and at convenient distance one from another which you may contrive to do in drawing out the first two years such as be of stature to be Transplanted from among them Dress these once or twice a year by cutting off the biggest side-branches to hasten their growing tall but leaving some small side-branches for this causeth them to thrive in bigness the more which they ought to do proportionable to their height or else they will be too weak to bear a top Observe this also in graffed Trees in your Nurseries or elsewhere CHAP. IV. Of Inoculating Way of Inoculating SECT 1. About a fortnight before or after Midsummer which is the best time though it may be done from the beginning of May till August when you have pitch't upon such stocks as are sit to be inoculated choose out a strong and well liking branch or shoot of that years growth upon a Tree that bears such kind of fruit as you would by this operation produce and about the middle or lower end of it for the top will be too tender six upon a leaf that hath a fresh and fair bud growing out betwixt it and the bark and about half an inch below and above the bud cut off the branch and so you will have a piece of it about an inch long remaining with a bud and a leaf on this you must cleave just through the midst so as the bud may be directly in the middle of the one half and then snip off a part of the leaf and holding it by the remainder clap it to a smooth place on the stock and with a Pen-knife score out on each side of it so much of the stock as it covers or rather a little broader because when the bark on which the bud is is taken off from its own wood and applyed to the stock it will cover a wider space of the stock than it did before after you have thus marked your Stock withdraw the Cyen again and cut the bark through where you had marked it then cut the bark cross and straight from the uppermost end of one score to the upper end of the other and cut the bark again cross and straight from one score to the other but not so low as the lower ends of the scores by a quarter of an inch then take the oblong square piece of bark that is cut on every side quite off the Stock and raise up that part of the bark that remains betwixt the side scores at the bottom of the work from the wood till you come to the lower ends of the side scores Take then a Goose-quill cut in the fashion of an Apple-scoop or Scraper and having with your Nail a little loosned the upper part of that Bark that is on the Cyen thrust the quill betwixt the bark and the wood holding it close to the wood that it may separate them and take off with the bark a little wood or root of the bud over against it If you see a hole on the inside over against the bud when you have taken the bark off cast it away that little labour is lost and try another till you find it otherwise Then put in the lower end of that Bark or Cyen betwixt the bark that was raised on the Stock and the Wood and so bind it on the stock gently with Woolen-yarn or narrow shreds of Linnen-cloth or gentle Stuff or with Basses or Bast of which the Russia Mats are made but so that the Cyen may lye close to the wood of the stock that was made bare and have a special care that you hurt not the bud Several other ways Sect. 2. There are some other ways of inoculating used differing only in the manner of the cut both in the bark of the Stock and of the Cyen And first Some proceeding in all other things as is before directed cut the Bark out of the whole length of the side scores and apply the Cyen to the disbarked place Secondly Others cut one slit only down the bark of the Stock and another cross the top of it like a great T when this is done they prepare the Cyen or bark as before directed only cutting it sharp pointed at the lower end before they take the bud off its wood then raise the bark of the Stock up on each side the slit and put in the Cyen beginning at the top and sliding it downward gently and so bind the Bark gently upon it This is the common way used among Gardeners Thirdly You may make the cross cut in the middle of the downright score on the Stock and lifting up the four corners of the bark and making the Cyen sharp at both ends put it under the bark of the Stock at both ends and then bind it But in doing this there is danger of hurting the Cyen Fourthly Mr Rea commends the making the cross cut at the lower end of the down right cut and having opened the sides put in the Cyen upward being made sharp at the upper end only Thus much to satisfie the curiosity of such as have a mind to make tryal of every way but the first that I have described at large I take to be the best CHAP. V. Observations touching Inoculating Necessary Rules SECT 1. Lest one bud fail or any mischance break it put two in every Stock but not directly under one another on the same side of the stock The branch or shoot you cut one Cyen off may yield you several About a month after the inoculating or sooner if you perceive the bark swell where the binding is cut off the binding If it grow it will fix to the stock keep its colour and that part of the leaf and stalk that was left will drop off and the bud appear fair then sometime before the next spring cut off the top of the stock a hands breadth above the place it was inoculated at and all the side-branches that grow any where upon the Stock and at Spring the bud will put forth and if any other sprouts or buds appear on the stock cut them off A Denotes the cutting of the Bark for inoculating the first way directed B The upper part of the bark taken off and the lower part raised C The Bark prepared to put in the Stock D The first inoculation finished E The second way described by taking the Bark off the Stock in an oblong square F The same finished G The cutting the Bark of the Stock according to the Gardiners ordinary way H The sides of the Bark opened to put in the bark or shield I The Bark of the Cyen prepared for that purpose K This way of inoculation finished L The cutting of the Bark of the Stock according to Mr. Rea 's best approbation M The opening the Bark on each side the slit N The Bark prepared to be put in O The same finished P The cut of the Cyen and the Stock for side-graffing Q The cut of the Bark of the Stock for
