the Siege whose parts I shall briefly expound and every one distinctly by it self CHAP. XIX Of Circumvallation CIrcumvallation consists in Camps Trenches and works of all sorts The very Camps also being a lesser kind of Circumvallaiion doe comprehend the two last to wit Trenches and varietie of Works PROP. I. The disposing of the Camp or Quarters 1. THe Camp is to be form'd in those places that seem most convenient to let in an External Enemy 2. It must not be made in a place that may be drowned 3. Let there be so many that relief may be readily sent from them to all parts of the Circumvallation 4. Let them be above Cannon shot from the Town or at least so far off as that they may fear little dammage from their Guns 5. Let them be placed if you can by a River side 6. The Camp as likewise all the rest of the Circumvallation must be fortified with Trenches that is with a Rampar round about it and several other works PROP. II. Of the Lines commonly called Trenches THese Lines of the Siege are a continual kind of Rampar which surround as wel the Camp as all the rest of the places about the Town besieged Concerning these Observe this 1. Let them be twofold one inward built against the besieg'd to keep them in least with their Sallies they hurt the Besiegers the other outward to keep off any enemy that should attacque the Camp from without Let the outward be stronger than the inward nay when there is but a small Garrison in the Town these inward ones may be spared or at least very slightly built 2. These Trenches especially the outward one must not be extended above 750 feet upon a right Line After every 750 feet they must be fortified with several works cast before and betwixt them These are wont to be used Redoubts or little Turrets Middle or toothed defences outward and inward Angles Little Tonges Stars square Forts with whole Bulworks various Forts with half Bulworks whole plain Bulworks and half ones Ravelins half moons Hornworks Crownworks All this Trade of Works so various and so manifold was used in no time more than in our age nor in no place oftner than in Holland at the Siege of Hartogen Bosch at both the Sieges of Breda Mastricht and many others most of those are already delivered in the foregoing propositions we will expound those that remain in the following 3. The Profiles and Ichnography of these Trenches is various in respect of their place and danger I 'le give you three sorts of them used at the siege of Hartogen Bosch The Base of the Brestwork 7½ 7. The outward Sloap or Talu 2½ 3. The inward Sloap 1. 1. The inward height 6. 6. The outward height 5. 5. The upper part 4. 3. The width of the Step. 3. 3. The heighth of the Step. ½ ½ The Border or footing on the outside 3. 3. The width of the Ditch 12. 8. The outward Talu or Sloap of the Ditch 4. 2. The inward Sloap of the Ditch 4. 2. The depth of the Ditch 5. 2. The width at the bottom of the Ditch 4. 4. At the coming of the Royal Army the Dutch made their Circumvallation stronger they increas'd the Base of their Brestwork to 9 feet making three Steps whose widths added together made 9 feet the height of the brestwork was likewise 9 feet the width of the Ditch was 15 feet PROP. III. To build a Redoubt or Turret IT is a most easie thing since their form is simply square Therefore describe on the earth a Line of 48 feet and on it delineate a square and what you require is done The Ichnographie and Profile is after this manner It s Base 14. or 20. It s width a top 4. or 6. It s height 8. or 10. It s border or footing 2. or 3. The width of its Ditch 15. or 24. The depth of the Ditch 5. or 6. There is usually added to the Brestwork two or three Steps gradually placed over one another PROP. IV. To delineate a Star Fig. 35. To delineate a quadrangular one work after this manner 1. DEscribe on the field a Line of 48 or 50 feet and on it describe a square 2. Bisect the side A B in C and from C raise the perpendicular C D equal to ¼ of A C or 1 ◠of the whole A B. 3. Joyn A D D B if this construction be made round all the sides you 'l have a quadrangular Star Fig. 36. To have a Pentagonal Star work after this manner Describe a Regular Pentagon and from the side A B bisected in C raise the perpendicle C D equal to ⅓ of A C or ⅙ of A B. Joyn A D D B and if you do the same round the figure you will have a Pentagonal Star For a Sexangular one Describe A C E c. a Regular Hexagon Fig. X. let each of its sides A C c. be equal to about 104 paces at the ends of C H c. make the Angles D A C D C A c. 30 degrees each And D A D C will be each about 60 paces Their Ichnographie and Profiles are the same as that of Redoubts Your larger Stars are not in use PROP. V. To delineate a square Fort with half-Bulworks 1. DEscribe the square A B C D whose sides must not be less than 120 feet Fig. 37. nor more than 180. 2. Trisect the sides in E F L M Q S T V. 3. To each of the sides add ⅓ B I DN C O A H but for the Neck-lines take ⅓ in the sides themselves to wit BL D Q C T A E. 4. From the ends of the Neck-lines raise the perpendicular LK QR TX EG each of which must be ⅙ of the side 5. Draw the right lines I K N R O X H G. So have you a Fort with four half-Bulworks PROP. VI. To delineate a Fort on a Rectangular Paralellogram with half-Bulworks 1. TRisect one of the lesser sides A B Fig. 38. and cut off 1 ◠of it from all the sides for the Neck-lines A F BG C O D Q. 2. Add also to each of the sides A K B L CP DS equal to 1 ◠of A B. 3. On the ends of the Neck-lines raise the perpendicles F I G M O N Q R equal to ⅙ of the same A B. 4. Joyn K I LM PN SR I say 't is done PROP. VII To delineate another sort of Quadrilateral Fort with half Bulworks and double Tonges 1. TAke the third part of the sides of the square A B C D Fig. 39. for the Neck-lines CP A M BN RD 2. Add to the side C D on both sides ⅓ C I D K but to the sides C A D B likewise add ⅓ A S B T. 3. From the ends of the Neck-lines raise perpendicles equal to ⅙ P X M L N V R Z and joyn I X S L. T V K Z. 4. Bisect the side C D in E and
deducted from D F the distance between the second and fourth there remains H F your Divisor which measured I admit 50 Halberds lengths the distance between G E 30 Halberds lengths the space between D F 100 Halberds length now 100 multiplyed in 30 produceth 3000 which divided by 50 leaveth in the Quotient 60. I conclude therefore the distance between A and B to be 60 Pikes lengths This one thing is to be taken notice of especially that whatsoever you mete the space G E withall that you use the same in measuring H F and as for D F it matters not what you measure it withall for your Quotient shall bear the same denomination Preciseness is to be used in placing of your Triangle and in measuring E G and H F otherwise error may ensue especially if D F be but a small distance and the Angle at B very sharp There needeth in this matter no further admonition small Practice will resolve all doubts CHAP. IX To measure the distance between any two Forts Castles or other places howsoever they be scituated though there be Rivers or such like Impediments between that you cannot approach nigh any of them and that without an Instrument also LEt your Angles as before hath been said be prepared of any three Staves c. you shall first at pleasure set up one Staff and applying thereunto your Angle in such sort that the one containing side lye directly to one of the Marks which here for distinction sake I will call the first go backwards too and fro until you find your second Mark precisely covered with your Staff noting what part of the line or side subtending the Angle it cuts by your line visual and there make a fine notch or mark upon that subtending Staff which done you shall go sidewise from the first erected Staff as the other containing side of your Triangle will direct you so far as you list and then set up your second Staff yet pass on from thence in a right line with that containing side