is known and T 3 is also known or C F and F λ is known therefore C λ or 9 Y is known and so is Y λ known then by the 4. lib. 6. Euclid as I 9 is to 9 Y so is Y λ to λ Z to which if you add one foot the whole base λ Z will be known The Perimeter of this Brestwork or the Lines of it surrounding the whole Fortification whether they be inward or outward must be drawn parallel to the Faces only so that they meet at a point opposite to the middle points of the Courtine and make outward Angles but if Ravelins are built before the Courtines the Brestwork is drawn about them but not about the Horn-works if any should be built IV. Whether it be expedient to make a Ditch about the Out-Brestwork Some affirm it and stand to it But they do not consider when they think to make this Brestwork stronger that they quite over-throw the end it was made for which was that the besieged might safely sally out upon the Enemy and in their return injoy a safe retreat both which will be hindred by a Ditch made about it Insomuch that if the Towns-men do not make it 't would seem fitter for the Enemy to make CHAP. XII An Orthographical Table of Regular Fortifications This Table is collected out of the doctrine of the four foregoing Chapters  Max. Med Min. Rhynland feet The breadth of the base of the Rampar A E. 84 72 60 The inward Talu or line forming the Sloap AB 18 6 14 The outward Talu E F. 9 8 7 The height of the Rampar B L. 18 16 14 The breadth on the top of the Rampar L 3. 57 48 39 The breadth of the base of the Brestwork 3 D 24 18 14 The inward Talu of the Brestwork D T. 1 1 1 The outward Talu of the Brestwork 32. 2 2 2 The inward height of the Brestwork T I. 6 6 6 The outward height of the Brestwork 2 K 4 4 4 The breadth of the top of the Brestwork K O. 21 15 11 The rest of the foregoing Table  Max. Med. Min. Rhynland feet The breadth of the step or Banquet D 4 3 3 3 The height of the step or Banquet 4 G 1 ½ 1 ⅓ 1 ⅕ The Terrepleine or Walk on the Rampar 4 L 30 27 22 The walk of the Fauss-br or chemin des Rondes E 5 21 17 15 The Fauss-bray with its Banquet    The border or bankside Lisier R S 6 6 6 The upper width of the Ditch S V 132 108 84 The outward inward Talu's of the ditch SH V 5 12 12 10 The depth of the Ditch H 8 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 12 12 10 The Width of the bottom of the ditch 87 108 184 64 The Covert way V X 21 17 15 Its step or banquet    The base of the out-brestwork λ Z 79 70 69 Its height 6 6 6 For the base of the Out-brestwork working according to the Rules deliver'd in the 11. Chap. num 3. I find it to be Max. Med. Min. 82. 75 ¼ 69. Therefore Dogen and Fritach are out in their account The first Column shews you the largest and strongest Orthography which is able to sustain the greatest force of the Besiegers The second is able to bear an indifferent Siege The third is made against the least strength which is usually sent against Towns But here we only treat of the Forts themselves I shall hereafter give you the Orthography of Castles and Out-works And again I had no proportion or respect to the diversity of the Figures or Polygons as many Engineers have who for no reason as I can tell give to a Pentagon a different Orthography from that which they give to a Hexagon or a Nonagon For a stronger or weaker Orthography is to be given a Fortification not as it hath more or less Angles or Bulworks but as it ought to resist a greater or less strength of an Enemy Note If the Fortification be made without a Fauss-bray the Out-brestwork will have another Base for it will be a fourth proportional to the three terms I 9 9 Y Y λ but the mean or middle term 9 Y will be less by the space E R if the Fauss-bray be wanting and then the base of the Brestwork λ Z will be max. med 65 50 CHAP. XIII Of the raising of Out-works A Fortification formed according to its essential parts is made stronger if it be surrounded with some Out-works The chief of which is a Raveline a Half-moon a Horn-work a Crown-work and Tongs I shall treat of each of them distinctly in the following propositions PROP. I. I. The definition and form of a Raveline or Target A Raveline is a Bulk of Earth almost like a Bulwork cut off Fig. 10. except that it wants flanques it is surrounded with water and separated from the Fortification by the breadth of the whole Ditch Such an one is F E G H in the 10th Figure its faces are F E G E. It wants as I said for the most part flanques yet it admits of them when it is built before Gates which then will be about 8 or 9 perches Towards the Enemy it is built with a Rampar and Brestwork and lies open towards the Fortification least it might shelter the Enemie when he hath possest it it is rais'd but a little height above the level of the ground that it may be better defended from the main Fortification and the plains the better scowred by it It s Angle must not be less than 60 degr nor more than a right Angle The length of the faces is determin'd in Regular Fortifications numb 3. If they are applyed to the covering of a Courtine that is above its just length observe this that the faces must not be longer than the faces of the Bulworks therefore they may be about 40 50 or 60 paces II. Concerning their place and how they are defended For the most part it is raised before Gates and Courtine but never before the Bulworks The 10th Figure shews the Situation of it as it lyes before a Courtine 't is best to have it of such a breadth as might cover the Courtine only and not the flanques for then 't is defended by the faces and flanques of the Bulworks that it lies betwixt III. The making of it Is various but this is most approved Fig. 10. Raise an infinite perpendicle from the middle point of the Courtine S from this Line on the other side of the Ditch cut off H E equal to ¾ or ⅔ or ½ of the Face then from the point E draw streight Lines either to the ends of the Courtine A B and this will be the best form for the Raveline for the whole Courtine is covered by the Raveline and the Raveline it self not only scowred and defended by the Faces but by the flanques of the Bulworks also or to some other point of the flanque or to the
ends of the flanque C D those parts of these strait lines F E G E cut off from the Bank-side of the Ditch towards E are the Faces of the Bulworks 1. Another way On the Centers A B the extream points of the Courtine with the distance of the same Courtine describe two Arches intersecting one another in E. 2. Produce the marginal lines of the Ditch φ 1 M L till they meet at the point H then from the ends of the flanques C D draw strait lines to the point E that may cut the marginal lines of the Ditch in F G and F E G H shall be the perfect delineation of the Raveline the faces are F E G E the Gorge Lines are F H G H. 1. Another way bisect the Gorge Lines of the Bulwork A R B Q in the points O P then draw strait lines from the points O P by the ends of the flanques C D till theâ—y meet one another in the point E. 2. Then produce the out-out-lines of the Ditch φ I M L till they meet in H and cut the former lines in F G so shall F E G H be the Ravelin required IV. The Orthographie and Ichnographie or the Profile and Plain This Table following shews the height and breadth of each part The third column shews the Orthographie of the Out-works of Breda The first and fourth shews the Orthographie of the largest The second and fifth of the middle size the sixth shews the least the four last Columns are taken out of Dogen This Table doth not serve only for Ravelins but for all manner of Out-works A Table for the building of Outworks Rhynland feet  Max. Med. Bred. Stab Min. st Temp. The lower breadth of the Ramp 40 36 44 36 24 20 The outward Talu of the Ramp 3 2 6 3 2 2 The inward Talu of the Ramp 6 4 8 6 4 4 The height of the Rampar 6 4 8 6 4 4 The upper thickness of the Ram. 31 30 30 27 18 14 The base of the Brestwork 15 15 16¼ 13 10 8 The outward Talu of the brestw 2 2 3¼ 2 2 2 The inward Talu of the Brestw 1 1 1 1 1 1 The outward height of the Brest 2 2 5 4 4 4 The inward height of the Brestw 6 6 6 6 6 6 The upper thickness of the Brest 15 12 12 10 7 5 The height of the step 1½ 1½ 1½ 1½ 1½ 1½ The breadth of the step 3 3 3 3 3 3 The Walk on the Ramp 12 10 10 1 â— 11 5 3 The rest of the foregoing Table Rhynland feet  Max. Med. Bred. Stab Min. st Temp. The border at the foot of the Ram. 3 3 6 3 3 2 The width of the Ditch 48 30 42 30 24 16 The outward Talu of the Ditch 10 8 7 8 6 4 The inward Talu of the Ditch 10 8 7 8 6 4 The depth of the Ditch 10 8 7 8 6 6 The width of the bottom of the D. 18 14 28 14 12 8 PROP. II. Of the Half-moon or Helmet I. Its definition and place HAlf-moons for the most part do not differ from Ravelins unless it be in bigness perhaps they had this name given them because those which are built before Bulworks are Arch'd in the form of a crescent on that side which lies towards the Bulwork They are placed upon the Covert-way which is beyond the Ditch so that their Capital line produced cuts the Courtine into two equal parts They are built also before the Angle of Bulworks as I said but the greatest use of them is in Irregular Fortification as I shall shew hereafter II. Their Form Let not their Angle be less then 60 degr nor more than 90 degr Let their height be but indifferent and not distant from the Rampar above Musquet-Shot that they may be defended by the Rampar When they are built on the Covert-way their faces must be 25 or 30 paces let the thickness of their