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ID	Title	Author	Corrected Date of Publication (TCP Date of Publication)	STC	Words	Pages
A49620	The voyage of Italy, or, A compleat journey through Italy in two parts : with the characters of the people, and the description of the chief towns, churches, monasteries, tombs, libraries, pallaces, villas, gardens, pictures, statues, and antiquities : as also of the interest, government, riches, force, &c. of all the princes : with instructions concerning travel / by Richard Lassels, Gent. who travelled through Italy five times as tutor to several of the English nobility and gentry ; never before extant.	Lassels, Richard, 1603?-1668.; S. W. (Simon Wilson)	1670 (1670)	Wing L465; ESTC R2418	265,097	737

taken in this battle are set round about the Church in one of the flags ouer the dore I found Crosse Keys Cardinals Caps Miters and Priests corned caps all turned topsy turuy with this single motto Extirpentor Here are very neat Chappels especially that on the left hand where is seen the representation of S. Teresa wounded by a Seraphin It s an admiraole peece of Beruini In the Conuent you see painted in a Sala the battle of Prague and in the Sacristy a sepulcher of our Sauiour all of Iuory extraordinarily well wrought Before the dore of the forsayd Church stands the great Fountaine called Fontana Felice where the Aqueduct of Sixtus Quintus who before his assumption to Ecclesiastical dignities was called in his Monastery ●ra Felice disburdeneth it self into a great stone basin and from thene is carryed into diuers parts of the towne From hence I went to the garden of Montalto which is hard by This is one of the best gardens in Rome and therefore deserues well to be seen At your entrance into it you see a round table of a blewish stone vpon which the armes of the house of Montalto are engrauen at which while you gaze curiously and neare at hand the gardiner by pressing his foot vpon a low iron pump vnder the table presseth out water on all sides of that round table and well-cometh the strangers that come to see his garden Then mounting into the little Pallace neare that dore I saw diuers good pictures and statues of the house of Montalto and others There also I saw a wooden organ pipes and all and yet of no vngreatfull sound There also I saw the picture of Dauid killing Goliath It turnes vpon a frame and shews you both the foreside of those combatans and their backsides two which other pictures do not Here are curious Vrnes the true busto of sixtus V. a tabernacle of richstones There is a pictures in stones of seueral colours which held one way represents nothing but a bunch of hearbs but held vp an other way it represents a mans head and face in fine here is in this little pallace a neat Library in a coole roome ouer the dore of which on the in side are written these words Medicina animi as if Libraries were nothing but phisick gardens for the minde Descending againe into the garden I saw store of wetting sports and water workes most curiously cōtriueed most stately walkes From hence we went to the Carthusians Church which is hard by This Church and Monastery are built vpon the ruines of the Bathes of Diocletian For this cruel Emperor with his associat Maximian condemned forty thousand Christians to worke in this building for the space of fifteen yeares together and afterwards condemned many thousands of them to death for their religion Thus men work for Tyrants But such is the wonderfull prouidence of God Churches of Christians now stand where Christians were condemned to death and torments The blood of these martyrs was but the seed of Christians and when Diocletian condemned Christians to worke here me thinks he did but bid them go lay the foundation of a Monastery for Carthusians and of a Church for the worship of that God he so much persecuted Hauing seen this Church and Monastery I went to see the Popes Graneries vast buildings two stories high and alwayes full of wheat for the present vse of the whole city A world of officers and ouerseers belong to these Graneries and are alwayes turning ouer and keeping the vast heapes of wheat from spoyling and corrupting By sticking vp canes in the heapes of wheat they can tell smelling at the ends of these canes whether the wheat begin to moisten and corrupt or no and accordingly giue order either to turne it and ayre it or presently to giue it out to the bakers These Graneries were also built vpon the ruines of Diocletians Baths From these Graneries I went to the towne Gate not farre off called Porta Pia and from thence streight along for a good mile to S. Agneses Church Vnder the high Altar reposeth the body of that tender Virgin who being as innocent as her name suffered martyrdome at thirteen and triumphed ouer the world before she could know it Close by stands the Church of S. Constantia an other holy primitiue Virgin Here I saw the famous Tombe commonly called Bacchus his Tombe but falsely seing it was the Tombe of S. Constantia It s a vast arca or Chest of one Porphyrie stone aboue half a foote thick and six foot long It s all cut on the outside with a