Zug and Glarona which was confirmed in the yeare 1454. In the third place are the Rhaeti called Grisons by the Itallians deuided into three leagues The first is called the vpper league consisting of nintene communities and was made with the seauen old cantons in the yeare 1407. The second in respect of the Bishoprick of Chur is called the league of the house of God consisting of nineteene communities wherof two vse the Language of Germany the rest the Language of the country being corrupt Italian which the yeare following ioined in league with the cantons The third league called the tenne iudgments or iurisdictions consisting of tenne communities ioined in the league with the Cantons in the yeare 1498 and at the same time the house of Austria preparing war against the Rhetians they all iointly made a perpetuall league of fellowship with all the Cantons In the fourth place the seauen tenths of the Valesians and the Bishop of Sedune Earle of Valesia for the controuersies of religion in our time made a perpetuall league of fellowship with seauen Cantons of the Roman Religion Lucerna Vria Suitia Vnderualdia Tugium vulgarly Zug Friburg and Solodurum vulgarly Solothurne The Towne Roteuilla in the fifth place made a perpetuall league of fellowship with all the Cantons in the yeere 1519 but because it is seated in Germany out of the confines of mountainous Sweitzerland caution was made that without the consent of the Cantons they shall make no warre nor giue any aides and if warre be made vpon them in case the enemy consent they shall rest in the iudgement which the Cantons shall hold iust and equall And that they shall make no league without the consent of the Cantons and in time of ciuill warre shall follow the greatest part of them In the sixth place Mulhusium of old an Imperiall City was incorporated to the City of Bazill in the yeere 1506 and after nine yeeres made a perpetuall league of fellowship with all the Cantons In the seuenth place the Towne Bienna or Bipennium enioying all priuiledges vnder the Bishop of 〈◊〉 in the yeere 1303 made a more firme league with Bern in the yeere 1352. In the eighth place is Geneua which gaue all rights and kept all olde couenants with the Bishop thereof till hee sold the same to the Duke of Sauoy After that time this City made diuers leagues with the Cantons for certaine yeeres and at last couenanted the right of Citizens with the Canton of Bern and being assailed for Religion confirmed the same more strictly in the yeere 1536 since which time some motions haue beene made to vnite Geneua with the Cantons in publike league but hitherto it could not be effected In the ninth and last place is the Towne Neocomum with the County thereof which the Sweitzers tooke in the warre against the King of France Lewis the twelfth and because it belonged to the Duke of Longouille in France his widow in the yeere 1529 obtained to haue it restored to her vpon certaine conditions yet still it hath league of fellowship with the Cantons of Bern Lucern Friburg and Solothurn and the Lords of the County haue a particular league with the Canton of Bern. Touching the people gouerned by the Sweitzers in common they be fiue stipendiary Cities and nine gouernements The Cities are so called because they serue the Sweitzers in warre at their stipend and hauing their owne Magistrates yet are subiect to the Cantons and ruled by their statutes These Cities of old subiect to the House of Austria became subiect to the Cantons vpon condition that keeping their priuiledges they should obey them in the same manner as formerly they did the house of Austria The Sweitzers took Baden Brimigart and Mallinga when the Duke of Austria was proscribed after the Emperour ingaged those cities to the Canton of Zurech which made other 7 cantons partners of that ingagemēt namely Lucerna Suitia Vnderualdia Vria Tugium Glarona and Berna The Sweitzers tooke Rapersuilla in the yeare 1458 being receiued into the city and helped by those of their faction And they tooke the fifth city Frawenfield in the yeare 1460 when the Duke of Austria was excommuned vpon the Popes command well pleasing to them Among the Gouernments that of Baden is subiect to the foresaid eight Cantons The second of Turg is subiect to al the same Cantons excepting Bern but the iudgements Fines belong to the ten old Cantons The third of the free Prouince was giuen to the Sweitzers in fee from the Emperor when the said Duke of Austria was proscribed and it is subiect to the same Cantons excepting Bern but the Gouernor dwels not among them onely vsing to come to them for the iudgement of causes The fourth is the country of the Sarunetes sold by their Earle to the said Cantons excepting Bern in the yeer 1483. The fist of the Rhegusei was sold to the Canton Apenzill in the yeare 1460 and the Cantons drew it to common subiection when Apenzill was admitted into the number of the Cantons so as Apenzill also is partner in that Gouernment In the last place are the foure Gouernments beyond the Alpes seated in Italy namely the town Lucanum the Locarnenses the Medrisians the middle vally which the Duke of Milan gaue to the Cantons for a reward vpon the casting out of the French in the yeare 1513 and yet the King of France Francis the first after vpon the casting out of that Duke confirmed this guift to the Cantons To these is added the towne Bilitioni sold to the Cantons Vria Suitia and Vnderualdia in the yeare 1422 the country wherof is diuided into three Gouernments commaunded by the said three Cantons by courses or turnes Touching forraigne leagues Among those made for certaine yeares Pope Sixtus in the yeare 1478 made league with the Sweitzers and gaue them large spirituall indulgences Likewise at the end of the Sweitzers league with the king of Fraunce Lewis the twelfth in the yeare 1509 Pope Iulius the second in the yeare 1510 made league with the Sweitzers but the soldiers leuied vnder the pay of Pope Iulius perceiuing that he delt not directly and truly with them imploying them to expell the king of Fraunce out of Milan whome he had hired vnder pretence to defend the Church against the Duke of Ferrara they could not containe themselues from returning sudenly into their country and being dismissed without pay they ceased not with many threatnings to storm against the Pope Yet in the yeer 1511 the same Pope Iulius being ouercome by the French he called the Sweitzers again to his aide who sent him an Army of 20000 foote at which time the Sweitzers being offended with the French cast them out of Milan wherupon Pope Iulius gaue to this commonwealth the title of the Defender of the Church diuers Banners charged with diuers Images and a Cap for signe of liberty with a sword Also Maximilianus Sfortia by their aide being
a stranger and a boat daily passeth from Stode thither in some three houres space if the winde bee not contrary wherein each man paies three Lubecke shillings for his passage but all Passengers without difference of condition must help to rowe or hire one in his stead except the winde bee good so as they need not vse their Oares besides that the annoyance of base companions will easily offend one that is any thing nice Hamburg is a Free Citie of the Empire and one of them which as I said are called Hansteten and for the building and populousnesse is much to be praised The Senate house is very beautifull and is adorned with carued statuaes of the nine Worthies The Exchange where the Merchants meet is a very pleasant place The Hauen is shut vp with an iron chaine The Citie is compassed with a deepe ditch and vpon the East and North sides with a double ditch and wall Water is brought to the Citie from an Hil distant some English mile by pipes of wood because those of lead would be broken by the yce and these pipes are to bee seene vnder the bridge whence the water is conuaied by them vnto each Citizens house The Territory of the Citie extendeth a mile or two and on one side three miles out of the walles It hath nine Churches and six gates called by the Cities to which they lead It is seated in a large plaine and a sandy soyle but hath very fatte pasture ground without On the South side and some part of the West it is washed with the Riuer Elue which also putteth a branch into the Towne but on the North and somewhat on the East side the Riuer Alster runneth by towards Stode and falleth into the Elue The streets are narrow excepting one which is called Broad-street vulgarly Breitgasse The building is all of bricke as in all the other Sea-bordering Cities lying from these parts towards Flanders and all the beautie of the houses is in the first entrance hauing broad and faire gates into a large Hal the lower part whereof on both sides is vsed for a Ware-house and in the vpper part lying to the view of the doore the chiefe houshold-stuffe is placed and especially their vessell of English Pewter which being kept bright makes a glittering shew to them that passe by so as the houses promise more beauty outwardly then they haue inwardly Here I paid each meale foure Lubeck shillings and one each night for my bed The Citizens are vnmeasurably ill affected to the English to whom or to any stranger it is vnsafe to walke out of the gates after noone for when the common people are once warmed with drinke they are apt to doe them iniury My selfe one day passing by some that were vnloading and telling of Billets heard them say these words Wirft den zehenden auff des Englanders kopf that is cast the tenth at the Englishmans head But I and my companions knowing well their malice to the English for the remouing their trafficke to Stode were content silently to passe by as if we vnderstood them not Hence I went out of the way to see Lubeck an Imperiall Citie and one of the aboue named Hans-townes being tenne miles distant from Hamburg Each of vs for our Coach paid twentie Lubeck shillings and going forth early wee passed through a marish and sandy plaine and many woods of Oakes which in these parts are frequent as woods of Firre be in the vpper part of Germany and hauing gone six miles we came to a Village called Altslow for the situation in a great marish or boggy ground where each man paid for his dinner fiue Lubeck shillings and a halfe our Dutch companions contributing halfe that money for drinke after dinner In the afternoone we passed the other foure miles to Lubeck in the space of foure houres and vntill we came within halfe a mile of the towne wee passed through some thicke woods of Oake with some faire pastures betweene them for the Germans vse to preserue their woods to the vttermost either for beautie or because they are so huge frequent as they cannot be consumed When we came out of the woods wee saw two faire rising Hills and the third vpon which Lubeck was feated On the top of this third Hill stood the faire Church of Saint Mary whence there was a descent to all the gates of the Citie whose situation offered to our eyes a faire prospect and promised great magnificence in the building The Citie is compassed with a double wall one of bricke and narrow the other of earth and broad fastned with thicke rowes of willowes But on the North side and on the South-east side there were no walles those parts being compassed with deepe ditches full of water On the South-east side the water seemeth narrow but is so deepe as ships of a thousand tunne are brought vp to the Citie to lie there all winter being first vnladed at Tremuren the Port of the City lying vpon the Baltick Sea To this Port one mile distant from Lubeck we came in three houres each man paying for his Coach fiue Lubeck shillings and foure for our dinner and returned backe the same night to Lubeck The building of this City is very beautifull all of bricke and it hath most sweete walkes without the walles The Citizens are curious to auoid ill smels to which end the Butchers haue a place for killing their beasts without the walles vpon a running streame Water is brought to euery Citizens house by pipes and all the Brewers dwelling in one street haue each of them his iron Cock which being turned the water fals into their vessels Though the building of this towne be of the same matter as that of the neighbouring townes yet it is much preferred before them for the beautie and vniformitie of the houses for the pleasant gardens faire streets sweete walkes without the walles and for the Citizens themselues who are much commended for ciuilty of manners and the strict execution of Iustice. The poore dwell in the remote-streets out of the common passages There is a street called the Funst Haussgasse that is the street of fiue houses because in the yeere 1278. it was all burnt excepting fiue houses since which time they haue a law that no man shall build of timber and clay except he diuide his house from his neighbours with a bricke wall three foot broad and that no man shall couer his house with any thing but tiles brasse or leade The forme of this Citie is like a lozing thicke in the midst and growing narrower towards the two ends the length whereof is from the gate called Burke Port towards the South to Millen Port towards the North. Wee entred the Towne by Holtz Port on the West side to which gate Hickster Port is opposite on the East side It is as long againe as broad and two streets Breitgasse that is Broad-street and Konnigsgasse that is Kings-street runne the whole
water out of England they could neuer make their beere so much esteemed as the English which indeed is much bettered by the carriage ouer sea to these parts Hence I went to Sluse so called of the damme to let waters in and out and came thither in two houres paying for my waggon thirteene stiuers which I hired alone for if I had light vpon company we should haue paied no more betweene vs. Hence I passed the Riuer Mase where it falleth into the sea and came to Brill my selfe and two others paying twelue stiuers for our passage but the barke being presently to returne and therefore not entring the Port set vs on land neere the Towne whether we walked on foot Brill is a fortified Towne laid in pledge to Queene Elizabeth for money she lent the States and it was then kept by foure English Companies paid by the Queene vnder the gouernment of the Lord Burrowes The Towne is seated in an Iland which was said to bee absolute of it selfe neither belonging to Zealand nor Holland On the North side the Riuer Mase runneth by On the East side are corne fieldes and the Riuer somewhat more distant On the South side are corne fields On the West side are corne fields and the maine Sea little distant Here I paied for my supper and dinner twenty stiuers and for a pot of wine eighteene stiuers From hence I returned by water to Roterodam in Holland and paied for my passage three stiuers In the mouth of the Riuer of Roterodam lies the City Arseldipig and another called Delphs-Ile being the Hauen of Delph which was then a pleasant Village but growing to a City and hauing beene lately burnt by fire was fairely rebuilded Roterodam lies in length from the East to the West The Hauen is on the South side being then full of great ships vpon which side it lay open without walles hauing many faire houses and a sweet walke vpon the banke of the water Neither is it fortified on the sides towards the land nor seemed to mee able to beare a siege hauing low walles on the North and East sides yet compassed with broad ditches The street Hoch-street is faire and large extending it selfe all the length of the Citie and lying so as from the gate at the one end you may see the gate at the other end and in this street is the Senate house In the market place toward the West is the statua of Erasmus being made of wood for the Spaniards brake downe that which was made of stone and the inscription thereof witnesseth that hee was borne at Roterodame the twenty eight of October in the yeere 1467 and died at Bazel the twelfth of Iuly in the yeere 1531. In New-Kirk-street there is the house in vvhich Erasmus was borne vvherein a Taylor dwelled at this time and vpon the vvall thereof these Verses are written AEdibus his natus mundum decorauit Erasmus Artibus ingenuis Religione side The world Erasmus in this poore house borne With Arts Religion Faith did much adorne The same Verses also vvere vvritten in the Flemmish tongue and vpon the vvall vvas the picture of Erasmus Vpon the same West side is the house for exercise of shooting in the Peece and Crosse-bow The vvaters of Roterodam and Delph being neere the sea are more vvholesome then the standing waters within land Heere I lodged at an English-mans house and paied for my supper tenne stiuers for my breakfast two stiuers and for beere betweene meales fiue stiuers by which expence compared vvith that of the Flemmish Innes it is apparant that strangers in their reckonings pay for the intemperate drinking of their Dutch companions From hence I went by sea three miles to Dort in two houres space to which City we might haue gone great part of the way by vvaggon as farre as Helmund but then we must needs haue crossed an Inland sea for the City is seated in an Iland hauing beene of old diuided from the continent of Holland in a great floud The forme of the City resembles a Galley the length whereof lies from the East to the West Wee landed vpon the North side lying vpon the sea where there be two gates but of no strength On the East side is the New gate Reydike and beyond a narrow water lye fenny grounds On the South side the ditch is more narrow yet the sea ebbs and flowes into it and vpon old walles of stone is a conuenient walking place On this side is the gate Spey-port and beyond the ditch lye fenny grounds On the West side is the gate Feld-port and a like walke vpon walles of stone and there is a greater ebbing and flowing of the sea There is a great Church built of bricke and couered with slate being stately built vvith Arched cloysters and there of old the Counts of Holland were consecrated From this part the two fairest streets Reydike-strat and Wein-strat lie windingly towards the North. Turning a little out of the faire street Reydike-strat towards the South lies the house for exercise of shooting in the Peece Crosse-bow and there by is a very pleasant groue vpon the trees vvhereof certaine birds frequent which we call Hearnes vulgarly called Adhearne or Regle and their feathers being of great price there is a great penalty set on them that shall hurt or annoy those birds There is a house vvhich retaines the name of the Emperor Charles the fift and another house for coyning of money for the Counts of Holland vvere vvont to coyne money at Dort as the Counts of Zealand did at Midleburg Betweene the faire streets Reydike-strat and Wein-strat is the Hauen for ships to be passed ouer by bridges and there is a market place and the Senate house vvhich hath a prospect into both these streets The houses are higher built then other where in Holland and seeme to be of greater Antiquity This Citie by priuiledge is the staple of Rhenish vvines vvhich are from hence carried to other Cities so as no imposition being here paied for the same the pot of Rhenish wine is sold for twelue stiuers for which in other places they pay eighteene or twenty stiuers For three meales I paied heere thirty stiuers From hence I vvent by water to the States Campe besieging Getrudenberg and came thither in two houres space but the vvindes being very tempestuous wee saw a boat drowned before vs out of which one man onely escaped by swimming who seemed to me most wretched in that hee ouer-liued his wife and all his children then drowned The besieged City lies in the Prouince of Brabant and the County of Buren being the inheritance of the Prince of Orange by right of his wife and in this Month of Iune it was yeelded to Count Maurice the Spanish Army lying neere but not being able to succour it The Sea lying vpon this part of Brabant was of old firme land ioined to the continent till many villages by diuers floods and seuenteene