Rampar be 15 or 20 feet and they must be so large as to receive 100 or 150 Souldiers III. Their Delineation 1. In the Angle of the Fauss-bray V as in a center with the distance of the breadth of the Ditch V M describe an Arch and produce the Capital line infinitely cutting the Arch in α. 2. On the other side of the Ditch cut off α X from the Capital Line produced which is â…” of the Face of the Bulwork and from the points H and λ where the Gorge lines of the Ravelins intersect one another draw unto λ the lines H X λ X. 3. Produce the faces of the Fauss-bray φ V φ V till they cut the lines H X λ X in 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and the Arch in 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 or the Fichant lines of the Fauss-bray continued on 2 V 3 V may determine these Intersections So have you a half-moon delineated placed before a Bulwork whose faces are X ζ X â— and its flanques but open are 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 The delineation of other half-moons is like that of Ravelins The Orthographie and Ichnographie is had out of the foregoing proposition Chap. XIII numb 4. IV. Its Vse and Conveniency 'T is the weakest of all the out-works since it cannot entertain a good quantity of Souldiers to defend it by reason of its straits and is also with more difficulty defended from the Fortification Therefore these half-moons seem to be hurtful to the Fortification unless they be arm'd with these cautions to wit that Ravelins be built on both sides and that they consist only of Faces being altogether without flanques otherwise being possest by the Enemie they cannot be hot from the Ravelins and at last let them be every where within Musquet-Shot Yet if all this were perform'd 't will be still doubtful whether they are useful or not Wherefore they seem not to be built without peculiar necessity PROP. III. Of the Horn-work I. Its Definition and Kinds Fig. 10. THat Outwork that runs farthest into the field with two strait sides objecting to the Enemy two half-Bulworks is called a Horn-work The tenth Figure shews an example of it There are three kinds of Horn-works the first hath its sides inclining to one another towards the Field the second towards the Fortification and the third's are parallel II. Its Place and Form They are built opposite to the Courtine or the Angle of the Bulwork beyond the Out-brestwork Yet they are better defended if they cover the Courtine than if the Bulwork especially if the sides are parallel For when they cover the Bulworks with parallel sides they receive no other defence than from the Courtine and that to little purpose since at so great a distance besides after this manner the work would be too narrow Yet if they are to be placed before Bulworks 't is altogether necessary the sides should incline to one another towards the Bulworks that so they may not take in all the faces but exclude some part of them from which they may be defended
the Siege whose parts I shall briefly expound and every one distinctly by it self CHAP. XIX Of Circumvallation CIrcumvallation consists in Camps Trenches and works of all sorts The very Camps also being a lesser kind of Circumvallaiion doe comprehend the two last to wit Trenches and varietie of Works PROP. I. The disposing of the Camp or Quarters 1. THe Camp is to be form'd in those places that seem most convenient to let in an External Enemy 2. It must not be made in a place that may be drowned 3. Let there be so many that relief may be readily sent from them to all parts of the Circumvallation 4. Let them be above Cannon shot from the Town or at least so far off as that they may fear little dammage from their Guns 5. Let them be placed if you can by a River side 6. The Camp as likewise all the rest of the Circumvallation must be fortified with Trenches that is with a Rampar round about it and several other works PROP. II. Of the Lines commonly called Trenches THese Lines of the Siege are a continual kind of Rampar which surround as wel the Camp as all the rest of the places about the Town besieged Concerning these Observe this 1. Let them be twofold one inward built against the besieg'd to keep them in least with their Sallies they hurt the Besiegers the other outward to keep off any enemy that should attacque the Camp from without Let the outward be stronger than the inward nay when there is but a small Garrison in the Town these inward ones may be spared or at least very slightly built 2. These Trenches especially the outward one must not be extended above 750 feet upon a right Line After every 750 feet they must be fortified with several works cast before and betwixt them These are wont to be used Redoubts or little Turrets Middle or toothed defences outward and inward Angles Little Tonges Stars square Forts with whole Bulworks various Forts with half Bulworks whole plain Bulworks and half ones Ravelins half moons Hornworks Crownworks All this Trade of Works so various and so manifold was used in no time more than in our age nor in no place oftner than in Holland at the Siege of Hartogen Bosch at both the Sieges of Breda Mastricht and many others most of those are already delivered in the foregoing propositions we will expound those that remain in the following 3. The Profiles and Ichnography of these Trenches is various in respect of their place and danger I 'le give you three sorts of them used at the siege of Hartogen Bosch The Base of the Brestwork 7½ 7. The outward Sloap or Talu 2½ 3. The inward Sloap 1. 1. The inward height 6. 6. The outward height 5. 5. The upper part 4. 3. The width of the Step. 3. 3. The heighth of the Step. ½ ½ The Border or footing on the outside 3. 3. The width of the Ditch 12. 8. The outward Talu or Sloap of the Ditch 4. 2. The inward Sloap of the Ditch 4. 2. The depth of the Ditch 5. 2. The width at the bottom of the Ditch 4. 4. At the coming of the Royal Army the Dutch made their Circumvallation stronger they increas'd the Base of their Brestwork to 9 feet making three Steps whose widths added together made 9 feet the height of the brestwork was likewise 9 feet the width of the Ditch was 15 feet PROP. III. To build a Redoubt or Turret IT is a most easie thing since their form is simply square Therefore describe on the earth a Line of 48 feet and on it delineate a square and what you require is done The Ichnographie and Profile is after this manner It s Base 14. or 20. It s width a top 4. or 6. It s height 8. or 10. It s border or footing 2. or 3. The width of its Ditch 15. or 24. The depth of the Ditch 5. or 6. There is usually added to the Brestwork two or three Steps gradually placed over one another PROP. IV. To delineate a Star Fig. 35. To delineate a quadrangular one work after this manner 1. DEscribe on the field a Line of 48 or 50 feet and on it describe a square 2. Bisect the side A B in C and from C raise the perpendicular C D equal to ¼ of A C or 1 ◠of the whole A B. 3. Joyn A D D B if this construction be made round all the sides you 'l have a quadrangular Star Fig. 36. To have a Pentagonal Star work after this manner Describe a Regular Pentagon and from the side A B bisected in C raise the perpendicle C D equal to ⅓ of A C or ⅙ of A B. Joyn A D D B and if you do the same round the figure you will have a Pentagonal Star For a Sexangular one Describe A C E c. a Regular Hexagon Fig. X. let each of its sides A C c. be equal to about 104 paces at the ends of C H c. make the Angles D A C D C A c. 30 degrees each And D A D C will be each about 60 paces Their Ichnographie and Profiles are the same as that of Redoubts Your larger Stars are not in use PROP. V. To delineate a square Fort with half-Bulworks 1. DEscribe the square A B C D whose sides must not be less than 120 feet Fig. 37. nor more than 180. 2. Trisect the sides in E F L M Q S T V. 3. To each of the sides add ⅓ B I DN C O A H but for the Neck-lines take ⅓ in the sides themselves to wit BL D Q C T A E. 4. From the ends of the Neck-lines raise the perpendicular LK QR TX EG each of which must be ⅙ of the side 5. Draw the right lines I K N R O X H G. So have you a Fort with four half-Bulworks PROP. VI. To delineate a Fort on a Rectangular Paralellogram with half-Bulworks 1. TRisect one of the lesser sides A B Fig. 38. and cut off 1 ◠of it from all the sides for the Neck-lines A F BG C O D Q. 2. Add also to each of the sides A K B L CP DS equal to 1 ◠of A B. 3. On the ends of the Neck-lines raise the perpendicles F I G M O N Q R equal to ⅙ of the same A B. 4. Joyn K I LM PN SR I say 't is done PROP. VII To delineate another sort of Quadrilateral Fort with half Bulworks and double Tonges 1. TAke the third part of the sides of the square A B C D Fig. 39. for the Neck-lines CP A M BN RD 2. Add to the side C D on both sides ⅓ C I D K but to the sides C A D B likewise add ⅓ A S B T. 3. From the ends of the Neck-lines raise perpendicles equal to ⅙ P X M L N V R Z and joyn I X S L. T V K Z. 4. Bisect the side C D in E and
