and so called in memory of the most famous Dauid Bishop of Meneura was in great esteeme where in a frequent Synod there holden he refuted the Pelagian Heresie sprung vp againe in Britaine both by the authoritie of holy Scripture and also by miracle as is reported while the earth whereon he stood and preached rose vp vnto a certaine height vnder his feet 8 The Shires diuision for businesses belonging either to the Crowne or Common-wealth is into fiue Hundreds wherein are seated for 〈…〉 and sixtie foure Parish-Churches for Gods diuine and daily seruice CAERMARDEN-SHIRE CHAPTER VI. CAERMARDEN-SHIRE so called from the chiefe Towne Caermarden lieth bordered vpon the North with Cardigan-shire vpon her East by Brecknock and Glamorgan-shires vpon the South with a Bay of the British Seas and vpon the West with Pembroke-shire 2 The forme of this County is long and shooteth it selfe from the South-west into the North and by-East betwixt whose furthest bounds are thirtie fiue English miles and in her broadest part twentie miles the whole in circumferance about one hundred and two miles 3 This Shire is not altogether so pestred with hils as her bordering neighbours are and those that she hath neither so high nor so thicke and therefore is better for Corne and Pasturage yea and in Woods also so that for victuals this Countie is very well stored which the stomacke doth as well disgest the aire being wholesome temperate and pleasing 4 Anciently these parts were possessed by the Diâ—â—â—tree as Ptolemie Gildas and Ninius doe name them though Plinie holds opinion that they were part of the Silures with whom no doubt they were subdued to the Romans yoke by 〈…〉 when he struggled with the rockie hils in those Southerne parts And this Countie is 〈…〉 by Writers to be the very strength of South Wales In the West thereof at Kilmanâ—â— as it 〈◊〉 seeme their Legions kept where lately an earthen Poâ— hoarded with store of 〈◊〉 Coines was by the spade digged vp being stamped vpon imbased siluer from the time of Coâ—â—â—odus vnto the first Tribuneship of Gordian the third which fell in the yeare of Christ two hundred â—â—â—tie three and amongst these were the Coines of Heluins Pertinax Marcuâ— Opellius Antonius Diâ—â—â—menianus Iulius Verus Maximus the sonne of Maximuâ— of Calius Balbinus of Clodius Pupienus of Aquilta Senera the wife of Helingabaâ—â— and of Sall-Barbia Orbiâ—na peeces rarely found 5 The commodities of this Shire chiefly consist in Cattle Pit-coale Fowle and Sea-fish whereof the Salmon is common among them and that of such greatnesse and plentie as no place is better furnished therewith then the Shire-Towne Caermarden is 6 Which Towne by Ptolemie is called Maridunum by Antonius the Empeâ—our Mâ—ridunum by the Britaines Caer-fridhin and by vs Caermarden It is pleasantly seated vpon the South-west side of the Riuer Touy that runneth thorow the middest of this Shire and falleth South from hence into the British Sea where before times was a conuenient Hauen for Ships 〈◊〉 but now is sore pestred with Sands and Shelfes notwithstanding some small Vessels ascend vp the Riuer euen vnto the Bridge of this Towne which is fairely built of free-stone And ouer the same vpon a hanging Rocke standeth a very large Castle from whose stone-wall another intermingled with bricke rangeth about the Towne being in circuit one thousand and foure hundred pases The Inhabitants of this place doe not a little glory of their Merlin who at they say was therein borne the sonne of a bad Angell or of an Incubus spirit the 〈◊〉 great Apollo whom Geffrey ap Arthur would ranke with the South saying Seer or rathe◠〈◊〉 true Prophets themselues being none other then a meere Seducer and phantasticall Wizard 〈◊〉 howsoeuer Alani de Insulis in his Commentaries hath labourered to vnlocke those darke and hidden 〈◊〉 wherewith his booke is pestred and full yet was it not without cause forbid the reading by 〈◊〉 Councell of Trent as vaine and not worthy of countenance or credit At the entrance of the Normans this Towne was brought vnâ—â— their obedience and for a long time was distressed with the calamities of warre yet afterwards it is made by the English Princes the Chaucdry and Exchequer for all South-Wales and at this day is yearely gouerned by a Maior who euer after is an Alderman and Iustice of the Peace two Sheriffes elected out of sixteene Burgesses all of them in skarlet a Sword-bearer a Towne-Clerke and two Sergeants with Maces from whence the Pole is raised 52. degrees 15. minutes in Latitude and for Longitude is in the degree 15. and 30. minutes from the first point in the West according to Mercator 7 East from this place are the ruines of Carreg-Castle which stood mounted on a high hill vnder the which many vaults and spacious Caues farre into the ground are seene wherein is thought the people vnable to fight were therein secured in time of their Warres Where also is a Well take the report from Giraldus who writeth it that in this place twice in foure and twentie houres ebbing and twice flowing resembleth the vnstable motions of the maine Sea GLAMORGAN-SHIRE CHAPTER VII GLAMORGAN-SHIRE as some thinke named from Prince Morgan the possessor thereof or according to others is taken from Morgan an Abbey founded by William Earle of Glocester vpon the Sea-shoare in the South of this Shire lyeth bounded vpon that part altogether with the British Sea the West by Loghor is parted from Caermarden-shire the North butteth vpon the Countie of Breknâ—ck and the East by Remney is diuided from Monmouth 2 The forme of this Shire groweth still wider from her West-point spreaking her broadest touch in the East betwixt which extreames I finde by measure to be well-neere fortie English miles and from North to South not altogether twentie miles the whole in circumference about one hundred and twelue miles 3 The aire is temperate and giues moâ—â—â—ntent to the minde then the soile doth fruit or ease vnto Trauellers The hils being high and 〈◊〉 which from the North notwithstanding are lessened as it were by degrees and towards 〈◊〉 Sea-coasts the Country becommeth somewhat plaine which part is the best both for plentieâ—â— Graine and populous of Inhabitants The rest all Mountaine is replenished with 〈◊〉 which is the best meanes vnto wealth that this Shire doth affoord vpon whose Hils you may â—â—hold whole Heards of them feeding and from whose Rockes most cleare springing waters 〈◊〉 the vallies trickling which sportingly doe passe with a most pleasant sound and did not a little 〈◊〉 my wearied spirits among those vast Mountaines imployed in their search whose infancie at first admitted an easie step ouer but growne vnto strength more boldly forbade me such passage and with a more sterne countenance held on their iourney vnto the British Seas and Taue among these is accounted for a chiefe 4 Vpon whose fall and East-banke the fairest Towne of all South-Wales is seated the 〈◊〉 Caerdid the English Caerdiffe which Fitz-Haimon
