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A29627 An historical account of Mr. Rogers's three years travels over England and Wales giving a true and exact description of all the chiefest cities, towns and corporations in England, Dominion of Wales, and town of Berwick upon Twede : together with the antiquities, and places of admiration, cathedrals, churches of note in any city, town or place in each county, the gentleman above-mentioned having made it his whole business (during the aforesaid time) to compleat the same in his travelling, : to which is annexed a new map of England and Wales, with the adjacent parts, containing all the cities and market towns bound in just before the title. Brome, James, d. 1719.; D. J. 1694 (1694) Wing B4857; ESTC R39940 65,229 160

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and Ireland nevertheless was attended with the same ill Fortune and Success which had been too long his Attendance And having but a small Army in comparison of the numberless Number of Rebells that were poured in upon him was totally Defeated in this City several of his Nobles slain and took Prisoners the rest forced to fly for their Lives and himself constrained to make his Escape as privately as he could and to betake himself into a Wood in Staffordshire where he hiding himself in the Shady Bows of a well spread Oak he found more pitty and security from the Trees and Woods than from his own unnatural and Bloody Subjects who for the fear of God by whom Kings Reign as well as their Allegiance which they have sworn to him ought to have been his continual Protection and Safe-good However 't is restor'd again to its Lustre and like the Phenix is raised again out of the Ashes to its native Splender and Magnificence being still Governed by a Mayor two Sheriffs and a Court of Aldermen with other Officers fit to preserve it in that Bravery to which it hath now attained From hence we went next into Herefordshire Having sufficiently satisfied our selves with the Varieties of that City we came into the Confines of the Eastern part of Herefordshire which is very Rocky and Mountainous at the first but having passed those Rocky parts we began to find the County more pleasant to the Eye We discovered it to be a fertile Soil the Vallies thick with Corn and the Meadows abounding with Grass and well watered with Rivers the Hills covered with Sheep and the Hedges full of Apple-trees which bear a sort of Fruit called Red Streaks of which they make the best Cyder in England in a word we found it according to the usual report which is made of it to yield to no County in this Nation for three W. W. W. Wheat Wool and Waters to which formerly might have been added Wood but the Iron Works have destroyed it very much and made it now become less plentiful The first Town of Note we came to in this County was LEOMSTER Is a Town of great Request in this County and is of great Antiquity Some are of an Opinion that it received its Denomination from Linen Hemp or Flax because that grows thereabouts in plenty but it may be so called from Lana because it is reported to have the best Wool known by the Name of Leomster Ore and is said to make the finest Cloth in England and as its Wool makes the finest Cloth so doth its Wheat the purest Bread and they say hereabouts that for Leomster Bread and Weobly Beer none can Compare Concerning the Town it is Situated in a pleasant Valley and is Governed by a Bayliff and Aldermen and is Adorned with a very handsome Hall for the dispatching of publick Affairs We went from hence to HEREFORD The chief City hereof is Situated almost in the Middle of the County and Watered by two pleasant Rivers Wye and Lugg which by their happy Union not far from this City advance her Felicity and enrich her Soil Antiquaries are of an Opinion that this City had its Rise from Ariconium which at this Day hath no form at all of a Town as having been over-turned by an Earthquake as some do imagine it to have been in this Place which they now call Lenchester some three Miles distant from this City which they conceive to be so from the Ruines of old Walls that are here to be seen as likewise from four square Pareing Stones and thick Bricks as well as several Roman Coins digged up in the Earth though now all grown over with Trees Bushes and Brambles We observed when we went to Visit this place we saw several peices of an old Wall which do Argue the place to continue in it very great remains of Antiquity however her Sister Hereford which now is Beautiful by the pains of others claims rightly the Pre-eminence before all other places in this County wanting nothing for Pleasure and Profit to make her Renowned She is thought first to have shewn her Head in the time of the Saxon and it is supposed to have received great Helps and Increase by Religion and the Martyrdom of Ethelbert King of the East Angels who when he courted the Daughter of Offa King of the Mercians was treacherously put to death by Offa's Wife hereupon being Registered for a Martyr he had a Church built and dedicated to him by Milsred a petty King of this County which after the Establishment of a Bishop's See it grew to great Wealth and Honour and is thought never to have suffered any Misfortune until Confesser's time when Griffith Prince of South Wales and Algarus had raised a Rebellion against King Edward and led away Captive the Bishop Sacked the City and burnt the Cathedral afterwards the Normans at the East end of the Church by the River Wye built a strong Castle and