Parishes at once by a famous flood were within lesse then 200. yeeres agoe swallowed vp of the Sea and for witnes of this calamity diuers Towers farre distant the one from the other appeare in this Sea and according to the ebbing and flowing more or lesse seene doe alwaies by their sad spectacle put the passengers in mind of that wofull euent And the Hollanders say that these flouds caused the Rheine to change his bed as hereafter I shall shew in the due place From Count Maurice his Campe at Getrudenberg I failed in six houres space to the Iland Plate and at midnight putting forth againe failed in ten houres space to the Iland Tarlot and from thence in three houres space to the City Bergenapzome where we landed By the way we saw one of the aforesaid Towers high aboue the water being a steeple of some parish Church swallowed vp in the said deluge of which there be many like sad remembrances in this Inland sea The channell leading to the City is called Forcemer and hath vpon the banke many strong sorts and in this channell lay a man of warre to defend passengers from the bordering enemy This City is strongly fortified and is sented in Brabant and had many castles of the enemy lying neerert and it was gouerned by a garison of English not in the Queenes but in the States pay as Ostend at that time was whereas Virshing and Brill pledged to the Queen for money wore kept by English Garisons in the Queenes pay and Sir Thomas Morgan was at this time Gouernour of this City At out entrance euery man gaue his nameto the Guard Without the City on the West side many akers of land were drowned when the Prince of Orange as I said let in the waters to driue the Spaniards out of those parts which from that day to this could neuer be dried and gained againe On this side I entered the City where be many poore houses built in forme of a Lutes necke which being added to the City almost of a round forme make the whole City much like vnto a Lute On this side were three strong rauelings and vppon the necke of the said Lute is the Hauen in the channell Forcemer which going no further into the land endeth in a mill made of purpose to keepe the ebbing water so as the ditches may alwaies be full On the North side is the prison not vnpleasant for situation and the English House and the House of the Gouernour which of old belonged to the Count of Brabant Betweene the Gates wouldport and Stephenbergport which are both strongly fortified the Riuer Zome fals into the Towne whereof it hath the name yet the channell being stopped it seemes here a standing water rather then a Riuer Towards the East the City is very strongly fortified and there is the Gate Boskport so called as I thinke of the word Bosco which in the Italian tongue signifies a wood for on this side without the gates were many woods and orchards till they were destroied in the warre On this side is another Raueling of great length and beyond the fortifications lie faire pastures but somewhat couered with waters And from hence wee might see Woudcastle scarce three English miles distant which was then possessed by the Spaniards On the South side is a new fort beyond a strong bulwarke and a very strong counterscarp compassing the City And from hence was of old a most pleasant walke vnder the shade of trees to the old castle some mile distant On this side in a pleasant groue were many such birds as I said to be at Dort vulgarly called Adherne much esteemed for the fethers they beare in their fore head and there is a penalty set on those that hurt or driue them away On this side also is the English Church and vpon this and the East sides the Prince of Parma in camped when hee besieged this City There is in the middest of the City a triangular market place and from the sharpe end thereof towards the West siue rauelings run beyond the wals The houses are built of bricke and seeme to be built of old The Church hath a very high steeple whence the watchmen shew the comming and number of horse-men by hanging out white flagges and of foot by redde All the Villages hereabouts though liuing vnder the Spaniard yet pay contribution to this Garrison lest the souldiers should vpon aduantage breake out and spoile them The Citizens liue of mannall arts and the expences of the Garison From hence I sayled to Midleburge and at one ebbe of the Sea passed in seuen houres space to Der-goese and at another ebbe in foure houres space to Armaren a City of the Iland Walkern belonging to Zealand and I paid for my passage six stiuers From hence in halfe an houre I walked on foot to Midleburge the houses whereof are stately built and very high especially the new City and are all of bricke as be the Cities of Holland and as be the houses of Vlishing but some of these are stately built of free stone yet the streetes are somewhat narrow Here I paid for my supper fiue stiuers in the English House where the Host is onely bound to prouide for the Merchants and such gucsts as they inuite yet many times he admits English Gentlemen both to lodge and eat there The House lies in the street Longdels and howsoeuer the Merchants cat there yet they hier their lodgings scatteringly in the City and refused an Abbey which the Senators offered them to lodge therein perhaps out of feare lest in any ciuill tumult they might more easily be wronged if they should all lie together This City is the Staple of all Merchandise excepting Rhenish wine for which by old priuiledge Dorte is the Staple Therefore French and Spanish Wines are here sold much more cheape then other where because they are free of impost in this place and haue great impositions laid on them being carried out to other Cities The forme of the City is round saue that on the East side the buildings of the new City being vnperfected made it to haue the forme of a halfe Moone though the plot thereof were round Comming from Armuren I entered on this East side by a very faire gate called the New Gate where the water falling into the Towne passeth to the Burse where the Merchants meet There is a publike House for shooting the wall on this side as round about the City is of stone and is rather adorned then fortified with some Towers And this wall is double vpon the Inner whereof compassed with deepe ditches many Houses are built On the West side without the gates almost halfe way to Vlishing is Rammakins Castle kept by English Souldiers sent from Vlishing to that purpose being a place of great importance because the channell going to Midleburge runnes within the command of their Artillery On this South side is the Hauen and without the wals very faire pastures
set round about with willowes Here is the publike house for exercise of shooting in the Peece and Crosse-bow which hath a sweet prospect into a large greene plaine where they vse to spread linnen clothes in the sunne and here certaine rowes of trees being planted yeeld a pleasant shade to them that walke therein One of the said rowes of trees called Vinareberg leades to an old Castle of the Counts of Holland compassed with a drie ditch in which Count Maurice dwelt but in the great Hall thereof were many shops of Merchants for small wares Vpon the wals of the said Castle and vpon the windowes of the Church these words were written in latine To Charles the fifth c. To the most inuincible Caesar Charles the fifth Roman Emperour the victorious desender of the Catholike Religion and Augustus The Prouisors of this House haue placed this in the yeere 1547. Thereby was the statua of Charles the fifth kneeling on his knees In the window were painted the Armes of all the Knights of the golden Fleece The Histories of the Countrey report the building of this Pallace to be wonderfull in that the top of the Hall is not ioined with beames but with arches but for my part I obserued no great magnificence in the worke The second of the foresaid rowes of trees called Furholt leads to a gentlemans house the fairest most stately built in this Village In the middest of the Hage lies the market place and the Church On the South side is the water that leader to Delph and round about on all sides without the Village are faire pastures excepting the North-side where the sandy downes of the Sea lie neere to the Village In the Church is a Monument of Count Albertus Duke of Bauria and another of a Count of Hanaw with diuers others which I omit as hauing no antiquity or magnificence While I staied at the Hage I walked out in halfe an houres space to the village Lausdune where I saw a wonderfull monument the History whereof printed in a paper the Earle of Leicester as they said had carried with him into England leauing onely the same in written hand the coppy whereof I will set downe first remembring that two basens of brasse hanged on the wall in which the children whereof I shall speak were baptized The manuscript was in latine a followeth En tibi monstrosum nimis memorabile factum Quale nec a Mundi conditione datum Haec lege mox animo stupefactus lector abibis So strange and monstrous thing I tell As from the worlds frame nere befell He parts amasde that markes it well The rest in latine is thus englished Margaret wife to Hermanuus Count of Henneberge daughter to Florence Count of Holland and Zealand sifter to William King of the Romans and Caesar or Gouermour of the Empire This most noble Countesse being about forty two yeeres old the very day of preparation called Paraseene about nine of the clocke in the yeere 1276. brought forth at one birth three hundred sixty fiue children which being baptized in two basens of brasse by Guido suffragan of Vtretcht all the males were called Iohn and all the females Elizabeth but all of them together with the mother died in one and the same day and lie buried here in the Church of Lausdune and this happened to her in that a poore woman bearing in her armes two twinnes the Countesse wondering at it said shee could not haue them both by one man and so reiected her with scorne whereupon the woman sore troubled wished that the Countesse might haue as many childen at a birth as there be daies in the whole yeere which besides the course of nature by miracle fell out as in this table is briefly set downe for perpetuall memory out of old Chronicles as well written as printed Almighty God must be in this beheld and honoured and extolled with praises for euer and euer Amen From the Hage my selfe and other consorts hired a Waggon for two guldens and passed to Leyden hauing on both sides faire pastures fruitfull corne fields and some pleasant groues CHAP. V. Of my iourney out of the vnited Prouinces by the Sea coast to Stode and Lubeck in Germany Of my sauing to Denmarke and thence to Dantzk in Prussen and my iourney through Poland to Padoua in Italy IN the end of the Month of Iune and the yeere 1593 hauing now dispatched by Letters all my businesse in England and hauing seene the vnited Prouinces I was in doubt by what way I should returne into Italy and hauing already passed the two waies of Germany that by Augspurge and the other by the Sweitzers and the way by France being then shut vp by the ciuill warres the common desire of Trauellers not to passe the same way twice but to see as many new Countries as their course will permit made me resolue to passe through the Kingdomes of Denmarke and Poland and by the fortified City of Wien in Austria In which iourney howsoeuer I should goe much out of my way and was like to indure many troubles yet I thought nothing was difficult to a willing minde Therefore I hired a waggon from Leyden to Vtrecht and paied for my part twelue stiuers Wee passed three miles and a halfe in three houres by the village Alpha where the Spaniards incamped when they besieged Leyden and by a little Towne called Gonda hauing on both sides faire pastures but somewhat ouer flowed and ditches set with willowes and we came to a little village where the waggoner gaue his horses meat Then in foure houres space wee passed foure miles and a halfe hauing on both sides fruitfull corne fields and like ditches set with willowes and so we came to Vtrecht But a mile and a halfe before we came thither we passed out of the Territory of Holland and entred the Bishopricke of Vtrecht which is one of the vnited Prouinces Not farre from the City wee saw a crosse set vp for a Monument of a Bishop dying in battell against the Hollanders I had almost forgotten the little City Werden which they shewed vs by the way and told vs that the forme thereof was like the City of Ierusalem which at that time I had not seene and therefore mention this from their report rather then from my iudgement The City Vtrecht is seated in length from South-east by East to North-west by West and vpon the end at South-east by East is the gate Weitefraw where the Rheine enters the City At the other end Noth-west by West are the ruines of an old Castle which the Spaniards kept before the wars to bridle the City and there be two gates Saint Katherine-port and Wert-port each of them hauing their suburbes On the South-west side are walles of earth but the ditches were almost dry On the North-east side is the gate Olske-port and there bee three strong Rauelings one defending the other On this side bee two streets fairer then the
twelfth did build with Regall expence this Chamber and another called the Chamber of Accounts vulgarly la chambre des comptes In this Pallace the Chappell built by Saint Lewis lyes vpon an arched Chappell which hath no pillars in the middest but onely on the sides and they say that the true Images of Christ and the blessed Virgin are vpon the lower dore And in this Chappell the reliques are kept which Balduinus the Emperour of Constantinople ingaged to the Venetians and the King of France redeemed out of their hands In the very Hall of the Pallace round about the pillars are shops of small wares or trifles Right against the Gate of the Pallace stood the house of Iohn Chastell which was pulled downe in memorie of a young man his sonne brought vp among the Iesuites and a practiser of their wicked doctrine who attempting the death of King Henrie the fourth did strike out one of his teeth I haue said formerly that this Iland was ioyned to the Ville by three Bridges and to the Vniuersitie by two Bridges and at this time is ioyned to them both by the sixth Bridge The first V Bridge towards South-East leades to the street of Saint Martin and is called pont de nostre Dame that is the Bridge of our Lady and it was built of wood in the yeere 1417 hauing threescore walking paces in length and eighteene in breadth and threescore houses of bricke on each side built vpon it But this bridge in the time of Lewis the twelfth falling with his owne weight was rebuilt vpon sixe Arches of stone with threescore eight houses all of like bignesse built vpon it and was paued with stone so that any that passed it could hardly discerne it to bee a Bridge The second Bridge of the Broakers vulgarly W Pont au Change is supported with pillars of wood The third Bridge of the Millers vulgarly called X Pont aux Musniers lies towards the North-West and leades to the streete of Saint Denis which they say did fall and was rebuilt within three yeeres then past By these three Bridges the Iland was of old ioyned to the Ville The fourth Bridge lying on the other side of the Iland towards the South leades into the streete of Saint Iames and is called Y le petit pont that is The little Bridge being rebuilt or repaired of stone by King Charles the sixth The sifth Bridge is called Z Saint Michell and lying towards the South-West side leades into the streete of Saint Michell and hath a pleasant walke towards the foresaid Bridge of the millers on the other side of the Iland and built vpon pillars of wood was repaired in the yeere 1547 and adorned with bricke houses By these two Bridges the Iland was of old ioyned to the Vniuersitie Since that time after the ende of the Ciuill warre a new Bridge hath been lately built on that side of the Iland which lyes towards the north-North-West and it is called XX pont neuf that is The new Bridge ioyning the Iland both to the Ville and to the Vniuersitie The chiefe streetes of the Iland are the very Bridges and the 〈◊〉 waies leading to the Cathedrall Church and to the greater Pallace The Church or the little Citie compassed with walles in respect of the Church of Saint Denis the Protecting Saint of the French is two little miles distant from Paris Hither I went passing by the Gate of Saint Denis lying towards the North East Thence I passed vpon a way paued with Flint in a large Plaine towards the East hauing Mount Falcon on my right hand whether I said that they vse to draw the dead bodies of those that are beheaded in the Ville and the next way to this mount is to goe out by the Gate of Saint Martin And vpon my left hand I had the Mountaine of the Martirs vulgarly called Mont Martre and the next way from the Citie to this Mountaine is to goe out by the Gate Mont Martre Vpon this Mountaine they say that the Martyrs Dennis Areopagita and Rustieus and Eleutherius were beheaded in the time of Domitian because they would not offer sacrifice to Mercurie And they constantly beleeue this miracle that all these three Martyrs carried each one his head to the Village Catula which now is called Saint Dennis And I obserued by the way many pillars with Altars set vp in the places where they say the Martyrs rested forsooth with their heades in their hand and at last fell downe at Catula where this Church was built ouer them and likewise a a Monastery by King Dagobertus who also lyes there buried and hath a statua in the Cloister of the Monastery Here are the Sepulchers of the Kings among which that of King Francis the 〈◊〉 is somewhat more stately then the other being of white Marble with the statuaes of that King and his Queene Claudia there buried with him That of Lewis the twelfth and his Queene is of white Marble but lesse faire and the third erected to Charles the eight in a Chappell of the Church is of blacke Marble with some statuaes of brasse To conclude to euery three or foure of the rest of the Kings one poore monument is erected Neither are these sepulchers of the Kings in my opinion any thing stately or answerable to the fame But at the entrance of the Chauncell the representation of Christ buried and of the three Kings or Wisemen and of the shepheards and others there engrauen seemed to me who haue no skill in that Art to bee of much Art and beautie I haue read other Itineraries which relate that here are bells of most pure Mettal that the dores are of Brasse guilded ouer that the Table of the high Altar is of Gold that here is a Crosse of Gold offered by King Dagobert that the bodies of the Martyrs are laid in a coffin of Gold that the roofe of the Church is partly of siluer and that there is a Crucifix of Gold before the Altar But I should thinke that these old ornaments are taken away and not to bee seene at this day Hauing viewed Paris I desired to see the French King Henrie the fourth and his Court and because I lately had been robbed aswell of my cloake as of my Crownes here I bought for some two French Crownes an old cloake among the Brokers in the Market place called the Fripperie So I tooke my iourney towards the Court and went by boate vpon the Seyne which boat daily passeth from Paris towards the South nine leagues to Corbeuile and foure leagues to Melune hauing on both sides pleasant Hilles planted with Vines and I payed seuen soulz for my passage Then I went on foote foure miles ouer a Mountaine paued with Flint to the Kings Pallace called Fontain-bleau that is the Fountaine of faire water Beyond the same Mountaine this Pallace of the King is seated in a Plaine compassed with Rockes And it is built with Kingly Magnificence of Free-stone diuided into
