is generally used in all Alterations and old work § 5. Of the Draw-knife and its use THe Draw-knife described Plate 8. E. is seldom used about House-building but for the making of some sorts of Houshold-stuff as the Legs of Crickets the Rounds of Ladders the Rails to lay Cheese or Bacon on c. When they use it they set one end of their work against their Breast and the other end against their Work bench or some hollow angle that may keep it from slipping and so pressing the work a little hard with their Breast against the Bench to keep it steddy in its position they with the Handles of the Draw-knife in both their hands enter the edge of the Draw-knife into the work and draw Chips almost the length of their work and so smoothen it quickly § 6. Of Hook-Pins and their use THe Hook-Pin is described Plate 8. F. a the Pin b the Hook c the Head Its office is to pin the Frame of a Floor or Frame of a Roof together whilst it is framing or whilst it is fitting into its position They have many of these Hook-Pins to drive into the several angles of the Frame These they drive into the Pin-holes through the Mortesses and Tennants and being made taper do with a Hammer striking on the bottom of it knock it out again or they most commonly strike under the Hook and so knock it out Then if the Frame lie in its place they pin it up with wooden Pins § 7. Of the Level and its use THe Level described Plate 8. G. a a the Level b the Plumbet c the Plumb-line d d the Perpendicular mark'd from the top to the bottom of the Board The Level is from two to ten foot long that it may reach over a considerable length of the Work If the Plumb-line hang just upon the Perpendicular d d when the Level is set flat down upon the work the work is Level But if it hang on either side the Perpendicular the Floor or Work must be raised on that side till the Plumb-line hang exactly upon the Perpendicular § 8. Of the Plumb-line and its use THe Plumb-line is described Plate 8. H. a the Line Rowl b the Line It is used to try the upright standing of Posts or other work that is to stand perpendicular to the Ground Plot and then they draw off so much Line as is necessary and fasten the rest of the Line there upon the Line Rowl with a Slip-knot that no more Line turn off They hold the end of the Line between their Finger and Thumb half the Diameter of the Line Rowl off one corner of the Post or Work and if the Line and Corner of the Post be parallel to each other the Post is upright But if the Post be not parallel to the Line but its bottom stands more than half the Diameter of the Line Rowl from the Line the Post hangs so much over the bottom of the Post on that side the Line bears off and must be forced backwards till the side of the Post and the Line become parallel to each other But if the bottom of the corner of the Post stands out from the top of the Line the Post must be forced forwards to comply with the Line § 9. Of the Hammer and its use THe Hammer is described Plate 8. I. a the Face b the Claw c c the Pen at the return sides of the Claw This Tool was forgot to be described in Joynery though they use Hammers too and therefore I bring it in here It s chief use is for driving Nails into work and drawing Nails out of work There is required a pretty skill in driving a Nail sor if when you set the point of a Nail you be not curious in observing to strike the flat face of the Hammer perpendiculary down upon the Perpendicular of the Shank the Nail unless it have good entrance will start aside or bow or break and then you will be forced to draw it out again with the Claw of the Hammer Therefore you may see a reason when you buy a Hammer to chuse one with a true flat Face A little trick is sometimes used among some that would be thought cunning Carpenters privately to touch the head of the Nail with a little Ear-wax and then lay a wager with a stranger to the Trick that he shall not drive that Nail up to the Head with so many blows The stranger thinks he shall assuredly win but does assuredly lose for the Hammer no sooner touches the Head of the Nail but instead of entring the wood it flies away notwithstanding his utmost care in striking it down-right § 10. Of the Commander and its use THe Commander is described Plate 8. K. It is indeed but a very great wooden Mallet with an Handle about three foot long to use in both the hands It is used to knock on the Corners of Framed work to set them into their position It is also used to drive small wooden Piles into the ground c. or where greater Engines may be spared § 11. Of the Crow and its use THe Crow is described in Plate 8. L. a the Shank bb the Claws c the Pike-end It is used as a Lever to to sift up the ends of great heavy Timber when either a Bauk or a Rowler is to be laid under it and then they thrust the Claws between the Ground and the Timber and laying a Bauk or some such stuff behind the Crow they draw the other end of the Shank backwards and so raise the Timber § 12. Of the Drug and its use THe Drug described Plate 9. A. is made somewhat like a low narrow Carr. It is used for the carriage of Timber and then is drawn by the Handle aa by two or more men according as the weight of the Timber may require There are also some Engines used in Carpentry for the management of their heavy Timber and hard Labour viz. the Jack the Crab to which belongs Pullies and Tackle c. Wedges Rowlers great Screws c. But I shall give you an account of them when I come to the explanation of Terms at the latter end of Carpentry § 13. Of the Ten-foot Rod and thereby to measure and describe the Ground-plot WE shall begin therefore to measure the Ground-plot to which Carpenters use a Ten-Foot Rod for expedition which is a Rod about an Inch square and ten foot long being divided into ten equal parts each part containing one foot even as the Two-foot Rule described in Exercise 6. § 13. is divided into 24 equal parts and their Sub-divisions With this Rod they measure the length and breadth of the Ground-plot into Feet and if there be odd Inches they measure them with the Two-foot Rule Their measure they note down upon a piece of paper and having considered the situation of the Sides East West North and South they draw on Paper their several Sides accordingly by a small Scale either elected or
that make quantities of Hinges do brighten them as they call it yet they seldom file them but Grinde them on a Grind-stone till they become bright c. Having finished the Joint put the Pin in again but take care it be a little longer than the depth of the Joint because you must batter the ends of the Pin over the outer edges of the Pin-hole that the Pin may not drop out when either edge of the Cross is turned upwards The chiefest curiosity in the making these and indeed all other Hinges is 1. That the Pin-hole be exactly round and not too wide for the Pin. 2. That the Joints are let exactly into one another that they have no play between them lest they shake upwards or downwards nor yet are forced too hard into one another lest when they are nailed on the door the Joint be in danger of breaking 3. That the Cross and the Tail lie on the under-side exactly flat for should they wrap out of flat when they are nailed on the Nails would draw the Joint a-wry and not only make it move hard and unevenly but by oft Opening and Shutting break the Joint 4. If your Work be intended to be curious the true Square-filing the upper-side as you were taught Numb I. fol. 14 15 16. is a great Ornament a Smiths call all Chissels they use upon cold Iron Cold-Chissels b The Stake is a small Anvil which either stands upon a broad Iron foot or Basis on the Work-Bench to remove as occasion offers or else it hath a strong Iron Spike at the bottom which Iron Spike is let into some certain place of the Work-Bench not to be removed It s office is to set small cold Work straight upon or to Cut or Punch upon with the Cold-Chissel or Cold-Punch c Smiths call all Punches they use upon cold Iron Cold-Punches If the Hinge you are to make be large and Plate-Iron is not strong enough for it you must Forge it out of flat Bar-Iron as you were taught Numb I. Fol. 8. to 13. The manner of working Duftails Fig. 5. and Side-hinges Fig. 6. c. is the shape considered in all respects the same I have here shewed you in Cross-Garnets but in these or others you may if your work require curiosity instead of Doubling for the Joint Forge the Round for the Joint of full Iron and afterwards Drill a hole through it for the Pin-hole and by curious Filing work them so true into one another that both sides of the Hinge shall seem but one piece as I shall shew more at large when I come to the making Compasses and other Joints for Mathematical Instruments Of Locks and Keys AS there are Locks for several purposes as Street-door Locks called Stock Locks Chamber-door Locks called Spring-Locks Cupboard-Locks Chest-Locks Trunk-Locks Pad-Locks c. So are there several Inventions in Locks I mean in the making and contriving their Wards or Guards But the contrivances being almost innumerable according to the various fancies of Men shall be referred to another time to discourse and I shall now shew you the working of a Spring-Lock which when you know how to do your Fancy may play with Inventions as you best like In Fig. 2. AAAA the Main plate BC the Key-hole EDE the Top-hook EE Cross-wards F the Bolt G the Bolt-Toe or Bolt-Nab H the Draw-back Spring I the Tumbler K the Pin of the Tumbler LL the Staples In Fig. 3. AAAA the Cover-Plate B the Pin DCD the Main-ward DD Cross-wards E the Step-ward or Dap-ward In Fig. 4. A the Pin-hole B the Step or Dap-ward C the Hook-ward D the Middle or Main Cross-ward EE the Cross-ward F the Main-ward GG Cross-ward H the Shank I the Pot or Bead K the Bow-ward L the Bow BCDEEFGG the Bit. First Cut out of an Iron Plate with a Cold-Chissel the size and shape of the Main-Plate as you were taught to cut the Cross and Tail-piece of the Cross-Garnet then consider what depth you intend the Bit of the Key shall have and set that depth off on the Main-Plate by leaving about half an Inch of Plate between the bottom of the Key-hole and the lower edge of the Main-Plate as at C or more or less according to the size of the Lock Then measure with a pair of Compasses between the bottom of the Bit and the Centre of your Key or your intended Key and set that distance off from C to B near the middle between the two ends of the Main-Plate and with the a Prick-punch make there a mark to set one foot of your Compasses in then opening your Compasses to the middle of the Bit of your intended Key as to D describe the Arch EDE for the true place the Top-hoop must stand on Then cut out another piece of Plate as AAAA in Fig. 3. for a Cover-plate with two pieces one on each side long enough to make Studs of to turn downwards and then outward again as FF GG that the Cover-plate may stand off the Main-Plate the breadth of the Bit of the Key and at the two end of these Studs Punch holes as GG to Rivet the Cover-Plate into the Main-Plate In the middle of this Plate make the Centre as at B then open your Compasses to three quarters the length of the Bit and half the Diameter of the Shank of the Key and placing one foot in the Point B describe with the other foot the Arch DCD for the true place of the Main-ward then set your Compasses to a little more than half the Diameter of the Shank and place one foot as before in the Centre B and with the other foot describe the small Arch E for the true place the Step-ward or as some call it the Dap-ward must stand So have you the true places of the Wards for an ordinary Spring-Lock you may if the depth of your Bit will bear it put more Wards in your Plates But you must note that the more Wards you put in the weaker you make your Key because that to every Ward on the Plates you must make a slit or Ward in the Bit of the Key and the more Wards you make the weaker the Iron of the Bit will be and then if the Bolt shoot not easily backwards or forwards the Bit may be in danger of breaking Having marked on your Plates the places of all your Wards you must take thin Plate and with Hammering and Filing make them both b Hammer-hard and of equal thickness all the way Then file one edge very straight by laying a straight Ruler just within the edge of it and drawing or racing with a point of hardned Steel a bright line by the side of the Ruler File away the edge of the Plate to that line then draw as before another straight line parallel to the first straight line or which is all one parallel to the filed Edge just of the breadth you intend the Wards shall be and File as before only you must leave two
or Bar just above the Sholder makes the Head and for that I did not mention it there I thought fit since the purpose required it to do it here The Forging of the Nuts are taught before Numb I. Fol. 11 12. Having forged and filed your Shank square and the Head either square or round as you intend it shall be file also the Screw-pin from the risings and dents left at the Forge and file it a little tapering towards the end that it may enter the Screw-plate the Rule how much it must be Tapering is this consider how deep the Inner Grooves of the Screw-plate lie in the outer Threds and file the end of the Screw-pin so much smaller than the rest of the Screw-pin for the outer Threds of the Screw-plate must make the Grooves on the Screw-pin and the Grooves in the Screw-plate will make the Threds on the Screw-pin Having fitted your self with a hole in your Screw-plate that is such a hole whose Diameter of the hollow Grooves shall be equal to the Diameter of the Screw-pin but not such an hole whose Diameter of the outer Threds shall be equal to the Diameter of the Screw-pin for then the Screw-plate will indeed turn about the Screw-pin but not cut any Grooves or Threds in it screw the Shank with the Head down-wards in the Vice so as that the Screw-pin may stand directly upright and take the handle of the Screw-plate in your Right-hand and lay that hole flat upon the Screw-pin and press it pretty hard down over it and turn the Screw-plate evenly about with its handle towards you from the Right towards the Left-hand so shall the outer Threds of the Srew-plate cut Grooves into the Screw-pin and the substance of the Iron on the Screw-pin will fill up the Grooves of the Screw-plate and be a Thred upon the Screw-pin But take this for Caution that as I told you you must not make your Screw-pin too small because the Screw-plate will not then cut it so if you make it too big if it do enter the Screw-plate where it is Taper it will endanger the breaking it or if it do not break it yet the Screw-plate will after it gets a little below the Tapering go no farther but work and wear off the Thred again it made about the tapering To fit the Pin therefore to a true size I in my Practise use to try into what hole of the Screw-plate the Tap or place of the Tap if it be a tapering Tap I make the Nut with will just slide through Threds and all which