not and perhaps never had its equal in the World does not exceed 560 Feet Now these admirable Buildings have sufficient Bases or Foundations to support the Weight of the Superstructure whereas this enormous Figure must have been four times bigger above than below without reck'ning the Arms that hung down or at least one of 'em which carry'd a Lanthorn and if the Story be true could not be made but by the Architects whom Aesop sent to King Nectanebus I will not insist upon the equal poising of so great a Mass which was both absolutely necessary and extremely difficult in this Case but shall proceed to more obvious Reasons 'T is said that after this Colossus was overthrown by an Earthquake it remain'd where it fell till the Year 656 or according to others 952 which is a new Controversie and that the Saracens broke it to pieces and sold the Brass to a Jew who carry'd it to Antioch And here we meet with another Variation in the Relations of Authors for tho' most are agreed that 900 Camels were loaded with the Brass there are some that reduce the Number to 800 but neither of these Opinions is well grounded Now Sir I wou'd gladly be inform'd where the Colossus fell and they who maintain the Truth of this Story will perhaps find this to be a more puzzling Question than they imagine For considering the Situation of its Legs they cannot pretend that it fell towards the Land and consequently they must acknowledge that it tumbl'd into the Sea where it cou'd not lie without stopping the Mouth of the Harbour nor cou'd that be done without ruining the Trade of the City on which all its Riches depended But these necessary Consequences of this Supposition are directly contradicted by History which assures us that Rhodes was a very flourishing City and that its Port was as good and as much frequented as ever at the Arrival of the Saracens But this is not the only Absurdity that destroys the Credit of the Story T is well known that a Camel's Burthen never exceeds five or six hundred Weight especially when the Journey is considerably long and how then cou'd 900 of those Animals carry away so prodigious a Quantity of Brass For you will find by Calculation that every Foot in the Heighth of the Colossus reckoning 'em one with another weigh'd above 3000 Pounds since 't is computed that a square Foot of that Metal containing an Inch in Thickness weighs above fifty Pounds Now 't is plain that the very encompassing of the â—ody of the Colossus wou'd require much more than sixty such Pieces which according to the above-mentionâ—d Computation amount to 1500 Pounds without reckoning the Overplus and by the same Proportion you may guess at the Quantity of Brass that wou'd have been necessary for lining the whole Figure This Colossus puts me in mind of the extravagant Proposal made to Alexander the Great by an Architect call'd Dinocrates who undertook to build a City on Mount Atlas and to cut it into the Shape of a Man with a Cup in his Hand disgorging a River Cou'd ever a more ridiculous Chimaera enter into a distemper'd Brain But the Ancients cou'd easily swallow the greatest Absurdity and there are still too many profess'd Adorers of those fabulous Writers who defend all their Lies and Mistakes with a stupid Obstinacy As for my part I confess my Faith is so weak on such Occasions that I cannot forbear suspecting the Truth of the Story of the Rhodian Colossus At least since I have so much Complaisance to the Authors that attest it as to keep my self from denying it absolutely I hope they will give me leave to think that 't was somewhat smaller less wonderful and situated in another Place than they imagine for a much less incredible Bulk will suffice if we suppose that 't was plac'd at the Mouth of the Harbour for Galleys However I dare not venture to assure you that I have seen the Place where the Colossus of the Sun stood but only where 't is believ'd it stood for thus I shall be sure to keep close to the Truth which I have always made the Standard of my Relations We stay'd part of a Day at Rhodes and set Sail the same Night with a fair Wind but a sudden Change of Weather oblig'd us to stand in to the Road of Cyprus Cyprus is an Island almost of the same Bigness with Rhodes The Air is so sweet clear and temperate that the Weather is perpetually fair at least I can assure you that during the little time we spent in it I cou'd not perceive the least Sign of Winter It produces great Abundance of Sugar Cotton and delicious Wine besides 't is the best Country in the World for Hunting and Provisions are so incredibly cheap that as the French Consul assur'd me the greatest Lover of his Belly cannot spend Forty Piasters a Year in Eating and Drinking The Town is neither large nor neat inhabited by a Medley of Turks and Christians as all other Places under the Grand Signior's Dominion I saw a Man in it that had four Arms two on each Side one above the other but he cou'd only use the lower The 27 th in the Morning we set Sail and arriv'd at Alexandria on the 8 th instant towards Noon The Land lies so extremely low that tho' the Sun shone very bright we cou'd not discover the Coast till we were very near it At the same time we perceiv'd