hauing eleuen pillars seuen foote distant one from the other whereof many were of porphery and had beautifull spots The highest roofe of the Church on the inside is painted with Histories of the Scripture with a rich painting that shineth with gold and glasse as if it were enameled called in Italian Alla Mosaica and the pauement is rich with stones of marble porphery and Iaspar From the lesse Church called of Saint Katherine we entred a Caue vnder the earth where the Friars gaue euery one of vs a lighted waxe candle in his hand Let them place what religion they will therein I am sure the Caue was so darke as we could not haue passed it without a light In this Caue wee did first see the bones of the Infants killed by Herod then the Sepulchers of Eusebius and of Saint Ierome in his Chappell for they hold that he long dwelt there Then they did lead vs into a more darke place where they say he did liue an austere life fifty yeeres space and translated the Bible out of Hebrew into Latine and wrote many volumes But the place seemed to me more fit to dull the braine then to yeeld such fruites of wit by reason it was darke and digged deepe vnder ground From this Caue we ascended by ten marble staires into a Chappell all couered with marble and lying in length from the West at which end we entered to the East And from this West end as well Turkes as Christians of all sects goe vpon their knees to the Easterne end and there kisse a marked stone in the pauement in which verie place they say the Redeemer of the World was borne By this stone on the South-side lieth a little Chappell hauing two doores onely diuided with a pillar In which Chappell at the right hand or West-side is a manger raised from the ground and all of marble in which they say Christ was laid after his birth and in the wall they shew a stone hauing as they say the liuely picture of Saint Hierome In the said little Chappell on the left hand or East side they shew a place where they say Christ was circumcised and shed the first drops of his precious blood for the sauing of mankind And there they fhewed another place where they say the Wise-men of the East adored Christ and offered to him their gifts The wals of both Chappels the pauements and all things are couered with marble The roofe on the inside is painted with the foresaid rich pictures glistering likeenamelled worke To conclude all things are stately and rich and remain so vnder the Turkish tiranny yet more rich in the Chappell of Chrsts birth then in the greater Church where all things then began to fall to ruine because the Turkes beleeue not that Christ died The Turkes doe so reuerence this monument of Christs birth as they creepe groueling vpon hands knees to kisse the said stone yet in the meane time they despise the monuments of his death because they beleeue not that he died From hence going Backe the same way we entered they shew vpon the right hand a hole in the highest roofe of the Church by which they say the starre that conducted the Wise-men fell from aboue into the bowels of the earth Can he forbeare laughter who considers the bignes of the starres yea euen of Comets as some write that was specially finding no mention of this falling of the starre to be made in the holy scriptures The City or Village of Bethlehem is distant from Ierusalem some fiue miles in Turky I alwaies vnderstand Italian miles and we came hither from the Westerne gate of Ierusalem through a faire way and mountaines planted with Vines Oliues and fruitfull Trees Bethlehem is seated vpon Mountaines and hath pleasant hils on the East and South-sides a pleasant plaine on the North-side ending in great mountaines towards Ierusalem 84 As wee went out of Bethlehem to visit the Monuments here they shewed vs the field in which the Angell made knowne the birth of Christ to the Shepheards and the Caue wherein they did lie by day to shun the heate of the Sunne 85 Here they say the Patriarch Lot planted the first Vine 86 Here beyond pleasant Hilles wee did distinctly see the Plaine of Iordan and the dead Sea with the situation of Sodom and Gomorra 87 Here they say Bethalia was seated of old 88 Here we did see the ruines of a house in which they say Ioseph the Virgins Husband did dwell 89 Here they say the Virgin hid her selfe from the tyranny of Herod 90 Here they say that King Salomon had his Garden The Franciscan Friers sent out of Italy each third yeere into these parts did courtcously intertaine vs at Bethlehem and at our first comming in imitation of Christ they washed our feete It happened that my brother fell sicke here of an Ague and so when our consorts vpon Saterday in the euening returned to Ierusalem wee were forced to stay here that night But the next day in the euening we came to them at the Monastery of Ierusalem And because they made haste to returne homeward wee went forth the next day being Munday the tenth of Iune earely in the morning to see the Mountaines of Iudea And that day it happened that I was troubled with loosenesse of body whereof I made good vse as I shall hereafter shew which makes me name it We went out of the Citie at the Gate of Ioppa on the West side and vpon our right hand they shewed vs 91 this place where they say that Salomon was anointed King 92 Thence we went right forward to a Fountaine in the Desart where they say Phillip the Apostle did interpret the Scriptures to the Eunuch of Candace Queene of Ethropii and baptized him 93 Here they say is the Desart in which Iohn Baptist preached and they shewed vs his Caue cut out of a Rocke and a long stone therein vpon which he vsed to lye and a pleasant spring issuing out of the Rocke where hee vsed to drinke and another stone vpon which he vsed to sit 94 He e we came to the Mountaines or Mountanous places of Iudea and here they say the Prophet Zacharias dwelt where a woman of the Moores kept the Church of old built there 95 From hence a Musket shot or little more is another house which they say belonged to Zacharias and in one of these houses he pronounced the Song Blessed bee the Lord God of Israel c. And when the Virgin visited Elizabeth the Babe here sprang in her wombe and the Virgin here pronounced the Song My soule doth magnifie c. And Iohn Raptist was borne here 96 From this place they say the Tree was taken vpon which the Crosse of Christ was made and Greeke Friers keepe the Church that was here built This place is two miles distant from Ierusalem whether we returned the same way we came out and entered the Citie by the West Gate of Ioppa The
higher and higher towards the West and consists especially of one broad and very faire street which is the greatest part and sole ornament thereof the rest of the side streetes and allies being of poore building and inhabited with very poore people and this length from the East to the West is about a mile whereas the bredth of the City from the North to the South is narrow and cannot be halfe a mile At the furthest end towards the West is a very strong Castle which the Scots hold vnexpugnable Camden saith this Castle was of old called by the Britaines Castle meyned agnea by the Scots The Castle of the Maids or Virgines of certaine Virgines kept there for the Kings of the Picts and by Ptolomy the winged Castle And from this Castle towards the West is a most steepe Rocke pointed on the highest top out of which this Castle is cut But on the North South sides without the wals lie plaine and fruitfull fields of Corne. In the midst of the foresaid faire streete the Cathedrall Church is built which is large and lightsome but little stately for the building and nothing at all for the beauty and ornament In this Church the Kings seate is built some few staires high of wood and leaning vpon the pillar next to the Pulpit And opposite to the same is another seat very like it in which the incontinent vse to stand and doe pennance and some few weekes past a Gentleman being a stranger and taking it for a place wherein Men of better quality vsed to sit boldly entred the same in Sermon time till he was driuen away with the profuse laughter of the common sort to the disturbance of the whole Congregation The houses are built of vnpolished stone and in the faire streete good part of them is of free stone which in that broade streete would make a faire shew but that the outsides of them are faced with wooden galleries built vpon the second story of the houses yet these galleries giue the owners a faire and pleasant prospect into the said faire and broad street when they sit or stand in the same The wals of the City are built of little and vnpolished stones and seeme ancient but are very narrow and in some places exceeding low in other ruiued From Edenborow there is a ditch of water yet not running from the Inland but rising ofsprings which is carried to Lethe and so to the Sea Lethe is seated vpon a creek of the Sea called the Frith some mile from Edenborow and hath a most commodious and large Hauen When Monsieur Dessy a Frenchman did fortifie Lethe for the strength of Edenborow it began of a base Village to grow to a Towne And when the French King Francis the second had married Mary Queene of the Scots againe the French who now had in hope deuoured the possession of that Kingdome and in the yeere 1560. began to aime at the conquest of England more strongly fortified this Towne of Lethe but Elizabeth Queene of England called to the succour of the Lords of Scotland against these Frenchmen called in by the Queene soone effected that the French returned into their Countrey and these fortifications were demolished Erom Leth I crossed ouer the Frith which ebs and flowes as high as Striuelin to the Village King-korn being eight miles distant and seated in the Region or Country called Fife which is a Peninsule that is almost an Iland lying betweene two creekes of the Sea called Frith and Taye and the Land yeelds corne and pasture and seacoales as the Seas no lesse plentifully yeeld among other fish store of oysters shel fishes and this Countrey is populous and full of Noblemens and Gentlemens dwellings commonly compassed with little groues though trees are so rare in those parts as I remember not to haue seene one wood From the said Village King-korn I rode ten very long miles to Falkeland then the Kings House for hunting but of old belonging to the Earles of Fife where I did gladly see I ames the sixth King of the Scots at that time lying there to follow the pastimes of hunting and hawking for which this ground is much commended but the Pallace was of old building and almost ready to fall hauing nothing in it remarkeable I thought to haue ridden from hence to Saint Andrewes a City seated in Fife and well known as an Vniuersity and the seate of the Archbishop But this iourney being hindred I wil onely say that the Bishop of Saint Andrewes at the intercession of the King of Scotland Iames the third was by the Pope first made Primate of all Scotland the same Bishop and all other Bishops of that Kingdome hauing formerly to that day beene consecrated and confirmed by the Archbishop of Yorke in England Likewise I purposed to take my iourney as farre as Striuelin where the King of the Scots hath a strong Castle built vpon the front of a steepe Rocke which King Iames the sixth since adorned with many buildings and the same hath for long time beene committed to the keeping of the Lords of Eriskin who likewise vse to haue the keeping of the Prince of Scotland being vnder yeeres And from thence I purposed to returne to Edenborow but some occasions of vnexpected businesse recalled me speedily into England so as I returned presently to Edenborow and thence to Barwicke the same way I came I adde for passengers instruction that they who desire to visit the other Counties of England and Ireland may passe from Edenborow to Carlile chiefe City of Comberland in England and so betweene the East parts of Lancashire and the West parts of Yorke and then through Darbyshire Nottinghamshire Warwickeshire Staffordshire and Chesshire may take their iourney to the City Westchester whence they shall haue commodity to passe the Sea to Dablin in Ireland and while they expect this passage they may make a cursory iourney into Flintshire and Caernaruenshire in Northwales to see the antiquities thereof or otherwise may goe directly to Holy Head and thence make a shorter cut to Dublyn in Ireland From Dublyn they may passe to see the Cities of the Prouince Mounster whence they may commodiously passe to the South parts of Wales and there especially see the antiquities of Merlyn and so taking their iourney to the West parts of England may search the antiquities of these seuerall Counties and easily find commoditie to passeinto the West parts of France And all this circuit beginning at London may with ordinary fauourable winds according to the season of the yeere be easily made from the beginning of March to the end of September Alwaies I professe onely to prescribe this course to such as are curious to search all the famous monuments and antiquities of England mentioned in Camdens compleat description thereof CHAP. VI. Of the manner to exchange Moneys into forraine parts and the diuers moneys of diuers parts together with the diuers measures of miles in sundry Nations most necessary
chiefe Commanders of the Army subscribed with their hands dated the one twentie of August that for that time more could not be enterprised for these reasons that the Army was vnwilling to bee drawne towards Vlster so as many ran away from their Colours that many were sicke that no Plantation could be made this yeere at Loughfoyle nor any course taken to diuert Tyrones forces that the Connaght Army was defeated that his Lordships Army had not aboue foure thousand able men at the most that these were vnable to stand against the rebels being six thousand shot and lying within strong intrenchments that much lesse any strong Garrisons could bee left in the North and a safe retreit made And lastly that those Garrisons if they could bee left there would more endanger the English being continually to supply them with vittles in winter time then annoy the rebels Her Maiestie being highly offended that so royall an Army maintained with her excessiue charge had in sixe moneths effected nothing and now gaue no hope of any important seruice to be done against the rebels wrote a sharpe letter to the Lord Lieurenant and the Counsell of Ireland as followeth Elizabeth Regina By the Queene RIght trusty and right well beloued Cosen and Councellor and trusty and welbe-loued We greet you well Hauing sufficiently declared vnto you before this time how little the manner of your proceedings hath answered either our direction or the worlds expectation And finding now by your letters by Cuffe a course more strange if stranger may be we are doubtful what to prescribe you at any time or what to build vpon by your owne writings to vs in any thing For we haue clearely discerned of late that you haue euer to this hower possessed vs with expectations that you would proceede as we directed you But your actions shew alwaies the contrary though carried in such sort as you were sure we had no time to countermaund them Before your departure no mans counsell was held sound which perswaded not presently the maine prosecution in Vlster all was nothing without that and nothing was too much for that This drew on the sudden transportation of so many thousands to be carried ouer with you as when you arriued we were charged with more then the liste or which wee resolued to the number of three hundred horse Also the thousand which were onely to be in pay during the seruice in Vlster haue been put in charge euer since the first iourney The pretence of which voyage as appeareth by your letters was to doe some present seruice in the Interim whilest the season grew more commodious for the maine prosecution for the which purpose you did importune with great earnestnesse that all manner of prouisions might be hastned to Dublin against your returne Of this resolution to deferre your going into Vlster you may well thinke that wee would haue made stay if you had giuē vs more time or it we could haue imagined by the contents of your owne writings that you would haue spent nine weekes abroad At your returne when a third part of Iuly was past and that you had vnderstood our mislike of your former course and making your excuse of vndertaking it onely in respect of your conformitie to the Councels opinions with great protestations of haste into the North we receiued another letter of new reasons to suspend that iourney yet a while and to draw the Army into Ophalia The fruit whereof was no other at your comming home but more relations of further miseries of your Army and greater difficulties to performe the Vlster warre Then followed from you and the Councell a new demaund of two thousand men to which if we would assent you would speedily vndertake what wee had so often commanded When that was granted and your going onward promised by diuers letters wee receiued by this bearer now fresh aduertisement that all you can doe is to goe to the frontier and that you haue prouided only for twentie daies victuals In which kinde of proceeding wee must deale plainely with you that Councell that it were more proper forthem to leaue troubling themselues with instructing vs by what rules our power their obedience are limitted to bethink them if the courses haue bin only deriued from their Counsels how to answere this part of theirs to traine vs into a new expence for one end and imploy it vpon another to which we could neuer haue assented if we could haue suspected it should haue beene vndertaken before we heard it was in action And therefore we doe wonder how it can be answered seeing yourattempt is not in the capitall Traytors Countrey that you haue increased our list but it is true as we haue often saied that we are drawne on to expence by little and little and by protestations of great resolutions in generalities till they come to particular execution Of all which courses whosoeuer shall examine any of the arguments vsed for excuse shall find that your owne proceedings beget the difficulties and that no iust causes doe breed the alteration It lacke of numbers if sickenesse of the army be the causes why was not the action vndertaken when the Army was in better state if winters approch why were the summer moneths of Iuly and August lost if the spring was too soone and the summer that followed otherwise spent if the haruest that succeeded was so neglected as nothing hath beene done then surely must we conclude that none of the soure quarters of the yeere will be in season for you and that Counsell to agree of Tyrones prosecution for which all our charge was intended Further we require you to consider whether we haue not great cause to thinke that the purpose is not to end the warre when your selfe haue so often told vs that all the petty vndertakings in Lemster Mounster and Connaght are but losse of time consumption of treasure and waste of our people vntill Tyrone himselfe be first beaten on whom the rest depend Doe you not see that he maketh the warre with vs in all parts by his Ministers seconding all places where any attempts be offered who doth not see that if this course be continued the warres are like to spend vs and our Kingdome beyond all moderation as well as the report of the successe in all parts hath blemished our Honour andincouraged others to no smal proportion We know you cannot so much fayle in iudgement as not to vnderstand that all the World seeth how time is dallied though you thinke the allowance of that Counsell whose subscriptions are your Ecchoes should serue and satisfie vs. How would you haue derided any man else that should haue followed your steps How often haue you told vs that others which preceded you had no intent to end the warre How often haue you resolued vs that vntill Loughfeyle and Ballishannon were planted there could be no hope of doing seruice vpon the capitall Rebels We must therefore
