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A89219 Healths improvement: or, Rules comprizing and discovering the nature, method, and manner of preparing all sorts of food used in this nation. Written by that ever famous Thomas Muffett, Doctor in Physick: corrected and enlarged by Christopher Bennet, Doctor in Physick, and fellow of the Colledg of Physitians in London. Moffett, Thomas, 1553-1604.; Bennet, Christopher, 1617-1655. 1655 (1655) Wing M2382; Thomason E835_16; ESTC R202888 187,851 309

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pills made of dead mens brains Apollonius bad gums with dead mens teeth but far be it from any humane or Christian heart brag we of this foolish invention never so much to suck away one anothers life in the blood of young men wherein Charles the 9 King of France being but outwardly bathed for his leprosie died therefore and for other his cruel massacres a most bloody death wherefore let us content our selves with the blood of geese swans hoggs and sheep in our sawce and puddings which yet are but a gross and fulsome nourishment unless they meet with a strong and good stomack CHAP. XVII Of Fish generally and the difference thereof AS amongst Poets there is some called the Coryphaeus or Captain-poet so fareth it likewise amongst meats Some prefering fruit as being most ancient cleanly naturall and needing either none or very little preparation Others extoll flesh as most sutable to fleshy creatures and giving most and best nourishment But the finest feeders and dainty bellies did not delight in flesh with Hercules or in fruit with Plato and Arcesilaus but with Numa and Philocrates in variety of fish which Numa made a law that no fish without scales nor without finns should be eaten of the people whereupon I may justly collect and gather that he was not ignorant of Moses law Also according to the vain dream of Gregory the great Bishop of Rome and the author of the Carthusian order he put more holines in fish then in flesh falsly imagining flesh to be a greater motive to lust and lasciviousness then the use of fish which frivolous conceit is before sufficiently confuted in the seventh Chapter and needeth not to be shaken again in this place Now I will not deny that fish is a wholesome meat if such fish could be alwaies gotten as may sufficiently nourish the body but now a daies it so falleth out through iniquity of times or want of providence or that our Sea-coast and Rivers are more barren of fish then heretofore that in the Spring time when we ought to feed on the purest and most wholesome nourishment our blood is not cleansed but corrupted with filthy fish I mean saltherrings red-herrings sprats Haberdin and greenfish which are not amiss for Sailers and Ploughmen but yet most hurtful and dangerous for other persons Gatis Queen of Syria made a Law that no meal should pass through the year without fish which if it were as firmly made and executed in England no doubt much flesh would be spared and Navigation and fisher men maintained through the land neither should we need to imitate Gregory the Lent-maker perswading men to eat only fish at that time when it is most out of season most hardly gotten and most hurtfull to the bodies of most men Also in high Germany there is both fish and flesh continually set upon the table that every mans appetite humour and complexion may have that which is fittest for it in which Country though no Lent be observed except of a few Catholicks yet is there abundance of flesh all the year long restraint being onely made in Spring time of killing that which is young Differences of Fish in kind Concerning the kinds of Fishes Pliny maketh a hundred threescore and seventeen several sorts of them whereof some being never seen nor known of in our Country it were but folly to repeat them As for them which we have and feed on in England they are either scaled as Sturgian salmon grailings shuins carps breams base mullet barbel pike luce perch ruffs herrings sprats pilchers roch shads dorry gudgin and umbers or shell'd as scallopes oisters mustles cockles periwinckles or crusted over as crabs lobsters crevisses shrimps or neither scalld shell'd nor crusted as Tunny ling cod hake haberdine haddock seal conger lampreyes lamperns eeles plaise turbut flounder skate thorneback maides sole curs gildpoles smelts cuttles sleeves pouts dogfish poulps yards mackrels troutes tenches cooks whitings gournards and rochets To which also we may add Sticklebacks and minoes and spirlings and anchovaes because they are also neither scaled crusted nor defended with shells As for the goodness or badness of fish it is lessened or encreased upon three causes