of your Angle that riseth from your Staves and cometh somewhat toward the Mark and go so far until you spy your self justly between your third Staff and your first mark there set up your fourth Staff then resort to your Angle again and standing behind the second Staff note whether a right line from the Angle to that notch before made on the subtendent Staff or side of the Triangle will direct you for that way precisely shall you go on until you come in a right line with the second and third Staff and erect there the fifth Staff this done measure the distance between the second and third Staff reserving that for a Divisor then multiply your distance between the first and third Staff by the distance between the fourth and fifth Staff the product divide by your reserved Divisor and it yieldeth in the Quotient the true distance between the two marks Example Let A B be the distance I would know C my first Station where the first Staff is erected I my Triangle made of three Staves and placed at the Station and directed with one of the containing sides to A which is the first mark as you may see in the Figure and with the other side to D and E the second and third Staves H is the notch or mark upon the side subtended to the Angle where the line visual from ☽ passeth to the second mark B my Triangle now I scituate at D as it was before at C the one contained side lying even with the erected Staves the other directed to my fourth Staff F placed in a right line with E the third Staff and A the first mark Again my line visual proceeding from D to H the notch in the subtended side of the Angle is extended to my fifth Staff G scituated exactly between E the third Staff and B the other mark This done I measure the distance between my second and third Staff finding it 20 foot likewise between the fourth and fifth Staff and find it 72 foot finally between the first and third Staff 65 paces so that according to the Rule before given multiplying 65 by 72 I have 4680. which divided by 20 yieldeth in the Quotient 234 and so many paces is there between A and B. I have not set out the Figures in just proportions answering to these numbers for that is not requisite but in such form as may best open and make manifest the scituation of the Staves and Triangle wherein consists all the difficulty of this Practice CHAP. X. How you may readily find out the distance to any Tower Castle Forts c. by help of the former Quadrant LEt the Quadrant be made upon a square Board as is there marked A D B Q. Let D B be divided into 90 Degrees or equal parts and instead of the 12 equal parts or right and contrary shadows g m and h m let the two sides D Q and B Q be divided each into 1200 equal parts or as many as you please and marked from the Center A and have a Ruler or Index to be moved round upon the Center A having two sights upon it set just upon the feducial line of the Index and let it be divided into such equal parts as the Lymb B Q or D Q. Let this Instrument thus fitted be handsomly placed upon its Staff or otherwise lay the feducial of your Index upon the beginning of the Degrees of the Quadrant and turn your whole Instrument the Index not moved till you may espy through the sight your mark then remove your Index to the contrary side of the Quadrant placing the line feducial on the side line where the degrees end and look through the sights and in that very line set up a mark a certain distance the farther the better this done take away your Instrument and set up a Staff there and remove the Instrument to the mark you espyed set your Index on the beginning of the Degrees moving your whole Instrument till you find through the Sights the Staff at the first Station then remove your Index your Quadrant keeping its place till you may again espy through the Sights your mark which done note the Degrees cut by the line feducial and then work thus upon some even smooth Superficies whether it be Board Plate or Paper Draw first a streight line and open your Compasses to some small distance call that space a score and make so many such divisions upon your Line as there is scores between your Stations then upon the end of your line raise a perpendicular and fixing one foot of your Compasses at the other end opening it to what wideness you please draw an Arch rising from the same line that represents your Stationary distance and dividing it into 90 equal parts or Degrees as you was taught in the making your Quadrant extend from the Center to the number of Degrees cut by your feducial line a right line until it concur with
is known and T 3 is also known or C F and F λ is known therefore C λ or 9 Y is known and so is Y λ known then by the 4. lib. 6. Euclid as I 9 is to 9 Y so is Y λ to λ Z to which if you add one foot the whole base λ Z will be known The Perimeter of this Brestwork or the Lines of it surrounding the whole Fortification whether they be inward or outward must be drawn parallel to the Faces only so that they meet at a point opposite to the middle points of the Courtine and make outward Angles but if Ravelins are built before the Courtines the Brestwork is drawn about them but not about the Horn-works if any should be built IV. Whether it be expedient to make a Ditch about the Out-Brestwork Some affirm it and stand to it But they do not consider when they think to make this Brestwork stronger that they quite over-throw the end it was made for which was that the besieged might safely sally out upon the Enemy and in their return injoy a safe retreat both which will be hindred by a Ditch made about it Insomuch that if the Towns-men do not make it 't would seem fitter for the Enemy to make CHAP. XII An Orthographical Table of Regular Fortifications This Table is collected out of the doctrine of the four foregoing Chapters  Max. Med Min. Rhynland feet The breadth of the base of the Rampar A E. 84 72 60 The inward Talu or line forming the Sloap AB 18 6 14 The outward Talu E F. 9 8 7 The height of the Rampar B L. 18 16 14 The breadth on the top of the Rampar L 3. 57 48 39 The breadth of the base of the Brestwork 3 D 24 18 14 The inward Talu of the Brestwork D T. 1 1 1 The outward Talu of the Brestwork 32. 2 2 2 The inward height of the Brestwork T I. 6 6 6 The outward height of the Brestwork 2 K 4 4 4 The breadth of the top of the Brestwork K O. 21 15 11 The rest of the foregoing Table  Max. Med. Min. Rhynland feet The breadth of the step or Banquet D 4 3 3 3 The height of the step or Banquet 4 G 1 ½ 1 ⅓ 1 ⅕ The Terrepleine or Walk on the Rampar 4 L 30 27 22 The walk of the Fauss-br or chemin des Rondes E 5 21 17 15 The Fauss-bray with its Banquet    The border or bankside Lisier R S 6 6 6 The upper width of the Ditch S V 132 108 84 The outward inward Talu's of the ditch SH V 5 12 12 10 The depth of the Ditch H 8 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 12 12 10 The Width of the bottom of the ditch 87 108 184 64 The Covert way V X 21 17 15 Its step or banquet    The base of the out-brestwork λ Z 79 70 69 Its height 6 6 6 For the base of the Out-brestwork working according to the Rules deliver'd in the 11. Chap. num 3. I find it to be Max. Med. Min. 82. 