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A64318 The compleat gunner in three parts : part I. shewing the art of founding and casting ... the composition and matters of gunpowders ... : part II. discovers the necessary instruments ... to the compleating of a gunner ... : pt. III. shews the nature of fire-works / translated out of Casimir, Diego, Uffano, Hexan, and other authors; to which is added The doctrine of projects applyed to gunnery by those late famous authors Galilæus and Torricellio now rendred into English ; together with some excellent observations out of Mersennus and other famous authors. 1672 (1672) Wing T65; ESTC R29235 142,431 179

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your self just between your third Staff and your first mark there set up your fourth Staff then resort to your Angle again and standing behind the second Staff note whither a right line from the Angle to that notch before made on the subtendent Staff or side of the Triangle will direct you for that way precisely shall you go on until you come in a right line with the second and third Staff and erect there the fifth Staff this done measure the distance between the second and third Staff reserving that for a Divisor then multiply your distance between the first and third Staff by the distance between the fourth and fifth Staff the product divide by your reserved Divisor and it yieldeth in the Quotient the true distance between the two marks Example Let A B be the distance I would know C my first Station where the first Staff is erected I my Triangle made of three Staves and placed at the Station C directed with one of the containing sides to A which is the first mark as you may see in the Figure and with the other side to D and E the second and third Staves H is the notch or mark upon the side subtended to the Angle where the line visual from C passeth to the second mark B my Triangle now I scituate at D as it was before at C the one contained side lying even with the erected Staves the other directed to my fourth Staff F placed in a right line with E the third Staff and A the first mark Again my line visual proceeding from D to H the notch in the subrended side of the Angle is extended to my fifth Staff G scituated exactly between E the third Staff and B the other mark This done I measure the distance between my second and third Staff finding it 20 foot likewise between the fourth and fifth Staff and find it 72 foot finally between the first and third Staff 65 paces so that according to the Rule before given multiplying 65 by 72 I have 4680. which divided by 20 yieldeth in the Quotient 234 and so many paces is there between A and B. I have not set out the Figures in just proportions answering to these numbers for that is not requisite but in such form as may best open and make manifest the scituation of the Staves and Triangle wherein consists all the difficulty of this Practice CHAP. X. How you may readily find out the distance to any Tower Castle Forts c. by help of the former Quadrant LEt the Quadrant be made upon a square Board as is there marked A D B Q. Let D B be divided into 90 Degrees or equal parts and instead of the 12 equal parts or right and contrary shadows g m and h m let the two sides D Q and B Q be divided each into 1200 equal parts or as many as you please and marked from the Center A and have a Ruler or Index to be moved round upon the Center A● having two sights upon it set just upon the feducial line of the Index and let it be divided into such equal parts as the Lymb B Q or D Q. Let this Instrument thus fitted be handsomly placed upon its Staff or otherwise lay the feducial of your Index upon the beginning of the Degrees of the Quadrant and turn your whole Instrument the Index not moved till you may espy through the sight your mark then remove your Index to the contrary side of the Quadrant placing the line feducial on the side line where the degrees end and look through the sights and in that very line set up a mark a certain distance the farther the better this done take away your Instrument and set up a Staff there and remove the Instrument to the mark you espyed set your Index on the beginning of the Degrees moving your whole Instrument till you find through the Sights the Staff at the first Station then remove your Index your Quadrant keeping its place till you may again espy through the Sights your mark which done note the Degrees cut by the line feducial and then work thus upon some even smooth Superficies whether it be Board Plate or Paper Draw first a streight line and open your Compasses to some small distance call that space a score and make so many such divisions upon your Line as there is scores between your Stations then upon the end of your line raise a perpendicular and fixing one foot of your Compasses at the other end opening it to what wideness you please draw an Arch rising from the same line that represents your Stationary distance and dividing it into 90 equal parts or Degrees as you was taught in the making your Quadrant extend from the Center to the number of Degrees cut by your feducial line a right line until it concur with the perpendicular before erected then see how much of that space which representeth the score in dividing your Stationary distance is contained in the perpendicular so many score is the mark off from your first Station and by dividing the Hypothenusal