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A07834 An itinerary vvritten by Fynes Moryson Gent. First in the Latine tongue, and then translated by him into English: containing his ten yeeres trauell through the tvvelue dominions of Germany, Bohmerland, Sweitzerland, Netherland, Denmarke, Poland, Jtaly, Turky, France, England, Scotland, and Ireland. Diuided into III parts. The I. part. Containeth a iournall through all the said twelue dominions: shewing particularly the number of miles, the soyle of the country, the situation of cities, the descriptions of them, with all monuments in each place worth the seeing, as also the rates of hiring coaches or horses from place to place, with each daies expences for diet, horse-meate, and the like. The II. part. Containeth the rebellion of Hugh, Earle of Tyrone, and the appeasing thereof: written also in forme of a iournall. The III. part. Containeth a discourse vpon seuerall heads, through all the said seuerall dominions. Moryson, Fynes, 1566-1630. 1617 (1617) STC 18205; ESTC S115249 1,351,375 915

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tooke my iourney in the afternoone to Witteberg and came that night to Teben a Village foure miles distant through a Wood so large as wee could not passe it in two houres beyond which the ground was barren till wee passed the Riuer Elue which runneth by Witteberg all the length of it from the East to the West but is somewhat distant from the Towne The next day we passed foure miles to Witteberg which hath his name of Wittekindus the first Christian Duke of Saxony and is seated in a plaine sandy ground hauing on the North Hils planted with Vines yeelding a sower grape plentifully yet they make no wine thereof One streete lies the whole length of the Towne being all the beautie thereof and in the midst of this street is the Cathedrall Church and a faire market place in which the Senate house is built and neere the West gate is the Dukes Church It is prouerbially said that a man shall meet nothing at Witteberg but whores students and swine to which purpose they haue these two Verses Ni Witeberga sues ni plurima scorta teneret Ni pubem Phoebi quaeso quid esset ibi Had Witeberg no swine if no whores were Nor Phoebus traine I pray you what is there Whence may be gathered that the Citizens haue small trafficke liuing only vpon the Schollers and that the streets must needs be filthy In the study of Doctor Wisinbechius this inscription is in Latine Here stood the bed in which Luther gently died See how much they attribute to Luther for this is not the place where hee died neither was there any bed yet suffer they not the least memory of him to be blotted out Luther was borne at Isleb in the yere 1483 certainly died there in the house of Count Mansfield where after supper the seuenteenth of February he fell into his vsuall sickenesse namely the stopping of humors in the Orifice of his belly and died thereupon at fiue of the clocke in the morning the eighteenth of February in the yeere 1546. the said Count and his Countesse and many other being present and receiuing great comfort from his last exhortations yet from his sudden death the malitious Iesuits tooke occasion to slander him as if he died drunken that by aspersions on his life and death they might slander the reformation of Religion which he first began These men after their manner being to coniure an vncleane spirit out of a man in Prage gaue out that he was free from this spirit for the time that Luther died and that when hee returned they examined him where hee had beene that time and the spirit should answere that hee had attended Luther Phillip Melancthon borne in the yeere 1497. died 1560. and both these famous men were buried and haue their Monuments in the Dukes Church at Witteberg which is said to be like that of Hierusalem and in that both of them are round I will not deny it but I dare say they differ in this that Hierusalem Church hath the Chauncell in the middest with Allies to goe round about it whereas the Chancell of this Church is at the East end of it The Wittebergers tell many things of Luther which seeme fabulous among other things they shew an aspersion of inke cast by the Diuell when he tempted Luther vpon the wall in S. Augustines Colledge Besides they shew a house wherein Doctor Faustus a famous coniurer dwelt They say that this Doctor liued there about the yeere 1500. and had a tree all blasted and burnt in the adioyning Wood where hee practised his Magick Art and that hee died or rather was fetched by the Diuell in a Village neere the Towne I did see the tree so burnt but walking at leasure through all the Villages adioyning I could neuer heare any memory of his end Not farre from the City there is a mountaine called the Mount of Apollo which then as of old abounded with medicinable herbes In a Village neere the Towne there be yet many tokens that the Emperour Charles the fifth encamped there I liued at Witteberg the rest of this summer where I paied a Gulden weekely for my diet and beere which they account apart and for my chamber after the rate of tenne Guldens by the yeare I heare that since all things are dearer the Schollers vsing to pay each weeke a Dollor for their diet and a Dollor for chamber and washing Hence I tooke my iourney to Friburge that I might see the funerall of Christianus the Elector Three of vs hired a Coach all this iourney for a Dollor each day with condition that we should pay for the meat of the horses and of the coach-man which cost as much more And this we paied because we had freedome to leaue the coach at our pleasure though we returned with it to Leipzig to which if we would haue tied our selues we might haue had the coach for halfe a Dollor a day The first day wee went sixe miles to Torge through sandy fields yeelding corne and we dined at Belgar a Village where each man paied fiue grosh for his dinner and by the way they shewed vs a Village called Itzan where Luther made his first Sermons of reformation Torge is a faire City of Misen of a round forme falling each way from a mountaine and seated on the West side of Elue It hath a stately Castle belonging to the Elector Duke of Saxony who is Lord of Leipzig Witteberg and all the Cities we shall passe in this iourney This Castle is washed with the Riuer Elue and was built by Iohn Fredricke Elector in the yeere 1535. It hath a winding way or plaine staire by which a horse may easily goe to the top of the Castle the passage being so plaine as the ascent can scarcely be discerned The Hall Chambers and Galleries of this Castle are very faire and beautifull and adorned with artificiall pictures among which one of a boy presenting flowers is fairer then the rest Also there is a picture on the wall of one Laurence Weydenberg a Sweitzer made in the twentieth yeere of his age in the yeere 1531 shewing that he was nine foot high In the Church there is a Monument of Katherine a Nunne which died 1552. and was wife vnto Luther The Village Milburg is within a mile of this City in the way to Dresden where the Elector Fredericke was taken prisone by Charles the fifth in the Protestants warre The lake neere the City is a mile in circuit for the fishing whereof the Citizens pay 500. guldens yeerely to the Elector of Saxony and they fish it once in three yeeres and sell the fish for some 5000. guldens The beare of Torge is much esteemed through all Misen whereof they sell such quantity abroad as ten water-mils besides wind-mils scarcely serue the towne for this purpose From Torge we went six miles to Misen in our Coach hired as aforesaid and we dined each man for fiue grosh in the
to your Dutch Nation Now as soone as I had pitched my tents at Bazell for me thinkes I am one of the Nomades euery day changing my dwelling I thought fit to giue you account of my iourney whereof I am sure you desire to know the successe I will euer be ruled in doubtfull cases by the counsell of so wise and so good a friend as your selfe but you shall neuer more perswade me to take a iourney on foot which I find vnprofitable for my health purse The other day after dinner by your aduice I took my iourney on foot with more sighes then paces came in foure houres with much paine to the little City Eglisaw and comming to the Inne they offered me meat but I did nothing but so crie out for my bed as you would haue said I was the eldest sonne of sloth To be briefe they being slow to satisfie my desire I flung my selfe on the fether bed without sheetes and so at ease supped on the old fashion with the cloth spread on the bed you gaue me a pleasant companion to guide me the way who made it seeme shorter with his good discourse and was very diligent to serue my occasions next morning early by twilight we began our iourney hauing the gates opened for a little reward You may thinke that I was fresh after my nights rest for a new iourney but I rose early onely to be out of my paine By nine of the clocke in the morning we came to the faire City Zurech which seemed fairer to me at the end of my tedious walke presently I ran into my chamber and with like importunity as before obtained my bed to be made the Mercury you gaue to guide me brought me meat plentifully and there we dined together then because he was to returne to Schafhusen that night I gaue him a Gulden for his paines besides paying his charges and fifteene Creitzers of free gift Each of vs went to our taske he as I thought to goe I to sleepe Since I haue begun I will tell you Historically all circumstances so you promise me not to reproue him but rather to salute and thanke him in my name which if you refuse I coniure you on all loue to read no further After foure houres behold this honest man with a garland of roses on his head a glasse and pot in his hands and well armed with drinke entered my chamber I being halfe asleepe wiped my eies as if I had seene a vision till he drinking to me and importuning me to pledge him made mee know it was no apparition we drunke a whole houre together then in good earnest he went away and did nothing to my knowledge more wisely then that being drunken he left his reckoning of forty eight Creitzers to be paid by me who was sober Neither Ceres nor Bacchia could for twenty houres draw me from bed but the next morning I deliuered your betters to Master Doctor S. who vsed me very curteously and presented mee with a Booke he had lately printed So this Comedy is ended onely I will adde the Epilogue Here at Bazell I can get for no money the Booke of Semlerus de Repub. Heluetica which you commended vnto me at last I found it in a friends study who esteemed it as the apple of his eye yet I so preuailed with him as he let me haue it vpon my faithfull promise that because I meant to blot the same with notes I should procure him a new Booke wherein if you doe not disingage mee by sending the same vnto me I shall forfet the small credit of a stranger Farewell good Sir and I pray you let vs not suffer this sparke of our loue to goe out but rather with often writing let vs set all the coale on fire Againe farewell from Bazell the 24. day of May 1902. From Schafhusen I tooke my iourney on foot as is aboue written and went halfe a mile in the territory of that City and a mile and a halfe in the territory of the Count of 〈◊〉 Sweitzer the lands of Zurech lying on the South side from vs and so wee passed through Mountaines yeelding corne and planted with vines and through woods pastures and a large valley of corne and in foure houres space for the miles of Sweitzerland are so long as they reckon the iourneies of horse or foot by the houres and not by the miles came to Eglisaw and entering the same passed the Riuer Rheine by a Bridge where I paide two creitzers for tribute and there I supped for fiue Batzen The next morning I went two miles on foot in six houres space to Zurech through a long wood and hils of corne which they say are often blasted with haile and through wooddy Mountaines and hils of inclosed pastures with store of Vines planted neere the City which is one of the Cantons of Sweitzerland hauing on the West side the Lake called Zurechsea and the Brooke Limachus hauing his head eight miles further on the same side ruuneth into this lake and after comming out diuideth the City into two parts called the greater and the lesse City hauing three bridges for passage the greater where of the Merchants vse for their meetings The foresaid Lake is three miles long and hath on each side pleasant hils planted with Vines The foresaid Brooke neere the City beareth onely small boates and is all taken vp with water mils but aboue towards the Alpes is deeper and below neere Baden runneth into the Rheine The streetes of Zurech are narrow and the Houses builded of timber and clay and the City it selfe is seated vpon and betweene hils which on the East side of the Brooke grow higher from it On the North-west side is a pleasant Mountaine and a faire meadow for shooting with gunnes and other exercises wherein is a faire Lynden or teyle tree yeelding large and sweet shadow where the Citizens meete to recreate themselues and to feast together The Armes of the City are a Man and Woman called Falix Regula without the City on the South is the foresaid Lake and beyond it the Alpes couered with snow On the West side is a plaine and the Mountaines farre off but on the North and East sides the Mountaines lie neere The Citizens haue a custome that when they goe forth against the enemy they place the Ministers or Pastors in the front or where they may partake the danger and there is a place two miles from the City towards Lucerna where Zwinglius a famous Preacher and reformer of Religion was killed in the field Here I paid each meale six batzen I rode three miles to Baden in three houres and so hired my Horse as besides the price of six or seuen batzen the day I paid as much for the daies in which he returned and also paid the hire and charges of one to bring him backe Most part of our way was in the territory of Zurech through hils of corne and vines and a
said before that the boats and barkes comming downe are sold at the end of the way because they cannot be brought vp against the streame Brisake is seated vpon a round and high Mountaine and though it bee improbable that there should be any want of waters so neere the foot of the Alpes yet this City hath a fountaine where water is sold and a certaine price is giuen for the watering of euery beast VVe passed the other eight miles to Strasburg the same day in eight houres being helped with the same swiftnesse of the Rheine which being oft diuided by the way makes many little Ilands The bridge of Strasburg ouer the Rheine is more then a Musket shot from the City on the East side therof The bridge is of wood and hath threescore fiue Arches each distant from the other twenty walking paces and it is so narrow that an horse-man can hardly passe by a cart it lying open on both sides and it is built of small pieces of timber laid a crosse which lye loose so as one end being pressed with any weight the other is lifted vp with danger to fall into the water It is like they build no stronger bridge either because they haue tryed that the swift course of the Rheine will easily breake it downe or because in the time of warre it may be good for them to breake it in which case it were farre greater charge to rebuild it with stone then with wood The Rheine lying thus farre off from the City the boats are brought vp to the same by a little channell The brookes of Bress and Elb passe through many streets of the City and fill all the large ditches thereof with water The City is very well fortified hauing high walles of earth the bottomes whereof are fastned with stone and the sides with trees planted on the same On the VVest side towards France are the gates Weissen-thore and Rheine-thore On the East side toward the Rheine is the gate Croneberg-thore at which though it be out of the way for the iealousie of neighbour-hood the French must enter and at no other On the East side is the Butchers gate called Metsiger-thore On the same side is the Cathedrall Church The circuit of the Cty is three houres walking The buildings and Churches are faire and high of free stone most of the streets are narrow but those diuided by water are broader I paied six Batzen a meale and for wine extraordinary three Batzen the measure Many things in this City are remarkable The Steeple of the Cathedrall Church is most beautifull and numbred among the seuen miracles of the world being begun in the yeere 1277 and scarce finished in twentie eight yeeres In the building of one gate thereof they say three Kings treasure was spent in whose memory three statuaes are there ingrauen The Church is couered with lead which is rare in Germany where the chiefe Churches are couered with brasse growing in the Countrey The brazen gates of this church are curiously carued The Clocke thereof is of all other most famous being inuented by Conradus Dasipodius in the yeere 1571. Before the Clocke stands a globe on the ground shewing the motion of the heauens starres and planets namely of the heauen carried about by the first mouer in twenty foure houres of Saturne by his proper motion carried about in thirty yeeeres of Iupiter in twelue of Mars in two of the Sunne Mercury and Venus in one yeere of the Moone in one month In the Clocke it selfe there be two tables on the right and left hand shewing the eclipses of the Sunne and Moone from the yeere 1573 to the yeere 1605. The third table in the midst is diuided into three parts In the first part the statuaes of Apollo and Diana shew the course of the yeere and the day thereof being carried about in one yeere The second part shewes the yeere of our Lord and of the world the Equinoctiall dayes the houres of each day the minutes of each houre Easter day and all other feasts and the Dominicall Letter The third part hath the Geographicall discription of all Germany and particularly of Strasburg and the names of the Inuentor and of all the worke-men In the middle frame of the Clocke is an Astrolobe shewing the signe in which each Planet is euery day and there be the statuaes of the seuen Planets vpon a round piece of iron lying flat so as euery day the statua of the Planet comes forth that rules the day the rest being hid within the frame till they come out by course at their day as the Sun vpon Sunday and so for all the weeke And there is a terrestriall globe and the quarter and halfe houre and the minuts are shewed There is also the skull of a dead man and two statuaes of two boyes whereof one turnes the houre-glasse when the Clocke hath strucken the other puts forward the rod in his hand at each stroke of the clocke Moreouer there be statuaes of the spring summer Autumne and winter and many obseruations of the Moone In the vpper part of the clocke are foure old mens stutuaes which strike the quarters of the houre the statua of death comming out each quarter to strike but being driuen backe by the statua of Christ with a speare in his hand for three quarters but in the fourth quarter that of Christ goeth backe and that of death strikes the houre with a bone in the hand and then the chimes sound On the top of the clocke is an Image of a Cock which twice in the day croweth alowd and beateth his wings Besides this clocke is decked with many rare pictures and being on the inside of the Church carrieth another frame to the outside of the wall wherein the houres of the Sunne the courses of the Moone the length of the day and such like things are set out with great Art Besides in the City there is a faire house in which citizens and strangers at publike meetings or otherwise vse to feast their inuited friends Neere the gate Rheinethore is the Armory vulgarly Zeighauss which aboundeth with Ordinance and all Munitions They haue a Theater for Comedies and a Tower to lay vp their treasure called penny Tower vulgarly Phennigthurne They say this City is called Argentina in latine of the word Argentum because the Romans of old laid vp their treasure here and Strassburg in Dutch of the word strass that is way and Burg that is a City as being built where many waies lead to many Prouinces I had almost omitted one remarkeable thing namely the faire House of the Cannons called Bruderhoff that is the Court of the Brethren I hired a coach for a Dollor my person from Strassburg to Heidelberg being sixteene miles The first day after dinner I went foure miles to Leichtenou through a plaine all compassed with Gardens and Orchards and paid six batzen for my supper The next morning we went foure miles to Milberk through a sandy
we had striuen yea and repined against his diuine prouidence which with humble and hearty sorrow I confesse to the glory of his sacred name In this Iland I paied for my supper and bed ten stiuers for my breakfast and dinner eight stiuers On Wednesday we had a most faire winde but the terrour of our last escape made vs stay in the harbour In the euening I went to lodge in the village and paied tenne stiuers for my supper and bed and there I saw great store of all kindes of shel-fish sold for a very small price Since this iourney by Sea had besides our expectation proued so difficult my selfe though I had seene the Cities vpon the sea coast of Germany yet preferring my safety before the charge and trouble of that way did resolue to passe to Hamburg by land with which purpose when I acquainted my consorts suddenly al the passengers resolued to leaue the ships and to go by land at which resolution the Masters of the ships stormed but when each of vs had payed them a Doller for our passage from Amsterdam to the Fly they were well pacified My selfe and nine consorts in my company hired a boat for thirty stiuers each man paying three stiuers and so vpon Thursday in foure houres space wee sailed three miles to Harlingen a City of west Freesland passing the aforesaid Inland sea And the same day hiring a boat for which each man paied six stiuers wee passed a mile to the City Froniker where is an Vniuersity and passing by water through the midst of that pleasant little City we passed two miles further to Lewerden where we lodged and I paied for my supper ten stiuers The next morning being Friday wee passed in six houres space two long miles to Dockam and each man paied for his boate hire three stiuers Without delay in the afternoone we entred a barke to saile from West Freesland one of the vnited Prouinces into East Freesland a Prouince of the German Empire but scarce one mile from the towne we cast anchor to expect the floud and lying there we heard from the land great noise barking of dogs cries of men and sounding of bells which proceeded from some Spanish Free-booters breaking out of Groning to spoile the Peasants All the next day wee sailed and in the euening for our better safety wee cast anchor neere a man of warre whereof there be some appointed to lie in this Inland Sea to guard the friends of the States and early the next morning being Sunday wee set saile and by the rising of the sunne landed in the Iland of Rotermere which is diuided from the continent by this Inland Sea and hath the maine Sea on the other side whence soone after we parted and were put on land in East Freesland a Prouince of the Empire and passing one mile on foot came to the City of Emden I said that the States maintained some men of warre in this Inland Sea and these vsed to send out in lesser boates some bodies of men to search the Barkes whether they be friends or not which bodies of men are vulgarly called Dieiagt that is the hunting of a metaphor taken from the hunting of dogs For my passage from Dockam to Emden I paid ten stiuers and here for supper and breakefast I paid twenty three stiuers though the ordinary rate be but sixe stiuers a meale without wine and for a pound of cherries I paid eight stiuers In our iourney to Stode the first day wee came in sixe houres space three miles to the village Detrem vpon the confines of the county of Emden passing through fruitfull corne fields and faire meadowes and being eight in the Waggon we all paid fifteene stiuers for the same From hence we went a mile through wild and fenny fields to the village Open and each foure consorts paid for their Waggon three stiuers and our Waggon was driuen by a woman Here the Graue or Count of Oldenburg hath a Castle and each man paid for his supper seuen groates By night we passed foure miles through a wild heath to Oldenburg and foure consorts paid ten stiuers for a Waggon They haue very little horses in these parts to draw the Waggons like to the gallo way nags of Scotland The second day wee passed two miles and a halfe in foure houres space through a sandy heath ground and thicke woods of oake and came to a Village where each man paid for his dinner foure stiuers After dinner we passed more then a mile through a like wooddy Heath and in three houres space came to Delmerhurst where the Count of Oldenburge hath a faire and strong Castle though it be a poore Village and here each man paid halfe a stiuer to the Count and for our Waggon ten stiuers The same day we passed a mile through sandy pastures and in three houres space came to Breme where each man paid for our Waggon foure groats and for our supper fiue lubecke shillings From Breme we passed foure miles through wild fields yeelding some little corne and thicke woods and in sixe houres space came to a poore house where each man paid for dinner fiue lubecke shillings Here those which carried any merchandise paid tole and one man hauing a packe which a man might carry on his shoulder paid foure lubecke shillings for the same but all that goe to study in Vniuersities or be no Merchants are free from this imposition After dinner we passed three miles in fiue houres space to Furd where each man paid for his supper fiue lubecke shillings The next day from two of the clocke in the morning to seuen wee passed three miles through a heath and woods of oake and came to Stode where each man paid for his Waggon from Breme twenty two Lubecke shillings At Stode I paid for my dinner in a Dutch Inne foure Lubecke shillings and a halfe and for a steifkin or measure of Rhenish wine halfe a doller I briefly passe ouer this iourney vpon the sea-coast of Germany because I formerly discribed the same The one and twenty of Iuly I passed in foure houres space by boat fiue miles to Hamburge and paid for my passage by water three Lubecke shillings for my supper foure and one for my bed Early in the morning I passed six miles in sixe houres space through wild fenny fields woods of oake and some few fields of corne and came to the Village Altslow seated in a bogge whereof it hath the name where I paid for my dinner fiue Lubecke shillings and a halfe Giue me leaue to tell you a ridiculous toy yet strange and true At Hamburge gate leading to Lubecke we found a dogge that followed vs and some passengers of credit assured mee that for many yeeres this dogge had lien at that gate and euery day without intermission watching the first Coach that came forth had followed the same to this village Altslow being the bayting place at noone and after dinner had returned backe to Hamburge gate with
