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A49620 The voyage of Italy, or, A compleat journey through Italy in two parts : with the characters of the people, and the description of the chief towns, churches, monasteries, tombs, libraries, pallaces, villas, gardens, pictures, statues, and antiquities : as also of the interest, government, riches, force, &c. of all the princes : with instructions concerning travel / by Richard Lassels, Gent. who travelled through Italy five times as tutor to several of the English nobility and gentry ; never before extant. Lassels, Richard, 1603?-1668.; S. W. (Simon Wilson) 1670 (1670) Wing L465; ESTC R2418 265,097 737

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the Iles of Corfu Cephalonia and Zante Candia or the I le of Creta belongs to them by due The kingdome of Cyprus also is pretended to by them and by it and Candy whose two crownes they shew vs in the Treasor Venice is stiled Serenissima The kingdome of Cyprus came to the Venetians by Katherine Cornaro who was made heire of it by her son the King thereof who dyed yong and with out yssue about the yeare 1438. The stoty is this Katherine was daughter of Marco Cornaro and neece of Andrew Cornaro two noblemen of Venice Andrew was sent Auditore Generale into the Kingdome of Cyprus in the time of Iames King of that Iland and helpt him to many thousand crownes where by he setled his tottering crowne One day as the King was talkeing familiarly with him he let fall whether by chance or designe a little picture in miniature of a Very hansome Lady The King curious to see it called for it ciuilly and viewing it well fell hugely in loue with the Original of it which Andrew assured him to be farre hansomer then the copie and withall added that if his Maiesty liked her she was his Neece and that therefore he offered her freely to him for his wife with all the money he had already lent him and a hundred thousand crownes more The King bit willingly at these two baits beauty and Money and was not quiet till he had marryed her Of her he had but one sonn whom dyeing he left under his mothers protection but he dyeing also not long after left his mother heire of the kingdome and she at her death left this crowne and kingdome to the Venetians by Will and Guift This whole history I saw painted in the Pallace of Cornaro by the hand of Paulo Veron●se As fo● the strong holds which the Venetians possesse in Italy they are these Crema Bergamo Brescia Pesch●●ra Chiosa and Palma Nuoua in Fruth This last is one of the best places in Europe Is hath nine royal bastions eighteen caualiers which command all the neighboring campagnia it hath di●ches of water about it thirty paces broad and twelue deep Its ramparts behinde the wall are high and couering and they are alwayes fringed with a hundred peéces of Cannon and ready to receiue six hundred more which are alwayes in its magazin ready upon all occasions And for men and armour as the great Arsenal in Venice hath alwayes armes in readyness for a hundred thousand men so this State being peopled with three millions of men would easily finde three or four hundred thousand men of seruice and a hundred Gallyes yet their ordinary militia is but of fourscore thousand foot and some 6000 Horse and about thirty Gallyes As for their Riches though their ordinary reuenues before these late warrs with the Turk exceeded not four millions yet now they spurre themselues and the country● vp to excessiue summs Few dye but they bequeath something to such a Christian seruice as this warre is Besides this the taxes are much augmented and seizures forfetures more narrowly looked into to help publick expences In fine besides the great trading which Venice driues Aleppo alone bringing in some yeares four millions of gold the Venetiant haue found out a Very compendious way to rayse in one quarter of an houre and by one deash of a pen fifty hundred thousand crownes to help themselues withall at a dead lift and incommodate no man This they did An 1646 when fifty rich familyes in Venice gaue to the State a hundred thousand crownes a peéce to be made noble Venetians The like course they took to rayse money about a hundred yeares ago when they were set vpon by most of the Princes of Europe at once As for their Religion its Roman Catholick and they haue neuer changed it since the begining of their Republick Hence M r. Raymond in his Mercurio Italico page 188. sayth truly that Venite hath this property aboue all other States that she is a Virgin and more from her first infancy Christian hauing neuer yet fell