a years time and more choose such suckers as grow at greatest distance from the old Tree Ordering the heads of Dwarfs Sect. 9. In Graffing or Inoculating Stocks for Dwarf-trees observe to do it as low as you well can with two Cyens and those longer than in Graffing for large Standards that they may spread from the ground And after they are grown two or three years in the places they are to stand in to make them spread and to keep the boughs outward you may tye an old hoop of a Barrel or some such thing in the midst of the branches to bear them a good distance one from another but if one branch be much stronger or more inclined to grow upright than the rest then you may drive a Stake into the ground and tye the sturdy one down to it If you cut the bark cross-wise in several places on the inside of the branches when they are placed as you would have them it will be a means to make them more willing to continue in that order of their own accord after some years growth If any one branch shoot out much further than the other cut off its top to keep it even with the rest and yearly cut much off especially new shoots that grow directly upward after they are grown to that height you design them to be of which may be about a yard and a half Trees of Cuttings Sect. 10. Having directed how to raise Kentish-Codlings Gennet-moils Quinces or any that grow of cuttings for Stocks I need give no other rules for raising Trees or Hedges of the same kind of Fruit only you need not cut them so short as you do for stocks I have seen Codlings Graffed on Crab-stocks and set in a Garden but I think it will encrease their growth because Crab-stocks have great roots and will yield them more plenty of nourishment than roots of their own putting forth when they are raised by Cuttings Others Graff Gennet-moils on Crab-stocks and they thrive well and bear a larger and some think a better Fruit than those Trees of that kind raised by Cuttings I have Graffed several of them in rough and woody grounds which have grown with very strong shoots and covered the Stocks very soon CHAP. X. Of Planting an Orchard SECT 1. So far as it lyeth in a Mans power to choose a plot of ground for his Orchard Choice of ground he ought to do it with respect to these advantages It should lye conveniently near him declining and lying open towards the South South-East or South-West and defended from the North North-East and North-West winds by buildings woods or higher grounds the land should rather incline to dryness than moisture without Springs the Soil deep and a fat Earth not a stiff cold Clay or binding Gravel nor a light sandy or eskie hollow Earth Yet with good Husbandry if it run not into the extreams of any of these Fruit-trees may prosper reasonable well in it A. The erder of Trees in the Orchard B. The Garden wall C. The Chissell D. The Ladder E. The Instrument to graff in the bark with To qualifie ground Sect. 2. If the Land you intend for it be a Turf or green-sward you will do well to Plow it two years before you set your Trees in it to make it mellow and loose that the Trees may the better take root and you may then lay on Manure which by Plowing will be well mixt with the natural Soil and use such Manure as will best suit to amend it according to what you have heard before in the 8th Chap. Sect. the 6th If your Land lye very flat that wet is apt to stand upon it or be a shallow soil you may something help it in Plowing also by gathering the Land always up in and near the place where you intend the rows of Trees shall afterwards stand which in two years time will something raise it and thicken the Soil and the Reanes or Furrows so made will help to carry off the Water But if it be a springey Land you must Trench it at the head of the Spring and that deeper than the Channel of the Spring runs in the Earth which you may leave open and yearly cleanse or fill it with Oler boughs and cover them with the Turf and Earth that came forth much higher than the other Land for the Wood and loose Earth will sink very much by degrees If it be not springey but only lye so low and flat that in the Winter Rain or Land-floods will lye upon it and that it hath been lately Plowed or that you will not lose two years time by Plowing it before you set your Trees or if it be a shallow or ebb soil you had best set the Trees by Tumping according to the directions in Field-planting which you will find hereafter spoken fully to in its proper place Of uneven ground Sect. 3. If there be any unevenness in the Land some direct to level it by carrying the banks into low places but this will not only be very chargeable but hurtful by making the high places too barren and the low ground too rich But that your Trees may grow somewhat level in their tops and not one over-shade another and also appear comely you may forecast to set such Trees as grow pendant or are