line you may find the Distance from the second Station Example A the first Station C the second D the mark A C 80 paces Degrees of the Quadrant cut by the line feducial at the second Station is 71 d. ½ and H is the unity or measure representing one score E F 4 parts G F 12 G E 12 ⅔ or thereabouts Thus may you conclude the mark to be distant from the first Station 12 score paces the Hypothenusal line or distance of the mark from the second Station 12 score and 13 paces See the Figure To perform this Work by Calculation In the foregoing Figure B is the place to be measured A the mark where I first disposed my Instrument from it I go Orthogonally to C the Index suppose cuts there 400 in the right side of your square the distance between B and C I have supposed 80 paces wherefore multiply 1200 by 80 and there cometh 96000 wh●ch divided by 400 declareth unto me 240 paces the true length from A to B. Or by dividing 1440000 the square of 1200 with 400 the parts cut you shall produce in the Quotient 3600 your proportionable part found by the Rule of Reduction which augmented in 80 yieldeth 288000 and that divided by 1200 bringeth in the Quotient 240 which is the length A B agreeing with the former operation But if you would find C B or the Hypothenusal line being the distance between the second Station and the mark then by the former Table of Squares or with your Pen find the Square of A C and the Square A B the distance already found from the first Station these two Squares added together the Square Root of that Sum is the distance C B viz. 253 paces or if the Sum of the Square of A B and A C be sought for in the Table of Squares you will find against it 253 paces the length of C B which was
equal But if you should perceive that the Ghynne or any part give way presently let your Piece sink and underlay and settle well the feet of the Ghynne and that as gently as may be to the end the Cross beam or Rouler may not be disjoyned or broken Then wind it up carefully and very gently by the help of two men onely and in such a manner as when one of the Leavers is brought down it must be held there fast until the other has got purchase and then must this other also be brought down this must be reiterated so often until it be so high that the Carriage may be placed under it so that the Trunions may fall into the Sockets or holes of the Carriage and then Guide the Piece by the Spar so that it fa●l easily in and so rest it self in the Carriage and then let it be well clasped over and then locked in and fastned with Forelocks and so you may draw away your Piece where you please On board Ships this Ghynne is not of use it being the Boatswains business to fix a Tackle that may be able to hoist up any Piece into its Carriage the Slings one part must come about the Casacabel and the other part about a Billet so made that it may fit in at the Muzzle and by strength of hands or by help of a Windless or Capstain it may be hoysed up so that the Carriage may be brought under so that the Gun being Loared its Trunions may fall in to the holes of the Carriage which then clasp over with its Iron Clasps let them be Forelocked and then with Hand-Tackles be brought where you please See the Figure of the Gynne and the Field and Ship-Pieces mounted in the Figure 11. CHAP. VI. The way to draw a Piece of Ordnance with the necessary things thereunto belonging both for Land and Sea SEeing we have discovered the way of Casting a Piece and Mounting it in its Carriage it follows in the next place that in this Chapter we treat of and shew the manner of drawing them from place to place for Service where care must be taken what the way is that you are to pass for if the way be foul moorish and dirty there is then required as many more Horses as in good wayes That is For a whole Cannon of 8000 l. you may use 15 couple of Horses besides the Tyllar For a Demi-Cannon of about 6000 l. you may use 11 couple of Horses besides the Tyllar For a Piece of 4000 l. weight you may use 8 couple of Horses besides the Tyllar For a Field Piece of about 3000 l. use 6 couple of Horses besides the Tyllar For a Saker of 1800 l. weight you may use 4 couple of Horses besides the Tyllar For a Piece of 1500 l. weight you may use 3 couple of Horses besides the Tyllar For a Faucon two couple of Horses besides the Tyllar For a small Drake of about 250 l. one Horse will serve and by the same Rule you may find how many Horses will draw any weight whatsoever Many times when Horses are wanting men are made use of Upon such occasions you must divide your men into three drawing files according to the greatness of the Piece now to the end the Ranks may spread and every man may draw equally alike fasten to the end of the Carriage a Cross beam or bar to which you must fasten the drawing Ropes equally at such distance that one may not impead the other and let there be besure one to steer the Piece when you come to any winding or turning If the drawing Ropes be long 't is necessary to cross it with Ropes or some light peeces of wood like a Ladder with two or more cross peeces let them be made fast for the better and more steady drawing and to every there must be a Neck-line fastned to the Ropes and so to cast over every mans Sholders in manner as is used to draw our Western Barges And you must know your proportion of men fit to draw any Piece of Ordnance and that must be regulated according to the goodness or