thence cut off E G E H equal to ⅓ of the side and thence again raise the perpendicle E F equal also to 1 ◠5. Joyn G F H F you have your purpose Fig. 40. There are built also square Forts with two whole Bulworks and on the opposite side the double Tonges See Fig. 40. PROP. VIII To delineate a three-sided Fort with half Bulworks Fig. 41. 1. DEscribe an equilateral Triangle A B C whose sides must be less than those of a Square 2. Cut off from the sides the third part A I B L C K for the Neck-lines 3. From the end of the Neck-lines raise perpendicularly the sixth part of the sides I H L M K G. 4. Add to the sides of the third part B D C E A F and joyn F H D M E G. you have your purpose The four Forts describ'd in the foregoing Propositions are not to be built promiscuously and for varieties sake but with choise and with respect to the place And although they are much weaker than Forts with whole Bulworks nevertheless they are conveniently made use of As to their Profile and Ichnography you may give them the same as to Redoubts and Stars or if they require a greater you may give them that which was used in the siege of Hartogen Bosch in which the base of the Rampar was 27 feet the height 6 the upper breadth of the Rampar 18 the base of the Brestwork 8 the upper breadth of the Brest-work 4 the height of the Brest-work 6 the width of the Ditch 30 feet CHAP. XX. Of Batteries for great Guns and of the Approaches THe Circumvallation being finish'd which is the first act of the Siege deliver'd in the foregoing Chapter you raise batteries for great Guns in certain places and go towards the Out-brestwork cover'd in oblique Trenches Of these therefore in this present Chapter PROP. I. To build an Offensive and Defensive Battery THere is a twofold Battery offensive and defensive Fig. 42. the last is directed towards the enemy without the first towards the besieged You shall build an Offensive one after this manner 1. Multiply the number of Guns that are to be mounted by 12 the product shall give in feet the length of the Battery for each Gun is distant from another 12. feet and the two at the ends are distant from the Brestwork 6 feet each 2. You 'l have the breadth A D if to the length of a Gun mounted in his carriage you add the space A F ten or twelve feet for the recoiling of the peice and the space F D for traversing and passage 3. Let the plat-form of the Battery be made sloaping downwards towards the Enemy that when the Guns are recoil'd they may with more ease be brought back to their places Let its entry behind be I K the way leading to it must not be very steep but gently rising that the Guns may with more ease be got in 4. That part of the Battery that faces the Enemy must be fortified with a Brest-work whose Base you may make 12 15 or 18 feet its height 6 for the sides A D B E a less width will suffice 5. Let there be so many Ports in the Brestwork as there are Guns let their height be three feet their outward width four their inward two the outward width is more than the inward that the Guns may scowr more of the field 6. Behind the Battery you must describe a space D S N E equal and like the Battery in it make a square hole as M whose side must be ten or twelve feet in which the powder must be kept and you must cover the mouth with leather least any sparks should fall in To conclude as well about the Battery it self A E as the space D N you must make a Ditch eight or ten feet wide six feet deep 7. The first Batteries are wont to be raised at a Musquet-shot from the Town afterwads near the very ditches the general rule may be this that the nearer they are the place they do the greater execution 8. The Defensive Batteries are not so full of work their Brestwork if it be made of earth may be six or seven feet thick the height is sufficient if it cover a Gun in its carriage instead of an earthen Brestwork they use commonly great wicker Baskets fil'd with earth PROP. II. To direct the Lines of Approaches to a place Besieged 1. ABout the distance of a thousand feet from the Town open the Trench 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Fig. 43. which you must carry on obliquely towards the place besieged so that it may not be scowred from any part of it which being continued some space you must dig a new one the other way as 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 with the same obliqueness and so by several turnings you proceed to the Out-brestwork it self where at length the Approaches are finish'd drawing two Trenches 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 longer than ordinary and parallel to the place besieged These two last Lines cover the Besiegers like a Brest-work so that being so near at hand they frighten away the Defendants from guarding their Graft and Rampar 2. Although the Approaches ought so to be carried on that they may never be scowred from the Enemies Rampar yet the Engineer shall take good heed he make them no more obliquer than needs to the loss of time and expences I think with two turnings you may alwayes come to the out-brestwork a far shorter way than if more oblique lines had been made For let there be drawn from the point where you began your Approaches the right line 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 which continued may fall a little without the Angle of the brestwork and if another line be produced from β which goes without the Angles of the out-brestwork you will arrive at the out-brestwork in two turnings 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 but why this way of Approaches is less used I think this to be the reason That your long lines of Approach if attempted may be sooner carried and demolish'd by the Enemy than those that are cut in and out with several windings 3. At the end of every Line you must build Redoubts after such a manner that two may be flanqued by one for this is the best situation of Redoubts If one of the Lines be drawn longer than ordinary you may also build Redoubts in the middle for its defence all which the 43 Figure sufficiently expresses 4. The earth which is cast out is thrown towards the Enemy that it may be instead of a Brestwork to the Pioneers Let its Tower width be six feet its upper twelve or fifteen it s least depth must be such that may cover a standing man with the height of its Brestwork joyn'd to it The nearer they advance to the Town tht deeper they must be The width also must be increas'd if there is occasion to bring stuff for the Gallery thorough the Trenches They use frequently to
deducted from D F the distance between the second and fourth there remains H F your Divisor which measured I admit 50 Halberds lengths the distance between G E 30 Halberds lengths the space between D F 100 Halberds length now 100 multiplyed in 30 produceth 3000 which divided by 50 leaveth in the Quotient 60. I conclude therefore the distance between A and B to be 60 Pikes lengths This one thing is to be taken notice of especially that whatsoever you mete the space G E withall that you use the same in measuring H F and as for D F it matters not what you measure it withall for your Quotient shall bear the same denomination Preciseness is to be used in placing of your Triangle and in measuring E G and H F otherwise error may ensue especially if D F be but a small distance and the Angle at B very sharp There needeth in this matter no further admonition small Practice will resolve all doubts CHAP. IX To measure the distance between any two Forts Castles or other places howsoever they be scituated though there be Rivers or such like Impediments between that you cannot approach nigh any of them and that without an Instrument also LEt your Angles as before hath been said be prepared of any three Staves c. you shall first at pleasure set up one Staff and applying thereunto your Angle in such sort that the one containing side lye directly to one of the Marks which here for distinction sake I will call the first go backwards too and fro until you find your second Mark precisely covered with your Staff noting what part of the line or side subtending the Angle it cuts by your line visual and there make a fine notch or mark upon that subtending Staff which done you shall go sidewise from the first erected Staff as the other containing side of your Triangle will direct you so far as you list and then set up your second Staff yet pass on from thence in a right line with that containing side of your Angle that riseth from your Staves and cometh somewhat toward the Mark and go so far until you spy your self justly between your third Staff and your first mark there set up your fourth Staff then resort to your Angle again and standing behind the second Staff note whether a right line from the Angle to that notch before made on the subtendent Staff or side of the Triangle will direct you for that way precisely shall you go on until you come in a right line with the second and third Staff and erect there the fifth Staff this done measure the distance between the second and third Staff reserving that for a Divisor then multiply your distance between the first and third Staff by the distance between the fourth and fifth Staff the product divide by your reserved Divisor and it yieldeth in the Quotient the true distance between the two marks Example Let A B be the distance I would know C my first Station where the first Staff is erected I my Triangle made of three Staves and placed at the Station and directed with one of the containing sides to A which is the first mark as you may see in the Figure and with the other side to D and E the second and third Staves H is the notch or mark upon the side subtended to the Angle where the line visual from ☽ passeth to the second mark B my Triangle now I scituate at D as it was before at C the one contained side lying even with the erected Staves the other directed to my fourth Staff F placed in a right line with E the third Staff and A the first mark Again