another Coach comming from Lubecke for Coaches passe daily betweene those Cities After dinner we passed foure miles in foure houres space through hils more thicke with woods but in many places bearing good corne and came to Lubecke For my place in the Coach this day I paid twenty lubecke shillings and this night for my supper and bed I paid sixe lubecke shillings Here I bought the foureteenth Booke of Amadis de Gaule in the Dutch tongue to practise the same for these Bookes are most eloquently translated into the Dutch and fit to teach familiar language and for this Booke I paid eighteene lubecke shillings and for the binding foure and for a Map of Europe to guide me in my iourney I paid foureteene lubecke shillings Also I paid for a measure of Rhenish wine fiue lubecke shillings and as much for a measure of Spanish wine From Lubcke I passed two miles in three houres space through fruitfull hils of corne and some woods of oake to the village Tremuren and paid for my coach the fourth part of a Doller which notwithstanding vseth to be hired for fiue lubecke shillings and for my supper I paid foure lubecke shillings I formerly shewed that this village is the Hauen where the great ships vse to be vnladed and from thence to be carried vpto lie at Lubecke in the winter Here I tooke ship to sayle into Denmarke vpon the Balticke Sea so called because it is compassed by the Land as it were with a girdle This sea doth not at all ebbe and flow or very little after it hath passed in by the streight of Denmarke being more then twenty foure miles long so as vpon the shoares of Prussen Muscaw and Suetia this sea seemes little to be moued and many times is frozen with ice from the shore farre into the sea and the waues thereof once stirred with the winds are very high neither is the water of this sea any thing so salt as otherwhere so as the ships sayling therein doe sinke deeper at least three spans then in the German Ocean as manifestly appeares by the white sides of the ships aboue water when they come out of this sea and enter the said Ocean And this will not seeme strange to any who haue seene an egge put into salt pits and how it swimmes being borne vp with the salt water The Master of the Lubecke ship in which I passed to Denmarke gaue me beere for foure lubeck shillings for which the Dutchmen and Danes drinking more largely paid but one lubecke shilling more and euery man had prouided victuals for himselfe I paid for my passage twenty foure lubecke shillings and gaue foure to the marriners From Lubecke they reckon twenty foure miles to Falsterboaden and from thence seuen miles to Coppenhagen so called as the Hauen of Merchants We left vpon our lefthand towards the South a little Iland called Munde and as I remember the third day of August landed at Drakesholme being one mile from Coppenhagen whether I passed in a Waggon through some pastures and barren corne fields and neere the City I passed ouer the Hauen from one Iland to another I paid for my Waggon three lubecke shillings At our entrance of the City on the East-side is the Kings Castle where the Court lies especially in winter time On this side the City lies vpon the sea and there is the said Hauen as likewise on the North-side the sea is little distant from the City When I entered the gates the guard of souldiers examined me strictly and the common people as if they had neuer seene a stranger before shouted at mee after a barbarous fashion among which people were many marriners which are commonly more rude in such occasions and in all conuersation The City is of a round forme in which or in the Kings Castle I obserued no beauty or magnificence The Castle is built of free-stone in a quadrangle The City is built of timber and clay and it hath a faire market place and is reasonably well fortified Here I paid for three meales and breakefast eight lubecke shillings and as much for beere The King at this time lay at Roschild purposing shortly to goe into the Dukedome of Holst where he had appointed a meeting of the gentlemen at Flansburge to receiue their homage there which vppon old piuiledges they had refused to doe vnto him in Denmarke Therefore I went foure miles in foure houres space through a wild hilly Country to Roschild so called of the Kings Fountaine and my selfe and one companion paid twenty lubecke shillings for our Waggon and though it were the moneth of August yet the wind blowing strong from the North and from the Sea I was very cold as if it had beene then winter Roschild hath a Bishop and though it be not walled hath the title of a City but well deserues to be numbred among faire and pleasant Villages Here they shew a whet stone which Albrecht King of Suetia sent to Margaret Queene of Denmarke despising her as a woman and in scoffe bidding her to whet her swords therewith but this Queene tooke the said King prisoner in that warre and so held him till death Here I paid seuen Danish shillings for my supper In the chancell of the Church is a monument of blacke and white stone for this Queene Margaret and her daughter and the Danes so reuerence this Queene as they haue here to shew the apparell she vsed to weare In this Church are the sepulchers of the Kings whereof one erected by Frederick for Christianus his father is of blacke Marble and Alablaster curiously carued hauing his statua kneeling before a Crucifix and hung round about with sixteene blacke flags and one red Hauing seene the King and the Courtiers my selfe and my companion next day returned to Coppenhagen each of vs paying for the waggon tenne Lubeck shillings and here I paid for my supper six Lubeck shillings and three for beere From hence I passed by sea foure miles in fiue houres space to Elsinure and paied for my passage eight Lubeck shillings and for my supper eight Danish shillings And because I was to returne hither to take ship for Dantzke I passed the next morning three miles in foure houres space through Hils of corne but somewhat barren and woods of Beech to Fredericksburg and hauing but one companion with mee wee paied for our waggon thither and so to Coppenhagen each of vs twenty two Lubeck shillings Here the King hath a Pallace and a little Parke walled in where among other forraine beasts were kept some fallow Deare transported hither out of England the twenty foure yeere of Queene Elizabeths raigne I paied for my dinner foure Danish shillings and as much for beere In the afternoone we passed fiue miles in six houres through barren fields of corne and groues of Beech and hasel-nuts to Cappenhagen and by the way we saw a Crosse set vp in memory of a waggoner who hauing drunke too much droue his
cloth as would couer the same with a Rose-noble at the corner of each cloth Others tell a fable of like credit that it was once sold to a Merchant whom they scoffed when he came to take possession bidding him take away the earth he had bought The great reuenew exacted in this straight hath giuen occasion to these and the like fables And in truth if either the King of Suetia or the free City of Lubeck had the possession of this Iland and were fortified therein they might easily command this passage and extort what they list from the Merchants passing that way and perhaps conquer the parts adioyning but the possession thereof were altogether vnprofitable for any Prince whose Territories lie out of the Sound the entrance whereof is forbid by the two foresaid strong Castles But lest I should bee as foolish as they I returne to my purpose And first giue me leaue to mention that there lies a City not farre distant in the Kingdome of Norway which is called London as the chiefe City in England is called Vpon Sunday the twenty six of August in the yeere 1593 I tooke an English ship heere to saile into Prussen hauing first bought for my victuals halfe a lambe for twelue Danish shillings thirty egges for six shillings and some few pots of Spanish wine for forty two Danish shillings with some other small prouisions From Elsinure to Dantzk they reckon eighty English miles Assoone as wee were come out of the harbour wee saw two ships sayling two contrary wayes and yet hauing both a forewind which sometimes happens vpon the shoare as marriners know For of these two contrary winds the one is airy which holds when you are gone into the maine the other is from the earth and in short time faileth at the very shore which euent we presently saw with our eyes one of the ships going fairely on his course the other casting anchor The English ship in which I went was called the Antilope being of one hundred fifty tuns or thereabouts and one Master Bodley was the Master thereof who shewed me manifest signes where his ship in two places had beene struck with lightning the first whereof passed into the pumpe and rent it but comming to the water was by the nature thereof carried vpward and comming out at the top of the pumpe made two little holes then passing to the great Mast rent it and made a great crany therein from the hatches to the top The second struck the top of the said maine Mast and againe rent it in such wise as it would scarcely beare saile till wee might come to Dantzk where the best Mastes are sold at a good rate The first day we sayled in the Baltick sea some fiue miles with a scant winde and cast anchor neere Copenhagen With a faire winde and good gaile Marriners vsually sayle some three Dutch leagues in an houre On Monday early wee sayled along the shore three miles to Falsterboden On Tuesday early wee sayled eighteene miles to the Iland Brentholm and vpon our left hands saw the land in two places and there sounding with our plummet sand of Amber stuck thereunto The same day by noone wee sayled the length of that Iland and vpon Wednesday by three of the clocke in the morning hauing sayled thirty miles we passed by Rose-head being a Promentory 〈◊〉 Dantzk On Thurs-day by eight of the clocke in the morning hauing sayled eighteene miles we came to a Land called Rettell and entered the Port of Meluin where the water was scarce two fadome deepe our ship drawing one fadome and a halfe the entry was narrow and there were many booyes floting vpon shoales sands and the weather being calme we were drawne in by a boate with Oares In like cases ships vse to draw themselues in by the casting and weighing of Anchors with great labour and flow riddance of way From Kettell we passed ten miles and came to the Port of Meluin Iu the aforesaid entry of the Riuer on the right hand towards the West we saw Dantzke seated not farre from the sea shore where it hath a hauen but not so safe as this and towards the North-east in the same place a channell runneth vp to Konigsberg the Court of the Duke of Prussen The Port of Meluin is searce ten foot deepe but our ship passed through the mud like a plow vpon land This port is a little distant from the City on the North-side where we entered by a faire large street called Martgasse lying thence towards the South Prussen of old was subiect to the order of the Teutonicke Knights but by agreement made betweene the King of Poland and the Margraue or Marques of Brandeburg Master of the said order part of the prouince was giuen to the said Marques and his heires with title of Duke vnder homage to the King of Poland with condition that for want of heire male it should returne to the Kingdome of Poland and the other part was then vnited to the said Kingdome but Dantzke and Meluin remained free Cities acknowledging the King of Poland for their Protector for which cause they giue him many customes and permit his Officer to abide in the City ard receiue the same Meluin is a little and faire City lately compassed with new wals and at this time grew rich by the English Merchants hauing their staple in the same They giue good fare for foure grosh a meale and he that paies for two meales in the day may besides haue meat or drinke betweene meales at pleasure without paying any thing The same euening we landed at Meluin our Marriners staying in the ship entertained other English Marriners comming aboard and according to their custome giuing them a peece when they departed it happened that the peece being of iron brake and therewith cut the Cooke off by the middle and rent all the prow of the ship The English Merchants at Meluin had no Preacher though the Citizens gaue them free exercise of religion so that how so euer they excused in by reason that learned Preachers could hardly be drawne to come so farre for meanes to liue yet I thought them not free of blame in this point because our Merchants further distant in Asia and liuing vnder the Turkes Empire found meanes by their bounty to haue learned Preachers Neither indeed did I euer obserue in any other place Italy excepted that our Merchants wanted Preachers where they held their staples From Meluin I went ten miles in one day to Dantzke and we being onely two conforts paid each of vs a Doller for our Coach In the morning we went sixe miles and by the way passed the Riuer Begot comming out of the riuer Vistula where our Coachman paid three grosh to haue his Coach carried ouer a damme Beyond this riuer we entered the territory of the King of Poland and passing all this way through fruitfull come fields and rich medowes and pastures in a Countrey abounding with
let him ride behind me but feare giuing him wings so as he went as fast as my horse could trot within short space we came to Lanzi where I paid sixteene batzen for my supper breakefast and horse-meat The sixth day in the morning I rode fifteene Italian miles which the Grysons call two miles to Chur a City and the seat of a Bishop through little mountaines couered with snow The head of the Riuer Rheine is distant from this City as farre as a footman may goe in halfe an houre and it lies towards the south The City lieth in length from the Church on the North-side towards the South and hauing spent an houre in viewing the same I rode further foure miles of Sweitzerland through mountaines couered with snow to Walstat where I paid fiue batzen for my supper and to gratifie my Dutch consorts foure batzen for drinke after supper vulgarly called Schlaffdrunke that is the sleeping cup and three batzen for my horse-meat The seuenth day in the morning I passed two miles I meane alwaies the miles of the Countrey by boat vpon the Lake Walsea that is the walled sea because it is compassed with mountaines and I rode two most long miles more ouer hils to the little City Rabesuele and for the passage of my selfe and my horse ouer the Lake I paid seuen batzen and for oates for my horse while I expected consorts I paid three creitzers The foresaid little City is confederate with the Sweitzar Cantons and here I paid eighteene batzen for my supper with extraordinary fare and my breakfast and horse-meat The eight day in the morning after I had ridden foure houres space for the Sweitzers miles are so long and of so vncertaine measure as they vse to measure their iournies by houres riding not by miles I wondered to heare that we had ridden but one mile Our way was through pleasant hils planted with vines growing vpon short stakes as the Dutch vse to plant them Here we dined in a village and throughout all this territory I paied about seuen batzen a meale After dinner hauing in three houres ridden three miles my horse weary of this long iourney without so much as a daies rest beganne to faint so as I was forced in a village to giue him some two houres rest and some prouender and my way hitherto was through pleasant hils in like sort planted with vines on my right hand towards the East and by the side of the Lake Zurechzea on the left hand towards the West And the pleasantnesse of this Village seated among hilles planted with Vines on the East side of the said Lake made me as willing as my horse to rest there The same euening I rode further one mile to Zurech which city I formerly described in my former passage through Sweitzerland I formerly said that for the vnpossibilitie to exchange my money from Venice to Paris I was forced to exchange the same to Geneua For which cause and out of my desire to view that Citie famous for reformation of Religion after some few daies I took my iourney thither turning out of my high way The first day in the morning through a way most pleasant for the variety of Plaines Hilles Orchards Woods and Gardens wherein I passed by an ancient Castle of the Counts of Habspurg I rode in eight howers space to a Village where I lodged and payed a franke and a halfe French money for my supper and horse-meate The second day in the morning through a plaine Heath Woods and hilly ground for pasture I rode in foure houres space to a Village and there as in the rest of this iourney I payed about seuen batzen of Dutch money for a meale After dinner through like way I rode in three houres space to Solothurn an ancient Citie and one of the Sweitzers Cantons called in Latin Solidurum and it hath the name in both tongues as the Tower of the Sunne or as consisting onely of Towers whereof there be many One Tower thereof is of great antiquitie and vpon it these verses in Latin are written Ex this nihil est Sollduro antiqi ius vno Exceptis Treueris quarum ego aicta soror What 's older mongst the Celts then Solidure Nothing but Treir whose sister Iam sure They will haue this Citie built in the time of the Patriarke Abraham The third day in the morning I rode in foure houres space to Arberg by the side of a great Riuer called Ar passing twice ouer it by two bridges After dinner I rode in foure houres space to Morton through pleasant miles of Corne and Woods and Pastures and by the side of the Lake Mortonzra Not farre hence Charle Duke of Burgunay was defeated by the Sweitzers in the yeere 1476 and there in a field lie the bones of the souldiers there killed The Burgundians were thrice beaten in one day and here in the last battell Duke Charles also was killed The fourth day in the morning I rode in three houres to Bitterline through fruitfull Corne fieldes and pastures and after dinner in foure houres space I rode to Milden and about the midst of the way did see the ruines of the ancient Citie Auenza or Auenticum which Iulius Caesar vtterly raced and Corne was now sowed within the old circuit of the Citie whereof no memory remained but one ruinous tower and a statua but they say that the Husbandmen tilling the ground doe many times dig vp old Roman coines of siluer and gold Not farre thence towards the West lie the snowy Mountaines which diuide the Territories of Burgundy and Sweitzerland The fifth day in fiue houres space I rode to Losanna through Mountaines couered with Snow and thicke Woods This Citie is subiect to Berna being one of the Sweitzers Cantons but the Citizens speake French It is seated on the North side of the Lake of Losanna of old called Lacus 〈◊〉 which is compassed with Mountaines continually couered with snow which open themselues on the Eastside towards Italy On the Eastside of the Citie is the head of the Riuer Rhodanus which fulles into this Lake hauing so cleare a colour as it seemes not at all to mingle with the standing water of the Lake From hence I rode by the West side of this Lake and in two howers space came to Morgen which Towne is also subiect to Berna Then I rode foure miles in foure houres space to Geneua hauing the sandy banke of the said Lake on my left hand towards the East and most pleasant Hilles planted with Vines on my right hand towards the West and by the way I did see a Village ruined in time of warre nothing there standing but a pillar erected in honour of the Papists Masse Geneua is seated on the South side of the Lake right opposite to Losanna seated at the North end thereof The East side of the Lake lies towards Sauoy and Italy and the West side towards France on which side also the high way lies
little Mountaine The houses are vniformely and very fairely built of free-storie hauing the first vpper roomes of the houses cast out towards the streetes and supported with arches vnder which they walke drie in the greatest raine Round about this little Mountaine the Citizens haue their gardens from the fall of the same to the lowest Valleyes and vpon the South-East by South is a most faire Church and very pleasant for the light somnesse thereof and on euery side there is a pleasant place for walking On the South side without the walles the Riuer Arba runnes from the West to the East and is passed by a bridge at the East ende of the Citie whence it turneth towards the North and so makes the Citie almost an Iland Here I paied fourteene batzen for my supper and horsemeate The fourth day in the morning I rode three miles in sixe houres space through fruitfull fieldes of Corne and pasture to Solothurn And by the way I obserued a monument of the English defeated by the Sweitzers with this in scription in Dutch Ritterlich erschlagen die English gùckler Anno 1425 arme Iucke That is The English Iuglers Knightly beaten in the yeere 1425 poore Knaues The English Histories make no mention of any warre with the Sweitzers Semler a Sweitzer Historian in his first booke fifty fourth leafe writes that Leopold Duke of Austria drew the English against the Sweitzers and that they did much hurt by wasting the Territories aswell of Austria as of Sweitzerland but that they being ouercome in some battels did after the wasting of these Countries returne home in the yeere 1376 and this he calles the first English warre Also Semler in his first booke the leafe 273 writes that the English as it seemes called from the French warre did at the instance of Duke Leopold besiege Strassburg in the yeere 1365 but the Emperor Charles the fourth comming with an armie against them that they retired But neither doe the words of Semler agree since he calles the first attempt the first English warre and after mentions another of former time neither doe the yeeres set downe by Semler agree with the yeeres of this monument neither seemes it by the French Histories that the English had any leasure to make warre vpon the Sweitzers in the yeere 1365 and lesse in the yeere 1376. To conclude it appeares aswell by the English as French Histories that the English Conquerours in France had so weightie a warre lying there vpon them in the yeere 1425 set downe in this monument as it is not credible they could at that time turne their forces any other way Only the most approued French Writers witnes that the English and French hauing made a truce for eighteene moneths in the yeere 1443 it seemed good to the leaders on both sides that the souldiers hating rest and peace should be drawne out to some forraine warre and that the English seruing vnder Lewis the Dolphin of France the said Lewis in the yeere 1444 making warre vpon the Sweitzers killed therein 4000 of them but the victorie was so bloudy of this battell fought in the territorie of Bazel as he that had the victorie lost some 5000 men of his owne and that the Emperour Frederick the third comming against him he drew his men backe For my part I leaue the credit of this monument to be tried by the consent of Historians and returne to my iourney The fifth day in the morning I rode foure miles to the Towne Ottmersea and in the afternoone through a stony Plaine of Corne and some Woods I rode foure miles to Besa The sixth day in the morning I rode fiue miles through the like Plaine to Gerzen and in the after-noone through a woody heath Plaine and towards my iournies end through fruitfull fields of Corne I rode foure miles to Strassburg And in all this iourney I payed about seuen batzen for each meale From Solothurne to Strassburg some reckon senentene miles others twenty two miles for the Dutch reckon the miles diuersly according to the length of them in their owne Countrey and in these parts they vse to distinguish their iournies by howers riding not by miles Not farre from the foresaid Towne Besa lies the Citie Bazell which I haue described in my former iourney through these parts But to gratifie those who loue to search antiquities giue me leaue to say that Augusta Rauracorum so called for distinction from Augusta Vindelicorum a Citie of great antiquitie and at this day become a poore Village lies distant from Bazell some mile towards the Mountaine Iura and that neere this ancient Citie are many old monuments of the Romans and many buildings vnder the earth which my selfe being lesse curious did not see and that the Husbandmen there digged vp lately a coyne of gold and sold it for copper which was after valued at nine Crownes of the old Romans I say nothing of Strassburg which I haue in the foresaid place formerly described onely I will say that I had the good fortune there to find a French Gentleman the Gouernour of Monwick with his traine in whose company I rode thither 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 a fruitfull Plaine of Corne foure miles to Sauerne in which Citie the Papisticall Chanons of Strassburg haue long fortified themselues vnder the protection of the Duke of Loraine against their Lords the Senators of Strassburg and haue appropriated to themselues great part of the reuenewes of that Bishoppricke lying vnder their power After dinner I rode three miles through Hilles yet couered with snow to Villa Noua Concerning my expences I spent each day little lesse then a French Crowne namely two franckes for my supper and commonly three French soulz for my breake-fast and one franck for my horsemeate The second day I rode one mile to the confines of the Empire and the Dukedome of Loraine and some three miles further to Monwick where so much salt is made as the Duke of Loraine yeerely receiues sixty thousand French Crownes for the same The third day through a dyrtie way and fruitfull fieldes of Corne I rode fiue miles to the Citie Nanzi where the Duke of Loraine keepes his Court and when I was entring the Gate the Captaine of the Guard drew towards mee to know my name and Countrie I not ignorant that the Family of Loraine vsurping great power in France vnder the pretence to defend the Roman Religion bare no good will to the English at that time answered that I was a Polonian hee inquired many things of the Kingdome King and Queene of Poland and perceiuing that I answered him directly hee whispered something with some chiefe men of the Guard about my confidence and so turning againe to me bad me lift vp my hand for so the French vse to take othes I was much affraid lest I should bee forced vpon this oath to confesse my Countrey which I had dissembled but when I demaunded the cause hee told mee