basso rilieuo in a most admirable manner From hence crossing ouer the fields I went to Borghesis Villa and garden which are a little half mile from the towne This is the greatest Villa that 's about Rome For here you haue store of walkes both open and close fish ponds vast cages for birds thickets of trees store of fontaines a park of deere a world of fruit trees statues of all sizes banqueting places Grottas wetting sports and a stately pallace adorned with so many rare statues and pictures that their names make a booke in octauo which I referre you to As for the pallace it selfe its compassed on both sides by a fair demicircle of statues which stand before the two dores like old Penates and Lares The wall of the house is ouercrusted with a world of Anticallie or old marble peeces of antiquity as that of Curtius spurring into the Vorago that of Europa hurryed away by Iupiter becomne a Bull with a world of such like fables Entring into the house I saw diuers roomes full of curiosityes In the great hall stands the statue of Diana in Oriental Alabaster which was once à Deity adored by Augustus Caesar Here also hang two great pictures the one representing a Caualcata when the Pope goeth abroad in ceremony the other a Caualcata when the Great Turke goeth abroad in pompe 2. In an other roome stands the statue of one of the famous gladiators anciently who fought alone against twenty others and being wounded to death seems to threaten with his lookes all his beholders It s terribly well made 3. In one of the chambers aboue is the head in profile of Alexander the Great cut in marble 4. In an other roome below I saw the Statue of Seneca bleeding to death It s of a black stone like Ieat then which nothing can be blacker but the crimes of Nero the Magistricide who put this rare man his master to death 5. The statue also of Daphne and Apollo in alabaster Apollo running after Daphne and she stiffening into a tree being ouer taken her fingers shooting into branches and her toes into rootes are admirably well done It must be Berninis worke 6. The statue also of Aeneas carryeing his old Father Anchises vpon his back out of burning Troye The yong man is brawny and strong the old man is made leane and weake as also the yong

countryes with other rich stones all aboue marble and all so neatly polished and shining that the Art here exceeds the materials This Chappel is round and round about are to by fixed within the walls as high as a man can reach the Tombes of all the Great Dukes of Florence in a most gallant manner and of most exquisit polished stones with a great cushen of some richer stone and a Ducal crowne of pretious stones reposeing vpon that cushen Ouer these Tombes the Statues of all the Great ●ukes at full length and in their Ducal habits all of brasse guilt are to be placed in Niches round about the Chappel The roof is to Vaulted all ouer with an ouercrusting of Lapis Lazuli a blew pretious stone with vaines of gold in it which will make it looke like heauen it self Between each tombe are inlayd in the walls the armes or Scutchions of the seueral townes of the Great Dukes dominions all blazoned according to their seueral colours in herauldry by seueral pretious stones which compose them and these are not made in little but are fair great Scutchions made purposely of a larg sise for to fill vp the voyd places between the Tombes The townes are these Florence Siena Pisa Liuorno Volterra Arezzo Pistoia Cortona Monte Pulciano c. which contributed I suppose something each of them to this costly Fabrick in fine this Chappel is so rich within with its owne shining bare walls that it scorns all hangings painting guilding mosaick work and such like helpers off of bare walls because it can find nothing richer and hansomer then its owne pretious walls It s now aboue threescore years since it was begun and there are ordinarily threescore men at work dayly here and yet ther 's onely the Tombe of Ferdinand the Second perfectly finished The very Cushen which lyeth vpon his Tombe cost threescore thousand crownes by which you may gesse at the rest indeed these stately Tombes make almost death it self looke louely and dead mens ashes grow proud againe As for the Altar and Tabernacle of this Chappel I will speak of them by and by when I describe the Gallery of the Great Duke where they are kept till the Chappel be finished 2. The Church of S. Laurence which belongs to this Chappel or rather to which this chappel belongs is a very hansom church designed by Brunellischi himself The things that grace this church are the neat double row of round pillars which hold vp the roof of this Fabrick The picture ouer the Quire painted in the roof representing the genaral judgement It s a bold peece and of Pontorno The two Brazen pulpits wrought into hystorys by rare Donatello The curious designed picture of S. Anne and our Blessed Lady in chiaro e oscuro by Fra Bartolomeo commonly called Del Frate is so wel a designed peece that a Duke of Mantua haueing seen it offered to buy it at any rate but was refused The new Sacristy made to serue the fine Chappel described aboue deserues to be