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A29631 Travels over England, Scotland and Wales giving a true and exact description of the chiefest cities, towns, and corporations, together with the antiquities of divers other places, with the most famous cathedrals and other eminent structures, of several remarkable caves and wells, with many other divertive passages never before published / by James Brome ... ; the design of the said travels being for the information of the two eldest sons, of that eminent merchant Mr. Van-Ackar. Brome, James, d. 1719. 1700 (1700) Wing B4861; ESTC R19908 191,954 310

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learnt so much abroad your self is a sufficient Encouragement to me to lay these Papers before you not doubting but that they will find a favourable Acceptance from so worthy a Friend whose experienced Candour and Ingenuity makes him so signally Eminent amongst all such who have themselves any true sparks of it What it was that moved me to publish this Itinerary as it will fully appear by the Preface I have prefixed so if I add further that the natural and congenite Propensity that is in Mankind to pay their Regards and shew what Service they can in their Stations and Capacities to their own Native Country in which as Lipsius elegantly expresseth it Infantia vagiit pueritia lusit juventus exercita educata est was the next motive I hope they will jointly be a sufficient Apology for this Topographical performance If I may flatter my self that it will any way gratifie your nice and curious Palate I shall not doubt but it will then find a powerful Advocate to plead for such Slips and Imperfections to which things of this nature may be unwillingly obnoxious however it will fully answer my design if it may be accepted of as a grateful Acknowledgment for the repeated Acts of Kindness conferred upon Your most Humble Servant James Brome AN ACCOUNT OF Mr. BROME'S Three Years TRAVELS OVER England Scotland and Wales A Narrative of his second Journey AFTER some few days respite and abode in London we began a new Progress and passing through Newington Totnam-High-Cross and Edmington Towns of good Note by reason of divers Gentlemen Merchants and rich Citizens that inhabit there we came to Waltham in Essex of which County I shall have occasion to speak more fully hereafter Waltham was of old a small Village Waltham in Essex or rather a desolate place beset with Woods and Briars which one Tovius in the declination of the Saxon Empire a great Courtier and a very wealthy and potent Man first Founded and planted there a Colony of some sixtysix Men afterwards he deceasing Athelstan his Son was deprived of his Patrimony and Edward the Confessor bestowed it upon Harold a great Favourite of his who having taken possession of it constituted in it a Church of Secular Canons and Dedicating it to the Honour of the Holy Cross made his Vows here in hopes of a Victory when he went to fight against William the Conqueror but Harold being slain and his Army quite routed by the Normans his Body was beg'd by his Mother of the Norman Duke and buried in this place After this the same Abby in the Reign of K. Henry II. was by the King's Command much enlarged and Regular Canons placed there to the number of Twenty-four and Dedicated to the Holy Cross and St. Lawrence saith the most Ingenious Mr. Tanner in his Notitia Monastica Richard I. still more augmented it and so did King Henry III. with Fairs and Markets appointing one Fair in the year to last for seven days together Hartfordshire We staid not long here and therefore were presently in Hartfordshire a County every where abounding with fertile Fields sat Pastures shady Groves and pleasant Rivolets and the first Town here of any Remark which presented it self to our View was Ware Ware which was built say Antiquaries by Edward the Senior King of the West Saxons about the year 914. 'T is watered by the River Ley and hath a great Market for all sorts of Grain it is populous and well inhabited by persons of very good Quality and lying in the great Road to London frequented constantly by persons of all degrees and although Hartford be the Eye of the County 't is now inferiour to this place since all Passages for Carriages being there obstructed during the Barons Wars were here freely opened to the great Advantage of this Town But the most remarkable thing in Ware is the New River or Aquaeduct convey'd above 20 Miles together in a continued Channel from this place to Islington from whence the Water thereof is dispersed in Pipes laid along in the Ground for that purpose into abundance of Streets Lanes Courts and Alleys of the City and Suburbs of London the happy Contrivance whereof all the Citizens have daily Experience and ought to Immortalize the Name of their Inventor Sir Hugh Middleton who bestow'd this most excellent Gift upon them and consummated this good Work so useful and beneficial to the City at his own proper Cost and Charges We lay here one Night in the company of some Friends Puckeridge and Barkway who came along hither with us for their Diversion but the next Morning taking a solemn farewell of them we set forward on our Journey and