my line visual proceeding from D to H the notch in the subtended side of the Angle is extended to my fifth Staff G scituated exactly between E the third Staff and B the other mark This done I measure the distance between my second and third Staff finding it 20 foot likewise between the fourth and fifth Staff and find it 72 foot finally between the first and third Staff 65 paces so that according to the Rule before given multiplying 65 by 72 I have 4680. which divided by 20 yieldeth in the Quotient 234 and so many paces is there between A and B. I have not set out the Figures in just proportions answering to these numbers for that is not requisite but in such form as may best open and make manifest the scituation of the Staves and Triangle wherein consists all the difficulty of this Practice CHAP. X. How you may readily find out the distance to any Tower Castle Forts c. by help of the former Quadrant LEt the Quadrant be made upon a square Board as is there marked A D B Q. Let D B be divided into 90 Degrees or equal parts and instead of the 12 equal parts or right and contrary shadows g m and h m let the two sides D Q and B Q be divided each into 1200 equal parts or as many as you please and marked from the Center A and have a Ruler or Index to be moved round upon the Center A having two sights upon it set just upon the feducial line of the Index and let it be divided into such equal parts as the Lymb B Q or D Q. Let this Instrument thus fitted be handsomly placed upon its Staff or otherwise lay the feducial of your Index upon the beginning of the Degrees of the Quadrant and turn your whole Instrument the Index not moved till you may espy through the sight your mark then remove your Index to the contrary side of the Quadrant placing the line feducial on the side line where the degrees end and look through the sights and in that very line set up a mark a certain distance the farther the better this done take away your Instrument and set up a Staff there and remove the Instrument to the mark you espyed set your Index on the beginning of the Degrees moving your whole Instrument till you find through the Sights the Staff at the first Station then remove your Index your Quadrant keeping its place till you may again espy through the Sights your mark which done note the Degrees cut by the line feducial and then work thus upon some even smooth Superficies whether it be Board Plate or Paper Draw first a streight line and open your Compasses to some small distance call that space a score and make so many such divisions upon your Line as there is scores between your Stations then upon the end of your line raise a perpendicular and fixing one foot of your Compasses at the other end opening it to what wideness you please draw an Arch rising from the same line that represents your Stationary distance and dividing it into 90 equal parts or Degrees as you was taught in the making your Quadrant extend from the Center to the number of Degrees cut by your feducial line a right line until it concur with
the Figure of the place be so Irregular as not to be reduced to a Regular 't will behoove you to circumscribe about it a Regular Figure But that you may know how many sides the Figure circumscrib'd is to have measure the largest Radius of the place you intend to inclose then turn to the Tables of Regular Fortifications and observe what Figures Radius your Radius is equal to or nearest and what Figures Radius you find it to be that Figure you must circumscribe CHAP. XVI How an Irregular Place having fit Sides and Angles is to be Irregularly fortified SOme Angles of Irregular Place are said to be fit others unfit as likewise some of the sides are fit and some unfit That is a fit Angle that is not less than ninety degrees that which is less is unfit for the Angle of the Bulwork set upon it would be less than sixty degrees if a due proportion were kept of the rest for the parts The external Angles also are reckon'd among the unfit That side is fit that leaves for the Courtine not less than three hundred feet nor more than five hundred feet when the two Gorge lines belonging to a Square shall be cut off on both sides That side is unfit that leaves more than five hundred or less than three hundred feet Dogen pronounces one side to be unfit that is less than the side of a square Regular Figure Therefore look in the Tables for the Neck-lines of a square Fortification and cut them off at each end from every particular side and if the remainder be no less than three hundred feet or more than five hundred feet the side are fit PROB. I. Let there be given an Irregular place Z having fit Sides and Angles Fig. 27. which were required to be Irregularly fortified 1. FInd out by help of an Instrument the least Angle of the Place which let be A then observe what Regular Figure 's Angle of the Circumference is equal to this least angled or next less Let us order it to be the Angle of a Square 2. Seek therefore in your Tables Chap 5. the Neck-lines that serve for a Square which let be A H A H cut off from the sides Seek also the flanques of a Square which being rais'd perpendicularly from H H let be H G H G. Then bisecting the Angle A with an infinite Right line A Q cut off from it the Capital line of a Square A F likewise found in the Table and joyn F G FG so you have H G F G H the Bulwork of a square Fortification Where note that if the least Angle be 100 degrees or betwixt 110 or 108 you must give to the Flanques seventy feet 3. If on the rest of the Angles you make Bulworks belonging to a Square the Fortification will be compleat and perfect 4. If the Courtine and flanques in the Courtine be in some places too little there make the Bulwork of a Regular Figure next less till your Courtine be long enough you may also lessen the Angle of the Bulwork if the Flanques are too short still preserving its just bigness spoke of in the Maxims On the contrary you may increase the Angle of the Bulwork if the flanque of the Courtine be very big 5. Very great Angles to wit such as are bigger than 150 degrees shall be fortified as right sides that is you shall so fortifie each side of the Angle as if it were one Courtine The manner will be delivered afterwards 6. The Bulworks being built after this form by help of the least Angle if the Courtine and flanques of the Courtine be of that length that that they may be shortned still preserving their due quantity then 't will be lawful to increase the Angle of the Bulwork by increasing either the Flanques or Neck-lines or both together and so will you take away any inconvenience that might be in this way neither will there be any thing that Dogen can condemn nor such need of that troublesome new invention of Lines found by the Rule of Proportion PROB. II. To do the same thing another way 1. ME sure each Angle of the place and see what Regular Figure 's angles each angle is equal to or next bigger 2. On each Angle of the given place build Bulworks with their Neck-lines Flanques Capital taken from those Figures unto whose Angles of circumference the Angles of the given place shall come nearest The business shall be illustrated with an Example Suppose the Angle A to be found next less than the Angle of a Square on this build the Bulwork of a Square then let the Angle B be next bigger than the Angle of an Hexagon therefore you must build on B the Bulwork of an Hexagon and so for the rest 3. But if when the Bulworks shall be built after this manner that is to say Fig. 27. on B that of an Hexagon on C that of a Pentagon it happens that the Courtine L K is notably less than 300 feet you must build on B the Bulwork of a Pentagon and on C the Bulwork of a Square If the Courtine be not yet 300 feet you must also make on B the Bulwork of a Square but if yet the Courtine be less than 300 feet the side C B will be unfit PROB. III. To do the same yet another way 1. THe third manner is this Fig. 27. if the Angle of the Place differ notably from the Angle of the next Regular Figure then with the same Data as are in any of the six manners of the fifth Chapter find for each of the Angles A B all the Angles and Lines as we did there in Regular Fortifications Dogen in pag. 204. seems to prefer for this purpose the third manner delivered in the fifth Chapter 2. On the Angle A make a Bulwork with his Neck-lines Capital Flanques which you found for the Angle A in the like manner on the Angle B make a Bulwork taking the Neck-lines Capital and Flanques which you found for the Angle B and so in the rest of the Angles C D E. 3 If after the Bulworks are thus order'd the Courtine be found too short you must help that fault almost after the same manner as in num 3. Prob. II. 4. At last the Figure being fortified after this manner according us the several circumstances may require the proportion of the Flanques Faces and of the Angle of Bulwork may be freely changed and altered c. provided you do not transgress the Canons establish'd in the third Chapter Dogen hath Tables of this after pag. 200. This way is taken out of Dogen CHAP. XVII How an Irregular place having unfit Sides and Angles ought to be fortified PROB. I. To fortifie the unfit Angles of the Irregular Place A. Fig. 28. 1. IF the Angle S I B be only little less than a right one build on it the Bulwork of a Square and cut off its Angle Q for it is less than it