we walked on foot one mile to Midleburge where being inuited by our friends as we were at Vlishing we supped on free cost The twelfth day wee passed by Sea in two houres space to Armuren where wee cast anchor not without feare of Spanish Pirats who comming with small boates out of the Castle Wouda did then many robberies vpon this Sea The thirteenth day in the morning wee sailed nine miles to the Iland Plat where a Man of warre sent out by the States against these Pirats did lie at anchor vnder the guard whereof we also lay at anchor the night following The fourteenth day in the morning hauing alwaies a faire winde wee sailed eight milcs to Delphs hauen in Holland where we left our Barke and each man payed twelue stiuers for his passage and my selfe gaue three stiuers to a Marriner that had attended me From hence my selfe and three consorts hired a Wagon for 18 stiuers to the Hage where I payed for my supper a Flemish guilden and seuenteene stiuers The fiftenth day of December which after the new stile was Christmas day that Feast by the old stile falling on the twentie fiue of December my selfe and three consorts hired a Wagon for two guldens for two long miles to Leyden From Leyden at a set hower euery day boates passe to all the next Cities and we entring the boat that went for Amsterdam payed each of vs 6 stiuers for our passage First wee passed fiue miles vpon the Lake called Harlam Meare which Lake is much subiect to Tempests Our boate was then drawne by force of hands ouer a Damme into a Channell of water in which we passed two miles and so came to Amsterdam The boates are thus drawne out of the Lake into the Channell by a priuiledge granted to Harlam because that Citie had spent much money in the workes for conueyance of waters And this was granted to them to the ende that this passage being shut vp to Barkes of greater burthen the Merchants wares passing by land should be forced to come by Harlam We lodged in a English Merchants house at Amsterdam and payed eight stiuers for each meale The seuenteenth of December we entred a little ship to saile out of Holland into West-Freesland but being almost frozen in with yce after wee had sailed two dayes and a night with great danger through huge pieces of yce and were the second night also compassed therewith and had been forced to lie at anchor a good space we hardly arriued the third day at Horne in North Holland which Citie is fiue miles distant from Amsterdam and each man payed ten stiuers for our passage and two stiuers for the vse of a little cabbin in the ship The ninteenth day we would needs go on foot two miles as long as ten English miles to Enchnsen because they asked foure guldens and a half for a Wagon And in the mid way it hapned that we light vpon a sledg which wee 4 consorts hired for 20 stiuers and therin wee were all carried but for my part I paied 5 stiuers more for the cariage of my necessaries And we could not sufficiently maruell at our first setting forth that the Villages should be so frequent in such an obscure Countrey as wee could hardly see how they were parted one from the other for halfe the way at least From hence we sailed with a very faire wind in three houres space two miles to Stauern a Village seated in West Freezland and each man paid ten stiuers for his passage foure for his supper and foure for beere The next day we passed on foot one mile of Freezland which miles are exceeding long to Warcome and we hired two Clownes for two guldens to carry our necessaries which Clownes drinking stoutly all the night we were forced beyond our bargaine to pay for their intemperance which wrong we could not auoid though we much repined at it Early in the morning we passed by water one mile ouer a Lake to Bolsworth and each man paid two stiuers and a halfe for his passage and eight stiuers and a halfe for his dinner In the afternoone we hired a boat for three miles to Lewerden and each man paid sixe stiuers for his passage and thirty foure stiuers for his supper and breakefast with wine The next day in the morning we might haue passed to Groning in a common boat each man paying twelue stiuers but because the couetous Marriners had ouerloaded it and the winds were boisterous we foure consorts hired a priuate boate for seuen guldens and a halfe The first day we passed by water fiue miles to Kaltherberg that is the cold Inne with a very faire wind but so boysterous as we were in no small feare Here each man paid twelue stiuers for his supper and seuen stiuers for his drinke while in good fellowship we sate at the fier after supper The next day we passed in the same boat two miles to Groning in a great tempest of wind besides that in the midst of the Lake we lost our Rudder being thereby in great danger had not the waues of the water by Gods mercy driuen it to vs. Here we paid eight stiuers each man for a plentifull dinner but without wine In the afternoone we passed by water two miles to Delphs I le and each man paid forty stiuers for the hier of the boate and twenty foure stiuers for supper and breakefast and fire in our priuate chamber From hence we sayled with a most faire wind in two houres space two miles to Emden the first City of the German Empire seated in East Friezland and each man paid sixe stiuers for his passage and as much for his dinner In the afternoone we passed in a boat hired for foure guldens whereof each man paid ten stiuers for his part three miles to a little City Lyre and by the way passed by the Fort Nordlire in which the Earle of Emden held his Court. We rested at Lyre this night and the next day being Christmas day by the old stile and each man paid sixteene stiuers for each supper and eight stiuers for one dinner The Spanish Garisons daily sent out free-booters into these parts with the permission of the Earle of Emden for his hatred to the Citizens of Emden who lately had shut him out of their City and of the Earle of Oldenburge for his hatred against the Citizens of Breme Therefore we being here many passengers did at last obtaine of the Earle of Emden that we might hier his souldiers to conduct vs safely for some few miles To these souldiers we gaue twenty one dollers yet when at the three miles end we came to the Village Stickhausen and were now in the greatest danger they as hired to goe no further would needes returne till each of vs gaue them a German gulden to conduct vs onely to the next village being the confines of the Counties of Emdens and Oldenburg To which they were perswaded not so much by our prayers as by
our reward and once by the way to make shew of danger as it seemed to me lest we should repent vs of the money we had giuen them they rushed into some old houses with such a noise as if they would haue killed al they met but no enemy appeared if they had lurked there I think they would not haue fought with the Earles souldiers who fauoured them as on the other side if they had assaulted them I doubt whether our mercinary souldiers would haue lost one dram of blood for our safety As long as these souldiers were with vs we partly went by water each man paying 3. stiuers for his passage partly on foot They being now dismissed we went on foot a Dutch mile in the Territory of the Earle of Oldenburg to the Village Aopen where each man paid foure stiuers for his dinner In the afternoone we being many consorts hired diners waggons paying for each of them twenty fiue stiuers to Oldenburg being foure miles and we came thither by nine of the clock in the night and there each man paid fifteene groates for his supper and breakefast The second day in the morning we went foure miles to Dolmenhurst and each man paid two copstucks for his Waggon Then sixe of vs hired a Waggon one mile to Breme for three copstucks where each man paid foureteene lubecke shillings for his supper and breakefast From hence eleuen of vs hired two Waggons to Stoade for which each of vs paid thirty lubecke shillings The first day we went foure miles to a poore Village where each of vs paid fiue lubecke shillings for our suppers And hauing rested here somefew houres vpon straw we went before the breake of day three miles to Foard and making no stay there passed three miles further to Stoade Hence fiue of vs hired a Coach for fiue dollers to Luneburg ten miles distant and the first day in the afternoone we went three miles to Alte-kloster that is the old Cloyster which was seated in the Bishoppricke of Breme and the next day one mile in the same Bishoppricke and sixe in the Duke of Luneburgs territory and so we came to Luneburg but the horses being weary and the iourny long we came so late in the night as we were forced to lodge without the gates where each man paid fiue lubecke shillings for his supper three for his breakefast and fiue for beere The next day we entered Luneburge where each man paid foure lubecke shillings and a halfe for his dinner From hence foure of vs hired a Coach for seuen dollers to Brunswicke being sixteen miles distant the Coach-man paying for his horses meat and we for his owne meat The same day in the afternoone we passed fiue miles in sixe houres space to Sawerburg where each of vs paid for our owne supper with our part of the Coach-mans supper seuen lubecke shillings The second day in the morning we passed foure miles to Owsen where each man paid in like sort fiue lubecke shillings for our dinner In the afternoone we passed three miles to Gethurne where the Duke of Luneburg hath a Castle which the Dutch call Schlosse where for ours and the Coach-mans supper and breakfast we foure English consorts paid a doller and twelue stiuers The third day in the morning we passed foure miles to Brunswicke where in like sort we foure paied for our owne and the Coach-mans beuer supper and dinner two dollers and a halfe From hence sixe consorts of vs hired a Coach forthirty dollers to Nurnberg forty eight miles distant and the coach-man paid for his horse-meat and we for his owne meat which hereafter diuided among vs I will reckon in our seureall expences The first day at ten of the clocke beginning our iourney we passed through fruitfull hils of corne one mile where we left on our left hand Wolfenbeyten a City where the Duke of Brunswicke keepes his Court with a Village belonging to his brother the Bishop of Ossenbruck And there we met with certaine of the Dukes hors-men who kept the waies safe from theeues and at their request we bestowed on them an Ort or fourth part of a doller Then in the like way we passed two miles and a halfe to Rauchell where each of vs paid for ours and the Coach-mans supper fiue filuer groshen The second day in the morning we passed three miles and a halfe to Halberstatt where each man paid in like sort for ours and the Coach-mans dinner halfe a doller Our iourny this day was through fruitfull hils of corne not inclosed and groues and woods in a fruitfull and pleasant Country The Duke of Brunswicke is called the Administrator of the Bishoppricke of Halberstatt and hath the rents thereof After dinner we passed one mile to Ermersteben subiect to the Duke of Brunswicke through a plaine more pleasant then the former hauing no inclosures but being fruitfull in corne and full of Villages where wee foure English consorts paid twenty three siluer groshen for our owne and the Coach-mans supper I haue omitted the quality of the soyle in places which I haue formerly discribed which now I mention againe because this is the first time I passed from Brunswicke to Nurnburg The third day in the morning we passed in a dirty way but through most pleasant hils and fruitfull of corne but hauing no woods nor so much as a tree two miles to Mansfield The Counts of Man field well knowne Captaines in the warres of the Low-Countries and Hungary haue their name from this Castle and Village and this territory hauing besides some twelue Castles being not sufficient to maintaine the great number of them they were forced to seeke aduancement by the warres The Citizens of Mansfield were of old very rich by the Mines of this territory but at this time they had scarce bread to eat the Counts hauing ingaged these mines to the Fugari of Augsburg and to some Citizens of Nurnburg Some of these mines yeeld gold but so sparingly as it scarce quits the cost Others yeeld siluer and the very mines of Copper in each hundred yeeld twenty lot that is halfe ounces of siluer Of these mines some are two hundred Clafters that is fathoms deepe vnder the earth And these mines of the mountaine are borne vp with pillars and buildings of wood vnder the earth lest it should fall vpon the workmen They say that these mines yeeld yeerly one hundred forty thousand dutch guldens besides the expences At this time three officers liued in the Castle who receiued the profits of the mines for those to whom they were ingaged whereof one receiued fiue parts the other three the third onely one part Moreouer here be wonderfull stones in the quarries which broken into neuer so many parts haue still the liuely figure of diuers things Our Hoste shewed vs some of them which had throughout the figures of diuers fishes in a Lake adioining this stone of one fish that of another and so of all the kinds
is exchanged for three Franckes or for foure Quarts d'escn or for little more then foure testoones For foureteen soulz and a halfe make a testoon fifteene soulz make a Quart d'esca and twenty soulz make a francke and sixty soulz make a French crowne and twelue deniers make a soulz Yet a gold French crowne In specie that is in kind is changed for sixty fiue soulz As in like sort in England a French crowne is worth no more then six shillings and the English Angell is worth no more then 11. shillings in common estimation yet he that brings a weighty a French crowne In specie to the Gold-smyths they will giue him sixe shilling six pence for it and he that brings to them an old Angell of gold they will gine him 11. shillings and six pence or more for it And in the last ciuill warre the value of the French crowne was raised to 120 soulz till the King reduced the same to the old value after the warre composed The same King Henry the fourth since that time raised the value of gold crownes to the end he might draw backe his gold which was carried into forraine parts My selfe passing through Lorayne before the French ciuil warre was fully appeased did at Monwicke vpon the confines of Lorayne and German exchange a French crowne for foure franckes and nine grosh and shortly after comming to Shallons exchanged a French crowne for no more then sixty soulz so as I guesse that either the Franckes of Lor aine differ from the Franckes of France or that the tumult of the warre and the making of peace shortly after made this difference Of the diuers measures of miles through diuers parts of the world FVrther being to write of the diuers measures of miles through the diuers parts of the World it seemed good to me to adde the measure of miles vulgarly receiued namely that fiue Italian miles or three French or two and a halfe English make one Dutch mile and that one Dutch mile and a halfe makes a mile of Sweitzerland It remaines now that according to my owne experience I should speake something of the diuers kindes of miles And in generall this my opinion hath respect to the difficult or easie passages of the way since euen in England the miles seeme and indeed are more short neere London where the waies are faire and plaine and frequently inhabited as they seeme and indeed are more long and tedious through the desart places of the North ouer mountaines and through vninhabited and difficult passages The Romans of old held a thousand paces for a mile and such are the miles of Italie A common English mile makes one a halfe Italian but towards the North in some particular places of England the miles are longer among which the Kentish mile being a Southerne County is prouerbially held to be extraordinarily long The Irish miles among the English and the Irish-English are answerable to the English howsoeuer for the solitary and disinhabited wayes and many foards often ouerflowed they are more troublesome to passe In like sort the miles of Scotland answere to the Northerne miles of England saue that the frequent climing of mountaines and the vnbeaten waies make them seeme longer and indeed require more time for the passage Villamont a French gentleman in the book of his trauels witnesseth that one French mile containes two Italian miles The common Germain mile being for the most part in plaines makes more then three English or fiue Italian miles but in some places the solitude of Woods and the ascent of Mountaines make the miles of Germany seeme much longer and Sueuia extraordinarily hath long miles though it be a plaine Countrey The miles of Sweitzerland being ouer continuall Mountaines are so long as passengers distinguish their iourney more by the spaces of howers then by the distances or numbers of miles And I remember that finding no horse to be hired I went on foote from Scaphusen to Zureth which iourney I was going ten howers being accounted but foure miles And in Rhaetia among the Grisons vpon the confines of Italy one mile is held for sixe Italian miles And vpon the foote of the Alpes towards the North one mile is accounted for seuen miles and a halfe of Italy where hauing a good horse I could ride with an ordinarie pace no more then one Dutch mile in foure howers space By which appeares that the measure of miles is very vncertaine among the Sweitzers who for the most part reckon their iourneys by howers riding or going with an ordinary pace and not by miles The miles of Bohemia and Morauia are no lesse tedious and I remember that my selfe passing there on horseback did commonly ride no more then foure miles in a dayes iourney And howsoeuer the length of the Sweitzers and Bohemian miles may in part be attributed to the climbing of Mountaines and bad waies yet no such reason can be giuen for the miles of Morauia which Country is either a plaine or little pleasant Hilles and the waies faire and the Countrey well inhabited The Low-Countrey miles are of a middle length betweene the German and French miles But in the very Country of Holland they differ much one from another since foure miles of great Holland make sixe miles of little Holland And I remember that about the Citie Horne I esteemed each mile longer then three English Also next to the Holland miles those of Freesland are longer then the rest A mile of Denmark is somewhat longer then three English miles and answereth to the common mile of Germany The miles of Poland generally are like the miles of Denmarke but they differ in length one from the other For I remember that in Prussia each dayes iourny I passed by coach some seuen miles and in middle Poland nine or ten miles but in vpper Poland towards Germany I commonly rode on horse-back no more then fiue miles or there-abouts each day in my passage from Crakaw to Morauia In Russia among the Moscouites confining vpon Poland a mile is called a ferse and answeres to fiue Italian miles or one common mile of Germany In Turkey those that guide Christians hauing the Italian tongue doe in my opinion number the miles to them much after the Italian manner THE REBELLION OF HVGH EARLE OF TYRONE AND THE APPEASING THEREOF WRITEN IN FORME OF A IOVRNALL PART II. BOOKE I. CHAP. I. Of the Induction or Preface to my Irish Iournall and a compendious narration how CHARLES BLOVNT Lord Mountioy my Lord and Master of happy memorie was chosen Lord Deputy of Ireland and of this worthy Lords qualitie as also of the Councels in generali by which he broke the Kebels hearts and gane peace to that trenbled State Together with his particular actions in the end of the yeere 1599. AT my returne from Scotland about the month of September in the yeere 1598 I retyred my selfe
there to serue the King of Spaine in a flye boat of two hundred tun carrying bread to Lisbone where there was an army of three thousand men to be shipped with victuals and munition for Ireland and there heard that Tyrones Agent lay at Court importuning aid to be sent him presently being not able to subsist any longer without speedy aid And that the examinates demanded if they were Pylots for the Irish Coast and finding they should be imploied that way had secretly got shipping to transport themselues into France and so returned home The thirtieth day Arthur Mac Gennis chiefe of the name terrified by the plantation of the garrison in Lecaile made humble sute for mercy and obtained her Maiesties protection for nine daies conditionally that he should come the Satturday following to submit himselfe in person to her Maiesties mercy and craue her gracious pardon at Dundalk where his Lordship then purposed to be And Rory Oge Mac Gennis obtained the like protection for one moneth The same day his Lordship vpon the Lord President of Mounster his intercessory letters granted warrant for her Maiesties pardon to be passed for two hundred seuenty Artificers and Husbandmen of the County of Kerry The first of Iuly his Lordship had purposed to rise from Dunanurey and to returne himselfe to Dundakle but he staied that day in respect the weather was very foule and the rather to countenance the Conuoy going with bisket vp to Mouut Norreis and Armagh Hitherto his Lordship had kept the field rather to make Tyrone keepe his forces together and so to weaken him then for purpose of any other feruice of moment but now hearing from Dublin that the rising out for the generall hoasting came slowly and not onely victuals were not yet arriued there but euen the carriages and beeues for the Army were like in great part to faile the second day of Iuly his Lordship dispersed his forces into the said garrisons fronting neerest vpon the rebels and so with his followers and seruants rode to Dundalke leading with him of his army onely three Companies of foot and one troope of horse The third day Sir Francis Stafford Gouernour of the Newry brought Arthur Mac Gennis to Dundalke who made his submission to her Maiesty kneeling before the Lord Deputy Counsell Then he made certaine humble requests First for his pardon which was granted Secondly for lands granted to his father by letters Pattents which his Lordship promised to confirme excepting only the Lands of Glasny Mac Gennis on whom he should make no imposition That he might take in such tenants as would come from the Rebels acquainting the Gouernour of the Newry therewith before he receiued them which was granted Fourthly that he might retaine and absolutely command all his old tenants till Alhollandtide next which was granted excepting Glasny Mac Gennis Fiftly that he might enioy the Corne he had sowed in Lecaile which being sowed on other mens Lands could not be granted onely fauourable respect to him was promised Sixthly that his people might be freed from all actions of priuat wrongs in the warre which was granted vpon a fine of three hundred Cowes presently to be deliuered for the Army The same time Patricke mac Mahowne Nephew to the chiefe of that name was vpon like humble submission receiued to her Maiesties mercy with promise of his pardon The fifth day the Lord President and Counsell of Mounster by letters desired his Lordship to recall his warrant of marshall Law giuen to the Lord Bourke aswell because the Lords abused the same to draw followers to them and to reuenge their priuate quarrels as because the whole Prouince was peaceable and willing to be gouerned by iudiciall courses and this warrant his Lordship presently recalled This day Sir Oliuer S Iohns brought letters from the Lords in England whereby her Maiesty gaue direction that the Lord Deputy should publikely to all the Army and priuately to the chiefe Commanders giue thankes from her Maiesty to them for the zeale and duty they had shewed in her seruice and signifie her gracious acceptance of their endeauours The sixth day his Lordship staied at Dundalke to hasten the supplies of the generall hoasting which came in slowly and to order the Irish forces of the same fitly for defence of the Pale This day Captaine Thomas Roper with his company of foot according to his Lordships former directions came from Kells to serue in the army vnder his Lordship And while his Lordship lay here newes came from Armagh that Sir Henry Dauers had taken some chiefe horses from Tyrones campe and had entred Mac Carty his Country being one of the greatest fastnesses in Ireland and brought from thence a great prey His Lordship finding that the rising out of the generall hoasting would doe little good in the Army and they being willing to vndertake their owne defence which as their owne perill his Lordship thought hee might best commit to their trust The seuenth of Iuly his Lordship gaue order that the forces of the generall hoasting for the Counties of Dublyn and Lowth should lie at Lowth vnder the command of the Lord of Lowth and M r Garland of Killencoule That those of Meath should lie at Kels vnder the command of the Lord of Tremelstone and M r Dillon his Deputy That those of West-Meath should be commanded by the Lord of Deluin and any Deputy his Lordship should chuse so that his Lordship or his Deputy should alwaies in person be resident with them and keepe them together ready to answere any seruice vpon paine of a fine and imprisonment to such as should disobey That those of Kildare should vnder the Earle of Kildares command lie at Athy or else where at his Lordships discretion and that the Sheriffe of the shire command them vnder his Lordship The ninth day his Lordship marched from Dundalke towards the North and gathering the forces to him out of the adioining garrisons encamped at Latenbur beyond the Newry where he lay still the tenth day till the victuals was in readines to be carried to Armagh The eleuenth day his Lordship marched some foure miles to an hill little beyond Mount Norreis and that day his Lordship was aduertised that Sir Arthur Chichester had taken the sole Castle held in those parts of Knockfergus by Brian mac Art namely the Reagh and that Sir Richard Moryson in Lecale had taken in two Loughes or Ilands in Lakes being all the fastnesses or places of strength which the said Brian mac Art held there The twelfth day the Army marched early in the morning to Armagh and there resting some houres marched againe after dinner a mile and a halfe beyond Armagh and there vpon an hill encamped The thirteenth day of Iuly the Lord Deputy with the Army rose from the former Campe and marched one mile and a halfe to an hill on this side namely the South-side of Blackewater where he made a stand Tyrone and his horse and foot shewing themselues out of