fortified the City with a Wall and by the Trench near the Castle is a very fine Spring called St. Ethelbert's Well Within this City are four Parish-Churches and Bishop Reinelin in the Reign of King Henry the First founded the Cathedral which now is being a beautiful and magnificent Structure adorned with divers ancient Monuments of Bishops and Abbors The City is governed by a Mayor who is annually Sworn upon Michaelmas-Day 12 Aldermen a Recorder and divers Common-Councel-Men and by their Charter have Privileges for particular Companies and Societies amongst themselves who have several distinct Halls and Petty-laws Enacted for Regulating and Ordering their Affairs in Trade It hath three Markets a-Week in which there are plenty of Corn and all sorts of Provisions About two Miles from this County stands Rotheram as formerly belonging to the Family of Boddenham now in the Possession of the Family of Van Arker and is one of the delightfullest and sweetest Seats in all the County having a spacious Park before it the River Nye behind it pleasant Meadows on the one side and fruitful Tillage on the other and having had such great plenty of Apple-trees belonging to it as I have been credibly informed by those that then knew it That take but one Apple from each Tree it would make a Hogshead of Cyder Concerning some remarkable Things in this County c. BONE-well near Richard's Castle we went to visit to take some notice of Nature who is never more curious than in her Water-works presented us with another new Rarity a Well called Bone-well in the Water whereof are always bubling up several little Bones like Bones of Fishes and altho' they which be upon the Surface are with as great care as can be taken off yet others will immediately succeed in their room HOPTON's-well is not far from this the Water whereof is found very effectual for the Curing of several Maladies which have seized upon Poor Languishing Decriped Mortals it hath likewise been observed to by very good for the
restoring of Eye-sight to the Blind and is also of great use in strengthening the Limbs of weak Persons SUTTON WALLS Amongst the other Varieties we were entertanied with in this County there were some Remains of Antiquity called Sutton walls Near to the Village of Marden are the Ruins of some antient great Buildings in all probability supposed to be the Mansion-house of Offa when Renchester flourished or at least when Hereford was but in its Infancy This Offa being King of the Mercians having invited Ethelhert King of the East-Angles into his Palace under colour and pretence of bestowing his Daughter upon him in Marriage by the Councel of his ambitious Wife in hopes to succeed him in his Kingdom basely and treacherously caused his Head to be stricken off by one Grimbert his Servant and his Body being buried on the Banks of the River Lugg was afterwards removed to Hereford and over it was built a Cathedral by King Milfred which was since dedicated to St. Ethelbert Having sufficiently recreated our selves with all the pleasure pastimes and rarities in this County we began to think to return towards London and went from this City to a place called Ross in this County a Town noted for its famous Houses of Slates and Stones as also for a great number of Blacksmiths hammering out their living upon their Anvells and when we were past that Town we soon came into the Confines of Gloucestershire of which hereafter Gloucestershire Being within the Confines of this County we found it most fertile watered by the River Severn and be-set with Woods and thick Groves 't is happy in the enjoyment of all things which are necessary for the Use and Service of Man the very Hedges and Land are well stored with Apples and Pear-trees and their fragrant blushing Colour invites the wandering Travellers to refresh himself with their most Wholesome Juices And as Concerning this County in General the Towns stands thick together in most parts of this County and so 't is populous the Houses numerous and well built the Churches fair and handsome and so 't is honourable but that which is one of the greatest Blessings of all is the River Severn there is not any River in all our Nation for its Channel broader for a Stream Swifter and for Variety of Fish better stocked though sometimes it overflows the Banks and when it hath roved a great way it retires back again as it were triumphing over the Conquest of the Land This River Severn or Sabrina was so called from Sabenia a fair Lady concerning whom there goes this Story Loarnie the eldest Son of Brutus who came first into Britain took to Wife the Daughter of the Duke of Cornwall but notwithstanding this he kept a very beautiful Mistriss and by her he had a Daughter whom he named Sabenia whereupon he grew so enamoured of her that after the Death of his Father-in-law the Duke of Cornwall he put a way his Lawful-Wife and Wedded his Mistriss his Wife was so extreamly netled at this that she immediately repaired into Cornwall and made her Complaint there amongst her Friends and Relations and having gathered a great Power to revenge her Injury she fought with her Husband Loarine and Slew him and buried him at Trynobant or London afterwards executed her Revenge still in the highest Degree She took the Lady with her fair Daughter Sabenia too and drowned them both in this River The first place of Note we came to in this County was the City of GLOCESTER This City is well seated and as well inhabited and of a considerable Trade by reason of the Severn which being