Army in this estate during this time That the assurance the Irish had receiued of succours from Spaine was the onely fewell of the last blaze of this Rebellion Therefore praying that except Master Secretary had some certainety that Spaine would not at that time assist the Rebels the Army might by all meanes be strengthened which would be necessary if such assistance were sent and would make an end of the warres if none were sent And howsoeuer that befell yet for preuention of Munition and such supplies to be furnished to the Rebels from Spaine aduising that some few of the Queenes ships might lie on the West and somewhat towards the North of Ireland Adding that some little boats made both to row and to saile would barre the Ilander Scots from supplying the Rebels with any munition And that his Lordship to meet with the Earle of Ormond lately set free by Ony mac Rory who had taken him Prisoner that day tooke his iourney towards Carlogh where he hoped to sound the bottome of the conditions of his deliuery with the best course how to disintangle him and by his conference to make a shrewd guesse how the Earle stood affected in these doubtfull times His Lordship in his next Letters aduertised into England that he was not priuy nor consenting to the giuing of pledges at the Earle of Ormonds deliuery but since they were giuen in regard of her Maiesties extraordinary care for the Earles liberty he did not shew any manifest dislike thereof and now conceiued the Earle did apprehend the indignity done to him by those base traitors and therefore had such a spleene against them as hee had ioyned with him in diuers plots as well to recouer the pledges wherein the Earle protested to spare no money if they were so to be redeemed besides that he and their Fathers protested that their danger should not hinder them from doing their vttermost seruice to the Queene as also to worke his reuenge vpon the Rebels At this time Tyrone attending the garrison at Loughfoyle Odonnel starting through Connaght into Thomond and spoyling both Countries Sir Samuel Bagnoll drew out of the Newry into Monaghan where he tooke a prey and killed sixe Commanders and some sixty of the common rebels onely three of his being staine and twenty hurt The subiects of the Pale fearing belike to be complained on for the small assistance they gaue to the Queenes seruice sent ouer the Lord of Howth and Sir Patricke Barnewell to make first complaint after the Irish manner of the wrongs done them by the Army neuer acquainting the Lord Deputy and Counsell therewith And notwithstanding their former vnwillingnes to beare any charge for the Queenes seruice now they were content for these their Deputies expence in England to cesse euery plow land at three shillings From the seuenth of Iuly to the twelfth Sir Oliuer Lambert with some troopes lay encamped at the Tougher in Ophalia where he made a Causey and built a Fort and thereleft a Guard to keepe the passage alwaies open for the victualling of Phillipstowne Fort in which seruice the Earle of Southampton as a voluntary by his presence and valour much encouraged our men At this time many of the Rebels in Lemster and the Northerne borders made sute to the Lord Deputy to be receiued to mercy with offer of large summes of money to the Lord Deputy for their pardons but his Lordship refused their offer till they had first done some seruice and had drawne blood against some of their confederates Thus much his Lordship aduertised into England the sixteenth of Iuly as likewise a good seruice presently done and a great prey taken in the Fuse by Sir Richard Moryson the Gouernour of Dundalke The same twelfth of Iuly his Lordship tooke his iourney towards the borders of the North vpon hearing that Tyrone was drawne into those parts There his Lordship intended to spoyle the corne as likewise in all other parts when it should be a little riper Mac Mahowne and Patricke mac Art Moyle offered now to submit but neither could be receiued without the others head But Oconnor Roe mac Gaire for good respects of seruice was at the same time receiued to mercy His Lordship hearing that Tyrone contained himselfe in his fastnes and being requited out of England to attempt something vpon the Lemster Rebels left the Northerne borders strongly guarded against any inuasion and left order with the Counsell to hasten the generall hoasting and make ready all prouisions for a iourney into the North and leauing Dublyn the twelfth of August rode to the Nasse and so marched to the Fort of Phillipstowne in Ophaly with fiue hundred sixty foote and sixty horse besides voluntaries in his company In the way into Leax his Lordship tooke a prey of two hundred Cowes seuen hundred garrons and fiue hundred sheepe besides great store of small cattell The sixeteenth of August his Lordship burning the Countrey and spoyling the corne marched towards the passage one of the most dangerous in Ireland where Sir Oliuer Lambert with the Forces he had was to meet him Both of them fought all the way and killed diuers rebels whereof the Lord Deputy left fifteene dead in the place besides many hurt they met together at noone The seuenteenth day the army marched towards a fastnes where the rebels had stored great plenty of corne At the entry there was a Foard compassed in with woods and a bogge betweene them where the rebels let the vanguard of the horse passe but his Lordship passing with a few gentlemen and his owne seruants before the vanguard of the foote the rebels began the skirmish with him and the foote wings being slowly sent out they came close vp to him the traytor Tyrrel hauing appointed an hundred shot to wait on his Lorships person with markes to know him In this skirmish we killed thirty fiue rebels and hurt seuenty fiue on our part two onely being killed and a few slightly hurt Captaine Masterson dangerously hurt in the knee and his Lordship hauing a very good horse killed vnder him and another killed vnder Master Iohn Chidley a gentleman of his Lordships chamber But the best seruice at that time done was the killing of Owny mac Rory a bloody and bold yong man who lately had taken the Earle of Ormond prisoner and had made great stirres in Mounster He was the chiefe of the O Mores Sept. in Leax and by his death they were so discouraged that they neuer after held vp their heads Also a bold bloody rebell Callogh mac Walter was at the same time killed Besides that his Lordships staying in Leax till the twenty three of August did many other waies weaken them for during that time he fought almost euery day with them and as often did beate them Our Captaines and by their example for it was otherwise painefull the common souldiers did cut downe with their swords all the Rebels corne to the value of ten thousand pound and
vpon the Rebels promise of horse but also great store of Armes for the common people vpon hope they had giuen them of their generall reuolt and humbly praying their Lordships that in regard our greatest strength and aduantage consisted in our horses they would cause a thousand quarters of Oates to be speedily sent for Corke without which store our horses were like to starue within a short time and in case they approued the prosecution in the North to bee continued without intermission then they would bee pleased to send the like quantitie of Oates to be kept in store at Carlingford Lastly praying their Lordships to send hether a Master Gunner with sixe Canoniers The second of October his Lordship wrote this following letter to Master Secretarie SIr I doe thinke we shall finde these forces out of Spaine to be aboue foure thousand aboundantly prouided with Munition Artillery and Armes besides their owne vse to arme the Countrie people great store of treasure and of all victuals but flesh All the Chiefes that are in rebellion and all the loose sword men will presently take their parts The Lords that we haue reclaimed if we doe not defend them from Tirone must and will returne vnto him Vpon the first good countenance the Spanish army shall make I feare me many will declare themselues for them but vpon the first blow we shall receiue from the which I hope God will preserue vs I doubt there would fall out a generall reuolt The Commander of the Spanish Army is one of the greatest Souldiers the King of Spaine hath the Captaine vnder him are most ancient men their Bands some out of Italy some from the Terceraes and few Bisonioes They are specially well armed all their shot as I heard muskets they haue brought sixteene hundred saddles and Armes for horsemen of light shot whereof they make account to be prouided in Ireland and so may they be as well as in any part of Christendome and likewise to haue horses for their saddles but therein I thinke they will be deceiued There are not yet come vnto vs any other forces but such 〈◊〉 onely I found in this Prouince Vpon the arriuall of the first troopes which I looke for howerly we shall send you word of some good blowes that will passe betweene vs for I meane to dwell close by them by the grace of God to put them to it Sir the King of Spaine hath now begun to inuade her Maiesties Kingdomes if only to put Ireland in generall commotion he hath chosen the worst place if to doe that and to lay a sudden foundation for the warre of England the best if he hath beene deceiued in any expectation here the State of Spaine must now make good the errour and doubtlesse is ingaged to supplie all defects The commodity that is offered vnto her Maiesty is that shee may sooner preuent then Spaine prouide Now as her Maiesties faithfull workeman I am bold to propound in my own taske that it may please her to send presently good part of her royall Fleete and with them such prouisions for battery as we did write for and at the least so many horse and foote as by our letter we haue sued for with victuals and munitions in aboundance for them It will be fit that this Winter there be a sharpe warre made in Vlster which will keepe the Spaniard from any important succour and ruine for euer the Traitors if the warre be well followed If it be made by the seuerall Gouernours the effect will not be so great if you will haue it performed thorowly you must make one Gouernour of all Vlster and the fittest man that can bee chosen in England or Ireland is Sir Arthur Chichester If you resolue on that course from him you must continually receiue his demands onely of the three hundred horse wee did write for it were good he had sent him out of the North one hundred For foot if you send him out of England to supply the Companies at Loughfoyle and Knockefergus aboue our proportion it will be much better for Armagh and those parts shall receiue from vs. This course I hope will soone make an end of the warre in Ireland of Spaine in Ireland and perchance of Spaine for a long time with England I doubt not but you will conceiue this action to bee of no lesse importance then it is What goodly Hauens are in these parts for shipping how many fighting men of the Irish may be from hence by the King of Spaine carried for an inuasion of England the want of which two kinds hath beene his chiefe impediment hitherto you well know Beleeue Sir out of my experience here if the King of Spaine should preuaile in Ireland he may carry aboue ten thousand men from hence that ioined with his Army will be of more vse for the inuasion of England then any that can be chosen out of any part of Christen dome And now Sir that you know as I hope the worst I cannot dissemble how confident I am to beate these Spanish Dons as well as euer I did our Irish Macks and Oes and to make a perfect conclusion of the warre of Ireland as soone as if this interruption had neuer happened if wee haue Gods blessing and the Queenes and those ordinary meanes without the which none but infinite powers can worke I beseech the eternall God preserue her Maiesty and her Kingdomes and send me the happinesse to kisse her royall hands with the conscience of hauing done her the seruice I desire And so Sir I doe wish you all happinesse and will be euer From Corke the 2 of October 1601 Yours Sir most assured to doe you seruice Mountioy The same day his Lordship wrote another letter to Master Secretary as followeth SIR here are diuers worthy men very fit to haue charge who haue followed the wars here as voluntaries to their very great expence look now by my meanes to haue command vpon the comming ouer of the next Companies if you send more then serue only for supplies I haue no meanes to keep them from going thither to vse the helpe of their friends and get them Companies there but by promising them any thing that I can doe for them here for by that course I conceiue I ease you of that trouble which their importunate sutes would breede you and hold them here ready for any seruice vpon the sudden thinking it no pollicy at this time to spare any that may giue furtherance to the great worke we haue in hand If it will please you to doe me that fauour to procure that the Companies to come ouer may be appointed Captaines of my nomination I shall be able to satisfie those Gentlemens expectations who I am perswaded will be fitter for this imployment then any that can be sent from thence and they finding their aduancement here where they are to be tied to their taske will in my iudgement endeauour to deserue the best being in the
the iust reward of his foule demerits Notwithstanding we will not mislike to heare from you againe what you haue further discouered and guide our further resolution according to occasions Hereupon we haue thought good to returne this gentleman Sir Oliuer S. Iohns to you with thus much of our mind vpon your late letters and with such other matters as from our Counsell he may haue in charge to impart vnto you being one of whose good discretion and affection to our seruice we are very well perswaded to the end that vpon his arriuall by which time much will be seene of the euent of your late happy successe you may enter into some solid consideration of the forme of gouernement hereafter to be held of the proportions of our army to be continued and of all things that may be likely to settle that State in safety from forraigne attempts and in a better obedience to vs then heretofore When you haue debated and resolued what seemeth good to you there vppon all such points we can be then contented that you send backe this gentleman hether againe instructed therewith And because it will be also needfull for the furtherance of our resolutions here to haue good vnderstanding of the ciuill parts of that gouernement as well as of the martiall and that sute hath beene made vnto vs for Sir Robert Gardener our chiefe Iustice there to be licensed to come hither we shall like well that you send them both to the end that vpon their report of your conceipts there we may enter into more particular consideration of all things incident which vpon their arriuall wee shall be better able to doe Giuen vnder our Signet at our Pallace of West minster the eight day of February 1601. in the foure and fortieth yeere of our raigne The same day Sir Oliuer S. Iohns brought from the Lords in England this following letter to the Lord Deputy AFter our hearty commendations to your good Lordship we haue had in most of our late dispatches so little cause to fill our papers with any thing but with commendations of your Lordships wise proceedings and congratulations for her Maiesties happy successe vnder you as at this time if any other we intended not to mixe this acknowledgement of our extraordinary contentment for your late victory against the Spaniards with any other particular directions especially seeing the change you haue made in that Countrey by freeing the same from forraigne power howsoeuer infested still with an intestine rebellion must in all mens knowledge that are acquainted with the affaires of State haue brought so many changes as we can hardly tell what aduice or direction to offer of new vntill we may receiue from thence some further light of the present State of that Kingdome from you whose owne eye and iudgement is neerest and ablest to performe the same In which consideration seeing it hath pleased her Maiesty by her owne letters not onely to giue you notice of her royall and gracious acceptation of your so noble endeuours but to direct your Lordship also to send ouer hether Sir Robert Gardener and this gentleman Sir Oliuer S. Iohns with relation of all particulars fit for her knowledge we will in expectation hereof forbeare to enlarge our letter any further then with our best wishes to your Lordship of all perfect health and happinesse as those that will euer be found c. The same eight day Don Iean and the remaine of the Spaniards at Kinsale were all embarked ready to be gone The next morning the Lord Deputy left Corke and taking his iourney towards Dublyn arriued that night at Yoghall And because the stormy weather and contrary winds kept the Spaniards still in the Port at Kinsale his Lordship was forced to stay in that Towne some few daies from whence he wrote to Master Secretary into England vpon the twelfth of March aduertising him thereof And further giuing him notice that the other Spaniards