should be and make a pair of Tonges or the outward Angle N O P. Others when the Angle is betwixt eighty and ninety degrees had rather build before it a Horn-work I judge it best to do both 2. If the Angle B C H were less than eighty degrees but bigger than sixty surround it with a Crown-work Others cut away the Angle it self if it be near sixty degrees and turn it to a pair of Tonges D F E He doth best for a Fortification that joyns both 3. If any Angle as S G H be less than sixty degrees let the Figure of the place be changed by drawing a new side G R C that may make Angles of a just quantity with both the sides S G and B C. 4. 'T will be lawful also to change an unfit Angle provided not less than sixty degrees into a whole Bulwork or half Bulwork or into a Raveline or Half-moon or else to cut it off and change it into Tonges or a Horn-work PROB. II. To fortifie the external Angles of an Irregular Place Fig. 29. LEt there be given the outward Angle of an Irregular Place A B C to be fortified 1. If the ends of the Sides A and C are not distant from one another neither less than 518 feet nor more than 826 build whole Bulworks on A and C as we taught in Chap 16. Prob. 1 2. c. 2. If the distance of the ends A and C be more than 826 feet you must build before the outward Angle either a Raveline or Hornwork or else both Likewise you may make in the sides middle or toothed defences of which see Chap. 14. num 9. building over and above a Raveline Fig. 30. 3. If the distance of the ends A and C be less than 518 feet make two half Bulworks for the defence of the sides A S and C R But before the outward Angle you must build a larger sort of Raveline 4. The best way of all to fortifie external Angles Fig. 28. is to inclose them within the Figure by drawing a new side G C and then the Angles B C G S G C and the side G C may be fortified after the manner deliver'd in Chap. 16. if they are fit if unfit according to the method partly already deliver'd in this Chapter and partly to be deliver'd PROB. III. To fortifie the sides of an Irregular Fortification 1. LEt the side that is too long be A B measure the least Angle of the place A Fig. 31. and observe as above what Regular figures Angle of the circumference it comes nearest to Let us suppose it comes nearest to the Angle of a Pentagon and bisect the side A B in G also cut off the Neck-lines of the Pentagon A O and B N because we suppos'd the least Angle at A to be nearest that of a Pentagon This being done if the remainder G O G N be not less than 300 feet or more than 500 you shall build on the middle point of the Courtine G a plain Bulwork according to the Method delivered Chap. 14. numb 11. In which alter only this that the Neck-lines G I G H be taken equal to the Neck-lines A O B N of the Bulworks set on the neighbouring Angles 2. If any side as A L be of so great a length that being it self divided into equal parts L 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 A and having its Neck-lines cut off A 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 L 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 does leave its Courtines 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 not less than 300 feet nor more than 500 you shall build more plain Bulworks on the side A L. 3. That side for which two Bulworks are too little and three are too much must be rather fortified with two great ones than three little ones 4. If the side too long will not admit of one plain Bulwork the Courtine must be fortified with Ravelins and other works but their Profile must be longer than ordinary Note That universally sides either too long or too short may be corrected or not they may be corrected when the sides that are too long can be cut shorter or when those that are too short can be produced Besides you may make a new Angle on the side that is too long that shall yield two sides of a fit quantity PROB. IV. To fortifie the sides of an Irregular place that is too short 1. IF several sides are less than 300 feet you must change the figure and fortifie it after some manner already delivered 2. If the figure of the place will not admit of a change either the Courtines must be fortified with Ravelins built before them whose profile must be more than ordinary or the Angles must be surrounded with Crown-works they may be also changed into Tonges or Hornworks or else they may be shelter'd with one whole Bulwork 3. If the side to be fortified having on each end the Neck-lines belonging to a square cut off be less than 300 feet Bulworks must not be built on the Angles adjacent to the second side although they be fit but shall be fortified with other Out-works and if the Angles are betwixt 90 and 120 degrees you must build before them Horn-works or if more then 120 degr you must object before the angles in the Ditch it self either Ravelins or Retrench'd Bulworks 4. The side that is too short and those too long may be also mended if you make Irregular Bulworks whose Neck-lines are almost all set off on the longest side PROB. V. How Ancient Cities are to be Fortified 1. AN ancient Rampar if it be strong and surrounded with a Wall and Towers must not be demolish'd therefore you must inclose it with a new fortification which must be Regular if possible or as near a Regular as might be Betwixt the New Fortification and the old Ditch there must be left a large Poâ—â—rium fit for Military uses 2. If the ancient Fortifications be of Earth or can be mended without much cost and labour then proceed according to the Rules of Irregular Fortification already delivered Many French and Dutch Cities are fortified with Ravelins Halfmoons Hornworks and other sort of works which sort of building since 't is to supply the place of Bulworks ought to be stronger than usual They are likewise frequently fortified with a Fauss-bray and the Brestwork of the Covert-way and sometimes with a Ditch about this Out-brestwork and with Stakado's Corollary Out of these three foregoing Chapters 't is understood by what Method all Irregular places are to be fortified whether they labour with all the defects above mentioned or not with all Moreover this is to be observed in the Fortification of every Irregular place that you have the Plane of the place described on paper that so you may the better see what form of Fortification and what works may best agree with the given place and as the figure that is to be fortified proves Irregular so commonly its Bulworks Hornworks Ravelins
German K S N Angle of the Center Angulus Centri Angle du Centre Mittelpunets eck O K N Angle of the Figure Angulus Figurae Angle du Poligone Keelpunct R B F Angle of the Bastion Angulus Prepugnaculi Angle Flancque Bolwercks eck B H D Angle Flancking Angulus Defendens Angle Flanquant Der Schutzwinckel B F L Angle of the Face and Flanck Angulus Faciti Alae Angle du Flancq de la Face Der winckel der Streichen und Gesich-linie 1. From a Pentagone to a Right-line HAving divided the given Base or Exterior Poligone C D in Fig. I. which suppose to be 575 English Feet into two equal parts in E From the Point E raise a Perpendicular E L of a sufficient length This done enter the Number of the Half-Base viz. 575 in the first Column of the Hercotectonick Table over which is D. Base and look what number answers to it in the second Column over which is Perp. and finding it to be 192. take from off your Sector or Scale 192 and set it on the Perpendicular E L where it will terminate in the Point F. And then from either Point D and C of the given Base C D through the Point F draw the Lines C G and D H of a sufficient length In the next place enter the number of the same Half-Base viz. 575 in the third Column of the Table at the head whereof is D. Base to which you will find the Number 351½ answers in the fourth Column over which is the word Face This likewise you must find upon your Sector or Scale and by it determine the two Lines C I and D K. Lastly enter the aforesaid Number 575 in the fifth Column of the Table which you will find answered by 204½ for the Compliment which Compliment or 204 1 â— must determine the two Lines F G and F H. Which done joyn the Points C I H G K D so have you C I and K D for the two Faces H I and G K for the two Flancks and H G for the Curtain of that Fortification And observing the very same method from each Base the Fortification becomes perfectly delineated as in Fig. I. 2. For a Square THE Method for delineating a Fortification upon a Square is the very same with that from a Pentagone to a Right-line only the Proportions and consequently the Numbers expressing those Proportions are different as may be better seen in the second Part of the Hercotectonick Table compared with Fig. II. I. II. But now forasmuch as in Fortifying Cities and other Irregular places it often happens that the Engineer is constrained to make use of the old Walls and Ramparts and consequently the Courtines must be the same with those Walls Therefore the Count de Pagan thought it would be some help to give a Rule to find the Distance between the two Poligones which Distance is also found in the 8th and 16th Columns of the Table For example in Fig. I. E L or the Distance between H G and C D is 257 Feet and four Inches And in Fig. II. M N or the Distance between O P and Q R is 207 Feet and eight Inches But as to this last particular namely of Fortifying from the Interior Poligone the New Method comprised in a MEDALL is much more exact and expeditious LINEAE HERCOTECTONICAE NOVAE Augustisimo Principi CAROLO II Magnae BRITANNIAE c. REGI humillimè oblatae à Samuele Morlando