Navigable Boats of great Burden come up to their Key side loaded with several Commodities 'T is governed by a Mayor and Aldermen and is adorned with several fair Churches amongst which the Cathedral is the chief and most glorious Erected by Alfred Archbishop of York and Bishop of Worcester it hath been by the charity of good Benefactors much enlarged King Edward the Second lies here Interred under a Monument of Alablaster and in the Quire under a wooden painted Tomb lies Robert the Eldest Son of William the Conqueror who was deprived both of his Life and Kingdom by his younger Brother Here is likewise to be seen the Monument of Lucius the first Christian King that ever was in England about the Year 179. The Pillars of this Church are of an extraordinary thickness scarce to be parallel'd in any Church in England but that which makes it more remarkable is a place at the East end of the Quire called The Whispering-place 't is a Pentagone-Arch in the from of a Semicircle 30 Yards in circuit and so rare a piece of Art That if any Person stands at one end of it and whispers never so softly he that lays his Ear to the other end will discover distinctly the Words he speaks Then next Town of Note we went to was TEWKSBURY a Market-Town of good Note and of a great Trade for Cloth and Stockins 'T is situated amongst the pleasant Rivers Severn on the one side enricheth it on the other side Avon and another small River which comes from the East over each whereof stands Bridges which give entrance into it It hath been counted famous for the great Battel fought here between the House of York and Lancaster utterly Subverted In the Reign of King Henry the Third there is a story of a Jew that lived in this Town Recorded That falling into a Jakes or Privy on the Sabbath or Saterday by no means for Reverence of that Day suffer any Helping-hands to come and pluck him out of that unpleasant Hole whereupon the then Earl of Gloucester having some Intilligence of his refractory Sullenness gave a strick Charge that no one should dare to take him out on the Sunday for the Reverence of that Day and so the poor Circumsized-Wrecth perished in that most Loathsom Dugeon through his own folly This was about the year 1259. The next place of note we went to was CICITER which the River Ornus or Churne Rising amongst the Woods near Corbely is very commodious for Mills This Place doth appear to have been of great Antiquity and Renown The Brittish Chronicles shew that this Town was burnt being set on fire by a Company of Sparrows through an Invention devised by on Gurmund certain it is that the Inhabitans shew a Mount below the Town which they report this Gurmund did cast up they corruptly call it Gurmund's Tower Hear is likewise to be seen some ruinated Wall of an old Abby 't is now beautified with a very handsome Church having a high spired Steeple and a Market once a week Many other things are very observeable which will be too tedious to relate We went from hence to FAIREFORD a place well known for its curious Church-Windows in which are most rarely pourtrayed in Painted-glass the whole history of the Bible From hence we went into Oxfordshire Which being once entered into we could not
Treasures and Mints of Money atchieved more magnificent Acts than ever any Prelate did before him for he erected the Royal Palace of Hampton-Court besides two famous Colleges the one at this Native Town and the other a most glorious Structure called Christ-Church College in Oxford and for the height of his Living and Attendance it is very elegantly set forth by the writer of his Life But notwithstanding he was the Favourite of his Prince and the Darling of Fortune and sued to by Foreigners and his own Country-men too as to be the only Person to apply to in all accounts yet true it is that Fortune very oft sets great Persons upon the Hill of Honour thereby to precipitate them with the greater Violence we find this lofty Cardinal could no way secure himself from the reach of fretting Envy and learn'd by the mutability of his own Condition for being retired into the Country after he seeing his Fortunes began to ebb at Court having the Great Seal took from him by the King's Order and was afterwards sent for by the Lieutenant of the Tower to appear before his Majesty and as returning out of the North to the City of London in his Journy he fell sick of a Flux at the Earl of Shrewsbury's house in Sheffeild-Park which being accompanied with a Fever did so weaken his Body that when he came to Leicester Abby which way he took he told the Abbot after the Solemnities of receiving him were past That indeed he was come to lay his Bones amongst them which accordingly came to pass for their he died and after his death his Corps being invested by the Monks with all such Ornaments as he was Professed in when he was made Bishop and Archbishop as Mitre cross-Cross-King and Pall with all other things due to his Order and Dignity and having lain some few days in State to be visited by those who had a mind to pay their last Respects to his Person he was buried in their Chappel dedicated to the Virgin Mary with great Solemnity though all perished in the ruin of the Monastery Subverted not long after when Popery was banished from the Confines of England This Town had its share of Calamities in the unhappy Civil Wars It is well furnished with all kind of Grain it is governed by a Mayor Alderman and Recorder with other inferiour Officers to attend them The Town is strengthened with several Gates in one whereof is