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A07834 An itinerary vvritten by Fynes Moryson Gent. First in the Latine tongue, and then translated by him into English: containing his ten yeeres trauell through the tvvelue dominions of Germany, Bohmerland, Sweitzerland, Netherland, Denmarke, Poland, Jtaly, Turky, France, England, Scotland, and Ireland. Diuided into III parts. The I. part. Containeth a iournall through all the said twelue dominions: shewing particularly the number of miles, the soyle of the country, the situation of cities, the descriptions of them, with all monuments in each place worth the seeing, as also the rates of hiring coaches or horses from place to place, with each daies expences for diet, horse-meate, and the like. The II. part. Containeth the rebellion of Hugh, Earle of Tyrone, and the appeasing thereof: written also in forme of a iournall. The III. part. Containeth a discourse vpon seuerall heads, through all the said seuerall dominions. Moryson, Fynes, 1566-1630. 1617 (1617) STC 18205; ESTC S115249 1,351,375 915

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And in the very Sepulcher the burning Lampes giue light besides that the dores lye open And because raine must needes fall from the open Globe the Sepulcher hath a couer borne vp with pillars of Marble and laid ouer with Lead to receiue the raine The Sepulcher within and without is beautified with marble and was cut out of a Rocke before the Church was built The Franciscan Friers are for the most part Italians but are vulgarly called Francks of the French who are in league with the Turkish Ottoman and they haue the priuiledge of singing their Masses in the Sepulcher not of free grant but because they are best able to pay for their priuiledges yet it is free for any of the Christian Sects to come into the Sepulcher They say that from the situation of this Sepulcher the custome came among Christians to be buried with their feet face towards the East as expecting the resurrection V A Chappell kept by the Sect of the Gofti X The Sepulchers of Ioseph of Arimathea and of Nicodemus Y The Chappell of the Iacobites Z The Chappell of the Abissines X The Chappell of the Armenians X X The Chappell of the Georgians Some write that this Church hath the forme of a Crosse and if the retreat or chambers of the Italian Friers with the Chappell of Aparition on the North side and the two Towers of the Belfrey on the South side be ioyntly considered with the Church which seeme rather-fastned thereunto then of the same building a superstitious man may faigne to himselfe the figure of a Crosse but shall reuer plainely demonstrate it to others Aboue the roofe of the Church on the outside are two faire Globes whereof the greater couered with leade lies ouer the Sepulcher and the lesse all made of stone is ouer the Chauncell And this greater Globe on the inside of the Church is beautified with engrauen Ceder trees and borlie vp with pillars of Marble and the lesse hath faire pictures of the foresaid rich painting shining like enameled worke The breadth of the Church vnder both Globes containes seuentie paces and the length 140 paces and in generall as well within as without it retaines only the shaddow of the old magnificence We entred the Church on Tuesday in the afternoone and were locked there in all the night following and almost all the next day to fulfill our deuotions But I formerly said that the Italian Friers haue chambers of retreat within the Church in which we did eate and rest at our pleasure Yet these chambers and the like retreats wherein the Priests of other Sects with their wiues children and family doe lodge and eate and performe the rites of their Religion haue not any one dore into the streete but all enter the Church and goe forth by the foresaid onely dore of the Church towards the South and the key of this dore is kept by the Turkes who open it at set times to admit strangers and once euery weeke to let the Friers returne to their Monasteries and to receiue new Friers into the Church which are sent from thence to performe the feuerall rites of Religion And this dore hath a grate or little window at which the inclosed Friers may talke with their friends without and receiue meate sent them from their Monasteries Nine sundry Sects of Christians haue their Monasteries within this City by whom the great Turke and his officers haue great profit and the Turkes them selues repute all the monuments and places holy which Christ in his life frequented but this monument of his death and other like they despise and keepe them onely for their profit From the said Monasteries Friers are weekely sent to performe their seuerall rites and at the weekes end they are recalled to the Monasteries and new sent in their place which custome I thinke they take from the Iewes For when Dauid diuided the twentie foure Families of the sonnes of Aaron into twentie foure courses that each of them might one after the other in due order performe the holy offices in the Temple Iosephus writes that these courses or Families in order one after the other liued in the Temple from Sabbath to Sabbath to performe those duties Of these nine Christian Sects each hath priuiledges to keepe this or that monument within the Citie and in the field in which places they performe the rites of their Religion And according to the number of the Sects they maintaine nine Lampes continually burning in the foresaid common Church vpon the stone of Vnction as many vpon the Sepulcher and as many vpon