badness of the way and so more or less men allowing every man to draw about 50 60 or 80 pounds for 't is supposed a man may draw in ordinary way 50 or 60 pounds but in very good way more than 80 pounds however 't is good to have men enough Let the Spunge Ladle c. be made fast along the Piece to the Ring and Britch end Sometimes by reason of the unevenness steepness or other defects of the way it sometimes happens that you may be forc'd to dismount your Piece and remount it again there 't is necessary every Gunner have with him a Ghynne a Wynche and all appurtenances necessary thereunto As to the Sea Gunner on board Ship their occasions require no more than the Wynch and their Piece being mounted according to the directions given in the former Chapter then with one or two Tackles he bring the Piece to the place desired where it ought to be well fastned in its place for which purpose there is thereunto required Tack●es and Britchins and in case of foul weather or that any of the Gee● or Tackling be suspected or by my much tumbling every thing hanging upon the Nail for fear any Bolts should give way or draw it i● usual to nail down to the Deck with Spikes one Coyne behind each Truck or at least the after Trucks which to great Pieces are commonly dead Trucks so that each Piece may have little or no play But in case any thing should give way in foul weather then with all speed dismount the Piece as soon as possible you can for fear of further mischief for which purpose put in his way as he runs from side to side Rugs Pillows Beds c and stand ready with Crows and Handspikes and with Tackles to hitch or ketch him close and fast to any Ring by the Ship side or such other place as best presents As for the length of the Tackles useful it is usually known thus see how long the Piece is and make the Tackles four times as long and let the Britchin be twice the length of the Piece and something more The manner of drawing of Pieces by Man and Horse you will see in the third Figure CHAP. VII To Grove or Examine the goodness of a Piece of Ordnance whether it be Flawed Hony-Combed Crackt Chamber-bor'd c. With the difference of Common Legitimate and Bastard Pieces IT remains necessary for this Chapter to treat or shew the way to know whether a Piece be serviceable or no which is usually done in the first proof by Powder which we intend not to Write of here having mentioned it before and more will be said when we have shewed the composition of Powder That knowledge of a Piece we here intend is to examine a Piece bought or to be taken into Service whether good or serviceable or out of many
proportionably must be allowed for Pieces of greater or lesser weight The 12 Pounders fortified of Brass of 3200 l. for Guns of this weight and nature is usually allowed 3 ounces and a half for every hundred weight of Metal Demy-Culverin Brass of 3300 l. there is allowed by the Tower for Pieces of Ordnance of this nature 3 ounces and a half and somthing more to every hundred weight of Metal the which is approved a very sufficient Allowance Demy-Culverin Drakes of 2900 l. is allowed by most two ounces three quarters to each hundred weight of metal which will be durable in time of Service Saker fortified Brass of 2000 l. is allowed 3 ounces and somthing more for every hundred weight of Metal but there may be a small abatement in time of Service CHAP. XXVII To know whether a Piece of Ordnante be truly bored or no. YOu must provide a Pike-staff about a foot longer than the bore of the Piece and at the end thereof fasten a Rammer head that will just fill all the bore to the touch hole and at the other end of the staff you must bore a hole big enough to put through a Rod of Iron which must hand from the same and at the other end of the Rod must be made a weight about the bigness of a Saker Shot this is done to make the Pike-staff and Rammer head to lie with the same side upward when they are taken out of the Piece as they did when they were within the Piece then you must put your Instrument thus prepared into the Piece letting the Iron Ball that is at the end of the Rod which is put through the hole bored a cross the Pike-staff hand perpendicular then take your priming Iron or some other bodkin and put it down the touch hole to the Rammer head making a mark therewith this done draw out your Instrument and lay the same on a long Table with the Iron Ball hanging off the end perpendicular as it did when the Instrument was in the Piece then observe whether the mark you made upon the Rammer head when it was in the Piece be just upon the uppermost part of the same if it be the bore of the Piece lies neither to the right hand nor to the left but if you find it any thing to the right or left hand so much lyeth the bore either to the right or left and the Piece in Shooting must be ordered and charged accordingly But if you would know whether the bore lie more upwards or downwards then bend a Wire at the very end so that it being put in at the very touch hole may ketch at the metal when it is drawn out then put the Wire down the touch hole till it touch the bottom of the metal in the Chamber then holding it in that place make a mark upon the wire just even with the touch hole after draw up the wire until it ketch at the metal on the top of the Chamber and holding it there make a mark as before the difference between the two marks is the just wideness of the Chamber and the