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A65019 The travels of Sig. Pietro della Valle, a noble Roman, into East-India and Arabia Deserta in which, the several countries, together with the customs, manners, traffique, and rites both religious and civil, of those oriental princes and nations, are faithfully described, in familiar letters to his friend Signior Mario Schipano : whereunto is added a relation of Sir Thomas Roe's Voyage into the East-Indies.; Viaggi. Parte 3. English Della Valle, Pietro, 1586-1652.; Havers, G. (George); Roe, Thomas, Sir, 1581?-1644.; Terry, Edward, 1590-1660. Relation of Sir Thomas Roe's voyage. 1665 (1665) Wing V48; ESTC R10032 493,750 487

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contrivances of Charriots Ships Gallies Pageants Heavens Hells Mountains and Clouds I forbear to speak because I have the printed Relation by me On the eighteenth of February The Vice-Roy being indispos'd the proceedings were superseded But in the three following dayes by two Acts a day the whole Tragedy was rehearsed It comprehended not onely the whole Life but also the Death of San Francesco Sciavier the transportation of his Body to Goa his ascension into Heaven and lastly his Canonization On the seventh of the same moneth Mass was sung in the Colledge of San Paolo Nouvo and a predication made by F. Flaminio Calò an Italian upon the Beatification of the Blessed Luigi Gonzaga who was also a Father of the Society In the Evening the Portugals of quality passed about the streets in a Maskerade accompanyed with Chariots and Musick about twelve of us went out of the House of Sig Antonio Baraccio all clothed in the same Livery which I took care to get made according to my Phansie and I ordered it after the fashion of the ancient Roman Warriers just as the ancient Emperours use to be pictur'd the colours were Carnation and White with several Impresses on the breast every one after his own Phansie it appear'd very well by night and was the best and greatest Body of the whole Maskerade I bore for my Impress a Blaze of Flames with this Italian Word of Tasso Men dolci si ma non men calde al core Which Impress I have been wont to use frequently since the death of my Wife Sitti Maani the Work of my clothes was wholly together Flames onely distinguished here and there with Tears which shewed my grief February the eighteenth In the Morning solemn Mass was sung and a Sermon made upon the Canonization of the Saints in San Paolo Vecchio In the Afternoon Lists and a Ring being prepared before the Church of Giesù many great Portugal Gentlemen richly clothed came as to run Carreers both at the one and the other giving Divertisement to the Ladies who stood beholding them on Balconies and Scaffolds The like they did afterwards in the street of San Paolo Vecchio February the nineteenth A very solemn Procession was made from San Paolo Vecchio to Giesù through the principal streets of the City which Procession exceeded all the rest in number of Pageants Chariots and Ships and other Engins filled with people who represented several things and good Musick accompanyed with several Dances on Foot and many other brave devices Of all which things I speak not because I have a printed Relation thereof by me In the end of the Procession was carried by many of the Fathers in their Copes the Body of San Francesco Sciavier inclos'd in a fair and rich Silver Coffin with a Silver Canopie over it made very gallant and the Effigies of the Saint behind Then came a great Standard with the pourtraytures of the Saints carry'd likewise by some of the Fathers and after that all the Crosses of their Parishes of Salsette and onely one company of the Fryers of Saint Francis Of the other Religions that are in Goa none appear'd here because they said they would not go in the Processions of the Jesuits since the Jesuits went not in those of others With this Procession which ended about noon ended also the solemnities for the abovesaid Canonizations February the twenty fifth This day being the first Sunday of Lent this year the Augustine Fathers according to custom made a solemn Procession which they call de i Passi in reference to the steps which our Lord made in his Passion being carry'd to several places They carry'd in Procession a Christ with the Cross on his shoulders and many went along disciplining themselves being cloth'd with white sack-cloth gallant and handsome very gravely according to the humor of the Nation In several places of the City certain Altars were plac'd where the Procession stood still and after some time spent in singing the Christ turn'd backwards representing that passage Conversus ad Filias Ierusalem dixit illis Nolite flere super me c. At which turning of the sacred Image the people who were very numerous and fill'd the whole streets lamented and utter'd very great cryes of Devotion At length the Procession being come to the Church Della Gratiae whereit ended after the Augustine Nunns whose Covent stands near that of the Fryers in the same Piazza had sung a while an Image of del volto Santo of our Lord's Countenance like that at Rome was shown to the people gather'd together in the said Piazza from a window of one of the Bell-turrets which are on either side the front of the said Church and so the Solemnity ended But the above-mention'd Altars in the streets are every Fryday during Lent adorn'd in the same