Mount Caluarie The nine Sects are thus called Franks namely the Italians Georgians Greekes Sorians Costi Abissines Armenians Nestorians and Maronites The Religion of the Frankes namely Papists is so well knowne as I will omit it here and referre it to his due place I will onely say that they haue the keeping of the Sepulcher the Chappell of A parition and therein of the pillar of whipping and of one Altar vpon Mount Caluarie for the performance of their rites The Georgians are a warlike Nation inhabiting Media and the Caspian Mountaines and haue their name of Saint George whom they haue chosen their protecting Saint They haue a King and making warre valiantly sometimes vpon the Turkes sometimes vpon the Persians could neuer bee conquered by either Yea if they bee oppressed by either they easily finde helpe from the other out of their mutuall hatred Therfore they pay no tribute to the Turkes but by singular priuiledge freely enter into Ierusalem armed and with banner displaied Neither dare the Turkes offer them the least iniurie lest when they returne home they should reuenge it vpon the Turkes lying neare them Their very women are warlike like the Amazons and carrying bowes shew valour both in countenance and behauiour The men weare long haire on their heads and beards saue that they all are shauen like Clerkes vpon the Crowne of the head the Lay-men in a foure-square the Priests in a round forme They expresly follow the Religion Rites and Ceremonies of the Greekes and in their Diuine seruice vse the Greeke tongue otherwise speaking their owne language as I thinke Caldean These in the Church of Ierusalem haue the keeping of Mount Caluary and the Altar there built ouer the place where they say the Crosse of Christ stood and in the Citie they keepe the house of the High Priest Annas Of the Greekes Religion I must speake at large in his due place Now I will onely say that in the Church they keepe the Chauncell and therein shew a hole in the pauement compassed with Marble which they say is the very middle point of the world Against which opinion I argued with them and obiected that the earth is round and that in a Globe the center is in the middest all centers in the outside being but imaginarie and to be placed wheresoeuer the measurer will Also that in measuring after their manner the
gallowes with a condemned man that he might beware by that example And I haue seene others for stealing vnder the said value put in a basket and thrise ducked in the riuer for a warning vpon the first fault And I haue often heard them tax our English Iustice for hanging those that steale aboue the value of thirten pence halfe-peny which will hardly buy a rope By the Ciuill Law he that findes any thing and for gaine keeps it is guilty of theft for he ought to make it publikely knowne and to restore it being owned or other wise if he be poor to keep it if he be rich to distribute it among the pore By the Law of Saxony it is a theeuish thing not to make publikely knowne any thing that is found but hee that so doth shall not suffer death or any corporall punishment because he did not of purpose take it away but if he that lost it doe cry it in the Church or market-place then if it be more then the value of fiue shillings hee is thought worthy to be beaten with rods or to indure such arbitrary punishment according to the value of the thing found By the Ciuill Law hee that cuts downe trees secretly shall pay the double value but by the Law of Saxony the mulct is according to the value By the Ciuil Law they that steale the necessaries belonging to husbandry shall restore foure fold and also incurre infamy But one Law of Saxony condemnes them to haue their bones broken with wheeles and another Law makes the punishment arbitrary The Ciuill Law confiscates goods for which custome is not payd but the Law of Saxony imposeth Fyne aswell vpon those which pay not customes and duties as vpon those that passe not the beaten way where they are paied but go some by way to defraud the Prince By the Ciuill Law sacrilegious persons are beheaded but by the Law of Saxony their bones are broken vpon the wheele and markes are set vp according to the number of their offences in that kynd By the Ciuill Law no offender may be burnt in the forehead because the face may not be dissigured as created to the similitude of God but in Saxony those whch are beaten with rods or banished are also many times marked by being burnt in the hand or by cutting off their eares or by pulling out their eyes or by being burnt in the cheekes so as the haire may not couer the marke but it may be manifest to strangers in forraine parts Yet the interpreters of that Law thinke at this day that offenders can not be so punished by that Law and that a theefe ought not so to be marked By the ciuil Law witches doing any act wherupon a man dies are to be beheaded but by the Law of Saxony they are to be burnt Yet by a late Statute of the Elector they are sometimes beheaded for you must vnderstand that in all places the Prouinciall Law is daily increased by new Statutes of Princes And by the Law of Saxony a witch hauing done no hurt by that art is punished arbitrarily And the Germans credibly report that there be many witches in the Countries lying vpon the Baltick sea and especialy vpon the Northen side therof as in Lapland being part of the kingdome of Suetia and that in those places they haue generall meetings and Colledges of witches who wil tell any man what his frends do at anytime in the remorest parts one of