Equite Aurato et Baronetto nec non Camerae Regis Privatae Adjuncto Anno Salutis MDCLXVI Of the Dimensions of the Bastions Ramparts Ditches Half-Moons Counterscarps c. AS concerning the Measures and Dimensions of the Count de Pagan's Bastions Ramparts Ditches Half-Moons Counterscarps c. it would require more time than I can at this present afford and a larger Volumn than I have design'd for this Treatise forasmuch as the Count has given Names to many things quite different from those in other Authors I shall therefore leave the comparing those differences to those who are more at leasure and only content my self to have set down some few of his Proportions which are adjoyned to the opposite Table of Plain-Angles which Table is of Excellent and Universal use The use of the Table of Plain-Angles WHen you would measure an Angle of any Field or Plot of ground As for example let the Angle to be measured be C A B in Fig. C. Take a Chain and measure 30 Links it matters not of what length those Links be so they be equal one to another from A to C and so from A to B. And at B and C stick up two sticks And then measure with the same Chain the distance between C and B and finding it to be 20 seek 20 in the Table in one of the Columns over which is the word Bases and the Number of the next Column answering to it is the true Number of Degrees and Minutes of the Angle sought viz. 40° 00′ After the same manner because the distance between I and K is 55 Links the opposite Angle is 132° 55′ Again suppose you desire to lay out an Angle of 100° 05′ I first stick down two sticks at the two ends or Terms of any given Line F E divided into 30 equal parts in the Points F and E. Then fastening a Chain of 30 Links equal to those 30 equal parts at F and one of 60 Links at E I enter the Table of Angles with 100° 05′ and finding 46 to answer to it where-ever the Chain of 30 Links and 46 of the Chain of 60 meet as in G. thence draw the Line F G and you have what you desire And after the same manner may any Angle be laid out most exactly and expeditiously from 10 Minutes to 180 Degrees â—ES BASTIONS DES RAMPARTS ET DES FOSSEZ Largeur des Ramparts 45 Largeur des Parapets 19 Hauteur de la 3 casematte du fond du sossé 38+ Hauteur des Parapets au dedans 6+ Hauteur des Parapets au dehors 5+ Largeur de Grand Fossé 102 Profondeur du Grand Fossé 19 La largeur du Fossé compris entre le premier et 2 Rampart du Bastion est diverse selon la Fortification le Poligone et sa profondeur 13 Reds ou plus Et la largeur du Flanc retiré 77 Pieds DES DEMI LUNES ET DES CONTRESCARPES 1 Methode Pieds d'Angl Demiegorge de la Demi-Lune 192 Face de la Demi-Lune 320 Largeur de la Grande Contrescarpe 320 Largeur de son Fossé 77 Largeur de la Petite Contrescarpe 26 La Demi-Lune se forme tousiours sur l'Angle Rentrant de la Contrescarpe 2. Methode Pieds d'Angl Largeur de la Grande Contrescarpe 161 Largeur de son Fossé 77 Largeur de la Petite Contrescarpe 26 Demi-gorge de la Demi-Lune 128+ Face de la Demi-Lune 217+ â—es Flanes de la Grande Contrescarpe comprennet Parapets et peuuent ainsi contenir 9 Pieces de Canon LIGNE DES
from whence I may in like manner view all those places and turning my Index thereunto I find the Line fiducial lying upon 180 Degrees then carrying my Instrument thither and placing it in all points there as it was at the first Station I turn my Index again to my first Mark or Castle and find it to cut in 15 Degrees at the second 25 c. as you may see in this second Table The Table of my second Station  Deg. The Castle 15 The Village 25 The City 40 The Eastern Head of the Bay 50 The Western Head of the Bay 55 The Fort within Land 80. With these Tables I repair to a Paper Parchment c. and by the former Rules draw the Figure following Having thus compleated your Plot and found the distance between A and B to be 5 miles make a Scale according to that distance divide it into miles and parts and with it you may measure your distance from place to place or the distance from any of your Stations to each place according as you have occasion Thus passing or changing your Station you may make several Plots containing the true proportion and distance of Towns Villages Ports Roads Hills Rivers and all other notable places throughout a whole Realm Thus I suppose we have writ all such propositions of measuring of heights distances and profundities c. as may be necessary to our work We will next come to the more Practick part of mannaging a Piece of Ordnance to do the best Service CHAP. XIV The Description and use of the Gunners Scale Edward Fage in Hosier Lane Londini Fecit You will observe by this Instrument that the Ladle is but 3 Diameters of the Shot in length and 3 5 part of the Circumference from the Cannon to the whole Culvering and the charge of Powder will be found to be about 2 Diameters of the Piece from the Culvering to the Minion the Charge may fill 2 Diameters and a half and from the Minion to the Base 3 Diameters but of this matter we have spoke at large in the first part of this Book but there having left out the Table of Periors and Drakes I thought good here to insert it A necessary Table of Periors and Drakes proportioned Names of Pieces Height of the bore in inches Length in Diameter Weight in met pound Weight of Powder Length of the Ladle Canon Perior 9. 10. 12. 8 3500 3 3 ⅓ 4 3 D. Canon Drake 6 ½ 16 3000 9 pound 4 ◠2 Culvering Drake 5 ½ 16 2000 5 4 ½ D. Cul. Drake 4 ½ 16 1500 3 ½ 4 ½ Saker Drake 3 ½ 18 1200 2 4 ½ CHAP. XV. How to make a true Dispart of any true bored Piece of Ordnance KNow first that to dispart a Piece of Ordnance is no otherwise than to bring the Diameter at Muzzle to be equal to the Diameter at the Base Ring in true founded Ordnance half of the Diameter of the Cylender is the dispart but more generally it may be done thus Gird the Piece round about the Britch with a thred after do the like by the Muzzle Ring lay these two strings streight upon a Table at length and make two marks for the length of each string divide the distance between each of these two marks into 22 equal parts with your Compasses and 7 of them are their Diameters then measure how much each Diameter is in length and substract one Diameter from the other then take the just half of the difference and that is the true dispart of your Piece in inches and part of an inch But these Diameters are better and more artificially taken with a pair of Crallipars as we have shewed before in taking the Diameter of a Shot and then measured upon your Scale of inches and parts will give you the true Diameters of the Piece both at Britch and Muzzle with which work as above Also you may find the true dispart of a Piece thus Put a small Wyer or priming Iron in at the Touch-hole of the Piece to the bottom of the Concave then mind what part of that Iron is even with the Base Ring and make a mark there then take it out and apply it to the Muzzle and place it upon the lower edge of the Concave of the Piece as upright as you can and mind what part of the Iron or Wyer is even with the upper part of the Muzzle Ring and there make a mark for the difference between these two marks is the true dispart of the Piece or after you have placed your Iron upon the Muzzle as before cause a dispart to be raised so high as that mark which was made upon the Iron when 't was put down the Touch-hole If from the top of the dispart a fine thread or line be carried to the Muzzle Ring you will see how high you may make a dispart at the Trunions Or thus a dispart may be made at the Trunions lay a peece of soft Wax upon the Trunions and let one raise it high or depress it until that the Metal at the top of the Base Ring the Wax between the Trunions and the dispart of the Muzzle be all three of one height precisely but the former way with a thread is more exact A Piece of Ordnance may be disparted thus take two sticks each of them must be longer than the Piece and also make a Plummet of Lead to hang in a small thread made fast to one end of the stick which lay cross the top of the Base Ring to and fro until the Plummet descending from the end thereof may just touch the side of the Metal of the said Ring then keeping fast the stick in that place hang your Plummet down by the other side of the stick until it on the otherside just touch the Metal of the Base Ring when you have done cut off the stick just in that place by which the Plummet descended perpendicularly and this length is the just Diameter of the Base Ring after this manner you must proceed to take the Diameter at the Muzzle Then lastly set these two sticks together even at one end and mark their difference in length or height for just half of that difference is the dispart of that Piece I would advise all Sea Gunners upon some occasions to use Disparts between the Trunions of their Pieces made of a just height on purpose to serve that place by the method we have even now prescribed and let them be tyed about the Piece with a twine because else at every Shot they will be to seek when upon a suddain they should use them and they will much avail and stand them in great stead I could express other wayes only I think these sufficient CHAP. XVI How to give Level with a Piece of Ordnance to make a Shot at any Mark assigned SEt your dispart on the Muzzle Ring just over the Center of the mouth of the Piece which you may best do by putting a stick cross