manner and visited by the people every day and also many hours of the night just as the Church of Saint Peter at Rome is visited every Fryday of March and they call this visiting Corror os Passos that is going about and visiting the steps of our Lord which serves the people during this time of Lent no less for devotion then for pastime March the first There was also another Procession in Goa of the Disciplinanti which I went not to see the like is made every Fryday during all Lent and therefore I shall not stand to describe it I believe there is no City in the world where there are more Processions made then in Goa all the year long and the reason is because the Religious are numerous and much more then the City needs they are also of great authority and very rich and the People being naturally idle and addicted to Shews neglecting other Cares of more weight and perhaps more profitable to the Publick readily imploy themselves in these matters which however good as sacred and parts of divine worship yet in such a City as this which borders upon Enemies and is the Metropolis of a Kingdom lying in the midst of Barbarians and so alwayes at Warr and where nothing else should be minded but Arms and Fleets seem according to worldly Policy unprofitable and too frequent as also so great a number of Religious and Ecclesiastical persons is burdensome to the State and prejudicial to the Militia In the Evening of every Fryday of Lent there is a Sermon upon the Passion in the Church of Giesù and so likewise in other Churches but upon other dayes and hours At the end of these Sermons certain Tabernacles are open'd and divers figures representing some passages of the Passion according to the subject of the Sermon are with lighted Tapers shew'd to the People as one day that of the Ecce Homo another day Our Lord with the Cross upon his shoulders and the last day the Crucifix and so every day one thing sutable to the purpose Oftentimes they make these figures move and turn as they made the Robe fall off from the Ecce Homo and discover the
War large and handsome A Market was kept this day in Saghèr as 't is the custom every Sunday and at Ikkeri every Fryday There was a great concourse of people but nothing to sell besides necessaries for food and clothing after their manner The way between Ikkeri and Saghèr is very handsome plain broad almost totally direct here and there beset with great and thick Trees which make a shadow and a delightful verdure As we return'd home at night we met a Woman in the City of Ikkeri who her Husband being dead was resolv'd to burn her self as 't is the custom with many Indian Women She rod on Horse-back about the City with open face holding a Looking-glasse in one hand and a Lemon in the other I know not for what purpose and beholding her self in the Glass with a lamentable tone sufficiently pittiful to hear went along I know not whither speaking or singing certain words which I understood not but they told me they were a kind of Farewell to the World and her self and indeed being utter'd with that passionateness which the Case requir'd and might produce they mov'd pity in all that heard them even in us who understood not the Language She was follow'd by many other Women and Men on foot who perhaps were her Relations they carry'd a great Umbrella over her as all Persons of quality in India are wont to have thereby to keep off the Sun whose heat is hurtful and troublesome Before her certain Drums were sounded whose noise she never ceas'd to accompany with her sad Ditties or Songs yet with a calm and constant Countenance without tears evidencing more grief for her Husband's death then her own and more desire to go to him in the other world than regret for her own departure out of this A Custom indeed cruel and barbarous but withall of great generosity and virtue in such Women and therefore worthy of no small praise They said she was to pass in this manner about the City I know not how many dayes at the end of which she was to go out of the City and be burnt with more company and solemnity If I can know when it will be I will not fail to go to see her and by my presence honor her Funeral with that compassionate affection which so great Conjugal Fidelity and Love seems to me to deserve November the thirteenth I took the Altitude of the Sun at Ikkeri and found it 31. gr 40′ The Sun was now in the 20th degree of Scorpio and declin'd Southwards 17. gr 45′ 40″ which taken from 31. gr 40′ leave 13. gr 54′ 20″ The former time I found Ikkeri to be in 13. gr 30 31″ but now I found it to be in 13. gr 54′ 20″ between which there is onely the difference of 23′ 43″ which is a small matter And therefore I account my observation right for the small variation between the two times is no great matter in regard the declination of the Sun not being punctually known may cause the difference At night walking in the City I saw in the Piazza of the great Temple which I understood was dedicated to an Idol call'd Agore Scuarà who they say is the same with Mahadeù although they represent him not in the same shape with that I saw of Mahadeù in Cambaia but in the shape of a Man with but one Head and Face and sixteen Arms on each side in all thirty two which is not strange since our Antients call'd many of their Idols by names sufficiently different and pourtray'd them in several shapes and wherein also I understood there was an Idol of