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A52618 An account of several late voyages & discoveries to the south and north towards the Streights of Magellan, the South Seas, the vast tracts of land beyond Hollandia Nova &c. : also towards Nova Zembla, Greenland or Spitsberg, Groynland or Engrondland, &c. / by Sir John Narborough, Captain Jasmen Tasman, Captain John Wood, and Frederick Marten of Hamburgh ; to which are annexed a large introduction and supplement, giving an account of other navigations to those regions of the globe, the whole illustrated with charts and figures. Narbrough, John, Sir, 1640-1688.; Tasman, Abel Janszoon, 1603?-1659.; Wood, John, Captain.; Martens, Friedrich, 1635-1699.; Robinson, Tancred, Sir, d. 1748. 1694 (1694) Wing N154; ESTC R18669 230,732 472

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and Oyster-shells on the Shore-side and growing in Veins on the Rocks but no Meat in them Wind at West to Night a fresh gale Monday April 18. Wind at South-west a stiff gale Cold Air and some Snow this Morning the Winter is come strong and stormy so that 't will be impossible to hold the Coast into the Streights for the Wind blows altogether from the West or West-southerly and in such Gusts as will force a Ship off the Coast This day I ordered my Purser to serve the Company Brandy-wine for their Allowance at a Quart per Week a Man I got a Boats lading of the Wood of the Country aboard for firing to Night it blew hard at South-west all the Company eat salt Seal and Penguins for their Allowance sweet and very good Meat and keeps well and long in Salt Friday April 22. Wind at South-west a stiff gale and cold Air. This Morning I went ashore on the North-west side with twenty Men to the Salt-pond which is rusted all over like a Pavement with very white and good Salt two Inches thick for two miles long in February here 's Salt enough to fill a thousand Ships we filled two Bags and laid up near two Tuns out of the Water for there was Water over the Salt which began to decay with the Rain and Weather beating on it at Night I returned aboard we brought as much Salt with us as filled a Punchion very good white Stone-salt whiter than French-Salt and of a very pleasant smell I saw some Guianacoes and Ostriches the Hills and Valleys dry Earth and Grass on them on the higher Hills lies Snow no People but many places where they had made fires and lain under a Bush for shelter no Mineral or Metal Tree or Fruit. Wednesday April 27. Close Weather and little Wind a cold Air it freezes hard the Ice bears a Man Thursday April 28. Wind at West and by South a fine gale cold frosty Weather We unrig'd the Ship and made all snug intending to Winter in this Harbour the Ice will not suffer us to pass the Streights the Winds are so stormy and generally out of the Western quarter the Nights so long and cold that the passage is impossible this Winter The Port I found safe to ride in and good refreshment to be had of Fowls as Ducks Peekes and Divers c. In the Spring I may be ready to sail to the Southward when we shall have the year before us and the Sun in the Southern Signs which will give long Days and short Nights and temperate Weather Wind at North-north-east this Evening and Rain it blew a great storm to Night the Boat sunk at the Ship 's stern and lost the Oars less Wind towards Night and veared to the West Friday May 6. Wind at West-north-west a fine gale I went a-shore on the North-west side with thirty Men and travelled seven or eight miles up the Hill saw no People the Land is great Grass-Downs in most places and on the tops of the Hills and in the Ground are very large Oyster-shells they lie in Veins in the Earth and in the firm Rocks and on the sides of Hills in the Country they are the biggest Oyster-shells that ever I saw some six some seven Inches broad yet not one Oyster to be found in the Harbour whence I conclude they were here when the Earth was formed no sign of Mine or Metal no Woods or Tree We found a good Spring of fresh Water up in the Hills it drains into salt Water-swashes We saw several Salt-water Ponds six miles in the Land made by the saltness of the Earth we saw Ostriches Guianacoes and a Fox I made a Fire on the top of the highest Hill but could see no answer I returned aboard with my Company very weary some of my Men fetched Salt to day fair Weather to Night Friday May 13. Indifferent Weather Wind at West-south-west a fine gale This day we fetched Salt a Gentleman of my Company Mr. John Wood walking on the Island of Jusice found three small pieces of Gold Wire in two Muscle-shells which Shells were made together by a green Gut-string the Gold was to the value of two shillings English and had been hammered the wire as big as a great Pin. Monday June 6. Cloudy cold Weather Wind at South-west a fresh gale This day I went a-shore with sixteen Men and travelled ten miles West into the Land the Hills there are covered with Snow 't is very cold we could not go any further for Snow and the Air is so cold that we could not endure to lie on the ground on the Hill that I was on we could see nothing but Hill beyond Hill no Woods nor Trees nor Bushes all grass Downs the Land is flat on the tops of the Hills fresh Water runs down in several places which is melted Snow and when the Water leaves running there 's no Snow I saw many Guianacoes and Ostriches no People or sign of any close by the Water-side we saw many places where they had lain on open Hills in the Snow and some places where they had killed and eat Guianacoes and Ostriches they make but small Fires with little sticks I do not find they roast their flesh at them for we saw some raw Flesh hanging to the Bones which they had gnawed with their Teeth their Fires are only to warm their Children's Fingers as we imagine I gathered some handfuls of Guianacoes Wool that lay here I am persuaded these People must needs see us travelling to and fro every day but won't come near or be seen by us they live like wild Beasts or rather worse for sometimes they must be in great want of Food here 's neither Fruit Root or Herb for it The Land is a dry gravelly Soil with Sand and in many places a Marle two foot below the Surface the Grass which is dry grows in knots not very long but thick in the Valleys the Earth is of a Petery or nitrous Nature Ostriches seen no sign of Metal or Mineral I and my Company have looked in most places where we travelled for it to Night we got down but very weary Tuesday June 7. clse dark Weather Wind at North-east and by East a fair gale a new Moon to day fine Weather to Night but cold the Stars near the Pole Antartick are very visible some of the small Stars in the Constellation of little Hydra are near the Pole Here are many good Stars near the Pole good for Observation of the first and second Magnitude the Star at the South-end of Ariadne the Star at Hydra's Head the Star in the Peacock's eye and the Stars in Tucan's bill and the Stars in Tucan's thigh and back the stars in Grus's head and wing and body but the brightest Stars are the Stars in the former foot of Centaurus and the Crosiers the other Stars are of the third fourth and fifth Magnitude The two Clouds are seen very plainly and a small black Cloud which
was several bags of Skins with red Earth and white Earth and Soot or paint in a Bag this is the Trade they paint themselves with they had Flint-stones and Arrow-heads in the Bundle I searched the Bundle all over to see grains of Gold but could not find any There were Bracelets of Shells and bits of Sticks and braided Thongs and Arrows and Muscle-shells and Armadillo-shells and a small point of a Nail in a stick for a Bodkin Their Skins were pieces of Seal-skins and pieces of Guianaco-skins sewed together with small Guts all very old and full of holes and smelt of grease There were pieces of Flints made fast with a green Gut in the split of a Stick which they hold fast to knock their Arrow-heads into shape There were also pieces of Sticks to get Fire with This was all that was in the Bundle it was made fast with Leather-thongs braided round like Whip-cord and the Dogs were coupled with such strings The Muscle-shells are their Knives I put all things up in the Bag and made it fast Their Dogs are much of the Race of Spanish dogs a good large mungrel Cur but very tame any Man might handle them they were grey in colour and painted red in spots they were very lean there were two grcat Staves of four foot long which was tough Cane in short joints I carried them a-shore next day Tuesday August 30. Foggy close Weather this morning Wind at North. We travelled away West into the Land ten or twenty miles farther The Land all dry with Grass and Bushes in some places like Thorns the Hills high and many and Snow on the tops no Woods nor Trees to be seen Fresh-water comes running out of the Hills in fine Rivulet no Fruit many sedgy Bushes grow on the Brink and brave green Grass and a green Herb of a pretty strong hot taste some Teal in the Water and Water-birds this is all I saw about the Rivulet Many large Ponds in the Country but salt Water in those Ponds we saw Fowls like Herons but all red in the Valleys we saw hundreds of Guianacoes in a company and twenty Ostriches some Heres and some Partridges greyer and bigger than ours some Snipes and small Birds several Penne-wrens we saw several Kites and small Hawks and Owls we caught two Armadilloes I saw two Foxes and a wild Dog and many brant-Geese the Land is in Hills and Valleys as far as we could see and bad travelling on foot the Soil is gravelly and dry sand of a Salt-petre nature the Grass in some places long and dry and in some places short and dry the Hills are rounding aloft like large Downs We red Earth in some places such as the Indians use we saw the Footsteps of people in many places in the Clay and places where they had been and had killed Guianacoes and made a fire there I gathered Guianacoes-Wooll and Ostriches Feathers were scattered about the place and Bones there lay the Skulls of three People no flesh on them they were very clean and no larger than the Skulls of European Men smooth and even Teeth close set one of those Skulls was broken Whether these people be Man-eaters or not I cannot tell I judge they have Wars one with another by reason here are so few People in this great Land and food enough to live on and the Land all clear and good Pasturage for Cattle and no Mountains in all the Land there are Plains and grassy Meadows here wants only Wood to build with it that were here it would be as good a Land as any part of America for the Counrry is very healthy This Afternoon it rained and was very thick and foggy so as we could not tell which way to go although we had a Compass with us for there is no going into the Land without one because a Man will mistake his way the Country is so open in great Plains and Downs We were very much wet and cold We got to Bushes and there made a Fire and dried our selves we stayed here all Night we neither heard nor saw any thing to Night Tuesday September 1. 1670. Close hasey Weather the Wind at North a small gale so as I could not Sail this day we tried for Fish but caught none the Water is so cold I was on the Land when I was at the farthest twenty five miles West-north-west from the Harbour-mouth and all things as I saw I have mentioned excepting some small Creatures like Efts which run in the Grass no manner of Snake or venomous Creature have I seen in this Country here are some Earth-worms and Caterpillers and other Buggs but few in number no wild Beast of prey or any other thing to annoy the Inhabitants but Cold and Hunger Here lies a large Country open to receive any Inhabitants from forein Parts and large enough to satisfie the Undertakers The Land would produce European Grain if planted here and breed Cattle September 16. I considering my Men being very weak thought it most fit to go for Port Desier and there to refresh the Men for I knowing there I could have what Penguins and Seals I would have which are good Provisions also I do intend to salt up a quantity of each to carry to Sea with me to lengthen out my Provisions This Forenoon I steered from St. Julian North-north-east and made what Sail I could to get to Pert Desier This Night it was a small gale and veered to the West-south-west I judge it best to make my easie Sail in the Night for fear of running up with the Eady Stone-Rocks before day-light Wednesday September 21. Fair Weather to day the Wind veerable round the Compass This Morning I had both the Boats leden with Seals and Penguins and Penguin-eggs ten Men may kill ten thousand Penguins in less than an hours time the Seals and Penguins are numberless a Man cannot pass on the Island for them This Evening I got on board and landed our lading ashore fair Weather to Night The Eggs are very good Nourishment and the Fat serves for Oil to the Lamps Thursday September 22. Fair Weather Wind at West This day I divided the Eggs amongst the Men we skinned the Seals and the Penguins and salted the Flesh in bulk on the Rock and covered it to keep the Wind from it good Weather and little Wind to Night Friday September 30. The Wind at North this Morning this forenoon it came to the South-east and blew hard and rained This day I went up the River about ten miles and Don Carolus with me and ten Men to see for People we lay out all Night on the South-side but saw no People this Night the people of the Country came to our little Well which is up in the Valley and stole an Iron Pot and three suits of Cloaths of the Mens that were laid there a drying with some other Linnen but did not meddle with the Beads which are hung up on a Pole on the Hills and they will
Day Noon the Wind variable with great gusts and Rain at Noon the Ockney Islands bore West about 4 Leagues the Ockney Isles are low such as we saw at the same time we saw Fair Isle being high Land and about 6 Leagues off we found the Tide of Flood to set in very strong between the Ockney and Fair Isles At 8 at Night came a sudden strong gust and put us under a Main-sail Reeft at which time Catnose bore by Judgment about 8 Leagues off West by South we tryed away South-east the Wind at West-south-west a great Storm Sunday August 13. From last Night 8 a Clock to this Day 4 in the Afternoon a great Storm of Wind from the West by South to the West-north-west we tryed away under a Main-sail Reest making her way good by Judgment South-east 37 Miles Lat. per Judgment 58 d. 16 m. departure from Catnose 47 Miles East saw many Pitterals about the Ship at Night less Wind. Monday August 14. From the 13. Noon to this Day Noon a fresh Gale Course per Compass South Lat. per a good Observation 56 d. 38 m. fair Weather Tuesday August 15. From the 14. Noon to this Day Noon little Wind from the West-north-west Course per Compass South distance sailed by the Log 53 Miles fair Weather at Noon the Wind came at South we stood in for the Land spake with two fishing Busses under English Colours but they were Dutch at 6 at Night we got in with the Land about 2 Leagues to the Northward of Tinmouth Castle we tack'd and stood off the Wind at South Wednesday August 16. The Wind from the South to the South-south-east At Noon Tinmouth Castle South-west about 2 Leagues off we ply to the Southward Thursday August 17. From the 16. Noon to this Day Noon the Wind at West-south-west At Noon much Wind we Reeft our Courses and stand along the Shore to the Southward at 2 a Clock Flambrough Head West about 2 Miles Friday August 18. The Wind at West-south-west At Noon we anchored a League to the Northward of Cromer the Tide being spent Saturday August 19. At 6 in the Morning Weighed with the Tide and turned up Yarmouth Roads anchored right against the Town at 8 at Night Weighed and turned up above the Pier and anchored the Tide being spent the Wind at South-west Sunday August 20. At 8 in the Morning Weighed with the Tide of Flood and turned to Windward at 4 in the Afternoon anchored with the Tide of Ebb in Southwole Bay in 8 Fathom Water the Church bearing North-north-west Winds from the South-south-west to the South-south-east a fresh Gale Monday August 21. At 8 at Night Weighed with the Tide of Flood and turned up into Albrough Road and anchored there at 4 the next Morning Lieutenant Whitlock went ashore at Albrough to take Horse for London At 9 in the Morning Weighed with the Tide of Flood the Wind at West-south-west a fresh Gale and turned up into the Sleeway and anchored there about 5 in the Evening in 9 Fathom Water the Naze Land bearing West by North. Tuesday August 22. At 10 a Clock Weighed the Wind at West-south west and turned to Windward with the Flood At 5 in the Morning anchored upon the Tide of Fbb two Miles below the Middle ground At Noon Weighed with the Flood and turned to Windward the Wind at West by South at 6 anchored below the Shore Wednesday August 23. The Wind at West-north-west at 4 in the Morning Weighed Anchor and turned up a Mile above the Buoy of the Noar and anchored upon the Ebb about 8 a Clock At one a Clock Weighed Anchor the Wind at West-north-west we turned up the River Now after the JOURNAL I do intend to shew my Conceptions of the said Voyage and a true Relation of our Miscarriage with some Observations made in the said Voyage THE first was the following the Opinion of William Barrans that was to steer directly North-east from the North Cape and to fall in the mid-way betwixt Greenland and Nova Zembla so having made the Land to the Westward of the North Cape the 19. Day of June I steered away North-east by Compass which was not so much by the true Course because of the variation that is there Westerly and the 22. Day at Noon we saw the main Body of Ice being in the Lat. of 76 d. and about 60 Leagues to the Eastward of Greenland At the first seeing of Ice I did imagin it had been the Ice that joyned to Greenland and that if I went more Easterly there might be a free Sea so I ran close by the Ice it lying away East-south-east and West-north-west and every League or less that we ran we met with a Cape of Ice so when we were about that we could see no Ice to the Northward so standing in North-east sometimes two Glasses that is one hour we could see more Ice a Head and then we were forced to go out the same way we came in and thus I continued Coasting the Ice sometimes with great hopes of a clear Sea and then again disheartened by seeing more Ice till at last I had no hopes at all which was when I saw the Land of Nova Zembla and the Ice joyn to it So here the Opinion of William Barrans was Confuted and all the rest of the Dutch Relations which certainly are all forged abusive Pamphlets as also the Relations of our own Countrymen But certainly if Men did really consider the many individual dangers and mischiefs that comes upon the broaching of such untruths they would never do it for I do now verily believe that if there be no Land to the Northward of the Lat. of 80 d. that the Sea that is there is all frozen and always continueth so for I that could get no farther than 76 d. found it so frozen without intermission and some of the Ice that we saw that was on the main Body of it had been conveyed 10 Degrees more Southward would have taken some Centuries of Years to Thaw it for the loose Ice that lay about the Edges of the main Body was not more than a Foot thick in some pieces above the Superficies of the Water and the rest of the Cake that was sunk was more than 18 Foot below So I conclude that those vast Mountains that were on the main Body were all on Shore as of necessity they must if they hold the same proportion and considering the shallowness of the Water which I found all along the Ice which in the mid-way between the two Lands I found to be no more than 70 Fathom was doubtless a sign that to the Northward is Land and that the main Body of Ice that lyeth crusted about the Shore may be 20 Leagues or more and that Nova Zembla and Greenland are the same Continent for if there had been any Passage there would have been some Current which I could never or very hardly find to be any and the little that was run