generally in most Screw-plates is the hole next above that to be used for then turning my Pin about in that hole if the Pin be irregularly filed or but a little too big on any part of it the Threds of that Hole will cut small marks upon the Pin on the irregular places or where it is too big so that afterwards filing those marks just off I do at once file my Pin truly round and small enough to fit the Hole I make my Screw-pin with As the Hole of the Screw-plate must be fitted to the Screw-pin so must the Screw-tap that makes the Screw in the Nut be fitted to the round hole of the Nut but that Tap must be of the same size of your Screw-pin too which you may try by the same hole of the Screw-plate you made the Screw-pin with Screw the Nut in the Vice directly flat that the hole may stand upright and put the Screw-tap upright into the hole then if your Screw-tap have an handle turn it by the handle hard round in the Hole so will the Screw-tap work it self into the Hole and make Grooves in it to fit the Threds of the Screw-pin But if the Screw-tap have no handle then it hath its upper end filed to a long square to fit into an hollow square made near the handle of the Screw-plate put that long square hole over the long square on the top of the Tap and then by turn-ing about the Screw-plate you will also turn about the Tap in the hole and make Grooves and Threds in the Nut. But though small Screws are made with Screw-plates yet great Screws such as are for Vices Hot-Presses Printing-Presses c. are not made with Screw-Plates but must be cut out of the main Iron with heavy blows upon a Cold-Chissel The manner of making them is as follows The Rules and manner of Cutting Worms upon great Screws THE Threds of Screws when they are bigger than can be made in Screw-plates are called Worms They consist in length breadth and depth the length of a Worm begins at the one end of the Spindle and ends at the other the breadth of the Worm is contained between any two Grooves on the Spindle viz. The upper and under Groove of the Worm in every part of the Spindle the depth of the Worm is cut into the Diameter of the Spindle viz. The depth between the outside of the Worm and the bottom of the Groove The depth ought to be about the one Seventh Part of the Diameter on each side the Spindle You ought to make the Groove wider than the Worm is broad because the Worm being cut out of the same intire piece with the Spindle will be as strong as the Worm in the Nut tho' the Worm on the Spindle be smaller for you cannot come at the Worm in the Nut to cut it with Files as you may the Spindle and therefore you must either Turn up a Rod of Iron to twist round about the Grooves on the Spindle and then take it off and Braze it into the Nut or else you must Cast a Nut of Brass upon the Spindle which will neither way be so strong as the Worm cut out of the whole Iron by so much as Brass is a weaker Mettal than Iron and therefore it is that you ought to allow the Worm in the Nut a greater breadth than the Worm on the Spindle that the strength of both may as near as you can be equallized for both being put to equal force ought to have equal strength The Worm may very well be the One Seventh Part smaller than the Groove is wide as aforesaid Having considered what breadth the Worm on the Spindle shall have take a small thin Plate of Brass or Iron and file a square notch at the end of it just so wide and so deep as your Worm is to be broad and deep and file the sides of the Plate that this notch stands between just to the width of the Groove This Plate must be a Gage to file your Worm and Groove to equal breadth by then draw a straight and upright line the whole length of the Spindle divide from this line the Circumference of the whole Spindle into eight equal parts and through those Divisions draw seven Lines more parallel to the first Line then open your Compasses just to the breadth of one Worm and one Groove and set off that distance
so oft as you can from the one end of the Spindle to the other but I should first have told you that the end of your Spindle must be truly square to the outside and with a Prick-Punch make a mark to every setting off on that line Do the like to all the other straight upright Lines Note that you may chuse one of these eight upright lines for the first and make the next towards your left hand the second but then the first must stand towards you and the next that the third and so on And the top mark of every one of these upright straight Lines shall be called the first Mark the next under that the second Mark the third the third Mark and so downwards in Order and Number Having marked one of these eight Lines at the top of the Spindle to begin the winding of the Worm at with a Black-lead Pencil draw a line from that Mark to the second Mark on the next upright line towards the left hand from thence continue drawing on with your Pencil to the third Mark on the third upright line draw on still to the fourth Mark on the fourth upright line and so onwards till you have drawn over the eight straight lines which when you have done you must still continue on drawing downwards to each lower Mark on each successive upright line till you have drawn your Worm from end to end Then examine as well as you can by your Eye whether the Worm you have carried on from Mark to Mark with the Black-lead Pencil do not break into Angles which if it do any where you must mend it in that place Then with the edge of an half-round File file a small line in that Black-lead line and be sure that the line you are filing run exactly through all the Marks that the Black-lead Pencil should have run through if it did not for want of good guidance of the hand This small line is only for a guide to cut the Groove down by for the making of a Screw is indeed nothing else but the cutting the Groove down for then the Worm remains But you must not file in this small line but leave it as a guide to lie on the middle of the Worm as I said before Therefore to cut down the Groove take a Cold-Chissel somewhat thinner than you intend the Groove shall be wide viz. about the thickness of the breadth of the Worm and with heavy blows cut out the Groove pretty near The reason why you should not offer to cut the Grooves to their full width at the first is because your Hand may carry the Cold-Chissel somewhat awry and should your Cold-Chissel be as thick as the Groove is wide you could not smooth the Irregularities out without making the Worm narrower than you intended it Then with a Flat-file open and smooth the Groves filing in the middle between the two next fine lines cut by the Half-round File till you have wrought the Spindle from end to end so shall the Worm remain But you must not expect that though the Groove be cut it is therefore finished for now you must begin to use the thin Plate-Gage and try First whether the Worm have equal breadth all the way Secondly whether rhe Groove have equal breadth all the way And Thirdly whether the Groove have equal depth all the way and whereever you find the Worm too broad you must file it thinner and where the Groove is not deep enough file it deeper therefore in cutting down the Groove you may observe that if at first you file the Worm ne'er so little too narrow or the Groove ne'er so little too deep you shall have all the rest of the Worm or Groove to file over again because the whole Worm must be wrought to the breadth of the smallest part of it and the whole Groove to the depth of the deepest place all the way especially if the Nut be to be Cast in Brass upon the Spindle because the Mettal running close to the Spindle will bind on that place and not come off it but if the Nut be not to be Cast in Brass but only hath a Worm brazed into it this niceness is not so absolutely necessary because that Worm is first Turned up and bowed into the Grooves of the Spindle and you may try that before it is Braz'd into the Nut and if it go not well about you may mend or botch it either by Hammering or Filing or both The manner of Casting the Nut upon the Spindle I shall shew when I come to the Casting of Mettals and the manner of Brazing hath been Taught already Numb I. fol. 12 13. If your Spindle is to have three or four Worms winding about it as Coining-Presses and Printing-Presses have that they may not wear out too fast you must divide the Circumference into three or four equal parts and each of these equal parts into two equal parts and having straight upright lines drawn as before begin a Worm at each of those three or four Divisions on the Circumference and considering the breadth of your Worm and width of your Groove measure that width so oft as you can on all the upright lines and making Marks on those at each Setting off draw as before a line from the end of the Spindle on the first upright line to the Mark below it which is the second Mark on the second upright line from thence to the third Mark on the third upright line and so on to the other end of the Spindle Having drawn the first Worm work the other Worms as this MECHANICK EXERCISES OR The Doctrine of Handy-Works Viz. The making of Jacks and Bullet-Molds the twisting of Iron and Case-hardning it with the use of some Tools not treated of before Also of the several Sorts of Steel the manner of Softning Hardning and Tempering them Of Jacks FIg. 1. is called a Worm-Jack AB the Fore-side AC the Back-side AA the Top-piece BC the Bottom-piece altogether the Jack-Frame EEK the Main-Spindle NON the Main Wheel and Barrel O the Barrel D the Wind-up-piece fastned into the Barrel FF the Worm-wheel Spindle G the Worm-wheel Q the Worm-Nut H the Worm R the Stud of the Worm-Spindle D the Worm-Loop L the Wind-up-piece M the Winch or Winder or Handle the Iron part is the Winder the Wood the Handle S the Eye of the Winder II the Fly T the Socket of the Fly V the Struck-Wheel X the Stayes or Back-fastnings First you are to Forge the Jack-frame and on the left side of the Foreside a Shank for the Stud of the Worm-spindle as you were taught Numb I. fol. 8 9 10 11 12. and then file it as you were taught Numb I. fol. 14 15 16. The top and bottom Pieces are let into square holes at the ends of the Fore and Backsides But you must forge the top and bottom Pieces with two small Squares towards the ends of them and two round ends for Screw-pins beyond
Square-bore that it may cut the faster And you must be sure to guide the Square-bore truly straight forwards in the hole lest the hole be wrought aslope in the Iron b To open an hole is in Smith's Language to make the hole wider c A Dufftail is a Figure made in the form of a Doves-tail and is used by many other Handy-crafts as well as by Smiths but most especially by Joyners as I shall shew when I come to Joynery d A Jack-file is a broad File somewhat thin on both Edges and stronger in the middle The manner of making Molds to Cast Leaden Bullets in I insert the making of Bullet-Molds because there is some sort of Work in them different from what hath yet been taught The Handles and the Heads are forged as other Work but the two concave Hemispheres are first punched with a round-ended Punch of the shape and almost of the size you intend the Bullet shall be They must be punch'd deep enough at the Forge with a Blood-red-heat then are the Edges of the Chaps filed flat first with a Common-file the Common-way but afterwards with an Using-file as Workmen call it The Using-file is a long and broad File exactly flat on both its cut sides having a square Iron handle drawn out at one end with an hole in it but the handle is not to hold it by when you use it but the hole in it to go over a pin you hang it upon when you do not use it When you use it you must lay it flat upon the Work-bench with its handle from you and you must take care that it lie solid and steddy lest when you work upon it it slip from you therefore you may strike a Nail in at the hole in the handle a little way into the Work-Bench that you may draw it again when you have done with the Using-file and you may drive in a small Tack on each side the Using-file to keep it steddy or you may tack down two small thin boards on either side the Using-file to keep it steddy and rip them off again when you have done Your Using-file lying thus straight and steddy before you lay the Chaps of one half of the Mold flat upon the hither end of the Using-file and holding your two Thumbs and your two Fore-fingers upon the head of the Mold thrust your work hard down from you the whole length of the Using-file then draw your work lightly back and thrust it again hard from you reiterate these thrusts thus till upon the Chaps of the Mold you can see no irregularities or the File-stroaks of the common File left so may you be sure that the Chaps of the Mold is truly flat Do the like by the other half of the Mold Now you must try whether each of these concaves be an exact half-round thus you may describe an Arch a little more than a Semi-Circle just of the Diameter of your Bullet upon the end of a thin piece of Brass-latin draw a straight line through the center and the Arch on both sides it for the limits of a Semi-circle file very curiously all the Brass away on the end just to this Semi-circle and just to the Diametral line on either side of the Semi-circle so have you a convex Semi-circle Put this convex Semi-circle into the concave Molds if it fits them so as the convex reaches just the bottom of the Molds when its shoulder touches just the chaps of the Mold they are each a true concave Hemisphere But if the shoulder of the convex that is a Diametral Line prolong'd rides upon the chaps of the Concave and the bottom of the Convex touch not the bottom of the Concave the Concave is punched too deep and must have its chaps rubb'd upon the Using-file again till it comply with the convex Then put into the two Concaves a round Bullet that will just fill them both and pinching the Heads of the Mold close together in a Vice with the Bullet in it drill an hole through both the handles for the Joint The reason why the Bullet is put into the Mold is because the Chaps of the two Halves should lie exactly upon one another whilst the hole for the Joint is drilling Then fit a Rivet-pin for this hole and rivet them together but not so hard but that the Mold may open and shut pretty easy and yet go true Then take the Bullet out and file in each half of the head half a round hole directly against one another for the a Geat which two half holes when the Mold is shut will make one round hole You may now try with Clay or by casting a leaden Bullet in it whether it be exactly round or no for making a true round hole in a thin piece of Brass just of the circumference of the chaps you may try if the cast Bullet will just pass thro' and also fill that hole when the Bullet it turned every way which if it do you may conclude the Mold is true This thin piece of Brass with a round hole in it is called a Sizer But the inside wants cleansing for hitherto it is only punched Therefore you must provide a b Bullet-bore with which you may bore the inside of each half to clear it Or if they be not quite deep enough punch'd you may bore them deeper You may bore them severally or together by putting the Bullet-bore into the Mold so as the Shank may come through the Geat In this Section you see first the use of a Using-file an Instrument of great use for flat Filing for by it you may make two pieces of Iron of somewhat considerable breadth so true that by laying the two flat sides upon each other they shall draw up one another It is much used by Clock-makers Watch-makers Letter-Mold-makers and indeed all others that frame Square-Work on Iron Steel or Brass Secondly the use of a Bullet-bore which tho' it be seldom used yet it may serve not only for Bullet-Molds but for other purposes and by altering its shape into an Oblong a Cone or a Cilinder you may Bore these hollow Figures either for Molds or some other accidental Uses a A Geat is the hole through which the Mettal runs into the Mold The Word is used by most Founders b The Bullet-bore is a Shank of Steel having a steel Globe or Bullet at one end just of your intended Bullet's size This Globular end must be hatched with a fine cut by a File-cutter and Hardned and Tempered The end of the Shank this Globular Bore is fastned to must be round and so small that when the Bullet-bore is in the Mold the Geat will easily receive it The other end of the Shank must be fitted into the square Socket of the Wimble and have a Shoulder to it to stop the Socket from sliding too far upon the Shank From this Shoulder the rest of the Shank must run tapering down to the small end the Bullet-bore is fastned to