from her Principles either in Gouerment or Religion It began to be built the Very same yeare that S. Augustin dyed as Baronius obserues As for the Interest of this Republick they are now well with the Emperor not out with Spayne no● too secure of his Friendship kinde with the French as long as they keep out of Italy well affected to England and iust friends with the Pope Now for the particulars which I saw in Venice they were these 1. The men Themselues here who looked like men indeed and as a Philosopher anciently sayd that when he came from Corinth to Sparta he seemed to come from horses to men so me thought when I came from France to Venice I came from boyes to men For here I saw the hansomest the most sightly the most proper and graue men that ever I saw any where else They weare alwayes in the towne I speake of the noblemen a long black gowne a black cap knit with an edgeing of black wooll about it like a fringe an ancient and manly weare which makes them looke like Senators Their hair is generaly the best I euersaw any where these little caps not presing it downe as our hats do Perywigs are here forbid Vnder their long gownes which fly open before they haue hansome black sutes of rich stuffs with stockins and garters and spanith leather shoos neatly made In a word I neuer saw so many proper men together nor so wise as I saw dayly there walking vpon the Piazza of S. Mark I may boldly say that I saw there fiue hundred gentlemen walking together euery day euery one of which was able to play the Embassador in any Princes Court of Europe But the misery is that we strangers cannot walk there with them and talk with them but must keep out of their way and stand a loof off The reason is this This state as all Republicks are being hugely gealous of her liberty and preseruation forbids her Noble men and Senators to converse with Forrain Embassadors or any man that either is an actual seruant or follower of an Embassador or hath any the least relation to any Princes Agent with out expresse leaue and this vpon payne of being suspected as a Traitor and condignly punished This makes them shy to all strangers not Knowing what relation they may have to some forain states man of Agent For the same reason they will not let their wifes visit the wife 's of forrain Embassadors resideing in Venice for feare of being suspected to commit treason by proxie They haue in the wall of the Pallace in diuers places certain wide mouths of marble stone ouer which I found written these words Denuncie secrete Priuate informations into which they cast secretly papers of accusations by which they accuse secretly any officer or nobleman whom they durst not accuse publickly This maKes men stand hugely vpon
and Swisserland 2. Then returning the same way again to the piazza of the Capitol I saw there the famous Equestris Statua of Marcus Aurelius once guilt ouer but now appearing to be plain brasse This is the noblest statue in the world and I was going to say the noblest statue liuing for it seems almost to liue and breath by the workemans art it is noble also because it represents a man so noble as Marcus Aurelius who was a double Emperour being both a great Emperour and a great Philosopher Hard by this Equestris statue are seen two Colossean statues powring out two riuers the one representing Nilus the other Tigris Ouer them stands a statue of Rome something like Pallas her face is of white marble her garments of Porphiry 3. I saw the Trophies of Marius cut anciently in stone in honour of that great General who from a common soldier came by his warlike vertue to be seauen times Consul 4. I viewed the two great statues of Constantin the Great in white marble with the Horses 5. I saw the Milliarum that is a little pillar of stone with a great round brasen ball vpon it This pillar stood anciently in the Fore Romano before S. Adrians Church and it was erected by Augustus Caesar It was called Milliarium because from it the Romans counted the miles that were from Rome to euery great City of Italy or of the Empire and the first mile distant from this pillar was called primus ab Vrbe Lapis and so of the rest 6. Then entring into the Conseruatorio that is the pallace of the Conseruatori or Senators I saw there the Statues of Iulius Caesar Augustus Caesar Then in the little court I saw marked vp vpon the out wall in a marble stone the Roman measures as their Canna Palmo c. as we haue all measured by the Elle and yard that all marchants may know where to finde whether his measures be lawfull and iust or no. Then the foot hand thighs and head