guns about the Wall and several of the Works are Arch'd over To the North is a round Tower which stands low to command the Road. Here is no Harbour for Gallies nor is the Road very secure It had formerly a good Mole which is now sunk which with other Ruines has so choak'd up the harbour that most buoy up their Cables with Cask to keep them from ground CALAMATA formerly called THVRIVM Is at the bottom of the Bay of Coron about a Mile from the Sea The Castle is but small The Town is near a Mile in Circumference well Peopled standing on a rising Ground To the West is a very large and fertile Plain in which are many Greek Villages and two small Towns the one called Cochiuk Magna the other Niscia The latter is most small Islands which little Rivers make Niscia signifying Islands in the Vulgar Greek The Plain about Calamata towards the Sea is all planted with Vineyards Olive Figg and Mulberry-trees On the West part of the Bay by the Sea side are the Ruines of Old Messina which the Lacedemonians besieged with a powerful Army The Messineses seeing they were not able to withstand their Enemies Power fired their City imbarked themselves and went to Sicilia where they built the present City of Messina MESITHA formerly called LACEDEMON Is scituated at the side of a large Plain on a rising Ground about twenty five Miles from the Sea side having very high Mountains all to the West of the Plain The Castle stands to the West on a very high Hill steep on the West and South part where it is inaccessable but sloping to the North having two old Walls which cross the Hill from the North to the South dividing the Hill almost into three Parts The way into the Castle is very difficult The Walls of the Castle are well built but very old It is near half a Mile about having two Gates to be pass'd The Town is large and is esteemed the second for bigness in all the Morea yet Patrass hath more houses The Ruines about it are very great and towards the South they reach above four Miles having in some places the Foundation of a thick Wall which they say was the Walls of Sparta To the North about a Quarter of a Mile from the Town is a great and high Building which they say was an Arch of an Aquaeduct The Plain is very pleasant full of small Villages Olive and Mulberry trees This Place and Calamata make more Silk than all the other parts of the Morea The River which runs through the Plain is now called Vasili Pottamo In Winter it spreads very large but in Summer towards the City is almost dry Tho' the City stands remote from the Sea and free from dangers that ensue from thence yet the Manjotts are a People apt to prey upon them MAINA which some write BRAZZO di
in Vineyards The Vine-yards are planted most betwixt the City and the Sea The City is now not above Three Miles about Being Four Miles from Porto Lion which formerly was call Pirea having a Castle to the South The Houses are better built here than in any part of the Morea most having little Courts with high Walls in which are Arches with Marble Pillars few Houses above Two Story high They also patcht up with the Ruines of old Palaces and in most Walls are abundance of old Inscriptions The Governors are in the same manner as they be in other Cities under the Turks The Greeks live much better here than in any other part of Turky Scio excepted being a small Common-wealth amongst themselves They choose eight Magistrates who adjust all differences and appear in all Publick Matters Their Protector at the Port is the Grand Seigniors Chief Eunuch who hath the disposing of that Government The City is not Walled about but has Gates at the Streets end which every Night are shut to keep out Privateers who often Land and do much mischief Here is an Arch-Bishop whose House stands to the South West of the Town near unto the Mount Ariopagus He lives in great esteem amongst them Below his Palace towards the North stands intire the Temple of Theseus which is a fair and large Building all of White Marble having a Portico about it with Pillars The Temple is Seventy Three Foot long and Twenty Six in Breadth The Length of the Portico which goes round it is One Hundred Twenty Three Foot It is now a Greek Church and Dedicated to St. George To the South East part of the Castle are Seventeen Marble Pillars being the remainder of One Hundred and Twenty on which the Emperor Adrian had his Palace And upon some of the Pillars which stand towards the East is to be seen part of the Foundation These Pillars are of a pure White Marble with blewish Waves Schollop-work being Fifty Foot in heighth and Nineteen and a half round The Ground is very even about them which they say was formerly Paved with Marble Close to these Pillars Eastward is a square Piece of Ground which is Walled in with a low Wall being Green It is kept very smooth and free of Stones at the South End close to the Wall is a place raised with Two Steps about Two Foot high almost in Form of a Throne In the time of their Byram the Turks come to this place where their Emam or Priest sitting on the raised place Preacheth to them shewing them the