75 ¼ 69. Therefore Dogen and Fritach are out in their account The first Column shews you the largest and strongest Orthography which is able to sustain the greatest force of the Besiegers The second is able to bear an indifferent Siege The third is made against the least strength which is usually sent against Towns But here we only treat of the Forts themselves I shall hereafter give you the Orthography of Castles and Out-works And again I had no proportion or respect to the diversity of the Figures or Polygons as many Engineers have who for no reason as I can tell give to a Pentagon a different Orthography from that which they give to a Hexagon or a Nonagon For a stronger or weaker Orthography is to be given a Fortification not as it hath more or less Angles or Bulworks but as it ought to resist a greater or less strength of an Enemy Note If the Fortification be made without a Fauss-bray the Out-brestwork will have another Base for it will be a fourth proportional to the three terms I 9 9 Y Y λ but the mean or middle term 9 Y will be less by the space E R if the Fauss-bray be wanting and then the base of the Brestwork λ Z will be max. med 65 50 CHAP. XIII Of the raising of Out-works A Fortification formed according to its essential parts is made stronger if it be surrounded with some Out-works The chief of which is a Raveline a Half-moon a Horn-work a Crown-work and Tongs I shall treat of each of them distinctly in the following propositions PROP. I. I. The definition and form of a Raveline or Target A Raveline is a Bulk of Earth almost like a Bulwork cut off Fig. 10. except that it wants flanques it is surrounded with water and separated from the Fortification by the breadth of the whole Ditch Such an one is F E G H in the 10th Figure its faces are F E G E. It wants as I said for the most part flanques yet it admits of them when it is built before Gates which then will be about 8 or 9 perches Towards the Enemy it is built with a Rampar and Brestwork and lies open towards the Fortification least it might shelter the Enemie when he hath possest it it is rais'd but a little height above the level of the ground that it may be better defended from the main Fortification and the plains the better scowred by it It s Angle must not be less than 60 degr nor more than a right Angle The length of the faces is determin'd in Regular Fortifications numb 3. If they are applyed to the covering of a Courtine that is above its just length observe this that the faces must not be longer than the faces of the Bulworks therefore they may be about 40 50 or 60 paces II. Concerning their place and how they are defended For the most part it is raised before Gates and Courtine but never before the Bulworks The 10th Figure shews the Situation of it as it lyes before a Courtine 't is best to have it of such a breadth as might cover the Courtine only and not the flanques for then 't is defended by the faces and flanques of the Bulworks that it lies betwixt III. The making of it Is various but this is most approved Fig. 10. Raise an infinite perpendicle from the middle point of the Courtine S from this Line on the other side of the Ditch cut off H E equal to ¾ or ⅔ or ½ of the Face then from the point E draw streight Lines either to the ends of the Courtine A B and this will be the best form for the Raveline for the whole Courtine is covered by the Raveline and the Raveline it self not only scowred and defended by the Faces but by the flanques of the Bulworks also or to some other point of the flanque or to the
ends of the flanque C D those parts of these strait lines F E G E cut off from the Bank-side of the Ditch towards E are the Faces of the Bulworks 1. Another way On the Centers A B the extream points of the Courtine with the distance of the same Courtine describe two Arches intersecting one another in E. 2. Produce the marginal lines of the Ditch φ 1 M L till they meet at the point H then from the ends of the flanques C D draw strait lines to the point E that may cut the marginal lines of the Ditch in F G and F E G H shall be the perfect delineation of the Raveline the faces are F E G E the Gorge Lines are F H G H. 1. Another way bisect the Gorge Lines of the Bulwork A R B Q in the points O P then draw strait lines from the points O P by the ends of the flanques C D till theâ—y meet one another in the point E. 2. Then produce the out-out-lines of the Ditch φ I M L till they meet in H and cut the former lines in F G so shall F E G H be the Ravelin required IV. The Orthographie and Ichnographie or the Profile and Plain This Table following shews the height and breadth of each part The third column shews the Orthographie of the Out-works of Breda The first and fourth shews the Orthographie of the largest The second and fifth of the middle size the sixth shews the least the four last Columns are taken out of Dogen This Table doth not serve only for Ravelins but for all manner of Out-works A Table for the building of Outworks Rhynland feet  Max. Med. Bred. Stab Min. st Temp. The lower breadth of the Ramp 40 36 44 36 24 20 The outward Talu of the Ramp 3 2 6 3 2 2 The inward Talu of the Ramp 6 4 8 6 4 4 The height of the Rampar 6 4 8 6 4 4 The upper thickness of the Ram. 31 30 30 27 18 14 The base of the Brestwork 15 15 16¼ 13 10 8 The outward Talu of the brestw 2 2 3¼ 2 2 2 The inward Talu of the Brestw 1 1 1 1 1 1 The outward height of the Brest 2 2 5 4 4 4 The inward height of the Brestw 6 6 6 6 6 6 The upper thickness of the Brest 15 12 12 10 7 5 The height of the step 1½ 1½ 1½ 1½ 1½ 1½ The breadth of the step 3 3 3 3 3 3 The Walk on the Ramp 12 10 10 1 â— 11 5 3 The rest of the foregoing Table Rhynland feet  Max. Med. Bred. Stab Min. st Temp. The border at the foot of the Ram. 3 3 6 3 3 2 The width of the Ditch 48 30 42 30 24 16 The outward Talu of the Ditch 10 8 7 8 6 4 The inward Talu of the Ditch 10 8 7 8 6 4 The depth of the Ditch 10 8 7 8 6 6 The width of the bottom of the D. 18 14 28 14 12 8 PROP. II. Of the Half-moon or Helmet I. Its definition and place HAlf-moons for the most part do not differ from Ravelins unless it be in bigness perhaps they had this name given them because those which are built before Bulworks are Arch'd in the form of a crescent on that side which lies towards the Bulwork They are placed upon the Covert-way which is beyond the Ditch so that their Capital line produced cuts the Courtine into two equal parts They are built also before the Angle of Bulworks as I said but the greatest use of them is in Irregular Fortification as I shall shew hereafter II. Their Form Let not their Angle be less then 60 degr nor more than 90 degr Let their height be but indifferent and not distant from the Rampar above Musquet-Shot that they may be defended by the Rampar When they are built on the Covert-way their faces must be 25 or 30 paces let the thickness of their Rampar be 15 or 20 feet and they must be so large as to receive 100 or 150 Souldiers III. Their Delineation 1. In the Angle of the Fauss-bray V as in a center with the distance of the breadth of the Ditch V M describe an Arch and produce the Capital line infinitely cutting the Arch in α. 2. On the other side of the Ditch cut off α X from the Capital Line produced which is â…” of the Face of the Bulwork and from the points H and λ where the Gorge lines of the Ravelins intersect one another draw unto λ the lines H X λ X. 3. Produce the faces of the Fauss-bray φ V φ V till they cut the lines H X λ X in 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and the Arch in 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 or the Fichant lines of the Fauss-bray continued on 2 V 3 V may determine these Intersections So have you a half-moon delineated placed before a Bulwork whose faces are X ζ X â— and its flanques but open are 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 The delineation of other half-moons is like that of Ravelins The Orthographie and Ichnographie is had out of the foregoing proposition Chap. XIII numb 4. IV. Its Vse and Conveniency 'T is the weakest of all the out-works since it cannot entertain a good quantity of Souldiers to defend it by reason of its straits and is also with more difficulty defended from the Fortification Therefore these half-moons seem to be hurtful to the Fortification unless they be arm'd with these cautions to wit that Ravelins be built on both sides and that they consist only of Faces being altogether without flanques otherwise being possest by the Enemie they cannot be hot from the Ravelins and at last let them be every where within Musquet-Shot Yet if all this were perform'd 't will be still doubtful whether they are useful or not Wherefore they seem not to be built without peculiar necessity PROP. III. Of the Horn-work I. Its Definition and Kinds Fig. 10. THat Outwork that runs farthest into the field with two strait sides objecting to the Enemy two half-Bulworks is called a Horn-work The tenth Figure shews an example of it There are three kinds of Horn-works the first hath its sides inclining to one another towards the Field the second towards the Fortification and the third's are parallel II. Its Place and Form They are built opposite to the Courtine or the Angle of the Bulwork beyond the Out-brestwork Yet they are better defended if they cover the Courtine than if the Bulwork especially if the sides are parallel For when they cover the Bulworks with parallel sides they receive no other defence than from the Courtine and that to little purpose since at so great a distance besides after this manner the work would be too narrow Yet if they are to be placed before Bulworks 't is altogether necessary the sides should incline to one another towards the Bulworks that so they may not take in all the faces but exclude some part of them from which they may be defended