which is an Oake whose boughes are in circuit one hundred forty walking paces and from the root are more then twenty such paces in length forward And they report that the Emperor Manimilian the second supped vnder this Oake and gaue 2000. Guldens to keepe and trimic On the East side of great Bazel the Rheine runneth by it from the South to the North and the yard of the Cathedrall Church lieth ouer the riuer and hath a Lynden tree which giueth very pleasant shade hauing seats vnder it and along the riuer The course of the Rheine is very swift but not so violent as that of the Danow yet the water-men of Bazel as those that dwel vpon the Danow sell their boats at Sirasburg which they weekely carrie thither and cannot bring backe against the streame of the Rheine and so they returne home on foot alwaies remembred that this riuer is at the broadest betweene Bazel and Strasburg Pope Pius the second founded an Vniuersine at Bazel in the yeere 1459 and gaue it all the priuiledges of Bologala in Italy In the publike Innes men pay six Batzen a meale but the Students haue their diet with Doctors and Citizens for some eight Dollers a month My selfe dieted with the Ouerseer of the Coledge and paied two Guldens a weeke for strangers may hire chambers in the Coledge and the Ouerseer willingly admits them to diet with him In the Cathedrall Church this is written vpon the Sepulcher of Hotoman a famous Ciuill Lawyer Francisie Hotamant Of Francis Hotoman I. C. Conns at Law Mortalis 〈◊〉 The mortall parts Tantisper assernandas So long to be kept Dum Till Christo inbente Christ bidding Immortales exurgant They rise immortall Amici His friends Sub hoc Saxo Vnder this stone Deposuere haue laid Loco Honoris ergo The place for honours sake Ab AEdis Cur atoribus By the gouernours of the house Liberal concesso Being freely granted Vixit An 63. M. 5. He liued 63. yeeres fiue M. D. 20. Ob Prid 20 daies he died the day before Id Febru Ano. The Ides of Febr. in the yeere MILCXC MILCXC Gallia progennit sernat Basilea sepultum Interitus expers nomen vibque viget He borne in France lies buried here His lasting Name liues euery where In the same place lies Oecolampadius buried to whom Luther opposed himselfe when in the first reformation of Religion he violently brake downe the Images and he hath this inscription in Latine M. Iohn Oecolampadius by profession a Diuine most skilfull in three languages first Author of the reformed Religion in this City and the true Bishop of this Church excellent in sanctity of Doctrine and life is laid vnder this short stone In the yeere of war Lord M. D. XLII In the same place lies buried Erasmus Roterodamus with this inscription in Latines To Desiderius Erasmus Roterodamus a most great man carry way whose imcomparable learning in all kindes of Arts ioyned with like wisedome 〈◊〉 come shall admire and celebrate Boniface Ameribachius Ierome Frobenius Nichol Bishop heire and Extertitort of his last Will and Testament to their Patron of happy memory which by his writings he hath got and so long as the world stands shall retaine for the reposing of his mortall body haue layed this stone He died the fourth of the Ides of Iuly being now seuenty yeeres old in the yeere of our Lord MDXXXVI These two Verses are written vpon the Tombe of Lodouicus Pontanus Hic iacet arte Plato Cato vita Tullius ore Vermes corpus alit spiritus astra petit Here lies Plato Cato Tully For his Art life and eloquence Wormes doe feede vpon his body His soule to heauen is mounted hence There be also the Monuments of Henricus Glarianus and of Bishop Hatto whom the Emperour Charles the Great sent Ambassadour to Irene Empresse of the East In this City a stone is shewed called the hot stone vulgarly Heisteine vpon which the Consuls and diuers others were beheaded who had conspired to betray the Citie if the clocke striking false had not preuented and deceiued both them and the enemies lying in ambush without the City expecting a signe to be giuen them at the houre appointed And for this cause or as others say to hasten the Councell held in the Senate house the clocke to this day strikes one when it should strike twelue Neere the staires of the Senate house is an old Statua on foot armed but without a sword bearing a Scepter clad with a loose gowne with a birde sitting on the Helmet and hath this inscription Hono virtuti L. Munatij L. F. L. N. L. Pron Planci Cos Imper Ter VII viri Epulonum Qui triumph ex Raetis Edem Saturni F. ex Manub Agros diuisit in Italia Beneuenti In Galliam Colonias Ded Lugdunum atque Rauracum Ciuitas Basiliensis Ex bellicosiss gente Alemannorum In Rauracorum fines Transducta Simulac●rum hoc ex Senatus Auct Dicandum statuendumque Curauit Anno salutis Christiane MDXXC Of Lucius Munatius the sonne of Lucius grand-child of Lucius great Grand-child of Lucius surnamed Plancus Being Consul General and thrice One of the seuen Presidents of the holy Banquets Who triumphed of the Rhaetians Built Saturnus Temple with the spoyles Diuided the Land in Italy at Beneuento Deduced Colonies into Gaul To Lyons and about Bazel The City of Bazel deduced Of the most warlike Nation Of the Alemans Into the Territories of the Rauraci or Basilians By authority of the Senate Procured This Statua to be consecrated and heere set In the yeere of Christ MDLXXX In the house where the Doctors and other Graduates take their degrees are the bones of an Anatomy for the Magistrates vse to grant the bodies of some men executed to serue this vse and it hath this inscription Nostro perempti scelere aliena viuimus manu Et facti vasa honoris qui fuimus ignominiae Kild for our wickednesse we liue by others heere And vessels are of honour as of shame we were CHAP. III. Of my iourney from Bazel to Strasburg to Heidelberg to Frankfort to Cassiles to Brunswicke to Luneburg to Hamburg to Stode to Breme to Oldenburg and to Emden the last City vpon the confines of the Empire I Went by boat to Strasburg fourteene miles and in sixe hours vpon the swift Rheine we passed six miles to Brisake a City subiect to Ferdinand of Inspruch Arch-Duke of Austria but of the villages oft intermixed some are subiect to the Margraue of Baden and some to diuers Bishops All the Territory on the VVest side of Rheine almost to Strasburg gates is subiect to the said Arch-Duke or the Bishop of Bazel or the Duke of Wirtenberg The boates comming downe to Brisake and Neoberg pay tribute and send forth two Marriners taking from thence two other in their stead At Brisake each man payes two Rapps for passing the bridge which is shut vp with an iron chaine and kept by watch-men lest any boats should passe without touching there I
foure miles to Bentzon hauing hils on my right hand toward the East planted with Vines and fields set with roots and vpon my left hand towards the West a faire and fruitfull plaine and here I paid seuen Batzen for my supper The second day in the morning I passed foure miles in the territory of George Landgraue of Hessen to Arhelygen through wooddy mountaines planted with some Vines and a plaine for one mile sandy but the rest good pasture We passed by Dormstat where the said Landgraue holds his Court and there each man paid sixe Fenning tribute At Arheligen I paid sixe Batzen for my dinner In the afternoone I passed some three miles to Franckfort through a sandy plaine and a wood of Oakes and Beeches and by the way they shewed vs a strange leape of a Stagge which being chased did leape ouer a cart if you may beleeue them loaded with hey Franckfort is a free City of the Empire famous for the Electors meeting there to choose the Emperour and for two yeerely Faires as also for many Parliaments of the Empire held there and it is called Franckfort vpon the Maene to distinguish it from another City of the same name built vpon the Brooke Odera and named thereof For the Riuer Maene running from the East to the West diuideth the great City from the lesse called the Saxons House vulgarly Sachsen-hausse and betweene them is a bridge of stone vpon foure narrow Arches Both the Cities are gouerned by the same Senate and Law and haue the fame name either of Francus rebuilding it or of a Foord for passage of the Franckes or French The City is compassed strongly with a double wall and vpon the East side is the gate Heilegthore where is the Iewes street who are permiteed to dwell in this famous Mart-towne and sucke the blood of Christians by extortion There is another gate called Freydigthore On the North side of the City is the gate Brickenport and a large place for an Horse Faire On the West side is the gate of strangers vulgarly Welsh-thore so called because the French enter that way it is very strong and without the gate there is a very pleasant walke vpon the banke of Maene among Vineyards and Meadowes with sweet Groues On the South side the Maene runneth by diuiding as I said the new City from the old In the new or lesse City called the Saxons-house is a house of old belonging to the Teutonike order of Knights which by old priuiledge is to this day a Sanctuary for banckrupts and manslaiers so they be not wilful and malicious murtherers but they enioy this priuiledge onely for foureteene daies so as when the time is neere out or vpon any opportunity during the time they vse to steale out and returning after an houre begin a new to reckon againe the foureteene daies A little before my comming thither a certaine bankrupt of Colen entered the same for a debt of twenty thousand Guldens On this side some ground without the wals belongs to the City but on other sides it hath almost no Land without the wals The City is of a round forme seated in a large plaine the streetes are narrow and the houses built of timber and clay the foundations of some being of stone In the Innes they aske seuen or eight batzen a meale but Merchants and many strangers vse to hire a chamber and buy their meat of the Cookes From hence to Hamburge I and foure others hired a Coach for fifty Dollers and besides were to pay for the coach-mans diet for here first the coach-man conditioned to be free from paying his diet vulgarly Maulfrey that is free for the mouth whereas in other parts our coach-men paid for themselues Alwaies vnderstand that at the times of the faires Coaches are set dearer then any time els The first day after breakfast wee went three miles to Freideburge through corne fields set with cabages and rootes and by the way we passed a Village belonging to the Count of Hanaw Freideburge is a free City of the Empire and the buildings are of timber and clay here each man paid seuen batzen for his supper and for his part of the coach-mans supper The second day in the morning we went three miles to Geysen through fruitfull hils of corne Phillip Landgraue of Hessen left three sonnes William of Cassiles whom Maurice his sonne succeeded and was now liuing and Lodwicke of Marpurg and George of Dormstat This territory belonged to the Landgraue Lodwicke for all the brothers in Germany haue the same stile of honour and he was also at that time Lord of this City Geysell which is fortified with wals of earth and deepe ditches but the building is base of timber and clay and for the most of meere dirt These verses were written vpon the gate of the City Captus erat Princeps non marte sed Arte Philippus Cum bene munitum destrueretur opus Nominis hoc patrij Lodouicus amore refecit Anno bis septem lustra sequente none Principe dignus honos patrias surcire ruinas A quibus Hassiacos Cbriste tuere polos Prince Phillip captiu'de not by warre but Art This worke of strength was then demolished In Countries loue Prince Lodwicke for his part Rebuilt it seuenty nine yeeres finished Ruines repaire is for a Princes hand From which disasters Christ shield Hessen land Here I paid sixe Batzen for my dinner and my part for the Coach-man In the afternoone we went three miles through high stony mountaines and woods of oakes to Kirnham belonging to the Landgraue Lodwick whose Court at Marpurg lies a mile from thence All of vs at supper drunke sixe measures of wine besides beere and from henceforth wee paid seuerally for meat and drinke and at this time each of vs paid ten Weissenfenning for both together The third day we passed three miles to Drest through high mountaines with woods of Oake and many fruitfull valleies of corne and each man paid with his portion for the Coach-man foure Weissenfenning for meat and as much for wine This territory belongs to Landgraue Maurice of Cassiles After dinner we passed three miles to Fester through high mountaines full of oake woods and entered the City seated vpon a mountaine by a bridge of stone vpon which side great store of water fals from the mountaines the houses were of timber and clay each one for the most part hauing a dunghill at the doore more like a poore Village then a City but such are the buildings of the Cities in Hessen the houses of Villages being of meere dirt and thatched Here each man paid for his meat and old wine and his part for the Coach-man an Orts Doller or fourth part of a Doller The fourth day we passed three miles to Cassiles a City where the Landgraue Maurice holds his Court all our way lying through fruitfull hils of corne The City is strongly fortified with wals of earth and deepe ditches but the houses are basely
by waggon the high way being then drowned Nothing were more pleasant nothing more quicke then Sea-voyages if a man might promise himselfe a good wind and a reasonable gale but through contrariety of winds and tempests they commonly proue tedious This small voyage which afflicted vs foure daies might haue beene passed in sixe houres if the winds had fauoured vs. And this hope of a short passage caused vs to make no prouision of victuals so as the Barke being gouerned by one Mariner and a boy who had nothing but cheese and musty bread to liue vpon and so could not much releeue vs each houre of these foure daies seemed a yeere vnto vs. Dockam a City of West Freesland little in circuit is in two places diuided with water which at this time ouer flowed into the very houses The wall is strong with rampiers of earth and the houses here as in all these parts of Netherland are built of bricke Here I paid for my supper twenty stiuers eating at an Ordinary but the company sitting at the fire and drinking after supper all vseth to be diuided equally whether a man drinke or not The first of Nouember we went by water in sixe houres space two miles to Lewerden hauing on each side the water fertile pastures and passing by two Forts and each man paid for his passage three stiuers The City is faire and well fortified and William Count of Nassau cousin to Count Maurice and Gouernour of Friesland had his residence in the same The streetes are large and diuided with water and the houses are fairely builded of bricke The City hath no Suburbs and is of a round forme but the waters diuiding the streetes slowly or not at all moued are in this City as almost in all other of these Prouinces subiect to stinking In the midst of the City there is a dam tolet in water at pleasure which in this place and two miles further is salt in tast Passengers entering the City leaue their swords with the guard of souldiers and receiue them backe when they goe out of the Towne The Villages hereabouts paid yeerely contribution to the Spanish garison of Groning left they should breake in and spoile them Here they say the first sermon of reformed religion was made in the Monastery of the Iacobinet and here I paid for my supper foureteene stiuers From Lewerden we went by water from eight a clocke in the morning to fiue in the afternoone two-miles to Froniker an Vniuersity of Friesland lately renewed and one mile to the City Harlingen and we paid six stiuers for our passage Entering this City we left our swords with the guard of souldiers who restored them to vs when wee went away It is a little City and lieth in length from the East to the West but is somewhat more narrow towards the North where the houses are thinly built On the west and North sides lies an arme of the Sea comming out of the German Sea and here inclosed with the continent and Ilands On the South and East sides without the gates are faire pastures in a large plaine I lodged in an Englishmans house the chiefe Host of the City who either dispising England and Englishmen or too much respecting his masters of Friesland gaue me such entertainment as I tooke him for one of the old Picts for hauing placed his Gentlemen of Friesland at one table he called me to the second and seeing that I tooke it in ill part lest I should no lesse dislike my lodging he intreated a gentleman of Friesland to admit me partner of his bed but I hearing the gentleman condition with him about the cleannesse of my body and linnen for very scorne would not trouble his worship but chose rather to lie vpon a bench And it was most ridiculous that this Host excused himselfe to me as hauing for countries sake made bold with me whom he had neuer seene before I paid for my supper and breakefast with wine thirty stiuers and one of my consorts drinking no wine paid sixeteene whereof nine was for beere From Harlingen I went by the said Inland Sea vulgarly called Zwidersea foureteene miles to Amsterdam and paid eight stiuers for my passage Some of our passengers going onely to Enchusen paid fiue stiuers for by couenant betweene the Cities the ships must land their passengers at Enchusen and there receiue such new passengers as they find and one ship at least is bound daily to make this passage From the said Harlingen a City of Friesland wee passed in foure houres saile to Enchusen a City of Holland which is fortified with a wall of earth and strong rampiers and lieth in length from the North to the South The Hauen lies on the East side and the new City was then building towards the West side This City lying betweene the mouth of the German sea and Amsterdam another City of Holland and in the beginning of the warre taking part with the Prince of Orange forced Amsterdam by stopping all supply of victuals to yeeld to the said Prince Hauing made short stay here we tooke ship againe and sayling from siue a clocke in the euening to twelue in the night in the same Inland sea we entered the Riuer Tay where we cast anchor till foure in the morning and then setting sayle passed one mile in that Riuer before sixe of the clocke and landed at Amsterdam Fiue streetes of this City are diuided with water the Riuer Tay flowes like a large and calme sea on the North side where is a safe port the trafficke being great in this City and at Midleburg since the passage to Antwerpe was stopped Vpon the Hauen lics a field or market place called Campplata where the Citizens vse to behold their friends going to sea and returning home From this place towards the South lies Warmerstrat a long and large street betweene two Riuers which part of the City is called the new Ditch The Merchants in summer meet vpon the Bridge and in winter they meet in the New Church in very great number where they walke in two rankes by couples one ranke going vp and another going downe and there is no way to get out of the Church except they slip out of the doores when in one of those rankes they passe by them On the East side of the City there is a wall of stone higher then the City hauing a pleasant walke vpon it In the same place are houses for exercise of shooting in gunneo and crosse-bowes beyond this wall there is another of earth and betweene these wals the new City was plotted out where of few houses were then built but since I heare it is fully finished Likewise on the South and West sides there be two like wals and between them the plot of the said new City in which many faire houses were then built The fields on all sides without the gates being fenny and drowned with water doe make the City more strong but
into Sweitzerland The lower part of which Citie vulgarly la bas rue is seated in a plaine and the rest vpon a Hill The buildings are faire and of free-stone This Citie being consederate with some of the Sweitzer Cantones and more strictly with Berna hath defended the freedome of the Citizens and the profession of Reformed Religion for many yeeres with great courage and pietie and through many miseries and practises to subduethem against the pretended rightes of the Bishop and the Duke of Sauoyes ambition and hatred he beares to the Reformed Religion The lower part thereof on the North side lies close to the South side of the Lake where is a little hauen for Gallies which they haue built to keepe free the passage of the Lake And on the same side is a strong Fort and there the Riuer Rhodanus comming out of the Lake enters the Citie and runnes through the lower part thereof hauing two bridges for passage The Duke of Sauoy who hath long watched to surprize this Citie possesseth the East side of the Lake but the Citie is carefull not to suffer him to build any Gallies thereupon and vpon the least rumour of building them armeth their Gallies to burne the same Therefore the way into Sauoy lying vpon the East South East side of the Citie in a Plaine betweene Hilles and Mountaines the Citie hath built a Fort of little circuit but great strength with fortifications of earth some Musket shot without the walles vpon that way and therein continually keepes a Garrison Not farre thence the Riuer Arba flowing from the Easterne Mountaines doth beyond the Citie fall into Rhodanus At the South Gate is a publike Church-yard for buriall and an Hospitall or Pest house which are both without the walles On the same side within the walles is a pleasant walke vpon Hilles where of old a pillar was erected with this inscription To the Emperour Caesar M. Aurelius Antoninus Pius by Foelix Aug. greatest Bishop with Tribunall power Consull c. On the West side of the Citie without the walles little Mountaines lying not farre distant might seeme dangerous for the encamping of enemies saue that on the one side they are compassed with the Territorie of Berne confederate with the Citie and on the other side with the Riuer Rhodanus so as the enemies passage to them is very difficult This Citie was of old repaired by the Emperour Aurelius and Iulius Caesar makes mention of this Citie in his first booke of the Gaules warre so as the antiquitie thereof cannot be doubted Here I had great contentment to speake and conuerse with the reuerent Father Theodore Beza who was of stature something tall and corpulent or big boned and had a long thicke beard as white as snow He had a graue Senatours countenance and was broad faced but not fat and in generall by his comely person sweete affabilitie and grauitie he would haue extorted reuerence from those that least loued him I walked with him to the Church and giuing attention to his speech it happened that in the Church porch I touched the poore mans box with my fingers and this reuerend man soone perceiued my errour who hauing vsed in Italy to dip my fingers towards the holy water according to the manner of the Papists lest the omitting of so small a matter generally vsed might make me suspected of my Religion and bring me into dangers of greater consequence did now in like sort touch this poore mans box mistaking it for the Font of holy water I say hee did soone perceiue my errour and taking me by the hand aduised me hereafter to eschew these ill customes which were so hardly forgotten When I had taken counsell with my friends if it were safe for mee to goe the right way from Geneua to Paris they being of great experience disswaded me from that iourney which could not but be dangerous the Peace being scarsely concluded and the Countrey being full of bands of Souldiers returning to their owne home which councell after I found good by Experience the mother of fooles And when they perceiued that I was obstinately purposed to passe through France into England they aduised mee rather to passe into France by the Dukedome of Loraine which for the time was more free from the tumults of warre whose councell I thought good to follow so as I was now to returne to Strassburg in Germany almost the same way I came Thus after noone I left Geneua and rode that day foure miles to Morgen The second day in the morning I rode in two houres space to Losanna and in fiue houres space to Milden where I payed eight batzen for my dinner and horse-meate After dinner in foure howers space I rode to Bitterline and payed fourteene batzen for my supper and horse-meate The third day in the morning I rode one mile as they call it in foure houres space to Morton in three howers space to Berne one of the Sweitzers Cantons through sandy fieldes of Corne and many Woods At Geneua many French Gentlemen and Students comming thither for the libertie of their religion did speake pure French and from that Citie all the people spake a barbarous French till I came neere Berne where they first began to speake the Sweitzers language Being to describe Berne giue me leaue first for Trauellers sake to mention what I haue read in some Authors that in the Territorie of Lucerna which I neuer viewed and who are earnest Papists and so may iustly bee suspected in like reports there is a wonderfull Lake vpon the banke whereof they say Pilate doth once in a yeere walke anired in Iudges robes and that whosoeuer then sees him doth die the same yeere The most faire Citie Berne hath the name of Beares in the Dutch tongue because Berthold Duke of Zeringen being to build the Citie and going fourth to hunt thought good to giue it the name of the first beast he should meete and kill And there being a Wood of Oakes in the very place where the Citie was to be built the workemen cutting the same for the building of the Citie did sing this Rime in Dutch Holtz lass dich hawen gern Die stat muss heissen Bern. Wood let vs willingly cut thee this Citie must Bern named be They write that the ground whereupon the Citie is built was of old called the Sacke and that the Citie thereupon was built in forme of a sacke This most faire City is not of any great antiquitie for Berthold the founder thereof died in the yeere 1175. It is built vpon a little Mountaine yet seemes to be seated in a Valley because it is compassed with greater Mountaines The little Mountaine whereupon it is seated is narrow and the full bredth thereof is within the walles neither is it much longer then the Citie lying in length from the West to the East in which length it hath three faire and broad streetes and is fortified round about with the Valleys of this