impeach his designes and further at Stanes a Maire-stone once stood for a marke of Iurisdiction that London had so farre vpon Thamesis 7 Which Citie is more ancient then any true record beareth fabuled from Brute Troynouant from Lud Ludstone But by more credible Writers Tacitus Ptolemy and Antonine Londinium by Aminianâ—â— Mercellinus for her successiue prosperitie Augusta the greatest title that can be giuen to any by Britaines Londayn by Strangers Londra and by vs London This Citie doth shew as the Cedars among other trees being the seat of the British Kings the chamber of the English the modell of the Land and the Mart of the world for thither are brought the silke of Asia the spices from Africa the Balmes from Grecia and the riches of both the Indies East and West no Citie standing so long in same nor any for diuine and politicke gouernment may with her be compared Her walls were first set by great Constantine the first Christian Emperour at the suit of his mother Qu Helen reared with rough stone and British Bricke three English miles in compasse thorow which are now made seauen most faire gates besides three other passages for entrance Along the Thamesis this wall at first ranged and with two gates opened the one Doure-gate now Dowgate and the other Billinsgate a receptacle for Ships In the midst of this wall was set a mile-marke as the like was in Rome from whence were measured their stations for carriage or otherwise the same as yet standeth and hath beene long knowne by the name of London Stone Vpon the East of this Citie the Church of S. Peters is thought to be the Cathedrall of Restitus the Christians Bishops See who liued in the raigne of Great Constantine but since S. Pauls in the West part from the Temple of Diana assumed that dignitie whose greatnesse doth exceed any other at this day and spires so high that twice it hath beene consumed by lightning from heauen Besides this Cathedrall God is honoured in one hundred twentie one Churches more in this Citie that is ninetie six within the wals sixteene without but within the Liberties and nine more in her Suburbs and in Fâ—z Stephens time thirteene Conuents of religious Orders It is diuided into 26 Wards gouerned by so many graue Aldermen a Lord Maior and two Sherifs the yearely choice whereof was granted them by Patent from King Iohn in whose time also a Bridge of stone was made ouer Thames vpon nineteene Arches for length breadth beautie and building the like againe not found in the world 8 This London as it were disdaning bondage hath set her selfe on each side far without the walls and hath lefther West-gate in the midst from whence with continuall buildings still affecting greatnesse she hath continued her streets vnto a Kings Palace and ioyned a second Citie to her selfe famous for the Seat and Sepulchre of our Kings and for the Gates of Iustice that termely there are opened onely once a Bishops See whose title died with the man No walls are set about this Citie and those of London are left to shew rather what it was then what it is Whose Citizens as the Lacedemonians did doe impute their strength in their men and not in their wals how strong toeuer Or else for their multitude cannot be circulated but as another Ierusalem is inhabited without walls as Zachary said The wealth of this Citie as Isay once spake of Nilus growes from the Reuenewes and haruest of her South-bounding Thames whose traffique for merchandizing is like that of Tyrus whereof Ezekiel speakes and stands in abundance of Siluer Iron Tinne and Lead c. And from London her channell is nauigable straitned along with medowing borders vntill she taketh her full libertie in the German Seas Vpon this Thamesis the Ships of Tharsis seeme to ride and the Nauy that rightly is termed the Lady of the Sea spreads her saile Whence twice with luckie successe hath beene accomplished the compassing of the vniuersall Globe This Riuer Canutus laying siege against London sought by digging to diuert and before him the Danes had done great harmes in this Citie yet was their State recouered by King Elfred and the Riuer kept her olde course notwithstanding that cost In the times of the Normans some ciuill broiles haue beene attempted in this Citie as in the dayes of King Iohn whereinto his Barons entred and the Tower yeelded vnto Lewis And againe Wat Tyler herein committed outragious cruelties but was worthily struck downe by the Maior and slaine in Smithfield This Cities graduation for Latitude is the degree 51. 45. minutes and in Longitude 20. degrees 39. minutes 9 In this Countie at Barnet vpon Easter-day a bloudy battell was fought betwixt Henry the sixt and Edward the fourth wherein were slaine one Marques one Earle three Lords and with them ten thousand Englishmen ESSEX CHAPTER XV. ESSEX by the Normans exsessa and by the vulgar Essex is a Countie large in compasse very populous and nothing inferiour to the best of the Land 2 The â—orme thereof is somewhat Circular excepting the East part which shooteth her selfe with many Promontories into the Sea and from Horsey Iland to Haidon in the West the broadest part of the Shire are by measure fortie miles and the length from East-Haâ—â— vpon Thamesis in the South to Sâ—urmere vpon the Riuer Stow in the North are thirtie-fiue miles the whole in Circumference one hundred fortie sixe miles 3 It lyeth bounded vpon the North with Suffolke and Cambridge-Shires vpon the West with Hertford and Middlesex vpon the South by Thamesis is parted from Kent and the East-side thereof is altogether washed with the German Sea 4 The ayre is temperate and pleasant onely towards the waters somewhat aguish the soile is rich and fruitfull though in some places sandy and barren yet so that it neuer frustrates the husbandmans hopes or fils not the hands of her haruest-labourers but in some part so fertile that after three yeares glebe of Saffron the Land for 18. more will yeeld plentie of Barley without either dung or other fatning earth 5 Her ancient Inhabitants knowne to the Romanes were by Caesar called the Trinobants of whom in the former Chapter we haue spoken and in our History shall speake more at large But this name perished with the age of the Empire the Saxons presently framed a new and with Hertford and Middlesex made it their East-Saxons Kingdome vntill that Egbert brought this and the whole into an entire and absolute Monarchy the Daues after them laid so sore for this Prouince that at â—eamfleet and Hauenet now Shobery they fortified most strongly and at Barklow besides the hils mounted for their burials the Danewort with her red beryes so plentifully grow that it is held and accounted to spring from the bloud of the Danes which in that place was spilt and the hearb as yet is called from them the Danes-bloud neither yet were they quelled to surcease that quarrell but at Ashdowne