Cylinder for Culverin three Diameters for the Saker three and a half Diameters and for lesser Pieces four Diameters of the Cylinder which length will also serve for the Cartredge SECT II. By the weight of Powder for any one Piece to find the weight of Powder proper to any other Piece of Ordnance To perform this work you must find by the foregoing Table the Cube of the Diameter of the bore of the Piece whose allowance of Powder you know also the Cube of the Diameter of the bore of the Piece whose allowance of Powder you desire to know Then say as the Cube of the known Piece is the quantity of Powder known so is the Cube of the Diameter of the unknown Piece to the quantity of Powder proper to the unknown Piece SECT III. Practical Experiments concerning the Allowance of Powder necessary to any Piece in time of Service It is always necessary to take care in time of Service of over-loading a Piece which Error many run into only minding the bore of a Piece and not minding whether the Metal will bear it and so endanger themselves and other standers by To avoid such errors observe these experienced Rules To a Demy-Cannon fortified of Brass about 4400 or a little more there is allowed by the Tower 5 ounces and a half of Powder to every hundred weight of Metal yet in time of Service Gunners do allow but 3 ounces ¾ to every hundred weight of Metal which doth amount to 10 l. ¼ Demy-Cannon Drake of Iron about 3800 l. is allowed by the Tower 3 ounces and a half of Powder to every hundred weight of Metal which will be durable in time of Service but there are Drakes of 4400 l. which must be allowed more according to the proportion of their weight Culverin fortified Brass of 4600 l. is allowed by the Tower 3 ounces and a half of powder compleat to every hundred weight of Metal which may be burnt in time of Service with very little abatement Culverin Drakes of 40000 l. or thereabouts of Iron for these Pieces may be allowed in time of Service 3 ounces to every hundred weight of metal but proportionably must be allowed for Pieces of greater or lesser weight The 12 Pounders fortified of Brass of 3200 l. for Guns of this weight and nature is usually allowed 3 ounces and a half for every hundred weight of Metal Demy-Culverin Brass of 3300 l. there is allowed by the Tower for Pieces of Ordnance of this nature 3 ounces and a half and somthing more to every hundred weight of Metal the which is approved a very sufficient Allowance Demy-Culverin Drakes of 2900 l. is allowed by most two ounces three quarters to each hundred weight of metal which will be durable in time of Service Saker fortified Brass of 2000 l. is allowed 3 ounces and somthing more for every hundred weight of Metal but there may be a small abatement in time of Service CHAP. XXVII To know whether a Piece of Ordnante be truly bored or no. YOu must provide a Pike-staff about a foot longer than the bore of the Piece and at the end thereof fasten a Rammer head that will just fill all the bore to the touch hole and at the other end of the staff you must bore a hole big enough to put through a Rod of Iron which must hang from the same and at the other end of the Rod must be made a weight about the bigness of a Saker Shot this is done to make the Pike-staff and Rammer head to lie with the same side upward when they are taken out of the Piece as they did when they were within the Piece then you must put your Instrument thus prepared into the Piece letting the Iron Ball that is at the end of the Rod which is put through the hole bored a cross the Pike-staff hang perpendicular then take your priming Iron or some other bodkin and put it down the touch hole to the Rammer head making a mark therewith this done draw out your Instrument and lay the same on a long Table with the Iron Ball hanging off the end perpendicular as it did when the Instrument was in the Piece then observe whether the mark you made upon the Rammer head when it was in the Piece be just upon the uppermost part of the same if it be the bore of the Piece lies neither to the right hand nor to the left but if you find it any thing to the right or left hand so much lyeth the bore either to the right or left and the Piece in Shooting must be ordered and charged accordingly But if you would know whether the bore lie more upwards or downwards then bend a Wire at the very end so that it being put in at the very touch hole may ketch at the metal when it is drawn out then put the Wire down the touch hole till it touch the bottom of the metal in the Chamber then holding it in that place make a mark upon the wire just even with the touch hole after draw up the wire until it ketch at the metal on the top of the Chamber and holding it there make a mark as before the difference between the two marks is the just wideness of the Chamber and the distance between the first mark and the end of the Wire having half the Diameter of the Chamber of the Piece substracted from it will leave half the Diameter of the Piece if the Piece be true bored but if the Piece's number be more than half the Diameter of the Piece the bore lieth too far from the touch hole and the upper part of the metal is thickest but if lesser the lower part of the metal is thickest or hath most metal CHAP. XXVIII Of the necessary Instruments for a Gunner with several other necessary things A Master Gunner intending upon service ought most chiefly to be prepared with these Instruments as Calabers Compasses height board Sight Rule Gunners Scale and a Gunners quadrant to divide as well into 12 as 90 equal parts with a Geometrical Square to make Montures Levels heights Breadths Distances and Profundities of which you shall read more in the Second Part also with a little brass Level Scales Weights Priming-Irons Moulds to make Cross-bar Shot for Musquets a Book of Accompts and an Iron wire or Spring and a Transome to dispart a Piece of Ordnance that the Transome may go up and down according to the Diameter and thickness of the Piece let the Transom be long enough to reach the base Ring from the touch hole In the next place he ought to be very expert in the knowledg of cutting out making up and finishing all sorts of Ladles Spunges Rammers Cartredges c. For which purpose you may have Recourse to the foregoing Table And because it may somtimes happen by reason of the steepness badness and unevenness of the way you may be driven to dismount and remount your Piece e're you get up to the top