distance between the first mark and the end of the Wire having half the Diameter of the Chamber of the Piece substracted from it will leave half the Diameter of the Piece if the Piece be true bored but if the Piece's number be more than half the Diameter of the Piece the bore lieth too far from the touch hole and the upper part of the metal is thickest but if lesser the lower part of the metal is thickest or hath most metal CHAP. XXVIII Of the necessary Instruments for a Gunner with several other necessary things A Master Gunner intending upon service ought most chiefly to be prepared with these Instruments as Calabers Compasses height board Sight Rule Gunners Scale and a Gunners quadrant to divide as well into 12 as 90 equal parts with a Geometrical Square to make Montures Levels heights Breadths Distances and Profundities of which you shall read more in the Second Part also with a little brass Level Scales Weights Priming-Irons Moulds to make Cross-bar Shot for Musquets a Book of Accompts and an Iron wire or Spring and a Transome to dispart a Piece of Ordnance that the Transome may go up and down according to the Diameter and thickness of the Piece let the Transom be long enough to reach the base Ring from the touch hole In the next place he ought to be very expert in the knowledg of cutting out making up and finishing all sorts of Ladles Spunges Rammers Cartredges c. For which purpose you may have Recourse to the foregoing Table And because it may somtimes happen by reason of the steepness badness and unevenness of the way you may be driven to dismount and remount your Piece e're you get up to the top of a Hill therefore you must carry with you a Gynn and a Wynch with all the appurtenances thereunto belonging as wind Ropes an Iron Goats-foot with a Crow Pins Truckles Pullies to help you at a dead lift CHAP. XXIX The making of Rammers Spunges Ladles and Cartredges Formers Carriages Wheels Trucks c. with the Height of Shot fit for any Piece FOr the better expedition of this work we have in the former Table shewed the length and breadth of each Ladle always remembring that you cut each Ladle somewhat longer that is allowing so much more as must be fastned to the staff or so much as the staff goes within the Plate The Buttons or heads of the Ladles must be near the height of the shot For Spunges the bottoms and heads must be of soft wood as Birch and Willow and to be one Diameter and three quarters in length and three quarters or very little less of the height covered with Sheeps skin and nayled with Copper nayles so that together they may fill the hollow of the Piece Let the bottoms and heads of the Rammers be made of good hard wood and the height one Diameter of the Shot and the length one third of the Diameter of the Shot To make Ladles for Chamber bor'd Pieces open your Compasses to the just Diameter of the Chamber within one eighth part of an Inch Divide that measure in two equal parts then set the measure to one of them and by that distance upon a flat or paper draw a Circle the Diameter of that Circle is one fourth part shorter than the Diameter of the Chamber Take three fifths of that Circle for the breadth of the Plate of the Ladle But for Cannon the length ought to be twice and two third parts to hold at twice the just Diameter of the Powder As for Example The Diameter of a Circle drawn for a Cannon whose Chamber bore is 7 Inches containeth six and three quarters the circumference whereof is 21 Inches 6 7 and three fourth parts thereof is 12 ¾ and so much ought the Ladle to be in breadth and in length 18 ⅔ parts By this Rule you may
Gunners upon some occasions to use Disparts between the Trunions of their Pieces made of a just height on purpose to serve that place by the method we have even now prescribed and let them be tyed about the Piece with a twine because else at every Shot they will be to seek when upon a suddain they should use them and they will much avail and stand them in great stead I could express other wayes only I think these sufficient CHAP. XVI How to give Level with a Piece of Ordnance to make a Shot at any Mark assigned SEt your dispart on the Muzzle Ring just over the Center of the mouth of the Piece which you may best do by putting a stick cross the bore and dividing it into two equal parts then with a Plumb line hanging over the mouth of the Piece being guided by the divided stick you shall have good aim where to set your Dispart this being done go to the Base Ring if the Piece be true bored then find which is the highest part and middle of that Ring but if the Piece be not true bored then find which part of the Base Ring is just over the Cylender and take that for your true line when you have found out the dispart and placed it and also found what point in the Base Ring is to answer to it then make some very small mark on the Base Ring in that place hold your head about two foot from the Base Ring and there you may best observe as the Piece is traversing when you are in a direct line with the mark this done give one of your men order to raise and fall the Piece with his Hand-spike as you shall appoint him until you can holding your head two foot from the Britch of the Piece with your eye perceive the mark at the Base Ring and the top of the dispart in a direct line with the mark you must shoot at at that instant stop the motion of the Piece with a Coyn that it may remain as you have directed