them falling downe as in extasie and when he comes to himselfe relating the particulars thereof and that they ordinarily sell windes to the Marriners to carry them out of the hauen to the maine sea In Germany those that set houses on fier either hired thereunto or of there ownemalice and also witches vse to bee burnt or if their crime be hainous vse to be put to death with a 〈◊〉 iron on spit thrust into their hinder partes Coines of counterfeit mony are by the Law to dye in boiling lead By the Ciuil Law the goods of a banished man may be seased to repaire any losse but it is not lawfull for any man to kill him neither is he infamous But by the Law of Saxony he that is banished by the Empire may be killed because he broke the peace and after a yeers banishment he is infamous alwaies vnderstanding that he is lawfully banished By the Ciuill Law a traitor to his country is to be burned to death but by the Law of Saxony his bones are brokn vpon the wheele and by custome many torments are in some crimes added to this punishment By the Ciuill Law he that steales a virgin widow or Nunne and all that helpe him in that rape are beheaded but by the Law of Saxony besides the beheading of the offenders the places are to be laid waste where the force was offred and the beasts to be killed that helped to doe the force as the horses which carried them away yet this is not obserued but in practise only he is put to death that offered the force Of old the women of Germany were wont to purge themselues from suspition of adultery by the combat of champions or by treading on shares of hot burning iron with their naked feet with out taking any harme and this purgation should still be obserued neither is it abrogated in Saxony but only is vanished by difusing And the Germans haue not only of old been seuere punishers of breaches in wedlocke so as it was lawfull for the husband to expell his adulterous wife out of his house before all his neighbours with her body naked and her haire shorne and so to beat her with rods through the streets but also euen to this day the chastity of wiues through the seuerity of the Law against the incontinent is no where so preserued as in Germany If a married person lie with one that is vnmarried aswell on the man as the womans side the maried party is put to death and the vnmarried is punished by the purse and with ignominy and if both parties be married boh die And our age hath seene two notable examples of this Iustice in Germany one of a Duchesse who by authority of her husband and of her owne brother was for this crime forced to drinke poison secretly for preseruing of all their honours The other of another Duchesse who was bricked vp in a most narrow roome hauing an hole in the wall by which she receiued her meat to prolong her miserable life while her husband had another wife and liued with her in the same Castle in which she thus languished In most places of Germany this sinne is punished no lesse then with death yet in some places and vpon some circumstances as of a man hauing an old and barren wife the delinquent sometimes escapes with a mulct of mony and otherwhere the iudgment is drawne out with delaies of the suit to spare the parties without manifest breaches of the Law In Bohemia adultery is also punished
Horses or any reliefe to the Towne The Spaniards made two or three light sallies to view our works on the West side as they did likewise the twelfth day but they were beaten back with ease and no losse on our part The thirteenth day we drew three peeces of Artillery from the Lord Deputies campe and planted them on the West side neere the other campe to play vpon an Abby which flancked that part where wee intended to make a new breach The same day the Spaniards taken in the Scots ship were sent for England And Sir Oliuer S. Iohns was dispatched for England and by him the Lord Deputy and the Counsell wrote this following Letter to the Lords in England IT may please your Lordships How we haue proceeded in the great businesse wee haue in hand here since ourlast dispatch vnto your Lordships of the seuenth of the last moneth wee haue thought fit to set downe by way of iournall inclosed humbly praying leaue to referre your Lordships thereunto to auoid needlesse repetition and if the seruices we haue hitherto performed shall happily fall short of that which your Lordships in this time haue expected and our selues wee acknowledge hoped wee haue made collection of the sundry difficulties and oppositions that we haue incountred since the first newes of these Spaniards discouery vpon this Coast to the end it might appeare vnto your Lordships plainely by the view thereof as wee are confident it will that nothing hath beene wanting in our endeuours to bring this worke to the desired conclusion but that a more slow proceeding hath beene inauoydably occasioned by the slow and vntimely comming to vs of those meanes and prouisions without which it is impossible to be effectually actiue and the arising of new accidents and impediments in the meane time which made our worke more difficult and therefore will not we hope be imputed any fault of ours Since the arriuall of the Queenes shippes the forces altillery and other prouisions out of England we haue so annoied this Towne with battery in all parts thereof as the breach was almost assaultable and the Houses in the Towne much beaten downe to the great weakening of the defendants in so much as we were not without hope to be offered it by composition or within a little more time