that hee dwelt among the Idumeans and was robbed by the Sabeans I dare not affirme that he dwelt here but I dare boldly say that I know more then Socretes did euen two things whereas he knew but one first that the Arabians to this day make excursions into these parts robbing the Carauans that goe from Haleppo to Tripoli so as if Iob were aliue and had an hundred thousand head of cattell they were as like to rob him here as in any other place Secondly I know that we passed a sad night in this place and neuer had more need of Iob his patience then here For it happened that one of the women which the leaders of the Carauan vse to haue for their attendance lighting a fire to make ready their supper by chance some sparke or flame brake out of the stones wherewith it was compassed and set the drie hearbs of the field on fire which being neglected at the first did spread it selfe for a great compasse Whereupon the Gouernour of the Prouince dwelling vpon the Mountaine and beholding the fields on fier sent to vs one Ianizary armed onely with a cudgell who fell vpon the men of our Carauan being some hundred in number beating them with his cudgell till they fell vpon the fier with the vpper long garments they vse to weare and so extinguished it In the meane time my selfe and my brother went aside lying out of his sight by the aduantage of a high ground betweene him and vs where wee were astonished to see one man armed onely with a cudgell to beate a hundred men and the very Zantons or Priests armed with swords and many Calliuers The fire being put out we thinking all safe ioyned our selues to the company againe but soone espied our errour for the Ianizare droue vs all before him like so many Calues to appeare before the Gouernour and satisfie him for this damage And if at any time we went slowly hee wheeled his cudgell about his head and crying Wohowe Rooe presently struck them that were next him My brother and my selfe treated with him by the way to giue him a reward that he would dismisse vs but when he gaue this warning we were the first to run from him with laughter to see our men thus driuen like beasts and commending to our selues the honesty of the man who first gaue warning before he struck Then presently assoone as wee did see the Gentleman pacified we returned againe to him with our Muccaro to interpret our words and told him that we were the seruants of a Christian Merchant and had no goods in the Carauan nor any thing to doe with them and offering him a reward so he would let vs returne For we knew that the Turks would take any occasion to oppresse vs as Christians and that the Gouernor would haue dealt worse with the Carauan if he perceiued that Christians were with them Thus we often sled from him when he gaue the said signe of anger for howsoeuer wee offered him a gift yet wee could not otherwise escape his blowes and often we returned to him being pacified offering him a gift to dismisse vs which at last wee obtained giuing him a zechine When we were dismissed wee were in no lesse feare of some violence while wee returned alone and vnarmed to the place where our baggage lay but going forward betweene hope and feare at last we came safe thither and there hid our selues til our consorts should returne who after an howers space returning told vs that the chiefe of the Carauan being the cause of the fire making had paid ten piastri for the damage and the Gouernour swore that if the fire had gone ouer the Mountaine into the plaine field of Corne hee would haue hanged vs all vpon the highest trees on the top of the Mountaine This Tragedy ended wee refreshed our selues with meate and sleepe Vpon Monday early in the morning we set forward and spent eight howers in ascending the Mountaine which was very high but the way easie with many turnings about the Mountaine which of it selfe without manuring yeelded many wilde but pleasant fruits seeming to passe in pleasantnesse the best manured Orchards Vpon the top of the Mountaine we met some horsemen of the Army not without feare of some violence to be offered vs till we vnderstood that they were sent out to purge the high waies of theeues They were armed with Launces Shields and short broad Swords so as a man would haue said they had been the Knights of Amades de Gaule Neither is it vnprobable that those fictions came from the horsemen of Asia since wee did see some mile from Tripoli a Bridge called the Bridge of Rodomont and a Fountaine neere Scandarona called the Amazons Fountaine and many like monuments in these parts When wee had passed the foresaid high Mountaine wee came into a very large and fruitfull Plaine of Corne which was yet vncut-downe Here we refreshed our selues and our beasts with meate resting neere a Fountaine for the Turkes require no better Inne for their beasts and themselues then a Fountaine of cleere water After dinner we went forward in this Plaine and did see some Villages which in this vast Empire are very rare and neere one of these Villages wee did sit downe at night supping and resting in the open field Vpon Tuesday earely in the morning we tooke our iourny and for sixe howers passed in the same Plaine hauing not so much as the shaddow of one tree and came to the City Aman which in the Scripture the second of the Kings the seuenteenth Chapter is called Hamath being some three dayes iourney from Damasco This Citie is of large circuit and pleasantly seated vpon two Hilles for the third Hill of the Castle hath nothing but ruines hauing a Riuer running by it and abounding with Orchards of Palmes and fruitfull trees and neere the same were sixe Villages in sight Here we rested part of this day and the next night the Master of our Carauan hauing businesse in the City neither imported it where we lodged for they haue no publike Innes nor beds in any house nor Cookes but euery man buyes his meate and can dresse it But to the end wee might be ready to goe early with the Carauan in the morning most of vs lodged in poore houses of the Suburbs My selfe and my brother being to sleepe in the yard vpon our owne quilts and the yard declining from the house to the bottome where our beasts were tied wee laid our selues downe vpon the top of the Hill but in the morning found our selues tumbled downe between the feet of the Asses Camels when I could not remember the English Innes without sighing This Citie hath great traffique and aboundeth with necessaries to sustaine life and here our Muccaro bought for vs sower Curds vulgarly caled Mish Mash for two meidines a cheese for sixe three hennes for three meidines twenty eggs for foure meidines Cucumers for three milke for fiue Aqua
vitae which they call Harach and drinke as largely as Wine for ten meidines foure pounds of wine for one zechine Bisket for the Turkes haue no other bread but cakes baked on the harth for thirty meidines which things we prouided for our Supper and to carry with vs by the way yet might we haue bought and did buy most things by the way excepting Wine and Bread which are hardly found and must be carried by those that will haue them The guide of our Carauan was detained here by his businesse most part of the next day being Wednesday and in the meane time it fortunately happened that a Turkish Basha returning with his traine from his Gouernement and being to goe our way rested here so as his company freed vs the rest of our iourney from feare of theeues Vpon Wednesday in the afternoone we setforward in the company of this Basha and iournied all night in this Plaine wherein there was not the shadow of one tree and at eight of the clock the next morning we did sit downe in the open field resting vnder the ruines of old walles Here the Ianizaries of the Basha inquired curiously after the condition of me and my brother so as our Muccaro aduised vs to giue them halfe a piastro which they receiuing promised to defend vs from all iniury but in the meane time they did so swallow our wine as when it was spent we were forced to drinke water to which we were not vsed Vpon Thursday at three of the clock in the afternoone we set forward and about midnight we came to the Citie Marrha where our Muccaro and diuers others payed each of them ten meidines for cafar or tribute and at the Citie Gate a man was hanged in chaines also the next day we did see another impalled that is sitting and rotting vpon a stake fastned in the ground and thrust into his fundament and bowels Vpon Friday before day wee set forward and passing a stony barren way but full of Walnut trees vpon which many birds did sit and sing wee came in foure houers space to an Hospitall which they call Caon and it was stately built of stone in a round forme with arches round about the Court-yard vnder which arches each seuerall company chose their place to eate and rest both which they must doe vpon the ground except they bring Tables and beds with them Neither were any victuals there to be sold or dressed but euery man bought his victuals in the Village adioyning and dressed it after his manner The same Friday at foure in the afternoone wee went forward and riding all night did vpon Saturday early in the morning sleepe an hower in the open field while meate was giuen to our beasts Then going forward we came by Noone the same day being the nine and twentie of Iune after the Popes new stile which I haue followed hitherto being in company of Italians and Friers to the famous Citie of Haleppo where the English Merchants liuing in three houses as it were in Colledges entertained my brother and mee very 〈◊〉 And George Dorington the Consul of the English there led vs to the house wherein he liued with other Merchants and there most courteously entertained vs with plentifull diet good lodging and most friendly conuersation refusing to take any money for this our entertainement And howsoeuer wee brought him onely a bill of exchange for one hundred Crownes yet when we complained to him that we now perceiued the same would not serue our turnes hee freely lent vs as much more vpon our owne credit Yea when after my brothers death my selfe fell dangerously sicke and was forced to goe from those parts before I could recouer my health so as all men doubted of my returne into England yet he lent me a farre greater summe vpon my bare word which howsoeuer I duly repayed after my comming into England yet I confesse that I cannot sufficiently acknowledge his loue to mee and his noble consideration of poore and afflicted strangers The Citie Haleppo is said to haue the name of Halep which signifies milke because the Prouince is most fruitfull or of the word Aleph as the chiefe Citie of Syria and to haue been called of old Aram Sohab mentioned the second of Samuel the eight Chapter and third verse or at least to be built not farre from the ruines thereof The Trafficke in this place is exceeding great so as the goods of all Asia and the Easterne Ilands are brought hither or to Cayro in Egypt And before the Portugals found the way into East India these commodities were all brought from these two Cities And the Venetians and some free Cities of Italy solly enioyed all this trafficke of old But after that time the Portugals trading in East India serued all Europe with these commodities selling them yea and many adulterate Druggs at what price they listed cutting off most part of this trafficke from the Italians At last the French King making league with the great Turke the Merchants of Marsiles were made partners of this trafficke and in our age the English vnder the Raigne of Queene Elizabeth obtained like priuiledge though great opposition was made against them by the Venetians French Merchants And the Turkey company in London was at this time the richest of all other silently enioying the safety and profit of this trafficke vnderstand that when I wrote this the trafficke into the East Indies was nothing at all or very little knowne to the English or Flemmings This City lies within Land the Port whereof called Alexandretta by the Christians and Scanderona by the Turkes I shall hereafter describe The building of this City as of all houses in Syria is like to that of Ierusalem but one roofe high with a plaine top plaistered to walke vpon and with Arches before the houses vnder which they walke dry and keepe shops of wares The City is nothing lesse then well fortified but most pleasantly seated hauing many sweet gardens The aire was so hot as me thought I supped hot broth when I drew it in but it is very subtile so as the Christians comming hither from Scanderona a most vnhealthfull place hauing the aire choaked with Fens continually fall sicke and often die And this is the cause that the English Factors imployed here seldome returne into England the twentieth man scarcely liuing till his prentiship being out he may trade here for himselfe The Christians here and the Turkes at the Christians cost drinke excellent wines where of the white wines grow in that territory but the red wines are brought from Mount Libanus Moreouer all things for diet are sold at cheape rates and indeed the Turkes want not good meat but only good Cookes to dresse it The English Merchants can beare me witnes that these parts yeeld sheepe whereof the taile of one wreathed to the ground doth weigh some thirty or more pounds in fat and wooll In one of the City gates they shew the Sepulcher
multitude of Turkes and Moores ceased not to girne laugh at our sighes and teares neither know I why my heart-strings brake not in these desperate afflictions but I am sure from that day to this I neuer enioied my former health and that this houre was the first of my old age Towards the euening the same fourth day of Iuly we descended with the said English Factor taking care to haue our baggage carried from the mountaines towards Scanderona little distant frō this place in the furthest Northerne part of the vally vpon the seashore From hence Iasper Tyant our louing consort in this misery returned back to Haleppo but my selfe not knowing what to resolue nor hauing power to thinke of disposing my selfe remained at Scanderona in the English Factors house The next night while I lay waking I heard multitudes of Woolues as I thought howling vpon the mountaines of Byland and in the morning I vnderstood by the English Merchant that a kind of beast little bigger then a Foxe and ingendered betweene Foxes and Wolues vulgarly called Iagale vsed to range vpon these mountaines in troopes and many times to scratch the bodies of the dead out of their graues whereupon I hired an Asse to carry me and a Ianizare to accompany me and went to see the place of my brothers buriall from which part I thought to heare those howlings And there beyond my expectation I found that they had scratched vp the earth almost to his body and the Turkes made no doubt but that these beasts hiding themselues from day light would according to their manner returne the next night to deuoure his body Therefore I hired many poore people to bring stones whereof I made such a pile round about his body as I preserued that prey from their cursed iawes which done I returned to Scanderona so called by the Turkes which the Christians call Alexandretta This is a poore Village built all of straw and durt excepting the houses of some Christian Factors built of timber and clay in some conuenient sort and it lies along the sea-shoare For the famous Citie of Haleppo hauing no other Hauen the Merchants doc here vnloade their goods but themselues make haste to Haleppo staying as little here as possibly they can and committing the care of carrying their goods thither vpon Camels to the Factors of their Nation continually abiding here The pestilent aire of this place is the cause that they dare not make any stay here for this Village seated in Cilicia now called Caramania is compassed on three sides with a Fenny Plaine and the fourth side lies vpon the Sea In the way to Haleppo as I remember towards the East there is in this Plaine a Fountaine of cleare water some mile distant from this Village and howsoeuer all other waters falling out of the Fen are most vnwholsome yet the goodnes of this Fountaine is so much prized as the Merchants vse to carrie their meate thither and eate there vnder a pleasant shade Not farre from this Fountaine there stands an old Castle at the foote of the mountaines which they call the Castle of Penthesilea Queene of the Amazons On the same side beyond the Fen is a most high mountaine which keepes the sight of the Sunne from Scandarona and being full of bogges infects the Fenny Plaine with ill vapours and beyond this mountaine my dearest brother lies buried On the other side towards the North as I remember in the way leading to Constantinople the like Fenny Plaine lies and the mountaines though more remote doe barre the sight of the Sunne and the boggy earth yeelding ill vapours makes Scanderona infamous for the death of Christians On the same side Asia the lesse stretcheth it selfe into the sea towards the West and in the next shoare thereof is a pleasant Village now called Bias which of old was called Tarsus where Saint Paul was borne being sixe miles from Scanderona and seated in the same Prouince of Cilicia and abounding with fruits silke-wormes and al things necessarie to sustaine life Scanderona on the South side towards Palestina is also compassed with the like fenny Plaine but farre more large then on the other sides Finally on the West side towards the Sea and Italy is a safe Hauen in the furthest part of the Mediteranean Sea towards the East And into this Sea the Prophet Ionas was cast and preserued miraculously by a Whale was in this part cast vpon the shoare they say that the Owes of the Sea doe here much increase the malignitie of the aire yet the Sea men vse to sleep in their ships and seldome to come on land till the Sunne be risen aboue the mountains hiding it and hath drawne vp the ill vapours The foresaid mountaines of Cilicia are held for part of Mount Taurus which in Scythia is called Caucasus and in these parts Amanus I haue formerly said that these parts neere the Equinoctiall Line haue seldome any raine but the earth is commonly moistned with the dew falling after Sunne-set But while I staied here a great tempest fell of thunder haile and raine vpon the seuenth of August and the raine did not fall by drops but by pailefuls as wee reade it falles but much more violently towards West India and neere the Equinoctiall Line and as no violent thing is perpetuall so this tempest soone passed Shortly after I came to this vnhappy Village Scanderona the griefe of my mind cast me into a great sicknesse so as I who in perfect health had passed so many Kingdomes of Europe at this time in the very flower of my age first began to wax old This sicknesse brought the first weakenesse to my body and the second proceeding of another griefe after my returne into England tooke from mee all thought of youthfull pleasures and demonstratiuely taught me that the Poet most truly said Cura facit canos that is Care maketh gray-headed While I languished here in a lasting sicknes it hapned that vpon occasion I looked vpon the two testimonies giuen to my brother and my self at Ierusalem of our hauing been there and I was not a little astonished to see that they being both at the same time cut out of the same skin of parchment and written with the same hand and inck yet that of my brother was in all parts eaten with wormes when mine was altogether vntouched And after I did more wonder that to this day the same Testimonie giuen to my brother is no more eaten with wormes then at that time it was and mine still remaines vnperished My foresaid sicknesse was so vehement and so long that all men doubted I would neuer recouer so as my friends in England after they had heard of my brothers death were aduertised within few weekes that my selfe also was dead But for my part though my nightly dreames that I was walking in the caues and sepulchers of Italy might haue somewhat discouraged me and though I had no other Phisitian then the