your Compasses to two Inches and prick off that distance in one of the lines for the length of the Mortess then lay the inside of the Handle of the Square to one side of the Stuff and upon both the pricks successively and with your Pricker draw straight lines through them by the side of the Tongue so shall the bounds of your Mortess be struck out on the Quarter If your Mortess go through the Quarter draw the same lines on the opposite side of the Quarter thus Turn the Quarter or its edge and apply the inside of the Handle of the Square to the ends of the former drawn lines and by the side of the Tongue draw two lines on the edge of the Quarter then turn the Quarter again with its other broad side upwards and apply the inside of the Handle of the Square to the ends of the last lines drawn on the edge and by the side of the Tongue draw two lines on this broad side also These two lines if your quarter was truly squar'd shall be exactly opposite to the two lines drawn on the first broad side of the quarter for the length of the Mortess And for the width of the Mortess Gage this side also as you did the first then for the Tennant Gage on that end of the Quarter you intend the Tennant shall be made the same lines you did for the Mortess And because the Quarter is two Inches thick prick from the end two Inches and applying the inside of the Handle of the Square to the side of the Quarter and the Tongue to that Prick draw by the side of the Tongue a line through that side the Quarter then turn the other sides of the Quarter successively and draw lines athwart each side the Quarter as you were taught to draw the opposite lines for the Mortess Then place the edge of the Inch-Mortess-Chissel with its Basil from you and the Helve bearing a little towards you within one half quarter of an Inch of one end of the struck Mortess and with your Mallet knock hard upon it till you find the Basil of the Chissel will no longer force the chips out of the Mortess then remove the Chissel to the other end of the Mortess and work as with the first end till the Chips will void no longer Then work away the Stuff betwen the two Ends and begin again at one of the ends and then at the other and work deeper into the Mortess then again between both and so work deeper by degrees till you have wrought the Mortess through or if not through to the intended depht then with the Mortess-Chissel work nearer the drawn lines at the ends of the Mortess for before you were directed to work but within half a quarter of an Inch of the drawn lines by laying light blows on it till you have made it fit to pare smooth with a narrow Paring Chissel and then pare the ends as you were taught to work with the Paring-Chissel then with the broad Paring-Chissel pare the sides of the Mortess just to the Struck lines so is the Mortess finished To work the Tennant lay the other Quarter on edge upon your Work-Bench and fasten it with the Holdfast as you were taught Sect. I. Then with the Tennant Saw a little without the Struck-line towards the end you must not Saw just upon the Struck-line because the Saw cuts rough Besides you must leave some Stuff to pare away smooth to the Struck-line that the Stile that is the upright Quarter may make a close Joint with the Rail that is the lower Quarter Saw therefore right down with the Tennant-Saw just almost to the gaged lines for the thickness of the Tennant and have a care to keep the Blade of the Saw exactly upright Then turn the opposite side of the Quarter upwards and work as you were taught to work the first side Then with the Paring-Chissel pare the Work close to the gaged lines for the Tennant Then try how it fits the Mortess If it be not pared enough away you must Pare it where it Bears that is sticks But if you should chance to have made it too little you have spoiled your work Therefore you may see how necessary it is not to make the Mortess too wide at first or the Tennant too narrow Then with the Piercer pierce two holes through the sides or cheeks of the Mortess about half an Inch off either end one Then knock the Tennant stiff into the Mortess and set it upright by applying the Angle of the outer Square to the Angle the two Quarters make and with your Pricker prick round about the insides of the Pierced holes upon the Tennant Then take the Tennant out again and Pierce two holes with the same Bit about the thickness of a shilling above the Pricked holes on the Tennant that is nearer the sholder of the Tennant that the Pins you are to drive in may draw the sholder of the Tennant the closer to the flat side of the Quarter the Mortess is made in Then with the Paring-Chissel make two Pins somewhat Tapering full big enough and setting the two Quarters again square as before Drive the Pins stiff into the Pierced holes If you make another Square as you did this and make also a Tennant on each un-Tennanted end of the Stiles and another Mortess on the top and bottom Rails you may put them together and make square Frame of them § 18. Of the Miter Square And its Use. The Miter square marked E hath as the Square an Handle marked a one Inch thick and three Inches broad and a Tongue marked b of about the same breadth the Handle and the Tongue as the Square have both their sides parallel to their own sides The Handle as the square hath in the middle of its narrowest Side a Mortess in it of an equal depht the whole length of the Handle Into this Mortess is fitted one end of the Tongue but the end of the Handle is first Bereld off to make an Angle of 45 Degrees with its inside This Tongue is as the square Pin'd and Glewed into the Mortess of the Handle It is used for striking a Miter-line as the Square is to strike a Square-line by applying the Inside of the Handle to the outside of the Quarter or Batten you are to work upon and then by striking a line by the side of the Tongue For that line shall be a Miter line And if upon two Battens you strike two such lines and Saw and Pare them just off in the lines when the flats of those two sawn ends are applied to one another the out and inside of the Battens will form themselves into the Figure of a Square Thus Picture Frames and looking Glass-frames are commonly made as by a more full Example you may see in the next Section § 19. Of the Bevil As the Square is made to strike an Angle of 90 Degrees and the Miter an Angle of 45 degrees so the
Bevil marked F having its Tongue movable upon a Center may be set to strike Angles of any greater or lesser numbers of Degrees according as you open the Tongue wider from or shut it closer to the Handle It is used as the Square and the Miter and will perform the Offices of them both though it be not purposely made for either but for the striking such Bevil lines as one part of your work must be cut away to to make it join with another part of your work For Example We will propose to make a Frame for a Picture Looking-Glass c. containing eight straight Sides You may quickly perceive that all the ends of these eight sides must be cut to Bevils and what Bevils they must be you will find if you describe upon a smooth flat Board a Circle of any bigness but the larger the better Divide this Circle into eight equal parts and from every point draw a Line to the Center Draw also straight lines from every point to its next point Then lay the inside of the Handle of your Bevil exactly upon any one of these straight lines so as the Angle made by the inside of the Handle and the inside of the Tongue lie exactly at the very Angle made by this straight line and the Semi-Diametral line proceeding from the Center and move the Tongue nearer or farther off the Handle till the inside of the Tongue and the inside of the Handle lie exactly upon those two lines so shall your Bevil be set Then having fitted your Pieces to your Seantling Stick your Pricker as near the outward Corner of your Pieces as your stuff will bear and apply the inside of your handle also to the outer sides of your Pieces and so as the inside of the Tongue may be drawn home to the Pricker For then lines drawn on those Pieces by the inside of the Tongue shall be the lines the Pieces must be cut in to make these eight Pieces join evenly together by the sides of each other 's Bevil Then with the Strike-block smooth the ends of the Bevils as you were taught in the Section of the Strike-Block If you have a Board on the Back-side of this Frame you may Glew the backsides of these Pieces piece by piece to the Board but first you must fit them to an exact compliance of every Bevil with its Match and when they are so fitted drive two Nails close to the outside of every piece but drive not the Nails deep into the Board because when the Frame is set and Glewed or otherwise fastned you must draw the Nails out again For these Nails are only intended to serve for Fences to set and sit each piece into its proper place before the whole Frame is fastned together And should you not thus Fence them though by your Eye you might judge you fitted the Bevils exactly yet one piece being never so little out of its due position would drive the next piece more out and that the next till at the last the last piece would not join but either be too short or too long or stand too much out or in or else too open or too close on the out or inside But if you have no Board on the backside you must when you Saw the Bevilling Angles upon the square ends of pieces not sawn quite through the depth of one end of every piece but about half way through the depth or thickness and then with your Chissel either split or else pare the upper side of the square end flat away to the Bevil and so leave part of of the square end of your piece to lap under the piece is joined to For Example In Fig. 3. Plate 5. ab is the square end of the piece and bc is the Bevil you work the piece to Therefore you must work away so much of the thickness of the square end as is comprehended between a and c so that you will see the Triangle abc is to be wrought away half way down the thickness of the Stuff and so will the Triangle abc be left for the other half thickness of the Stuff But that end of the piece mark'd 1 which joins to the piece mark'd 2 must upon its Bevil-stroak be sawn quite off and its underside must have the same Triangle wrought into it just so fit as to receive the Triangle in piece 2 and just so deep as that when the Triangle on piece 2 is fitted into the Triangle in piece 1 the Superficies of both the pieces may be even with one another And thus you may lap the ends of every piece into one another These Triangles at the ends of the pieces you may Glew into one another but if you think Glewing alone not strong enough you may Pierce an hole near the inner edge of the Frame because the Triangle hath there most substance of stuff and afterwards Pin it as you are taught to Pin the Rail and Stile together in Sect. 17. This way of Lapping over is sometimes used also for square Miters or other Angular Frames § 20. Of the Miter-Box There is another way used by Joyners that make many Frames to save themselves the labour of Drawing or striking out of Squares Miters and several Bevils upon their Stuff And this is with a Tool called a Mitter-Box described in Plate 5. Fig. 2. It is composed of two pieces of Wood of an Inch thick each as A the upright piece B the Bottom piece The Upright piece is nailed upright fast upon the Bottom-Piece And this Upright-piece hath on its upper side the Miter Lines struck with the Miter square as de on the left hand and gh on the right hand on these two Miter lines the edge of the Saw is set and a kerf made straight down the upright piece as from d e on the left hand to f and from gh on the right hand to i. In like manner any other Bevil is struck upon the upper side of the upright piece with the Bevil as kl on the left hand and no on the right On these two Bevil lines the edge of the Saw is set and a kerf made straight down the upright piece as from k to lm and from g h to i. You may make as many Bevils as you please on the upright piece of the Miter Box Bevils to join Frames of either five six seven eight sides c. and the manner to make them to any number of sides was in part taught in the last Section For as there you were directed to divide the Circle into eight equal parts because eight was the number of sides we proposed to make that Frame consist of So if for any number of sides you divide the Circle into the same equal parts and work as you were there directed you may find what Bevil the Pieces must have that make a Frame that consists of any number of sides So also for Sawing of any Batten or other small pieces square Strike at the