not apt to grow tall Trees on the highest ground and such as are aspiring in the lower places Time and manner of planting it Sect. 4. The best time to Transplant into Orchards is from the end of September to near the end of November the sooner the better If the leaves are not all fallen when you remove your Trees pick them off If your Trees are not very weak bodied Prune them up leaving three or four of the principal branches on the top that grow outward which should be lopp'd off almost a years growth but if they be weak lest the wind should injure them by tossing them you may top them lower doing it at a bud or small twig and in big Trees cut the top almost all off and whensoever you transplant young Trees cut off the end of all big roots Of removal of Trees Sect. 5. At three years end after Graffing in the Nursery Trees may be fit to be removed into an Orchard especially if you Plow or which is safer dig the Orchard land and set Beans and other Kitchen-Garden-stuff in it for some years but if it be such a piece of Land that you Graze then you must be sure their heads be grown out of the reach of Cattle before you set them there and you must Fence them one of the ways mentioned hereafter in the Chapter of Field-planting Of distance Sect. 6. The distance of Trees in Orchards ought not to be less than eight yards neither need it be more than thirteen or fourteen the richer the Land is the greater distance you ought to set the Trees at from one another to which
of the ground again not above one or two buds You may chance to have suckers of an old Vine which will be sure to grow Suckers Or you may take Cuttings of Vine branches of that years growth Cuttings and set them in good warm loose land and many will grow if it be in the place you intend they shall always stand in next year lay down a part of that which hath grown out to root also or else upon removal lay in the new growth all but a bud or two with that part which is already rooted If it have made but small growth the first year lay part of the second years growth in the ground it will more advantage them by helping them to good roots than the loss of a year or two's growth in the top will amount to Cure an old Vine If you have an old Vine that beareth not well lay down in February or March some of the strongest branches of the foregoing year that grow low in the mold under the old Tree without cutting them off leaving out of the ground a bud or two to grow and your wall will quickly be furnished with new and fresh branches so that by degrees you may cut off many of the old branches of the Vine for though one Vine may cover abundance of walling yet three or four roots in that compass will strengthen it the more to bear Of pruning Sect. 3. As Vines stand in more need of pruning than other Fruit-trees so great care is to be taken in the performing of it when you have set your Vine as you have been before directed so that not above two buds of it remain above ground you are to nail up such branches as grow forth up to the wall till it have overspread as much wall as you design for it suffering not above two branches to grow from the ground and snipping yearly the tops of the branches a considerable length as far as they are weak and tender and also all small poor ones close to the body unless the well liking branches be but few and then you may leave the lowest bud of some of them to grow forth next year and this you are to do towards the end of February or beginning of March yearly When your Vine comes to bear you are to use your knife about it three times in the year 1. Time In February or the beginning of March you are to prune off part of the foregoing years shoots where they are too thick close to the old wood As it enriches your Vine to keep it thin of branches so you must take care it be well stor'd with buds against the spring following for it bears Grapes only on the new shoots of every year and in cutting off these branches you must take care your wall continue furnished with such branches as may be spread upon the wall regularly and decently not thick in one place and thin in another nor crossing one another 2. The next time to take off superfluities from your Vine is about Midsummer when the Grapes are knit clip off then the end of the branches that have Grapes on them a little above the Grapes that they may have the more nourishment and keep them nail'd to the wall as also barren branches where the wall needs them 3. The last time of cutting is in August for then because leaves and branches may be so thick as to keep the heat of the Sun from the Grapes which is necessary to ripen them you may pluck off some of the leaves and cut off some of the branches to open way for the Sun to come to them There 's one thing to be observed in the pruning these peculiar to it Place That whereas others are cut at a bud the branches of these must be cut off near the midst betwixt two buds and that not later in the year than the beginning of March for afterward the sap or juice will run out and the Vine will be much weakned by bleeding Bleed You will by that time also see what the Frost of the Winter foregoing hath kill'd which must be taken all away If Frosts come before any Grapes are ripe Frosts defend them in the night time with Tilâ—s or Mats Sect. 4. Vineyard It 's scarce worth while to have a Vineyard here in England there having begn many and now so few affords a strong Argument to prove that attempts of that kind never turn to account The usage of the People in such cases being of no small authority