kept the Magazine it is also adorned with divers eminent Fabricks both Sacred and Civil the Cross in high Street is a very excellent Structure there are likewise five Churches by that which is called St. Martins stands the new Hospital being a stately Edifice built and endowed by several Benefactors for the use of divers aged Men and Women with a Chappel and a Chaplain to read Divine Service and to be assistful to those poor People therein and to this joins their publick Library which was given for the use of Ministers and Schollars who inhabit here hard by St. Mary's Church stands the Castle where the Assizes are kept for the County and by St. Nicholas there is a Wall which by the Ruins of it seems to be of very great Antiquity having several hollow places in it of an oval form of which the Inhabitants have strange Conjectures concerning them as if there had been some place in which the Pagans did offer up their Children to their blood-thirsty Idols or that they made them here pass through the fire as the Israelites did to Moloch but of this there is no probability at all and these only being conjectural Guesses I shall leave them and observe one thing more concerning this Town After the fatal Battel betwixt King Richard the Third and Henry Earl of Richmond afterwards Henry the Seventh King of England in Bosworth-field about the Year of our Lord 1485 in which King Richard with four Thousand Men more were slain and not above ten Persons on the other side The Corps of the deceased King was brought to be buried there in great disgrace as the day before he went out in pomp for his Body being rifled by the Souldiers was carried naked behind a Pursivant at Arms and being all over daub'd with Mire and Blood was conveyed to the Grey Friar's Church that then was within the Town and there buried very obscurely and meanly whilst Richmond with joyful Acclamations was proclaimed King in the very midst of slaughtered Bodies round about CARLETON all that are born there whether it be by a peculiar Property of the Soil or of the Water or else by some other secret Operation of Nature have an ill favoured untunable and harsh manner of Speech fetching their Words with very much ado deep from out of the Throat with a certain kind of wharling the Letter R being very irksome to them to pronounce Rutlandshire It is the least County of all England Lying in form almost round like a circle it is in compass so far about as a Light-horsman will ride in one day It was called Rutland as one would say Red-land the Earth in this Shire is every where red and so red that even the Sheeps fleeces are thereby coloured red The English-Saxons called Red in their Tongue Roet and Rud. UPPINGHAM a place upon an high ascent whence that name was imposed a well frequented Market Town The Vale of Catmose a field full of Woods Okeham is in the middle of it so called from Oaks This small Shire hath Parish Churches fourty eight Lincolnshire A very large County reaching almost three Score Miles in length and carrying in some places above thirty Miles in breadth passing good for yielding of Corn and feeding of Cattel well furnished and set out with great number of Towns and watered with many Rivers having great store of Fish and Fowl BOSTON is a famous Town standing on both sides the River Witham which hath over it a wooden Bridge of great height well frequented by means of a commodious Haven unto it The Market-place is fair and large and the Buildings are very beautiful also a most stately Church with a very high Tower-steeple and hath as many steps in its steeple from the bottome to the top as there are Days in the Year which Steeple salutes Passengers and Travellers a great way off and giveth Direction also to Sailers In the Coat of Boston for the Corporation there are three Crowns relating to the three Kingdoms the Crest a Ram lying upon a Wool-sack the Ram signifying the great Sheep-walks in the Fens round about and the Wool-sack that it was a Staple-Town the Supporters of the Coat are two Maremaids signifying that it was a Port-Town LINCOLN The chief City of the County and is large well inhabited and frequented it is situated upon the side of an Hill and thence hath its Name from its Situation or because it hath been a Colony Certain it is a Place of great Antiquity and of a very long standing there are fourteen
the Charters by which the Scotch King stood obliged to do Homage to the King of England and thereupon ensued a great War betwixt them for King David being spurred on by the French King Invaded England and having made a great Road into the Northern Counties and spoiling and burning every where as they went along at length at Durham his Army was routed and himself taken Prisoner being first sent to the Tower afterward committed to this Castle where during his consinement he engraved upon the Walls of his Deportment the History of our Saviour's Death and Passion the Relicts of which are still to be seen After eleven Years Imprisonment he was restored against to his Kingdom by paying a good Ransom for his Liberty but before he returned he was one of the four Kings that was nobly Treated by Henry Picard a Vintner then Lord Mayor of London These were the four Kings Edward the Third King of England John King of France David King of the Scots and the King of Cyprus together with Edward The Black Prince all bearing him company at the same Table this was about the Year 1358. But before I leave this Town I cannot but take notice of one thing more memorable in our Age this being