in marble scattered here and there in this court yet all looking as if they had belongd to the great Colossus of Apollo made by the command of Lucullus Then the rare statue of a Lyon tearing a horse The Tombe of Mammea and Alexander Seuerus her sonn with the rape of the Sabines vpon it in a basso rilieuo The little Egyptian Idol set high vp ouer this tombe The head of the Emperor Commodus in brasse with a hand of the same 7. Hard by the stairfoot as you mount vp to the Chambers stands the Colonna Rostrata a marble pillar some twelue foot high decked with stemms of ships cut in marble and sticking out of the pillar with an Inscription in the bassis below in scuruey old Latin I found it spoke of a Sea Victory wonn ouer he Carthaginians and of Duilius and I cared for no more because Liuy in better Latin tells me the rest to wit that it was Dulius that of all the Romans got the first Naual Victory and then I easily concluded that this pillar was erected to him for that seruice It s almost as hard a thing to conster this old Latin as to haue wonn that Victory and therefore I le leaue the words to Petrus Ciaconius a flegmatick spaniard to comment vpon Yet I learnt out of this left handed Latin this obseruation that the braue Romans of the highest times cared more to do well then to speak well and that the Roman commonwealth was turning towards her decline when fine language was in vogue 8. Hard by this pillar stand mounted two little quarter Cannons a poore Arsenal for the Roman Senators now a dayes 9. Then mounting vp some ten steps I came into a little Court whose walls are all encrusted ouer with four excellent peeces of Marcus Aurelius his Triumph cut in marble In one of them he triumpheth in his open chariot in another he sacrificeth in another he giueth largesses to the People In the forth he receiueth the presents of the Romans They are all so well cut that you doubt whether it be the Emperour or the Sculptor that triumphs here Indeed the Emperors Chariot hath got new wheels of late and his horses new shoos and feet else all is old 10. Then going vp the stairs higher I saw an old plate of brasse nayed vp in which the Roman Laws of the ten tables were written good Lawes but few And I was glad to see them yet kept if that bee to keep lawes to keep them nayled fast to the Wall 11. Then entring into the Chambers and great Hall I saw the statues of Alexander Farnese Duke of Parma of M. Antonius Colonna the Popes General in the battle of Lepanto and of Don Iohn of Austria Generalissimo I saw vpon the walls painted in fresco the rapt of the Sabins the duel of the tergimini Fratres three brothers against three brothers Horatii against Curiatii Sceuola holding his hand ouer the burning coales Cocles defending the bridge alone against an army of men Scipio and Hanibal with their seueral armyes so rarely painted by Pietro Perugino that the Romans now are in loue with Hanibal Then the picture of the first Consul Brutus commanding the death of his owne Son that of the Tarquinii that of the conquering of the Sabins c. all peeces as bold as the very actions they represent Here also in the other Chambers I saw some fine statues as that of Caius Marius that of Hercules in brasse being but yet a lad That of Iunius Brutus in brasse the heads in marble of Diogenes Plato Socrates the Statues of Cicero Virgil and Plato the brasen statue of the Woolf that gaue suck to Romulus and Remus But the best statue here is that of the yong man picking a thorne out of his foot It s onely of brasse but worth its weight in gold The story of it is this A yong foot poste bringing letters of singular importance vnto the Senate and pricking his foot as he ran would not stay to pick out the thorne but hastening to Rome with all speed deliuered his letters in full Senate prodigiously soone as it appeared by their dates But then claping himself downe vpon the ground before them all he began to pick out the thorne in the posture you see him here The Senate seing the haste he had made and the payne he had endured decreed presently that his statue in that posture should be erected in the Capitol Thus the old Romans not hauing then recompences enough for well deseruing men or else not willing to recompence them otherwise persuaded men that no recompence was like to that of a statue in the Capitol or to walke vp and downe the streets with a crowne of Laurel or Oake leaues vpon their heads Poore fooles Was a crowne of leaues such an honour when euen baudy houses and priuyes Saith Tertullian Were crowned too Or was it such a solid honour to haue a