Travels and Voyages in two Tomes The first containing Dr. Leonhart Rauwolff's Itinerary into the Eastern Countries as Syria Palestine or the Holy Land Armenia Mesopotamia Assyria Chaldea c. Translated from the High Dutch by Nich. Staphorst The second in taking many parts of Greece Asia Minor Eqypt Arabia Felix and Petraea Ethiopia The Red Sea c. From the Observations of Monsieur Belon Mr. Vernon Dr. Spon Dr. Smith Dr. Huntingdon Mr. Greaves Alpinus Veslingius Thevenot's Collections and others To which are added three Catalogues of such Trees Shrubs and Herbs as grow in the Levant By John Ray Fellow of the Royal Society London Octavo 1693. Printed for S. Smith and B. Walford at the Prince's Arms in S. Pauls Church-Yard The Voyage to Spitzbergen A TABLE OF The Wind and Weather in the Voyage to SPITZBERGEN Day of Mon. Wind. Weather Latitude D. of M. Wind. Weather April 15 N. E.     15 W. Foggs with wind   1671. 16 E. Gloomy With sunshine 56° 16 The same   17 E. The same 57° 17 S. Winds and rains   18 E. The same 58° 49′ 18   Foggy and very cold   19 S. W. by W.   59° 19   Storm and rain   20 S. W. by S. Stormy with rain 61° 20   Warm sunshine and calm   21 S. W. The same 62° 12′ 21 E. Foggs and wind   22 S. W. Windy cold and rain 65° 22   Very fair and warm   23 S. W. Cloudy 66. 14 ' 23   Wind foggs and cold   24 S. W. Storm and cloudy   24   Frost   25 S. W. High winds at night rainy with hail and snow the wind eastward 68° 49′ 25 S. E. Sunshine all day and night           26   The same           28   Stormy all day   26 E. Stormy 71° 3′ 29   Fair weather and calm   27 N. E. by E. Very cold with hail and snow   July 2   Sunshine and pretty warm 28 N. E. and stormy Windy   3   Gloomy and not cold   29 N. E. byN. Foggy all day   4   Sunshine   30 N. Foggs with rain and snow   5   The same   May 1 N. W. Very cold windy with snow   6   The same       and sunshine by turns   7 Windy   2 N. W. by W. Cold winds   8 N. W. Snow and rain   3 N. W. by W. Cold snow and misty   9 N. W. Windy   4 N. W. Snow hail and gloomy   10   Warm sunshine and calm   5 N. W. by N. Moderately cold and sunshine   11 S. Stormy with snow and rain   6 N. W. Snow storms hail and frost   12   Gloomy sunshine   7   Moderate Frost   13 N. E. by E. The same   8 S. W. by S. Cloudy and cold   14 N. E. by E. Foggs all day   9 S. W. by W. The same   15 N. W. Foggs with cold wind   10 N. W. by W. Cold and high winds   16   Wind and snow   11 N. W. by W. Stormy 70° 3′ 17 W. Gloomy sunshine and cold   12 N. Stormy and very cold   18   Fair weather and calm   13 N. The same   19   The same   14 N. E. Fair and sunshine 75° 22′ 20 S. W. Storm and snow   15 N. E.   75° 33′ 21   Rain all day   16 N. Sunshine cold and windy   22   Fogg all day   17 N. E. by N. Hard frost   23   Warm and sunshine   18 N. E. by N. Calm weather 75° 35′ 24   The same   19 N. Gloomy sunshine and calm   25 S. W. Cloudy and cold and night-fogs   20 N. Calm very cold   26   The same   22 S.     27 S. W. Gloomy   23   Sunshine 77° 24′ 29 N. W. Very cold   24 S. Storms rain and snow   30 N. W. Fogs and windy   25 N. W. Windy and cold   Aug. 1 N. W. Storms fogs and rain   26 W. Snow and sunshine by turns   2 E. Fogs and frost   27 S. Calm   3 N. E. Gloomy sunshine and cold   28   Clear and windy   4 S. E. by E. Very Foggy and calm   29 S. Hard frost and cloudy   5 S. E. by S. Cloudy and calm   30 S. E. Fair and calm   6 S. E. by S. The same   June 1 N. W. Sunshine   7   High wind stormy with rain   2 N. E. by N. Hard frost and clear   8 S. E. Windy and gloomy   3 N. E. Snow and Stormy   9 S. E. The same 66° 47′ 4 N. Snow and rain and changeable   10 S. W. Dark cloudy and windy   5 N. Stormy with sunshine   11   The same but less wind   6 N. Foggy   12 S. W. N. Rain after noon fair   7   Fair and sunshine   13 N. W. Stormy with rain   8   Foggs and snow   14 N. W. Fair sunshine   9 N. E. Cloudy   15 N. W. Winds clouds and sunshine   10 N. Winds and snow   16 N. W. by N. Windy and gloomy   11 N. SUnshine and windy   17 N. W. Fair weather and warm   12   Cold and stormy   18   The same   13   Windy and foggy 77° 19   The same   14 W. Cold wins   20   The same   THE FIRST PART OF THE VOYAGE INTO Spitzbergen and Greenland CONTAINING The Passages of the whole voyage together with some Account of the Weather from the 15th of April to the 21th of August An. 1671. CHAP. I. Of the Voyage from the Elbe to Spitzbergen WE set Sail the 15th of April 1671. about noon from the Elbe The Wind was North-east At night when ●e came by the Hilge-land it bore to North-west The name of the Ship was Jones in the ●hale Peter Peterson of Friseland Master The 27th we had storms hail and snow with very cold weather the wind North-east and by east we were in 71 degrees and came to the Ice and turned back again The Island of John Maien bore from us South-west and by west as near as we could guess within ten Miles We might have seen the Island plain enough but the Air was haizy and full of fogs and snow so that we could not see far About noon it blew a storm whereupon we took down our Top-sails and furling our Main-sail drove with the Missen-sail towards South-east The 29th it was foggy all day the wind North east and by north we came to the Ice and sailed from it again as you may see in the Plate A. The 3cth the first Sunday after Easter was foggy with rain and snow the wind at North at night we came to the Ice but sailed from it
a half into the Land in the Valleys between the Rocks grows abundance of wild Pease which had green leaves and blewish blossoms both tasting like green Pease-leaves in England growing on vines and tangled together also very sweet smelling Herbs much like Tares very green and white and yellow Flowers likewise green Herbs much like Sage but grow in knots near the ground like Lettice these Herbs with the Pease-leaves made a good Sallad to refresh such as were inclining to the Scurvy for want of which fresh Trade several of my Men were falling into it Here are abundance of very good Muscles and Limpets on theRocks and an Island frequented by many Seals and Fowls in the River were pied Divers as big as Ducks some of them grey and black shags Ducks and other Sea-Fowls breed on them amongst the Rocks and Bushes to day I went upon one of these Islands and caught as many young black Shags in their Nests as loaded the Pinnace when I have discovered better the particulars of the Fowls and other things seen here I will mention them hereafter Night coming on and it beginning to blow hard I went aboard with Herbs Fowls and what else I had got to day and divided all things equally among the Company the Boys Dividend being as large as my own or any Man's it blew very hard this Evening and looked very black in the South-west an ordinary gale I kept a Light out all Night in the Poop for the Pink this day all the Company eat of young Seals and Penguins and commended them for good Food I judged this a very fit Harbour to fit the Ship in for the main Mast must be unrig'd and a new gang of shrouds fitted and Ballast be had and it might be a means to fall in with the Pink for from the tops of the Hills we could see a great way into the Sea so that if she should come near the Coast we could not miss her We found 2 Springs of fresh Water one in a Valley close by the Water-side in a gully above the Ship half a mile up the River the other up a Valley between the Rocks just a-brest where the Ship rode about half a mile from the River's side right from Coopers-Bay in the same Valley these Springs are but small and the Water 's a little brackish or saltish for in the dry Valleys the Earth is naturally saltish the Ground and Rocks have a white Rhime of Salt-petre hanging on them I went into the Land 2 miles North-west and saw the Country hilly and dry Land without Wood or Water some craggy Rocks and Valleys low but dry and of a Salt-petre nature here and there some Bushes with prickly Branches and Leaves like White-Thorn Bushes in England the lesser Bushes have small dry Gauls growing o● them with a small dry Seed as hot in the Mouth as Pepper not a Tree to be seen the Soil is gra● velly and sandy generally with tufts of dry feared Grass growing on it I digged in several places but saw nothing but gravelly Sand and Rocks no sort of Metals or Minerals I looked also among the broken Rocks for Metals but saw no sign of any from the tops of the Hills I could see a great way into the Land which is all Hills and Downs like Cornwall toilsom travelling to those that were not used to it I could travel as far in an hour as many of my Men could in two to day we saw nine Beasts feeding on the Grass very like Deer but larger and had longer Necks but no Horns reddish coloured on the Back and aloft whitish under their Bellies and up their Flanks when we had got within a Furlong of them they fell a neighing like Horses one answered another and then all run away Tuesday March 1. Fair Weather this Morning Wind at North a fine gale and a cold Air. This Forenoon I filled the Casks out of the Spring and dug them deeper I set up a long Pole with a white Cloath upon it on a Hill near a mile into the Land where 't was most likely to be seen by the Inhabitants with it I left Beads a Looking-glass a Knife a Hook and an Hatchet to invite the People of the Country to shew themselves for I was willing to see 'em that I might discover what they had but through I went about the Hills this Afternoon I could see neither People Fire nor Smoak I saw three Ostriches but could not get near enough to make a shot at them they were feeding on Grass and at first sight of me ran ●way I had a Greyhound with me which I turn'd loose upon 'em who gave Chase to one of them and at last gave her a turn which she recovered took to the Hills and so escaped they are grey coloured and larger than a great Turky-cock in England they can't fly but have long Legs and trust to their running I saw two handfuls of Wooll among the Grass where the Natives had made a Fire it was the Spanish red Wooll which they bring out of India and very fine I brought it away with me and set the Greyhound at 3 of the large Beasts like Deer but they were too swift for him Night coming on I returned on Board at 7 a Clock this Night the Wind came to the North a fresh gale and hasey Weather no sight of the Pink to day I could see a long way on the Sea at 10 a Clock it rain'd and the Wind came to the South-East Friday March 4. Fair Weather this Morning the Wind at East a fine gale I went ashore and filled fresh Water the rest of the Seamen fitted rigging this day at 12 a Clock I went with both the Boats and forty Men to Seal-Island into the Harbour every Man with his Staff and Club we landed drove the Seals up together beset them round and in half an hours time killed four hundred young and old striking them on the head kills them presently as soon as they were knocked down we cut their throats that they might bleed well whilst they were hot then loading both the Boats with them I carried them to the Bay where the Tent was landed and laid them upon the Rocks to Night the Boat fetch'd them all off the great Male Seals are as big as Calfs and resemble a Lion in their shaggy Necks Heads and Faces as well as in their Roar the Females are like Lionesses before only they are hairy all over like a Horse and smooth and the Male is smooth all over his hind-parts their shape is very deformed for their hind-part tapers till it come to a point where grow two Fins or Feet two more grow out of their Breast so that they can go on Land a great pace and climb Rocks and Hills of a good height they delight much to lie and sleep ashore some are very large upwards of eighteen Foot in length and thicker about than a But in the Bilge and excessive fat there are
February 12. Fair Weather Wind Northerly This Morning I went over to the North-shore and there I fell with a fine sandy Bay I sounded it and had 6 7 8 9 and 10 Fathom Water above half a Mile from the Shore This Bay is between the second Narrow and Cape Gregory close under Cape Gregory this Cape is about five or six Miles to the Eastwards of the second Narrow here I landed the Winds being Northerly a fresh gale and haled the Boat up dry and went up into the Country to see for Indians but saw none and I returned to the Boat again where we pitched our Tent and lay all Night February 13. Fair Weather and a fresh gale of Wind Westerly This Morning I run all along the North-shore from Cape Gregory to the first Narrow and I was no sooner entred into the first Narrow but I saw three Anchors which lay up above High-water Mark in a small sandy Cove there I landed and haled up the Boat and searched about to see if we could fall with any Guns or other Trade One of the Men found an Iron Commander for some Ships Poop one of those Anchors were twelve Foot long in the Shank and the other two were eleven Foot a piece and they were all spanish Anchors The Land here is barren dry Land and affords neither Wood nor fresh Water and for the space of five or six Miles about the land is full of Rats they have Holes in the Ground like Coney-burroughs their Food I suppose to be Limpet for there is great store of Limpet-shoals lying close to their Holes I saw no Indians here nor any thing worth Observing Night coming on we here pitched our Tent and lay all Night here are very good sandy Bays on the North-side all the way betwixt the first and second Narrow for I sounded all along as I came down in the Boat and had ten and twelve Fathom Water a good Burth off Tuesday February 14. Close hasey Weather with some Rain and very much Wind Westerly This Morning I saw the Ship coming down the Streights and after she was through the Narrow they brought her to and I got a-board and we made all the Sail we could and by Night we got clear of the Streights into the North-sea and at three a Clock Cape Virgin-Mary bore North-west ½ a Point Northerly distance 4 Leagues Thursday February 23. Fair Weather the Wind variable from the North-north-west to the West-north-west This Evening at nine a Clock we came to an Anchor in 22 Fathom Water sandy Ground on the South-part of America in the Lat. of 47 d. 16 m. South and then Cape-Blanco bore North-north-west of me distant about six Leagues February 24. Fair Weather and little Wind Northerly This Morning we weighed to go to Port Desire-Bay and in the Evening at six a Clock we Anchored in the Bay in fourteen Fathom Water February 25. Fair Weather and a Fresh gale of Wind Easterly This day the Long boat went into Port-Desire for fresh-Water but could not fill above five or six Puncheons for there was no more to be had there and all they brought aboard was brackish Fair Weather Wind variable Sunday February 26. Fair Weather and a fresh Wind at South-south-west Thiw Morning we set Sail from Port-Desire to go for England and at twelve a Clock I was in the Latitude of 47 deg 10 m. South And then Cape-Blanco bore Northwest of me but not by the Compass for here is a Point and half variation Easterly and at four a Clock Cape-Blanco bore West-north-west of me by the Compass distance nine Miles and then we had twenty Fathom Water but when it bears West-north-west from you and you are 8 Miles off you will have but ten Fathom Water Here is very good Sounding al the Coast along from this Cape ot Cape Virgin-Mary which lies in 52 d. 15 m. South Within five Leagues off the Main you will have 25 and 30 Fathom Water and 10 Leagues off you will have 50 and 55 Fathom Water it is black oasie Sand. Wednesday May 17. The Weather fair This Evening at six a Clock we saw the Island of Saint Mary one of the Isles of Azores it bore East-north-east of me distant about sixteen Leagues by Estimation fair Weather Wind at South-east May 19. Fair Weather Wind Easterly This Morning at seven a Clock the Town of Puntelegada upon the Island of St. Michaels one of the Isles of Azores bore North of me distant about two Miles and my Longitude difference from Cape-Blanco to this Town is My Meridian distance from Cape-Blanco to this Town is Leagues Miles Tenths Easting this Town lying so far to the Eastward of the Cape This day the Captain sent me a-shore to Puntelegada to enquire News from England whether we had War or Peace with any other Nation or not and I was informed by Mr. Richard Nucheuson that we had War with none but the Argea-Men So I returned a-board again and we made all the Sail we could for England Tuesday May 23. Fair Weather and much Wind at North-east our Provisions being almost done and but little Water in the Ship we bore up to go for Angria at the Tercesas May 24. Close hasey Weather and a fresh gale of Wind at North-east and by North. This Forenoon we Anchored in Angria-Rode in sixteen Fathom Water Friday May 26. Fair Weather and little Wind at North-east This Forenoon we set Sail out of Angria-Rode to go for England Saturday June 10. 1671. It was hasey dirty Weather Wind at S. W. This moring I saw Scilly at seven a Clock it bore N. E. by N. of me distant about 5 Leagues and at six a Clock in the Afternoon the Lizzard bore North of me distant about 3 Leagues Now I make my difference of Longitude from Cape Blanco to the Lizzard in England to be 60 d. 45 m. 2 10. and my Meridian distance is 840 Leagues I am so far to the Eastwards of the Cape A Relation of a Voyage made towards the South Terra Incognita extracted from the Journal of Captain Abel Jansen Tasman by which not only a new Passage by Sea to the Southward of Nova Hollandia Vandemens Land c. is discovered and a vast space of Land and Sea incompassed and sailed round but many considerable and instructive Observations concerning the variation of the Magnetical Needle in parts of the Worlds almost Antipodes to us and several other curious remarks concerning those Places and People are set forth Not long since Published in the Low Dutch by Dirk Rembrantse and now in English from Dr. Hook's Collections IN the year 1642. Aug. 14. He set Sail with two Ships from Batavia to wit the Yacht Heemskirk and the Fly-boat Seehane and the 5. of September came to an Anchor at the Island Mauritius 20 d. South Latitude and 83 d. 48 m. Long. They found this Island 50 Dutch Miles more Easterly than by their reckoning which make 3 d. 33 m. of
Flawes Commander being bound upon the Discovery with us At Eight at Night the Naz● Land boar West North about six Leagues we steered away North-east and North-north-east Monday May 29. The Wind at South-west and West-south-west a fresh Gale with Showers of Rain Course per Compass between the North-east and the North distance sailed by the Log 73 Miles true Course Protracted since last Night Eight a Clock to this Day Noon is North 28 d. East difference of Lat. 68 Miles and departure East from the Naze Land 36 Miles Lat. by Judgment as in the Margent Thick cloudy Weather Tuesday May 30. From yesterday Noon to this Day Noon the Wind variable from South-west to the South-east thick cloudy Weather and a fresh Gale Course per Compass North-north-west and North-west by North distance sailed by the Log 95 Miles true Course is North 28 d. West distance of Lat. 83 Miles departure West 45 Miles Lat. per Judgment Meridian distance West nine Miles Wednesday May 31. From yesterday Noon to this Day Noon the Winds variable with Calms and Rains Courses per Traverse true Course Protracted with all impediments allowed is North 43 d. West 60 Miles difference of Lat. 42. Miles departure West 40 Miles Lat. per Judgment 54 d. 13 m. Lat. by a good Observation at Noon 55 d. 30 m. at which time the Land between New-Castle and Berwick bore West about 8 or 9 Leagues Meridian distance Current from the bearing of the Land and the Lat. is 88 Miles 50 Fathom Water saw two Ships standing to the Southward but would not show their Colours Thursday June 1. From yesterday Noon to this Day Noon a fresh Gale from the West by South to the South-west Course per Compass between the North and the North-west distance sailed by the Log 76 Miles true Course Protracted is North 16 d. West Lat. by a good Observation 56 d. 41 m. departure West 21 Miles At nine in the Morning we gave Chase to a Scotch Fisherman and at Noon came up with her and bought some Fish of him at Noon a hard Gale steered away North being about seven or eight Leagues from the Land between Montross and Edenburgh we steered along the Course North by East till eight a Clock Friday June 2. From yesterday Noon to this Day Noon the Winds variable with fair Weather Course per Compass North distance sailed by the Log 117 Miles but by a good Observation 120 Miles Lat. 58 d. 41 m. Winds from the West-south-west to the South-west At two a Clock a great gust of Wind at North-west with Rain we hand our Top-sails and at three it blew a Storm of Wind we lay a Try under a Main-sail till ten a Clock then sent our Fore-sail Saturday June 3. From yesterday Noon to this day Noon true Course Protracted Leeward way and all impediments allowed is North East 42 Miles Lat. by a good Observation is 59 d. 23 m. Meridian distance from the Naze Land is 100 Miles at Noon saw a small Island called Foril lying to the South of Shetland bearing West-north-west about four Leagues in the Afternoon little Wind. Note that we found the Ship more to the Westward than expected being caused by a variation of 6 or 7 d. East Sunday June 4. This Forenoon little Wind with Calms till about 12 at Noon at which time sprung up a Gale West-north-west blowing very hard we ply to windward and turned into Brace-Sound and anchored in nine Fathom Water right against the Town called Lerwick here is the remains of a Fort that was built in the time of War with Holland but upon the Peace with the Hollanders it was demolished for fear any other Nation might come and take it and so keep it Saturday June 10. Rid still till Saturday seven a Clock at which time Weighed the Wind at South-west we took in a Pilot and sailed out through the North end of Brace Sound having three Fathom Water over the shallowest place Sunday June 11. At four in the Morning Scau bore West by North about six Leagues a fresh Gale at South-west hasey Weather From four in the Morning till twelve at Night Course North-north-east distance sailed by the Log 35 Miles true Course allowed from the bearing of the Land is North-east 41 Miles difference of Lat. 30 Miles Lat. by Judgment 61 d. 26 m. Meridian distance from Shetland 30 Miles East From yesterday Noon to this Day Noon a strong Gale at South-west West-south-west West and West-north-west Course per Compass North-north-east distance sailed by the Log 147 Miles difference of Lat. 135 Miles departure East 56 Miles Lat. by Judgment 63 d. 42 m. Meridian distance East 86 Miles thick cloudy Weather at Noon little Wind. Tuesday June 13. From yesterday Noon to this Day little Wind and variable with Calms from the North-west to North-north-east we ply to windward True Course Protracted all impediments allowed is North-north-east 23 Miles difference of Lat. 21 Miles North departure East 8 Miles Lat. by Judgment 64 d. 03 m. Meridian distance 94 Miles Lat. by a good Observation 64 d. 03 m. Wednesday June 14. From the 13. Noon to this Day Noon the Winds variable with fresh Gales Rains and little Winds Course per Traverse between the North-east and the North distance sailed by the Log 92 Miles true Course Protracted all impediments allowed is North 18 d. difference of Lat. 81 Miles departure East 30 Miles Meridian distance 124 Miles Thursday June 15. From the 14. Noon to this Day Noon the Winds variable with Calms from the West to the South-west Course per Compass North-north-east distance sailed by the Log 67 Miles true Course Protracted with allowance is North 22 ½ d. East difference of Lat. 62 Miles departure East 26 Miles Lat. per Judgment 66 d. 26 m. Meridian distance 150 Miles East At Noon broke our Main Topsail-Yard being rotten in the Slings thick hasey Weather Friday June 16. From the 15. Noon to this Day Noon a fresh Gale at West-north-west and West-south-west with Rains and thick Weather Course per Compass North-north-east and North-east by North distance sailed per Log 126 Miles true Course Protracted is North 30 d. East difference of Lat. 108 Miles departure East 63 Miles Lat per Judgment 68 d. 14 m. Meridian distance 223 Miles Saturday June 17. From the 16. Noon to this Day Noon a fresh Gale at West-north-west and West with Rain and cloudy Weather Course per Compass North-east distance sailed by the Log 127 Miles difference of Lat. 90 Miles departure East 90 Miles Lat per Judgment 69 d. 48 m. Meridian distance 303 Miles but by a good Observation at Noon Lat. 69 d. 53 m. difference of Lat. between the Dead Reckoning and Observation is 9 Miles which imputed to a westerly variation which is found by an Azimuth 7 d. Meridian distance Corrected is 300 Miles fair Weather Sunday June 18. From the 17. Noon to this day Noon the Wind from West-north-west to the