of a Bevil streigth on the line K L bring the Tongue to touch the under side of the first Course of the Scheam then take up the Bevil and set that Bevil line upon the Sommering Mould of the Scheam which Bevil line serves for each Course in the Scheam but you must take the Bevil of each Course in the Hanse and set them upon your Sommering Mould by themselves and Number them with 1 2 3 4 c. because each Course varies Thus having made your Sommering Moulds in the next place you must make the Moulds for the length of your Stretchers and for the breadth of the Headers and the Closiers a piece of Wainscot 7 Inches long and 3 Inches and an half broad will serve for the length of the Stretchers and the breadth of the Headers the Closiers will be 1 Inch and 3 4 broad So the Closier will be half the breadth of the Header and the Header half the length of the Stretcher which will look well It remains now to speak something to the other part of the Arch to wit A D whose Courses both in Hanse and Scheam run alike upon the Ellipsis Lines and seem of one bigness although perhaps there may be some small matter of difference by reason I have not divided the Courses to this Figure from a right Angle but every Course from the Angle which it makes with the Ellipsis which I chose rather to do that so the Bevil of one Course might not seem to run more upon the Ellipsis than the Bevil of another and the difference of the thicknesses being so inconsiderate is not discerned Having described both the Ellipsis lines A D E G divide each of them into a like number of equal parts always remembring to make each Division on the upper Ellipsis line no greater than the thickness of the Brick will contain when it is wrought then through each Division in both the Ellipses draw streight lines continuing them 4 or 5 Inches above the upper Ellipsis Line and as much below the Lower Ellipsis Line then having provided some thin Sheets of fine Pastboard about 20 Inches square cutting one edge streight take one sheet and lay the streight edge even upon the line A E so that it may cover both the Ellipsis lines and being cut to advantage it may cover 8 courses or 9 of the streight Lines having laid it thus upon the figure of the Arch stick a Pin or two through it to keep it in its place then lay a Ruler upon the Past-board true to the 7 8 or 9th streight Line of the Arch according as the Past-board is in bigness to cover them and take a sharp Pen-knife laying the Ruler upon the Past-board true to the streight line whose ends being continued longer than the Arch is deep as I directed before will be seen beyond the Past-board and cut the Past-board true to the Line then take another sheet and join to it and cut it as you did the first so continue till you have covered the Arch from AE just to the line DG sticking Pins in each Sheet to keep them in the places where you lay them Then describe both the Ellipsis lines upon the Pastboard from the same Centres and Radii that you described the Ellipsis's under the Past-board and either divide the Ellipsis lines with the Compasses on the Past-board or else draw lines upon the Past-board from or by the streight lines underneath them whose ends you see but the surer way is to divide the Ellipsis's on the Past-board and draw Lines through those Divisions as you did beneath the Past-board then set 7 Inches being the length of each Stretcher from A towards E and from D towards G and describe from the former Centres the Ellipsis o o through each other course on the Past-board as you may see in the Fig. also set three Inches and an half being the breadth of the Header from A towards E and likewise from D towards G Also set the same 3 Inches and an half from E towards A and from G towards D and describe these two Ellipsis lines from the same Centres through each Course which the Ellipsis line of the Stretchers miss'd likewise draw in the same Courses two other Ellipsis lines one Inch and 3 4 from each of those two Lines you drew last which is the breadth of the Closiers thus one Course of the Arch will be divided into two Stretchers and the next to it into three Headers and two Closiers through the whole Arch this being done cut the Past-board according to the lines into several Courses and each other Course into two Stretchers and the Heading-courses into three Headers and two Closiers exactly according to the Sweep of the balcklead lines and mark each Course with Figures marking the first Course of the Hanse with 1 the next with 2 the third with 3 and so continue till you have marked all the Courses to the Key or middle for every Course differs you were best to mark the lower Closier in each Course with a Cipher on the left hand of its own number that you may know it readily from the upper Closier and make no mistakes when you come to set them also the middle Headers in each Course should be marked besides its own number the thickness of the upper Header being easily discerned from the lower Header needs no marking besides its own number the cross Joints and likewise the under side and upper side of each Course must be cut circular as the Past-boards which are your Moulds direct you If you will add a Keystone and Chaptrels to the Arch as in the Figure let the breadth of the upper part of the Keystone be the height of the Arch viz. 14 Inches and Sommer from the centre at I then make your Chaptrels the same thickness that your lower part of the Keystone is and let the Keystone break without the Arch so much as you project or Sale over the Jaums with the Chaptrels Other kind of Circular Arches as half Rounds and Scheams being described from one Centre are so plain and easy that I need say nothing concerning them But since Streight Arches are much used and many Workmen know not the true way of describing them I shall write something briefly concerning them Streight Arches are used generally over Windows and Doors and according to the breadth of the Piers between the Windows so ought the Skew-back or Sommering of the Arch to be for if the Piers be of a good breadth as 3 or 4 Bricks in length then the Streight Arch may be described as it s vulgarly said from the Oxi which being but part of a Word is taken from the word Oxigonium signifying an Equilateral Triangle with three sharp Angles but if the Piers are small as sometimes they are but the length of two Bricks and sometimes but one Brick and an half then the breadth of the Window or more may be set down upon the middle Line for the
Centre which will give a less Skew-back or Sommering than the Centre from an Oxi I will shew how to describe them both ways and first from the Oxi Suppose a Streight Arch one Brick and an half in height to be made over a Window 4 feet in width See Fig. 4. wherein one half of the Arch is described from the Oxi and the other half from the width of the Window let the width of the Window be A B taking the width between the Compasses from A and B as two Centres describe the two Arches intersecting each other at P though I speak here of Compasses yet when you describe the Arch to its full bigness you must use a Ruler or a Line scarce any Compasses being to be got large enough Then draw another Line above the line A B as the line CD being parallel to it at such a height as you intend your Arch to be as in this Fig. at 12 Inches but most commonly these sort of Arches are but 11 Inches in the height or thereabouts which answers to 4 Courses of Bricks but you may make them more or less in height according as occasion requires then laying a Ruler on the Centre P and on the end of the line A draw the line A C which is vulgarly called the Skew-back for the Arch. The next thing to be done is to divide those two lines A B and C D into so many Courses as the Arch will contain the thickness of a Brick being one of them which some do by dividing the upper line into so many equal parts and from those parts and from the Centre P draw the Sommering Lines or Courses others divide both the upper and lower line into so many equal parts and make no use of a Centre but draw the Courses by a Ruler being laid from the Divisions on the upper line to the Divisions on the lower line both which ways are false and erroneous but this by way of caution Having drawn the Skew-back A C take between your Compasses the thickness that a Brick will contain which I suppose to be two Inches when it is rub'd and setting one Point of the Compasses on the line C D So that when you turn the other Point about it may just touch the line A C in one place and there make a Prick in the line C D but do not draw the Sommering lines until you have gone over half the Arch to see how you come to the Key or middle and if you happen to come just to the middle line or want an Inch of it then you may draw the lines but if not then you must open or shut the Compasses a little till you do Then keeping one end of the Rule close to the Centre at P. the surest way is to strike a small Nail in the Center P and keep the Rule close to the Nail lay the other end of the Rule close to the Prick that you made on the line C D keeping the Compasses at the same width viz. 2. Inches set one Point of the Compasses on the line C D as before so that the other Point being turned about may just pass by the Rule and as it were touch it in one place you must remove the Point of the Compasses upon the line C D farther or nearer to the Rule until it just touch the Rule in one place and so continue with the Rule and Compasses until you come to the middle line and if it happen that your last space want an Inch of the middle then the middle of the Key-course will be the middle of the Arch and the number of the Courses in the whose Arch will be odd but if the last space happen to fall just upon the middle line E F as it doth in the Fig. then the Joint is the middle of the Arch but if it should happen neither to come even to the line nor want an Inch of it then you must open or shut the Compasses a small matter and begin again till it doth come right and the number of the Courses in the whole Arch is an even Number Note When the number of all the Courses in the Arch is an even Number then you must begin the two sides contrary viz. A Header to be the lower Brick of the first Course on one side or half of the Arch and a Stretcher the lower Brick of the first Course on the oother side or half of the Arch And contrariwise if it happen that the Number of the Courses be an odd Number as 25 or 27 or such like then the first Courses of each half of the Arch must be alike that is either both Headers or both Stretchers at the botom Thus having described the Arch the next thing to be done is to make the Sommering Mould which to do get a piece of thin Wainscot being streight on one edge and having one side Plained smooth to set the Bevil strokes upon about 14 Inches long and any breadth above two Inches then laying your Ruler one end at the Centre P and the other end even in the Skew-back line clap the streight edge of the Wainscot close to the Rule so that the lower end of the Wainscot may lye a little below the line A B then take away the Center Rule but stir not the Wainscot and laying a Ruler upon the Wainscot just over the line C D strike a line upon the Wainscot then set one Point of the Compasses being at the width of a Course viz. 2 Inches upon that line so that the other Point being turned about may just touch the streight edge of the Wainscot as you did before in dividing the Courses then make a Prick on the line on the Wainscot and laying your Centre Rule upon it and on the Centre P draw a line upon the Wainscot by the Ruler with a Pencil or the Point of a Compass and cut the Wainscot to that line and make it streight by shooting it with a Plain then your Wainscot will fit exactly between any two lines of the Arch you may let it want the thickness of one of the lines or some small matter more which is enough for the thickness of a Mortar the length of your Stretcher in this Arch may be 8 Inches and 1 4 and the Header 3 Inches and 3 4 but if your Arch be but 11 Inches in height then make your Stretcher 7 Inches and 1 2 long and the Header 3 Inches 1 2 one piece of Wainscot will serve both for the length of the Stretcher and the length of the Header making it like a long square or Oblong whose sides are 8 Inches 1 4 and 3 Inches and 3 4. Then take a Bevil and laying the inner edge of it streight with the line A B and the Angle of the Bevil just over the Angle at A take off the Angle that the Skew-back line A C makes with the line A B and set it upon the smoothed side of your Sommering Mould for the Bevil
Smith working upon the Straight Square or Circle though with different Tools upon different Matter and they all having dependance upon the Smith's Trade and not the Smith upon them But having done with Smithing I shall God willing proceed to those and all other Handy-Works whatsoever that work by Geometrical Principles J. MOXON MECHANICK EXERCISES OR The Doctrine of Handy-Works Of SMITHING in General Definition SMITHING is an Art-Manual by which an irregular Lump or several Lumps of Iron is wrought into an intended Shape This Definition needs no Explanation therefore I shall proceed to give you an Account of the Tools a Smith uses not but that they being so common I suppose you do already know them but partly because they may require some pre-caution in setting them up fittest to your use and partly because it behoves you to know the Names Smiths call the several parts of them by that when I name them in Smith's Language as I shall oft have occasion to do in these Exercises you may the easier understand them as you read them Of setting up a Smith's Forge THE Hearth or Fire-place of the Forge marked A in Plate 1. is to be built up from your floor with Brick about two foot and an half or sometimes two foot nine Inches high according to the purpose you design your Forge for for if your Forge be intended for heavy work your Hearth must lie lower than it need be for light work for easiness of management and so broad as you think convenient It may be built with hollow Arches underneath to set several things out of the way The Back of the Forge is built upright to the top of the Ceiling and inclosed over the Fire-place with a Hovel which ends in a Chimney to carry away the Smoak as B. In the back of the Forge against the Fire-place is fixed a thick Iron Plate and a taper Pipe in it about five Inches long called a Tewel or as some call it a Tewel-Iron marked * which Pipe comes through the Back of the Forge as at C. Into this taper Pipe or Tewel is placed the Nose or Pipe of the Bellows The Office of this Tewel is only to preserve the Pipe of the Bellows and the back of the Forge about the Fire-place from burning Right against the Back is placed at about twenty Inches or two foot distance the Trough and reaches commonly through the whole breadth of the Forge and is as broad and deep as you think good as at D. The Bellows is placed behind the Back of the Forge and hath as aforesaid its Pipe fitted into the Pipe of the Tewel and hath one of its Boards fixed so that it move not upwards or downwards At the Ear of the upper Bellows Board is fastened a Rope or sometimes a Thong of Leather or an Iron Chain or Rod as E which reaches up to the Rocker and is fastened there to the farther end of the Handle as at F. This Handle is fastened a-cross a Rock-staff which moves between two Cheeks upon the Center-pins in two Sockets as at G. So that by drawing down this Handle the moving Board of the Bellows rises and by a considerable weight set on the top of its upper Board sinks down again and by this Agitation performs the Office of a pair