the bore and dividing it into two equal parts then with a Plumb line hanging over the mouth of the Piece being guided by the divided stick you shall have good aim where to set your Dispart this being done go to the Base Ring if the Piece be true bored then find which is the highest part and middle of that Ring but if the Piece be not true bored then find which part of the Base Ring is just over the Cylender and take that for your true line when you have found out the dispart and placed it and also found what point in the Base Ring is to answer to it then make some very small mark on the Base Ring in that place hold your head about two foot from the Base Ring and there you may best observe as the Piece is traversing when you are in a direct line with the mark this done give one of your men order to raise and fall the Piece with his Hand-spike as you shall appoint him until you can holding your head two foot from the Britch of the Piece with your eye perceive the mark at the Base Ring and the top of the dispart in a direct line with the mark you must shoot at at that instant stop the motion of the Piece with a Coyn that it may remain as you have directed it then Prime your Piece and give fire Before you place your Dispart you are to take notice whether the ground be Level whereon the Wheels of the Gun stand or if they be not one higher than the other and if the Trunions stand just over the Axeltree of the Wheels or no whether one Trunion lye higher on the Carriage than the other whether the Gun be truely placed in the Carriage or not that is that it be not nearer one side than the other whether the Carriage be truly made according to the direction we have already prescribed in the first part whether the Axeltree be placed just cross the Carriage or not CHAP. XVII How if a Shot do carry to the right or to the left under or over the mark by reason of some known fault to amend it in making the next Shot AFter you have made one Shot and find the Piece carry just over the mark then do all that has been taught again and when your Piece lyes directly against the mark observe how much the last stroak of the Shot is above the mark so much longer make your dispart that the top of it may be just seen from the Britch of the Piece in a direct line with the stroke of the Shot when it is of this length then level your Piece with this new dispart to the assigned mark Give fire and without doubt it will strike the same If the first Shot strike under the mark then bring the Piece in all points as before to pass mark how much of the dispart is over the stroke of the Shot and cut it just so short as being at the Britch you may discern the top of it with the mark on the Base Ring and stroke of the Shot in a just right line and when you perceive it is of such a length level the Piece to the assigned mark as at the first then Prime and Give fire If the first Shot strike on the right hand of the mark to mend it you must level the Piece as formerly you standing behind the Britch of the Piece observe the stroke of the Shot over the dispart and that part of the Base Ring as you at that instant look over in a right line towards the dispart and the stroke of the Shot set up in that place a Pin with a little soft Wax on the Base Ring so this Pin will be in a right line with the dispart and stroke of the Shot This being done level your Piece to the mark assigned by this Pin and the dispart and without question you will make a fair Shot for when you level by the Metal of the Base Ring where the Pin is placed and the mark of the Piece standing at that direction look over the top of the dispart from the notch in the Base Ring and you shall find it to lye just so much to the left as the former Shot struck to the right from the assigned mark which should in all likelyhood now strike the mark But if a Shot be both too wide and too low then you must use both the directions above taught to make the next Shot first regulate the dispart by cutting it shorter according as the Shots mark is lower than the assigned mark when this is done then proceed to my directions to mend shooting wide and these things performed with care and diligence cannot choose but mend a bad Shot CHAP. XVIII Of shooting at Random at a Mark beyond the right line of the Pieces reach or right Range of a Shot and the way of framing a Table of Randoms by help of the Gunners Quadrant FOr the effecting of this matter we must have a Quadrant with a Thread and Plummet which is described in the first Chapter of this second Section to one side of this Quadrant so that one end of the Ruler may go into the Cavity of the Piece and let a Piece of Lead be fastned to the end of the Rule to make it lye close to the bottom of the Metal within the Quadrant hanging without and the plumb-Plumb-line swaying or hanging down from the Center of the Quadrant perpendicular to the Horizontal line for the Quadrant being thus placed you may mount a Piece to what degree you shall find fit to shoot by Now every one that will learn to shoot at Random must draw his Piece on a level ground where first shooting level he must observe that distance in feet or paces then mount his Piece to one degree and mark where that shall graze thus finding the distance of every degree from the level to the tenth degree by these distances make a Table to which annex the degrees against the distance by which Table you may using the Art of Proportions find how far another Piece will convey her Shot from degree to degree and in Loading your Piece for this work you must have your Powder exactly weighed and likewise the Wad and let the Piece cool of it self and this you must do every time and if the Piece be mounted there needs no Wad after the Shot also you must have a special care of the strength of the Powder and let the Powder equally and with the same force and strength be pressed home as near as possible you may CHAP. XIX An effectual way to make a Shot out of a Piece of Ordnance at Random HE that intends to be expert at these things ought principally to endeavour at one time or another to obtain so much liberty of his Superior Commanders as to make two three or more Shot with the Piece he chooseth or intends for most Service then must he measure the distance from the Platform
when he heareth it sounded in the Field he must retire to them with all Speed 4. Tucquet Or March When this is sounded he is presently to March in which he is to observe his right-hand man and to follow after his Leader 5. Charga Or Charge When this is sounded by and with the examples or directions of his Commander the Souldier is to give proof of his valour in the speedy charging of his Enemy 6. Auquet Or Watch When this is sounded at night the Souldier is to repaire to the place for mounting of the Guard for Watch Or at the morning for dismounting of the Guards I have read of another sound called Attende Hoe for listening unto A call for summons A Senat for State and the like This when sounded the Souldier is to hearken unto it that he may the better be able to perform those Edicts that shall be then commanded The third and last Military Signe is 3. A Mute That is by signes to the eye as by the Cornets Colours or other motions by the hand of the Commander c. You see there are two principal senses of Advertisements the Eare and the Eye the true observation and use of these signes availeth much in Warr for he that is negligent in either may not only lose himself but be the cause of the loss of many others so that by being careless herein Victory it self is often lost How careful ought every Souldier then to be that by silence he may the beter hearken to all Commands that by the Vigilancy of his eye he may the better observe Vide Chap. 5. every sign that may by given For Vegetius saith that nothing profiteth more to Victory than to obey the Admonitions of signes CHAP. V. For the Marching and drawing up of a Troop of Horse EVery Troop of Horse must be furnished with a Captain Lieutenant Cornet and a Quartermaster two Trumpeters a Clark a Sadler a Chirurgeon and a Farrier And every Troop is usually divided into three equal parts each of which is called a Squadron and are severally known by the Captain 's Lieutenant's and Cornet's Squadron acordingly there are three