It 's possible that persons that have very warm ground well situated with care and industry may some years have good Grapes without the benefit of a wall I have seen not far from Bristol in a year that was very favourable to them Grapes ripen well without such help Sect. 5. Fig-tree Fig-trees ought to be planted in a very warm place against a wall defended from the North and North-East wind every old Tree will yield plenty of suckers fit to raise new ones Sect. 6. Quince-tree You have seen the way of raising Quince-trees in the Chapter of Dwarfs I shall here only add that if you have a part of a Tree that groweth so low that you can bring it to the ground either by plashing or otherwise you may do it in the beginning of Winter and cover it all with Earth but the ends of the branches and let it continue so one year and then uncover it and every twig will have put forth roots in the Earth which being cut off and transplanted will make you a tree And this is the way of propagating of Fruit-trees by layers Layers and you may here take notice that all such Trees that may be propagated by Cuttings may be raised likewise by Layers and this way takes more sure than by Cuttings Quince-trees delight in a moist rich Land Soil near some gutter that carries away the soke or wash of a Dunghil or House is a place usually chosen for them and is such as they like very well in Sect. 7. Medlar-tree Medlars are raised by graffing on the Pear-tree Crab-tree White-thorn or Service-tree the last is the best and the White-thorn by much the worst You may get Plants of Services out of woods Service-tree where they grow wild from which you may raise Service-trees or stocks for Medlars or if you can get none such graff the Service on the Wickey-berry-tree or the White-thorn Sect. 8. Wallnut-trees Wallnut-trees are much Planted of late and are very proper for walks in grounds and a good fence to shelter Buildings and Orchards the fruit is useful and very profitable if you can spare any to sell or for Oil for Painters if the market should be glutted with them and the Timber so excellent for Tables Chairs and Stools stooking of Guns c. that it goes off well and takes a good price way of raising They are raised by Nuts
gathered from the same Trees if you can let them have their green husks on them for the bitterness thereof will defend the kernels from being eaten by worms before they spring up but you must chiefly respect their full ripeness at which time they are apt to shed their husks You may either set them as they come immediately from the Tree or keep them in the sand till March. Soil and transplanting Set them in rich dry warm Land and when you transplant them set them as speedily as you can after taking up and cut off little of the roots but by no means the tap or heart-root as in other Trees and top them not at all if you can help it but if the Tree be so tall crooked or dead at the top before removal that you must put a peg or some soft wax into the pith-pole or cover the cut with clay that wet may not get in and make it dye downward because these Trees have a large pith when you do cut off the top do it if you can at a side branch or sprig and that will spread under the clay and cover the tops again You may cut off many side branches when you transplant them No Cattle will bronze or peel them Fencing by reason of their bitterness so that a fence that will preserve them from Cattles rubbing against them is sufficient They will grow well in a loose Soil gravelly stony or almost rockey land and best where they are at first set without being removed Plant without 〈◊〉 to which end you may in such a hillock as is spoken of in Field-planting but not so broad nor so high set three or four Nuts or more and about two years after they are grown up pluck up gently all but one of them that is likely to make the best Tree I have seen Chesnut-trees grow in England to be very large Chesnut-trees and bear good Fruit on a hot dry land They are excellent for a defence from winds and better than Walnut-trees but of much slower growth It 's not good to top them as some do when they transplant them way of raising They are raised by setting Nuts that are come fresh from beyond Sea at the end of the year or from good Nuts well ripened in England which you may set with the husks on when they are fallen or rather kept in Sand till the great Frosts are over These Trees grow best likewise without being ever removed some say they will grow well being graffed upon Oakes Beech or Walnut-trees The Horse-Chesnut groweth of Layers and makes delicate Trees for Avenues Filbeards Nuts Filbeards and Hazle-nuts worthy to be planted in Orchards or Gardens are raised from Nuts set in the Earth or Suckers from the roots of an old Tree or may be graffed on the common Hazle-Nut Sect. 9. Mulberry-trees are raised by Suckers Layers or Cuttings Goosberies Currans Barberries and Rasberries Goosberries Currans Barberries and Rasberries are raised by Suckers of which you may have plenty about the roots of old Trees When they have grown some years suffer not many suckers to grow about them nor cut the tops to a round close bush as many Gardeners do whereby they grow so thick that they neither hear nor ripen their Fruit so well as if they grew taller and thinner CHAP. XIV Of the several kinds of Fruits Of choice of Fruit-trees SECT 1. As to Wall-fruit and Dwarfs if the Planter have convenient room he ought not only to have one or two Trees of each good kind but also some of that which is but indifferent that is ripe or