which were at Beere-Hauen Castle-Hauen and Baltimore now were gone for Spaine That Don Iean had sent to Corke the pledges promised in the eight article of the agreement That fiue English Companies were lately arriued at Waterford And lastly praying to be excused to the rest of the Lords of her Maiesties Counsell that hee forbare to write vnto them till he came to Waterford where within few daies he hoped to meete the Earle of Ormond and some other of the Counsell and vpon conference with them to bee better able to satisfie their Lordships in some things concerning the present State of this Kingdome according to her Maiesties pleasure lately signified to him by her letters The pledges aboue mentioned were to lie for the safe returne of our ships wherein the Spaniards were embarked These pledges were principall Commanders and among them was one Captaine Moryson of whose bold seruice mention is made in the sally vpon the second of December This gentleman was inuited by the Lord Deputy to accompany him to Dublin the rest of his fellowes still remaining at Corke whether hee was to returne vnto them and they together to be shipped for Spaine vpon the safe returne of our ships In which iourney to Dublyn and during this Gentlemans aboad there I had familiar conference with him for names sake and vnderstood from him that his Family in Spaine was discended of an English Gentleman who followed the Emperour Charles the fifth in his warres and after by his bounty was seated in Spaine where at this day the chiefe of his name had good reuenues The Lord Deputy being come to Waterford did write together with the rest of the Counsell vpon the eighteenth of March this following letter to the Lords in England IT may please your Lordships The eighth hereof wee receiued by Sir Oliuer S. Iohns at Corke the dispatch which it pleased your Lordships to make by him and may not omit with all humble thankefulnesse to acknowledge the great comfort and contentment we haue taken in that it appeareth both thereby and by the relation of Sir Oliuer that her Maiesty and your Lordships haue most graciously and fauourably accepted and allowed our poore endeauours We are most carefull as you haue directed to send Sir Robert Gardener and him vnto your Lordships so soone as I the Deputy can get to Dublyn where Sir Robert Gardener now is and shall haue considered and debated with the Counsell there the businesse wherein your Lordships looke to be thorowly informed In the meane space because that will aske some time wee haue thought fit to acquaint your Lordships how things stand here since our last dispatch The Spaniards for certaine are all gone from Beere-Hauen Castle-Hauen Baltimore and that day that Sir Oliuer S. Iohns did arriue at Corke we heard that all the Spaniards at Kinsale and last of all Don Iean himselfe were shipped and in readinesse to set saile but since we heare that vntill Saturday the thirteenth hereof they could not get forth the Harbour and were
effectually followed doth require a more liberall expence for prouision of all these things then this and of all other extraordinaries sauing the charge of great Artillery whereof also in some measure though in a farre lesse then other places we haue great vse And of many perchance more forcible to present vnto your Lordships oriely these two reasons An Army is no where arrested with so many Riuers and vnpassable Marshes as here Secondly where the warre is to be made to best effect we find no meanes of victuals or any other necessary prouision but what we bring with vs. To redeeme the losse of this opportunity for plantation to so good effect as it should haue been I vndertooke with an Army no greater then a reasonable garrison to make the warre of Lemster in the depth of Winter And first I fell into the Glinnes the fastest Countrey of Ireland and till now of all the parts of Lemster onely vntouched where I first spoiled all the Countrey and made Donnell Spantgah whom before I had receiued to her Maiesties mercy to ioine with me therein and after forced Phelim Mac Feogh and all the Tooles the most pestilent infestors of the Pale to submission who haue since shewed more apparance of good subiects then euer I knew or heard of any of these Rebels After going vp and downe as farre as Athlone I fell into Fercale forced Tyrrill out of an exceeding great strength and banished him and in effect all the Oconnors out of Ophaly into the North. Returning towards the North I spoiled all the Ferny with a iourney where I was present and wherein besides many other were killed two of Euer Mac Cooleys sonnes I wasted the Fuse by Sir Richard Moryson planted a garrison aboue twenty miles from the Pale in the Brenny by Sir Oliuer Lambert and returning to Drogheda by the generall aduice of the Counsell I tooke in Turlogh mac Henry Lord of the Fuse and Euer mac Cooly Farmer of the Ferny Sir Ohy Ohanlon a Northerne Lord and many of the Macmahowns and Orellies who all besides their greatest oathes gaue vs such as were thought their best pledges for their loyalty And to loose no part of this beginning yeere 1601 hauing setled the new Submitties of Lemster and the borders of the North with as great assurance as I could I drew againe into the North before the generall hosting for that yeere could be in readinesse and cleared and assured the passage of the Moyry by cutting downe most part of the Woods and building a Fort there Then I went into Lecayle wholly possessed by Mac Gennis and tooke in all the Castles in those parts From thence I went to Armagh and there placed a garrison And albeit at this time the continuall rumours wee heard of preparations in Spaine made vs proceede somewhat more irresolutely in our maine course of plantation and making the warre in Tyrone it selfe yet we went forward with an intent to draw Sir Arthur Chichester by Loughsidney into Tyrone to plant a garrison at the Blackwater to force a passage somewhat beneath it to meet him and by building a Fort and Bridge vpon the passage to haue made Dungannon it selfe the Center whether without any great difficulty the Garrisons of Loughfoyle Armagh Knockfergus Mount Norreys and ell other of the North might at all times meet together to beate and absolutely to banish the Arch-traitor out of his owne Country and in the performing thereof to haue spoiled all the Rebels corne sauing such as should be within the command of those Garrisons whom with the countenance of the Army in the Haruest time wee resolued to enable to make large prouisions thereof for themselues and their horses And so farre had wee proceeded in this course that wee had forced Tyrone from the Blackwater where hee lay with his Army and had fortified and enreached there with great art we had cleared the passage intended to Dungannon the making of the bridge onely excepted which wee meant to supply with a floate and spoiled most part of their standing Corne. About which time the assured newes was come vnto vs of the ariuing of the Spaniards which first staying and after cleane diuerting our course we were driuen by their comming to bend our counsels to defend her Maiesties Kingdome from forraigne inuasion that before were busie to recouer it from inward rebellion and to that end to breake off our worke and to leaue the further prosecution of that businesse the places already possessed onely preserued By this continued time wherein the Army from the first was led on in action induring all seasons and more fights then I thinke euer Army did in so short time your Lordships must not wonder if to make head against the Spaniards wee drew vp weake Companies for besides deficients by sicknesse and death there were many Companies that had thirtie and fortie hurt men in them Yet vpon any vncertainty how probable soeuer I was loth to loose to her Maiestie the chiefe benefit of one whole yeeres seruice till I was fully assured of their landing and therefore first drew my selfe onely with a few horse into Mounster and neuer sent for the forces till the very last pinch of necessitie And thus haue your Lordships also the reasons how this second yeere was lost without laying the new foundation for rooting out of the Rebels though God be thanked it was wonne in defending her Kingdome from a powerfull and ambitious Inuader to his dishonour and I hope also to the more sound and sudden subuersion of the Rebels I will speake nothing of the seruice at Kinsale since to my great comfort I doe finde her Maiestie and your Lordships so well satisfied therein but so behoofefull for the publike good I conceiued it to make a cleane riddance of them out of this Countrie and as much as I might to assure in them the performance of their departure that it was necessarie to keepe the Army in those parts vntill we were quit of them And to giue them the lesse aduantage if they had purposed falsely I presently conueyed the Cannon into an Iland that doth absolutely command the Hauen of Kinsale with a sufficient guard and beginning a fortification there at that instant to maintaine it I tooke order they should haue no more victuals sold vnto them then I presumed would but serue them from day to day and for their prouision of bread in effect they spent on their owne stoare So that I could haue been able at any time to inuest them againe on as ill or worse conditions then I left them But before the wind and other prouisions serued for their departure he Winter was so farre spent that wee could not in the fittest time returne the Companies to their Garrisons nor otherwise could wee haue done it because the places were not stored with victuals nor any prouision for horse And yet those little remnants that were left to defend those places did many excellent seruiees and now
bee kept fit to receiue greater numbers if it were thought fit to send them againe at any time Adding that if the Queene would be pleased to build a little Castle in euery one of the lesser Forts it would greatly lessen her Maiesties charge in the numbers of men and yet be sufficient perpetually to bridle the Irish. The nine and twentieth of Iuly the Lord Deputie being in Monaghan receiued letters from Sir George Carew Lord President of Mounster by the hands of Sir Samuel Bagnol whom the Lord Deputie had sent into Mounster to bring from thence fifteene hundred foote which accordingly hee had performed These letters aduertised certaine expectation of the Spaniards present inuading Mounster with great forces able to keepe the field without any support from the Irish Rebels which expectation was grounded vpon the confessions of many comming out of Spaine and by diuers letters sent from thence by the Irish but especially was confirmed by the arriuall of a Spanish ship at Ardea bringing a good proportion of munition to Oswillyuan Beare Captaine Tyrrell and other Rebels in Mounster together with a good summe of money to be distributed among them for their incouragement to hold out in rebellion till the Spanish succours should arriue And the Lord President signified his feare of a generall defection vpon the Spaniards first arriuall which hee gathered from the confidence of all the Rebels in that Prouince who hauing before sought for mercy in all humblenesse and with promise to merit it by seruice now since the Spanish ship arriued were growne proud calling the King of Spaine their King and their ceasing from rebellion to be the betraying of their King and of the Catholike cause yea sell nothing from this insolency though they had bin some times beaten by him many of their chiefe men killed and had lost the strong Castle of Dunboy And the twentieth of Iuly the Lord President aduertised new intelligences of Spanish forces in great numbers lying ready at the Groyne either to bee sent for Ireland or the Low Countries whereof 2000 being horse there was no probabilitie that they should bee sent by sea for the Low Countries since they might more conueniently bee raised in these parts Wherefore hee resolutely beleeuing they were intended for Ireland desired 〈◊〉 for speede of intelligences a running Post might againe be established betwene Corke and Dublin The Lord Deputie by this time had planted a Garrison in Monaghan wherein hee left for the present Sir Christopher S. Laurence with his 25 horse and 150 foote and vnder him Captaine Esmond with his foote one hundred fifty This Garrison lay fitly to secure the Pale from Northerne incursions and to prosecute those Rebels which were like to stand out longest This done his Lordship tooke burned and spoiled all the Ilands in those parts of greatest strength placing wards in some of them And finding Mac Mahown chiefe of Monaghan to stand vpod proud termes though otherwise making sute to bee receiued to mercy his Lordship spoiled and ransacked all that Countrie and by example thereof brought many Chiefes of adioyning Countries to submit to mercy with as good shew of dutie and obedience as could bee desired and more strict othes and pledges then had formerly been required So as now from the Bann to the Dartcy including all Tyrone and from thence to Dublin the whole Country was cleared and the chiefe Lords more assured then they were euer before His Lordship placed Connor Roe Mac Guyre to whom her Maiesty had lately giuen the Chiefery of Fermannagh in the principall house of Mac Mahown Chiefe of Monaghan lying within two miles of Fermannagh so as he might from thence easily plant and settle himselfe in his owne Country and so bee able to doe her Maiesty many good seruices in those parts This done his Lordship returned to the Newry meaning there for a short time to refresh his wearied forces The 29 of Iuly his Lordship and the Counsell with him made to the Lords in England a relation of the past seruices which for breuity I omit and wrote further as followeth Vpon such bruites as we heare of a new inuasion out of Spaine the L. President in a manner assuring vs that they will in that Prouince inuade presently with a strong Army of 15000 foot and 2000 horse we are much distracted what next to do for if we should draw that way to prouide to entertaine them wee should loose the aduantage of this prosecution and spend another yeere vnprofitably which wee grieue to thinke vpon and yet perhaps misse of their place of landing If we proceede as we yet intend to draw this warre to a speedy end which is that which we acknowledge we do more effect we shall bee the lesse able to make that defensiue stoppe to their inuasion that wee might if we attended that businesse onely We do therefore most humbly and earnestly desire to be directed from your Lordships who in likelihood best know the Spaniards intentions which of these courses we should most apply our selues vnto otherwise we are resolued whatsoeuer befall to prosecute the warre Northward with all earnestnesse out of the desire wee haue to draw the warre to an end and ease her Maiestie of that excessiue charge which to our exceeding griefe we obserue her to be at which we doubt not to effect to her great contentment and ease her Maiestie speedily of a great part of her charge if we be not interrupted by the Spaniard for besides the good hold we haue gotten of those that haue a ready submitted themselues which by all arguments of sound and sincere meaning in them we tooke to be better and more assured then any that was taken heretofore since her Maiestie and her Ancesters enioyed this Kingdome especially with the holds that we haue planted among them wee haue set downe such a plot for the prosecution of the rest vpon all hands at one instant so soone as wee take the field next which is agreed vpon the tenth of the next moneth till which time wee haue thought fit to refresh this Army ouertoiled wearied out with continuall working vpon the Forts that we haue made and with exceeding great marches which we were driuen to for lacke of meanes to carrie victuals with vs for a longer time as we are very confident we shall in short time ruine or subdue all these rebels For we haue left no man in all the North that is able to make any very great resistance or that hath not made meanes to bee receiued to mercy O Rourke onely excepted who hitherto hath been furthest off from feeling the furie of our prosecution Tyrone is alreadie beaten out of his Countrie and liues in a part of O Canes a place of incredible fastnesse where though it be impossible to doe him any great hurt so long as hee shall bee able to keepe any force about him the wales to him being vnaccessible with an Army yet by lying about him as we