a Saique making towards us with a Pilot and four Officers of the Custom-House Perhaps most of us wou'd have willingly dispens'd with the last of our Visitants but we stood very much in need of the Pilot's Help for both the Road and Harbour are extremely dangerous by reason of the lurking Rocks that can hardly be avoided without the Assistance of a Seaman of the Country At last having cast Anchor very happily I went a-shore in the Saique As I pass'd by the Custom-House I was somewhat surpriz'd at the unusual Exactness of the Officers for they search'd me all over and even thrust their Hands into my Breeches to know whether I had brought any Gold or Silver which pay a considerable Impost to the Grand Signior commonly call'd Gold-Duty But I was much more surpriz'd at Night when they came to shut us up like so many Prisoners as they do every Night in the Week and on Fridays at Noon by reason of a foolish Prophecy that foretells the Conquest of the City by the Franks For since 't wou'd be very troublesome to shut as many Doors as there are Franks in the Town all those who bear that Name are oblig'd to lodge in certain spacious Hans call'd Fondies which having but one Gate or Door are quickly secur'd The French English and Dutch have each a distinct Han where they live without medling in the least with one another's business either in Peace or War The Merchants who reside here are for the most part only Factors to
they find Pleasure is not a cheap Commodity in this place for these Ladies are not so Hospitable as to entertain Travellers Gratis and they usually set a very high price on their Favours especially at Rome which may be call'd the Centre of Whores I will not pretend to warrant the Truth of their Opinion who say That at Rome Whores may sue a Man for their Hire But I can assure you that they may and do demand the Assistance of the Corte or Watch who have Orders to protect 'em and see 'em paid according to the Quality of the Person The Corte is a Band of Sbirri's who walk the Rounds every Night to prevent Disorders but their Authority is so small and the care they take to suppress Abuses so ineffectual that I know not whether the City receives any Benefit by 'em For since they are not permitted to Fire at any Person 't is easie for any Man that has the Advantage of a Nimble Pair of Heels to avoid falling into their Clutches and there are some roaring Hectors who not only make Head against 'em but even keep 'em in Awe I might reckon up a Thousand Instances of such insolent Villanies but I shall content my self with mentioning one that happen'd very lately The City was never plagu'd with a more desperate Villain than a certain Neapolitan Lord call'd The Prince de la Matrice who was Ring-leader of Fifty Bandits that were fit Companions for such a Master He and his Gang made all the Sbirri's in Rome quake and continu'd their Insolences above a Year till at last the Pope having issu'd out an Order to take him alive or dead he took Sanctuary in a Church where he Capitulated with his Holiness and was permitted to depart with Bag and Baggage he and all his Companions 'T is certainly a very great Abuse that Churches shou'd serve as places of Retreat for Villains and so long as these Privileges remain the abolishing of the Franchises will never put a Stop to the reigning Disorders But which is still more intolerable the Churches are not only so many Sanctuaries to secure Malefactors from Punishment but the Theatres where they act their Villanies The other Day when the People were met to hear Vesper's at the Church of S. Lewis and were busie at their Devotion Fifteen or Twenty Persons cry'd out on a sudden Fly fly the Church is falling and immediately run towards the Door with so many signs of Fear that the People were almost persuaded that the Church was tumbling about their Ears And since on such Occasions 't is natural for a Man to think of saving himself before he consider the greatness or probability of the Danger the People in the Church follow'd those whom they saw running out with so much haste and confusion that several Persons were trodden under Foot and so hurt that they were forc'd to keep their Beds In the mean time the Rogues were not idle Spectatours of the Fright they had occasion'd and some began to miss their Purses and others their Silver-hilted Swords assoon as the Tumult was appeas'd and the Cheat discover'd During my abode at Rome I had the fortune to meet with the same Priest who as I told you in one of my preceeding Letters was imprison'd at Mascon on suspicion of Witchcraft He makes his Court to Cardinal Chigi whom he solicites very earnestly and expects to obtain a Benefice from him but he is certainly an incorrigible Fool as you may perceive by the Account he gave me of himself He assur'd me that he entertain'd a most intimate Fellowship and Correspondence with certain imaginary Inhabitants of the Air by whose Assistance he pretends that one may easily surmount all Difficulties and wou'd have persuaded me that these Spirits open'd the Doors of the Prison when he was in danger of being condemn'd as a Sorcerer I was so surpriz'd at the Novelty and Oddness of his Opinion that I