of Bellows Of the Anvil THE shape of a Black Smith's Anvil I have inserted in this Figure though it is sometimes made with a Pike or Bickern or Beak-iron at one end of it whose use I shall shew you when I come to round hollow work It s Face must be very flat and smooth without Flaws and so hard that a File will not touch it as Smiths say when a File will not cut or race it The upper Plain A. is called the Face it is commonly set upon a wooden Block that it may stand very steady and solid and about two foot high from the floor or sometimes higher according to the stature of the Person that is to work at it Of the Tongs THere are two sorts of Tongs used by Smiths the one the Straight nosed Tongs used when the work is short and somewhat flat and generally for all Plate Iron The other Crooked nos'd Tongs to be used for the forging small Bars or such thicker work as will be held within the Returns of their Chaps The Chaps are placed near the Joint because that considering the length of the Handles they hold the Iron faster than they would do were they placed farther from the Joint as in the Fig. 3 4. A the Chaps B the Joint CC the Handles Of the Hammer and the Sledge THere are several sorts of Hammers used by Black-Smiths as first the Hand-hammer which is sometimes bigger or less according to the Strength of the Work-man but it is a Hammer of such weight that it may be weilded or governed with one hand at the Anvil Secondly the Up-hand Sledge used by under-Workmen when the Work is not of the largest yet requires help to batter or draw it out they use it with both their Hands before them and seldom lift their Hammer higher than their head Thirdly the About Sledge is the biggest Hammer of all and is also used by under-Workmen for the battering or drawing out of the largest Work and then they hold the farther end of the Handle in both their Hands and swinging the Sledge above their Heads they at Arms end let fall as heavy a Blow as they can upon the Work There is also another Hammer used by them which they call a Rivetting-hammer This is the smallest Hammer of all and very rarely used at the Forge unless your Work prove very small but upon cold Iron it is used for riveting or setting straight or crooking small work In Fig. 5. A the Face B the Pen C the Eye D the Handle Of the Vice THE Vice must be set up very firmly that it shake not and stand upright with its Chaps parallel or range with your Work-bench because square filing is a great piece of good Workmanship in a Smith and should the Vice not stand upright and range with the Work-bench the Chaps pinching upon two square sides would make the top side of your work either lean towards you or from you and consequently you filing as a good Workman ought to do upon the flat or Horizontal Plain of your work would take off more of that Angle or Edge which rises higher than the Plain and less off that Edge that lies lower than the Plain so that one Angle being higher or lower than the other your work instead of being filed Square would be filed Square-wise when you shall have filed all its flat sides and that more or less according to the leaning of the Chaps of your Vice AA the Face hath its two ends lie in a straight Line with the middle of its Face or Plain B the Chaps must be cut with a Bastard Cut and very well tempered C the Screw Pin cut with a
is fastned with wedges over the Pit if the Joyner be accommodated with a Pit if he have none he makes shift with two high frames a little more than Man high in its stead called great Trussels with four Legs these Legs stand spreading outwards that they may stand the firmer Over these two Trussels the Stuff is laid and firmly fastned that it shake not It s outer side from whence the Pricks were set off must be Perpendicular which you must try by a Plumb-line for should the top edge of that side hang never so little over the bottom edge or the bottom edge not lie so far out as the top edge the Scantlin you Saw off would not be of an equal thickness on the Top or Bottom Because the Saw is to work exactly perpendicular Then with the Pit-Saw they enter the one end of the Stuff the Top-man at the Top and the Pit-man under him the Top-man observing to guide the Saw exactly in the line and withall drawing the Saw somewhat towards him when the Saw goes down and the Pit-man drawing it with all his strength perpendicularly down but not so low that the upper and lower handles of the Saw sink below both their managements Then bearing the Teeth of the Saw a little off the Stuff the Top-man draws the Saw up again and the Pit-man assists or eases him in it and thus they continue sawing on till the Saw has run through the whole length upon the Stuff But when the kerf is made so long that by the working of the Saw the Pieces of Stuff on either side will shake against one another and so more or less hinder the easie progress of the Saw they drive a Wedge so far in the kerf as they dare do for fear of splitting the Stuff and so provide the Saw freer and easier passage through the Stuff This Wedging they continue so oft as they find occasion MECHANICK EXERCISES OR The Doctrine of Handy-Works Continued in the ART of JOYNERY § 28. The Use of the Whip-Saw marked N in Plate 4. THE Whip-Saw is used by Joyners to Saw such greater pieces of Stuff that the Hand-Saw will not easily reach through when they use it the Stuff is laid upon the Trussel marked O in Plate 5. in the Angles of it Then two Men takes each an handle of the Saw He to whom the Teeth of the Saw points drawing to him and the other thrusting from him And as before the Saw having run its length is lifted gently over the Stuff to recover another stroak of the Saw § 29. The use of the Hand-Saw marked D the Frame or Bow Saw the Tennant-Saw marked O in Plate 4. These Saws are acommodated for a single Man's use and cut forward as the other Saws do The office of the Cheeks made to the Frame-Saw is by the twisted Cord and Tongue in the middle to draw the upper ends of the Cheeks closer together that the lower end of the Cheeks may be drawn the wider asunder and strain the Blade of the Saw the straighter The Tennant-Saw being thin hath a Back to keep it from bending § 30. The Use of the Compass-Saw marked Q Plate 4. The Compass-Saw should not have its Teeth Set as other Saws have but the edge of it should be made so broad and the back so thin that it may easily follow the broad edge without having its Teeth Set for if the Teeth be Set the blade must be thin or else the Teeth will not bow over the Blade and if it be thin considering the Blade is so narrow it will not be strong enough to abide tough work but at never so little an irregular thrust will bow and at last break yet for cheapness they are many times made so thin that the Teeth require a setting It s office is to cut a round or any other Compass kerf and therefore the edge must be made broad and the back thin that the Back may have a wide kerf to turn in § 31. Of the Rule marked D in Plate 5. The use of the Rule is to measure Feet Inches and parts of Inches which for that Purpose are marked upon the flat and smooth sides of the Rule and numbred with Inches and hath every Inch divided into two halfs and every half into two quarters and every quarter into two half-quarters so that every Inch is divided into eight equal parts And these Inches are numbred from one end of the Rule to the other which commonly is in all 24 Inches which is a Two-Foot Rule They have commonly both Board and Timber measure c. marked upon them for the finding both the superficial and solid Content of Board or Timber The use of which Lines and Tables having been often taught by others and being more Mathematical than Mechanical is unproper for me to meddle with in this Place but rather to refer to those Books But the manual use of it is either to measure length with it or to draw a straight line by the side of it or to Try the straightness or flatness of their Work with They Try their work by applying one of its edges to the flat of the wrought side of their Work and bring their Eye as close as they can to see if they can see light between the edge of the Rule and their Work If they cannot they conclude their work is Try and well wrought § 32. Of the Compasses marked E in Plate 5. aa The Joynt bb the Cheeks of the Joynt cc the Shanks dd the Points Their Office is to describe Circles and set off Distances from their Rule or any other measure to their Work § 33. Of the Glew-pot marked F in Plate 5. The Glew-pot is commonly made of good thick Lead that by its substance it may retain a heat the longer that the Glew I hill not as Work-men say when it cools when it is to be used § 34. Of Chusing and Boiling Glew The clearest driest and most transparent Glew is the best when you boil it break it with your Hammer into small pieces and put it into a clean Skillet or Pipkin by no means greasie for that will spoil the clamminess of the Glew put to it so much Water as is convenient to dissolve the Glew and to make it when it is hot about the thickness of the White of an Egg the quantity of water cannot be assigned because of the different quality there is in Glew keep it stirring whilst it is melting and let it not stick to the sides or bottom of the Vessel When it is well boiled pour it into your Glew-pot to use but let your Glew-pot be very clean When it is cold and you would heat it again in your Glew-pot you must take great care that it burn not to the sides or bottom of the Glew-pot for that burning either turns to a thick hard skin or else to a burnt Cinder-like Substance which if it mingle with the Glew will spoil it all because by its
Substance it will bear the two Joints you are to Glew together off each other When with often heating the Glew grows too thick you may put more water to it but then you must make it very hot lest the Glew and Water do not wholly incorporate Some Joyners will when their Glew is too thick put Small Beer into it thinking it strengthens it I have tried it and could never find it so but think it rather makes the Glew weaker especially if the Small Beer chance to be new and its Yest not well settled from it or so stale that it be either Dreggy or any whit mingled with the Settlings of the Cask § 35. Of Using the Glew Your Glew must be very warm for then it is thinnest and as it chills it thickens with a small Brush you must smear the Glew well upon the Joint of each piece you are to Glew together And before you set them as they are to stand you must jostle them one upon the other that the Glew may very well touch and take hold of the Wood and that the Glew on each Joints may well incorporate Then fit the two Joints as they must stand And when you set them by to dry let the one stand upright upon the other For if they stand a-slope the weight of the Stuff when it leans upon two extream edges may make one end of the Joint Open. § 36. Of the Waving Engine The Waving Engine discribed in Plate 5. Fig. 7. Hath AB a long square Plank of about seven Inches broad five Foot long and an Inch and half thick All along the length of this Plank on the middle between the two sides runs a Rabbet as part of it is seen at C upon this Rabbet rides a Block with a Groove in its under side This Block is about three Inches square and ten Inches long having near the hinder end of it a wooden Handle going through it of about one Inch Diameter as D E At the Fore-end of this Block is fastned a Vice somewhat larger than a great Hand-Vice as at F The Groove in the Block is made fit to receive the Rabbet on the Plank At the farther end of the Plank is erected a square strong piece of wood about six Inches high and five Inches square as G. This Square Piece hath a square wide Mortess in it on the Top as at H. Upon the top of this square piece is a strong square flat Iron Coller somewhat loosly fitted on having two Male Screws fitted into two Female Screws to screw against that part of the Wooden Piece un-mortessed at the Top marked L that it may draw the Iron Coller hard against the Iron marked Q and keep it stiff against the fore-side of the un-mortessed Piece marked L when the piece Q is set to its convenient heighth and on the other side the square wooden Piece is fitted another Iron screw having to the end of its shank fastned a round Iron Plate which lies within the hollow of this wooden piece and therefore cannot in Draft be seen in its proper place But I have described it a part as at M. Fig. 9. It s Nut is placed at M on the wooden Piece On the farther side of the wooden Piece is fitted a Wooden Screw called a Knob as at N. Through the farther and hither side of the square Wooden Piece is fitted a flat Piece of Iron about three quarters of an Inch Broad and one quarter of an Inch thick standing on edge upon the Plank but its upper edge is filed round the reason you will find by and by Its hither end comes through the wooden Piece as at O and its farther end on the opposite side of the wooden piece Upright in the hollow square of the wooden piece stands an Iron as at Q whose lower end is cut into the form of the Molding you intend your work shall have In the fore side of this wooden Piece is a square hole as at R called the Mouth To this Engine belongs a thin flat piece of hard Wood about an Inch and a quarter broad and as long as the Rabbet It is disjunct from the Engine and in Fig. 8. is marked SS called the Rack It hath its under flat cut into those fashioned waves you intend your work shall have The hollow of these waves are made to comply with the round edge of flat Plate of Iron marken O described before for when one end of the Riglet you wave is with the Vice Screwed to the plain side of the Rack and the other end put through the Mouth of the wooden Piece as at TT so as the hollow of the wave on the under-side of the Rack may lie upon the round edge of the flat Iron Plate set on edge as at O and the Iron Q is strong fitted down upon the Riglet Then if you lay hold of the Handles of the Block D E and strongly draw by them the Rack and the Riglet will both together slide through the Mouth of the wooden Piece And as the Rounds of the Rack ride over the round edge of the flat Iron the Rack and Riglet will mount up to the Iron Q and as the Rounds of the Waves on the under side of the Rack slides off the Iron on edge the Rack and Riglet will sink and so in a progression or more the Riglet will on its upper side receive the form of the several waves on the under side of the Rack and also the form or Molding that is on the edge of the bottom of the Iron and so at once the Riglet will be both molded and waved But before you draw the Rack through the Engine you must consider the office of the Knob N and the office of the Iron Screw M For by them the Rack is screwed evenly under the Iron Q. And you must be careful that the Groove of the Block slip not off the Rabbet on the Plank For by these Screws and the Rabbet and Groove your work will be evenly gaged all the way as I said before under the edge of the Iron Q and keep it from sliding either to the right or left hand as you draw it through the Engine § 37. Of Wainscoting Rooms A A A in Plate 7. The Stiles B The Base C The Lower Rail D The Sur-Base E E The Middle Rail or Rails F The Friese-Rail G The Upper-Rail H The Cornice I The Lying Pannel K The Large Pannel L The Friese Pannel In Wainscoting of Rooms there is for the most part but two heights of Pannels used unless the Room to be Wainscoted be above ten foot high as some are eleven or twelve Foot high and then three Heighths of Pannels are used As I The Lying Pannel above the Base K The Large Pannel above the Middle Rail And L The Friese Pannel above the Friese Rail The Friese Rail is to have the same breadth the Margent of the Stile hath The Middle Rail hath commonly two breadths of the