greater Forces then euer yet were kept in this Kingdome And although it hath beene seldome heard that any Army hath beene carried on with so continuall action and enduring without any intermission of Winter breathings and that the difficulties at this time to keepe any Forces in the place where we must make the warre but especially our Horse are almost beyond any hope to preuent yet with the fauour of God and her Maiesties fortune I doe determine my selfe to draw into the field as soone as I haue receiued her Maiesties commandements by the Commissioners whom it hath pleased her to fond ouer and in the meane time I hope by my owne presence or directions to set euery party on worke that doth adioyne or may bee drawne against any force that now doth remaine in rebellion In which iourney the successe must bee in the hands of God but I will confidently promise to omit nothing that is possible by vs to bee done to giue the last blow vnto the Rebe lion But as all paine and anguish impatient of the present doth vse change for a remedie so will it bee impossible for vs to settle the mindes of this people vnto a peace or reduce them vnto order while they feele the smart of these sensible grietes and apparant feares which I haue remembred to your Lordships without some hope of redresse or securitie Therefore I will presume how vnworthy soeuer I am since it concernes the Prouince her Maiestie hath giuen me with all humblenesse to lay before your graue iudgements some few things which I thinke necessarie to bee considered of And first whereas the alteration of the coine and taking away of the exchange in such measure as it was first promised hath bred a generall grieuance vnto men of all qualities and so many incommodities to all sorts that it is beyond the iudgement of any that I can heare to preuent a confusion in this estate by the conunuance thereof that at the least it would please your Lordships to put this people in some certaine hope that vpon the ende of the warre this new standard shall bee abolished or eased and that in the meane time the Armie may bee fauourably delt with in the Exchange since by the last Proclamation your Lordships sent ouer they doe conceiue their case will bee more hard then any others for if they haue allowed them nothing but indefinitely as much as they shall meerely gaint out of their intertainements that will proue nothing to the greater part For the onely possibility to make them to liue vpon their intertainement will bee to allow them exchange for the greatest part thereof since now they doe not onely pay excessiue prices for all things but can hardly get any thing for this money and although wee haue presumed to alter in shew though not effect the Proclamation in that point by retaining a power in our selues to proportion their allowance for exchange yet was it with a minde to conforme our proceedings therein according to your Lordships next directions and therefore doe humbly desire to know your pleasures therein For our opinions of the last proiect it pleased your Lordships to send vs I doe humbly leaue it to our generall letters onely as from my selfe I made ouerture to the Counsell of the other you sent directed onely to my selfe and because I found them generally to concurre that it would proue as dangerous as the first I did not thinke it fit any otherwise to declare your Lordships pleasure therein And whereas it pleased your Lordships in your last letters to command vs to deale moderately in the great matter of Religion I had before the receit of your Lordships letters presumed to aduise such as delt in it for a time to hold a more restrained hand therein and we were both thinking ourselues what course to take in the reuocation of what was already done with least incouragement to them and others since the feare that this course begun in Dublin would fal vpon the rest was apprehended ouer all the Kingdom so that I think your Lordships direction was to great purpose the other course might haue ouerthrowne the meanes to our owne end of reformation of religion Not that I thinke too great precisenesse can bee vsed in the reforming of our selues the abuses of our owne Clergie Church-liuings or discipline nor that the truth of the Gospell can with too great vehemency or industrie bee set forward in all places and by all ordinary meanes most proper vnto it selfe that was first set forth and spread in meekenesse nor that I thinke any corporall prosecution or punishment can be too seuere for such as shall bee found seditious instruments of forraigne or inward practises nor that I thinke it fit that any principall Magistrates should bee chosen without taking the Oath of Obedience nor tollerated in absenting themselues from publike Diuine Seruice but that wee may bee aduised how wee doe punish in their bodies or goods any such onely for Religion as doe professe to bee faithfull subiects to her Maiestie and against whom the contrarie can not be proued And since if the Irish were vtterly rooted out there was much lesse likelihood that this Countrey could be thereby in any time planted by the English since they are so farre from inhabiting well any part of that they haue already and that more then is likely to be inhabited may be easily chosen out and reserued in such places by the Sea-side or vpon great Riuers as may be planted to great purpose for a future absolute reducement of this Countrey I thinke it would asmuch auaile the speedy setling of this Countrey as any thing that it would please her Maiesty to deale liberally with the Irish Lords of Countries or such as now are of great reputation among them in the distribution of such lands as they haue formerly possessed or the State here can make little vse of for her Maiesty If they continue as they ought to doe and yeeld the Queene as much commodity as she may otherwise expect shee hath made a good purchase of such subiects for such land If any of them hereafter be disobedient to her lawes or breake forth in rebellion shee may when they shall be more diuided ruine them more easily for example vnto others and if it be thought fit may plant English or other Irish in their Countries For although there euer haue beene and hereafter may be small eruptions in some places which at the first may easily be suppressed yet the suffering them to grow to that generall head and combination did questionlesse proceed from great errour in the iudgement here and may be easily as I thinke preuented hereafter And further it may please her Maiesty to ground her resolution for the time and numbers of the next abatement of the lyst of her Army somewhat vpon our poore aduice from hence and to beleeue that wee will not so farre corrupt our iudgements with any priuate respect as
speciall trust on your fidelity within the walles of that City but to suffer it by his Maiesties Commissioners of that Prouince to bee issued to the Forts or where they shall thinke meet for the present seruice I shall be glad to finde that you conforme your selues to due obedience in all these and other duties of good subiects if otherwise you obstinately persist in the contrary I must needs hold you for enemies to the King and the Peace of these his Realmes and as such thinke you fit to be prosecuted by the reuenging sword of these and other his Maiesties Forces From the Campe at Gracedea neere Waterford the fourth of May 1603. The fifth of May his Lordship was aduertised that the Gouernour of Loughfoyle vpon Sir Neale Garnes late insolencies and disloyall practises had by force taken from him his Cowes Horses and all his substance and that he himselfe had giuen pledges to come to his Lordship The disloyalties proued against him were these That he obstinately carried himselfe in all things concerning the seruice That he forbad his people to yeeld any reliefe to the English Garrisons That he restrained his men from building or plowing that they might assist him to doe any mischiefe That be threatned to set fier on the Liffer That he refused to admit any Shiriffe in his Countrey That he had long beene vpon a word with the Rebels That he swore he would goe into Rebellion rather then any English man should inioy a foot of Church land in his Countrey which notwithstanding was reserued in his Pattent That he had created himself O Donnel that he had murthered an honest subiect who would not follow him in those courses with many like insolencies And hereby the Lord Deputy and State were set at libertie for the promise of Tirconnell made vnto him So as his Lordship had now good occasion to giue Rowry O Donnell contentment To which end some good portions of land being assigned to Sir Neale Garue his L P procured the rest of the late O Donnells Countrey to be giuen his brother Rowry whom afterwards in England he procured to be created Earle of Tyrconnel thereby extinguishing the name of O Donnell The Citizens of Waterford at first refused to receiue any Forces into the Towne but onely his Lordship and his retinue yet the chiefe of them attended his Lordship in the Campe and for their proceedings in the points of Religion his Lordship requiring them to bring vnto him one Doctor White a Iesuite the chiefe seducer of them by seditious Sermons they were ready vpon safe conduct or protection to bring him to his Lordships presence which being granted them by word of mouth the said Doctor White accompanied by a young Dominican Frier came into the Campe but when they foolishly carried a Crucifix openly shewing the same the soldiers were hardly kept from offering them violence and when they put vp the Crucifix in their pockets yet could hardly indure the sight of their habits which each wore according to his order Doctor White wearing a blacke gowne and cornerd cap and the Frier wearing a white wollen frock White being come into his Lordships Tent was bold to maintaine erroneous and dangerous positions for maintenance of that which the Citizens had done in the reforming of Religion without publike authority all which his Lordship did as no Lay man I thinke could better doe most learnedly confute And when White cited a place in Saint Austin for his proofe his Lordship hauing the booke in his Tent shewed all the company that hee had falsely cited that Father for howsoeuer his very words were found there yet they were set downe by way of an assertion which Saint Austin confuted in the discourse following At this surprisall White was somewhat out of countenance and the Citizens ashamed But in conclusion when those of the Towne alleaged King Iohn his Charter for priuiledge why they should not receiue the Kings forces into the Towne his Lordship replied that no King could giue that priuiledge to his subiects whereby his Successours should bee preiudiced in the due obedience they were to expect from them and in a word told them that if they did not presently open their Ports to him and the forces with him he would cut King Iohns Charter in pieces with King Iames his sword and if he entered the Towne by force would ruine it and strew salt vpon the ruines Whereupon they better considering of the businesse receiued his Lordship and the forces into the Towne and the souldiers were so well disciplined that howsoeuer they were not a little grieued by this yeelding to haue the hope of rich pillage taken from them yet no wrong worth the speaking of was done to any one in the Towne His Lordship here suppressed all publike exercise of Romish Religion and restored the Churches to the English Ministers and tooke from the chiefe Citizens an oath of Alleageance to his Maiesty with an abiuration of all dependancy on any forraigne Potentate hauing held the like course of reformation in his passage hither through Kilkenny the Citizens wherof had in like sort offended but his Lordship forbare any way to censure their past sedition leauing them to the Kings mercy for Charter life and goods if thereby they had indangered them Onely his Lordship left one thou sand men in Garrison at Waterford and made choise of a place of aduantage where they should lye till such time as a Fort might there be built to command the Towne and bridle it from running into like insolencies hereafter And because the North being now quieted there was no further vse of any Garrison in Lecayle his Lordship appointed Sir Richard Morryson formerly Gouernour of Lecayle to command this Garrison left at Waterford and to gouerne the County of Wexford Certaine heads whereupon some Waterford men were examined a part one from the the other and in a carelesse manner yet so as the answeres were written out of sight 1. What preparations were deuised to rescue Waterford if the Army had laied siege thereunto 2. Who were the instruments that were appointed and were assembling them 3. Who were their leaders both in Towne and Countrie and when and where they should meete 4. Whether any thing were published in writing and set vpon the Church doores and other places to seduce the people and what the effect thereof was or by whom it was set vp or whether it was set vp in Clomell onely or in more places 5. Whether any of them did know Sir Mahowne O Dullany Priest to come to Clomell the fifth of this moneth reporting that Sir Donnell O Carroll had fifteene hundred men ready to the rescue of Waterford 6. Whether any of them knew Humfery Arthur of Lymrick or any other messengers from thence to come to Clomell to report that fiue thousand were in readinesse to the rescue of Waterford also or whether he be still at Clomell yea or no. 7. Whether they knew which
liue in the sight of their Countrey-men and may vse their accustomed diet and a little change of aire doth but little hurt which they may preuent or mitigate by the aduice of Physicians Neither are childrens vnripe yeeres fit for this course howsoeuer they are more to be excused who send them with discreet Tutors to guide them with whose eyes and iudgements they may see and obserue Thus the Romans as Snetonius writes permitted the visiting of forraigne Countries to the Sonnes of Senators vnder the gouernement of one who had borne Office in the City for the charge of such children is not to be credited to all of full age without choyce Children like Parrats soone learne forraigne languages and sooner forget the same yea and their mothers tongue also A familiar friend of mine lately sent his sonne to Paris who after two yeeres returning home refused to aske his father blessing after the manner of England saying Cen'est pas le mode de France It is not the French fashion Thus whilest like Apes they imitate strange fashions they forget their owne which is iust as if a man should seeke his perdition to gaine a cloake for ornament Likewise sickly men are vnfit for this course of life who in regard of their weak health want the meanes to make benefit thereof Lastly they shall do well to keep them selnes at home who haue a scrupulous conscience and thinke themselues so wise as they will not follow the aduice of experienced men But as in all actions they are happy that hold the meane so middle age is most fit to visit forraigne parts and to make vse thereof hauing first laid a good foundation of Arts and Sciences in generall and specially those which they meane to professe and being of soripe discretion as they can distinguish betweene good and euill And since we must not only respect their ages but most of all their dispositions I will adde that it must be diligently obserued in each man whether he naturally affect this course or no for it is most certaine that the nature of man cannot with good successe beforced to any course it liketh not according to the old saying of the Poet Naturam expellas furc a licet vsque recurrit Though Nature be repelled by force Yet still it turnes to haue his course I know that second causes can doe nothing without the first and it is no lesse true that the first doth in naturall things worke by the second which makes me of opinion that the position of the Starres in each mans natiuity is not altogether vaine This granted it is not iust that the Common-wealth Parents or Friends should wrest any mans nature to courses contrary thereunto not leauing each man liberty to shew and follow his owne inclination To conclude I thinke with Plato that before any man take this course he must obtaine leaue of the Magistrate as the custome is in England where none but Merchants may without leaue goe out of the Iland to the end that suspected persons may bee kept at home left being not well instructed in the true religion they should bee seduced by Papists And I take Parents consent for granted without which the sacred power giuen them by God should wickedly be violated My purpose was thus slightly to haue passed ouer the worthy prayses due to the knowledge of forraigne States wherewith I began lest with the vaiue Rhetoritian I should seeme to praise Hercules whom no man dispraised But when I consider that so many heads so many wits and remember that my selfe haue sometimes heard though a man shall be last to heare the detractions of his owne courses some pleasantly others wittily and some malitiously to scoffe at this kind of industry to gaine knowledge it will not be amisse so farre to take in hand againe the taske I had almost finished as according to the end of my discourse I may incourage the indifferent Reader by fully answering their idle obiections In the first front are the pleasant men who remember the Italians stale Prouerb Chi Asino va a Roma Asino se ne torna If an Asse at Rome doe soiourne An Asse he shall from thence returne The very Asses straying into barren pastures do after learne more willingly to stay at home with plentifull feeding And very dull spirited men at whom this bitter Prouerb allegorically aimeth howsoeuer by this industry they doe not suddenly become catces yet I will be bold to say they are by nothing more or with greater ease instructed according to their capacities so they trauel not alone as Socrates Laconically said For if by the way they find good companions they must needes in some measure be partners of their wits and obseruations Neither are the wise obseruers of humane Pilgrimage ignorant that graue Vniuersity men and as they say sharpe sighted in the Schooles are often reputed idiots in the practice of worldly affaires as on the contrary blockish men and to speake with the Italians very Asses by continuall practice in graue imployments gaine the wisdome of them whose affaires they manage and the more they seeke to know the World the more they conuerse with those who know more then themselues so much are they more inflamed with sweet emulation such as 〈◊〉 sleepe from Themistocles reading the Triumphs of Miltiades Secondly the wittie detracters obiect that Aglaus Psophidius was iudged wise by the Oracle of Apollo because he neuer went out of the Grange wherein he was born according to that of the Poet Claudian Foelix qui patrijs aeuum transegit in aruis Ipsa Domus puerum quem videt ipsa senem Happy in natiue soyle his life who spends Whom one house birth one house a gray head lends But what if passengers should come to a stately Pallace of a great King were hee more happy who is led onely into the kitchin and there hath a fat messe of brewis presented him or rather hee who not onely dines at the Kings Table but also with honour is conducted through all the Courts and Chambers to behold the stately building pretious furniture vessels of gold and heapes of treasure and Iewells Now such and no other is the Theater of this world in which the Almightie Maker hath manifested his vnspeakable glory He that sayles in the deepe sees the wonders of God and no lesse by land are these wonders daily presented to the eyes of the beholders and since the admirablevariety thereof represents to vs the incomprehensible Maiestie of God no doubt we are the more happy the more fully we contemplate the same Thou wilt say he hath liued well who hath spent his time retyred from the world Benè qui latuit benè vixit Who knowne is least hath liued best This may be true in women and thus among many Roman Gentlemen when one praised Fuluia another Claudia a third with good iudgement preferred a Senators vnknowne wife to both these and many other seuerally commended because she was no