West-south-west fair Weather Course per Compass North-east by East distance sailed by the Log 83 Miles true Course Protracted and variation allowed is East 33 d. North difference of Lat. 47 Miles by Observation departure 66 Miles Lat. by a good Observation 70 d. 30 m. Meridian distance 367 Miles East Yesterday and this Day we saw many Whales Monday June 19. From the 18. Noon to this Day Noon a fresh Gale at West by South thick hasey Weather with Rains at seven a Clock in the Forenoon saw many Sea Fowles more than at any time yet with many Jubartesses at ten a Clock saw the Land being the Islands that lie about 20 Leagues to the Westward of the North Cape true Course allowed for variation is North-north-east distance sailed by the Log 135 Miles difference of Lat. 50 Miles departure East 30 Miles Lat. per Judgment 71 d. 20 m. Meridian distance 497 Miles At Noon the Island Sanden bore South by East about 8 or 9 Leagues off this Island is a high craggy Land with some Snow on the Land Tuesday June 20. From the 19. Noon to this day Noon Course per Compass between the East-north-east and the North-east distance sailed by the Log 128 Miles true Coursed allowed for the variation is North 43 d. East difference of Lat. 91 Miles departure 88 Miles East Lat. per Judgment 72 d. 51 m. Meridian distance 585 Miles From yesterday Noon to this day Noon the first 12 Hours a fresh Gale at South-west but the last 12 Hours much Wind with small Rains and great Fogs saw many Sea Fowles Wednesday June 21. From the 20. to the 21. Noon a stiff Gale with Gusts and small Rains Course per Compass North-east distance sailed by Log 35 Miles true Course allowed by variation is North 40 d. East difference of Lat. 103 Miles departure East 86 Miles Lat. per Judgment 74 d. 34 m. Meridian distance 671 Miles thick cloudy Weather saw many Sea Fowles Thursday June 22. From the 21. Noon to this 22. Noon Course per Compass North-east distance sailed per Log 116 Miles true Course allowed by variation and Leeward way is North 43 d. East difference of Lat. 85 Miles departure East 79 Miles Lat. per Judgment 75 d. 59 m. Meridian distance 750 Miles East the Wind at North-west a fresh Gale Weather variable sometime cloudy and sometimes fair but very cold At Noon we saw Ice right a Head about a League off we sailed close to it and found it to lie away East-south-east and West-north-west we bore away East-south-east along the Ice in the Afternoon we had some small Snow and very cold Weather Friday June 23. From yesterday Noon to this Day Noon we steered along the Ice finding it to have many openings which we sailed into but found them to be Bays our true Course sailed along the Ice the variation allowed was East 14 d. South 77 m. Lat. per Judgment 75 d. 41 m. difference of Lat. 19 m. departure 74 Miles Meridian distance 824 Miles Wind N. N. W. At Noon we sounded and had 158 Fathom soft green Oar and found the Current to set South-south-east we have found very smooth to Leeward of this Ice and in some places found pieces of the Ice driving off a Mile sometimes more or less from the main body of the Ice finding it to be in several strange shapes resembling Trees Beasts Fishes Fowles c. The main Body of the Ice being low but very Craggy being many pieces lying close together and some a top of each other and in some places we saw high hillocks of blue colour but all the rest of the Ice very white as though it were Snow In some places we saw drift Wood amongst the Ice we took up some of the Ice and melted it and the Water very fresh and good this Day we found very cold and freezing Saturday June 24. From the 23. Noon to this Day Noon little Wind at North by West we steered close along the Ice sailing into every opening but could not find any Passage through neither could we see over the Ice in any place from our Topmast-Head true Course Protracted as we sailed along the Ice is East 34 d. South difference of Lat. 24 Miles South departure East 34 Miles Lat. per Judgment 75 d. 18 m. but by a good Observation at Noon the Lat. 74 d. 50 m. the difference between the Dead Lat. and the observed Lat. is 28 Miles which difference hath been caused by the Current setting South-south-east At Noon we sounded and had 128 Fathom Water and the Current as yesterday South-south-east this last 24 Hours fair Weather with little Winds having some small Fogs but lasted not above half an Hour at a time Meridian distance 858 Miles Sunday June 25. From the 24. Noon to this Day Noon little Wind with Calms and the most part foggy so that we durst not venture in the Ice but lay by and stood off true Course Protracted is East 30 d. South difference of Lat. 13 Miles South departure East 19 Miles Lat. per Judgment 74 d. 37 m. Meridian distance 877 Miles East Wind variable from the North-west to the West-south-west At One in the Afternoon the Fog broke up hard freezing Weather our Rigging and Sails frozen for as fast as the Fog fell it freezed Monday June 26. From the 25. Noon to this Day Noon little Wind from the North-west to North Course per Compass between the West-south-west and the North-east distance sailed by the Log 63 Miles difference of Lat. 7 Miles North departure East 58 Miles true Course Protracted is East 7 d. North Lat. per Judgment is 74 d. 40 m. Meridian distance 935 Miles At Noon we stood is close with the Ice and saw something to move we judging it might be Sea-Horses or Morses lying on the Ice we sent our Boat to see and they found two Sea-Horses upon the Ice they fired several shot at them but could not kill them notwithstanding that they were much wounded they got into the Water and so went under the Ice We have found the Ice to lie away East these 24 Hours the Wind at North and very cold and at 12 at Night 70 Fathom green Oar at 9 in the Evening saw Land the North part of it bearing East and the South part South-east being high and covered with Snow about 15 Leagues off Sounded and had 125 Fathom Tuesday June 27. From Monday the 26. to Tuesday 27. little Wind from the North-west to the North by East with Calms we kept close with the Ice and found it joyn to the Land of Nova Zembla true Course Protracted is East by North 30 Miles difference of Lat. 16 Miles departure East 29 Miles Lat. per Judgment 74 d. 46 m. Meridian distance 964 Miles at Noon 83 Fathom Water about 6 Leagues from the Shore we rowed in towards the Shore and found the Ice to lic about 5 Leagues from the Shore we went out of our Boat on
him who immediately saw our Fire and steered into us and sent his Boat to help to bring off our Men with that we broke up our new Work which was done to our Long-Boat and Lanched her and about Noon got all on Board Captain Flawes in good Health Journal on Board the Prosperous Captain William Flawes Commander From Nova Zembla to England 1676. SUnday July 9. From the 8. 12 at Night to this 9. 12 at Noon the Winds variable with Fogs and small Rain we stand off to the Westward true Course Protracted with allowance for variation is West 8 d. South difference of Lat. 8 Miles departure 67 Miles Lat. per Judgment 73 d. 42 m. Meridian distance from Point Staten being the Westermost Land off of Nova Zembla and the last Land we saw 67 Miles very cold Weather Monday July 10. From the 9. Noon to this Day Noon the Winds variable from the South-west by West to the West and so to the North and North-north-east with small Rain great Fogs and very cold Weather true Course Protracted is West 35 Miles variation allowed 12 d. West Meridian distance 102 Miles a great Sea from the Westward Tuesday July 11. From the 10. Noon to this Day Noon the Winds variable from the North-north-east to the North-west Course per Compass West by South distance sailed by the Log 102 Miles true Course allowed for variation is West 68¼ South distance of Lat. 34 Miles departure 96 Miles Lat. per Judgment 73 d. 06 m. Meridian distance 198 Miles thick cloudy Weather and very Cold. Wednesday July 12. From the 11. Noon to this Day Noon little Wind and variable with Calms small Rains and Fogs distance sailed by the Log 27 Miles between the West by North and the West by South true Course allowed with all impediments is West at Noon Lat. by Observation 73 d. 34 m. which is 34 Miles more northerly than expected the variation I suppose came from the Lat. we departed from on Nova Zembla Meridian Distance Corrected is 222 Miles West at Noon calm and fair Weather Thursday July 13. From the 12. Noon to this Day Noon the Wind variable from the West to the South-south-west a fresh Gale we ply to the Westward close Haul'd Course per Compass between the South-south-west and the West-north-west true Course Protracted all impediments allowed is West by North ½ North 69 Miles difference of Lat. 17 Miles departure 59 Miles Lat by Judgment 73 d. 51 m. Meridian distance 279 Miles Cold cloudy Weather with small Rains Friday July 14. From the 13. Noon to this Day Noon the Winds variable from the South-south-west to the West-north-west a fresh Gale and sometimes little Wind we ply to the Westward sometimes on one Tack and sometimes on the other true Course Protracted all impediments allowed is West-south-west ½ South difference of Lat. 9. Miles South departure West 20 Miles Lat. per Judgment 73 d. 35 m. Meridian distance 299 Miles Saturday July 15. From the 14. Noon to this Day Noon the Winds fresh with gusts from the North-west to the West we ply to the Westward sometimes to the Southward distance sailed by the Log 70 Miles true Course Protracted is South-west 33 d. 45 m. difference of Lat. 52 Miles Departure West 34 Miles Lat. per Judgment 72 d. 43 m. Meridian distance 333 Miles cold and cloudy Sunday July 16. From the 15. Noon to this Day Noon the Wind at West-south-west and West by South a fresh Gale but from 8 at Night till 8 in the Morning much Wind we lay a try under a Main-sail true Course Protracted Leeward-way and variation allowed is North by West ¼ West 31 Miles difference of Lat. 30 Miles departure West 7 Miles Lat. per Judgment 73 d. 13 m. Meridian distance 340 Miles Rain with very thick Weather Monday July 17. From the 16. Noon to this Day Noon little Wind from the West by North to the West with Rains Fogs and Calms we ply to the Westward close upon a Wind true Course Protracted all impediments allowed is West by South ● West distance of Lat. 3 Miles departure 23 miles Lat per Judgment 73 d. 10 m. Meridian distance 360 Miles at 11 in the Forenoon the Wind came up at South-south-east and foggy Tuesday July 18. From the 17. Noon to this Day Noon the Winds from the South to the West-south-west we ply to the Westward close haul'd between the West and North-west distance sailed by the Log 87 Miles true Course Protracted is West by North ¼ North 80 Miles distance of Lat. 18 Miles departure 77 Miles Lat. per Judgment 73 d. 28 m. Meridian distance 437 Miles thick foggy Weather Wednesday July 19. From the 18. Noon to this Day Noon the Wind at South-west and South-south-west with very thick Fogs Course per Compass West-north-west and West close Haul'd distance sailed by the Log 74 Miles true Course variation and Leeward-way allowed is West-north-west ½ North 70 Miles difference of Lat. 32 Miles departure 60 Miles Lat. per Judgment 74 d. Meridian distance 497 Miles at Night much Wind we hand our Top-sails Thursday July 20. From the 19. Noon to this Day Noon for the most part much Winds at West-south-west and South-west with great Fogs we ply close upon a Wind North-west by West and West-north-west distance sailed by the Log 65 Miles true Course variation and Lee-way allowed is North-north-west ¼ West distance of Lat. 55 Miles departure 33 Miles Lat. per Judgment 74 d. 55 m. Meridian distance 530 Miles Friday July 21. From the 20. Noon to this Day Noon the Wind from the South-west to the West Course per Compass South by West upon one Tack and West-north-west on the other close Haul'd distance sailed by the Log 61 Miles true Course Protracted all impediments allowed is South by West ¾ West 48 Miles distance of Lat. 45 Miles departure 16 Miles Lat. per Judgment 74 d. 12 m. very thick foggy and cold till about Noon it cleared up Saturday July 22. From the 21. Noon to this Day 4 in the Morning the Wind at South-west by West and South-west with thick Fogs Course West by North and North-north-west 46 Miles at which time it was very foggy Weather we saw many Willocks and other Sea Fowles more than usual which made us think that we were near the Land of Cherry-Island we cast the Lead and had 60 Fathom a rough Sand with that we Tack'd and stood off South-south-east and South-east by East 9 Miles till Noon at which time we Sounded and had 78 Fathom Lat. at 4 in the Morning by Judgment 74 d. 26 m. Meridian distance 589 Miles at which time I was by my Reckoning 13 Leagues West from Cherry Island according to the Meridian distance I made from the Cape to Nova Zembla and from Nova Zembla back here Lat. at Noon by Judgment 74 d. 20 m. Meridian distance 582 Miles Sunday July 23. From the 22. Noon to this Day Noon the Winds variable with
East-south-east along the Ice which is nothing else but a small Tide which riseth some 8 Foot Thus the Ice having been an obstacle in our way as also the cause of my coming so far to the Eastward which before I never intended I will come to the misfortune that happened to us in the loss of our Ship which was thus being amongst the Ice the 29. Day of June in the Morning we had like to have been inclosed in it it proving likewise foggy Weather I stood out to the Southward thinking to lye there till fairer Weather or to spend some time to the Southward and then come up to the Ice again to see if there might be any alteration in it as to its removal either East West North or south but all this Day it proved foggy dirty Weahter the Wind being at West so we lay South-south-west with the Stem and by our Judgment and Reckoning the Westermost Land of Nova Zembla bore from us East-south-east that was 4 Points under our Lee Bow But such was our misfortune that it proved not so for about 10 of the Clock Captain Flawes being upon our Weather Quarter fired a Gun and bore to me and called out that there was Ice a Head then I looking out a Head saw something white just under the Bow which presently I perceived to be a breath and no Ice now if I had staied with the Ship Captain Flawes being to Windward I should have been on Board of him and then certainly we had been both lost so I was forced to bear up with hope that I might get clear of it but the Ship being a great while wearing struck on the Rock her Head lying to Seaward which if it had not but that the Broadside had been to the Sea we had all perished without Gods great mercy Captain Flawes in the mean time being a shorter Ship wore round and came close under our Stern and with great Providence escaped and stood off to Sea here we lay beating on the Rock in most cruel manner for the space of 3 or 4 hours using all possible means to save her but all in vain for it blew so hard that it was impossible to carry out an Anchor capable to do us any service though we had an opportunity to carry a small Anchor and warp to hall another out by which signified but little the Ship all this while lay and at the end of 4 or 5 hours we saw Land close under our Stern to the great amazement of us all which before we could not see for the foggy Weather so I commanded the Men to get out our Boats before our Mast came by the Board which was done I sent the Boatswain toward the Shore in the Pinnace to see if there was any possibility of landing which I much feared because the Sea ran so high In half an hour he returned with this answer that it was impossible to save a Man the Sea ran so high and the Snow being in high Clifts on Shore was unaccessible which was but bad tidings so then it was high time to think on the safety of our Souls and we went all together to Prayers to beseech God to have Mercy on us for now nothing but individual ruin appeared before our Eyes after Prayers being done it proved a little clearer Weather and I looking over the Stern saw a small Beach directly with the Stern of the Ship where I thought might be some possibility of landing so I sent the Pinnace again with some Men to be landed but they durst not venture on Shore so I sent the Long-Boat with some 20 Men to Land who attempted it and got safe on Shore so they in the Pinnace seeing that followed them and their Men likewise and both returned on Board again now the Men on the Shore sent to me desire some Fire-Arms and Ammunition for there was many Bears on Shore so I caused to be put into the Pinnace two Barrels of Powder that we had saved dry before the Ship was belged and some small Arms and some Provision with my own Papers and Mony but as she put off from the Ship side a Sea overset her so that all was lost with the life of one Man by name John Bosman being Coopers Mate and several others taken up for dead the Long-Boat being then on Shore to Land more Men and they hearing us call from aboard when as then we could not see the Shore they came on Board and saved the Men but the Pinnace was all broke to pieces which was no small grief to us so the Long-Boat being on Board and the Sea running prodigious high the Boatswain and some others would compel me and the Lieutenant to leave the Ship saying that it was impossible for the Boat to live any longer in that Sea and that they had rather be drowned than I but desiring me when I came on Shore if it were possible to send the Boat again for them so I being half way on Shore the Ship over-set so I made all the hast possible to Land them Men I had in the Boat and having landed them I went off to the Ship again to save those poor Men that had been so kind to me before so with great hazard I got with the Boat to the Quarter of the Ship and they came down the Ladder into the Boat only one Man who was left for dead which was one that had been cast away in the Pinnace whose name was Alexander Frazor a very pretty Saylor So I returned to the Shore and got safe to Land though very wet and cold so we hauled up the Boat on Shore and went up the Land about a flightshoot where our Men were making a Fire and a Tent with Canvas and Oars which we had saved for that Purpose so we lay all that Night very cold wet and weary The next Morning the Man that we left on Board recovered and got unto the Mizen-Top for that Mast we left standing when we came away the other we had cut all down The Ship laboured and beat violently but it blew so hard and the Sea ran so high that it was impossible to save him so the Weather continuing blowing with extreme Fogs and with Frost and Snow and all the ill compacted Weather that could be imagined together We built more Tents to preserve our selves and the Ship breaking in pieces came all ashore to the same place where we landed which served for shelter and Firing besides there came to us some Hogsheads of Flower and Brandy good store which was no little Comfort in our great Extremity Here we lay betwixt hope and despair hoping for fair Weather that Captian Flawes might find us which was impossible that ever he should do if it continued foggy and some despairing of his being safe but that he might be Lost as well as we But supposing we never was to see him again I was resolved to try the utmost to save as many as I could in