several Members and their Uses are represented viz. aaaa The Legs or Stiles bb The Cheeks or Sides cc The Puppets d The Screw d The Pike e The Rest. f The Handle of the Screw g The Tennants of the Puppets h The Wedge i The Treddle k The Cross-Treddle l The Pole m The String n The Horn. ¶ 1. Of the Legs or Stiles THE Legs or Stiles are commonly about two Foot and ten Inches high and are set perpendicularly upright having each of them a Tennant on its upperend of the thickness the two Ceeks are to stand assunder And on either side the Shoulder of these two Tennants is laid one of the Cheeks close to the sides of the Tennants and so pinned close to the Tennant as was taught Numb 5. § 17. But a steddier and more secure way is to have a strong Iron Screw made with a square Shank near the Head that when it enters into a square hole made fit to it in the hithermost Cheek it may not twist about but by the Turning about of an Iron Nut upon the fore-end of the Screw the Nut shall draw the two Cheeks close to the two sides of the Tennants or the upper ends of the Legs ¶ 2. Of the Cheeks AS I told you the Legs are to be set up directly perpendicular so the Cheeks are to be fastned directly Horizontally upon them And the Legs and Cheeks are to be fastned with Braces to the Floor and other parts of the Room the Lathe stands in according to the convenience of the Room for fastning that the whole Lathe may stand as steddy and solid as may be For if with Turning large Work the strength of the Tread should make the Lathe tremble you will not be able to make true and neat Work but the Tool will job into softer parts of the Stuff and fly off where a Knot or other harder parts of the Stuff comes to the Tool ¶ 3. Of the Puppets THe Puppets are square pieces of Wood of a Substance convenient to the light or heavy work they intend to Turn And Turnners will rather have their Puppets too strong than too weak because though the Puppets be very strong yet they can turn light work with them whereas if they be weak they cannot turn Heavy work with them For the weight of heavy unequal tempered Stuff running about will be apt both to shake the Puppets and loosen the small hole of the Wedge in the Tennant by either of which Inconveniencies the Work in the Lathe may tremble as aforesaid And though no size for the height of the Puppets can be well asserted because of the several Diameters of Work to be Turned yet Workmen generally covet to have their Puppets as short as they well can to bear their Work off the Cheeks of the Lathe because these Puppets stand in the firmer and are less subject to loosen But then if the Diameters of the work be large the Puppets may be too short to Turn that work in For the Pikes of the Puppets must stand somewhat more than half the Diameter of the Work above the superficies of the Cheeks Therefore Turners have commonly two or three pair of Puppets to fit one Lathe and always strive to use the shortest they can to serve their Work unless the shortness of the Leggs of the Lathe makes the workfall too low for the pitch of the Workman that is to work at the Lathe Therefore in the making of the Lathe the height of the Legs with relation to the intended work and height of the Workman are to be well considered At the lower end of these Puppets are made two Tennants of such a thickness that they may easily slide in the Groove between the two Cheeks and so long that a Mortess through it of the length of the Cheeps depth and a sufficient strength of Wood below it may be contained Into this Mortess is fitted a Tapering Wedge somewhat less at the fore end and bigger at the hinder end than the Mortess that as it is forced into the Mortess with a Mallet or a Maul it may draw the bottom Shoulder of the Puppet close and firmly down upon the Cheeks that they may neither joggle or tremble in working ¶ 4. Of the Horn. UPon the Right Hand Puppet on the out side near the top of it is hung the tip-Tip-end of an Horn with its Tip downwards to hold Oyl in and ought to have a Wooden round Cover to fit into it that neither Chips or Dirt get in to spoil the Oyl and in the handle of the Cover should be fitted a wooden Butten which may serve for an Handle to the Cover And through this Butten should be fastned an Iron Wyer to reach almost to the bottom of the Horn This Wyer stands always in the Oyl that so oft as the Workman has occasion to oyl the Centers of the Work to make his work slip about the easier he takes the wooden Cover by the Button Wyer and all and with the end of the Wyer Oyls his Center-holes and pops his-Wyer and Cover again into the Horn against he has occasion to use it the next time ¶ 5. Of the Pikes and Screw NEar the upper end of one of these Puppets is fastned a strong Iron Pike but its point is made of tempered Steel and near the upper end of the other Puppet is fitted an Iron Screw quite through a Nut in the Puppet whose point is also made of Temper'd Steel This Iron Pike in one Puppet and the Screw in the other Puppet are so fitted into the Puppets that their Shanks lie in a straight Line with one another and both their points lie also in that straight Line pointing to one another And in the Head of the Iron Screw is a Hole where-into is fitted an Iron Handle about seven or eight Inches long with a round Knob at each end of it that it slip not through the hole in the Head This Iron Handle is to turn about the Screw forward or backward as your purpose shall require Upon the points of this Screw and Pike the Centers of the Work are pitcht and afterwards screwed with the Screw hard and so far into the Stuff that it may not slip off the points in working especially if it be soft Wood and the work large and heavy Also near the upper end of these Puppets upon that side the Workman stands when he works the Wood of the Puppets is wrought away to square flat shoulders somewhat below the Pikes that the Rest may if occasion be lie near the Pikes and bear steddy upon the Shoulders ¶ 6. Of the Rest. THE Rest is a square piece of Stuff about an Inch or an Inch and half thick and two Inches or two and an half broad and somewhat longer than the distance between the Puppets It s Office is to rest the Tool upon that it may lie in a steddy position while the Workman uses it ¶ 7. Of the Side-Rest BUT besides this Rest
Turnners have another Rest called the Side-Rest This they use when they Turn the flats sides of Boards because the flat sides of Boards standing athwart the Pikes and this Rest standing also athwart the Pikes they can the more conveniently rest their Tool upon it It is marked e in plate 13 and is in the Plate disjunct from the Lathe as well because it and the Common Rest cannot both together be exprest in Picture as also because it is made to take off and put on as occasion requires The Rest is marked a and is a piece of an Oaken plank or Elm plank about two Inches thick and stands so high above the Cheeks of the Lathe as the points of the Pikes do or sometimes a little higher Its Breadth is about a Foot or more or less as the Work requires or the Workman fancies The Bottom of it is firmly nailed to one side of a Quarter of Oak or Elm of about three Inches square and two Foot or two Foot and an half long close to one end as you see in the Figure at b so as the Rest stand upright to the piece of Quartet This piece of Quarter is as a Tennant to slide into a square Iron Collar marked e This square Iron Collar is made so long as to reach through the depth of the Cheeks of the Lathe and to receive the Quarter or Tennant thrust through it above the Cheeks and a Wedge under the Cheeks marked d which Wedge when stiff knock'd up draws the Tennant strong and firmly down to the Cheeks and consequently keeps the Side-rest steddy on any part of the Cheeks according as you slide the Collar forwards or backwards towards either Pike or as you thrust the Rest nearer or farther to and from the Pikes Some Turners for some Work instead of a plank for this Rest fasten to one end of the Quarter or Tennant a long Iron with a round Cilindrick Socket in it as at the Figure marked f in Plate 13 a is the Socket of about an Inch or an Inch and an half Diameter to reach within two or three Inches as high as the Pikes and into this Socket they put a long round Iron Shank as in Figure g of the same Plate a is the Shank and at the top of this Shank is made the Rest marked b. This Shank I say slips easily into the Socket that it may be raised or let down as occasion requires and by the help of a Screw through the Socket at e may be fastned at that length The Rest by reason of its Round Shank may be also turned with its upper edge more or less oblique or athwart the Work or else parallel to the Work according as the purpose may require Near one end of the Rest is fitted and fastned a piece of Wood about an Inch square and ten or twelve Inches long This piece of wood is fitted stiff into a square Hole or Mortess made in the Puppet a little above the Shoulder for the Rest to set the Rest to any distance from the Pikes which with the ends of wooden Screws entred into wooden Nuts on the further side of the Puppet and coming through against the Rest keeps the Rest from being thrust nearer to the work when the Workman is working ¶ 8. Of the Treddle and Cross-Treddle ABout the middle between the ends is placed a wooden Treddle about two Inches and an half broad an Inch thick and three Foot long and sometimes three and an half to four Foot long The hinder end of it is fastned to the Floor with a piece of Leather sometimes a piece of the Upper-leather of an old Shoe which piece of Leather is nailed to the under-side of the hinder end of the Treddle so as to leave Leather enough beyond the end of the Treddle to nail down upon the Floor which Treddle being thus nailed down will move upwards as the Spring of the Pole draws up the String the String being also fastned to the fore-fore-end of the Treddle The hinder end of the Treddle is nailed down about a Foot or a Foot and an half behind the Lathe and about the middle between both the Legs so that the fore-end of the Treddle reaches beyond the fore-side of the Lathe about a Foot and an half or two Foot And note that the farther the Fore-end of the Treddle reaches out beyond the Fore-side of the Lathe the greater will the sweep of the Fore-end of the Treddle be and consequently it will draw the more String down and the more String comes down at one Tread the more Revolutions of the Work is made at one Tread and therefore it makes the greater riddance of the Work But then again if the fore-Fore-end of the Treddle reach too far before the Fore-side of the Lathe it may draw the end of the Pole so low as to break it and it will also be the harder to Tread down because the power commanding which is the weight of the Tread lies so far from the weight to be commanded which is the strength of the Pole augmented by the distance that the end of the Treddle hath from the Work in the Lathe so that you may see that the nearer the Fore-end of the Treddle lies to the Perpendicular of the Work in the Lathe the easier the Tread will be And some Turners that Turn altogether Small Work have the Fore-end of the Treddle placed just under their work so that their String works between the Cheeks of the Lathe But then the Sweep of the Treddle being so small the Pole draws up but a small length of String and consequently makes the fewer Revolutions of the Work in one Tread which hinders the riddance of the Work unless with every Spring of the Pole they should lift their Treading Leg so high as to tire it quickly with binging it down again after it is raised to so uncommodious a position This Tredle hath a square Notch in the middle of the further end about an Inch and an half wide and two Inches long that the end of the String may be wound either off or on the Wood on either side the Notch to lengthen or shorten the String as the different Diameters of the Work shall require About the middle of the Treddle is fixed a round Iron Pin about half an Inch in Diameter so as to stand upright about an Inch and an half or two Inches long above the Treddle And under the Cheeks is also fixed down the Cross-Treddle which is such another piece of Wood as the Treddle is but longer or shorter according to the length of the Lathe And in the middle of the Breadth of the Cross-Treddle is made several holes all a-row to receive the Iron Pin set upright in the Treddle These holes are commonly boared about two or three Inches assunder that the Pin or the Treddle may be put into any one of them according as the String is to be placed nearer to or further off either end of the