dispensation on their side Therefore let the Papists feare to giue their followers leaue to heare vs in our Schooles or Churches lest they be chained with the force of truth And let vs securely permit our men to passe into the heart of Italy so they be first of ripe yeeres and well instructed Vpon my word they run no other danger then the escaping the snares of the Inquisition of which discretion I shall speake at large in the foure and twentieth Precept of Dissimulation in the next Chapter If any man obiect that some of our young Schollers haue passed into their Seminaries beyond the Seas let him consider that they were not seduced abroad but first infected at home in their parents houses and our Vniuersities which mischiefe Parents and Magistrates ought to preuent by keeping the suspected at home for the rest there is no danger But behold when I thought to haue finished my taske carpers consumed with enuie who barke at trauellers as dogs at the Moone and thinking to gaine reputation by other mens disgrace they are not ashamed to say that vagabond Caine was the first Traueller Old Writers I confesse sometimes vse the word of Perigrination for banishment but God be praised here is no question made of banished or cursed men driuen out from the sight of God They which spend the greater part of their yeeres in forraigne places as it were in voluntary banishment may more instly bee compared to Caine and are not vnlike to rude Stage players who to the offence of the beholders spend more time in putting on their apparrell then in acting their Comedy for life is compared to a stage and our Parents and Kins-men expecting our proofe to the beholders Therefore it is fit to restraine this course within due limits to which the Romans as Suetonius writes prescribed perhaps too strictly three yeeres In the last place they that detract from Trauellers to the end they may choke vs with our owne disdaine if not with arguments send out their spyes in their last skirmish to cast this Dart at vs. After so many dangers and troubles how many of you after your returne are preferred in the Common-wealth To what purpose doe you tire your selues in attaining so many vertues Is it to exercise them leaning on a plowmans or shepheards staffe I should enter a most spacious field of common griefe if I should search the causes why in our age great part of the Counsellours of States and Peeres of Realmes rather desire to haue dull and slothfull companions then those that are wise and ambitious and so in like sort rather base and expert ready seruants then those thot are free and learned Knowledge puffeth vp and I remember of late a learned Physician who being sent for by a great Lord and he being offended at his long stay freely and boldly answered that knowledge could not dance attendance Hence is our calamity to omit the more curious search of this euill whose first encounter astonisheth me though I am not ignorant of the cause but let him that cast this Dart tell me whether this ill be uot common to all men of vertue and if it be so he must at least confesse with the Poet Solamen miser is socios habuisse doloris Partners in griefe doe solace giue And let all rare men in any kind of vertue when they are despised or neglected comfort themselues with this Phylosophicall precept of Aristotle that vertue is desired for it selfe not for any thing else So I say the fruit of trauell is trauell it selfe Hauing thus retorted our enemies weapons vpon their owne breasts because the common sort is more moued with examples then arguments it remaines that in the last place I should adorne the triumph of this vertuous industry with some few and speciall examples Many have beene found who haue passed into remote parts of the World onely to gaine health farre greater is the number of them who as the Poet saith Pauperiem fugiunt vltra Garamant as Indos Who further runne to shunne base pouerty Then Garamants and Indians doely And greatest is the number of them who following the standard of ambition haue pierced to the very gates of hell with sound of Drummes and Trumpets To conclude as diligent Merchants gather precious wares into one storehouse so Phylophers haue from the first ages of the World passed by flockes into forraigne parts to gaine knowledge as the Egyptians into Chaldea the Greekes into Egypt and the Romans into Greece Pythagorus walked sarre and neere not onely to learne but also in diuers places to get Disciples whom he might teach for the Poet saith well Scire tuum nihil est nisi te scire hoc sciat alter To know auaileth thee no whit If no man know thou knowest it To be briefe if wee will credit old monuments which I confesse to suspect hee came in person and sowed the precepts of his Phylosophy euen among the Britaines deuided from all the World Plato hath written some-what too seuerely against Trauellers perhaps like Alexander the Great who was angry with his Master Aristotle because hee had published the 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 which hee had read vnto him thereby leauing him nothing wherein he might excell others so Plato hauing gotten the name of Diuine by his very trauels would forbid or limit the same to others that he might shine among the Phylosophers Velut inter stellas Luna minores As the bright Moone among the lesser starres It is most certaine that hee was not onely industrious but euen curious in this course so as he sayled into Sicily the entrance of which Iland was vpon paine of death forbidden to strangers onely that he might see the burning of the Mountaine AEtna Apelles by drawing of a most subtile lyne at Rhodes was made knowne to Protogenes Homer being blind yet ceased not to trauell In our Age they which are renowned at home for any Art are not content therewith except they may passe into forraigne Courts to make knowne their skill The most ancient Lawgiuers got the experience by which they had rule in their Cities not by secure study at home but by aduenturous trauels abroad as the Poet saith Ingenium mala saepe mouent Aduersities doe often whet our wits Moyses Orpheus Draco Solon Mines Rhadamanthus Licurgus and almost all the Consuls of Rome themselues had beene in forraigne parts and granted ample priuiledges to strangers Among Physicians we read that Esculapius and Hypocrates trauelled and that Galene was at Smyrna Corinth Alexandria in Palestine at Lemnos Ciprus and at Rome and Auicenna boasteth that he had passed through the whole World I know that many in our Vniuersities become learned Physicians but no doubt they would haue beene more learned if they had passed into forraigne parts One Land yeeldeth not all things A man shall hardly learne at home the diuers natures of hearbes and other things or the diuers dispositions of one and the same body according to
there can hardly be giuen a more certain signe of loue or contempt then thr frequent rare or no writing or especially answering of Letters whereof the Italians haue a Prouerbe Chiscriue a chi non responde O egli èmatto o egli ha di bisogno Who writes to him that answers not againe He is a foole or neede doth him constraine 11 When he wil obserue the scituation of any City let him if he may without ielousie of the Inhabitants first climbe one of the highest steeples where hauing taken the generall scituation of the City he shall better remember in order the particular things to be seene in the City To which end let him carry about him a Dyall which may shew him the North South East and West which knowne he shall lesse erre in the description of the City and this he may obserue publikely onely with his eyes for auoiding of ielousie and after being retired into his Inne may draw it in paper if he thinke good And lest for the want of a guide to shew the markeable things in each City he should omit any thing worth sight let him confidently visit some chiefe Doctor or man of principall account especially in Germany where they are most affable For if he shall say that hee comes to see them as the liuing monuments of that City I will be bold to promise that they will giue him a guide to shew him any thing worth sight and to instruct him in such things as are fit for him to know For as Weomen easily beleeue such as tell them that they are faire though indeed they bee deformed so men of best quality will easily beleeue that their name is knowne among strangers and they take these visitations for honours done vnto them yea many especially in some places are vitiously proud that their neighbours should see strangers thus visit them 12 Many desire to haue their Countreymen and friends to bee their companions in these their iourneys And it is well said Comes saeundus in via pro vehiculo A pleasant consort by the way Is like a Coach that glides away But why should he not rather desire consorts of the same Nation of whom he may learne the language and all other things worthy to be obserued My selfe could neuer see any profitably spend their time abroade who flocked together with their owne Countreymen neither doe I attribute the little proficiency of the Germans and their giuing themselues to drinke euen amongst the sober Italians to any thing more then to their liuing together in forraigne parts For an Italian conuersing abroad with Italians shall neuer learne bashfull chastity How shall any man cast off a vice proper to his Nation it he doe not disuse it by little and little which he shall hardly doe among his Countrey-men inclined thereunto Neither is there danger of learning forraigne vices by leauing to conuerse with his Countrey men so hee propound to himselfe the foresaid end to learne vertues and cast off vices and if he bend himselfe wholly to attaine that end Moreouer in places of danger for difference of Religion or proclaimed warre whosoeuer hath his Countrey-man or friend for his companion doth much increase his danger aswell for the confession of his companion if they chance to be apprehended as for other accidents since he shall be accomptable and drawne into danger aswell by his companions words or deeds as by his owne And surely there happening many dangers and crosses by the way many are of such intemperate affections as they not onely diminish the comfort they should haue from this consort but euen as Dogs hurt by a stone bite him that is next not him that cast the stone so they may perhaps out of these crosses grow to bitternes of words betweene themselues yea sometimes filthily end their old friendship with new iniuries if not in single combates Besides if this deare friend and consort should happen to dye by the way and if other ill accidents should increase this euill whereof many may bee imagined as namely if by dying among enemies or Pagans hee cannot haue so much as the honour of a graue surely I speake by experience nothing can bee added to this calamity This griefe threatens sicknesse vnto thee and to how many ills that State is subiect in forraigne parts I shall shew in the Precept of preseruing health And this euent will take from thee all the pleasure of remembring thy dangers past after thou returnest home yea will make that bitter vnto thee which vseth to bee most comfortable to others Therefore I commend the English who withdraw themselues from consorting with their Countri-men abroad not shunning them vnnaturally out of hate but onely lodging in diuers houses and onely spending some howers of the weeke in their company to nourish acquaintance that they may bestow the rest of the time among those of the same Country wherein they liue and so better their language and learne the state of the Countrie For my part if I were to suffer ill I had rather be alone then haue a friend partner with me howsoeuer the Poet saith Solamen miseris soicos habuisse doloris The miserable man doth grieue the lesse If he haue partners in his sad distresse Which is to bee vnderstood of enemies or vnknowne partners for I cannot thinke that my torment could bee asswaged by the like miserie of my friend Others obiect that it is the vnspeakeable comfort of marriage that man and wife like well paired Heyfers beare all burthens together Surely if other kinds of ill could bee diuided into equall parts as burthens may I might bee of their opinion but many kindes of ill are like the soule which is all in the whole body and all in euery part thereof neither is the torment of the soule eased by the bodies suffering with it Therefore if I were to suffer pouerty banishment or torment I had rather bee a single man then married since the compassion of my wifes and childrens suffering with me would infinitely increase my misery These things being granted I confesse it followes for of contraries the consequence is contrary that the Traueller is to impart his good successes to his friends whereof Cicero in the dreame of Scipio so disputes as if a man seeing all the pleasures of Paradice could take no delight therein if he were alone and had no man with whom he might communicate them But in conclusion since Trauellers meet with more dangers then pleasures it is most fit for them to take such consorts abroad as the way yeelds and to deferre the imparting of their good successes to their friends till their happy returne home at which time as their absence hath sharpened their friends desire to see them so the discourse of these pleasant accidents may sweeten their conuersation 13 In stead of a companion let the Traueller haue alwayes with him some good Booke in his pocket as wee reade that Alexander the Great laied Homer
hired for sixe or seuen batzen by the day but the trauellers expence is doubled by paying as much for the dayes in which the Horse returnes empty Besides that hee must hire a Foote-man to bring backe his Horse and must also beare his charges by the way which greatly increaseth his expence in these Countries yeelding wine the Foote-men being as good or better duakers then the Horse-men In vpper Germany a Horse-man shall pay daily about thirty Creitzers for Oates and about sixe for Hey In lower Germany about 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 shillings for Oates and almost the foresaid value for Hey This I write more particularly because he that trauels for Italy cannot take a more frugall course then to buy a Horse in Germany which he may sell for gaine in 〈◊〉 especially if hee sell him by the way being within few daies of his iourneys end whence he may passe by hired Coach or Horse to Padoua For it he bring his Horse thither those that are to buy him are such crafty knaues and will so conspire together against him as he shall be forced to sell his Horse vnder hand being made weary with the great charge of his meate but this frugalty hath some difficulties if the passenger haue no skill in the tongue in which case hee must hire an Interpreter and if he haue not Horse-men to accompany him because they passe alloy Coaches yet if this Horse-man will follow the Coach hee may with a small gift induce the Coach-man to teach him the meanes to prouide for his Horse but this 〈◊〉 is taken away when he once comes as high as Nurnberg to which place it is more easie though deerer to passe by Coach It is a matter of small moment yet not vnfit to bee obserued that the 〈◊〉 Coach men of Germany haue this custome that the Coaches comming downe from the vpper parts giue the way to those that come vp All Men speake strange things of the Alpes and such as will hardly be beleeued by those that haue not seene them The way from Vienna to Padoua is plaine yet lying betweene high Mountaines and fetching many compasses so as it is sit for Horse-men but I passed that way in the company of a Coach which went slowly in the slony wayes and was hardly by force of mens shoulders kept from failing The way from Augsburg to Padoua is like this and of both thoseiourneys I haue spoken at large in the first Part. My selfe weary of expecting companions and violently carried with the desire to returne into my Countrey did all a one without any one in my company which I thinke few or none euer did passe ouer the Alpes from Bergame to Chur saue that sometimes I hired a Foote-man to runne by my Horse and to guide mee for a mile or two In this iourney through the Grisones Countrey I sometimes not without horror ascended very steepe passages of Mountaines lying with my face on my Horses necke whose bridle I left free to him holding my selfe with one hand on his maine and the other on the saddle Woe to me if any Mares had then passed that way at the sight whereof my Horse vsed to be so surious as many times at straight passages and steepe fals of the Mountaines into low vallies I was forced to light from him and on foote to holde his bridle and yet sometimes hee was so fierce as he plunged out of the way vp to the saddle skirts in snow so as I could hardly recouer him The passages ouer the Alpes towards Geneua and Saucy especially the Mountaines called Farca and Gothardo are most dangerous of all others The fittest times to passe the Alpes are the Winter moneths when no snow is newly fallen and the old snow is hard congealed or else the moneths of sune Iuly and August when the snow neere the high wayes is altogether melted For the middle moneths are very vnfit either by falling of new snow or by melting of the old neither can any man passe before the Officers appointed to haue care of the way haue opened the same My selfe passing ouer the more easie Alpes in the moneth of Iune did often heare Mountaines of melted snow fall into neere Vallies with as violent rushing as if whole Cities had fallen by an Earth-quake Ouer the Alpes towards Geneua and Sauoy passengers are sometimes carried vpon sledges sometimes with gloues and shooes full of nailes they creepe ouer them on hands and feete and in both these kindes their Guides euer warne them to turne their eyes from beholding the steepe fals of the Mountaines into most deepe Vallies For sometimes it happens that in a turning or winding way the sledge whereon the passenger sits is cast out of the way and hangs downe into a most deepe valley with the passengers head downewards and his heeles vpward Woe be to him then if hee let his hold goe or the harnesse tying the sledge to the Horse should breake yea very Mules and Asses going most slowly and so most firmely yet sometimes fall into deepe valleys and so perish in the snow My selfe in my iourney from Padona to Augsburg being a lesse difficult passage did see an Horse boggling at a casuall noise tumble halfe a mile into a valley with his heauy loade vpon his backe yet haue no harme the snow being so congealed as it bore him vp so as his Master by a large circuite brought him safe againe vp to the rest of his Horses on the Moutaines top Bohemia is all plaine but often rising into low and fruitfull hils so as there as in Germany they iourney most in Coaches A passenger in this Kingdome shall pay some fiue Bohemian Grosh or vpon the Confines towards Nurnberg some eightteene or twenty creitzers for each meales meate yet at Prage in most Innes the Bohemians themselues vse to diet by the meale but vpon account the Hosts hauing little or nothing for diet in the House to sell but buying most things without dores for the Guests In the Low-Countries Trauellers passe most in long narrow Country Waggons the sides thereof being like Rackes for Horses and acrosse ouer them short and somewhat narrow boards being fastened for Passengers to sit vpon two in a ranke so as they hold some eight or tenne passengers And they haue goodly Mares to draw these Waggons vsing their Horses for the troops in their Army or exporting them as sometimes their Mares also to sell in forraigne parts I did neuer see the meanes of passage so ready in any place as these Waggons here at all times are before the doore of the Waggoners Inne nor consorts so readily found to all places whereof the numbers are infinite passing both by Waggon and Boate Neither did I euer see Trauellers passe at so easie rates I meane for their passages not for the Innes so they haue not heauy luggage For in that case the Waggons being left and taken at the gates of the Citie as I thinke not to weare the bricke