This City was first won from the Britaine 's by Cheulin the first King of the West-Saxons about the yeare of Christ 570. and afterwards vnder the Mercians it flourished with great honour where Ofâ—â—k King of Northumberland by the sufferance of Ethelred of Mercia founded a most stately Monastery of Nunnes whereof Kineburgh Eadburgh and Eue Queenes of the Mercians were Prioresses successiuely each after other 7 Edelsted a most renowned Lady sister to King Edward the elder in this Citie built a faire Church wherein her selfe was interred which being ouerthrowne by the Danes was afterwards rebuilt and made the Cathedrall of that See dedicated vnto the honour of S. Peter In this Church the vnfortunate Prince King Edward the second vnder a Monument of Alablaster doth lye who being murdered at Barkley Castle by the crueltie of French Isabel his wife was there intombed And not farre from him another Prince as vnfortunate namely Robert Curthole the eldest sonne of William the Conquerour lyeth in a painted woodden Tombe in the middest of the Quire whose eyes were pluckt out in Cardiffe Castle wherein he was kept prisoner twenty six yeares with all contumelious indignities vntill through extreame anguish he ended his life And before any of these in this Citie say our British Historians the body of Lucius our first Christian King was interred and before his dayes the Britaines Aruiragus The graduation of this County I obserue from this Citie whence the Pole is eleuated in the degree of Latitude 52 and 14. minutes and in Longitude from the West 18. and 5. minutes 8 The other Citie is Pristow faâ—re but not very ancient built vpon the Riuers Auon and Froome for trade of Merchandize a second London and for beautie and account next vnto Yorke This Citie standeth partly in this Countie and partly in Sommerset shire but being a Countie of it selfe will acknowledge subiection to neither 9 A Citie more ancient hath beene Ciâ—cester by Ptolomie called Corinium by Antonine Duroâ—â—â—noâ—ium by Giraldus Passerum Viâ—em The Sparrowes Citie vpon a flying report that Guâ—mund a Tyrant from Africks besieging this Citie tyed fire vnto the wings of Sparrowes who lighting in the Towne vpon light matter set flame vpon all The circuit of whose walâ— extended two miles about wherein the Consular Port or wayes of the Romans met and crossed each other This Citie was wonne from the Britaine 's by Cheulin first King of the West-Saxons afterwards it was possessed by the Mercians and lastly by the Danes vnder Gurmund the former no doubt mistaken for him wherein a rable of them kept the space of a yeare Anno 879. and neuer since inhabited according to the circuit of her walles 10 Places of memorable note are these the Iland Alâ—ey neere vnto Glocester wherein Edmund Iron-side the English and Canutus the Dane after many battles and bloud fought in single Combat hand to hand alone vntill they compounded for the Kingdomes partition Barkley Castle where King Edward the second was thorow his fundament runne into his bowels with a red burning Spit Tewkesbury the fatall period of King Henry the sixt his gouernment and the wound of the Lancastrian Cause for in a Battle there fought in Anno 1471. Prince Edward the onely Sonne of King Henry had his braines dashed out in a most shamefull manner the Queene his mother taken prisoner and most of their fauorites slaine and beheaded And at Alderley a little Towne standing eight miles from the Seuerne vpon the hilles to this day are found Cockles Periwincles and Oysters of solid stone which whether they haue beene Shel-fish and liuing creatures or else the sports of Nature in her workes let the Naturall Philosophers dispute of and judge 11 The places of pietie set apart from other worldly Seruices and dedicated to religious vses by the deuotions of Princes erected in this Shire were Tewkesbury Deorhust Glocester Minching Barkley Kinswood Circester Winchcombe and Hales which last was built with great cost by Richard Earle of Cornwall King of the Romans wherein himselfe and his Dutchesse were interred Their son Earle Edmund brought out of Germany the bloud of Hales supposed and said to be part of that which Christ shed vpon his Crosse In this place with great confluence and deuotions of Pilgrimage it was sought to and worshipped till time proued it a meere counterfeit when the glorious light of the Gospell reuealed to eye-sight such grosse Idolatâ—ies and the skirts of Superstition were turned vp to the shew of her owne shame 12 Dukes and Earles that haue borne the title of Glocester the first of euery Family art by their Armes and Names expressed euer fatall to her Dukes though the greatest in bloud and birth The first was Thomas Woodstocke sonne to King Edward the third who in Caâ—â—is was smoothered in a Feather-bed to death The second was Humfrey brother to King Henry the fift by the fraudulent practise of the malignant Cardinall and Queene made away at S. Edmundsbury And the last was Richard brother to King Edward the fourth who by the iust hand of God was cut off in Battle by King Henry the seauenth HEREFORD-SHIRE CHAPTER XXIIII HEREFORD-SHIRE formerly accounted within the limits of Wales lyeth circulated vpon the North with Worcester and Shrop-shire vpon the East with Maluerne Hils is parted from Glocester-shire vpon the South is kept in with Monmouth-shire and vpon the West in part with the Hatterall Hilles is diuided from Brecknok and the rest confined with Radnorshire 2 This Counties Climate is most healthfull and temperate and Soyle so fertile for Corne and Cattle that no place in England yeeldeth more or better conditioned sweet Riuers running as veynes in the body doe make the Corne bearing grounds in some of her parts rightly to be tearmed the Gilden Vale and for Waters Wooll and Wheate doth contend with Nilus Colchos and Egypt such are Lemster Irchenfeild the bankes of Wye Luge and Frome 3 The ancient people knowne to the Romanes whose power they well felt before they could subdue them were the Silures placed by Ptolemie in this tract and branched further into Radnor Brecknok Monmouth and Glamorgan-shires at this day by vs called South-Wales and by the Welsh Debeubarth Their Originall as Tacitus coniectureth by their site coloured countenances and curled haire was out of Spaine and as both he and Plinie describes them were fierce valiant and impatient of seruitude which well they shewed vnder Caraâ—â—cus their Captaine and nine yeares scourge to the Roman assaulters for whose onely Conquest and that made by treachery the Victor in Rome triumphed with more then a vsuall Aspect and with so equall an hand bare the Scoale of Resistance that their owne Writers euermore terme it a dangerous Warre For the Legion of Marius Valens they put to flight and that with such hauock of the Associates that Osterius the Lieutenant of Britaine for very griefe gaue vp his ghost and Veranius vnder Nero assaulted them in vaine But when Vespasian was