passing thro' Puckeridge and Barkway Towns of good Hospitality and Entertainment for Strangers we were quickly arriv'd within the Precincts of Cambridgeshire This is an extream pleasant open Country Cambridgeshire and a place of such Variety and Plenty that fruitful Geres with a smiling Countenance invites the Industrious Peasant to behold with Joy the Fruits of his Labour whilst she crowns his Industry with a plentiful Harvest and as if the Earth strove not to be behind hand with him in conferring other Largesses she in divers places makes some Annual Additions of another Crop by adorning the Fields with large Productions of Saffron by which great Profits do continually arise Besides here it is that the green Banks of murmuring Rivers and sunny Hills bedeck'd with diversity of Plants and Simples call forth the Students from their musing Cells and teach them Theory as well as Practice by diving into their Natures contemplating their Signatures and considering their Qualities and various Effects In a word here is nothing wanting for Profit or Delight and though the Northern parts of the County towards the Isle of Ely lying somewhat low are moist and Fenny yet that Defect is abundantly supply'd by the Plenty of Cattle Fish and Fowl bred in those Fenns and which makes the Air more healthy the gentle Gales which are frequently stirring drive away all thick Mists and Fogs which in some parts most annoy it and by this means it is become a fit Seat for the Muses to inhabit and we have no reason to complain of the Soil since our Wise Ancestors thought it good and convenient to plant a Colony of Learned Men here and place one of the Eyes of our Nation in this spot of Ground the famous and most glorious University of Cambridge which we could not in Honour pass by without a Visit Cambridge Cambridge was formerly call'd by the Britains Kaergrant and Grantbridge from a fair large Bridge made over the River Grant which is now call'd Cam from whence the Town it self receives its Name It is increased much by the Ruines of Grantchester sometimes a famous City situated a little above a Mile from this place and the Castle that is beyond the River the Ruines of which are still to be seen was built as
of the Door and to my best Remembrance there are one or two Places open upward in the Roof of the passage from whence it is the Opinion of Mr. Childrey in his Britannia Baconica when he has occasion to speak of this Place that the Chapel standing so in the middle much conduceth to the conveying of the Sound so entirely which is helped by the open places of the Roof before-mentioned for they help to draw in the Voice which else would not so well enter into that narrow Passage but reverberate back into that broad open place before the Whispering Entry and the Reason upon which he grounds his Opinion that the Chapel doth a great part of the Work is this Because saith he we see in Viols Lutes and other Musical Instruments there are Holes cut into the Belly of the Instrument just under the playing or striking place which we find by Experience do much augment the Noise of the Notes and make them more Audible But this being only a Conjecture I shall leave it to be further discuss'd by those who delight in such kind of Speculation and proceed to Lassington Astroites at Lassington a little Village near Gloucester where are found many Astroites or Star-stones being about the breadth of a silver Penny but the thickness of half a Crown flat and pointed like a Star or Mullet in Heraldry only the Points of them are not sharp but a little roundish and of a greyish Colour and on both sides curiously graved as it were by Art as if there were a little Mullet within the great one Being put into Vinegar they have a Motion like the Astroites in Germany which the Learned Cambden speaks of and are more fully described by Mr. Childrey in his Natural Rarities of Gloucestershire Having diverted our selves at Gloucester we steer'd our Course for Tewksbury Tewksbury a Market-Town of a great Trade for Cloth Mustard-Seed but more especially for Stockings of which the Townsmen every Saturday buy great Quantities from the Neighbouring Inhabitants 'T is situated among three pleasant Rivers Severn on the one side enricheth it and on the other Avon and another small Rivolet which comes from the East over each whereof stand Bridges which give Entrance into it By the Saxons it was call'd Thro●● ●uria from a Religious Man named Throcus who led here an Hermite's Life and hath been reputed famous for a Monastery founded by Odo and Dodo two Saxon Noble Men which was afterward much enlarged by the Earls of Gloucester who lived at Homes-Castle near to this place Homes Castle and were generally here Interred Nor is it of less Fame for the Memorable Battle fought here in 1471 between the House of York and Lancaster which bloody day decided for that time that great Controversie and left the Crown to the former In the Reign of King Henry III. there is a Story Recorded of a Jew that lived in this Town how that falling into a Jakes or Privy on the Jewish Sabbath or Saturday would by no means out of Reverence to that Day suffer any one to come and rescue him out of that Noisome