Damaske Prunes and some such comfortable things For wee pitched our Tents neere Villages or Cities from whence wee bought Egges Hennes and Ryce as wee needed them and sometimes had opportunity to supply that which wee had consumed of those prouisions which wee carried with vs. One Cammell will beare a passenger and good store of necessary prouisions with him but the pace thereof is very harde and shaketh the body of the Ryder the hinder parts of the Cammell being higher then the fore parts The Horses either goe a foote pace or gallop but are not taught the paces of ambling or trotting yet in regard that in these iournies the passenger goes slowly following loaded Cammels their Horses are easie enough to ride vpon The Mules naturally haue easie and slow paces and are most commodious especially for sicke men Besides these Carauans a passenger may light vpon other commodities of taking his iourney namely when Bashaes or other Turkish Gouernours are recalled from their Gouernements and returne with their families to Constantinople For these Magistrates are often changed in Turkey and so these commodities of passage are frequent Onely the passenger must bee commended to the protection of this Basha or Gouernour which vpon a small present or gift hee will easily vndertake and sweare by his head touching it as their manner is to sweare that hee will bring him safely to his iournyes ende And the passenger who together with this caution hath a Ianizare to protect and guide him shall neede to feare no danger so as hee receiue this Ianizare from an Ambassadour Consull or Christian Merchant who will aske account of the passengers safetie from the Ianizare at his returue They haue a third commodious way for iourneys in the company of a Troope of Horse vulgarly called Cassenda which often carries the Turkes Treasure vp to Constantinople And not onely the chiefe of this Troope vpon a small gift will protect any passenger but also this course of all others is most commodious for iournies because they ride a good pace being not troubled with loaded Camels and so come speedily vnto their iournies end The French seldome vse Coaches for iourneys but at Paris he that will hire a Coach about the City shall pay seuen or eight ryals by the day Likewise at Paris very Notaries and ordinary men hire horses and foot cloathes to ride about the Citie and they pay ten soulz for the horse and fiue for the foot-cloath by the day But for iournies the French haue three sorts of horses The first is of post-horses let for a stage of some three miles shorter or longer for which a French man shall pay fifteene perhaps a stranger twenty soulz and as much for a guide besides some fiue soulz of free-gift The second sort are called Cheuaux derelais that is horses to be left at a place And for the hiring of these for a like distance of miles a passenger payes some tenne soulz and hee needes no guide to bring backe the horse because he is to leaue him in a place appointed at the end of the stage But hee may not ride these a false gallop as they vse to ride post-horses for if he that receiues the horse can find either by the note deliuered him or by the swetting of the horse that hee hath ridden an extraordinary pace hee shall pay ten soulz the ordinarie penaltie for that wrong The third sort are called Cheuaux de louage that is hired horses and these a passenger may hire to what place hee will for some fifteene or twentie soulz by the day for so many dayes till the horse may bee sent backe and at the iournies end hee deliuers the horse with a note to some friend of the owner and by the way hee payes for his meate some fiue soulz at noone and ten at night I will adde one example of my owne experience From Roane to Diepe are twelue or fourteene miles to bee ridden in some foure howers but the horses being weake passengers vse to bate at a Village called Totes in the halfe way and howsoeuer before the ciuill warre a horse of hire for this short iourney was let for ten soulz yet at the time when I passed that way they demaunded and tooke thirtie soulz reckoning three dayes for the iourney and the sending backe of the horse Hee that hired this horse from Roane to Diepe and backe againe to Roane paid no more so he returned within three dayes But if his occasions were to make any stay at Diepe or to sayle from thence to England or to iourney from thence to any other place then he paid the foresaid thirty soulz and left the horse with an host still paying for his meate some eight or ten soulz by the day till he could be sent backe Yet passengers are so frequent there as the host doth not onely soone free the passenger of this charge for the horses meate but easily gaineth himselfe some ten or more soulz from him that vndertakes to carry the horse backe to Roane In generall the Traueller must be content with hard saddles and sometimes with a rope for a bridle who hath them not of his owne The French in their Innes vse to eate at an ordinarie table together for the most part In Totes the foresaid Village of Normandy before the great ciuill war assoone as a Traueller lighted from his horse they brought him water to wash and presently set bread and wine before him for without some refection the French haue not patience to stay for supper Then at supper commonly they gaue mutton a capon or pullet and a patridge or like meates with some banqueting dishes as apples cherries grapes in Summer and chesnuts rice dried grapes and fruits in winter Then they brought cleane sheets to be aired before the passenger at the fier Lastly in the morning they gaue him his breakfast as buttered tosts or some morsell of flesh and for all this and his horsemeat he was wont to pay no more then some 12 soulz As likewise for his dinner and horsemeat some 10 soulz But after the ciuil war when I passed these parts sometimes I paid 12 sometimes 15 soulz for each meale and for my horse-meate at noone fiue soulz at night tenne soulz but an horse-man paid nothing for his bed And if any desired to breake his fast hee paid for it apart but a small matter Neither at this time was there any ordinarie Table which they call Table de l'hoste the Hosts table for since Frenchmen vse not to leaue it where any such is I should otherwise haue seene it besides that they pay not apart for breakfasts where Ordinary Tables are held as wee did in these Innes The horseman hath his bed freely the footman paies some three soulz a night In some places as vpon the confines of France towards Flanders the Hosts onely giue Linnen bread and wine and when the guests will eate Cookes bring in trayes of diuers meats ready for dressing and
will cost him sixe pence or in some places but foure pence yet this course is lesse honourable and not vsed by Gentlemen but if he will eate in his chamber he commands what meate he will according to his appetite and as much as he thinkes fit for him and his company yea the kitchin is open to him to command the meat to be dressed as he best likes and when he sits at Table the Host or Hostesse will accompany him or if they haue many Guests will at least visit him taking it for curtesie to be bid sit downe while he eates if he haue company especially he shall be offred musicke which he may freely take or refuse and if he be solitary the Musitians will giue him the good day with musicke in the morning It is the custome and no way disgracefull to set vp part of supper for his breakefast In the euening or in the morning after breakefast for the common sort vse not to dine but ride from breakefast to supper time yet comming early to the Inne for better resting of their Horses he shall haue a reckoning in writing and if it seeme vnreasonable the Host will satisfie him either for the due price or by abating part especially if the seruant deceiue him any way which one of experience will soone find Hauing formerly spoken of ordinary expences by the high way aswell in the particular iournall of the first Part as in a Chapter of this Part purposely treating thereof I will now onely adde that a Gentleman and his Man shall spend as much as if he were accompanied with another Gentleman and his Man and if Gentlemen will in such sort ioyne together to eate at one Table the expences will be much diminished Lastly a Man cannot more freely command at home in his owne House then hee may doe in his Inne and at parting if he giue some few pence to the Chamberlin Ostler they wish him a happy iourney England hath three publike Feasts of great expence and pompous solemnity namely the coronation of the Kings the Feast of S. George as well vpon his day yeerely as at all times when any Knight of the Order is installed and the third when Seriants at the Law are called The Lord Mayor of the City of London vpon the day when he is sworne enters his Office keeps a solemne Feast with publike shewes of great magnificence besides that hee and the Sheriffes of the Citie daily keepe well furnished Tables to entertaine any Gentleman or stranger that will come to them to the great honour of the City in this particular passing all other Cities of the World knowne to vs. For the point of drinking the English at a Feast will drinke two or three healths in remembrance of speciall friends or respected honourable persons and in our time some Gentlemen and Commanders from the warres of Netherland brought in the custome of the Germans large garaussing but this custome is in our time also in good measure left Likewise in some priuate Gentlemens houses and with some Captaines and Souldiers and with the vulgar sort of Citizens and Artisans large and intemperate drinking is vsed but in generall the greater and better part of the English hold all excesse blame worthy and drunkennesse a reprochfull vice Clownes and vulgar men onely vse large drinking of Beere or Ale how much soeuer it is esteemed excellent drinke euen among strangers but Gentlemen garrawse onely in Wine with which many mixe sugar which I neuer obserued in any other place or Kingdome to be vsed for that purpose And because the taste of the English is thus delighted with sweetenesse the Wines in Tauernes for I speake not of Merchants or Gentlemens Cellars are commonly mixed at the filling thereof to make them pleasant And the same delight in sweetnesse hath made the vse of Corands of Corinth so frequent in all places and with all persons in England as the very Greekes that sell them wonder what we doe with such great quantities thereof and know not how we should spend them except we vse them for dying or to feede Hogges CHAP. IIII. Of Scotland touching the Subiects contained in the first Chapter THE Longitude of Scotland extends fiue degrees from the Meridian of sixeteene degrees to that of one and twenty degrees and the Latitude extends foure degrees from the Paralel of fifty sixe degrees and a halfe to that of sixty degrees and a halfe In the Geographical description wherof I wil briefly follow the very words of Camden as neere as I can being an Authour without exception 1 The Gadeni of Scotland were of old next neighbours to the Ottadini of Northumberland in England and inhabited the Countrey now called Teyfidale wherein is nothing memorable but the Monastery of Mailors 2 In Merch so called as a bordering Countrey the Castle Hume is the old possession of the Lords of Hume neere which is Kelso the ancient dwelling of the Earles of Bothwell which were long by inheritance Admirals of Scotland and the Merch is mentioned in Histories for nothrng more then the valour of the said Earles 3 Laudania of old called Pictland shooteth out from Merch towards the Scottish narrow Sea called the Frith and is full of mountaines but hath few woods In this Country are these little Cities or Townes Dunbarre Haddington and Musleborrow places wherein hath beene seene the warlike vertue of the English and Scots Somewhat lower and neere to the foresaid Frith lies Edenborough which Ptolomy cals Castrum Alatum a rich City of old compassed with wals and the seate of the Kings whole Palace is at the East end in a vally ouer which hangs a mountaine called the Chaire of Arthur our Britan Prince and from this Pallace is an easie ascent to the West end where the length of the City ends in a steepe rocke vpon which is built a most strong Castle called the Maidens Castle the same which Ptolomy cals Alatum This City was long vnder the English Saxons and about the yeere 960 England being inuaded by the Danes it became subiect to the Scots Leth is a mile distant and is a most commodious Hauen vpon the narrow Scottish Gulfe vulgarly called Edenborough Frith 4 Towards the West lay the Selgouae vpon another Gulfe running betweene England and Scotland vulgarly called Solway Frith of the said Selgouae inhabiting the Countries called Eskedale Annandale and Nidtsdale in which is the little Towne Dunfrise 5 Next lay the Nouantes in the Valleys where Gallway and Whitterne which Citie Ptolomy calles Leucopibia are seated 6 In the little Countrie Caricta hauing good pastures is the little Towne Gergeny which Ptolomy calles Rerigonium 7 More inward lay the Damnij where now Sterling Merteth and Claidsdale are seated Here the Riuer Cluyde runnes by Hamelton the seate of the Hameltons Family of English race of which the third Earle of Arran liueth in our dayes and after by Glascow the seat of an Archbishop and a little Vniuersitie Here
all the neighbour Prouinces were thereby impouerished all which trade by the warre fell to Holland most strong in shipping or for that the vnited Prouinces haue such commodity by the Sea and waters running to all Townes and by the strength of their cities as in the heat of war they are free from the enemies incursions or any impediment of their traffick and seeme rather to carry the war to their confines then to haue it in their bosomes In which point it is not vnpleasant to remember how the Hollanders mock the Spaniards as if not acquainted with the Northern Sea the ebbing and flowing therof they thought they might at pleasure come into any hauen leade their army into any of those Prouinces that when the Spaniards first entered Holland with their Army and they cutting the banckes of the sea drowned their Country the Spaniards were therewith astonished and gaue gold chaines money and the most precious things they had to the Country people on condition they would bring them out of those watery places to firme land If any man require truer and greater reasons of these Prouinces growing rich by warre let him make curious search thereof for it is besides my purpose No doubt the frequent Armes of the sea within land passing by their Cities the innumerable waters though for the most part standing or little mouing which by made ditches carry boats and barkes to all their Cities being there more frequent then in any other part of the World and to all their Villages and compasse almost all their pastures yeeld no small commodity to their Common-wealth For they hauing little of their owne to export and wanting Corne Wood or Coales and many necessaries for their vse yet by this onely benefit and their singular industry not only most abundantly inioy all commodities of all Nations for their owne vse but by transporting them from place to place with their owne ships whereof they haue an vnspeakable number make very great gaine being delighted in Nauigation by nature as borne and bred in the midst of Seas and waters and hauing by warre heating their Flegmaticke humours attained to such skill therein as for trafficke they saile to the most remote coasts of the world and in processe of time being growne so bold sea-men as they will scarcely yeeld in this Art to the English for many former yeeres excelling therein So as their tributes imposed on Merchants commodities must needs be of exceeding great moment And not to weary my selfe with the curious search thereof I will onely adde for coniecture of the generall one particular related to me by credible men That in time when Italy suffered dearth and was supplied with corne from these parts the tributes of one Citie Amsterdam in one weeke exceeded the summe of ten thousand pounds sterling whence the reuenewes of all tributes in all the Hauens and Cities may bee coniectured to be excessiuely great So as adding the impositions vpon domesticall things and the great contributions paid by the enemies subiects vpon the confines in time of warre to purchase the safety of their persons and goods with freedome to till their grounds from the rapine of freybooting souldiers a man may well say that the vnited Prouinces are no lesse able then they haue been daring to doe great things This Common-wealth is gouerned by particular lawes and customes of diuers places and by the publike edicts vpon diuers new occasions made by the States of the Prouinces and these wanting by the Ciuill law The particular Cities are gouerned after the manner aboue named And particularly at Leyden my selfe haue obserued the inhabitants of Villages called by writings set vpon posts in the publike streets to haue their controuersies iudged by the Magistrates of the city not at any set time of the yeere but according to the occasions of other affaires at the Iudges pleasure High iniuries and maimes of any member are punished by the law which passeth ouer lighter iniuries not giuing such ample satisfactions to the wronged euen by word as the constitutions of the Sweitzers giue so as with them no lesse then in England quarrels and brawlings are frequent and often breake out into man-slaughters wherein those who will reuenge themselues by force first agree betweene themselues whether they will strike or stab and then drawing out long kniues which they ordinarily weare they wound one another by course according to their agreement either by slashes or stabs which they call schneiden and stecken They commonly allow mony to be put out to vse and to the end poore men vpon pawnes may borrow small summes for a short time they admit an Italian or Lumbard vulgarly so called in each Citie who taking a pawne lends a gulden for a brasse coine called a doigt by the weeke But this Lumbard in the French Church there is not admitted to receiue the Communion The pawne vseth to bee worth a third part more then the mony lent and one yere a day being past after the mony is due the vsurer hath the pawne to himselfe but before that time the debter at his pleasure may at any time haue his pawne first paying the borowed mony with the vse to the day of paiment And the common report then was that the States would take this as a publike Office into their owne hands to help the poore not able to pay by selling the pawnes to the owners best profit Touching inheritance Vpon the Mothers death the children may compell their Father to deuide his goods with them least perhaps hee should consume or waste the same And the wife that brought a dowry be her husband growne neuer so rich by his trade may when shee dies giue not only her dowry but halfe her husbands goods gotten in mariage to her owne Kinsmen after his death if shee haue no children by him and if she brought no dowry yet shee hath the same right to dispose of halfe her husbands goods gotten in mariage and as is supposed by their mutuall labor A sonne may not be disinherited but vpon causes approued by the Law for the Father is bound to giue a third part of his estate among his children and only hath power to dispose of the rest or any part thereof in Legacies at his pleasure The wiues of Holland buy and sell all things at home and vse to saile to Hamburg and into England for exercise of traffique I heard from credible men that the Citizens of Enchusen within thirty yeeres then past vsed to marry a wife and put her away at the yeeres end if they liked her not which barbarous custome Ciuility and Religion hath since abolished and at Delph I did see two examples of men who hauing buried their wiues did after marry their wiues Sisters It is no rare thing for blowes to happen betweene man and wife and I credibly heard that they haue slight punishments for that fault and my selfe did heare the Crier summon a man