resolv'd to discourse seriously with him about it and ask'd him how he came acquainted with that Airy People and why they wou'd not discover themselves to the rest of Mankind He reply'd that they communicated their Favours only to those who are willing to hearken to 'em and to enter into a Society with 'em adding that they have many Correspondents in the World who live unknown and conceal themselves with all possible Care to avoid the Fate of so many Honest Persons that have been burnt alive for Witchcraft in several places of the Kingdom He deny'd positively that there were any Witches saying That God was too Just and Good to give so much Power to the Devil who according to his Opinion lies bound in Hell from whence he shall never be releas'd But I soon perceiv'd that there was as much Confusion in his Brain as in his Discourse and that he was a meer Fantastical Enthusiast I know not what Credit ye will give to this Man's Relation concerning his imaginary Acquaintances in the Air but you may firmly believe the Story with which I am going to conclude my Letter since I was an Eye-witness of all that pass'd A certain Florentine Soldier in this City without pretending to be invulnerable undertook for a Wager of a Crown to stand as a Mark till four Bullets were successively shot at him and perform'd his Undertaking without receiving the least hurt tho' the Man who discharg'd the Gun stood but fifty Paces from him and cou'd neither be suspected of Collusion nor want of Skill since all the four Bullets pierc'd the Door against which the Florentin stood You will doubtless look upon this as a very odd and surprizing Accident I was so amaz'd at it that I know not whether I cou'd have believ'd it if I had not seen it Yet I can assure you that the Florentin is no Magician and that his Secret only consists in shifting his place assoon as he perceives the flashing of the Powder And the Account he gave me of the easiness of his Undertaking has considerably lessen'd my Surprizal at the Success of it However I wou'd not for 10000 Pistols try the Experiment any otherwise than by shooting a Bullet into the Sea The Soldier found out this way to give me some Satisfaction and I observ'd that the Bullet remain'd so long in the Air that a Man might easily have avoided it Our Captain having taken in all his Lading expects only a fair Wind and by good fortune the third part of the Cargo belongs to Malta so that I shall have the pleasure of spending at the least Fifteen Days in that celebrated Island I am SIR Your c. Leghorn May 1690. LETTER X. SIR THo' I promis'd in my last to excuse you from sharing with us in the Inconveniencies of the Sea and to bring you from France to Turkey without meeting with one Storm I cannot forbear giving you account of one that overtook us in the height of Sardinia And I have even the confidence to think that you will not
complain of my breach of Promise since we had all the Trouble and you will only have the Pleasure if there be any truth in the common Observation That Men usually take delight in hearing a Relation of distant Misfortunes The pleasure of our Voyage was not disturb'd for the first two Days tho' we made no great Progress but on the Third about seven in the Morning there arose on the sudden a most furious North-East Wind which burst our Sails as if they had been made of Paper and between the Wind on one side and the South-West Surges on the other our Ship was so violently toss'd that our Mariners durst not stir from the Sides of the Ship for fear of being wash'd off by the Waves Never was there any Object more capable of striking Terrour into the Spectatour never any Noise more frightful and amazing than that which was occasion'd by the tumbling of the Casks and Boxes the Wind Thunder and Sea the cracking of the Ship and the howling of some Women that were on board A horrid Gloom turn'd the Day into Night and was succeeded by a Flash of Lightning that cover'd our Ship for above a Minute and was accompany'd with a terrible and stupefying Crack I know not what we did in the mean time nor was there one among my Fellow-Passengers that cou'd inform me what was done in that dreadful Minute For we were all so stunn'd that there were hardly any Signs of Life left in us All the Account I can give you is that when we recover'd our senses we perceiv'd that the Lightning had left a thick and black Smoak accompany'd with a sulphureous and noisom Stench that wou'd have killâ—d us if it had lasted a quarter of an Hour but it was dissipated in a Moment We found also that we were remov'd from the places where we were when the Lightning fell which Change doubtless proceeded from the violent Motion and Agitation of the Ship Among the rest one of the Ship-Boys who lay sculking in the Fore-Castle was thrown upon the Hatches in the other end of the Ship and so bruis'd and black with Contusions tho' I may say more properly that there was only one Contusion which cover'd his whole Body that we have still reason to doubt of his Recovery The Mariners concluded that the Devil was the Author of all these Disorders and that there was some Person in the Company under a Sentence of Excommunication For you