our second fish which was a male one and this fish when they wounded him with Lances bled very much so that the Sea was tinged by it where he swam we brought him to the Ship when the Sun was in the North for the Sun is the Clock to the Seamen in Spitzbergen for else they would live without order and mistake in the usual seven weekly days On the 14th it was cold and windy the night foggy the wind blew West that day we came to Hans Lichtenberg We arrived at Spitzbergen June the 14th First we came to the Foreland thereof then to the seven Ice-hills or Mountains then we passed the Harbour or Bay of the Hamburgers Magdalens English men and Danes and sailed into the South-bay we were followed by 7 Ships 3 Hamburgers and 4 Hollanders as is to be seen by a in the Plate C. For here it is just the same as when they will sail into the Ice if more then one is there for no body cares to be the first because they do not know in what condition the Harbour or the Ice is within In our Voyage thither we saw no Ice at all until we came to Spitzbergen for the wind had blown it all away in the night we did cut off the fat of the fish and filled with it 65 Kardels or Vessels That night we sailed with three Boats into the English Harbour or Bay and saw a Whale and flung into him three Harpoons and threw our Lances into him the Whale run underneath the small Ice and remained a great while under water before he came up again and then ran but a very little way before he came up again and this he repeated very often so that we were forced to wait on him above half an hour before he came from underneath the Ice The Harpoons broke out at length and we lost him On the Ice we saw two great Sea-horses or Morses that were got upon the sheet of Ice through a hole that was in it and were asleep we cut off their return by covering the hole with a piece of Ice then we awaken'd them with our Lances and they began to defend themselves for a while before they were killed We saw also many White-fish On the 22th we had very fair weather and pretty warm we were by Rehenfelt Deersfeild where the Ice stood firm we saw six Whales and got one of them that was a male and our third fish he was kill'd at night when the Sun stood westward this fish was kill'd by one man who flung the Harpoon into him and kill'd him also while the other Boats were busie in pursuing or hunting after another Whale This fish run to the Ice and before he died beat about him with his tail the Ice setled about him so that the other Boats could not come to this Boat to assist him till the Ice separated again that they might row when they tied one Boat behind the other and so towed the Whale to the great Ship where they cut him up into the Vessels and filled with him 45 Barrels This night the Sun shined very brightly On the 29th we had fair weather Sun-shine and calm On the same day we sailed before the wide Harbour or Bay where we found a great quantity of the fat of a Whale three Vessels full together with the Image of St. Nicholas which stood behind a Ship that was lost driving in the Sea There was also here and there still much Ice On the 1st of July about noon two Whale came near to our Ship we saw that they had a mind to couple together we set our Boat for them and the Harpoonier hit the female which when the other found he did not stay at all but made away The female run all along above the water straight forward beating about with her tail and fins so that we durst not come near to lance her yet one of our Harpooniers was so fool hardy to venture too near to the fish which saluted him with a stroak of her tail over his back so vehemently that he had much ado to recover his breath again Those in the other Boat to shew their valour also hasten'd to the fish which overturned their Boat so that the Harpoonier was forced to dive for it and hide his head underneath the water the rest did the same they thought it very long before they came out for it was cold so that they came quaking to the Ship again In the same morning a Whale appear'd near our Ship before the wide Harbour we put out four Boats from our Ship after him but two Holland Ships were about half a League from us one of them sent out a Boat towards us we used great diligence and care to take him but the fish came up just before the Dutchman's Boat and was struck by him with a Harpoon Thus he took the bread out of our mouths On the 2d of July we had Sun-shine all day and night long and it was pretty warm withal about midnight we went a hunting and caught the fifth fish who was a male we cut the fat off and flung it into the Forecastle This is done when they are very busie in Whale catching that they may not lose time then they cut great pieces off of the Whale that they may have done the sooner for it doth not harm the fat if it should lie so for several days nay some reckon it to be the better for it but that cannot be for the fat runs away from it On the 4th we had Sun-shine all day and night We still were Whale hunting and that night we got the sixth fish a male also he held 49 Kardels of fat On the 3d and 4th day of July we saw more Whales than we did in all our Voyage On the 5th of July in the forenoon it was bright Sun-shine and pretty warm in the afternoon it was foggy at night Sun-shine again which lasted all the night We hunted all that day long and in the morning we struck a Whale before the Weigatt this fish run round about under the water and so fastned the Line whereon our Harpoon was about a Rock so that the Harpoon lost its hold and that fish got away This Whale did blow the water so fiercely that one might hear it at a Leagues distance The same day about noon the wind south and Sun-shine we got the seventh fish which was a female and had 45 Kardels of fat this we cut also into the Hold and so we sailed from Weigatt a little toward the west before the Muscle-Harbour where we dropped our Anchor we were employed with cutting the great pieces of fat into lesser pieces to fill our Kardels with them in the mean while the wind turned to North-west and west and the single Anchor was dragg'd by the Ship so we dropped another and would have weigh'd up the former but our Cable broke the Anchor being fastned to a Rock On the 6th we had the same
weather and warm Sun-shine all night Hard by us rode a Hollander and the Ships crew busie in cutting the fat of a Whale when the fish burst with so great a bounce as if a Canon had been discharged and bespattered the Workmen all over On the 8th the wind turned North-west with snow and rain We were forced to leave one of our Anchors and thank'd God for getting off from Land for the Ice came on fiercely upon us at night the wind was laid and it was colder although the Sun shined On the 9th we got another male Whale being the eighth which was yellow underneath the head we filled with him 54 Kardels with fat the Sun shined all night On the 12th we had gloomy Sun-shine all day At night we sailed with three Boats into the Ice before the Weigatt and got three white Bears an old one with two young ones they swam in the water like fish On the Ice lay abundance of Sea-horses and the further we came into the Ice there were the more of them we rowed up to them and when we came near to them we killed ten of them the rest came all about our Boat and beat holes through the sides of the Boat so that we took in abundance of water we were forced at length to row away from them because of their great number for they gathered themselves more and more together they pursued us as long as we could see them very furiously Afterwards we met with another very great one who lay in the water fast asleep but when he felt our Harpoon within him he was very much frightned and ran away before the Boat again where he was soon eased of his fright by our Lances We saw but very few Whales more and those we did see were quite wild that we could not come near them That night it was so dark and foggy that we could hardly see the Ships length we might have got Sea-horses enough but we were afraid of loosing our Ships for we had examples enough of them that had lost their Ships and could not come to them again but have been forced to return home in other Ships When after this manner any have lost their Ships and cannot be seen they discharge a Cannon from the Ship or sound the Trumpets or Haut-boys according as they are provided in their Ships that the men that are lost may find their Ship again On the 13th we had cloudy Sun-shine the wind towards night turned to North-east and by east The Ice came a floating down apace we sailed from the South-east Land to the west and we could but just get through by the North side from the Bear-Harbour or Bay We sailed on to the Rehenfelt or Deer-field where the Ice was already fixed to the Land so that we could but just get through we sailed further to the Vogelsanck Birds-song as you may see by b in the Plate D. Then we turned toward the East with a North-east wind in company with twelve Ships more to see whether there were any more Whales left with George and Cornelius Mangelsen and Michael Appel who sailed in four fathoms water and touched upon the wreck of a Ship that was lost there On the 14th in the morning we sailed still amongst the Ice the wind being North-east and by east we had a fogg all that day with Sun-shine with a Rainbow of two colours white and pale yellow and it was very cold and we saw the Sun a great deal lower On the 15th it was windy cold and foggy the whole day the wind turned North-west and the Ice came on in abundance so that we could hardly sail for it was every where full of small sheets of Ice At this time there were many ships beset with Ice in the Deer or Muscle-Bay We sailed all along near the shoar and at night we entred the South-Harbour marked with c in the Cut D where 28 Ships lay at Anchor 8 whereof were Hamburgers the rest Dutchmen From that time when we sailed out of the South-haven we kept always within sight of the Land and saw it always except it was foggy and so long the Skippers stay by the Ice to see whether there is any more Whales to be had That night we fetched water from the Land near the Cookery of Harlingen out of a hole marked by b in the Plate C. On the 16th in the morning we saw the Moon and afterwards it was windy with abundance of snow On the 18th we had fair weather with Sun-shine and we were also becalmed that we could not sail wherefore we towed with a Boat into the Danish Harbour to gather some Herbs from the Rocks In the South-Haven rode 30 Ships at Anchor On the 19th we had warm Sun-shine and fair weather but in the night stormy and rain On the 20th storms rain and a great deal of snow the wind South-west On the 21th rain all day long CHAP. II. Of our home Voyage from Spitzbergen to the Elbe ON the 22th day of July in the morning when the Sun was North-east we waied our Anchors and sailed out of the South-Haven we had a fogg all day long and Sun-shine at night in the night we saw abundance of Fin-fishes On the 24th it was so warm with Sun-shine that the Tarr wherewith the Ship was daubed over melted we drove it being calm before the Haven or Bay of Magdalen On the 25th it was cloudy and Sun-shine but cold withal at night we came to the Forelands the night was foggy the wind South-west On the 26th we had the very same weather all day the Sun was very low in the night On the 28th we turned from the side of the North-Foreland towards the west when the Sun was South-east and we did sail South-west and by west towards the Sea then we changed our Course southwards and stood South-east On the 29th 30th and 31th we sailed South-east and by south all along by the Land the south side of the Foreland was 8 Leagues from us bearing North-east then we sailed South-west and by south it was very cold with a North-west wind We saw daily abundance of Fin-fishes but no more Whales On the 9th of August it was windy all day with a gloomy Sun-shine in the forenoon it cleared up towards noon the wind was South-east when we took the Meridian heighth of the Sun and were at 66 degrees 47 minutes we sailed South-westward all along the Northern shoar of the Country On the 13th being Sunday in the morning the wind was North-west stormy with rain and west winds In the night we had very clear Moon and Star-light In the morning we saw the northern part of Hitland we sailed southward after the rain we saw Fair-Isle and sailed in betwixt Hitland and Fair-Isle first South-west and afterwards South-west and by south and then southward On the 20th it was fair weather warm Sun-shine and somewhat windy When the day began to appear we saw Hilgeland South-eastward of us
Of the Whales about Spitzbergen and how they differ from other Whales with an exact description of all the parts of a Whale and a what uses they are applied from p. 130 to p. 144 Of the sever ways of catching Whales from p. 145 to p. 156 How they mannage the dead Whales several ways of Trying out of the Train-Oil from the Fat from p. 197 to p. 164 Of the Finn-fish being the length of a Whale but much less in bulk p. 16● Of Rotz fishes and Sea-qualms Of the Sea May-fly Of the Snail Slime-fish Of the Hat Slime-fish Of the Rose like shaped Slime-fish Of the Slime fish like a Cap. Of the Slime fish like a Fountain from p. 165 to p. 175. Contents of the Supplement A Description of Cherry and other Islands from p. 179 to p. 184 John mayens Island p. 185 Groenland or Engroenland p. 187 The Discovery of Freezland or Friseland p. 206 To the Hon. ble Sam Pepys Esq r. This Mapp of the STREIGHTS of MAGELLAN Drawn by S r Io. n Narbrough is humbly Dedicated by Sam Smith and Benj Wallford A JOURNAL KEPT BY Captain John Narbrough c. MAY 15. 1669. This day being Saturday I received from the Honourable Mr. Wren Secretary to his Royal Highness the Duke of York my Commission to Command his Majesty's Ship the Sweepstakes the Ship being at Deptford in the River of Thames near London Sunday September 26. 1669. Set out at his Majesty's proper Cost one of his own Ships named the Sweepstakes Burthen 300 Tuns with 36 great Ordnance and all other Munition proportionable manned with 80 Men and Boys victualled for fourteen Months at whole allowance of all Provisions both good and wholesom having Oat-meal for Fish and four Tuns and an half of Brandy in lieu of Beer stores of all sorts compleat for twelve months with provision of Craft to take Fish and Fowls a seyne Net and hooks and lines and fisgigs and harping Irons twelve Fowling-pieces with shot and pigs of Lead to make Shot if occasion c. And the Batchelour Pink burthen 70 Tuns with four great Ordnance and all other Munition proportionable mann'd with nineteen Men one Boy victualled for twelve months at whole allowance of all Provision good and wholesom as the Sweepstakes had and stores proportionable for the time and Craft to take Fish and Fowl c. Having a sort of Goods to the value of three hundred pounds as followeth Knives Sissers Glasses Beads Hatchets Bills Hoes Nails Needles Pins Pipes Bells Boxes c. Dassels Linnen Cloth Osenbrigs Tobacco and Pipes c. to trade with the Natives at his Majesty's Charge Wednesday September 29. Hazy weather the Wind to the North-west and by West a fresh gale I stood to the South-west-ward as near as I could this day at twelve a Clock the Lizard bore North of me a little Easterly distance about 12 Leagues according to my account Latitude by account is 49 d. 35 m. This day I spoke with a French Banker Lizard in England lies in the Lat. of 50 d. 10 m. and in Longitude East from the Meridian of the West part of St. Michael one of the Islands of the Azores 18 d. 30 m. From the Lizard I take my departure and keep my daily account of the difference of my Longitude from that Meridian October the 17. I made the Madera which Island is high Land and irregular in Hills with Wood on the top and down the sides Planted with Vines there is some Sugar made in the Island the Inhabitants Portugueses The City of Fonchiale is the Metropolis and is situated in a Bay on the South part of the Island close to the Sea side walled next the Sea and well fortified with Ordnance fresh water comes running into the Sea in the middle of the Bay in a fair Rivulet from under an Arch in the Wall the shoar-sides are great pebble stones in the Bay and Rocks in the other places the Road is foul ground to the East part of it the Ships ride in shot of Ordnance of the City this City is about an English mile in length and three quarters of a mile in breadth The Desarts are barren rocky Isles of a good heighth and lie at the South-east point of Madera above a mile distant from the shore there is water enough between Madera and the Desarts in the midway and no danger the Desarts trent to the South-east Fonchiale Bay in the Isle of Madera lies in the Latitude of 32 d. 10 m. North and in Longitude West from the Lizard of England 10 d. 1 m. and Meridian distance 143 Leagues Sunday being the 17th fair Weather and little wind at North-west Course by my Compass South-west I make my true Course from Fonchiale Bay till to day at noon South-south-west distance sailed 34 miles six tenths departure West 13 miles Diff. Lat. 00 d. 32 m. Lat. by account 31 d. ●8 m. Meridian distance from the Lizard West 147 leagues 1 mile Longitude from the Lizard West 10 d. 17 m. Difference of Longitude from Fonchiale West 00 d. 16 m. To day at noon I saw the Island of Madera bearing N b. E the body of the Isle distant by estimation 11 leagues it makes in a bluff body at the West end and trents to the East Course by the Compass this afternoon SW little wind to night I shaped my nearest Course for the Island of St. Jago with all the sail I could make the Batchelour Pink in Company I gave order to my Master to make the best of his way to St. Jago Island but not to leave the Company of the Batchelour Saturday October 23. The wind at N. b. E. a gale this day in the forenoon I crossed the Tropick of Cancer all my men in good health I praise the Almighty God for it many of my men that had been with me in the Indies formerly were let blood for I take bleeding in these hot Climates to be a great preserver of health diverting Calentures I experienc'd it in two Voyages before to the Island of St. Helena and in one to the Coast of Guinea where several of my men under that distemper were preserved by bleeding in all these Voyages I was never sick one day nor in two years time in the Mediterranean Sea nor at the Canaries for when I came near the Equinoctial I always breathed a Vein Thursday October 28. the Wind at East-North-East a stiff gale this Morning I saw the Isle of Mayo bearing S. b. W. distant by estimation eight Leagues it makes a high Hill and Craggy to the East part and low land towards the shore-side to the North-west part of the Island it lies from B●navist S. b. W. distant near 18 leagues This day at 11 a Clock I anchored in the Road in seven fathom water sandy Ground about a mile from the shore the Northernmost point of the Road bearing N. N. W. half a point to the West and the Southern point of the Road bearing South-east
from me distant about a mile and an half there are craggy Rocks to the South of the Road on the shore side but to the North a low sandy shore the Road is on the North-west and by West part of the Island in a small sandy Bay there 's the Salt-pond a bow 's shot from the Sea in the low flat Land fresh water is very scarce here I went ashore presently after I had anchored and found a heap of Salt of about 20 Tuns I got aboard again immediately and sent the Long-boat ashore which brought off 2 Tuns and ½ the Suff came in so much that no more could be got off we halled the Seyne here and caught abundance of good Mullets with some Cavalle and silver Fish one of the Islanders a Negro came aboard whom I sent ashore to tell the People that if they brought down some Cattle I would buy some of them I rode here all Night fair Weather the Wind Easterly This side of the Island is dry land without wood here are many Goats and Guinea Hens Friday October 29. fair Weather the wind at NE. a fine gale this Morning I sent my Boat ashore and bought of the Islanders some Goats at ½ a piece of Eight per Head and 8 Cows excellent good meat at 6 pieces of Eight a Cow giving the skins again my men caught a great many Fish with the Seyne which this day we split and laid in pickle four Hours then dried them to keep which they will a long time in any Climate as I have experienced in other Voyages and are very good Victuals at Sea I made what dispatch I could to be gone for St. Jago Island This day in the forenoon a Ship passed by to the Westward on the South side of the Isle and in the afternoon we saw several Ships coming from the Northward which were the Portuguese Fleet bound for Brazil they halled into Port Praya in the Isle of St. Jago to water this night I weighed and stood away at twelve a Clock South-south-west for Port Praya with the Pink in Company I touched at the Isle of May for Salt which I knew would be a great help to get Provisions in the Voyage Saturday October 30. fair wind at North-east and by North a fresh gale This Morning I steered South-west for the South side of St. Jago where is the Road of Port Praya lying near South-west from the Road of the Isle of May and distant nine Leagues This day at 12 a Clock I cast my best Bower-anchor in Port Praya Road in 10 fathom rough Ground the East Point bore East of me and the West Point about West-south-west about half a mile off I could not go into the best of the Road the Portuguese Fleet of about thirty six Sail riding in it the Great Padre Eternel Admiral bound for Brazil is a very great Ship and well built they say she is in Burthen 1700 Tuns she hath Ports for three Tier of Guns flush but now she had but eighty and poorly mann'd with Seamen and so were all the rest six Frigats might have taken most of the Fleet. At my coming in to Anchor the Admiral saluted me with seven Guns I thanked him with as many Captain Francis Wilksheir in the Jerusalem fired five I returned him three so did the Reer-Admiral and I return'd the Complement in the like number several of the Fleet fired three whom I answer'd in conclusion with three for all I rode on the broad side of the Admiral and saluted the Fort with five Guns which return'd three then I sent my Lieutenant ashore to ask leave of the Governour to water which he granted forthwith my Coopers got the Cask ready and this Evening put one boat 's lading aboard Sunday Octobor 31. fair Weather the wind at North-east a fine gale This Morning Don Carolus went ashore to Pryam with much ado I got off a boats lading of Water for the Portuguese boats were filling too and a great many Soldiers at the watering place snatch'd some of our mens Hats off and run away wherefore I would not let my men go any more this day for fear of quarreling This Bay of Port Praya as they call it is no Port but a fine round Bay having high steep Cliffs on the East side and in the bottom a steep Hill where the Castle is that hath but four Guns and is of no force there is a small Fort on the top of a Hill on the East side which hath three Guns On the North-west part of the Bay the shore is gravelly and sandy and there 's a Grove of Coco-nut trees A fresh water Rivulet runs down into the Valley and thence through the Sand soaks into the Sea this Water is in great quantity very good and keeps well at Sea to the west part of this Bay lies a small Island close on the shore which has Grass on it that may be cut off for Cattle which I did this Road is no safeguard for Shipping for a Man of War may take any Ship out of the Bay without receiving any damage from the Forts ashore and with Fire-Ships a whole Fleet may be spoiled at pleasure for it 's a fresh gale every day and there 's but two points of Land by which a man may fetch into any part of the Bay also the Bay lies open to the Sea from the East Southerly to the W. S. W. I called for my Lieutenants and Master and acquainted them that I had Orders to sail from thence to the Coast of America to the Southward of the River of Plate to the streights of Magellan through which we were to pass into the South Seas and that we must shape our Course to make the shortest way of it and be careful to keep Easterly enough of it to weather the shoals of Brazil called the Abroholls lying in and about eighteen degrees of Southerly Latitude for the Wind blows for the most part thereabouts between the Latitude of ten South and the Latitude of twenty South at East by South and East South-east fresh gales whilst this pass'd in came the Master and told me all things were stowed and the Wind at E. b. N. fresh I concluded with him that our best Course at present would be South and by East and as we got Southerly and the Wind grew large we might alter our Course when we would we steered a Point or two from the Wind that the Ship might have fresh way through the Sea I ordered my Master to steer South and by East by the Compass and my Lieutenant to call all hands to Prayer read Service and beg'd of God Almighty a prosperous Voyage continuance in Health and love to one another and that we might prosper in this Vndertaking c. Instructions for Mr. Humphrey Fleming Commander of his Majesty's hired Pink the Batchelour By vertue of an Order from His Royal Highness dated the twenty ninth day of August 1669. to me directed YOU are hereby
