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A34614 Remarks of the government of severall parts of Germanie, Denmark, Sweedland, Hamburg, Lubeck, and Hansiactique townes, but more particularly of the United Provinces with some few directions how to travell in the States dominions : together with a list of the most considerable cittyes in Europe, with the number of houses in each citty / written by Will. Carr ... Carr, William, 17th cent. 1688 (1688) Wing C636; ESTC R5052 66,960 226

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Toutonick order The government is easy to the people they not being taxed as other cities are and had it not been for the Alarmes the French gave them during the last war they had not been much troubled but being forced to keep three or four thousand men in constant pay to defend their fortifications the Magistrats were constrained to raise money by a tax Besides that of the Emperour they are under the protection of some neighbouring Princes as of the Landgrave of Hessen Cassells Landgrave of Armestadt the Count of Solmes and the count of Hanau who are either Lutherans or Calvinists amongst whom the Late Elector Palatine was also one but whether the present who is Roman Catholick be so or not I cannot tel This city takes great care of their poor and in their charitie to poor travellers exceed Holland I have seen a list of seaven thousand whom they relieved in one year Their great hospitall is a large court or palace where the English Merchants formerly lived in the time of Queen mary's persecution of the Protestants who when they were recalled by Queen Elisabeth were so generous as to give the whole court with all their Packhouses and lands to the poor of the city It was my fortune to be there in that cold Winter in the year 1683. and saw a ceremonie performed by the Wine coopers of the citie who are obliged by law that when ever the Maine lyes fast frozen over for eight days together to make a great Fouder fat Hoops and Staves and set it up compleat upon the Ice It was very good diversion to see so many hands at worke and to observe the jollity and mirth of the many thousands of spectators who wanted not plenty of Rhenish wine to carouse in I had the curiositie afterward to goe to the court of the Landgrave of Armestadt a Lutheran Prince who lives in part of the richest soyle in Germany His Highness is a very courteous and obligeing Prince to Strangers and his subjects are in a pretty good condition again though they have been great sufferers by the last war between the Landgrave of Hessen and this familie From thence I went to Heidleberg a city I had been formerly in in the life time of that wise tho unfortunate Prince Elector elder brother to Prince Rupert Here I had the Honour to pay-my dutifull respects to the Elector the son of that great Prince whose commissary I had the honour to be for two years together in Amsterdam This Prince since my being there is lately dead and left behind him the reputation of having been a Zealous thorough paced Calvinist and so constant a frequenter of the church that some Sundays he went thrice a day to Sermon but never failed if in health to be once a day at least at the garrison-church where he took particular notice of such officers as were absent He was married to a most virtuous lady the Royall sister of the King of Denmark and his brother Prince George During his life time the university of Heidleberg flourished exceedingly so that the number of students was so great that Chambers and lodgings in the citie were scarce and Spanhemius was about quitting Leyden to return to his professors place in Heidleberg but how matters stand since his death I am as yet ignorant This Countrey is called the paradise of Germany for its fruitfulness in wine corn and all sorts of fruit I my self have seen growing in one plain at the same time vines corn chestnuts almonds dates figs cherries besides severall other sorts of fruit And as the Countrey is fertile in yeelding the fruits of the Earth so the people are carefull in providing store room for them This I take notice of because of the prodigious Rhenish wine fats which are to be seen there amongst which there are seaven the least whereof holds the quantitie of 250 barells of Beere as I calculated but the large and most celebrated fat is that which goes by the name of the great Tun of Heidleberg and holds 204 fouders of wine and cost 705 L. Sterling in buildiug for which one may have a very good house built This fat I have seen twice and the first time was when the Elector treated the French Ambassadours that came to conclude the match betwixt his daughter and Monsieur the French Kings brother who married her after the death of our Kings sister his first wife at which treat there happened an adventure that I shall here please the Reader with In a gallery that is over this fat the Elector caused a table to be placed in the midle exactly above the bunghole of this Monstrous vessell and to be covered with a costly banquet of all sorts of sweet meats The day before all the wine being emptied out of this Tun into other Fat 's a litle before the Ambassadours with other forrein Ministers and Persons of qualitie mounted the stairs to come to the place of entertainment The Elector caused twelve drummers with as many Trumpeters some Kettledrums and other musick to be lodged in the belly of the Tun with orders to strike up upon a signall given when the Elector drank the French Kings health All being sate down at table and merrily feeding the Elector drank the health and the signall was given whereupon the musick began to play its part with such a roaring and uncouth noise out of that vast cavitie below that the French and other Persons of qualitie who were unacquainted with the designe looking upon it to be an infernall and ominous sound in great astonishment began to cry out Jesu Marie The worlds at an end and to shift every one for himself in so great disorder and confusion that for haste to be gone they tumbled down staires one over another All that the Elector could say to compose them was either not heard or not valued nor could any thing satisfie and reassure them till they saw the Actors com marching out of their den Had not many Persons of qualitie and travellers seen this Fat as wel as my self who know that what I say of its incredible bigness to be true I should be afraid the Reader might think I imposed upon his credulitie From Heidleberg I went to see that impregnable Fort or citadell of Manheim alias Fredericks-berg built by the Elector Frederick brother to Prince Rupert a Prince of as good a head as any Germany affoarded who though some have too partially Judged of him by his misfortunes yet by the wisest of the age was acconnted the Cato of Germany The wisest and best-men of the world have been unfortunate which makes some to be of the opinion that God in his wisdom thinks fit it should be so least otherwise they might attribute their prosperitie rather to the wise direction of their own conduct then his all seeing Providence and indeed dayly experience seemes to evince the truth of this since wee see knaves and fools advanced to preferment and richess when men of