owne troopes were like to spoile these Countries and our men sent to Loughfoyle should plant themselues with more case shortly be able to spoile both Tyrone and Odonnels Country For Lemster a thousand foot and a hundred horse were to draw into Ophalia to build vp the Togher to victuall the Fort of Phillipstone and to spoile the Connors Macgoghegans Omoloyes and Mac Coghlins This done it was concluded these forces should passe into Leex thereto attend direction or if that passage were difficult then to returne the way they went and by the way to send for further direction And to further the last prosecution the O Carrols were commanded at the same time to innade the Omoloyes and the Lord of Delain and Sir Francis Shane were to meet and ioyne with the Lord Dunkellin in Mac Coghlins Countrey and thereto inuade the neighbour Rebels The third of Aprill the Lord Deputy aduertised Master Secretary that the Queene had few Subiects in Ireland of any sort who had not either some kinde of intelligence with Tyrone or had not framed their hearts that way whereof the whole Pale made sufficient ouerture by a petition lately deliuered and by their contestation at the Counsell Table That the old Earle of Clanrickard at Tyrones going into Mounster had taken day with him till May next to declare himselfe on that party But that the Lord of Dunkellin his eldest soone hated by his younger brother whom the father esteemed much aboue him gaue him great confidence of his firme alleagiance who supecting his fathers disposition that way had taken occasion by repairing to Dublin and after going for England to put himselfe as a gage and bridle to his fathers proceedings Concluding that 〈◊〉 the Lord Deputy had taken order for securing the Castle of Athlone but that all his hope of keeping the Prouince of Connaght in obedience was in the Lord of Dunkellins honesty Neither was the Lord Deputy deceiued in this worthy Lord who 〈◊〉 during his fathers life so from his death happening within few moneths to the end of the warre serued the Queene as nobly valiantly and faithfully as any nobleman or gentleman in the army The Lord Deputy explaned the danger of the Irish Commanders and Companies yet for the time shewed the remedy to be more dangerous then the disease protesting that her Maiesty could not take a more unprofitable way to satisfie the Irish sutors then by giuing them Companies His Lordship further aduertised Master Secretary that vpon Tyrones retiring out of Mounster into the North in manner of a fearefull flight he the Lord Deputy had 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 In the Earle of Ormond such Companies as were not appointed for Mounster and vpon their arriuall to Athye had sent Sir Richard Moryson to take possession of the gouernement of Leau and Sir Oliuer Lambert to leade and bring backe the forces sent with victuals to relieue the Fort called Mariabourg of Queene Mary seituate in Leax otherwise called the Queenes County which fort being before in extreame 〈◊〉 now he had supplied for three moneths That he had imployed Brimingham who had about that time submitted himselfe to the Queenes mercy to put in some Cowes into the Fort of Ophaly That he purposed to prosecute the Rebels in Lemster with one thousand foote and a hundred horse and to lodge the rest in garrisons vpon the North so as on the sudden he might diuert Tyrone from resisting our present plantation at Loughfoyle That hee would presently send a thousand old souldiers from Dublyn to Loughfoyle and likewise with them such as were to lie in garrison at Ballishannon vnder the command of Sir Matthew Morgan but that for some difficulties they could not yet be setled there yet lying at Loughfoyle in the meane time might doe seruice and alwaies be ready to be sent thither That Tyrones confederates were discouraged at his fearefull retreat into the North which could not haue beene greater if he had beene broken with an Army For after an vnreasonable dayes march hearing of the Lord Deputies drawing towards him within one houre of his sitting downe he did presently rise againe at seuen a clocke in the night and being assaulted by some of our scattered bands still marched leauing to the sword as many of his men as were ingaged and leauing or leesing all his carriages so as now almost euery day the heads of some rebels or others were sent him and many seruices were of late done as therecouery of a prey by the garrison at the Naas with the killing of many Rebels and the defeat of one hundred and forty Rebels by Sir Francis Shane whereof forty fiue were killed and of them some foureteene with his owne hand And the Rebels of Lemster daily made meanes to be receiued to mercy Onely the Townes were the stores of the Rebels and stood so saucily vpon their priuiledges as a sharpe rod and strong hand were requisite to amend them For which cause his Lordship aduised that the Castle of Lymerik might be repaired to bridle that Town which seemed of more importance then any other City of that Kingdome whatsoeuer That the dispairing rebels were by Tirones cunning raised to some hopes by two ships lately come into the North out of Spaine which brought the rebels some munition and either assurance of great and present succours or Tyrone at least so vsed their comming to his purpose as the rebels beleeued such aussrance was giuen Besides many Priests came in those ships of which one termed himselfe the Popes Legat and Leger Ambassadour for the King of Spaine and Archbishop of Dublin giuing out that he was content to suffer death if he preached not in Dublyn before Michaelmas day Whereupon the Rebels beganne to auow themselues the King of Spaines subiects and onely the expectation of Loughfoyle garrison together with the doubt of these succours kept the very Pale from the boldnes to professe the same Lastly his Lordship vehemently complained that her Maiesty by absolute command disposed of charges in that Kingdome so as he could neither pleasure his owne friends nor reward her Maiesties best seruants yea that hauing already giuen the gouernement of Leax to Sir Richard Moryson a friend whom he confessed especially to loue and whom he would vndertake to beas worthy in his profession as any of his time or any the Queene had in that Kingdome now by the Lords Letters signifying her Maiesties pleasure he was forced to his friends and his owne disgrace to conferre the place on another and in conclusion besought her Maiesty in such recommendations to leaue them somewhat to his choice promising to execute them or else to yeeld great reason to the contrary The sixth of Aprill the Lord Deputy aduertised Master Secretary that the Earle of Ormond was gone from Dublyn to his Country hauing made great complements of affection to her Maiesties seruice yet it was apparant that either he was growne weaker in iudgement or worse affected to the Queenes seruice then
by reason our Companies were very deficient in the numbers of the List hauing not been supplied out of England of a long time and because this noble dealing with the Spaniards in the Castle might induce those in Kinsale to leaue the Towne vpon like composition when they felt the misery whereunto wee hoped ere long to bring them About one hower of the day the Alfiero sent word to the Lord President by that time returned that he would quit all their Armes and render the place so as they might be suffered thus vnarmed to goe into Kinsale which being refused hee intreated that himselfe alone might hold his Armes and bee put into Kinsale which being also refused he resolutely resolued to burie himselfe in the Castle His Company seeing him desperately bent not to yeeld did threaten to cast him out of the breach so as they might be receiued to mercy So as at last he consented to yeeld and that all his people should be disarmed in the Castle which was committed to Captaine Roger Haruy then Captaine of the Guards to see it done that the Alfiero himself should weare his sword till hee came to the Lord President to whom he should render it vp And this being done they were all brought prisoners into the Campe and immediatly sent from thence to Corke The Spanish thus yeelded were in number fourescore and sixe and foure women whose names I haue but omit them for breultie besides a great multitude of Irish Churles Women and Children but not any Swordmen for those being skilfull in the waies had all escaped one Dermot Mac Carty only excepted who was a Pensioner to the King of Spaine and heretofore a follower to Florence Mac Carty Also some thirtie Spaniards had been slaine in the defence of this Castle which was now yeelded to vs those in Kinsale not making one shot at our men the while but standing as men amased The second of Nouember finding how much we had to doe in taking Rincorran Castle with our weake prouisions it was concluded that all attempts against Kinsale Towne were in vaine till wee were better furnished for such a businesse which notwithstanding we made daily countenance to take in hand This day we drew our Ordinance from the Castle into our Camps The third day of Nouember the Spanish Serieant Maior in Britauny taken in a skirmish and the Alfero yeelding at Rincorran obtained licence to write to Don Iean de l' Aguyla and one of our Drums had licence to carry their letters who staied in the towne all the following night And this day his Lordship receiued letters of supplies sent out of England whereupon he wrote to the Counsell at Dublin and to Sir Arthur Chichester to make stay of certaine Companies which lately hee had directed to bee brought out of the North and the Pale to the Campe at Kinsale Touching the said supplies her Maiestie writ to the Lord Deputie this letter following Elizabeth Regina RIght trusty and well beloued Wee greet you well Vpon such aduertisements as Wee haue receiued from diuers places of a Fleete dispatched from Spaine with a good number of men of warre to bee landed in that Our Realme in assistance of Our Rebcls there We haue thought good to send from hence some further forces for increase of Our Army there to enable you the better to make head against them if they shall fortune to land Wherefore We haue caused to be leauied here the number of two thousand men and appointed them to be embarked by the twentieth day of this moneth of October aboue the other two thousand lately sent vnto you For this two thousand now leauied because We cannot certainely iudge here whether you shall finde most commodious for Our seruice either to vse them for the filling vp of decaied Bands there or to retaine them in Companies or to employ some of them for filling vp the decares of other Companies and to retaine other some in Bands We haue thought good to leaue the disposition of them to your discretion with the aduice of our Councell and onely to authorize you hereby that forasmuch as any part of them which you shall retaine in seuerall Bands will be aboue the number of Our Establishment for the payment whereof neither you nor Our Treasurer haue any warrant that you may giue warrantto Our Treasurer for the paiment of the whole or any part of the said two thousand which you shall find necessarie to retaine in Our pay in Bands seuerall aboue the number of Our Establishment or any other former Warrant limited the said paiment to be made in lending and apparrell as other Our souldiers there are paied and to begin from the day of their landing there Since the writing of thus much to you concerning the two thousand preparing Wee haue receiued aduertisements of the landing of the Spaniards at Kinsale whereupon we haue added a further supplie of three thousand men more to be sent to you And for that it may be We shall haue cause to increase or alter the numbers of Our Armie as Our seruice shall require We doe therefore giue you warrant to giue order from time to time for the paiment of all such numbers of men there either horse or foote aboue the number limited by Our Establishment as you shall bee from Our priuy Councell here or sixe of them whereof our Treasurer of England and Our principall Secretarie to be two authorized to retaine in Our pay as Our seruice shall require Giuen vnder Our Signet at Our Mannor of Richmond the fourth day of October in the fortie thee yeere of Our Raigne Postscript Of al these numbers two thousand shal be imbarked in Our own ships by the fourteenth of this October at Rochester because they shal be secured in their transportation Two thousand more shall bee sent by the twentieth of this moneth to Bristow and Barstable and the fifth odde thousand shall be sent to Loughsoyles so as Out leauie is now in all fiue thousand men The same day his Lordship receiued another letter from the Queene of her owne hand and signed below not aboue as the vsually signed as followeth SInce the braine-sicke humour of vnaduised assault hath seized on the hearts of Out causelesse foes We doubt not but their gaine will be their baine and glory their shame that euer they had the thought thereof And that your humour agrees so fightly with Ours Wee thinke it most fortunately happened in your Rule to shew the better whose you are and what you be as your owne hand writ hath told Vs of late and doe beseech the Almightie power of the Highest so to guide your hands that nothing light in vaine but to prosper your heede that nothing be left behind that might auaile your praise and that your selfe in venturing too farre make not the foe a prey of you Tell Our Army from Vs that they make full account that euery hundred of them will beate a thousand and euery thousand
commanded by himselfe by Captaine Hobbies company commanded by himselfe Captaine Nuses commanded by his Lieftenant and by Captaine Roger Haruy his company himselfe commanding in chiefe as Captaine of the watch there that night for as euery Colonell watched each third night so euery Captaine watched in one place or other each second night Also this night the Fort on the West side neere the Towne betweene the two Campes which was cast vp the day before was manned by Captaine Flower commanding in chiefe and his company by Captaine Spencer and his company by Captaine Dillon and his company and by the companies of Sir Arthur Sauage Sir Iohn Dowdall Captain Masterson and Sir William Warren commanded by their Liefetenants together with certaine squadrons out of the Earle of Thomonds quarter in our second campe which stood in guard without the Trenches Now within an hower after night and some two houres before the Moone rose it being very darke and rainy the Spaniard impatient of the Forts building the day before so close to the Townes West gate and resoluing to attempt brauely on our Ordinance planted on the East side made a braue sally with some two thousand men and first gaue slightly towards the Trenches on the West side but presently with a grosse and their chiefe strength fell vpon the Trenches in which the Artillery lay on the East side continuing their resolution to force it with exceeding fury hauing brought with them Tooles of diuers sorts to pull downe the Gabbyons and the Trenches as also Spykes to cloy the Ordinance The allarum being taken in the campe the Marshall and Serieant Maior Sir Richard Moryson Sir William Fortescue Sir Francis Rushe and Captaine Roc fallied presently with some sixe hundred men towards the Cannon and Sir Beniamin Berry with some one hundred men fell directly towards the Port of the Towne next to the Campe and the Lord Deputy sent out Sir Oliuer Saint Iohns with seconds Vpon the Marshals arriuall and charge the enemy brake and our men did execution vpon them Sir Bentamin Berry fell directly vpon the enemies seconds whom he charged and brake killing many of them and taking the Commander of that body being an ancient Captaine of great estimation with the enemy At the same time the enemy gaue vpon our trenches and Fort built the day before on the West side and continued the attempt long with great fury till Captaine Flower in heate and without direction sallying out of the Fort to follow part of their forces discomfited the enemie entered the Fort before he could returne and possessed themselues of our trenches Yet still our men continued the fight and Sir William Godolphin gaue many braue charges with his horse to countenance our men till the Earle of Clanrickard was sent to second them on this part with Captaine Skipwith Captaine Clare Captaine Boise Captaine Thomas Bourke and some threescore men for the rest of the Regiment was not aduanced so farre Then his Lordship and the rest charged the enemies grosse being without the Fort and brake them and did execution vpon them falling towards the towne and so returning thence entred the West Fort again with little resistance for the enemie abandoned it This Fort his L P. and his Company made good till he was relieued from the Lord Deputie In this salley in all the enemy left in the field aboue one hundred and twenty dead bodies besides such as were killed neere the Towne and could not next day bee discerned by vs. And wee tooke thirteene prisoners among whom was a Captaine Reformado as they terme them for honour of antiquitic who was taken by Henslo Captaine of our Pioners and a Serieant and a Drumme After we heard by some of the Towne that they left dead aboue two hundred of their best men among whom were two Captaines two Alferoes and the Serieant Maior being the second Commander to Don Iean and Don Carloes and that more then two hundred of them were hurt On our part Captaine Flower Captaine Skipwith and the Earle of Clanrickards Lieutenant were hurt and Captaine Spencer and Captaine Dillon and Captaine Flowers Lieutenant were killed in the West Fort who staying in the Fort when Captaine Fllower sallied were there found dead in the place which they were commanded to make good and with their faces to the enemie in as honourable manner as could be expected from any souldier The enemy sallying on our Fort guarding our Cannon cloyed a demy-culuering of ours which being a little crased was left without the Fort but the next morning it was made seruiceable againe Some of them were killed vpon the cannon and vpon the powder and the trenches about the cannon were in some places filled with dead bodies for in that particular attempt they left seuenty two bodies dead in the place and those of their best men whereof some were found hauing spikes and hammers to cloy the cannon And in generall among the dead bodies many were found to haue spels caracters and hallowed meddals which they woare as preseruations against death and most of them when they were stripped were seene to haue scarres of Venus warfare Wee tooke some fortie shouels and as many mattocks and much Armes left in the field which tooles were so massie as they had great aduantage of vs therein and the sight of them would haue put her Maiesties Ministers of the Ordinance to shame who for priuate gaine sent sale ware to vs vnfit to be vsed In defending this fort of the cannon Captaine Rotheram and Iames 〈◊〉 Ensigne woon great reputation by their valour and the courage they gaue to others Because the Earle of Clanrickards Company had watched the night before this Sir Henry Follyot was sent with his Regiment to guard the Westerne fort till morning Some hower before this skirmish the Lord Deputie was aduertised by one Donnogh O Driscoll that sixe Spanish ships were put into Castle Hauen and that six more were sent with them from the Groyne but in the way were scattered from these by tempest and that since it was not knowne what became of them That in these six ships arriued were two thousand Spaniards with great store of Ordinance and Munition and that by their report twentie thousand more were comming presently after them The third of December by reason of rany weather nothing could be done onely vpon relation of a French runnaway that the enemy purposed to sally againe some of our men were for a short time drawne to Armes but in vaine The fourth day we receiued a confirmation of the Spaniards arriual at Castlehauen whereupon it was resolued in Counsel that our first camp should be more strongly fortified and that al our horse should be drawne into it and that the quarter or lesser camp on the West side consisting now onely of three Regiments namely of the Earle of Thomond Sir Richard Percy and Sir Christopher Saint Laurence should rise and sit downe farther off towards the South-gate hauing
can and with some resolution that your Excellencies fighting as they doe alwaies I hope in God the victorie shall be ours without doubt because the cause is his And I more desire the victory for the interest of your Excellencies then my owne And so there is nothing to be done but to bring your squadrons come well appointed and close withall and being mingled with the enemies their Forts wil doe as much harme to them as to vs. I commend my selfe to Don Ricardo The Lord keepe your Excellencies From Kinsale the eight and twentieth the new stile being the eighteenth after the old stile of December 1601 Though you be not well fitted I beseech your Excellencies to dislodge and come toward the enemy for expedition imports It is needfull that we all be on horsebacke 〈◊〉 and the greater haste the better Signed by Don I can del Aguyla The nineteenth day was so extreme rainy as we could doe little or nothing The twentieth in the morning being very faire our Ordinance plaied and brake downe good part of the wall of the Towne And to the end we might sharpen Tyrone whose lying so neere did more annoy vs by keeping reliefe from vs then hee was like to hurt vs by any attempt or if Tyrones force came not vp sooner that wee might proceede more roundly this day another great breach was made beneath the Platforme and though many shot were made to hinder vs yet by the next morning the worke was brought to good perfection The night was stormy with great lightning and terrible thunder to the wonder of all considering the season of the yeere and this night came certaine intelligence that Tyrone drawne on by Don Ieans importunity determined presently to set vp his rest for the reliefe of the Towne and that the next night he would lodge within a mile and halfe of our Campe. The one and twentieth ourscouts confirmed the same and towards night Tyrone shewed himselfe with all his horse and foote vpon a hill within a mile of vs in the way to Corkes Whereupon two Regiments of our foote and most of our horse being drawne out of the Campe made towards them but when they saw our men resolutely come forward they fell back to a Fastnesse of wood and water where they encamped This night being light with continuall flashings of lightning the Spaniards sallied againe and gaue vpon a trench newly made beneath our Canon but were the sooner repelled because wee kept very strong Guards ond euery man was ready to be in Armes by reason of Tyrones being so neere vnto vs. The two and twentieth Tyrones horse and foote often shewed themselues from an Hill beyond which they incamped in a Wood yet our Artillery still plaied vpon the Towne breaking downe the Wall and some Turrets from whence the Spaniards shot annoyed our men Many intelligences confirmed that Tyrone on the one side and the Spaniards on the other had a purpose to force our Campe. This night the Spaniards sallied and gaue vpon a trench close to the West-side of the Towne which the Serieant that kept it did quit but Sir Christopher Saint Laurence appointed to second him came vp with some foote and did heat the Spaniards into the Towne before they could doe any great hurt saue onely a little defacing it Our Artillery still plaied vpon the Towne that they might see wee went on with our businesse as if wee cared not for Tyrones comming but it was withall carried on in such a fashion as wee had no meaning to make a breach because wee thought it not fit to offer to enter and so put all to hazard vntill wee might better discouer what Tyrone meant to doe whose strength was assured to bee very great and wee found by letters of Don Ieans which wee had intercepted that hee had aduised Tyrone to set vpon our Camps telling him that it could not bee chosen but our men were much decayed by the Winters siege and so that wee should hardly bee able to maintaine so much ground as wee had taken when our strength was greater if wee were well put to on the one side by them and on the other side by him which hee would not faile for his part to doe resolutely And it was most true that our men dailie died by dozens so as the sicke and runnawaies considered wee were growne as weake as at our first setting downe before our supplies of foure thousand foote The strength of our Regiments the three and twentieth of December The Lord Deputies Regiment had able men 715. The Lord Presidents Regiment able men 556. The Earle of Clanrickards Regiment able men 529. The Earle of Thomonds Regiment 572. The Lord Audley his Aegiment 370. Sir Richard Percies Regiment 544. Sir Richard Morysons Regiment 541. Sir Oliuer Saint Iohns his Regiment 515. Sir Charles Wilmotts Regiment 454. Sir Henry Follyots Regiment 595. Sir Christopher Saint Laurences Regiment of Irish 747. Sir Henrie Powers Squadron volant or flying Regiment drawne out of the former Regiments after the making of the Lyst in Nouember last 449. The Totall of Foote able men besides runawaies and hurt and sicke lying aswell in the Campe as at Corke 6595. This euening one of the chiefe Commanders in Tyrones Army hauing some obligations to the Lord President sent a messenger to him for a bottle of Vsquebagh and by a letter wished him that the English Army should that night bee well vpon their guard for Tyrone meant to giue vpon one Campe and the Spaniards vpon the other meaning to spare no mans life but the Lord Deputies and his Don Iean de l' Aguila after confessed to the Lord President that notwithstanding our sentinels he and Tyrone the night following had three messengers the one from the other All the night was cleare with lightning as in the former nights were great lightnings with thunder to the astonishment of many in respect of the season of the yeere And I haue heard by many horsemen of good credit and namely by Captaine pikeman Cornet to the Lord Deputies troope a Gentleman of good estimation in the Army that this night our horsemen set to watch to their seeming did see Lampes burne at the points of their staues or speares in the middest of these lightning flashes Tyrones guides missed the way so as hee came not vpto our Campe by night as the Spaniards ready in Armes howerly expected but earely about the breake of the next day The foure and twentieth of December some halfe hower before day the Lord Deputie in his house sitting at Counsell with the Lord President and Master Marshall as thinking the intended enterprise of the enemie by some accident to bee broken suddenly one of the Lord Presidents horsemen called him at the dore and told him that Tyrones Army was come vp very neere to our Campe. And Sir Richard Greame hauing the Scout that night when hee discouered that Tyrone with his forces was on foote marching towards the