the bore and dividing it into two equal parts then with a Plumb line hanging over the mouth of the Piece being guided by the divided stick you shall have good aim where to set your Dispart this being done go to the Base Ring if the Piece be true bored then find which is the highest part and middle of that Ring but if the Piece be not true bored then find which part of the Base Ring is just over the Cylender and take that for your true line when you have found out the dispart and placed it and also found what point in the Base Ring is to answer to it then make some very small mark on the Base Ring in that place hold your head about two foot from the Base Ring and there you may best observe as the Piece is traversing when you are in a direct line with the mark this done give one of your men order to raise and fall the Piece with his Hand-spike as you shall appoint him until you can holding your head two foot from the Britch of the Piece with your eye perceive the mark at the Base Ring and the top of the dispart in a direct line with the mark you must shoot at at that instant stop the motion of the Piece with a Coyn that it may remain as you have directed it then Prime your Piece and give fire Before you place your Dispart you are to take notice whether the ground be Level whereon the Wheels of the Gun stand or if they be not one higher than the other and if the Trunions stand just over the Axeltree of the Wheels or no whether one Trunion lye higher on the Carriage than the other whether the Gun be truely placed in the Carriage or not that is that it be not nearer one side than the other whether the Carriage be truly made according to the direction we have already prescribed in the first part whether the Axeltree be placed just cross the Carriage or not CHAP. XVII How if a Shot do carry to the right or to the left under or over the mark by reason of some known fault to amend it in making the next Shot AFter you have made one Shot and find the Piece carry just over the mark then do all that has been taught again and when your Piece lyes directly against the mark observe how much the last stroak of the Shot is above the mark so much longer make your dispart that the top of it may be just seen from the Britch of the Piece in a direct line with the stroke of the Shot when it is of this length then level your Piece with this new dispart to the assigned mark Give fire and without doubt it will strike the same If the first Shot strike under the mark then bring the Piece in all points as before to pass mark how much of the dispart is over the stroke of the Shot and cut it just so short as being at the Britch you may discern the top of it with the mark on the Base Ring and stroke of the Shot in a just right line and when you perceive it is of such a length level the Piece to the assigned mark as at the first then Prime and Give fire If the first Shot strike on the right hand of the mark to mend it you must level the Piece as formerly you standing behind the Britch of the Piece observe the stroke of the Shot over the dispart and that part of the Base Ring as you at that instant look over in a right line towards the dispart and the stroke of the Shot set up in that place a Pin with a little soft Wax on the Base Ring so this Pin will be in a right line with the dispart and stroke of the Shot This being done level your Piece to the mark assigned by this Pin and the dispart and without question you will make a fair Shot for when you level by the Metal of the Base Ring where the Pin is placed and the mark of the Piece standing at that direction look over the top of the dispart from the notch in the Base Ring and you shall find it to lye just so much to the left as the former Shot struck to the right from the assigned mark which should in all likelyhood now strike the mark But if a Shot be both too wide and too low then you must use both the directions above taught to make the next Shot first regulate the dispart by cutting it shorter according as the Shots mark is lower than the assigned mark when this is done then proceed to my directions to mend shooting wide and these things performed with care and diligence cannot choose but mend a bad Shot CHAP. XVIII Of shooting at Random at a Mark beyond the right line of the Pieces reach or right Range of a Shot and the way of framing a Table of Randoms by help of the Gunners Quadrant FOr the effecting of this matter we must have a Quadrant with a Thread and Plummet which is described in the first Chapter of this second Section to one side of this Quadrant so that one end of the Ruler may go into the Cavity of the Piece and let a Piece of Lead be fastned to the end of the Rule to make it lye close to the bottom of the Metal within the Quadrant hanging without and the plumb-Plumb-line swaying or hanging down from the Center of the Quadrant perpendicular to the Horizontal line for the Quadrant being thus placed you may mount a Piece to what degree you shall find fit to shoot by Now every one that will learn to shoot at Random must draw his Piece on a level ground where first shooting level he must observe that distance in feet or paces then mount his Piece to one degree and mark where that shall graze thus finding the distance of every degree from the level to the tenth degree by these distances make a Table to which annex the degrees against the distance by which Table you may using the Art of Proportions find how far another Piece will convey her Shot from degree to degree and in Loading your Piece for this work you must have your Powder exactly weighed and likewise the Wad and let the Piece cool of it self and this you must do every time and if the Piece be mounted there needs no Wad after the Shot also you must have a special care of the strength of the Powder and let the Powder equally and with the same force and strength be pressed home as near as possible you may CHAP. XIX An effectual way to make a Shot out of a Piece of Ordnance at Random HE that intends to be expert at these things ought principally to endeavour at one time or another to obtain so much liberty of his Superior Commanders as to make two three or more Shot with the Piece he chooseth or intends for most Service then must he measure the distance from the Platform
Pitch 2 l. Colophonia 6 l. Sulphur 8 l. Salt-Peter 36 l. melt all these Drugs upon burning Coals in any vessel whatsoever adding after 10 l. of Coal of Sawdust made of the Pine or Firr-Tree 6 l. Crude Antimony 2 l. incorporate and mix them very well together then put into this melted matter Tow Hemp and Linnen Cloaths a great quantity and boyl them well in this Composition and when they have drank up all the matter then form them into Balls of such a bigness as you please so that it may be cast with the hand or with the Engine mentioned in the last Chapter according as you shall find most convenient And this is our true way to make Night at Noon-day to obscure the Sun it self and to blind the Eyes of the Enemies for some time And this is the most lawful way that one may follow because it shews its original from natural things and we may believe that it is alwayes sufficient justice so that the Wars where such things are practised be not unjustly enterprized CHAP. XIII Stink Balls STinking Globes are made to annoy the Enemy by their stinking vapours and fumes disagreeable to Nature nay so unsufferable to the Nose and to the Brain it self by its most violent stink that by no means it can be endured The preparation is as followeth Take of Powder 10 l. of Ship Pitch 6 l. of Tar 20 l. Salt-Peter 8 l. Sulphur Colophonia 4 l. make all these Ingredients melt at the fire by a small heat in an Earthen or Copper vessel and all being well melted throw into the melted matters 2 l. of Coal dust of the cuttings or filings of Horses Hoofs 6 l. Assafoetida 3 l. Sagapenum 1 l. Spatula foetida half a pound Mingle and incorporate them well together then put into this matter Linnen or Woolen Cloath or Hemp or Tow so much as will drink up all the matter and of these you may make Globes or Balls of what bigness pleaseth your self best according to the method and order as we have heretofore prescribed The Globes or Balls may be made Venomous or Poysonous if to their Composition be added these things following viz. Mercury sublimate Arsenick Orpiment Cinaber to which may also be added many other Poysonous matters which I shall forbear to mention considering every one by Nature is apt enough to learn to do that which is mischievous CHAP. XIV Of the Shooting of Shot made red hot in the Fire IT is a practice that hath been practised in former times to shoot red hot Fire-balls and was counted of great defence as you may find amongst many other things in the Works of Diodorus Siculus where he sayes Tyrios immisse in Alexandri Magni machinamenta massas magnas ferreas candentes Out of many Authors may be proved the customary use in former times of Shooting red hot Pieces of Iron which we shall not dwell upon but come to the Practice First you must Charge the Piece of Ordnance according to the customary manner his due proportion of Powder upon this Powder you must put a Wooden Cylender or Fidd of a just and equal wideness with the bore of the Piece which must be driven very stiff home to the Powder and for your better security you must put upon this another wad made of Straw Hay or of Oakam or Tow this being done let the Piece be laid a little under Metal and then cleanse the vacant place or hollow of the Piece with a Spunge so that all the Grains of Powder that are there