will keep good at such time when better eating fruit is not to be had and more of lasting winter fruit than of summer or any one sort Of Peaches Sect. 2. Of Peaches the first and soonest ripe is the White-Nutmeg next to that the Red-Nutmeg next to that the Troy which is ripe almost assoon and a better Fruit next ripe are The Izabella Savoy Early Newington Burdeaux Old Newington Violet-Muscat Persian Modena Morello Rumbullian Scarlet Bellice Royal Peach These are accounted excellent kinds of Peaches and there are many other good sorts besides these and so there are of Apples Pears c. more than I have mentioned in this tract for I think it not necessary to trouble either the Reader or my self with them here but only to mention some choice Fruit of every kind and leave every one to please his own fancy and store himself with them or others as he approves them and hath convenience so to do Of Nectarines Sect. 3. The best Nectarines are The Red-Roman Murry Tawny Paper-white Nectarines There are others though worse sorts as The Yellow Painted Russet Red Nectarines The Algiers is commended by some because it parts easily from the stone Of Apricocks Sect. 4. Amongst Apricocks the Algier and Masculine are first ripe The Turkey is much commended so is the Orange the white Apricock is also accounted better than the common Of Plums Sect. 5. Plums to be preferred before others are as follow The red and blew Primordian as being first ripe though not so good Fruit as several following The next ripe The Morocco Merabolen Violet Apricock Barbary Black and Green Damascene Prunella Queen Mother Kings Matchless Black-Pear-Plum Pescod Bonum Magnumque Cheston Marbled Imperial Nutmeg Turkey Plum These you may set to a wall though most of them will bear well being Dwarfs or Standards if you have not wall enough The White-pear-plum Prune Damsons and Verdock are good Preserving Plums The Muscle Wheat Lammas Plum Bullice Damsons and several course Plums are raised by Suckers without graffing or inoculating and may be set in Orchards Hedges or any common places Of Cherries Sect. 6. The May Cherry is first ripe and should have a good wall to expedite its ripening for though they are but ordinary Fruit yet their earliness makes them a rarity Next ripe are The Duke Flanders Red-heart Lukeward Bleeding-heart Spanish-black Naples Carnation Amber Cherry The great bearing Cherry of Millain and Morella are blackish when ripe and blood-red within excellent to make Cherry Wine affording a strong and vinous liquor These two last and the Prince-Royal are good to Preserve If you have not room upon your walls these will bear well in any warm place planted as standards Those that you find put forth small twigs and have a small dark green leaf are easiliest kept Dwarf-trees Of Grapes Sect. 7. The first ripe Grapes are the small Black or Cluster Grape next the Muskadine red and white the two sorts of Frontiniacks The Muscat Grape de Arbois Raison of the Sun Red Orleance Burlet Parsley Grape Of Pears Sect. 8. Pears are of very many kinds and are much improved by being Planted against walls In France they are accounted among their best Fruit and the best kinds do well deserve it The Summer and Winter-Bon-Cristien growing pendent
risings and lie even to the side of the Stock Cut then the top of the Cyen off close above a bud about four inches above the shoulder if it be for a standard Tree two buds above the clay being full enough but for Dwarf or Wall-trees you may let the Cyen be six inches long with several buds that they may shoot forth many branches and spread from the very Stock The Cyen or Graff thus prepared lay the cut part of the Cyen on the West or South-west side of the Stock and so measure and mark the breadth and length of it then cut away so much of the bark of the Stock as the cut part of the Cyen may fit drawing your Knife upward but as the stock is bigger and the bark thicker than that on the Cyen so the chip must be longer and broader or else the passage for the sap in the Stock and Cyen which is chiefly betwixt the bark and the wood will not meet together as in the work you will easily see which should be aimed at Then lay the cut part of the Cyen on the cut part of the Stock and bind it on with course Woollen-yarn Basses or the inward peeling of the Witch-tree if you bind with such a material as will not be loose or rotten by Midsummer about that time give it a cut cross-wise with a Knife to set the prisoners at liberty Have in readiness good Clay free from Stones mixt with long Hay and daub it about the Stock and Cyen a full inch above and below the head of the Stock work it up round the Cyen till it be sharp at the top that the rain water may run down it and with a Knife or little trowel dipt in water smooth over the clay in doing this be sure not to displace the Cyen Thus you may Graft Pears Plums Cherries and Apples if it be before the bark of the Stock will part from the wood of them for when it will the next way following is better for Apples In the Bark the best ways Sect. 2. The second way called Graffing in the Bark is much like this and I preferr it from experience much before the fore-mentioned or any other way but it can only be used for Apples because all Cyens of other Fruit will be grown past use before the bark of the Stocks will peel which is about the end of March or the beginning of April but this will be time enough for Apples if your Stocks be in any thing good liking which if they be not they are not fit to be Graffed any way Prepare then your Stock and Cyen