sometimes one way sometimes another Wind at South-west and by South a small gale I hoisted out my Boat and sounded but no ground at 140 Fathoms I tried the Current with my Boat but found little or none worth notice the Sea ripled in many places I sounded on them but no ground at 108 Fathom several Beds of Sea-weed driving to and fro in knots these Weeds are five or six Fathom long in strings with broad leaves on them of a brown colour at the root hangs a Clod or Rock of 2 or 3 pound weight several Sea-Fowls flying and swimming near the Ship being quite clam my Men kill'd some of them with their Birding-pieces for they were very tame not moving at the report of of a Gun they are very like to Sea-Gulls and good meet some Seals and Whales seen February 5. were seen several beds of Rock-weed and Sea-Fowls much like Gannets some black others white pied and grey small Seal-fishes like so many Dogs for their Heads resemble Bull-dogs which they 'l keep above Water a long time and look at the Ship they are very nimble at diving and skipping out of the Water This Afternoon at seven a Clock I was in the Latitude of 41 degrees South and Longitude West from the Lizard of England 52 deg and 50 min. and in Meridian distance from the Lizard 895 Leagues Meridian distance from Port Praya 616 Leagues Longitude from Port Praya West 36 d. 34 m. This Night I advised with Don Carolus where it would be best for us to hale in with the Land in what Latitude or at what Cape or Harbour on this Coast of America being now to the South-ward of the River of Plate and according to my Instructions before the Coast to be discover'd and a Trade set on foot with the Natives He told me I might do what I would for he did not understand the Coast nor where 't was inhabited 't was his whole Discourse in the Voyage that he had been here in a Galley and knew all the Coasts from the River of Plate to the Streights and thorow the Streights all along the West Coast to Baldavia and Lima being arrived here as far as I can perceive by him he knows nothing of the matter nor any thing appertaining to Navigation all I can fancy of him is that he may have liv'd with a West Indian Governour whom he has heard talk of these Parts February 8. at 7 a Clock this Afternoon the Wind came to the West South-west a stiff gale I stood to the Southward much Rock-weed pass'd by the Ship to day and several Sea-Fowls seen very cold for the Season being Summer which Don Carolus began to complain of and told me he did not think we should have come so far Southerly I shew'd him by my Plates how far we were to go through the Streights and along the West Coast he said the Spaniards went to Chile a nearer way I answer'd 't was into the River of Plate and over Land which we could not do My Company are all in good health but some of a puny Race grow weak in being so long on Shipboard I give them Vinegar once a Week which is very good to prevent the Scurvy in their Mouths also I order'd every Man to wash his Mouth Face and Hands before the receive his daily Allowance of Bread and appointed one Man to see it performed if any neglected it the Steward kept their Allowance for one day likewise every Man is commanded to keep himself clean and free from Lice upon forfeiture of his daily Allowance to the Party accusing him by these means the Ship is kept neat sweet and clean tho' the dirty foggy Weather is a great Enemy to this Discipline February 19. I sounded often to day and had fifty and fifty three Fathom dark black Sand wth some bright fine Sand in it Beds of Rock-weed Seals and Porpoises such as are in the European Seas seen to day three Whales many Fowls flying about and some Penguins in the Sea swimming near the Ships at 2 a Clock in the Afternoon the Wind was at E. b. S. a stout gale and a great Sea I stood to the Southward close haled under my Courses the Pink half a Mile to Wind-ward of me udner her's she out-sails us now it blows and puts us past our Top-fails and steers along with us with only her Main-sail set the Sea runs lofty Monday February 21. At a quarter of an hour past eight this Morning I saw the Land bearing West of me and distant about 4 Leagues I sounded and had 21 Fathom small Stones and Sand still I stood in West by my Compass The Land makes but an ordinary heighth towards the Sea side but farther up round high Hills and looks reddish the Northermost Land I could see which was Cape Blanco bore North-north-west of me about two Leagues and the Southermost Land at the face of the Cape The Land trented away to te Southward of me Southwesterly of an ordinary height by the Water side but up in the Land are Hills like Tables on the top a little higher than the rest the Land makes in Hills and Valleys all along like Downs of an ordinary heighth at nine a Clock this Morning I braced the Head-sails to the Mast and lay so half an hour till the Fog cleared up that I might make the Land plainly being within five miles of the shore side which made a kind of Bay breached on the shore I sounded and at 17 Fathom had rough ground with some small stones drawn up in the Tallow of the Lead which was dinted by Rocks between nine and ten a Clock there was a fine clear by which I saw the Land very plainly it look'd reddish like seared Grass no Woods to be seen on any of the Hills or Valleys but all as bare as the Grass-Downs in England I durst not send my Boat a-shore for fear of losing her in the Fog or being sunk at the shore whereon the Sea breaks very much the Wind was at North and by East a fresh gale blew almost along the shore and being out but 24 hours before made the Sea run high the Land lies by the Sea-side South-south-west and North-north-east as far as I could see to the Southward no fire or smoak to be see upon the Land Course made true after several Courses from yesterday Noon till to day at nine a Clock when I was 3 Leagues off the Land true Course is West 6 d. 50 m. Northerly distance sailed fifty miles seven tenths Departure West 50 miles difference of Longitude West 1 d. 15 m. difference of Latitude North 0d 6 m. Latitude by account is 47 d. 14 m. South no Observation this three days being foggy Weather Meridian distance from the Lizard West 1014 League 1 mile 7 tenths Longitude at 9 a Clock from the Lizard West 61 d. 56 m. 6 tenths Longitude from Port Praya West 44 deg 38 m. 5 tenths Meridian distance from Port Praya West
735 Leagues 1 mile 5 tenths Variation of the Compass Easterly 18 Degrees I concluded we had shot past Port Desier Harbour in the Fog for the Islands and Rocks which we saw were Penguin and other Isles lying about it which lies to the Southward of the Harbour of Port Desier Many Seals Penguins pied Porpoises and several Sea Fowls c. seen to day Thursday Febr. 24. Hasey Weather Wind at West-north-west a fresh gale I sent Men up to the Top-mast-head to look abroad this Morning no sight of the Pink I judge she must be in Port Desier I weighed about 8 a Clock this Morning and stood to the Northward with my Ship I went in my Pinnace along the shore to the Northward whilst the Ship sail'd in the Offing about two Leagues from the shore the Shore-side is in Beaches and scatter'd Rocks in many places the Tide of Flood was with us at the North-end of Seals Bay lies a small rocky Island copling up like a Haycock It is cover'd with grey-colour'd Fowls Dung a very strong Tide runs here between the Island and the Main 't is a little more than a Cables length from the Point of the Main there 's a great many broken Rocks about it by the Sea-side here the main Land is low and sandy up the Country in large Downs and Hills without Wood or fresh Water any where On this Island are abundance of Seals and Sea Fowls we gave it the name of Tomahauke Island from an Indian Club lost here called by the Caribbe-Indians at Surinam a Temahauke 't is all a craggy Rock a little bigger than Seal-Island and is eight Leagues to the North-north-east distant from it to the Northwest of this Island is a deep rounding Bay called in the Charts Spiring's Bay wherein lie three small Islands of an indifferent height the Land in the Country over this Bay is large high Hills Rocks lie in the North part of the Bay I cross'd it in the Pinnace amd sounded as I went over and had 21 Fathom rough ground in the mid-way 't is seven Miles broad and near 3 Leagues deep it rounds with a turning up to the North-northwest ward behind a Point farther than I saw upon which rounding Point stand black Rocks which make like a ragged Building and a Tower in it at my coming in with the Land I sail'd close under this shoar with my Boat the shore is steep black Rocks and low Bays with Pebble-stones and sandy Beaches green Grass on the Hills no Wood nor fresh Water to be seen at the North-east Point of this Spiring's-Bay the Land makes out full like a foreland a fair high Land in large plain Hills with sandy small Bays at the face of this Foreland lie six rocky Islands one is a Musket-shot off the Main the rest farther off the outwardmost is the biggest a Mile from the Point of the Main and is called Penguin-Island it is indifferent high at the ends and low in the middle 't is near three quarters of a Mile long North-north-east and South-south-west and near half a Mile broad East and West it is all craggy Rocks except in the lowest part of the middle which is gravelly and in the Summer time had a little green Grass the great black Gannets lay their Eggs here and the Penguins all over the Island upon and under the Rocks in Holes Seals lie all about the sides on the tops of the highest Rocks and in the middle of it the number of Seals Penguins and Sea-Fowl upon these Islands is alsmost incredible to them that never saw them for the multitude of each Creature that 's there daily is numberless the Six Islands are full of Seals but the Penguins frequent the biggest most I put a-shore at one of them and took into my Boat three hundred Penguins in less than half an hour and could have taken three thousand in the time if my Boat would have carried 'em for 't is but driving 'em in flocks to the shore by the Boats side where two or three Men knock them on the head with short Truncheons and the rest heave them into the Boat the Seals will run over a Man if he does not avoid 'em mean time the Ship was standing to the Northward about 2 Leagues off many broken Rocks and foul ground lie among these Islands and without the Point of the outermost it makes a great ripling which is the strength of the Tide reversed from the Islands aginst the other Tide to the Northward of these Islands is a Bay four Leagues long and a League and half deep in the Northwest thereof lies the Harbour of Port Desier which we could see from Penguin Island 's bearing North-north-west from Penguin Island distant about 3 Leagues about the middle of this Bay are steep white Cliffs near two miles long the upper part of the Cliff has black streaks down a fourth part caused by the Water draining down on it the Land is plain on the top of these Cliffs but further into the Country high rounding Hills and Downs and toward the Water-side low on the South part of the Bay are craggy Rocks on the Main like great Walls near the Sea there 's a sandy Cove to hale a Boat up in foul Weather the Cove is just under these wall-like Rocks Saturday Feb. 26. Fair Weather the Wind at West a stiff gale I kept a Light out all Night that the Pink might see if she came along the first part of the Night a great Fire was made on the shore for the same purpose Cold weather this Morning at 7 a Clock I manned both my Boats and into the Herbour the Ship rode moored at the Harbour-mouth within the Muscle-bank in six Fathom at low Water I sent my Men upon the Hills on the North shore to look abroad for the Pink and make a Fire in the dry Grass that she might see the smoak if she were thereabouts but they could not see her I sounded the Harbour in many places to day at low Water and found it a very good one for great Ships to ride in provided they have good Cables and Anchros I searched the shore but found no Wood and very little fresh Water on the hilly and large Downs very few Bushes but dry long Grass growing in tufts and knots the Soil is gravelly and dry in some Valleys well mixt with black mould no People fire or smoak but our own to be seen I saw several places where they had lain behind Bushes upon Grass which they had plucked up and that they had made small sires and roasted Lumpets and Muscles there lay Wooll Feathers bones of Beasts and shivers of Flints I went to a Flag which I left on a Hill yesterday with Beads at it but finding no body had been at it let it stand no Beasts seen any where except two Hares running over the Hills this day we were taken up with viewing the Harbour so that we did not advance above a mile and
thousands fourteen foot long the common sort are about five foot and all very fat they 'l gape at you when you come to them as if they would devour you and 't is labour enough for two Men to kill one of the great ones with a Hand-spike which is the best Weapon for that purpose Saturday March 5. Fair Weather Wind at South-west a fine gale This Morning we went ashore to flay some Seals and cut the Bodies in good handsom pieces and salted it up well in Bulk on Deal-boards ashore that the blood might drain from it the Meat looks as well and as white as Lamb and is very good Victuals now but when 't is a little salt it will eat much better those we dress'd were all young Seals for they sucked their Dams who as soon as they come ashore bleat immediatly come her young ones and bleat about her like Lambs and suck her one old Female suckles four or five and beats away other young ones that come near whence I believe they have four or five at a time the young ones which we killed and eat were as big as a midling Dog we cut the fat off of the Great ones and made Oil of it for the Lamps and other uses in the Ship the Oil of the young ones we fried and eat with our Provisions it is very sweet and good to fry any Food with our Men will have it to be as good as Olive Oil most of my Men to day gathered of those green Pease-leaves and other Herbs for Sallads which some eat raw some boiled it is refreshing to their Bodies Sunday March 6. Blowing Weather Wind at West This day after Prayers I went ashore on the South-side of the River and travelled eight miles into the Land South-west and by West having twelve armed Men with me my Lieutenant went up the River in the Boat nine or ten miles to see for People that way my other Lieutenant went on the North-side with ten armed Men to see for People and view the Land I found in my Travels one of those great Beasts like a Deer dead and whole the Vermin had not touched him all his Back had pretty long Wooll of the colour of dried Rose-leaves and down his sides his Belly white Wooll he was as big as a small Colt he had a long Neck a Head like a Sheep so was his Mouth and Ears his Legs very long and Cloven-footed like a Deer a short bushy Tail of a reddish colour no Horns nor ever had any it was a Male I believe these Beasts are Peruvian Sheep Guianacoes I had his Paunch opened and searched for the Bezoar-stone in it and in the Pipe to the Stomach I turned them inside outward but found none I had heard West-Indian Spaniards say that they have taken the Bezoar-stone of Guianacoes and therefore opened this which I take to be the same Beast In travelling to day I saw several herds of them sometimes ten thirty or forty together I could not get near enough to shoot at them they neigh like young Horses and so wander away I saw nine Ostriches but they would not suffer me to come within shot of them I let the Greyhound at them but they out-run him up the Hills we saw a Fox a wild Dog and five or six Hares of which the Greyhound killed one they are shaped like English Hares and much larger and instead of a Tail have a little stub about an inch long without Hair on it they have holes in the ground like Coneys no Woods to be seen only a few Bushes like White-Thorns The Land is dry of a sandy gravelly Soil in large rounding Hills not very high but in Downs and Valleys bearing nothing but Grass here and there are gullies of fresh Water in the Valleys which is made in the Winter-time when the Snow dissolves I saw several places of salt Water in the Land which is occasioned by the natural saltness of the Earth here are no Fruits nor Herbs When I was at the farthest and on a Hill I could not see any sign of People or Woods but still Hills and Valleys as far as we could descry no Birds to be seen but Kites which are like those in Europe and small Birds like Sparrows and Linnets some Flies and Humble-bees here we saw some small four-footed Animals running in the Grass speckled-Grey shaped like a small Creature in England called an Eft Newt or Lizard no Adder nor Snake nor any venomous Creature Cattle would live here very well such as Horses Cows Sheep Goats c. Evening growing upon us I returned to the Ship and 't was within Night when we got aboard our Boat and ten a Clock when we entered the Ship I found on Board my Lieutenant that went up the River but they which went on the North-side were not come back up the River they saw five small Islands which had Sea-fowls on them and Bushes for fewel the River grows broader upwards and has several Rocks in it on the shoar they saw Guianacoes Ostriches and Hares no People Fire or Smoak they saw where People had been and Fires made and Muscles and Lumpets roasted no fresh Water nor Wood nor any Metal or Mineral the Land hilly with Grass on it At twelve a Clock to Night those that went on the North-side came aboard they had been about eight miles into the Land North-west and saw no People but found where People had been and made Fires in the Grass and Grass laid to fire the Bushes also where some had lain on open places and set little Bushes in Half-moons to shelter them from the Weather on the top of a Hill they made a fire with Grass to see if any would answer them they sat down by it all day but could see none made any where else the Land is in rounding large Hills not very high but like Downs as the Coast of Yorkshire about Burlington no Woods nor Trees seen nor fresh Water here and there a Bush growing in a Valley indifferent good Grass the Soil gravelly and sandy and some ridges of Rocks they saw Guianacoes Ostriches Hares and Kites several little Creatures like Efts no kind of Fruit or Berry Mineral or Metal I charged them as they travelled in any Gullies where Water had run to search for grains of Gold or other Metal c. for Gold is found in grains in such Gullies and much Gold is found in the Land on the other side not two hundred Leagues distant from us much Salt-peter hangs on the Earth where Water has been in a kind of Flower the plashes of Water they met with were as salt as Brine which the Earth made I saw Smelts here eighteen Inches long lying dead on the Shore but hitherto have not seen one Oyster or other shell-Fish Crawfish Lobster or Crab though 't is possible the place may have 'em all Whilst we were standing by the Water-side a Seal chased on shore a Fish as large as a Mackrel