it then Prime your Piece and give fire The way of Shoting Mira Comme or by the mettall of the peice 412. Paces Shooting punctually Levill by a dispart 206. Paces 248 4 10 paces right Rainge folio 72 73. Before you place your Dispart you are to take notice whether the ground be Level whereon the Wheels of the Gun stand or if they be not one higher than the other and if the Trunions stand just over the Axeltree of the Wheels or no whether one Trunion lye higher on the Carriage than the other whether the Gun be truely placed in the Carriage or not that is that it be not nearer one side than the other whether the Carriage be truly made according to the direction we have already prescribed in the first part whether the Axeltree be placed just cross the Carriage or not CHAP. XVII How if a Shot do carry to the right or to the left under or over the mark by reason of some known fault to amend it in making the next Shot AFter you have made one Shot and find the Piece carry just over the mark then do all that has been taught again and when your Piece lyes directly against the mark observe how much the last stroak of the Shot is above the mark so much longer make your dispart that the top of it may be just seen from the Britch of the Piece in a direct line with the stroke of the Shot when it is of this length then level your Piece with this new dispart to the assigned mark Give fire and without doubt it will strike the same If the first Shot strike under the mark then bring the Piece in all points as before to pass mark how much of the dispart is over the stroke of the Shot and cut it just so short as being at the Britch you may discern the top of it with the mark on the Base Ring and stroke of the Shot in a just right line and when you perceive it is of such a length level the Piece to the assigned mark as at the first then Prime and Give fire If the first Shot strike on the right hand of the mark to mend it you must level the Piece as formerly you standing behind the Britch of the Piece observe the stroke of the Shot over the dispart and that part of the Base Ring as you at that instant look over in a right line towards the dispart and the stroke of the Shot set up in that place a Pin with a little soft Wax on the Base Ring so this Pin will be in a right line with the dispart and stroke of the Shot This being done level your Piece to the mark assigned by this Pin and the dispart and without question you will make a fair Shot for when you level by the Metal of the Base Ring where the Pin is placed and the mark of the Piece standing at that direction look over the top of the dispart from the notch in the Base Ring and you shall find it to lye just so much to the left as the former Shot struck to the right from the assigned mark which should in all likelyhood now strike the mark But if a Shot be both too wide and too low then you must use both the directions above taught to make the next Shot first regulate the dispart by cutting it shorter according as the Shots mark is lower than the assigned mark when this is done then proceed to my directions to mend shooting wide and these things performed with care and diligence cannot choose but mend a bad Shot CHAP. XVIII Of shooting at Random at a Mark beyond the right line of the Pieces reach or right Range of a Shot and the way of framing a Table of Randoms by help of the Gunners Quadrant FOr the effecting of this matter we must have a Quadrant with a Thread and Plummet which is described in the first Chapter of this second Section to one side of this Quadrant so that one end of the Ruler may go into the Cavity of the Piece and let a Piece of Lead be fastned to the end of the Rule to make it lye close to the bottom of the Metal within the Quadrant hanging without and the plumb-Plumb-line swaying or hanging down from the Center of the Quadrant perpendicular to the Horizontal line for the Quadrant being thus placed you may mount a Piece to what degree you shall find fit to shoot by Now every one that will learn to shoot at Random must draw his Piece on a level ground where first shooting level he must observe that distance in feet or paces then mount his Piece to one degree and mark where that shall graze thus finding the distance of every degree from the level to the tenth degree by these distances make a Table to which annex the degrees against the distance by which Table you may using the Art of Proportions find how far another Piece will
in our Countrey-men Mr. Bate and Mr. Babington c. That which I intend to do is to teach you how they may be made by hand or by help only of a Rouler to Roul the Paper upon let it be turned to the thickness you intend only let the Rouler be 8 times the Diameter in length If it be three quarters of an inch in thickness the length will be three inches Roul your Paper hard on the Rouler until the thickness be one inch and a quarter Rouler and all then glue the uppermost paper and the Case is made On the choaking or contracting the paper together at one end within one Diameter of the end except only a little hole about one quarter the Diameter of the bore thereof to contract these Cases on this manner do thus wet the end about one inch in water then put the Rouler in again and tye a great packthread about the wet within three quarters of an inch of the end put another thing almost of the same Diameter with the Rouler in at the wet end about half an inch hold it