exactly as you were directed in packing only instead of cutting the bark off the Stock slit it on the South-west side from the top almost as long as the sloped part of the Cyen and loosen the bark at the top of the slit with the point of your Knife Have in readiness a little Instrument made of Ivory or a Deer or Sheep-shank or Silver or hard smooth Wood at one end let it be made of the shape of the slope part of the Cyen but much less every way thrust it down betwixt the Bark and the Wood of the Stock where it was slit to make room for the Cyen take it out and put in the Cyen but first cut a little of the bark at the thin end of the slope of the Cyen that it double not in going down yet leave it with a sharpe edge and because when your Cyen is put in it will bear the bark hollow from the stock nick or slit the bark on each side the Cyen so that it may fall close to the Stock and to the edges of the Cyen Bind and Clay it as you have already heard These two are the best ways of Graffing for these Reasons 1. Because Stocks may be Graffed thus some years before they can be ready to graff in the cleft and though Whip-graffing may be used sooner than either of these yet there are other great inconveniences attending it as you will see hereafter 2. The Stocks are this way less harmed than where a cleft is used because the cleft lets wet into them and makes them not so fit for Graffing again if any fail to grow the first time as these continue to be though they should once miscarry or come to any mischance 3. The Cyen will much sooner and better cover the Stock and so make a more healthful sound and swifter growing Tree 4. This is much more speedy easie and sure to succeed Sect. 3. Whip-Graffing There is another way called Whip-graffing and here your Stock and Cyen ought to be exactly of the same bigness as the manner of performing it plainly sheweth which is as followeth Slope off the Cyen a full inch or longer and do the like to the Stock and tye the one upon the other You may if you will make a shoulder on the Cyen and cut the top of the Stock to suit with it and then bind them together and clay about the place This way is successful enough so that special care be taken that both Stock and Cyen suit exactly where they are joyned together which is somewhat troublesome to do and so it is to find Cyens and Stocks of an equal bigness besides the head will be apt to overgrow the Stocks all that can be done to prevent it is to Graff these very low or if high to give the Stock more liberty to thicken by slitting the Bark of it with a Knife In this way of Graffing there is another little knack may be added to very good purpose and that is when the Stock and Cyen are prepared as you heard before to be joyned together to make a slit with a Knife in the bare place of the Stock downward beginning towards the top of the slope and so slitting it a little way and doing the like in the sloped face of the Cyen but beginning at the same distance from the lower end of it as you did before from the top of the Stock and so carrying it upwards and then join them by thrusting the one slice into the other till the bare place of the Cyen cover the bare place of the Stock This may be done likewise in Graffing by packing and in both conduceth much to strengthen the work and is called by some Lipping or Tonguing Sidâ— Graffing Sect. 4. I am now going to describe another way that I never read of neither ever knew more than one that used it and he a skilful Gardner and us'd it very much Knowing no name for it I have given it the name of Side-graffing It 's done by preparing the Cyen as in Whip-graffing then without cutting off the head of the Stock but making it thin of side Branches from a smooth place of it on the West-side take off as much bark as the Cyen will cover as in Packing and slit both Cyen and Stock according to the directions given in the end of
you intend to cut them off at for about a foot in length fasten about them some Earth in an old Hat or Boot or Bag made of some strong Cloth and in that Earth they will have put forth Roots against the October following when you are to cut them off to set them Or which is a quicker and readier way you may dawb some wet Earth or Clay about the place and wrap a Hay-band about it putting some moist Earth likewise betwixt the rounds of the band and then running it about again over the spaces betwixt those first rounds of the Hay-band and making fast the ends of it If the stem have no burr before you go either of these ways to work then first take off here and there a little slice of Bark about an inch long round about it near the middle of the place to be covered as hath been directed Some direct That before this application of the Earth about an inch breadth of the Bark be taken off round about the part of the branch that is to be surrounded with the Earth that roots may shoot out in greater quantity by coming out in the upper skirts of that circle as well as in the lower but this is but a Crotchet and grounded as my Lord Bacon hath truly observed upon the opinion of the Descension of the Sap whereas indeed there is no such thing for the whole mass of Sap is always afcending in lesser quantity in the Winter because the Tree is then only to be nourished and kept alive to which end a small supply is sufficient and yet necessary and in greater plenty in the Summer to furnish the Tree with leaves fruit and new yearly growth And the true reason why the leaves and fruit fall off towards Winter is not because the sap returns downward from them