to haue entered it by force though that was held a course of much hazard and losse in regard they within are very strong in bodies of men which we know to be most certaine The Spaniard finding how hardly he was laid to importuned Tyrone and Odonnell with their forces to come to releeue him they both are accordingly come and encamped not farre from the Towne And now one thousand more Spaniards are arriued at Castle Hauen with great store of munition artillery and report that a greater force is comming after which doth so bewitch this people as we make accompt all the Countrey will now goe out as most of them haue done already as in our former letters we signified that we feared Odonnels forces are said to be foure thousand and to be ioined with the Spaniards that landed at Castle Hauen and Tyrones as we heare generally to be as many more and since his passage through the Countrey hither Tyrrell with many other Lemster Rebels as it is said are ioined with him and comming also hither By these meanes wee are induced to leaue our battery for a time and to strengthen our Campes that we may be able to indure all their sury as wee hope we shall and keepe the Towne still be sieged and so inuested as wee are not out of hope in the end to carry it notwithstanding all that they can doe Yet since it is now most apparent that the King of Spaine meanes to make this place the seate of the Warre not onely for the gaining of this Kingdome but from time to time to push for England if he should get this for so some that we haue taken and examined doe confesse and that the whole strength of the Irish are drawne and drawing hither to set vp their rest to get that liberty as they call it that they haue so long sought for We must earnestly intreat your Lordships to supply vs and that speedily of all things necessary for so great a Warre as this is like to be We hold it a matter of necessity that foure thousand foote more be sent vs presently without staying one for another to come together but as they can be leuied and shipped away and we desire good choice may be made both of the Men and Armes for in both the last were much defectiue those vnder Captaines were but ill bodies of men and the supplies had very ill armes and weapons Wee conceiue it will be fittest for the seruice that I the Deputy haue liberty to put so many of them vnder Captaines as cannot at the first bee vsed for supplies for though our chiefe meaning is to fill vp the bands already here if so many be wanting at their comming hither that her Maiesty may not vnnecessarily be charged with new bands when the old be not full but much deficient yet a great part of our companies being extreame sicke through the exceeding misery of this Winters siege so as at this present there is but one third part of the last men that came ouer seruiceable and able to doe duties whereof happily a great part may recouer it cannot therefore be determined vntill they be here what number will bee necessary for supplies and what companies fit to bee raised for that must grow out of a view here of such as continue still sicke or are growne deficient by death or running away whereof of late there are very many notwithstanding the seuere courses we haue taken by executing some for a terrour to the rest by making Proclamations vpon paine of death that none should depart the campe without licence by giuing direction to the Port Townes that they should be staied and apprehended and lastly by sending speciall men to Corke Yoghall Waterford and Wexford to see the same duly put in execution for which purpose they haue commission for martiall law all which is well knowne to euery priuate man in the campe and yet they steale away daily in such numbers as besides those that by deuises doe get passages there are at this present taken betweene this and Waterford at the least two hundred ready to be returned though we confesse the misery they indure is such as iustly deserueth some compassion for diuers times some are found dead standing centinell or being vpon their guard that when they went thither were very well and lusty so grieuous is a Winters siege in such a Countrey For the sicke and hurt men we haue taken the best course we can deuise for at Corke we haue prouided a guesthouse for them where they are most carefully looked vnto and haue their lendings deliuered in money to buy them what the market doth affoord with an
further to command me by his letters signed with his Royall hands to cherish his good subiects and to suppresse the Rebellious the which difference of good and rebellions I am no otherwise to distinguish in you but by that obedience which I haue required and doe now require of you to his Maiesties Lawes and Royall pleasure And as in my duty to God and my King I should reioice to finde you in the number of those that I am bound to cherish and preserue So should I bee heartily sorry to finde you such as I must bee forced to correct or to ruine And although it be none of my purposes to enter into your consciences yet if the effects of your consciences be to disturbe the peace of this Kingdome to violate the Lawes thereof and by force to set vp your owne Religion It is my duty to vse the Kings power to suppresse such insolencies and therefore my purpose is to repaire my selfe to the Kings Citie whereof you are one of his Magistrates to see his peace and obedience maintained the which if both I and you and that Corporation doe not as our duty is intend we haue a King that is not onely able to call vs his poore