Parveti who is the Wife of Mahadeù though the Temple be not dedicated to her I saw I say in the Piazza one of their Fryers or Giangami clad all in white sitting in an handsome Palanchino with two great white Umbrellaes held over him one on each side which two were for the more gravity and a Horse led behind being follow'd by a great train of other Giangami clad in their ordinary habits Before the Palanchino march'd a numerous company of Souldiers and other people many Drums and Fifes two strait long Trumpets and such brass Timbrels as are us'd in Persia Bells and divers other Instruments which sounded as loud as possible and amongst them was a troop of Dancing-women adorn'd with Girdles Rings upon their Legs Neck-laces and other ornaments of Gold and with certain Pectorals or Breast-plates almost round in the fashion of a Shield and butting out with a sharp ridg before embroyder'd with Gold and stuck either with Jewels or some such things which reflected the Sun-beams with marvellous splendor as to the rest of their bodies they were uncover'd without any Veil or Head-tire When they came to the Piazza the Palanchino stood still and the multitude having made a ring the Dancing-women fell to dance after their manner which was much like the Moris-dance of Italy onely the Dancers sung as they danc'd which seem'd much better One of them who perhaps was the Mistress of the rest danc'd alone by her self with extravagant and high jumpings but alwayes looking towards the Palanchino Sometimes she cowr'd down with her hanches almost to the ground sometimes leaping up she struck them with her Feet backwards as Coelius Rhodiginus relates of the ancient dance call'd Bibasi continually singing and making several gestures with her Hands but after a barbarous manner and such as amongst us would not be thought handsome The Dance being ended the Palanchino with all the train went forward the Instruments continually playing before them I follow'd to see the end and found that they went into the chief street and so out of the City by the Gate which leads to Saghèr stopping in divers places of the street to act the same or the like dances over again and particularly in the Entrance of the said Gate where amongst many Trees and Indian Canes which make the City-Wall there is a small Piazza very eeven and shaded about like a Pastoral Scene and very handsome At last the Giangamo with his Palanchino and train enter'd into certain Gardens without the Gate where his House stood and after the last Dance he remain'd there and the rest went away They told me this Honor was done him because they had then cast water upon his Head and perform'd some other Ceremony equivalent to our ordaining one in Sacris or creating a Doctor As I was going along the streets to behold this Pomp I saw many persons come with much devotion to kiss the Feet of all those Giangamoes who on Foot follow'd the principal Giangamo who was in the Palanchino and because they were many and it took up much time to kiss the Feet of them all therefore when any one came to do it they stood still all in a rank to give him time and whilst such persons were kissing them and for more reverence touching their Feet with their Fore-heads these Giangamoes stood firm with a seeming
which lies on the left side of the River as you go against the stream Having landed and going towards the Bazàr to get a Lodging in some House we beheld the Queen coming alone in the same way without any other Woman on foot accompany'd onely with four or six foot-Souldiers before her all which were quite naked after their manner saving that they had a cloth over their shame and another like a sheet worn cross the shoulders like a belt each of them had a Sword in his hand or at most a Sword and Buckler there were also as many behind her of the same sort one of which carry'd over her a very ordinary Umbrella made of Palm-leavs Her Complexion was as black as that of à natural Aethiopian she was corpulent and gross but not heavy for she seem'd to walk nimbly enough her Age may be about forty years although the Portugals had describ'd her to me much elder She was cloth'd or rather girded at the waste with a plain piece of thick white Cotton and bare-foot which is the custom of the Indian-Gentile Women both high and low in the house and abroad and of Men too the most and the most ordinary go unshod some of the more grave wear Sandals or Slippers very few use whole Shoos covering all the Foot From the waste upwards the Queen was naked saving that she had a cloth ty'd round about her Head and hanging a little down upon her Breast and Shoulders In brief her aspect and habit represented rather a dirty Kitchin-wench or Laundress then a delicate and noble Queen whereupon I said within my self Behold by whom are routed in India the Armies of the King of Spain which in Europe is so great a matter Yet the Queen shew'd her quality much more in speaking then by her presence for her voice was very graceful in respect of her Person and she spoke like a prudent and judicious Woman They had told me that she had no teeth and therefore was wont to go with half her Face cover'd yet I could not discover any such defect in her either by my Eye or by my Ear and I rather believe that this covering the Mouth or half the Face as she sometimes doth is agreeable to the modest custom which I know to be common to almost all Women in the East I will