may be taken away This being done lay your Piece to bear with the place you intend to shoot at according to the method we have given in the second Part of Gunnery and let your Piece thus remain until you have put in your red hot Bullet your Bullet must be sure to be exactly round and not so high but that it may run freely down in the Piece to the wad the Shot being red hot take it out of the fire with a pair of Tongs made for that purpose and put it into the Piece and give an attentive Ear for as soon as the Shot is supposed to be up to the Wad give immediately Fire to your Piece of Ordnance There are others which put into their Pieces Boxes made of Plate of Iron or Copper Others do put into their Pieces Potters Clay and upon them the fiery Bullet which with a quick hand they thrust home with a Rammer which ought to be defended from fire by lining the Rammer head with Copper But these are more perillous and therefore we account that method above to be the best and most free from danger CHAP. XV. To Arm Pikes to defend a Ship or any other place TO arm Pikes to defend a ship or breach or to enter the same or to stick in the sides of a ship or other place take strong Canvas and cut it in length about a foot or 14 inches and six inches high in the Center and let the ends be both cut taper-wise then fasten the Canvas at both ends with strong twine and fill it with this receipt Powder bruised 8 parts Peter in Roch 1 part Peter in meal 1 part Sulphur in meal two parts Rozen Roch three parts Turpentine 1 part Verdigrease ½ part Bole-armonick ⅓ part Bay salt ⅓ part Colophonia ⅙ part Arsnick ⅛ part mix them very well together and try them in the top of a Brass Candlestick when the fire doth burn furiously with a blew and greenish colour then fill the Canvas and roul it over being first armed with strong twine all over with this liquid mixture molten in a pan Pitch four parts Linseed Oyl 1 part Turpentine ⅓ part Sulphur 1 part Tarr ⅓ part Tallow one part and as soon as this is cold bore two holes in each of the same next the Iron an inch deep with a sharp Iron Bodkin filling the same with fine bruised powder and putting in every hole a little stick of two inches long which are to be taken out when you would fire the same this composition will burn furiously And remember you cut off the staff some three inches from the work and put thereon a brass socket of five or six inches long and then cut the end of your staff to fill the socket for when you fire your work you may stick it in the side of a ship and pull the staff out again so will not the work be so easily avoided as when the staff was on and hangs at length because the very weight of the staff and length thereof will be a means to weigh down the work or that the enemie may come and thereby pull it out or beat it off quickly let the Composition and work contain in weight about 7 pounds then will it do execution and work a better effect than if it were of less weight by much by reason the composition else would be wasted before it comes to effect its Execution To burn the sayls
together tye it fast on that place take out the Former let it dry and it is done when the hole is contracted together make it so wide as is before taught with a round bodkin which you must provide for that purpose CHAP. II. How to make Compositions for Rockets of any size THese ways which I will teach you I take them not upon trust out of every Author but such as are men of known experience as that Casimier before spoken of and others of the like repute And first for Rockets of 1 ounce you must use only Cannon-powder dust being beaten in a Morter and finely sifted and this will rise swift and will make a great noise but carries no tayl Those of most beauty in their operation are made of 1 ounce of Charcoal-dust eight ounces of Powder this Composition will hold for Rockets of one two or three ounces but for those of four take three ounces of Charcoal-dust to one pound of Cannon-powder dust continuing that Rule until you come to Rockets of ten ounces and from thence to Rockets of a pound for there used to be one pound of Powder-dust to 4 ounces of Charcoal-dust But for better satisfaction observe these Rules For Rockets of one pound Take Powder 18 l. Salt-Peter 8 l. Charcoal 4 l. Sulphur 2 l For Rockets of two or three pound Take of Salt-Peter 60 l. Coal 15 l. Sulphur 2 l. For Rockets of four or five pound Take of Salt-Peter 64 l. Coal 16 l. Sulphur 8 l. For Rockets of six seven or eight pound Salt-Peter 35 l. Coal 10 l. Sulphur 5 l. For Rockets of nine or ten pound Salt-Peter 62 l. Coal 20 l. Sulphur 9 l. For Rockets from eleven to fifteen pound Salt-Peter 32 l. Sulphur 8 l. Coal 16 l. For Rockets from sixteen to twenty pound Salt-Peter 42 l. Coal 26 l. Sulphur 12 l. For Rockets from thirty to fifty pound Salt-Peter 30 l. Coal 18 l. Sulphur 7 l. For Rockets from sixty to a hundred pound Take Peter 30 l. Sulphur 10 l. Coal 10 l. CHAP. III. To fill the Rockets with this Composition PLace the mouth downwards where it was choaked and with a knife put in so much as you can of the receits provided for that size at one time then put down your Rammer which must be longer and narrower than the Former or Rouler upon which you made the Cases and with a hammer of a pound weight give three or four indifferent knocks then put in more composition with your knife until it be full at every time knocking the like as before with the Rammer until the composition come within one diameter of the bore of the top there put down a peece of pastboard and knock it in hard prick three or four little holes therein then put fine pistol powder in almost to the top and upon that another cap of paper upon which put a peece of leather that it may be tyed on the top of the Rocket and fast glued on then get a streight twig and bind it upon the Rocket with strong packthred it must be no heavier than being put upon your finger two or three fingers breadths from the mouth of the same it may just ballast the Rocket then it is prepared for use CHAP. IV. How to give fire to one or more Rockets SEt your Rockets mouth upon the edge of any peece of timber battlement of a wall top of the Gunners carriage wheel or any dry place whatsoever where the rod or twig may hang perpendicular from it then lay a train of powder that may come under the mouth thereof give fire thereunto and you have done But if you would fire more Rockets than one that as one descendeth the other may ascend by degrees make this composition following of Roch peter 8 ounces Quick Brimstone 4 ounces and fine Powder dust 2 ounces which lay in a line from one Rocket to another they being placed ten inches or a foot one from another give fire to this composition and it will work your desire by causing one to mount into the air when the other is spent but before you place your Rockets remember to prick them with the bodkin CHAP. V. Divers and sundry Compositions for Stars A Composition for Stars of a blew colour mixed with red TAke of Powder mealed 8 ounces Salt-Peter 4 ounces Quick Brimstone 12 ounces Meal all these very fine and mix them together with two ounces of Aqua-vitae and half an ounce of Oyl of Spike which let be very dry before you use it Another Composition which maketh a white and beautiful fire Take Powder 8 ounces Salt-Peter 24 ounces Quick Brimstone 12 ounces Camphire 1 ounce Meal these Ingredients and incorporate them Now to meal your Camphire take a brass pestle and morter wet the end of the pestle in a little of the Oyl of Almonds and it will meal to powder then keep it close from the air else it will become of no use Another white fire which lasteth long Take Powder 4 ounces Salt-Peter 16 ounces Brimstone 8 ounces Camphire 1 ounce Oyl of Peter 2 ounces Meal those that are to be mealed and mix them according to the former directions CHAP. VI. The manner of making Stars and to use them TAke little four square peeces of brown paper which fill with the composition you approve of best of the three last taught so double it down rouling it until you make it round about the bigness of a nut or bigger according to the size of your Rocket that you intend them for prime them withdrawing thorow them Cotton-week and they are prepared You may also make them after this manner you must have a rouler which must be as big as an ordinary arrow which shall be to roul a length of paper about it and with a little glue past it round when it is dry draw out the rouler and fill it by little and little with a thimble still thrusting it down every filling of a thimble with the rouler which being filled cut it in short pieces about half an inch long then having in readiness either hot glue or size mingled with red lead dip therein one end of your short peeces lest they take fire at both ends together and because that it may not so easily blow out these being thus finished set them to dry until you have occasion to use them and then putting the open end in powder on the top of the Rocket in that place after the first pastboard or cover is placed in a Rocket next the composition where I taught you before to put powder for to make a report which now you must leave out to place in these Stars after this manner make two or three holes in that pastboard which prime with powder-dust and thereupon put a little Pistol powder to blow the Stars out when the Rocket is spent after the powder put as I have said before the open ends of these Stars down upon that powder when you have put them