carefully visited because of the bodyes of the Princes of the Family of Medices which are depositated here till the Chappel mentioned aboue be finished In this new Sacristy also are seen the four statues made by Michael Angelo representing The Day the Night Aurora and the Euening the four parts which compose Time by which all men are brought to their Graues That which represents Night is a rare statue and hugely cryed vp by all Sculptors and Virtuosi See also in the Wall of the old Sacristy the neat Tombe of Iohn and Peter Medices sonns of Cosmus surnamed Pater Patriae It s the worke of Andrea Varochio In the midst of this Church before the High Altar lyes buryed Cosmus Pater Patriae the Rayser of the Medicean family In the Cloister ioyning to this Church is erected the Statue of Paulus Iouius the Historian and neare to this statue you mount vp a pair of stairs to the rare Library of Manuscripts called Bibliotheca Laurentiana the Catalogue of whose bookes is printed at Amsterdame an 1622 in octauo 3. The Gallery of the old Pallace This is that Gallery so famous and so frequently Visited by all Strangers At your entrance into this Gallery you see a Vast long roome made like an L on the left hand of this Gallery there runns a perpetual glasse window on the other side are set a row of pictures in great of those of the Medicean Family vnder the windowes and also vnder the sayd Pictures stand a row of curious Marble statues ancient ones all and of prime hands Ouer the sayd windowes and Pictures runns a close row of lesse Pictures representing to the life the most famous men of later times for learning and Armes the soldiers being on the right hand and the schollers on the left The statues aforesayd are well nigh a hundred in all but all rare ones Some whereof I yet remember and they are these That of Leda of Diana of Bacchus of Hercules of the Gladiator standing on his gard of Scipio Africanus in brasse shewing the ancient habit and dresse of the old Romans farre different from our modes that of a little yong youth in brasse with his sword in his hand that of a little boy sleeping vpon a touchstone The head of Cicero in marble that of Seneca the Head of Michael Angelo Bonarota in brasse of his owne hand makeing in fine the head of Brutus one of Caesars murderers It was begun in marble by Michael Angelo but informedly and so left by him If you will know the reason why he finished it not read the distick written in brasse vnder this head by the sayd sculptor himself thus M. Dum Bruti effigiem Sculptor A. de marmore ducit B. In mentem sceleris Venit F. abstinuit The four corner letters signifying that Michael Angelus Bonarota Fecit Among the pictures I tooke particular notice of these Souldiers of Hannibal that frighted Rome of Scipio that tooke Carthage and vanquished Hannibal of Pyrrhus that made the Romans glad to make peace with him of Scanderbeg that made the Great Turk afrayd to fight with him of Venerius that helpt to winn the battle of Lepento of Alexander Farnese that neuer lost battle of Cortesius that found out new countryes of Magellanus that found out new Seas of Andrea D'Oria who beat the French by Sea of Gaston de Foix who had beat the Spaniards by land if he had but knowne how to vse his Victory of the Duke of Alua who onely lamented deying that he had neuer fought a pitchd battle with the Turks of Anne de Montmorency who dyeing was glad to dye in a pitchd batle against the Hugonots of Eccelino the Paduan Tyrant of whom no man can Speak any good of Castrucio of whom no man can speake any ill with a world of other braue Heros with whose true lookes I was very glad to be acquainted Among the pictures of the learned men

Marij the Gregostasis the Curia Hostilia the Golden House of Nero the Theater of Pompey of which Tertullian sayth Pompeius Magnus solo suo theatro minor the Forum Neruae the Theater of Statilius Taurus the Septizonium Seueri the Tower of Mecenas the Hippodromus the House of Gordianus the Circus Flaminius the Circus Maximus the Atrium Libertatis Scipios house the Triumphal Arch of Augustus Caesar of Domitian and a world of other such rare buildings whereby the Romans thought to haue eternized their memories if you aske for these things in bookes you shal finde their names onely if you looke for them now in Rome you shall finde no markes at all of them which makes me cry out with Petrark Crede mihi aliis quam lapideis fundamentis eget gloria vt sit mansura beleeue me true permanent glorie stands in need of other foundations then those of stone Hence Ianus Vitalis an ingenious Italian Poet hauing obserued that all the old massiue buildings of Rome are moultered away and that Fluide Tyber onely remains still cryes out with this sweet moral Disce hinc quid possit fortuna immota labascunt Et quae perpetuo sunt fluitura manent But I cannot leaue Rome without taking notice of the Deuotion Musick Ceremonies shows Gouerment and the inhabitants of this place of each of which I will giue a touch both for my Trauelers sake and my Readers And first for the Deuotion of Rome I found it to be very great and real in those places where the Quarante