the foot of the Cross is in is always very visible when the Crosiers are above the Horizon as they are alway here in these Latitudes The Heavens in this South Hemisphere are as the Heavens in the North Hemisphere but no Stars within eighteen degrees of the Pole fit for Observation no Pole-star as the Star in the Tail of the little Bear is in the North the Air cold to Night but very healthy for stirring Men I have not had my Finger ached as yet a Man hath an excellent stomach here I can eat Foxes and Kites as savourily as if it were Mutton every Fox and Kite as we kill we eat which is ever now and then one killed Nothing comes amiss to our stomachs not one Man complains of cold in his Head or of Coughs Young Men well grown and of good shape are most fit for this Country it being a dry and an hungry Air and Provisions to be got with pains The Ostriches are nothing so big as the Ostriches in Barbary nor of the Colour nor Feather these are grey on the Back and shaggy Feathers of no use and the Feathers on their Bellies are whire they have long Legs and small Wings they cannot fly they have a long Neck and a small Head and beaked near like a Goose they are much like a great Turky-cock and good lean dry Meat and sweet to Night I came aboard it blew fresh at west Wednesday June 22. Wind at West-north-west a stout gale This day I went ashore on the East-side saw no People this day Mr. John Wood went ashore on the West side and three Men with him they were armed they travelled into the Land West and by North about four miles where they saw seven People of the Country on a Hill making a noise and wafting them to the Ship Our Men went up the rise of the Hill to them three of the Indian Men came to Mr. Wood with their Bows and Arrows in their Hands and a loose skin about their Bodies and a Furr-skin about their Heads and pieces of skins about their Feet and all the other parts of their bodies naked they were painted red and white on their Faces they would not come so near as to let our Men touch them but slepped back as you moved forward they continuing their noise and wafting with their Hands towards the Ship and and kept talking but no Man could understand them they repeated Ozse Ozse very often they have an harsh Speech and speak in the Throat they received any thing that you cast to them on the ground Mr. Wood gave them a Knife and a Shas●● and a Neckcloath and a bottle of Brandy they would not drink Mr. Wood could not perceive any Bracelets they had or any thing about them save their Skin they are people of a middle stature and well-shaped tawny Olive-colour'd black Hair not very long they seem to be of a rude behaviour for they returned nothing for what they received nor took no notice of any thing the rest of their Company stayed at the Hill they can endure much cold for their Legs Buttocks and lower parts are naked Mr. Wood was taller than any of them and he judged the eldest of the three to be upwards of forty years old the other thirty They seemed to be very fearful they took their own time and went away into the Land Mr. Wood returned aboard and acquainted me with what he had seen This Night we saw a Fire in the Hills It blew hard to Night at West They have small Dogs with them they would not have come near our People if they had not fallen accidentally in the Hills and Valleys with them I have thought that they have heard of the cruel dealings of the Spaniards and dare not trust us Saturday July 2. Wind at West a fine gale I went a-shore on the East-side we killed a great Guianacoe with the Greyhound I looked in his Paunch for the Bezoar-stone but found nothing I travelled to and fro but saw no people I saw where People had made earthen Pots and had glased them for there lay some of their stuff run together at Night I went aboard Sunday July 3. Wind at South close Weather The Guianacoe weighed cleaved in his Quarters two hundred and fifty pounds neat He served all the Company for a days Flesh and is good Meat Tuesday July 12. Close Weather and little Wind at North and by West I went up to the head of the Harbour but saw no People There is in the Fullers-Earth Cliffs at the head of the Harbour a Vein made like rotten Ising-glass I took some out but cannot find it good for any thing I digged in the Cliff but saw nothing to be taken notice of I saw in two places pieces of floor Timbers of a Ship they have laid a long time rotting We saw that the biggest of these Bushes here have been cut down by some Christian People I saw wooden Plates and a piece of Cork and a piece of an old Oar some Christian Ship had been here formerly I lay ashore to Night Sunday July 31. Fair Weather Wind at South-west a stiff gale The Weather as cold as it is in England in the height of Winter and the Air rather sharper and dryer I have now twelve Men lame with the cold and their Legs and Thighs are turned as black as a black Hat in spots the cold having chilled the Blood yet they use bathing and stuping those places and all that they can to prevent it but it rather encreaseth on them than otherwise These are such people as I could not make stir by an meyans they that stir are as well as any Men in the World can be Tuesday August 2. Close Weather Wind at South-west a gale and cold Air. We fall on fitting of our Rigging and getting the Ship fit Here are hundreds of Guianacoes in companies near the Water-side my Greyhound is lame so that I cannot make her run also here are many Ostriches together with many green plovers at the Watercr-side and some Swans but not full so large as ours They are white save a black Head and half the Neck and Legs black Here are some white Geese as European geese the brant-Geese are some whith some black and grey The Mallards and Ducks are grey and the Teals are grey Tuesday August 16. Close Weather Wind at West and at North-west a fine gale I sent the Boat for Water to a Swash on the East-side two of my Men saw two of the People of the Country on the East-side behind a Bush my Men went toward them they went away and left a bundle of Skins under the Bush my Men made signs to speak with them but they would not stay m● Men did not go after them but sat down the● would not stay they were but of a middle st●ture my Men brought the Bundle aboard to shew it to me and two mungrel Dogs which were coupled together I opened the Bundle and it
not come near it nor meddle with it The People of the Country have made in a Valley the form of the Ship in Earth and Bushes and stuck up pieces of sticks for Masts and redded the Bushes all over with red Earth the Model I imagine is to record our Ship for they cannot have any Records but by imitation This Fancy we let alone untouched only I laid a string or two of Beads on it and came away close Weather to Night These People must certainly have received some injury in former times from some People that have been here in Shipping otherwise they would come in sight of us or else they have heard of the cruel dealings of the Spaniards toward the Indians where they lived near I have used all endeavours possibly by fair means to have Conference with them but all is in vain Tuesday October 11. The Wind at West-south-west a stout gale very cold Hail and sleety Snow to day Our Men are all in good health and are lusty and fat those wihch had the Scurvy are got very well with eating of fresh Meat and such green Herbs as they can get on the shore as green Pease-leaves and such trade they mince it fry it with Eggs and Seal-oil and it hath raised every Man in as good health as they were at our coming out of England We fare very well and have great plenty of good Provisions Here is Provision enough of Seals and Penguins if salt be plenty to lade Ships I can confidently say that on the Island of Penguins there are more Seals and Penguins at this present than three hundred Tuns of Cask can hold when dressed and salted besides what are going off and coming on if any Men should have occasion for provisions of Flesh If they have Salt here they may furnish themselves with what quantity shall seem fit for them and I can assure them it will last four Months sweet if not longer if care be taken in bleeding and dressing and salting as I have prescribed before the Salt may also be had at Saint Julian's Salt-pond in Summer-time also I believe that Salt may be made at Port Desier in the Summer-time for here is some dried Salt on the holes of the Rocks Here are several Flats where Men may make Pits and let in Salt-water and so make Salt as I have seen in other places The Penguin is a Fowl that lives by catching and eating of Fish which he dives for and is very nimble in the Water he is as big as a brant-goose and weighs near about eight pounds they have no Wings but flat stumps like Fins their Coat is a downy stumped Feather they are blackish grey on the Backs and Heads and white about their Necks and down their Bellies they are short legged like a Goose and stand upright like little Children in white Aprons in companies together they are full-necked and headed and beaked like a Crow only the point of their Bill turns down a little they will bite hard but they are very tame and will drive in herds to your Boats-side like Sheep and there you may knock them on the head all one after another they will not make any great hast away Here are a great many Sea-Pies and Ducks and Ox-Birds and Sea-Mews and Gulls and white Sea-Pigeons and white-breasted Divers and Dobchicks October 13. I weighed and sailed out of Port Desier standing Southward Octob. 16. I was in Lat. 49 d. 8 m. South Octob. 19. I passed by the Cape called Beachy-Head by our Men and the Hill of St. Ives Lat 50 d. 10 m. The Compass has variation 16 d. 37 m. Easterly The Land here makes in a Bay where the River of St. Cruce goes in Octob. 21. We passed by Cape Fair-weather in 51 d. 30 m. South-Lat Here goes on the River of Gallegoes Octob. 22. We came to Cape Virgin-Mary at the entrance of the Streight of Magellan Cape Virgin-Mary at the North-entrance lies in the Latitude of 52 d. 26 m. And in Longitude from the Lizard in England West 65 d. 42 m. Meridian distance form the Lizard in Leagues West 1062. Leagues Variation of the Compass here I find to be Easterly 17 Degrees Here is Anchoring all about this Part of the Streights in the fair way from Cape Virgin-Mary till you come into the Narrow I did not find much Tide any where hereabout but in the Narrow and there the Tide runs stronger than it does in the Hope a good matter the floud Tide sets into the Streights and the Ebb sets out it keepeth its course as on other Coasts it is six hours Floud and two hours Ebb it riseth and falls near four Fathom perpendicular it is an high Water here on the change day of the Moon at eleven of the Clock as far as I could perceive Many beds of Rock-weed are driving to and fro here This day at two of the Clock I was a-breast of Point Possession I steered from thence West-north-west about two Leagues and then West and West-south-west and South-west and by South rounding by the North-shore As I shoaled my soundings I had 22 and 18 and 16 and 12 and 9 Fathoms sandy and sometimes gravelly Ground and pebble Stones I sailed rounding the shore being unacquainted and could not tell certainly where the Narrow lay for it was shut in one Land with the other so as I could not see the opening I was open of the Narrow at five a Clock having a fine gale at North-north-east I steered in South-west and by South into the chops of it but could not get past a League into it the Tide being bent out and run so strong as I could not stem it I was in danger of running the Ship against steep Rocks which lie in the North-side the taking a shear with the Tide and the Wind was a fresh gale at North-north-east There grew long Rock-weed on the Rocks I went and sounded over them and had five foot Water on them and fourteen Fathom by the side of them next the Channel they come trenting from the point of the Narrow of the North-side a mile off At six of the Clock the Wind came to the North at eight of the Clock it came to the North-west it fell very dark and rained much I was forced to fall back again out of the Narrow as well as I could the shore I could not see it was so dark it fell a flat Calm I finding twenty five Fathom Water pebble Stones and oary I anchored and rode all Night little Wind at South-west and dark It is eight Leagues from the first Narrow to the second and something better the Course from one to the other is West and by South and East and by North. This Reach from the first Narrow to the second is seven Leagues broad from the North-shore to the South-shore it shews like a little Sea when one comes into it for we could not see to the second Narrow till I had sailed therein three
this Low-land In this Valley there runs a fresh Water-River I went it with my Boat It is but shallow at low Water hardly Water enough for my Boat Here I saw several Arbors of the Indians making but no People This River is a very convenient place to lay Shallops or such like small Vessels in it they may go into it at high Water for the Tide riseth here eight or nine feet this River I called by the name of Batchelor's River Before the mouth of this River in the Streights there is good anchoring in nine or ten or twelve Fathom Water sandy Ground a fair birth off the Shore the Tide runs but ordinary and the Floud-tide comes from the Westward and the Tide that comes out of St. Jerom's Channel makes a ripling with the Tide that comes along the stream of the Streight I called this Road that is before Batchelor's-River York-Road This is a good place to ride in with Westerly Winds for here cannot go any great Sea neither shall a Man be embayed that if a Cable give way he may have the Streight open to carry it away for the Westerly Winds are the greatest Winds that blow here by the Trees for they all stoop to these Winds and lean to the Easterward and the West-side of all the Trees that stand open are made flat with the Winds the tops of the Mountains look to the Eastward the Easterly Winds seldom blow strong here as to what I have observed By the Shore-side which lies open to the East the Grass grows down to the Water-side and they are the greener Shores and the Trees are streight and tall on the East-side of the Hills but on the West-shores the Grass and Trees are much weather-beaten worn away and crippled and the Shore-sides much tewed with the surge of the Waters At Cape Quad the Lands shut one with the other as if there were no farther passage but as you make nearer to it you will see the opening more and more as the Streight rounds there more to the Northward again Cape Quad is on the North-shore and it is a steep up Cape of a rocky greyish Face of a good height before one comes at it it shews like a great building of a Castle for it points off with a Race from the other Mountains so much into the Channel of the Streight that it makes shutting in against the South-land and maketh an Elbow in the Streight the Streight is not past four miles broad here from shore to shore and the Land is steep too on both sides and rocky the Mountains high on both Shores and craggy barren Rocks some Trees and Bushes growing here and much Snow on the Mountains on both sides Opposite to Cape Quad on the South-side there is a fine large Bay which is called Rider's Bay I did not go into it if there be Anchoring in it it is a fair Road for any Winds the Water is very deep here in the Channel no Ground at one hundred Fathom this part of the Streights from Point Passage to Cape Quad is the most crooked part of all the Streight therefore I called this Crooked-Reach Here are two small Islands in the North-shore to the Eastward of Cape Quad. November 14. This Morning I was a-brest of Cape-Munday so I called it it being a Cape on the South-side and is distant from Cape de Quad about thirteen Leagues the Streight here is about four miles broad and the North-shore makes into the Land with great sounds and broken Islands the Land on both Shores is high rocky Hills and barren very little Wood or Grass growing on them Here at Cape Munday the Streight grows broader and broader to the Westward but keeps all one Course North-west and by West to Cape Upright which is a steep upright Cliff on the South-side and it is distant from Cape Munday four Leagues Here the Streight inclines to the Westward near half-a Point the Streight lies from Cape Munday West-north-west half a Point Northerly right out into the South-Sea if you be in the middle of the Channel or nigh the North-shore I find little or no Tide to run here or Current no Ground in the Channel at two hundred Fathom a Musket shot off the Shore on either side Here run into the South-shore many Sounds and Coves I have sailed fair along by the South-shore all this day for the North-shore makes in broken Islands and Sounds Here lie all along the South-shore several small Islands but no danger for they are all steep too the Streight is a very fair Channel to sail throughout This day at Noon I was a-breast of an Island which lies on the North-side of the Streight I called it Westminster-Island there lie a great many Islands between that and the North-shore and to the Eastward and Westward as also some broken Ground and Rocks lie about it These Islands I called The Lawyers and this I sland which I called Westminster-Island is an high rocky Island shewing like Westminster-Hall the Streight is five Leagues broad between Westminster-Island and the South-shore but between that and the North-shore there are many rocky Islands and broken Ground The Streight lies from Cape Munday to Cape Desseada West-north-west and East-south-east half a point Northerly and half a point Southerly nearest and they are distant from one another near fifteen Leagues from Cape Quad to Cape Desseada it is about twenty eight Leagues and the Streight lies near North-west and by West from Cape Quad into the South-Sea and near in one Reach which I called Long-Reach and some of my Company called it Long-Lane This part may properly be called the Streights for it is high Land all the way on both Shores and barren Rocks with Snow on them and indeed from Cape Quad into the South-Sea I called this Land South-Desolation it being so desolate Land to behold Cape Desseada lies in the Latitude of 53 d. 10 m. South In Longitude West from the Lizard of England 72 d. 56 m. And in Meridian distance 1149. The Compass hath 14 d. 10 m. Variation Easterly here Cape Piller lies in the Latitude of 53 d. 5 m. In Longitude West from the Lizard of England 72 d. 49 m. And in Meridian distance 1148. Leagues West I make the whole length of the Streights of Magellan from Cape Virgin-Mary to Cape Desseada with every Reach and turning to be one hundred and sixteen Leagues and so much I sailed from the one Sea to the other according to my estimation The best Land-fall in my Opinion is to make the face of Cape Desseada for to come out of the South-Sea to go into the Streight of Magellan they lie in East and West at the first till you come a-brest of Cape-Pillar then the Course is South-east and by East nearest Be careful to keep the South-shore in fair view for the North-shore is broken Islands and Sounds that a Man may mistake the right Channel or Streight and steer up into one of them
do not make any mention of the several Islands that lie on it but lay it down all along to be a streight Coast the Latitude of most places are laid down very near as what I have found Here are many Islands adjacent on the Coasts more Southerly in the Latitude of forty five and an half but none are laid down December 15. Don Carlos was put a-shore and carried with him a Sword and a Case of Pistols and his best Apparel and a Bag with his Beads and Knives together with Scissars Looking-glasses Combs Rings Pipes Jews-harps Bells and Tobacco all which things he had of me to give to the Natives At seven of the Clock Signior Carlos was set a-shore on the South-side of the Harbour of Baldavia without the Mouth of it a Mile in a small sandy Bay about two miles within Point Gallere between the Point and the Mouth of the Harbour When he was a-shore he took his leave of my Lieutenant and bad him go aboard and look out for his Fire in the Night He went from the Boat along the Sea-side in the path toward the Harbour's Mouth the Men in the Boat saw him go along for the distance of quarter of a Mile till he turned behind a point of Rocks out of sight The Shore-side is low and sandy and some scattered Rocks lie in it the Land riseth trenting to large Hills the land is all woody and very thick that there is travelling but by the Water-side My Lieutenant went ashore to the edg of the Woods and gathered several green Apples off the Trees for there grow Apple-trees on the Shore-side much like our European Winter-Fruit the Apples are bigger than Walnuts with their shells on whether these Trees were planted by the Spaniards or grow naturally in the Country I cannot tell I do not find any Current or Tide to set on this Coast that is any way prejudicial to Navigation neither do I find the Winds to blow Trade but they are veerable and are given to blow hard on the Western Quarter and rain much The Mouth of the Harbour of Baldevia on the Coast of Chile in the South-Sea lieth in the Latitude of 39 d. 56 m. South And in Longitude West from the Lizard of England 70 d. 19 m. And in Longitude East from Cape-pillar 2 d. 41 m. And in Meridian distance from Cape-pillar East 41 leag 2 mil. ● 10. the Account I make by my sailing from the Meridian of the Lizard according to my daily Account of my Ships way I do not make any Account of plain Sailing to be fit for Seamen to observe but the best Navigation is by Mercator sailing according to the Circle of the Globe which I ever sailed by and keep my Account of Easting and Westing by Longitude which is the best and most certain Sailing to give the true description of the Globe I have noted down the Meridian distance I made daily whereby sush Navigators and Seamen as know better may have that to give them the knowledge of the distances of Places according to their Understanding Most of our Navigators in this Age sail by the Plain Chart and keep their Accounts of the Ships way accordingly although they sail near the Poles which is the greatest Errour that can be committed for they cannot tell how to find the way home again by reason of their mistake as I have some in the Ship with me now that are in the same Errour for want of Understanding the true difference of the Meridians according to their Miles of Longitude in the several Latitudes I could with all Seamen would give over sailing by the false plain Card and sail by Mercator's Chart which is according to the truth of Navigation But it is an hard matter to convince any of the old Navigators from their Method of sailing by the Plain Chart shew most of them the Globe yet they will walk in their wonted Road. At eight of the Clock in the Forenoon my Boat put from me and rowed to the Shore with in point Gallery to the place where Don Carlos was landed I laid off and on with the Ship before the Port the Boat rowed all along the Shore by the place where Don Carlos was landed and along the Shore into the Harbour at the Points on the South-side of the Harbour stands a small Fort of seven Guns called S. James's Fort My Boat came suddenly on it and before they perceived it to be a Fort they were within shot of it The Spaniards stood on the Shore and wasted with a white Flag and called to them My Lieutenant rowed to them and asked of them what Country they were they answered of Spain They asked my Lieutenant of what Country he was He answered of England they asked him to come a-shore whch he did in hopes to have seen Don Carlos there for that path that Don Carlos went in when he was landed led directly to this Fort by the Sea-side and it was not a Mile from the Fort to the place where he was landed so as he must go to this Fort and be upon it before he was aware of it unless he knew it before The path went all along between the Woods and the Sea In the Woods there is no travelling they are so thick and grow on the side of an Hill the Fort stands just by the Wood-side on a race of the Bank of five yards ascent from the Sea with a bank of Earth cast up before the Ordnance and flight Pallisadoes plac'd in an Half-moon four yards distant from the Guns to the Southward which Pallisadoes are to keep the Natives from running violently on the Ordnance so these Spaniards guard themselves with long Lances against the Natives in the Fort. The Spaniards have Match-lock Musquetoons but they are very ordinary ones and they are as silly in using them At my Lieutenants landing about twenty Spaniards and Indians came to the Water-side in Arms and received him and his Company a-shore and carried him some twenty yards from the Water-side up the race of the Bank under a great Tree where the Captain of the Fort and two other Spanish Gentlemen received him under the shade with great Courtesie after the Spaniards Ceremony they sat them on Chairs and Benches placed about a Table under the shade for the Sun shone very warm it being a very fair Day The Spanish Captain called for Wine which was brought to him in a great Silver Bowl He drank to my Lieutenant and bid him welcome a-shore and caused five of his Ordnance to be fired being glad to see English Men in this place and told him that this was Baldavia speaking very kindly and how welcome they were to him After every one had drank and my Lieutenant had thanked him for his Entertainment he desired my Gentlemen to sit down and he discoursed with them and asked from whence they came and what way they came into this Sea and what their Captains Name was and if there were