Segontians who yeelded themselues to Iulius Caesar and whose chiefe Citie was Vindonum Caer Segonte now Silcester and vpon the South by the Belga and Regni who were subdued by Plausius and Vespasian the Romans where Titus rescuing his Father straitly besieged by the Britaines as Dio and Forcatulus doe report was grasped about with an Adder but no hurt to his person and therefore taken for a signe of good lucke Their chiefe Towne was Rincewood as yet sounding the name and more within Land inhabited the Manures as Beda cals them whose Hundreds also to this day giue a relish of their names 7 Neere Ringwood and the place once Yâ—ENâ— from God and peoples seruice to Beast and luxury thirtie-sixe Parish-Churches were conuerted and pulled downe by the Conquerour and thirtie miles of circuit inforrested for his game of Hunting wherein his sonnes Richard and Rufus with Henry the second sonne to Duke Robert his first felt by hasty death the hand of Iustice Reuenge for in the same Forrest Richard by blasting of a pestilent ayre Rufus by shot taken for a beast and Henry as Absalom hanged by a bough came to their vntimely ends At so deare a rate the pleasures of dogs and harbour for beasts were bought in the bloud of these Princes 8 The generall commodities gotten in this Shire are Woolls Clothes and Iron whereof great store is therein wrought from the Mines and thence transported into all parts of this Realme and their Clothes and Karsies carried into many forraine Countries to that Countries great benefit and Englands great prayse 9 The Trade thereof with other prouisions for the whole are vented thorow eighteene Market-Townes in this Shire whereof Winchester the Britaines Caer Gwent the Romans Venta Belgarum is chiefe ancient enough by our British Historians as built by King Rudhudibras nine hundred yeares before the Natiuitie of Christ and famous in the Romans times for the weauings and embroderies therein wrought to the peculiar vses of their Emperours owne persons In the Saxons time after two Calamities of consuming fire her walles was raised and the Citie made the Royall Seate of their West-Saxons Kings and the Metropolitan of their Bishops See wherein Egbert and 〈◊〉 their most famous Monarchs were Crowned and Henry the third the Normans longest 〈◊〉 first tooke breath And here King Aethelstane erected six houses for his Mintâ— but the Danish desolution ouer-running all this Citie felt their fury in the dayes of King Ethelbright and in the Normans time twice was defaced by the mis-fortune of fire which they againe repaired and graced with the trust of keeping the publike Records of the Realme In the ciuill warres of Maud and Stephen this Citie was sore sacked but againe receiuing breath was by King Edward the third appointed the place for Mart of Wooll and Cloth The Cathedrall Church built by Kenwolf King of the West-Saxons that had beene Amphibalus S. Peters Swithins and now holy Trinitie is the Sanctuarie for the ashes of many English Kings for herein great Egbert Anno 836. with his sonne King Ethelwolfe 857. Here Elfred Oxfords founder 901 with his Queene Elswith 904. Here the first Edmund before the Conquest 924. with his sonnes Elfred and Elsward Here Edred 955. and Edwy 956 both Kings of England Here Emme 1052. with her Danish Lord Canute 1035. and his sonne Hardicanute 1042. And here lastly the Normans Richard and Rufus 1100. were interred their bones by Bishop Fox were gathered and shrined in little guilt coffers fixed vpon a wall in the Quire where still they remaine carefully preserued This Cities situation is fruitfull and pleasant in a vally vnder hils hauing her River on the East and Castle on the West the circuit of whose walls are well neere two English miles containing one thousand eight hundred and eightie paces thorow which openeth sixe gates for entrance and therein are seauen Churches for diuine Seruice besides the Minister and those decayed such as Callender â—uell Chappell S. Maries Abbey and the Friers without in the Suburbes and Sooâ—â— in the East is S. Peters and in the North Hyde Church and Monasterie whose ruines remaining shew the beautie that formerly it bare The Graduation of this Citie by the Mathematickes is placed for Latitude in the degree 51. 10. minutes and for Longitude 19. 3. minutes 10 More South is South-hampton a Towne populous rich and beautifull from whom the whole Shire deriueth her name most strongly walled about with square stone containing in circuit one thousand and two hundred paces hauing seauen Gates for entrance and twentie-nine Towres for defence two very stately Keyes for Ships arriuage and fiue faire Churches for Gods diuine seruice besides an Hospitall called Gâ—ds house wherein the vnfortunate Richard Earle of Cambridge beheaded for treason lieth interred On the West of this Towne is mounted a most beautifull Castle in forme Circular and wall within wall the foundation vpon a hill so topped that it cannot be ascended but by staires carrying a goodly prospect both by Land and Sea and in the East without the walles a goodly Church sometimes stood called S Maries which was pulled downe for that it gaue the French direction of course who with fire had greatly endangered the Towne in stead thereof is newly erected a small and vnfinished Chappell In this place saith learned Cambden stood the ancient Clausentium or fort of the Romans whose circuit on that side extended it selfe to the Sea this suffered many depredations by the Saxon Pirates and in Anno 980. was by the Danes almost quite ouerthrowne In King Edward the thirds time it was fired by the French vnder the Conduct of the King of Sicils sonne whom a Country man encountred and strucke downe with his Club He crying Rancon that is Ransome but he neither vnderstanding his language nor the Law that Armes doth allow laid on more soundly saying I know thee a Frankon and therefore shalt thou dit and in Richard the seconds time it was somewhat remoued and built in the place where now it standeth In this Clausentium Canute to euict his flatterers made triall of his Deitie commanding the Seas to keepe backe from his seat but being not obeyed he acknowledged God to be the onely supreame Gouernour and in a religious deuotion gaue vp his Crowne to the Rood at Winchester More ancient was Silcester built by Constantius great Constantines sonne whose Monument they say was seene in that Citie and where another Constantine put on the purple roabe against Honoâ—â—â— as both Niâ—ius and Geruase of Canterbury doe witnesse Herein by our Historians record the warlike Arthur was Crowned Whose greatnesse for circuit contained no lesse then fourescore Acres of ground and the walles of great height yet standing two miles in compasse about This Citie by the Danish Rouers suffred such wracke that her mounted tops were neuer since seene and her Hulke the wals in mured to the middle in the earth which the rubbish of her owne desolations hath filled VVIGHT