the first place where King Charles the First set up his Royal Standard against the Rebels in the late unhappy Wars and when the King's Forces were forced to leave it the Castle was quite demolished We went from hence to view the Chair of Robin-Hood of which it follows Having pleasured our selves with the Antiquities of this Town we took Horse and went to visit the Well and ancient Chair of Robin-Hood which is about a Mile within the Forest of Shirwood Being placed in that Chair we had a Cap which they say was his very formally put upon our Heads and having performed the usual Ceremonies befitting so great a Solemnity we received the Freedom of the Chair and were incorporated into the Society of that renowned Brotherhood but that we may not receive such Privileges without an honourable mentioning of the Persons that left them to Posterity know we must that the Patent was bequeathed to the inferior Rangers of this Forest by Robin Hood and Little John honourable Personages indeed being the chief Lords of some most renowned Robbers in the Reign of King Richard the First This same Robin Hood entertained one Hundred tall Men all good Archers with the Spoil he daily made himself Master of whom four Hundred tho' every way well Accoutred to give Battel durst scarce make an Onset He suffered no Woman to be violated oppress'd oa any ways molested poor Men's Goods he spared and did relieve them very liberally with what he got from the rich Carles He killed none and by this means he did for a long time keep up the Order of Knight Errants Having for some time pleased our selves with our new Brothers that very curteously entertained us we went from hence into Yorkshire The County of York is the greatest Shire by far of all England and is thought to be in a temperate measure fruitful If in one place there be stony and sandy barren ground in another place there are for it Corn-fields as rich and fruitful if it be void and destitute of Woods here you shall find it shadowed in another place with most thick Forests The Length extendeth from Hart-hill in the South to the Mouth of Tees in the North which is near seventy Miles the breadth from Flambrough-head to Horn-Castle upon the River Lun is Eighty the whole circumference three hundred and eight Miles HELMSLEY a Mannor in Yorkshire hath two Parks and a Chase in it said to be about 146 Miles in compass and had 40000 Timber-Trees and 200 Acres of Wood. There are many Free-holders there The whole Shire is divided into 3 parts which according to the 3 Quarters of the World are called The West-Riding The East-Riding The North-Riding West-Riding for a good while is compassed in with the River Ouse with the bound of Lancashire and with the South limits of the Shire and beareth toward the West and South East-Riding looketh to the Sun-rising and the Ocean which together with the River Derwent encloseth it North-Riding reacheth Northward hemmed in as it were with the River Tees with Derwent and a long race of the River Ouse YORK is the fairst City in all this County and deservedly reputed the Second of England for its Greatness and Munificence the pleasantness of its Situation the Buildings are stately and beautiful The whole City is rich glorious and honourable both in respect of its being governed by a Lord Mayor who moderates in all Cases of Temporal Affairs as also by an Archbishop who is Judge in all Spiritual Matters The River Ouse flowing with a gentle Stream from the North part cutteth it in twain and divided as it were into two Cities which are conjoined with a stone Bridge having one mighty Arch. There is a Cathedral Church dedicated to Saint Peter an excellent fair and stately Fabrick near unto which there is the Prince's House commonly called The Mannour York was a Colony of the Romans Ptolomey and Antonine and also by a piece of Money coined by the Emperour Severus in the reverse whereof we read COL EBORACUMLEG VI. VICTRIX Severus had his Palace in this City and here at the hour of death gave up his last breath with these words I entered upon a State every way troublesome and I leave it peaceable even to the Britains There are many fine Seats of Persons of Quality by reason of the Pleasantness of its Soil which abounds in Plenty of all things and for Pleasure and Recreation it affords the most of any County in England In the North-Riding of this County is Ounsbery-Hill or Rosebery-Topping which mount-up a mighty height and maketh a goodly shew a farre off so often as the Head thereof hath his cloudy Cap on lightly there followeth rain whence they have a proverbial Rhime When Rosebery-Topping wears a Cap Let Cliveland then beware a clap I could have particuliz'd several other Towns and Villages in this Shire but what has been related is most material and again the Volume is but small and would not bear it In this County there are 459 Parishes under which are very many Chappels for number of Inhabitants equal unto great Parishes We went from hence into the Bishoprick of Durham of which it follows Durham The chief Town in Latin Dunelmum a County Palatine and a Bishop's See 't is situated upon a Hill and encompassed almost round by the River Were is also shaped in form of an Egg and strongly fortified both by Art and Nature There is a stately Cathedral which makes a fine and lofty shew with an high Tower in the midst and two Spires at the West end The County in general is very pleasant and rich in its Mountains with Iron and Coals and its Vallies with Corn and Grass But before I leave this County