know extraordinary Accidents are usually esteem'd Miracles by the superstitious Vulgar 'T is true the throwing of the Boy so far may at the first View seem to be above the Power of Nature but an attentive Considerer will not be much surpriz'd at this Effect of the Tempest since this is not the first time that a Hurricane has snatch'd up Men and even whole Ships This puts me in mind of a Story almost of the same Nature which I heard at Guernsey a little Island subject to the Crown of England It happen'd one Day that during a violent Storm a Flash of Lightning set fire to the Powder in the Castle and blew it up with the whole Garrison Only Ten or Twelve Persons escap'd among whom the Governour had the good fortune to be preserv'd in a very singular manner They assur'd me that he was carry'd thro' the Air in his Bed and laid down upon the Castle Wall the Foot of which is bath'd by the Sea and that not knowing how to get down because the Wall was equally steep on both sides he remain'd there till the Weather began to grow calm and then made signs to the People of the Town who came to his Assistance This furious Tempest was succeeded by pretty fair Weather which we enjoy'd during the rest of our Voyage to Malta where we arriv'd six Days after and in nine Days from Leghorn so that we made above a hundred Miles a Day for the distance betwixt these two Places amounts to about a Thousand Miles We had no reason to complain of the slowness of our Passage tho ' we might have perform'd the Voyage much sooner if the Wind had been constantly favourable For the Captain assur'd me that the Great Master of Malta having sent an express to Aix in Provence the Ship on which the Messenger embark'd met with so strong an Easterly Wind that she was carry'd nine hundred Miles in three Days and arriv'd at the Port of Marseilles where finding another Ship ready to set sail for Malta he took Post for Aix and having dispatch'd his Business return'd the same Night to Marseilles where he embark'd in that Vessel which immediately set sail with a most favourable Westerly Gale and in three Days arriv'd at Malta So that in Seven Days he perform'd a Voyage of eighteen hundred Miles travell'd ten Leagues by Land and dispatch'd his Affairs I must confess few Travellers are so fortunate but that which happens rarely may happen sometimes This Island was of old call'd Melita and its present Name is an Abbreviation or Corruption of the former It lies in the thirty fourth Degree of North Latitude being seventy Miles in compass twenty five long and ten broad Under the Reign of Augustus and long before 't was govern'd by its own Kings from whom it was taken by the Saracens who afterwards lost it to the Christians In the Year 1530 Charles V. erected it into a Sovereignty which he bestow'd on the Knights of S. John who eight Years before were driven out of Rhodes by the Turks and had till then â—rov'd as Pyrates upon the Sea The Conditions of the Donation were That the Nomination of the Bishop shou'd belong to him That the Knights shou'd present him Yearly with a Falcon as a Mark of Homage and that they shou'd not receive into their Ports any Ships or Vessels at Enmity with the Crown of Spain which they punctually observe to this Day But the Spaniard has no reason to boast of this Custom as a peculiar Mark of Honour or Acknowledgment since his Ships meet with the same Treatment with those of other Princes and are never admitted into the Harbours of this Island I 'm so loth to send you an imperfect Account of this Place that I cannot forbear taking notice of the famous Siege which it suffer'd Ann. 1565. tho' I cannot reasonably suppose you to be ignorant of a Transaction that made so great a Noise in the World Sultan Solyman resolving to extirpate the whole Order sent a formidable Army against 'em under the command of Sinan Bassa who possess'd himself of the Island burnt the Villages made the Inhabitants Slaves and destroy'd the whole Country with Fire and Sword But the Castle of S. Angelo put a Stop to his Fury and resisted all his Attacks till upon the News of the approach of the powerful Aids sent by the Christian Princes he was forc'd to make a disorderly Retreat leaving two great pieces of Cannon one of which lies at the bottom of the Water in
one of 'em clutches his right Fist and stretches out one two or three of his Fingers signifying that he intends to present the Cadi with a like number of Purses Then his Adversary makes the same Sign and offers more or less as he thinks fit At Night the Cadi sends for the highest Bidder and having receiv'd his Present requites his Compliment very civilly the next Day with a favourable Sentence after which he that is cast must either pay the Debt immediately or go to Prison And which is still more unjust if you are not able to maintain him and pay the Fees of those who arrested him you must resign the third Part of your Debt in Consideration of which the poor Wretch is kept rotting in the Gaol till an exact Enquiry be made into his Estate And if it be found that the Debt exceeds the Value of his Goods and Possessions the Payment is chang'd to a Corporal Punishment and he receives as many Bastinadoes