virtue and parts die neglected and poor in the eyes of the world though rich in the enioyment of a contented mind But this is a digression which the honour I have for the memory of that great man hath led mee into and therefore I hope will be pardoned by the Reader In the citadel of Manheim I saw some of the Records of that illustrious familie which without dispute is the most ancient of all the Secular Electors being elder to that of Bavaria which sprung from one and the same stock to wit two Emperours of Germany Many writers derive them originally from Charle le maigne by the line of Pepin King of France There have been severall Emperours of that race one King of Denmark and four Kings of Sweden one of which was King of Norway also besides many great Generals of Armies in Germany Hungary France and other Countries Since I can remember there vere five Protestant Princes heires to that Electorall dignity alive which now by their death is fallen to the Duke of Nowbourg a Roman Catholick whose Daughter is Empress of Germany and another of his Daughters maryed to the King of Portugall Being so neare Strasbourg I had the curiositie to goe see what figure that famous citie now made since it had changed its master for I had been thrice there before when it flourished under the Emperours protection with the liberty of a Hausiatick town And Indeed I found it so disfigured that had it not been for the stately Cathedrall Church and fair streets and buildings I could scarcely have know'n it In the streets and Exchange which formerly were thronged with sober rich and peaceable Merchants you meet with none hardly now but men in buff Coats and scarffs with rabbles of Soldiers their attendants The churches I confess are gayer but not so much frequented by the inhabitants as heretofore seing the Lutherans are thrust into the meanest churches and most of the chiefe Merchants both Lutherans and Calvinists removed to Holland and Hambourg Within a few years I beleeve it will be just such another city for trade and Richess as Brisac is It was formerly a rich city and well stockt with Merchants and wealthy inhabitants who lived under a gentle and easy government but now the Magistrats have litle else to doe in the government but onely to take their rules and measures from a citadell and great guns which are Edicts that Merchants least understand I confess Strasbourg is the less to be pityed that it so tamely became a slave and put on its chains without any strugling Those Magistrats who were instruments in it are now sensible of their own folly and bite their nails for anger finding themselves no better but rather worse hated than the other Magistrats who did what they could to hinder the reception of their new masters the French. I quickly grew weary of being here meeting with nothing but complaints of poverty and paying exorbitant taxes I therefore soon returned to my Petty-London Francfort and from thence went to Cassells the chiefe residence of the Landgrave of Hessen This Prince is a Calvinist as most of his subjects are very grave and Zealous in his religion He married a Princess of Courland by whom he hath an hopefull issue to wit three sons and two Daughters The late King was God father to one of his sons who was Christened by the name of Charles Captain William Legg Brother to the Lord Dartmouth representing his Majestie as his Envoy The court of this Prince does indeed resemble a well governed colledge or Religious Cloyster in regard of its modestie and regularitie in all things and especially in the houres of devotion He is rich in money and entertains about nine thousand men in constant pay under the command of Count van derlipp a brave and expert Soldier his Lieutenant Generall but can bring many more upon occasion into field This familie hath been very happy both in its progenie and alliances many wise Princes of both sexes having sprung from it and the mother of this present Landgrave may be reckoned amongst the illustrious women of the present and past ages After the death of William the 5. Landgrave of Hessen her husband she not only supported but advanced the war wherein he was engaged did many signall actions Enlarged her territories and at the conclusion of the peace kept under her pay 56 Cornets of horse in five Regiments 166 Companies of foot besides thirteen Companies of Dragons and 14 independent Companies in all 249 Companies of horse and foot she was a Princess extreamly obliging to strangers especially virtuous and learned divines I had the honour a good many yeares agoe to kisse her highnesses hand at which time she was mighty Zealous in promoting an accommodation amongst different Religions as the Roman Catholick Lutheran and Calvinist but especially betwixt the two latter and therefore entertained Doctor Duris at her court in Cassels who wrote severall pieces upon that subject of reconciliation and with some of his friends had a conference with a learned priest that came from Rome to forward the project whereupon the Doctor published his book of the Harmoney of Consent which is highly esteemed in Germany From this Princes court I directed my journey to Hanover taking Lambspring in my way a place where there is a convent of English Monks and there I met with a very aged worthy and harmeless Gentleman St. Thomas Gascoigue a Person of more integrity and pietie then to be guilty so much as in thought of what miscreants falsly swore against him in the licentions time of plotting the Lord Abbot and severall of the Monks I had seen there formerly This monastery is very obliging to all strangers that travell that way as well as to theire own Countreymen and is highly respected by the neighbouring Princes of all persuasions as the Princes of the house of Lunenburg the Landgrave of Hessen and Elector of Cologne who as Bishop of Hildersheim is their ordinary The town of Lambspring is Lutheran though under the government of the Lord Abbot and his chapter who constantly choose Lutheran Magistrats and Officers for the civill administration and live together in that love and unitie that as yet there hath never the least debate happened amongst them and indeed this harmoney is now to be observed in most parts of Germany where different Religions are professed When I considered so many goodly faces both of Monks and students in that Abbey I could not forbeare to make a serious reflexion on the number of the English whom I had seen in the colledges and Cloysters abroad as at Rome Rattesbonne Wirtzburg in Lorraine at Liege Louvain Brussels Dunkerk Ghent Paris and other places besides the severall Nunneries and withall on the loss that both King and Kingdome suffered thereby when so many of our natives both men and women should be constrained to spend their own Estats and the benevolence of others in a strange Land which amounts