Market-place doth compare with the best Many strange Vaults hewed out of the Rockes in this Towne are seene and those vnder the Castle of an especiall note one for the story of Christs Passion engrauen in the Walls and cut by the hand of Dauid the second King of Scots whilst he was therein detained prisoner Another wherein Lord Mortimer was surprised in the non-age of King Edward the Third euer since beating the name of Mortimers Hole these haue their staires and seuerall roomes made artifically euen out of the Rockes as also in that hill are dwelling houses with winding staires windowes chimneys and roome aboue roome wrought all out of the solide Rocke The Castle is strong and was kept by the Danes against Burthred Ethelred and Elfred the Mercian and West-Saxon Kings who together laid their siege against it and for the further strength of the Towne King Edward surnamed the Elder walled it about whereof some part as yet remaines from the Castle to the West-gate and thence the foundation may be perceiued to the North where in the midst of the way ranging with this banke stands a gate of Stone and the same tract passing along the North part may well be perceiued the rest to the Riuer and thence to the Castle are built vpon and thereby buried from sight whose circuit as I tooke it extendeth two thousand one hundred and twentie pases 7 In the Warres betwixt Stephen and Maud the Empresse by Robert Earle of Glocester these Wells were east downe when also the Towne it selfe suffered the calamitie of fire but recouered to her former estate hath since increased in beautie and wealth and at this day is gouerned by a Maior and sixe Aldermen clad in Scarlet two Sheriffes two Chamberlaines a Towne-clerke and sixe Sergeants with Maces their Attenders whose position hath the Pole eleuated fiftie three degrees 25. minutes in Latitude and hath the Meridian nine degrees and 25. minutes This Towne hath beene honoured by these Princes titles and these Princes dignified with the Earledome of Nottingham whose seuerall Armes and Names are in the great Map expressed Religious houses that haue beene erected and now suppressed in the compasse of this Countie chiefly were Newsted Lenton Shelford Southwell Thurgarton Blith Welbeck and Radford in Nottingham the White and Gray Fryers besides a little Chappell dedicated to Saint Iohn All which shew the deuotions of those former times which their remembrance may moue if not condemne vs that haue more knowledge but farre lesse pietie DARBY-SHIRE CHAPTER XXXIII DARBY-SHIRE lyeth inclosed vpon her North parts with Yorke-shire vpon the East with Nottingham-shire vpon the South with Leicester-shire and vpon the West is parted with the Riuers Doue and Goyt from Stafford and Chesse-shires 2 It is in forme somewhat triangle though not of any equall distance growing from her narrow South-point still wider and in the North is at the broadest for from Stretton neere the head of Mese to New-Chapell seated neere the head of Derwent the two extreames from North to South are thirtie eight miles but from the Shire-Oakes vnto the meeting of Mersey and Goyt the broadest part of all this Shire is not fully twentie nine the whole in circumference extendeth to an hundred and thirtie miles 3 The ayre is good and very healthfull the sile is rich especially in her South and East parts but in the North and West is hilly with a blacke and mossie ground both of them fast handed to the Ploughers paines though very liberall in her other gifts whose natures thus dissenting the Riuer Derwent doth diuide asunder that taketh course thorow the heart or midst of this Countie The ancient people that possessed these parts in the times of the Romans assaults were the Coritani whom Ptolemie disperseth thorow Northampton-shire Leicester Rutland Lincolne Nottingham and this Shire who were all of them subdued by P. Ostorius Scapula Lieutenant in this Prouince for Claudius the Emperour But Romes Empire failing in Britaine by the intestine Warres among themselues the Saxons a more sauage and fearefull Nation soone brought it vnder their subiection and made this a Prouince vnto their Mercians Kingdome whom the West-Saxons first wanne and againe lost to the Normans 5 It is stored with many Commodities and them of much worth for besides Woods and Cattle Sheepe and Corne euery where ouer-spreading the face of this Countie the Mill-stone Crystall and Allablasâ—er the Mines of Pit-coale Iron and Lead are of great price whereof the last is mentioned in Flinie who writeth that in Britaine in the very crust of the ground without any deepe digging is gotten so great store of Lead that there is a Law expresly made of purpose forbidding men to make more then to a certaine stint Whose stones are plenteously gotten in those Mountaines and melted into Sowes to no small profit of the Countrey There is found also in certaine veines of the earth Subium which the Apothecarits call Antimonium and the Alâ—thmists hold in great esteeme 6 Places for commerce or memorable note the first is Darby the Shire-Towne called by the Danes Deâ—aby seated vpon the West banke of Derwent where also a small Brooke rising Westward runneth thorow the Towne vnder nine Bridges before it meets with her farre greater Riuer Derwent which presently it doth after she hath passed Tenant Bridge in the South-East of the Towne But a Bridge of more beautie built all of Free-stone is passed ouer Derwent in the North-East of the Towne whereon standeth a faire stone Chapell and both of them bearing the names of S. Maries fiue other Churches are in this Towne the chiefest whereof is called Aâ—hallowes whose Steeple or Bell-Tower being both beautifull and high was built onely at the charges of young men and maids as is witnessed by the inscription cut in the same vpon euery square of the Steeple Among the miserable desolations of the Danes this Towne bare a part but by Lady Ethelfleda was againe repaired and is at this day inâ—orporated with the yearely gournment of two Bailiffes elect out of twentie-foure brethren besides as many Burgesses of Common Counsell a Recorder Towne-Clerke and two Sergeants with Mace whose Graduation is obserued from the Equator to be 53. degrees 25. scruples and from the first point in the West 19. degrees 2. scruples 7 Little-Chester by the Romish Mony there daily found seemeth to haue beene ancient and that a Colonie of the Roman Souldiers there lay Yet of farre greater fame was Repandunum now Repton where Ethelbald the ninth King of the Mercians and fifteenth Monarch of the Englishmen slaine at Seggeswald by the treason of his Subiects was interred and whence Burthred the last King of that people was expulsed with his Queene Ethelswith by the rage of the Danes after twentie two yeares raigne But with a more pleasing eye we may behold Melborne the memoriall of Englishmens great valour where in that Castle was kept Prisoner Iohn Duke of Burbon taken captiue in the Battle of Agincourt