there get some other body to draw the packthread together you holding the Rouler and Rammer one put down to the end within one inch and the Rammer which must be little less than the Diameter to meet with that end within half an inch in which the contract or choaking must be the packthread having drawn it together tye it fast on that place take out the Former let it dry and it is done when the hole is contracted together make it so wide as is before taught with a round bodkin which you must provide for that purpose CHAP. II. How to make Compositions for Rockets of any size THese ways which I will teach you I take them not upon trust out of every Author but such as are men of known experience as that Casimier before spoken of and others of the like repute And first for Rockets of 1 ounce you must use only Cannon-powder dust being beaten in a Morter and finely sifted and this will rise swift and will make a great noise but carries no tayl Those of most beauty in their operation are made of 1 ounce of Charcoal-dust eight ounces of Powder this Composition will hold for Rockets of one two or three ounces but for those of four take three ounces of Charcoal-dust to one pound of Cannon-powder dust continuing that Rule until you come to Rockets of ten ounces and from thence to Rockets of a pound for there used to be one pound of Powder-dust to 4 ounces of Charcoal-dust But for better satisfaction observe these Rules For Rockets of one pound Take Powder 18 l. Salt-Peter 8 l. Charcoal 4 l. Sulphur 2 l For Rockets of two or three pound Take of Salt-Peter 60 l. Coal 15 l. Sulphur 2 l. For Rockets of four or five pound Take of Salt-Peter 64 l. Coal 16 l. Sulphur 8 l. For Rockets of six seven or eight pound Salt-Peter 35 l. Coal 10 l. Sulphur 5 l. For Rockets of nine or ten pound Salt-Peter 62 l. Coal 20 l. Sulphur 9 l. For Rockets from eleven to fifteen pound Salt-Peter 32 l. Sulphur 8 l. Coal 16 l. For Rockets from sixteen to twenty pound Salt-Peter 42 l. Coal 26 l. Sulphur 12 l. For Rockets from thirty to fifty pound Salt-Peter 30 l. Coal 18 l. Sulphur 7 l. For Rockets from sixty to a hundred pound Take Peter 30 l. Sulphur 10 l. Coal 10 l. CHAP. III. To fill the Rockets with this Composition PLace the mouth downwards where it was choaked and with a knife put in so much as you can of the receits provided for that size at one time then put down your Rammer which must be longer and narrower than the Former or Rouler upon which you made the Cases and with a hammer of a pound weight give three or four indifferent knocks then put in more composition with your knife until it be full at every time knocking the like as before with the Rammer until the composition come within one diameter of the bore of the top there put down a peece of pastboard and knock it in hard prick three or four little holes therein then put fine pistol powder in almost to the top and upon that another cap of paper upon which put a peece of leather that it may be tyed on the top of the Rocket and fast glued on then get a streight twig and bind it upon the Rocket with strong packthred it must be no heavier than being put upon your finger two or three fingers breadths from the mouth of the same it may just ballast the Rocket then it is prepared for use CHAP. IV. How to give fire to one or more Rockets SEt your Rockets mouth upon the edge of any peece of timber battlement of a wall top of the Gunners carriage wheel or any dry place whatsoever where the rod or twig may hang perpendlcular from it then lay a train of powder that may come under the mouth thereof give fire thereunto and you have done But if you would fire more Rockets than one that as one descendeth the other may ascend by degrees make this composition following of Roch peter 8 ounces Quick Brimstone 4 ounces and fine Powder dust 2 ounces which lay in a line from one Rocket to another they being placed ten inches or a foot one from another give fire to this composition and it will work your desire by causing one to mount into the air when the other is spent but before you place your Rockets remember to prick them with the bodkin CHAP. V. Divers and sundry Compositions for Stars A Composition for Stars of a blew colour mixed with red TAke of Powder mealed 8 ounces Salt-Peter 4 ounces Quick Brimstone 12 ounces Meal all these very fine and mix them together with two ounces of Aqua-vitae and half an ounce of Oyl of Spike which let be very dry before you use it Another Composition which maketh a white and beautiful fire Take Powder 8 ounces Salt-Peter 24 ounces Quick Brimstone 12 ounces Camphire 1 ounce Meal these Ingredients and incorporate them Now to meal your Camphire take a brass pestle and morter wet the end of the pestle in a little of the Oyl of Almonds and it will meal to powder then keep it close from the air else it will become of no use Another white fire which lasteth long Take Powder 4 ounces Salt-Peter 16 ounces Brimstone 8 ounces Camphire 1 ounce Oyl of Peter 2 ounces Meal those that are to be mealed and mix them according to the former directions CHAP. VI. The manner of making Stars and to use them TAke little four square peeces of brown paper which fill with the composition you approve of best of the three last taught so double it down rouling it until you make it round about the bigness of a nut or bigger according to the size of your Rocket that you intend them for prime them withdrawing thorow them