not omit that though she were so corpulent as I have mention'd yet she seems not deform'd but I imagine she was handsome in her Youth and indeed the report is that she hath been a brave Lady though rather of a rough then a delicate handsomeness As soon as we saw her coming we stood still lay'd down our baggage upon the ground and went on one side to leave her the way to pass Which she taking notice of and of my strange habit presently ask'd Whether there was any among us that could speak the Language Whereupon my Brachman Narsù step'd forth and answer'd Yes and I after I had saluted her according to our manner went near to speak to her she standing still in the way with all her people to give us Audience She ask'd who I was being already inform'd as one of her Souldiers told me by a Portugal who was come about his businesses before me from Mangalòr to Manel that I was come thither to see her I caus'd my Interpreter to tell her that I was Un Cavaliero Ponentino A Gentleman of the West who came from very farr Countries and because other Europaeans than Portugals were not usually seen in her Dominions I caus'd her to be told that I was not a Portugal but a Roman specifying too that I was not of the Turks of Constantinople who in all the East are styl'd and known by the Name of Rumi but a Christian of Rome where is the See of the Pope who is the Head of the Christians That it was almost ten years since my first coming from home and wandring about the world having seen divers Countries and Courts of great Princes and that being mov'd by the fame of her worth which had long ago arriv'd at my Ears I was come into this place purposely to see her and offer her my service She ask'd What Countries and Courts of Princes I had seen I gave her a brief account of all and she hearing the Great Turk the Persian the Moghol and Venk-tapà Naieka nam'd ask'd What then I came to see in these Woods of hers Intimating that her State was not worth seeing after so many other great things as I said I had seen I reply'd to her that it was enough for me to see her Person which I knew to be of great worth for which purpose alone I had taken the pains to come thither and accounted the same very well imploy'd After some courteous words of thanks she ask'd me If any sickness or other disaster had hapned to me in so remote and strange Countries How I could have done being alone without any to take care of me a tender Affection and incident to the compassionate nature of Women I answer'd that in every place I went into I had God with me and that I trusted in him She ask'd me Whether I left my Country upon any disgust the death of any kindred or beloved person and therefore wander'd so about the world for in India and all the East some are wont to do so upon discontents either of Love or for the death of some dear persons or for other unfortunate accidents and if Gentiles they become Gioghies if Mahometans Dervises and Abdales all which are a sort of vagabonds or despisers of the world going almost naked onely with a skin upon their Shoulders and a sttaff in their Hands through divers Countries like our Pilgrims living upon Alms little caring what befalls them and leading a Life suitable to the bad disposition of their hearts I conceal'd my first misadventures and told the Queen that I left not my Country upon any such cause but onely out of a desire to see divers Countries and customs and to learn many things which are learnt by travelling the World men who had seen and convers'd with many several Nations being much esteem'd in our parts That indeed for some time since upon the death of my Wife whom I lov'd much though I were not in habit yet in mind I was more then a Gioghi and little car'd what could betide me in the World She ask'd me What my design was now and whither I directed my way I answer'd that I thought of returning to my Country if it should please God to give me life to arrive there Many other questions she ask'd which I do not now remember talking with me standing a good while to all which I answer'd the best I could At length she bid me go and lodg in some house and afterwards she would talk with me again at more convenience Whereupon I took my leave and she proceeded on her way and as I was afterwards told she went about
Ages from God That this Law thus delivered must needs be one Law in all things agreeing in it self And so did not the Law of Mahomet That this Law thus delivered was most conformable to right son And so was not the Law of Mahomet That Man fall'n from God by sin was not able to recover himself from that Fall and therefore it was necessary that there should be one more than a Man to do it for him and that that One could not be Mahomet That this One was Christ God as well as Man God to satisfie the Mahometans themselves confessing that Christ was the breath of God and Man to suffer death as he did That Christ the Son of God coming into the World about that great Work of satisfying Gods anger against Man for sin it was necessary that he should live a poor and laborious life here on Earth at which the Mahometans much stumble and not a life that was full of pomp and pleasure and delicacy That the Gospel of Christ and other holy books of Scripture which the Christians retain and walk by contain nothing in them that is corrupt and depraved But there is very much to be found in their Alcaron which is so That the great worth