was a Colony of the Romanes appeares both by the authoritie of Ptolemy and Antonine and by many ancient Inscriptions that haue beene found there In this Citie the Emperour Seuerus had his Palace and here gaue vp his last breath which ministers occasion to shew the ancient custome of the Romanes in the military manner of their burials His body was caried forth here by the Souldiers to the Funerall fire and committed to the flames honoured with the Iusts and Turnaments both of the Souldiers and of his owne sonnes His ashes bestowed in a little golden pot or vessel of the Prophyrat stone were carryed to Rome and shrined there in the monument of the Antoniâ—s In this Citie as Spartianâ—â—s maketh mention was the Temple of the Goddesse Bellona to which Seuerus being come thither purposing to offer sacrifice was erroneously led by a rusticall Augur Here Fl Velerius Constantinus surnamed Chlorus an Emperour of excellent vertue and Christian pietie ended his life and was Defied as appeares by ancient Coines and his sonne Constantine being present at his Fathers death forthwith proclaimed Emperour from whence it may be gathered of what great estimation Yorke was in those dayes when the Romane Emperours Court was held in it This Citie flourished a long time vnder the English-Saxons Dominion till the Danes like a mightie storme thundring from out the North-East destroyed it and distained it with the bloud of many slaughtered persons and wan it from Osbright and Flla Kings of Northumberland who were both slaine in their pursuite of the Danes which Alcuine in his Epistle to Egelred King of Northumberland seemed to preâ—age before when he said What signifieth that raining downe of bloud in S. Peters Church of Yorke euen in a faire day and descending in so violent and threatning a manner from the top of the roofe may it not be thought that bloud is comming vpon the Land from the North parts Howbeit Atâ—eâ—stane recouered it from the Danish subiection and quite ouerthrew the Castle with the which they had fortified it yet was it not for all this so freed from warres but that it was subiect to the Times fatally next following Neuerthelesse in the Conquerours time when after many woefull ouerthrowes and troublesome stormes it had a pleasant calme of ensuing peace it rose againe of it selfe and flourished afresh hauing still the helping hand both of Nobility and Gentry to recouer the former dignitie and bring it to the perfection it hath The Citizens fenced it round with new wals and many towers and bulwarkes and ordaining good and wholesome lawes for the gouernment of the same Which at this day are executed at the command of a Lord Maior who hath the assistance of twelue Aldermen many Chamberlaines a Recorder a Towne-Clerke sixe Sergeants at Mace and two Esquires which are a Sword-bearer and the Common Sergeant who with a great Mace goeth on the left hand of the Sword The Longitude of this Citie according to Mercators account is 19. degrees and 35. scruples the Latitude 54. degrees and fortie scruples 10 Many occurrents present themselues with sufficient matter of enlargement to this discourse yet none of more worthy consequence then were those seuerall Battles fought within the compasse of this Countie wherein Fortune had her pleasure as well as in the proofe of her loue as in the pursuit of her tyranny sometime sending the fruits of sweet peace vnto her and otherwhiles suffering her to taste the sowrenesse of warre At Conishorough in the Britaine tongue Câ—aer Conan was a great battle fought by Hengist Captaine of the English-Saxons after he had retyred himselfe thither for his safetie his men being fled and scattered and himselfe discomsited by Aâ—relius Ambrosius yet within few dayes after he brought forth his men to battell against the Britaines that pursued him where the field was bloudy both to him and his for many of his men were cut in pieces and he himselfe had his head chopt off as the British History saith which the Chronicles of the English-Saxons deny reporting that he dyed in peace being surcharged and ouer-worne with the troublesome toyles and trauels of warre Neere vnto Kirkstall Oswie King of Northumberland put Penda the Mercian to flight the place wherein the Battle was ioyned the Writers call Winwid Field giuing it the name by the victory And the little Region about it in times past called by an old name Elmet was conquered by Eadwin King of Northumberland the sonne of Aela after he had expelled Cereticus a British King in the yeare of Christ 620. At Casterford called by Antonine Legeolium and Legetium the Citizens of Yorke slew many of King Ethelreds Army and had a great hand against him in so much as he that before state in his throne of Maiestie was on a sodaine daunted and ready to offer submission But the most worthy of memory was that Field fought on Palâ—-Sunday 1461. in the quarrell of Lancaster and Yorke where England neuer saw more puissant Forces both of Gentry and Nobilitie for there were in the field at one time partakers on both sides to the number of one hundred thousand fighting men When the fight had continued doubtfull a great part of the day the Lancastrians not able longer to abide the violence of their enemies turned backe and fled amaine and such as took part with Yorke followed them so hotly in chase and kild such a number of Noble and Gentlemen that thirtie thousand Englishmen were that day left dead in the field 11 Let vs now loose the point of this compasse and saile into some other parts of this Prouince to finde out matter of other memorable moment Vnder Knansbrough there is a Well called Dâ—â—ping-well in which the waters spring not out of the veynes of the earth but distill and trickle downe from the rockes that hang ouer it It is of this vertue and efficacie that it turnes wood into stone for what wood soeuer is put into it will be shortly couered ouer with a stony barke and be turned into stone as hath beene often obserued At Giggleswicke also about a mile from Settle a Market-Towne there are certaine small springs not distant a quaits cast from one another the middlemost of which doth at euery quarter of an houre ebbe and flow about the height of a quarter of a yard when it is highest and at the ebbe falleth so low that it is not an inch deepe with water Of no lesse worthinesse to be remembred is S. Wilfrids Needle a place very famous in times past for the narrow hole in the close vaulted roome vnder the ground by which womens honesties were wont to be tryed for such as were chaste passe through with much facilitie but as many as had plaid false were miraculously held fast and could not creepe through Beleeue if you list The credible report of a Lampe found burning euen in our Fathers remembrance when Abbeyes were pulled downe and suppressed in the Sepulchre of constantius within a