Corporals There are as great diversitie of judgements almost as Authors about the placing of some Officers either in their marchings of a single Troop or being drawn up into a Battalia Some would have the Captain and one Trumpet in the front Then the Cornet leading of his Squadron and the third to be lead by the Eldest Corporal and the Junior Corporal in the reer Ward fo 26. with the Lieutenant who hath the command of a Trumpet with him Markham varieth something from this and but little only the two junior Corporals to be extravagant in the March who are so ordered on purpose to keep the Souldiers in their Ranks and to be orderly in their March Both Ward and Markham marcheth six in file but Ward marcheth Five in Rank and Markham Four only Others again differ in placing of Officers both in March and Battalia as Walhawsen would have the Harquebuzier to March eight in File and the Cuiraster ten in File But Markham and Ward being later Discipliners in this Art Military I shall only insert two platformes accordingly These of Markham and of Captain Ward are decyphered six in File and a File so drawn is distinguished according to their dignity of Place a Leader a Follower two Middlemen a Follower and a Bringer up The Ancient Dignity of a File 1 Dignity of place 1 H Leader 2 5 h Follower 3 4 H Middle man to the front 4 3 H Middle man to the reere 5 6 h Follower 6 2 H Bringer up Cruso exerciseth eight deep and therefore useless to our mode of fighting for our Custome is to make the Horse but three in File I shall not stand to answer the objections on both sides but shall leave it to the most expert in this Art I conceive it enough that our late experience hath taught otherwise And our present discipline being in practice to the Contrary Accordingly here shall follow a Troop of threescore Horse marching with each Officer in his respective place and also the form of a Troop drawn up in a body And when you march through any City or Town Observe your Pistols must be loaded and so fixed that you may be in a readyness to fire when ever occasion may be offered and command given having one of your Pistols drawn forth of your Holster mounting your muzzel and resting the butt end thereof upon your Thigh A Troop marching to our present mode A Troop drawn up In the March some place the Quartermaster to lead up the Lieutenant's Squadron and the two other Corporals to be extravagant that is to view and see each Souldier to keep his place In private exercises it is not denied but the Quartermaster may lead up the Lieutenant's Squadron But it is conceived best to place the Quarter-master in the Reere for it is presupposed that he is or may be to take up Quarters c. CHAP. VI. The Exercising of a Troop as Armed with a Carabine and Pistol THe Horse being in a body to exercise and to make the Souldier more able to handle his armes when he shall be called forth to fight The words of Command shall follow Notwithstanding there is but little difference between the words of Command for the Pistol with a Snaphans and the Carabine I shall however give them severally Although Mounting to Horse is no Posture of Arms and but a preparative to exercise and Service I shall presuppose the Souldiers to be dismounted annd stand ready by their Horses in a body The word of Command according to our English mode is To horse Now all being ready to Mount must be careful that his Horse be well girt c. And as a preparative to Exercise there is another word of Command Silence Without there be silence in the body the Souldier in no wise can distinctly hear what is commanded by the chief Officer It is the Souldiers Ear and care to preserve the body from fractions and where Silence is not diligently performed the Souldier doth not only fail in his motions but the event will be naught for it is the very footstep to rashness And it is as Livius saith Temeritas praeterquam quòd stulta est etiam infoelix not only foolishness but infortunate The words of Command for the Carabine All the Carabines being dropt let fall and hanging by their Swivells The Postures are as followeth Silence being commanded 1. Handle your Carabine Postures 2. Mount your Carabine Some terme this Order and others against that because it 's proper to the Pike placing your butt end upon your Thigh 3. Rest your Carabine in your bridle hand 4. Bend your cock to half bent 5. Guard or secure your cock 6. Prime your Pan. 7. Shut your pan or fix your hammer 8. Sink your Carabine on your left side 9. Gage your flask 10. Lade your
Carabine 11. Draw forth your scouring stick or Rammer 12. Shorten your Rammer 13. Lade with Bullet and Ramm home 14. With-draw your Rammer or scowring stick 15. Return your scowring stick 16. Recover and rest your Carabine in your bridle hand 17. Fix your Hammer or Steel 18. Free your Cock 19. Present your Carabine In presenting of the Carabine he must rest it upon his bridle Arm placing the butt end to the right side near the shoulder or at length with his right hand 20. Give fire Note That the Carabine is to be fired about twelve foot distance and to be levelled at the knees of your Enemies Horse because that by the strength of the Powder and motion of the Horse your shot may be at Random 21. Drop or let fall your Carabine These Postures may serve for the Harquebuz but observe when at any time you make your Approaches towards an Enemy your Carabine is to be mounted with the butt end on your thigh with your hand above the lock and so when you march through any Town or City otherwise to be dropt Here follow the Commands for the Pistols Postures 1. Vncape your Pistols 2. Draw forth your Pistols This must be performed with the right hand the left Pistol first and then to mount the Muzzel 3. Order your Pistol Rest your Pistol a little in your bridle hand and then immediately take your Pistol near the middle part of it and place the butt end upon your thigh 4. Sink or rest your Pistol in your bridle hand 5. Bend your Cock or draw up your Cock to half bent 6. Secure or Guard your Cock 7. Open your Pan. 8. Prime your Pan. 9. Shut your Pan or order your Hammer or Steel 10. Cast about your Pistols Which is to be done against your left thigh with your muzzel upwards in your bridle hand 11. Gage your Flasks 12. Lade your Pistols with Powder For your more speedy lading of your Pistols there is lately invented a small powder flask with a suitable charge but it is not to be denied but your Cartroaches are very serviceable 13. Draw forth your Rammer 14. Shorten your Rammer 15. Lade with Bullet and ram home 16. With-draw your Rammer 17. Shorten your Rammer 18. Return your Rammer 19. Recover your Pistol 20. Fix or order your Hammer or Steel 21. Free your Cock 22. Bend your Cock at full bent 23. Present your Pistols 24. Give fire In the firing of your Pistols you are not to fire directly forwards to your Enemies horses head but towards the right hand with the lock of the Pistol upwards 25. Return your Pistol c. The Souldier having fired and returned his Pistol if time will permit him so to do he is to take himself to the use of the sword his sword being drawn and placed in his bridle hand near to the hilt of the sword and having received it into his weapon hand for service must place the pummel upon his right thigh and so to raise his point to his mark higher or lower as occasion serveth and therewith to endeavour to disable his Enemy either by cutting his Horses bridle or other his Arms that he serveth in which if discreetly managed will prove perilous to them And further it is very requisite that the Harquebuzier and Carabinier be often exercised to shoot bullets at a mark that in time they may be approved marks-men In order to which they are to take special care not to over-charge their peeces with powder as it is too much an errour in many endeavouring more for a report than for execution Wherefore there ought not to be in proportion for any peece but almost half as