Lathe ¶ 9. Of the Pole THE Pole is commonly made of a Fir-pole and is longer or shorter or bigger or smaller according to the weight of the Work the Workman designs to Turn For the thicker the Pole is the harder must the Tread be to bring it down and for this reason if the Pole prove too strong for their common or continued Work they will weaken it by cutting away with a Draw-knife described Numb 7. Plate 8. E and § 5. part of the substance off the upper and under sides of the Pole The thick end of this Pole is nailed or indeed rather pinned up to some Girder or other Timber in the Ceiling of the Room with one single Nail or a Pin that the Pole may move upon that Nail or Pin as on a Center and its thin end pass from one Puppet to the other as the Work may require And at about a Foot distance or more is also nailed up to some Joysts or other Timbers of the Ceiling two Cheeks of a convenient strength and at the lower end of these two Cheeks is nailed a Quarter or Batten to bear the Pole though the weight of a Tread be added to it as you may see at n n in Plate 12. ¶ 10. Of the Side-Rest BUt it sometimes happens that the Ceiling of the Work-room is not high enough for the Pole to play upwards and downwards Therefore in such case they place the thin end of the Pole at some considerable distance off the Lathe either before or behind it and so make the Spring of the Pole Horizantal towards the Lathe conveying and guiding the String from the Pole to the Work by throwing it over a Rowler moving on two Iron Center-pins fastned at both ends and placed parallel to the Cheeks of the Lathe above the Work as high as they can and thus every Tread draws the Rowler about But should the Rowler not move about upon those Iron Pins the String every Tread would both cut a Groove in the Ruler and fret it self more or less upon the Rowler ¶ 11. Of the Bow SOme Turners that work light Work such as Cane-Heads Ink-horns c. for which they need scarce remove the Puppets off their Lathe use a Common Bow such as Archers use The middle of this Bow they fasten over Head with its String Horizontally downwards and in the middle of that String they fasten another String perpendicularly downwards whos 's other end they fasten to the Treddle and the String wound round their Work brings it about ¶ 12. Of the Great Wheel BUt when Turners work Heavy Work such as the Pole and Tread will not command they use the Great Wheel This Wheel is so commonly known that I shall need give you no other description of it than the Figure it self which you may see in Plate 14. a. It is turned about with one and sometimes with two Iron Handles according as the weight of the Work may require It s String hath both its ends strong and neatly fastned together not with a Knot but lapt over one another about three Inches in length and so is firmly whipt about with small Gut that it may the easier pass over the narrow Groove in the edge of the Rowler This String is laid in the Groove made on the edge of the Wheel and also in the Groove of the Work But before it is laid upon both one part of the String is lapt over and crosses the other and the String receives the Form of a Figure of 8 only one of its Bows or Circles becomes no bigger than the Groove in the Work and the other as big as the Groove in the Wheel Then the whole Frame wherein the Wheel is fixed is removed farther off the Lathe that the String may draw tight upon the Work The reason why the String thus crosses it self is because it will touch and gird more upon the Groove of the Work and consequently as was said before ¶ 14. will the better command the Work about The manner of Turning this Wheel is as the manner of Turning other Wheels with Handles Besides the commanding Heavy Work about the Wheel rids Work faster off than the Pole can do because the springing up of the Pole makes an intermission in the running about of the Work but with the Wheel the Work runs always the same way so that the Tool need never be off it unless it be to examine the Work as it is doing When the Wheel is used its Edge stands athwart the Cheeks of the Lathe ¶ 13. Of the Treddle-Wheel THis is a Wheel made of a round Board of about two Foot and an half Diameter conveniently to stand under the Cheeks of the Lathe It also hath a Groove on its Edge for the String to run in it hath an Iron Axis with a Crook or Cranck at one end And on this Crook is slipt the Noose of a Leather T·hong which having its other end fastned to a Treddle does by keeping exact time in Treads carry it swiftly about without intermission But the length of the Thong must be so fitted that when the Wheel stands still and the Crook at the end of the Axis hangs downwards the end of the Treddle to which the Thong is fastned may hang about two or three Inches off the Ground For then giving the Wheel a small turn with the Hand till the Crook rises to the highest and passes a little beyond it if just then I say the Workman gives a quick Tread tpon the Treddle to bring the Crook down again with a jerk that Tread will set it in a motion for several revolutions and then if he observes to make his next Tread just when the Crook comes about again to the same position it will continue the motion and cause of the motion and and keep the Wheel always running the same way if he punctually times his Treads The Treddle Wheel is used for small work only as not having strength enough to carry heavy Work about such as Cane-Heads Small Boxes c. and it is fitted below the Cheeks between the Puppets as the Bow is above Besides these Inventions to carry about the Work in the Lathe there are many more as with a great Iron Wheel having Teeth on its edge which Teeth are to fall into an Iron Nut upon an Iron Axis pitcht upon the Pikes of the Puppets of the Lathe or fitted into Collars c. Also for very Heavy Work as Guns Great Mortars c. Wheels turn'd with Wind Water or Horses to carry the Work about Of which more in their proper places ¶ 14. Of the String UPon the thin end of the Pole is wound a considerable Bundle of String That as a Mandrel requires to be bigger than ordinary or the Work heavier they may unwind so much of the String as will compass the Mandrel twice or if the Work be heavy thrice the easier to carry it about This String is made of the Guts of Beasts most commonly of
Grain upwards and downwards as it grew It hath three Leges in it that stand stradling out from the underside of the Block to the Floor and of such an height as the Workman may have most Command of the Work See the Figure Sometimes Turners use instead of it a piece of the Trunk of a Tree of about a Foot and an half or two Foot in length from the Ground or more or less § XI Of the Callippers THE Callippers is marked O in Plate 13. As common Compasses described Numb 6. § 32. are for measuring Distances upon a plain Superficies so Callippers measure the distance of any round Cilindrick Conical Body either in their Extremity or any part less than the Extream So that when Workmen use them they open the two points a a to their described width and Turn so much Stuff off the intended place till the two points of the Callippers fit just over their Work so shall their Work have just the Diameter in that place as is the distance between the two points of the Callippers be it either Feet or Inches c. § XII Of the Drill-Bench THere is yet another Tool or rather a Machine used by some Turners called a Drill-Bench It is described in Plate 14. a a a a a thick Board about three Inches thick five Inches broad and eighteen Inches long b b two Stiles placed towards either end and fastned upright In the hithermost Stile is a Coller described § 7. and Plate 13. H or any of the other Collers And in the further Stile is fitted a square flat tempered piece of Steel having a Center-hole in the middle of it and is placed just against the Center or middle point of the Hole of the Coller c c the Rowler whose hither end is Turned away so as it just fit into the Coller and at the further end of it it hath a temper'd Steel Pin to be placed in the Center-hole And in the middle of the hither end of it it hath a Piercer-Bit fastned straight in so that it lie in a true straight Line with the Axis of the Rowler Of these Rowlers they have several and Bits of different sizes fitted into them that upon all occasions they may chuse one to fit their purpose On the under-side about the middle of the Bench is fitted and fastned athwart it a square Iron Coller deep enough to reach through the Cheeks of the Lathe and so much deeper as it may receive a Wooden Wedge such a one as belongs to one of the Puppets And by the force and strength of the Wedge the whole Drill-bench is drawn down and fastned athwart the Cheeks of the Lathe When it is used it stands athwart the Cheeks of the Lathe as aforesaid with the point or end of the Bit towards you and then the String being turned twice or thrice about the Rowler will with Treading on the Treddle turn the Rowler and its Bit forcibly about and cause it to enter swiftly into a piece of Wood that shall be prest forwards upon the Bit. When they use it they hold the piece of Wood they intend to Drill or Pierce fast in both their Hands right before them and press it forwards upon the Piercer-Bit so that by its running about it cuts a straight round hole into the Wood of what length they please But while the Pole is rising after every Tread they press not against the Piercer-Bit so that it is dis-ingaged from doing its Office in the Wood but in that while they nimbly give the Wood a turn in their hands of about one third part of its Circumference which makes the Bit very successive Tread go the straighter through the middle of the Wood And thus they reiterate Treads and keep the Wood turning in their Hands till the Bit is enter'd deep enough Thus much of the Tools used in common Turning I shall proceed to the Working a Pattern or two in Soft Wood which being well understood may render a Practicer capable of most common Work § XIII Of Turning a Cilinder in Soft Wood THE Soft Wood Turners Use is commonly either Maple Alder Birch Beech Elm Oak Fir c. and for some particular purposes each of these sorts are best The First Pattern we purpose shall be a Cilinder two Inches over and eight Inches long Therefore you must chuse a piece of Wood at lest two Inches and a quarter over lest you want Stuff to work upon Nay if your Stuff prove shaken or otherwise unsound or your Center be not very exactly pitcht you may want yet more Stuff and that according as it proves more or less faulty or as the Centers are more unequally pitcht But supposing the Stuff good you may take a piece of two Inches and a quarter over as I said before and about ten or eleven Inches long For though the length of the Cilinder be but eight Inches yet you must cut your Stuff long enough to make a Groove at one end of it besides for the String to run in If your Stuff be somewhat too big for your Scantlin and not round enough to go into the Lathe you must Hew it pretty near with the Hatchet to make it sizable and afterwards smoothen it nearer with a Draw-knife as you were taught Numb 7. § 5. But if you have not Stuff at hand near your size then you must Saw off your length from a Billet or some other piece of Stuff and with the Cleaving-knife and the Mawl split it into a square piece near the size and with the Draw-knife round off the Edges to maks it fit for the Lathe Then set your Puppets and wedge them tight up so as the Points of your Spikes stand pretty near the length of your Work assunder and move the Pole so as the end of it may hang over between the Pikes and also fit the Iron Pin in the Treddle into a proper Hole in the Cross-Treddle so as the end of the Treddle may draw the String below the Work into pretty near a straight Line with the string above the Work And take the Work in your Right hand and put it beyond the String before you and with your left hand wind the String below the Work but once about the Work lest it should be too strong for your shallow Centers as you shall understand by and by and then with a pretty strength press the middle of one end of your Work over the Point of one of the Pikes and so make a hole in your Work for one of the Center holes Then screw your Pike wider or closer according as the length of your Work requires and pitch the other end of your Work upon the other Pike also and screw your Work a little lightly up Then try how the Centers are pitcht by Treading the Treddle lightly down and if you find the Centers are well pitcht you may without more ado screw up your Work tight But if your Centers or either of them be not well pitcht
you must alter them You may know when they are well pitcht by treading softly upon your Treddle and holding your Finger steddy on the Rest direct the point of it pretty close to the Work For if in a Revolution of your Work its Outside keeps it an equal distance from the end of your Finger you may conclude your Work is well pitcht But if you find one side of your Work comes nearer your Finger than the other side you must with your Flat Chissel or Gouge or what is nearest at hand knock softly or hard upon that side that comes nearest to your Finger till you have forc'd the Pikes into the true Centers at the end of your Work and then you may boldly screw it hard up But you must be sure to screw it hard up because it is Soft Wood you purpose to work upon and the strength of the Pole may endanger the drawing or removing the Centers if the Pikes have not good hold of them Having found your Centers take your Work again off the Pikes and wind the String once or twice more about your Work that your String as I said in Numb 10. § 1. when I wrote of the String may the better command it and then wind off or on more String at the end of your Pole or end of your Treddle or both if your Work require it till the Pole draws the Treddle up a little above half the length of the Legs of the Lathe For about the height your Leg may without sudden trying command the Pole down again But before you begin to work upon the Stuff I shall inform you how to Tread the Treddle In which you may observe this General Rule That the nearer the Fore-end of the Treddle you Tread the easier you bring down the Pole But then the Pole in its Spring rases your Leg the higher and may draw the upper side of your Thigh against the underside of the Cheek of the Lathe and with reiterated Risings Gawl and also tire your Thigh Place therefore your Foot steddy upon the Treddle so far forward as you can to avoid the Poles Rising from drawing your Thigh against the underside of the Lathe and Tread the Treddle nimbly down but not quite so low as to knock against the Floor Then abate the weight of your Tread and let the Pole draw the Treddle up but still keep your Foot steddy and lightly Bearing upon the Treddle For then your succeeding Treads will prove easier to your Leg and Thigh and you will with your Foot the better and quicker command the Treddle Then Tread again nimbly down as before and keep this Train of Treading till your Work be finish'd or that you may have occasion to stop and examine how rightly you proceed In all small Work the Tread is lightly and nimbly performed but in large and heavy Work the Tread comes slow and heavily down This being premised you may begin with your Gouge Lay the Round side of it upon the Rest and take the Handle of it in your Right hand and lay the Fore and Middle Fingers of your Left Hand upon the Hollow of the Gouge near the Work mounting the Edge about a quarter of an Inch above the Axis of your Work and sinking your Right hand a little for in this position the Gouge cuts best And thus cut down on your Work near one end a Groove for your String to run in The Groove may be about an Inch or an Inch and an half long But it matters not much what depth Then slip your String into the Groove and if you find the String will not slip easily you may put your Foot under the Treddle and lift it a little up that the String when no weight is hanged to it may slide the easier into the Groove And by the way you may take notice that the deeper you cut down the Groove the oftner will your Work come about every Tread because the String that comes down every Tread measure a small Circumference oftner than it does a greater Circumference But then the Work is not so strongly carried about because it hath a less portion of the String to command it This I hint not that in this our small proposed Pattern it is very considerable For if you only cut the Groove down but