place whereupon Richard then Earl of Gloucester having some Intelligence of his refractary Sullenness gave a strict charge that no one should dare to take him out on the Sunday for the Reverence of that Day and so the poor Circumcised Wretch perished in that loathsome Dungeon through his own Folly Our abode at this place was but short for we hasted into the Confines of Worcestershire Worcestershire which we found a very healthful and plentiful Country In one part it is of Note for its Cheese in most for its Perry which is a very pleasant Liquor made of the Juice of Pears growing here in abundance in the Hedges 't is likewise full of Salt-Pits and hath formerly been admired for abundance of Salt-Springs which have been very oft discovered in this County But that which makes it most Renown'd is the River Severn which Streams along the Country which as also the River Avon is well replenished with divers sorts of Fish but more particularly seem'd to be design'd on purpose by Nature as Stews and Ponds for the Preservation of Lampreys a Fish of great esteem in that County and sent far and near as a very great Present throughout divers parts of England they are called Lampreys from the Latin word Lampetra as if they had their Denomination from licking of Rocks they are like Eels slippery and blackish however on their Bellies they are of a blewish colour in the Spring they are most wholsom and sweet for in the Summer the inner Nerve which is to them instead of a Backbone waxeth too hard for Concoction Naturalists observe that these Fish receive and let in Water at seven Holes for that they have no Gills which are any way visible the Romans always thought this a very noble Dish and when any Person of Quality desired a sumptuous Feast he would be sure to be provided with these and the Italians at this day are very much delighted with them and consequently by their Cookery make them exceeding delicate to the Taste for they take a Lamprey and killing it in Malmsey close the Mouth with a Nutmeg and fill all the Holes with as many Cloves then they roll it up and put Filberd Nut-Kernels stamp'd crums of Bread Oyl Malmsey and Spices to it and so they boil it with great care and then turn it over a soft gentle Fire of Coals in a Frying-pan The first place we came to which was Remarkable in this County was Worcester it self Worcester where the River Severn which in other parts of the County runs along in a swift Current glides on here more softly with a gentle Stream admiring as it were this City This City was called by the Britains Kaerkorangon Rudborn as it passeth by which is famous both for its Antiquity and Beauty 'T is supposed that the Romans built it at that time when they first planted Cities on the Easternside of the Severn to hinder the Incursion of the Britaine who were on the other side as they did on the Southside of the Rhine to repress the Germans 'T is situated partly upon the Brow of a Hill rising with a gentle Ascent and hath a very fair Bridge over the River and is of great Repute for its Manufacture of Cloth by which the Inhabitants become Wealthy and Creditable The Houses are neat and well built the Streets clean and well paved the Churches in number many in Order and Beauty excellent especially the Cathedral in which are divers small Pillars all of pure Marble which stand in Rows and do uphold that vast Bulk and Fabrick somewhat strange to see the Body larger than the Supporters and that so small Props should be able to bear up so great a Weight This Church say some Historians was first built by Ethelred King of the Mercians tho' others by Bishop Sexwolph * Bosel
and so was the great Cardinal Woolsey in Henry VIII Reign In the late unhappy Confusions this Town had its share of Misfortunes and Calamities though it hath very well since recover'd its old Strength and Spirits being govern'd by a Mayor Recorder Twelve Aldermen and Two Chamberlains is furnished with all necessary Provisions on their Market Days the chief of which is Saturday strengthned with several Gates in one of which is kept their Magazine and adorn'd with divers Fabricks both Sacred and Civil the Cross in the High street is an exquisite piece of Workmanship and besides five other Churches near that which is Dedicated to St. Martyn stands a stately Edifice call'd the New Hospital built and endowed by several Pious Benefactours for the Use of poor impotent Lazars with a Chapel and Chaplain to read Divine Service and Minister to these helpless and indigent Creatures and to this joyns a small but compleat Library which was appointed for the use of the Ministers and Scholars which belong to this Town Hard by St. Mary's Church stands the Castle in which the Assizes are held for the County and by St. Nicholas there is a Wall which by the Ruines of it seems to be of great Antiquity having several hollow places in it of an Oval form of which the Inhabitants have odd and strange Conjectures as if here the Pagans were used to offer up their Children to their Blood-thirsty Idols or that here they made them pass through the Fire as the Israelites did theirs to Moloch but there being little probability of this I am rather inclined to believe that they