Kent Hugh Cooe Trumpeter aged twenty eight Years and born in Wappen Thomas Highway Linguist aged thirty five Years and born in Barbary of Moorish Parents He turned Christian and lived in London This Thomas Highway is a Tawny-Moor he speaks the Spanish Tongue very clear for he had lived formerly at Cadiz with an English Merchant All these four were very healthy sound Men and of good Presence and Spirit which gives me great hopes that they will live to give an Account of that Country and of their Travels Cape-Gallery which is the outermost Point on the South-side of the Harbour of Baldavia lieth in the Latitude of thirty nine Degrees fifty seven Minutes South of Equinoctial as also in Longitude to the Westward of the Meridian of the Lizard of England seventy Degrees twenty Minutes according to my Account and in Meridian distance one thousand one hundred and eight Leagues West and in Longitude East from the West-mouth of Magellan Streights and Cape-Pillar two Degrees and forty Minutes and in Meridian distance 42 Leagues nearest according to my reckoning Thursday December 22. This Morning it prov'd very fair Weather at Day-light the Wind was at South-west a fresh gale the Sea indifferent smooth I plied to the Windward along the Coasts and was about three Leagues off the Shore somewhat to the Southward of Cape-Gallery out of sight of the People of Baldavia for the Cape was shut in with the Land to the Northward of the Harbour At twelve of the Clock I had a good Observation of the Sun with my Quadrant and I found my self in the Latitude of 40 degrees 3 minutes South I was then three Leagues off the Shore and could not get ground at eighty Fathom I was to the Southward of Baldivia Harbour December 31. This afternoon it blew hard at N. W. and rained I steered South-west and by South by my Compass this Afternoon and to Night Here are several sorts of Porpus Fishes in these Seas unlike ours in Europe some pied white and black and some grey and large ones Rainy Weather to Night and no Observation to be made of the Shore January Anno. Dom. 1670-71 Sunday January 1. Raw cold cloudy Weather Rain and some Hail the Wind at N. W. a stout gale and a great Sea I was much afraid that I should lose my Main-mast it fetched such way and broke the spikes that fastned the Fetches with working I steered S. S. W. to ease the Ship from rolling what I could After several Courses made from Saturday Noon till to day Noon I make the true Course to be South 39 d. 00 m. Westerly and distance sailed 105 Miles and departure West 66 Miles and difference of Longitude 101 d. 37 m. 4 tenths difference of Latitude 1 d. 22 m. 3 tenths Latitude by Account 47 d. 47 m. South Wednesday January 4. Indifferent fair Weather the Wind at North-west and sometimes at W. N. W. a fine gale I kept on my Course South Some Porpus Fishes seen to day and some Whales and Sea-Fowl many little Peterels This Morning I took the Suns Amplitude and I find the Compass to have 10 Degrees 28 Minutes variation Easterly My Course made true from Tuesday Noon till to day Noon is South distance sailed 84 Miles and the difference of Latitude is 1 d. 24 m. 8 tent Lat. by good Observation of the Sun on the Meridian 51 d. 31 m. South Meridian distance from Point-Gallery West 70 leag 1 mil. 5 ten Longitude at Noon from Point-Gallery West 4 d. 48 m. 4 ten Longitude at Noon from the Lizard West 75 d. 8 m. 4 ten Meridian distance from the Lizard West 1178 Leagues 1 Mile 5 Tenths Friday January 6. Hasey foggy Weather this Morning the Wind at W. S. W. a stout gale I steered in for to make the four Islands which I called the Isles of Direction or to make Cape Desiade My Course was E. N. E. by my Compass the Nights being but short and light for the Moon was at the full so that I could see at some time clear a League before us At four of the Clock this Morning it being fair day-light I caused the Lead to be cast forth but could not get ground at eighty Fathom I reckon my self about ten Leagues from Cape Desiade and on the Latitude of 52 d. 53 m. South A little past four of the Clock it cleared up on the East Horizon we looked well abroad and saw the four Isles called The Directions which lie at the Mouth of the Streights N. N. W. from Cape Desiade distance from thence abought eight Leagues These Islands made in four Hommaccoes like Hay-cocks when I saw them they bear N. E. of me distant about four Leagues they lie in the Latitude of 52 d. 42 m. and at five of the Clock the Islands bore North of me distant three Leagues off I sounded but could not get ground at 70 Fathoms I saw Cape Desiade it cleared up for the Fog was much on the Hills the Cape was E. S. E. of me distant near eight Leagues the tops of the ragged Hills or rocky Spires were clouded with the flying Fog so as I could not see the Cape sooner for in clear Weather the Land at Cape-pillar and Cape Desiade may be seen fifteen or sixteen Leagues it is so high and ragged I steered by Cape-pillar East and by South the Wind at West-south-west a fresh gale a great humming Sea ran here which came out of the South-west I saw the Sea break upon broken ground which lieth at least four Leagues from the point of Cape Desiade West into the Sea and many Rocks that were sunk and prints of Rocks above Water which the Sea breaketh terribly these lie off Cape Desiade about two Leagues and a League and some not half a Mile off very dangerous As I came nearer the Streights-mouth I raised the Land on the North-side by Cape Victory and the broken Islands within the Streights which I called Westminster Isle and the Lodgers Isle they make ragged in Hillocks at the first sight At nine of the Clock Cape-pillar bore South of me being distant about a Mile and an half from me No Tide or Current as I could perceive set either in or out of the Streights so as to prejudice Navigation The difference of Longitude East is 1 d. 39 m. 4 tenths the Latitude by my Account now is but 52 d. 51 m. South but formerly my Account of the Latitude of this place was South 52 d. 58 m. Meridian distance at 9 of the Clock from Point Gallery West 35 leag 00 mil. 2 10. Longitude at 9 of the Clock from Point Gallery West 2 deg 43 min. ● Longitude at 9 of the Clock from the Lizard West 73 d. 3 m. ● Meridian distance at 9 of the Clock from the Lizard West 1153 leag 00 mil. 2 10. I find but very little Tide or Current in this Sea of Mare del Zur for I am but 3 Minutes of Longitude out of my Account in
out of a Lake of fresh Water in a Valley amongst the Hills we made the Boat fast and marched all into the Land five or six Miles being stop'd from going further by Hills rising very steep and Mountains and impenetrable Woods we made several Fires but could not see any sign of them so far in the Land No Beast or other Creature to be seen many small streams of fresh Water come running from the snowy Mountains with great Falls from the steep Rocks we looked in many places of the Earth and in the streams of Water for Gold c. but found none nor any other Metal of Mineral Here grow on the Bushes many small red Berries much like Hurts very good to eat the Grass-Land is very loose and Boggy the Rocks are a kind of white Marble the Trees like those at Port Famen here are small Pepper-trees To Night I got on Board Calm Weather I rode fast with the Ship Here ends Sir John Narbrough's Manuscript Journal which we shall continue home to England from the MS Diary taken by Sir John's ingenious Lieutenant Nathaniel Pecket Wednesday January 11. Fair Weather Wind variable from South-east to South-west This Morning we made the best of our way to get into Port Famen Here we had Fishes from the Shore to Fish our Main-mast At twelve a Clock we Anchored in nine Fathom Waaer This place afforded what we wanted as very good large Trees for Fishes good Water good wild Fowl good fish like Mullets and large Smelts here we fitted our Ships Masts and Rigging as well as we could Careen'd her and filled our Casks with good fresh Water and took as much Wood aboard as we thought fit January 16. Fair Weather and little Wind Westerly This Morning the Lieutenant was ordered to go up with the Boat in Segars River as high as he could with convenience and to see for Indians He went up about nine Miles but could nor get higher with the Boat by reason of the Trunk-timber and shoaliness in the Water So I landed and went up two Miles by Land to see for Indians but I could not see any not any thing worth the Observation How far the River runs up I know not for I saw not the end of it so I returned a-board again January 29. Fair Weather and little Wind at South-west This Morning the Captain went over with the Pinnace to the South-shore to see for Indians and if there were and Harbour for Shipping short of Port Famen This day came an Indian to the Point of Port Famen and made a Fire and I went a-shore to see what he had but he had neither Bow nor Arrow nor any thing else to the value of the Farthing I would have had him come a-board with me but he would not as far as I understood by the Signs he made to me he had been a slave to some other Indians and had run away from them and was travelling home Tuesday January 31. Fair Weather Wind variable This Evening the Captain came a-board again having been over on the South-shore to see for an Harbour but could find none nor see any Indians Saturday February 4. Fair Weather Wind at West by North. This Morning at four a Clock we set Sail for Port Famen and at eleven a Clock we were short of Fresh-water Bay and at six a Clock in the Evening we Anchored in twelve Fathom Water in a fine sandy Bay about four Leagues to the Northward of Freshwater Bay February 5. Fair Weather but very much Wind at South-west and West-south-west This Morning the Captain sent me to Freshwater Bay to see for Indians but I saw none there so I returned again aboard February 7. Fair Weather Wind Northerly This Morning the Captain ordered me to take the Pinnace and to go along the North-shore and between Elizabeth's Island and the Shore to see for Indians In the Afternoon it blew hard Northerly that we could not row a head so I put back into a sandy Bay and went a-shore and stayed there all Night and in this Bay we haled the same and got a great many good and large Smelts Smelts of twenty Inches long and eight Inches about Wednesday February 8. Fair Weather Wind West-south-west This Morning at four a Clock I run down the Streights with the Pinnace keeping the Norht-shore a-board and run berwixt it and Elizabeth's Island but saw no Indians yet saw several places where they had been very lately and where they had built their Canowes From Cape Desiade to Elizabeths Island there is Wood and fresh Water plenty but from Elizabeths Island to Cape Virgin-Mary Wood and fresh Water is very scarce to come by This Afternoon at three a Clock I got a-board again and at four a Clock we came to an Anchor in eight Fathom Water black Sand we rid within a Mile of the North-shore St. Georges and St. Bartholomew's Island were both shut in one and they bore South-south-east of me and Elizabeths Island bore South and by East And here we rid with the Ship all Night February 9. Fair Weather Wind Westerly This Morning the Captain sent me to see for Indians but I could see none yet I fell with a good Harbour for small Vessels on the North-side and at the South-end of a great deep Bay thwart of Elizabeths Island the entrance of this Harbour is not a Bow-shot from side to side I sounded it and there was twelve foot Water at a low Water but within there was three Fathom Water at low Water from the entrance of this Harbour to the upper end of it is about seven Miles Here is in this Harbour great stone of Geese and Ducks and a-shore there is great store of Heath-berries and Hicts and small Black-berries good and well-tasted but I saw no Indians so I returned a-board again the Captain went into another Harbour a Mile to the Southward of the second Narrow on the North-shore and sounded and had four Fathom Water in it it is very broad within and there is great store of Sea-Crabs Saturday February 11. Fair Weather Wind variable This day the Captain ordered me to go with the Pinnace and discover the North-shore and if I could with convenience discover some part of the South and to go to the first Narrow and there to stay for the Ship so I went through the second and landed on the South-side in a fine sandy Bay or Cove expecting to fall with Indians for I saw a many Fires up in the Land I went up about five or six Miles but could see no Indians Then the Night coming on I returned again to the Boat and there we pitched a Tent to lie in and lay all Night and at High-water we set the same thwart a Pond of Water and there it stood until Low-water then we halled the Pond all over and haled a-shore about 700 good and large Fish like Mullets This Land is very dry barren Land and nothing to be seen in it worth the Observation
Northward to the South Latitude of 17 d. and from thence Westward to the Cocos and Horns Islands first discovered by William Scouten and then if not sooner to recruit for they had indeed been upon Anthony van Diemens Land but had met with nothing and upon New Zealand they had not so much as once been a-shore Jan. 8. in S. Latitude 30 d. 25 m. Longitude 192 d. 20 m. N. E. variation 9 d. they had great Waves out of the S. E. so that upon that Point no Land can be hoped January 12. South Latitude 30 d. 5 m. Longitude 195 d. 27 m. N. E. variation 9½ d. they had hollow Waves out of the S. E. and S. W. January 16. in S. Latitude 26. d. 29 m. Longitude 199 d. 32 m. N. E. variation 8 d. The 19. in S. Latitude 22 d. 35 m. Longitude 204 d. 15 m. N. E. variation 7½ d. they saw an Island about two or three Miles round high steep and barren in appearance they would willingly have come nearer to it but could not because of the S. E. and S. S. E. Wind they gave it the name of Piilstreets Islands because of the multitude of those Fowls the next day they saw again two Islands The 21. of January in S. Latitude 21 d. 20 m. Longitude 205 d. 29 m. N. E. variation 7¼ d. they came to the Northermost Island which was the biggest and not high they gave it the name of Amsterdam and the other Middleburgh On this Amsterdam they got many Hogs Hens and all sorts of Fruits the Inhabitants were friendly had no Weapons and appeared to know no evil excepting that they take the liberty to Steal there the Current is not great the Ebb runs near N. E. and the Flood S. W. a S. W. Moon makes high Water and it flows seven or eight Foot at least the Wind is continually S. E. and S. S. E. wherewith the Yacht Hemskirk was a drift but saved her self off the Island yet took in no Water which here was not easie to come by January 25. in South Latitude 20 d. 15 m. Longitude 206 d. 19 m. N. E. variation 6⅓ d. after having seen several little Islands they came to the Island Rotterdam as you see it in the Chart. The People were friendly and without Arms as the former but likewise very thievish here they got fresh Water and other refreshment they went through this Island and found the Cocos or Clappus Trees in great plenty planted orderly one by another and Gardens whose Beds were made square and very handsome and set with all sorts of Fruit Trees which in almost all places were planted in a right Line so that it was a pleasure to behold them on all sides giving a fragrant and delightful smell From this Island Rotterdam they departed and saw some other Islands which you see in the Chart and now designed according to their former resolution to go away North till the 17. degree of South Latitude and then West not to pass by the Traitors and Hornese Island they had the Wind at S. E. and E. S. E. February 6. in South Latitude 17 d. 19 m. Longitude 201 d. 35 m. they were intricated among about eighteen or twenty Islands which were all incompassed with Sands Shoals Banks and Rocks which Islands are marked in the Charts by the name of Prince Williams Islands and Hemskirks Shoals February 8. In S. Latitude 15 d. 29 m. Longitude 199 d. 31 m. they had a great deal of Rain and hard Wind out of the N. E. and N. N. E. with hasey and dark Weather and fearing left they might be more Westwardly than by their Reckoning that they might not fall to the Southwards of Nova Guinea or on unknown Coasts also by reason of the windy dark Weather they concluded to go on N. or N. N. W. to 4 5 or 6 d. of South Latitude and then away West to Nova Guinea and so to be in less danger February 14. in South Latitude 16 d. 30 m. Longitude 193 d. 35 m. till this time they had every day Rain with Storms but now 't was more Calm they halled the Ship Seahaen and found their Reckonings to agree February 20. in S. Lat. 13 d. 45 m. Long 193 d. 35 m. they had still thick dark misty and rainy Weather the Sea coming out of all Quarters and the Wind variable February 26. Lat. S. 9 d. 48 m. Long 193 d. 43 m. the Wind was constantly N. W. they had not had one dry day in twenty one March 2. Lat. S. 9 d. 11 m. Long. 192 d. 46 m. N. E. variation 10 d. the Weather and Wind variable March 8. Latitude South 7 d. 46 m. Longitude 190 d. 47 m. Weather and Wind as before March 14. South-Latitude 10 d. 12 m. Longitude 186 d. 14 m. N. E. variation 8 d. 45 m. Before this for twelve days time they could get no Observation because every day it was thick dark and dirty Weather with much Rain March 20. South Latitude 5 d. 15 m. Longitude 181 d. 16 m. N. E. variation 9 d. the Weather grew better March 22. South Latitude 5 d. 2 m. Longitude 178 d. 32 m. good Weather with Easterly Trade Wind they got sight of Land four Miles West from them it was a number of small Islands about twenty in all named in the Charts Onthong Java which lye about ninety Miles from the Coast of Nova Guinea March 25. South Latitude 4 d. 35 m. Longitude 175 d. 10 m. variation 9 d. 30 m. they were up with the Islands of Mark all found by William Scouten and John le Mair being fourteen or fifteen in number The Natives are Savage and have their black Hair tyed up like the Rogues of Murderers Bay in Nova Zea●andia March 29. they passed by Green Island the 30. by St. Johns Island April 1. in South Latitude 4 d. 30 m. Longitude 171 d. 2 m. variation 8 d. 45 m. they reached the Coast of New Guinea at a Cape called by the Spaniards Cabo Saint Maria and went along the Coast which lies about N. W. to Anthony 〈◊〉 Island Gardeners Island and Fishers Island to the Promontory called Struis Hook where the Land falls away S. and S. Eastwardly which they followed and went Southerly until they should discover the Land or else find a Passage to the South April 12. S. Latitude 3 d. 45 m. Longitude 167 d. 00 m. N. E. variation 10 d. here they had a sudden Earth-quake that all they that were fast asleep came up out of their Cabbins very much affrighted imagining that the Ship had struck upon a Rock but casting the Lead found no ground they had afterwards several shakes of the Earth-quake but never so violent as the first they were then within the Struis Hook standing into the Bight Bay of Good Hope April 14. South Latitude 5 d. 27 m. Longitude 166 d. 57 m. N. E. variation 9 d. 15 m. Here they saw the Land from the E. N.