so low as there may be a Shoulder at the end and another against the Work to keep the String from slipping out of the Groove it will be sufficient But in heavy Work this Groove ought to be cut with discretion Now come to the Forming of your Work and hold your Gouge as you were taught before but somewhat lightly against your Work beginning at one end and sliding your Gouge gradually to the other cutting with its Edge all the way you go and bearing somewhat stiff against the Work every Tread you make on the Treddle And withdrawing it again a little lightly from the Work every Spring of the Pole And thus by Use you must habituate your self to let the Edge of your Tool bear upon the Work when the Pole and Treddle comes down and to draw it back just off the Work as the Pole and Treddle goes up And thus you must continue till you have rough-wrought all your work from end to end If you have not at first brought your Work clean that is if you have not gone deep enough with your Gouge to take off all the Risings of the Stuff the Draw-knife left even with the smallest part of your Work you must in like manner as before work it over again But you must have a special Care you take not too much Stuff away on any part of the whole Work For this proposed Pattern being a Cilinder if you take but a small matter too much away from any part and make it smaller than your given measure there the whole Work will be spoiled as being smaller than the proposed Diameter which to know you may by opening the Points of your Callippers to two Inches on your Rule the proposed Diameter of your Cilinder try if the Points at that distance will just slip over the deepest Grooves of your Work for we will not suppose that the Grooves are of an equal depth with the Rough-working of the Gouge without straining the Joint for then your Work is just sizeable If not work over again as before c. But we will now suppose you have not taken too much away but have made a due process with your Gouge Therefore now proceed and use a Flat Chissel about an Inch and an half broad to take off the Irregularities the Gouge left Take the Handle of it in your Right Hand as you did the Gouge and clasping the Blade of it in your Left Hand lean it steddy upon the Rest holding the Edge a little assant over the Work so as a Corner of the thin side of the Chissel may bear upon the Rest and that the Flat side of the Chissel may make a small Angle with
the Rest and consequently with the Work which is parallel to the Rest for should you set the edge of the Chissel parallel to the Work it might run too fast into the Work and dawk it Therefore you must set the Chissel in such a position that the lower Corner or near the lower Corner of the edge may cut lightly upon the Work But this position is best described by a Figure which to that purpose I have inserted in Plate 14. at O where you may perceive in or near what position the Chissel must be set to cut the Work and how the edge of the Chissel a b lying aslant the Work and the further Corner of the edge of the Chissel b being somewhat mounted as the Work comes about the Bottom or near the Bottom of the edge of the Chissel is only capable to cut a narrow Shaving off the Work and just in this manner you must keep the Chissel steddy bearing upon the Work as the Pole comes down and withdrawing it from the Work as the Pole Springs up as you were taught to use the Gouge and at the same time sliding it forwards from one end of the Work to the other till it be wrought down all the way to its true Diameter between the points of the Callippers For then a straight Ruler applied to your Work the outside of your proposes Cilinder will be formed Only the ends must be cut down square to the length Therefore open the points of your Compasses to the distance of eight Inches on your Rule and prick that distance hard off upon your Work that the points of your Compasses may leave visible marks by placing one point as near one end as you can to leave Stuff enough to cut straight down all the way that is to cut it square down at right Angles with the outside of the Work Which to do you must hold the Handle of the Flat Chissel in your Right hand as before and clasp the Blade of it in your Left and lay one of the thin sides of it upon the Rest so that the edge may stand upright or very near upright against the Work Then sink your Right hand somewhat below the Level of the Rest that the lower Corner of the edge of the Chissel may mount and being thrust steddy against the Work just in the mark one Point of the Compasses made Tread the Treddle and cut a pretty deep Circle into the Stuff But you must have a care you do not direct the cutting Corner of the Chissel inwards but rather outwards left you make the end hollow instead of Flat For if you do take off too little at first you may by degrees cut it down to a Flat afterwards As you cut deeper into the Stuff you must turn the Flat of the Chissel and with it cut down the Shoulder just at the end on the outside the mark for else that may hinder the Corner of the Edge of the Chissel for coming at the Work Note that if you hold not the edge of the Chissel truly before the Work but direct it inwards and if you hold it not very steddy and have a good guidance of it the quick coming about of the Work may draw the edge of the Chissel into it inwards and run a dawk on Cilinder like the Grooves of a Screw and so spoil your Work For being once wrought to the true size you cannot afterwards take any more off to cleanse it c. The other end must be cut down as this § 14. Of Turning Flat Boards IF your Board be thick enough you may boar a round Hole in the middle of it and Turn a Mandrel with a Pin a very little Tapering to fit hard and stiff into the round Hole And if the Hole and Pin be proportionable in size to the weight of the Board the Pin will carry it about But you must be very careful the Hole be boared exactly straight through the middle and not inclining on either side the Board more to any part of the Verge than to another but that the middle of the Hole be exactly the Center of the Board the whole thickness through This Pin-Mandrel is described Numb 11. § 6. and Plate 13. If your Board be not thick enough to be fastned upon a Pin-Mandrel or that your Work will not admit of an Hole to be bored through the middle of it you may use the Flat Mandrel described Plate 13. F 2. And then you must with your Compasses find the Center on the backside of the Round Board with several proffers if need require till you have found it and prick there an Hole for a mark Then open the points of your Compasses to about the thickness of a Shilling wider than the Semidiameter of the Flat Mandrel and with the points of your Compasses at that distance describe a Circle on the backside of the Board to be Turned by placing one Foot in the prick mark and turning about the other Foot By this Circle you may pitch the Center of the Board exactly upon the Center of the Flat Mandrel For the points of the Compasses being opened about the thickness of a Shilling wider than the Semidiameter of the Flat Mandrel will when you have pitcht the Center of the Board on the Center of the Mandrel place the outer Verge of the Mandrel the thickness of a Shilling round about within the Circle described on the backside of the Board And when it is thus pitcht you may by laying the Board flat down knock upon the Rowler end of the Mandrel and drive the Pegs in the flat of the Mandrel into the Board and so hold it steddy upon the Mandrel Then find the Center on the Foreside of the Board also as you were taught to find the Center on the backside and put your Board and Mandrel upon the Pikes of the Puppets and screw them hard up as you have been taught before Sometimes Turners use this Flat Mandrel without Pegs and then they chalk the Flat side of it very well and clap the backside of the Board to it which will if the Board to be Turned be not too heavy but be well screwed up between the Pikes keep the Board steddy from slipping from its set-position till you work it If in going about of your Work you find it Wabble that is that one side of the Flat incline either to the Right or Left Hand you must with soft Blows of an Hammer or other Tool at hand set it to right and then again screw it hard up For so often as you thus strike upon the Verge to set the Board true you force the Steel point of the Pike more or less according to the softness of the Wood towards that side of the Verge you strike upon and therefore you may perceive a reason for screwing up the Pike so oft as you knock upon the outer Verge of the Board But we will now suppose the Board well pitcht and fastned on the Mandrel
or sometimes three Studs upon this Plate one near each end and the other in the middle to Rivet into the Main-plate to keep the Ward fixt in its place Therefore you must take care when you elect this thin piece of Plate that it be broad enough for the Ward and these Studs too Then laying the Plate a-thwart the Pike of the Bickern hold your hand even with the face of the Bickern and hammer this Plate down somewhat by the side of the Pike and by degrees you may with care taken bring it unto a circular form just of the size of that Circle you described on the Main-Plate which when you have done you must apply this Ward to the Circle you described on the Main-Plate setting it in the position you intend it shall be fixed and marking with a steel Point where the Studs stand upon that Circle in those marks punch holes to Rivet the Studs to Work so by all the other Wards If you have a Pin to the Lock Punch a hole through the Centre on the Cover-Plate somewhat smaller than the Wyre you are to make your Pin of because you may then file one end of the Pin away to a Shank which must fit the smaller hole on the Plate and the whole thickness of the Pin will be a Sholder which will keep the Pin steddy in the Centre-hole of the Plate when the Pin is Rivetted into the Plate But because there is some Skill to be used in Rivetting I shall before I proceed any farther teach you The manner of Rivetting Rivetting is to batter the Edges of a Shank over a Plate or other Iron the Shank is let into so as the Plate or other Iron may be clinched close and fixed between the battering at the end of the Shank and the Sholder So that When you Rivet a Pin into a hole your Pin must have a Sholder to it thicker than the hole is wide that the Sholder slip not through the hole as well as the Shank but the Shank of the Pin must be exactly of the size of the hole the Shank must be Rivetted into and somewhat longer than the Plate is thick file the end of the Shank flat so shall the Edges of the end the easilier batter over the Plate then put your Shank into the hole wherein it is to be Rivetted but be sure you force the Shank close up to the Sholder then turn the top of this Sholder downwards Plate and all upon your Stake but lay it so as that the Sholder lie solid and the Shank at the same time stand directly upright and with your left hand keep your work bearing hard upon the flat or face of the Stake Then holding your hammer in your right hand hold the edge of the face of it dripping a-slope from the right hand outwards and lay pretty light blows upon the edge of the end of the Shank turning with your left hand your work round to the face of the Hammer till you have battered the edges of the Shank quite round about but this is seldom done with once turning your work about therefore you may thus work it round again and again till you find it is pretty well Rivetted then lay heavier blows upon it sometimes with the face sometimes with the Pen of the hammer till the end of the Shank is battered effectually over the Plate One main consideration in Rivetting is that the Pin you rivet in stand upright to the Plate or other Iron you rivet it upon for if it do not stand upright you will be forced to set it upright after it is rivetted either in the Vice or with your Plyers or with your Hammer and that may if your Plate be thin bow it or if it be thick break the Sank or else the Sholder of your Rivet and so you lose your labour and sometimes spoil your Work Another consideration is that when you rivet a Pin to any Plate and you fear it may afterwards twist about by some force that may be offered it you must to provide against this danger file the Shank you intend to Rivet either Square or Triangular and make the hole in the Plate you rivet it into of the same size and form and then rivet in the Shank as before There are two ways to make your Hole Square or Triangular one is by filing it into these forms when it is first Punched round the other by making a Punch of Steel of the size and shape of the Shank you are to rivet and punching that punch into the Plate make the same form Now to return where I left off The Pins and Shanks of these Wards must be made of a long square form because the Plates of the Wards being thin should you make them no broader than the Plate is thick the Studs or Shanks would be too weak to hold the Wards therefore you must make the Rivetting-shank three or four times or sometimes more as broad as the Plate is thick and then rivet them in as you were taught just now Then place the Cover-plate upon the Main-plate so as the Centre of the Cover-plate may stand directly over and against the Centre of the Main-plate and make marks through the hole GG of the Studs of the Cover-plate upon the Main-plate and on those marks Punch holes and fit two Pins into them to fasten the Cover-plate on to the Main-plate but you must not yet rivet them down till the Key-hole be made because this Cover-plate would then stop the progress of the File through the Main-plate when you file the Key-hole When you have placed the Cover-plate upon the Main-plate and fitted it on with Pins so as you may take it off and put it on again as your Work may require you must Punch the key-hole or rather drill two holes close by one another if the Key-hole falls near the Wards because Punching may be apt to set the Wards out of form and with small Files file the two holes into one another to make the hole big enough to come at it with bigger Files and then file your Key-hole to your intended size and shape The Key-hole being finished forge your Key as you were taught Numb I. fol. 8. and if your Key is to have a Pin-hole drill the hole in the middle of the end of the shank then file the Wards or Slits in the Bit with thin Files yet sometimes Smiths Punch or Cut them with a Cold-Chissel at the same distances from the middle of the Pin-hole in the end of the Shank which is the same Centre which was made before in the Main-plate on the Cover-plate which you placed the Wards at from the Centre of the Main and Cover-plate But before you file these Wards too deep into the Bit of the Key make trials by putting the Bit into the Key-hole whether the Wards in the Bit will agree with the Wards on the Plates which if they do you may boldly cut them to the depth of the Wards