Hore and Stations are kept For all the yeare long the Quarante Hore go from one Church to an other through all the Churches of Rome and there you shall alwayes see a world of deuout people praying and meditating and hearing the sermons and giuing of almes and all this with that profund respect and silence with that assiduity and concourse with that feruour and zeale that you need not aske where the station is but onely obserue where you see the people flocking so fast in the morneing and where the poore make the greatest hedge and lane In other Churches of Rome vpon their festiual dayes which happen almost euery day in one place or other they haue the best musick can begot and though this seems to draw mens eares to the Church rather then their hearts yet when I remember what eleuated thoughts it breeds in the minde and how innocently it detaines men from doing worse I cannot but place Church musick among the acts of deuotion Now as for this musick it is the best in the world and in the best kinde which is voyces For my part hauing read in a learned Author that the hateing of musick is a signe of a soul quite out of tune and not right strung for predestination and that the Scythian king who held the neighing of his horse to be farre better musick then the pipe of famous Thimotheus was held for an asse himself I thought it both comely and lawfull to loue musick being in a place where the best musick was I frequented it often with singular satisfaction Now the best musick I heard was the musick of the Popes Chappel consisting of pure voyces without any organ or other instruments euery singer here kowing his part so well that they seem all to be masters of musick Then the musick of the Chies● Noua of S. Apollinaris vpon S. Cecilyes day in the Church of that Saint the Patronesse of singers of the Oratory of S. Marcello euery Friday in Lent of the Iesuits dureing the Quaerante hore in Shroftide of euery good Church of Nunns vpon their patrons day especially that of the Nunns of Campo Marzo where I heard often Fonseca sing sorarely well that she seemed to me to cheere vp much the Church in its combats to make the Church Militant either looke like the Church Triumphant or long for it In a word whosoeuer loues musick and hears but once this of Rome thinks he hath made a saueing iourney to Rome and is well payed for all his paynes of comeing so farre Haueing giuen my eares many a break-fast vpon the musick I gaue my eyes many a Collation vpon the Ceremonies of Rome which were chiefly these The Ceremony of the Popes opening of the Porta Santa of S. Peters Church in the Iubily yeare The Ceremonies of the Popes Chappel when he assists there especialy vpon Candlemasse day Palmesunday Mandy Thursday c The Ceremony of the Popes washing of thirteen pilgrims feet of his singing masse publickly in S. Peters Church vpon S. Peters day and other great dayes the Ceremony of Beatifyeing and of Canonizeing of Saints the Ceremony of his creating new Cardinals and giuing them their capp in publick Consistory the Ceremonie of the Masse sung in Greek and according to the Greek rites in the Church of the Greek Seminary vpon the Feast of the Epiphany and S. Athanasius his day the Ceremony of baptizeing the Iews with a world of others One ceremony I was not vnwilling to misse in my fiue seueral voyages because it alwayes implies the death of a Spiritual Father I meane the Ceremony of a Sede Vacante and of all the bad complimen●s that euer I heard made I like none so ill as that of a noble man of Germany who being asked by Pope Innocent the X whether he had seen all the Ceremonies of Rome answered that he had seen all but a Sed● Vacante as if he had sayd Holy Father I haue seen all the fine sights of Rome but your death A horrible Tramontane compliment which put euen the Pope himself to a smile As for the Showes I saw diuers both Sacred and Prophane As the wipping Processions in the Holy week The great Procession from S. Marcellos Oratory to S. Peters Church vpon Mandy Thursday in the Holy yeare The Spanish Procession in Piazza Nauona vpon Easter day in the morning in the Holy yeare The Procession of the Zitelle vpon our Ladyes day in Lent The Procession of the Priests of the Oratory vpon shrof-tuesday to the seauen Churches with fiue or six thousands persons following of them all whom they treat in an open field giuing euery one a couple of hard eggs and a slice of salsigia with bread and wine The seueral Caualcatas of the Pope and Cardinals The Spanish Caualcata vpon S. Peters Eue when the Spanish Embassador presents the purse of gold and the Gennet The Girandola and fire workes vpon S. Peters Eue and diuers such like sacred triumphs For the Prophane Showes I saw the solemne Entryes of Embassadors especially those of Obedience wh●ere each Princes Embassador striue to out vye the other and by excessiue expences make their masters greatness appeare aboue that of others Their Caualcatas to Court vpon their publick audience their reception in a publick Consistory their audience of Leaue are all stately Then the curious Opere or musical Drammata recited with such admirable art and set