E. into the S. and so on to the S. S. W. they intended to find a Passage between both but found this to be all one Land even into the West wherefore they turned their Course Westward along the Coast and had much Calms April 20. in S. Latitude 5 d. 4 m. Longitude 164 d. 27 m. N. E. variation 8 d. 30 m. by night they came by the Burning Island and saw a great Fire come out of the top of the Hill of which a●●o William Scouten writes they went between this Island and the Main and saw many Fires close by the Water as towards the middle of the high Hill whence they argued this to be a populous and well inhabited Island they had along this Coast of Nova Guinea much Calms and saw frequently drift Wood as small Trees Bamboes and other filth from the Land that came out from the Rivers which made them conclude that there are many Rivers and that it must be a good Land The next day they past the Burning Mountain and went along the Shore W. N. W. April 27. in South Latitude 2 d. 10 m. Longitude 156 d. 47 m. they thought they were at the Island Moa but it was Jama a little more Easterly than Moa here they got many Coco-Nuts and other things The People were wholly black and what they heard our People speak they could very perfectly repeat which is a certain sign that their Language is very copious in Words and difficult to be pronounced because they use much the Letter R. and sometimes two or three times in a Word The next day they came before Moa where likewise they got much refreshment here by reason of contrary Winds they stayed till the 6. of May so that they Trucked for near 6000 Coco-Nuts and 100 Bundles of Pysanghs about the beginning of their Traffick on the Island Moa whether maliciously or otherwise one of our Company was hurt with an Arrow shot by one of the Inhabitants whilst this past they were getting their Ships nearer to the Land wherewith this People were so frighted that of their own accord they brought aboard him that had shot the Arrow for us to do with him what we pleased and from that time they were better to be spoken withal whether it were in their Traffick or otherwise so that our People took pieces of Iron Hoops and fitted them into Hafts and made them somewhat bright and sharp and so put them off for Knives It is probable they still remember what befel them with William Scouten 27. years before ' T was in the year 1616. July 16. for they having dealt very traiterously and perversly with him Jacob le Mair went with the Ship close to the Land between the Islands and shot with his great Guns along the Strand and into the Woods so that the Bullets flew through the Trees with a great noise whereupon these Negroes fled and durst not once peep out but at length they grew very tractable May 12. in S. Lat. 0 d. 54 m. and Long. 153 d. 17 m. N. E. variation 6 d. 30 m. they sailed along the N. side of William Scoutens Island it seems that the People are nimble and that the Island is well inhabited it is about 1● or 19 Miles long May 18. S. Lat. 0 d. 26 m. Long. 147 d. 55 m. N. E. variation 5 d. 30 m. they had past the Cape of good Hope and come to the West end of New Guinea a broken Point of Land They had much variable Calm and contrary Winds with rain From hence they went Southward for Seram and came on the North side thereof On the 27. of May they went on through the Streights to the North of Boure or Bouton and so for Batavia where they arrived June 15. in South Latitude 6 d. 12 m. and Longitude 127 d. 18 m. the Voyage was finished in ten Months A MAP of y e NORTH EAST AND NORTH WEST Parts of the POLE. Relation of a Voyage for the Discovery of a Passage by the North-East to Japan and China Performed in his Majesties Ship the Speedwel and Pr●sperous Pink Anno Domini 1676. Where is shewed the Reasons and Grounds of the probability of a Passage before the Attempt with some good Observation made in the said Voyage by Captain John Wood. TO Write a full Relation of all those Navigators that have attempted to find a Passage by the N. E. to China and Japan will be ●eedless since their Naratives have passed most ●●ands they being Recorded in Hackluit and Purcha●'s but my 〈◊〉 is to shew wherein those failed that have 〈◊〉 undertaken it and then to shew the 〈◊〉 Reasons that induced 〈◊〉 undertak 〈◊〉 said Voyage with the event thereof The first that ever Attempted the said Voyage 〈◊〉 Sir Hugh Willoughby in the year 1553. with 〈◊〉 Sail of Ships and he sail ed to the North Cape of Finmarke and then into the Lat. of 72. 〈◊〉 he saies he saw Land but to this day it ●annot be found again and I am of Opinion ●●at it was some Fog Bank that he saw for in my return Home I run over the same place where our Chard-Make●s lay down that Land but certain it was that by foul Weather he was forced into a Harbor in Laplan●● called Arzena where by th● continuance of bad Weather he could never return out but was there frozen to Death with al● his Ships Company so tha● of this Voyage there was no Light given to find a Passage that way The second that Attempted was one Captai● Stephen Burrough afterward Comptroller of th● Navy to Queen Elizabeth In the Year 155● he set forward and passed the North Cape an● sailing farther Easterly discovered the Waygate that is the Streight tha● runneth between th● South part of Nova Z●mbla and the Sammo●● Country where he entred and believing th●● Sinus or by the Eastward of the Streights to 〈◊〉 a free and open Sea he returned with hope 〈◊〉 Passage that way to China and Japan The third that Attempted was Captain Arth●● Pett and Captain Charles Jackman in the Ye●● 1580. being sent out by Queen Elizabeth to follo● the Track 〈◊〉 Burroughs so setting forwards th●● came to the W●ygates and passed the Streigh and came into the Sea to the Eastward where the● met with such a vast quantity of Ice and 〈◊〉 Weather that they with great Hazard Peril 〈◊〉 Labour were forc'd to return but by foul We●ther lost one 〈◊〉 other and Pett was never 〈◊〉 of since so the Passage through the Waygate was in England laid by as thought not possi●●●e that way and then the Hollanders undertook The fourth that Attemped it was William Barrans a well Experienced Navigator and Artist sent out of Holland by Prince Morrice in the Year 1606. He sailed into the Waygates but being entred he found the same Incumbrance with Ice that Pett and Jackman had done before so tasting of the Water and finding of it fresh which neither Burrough Pett nor Jackman
great Fogs from the South-south-east to the West-north-west Course per Compass between the South-west and the West distance sailed by the Log 91 Miles true Course Protracted is South-west by South 87 Miles difference of Lat. 76 Miles departure 43 Miles Lat. per Judgment 73 d. 08 m. Meridian distance 625 Miles At Noon no ground with 160 Fathom Lines Monday July 24. From the 23. Noon to this Day Noon little Winds and variable with Calms true Course allowed is South-south-west ¾ West 22 Miles distance of Lat. 18 Miles departure 11 Miles Lat per Judgment 72 d. 50 m. Meridian distance 636 Miles Tuesday July 25. From the 24. Noon to this Day Noon the Wind variable with fresh Gales from North by West to the East with Fogs Course between the West-south-west and South-west distance sailed by the Log 88 Miles true Course allowed for 9 d. variation is South-west ½ Westerly distance of Lat. 54 Miles departure 69 Miles Lat. per Judgment 71 d. 56 m. Meridian distance 705 Miles Wednesday July 26. From the 25. Noon to this day Noon the Wind variable from the East by North to the South with thick Fogs Distance sailed by the Log 73 Miles Course per Compass between the South-west by West and West-north-west true Course Protracted is West ½ South distance of Lat. 7 Miles departure 67 Miles Thursday July 27. From the 26. Noon to this Day Noon the Winds from the South to the South-west with great Fogs Distance sailed by the Log 68 Miles true Course allowed West ½ South difference of Lat. 7 Miles departure 62 Miles West Friday July 28. From the 27. Noon to this Day Noon the Wind from the South-south-west to the South-east Course per Compass between the West by North and the South-west close upon a Wind distance sailed by the Log 85 Miles true Course Protracted is South-west by West ¼ 80 Miles distance of Latitude 46 Miles South departure 64 Miles West thick Fogs with small Rain Saturday July 29. From the 28. Noon to this Day Noon much Wind from the South to the South-west we tryed under a Main-sail three Watches true Course allowed is West 15 Miles Sunday July 30. From the 29. Noon to this Day Noon the Wind variable from South-east to the South and so to the North-west with sudden gusts with much Rain then little Wind at 8 this Morning much Wind at North-west true Course Protracted all impediments allowed is South-south-west 66 Miles distance of Lat. 60 Miles departure 25 Miles Monday July 31. From the 30. Noon to this Day Noon much Wind at North-west with Rain Course per Compass South-west by South and South-west distance sailed by the Log 104 Miles true Course allowed for Leeward-way and variation South by West ½ West difference of Lat. 103 Miles departure 11 Miles Lat. per Dead Reckoning 68 d. 13 m. but by Observation 68 d. 00●●m departure accordingly Corrected 15 Miles Meridian distance 953 Miles Tuesday August 1. From the 31. Noon to this Day Noon the Wind variable from the North-west to the South-west by West distance sailed by the Log 80 Miles we ply to Windward true Course Protracted variation and Leeward-way allowed distance West-south-west difference of Lat. 72 Miles departure 51 Miles thick cloudy Weather with some small Rains and Fogs Wednesday August 2. From the 1. Noon to this Day Noon from the South by West to the South-west thick Fogs Course per Compass between the West by South and the West-north-west distance sailed by the Log 51 Miles true Course allowed is West by North difference of Lat. 12 Miles departure 49 Miles Lat. per Judgment 67 d. 50 m. but by a good Observation Lat. 67 d. 55 m. at Noon clear Weather Thursday August 3. From the 2. Noon to this Day Noon the Wind from the West to the South-south-west with Fogs and Rains Course per Traverse we ply to Windward true Course Protracted is South-south-west distance of Lat. 21 Miles departure 10 Miles at Night much Wind at South we lay under a Main-sail Friday August 4. From 8 at Night to this Day Noon a Storm of Wind at South and S. S. W. True Course Drist and all impediments allowed is North-west by North ¼ West difference of Lat. 18 Miles depareture 16 Miles at Noon less Wind we set our Fore-sail Saturday August 5. From the 4. Noon to this Day Noon the Wind from the West by South to the North-west a very cold Strom true Course allowed is South by East difference of Lat. 75 Miles departure 15 Miles in the Afternoon little Wind. Sunday August 6. From the 5. Noon to this Day Noon fresh Gales and little Wind from the West-north-west to the West-south-west True Course allowed South ¼ East distance of Lat. 67 Miles departure 8 Miles Monday August 7. From the 6. Noon to this Day Noon the Wind at South and South-west sometimes much Wind and then Calm again True Course allowed per Judgment is West-north-west ¼ North 53 Miles difference of Lat. 22 Miles departure West 47 Miles at Noon the Wind came about to the West-north-west much Wind and at 8 it blew a Strom at Northwest Tuesday August 8. From yesterday 8 at Night to this Day Noon a Strom of Wind at North-west we run away with our Fore-sail Reeft Course per Compass South-south-west distance sailed by the Log 116 Miles true Course allowed is South distance of Lat. 107. Miles departure West 5 Miles Wednesday August 9. At 3 in the Morning a fresh Gale saw many Willocks and other Sea-Fowls and at 5 we saw the Land East-south-east from us being high Land and making like Islands being the Isles of Fero. At Noon Lat. by a good Observation 61 d. 45 m. at which time the Westermost Island bore East about 8 Leagues off Distance sailed from yesterday Noon to this Day Noon 120 Miles true Course allowed South by West ¼ Westerly distance of Lat. 116 Miles departure 26 Miles Lat. per Judgment 62 d. 04 m. distance between the Dead Lat. and the observed Lat. 20 Miles so that the Ship is 20 Miles more Southerly and consequently more Westerly Meridian distance 1129 Miles but by Correction 1136 Miles we saw a small Vessel and gave chase to her but she made from us Thursday August 10. From the 9. Noon to this Day Noon a fresh Gale at North-west Course between the South and East-south-east to get clear of the Islands in the Night distance sailed by the Log 102 Miles true Course Protracted is South-east by East ¼ South distance of Lat. 58 Miles departure 76 Miles spoke with the Ship we saw yesterday being a Lyn Man come from the Island Friday August 11. From the 10. Noon to this Day Noon the Wind at North-north-west Course per Compass South-east by east distance sailed by the Log 83 Miles at Noon the Island Foule bore North-east by East about 3 Leagues off the Wind came about at South Saturday August 12. From the 11. Noon to this
when we sailed South-east there we took in a Pilot on purpose chosen by the Magistrates of Hamburg On the 29th it was fair weather and warm Sun-shine all day we sailed before the Elbe and lay at Anchor by the first Buoy called the Red-Buoy in the afternoon we weighed our Anchor and sailed to Kucks-Haven in the night we had thunder and lightning and rain The End of the first Part. THE SECOND PART OF THE VOYAGE TO SPITSBERGEN CONTAINING The Description of Spitzbergen CHAP. I. Of the External Face and Appearance of Spitsbergen It seemeth because the Ice stands firm and floats not as that in the Sea doth that there should be land not far behind it As the highest Countries are surrounded with Mountains as a Fortification is with Walls and Works so are these Countries naturally surrounded with high Hills The inward Condition of this Country we do not know but it seemeth since we see one Hill behind another that it is so throughout the whole Country At the Muscle-Haven or Muscle-Bay we find plainer and leveller Ground and the farther we sail toward the East the Ground groweth the lower yet it is all stony and with prospects of smaller Hills it doth not look at all as if it could be inhabited by Men. I believe also that the Land there must of necessity be lower and lower for else we should see it higher above the other as we do the other Mountains Concerning the Beasts that live on this Land I believe they come over the Ice in the Spring when the Ice stands firm into these Countries and that the same way they go away from thence again when the long nights begin Concerning the Birds we have partly a good account of them their places and food is known as I shall mention when I come to write of them When on the 18th of June on a Sunday in the forenoon we first came to the Foreland of Spitzbergen the foot of these Mountains looked like fire and the tops of them were coverwith foggs the snow was marbel'd and look'd as if it were boughs of branches of Trees and gave as bright and glorious a shining of gloss to the Air or Skies as if the Sun had shin'd When the Mountains look thus fiery a hard storm generally ensues These Countries are in the Winter encompassed with Ice from divers places according as the winds blow as if it be East from Nova Zembla if North-west form Greenland and the Island of John Mayen it also happeneth sometimes that the Land is begirt with Ice in the Summer as they have often seen that go thither every year But when the Ice comes floating on too hard or in too great a quantity then the Ships make to the Harbours Havens Bays or Rivers as they call them that run up into the Country the wind useth to receive us something unkindly when we sail into them roaring over the dry Hills with small Whirl-winds The water in these Rivers is salt We meet here with no fresh Streams or Rivolets nor did I ever see a Spring there Of some Rivers we know their beginning of others it cannot found out because of the danger of the Ice which they are never free from some because of the hidden Rocks underneath the water which are discovered by the vehement breaking of the Sea or by great quantity of white foam The Names of the Havens you find all in order one after another in the Map of Spitzbergen as far as we have been These Havens they reckon to be the safest viz. the Safe-Harbour and the South and North-Bay which are the most known of any in Spitzbergen The other Havens of what names soever we commonly sail by because they lye open to the Sea Others we pass by because of the constant Ice that is in them and the hidden Rocks In the South or North-Haven or Bay ride commonly the most Ships I told several times ten twenty nay thirty Ships that lay at Anchor as your may see in the Plates C and D marked with c and d. Concerning the Birds we see abundance more of them by and on the Land then among the Ice chiefly when they hatch their Eggs we do not find they make their Nest up with far-fetcht things neither do they gather any thing for them from Norway Schetland or the like The Seeds of several Herbs might grow in Spitzbergen but the Herbs nature hath bestowed on those Countries are such as are fit for the Diseases and Distempers that are common there We saw abundance of Sea-horses by Spitzbergen on the low Land and upon the Ice but we saw but very few Seales on the Ice thereabout The Country as is aforesaid is stony and quite throughout it are high Mountains and Rocks Below at the feet of the Mountains stand the Hills of Ice very high and reach to the tops of the Mountains the Cliffs are filled up with Snow wherefore these Snow-Mountains show very strange to those that never saw them before they appear like dry Trees with Branches and Twigs and when the Snow falleth upon them they get Leaves as it were which soon after melt and others come in the room of them There are seven large Ice-Mountains in a Line in these Countries that lye between the high Rocks which look of a glorious blew colour as also is the Ice with a great many cracks and Holes in them they are hollowed out melted away and cut in Groves by the rain and snow-water that runs down they are increased greatly by the Snow as the other Ice that swimmeth in the Sea is also they are augmented likewise by the melted Snow from the Rocks and from the Rain that falls on them These seven Mountains of Ice are esteemed to be the highest in the Country indeed they shewed very high as we sailed by them underneath the Snow look'd dark from the shades of the Skies which shewed very neat and curious with the blew cracks where the Ice was broken off About the middle of the Mountains some foggy Clouds hovered over above these the Snow was very bright The true Rocks look't fiery and the Sun shin'd pale upon them the Snow giving the Air a bright reflection They were covered with Clouds so that you could scarce see the tops of them Some of these Rocks are but one stone from the bottom to the top appearing like an old decayed Wall they smell very sweet as the green Fields do in our Country in the Spring when it rains See c c in the Plate C. The stones for the most part are vein'd differently like Marble with red white and yellow at the alteration of the weather the stones sweat and by that means the Snow is stained or coloured and also if it raineth much the water runs down by the Rocks and from thence the Snow is tinged red On the foot of the Mountains where no mounts of Ice stand lye great loose Rocks as they chance to be fall'n one upon the other with
not forget that we see in these falling Needles a Bow like a Rain-bow of two colours white and a pale yellow like the Sun reflected by the dark Shadows of the Clouds After this I proceed to the Description of an other Bow which I call a Sea-bow This is seen when the Sun shines clear and bright not in the great Waves but in the Atmosphere of the Sea-water which the Wind blows up and which looks like a Fog Commonly we see this before the Ship and sometimes also behind to the Lee-ward so they call that side of the Ship towards the Sea over-against the Sun where the Shadow of the Sail falleth It is not the Shadow of the Sail but a Bow sheweth it self in the Shadow of the Sail. We see this pleasant reflexion in the small drops of the Salt-water of several colours like the Rain-bows in the Skies that are seen over-against the dark Clouds This brings to my Mind another Phanomenon viz. that in the Clouds near the Sum a very bright Light is seen like a Parelion or Mock-sun These Lights are called Weather-galls by the Sea-men This bright Light we find in the lower-most Air in the dark shady Clouds that are not unlike to a Cloud of Rain because it is full of drops wherein the Sun is represented as things are in a Looking-glass This clearness of the Sun causeth a Heat which drives from it a Rain-bow figured by the Sun which Bow are the Drops that by the Heat of the Sun are changed into a Vapour or Fog and this Vapour shews like smoak in the Air when the Cold remits wherein these Colours are no more seen But in these raised Drops as aforesaid the Sun represents it self and causeth these Colours which are truly distinct and represent Blew Yellow and Red which are the three primary Colours of the Bow Concerning the bigness thereof I did considered and minded the Bow that I saw in Spitzbergen and found that it moved about with the Sun by Day and by Night and that it appeared much bigger in the Morning Evening and at Night than in the Day-time I will not mention the Whirlwinds which are unknown in these cold Countries that used to take up the Water into the Air But yet I will not omit the small Whirlwinds that proceed from the high Mountains from whence the Wind recoils and so turneth round about We see farther in Spitzbergen that the Sea as well as the other Waters sends forth a Vapour when the Clold encreases which Vapour is turned into Rain in the Air or into Snow and it smelleth like a Fog or steaming Water It is likewise an Observation there that when we see great Vapours or Fogs in the Air and that such a Vapour riseth almost every moment in a clear Sun-shiny Day without Wind or other Causes the cold Weather is about to remit But when the Air is overburdened by these Vapours the Couds are dissipated and they last a great while with constant Wind. Such Vapours as we see in the Air stick to our Cloaths and Hair like Sweat Out of these small vaporous Drops the Snow is first generated First of all you see a small Drop as big as a single Sand in the Plate E marked with A. This is augmented or encreased by the Fog until it cometh to be like unto a Shield or Plate with six corners as clear and transparent as Glass to these six corners sticks the Fog like Drops as B. then it freezes and splits asunder so that you see the Figure of a Star as C. which yet is still frozen together until in time it is quite parted or divided asunder one from the other and then you see a Star with six Points as D. which Points are not yet quite frozen because there are still hanging some wet drops between the Points until at length it assumes the perfect Form of a Star with Points serrated at the sides like Ferne on the Points whereof still hand some Drops as you see at E which are lost and so it is turned into an exact and perfect Star And this is the Formation of the snowy Star which is seen in the severest Frost so long until at last it loseth all its Points See F. as to the many sorts of Snow that fall in Spitzbergen and in what Weather I have made these following Observations and Distinctions Number 1. in the Plate of E. sheweth the Snow that falleth when it is tolerable cold and rainy withal then it falls like unto small Roses Needles and small Corns When the cold Weather doth remit the Snow falleth like Stars with many points like the Leaves of Ferne. Plate E. Numb 2. If it be only a Fog at last and it snoweth much it looketh as you see Numb 3. If it is very cold and windy like Numb 4. When it is very cold and not windy withal the Snow falleth like unto Stars in a cluster because the Wind cannot blow them asunder like Numb 5. When the Wind was North-West or the Skies were thick of Clouds and it was stormy withal there fell Hail that was round and oblong all over full of Prickles and of the same bigness as you see it as Number 6. There is many more sorts of starry Snow to be seen with more Points and some like unto a Heart but they are all generated after the same manner by the Eastern and Northern Winds The needly Snow is generated by Westerly and Southerly Winds If the Snow is not dispersed by the Wind it falleth down in cl usters But when the Wind driveth it Stars or Needles only fall every piece by it self like the Atoms in the Sun Thus much have I observed hitherto of the Snow and find that also when it is cold and a North Wind blows all sorts of Snow both starry and of other shapes fall as well in these Countries as in Spitzbergen The End of the Second Part. THE THIRD PART OF THE VOYAGE TO SPITZBERGEN CHAP. I. Of the Plants of Spitzbergen GEnerally the Figures of the Plants I here present you with were all drawn by the Life upon the place when they were fresh and of their natural size except the Rock-plant with but one Leaf and the Plant like Horse-Tail that stands by it which because of their largeness could not be well drawn so big at the Life All the Herbs and the Mosses grow upon the Grit and Sand of the Stones where the Water falleth down and on that side of the Hill which the East and North Winds cannot easily come at The Plants owe much of their growth to the Dung of the Birds There were a great many small Herbs which for want of time I could not delineate but I purpose to do it hereafter if God b●esseth me with Life and Health when I make my second Voyage thither I omitted the white Poppy whereof we stuck the Flowers in our Hats the whole Plant was but about a Span long Besides I have not mentioned the