Vanity of the World the Greatness of their Emperour and the Valour of the Ottoman Forces concluding with a Prayer for the Grand Seignior which is answered with Three Shouts from the Auditors with a loud Voice crying Amen The Castle stands on a Rock which is high and steep having but one way up and three Gates to pass through into the Body of it The Walls are much out of repair The Scituation makes it strong This Castle stood almost in the middle of Old Athens The Place most worth Observation in it is the Temple of Minerva which remains entire being esteemed by all who have seen it to be one of the Most Glorious Buildings in Europe It is all pure White Marble The Length of the Body of the Temple is One Hundred Sixty Eight English Feet and the Breadth Seventy One There are Seventeen Pillars at each Side and Eight at the Front The Circuit of the Pillars are Nineteen Foot and a Half The Length of the whole Temple Two Hundred and Thirty Feet The Temple is very dark having only some Lights to the Eastward The Greeks did Consecrate and Dedicated it to the Blessed Virgin Since that the Turks have perverted it with their Worship The Turks have White-wash'd the Inside notwithstanding it is all of pure Marble In and about Athens are Two Hundred Greek Churches most of which have been Temples but not one quarter of them are now used In the Plain and on most of the Hills there are many small Chappels The Ruines are above Six Miles about of which the Reader may have full satisfaction by reading the Travels of Sir George Wheeler who hath given a large and true Account of this City Some Geographers call it Settines which name was never known to the Inhabitants the Turks call it Atinna and the Greeks Athine The Air is very good The Soyl rich It hath a River to the South close by the Ruines of Adrians Palace called Illisus or Calleroy which is almost choaked up and in Summer is dry The Harbour of Porto Lione is very secure from the danger of any Wind but there is no Fortification so that it is frequented by Pyrats In all the Villages and Country about Athens the Inhabitants are most Albaneses and they are here more populous than in the Morea It affords the same Commodities and all Provision is as reasonable but their Wines in general are not so good The Island of ZANT formerly called ZACYNTHVS Is under the Venetians lying about 15 miles from the South West point of the Morea The West part is all Mountains and to the North East is another Mountain called Scopo between which it is very low land so as from the Southward at Sea it appears to be two Islands The chief Road hath the name of the Island The Town stretcheth it self above a mile along that Bay it is well built with Free-stone but the Houses are low by reason of the Earth-quakes which are very frequent To the West over the Town stands the Castle on a high and steep Hill and is a small City in it self The Wall is above a mile about The Governour is a Noble-man of Venice There is an Italian Bishop and three Italian Churches But the Greeks who are the chief Inhabitants have a Proto Papa and all Festivals are observed according to the old stile In the Island is above 30 Villages and more than 60000 Souls The Corn which grows here will not suffice above three months but in time of Peace with the Turks they are well supplied from the Morea and in time of War Corn is brought from Apuglia and other parts in the Gulph of Venice One year with another it produceth near 10000 Tun of Wine 200 Tun of Oyl and 2000 Tun of Currants and may be compared for pleasantness and richness with any Island of its bigness in the World The Currants grow on Vines and spread themselves on the ground like other Grapes In July they gather them and spread them on a very smooth part of ground where they lye until they are well dry'd then they fall off from the Stalks so are carry'd and put into Ware-houses where they are kept till the Merchants buy them STRAFADA Islands They are two small Islands which lye about 20 miles from Zant and 30 from the Morea On the bigger is a Monastery well built which hath a high Tower There is about 40 Priests of the Order of St. Basil They work the ground and have all sorts of Fruits and Sallating but their supply of Bread Oyl and Wine is brought them from Zant where they have possessions They never eat Flesh When any Pyrats come to molest them they shut themselves up in the Tower of the Monastery There is no Harbour for Ships so as seldom any come to trouble them PRODINO and SAPIENZA Islands Are not Inhabited but afford secure Harbours for Shipping especially the latter where the Venetians often lye to look out for Pyrats of Barbary who use to cruise about Navareene and Modon SERIGO formerly called CYTHERA Is under the Venetians and withstood the Turks Forces which Landed there several times the Inhabitants who are Greeks retired to the Castle which is strong yet the Turks might have taken it but thought it not worth the loss of his men there being no good Harbour for Shipping nor is the Land fruitful being most Stony The Governour is a Noble-man of Venice FINIS