on the Soals of his Feet as he owes Piastâ—rs unless the Summ exceed 500 for they stop there because the strongest Man cou'd not endure a greater number of Blows without manifest Danger of his Life The Judgment of Criminal Affairs belongs to the Bassa who proceeds after the same manner for Money clears the most barbarous Malefactor and without that Justice degenerates to Cruelty The Stake and the Gibbet seem to be only made for poor Villains nor can there be a greater Sign of Poverty than when a Man is prosecuted for Murder or Robbery for since the Bassa and Vaivode are always sure of 40000 Aspers the usual Price of Blood which they exact of those before whose Doors the Murder was committed they seldom or never take care to execute Justice on the Murderer I have seen a Janisary who had kill'd above 30 Men walk thro' the Streets unmolested and with as much Confidence as the most innocent Person in Town Nor are these corrupt Tribunals less favourable to the Robbers that infest the Country and commit such frequent Disorders that no wise Man will venture to travel one day's Journey without being compleatly arm'd and extremely well accompany'd 'T is true the Grand Signior from time to time sends superiour Bassa's attended with some Companies of Soldiers to search after unpunish'd Malefactors 'T is not above two Months since one of 'em came to this City and put to Death about 20 Criminals but after all these Great Inquisitors are only terrible to those who are unable to buy their Favour and even he whom I mention'd had above fifty Customers of this Sort. Among the rest I shall only take notice of one Instance of his mercenary Clemency and I hope I shall easily obtain your Pardon for a Digression which will not only divert you but give you a clearer Idea of the Genius of the Turkish Officers of Justice A Man that us'd to work in a Dutch Merchant's Garden was seiz'd for a Murder which he had committed 7 or 8 Years before and finding himself to be in a very hopeless Condition sent to beg the Merchant's Assistance who was too generous to suffer one that had serv'd him to be hang'd for wanâ— of 2 or 300 Piasters The poor Man relying upon his Master 's promis'd Kindness began immediately to treat with the Bassa for his Ransom which at last was fix'd at 100 Turkish Pieces of Gold commonly call'd Scherifi worth 2 1 4 Piasters each The Bargain being thus concluded the Merchant gave the hundred Scherifi to the Bassa's Kiaia who deliver'd but ninety to the Treasurer having kept the other ten for himself Now you must know that there are in Turkey a sort of Men who pretend to be Mahomet's Kinsmen and are highly reverenc'd by all Persons They wear green Turbants and are call'd Scherifi which you may remember I told you is the Name of the Pieces of Gold When the Trial came on after the Witnesses were examin'd the Bassa perceiving that there were Ten Pieces wanting of the promis'd Summ and imagining that Defect to be a design'd Breach of the Agreement seem'd to be very nice and inexorable and protested that he cou'd not acquit a Man who was positively charg'd with Murder by so many Witnesses But the Secretary who by good Fortune was acquainted with the whole Transaction told him That tho' these Witnesses declar'd him Guilty there were 100 Scherifi arriv'd who asserted his Innocencey and that their Testimony was much more convincing I thought said the Bassa I saw but 90 'T is true reply'd the Secretary but there were Ten more who by reason of their great Age could not come up to your Presence and therefore staid below with the Kiaia The Bassa who was neither Deaf nor Dull understood the Meaning of those Expressions and declar'd the accus'd Person innocent There are several sorts of Punishments inflicted on Malefactors in this Country such as Beheading Drowning Hanging Strangling Burning Impaling and the Strappado The two last are the most Cruel and are appointed only for Turks that renounce the Mahometan Faith or Renegado's that return to the Profession of the Christian Religion or for those who are convicted of some very enormous Crimes Robbers and Murderers are hang'd Women are drown'd those who are found guilty of Rebellion or Sedition are beheaded and Burning is the Punishment of Christians for blaspheming against Mahomet or the Alcoran or for lying with a Turkish Woman Not long ago an English Merchant at Constantinople very narrowly escap'd Suffering for the last of these Crimes He kept a fair Turk with all imaginable Secrecy and never saw her at his own House To prevent Suspicion he procur'd a very pretty Yacht in which he went with her almost every day to take the Air on the Sea of Marmora or in the Canal of the Black Sea and usually staid abroad till Night But at last the whole Intrigue was discover'd by the Indiscretion of a Servant and they were both apprehended by an Order from the Grand Visier who at first threaten'd to burn the Merchant but was afterwards prevail'd with to accept a Fine of 10000 Piasters which he paid upon the Spot Several Travellers have particularly describ'd the Punishments call'd Impaling and the Strappado as well as the Manner of giving the Bastonnado and therefore I shall forbear troubling you with an Account of what I suppose you know already The Government of the Cities is manag'd by Five Kinds of Officers the Bassa Sub-Bassa Vaivode Cadi and Receiver of the Customs The Bassa is properly the Governor and judges criminal Causes and the Sub-Bassa is as it were his Deputy The Vaivode takes care of regulating Affairs in the City he walks the Round twice a-week to examine the Weights and Measures to observe whether unlicens'd Tipling-Houses are kept to punish Drunken Persons and all those in the general who commit any Disorders in the City Those who are found guilty of these or any other Abuses must immediately submit to the Bastonnado