much the weight in Powder of the bullet or the Diameter and half of the peece is charge enough And it ought to be the special care of every Commander to see that his Souldiers be served with good powder and well cast bullets and that their bullets be directly fit to their Carabines and Pistols I should now come to shew you what is to be learned by a Souldier for the better demeaning of himself being joyned in a body But shall not in this place shew at large what is meant by a File or Rank half files or half ranks front Read in the exercise of the foot pag. flanks or reer because it will spend too much time and our late unhappy differences have given some light thereunto besides there is so much writ of them in several Treatises of the Infantry that it would be too much trouble here to treat thereupon CHAP. VII Of Distance EVery Troop consisteth of Ranks and Files Note That in drawing up of a Troop it must be performed by files not by Ranks and by squadrons as Chap. 5. In Order to distance I must briefly declare what a File and a Rank is A File is a sequent Number certain See Foot Ch. 3. standing head to crupper in a straight line from the Front to the Reer and according to our Mode of Discipline consisteth of three Persons 1 h 2 h 3 h A Rank is a Row of men uncertain in Number Pouldron to Pouldron even in breast be they more or less according to the quantity of Souldiers as it falls out to make a Rank There are to be observed two sorts of distances or orders in File and Rank Viz. Close Open Order Close Order in Files is three foot or as occasion serveth closing knee to knee Open Order in files is six foot Close Order in Ranks is three foot or as occasion serveth closing to the Horses crupper Open Order in Ranks is six foot And herein you must further know that there is a difference between the manner of taking the distance of the Cavalry and the Infantry In the Foot the distance is taken from the Souldiers body which cannot be understood in this place but only of space of ground between Horse and Horse CHAP. VIII Of Motions There be four kind of Motions Facings Doublings Counter-marches Wheelings BUt some of these being not of use to our present mode of Discipline therefore I shall treat no more of them but what may be useful 1. Facings are used to make the Company perfect and to be suddainly prepared for a Charge on either Flank or Reer With 10. 8. and 6. in depth 2. Doublings There hath been used in the Horse service these following as 1. As to strengthen the Front There were used to strengthen the Flanks 1. Doublings of Ranks 2. Doublings of half Files 3. Doubling of the Front by bringers up 4. Doublings of Files 5. Doublings of half Ranks The three first as to our Mode of Exercise may be wholly laid aside in regard they cannot be performed the Troop being but three in depth It is conceived the other two may be necessary either for Exercise sake or in regard of some suddain Onset on the Flanks thereby to strengthen them but I otherwise think this may be prevented by a speedy wheeling
be necessary to put planks or some solid thing under the Ghynne and Pins to stay them but this as necessity shall require Now the Ghynne firmly placed and setled the Gunner must get up by the Ladder or some Steps to the head or top of it having the Rope in his hand shall put it through the uppermost truckle of the head and let it fall down to another man again that he may catch it that he may put it through one side of the Piece to fasten it into the Ears of the Piece and so having put it through them he may draw it up until he can give it him that is above and then put it through the other hole of the Truckle and give it to him that is under him who must reach it again to him that is above and so fasten it to the head of the Ghynne giving it some turns until it come under the uppermost Truckle This done he must fasten it with great diligence to the lower Truckle by putting the Ears as through the Ring which is under the said Truckle after this begin to Hoyse your Peice and in the Hoysing put a spar or some such thing into the mouth of the Peice so that thereby it may be governed and may not sway from one side to the other which would be dangerous for if it should strike against the Rouler or any one of the feet of the Gynne it may break all and so spoil both the work and the men tending upon it Therefore I say be sure that those who stand by the Spar be careful in guiding the Piece and keeping it steddy and right until the weight of the Piece is well setled a diligent Eye being had all this while that neither the feet of the Gynne nor Rope give way and be sure every part of the Rope draw equal and that there be no Knicks or that they be not tangled one amongst another and for that purpose when they begin to hoyse the Piece blows must be given upon the Tackling until it be set tort and all bear equal But if you should perceive that the Ghynne or any part give way presently let your Piece sink and underlay and settle well the feet of the Ghynne and that as gently as may be to the end the Cross beam or Rouler may not be disjoyned or broken Then wind it up carefully and very gently by the help of two men onely and in such a manner as when one of the Leavers is brought down it must be held there fast until the other has got purchase and then must this other also be brought down this must be reiterated so often until it be so high that the Carriage may be placed under it so that the Trunions may fall into the Sockets or holes of the Carriage and then Guide the Piece by the Spar so that it fall easily in and so rest it self in the Carriage and then let it be well clasped over and then locked in and fastned with Forelocks and so you may draw away your Piece where you please On board Ships this Ghynne is not of use it being the Boatswains business to fix a Tackle that may be able to hoist up any Piece into its Carriage the Slings one part must come about the Casacabel and the other part about a Billet so made that it may fit in at the Muzzle and by strength of hands or by help of a Windless or Capstain it may be hoysed up so that the Carriage may be brought under so that the Gun being Loared its Trunions may fall into the holes of the Carriage which then clasp over with its Iron Clasps let them be Forelocked and then with Hand-Tackles be brought where you please See the Figure of the Gynne and the Field and Ship-Pieces mounted in the Figure 11. CHAP. VI. The way to draw a Piece of Ordnance with the necessary things thereunto belonging both for Land and Sea SEeing we have discovered the way of Casting a Piece and Mounting it in its Carriage it follows in the next place that in this Chapter we treat of and shew the manner of drawing them from place to place for Service where care must be taken what the way is that you are to pass for if the way be foul moorish and dirty there is then required as many more Horses as in good wayes That is For a whole Cannon of 8000 l. you may use 15 couple of Horses besides the Tyllar For a Demi-Cannon of about 6000 l. you may use 11 couple of Horses besides the Tyllar For a Piece of 4000 l. weight you may use 8 couple of Horses besides the Tyllar For a Field Piece of about 3000 l. use 6 couple of Horses besides the Tyllar For a Saker of 1800 l. weight you may use 4 couple of Horses besides the Tyllar For a Piece of 1500 l. weight you may use 3 couple of Horses besides the Tyllar For a Faucon two couple of Horses besides the Tyllar For a small Drake of about 250 l. one Horse will serve and by the same Rule you may find how many Horses will draw any weight whatsoever Many times when Horses are wanting men are made use of Upon such occasions you must divide your men into three drawing files according to the greatness of the Piece now to the end the Ranks may spread and every man may draw equally alike fasten to the end of the Carriage a Cross beam or bar to which you must fasten