round in compasse and within her wals another mount whereon a Towre of great height and strength is built which was the birth-place of our Conquering Henry the great Triumpher ouer France but now decayed and from a Princely Castle is become no better then a regardlesse Cottage In this Towne a beautifull Church built with three Iles is remaining and at the East end a most curiously built but now decayed Church stands called the Monkes 〈◊〉 In the Monastery whereof our great Antiquarie Geffrey surnamed Munmouth and Ap 〈◊〉 his History of Great Britaineâ— whose paines as they were both learned and great so 〈◊〉 bred great paines among the learned both to defend and to disproue The Townes situation is pleasant and good seated betwixt the Riuers Monnowe and Wye three Gates yet stand besides that Tower or Locke of the Bridge and a Trench or tract of wall running betwixt the â—on each side downe to the Riuer containing in circuit about eight hundred paces The Towne is 〈◊〉 good repayre and well frequented gouerned by a Maior two Bailiffes fifteene Common Councellers a Towne-Clerke and two Sergeants for their Attendance It is in Latitude remoued from the Equator 52. degrees and 8. minutes and from the West point of Longitude is set in the degree 17. 36. minutes Religious Houses erected and suppressed in this Shire for greatest account haue beene in Câ—…â—…on Chepstow Gold-cliffe Munmouth and Llantony which last stood so solitary and among hils that the Sunne was not seene to shine there but onely betwixt the houres of one and three MOVNTGOMERY-SHIRE CHAPTER IX MOVNTGOMERY-SHIRE in the British speech called 〈◊〉 and that of the principall Towne Mountgomery lyeth bounded vpon the North with Denbigh-shire vpon the East with Shrop-shire on the South with Raâ—â—or and Cardigan-shires and on the West with Merioneth-shire 2 In forme it somewhat resembleth a Peare or Pine-apple as it were growing out of the West and rising thence with many high Hilles and plentifull Springâ— which water and make fruitfull the Soyle query where whose searching rilles with a longing desire haste euer forward to finde an increase and to 〈◊〉 theiâ— growth into a bigger body whereof the Sâ—uerne is the chiefe and the second Riuer in the Land whose head rising from the spired mountaine Plymillimon runneth not farre without the receits of other riuerâ—â—â— into her streame and with many wings doth spore her selfe thorow all the East part of this Shire 3 That this Riuer tooke her name from 〈◊〉 the beautifull 〈◊〉 daughter of 〈◊〉 begotten out of wedlock vpon Estrildiâ— the daughter of 〈◊〉 the 〈◊〉 King â—â—â—rinuaded this Land and both of them drowned in this Riuer by Guenâ—â—lena King 〈◊〉 â—â—â—uiuing widow let 〈◊〉 relate and Poets enlarge whereof one among them in good account thus writeth In 〈◊〉 pracipitatur Abren Nomen Abren 〈◊〉 de Virgine 〈…〉 Into this streame faire Abren head-long cast Gaue name of Abren to those waters wast Corruptly call'd Sabrina now at last 4 This Riuer maketh the East part of this Shire for fruitfulnesse to be compared with most of the Land and to exceed any other Shire in Wales the West side is more hilly and lesse inhabited yet surely those mountaines breed innumerable of Cattle especially of horses whose portraiture for making and incomparable swiftnesse Giraldus Cambrensis Arch-deacon of Breknocke doth greatly commend 5 The ancient Inhabitants that were seated in Gwineth and Powisland whereof this Shire was a part were to the Romanes knowne by the name of ORDOVICES a puissant and couragious Nation whose hearts and hilles held them the longest free from the yoke of subiection either of the Romans or English for vnto the dayes of Domitian they kept plea with the Romans 〈◊〉 were not brought to the will of the English before the raigne of King Edward the first Those ORDOVICES inhabited the Counties of Mountgomery Merioneth Caerâ—â—â— Denbigh and Flâ—t which are of vs called now North-Wales a people generous and of affableâ—◠〈◊〉 goodly for feature faire of complexion couragious of minde courteous to strangers and that which is most commendable most true and loyall to the English Crowne Townes for Trades and commerce in this Countie are fix the chiefest thereof and Shire-Towne is Mountgomery very wholesome for ayre and pleasant for situation vpon an easie ascent of an hill and vpon another farre higher mounted stands a faire and well-repaired Castle from the East Rocke whereof the Towne hath beene walled as by some part yet standing and the tract and trench of the rest euen vnto the North-side of the said Castle may euidently be seene whose graduation for Latitude is placed in the degree 53. and for Longitude 17. the lines cutting each other in the site of this Towne This Towne hath lately receiued the honour and Title of an Earledome whereof Philip Herbert the second sonne of Henry Earle of Pembroke was created the first in Anno 1605. And the Shire diuided into seauen Hundreds wherein are seated sixe Market-Townes and fortie seauen Parish-Churches MERIONETH-SHIRE CHAPTER X. MERIONETH-SHIRE which the Britaines call Sira-Verieneth and in Latine Merâ—inia is bordered vpon the North by Carnarâ—â—on and Denbigh-shires vpon the East with Mongomery vpon the South by the Riuer Dowy is parted from Cardigan-shire and the West side altogether washed with the Irish Seas whose rage with such vehemency beateth against her bankes that it is thought and said some quantitie of the Land hath beene swallowed vp by those Seas 2 In forme this Shire somewhat resembleth a Welsh-Harpe though small is the Musicke that to her Inhabitants she makes being the roughest and most vnpleasant to see to as Giraldus their owne Historian writeth in all Wales The ayre for great pleasure nor soyle for great profit I cannot greatly commend vnlesse it be for the many and mightie great winds that for the most part therein doe rage and the spired hils clustered together so neere and so high as the same Author affirmeth that Shepheards vpon their tops falling at oddes in the morning and challenging the field for fight before they can come together to try out the quarrell the day will be spent and the heate of their fury shut vp with their sleepe 3 These mountaines formerly did abound with Wolues for whose auoydeance Hdgar the peaceable did impose as Malmesbury writeth a yearely Tribute of three hundred Wolues vpon Ludwall Prince of that Country whereby in three yeares space they were quite destroyed and now their faces are couered with fruitfull flockes of Sheepe besides Neate and other Cattell that therein abundantly doe grase wherein the onely riches of this Shire doth consist for by reason of the vneuennesse of the soile and rocks so noere the face of the earth the Plough cannot be 〈…〉 Corne prosper which some haue imputed to the idlenesse of the Inhabitants wherein they haue beene greatly wronged 4 These people are a part of the Ordonices of whom we haue spoken who by the aduantage of these mountaines held out with