might possibly have been some Receptacles for Roman Urns which might have been placed here as have been found in divers other parts of the Nation Not far from hence is Carleton Carleton of which we were told that most Persons that are born there whether it be by a peculiar property of the Soil or of the Water or else by some other secret Operation of Nature have an ill favoured untunable and harsh manner of Speech fetching their words with very much ado deep from out of the Throat with a certain kind of wharling the Letter R being very irksome and troublesome to them to pronounce Having rested at Leicester one Night and made a visit to some Friends and Relations who were seated in this place the next day we took our leaves both of them and that place and began a further Progress into the County and having rode four or five Miles further we came to another Market-Town call'd Mount-Sorrel Mount-Sorrel so called from a high Mount situated in the middle of the Town This place hath suffered much by dismal and raging Fires and I find in our English Chronicles that it was fortified with a Castle in the Reign of King Henry III. for the Officers and Soldiers that were here in Garrison made an incursion into the adjacent Country to pillage and pick up what Booty they could which the Castle of Nottingham having due notice of resolved to set upon them and if possible to put a period to such grievous Calamities the poor Neighbouring Peasants at that time groaned under whereupon they met and fought them took some of the chief Ringleaders dispersed the rest and returned back Victorious to their own Castle of which brave Exploit when News was once brought to King Henry he commanded the High Sheriff for the County of Nottingham to demolish the Castle of Mount-Sorrel which was never since Re-edified to this day Four Miles further is another Market-Town call'd Loughborough Loughborough some will have this to be the Village that Cuthwulphus took from the Britains about the year 571 for the Saxon Name Lygeanburh is of very near Affinity to it but the Opinion of my Learned Friend Mr. Gibson seems much more probable who in his Explication of this place at the end of the Saxon Chronicle tells us that it rather seems to point at Leighton in Bedfordshire for after Cuthwulphus had taken Lygeanburh he is reported likewise to have taken Egelesburgh i. e. Alisbury in Buckinghamshire and Bennington now Bensington in Oxfordshire and that the Road leads directly from Leighton to Alisbury and so to Bensington but 't is very improbable that Cuthwulphus should so order his Marches to pass from Loughborough to Alisbury and yet take no other place in all that long March of his betwixt those two places which are so far distant from one another This hath been formerly reputed the second Town in this County both for its fair Buildings and the pleasantness of its Situation being near unto the Forest of Charnwood and several shady Woods and delightful Groves that lie about it but of late Years this hath likewise undergone great Calamities from the sudden irruptions of Fire and hath been almost quite destroyed by this merciless Element And here again having been generously entertain'd by some particular Friends in these Parts after some returns of Thanks for their great civility and kindness we quickly arrived within the County of Nottingham And because according to the great Orator Nottinghamshire Non nobis solum nati sed Patriae every one is obliged to be serviceable to his Country proportionable to his Abilities and every one hath a natural Propension to love that Native Soil which first gave him a Being I cannot but in Duty pay some acknowledgments of the Benefits I have received herein both for my Nativity and first Rudiments of Education And indeed I may justly say without any partiality that it is a Province not much inferior to any in England being divided into two Parts the one whereof is called the Sand the other the Clay but both sufficiently productive of all things necessary for Mankind If we will take the pains to course over the Valleys we shall find the Earth groaning under the heavy burdens of bountiful Ceres and the Fields and Meadows in a careful contest which should appear most trim and glorious If we will range the Woods and Forests we shall hear such Melodies by the mutual reciprocation of Birds and Trees that one would think they had got the knack of speaking and Dodona's pratling Groves were become visible to us If we be so curious to dig into the Entrails of the Earth and take a view of her hidden Treasures we shall find several Minerals to gratifie our Curiosity several great Quarries of Stone divers Mines of Coal to provide us with Fuel against the blustring Storms of Winter If we be taken with the gentle Streams of Brooks and Rivers Trent will not be wanting to satisfie our Desires and will afford us as is reported thirty kinds of Fish to please our Palates As for the Towns and Villages they are well inhabited with industrious Tradesmen and laborious Peasants and so 't is populous the Edifices of Nobles and Gentlemen are thick and spacious and so 't is Honourable the Churches fair and Uniform and so 't is glorious and in fine