the place they live in the meat they feed on and their manner of dressing or preparation Concerning the first some live in the Sea some in Rivers some in Ponds some in Fenny creeks and meers Difference of Fish in respect of place Sea-fish as it is of all other the sweetest so likewise the least hurtfull for albeit they are of a thicker and more fleshy substance yet their flesh is most light and easie of concoction insomuch that Zeno and Crato two notable Physians in Plutarcks time commended them above all other to their sick patients and not without desert for as the Sea-aire is purest of all other because it is most tossed and purified with winds so the water thereof is most laboured and nourisheth for us the wholesomest and lightest meat lightest because continual exercise consumeth the Sea-fishes superfluities wholesomest because the salt water like to buck-lye washeth away their inward filth and uncleaness Of Sea fish those are best which live not in a calm and muddy Sea tossed neither with tides nor windes for there they wax nought for want of exercise but they which live in a working Sea whose next continent is clean gravelly sandy or rocky running towards the North-east wind must needs be of a pure and wholesome nourishment less moist and clammy then the others easier also of concoction sooner turn'd into blood and every way fitter for mans body This is the cause why the Oritae and Northern-people live as wel with fish alone as we do here with such variety of flesh even I say the goodness lightness and wholesomness of their fish which is not brought unto us till it be either so stincking or salt that all their goodness is gone or dryed up River-Fish likewise are most wholesome and light when they swim in rocky sandy or gravel'd Rivers runing Northward or Eastward and the higher they swim up the better they are Contrariwise those which abide in slow short and muddy Rivers are not onely of an excremental and corrupt juice but also of a bad smell and ill taste Pond-fish is soon fatted through abundance of meat and want of exercise but they are nothing so sweet as River-fish unless they have been kept in some River to scoure themselves especially when they live in little standing ponds not fed with continual springs nor refreshed from some River or Sea with fresh water Fenny-fish of all other is most slimy excremental unsavory last digested and soonest corrupted having neither free aire nor sweet water nor good food to help or better themselves such are the fish of that lake in Armenia where all the fish be black and deadly and albeit our English meers be not so bad yet verily their fish is bad enough especially
agreeing with all constitutions of body sicknesses and ages Pungitij Spinachiae Hackles or Sticklebacks are supposed to come of the seed of fishes spilt or miscarrying in the water some think they engender of their own accord from mud or rain putrified in ponds howsoever it is they are nought and unwholesome sufficient to quench poor mens hunger but not to nourish either rich or poor Iacks or young Pickrels shall be described hereafter when we speak of the nature of Pikes Kobs or Sea-gudgins taken yet in fresh water are before spoken of in the discourse of Gudgions Lampretae Muraenae Lampreys and Lamprons differ in bigness only and in goodness they are both a very sweet and nourishing meat encreasing much lust through superfluous nourishment were they as wholesome as sweet I would not much discommend Lucius Mutaena and the Nobles of England for so much coveting after them but how ill they are even for strong stomachs and how easily a man may surfet on them not onely the death of King Henry the first but also of many brave men and Captains may sufficiently demonstrate Pliny avoucheth that they engender with the land Snake but sith they engender and have eggs at all times of the year I see no reason for it Aristotle saith that another long fish like a Lamprey called Myrus is the Sire which Licinius Macer oppugneth affirming constantly that he hath found Lampreys upon the land engendring with Serpents and that Fisher-men counterfetting the Serpents hiss can call them out of the water and take them at pleasure They are best if ever good in March and April for then are they so fat that they have in a manner no back bone at all towards Summer they wax harder and then have they a manifest bone but their flesh is consumed Seeth or bake them thoroughly for otherwise they are of hard and very dangerous digestion Old men gowty men and aguish persons and whosoever is troubled in the sinews or sinewy parts should shun the eating of them no less then as if they were Serpents indeed The Italians dress them after