but because they have arrived to their full ripeness and the Tree fails by degrees to convey up so much Sap as it did in the Summer to them to produce fresh ones and therefore consequently that 's an idle mistake too to think that the sap or juice in the Winter is laid up in the Roots as a repository as appears plainly inasmuch as they are ever found dryer in the Winter than in the Summer So that upon the whole this taking the Bark off round the branch is good for nothing but to endanger it by intercepting the juice or sap which rifes in greatest quantity betwixt the bark and the wood but if as before was hinted you take some little slices of the bark off round the branch here and there leaving the Bark intire in some places this may by checking the Sap cause it the more abundantly to pass into roots But to proceed to the business in hand you have seen the way of preparing cutting by circumposetion and though some will pretend to raise Trees of any kind by the use of it yet it 's certain it avails not but only in such as by a peculiar property are apt to put forth roots being cut off and set into the ground and those generally known and made use of this way are the Kentish Codling the Genneâ—-Moil some sorts of Sweet-Apples and Bitter-sweets the Quince-tree the Mulberry-tree and the Paradise-Apple-tree which last is much commended by the skilful Mr. Rea for to raise Stocks for Dwarf-Apple-trees 〈…〉 Sect. 6. Another way to raise Stocks for Dwarf-trees is to cut down some one Tree of little worth of such a kind as you want Stocks of about a foot or more from the ground This will make some kind of Trees very apt to cast forth very good Suckers from the old roots such as at two years growth may be transplanted and the Stump above ground will also put forth abundance of young Shoots After these young shoots have grown out of the stump one year cast Mold or Earth about them a good height so that you cover not the tops of any of them where let them grow two years more and they will be well rooted then cut them off from the old Stock which after that may yield fresh ones again and set the shoots you take off as before hath been directed about Cuttings These will be about three years longer before they be ready to Graff than Cuttings but will be very good young fresh Stocks and is a good way to raise Stocks of the Quince-tree for Pears because Quince-trees generally grow so crooked and irregular that it 's difficult to procure any considerable quantity of them by Cuttings If they shoot up tall after they are molded you had best top them at a convenient height it will make them grow the more in bigness and so be sooner sit to Graff But if you have a desire to have any of the same kind as the old Tree was you need not top them And by this means if you want Quince-trees Codlings c. you may be furnished with plenty that will make better and handsomer Trees than if you raise them by Cuttings By Suckers Sect. 7. You may also raise Stocks for Dwarf-Pear-trees from Suckers of old Pear-trees if you cannot conveniently get enow of the Quince-tree for many Pear trees cast them naturally which being preserved from Cattle may be taken up and set in beds of Earth as you did the Seedlings If your Pear-trees yield not Suckers of themselves you need only cut off the top of some old ill Pear-tree and Graff it with a better Fruit if you please and the roots will cast forth Suckers plentifully and you may help them by making a small Ditch or Gutter so as to bare some of the roots about two yards distant from the Tree or pare off the Grass if any grow about the Tree that they may have the more liberty to spring up Or in this case you may bare the roots and then give a cut cross some roots almost to the heart and from the cross cut cleave the root raising up the loose part and put in a little stone to keep it open cover it three inches over with mold let this be done if you can where you find a bud or eye on the root for the sucker to shoot out at and either Inoculate the young shoot in the place where it stands or remove it to some other place after a years growth and when you do cut off with it about a foot of the old root and by this means you may have suckers from some other Trees that do not naturally yield them For Câ—erriâ—s and Plums Sect. 8. To have Stocks for Dwarf-Cherries and Plums or for such Trees for a Wall the speediest way and such as will succeed for that purpose is by suckers of the common Red-Cherry and any ordinary Plum-tree both which cast up suckers plentifully If the Suckers grow in a place that is secure from harm you may Inoculate or Graff them before removal under their Mother Plant and let them grow there one year after and hereby you will gain