and worthiness shining in the Person of Christ was by far more excellent than any thing observable in Mahomet for they themselves confess that Christ lived without sin when Mahomet himself acknowledgeth that he had been a filthy person That the feigned foolish and ridiculous miracles which they say were done by Mahomet were nothing comparable to the Miracles done by Christ who as the Mahometans confess did greater Miracles than ever were done before or since him That there was a great deal of difference in the manner of promulgating the Gospel of Christ into the world and the introducing of the Laws of Mahomet That Christ hath purchased Heaven for all that believe in him and that Hell is prepared for all others that do not rely on him and on him alone for Salvation There were many more particulars besides these which that Ieronymo Xaveere laid down before the Mogol to ground his arguments on which that King heard patiently at several times during the space of one year and a half but at last he sen● him away back again to Goa honourably with some good gifts bestowed on him telling him as Felix did after he had reasoned before him that he would call for him again when he had a convenient time Acts 24. 25. Which time or season neither of them both ever found afterward These Particulars which I have here inserted with many more I might have added to them upon all which that Ieronymo Xaveere enlarged himself before the Mogol in his arguings before him were given unto me in Latine by Francisco Corsi another Jesuit resident at that Court while I was there and long before that time And further I have been there told by other people professing Christianity in that Empire that there was such a Dispute there held and for my part I do believe it For that Francisco Corsi he was a Florentine by birth aged about fifty years who if he were indeed what he seemed to be was a mamof a severe life yet of a fair and an affable disposition He lived at that Court as an Agent for the Portugals and had not only free access unto that King but also encouragement and ●elp by hifts which he sometimes bestowed on him When this Jesuit came first to be acquainted with my Lord Ambassadour he told him that they were both by profession Christians though there was a vast difference betwixt them in their professing of it And as he should not go about to reconcile the Embassadour to them So he told him that it would be labour in vain if he should attempt to reconcile him to us Only he desired that there might be a fair correspondency betwixt them but no disputes And further his desire was that those wide differences 'twixt the Church of Rome and us might not be made there to appear that Christ might not seem by those differences to be divided amongst men professing Christianity which might have been a very main Obstacle and hinderance unto his great Design and endeavour for which he was sent thither to convert people unto Christianity there Telling my Lord Embassadour further that he should be ready to do for him all good offices of love and service there and so he was After his first acquaintance he visited us often usually once a week And as those of that society in other parts of the world are very great intelligencers so was he there knowing all news which was stirring and might be had which he communicated unto us And he would tell us many stories besides one of which if true is very remarkable And it was thus There are a race of people in East India the men of which race have if he told us true their right legs extraordinary great and mishapen their left legs are like other mens Now he told us that they were the posterity of those who stamped St Thomas the Apostle to death come thither to preach the Gospel and that ever since the men of that race have and only they of that Nation that great deformity upon them Some few people I have there seen of whom this story is told but whether that deformity be like Geheza's leprosie hereditary and if so whether it fell upon that people upon the occasion before-named I am yet to learn The Jesuits in East India for he was not alone there have liberty to convert any they can work upon unto Christianity c. The Mogol hath thus far declared that it shall be lawful for any one perswaded so in conscience to become a Christian and that he should not by so doing lose his favour Upon which I have one thing here to insert which I had there by report yet I was bid to believe it and report it for a truth concerning a Gentleman of quality and a servant of the great Mogol who upon some conviction wrought upon him as they say would needs be Baptized and become a Christian. The King hearing of this Convert sent for him and at first with many cruel threats commanded him to renounce that his new profession the man replied that he was most willing to suffer any thing in that cause which the King could in 〈…〉 ct The Mogol then began to deal with him another way askking why he thought himself wiser then his Fore-fathers who lived and died Mahometans and further added many promises of riches and honour if he would return to his Mahometism he replied again as they say for I have all this by Tradition that he would not accept of any thing in the world so to do The Mogol wondring at his constancy told him that if he could have frighted or bought him out of his new profession he would have made him an example for all waverers but now