the longest against the Romanes and their necks not brought vnder the yoke of bondage before the dayes of King Edward the first since when they haue attempted to east off their subiection to the English vpon whose stirres raised by Owin Glendouer who hauing beene a fauorite of King Richard the second and discontented by King Henry the fourth in a quarrell with the Lord Grey of Ruthin that intruded vpon his demaines quarrelled with the King and entred into open rebellion and confederacie with all other his rebels drawing the Welsh-men wholly to his side in hope to haue had Princes restored of their owne bloud and he maintained the same with wonderfull pride policie and obstinacie for a long time vntill his consederates followers and fauorates and his owne courage credit and maintenance were brought so low by that powerfull King that in the end he perished for very want of food 5 Their Townes are not many neither those that they haue of any stately buildings whereof Bala â—olgethe and Harlech are the Markeâ—◠〈…〉 in the North-east of this Countie in the Welsh 〈◊〉 in English Piâ—â—â—le-meane a great poole of water doth drowne at least eight score Acres of ground whose 〈…〉 the high land flouds though neuer so great cannot 〈…〉 bigger by their 〈…〉 but if the 〈◊〉 beâ—â—oubled with ouer great blasts and tempests of wiâ—des she in as great a rage riseth and passeth her bankes as if she would encounter that enemy in fight Into the South whereof the two headed Dee with a pretie sharpe streame entreth and thorow the same glideth without any mixture of the same water as the Inhabitants beleeue more strongly conceited in their opinion for that the Salmon vsually taken in Dee is neuer found in that Poole and the fish called Guimad bred in that Meart neuer is seene in the Riuer Dee South thence neere Dolgelhr in a lower hill a great Rampire of stone and compasse is seene and hath beene some fortification or defence in warre which whilst we were curious to finde out some instructions thereof by report this onely we learned that it was called Caddoryrita Dren according to the name of her neighbour and farre higher hill 6 Vpon the West and Sea-shore of this Shire Harlech a Market and Major Towne standeth bleake enough and barren but onely for Fowle and Fish houses not many neither curiously built wherein standeth a little Chappell decayed and without vse in which lyeth buryed Sir Richard Thimblebye an English Knight who for the delight he tooke in that game remoued his abode from a farre better soyle Here also standeth a most strong and beautifull Castle mounted vpon a hill and with a double Bulwarke walled about commanding the Sea and passage of entrance of such as seeke to inuade the Goast And surely a great pitie it is to see so faire a worke fall to decay the Constable whereof by Patent is euer the Major of this Towne neere vnto which are two great Inlets of Seas which at low water may be passed vpon the Sands with Guides Vpon whose shore as vpon the Sea-coasts in this Countie abundance of Herrings are caught for which cause they are much frequented in the season of the yeare by many people from diuers Countries DENBIGH-SHIRE CHAPTER XI DENBIGH-SHIRE called in Welsh Sire Denbigh retyring more from the Sea within the Countrey on this side of the Riuer Conwey shooteth Eastward in one place as farre as to the Riuer Dee on the North first the Sea for a small space and then Plint-shire encompasseth it on the West Caernaruon and Merioneth-shire on the East Cheshire and Shrop-shire and on the South Mountgomery-shire 2 The forme thereof is long growing wider still towards the North-west and narrower towards the East It is in length from East to West one and thirtie miles and in bredth from North to South seauenteene miles in the whole circuit and circumference one hundred and fourteene miles 3 The ayre is very wholesome and pleasant yet bleake enough as exposed to the windes on all sides and the high hilles wherewith it is in many places enuitoned long retaining the congealed snow The tops whereof in the Summer time are the haruest-mens Almanacks by the rising of certaine vapours thereon in the mornings and foreshew a faire day ensuing 4 The soyle is but barren towards the West part yet the middle where it lieth flat in a valley is most fertile The East side when it is once past the valley findeth Nature to be a very sparing niggard of her sauours but next vnto Dee it feeleth a more liberall extent of her blessings The West part is but here and there inhabited and mounteth vp more then the other with bare and hungry hilles yet the leanesse of the soyle where the hils settle any thing flatting hath beene now a good while begun to be ouercome by the diligent paines and carefull industry of the husbandmen for they paring away the vpper coat of the earth into certaine Turffes with a broad kinde of spade pile them vp artificially on heapes and fire them so as being turned into ashes and throwne vpon the ground so pared they fructifie the hungry barrennesse and sterilitie of soyle and make the fields bring forth a kinde of Rie or Anull-corne in such plentie as is hardly to be beleeued 5 The ancient Inhabitants of this Countrey were the Ordouices who being also named Ordeâ—ices or Ordoâ—icae a puissant and couragious people by reason they kept wholly in a mountainous place and tooke heart euen of the soyle it selfe for they continued longest free from the yoke both of Roman and also of English dominion They were not subdued by the Romans before the dayes of the Emperor Domitian for then Iulius Agricola conquered almost the whole Nation nor brought vnder the command of the English before the raigne of King Edward the first but liued a long time in a lawlesse kinde of libertie as bearing themselues bold vpon their owne magnanimitie and the strength of the Country 6 The Mountaines of this County yeeld sufficiency of Neat Sheepe and Goats The Vallies in most places are very plenteous of Corne especially Eastward on this side betwixt the Riuers of Alen and Dee but the more Westerly part is heathy and altogether barren The heart of the Shire shewes it selfe beneath the hilles in a beautifull and pleasant Vale reaching seauenteene miles in length from South to North and fiue miles or thereabouts in bredth and lieth open onely toward the Sea It is enuironed on euery side with high hilles amongst which the highest is Moâ—llenlly on the top whereof is a warlike Fense with Trench and Rampier and a little fountaine of cleare water From these hilles the Riuer Cluyd resorts vnto this Vale and from the very spring-head increased with beckes and brookes doth part it in twaine running thorow the midst of it whereof in ancient time it was named Strat Cluyd for Mariamâ—s maketh mention of a King of the Strat Cluyd of