of Some have used Hay-ropes Hay-ropes bound about the Tree from the ground to a sufficient height but this were endless in a Nursery it may be done in an Orchard but there are other ways to be preferr'd before it Others therefore dawb the bodies of the Trees over with Tar Tar. which being used alone endangers the life of very young Plants and extreamly hardens the bark and otherwise hurts them which evil is prevented by mixing the Tar with any kind of Grease Tar and Grease and boiling them on a fire so as both may incorporate then with a brush or little broom daub over the body of the Tree as high as a Hare or Rabbet can reach and if this be done in November it will preserve the Trees for that whole year with that once doing it being the winter time only that they will feed upon the bark Some use Grease alone Grease and then it may require to be laid on twice in a Winter Mans dung Some thin stuff out of a House of Office or the thick tempered with water and brush't on once in a Winter hath been often used with good success Sect. 3. Pismires If you find Pismires or Ants breed about or near the roots of any of your Trees cast away the Earth they lodge in and supply its place with some stiff clay if they breed distant in several places some direct to dawb the Tree about with Tar that their feet may be taken in it but you heard already that 's prejudicial to young Trees but if they pester you extreamly and your Tree be young you may bind a single list or shread of Cloth about it and once aweek when buds and blossoms are putting forth for that is the chief time they prejudice them daub the Cloth over with Tar. Sect. 4. Moles Moles are to be kill'd especially in Seed-plots and Nurseries Spring-traps or Box-traps are best to destroy them not easily describ'd but are now know almost generally I have heard that Water-Rats will spoil a whole Nursery Water-rats getting through Mole-holes and barking or eating the young roots I found several roots once so served and it being near a Fish-pond I suspected it was done by them but finding also a Snake in a hole among the Roots Snakes I knew not whether that might not be the Enemy Ests or Askers Ests or as some call them Askers are also said to be pernicious to Trees but these three last accidents are so rare and inconsiderable that it 's needless to labour much about remedies against them only as men find them to destroy them Blastings Caterpillars Sect. 5. The greatest prejudice to fruit is by blastings frosts immediately succeeding rain Caterpillars or black Flies that cat up buds leaves and blossoms There 's one way used to help in all these cases for Orchard fruit but I know not how it should be useful for any but the last two for which I dare commend it And that is that when in the Spring you perceive these Caterpillars or Flies appear make fires of something that will smoak so near the Orchard and in such places that the wind may carry the smoak as much through the Trees as may be Smoak A thing frequently used is Hempsheaves as it 's called being the stalk of the Hemp when the tow is separated from it and it s certainly very good but bad Chaff wet Straw or moldy Hay or any thing of that nature may serve turn Snails are pernicious to Wall-fruit Snails therefore destroy as many of them as you can when they are best to be discovered which is early in the morning Cover wall-fruit And to preserve your Wall-fruit from blasting winds and Frosts it will be necessary to cover them in the nights and cold days by hanging before them Matts or Blankets some stick branches of broom before the blossoms and young tender fruit To preserve ripe fruit from birds Birds spread an old Net before the Wall-fruit or upon the Dwarf-trees CHAP. XIII Some particular Rules about some kinds of Fruit-trees besides the general rules already mentioned Of Vines SECT 1. Grapes seldom or never ripen well in this Isle without help of art and industry to which purpose take these directions 1. To plant such as ripen soonest in the year that they may have as much of the summer heat at ripening time as may be 2. Let the wall you plant them against be a full South or but a little inclining to the East or if you have a half-round or corner in a wall or the back of a brick Chimney make use of such places for them Of low Walls Vines will prosper well against a high wall yet that is not altogether so necessary but that low walls may serve turn and the higher may be reserved for such fruit-trees as will not do well without them That of a Tarras-walk may do well for Vines and the gravel-walk under the wall will mightily encrease the heat about them Narrow places in Walls If you plant any Trees against your dwelling House-wall there may be some narrow places between two Windows or the like where other fruit-trees have not room to spread A Vine may grow up there and above those narrow places enlarge it self where ever it meets with room Betwixt Fruit trees You may also plant a Vine betwixt every fruit-tree that groweth against your hottest walls and let it spread a little in the Summer time into the Fruit-trees on either side especially if the fruit of such Trees use to be early ripe or that they bear little Fruit or have not been so long set as to have covered the wall And though such Vines cannot extend themselves to that bigness as those planted where they have more room yet by this means you will make advantage of such portions of your wall as otherwise you could have had little benefit from Proper Soil Sect. 2. The best ground for them is that which is rich and dry inclinable to stony or gravel so it bind not the best dung to fatten the Earth they grow in is Horse or Sheeps dung Make bare the roots in the beginning of Winter and throw in plenty of the same dung most Winters Way of propagating The best way of propagating of them is in November to lay a branch of that years growth into the Earth under the old Tree without cutting it off lay as many joynts or buds in the Earth as you can leaving but one or two out for it puts forth its roots chiefly at the joynts at a years end or in the February cometwelve-month cut it off from the old one and plant it where you design it should grow lay it in the Earth in the same posture it lay in before and also lay some of the buds of the new wood that grew out since it was first laid down that it may gain the more roots leaving out