the drawing Ropes equally at such distance that one may not impead the other and let there be besure one to steer the Piece when you come to any winding or turning If the drawing Ropes be long 't is necessary to cross it with Ropes or some light peeces of wood like a Ladder with two or more cross peeces let them be made fast for the better and more steady drawing and to every there must be a Neck-line fastned to the Ropes and so to cast over every mans Sholders in manner as is used to draw our Western Barges And you must know your proportion of men fit to draw any Piece of Ordnance and that must be regulated according to the goodness or badness of the way and so more or less men allowing every man to draw about 50 60 or 80 pounds for 't is supposed a man may draw in ordinary way 50 or 60 pounds but in very good way more than 80 pounds however 't is good to have men enough Let the Spunge Ladle c. be made fast along the Piece to the Ring and Britch end Sometimes by reason of the unevenness steepness or other defects of the way it sometimes happens that you may be forc'd to dismount your Piece and remount it again there 't is necessary every Gunner have with him a Ghynne a Wynche and all appurtenances necessary thereunto As to the Sea Gunner on board Ship their occasions require no more than the Wynch and their Piece being mounted according to the
of Ships a pretty distance or to fire Thatch'd houses Corn-stacks or any other combustible matter apt to burn when you cannot come to the same it is good to have certain strong Cross-bows to bend with Racks or Gaffels and so shoot Arrows armed at the heads with Wild-fire made of the composition as above and about three inches in length and one inch and a half in the Diameter tapred as afore in all points or you may have long bows but then let your Arrows be also longer which for divers services may do great good CHAP. XVI To charge Trunks with Balls of Wild-fire TO charge Trunks to shoot little Balls of wild-fire either to offend or defend you must first charge him with two inches of good Powder and then with a Ball of wild-fire a little lower than the concave of the Trunk let the Ball be bored through cross-ways and primed full of fine powder Lastly with slow receipt then with powder then with a Ball again as aforesaid until you have filled the same within ¼ of an inch of the mouth which would be filled up with fine powder and receipt mixed together Some do use to have at the mouth two Iron stirts to stick them in the side of any thing or to defend ones self from the Enemy from taking it off with a thrust while they do Execution To make the Ball. The Ball of Wild-fire must be thus made Take untwisted Match Tow and Hemp the which would be moistned in Aqua-vitae or boyled in Salt-Peter water then take of bruised Powder six parts of Salt-Peter one part of Brimstone finely beaten one part of coal made of light wood moistned with a little Linseed-oyl and Turpentine wrought together one part then lay the Tow or Oakam abroad in thickness of the back of a knife and as broad as a great Oyster-shel put into the same as much as you can grasp together in your fist and tying the same hard with a pack-thread coat it over with molten Brimstone and when you would use the same bore it through with a Bodkin and fill the holes full of fine powder bruised To make Bullets of Wild-fire to shoot out of a Trunk which will be as hard as a Stone Take Sulphur in meal six parts of Rozen in meal six parts melting the same in some Pot over a slow fire then take stone pitch one part of hard wax one part of Tarr ¼ part of Aquavitae ½ part of Linseed Oyl ½ part of Verdigrease ¼ part of Camphire ⅛ part melting all these together Likewise stir into the same of Peter in meal two parts and taking it from the fire put therein four parts of bruised powder working the same well together in your hands and roul it round of the bigness you mean to make your balls of boring two holes through the same cross-ways which must be primed with bruised powder These balls being cold will grow very hard and fired will burn furiously To make Hedg-hogs To make Hedg-hogs or balls you must fill them with the same receipts you do your Arrows and Pikes and let them be five inches in the Diameter and well armed with twine before you coat them and after boared two holes and primed with fine powder then put in two sticks and using them pull them out again and at the said holes fire them The spikes end of Iron must be like Deaths Arrow heads five or six stirts a piece to hang in the sayls or stick in or upon any place assigned and remember in the arming to leave a noose to throw him being fired out of your hand To make Powder-pots They are made of black Potters clay or thick glass round Bottles with ears to tye matches lighted at both ends the pots or glasses are to be filled with dry fine powder and thrown upon the decks or other where which will much prejudice the Enemy and many times fire their own Powder-chests ARTIFICIAL FIRE-WORKS FOR RECREATION AMongst all Artificial fires that have been put in practice many years the Fuzees which the Latins call Rochetae and the Greeks Pyroboli have always had the first Rank nevertheless this Greek word doth not well agree with the Etymologie of the word Rochetae seeing that 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 signifies properly Tela ignita that is burning darts or Arrows the Italians call them Rochetae and Raggi the Germans Steigen de Kasten Ragetten and Drachetten the Poles Race the French Fuzees the English Rockets or Serpents If we consider the invention of them it hath been of so ancient standing that the construction is now very common and familiar amongst all the Pyrobolists and Fire-masters the which although it appears very easie in it self yet there is in it labour and requires that he that applyes himself to this work should not be careless but on the contrary take all the care and diligence that possibly he can have for the preparing of such perilous things considering likewise the expences and losses are irreparable after the experiment made and seeing that nothing can be put in practice in publick Recreations without these Fuzees therefore I think I am something obliged here to shew the true way of preparing them with their particular use CHAP. I. How to make Rockets I Intend not here to write the Construction of Moulds fit for this purpose but rather leave the more curious Students herein to the works of Casimier Siemienowicz Lieutenant General of the Artillery in the Kingdome of Polonia in his great Art of Artillery written in the French Tongue and Printed at Amsterdam and also in our Countrey-men Mr. Bate and Mr. Babington c. That which I intend to do is to teach you how they may be made by hand or by help only of a Rouler to Roul the Paper upon let it be turned to the thickness you intend only let the Rouler be 8 times the Diameter in length If it be three quarters of an inch in thickness the length will be three inches Roul your Paper hard on the Rouler until the thickness be one inch and a quarter Rouler and all then glue the uppermost paper and the Case is made On the choaking or contracting the paper together at one end within one Diameter of the end except only a little hole about one quarter the Diameter of the bore thereof to contract these Cases on this manner do thus wet the end about one inch in water then put the Rouler in again and tye a great packthread about the wet within three quarters of an inch of the end put another thing almost of the same Diameter with the Rouler in at the wet end about half an inch hold it there get some other body to draw the packthread together you holding the Rouler and Rammer one put down to the end within one inch and the Rammer which must be little less than the Diameter to meet with that end within half an inch in which the contract or choaking must be the packthread having drawn it