may receiue our further directions And for so doing this shall be your sufficient warrant Giuen at Tredagh the foure and twenty of March 1602. To Our trusly and well beloued Sir William Godolphin and Sir Garret More Knights VVhen I had written this Commission his Lordship commanded me to write this following protection Mountioy WHereas vpon the humble suite and submission of Hugh Earle of Tyrone and his penitent contrition for his former offences by many messages and letters signified vnto Vs We haue thought good to receiue into her Maiesties most gracious protection his owne person and such as shall come in his Company with safety to him and them and the rest of his followers whatsoeuer dwelling in the County of Tyrone or now abiding with him aswell in their bodies as goods for and during the space of three weekes to the end hee might repaire vnto vs to let vs more fully vnderstand his humble petitions These are straightly to charge and command all and euery her Maiesties Officers Ministers and Subiects to permit and suffer him and them peaceably to enioy the benefit thereof without any restraint molestation or hostile act against him or his in their bodies or goods during the time aboue limitted So as in the meane time hec and they continue of good and dutifull behauiour towards her Maiesty and this State Giuen at Tredagh the foure and twentieth of March 1602. To all Commanders of horse and foot and to all other her Maiesties Officers and Subiects to whom it may appertaine Likewise his Lordship commanded me to write seuerall letters to the Gouernours of Garrisons requiring them to giue Tyrone and his followers full benefit of this Protection And these writings being all signed by the Lord Deputy were deliuered to Sir William Godolphin with charge that when Tyrone was in his Company and on the way to come to his Lordship then and not before hee should deliuer him the Protection and likewise the letters to bee sent to the seuerall Garrisons by his owne messengers These Commissioners on the six and twentieth of March sent one Bathe from Armagh to Tyrone to prepare the way of their meeting The seuen and twentieth both the Commissioners came to Charlemont where Sir William Godolphin staied for his troope of horse but Sir Garret Moore rode that night to Tullough-oge where he spake with Tyrone The eight and twentieth Sir Garret Moore wrote to Sir William that Tyrone was fully resolued to obey the Lord Deputies commandements and would meet him the next morning at nine of the clocke to ride forward in his company to the Lord Deputy And Henry Hagan who brought this letter gaue Sir William confident assurance of Tyrones performance The same eight twentieth day the L. Deputy being at Mellifant and there hauing the foresaid notice of the Queenes death and considering that this rumor was no good ground for a new treatie with Tyrone yet breaking out were it true or false might cause new combustions in Ireland most apt to relapse into new tumults as appeared by the ensuing mutiny of the very Citties and corporate Townes as also that if it were true then he had no power from the succeding King to receiue Tyrone to mercy yea that in case it should prooue false then such treatie with the Arch-traytor in any other then Queene Elizabeths name might proue very dangerous to him For these reasons he resolued speedily to strike vp the former treatie with Tyrone and so presently dispatched a horseman to Sir William Godolphin to aduertise him thereof and to require him to hasten Tyrones comming by remembrance to him that his former delayes in Treaties had much incensed the Queene and by threatning him that if he made the least delay of his submission his power to doe him good might be easily restrained and then he should expect nothing from him but a sharpe prosecution to his vtter ruine Sir William hauing receiued these his Lordships and Sir Garrets foresaid letters thought it no time to stand nicely vpon termes of equality which might argue his distrust of Tyrone and awaken in him his old iealousies of our meaning to him and therefore leauing order that his troope should follow him did ride from Charlemont and met Tyrone on the nine and twentieth of March at nine of the clocke in the morning at Toker a place lying fiue miles beyond Dungannon where shewing him the Lord Deputies protection he most humbly and thankfully accepted thereof and so committed himselfe to the Commissioners to ride in their company to the Lord Deputy By the way they deliuered his Protection to his owne hands and likewise the letters which he was to send to the seuerall Gouernours by his owne messengers On the thirtieth of March 1603. they came al together to Mellifant in the afternoon where Tyrone being admitted to the Lord Deputies chamber kneeled at the doore humbly on his knees for a long space making his penitent submission to her Maiesty and after being required to come neerer to the Lord Deputie performed the same ceremony in all humblenesse the space of one houre or there abouts The next day hee also made a most humble submission in writing signed with his owne hand in manner and forme following as appeares vpon record I Hugh Oneale by the Queene of England France and Ireland her most gracious fauour created Earle of Tyrone doe with all true and humble penitency prostrate my selfe at her royall feet and absolutely submit my selfe vnto her mercy most sorrowfully imploring her gracious commiseration and appealing onely to her Princely clemency without presuming to iustifie my vnloyall proceedings against her sacred Maiesty Onely most sorrowfully and carnestly desiring that it may please her Maiesty rather in some measure to mittigate her iust indignation against me in that I doe religiously vow that the first motiues of my vnnaturall rebellion were neither practise malice nor ambition but that I was induced first by feare of my life which I conceiued was sought by my Enemies practise to stand vpon my gard and after most vnhappily led to make good that fault with more hainous offences the which in themselues I doe acknowledge deserue no forgiuenesse and that it is impossible for me in respect of their greatnesse in any proportion euen with my life to make satisfaction I doe most humbly desire her Maiesty to pardon them that as I haue beene already a sufficient argument of her Royall power hauing little left but my life to preserue it selfe so that it may now please her Maiesty to make me an example of her Princely clemency the chiefest ornament of her high dignity And that I may be the better able hereafter with the vttermost seruice of my life to redeeme the foulenes of my faults I doe most humbly sue vnto her Maiesty that shee will vouchsafe to restore me to my former dignity and liuing in which estate of a subiect I doe religiously vow to continue for euer hereafter loyall in all
pauements with their wheeles and the waggons being often changed in each dayes iourney this carriage to his Inne and from it so often must needes be a great burthen to his shoulders or charge to his purse The Waggoners being commonly drunken driue their Mares like mad men yet without danger of turning ouer their Waggons because the wayes are most plaine faire and sandy From Delph to Hage being two houres iourney with consorts I paied two stiuers for my Waggon and alone I paide seuen The way lies betweene ditches and is plaine and safe the Countrey people continually repairing it For otherwise the wayes in this low watry soyle could not be so drie and sandy as they are And because they cast vp sand vpon the passengers some curious men vse spectacles of glasse to preserue their eyes On all sides from City to City they haue ditches cut vpon which boates passe almost euery hower to and fro and giue passage at a low rate and the wind being faire they beare sayles otherwise they are drawne by Horses or by Marriners with a rope fastened vpon a pole set vp in the hinder part of the boate and the Marriners being commonly drunke through their too much hast and negligence it often happens that the ropes wherewith the boates are drawne catch hold on some posts and stakes by the way or chance to be intangled with the horses or roapes of other boates meeting them and so ouerturne them in the water with no small danger to the passengers The rates of passages by boate are diuers but euer small My selfe haue passed three miles for foure stiuers seuen miles for sixe stiuers and foureteene miles as from Amsterdam to Harlingen for eight stiuers The Marriners vse not to deceiue strangers in the rates neither can they easily doe it they being vulgarly knowne to euery child Euery day and at a set hower the Boates must goe away with those passengers they haue and may not stay for more and if at any time some few passengers or any one alone will pay the whole fraight of the Boate then they must without any delay transport those passengers or that one man This I will illustrate with one example A Barke must euerie day at a set hower set sayles from Harlingen a Citie in Freesland to Amsterdam a Citie in Holland and like are the customes of other Cities for mutuall trafficke neither may the couetous Marriners stay one minute after the hower and after it is neuer so little loosed from the strand it may not come backe to the shoare though neuer so many passengers should come suddenly and desire to bee receiued into it but these new passengers must hire another barke the price whereof is vulgarly knowne and that being offered by them or any one passenger the Marriners may 〈◊〉 to goe presently away Sometimes it happens that one Barke receiues so many passengers as the owner gets tenne Flemmish guldens for one fraight for if great number of passengers comes before the appointed hower that turnes to the Marriners profit But if one man alone or few men doe after the appointed hower offer to giue fiue guldens for the said passage they may not reruse presently to transport him or them The like custome is kept in other Cities for small boates and short passages namely that tenne conforts which are most readthe found shall pay each man three stiuers for his passage and if one or two being in haste will pay these thirty stiuers the boate without delay must carry him or them I cannot denie but these rates of hiring barkes or boates are subiect to change For in the passage from Harlingen to Amsterdam my selfe paid eight stiuers for my transporting which of old was but fiue stiuers a man As likewise for small boats we then paid three stiuers for a passage which of old was but one blanck But in the meane time these increases are not raised by the Marriners couetousnesse after their pleasure but by the publike authority of the Magistrate in lawfull and decent manner In the publike Innes a passenger paies some ten or fourteene stiuers 〈◊〉 but if he drinke wine that will cost as much more by reason of the great impositions vpon the Wines Besides that the Flemmings his consorts drinking beere stiffely especially if they light vpon English beere and drinke being put into the common reckoning of the company a stranger shall pay for their intemperancy The Danes haue such and the same waggons as the Flemmings which a man alone or few or more consorts may hire some foure miles being a short dayes iourney for 20 or 24 Lubeck shillings or about that rate Trauellers vse not to passe on horsebacke The Coachmen pay for their owne diet and their horses meate My selfe commonly paid each meale for my diet sixe Lubeck shillings reckoning three for beere apart and in some places ioyntly for both foure Lubeck that is eight Danish shillings Lastly I was carried in a boate foure miles by the Sea-coast for eight Lubeck shillings Poland for the most part or almost all is a plaine Countrie fit for the passing of coches which may be hired in Cities and a 〈◊〉 to those of Germany From Dantzke to Crakaw being ten daies iourney a coach may be hired for some 44 German guldens My selfe paid there for my part six guldens leauing the Coach after foure daies iourney because the horses were tired And for my diet two of those dayes vpon our guides reckoning my part came to two guldens but I am sure he deceiued vs. In one Citie by the way fiue of vs paid 2 dollers for one supper but my selfe after passing alone commonly dined in villages for 2 or 3 grosh and supped for 4 or 6 grosh They vse to carry a bed in the Coach and to sit vpon it in the day time for otherwise no beds are to be found but onely in great Cities which are very rare And they who will haue wine must also carry it with them for it is not to be had but onelie in great Cities Our Horses as I said being tired we left our Coach and by the Kings letter or warrant granted to one of our company we tooke vp horses and that for small prices namely one or two Grosh for a Polish or Dutch mile But the Polonians for the most part ride on horsebacke and the most conuenient and frugall course for passengers is to buy horses and sell them in Italy after their iourney neither shall they want horse-men to beare them company from City to City but he that is a horse-man cannot carrie his bed so must haue patience to rest vpon a bench til he shall find beds vpon the confines of Germany In the meane time his long horsmans coat which the Polonians Hungarians generally vse may with straw make his logding more cōuenient especially if it be lined with Woolues skinnes or like furres for the Winter time Neither shall he neede to feare any cold since the
Polonians vse hot stoues as the Germans haue and do also lodge all the family therein at night vpon straw and benches Horsemeate will cost some two or three grosh at noone and some foure or fiue grosh at night In Italy they vse few or no Coaches but onely in the State of Venice where from Treuiso to Padoua being twelue miles my selfe and my companions hired a Coach for eighteene Venetian lyres For other parts of Italy Traueliers for iourneys vse horses or mares in Lumbardy and otherwhere vpon hilly Countries and in the Plaine towards Naples they vse Mules and Asses much more commonly then Horses and the same beasts in like sort are vsed for all carriages Post-horses are to be hired in euery City and for one they commonly pay a siluer crowne that is seuen Venetian lyres for ten miles But I do not remember to haue seene any vse Post-horses as we do for galloping the Italians vsing to ride a slow pace And if any passenger thinke this rate deare he may take a more frugall course by enquiting after Post-horses of returne so called because they must returne home empty if they find no passengers by chance to vse them for these horses may bee had at a lower rate and if the passenger find them not readily at euery stage it will not be vnpleasant for him to walke on foote to the next stage where or by the way he shall commonly find such horses so as the want of consorts or heauy baggage make not his walking on foote vnpleasant for otherwise the fields and waies are most pleasant and the Cities Townes or dwellings most frequent But if he ride vpon a post-horse of returne he must take heede that he light from his horse at the Towne-gate for if he ride to the Inne the Post-master will force him to take a new Post-horse or else to goe away on foote whereas if he come to the Inne either on foote or vpon an hackny it is free for the horse-letters to furnish him and his company with hackney horses These horse leuers are called Vettarini and let their horses at a lower rate especially if the passenger haue two or three consorts and they will send a seruant on foot to seede the horses by the way and to bring them backe except their iourney be short as of one or two dayes in which case they will let a horse to a passenger being alone with caution that hee shall meate him by the way and at the iourneys end leaue him at the Inne which they appoint without further cure of his meate or returne Yea if the passenger wou'd ride his horse beyond that Inne the Hoste or his seruants knowing the horse will stay him and take the horse into their keeping Also ordinary Carriers from Citie to Citie vse to let horses and leade passengers with them My selfe hired a horse of returne from Bologna to Rimini being thirty fiue miles for tenne poali from Sienna to Lucca being forty fiue miles a Vetturines horse for foureteene poali or giulij from Lucca to Pisa being renne miles for two giulii from Pisa to 〈◊〉 being fortie one miles for apiastro or siluer crowne and from Milan to Cremona being fifty two miles a carriers horse for fiue lyres besides horse-meate Hee that hath his owne horse or a Vetturines horse left to his keeping as I said for a short iourney shall pay for horse-meate after these rates At Lucca in the State of Florence hee shall pay each night some twelue creitzers for oates eight creitzers for the stable that is hay straw and stable roome and at Vicenza and in the State of Venice some eighteene soldi for Oates and twentie soldi for the stable The Italians ride vpon most hard saddles hauing commonly a lether cushian of their owne to fasten vpon the pummell of the saddle Touching the charge of diet by the way a passenger in the State of Venice shall haue his supper and bed for forty soldi and in the vpper parts of Italy for three giulij and he may dine conueniently for one giulio vpon reckoning or at most for a giulio and a halfe but if hee will eate at the ordinary he shall pay three Many agree with the Vetturine not onely for horses and horsemeate but also for their owne diet but for my part I would rather liue at my owne charge and discretion then at theirs excepting the iourney from Rome to Naples in which for the great hast especially at dinner times for the familiarity which the Vetturines haue with the Hosts all men vse to agree with them aswel for diet as for horses and horse meat which if they should not doe they should spend more hardly be vsed so wel In Italy the passenger must be content with a hard flock bed for by reason of the heate of the Country they vse no feather beds He shall haue cleane sheetes at least if he be curious to demand them but because the beds are suspected for filthinesse of the Venerian disease passengers vse to weare lumen breeches of their owne It is good to lodge in the best Innes especially in Italy for in them hee shall be best vsed and shall be most safe from dangers For other particulars let the passenger reade the more full handling of them in my daily iournies through Italy in the first Part and the following Chapter of the Italian diet in this third Part. In the Turkish Empire they trauell not as we doe sometimes one man alone sometimes two three or more consorts at pleasure but as theeues there goe in troopes to spoile so Merchants for their security ioyne together till they haue some two or three hundred Cammels loaded with goods and a conuenient number of men to attend them And this Company is called vulgarly a Carrauan to which passengers ioyne themselues for their better safety This Company to auoide the heate of the Sunne vseth to beginne their iourney in the euening and to continue the same till two howers after Sunne-rise resting all the day in Tents And euery man carries his owne meate or prouides it by the way Malem signifies one that leades Merchants goods and Muccaro signifies him that lookes to the beasts and to the loading of them and these Men let Cammels Horses and Mules to passengers for the whole iourney at reasonable rates and doe waite vpon the passengers to feede the bealts and to loade them as also to buy and dresse meate for the Men. My selfe and my Brother Henry in our iourney from Tripoli in Syria to Haleppo paied nine Pyastri for two Asses to ride vpon and for them meate and for some tributes vulgarly Cafars of twenty Meidines or thereabouts due by the way And in our iourney from Haleppo to Constantinople wee paide to our Muccaro bearing the charge of the beasts meate seuenty and one Pyastri for a Horse and a Mule to ride vpon and for a Cammell to carry our prouisions of Bisket Wine
Westerly beginning at the first Meridian The places situated vnder the AEquator are said to haue no latitude and the places vnder the first Meridian no longitude The Zones compassing the earth like girdles according to the Longitude thereof deuide it by the AEquator and foure paralells into fiue parts whereof two are temperate and three intemperate One of the intemperate being the middle lies vnder the AEquator betweene the two Paralells called Tropici and this is called the Torride or burnt Zone because it being vnder the Ecliptick line of the Sunnes yeerely course is continually burnt with the beames thereof This Zone in the Superficies or vpper part of the earth containes the greater part of Affrick towards the South yea almost all Affrick excepting Egypt and Mauritania towards the Northerne Pole and the furthest parts of Afirick towards the Southerne Pole and it containes the chiefe Ilands of the East Indies Next to this middle torride Zone towards the North lies one of the temperate Zones seated betweene the two Paralells called the Tropick of Cancer and the Artick circle and it containes the greatest part of America the Northerne part of Affrick and almost al Europe and Asia The other temperate Zone lies by the middle torride Zone on the other side of the AEquator towards the South seated betweene the two Paralells called the Tropick of Capricorn and the Antartick circle and containes the part of America called Peru and the extreme Southerne parts of Affrick and great part of the Southerne World as yet vndiscouered Next to these temperate Zones lye the other two Zones called intemperate for cold as the first are for heate and one of them lies vnder the Northerne Pole of the world containing Noruegia and the part of Tartaria lying within the Artick circle the other lies vnder the Southerne Pole which part of the World is not yet discouered Clymes are tracts compassing the earth circularly from the West to the East and they are much more narrow then the Zones and not of equal Latitude among themthemselues but as Zones are the greater the neerer they are to the AEquator and the narrower the more they are distant from the AEquator towards either of the Poles so are the Clymes The Latitude of each Clyme is so great as from the beginning to the end of it the greatest Solstitial day may increase halfe an hower And because this variation of the day in parts most remote from the AEquator happens in shorter distances of the earth therefore the Clymes also most remote from the AEquator are made more and more narrow In our age wherein great parts of the World are discouered which were of old vnknowne this distribution of the earth from the Artick circle to the Antartick may be made into 23 clymes the Equinoctial clyme not being numbred But this property must euer bee obserued that the Solsitiall day of the following clime is euer half an hour longer then the solstitial day of the foregoing clime The first clime aswell from the Equator towards the North as from it towards the South is placed where the greatest day containes 12 houres a halfe that is next to the AEquator on either side The second where the greatest day containes 13 houres The third where it containes 13 houres an halfe The fourth where it containes 14 houres And so forward till you haue numbred the 23 clime making the day of 23 houres a halfe so come to one of the said circles Arctick towards the North or Antartick towards the South where in the Solstitial day of the one half of the yeere the Sun shines 24 houres aboue the Horizon the night is but a moment on the contrary in the solstitial day of the other halfe of the yeere the Sun is hidden 24 hours vnder the horizon the day is but a moment but beyond these circles this distribution of the earth into climes ceaseth because after the day is no more increased by halfe houres but the oblique horizon on both sides hideth certaine portions of the Ecliptick about the solstitial points which are perpetual appearings or hidings when the Sun passeth them it makes continual day for some weekes yea for some moneths or the like continuall night til you come to one of the Poles vnder which there is continual day for the six summer moneths and likewise continual night for the sixe winter moneths The Earth is diuided into fiue parts Asia Africk Europe America and Terra Australis or Southland not yet discouered Now I must speake of the parts of Europe Asia seated in the temperate Zone towards the North and vnder the Northern latitude Easterly longitude which must alwaies be obserued for the vnderstanding of the descriptions now following The oriental longitude namely from the first meridian towards the East of Germany with Sweitzerland Boemerland from the 23 degree to the 46 degree extends it selfe 23 degrees The Northern latitude namely from the Equinoctial to the North of the same Countries from the paralell of 45 degrees a halfe to the paralel of 55 degrees a halfe extends it selfe 10 degrees Germany is diuided into the vpper the lower The vpper lying vpon the Alpes neere the Riuer Danow is subdiuided into 11 Prouinces Austria Styria Carinthia Athesis Rhetia Vindelicia Bauaria Sucuia Heluetia or Sweitzerland Alsatia the Tract vpon the Riuer Rhein to Metz. 1 Austria was of old called the vpper Pannonia of the bridges or of the Peones comming out of Greece to inhabit it and also Auaria now it is vulgarly called Oestreich that is the Easterly Kingdome Danow the great riuer of Europe which going on the course is called Isther runs through it diuides it into Austria on this side on the far side of Danow It hath many ancient famous Cities whereof the chiefe is Uienna vulgarly Wien built vpon the banke of Danow famous not so much for the Vniuersity the trafficke of the place as for that it is most strongly fortified to keepe out the Turkes it is subiect to the Emperour as he is Arch-duke of Austria 2 Styria of old called Valesia Iapidia is a small region in the midst of the Alpes was at first onely a Marquisate whereupon it is vulgarly called Stoirmark but after by the Emperour Fredericke Barbarossa was raised to a Dukedome was at this time subiect to a Prince of the House of Austria by diuision of inheritance The Cities thereof are Volenburg Hal and Griets the chiefe City It hath two Riuers Mour and Draw 3 The Inhabitants of Carinthia are called Carni vulgarly Kerntheine The Easterly and Southerly part thereof is called Carniola vulgarly Krein and the inhabitants thereof were of old called Iapides Here are the spring heads of the Riuers Drauus and Sauus in the middest of the Alpes The Cities Philac and Clagefort are of small moment 4. The Athesine Prouince lies