this sort first they beat them on the tail with a wand where their life is thought to lye till they be almost dead then they gagg their mouth with a whole Nutmeg and stop every oilet-hole with a clove afterwards they cast them into oil and malmsie boiling together casting in after them some crumbs of bread a few almonds blancht and minced whereby their malignity is corrected and their flesh bettered Cajus Hercius was the first that ever hem'd them in ponds where they multiplied and prospered in such sort that at Caesar the Dictators triumphall suppers he gave him six thousand Lampreys for each supper he fed them with the liver and blood of beasts but Vidius Pollio a Roman Knight and one of Augustus minions fed his Lampreys with his slaves carcasses not because beasts were not sufficient to feed them but that he took a pleasure to see a thousand Lampreys sucking altogether like horse-leeches upon one man Concerning our English preparation of them a certain friend of mine gave me this Receit of bakeing and dressing Lampreys namely first to pouder them after parboiling with salt time origanum then either to broil them as Spitchcocks or to bake them with wine pepper nutmegs mace cloves ginger and good store of butter The little ones called Lamprons are best broild but the great ones called Lampreys are best baked Of all our English Lampreys the Severn-dweller is most worthily commended for it is whiter purer sweeter and fatter and of less malignity then any other Lochae Loches meat as the Greek word importeth for women in child-bed are very light and of excellent nourishment they have a flesh like liver and a red spleen which are most delicate in taste and as wholesome in operation Apuae Cobitae Gesneri Aliniatae Caij Phoxini Bellonij Minoes so called either for their littleness or as Dr. Cajus imagined because their fins be of so lively a red as if they were died with the true Cinnabre-lake called Minium They are less then Loches feeding upon nothing but licking one another Gesner thinks them to engender of the wast seed of Gudgins others that they engender of themselves out of unknown matter yet certain it is that they are ever full of spawn which should argue a natural copulation of them with some littlefish or other they are a most delicate and light meat their gall being warily voided without breaking either fried or sodden Mulli Mullets of the River be of like goodness with the Sea-Mullets though not fully of so fine and pure substance Philoxenus the Poet supping at the lower mess in Dionisius Court took suddenly a little leane Mullet out of the dish and set his ear to the mouth of it whereat Dionysius laughing and asking him what newes marry quoth he he tells me of some strange newes in the River whereof none as he saith can more fully enform me then yonder great Mullet in the upper dish so for his pleasant jest he got the greater and withall gives us to note that unless a Mullet be large and fat it is but a frivolous dish making a great shew on the Table but little nourishing how they are best to be drest is already specified when I wrote of Breams Vetulae Olaffes or rather Old wives because of their mumping and soure countenance are as dainty and wholesome of substance as they are large in body it was my chance to buy one about Putny as I came from Mr. Secretary Walsingham his house about ten years since which I caused to be boild with salt wine and vinegar and a little thime and I protest that I never did eat a more white firm dainty and wholesome fish Percae Perches are a most wholesome fish firm tender white and nourishing Ausonius calleth them delicias mensae the delight of feasts preferring them before Pikes Roches Mullets and all other fish Eobanus Hessus in his poetical Dietary termeth them the River-partridges Diocles the Physitian writ a just volumn in the praise of Perches and Hippocrates and Galen most highly extoll them They are ever in season save in March and April when they spawne As the oldest and greatest Eele is ever best so contrariwise the middle Perch and Pike is ever most wholesome Seeth them in wine-vinegar water and salt and then either eat them hot or cover them in wine-vinegar to be eaten cold for so they both cool a distempered feverous stomach and give also much nourishment to a weak body Lupi Pikes or River-wolves are greatly commended by Gesner and divers learned Authors for a wholesom meat permitted yea enjoined to sick persons and women in child bed yet verily to speak like a Lawyer I cannot perceive quo warranto for if fenney or muddy-rivered fishes be unwholesome the Pike is not so good as Authors make him living most naturally and willingly in such places where he