seruants to an account but to reuenge the wrongs of the greatest Monarch of the World The same day his Lordship writ to the Maior of Corke this following letter AFter my heartie commendations I haue receiued two letters from you the one not signed with any hand the other signed by you the Maior and two of your Brethren and for the first concerning the stay you haue made of the Kings munition and Victuals I maruell greatly at your presumption to limit and take account what proportions the Commissioners authorised by his Maiesty thinke good to issue for his seruice and wish you in matters of so great consequence to be well aduised not doing any thing rashly nor consulting or deliberating after your fancies of things not belonging any way to your consideration but submitting your owne iudgements to be ruled by those placed in authoritie ouer you I meane Sir Charles Wilmot and Sir George Thorneton whose Commissions to gouerne that Prouince I haue lately by order from his Maiestie renewed For the answere of your second letter I referre my selfe to those I sent you by Master Mead which I thinke ere this time are come to your hands and as by them you shall more particularly perceiue so I assure you that I expect better satisfaction from you for the late insolent disorders committed or permitted by you in that Citie then by these I haue receiued charging you againe as formerly to desist from the violating of his Maiesties Lawes by publike celebration of the Masse set vp of your owne fancies without superiour authoritie In which if I finde you not conformable and obedient to my directions I must conceiue of your loyaltie and affection to his Maiesties seruice as I find by the effects testified in your publike actions and bee forced to take more seuere notice thereof then I willingly would in regard of the good opinion I haue heretofore had of your proceedings And for that point in your last letter touching the Fort of Halebolin whereof you desire to haue the keeping to the Kings vse I will deale plainely with you that since I find you so little able to gouerne the inhabitants of your Towne in due obedience to his Maiestie and his Lawes and so easily seduced by your Priests and Friers to the preiudice thereof and the hazard of your selues and haue alwaies found by experience the true integritie and forward resolution of the Kings souldiers to aduance his seruice till I shall see a better reformation of these your proceedings I must needes thinke them fitter then you to haue places of so great trust committed to their guard and custodie The same day his Lordship vnderstood by letters from the Maior of Corke that the Kings forces lying neere the Towne and their armed men of the Citie had proceeded to acts of hostilitie some hauing beene killed on both sides whereof they craued reliefe from his Lordship making their contumacy against the Commissioners authoritie a priuate quarrell to the person of one of them as being their enemie and seeking their vtter ruine Likewise the Bishop of Corke aduertised that a most seditious sermon was preached at Corke by a Popish Priest teaching that he could not be a lawfull King who was not placed by the Pope and sworne to maintaine the Roman Religion Also that one of his men going to the Port of the Towne was hurt by one of the guard who wished he had the Traytor his Master there with threats of death to him Lastly that the Citizens by resolution taken in a publike Counsell with their Priests had written to all the Townes and Cities to assist them in the defence of the Catholike faith and had not onely staied the Kings munition but laid it vp in their owne store-houses and imprisoned the clarke who kept it The third of May his Lordship being on the way towards Mounster was aduertised from Iustice Synot that the Citizens of Wexford had conformed themselues to his Lordships pleasure had redeliuered the Churches to the hands of the English Ministers The fourth of May his Lordship in camped at Gracedea neere the Citie of Waterford and summoned the Maior and his brethren to open their Ports and to receiue him and the Kings Forces The same day his Lordship wrote this following letter to the Maior of Corke For the dispatch of your messenger and not to omit any thing that heth in mee to make you vnderstand your dutifull obedience to his Maiesty and the great errors and insolent demenor you haue of selfe will or malice entred into I am content to write vnto you tho I know not well in what sort to write for by your courses I cannot take you for subiects and out of my desire to interpret your actions to the best I could wish not to haue cause to repute you Rebels To deale plainely with you for any thing that you selues informe or I can otherwise vnderstand I see not that Sir Charles Willmot hath done but as in his duty hee was tied to doe but I am presently drawing downe to the City of Corke and hauing reserued one care for any your iust complaints will iudge of your proceedings as I shall finde them I haue let you vnderstand my pleasure by my letters one sent by Master Meade which if hee haue not deliuered he is more to blame and I assure my selfe some of them came to your hands and in all I haue charged you vpon your alleagance as againe by these I do to desist from publike breach of his Maiesties Lawes in the celebration of the Masse prohibited by the same and to yeeld due obedience to his Magistrates and especially vpon your extreamest perils not to presume to make any stay of his Maiesties victualls and munition left vpon