among Christians and if he doe yet the sheetes are made of cotten intollerable for heate For in Turkey generally they lie vpon Tapestry Carpets and sometimes in Cities vpon a mattresse with a quilt to couer them and by the high way they lye vpon straw hey or grasse And in all places neere Palestine they either by night lie vpon the house tops on a plastered floare or in yards vpon the earth and in open Ayre hauing the spangled Heauens for their Canopy And not onely passengers but all Turkes daily weare linnen breeches so as in these Prouinces not subiect to cold a man may better endure this poore kind of lodging But the Turkish passengers in stead of Innes haue certsine Hospitals built of stone with Cloysters after the manner of Monasteries where by charitable legacy of Almes all passengers may haue meate for certaine meales or dayes especially the Pilgrims towards Mecha for whose sake they were especially founded And these houses are vulgarly called Kawne or as others pronounce Cain and the couered Cloysters of them built after their manner but one roofe high are common as well to Turkes as any other passengers to lodge in openly and like good fellowes altogether vpon such mattresses as they carry or vpon the bare ground if straw be not to be had For Christian passengers carry such mattresses and necessary victuals which failing they supply them in Cities and euery day in Villages may buy fresh meates but they must dresse their owne meate Neither is the Art of Cookery greater in Turkey then with vs in Wales for toasting of Cheese in Wales and seething of Rice in Turkey will enable a man freely to professe the Art of Cookery No stranger vseth to trauell without a Ianizary or some other to guide him who knowes the places where most commodious lodging is to be had but passengers by the way vse not to goe into Cities but onely to buy fresh meates which done they returne to the Tents of their Carrauan which vse to be pitched in some field adioyning In hot climes neere the Sunne as I haue said in the first Part writing my iourney through Turkey the Turkes there dwelling vse to beginne their iourneys towards the euening and to end them two or three houres after the Sunne rising resting in their Tents all the heat of the day Christian passengers shall doe well to goe to the Italians Friers at Ierusalem and to Merchants their Countreymen or at least to Christians in Citties of traffick and to the Ambassadors or Merchants of their owne Country at Constantinople who being themselues strangers and not ignorant of the euils incident to strangers will no doubt in curtesie direct them to get conuenient lodgings and other necessaries CHAP. II. Of France touching the particular subiects of the first Chapter THE Longitude of France extends thirteene degrees from the Meridian of sixteene degrees to that of twenty nine degrees and the Latitude extends eight degrees from the Paralell of forty two degrees to that of fifty degrees France of old was deuided into Cisalpina and Transalpina In the description of Italy I haue formerly spoken of Cisalpina which was also called Togata of Gownes the Inhabitants wore and Tonsa because they had short haire 1 Transalpina was subdeuided into Comata and Narbonersis Comata so called of their long haire was againe subdeuided into Belgica of which I haue spoken formerly in the description of Netherland into Aquitanica and Celtica or Lugdunensis Aquitanica the second Part of Comata was of old called Aremorica lying vpon the Mountaines Pyrenei and they differ in Language from the French being more like to tie Spaniards next to the Pyreni dwelt the Ansi or Ansitani called vulgarly Guascons comming from Spaine Their chief City is Tolouse where is a famous Vniuersity the Parliament of that Prouince Another City called Bordeaux hath also an Vniuersity but is more famous by the generall concourse of Merchants trading for French Wines Beyond the Riuer Garumna running through the midst of Aquitania dwell the Santones an ancient people whose Countrey is called Santoigne Next lie the Pictones or Pictaui vpon the Riuer Loyer whose Countrey is called Posctou abounding with Fish Fowle and all Game for Hunting and Hawking It hath three chiefe Cities all seates of Bishops Poictiers Lusson and Maillezais The necke of Land adioyning is called Aulone and the Ilands Noir de Chauet De Dieu and Nosire Dame De Bouin c. yeeld great quantity of Salt to be transported The Countrey of the Bituriger is called Berry and the chiefe City Burges of old called Auaricum being an Vniuersity and the Citizens at sixe Faires in the yeere sell great quantity of woollen cloath for the Countrey hath rich pastures feeding many flockes of sheepe of whose wooll this cloath is made besides that it aboundeth also with Wine Corne and all kinds of cattell The City is within Land and is called in Lattin Biturigum of two Towers Next the same lies the Dukedome Burbonois and other small territories Celtica or Lugdunensis another part of Comata containes the part of Transalpina that lies betweene the Riuers Loyer and Seyne beyond which last Riuer France of old extended and included good part of Netherland First towards the West lies the Dukedome Bretaigne which hath three Languages in it selfe all differing from the French The first is of the people called Bretons Bretonnant comming from the English or Cornish Brittons the first Inhabitants and the chiefe Cities are Saint Paul and Treguiers The second people are called Bretons Galot being of Language neere the French and the chiefe Cities are Rhenes where is the Parliament of the whole Dukedome and Dol and Saint Malo The third is mixt of the two former and the City thereof called Nantes is the Dukes seate and chiefe City of the Dukedome From the Sea Coast thereof great quantity of salt made by the heate of the Sunne is transported and there by mynes of Iron and Lead Towards the East lies Normandy so called of Men of the North namely the Cimbri there inhabiting and the chiefe City is Roane Within Land lies Turroyne vpon the Loyer and the chiefe City is Orleance Next lies the little Countrey of France like an Iland betweene two Riuers so called of the Franckes a people of Germany conquering and giuing that name to the whole Kingdome The chiefe City and seate of the Kings is Paris Picardy lies towards the North and the chiefe City is Amiens Vpon France within Land towards the East lies the Prouince Champaigne Next to it lies the Dukedome of Lorrayne the Dukes whereof beare their Armes an Arme armed breaking out of Cloudes and holding a naked Sword to signifie that the Dukes haue supreme power from God alone And the chiefe Cities of the Dukedome are Nancy the seate of the Dukes and Toul and Neufchastell The next Countrey of old esteemed part of Lorrayne was inhabited by the Lingones and by the Mediomatrices and
place where they fable that Coryneus wrastled with Gogmagog and in this Towne was borne Sir Francis Drake Knight the cheefe glory of our Age for Nauigation who for two yeeres space did with continual victories as it were besiege the Gulfe of Mexico and in the yeere 15-- entring the straight of Magellan compassed the World in two yeeres and tenne moneths with many changes and hazards of Fortune The Towne Dortmouth is much frequented with Merchants and strong shippes for the commodity of the Hauen fortified with two Castles The City Excester called Isen by Ptolomy and of olde called Monketon of the Monkes is the cheefe City of the County and the seate of the Bishop 3 Dorsetshire was of old inhabited by the Durotriges The Towne Weymouth hath a Castle built by Henry the eighth to fortifie the Hauen Dorchester is the cheefe towne of the County but neither great nor faire 4 Sommersetshire was of old inhabited by the Netherlanders and is a large and rich County happy in the fruitfull soyle rich Pastures multitude of Inhabitants and commodity of Hauens The chiefe Towne Bridgewater hath the name of the Bridge and the water In the Iland Auallon so called in the Britans tongue of the Apples which the Latins cals Glasconia flourished the Monastery Glastenbury of great antiquity deriued from Ioseph of Arimathta Dunstan casting out the ancient Monkes brought thither the Benedictines of a later institution and himselfe was the first Abbot ouer a great multitude of Monkes indowed with Kingly reuenewes In the Church yard of this Monastery they say that the great worthy of the Britans Prince Arthur hath his Sepulcher The Episcopall little City called Wells of the Wells or Fountaines hath a stately Bishops Pallace The City Bathe is famous for the medicinall Baths whereof three Fountaines spring in the very City which are wholsome for bodies nummed with ill humours but are shut vp certaine howers of the day that no man should enter them till by their sluces they be purged of all filth The Bishop of Welles buying this City of Henry the first remoued his Episcopall seate thither yet still keeping the old name of Bishop of Welles and there built a new Cathedrall Church The City Bristowe is compassed with a double wall and hath so faire buildings as well publike as priuate houses as next to London and Yorke it is preferred to all other Cities of England 5 Wilshire was also inhabited by the Belgae or Netherlanders and lies all within land rich in all parts with pastures and corne Malmesbury is a faire Towne famous for the woollen clothes The Towne Wilton of old the cheefe of this County is now a little Village beautified with the stately Pallace of the Earles of Penbroke The City of Salisbury is made pleasant with waters running through the streetes and is beautified with a stately Cathedrall Church and the Colledge of the Deane and Prebends hauing rich Inhabitants in so pleasant a seate yet no way more famous then by hauing Iohn Iewell a late worthy Bishop borne there Some sixe miles from Salisbury is a place in the fields where huge stones are erected whereof some are eight and twenty foote high and seuen broade standing in three rowes after the forme of a crowne vppon which other stones are so laied acrosse as it seemes a worke hanging in the Ayre whereupon it is called Stoneheng vulgarly and is reputed among Miracles as placed there by Merlin there being scarce any stone for ordinary building in the Territory adioyning 6 Hamshire of old was inhabited within Land by the Belgae or Netherlanders and vppon the Sea coast by the Regni William the Norman Conquerour made here a Forrest for Deare destroying Towns and holy buildings for some thirty miles compasse which ground now well inhabited yet seruing for the same vse we call New-Forest Southampton a faire little City lies vpon the Sea Wintchester of old called Venta of the Belgae was a famous City in the time of the Romans and in these daies it is well inhabited watered with a pleasant Brooke and pleasantly seated and hath an olde Castle wherein there hanges against the wall a Table of a round forme vulgarly called Prince Arthurs round Table but Gamden thinkes it to haue been made long after his time It hath a Cathedrall Church and large Bishops Pallace and a famous Colledge founded for training vp young Schollers in learning whence many learned men haue been first sent to the Vniuersity and so into the Church and Commonwealth In the Towne or Port of Portsmouth lies a Garrison of souldiers to defend those parts from the incursions of the French by Sea 7 Barkshire was of old inhabited by the Atrebatij Newbery a famous Towne inriched by wollen clothes had his beginning of the ancient Towne Spina Windsore is famous by the Kings Castle neither can a Kings seate bee in a more pleasant situation which draweth the Kings often to retire thither and Edward the third kept at one time Iohn King of France and Dauid King of Scotland captiues in this Castle The same Edward the third built here a stately Church and dedicated it to the blessed Virgin Mary and to S. George the Capadocian and first instituted the order of Knights called of the Garter as an happy omen of victory in warre happily succeeding who weare vnder the left knee a watchet Garter buckled hauing this mot in the French tongue grauen in letters of gold Hony soit qui mal'y pense and the ceremonies of this order hee instituted to be kept in this Church 8 The County of Surry was of old inhabited by the Regni Otelands is beautified with the Kings very faire and pleasant house as Richmond is with the Kings stately Pallace 9 The County of Sussex of old inhabited by the Regni hath the faire City Chichesler and the Hauen Rhie knowne by being the most frequented passage into France 10 The County of Kent is rich in medows Pastures pleasant Groues and wonderfully aboundeth with Apples and Cherries It hath most frequent Townes and safe Harbours for ships and some vaines of Iron William the Norman Conquerour after the manner of the Romans instituted a Warden of the fiue Ports Hastings Douer Hith Rumney and Sandwiche to which Winchelsey and Rie the chiefe Hauens and other Townes are ioyned as members which haue great priuiledges because they are tied to serue in the warres and the Warden of them is alwaies one of the great Lords who within his iurisdiction hath in most things the authority of Admirall and other rights Detford Towne is well knowne where the Kings ships are built and repaired and there is a notable Armory or storehouse for the Kings Nauy Not farre from thence vpon the shore lie the broken ribs of the ship in which Sir Francis Drake sailed round about the World reserued for a monument of that great action Greenewich is beautified with the Kings Pallace Eltham another house of the Kings is not farre distant The Towne
from so disunited mindes as they haue He addes that the free Cities of the Empire yeeld a small yeerely tribute to the Emperour of fifteene thousand Guldens It is well nowne that those Cities of old custome maintained twenty thousand foote and foure thousand Horses for the Emperours Army when he went to be crowned at Rome but this custome by long discontinuance is vanished since the Emperours for many ages haue forborne this expedition The matter of greatest moment is the contribution which for the doubtfull affaires of the Empire hath been accustomed to be granted by the three Estates in Parliament And these such as they are yet are more easily or hardly obtained of that free Nation as the Emperour hath more or lesse reputation with them But that it may appeare that the Empire wants not treasure the sinew of war let vs gather by one particular example what may generally be iudged of this subsidie In the time of the Emperour Maximilian the first the following subsidie was granted in a Dyet or Parlament at Worms by consent of the Estates for the vse of the Common-wealth and especially for the warre against the Turkes which at that time much lesse pressed Germany then it doth in these our daies First it was decreed that for foure yeeres next following each person of any sex or quality howsoeuer possessing through long and broad Germany or being worth by all meanes 500 gold Guldens should yerely pay half a gold Gulden to this purpose and each one of lesse value should pay a quarter of a gold Gulden and all Iewes as well men as women and children should pay yearely by the Pole one gold gulden That Princes Barons for decency yet of their free will should contribute much more And that this collection should be made not onely in the priuate Dominions of the Emperour but in the priuat Teritories of al Princes and the mony first deliuered to the Superintendents or chiefe Ministers of Gods word and by them be conueied to seuen Treasurers residing at Franckfort the first appointed by the Emperour the second by the Electors the third by other Princes the fourth by the Prelates the fifth by the Earles and Barons the sixth by the Knights the seuenth by the free Cities all which were to take their oathes for the faithfull execution of this office After it was againe decreed in the Diet held at Nurnberg that for the Turkish warre each 40 inhabitants reckoning the husband wife and children for one person should maintaine one Footeman That men and maid seruants should giue the sixth part of their yeerely wages and each one hauing no wages should pay a shilling of Germany That spirituall persons men and women that is Nunnes as well as others should for each forty Guldens value pay one gold Gulden and in like sort the spirituall Orders of Knights and namely those of Saint Iohn and all Monasteries and Almes-houses and whatsoeuer spirituall communities should giue the like contribution excepting the foure Orders of Mendicant Friers of which each fiue Monasteries were to maintaine one Footeman That men and maid-seruants of Spirituall persons should pay as much as those of the Layety That no Elector or Prince should maintaine lesse then fiue hundred Horses and each Earle should maintaine one Horseman That Knights should contribute according to their estates That the Iewes should pay by the Pole one gold Gulden yearely the rich paying for the poore That all Preachers should in the Pulpit exhort men willingly to giue these contributions giuing hope that they shall be diminished according to the booties gotten by victories And that Bishops should make collection of this money and deliuer it ouer to the Counsellers of the States Twenty Noble men were at that time chosen to haue care of the Commonwealth for matters of peace and warre who in difficult accidents were to call vnto them the sixe Electors the King of Bohemia in the Emperours person not reckoned and certaine other Princes And this must alwaies be vnderstood that these collections are made in Germany with great seuerity or strictnesse where he that dissembles his full wealth shall be forced to repaire all the domage the Commonwealth hath sustained thereby and shall bee also deepely fined when the fraude is made knowne which at least will appeare at the death of each priuate man by his last will and testament So as these subsidies must needs be of great moment But the Germans in our daies though ready to be deuoured by the Iawes of the Turkish Tyrant yet for the aboue-named causes very vnwillingly grant these contributions yea for the very Turkish warre The Germans for the said mutuall iealosies at this day in the greatest Peace at home yet liue as in the time of a Ciuill warre at least in common feare of surprising so as almost in all Cities they haue victuals laid vp in Storehouses to beare a yeeres siege and besides this publike prouision all housholders are commanded to make their priuate prouisions before hand of dried fishes corne and like things to eate of fewell to burne and of all necessaries to exercise their manuall trades The Cities haue Watchmen continually dwelling with their families on the top of high Steeples and Towers who by sound of Trumpet and by hanging out flags of diuers colours one for horsemen another for footemen continually giue warning what people approach to the Towne and in what number and besides these Watchmen are inioyned to sound their Trumpets at certaine howers of the day and night The very recreations of the Citizens are no other then shooting in Pieces and Crosebowes at markes in publike houses and thus they exercise themselues on Holidaies and at all idle times shooting for wagers both priuate and publike and for like rewards and prises So as they must needes bee thereby much better trained vp for warre Yet their footemen in warre doe not so much vse the Piece as the Pike and their Horsemen contrarie to the custome of other Nations are generally armed with two short Pistols not at all with Lances To conclude if any man in this time of peace shoote ofa piece within the wals of a Citie he shall no lesse then in a Towne of Garrison bee drawne by the Serieants before the Magistrate be sure to pay a mulct for his error Caesar reports that the Schwaben or people of Sueuta a great Prouince in Germany most part of vpper Germany hauing been so called of old were most warlike yet at the first hearing so feared the Romans as some thought to leaue their dwellings some made their last wils and all mourned and were sad He reports also that the halfe part of this people was imployed and nourished in Armes and the other halfe gaue themselues to Husbandry and that so by yeerely course they were one yeere Husbandmen another yeere Souldiers That none of them had any priuate fields nor dwelt in one place more then a yeere Lastly that freedome
haue their proper Iudges and Prisons so as by singular priuiledge they may not be tried in any other Court. And of old the Students of many Vniuersities had such priuiledges at this day not fully allowed as for murther they could not be punished further then with expulsion In Germany they haue a custome to giue a condemned man to a Virgin that desires him for her husband but according to the circumstances of the crime they grant or denie the same The office of the hangman is hereditary so as the sonne cannot refuse to succeede his father And of late the hangmans sonne of Hamburg being a Student and learned if not a graduate in the Vniuersity of Basil after his Fathers death was called home by the Senate of Hamburg and forced to doe his Fathers Office which is most ignominious but of great profit For the Germans hold it reprochfull to take off the skinne of any beast dying of it selfe so as the hangman doing that Office hath the skinnes for his labour The Germans are so supersticious as they thinke it a great reproch to touch the head or body of any put to death and thinke it most ridiculous for any man to salute the hangman or speake curteously to him and esteeme it a foule fault to eate or drinke with them or any of his Family Therefore the Hang-man and those of their Family who helpe them in their Office and succeed them hauing no children doe all weare a greene cap or some apparent marke by which they may be knowne or at least are tied to professe their quality when they come into any company left any man should offend in the former kindes And in publike Tauernes they haue Tables proper to them at which the basest body will not sit for any reward If they performe not their Office with dexterity they feare to be stoned by the people whose rage many times in that case they haue hardly escaped but being expert in doing their Office and hauing most sharpe Swords they commonly shew great dexterity in beheading many at one time and as it were in a moment They are commonly thirsty of blood so as the common report was that the hangman of Torge beheaded some of his companions with the Sword of Iustice because they would not pledge him when they were so fully drunken as they could no more whereupon the Sword was taken from him and is to this day kept in the Senate-house and onely deliuered to him at times of execution And that this rascall could not liue a weeke without drinking the blood of some Beast Besides at Breme not long before this time forty freebooting souldiers being beheaded at one time and the hangman hauing failed in giuing a foule wound to the first man executed and hauing with much difficulty appeased the peoples anger for the same hee presently drunke some of the mans blood that was dead and after hee had fetched a friske or two beheaded all the rest with strange dexterity as it were in a moment Of old among the Germans man-slaughter was punished by a mulct of cattle but no man escaped death for adultery At this day as after will appeare they punish man-killers more seuerely and adultery in most places is death and in no part of Germany free from seuere punishment Not onely the free Cities of the Empire haue the priuiledge of the Sword or capitall Iustice granted to them by Emperours but also many Cities subiect to inferiour Princes haue that priuiledge granted by some of their Lords and those Cities that haue it not yet vpon accidents of capitall offences obtaine it for the time by petitionary letters at Court so as the Prince permits Iustice the City giues sentence and sees execution done in the place where the crime was committed and presently after the fact neuer vsing as we doe to send Iudges from County to County at set times of the yeere For casuall man-slaughter or by chance medly as we terme it the Ciuill Law giues arbitrary punishment but the Law of Saxony punisheth it with a certaine and expresse mulct namely of one Wehrgeld and by the Ciuill Law not onely the principall but euery one that is accessary payes the whole mulct whereas by the Saxon Law if it be not knowne which of them killed him all iointly pay but one mulct Killing in sudden anger which we call manslaughter is punished with beheading through all Germany and Bohemia and that without delay for if the offender be apprehended he shall within few howers or next day be beheaded and put in the same Coffin with him that he killed and so both are buried with one funerall pompe and in the same graue and if vpon escape the man-slayer liue within the confines of the Empire whensoeuer his fact is knowne he shall be sent backe to the place where he committed it contrary to the custome of Italy where the Princes cherrish or at least giue safe aboade to the banished men of the next Countries Onely I must except the Lords and Gentlemen of Bohemia who vpon capitall offences are not presently iudged but are referred to the next Parliament In free Cities I haue obserued this forme of iudgement and execution The Iudge sits before the tribunall couered with blacke cloth and the Senators and Consuls sit vpon a bench aboue him and this place of Iudgement is commonly in a Porch or Terras vnder the Senate-house hauing one side all open towards the market place Then the Crier who carries the Sword before the Iudge cals out the accuser and the hangman comming forth accuseth the Malefactor which done the Cryer leades the Malefactor before the Tribunall where he is againe accused and confesseth the fact according to his confessions formerly made either in torture or before the Senators appointed to examine him Then the Iudge giues sentence and breakes his white rod. This done the Hangman repeates the sentence in the market place and presently the Malefactor is brought forth to be beheaded This man-slaughter in sudden sury is very frequent among the Germans by reason of their excessiue drinking In the City of Hamburg I obserued thirty seuen to be thus killed in the space of six weekes and onely three of the manslayers to be beheaded the rest escaping by flight And at Prage in Bohemia I obserued fifteene seruants of the Polonian Ambassadour whereof many were Gentlemen and thirteene Bohemians and Germans to be wounded to death in their cups within the space of three weekes all the manslayers escaping excepting one poore clowne who was executed It is true that Post-Horses are kept for the Sergeants to pursue Malefactors yet they slowly follow Gentlemen or those that haue good friends howsoeuer they would soon apprehend a stranger or a poore offender neither vse they earnestly to pursue any except they be hired by the friends of him that is killed or be otherwise terrified by the Magistrate For combates in Germany reade the precept of patience in the Chapter of Precepts