which a pure Spirit seems incapable of feeling They believe also that the Beasts shall not be depriv'd of the benefit of the Resurrection and that at the Day of Judgment they will give an Account before CHRIST of all the Kindnesses and Injuries they have receiv'd from Men. And this Conceit makes 'em so charitable to Irrational Creatures that some of 'em buy little Birds and live Fishes that they may afterwards set 'em at liberty They fansie themselves polluted by several Things such as Sleeping the touching of a Woman and of all sorts of Excrements and therefore after any such Accident they perform their Ablution or Abdest washing their Face Hands Ears and Feet and looking towards Mecca In the Day they content themselves with washing their Mouth which they repeat as often as they have occasion to obey the necessities of Nature But after Copulation their Ablutions are much more Ceremonious for they wash their whole Body in a Bath as they do also when a drop of Wine falls upon their Garments I have seen some of 'em so extreamly Superstitious that they wou'd never afterwards wear a Vest that was pulluted with Wine tho' there are others of less scrupulous Tempers who never refuse to taste that spirituous Liquor and even some that continue Tipling till they have quite lost their Senses They Pray five times a Day in the Morning at the break of Day at Noon at Three a Clock in the Afternoon at Six in the Evening and an hour after the close of the Evening But they go only twice to the Mosquee to the Sabah in the Morning and to the Quindy at Three in the Afternoon And even many of 'em perform their public Devotions only on Friday which is their Festival-Day as Sunday is ours On that day an Iman or Priest of the Law says a Prayer and delivers a kind of Sermon or Exhortation to the Hearers But the Men are too jealous to suffer any of the Fair Sex to come to the Public Places of Worship The Turkish Lent is shorter but much more severe than that which the Catholicks observe for they neither Eat Drink nor Smoak Tobacco while the Day lasts so that this may be justly reckon'd a very mortifying Season especially when it happens to fall out it Summer considering the violent Heat that reigns throughout all Asia This Fast is call'd Ramadan and lasts Thirty Days during which time the Turks are oblig'd by the Alchoran to begin their Fast every Morning assoon as they can discern a Black Thread from a White and to continue their Abstinence till the same Hour at Night which is proclaim'd by the Muezins and Marabouts from the top of the Minareâ—s Then they let loose the Reins to their wild Desires spending the whole Night in Gluttony and Drunkenness and roaming about the Streets For during this Month they turn the Day into Night and the Night into Day and greedily hunt after all sorts of Pleasures to allay the severity of the Fast which notwithstanding all the Pains they take to sweeten it is very disagreeable to Flesh and Blood It ends with the Moon and every one is so impatient to see the New-Moon that releases 'em from this loath'd Constraint that they run up to the Tops of Houses and Mountains to see their Deliverer rise and assoon as they perceive her gilding the Horizon they salute her with several Bows and the Castles proclaim the glad Tidings with repeated Discharges of their Artillery The Three succeeding Days are spent in Mirth and Jollity every Man puts on his best Cloaths and entertains his Friends This is properly the Turkish Easter and is call'd the Great Bairam to distinguish it from several Feasts or Bairams of less consequence such as that of the Birth of Mahomet c. ' Twou'd be needless to tell you that they neither eat Hog's-Flesh nor drink Wine and that they cannot endure Images for these are things so commonly known and so often repeated by all the Crowd of Travellers that I cannot suppose you to be ignoront of ' em But perhaps you have not so distinct an Idea of the Charity that reigns among ' em Since they believe Alms to be the surest Atonement for Sins they neglect no occasion of buying their future Peace 'T is this Principle that excites 'em to leave considerable Legacies at their Death which according to the Will of the Deceas'd are employ'd in repairing public Fountains building Bridges or paying the Portions of Indigent Maidens I have already told you that their Charity extends even to Beasts and I shall take this occasion to add that they are particularly kind to Dogs tho' naturally they do not love 'em and keep none in their Houses Yet the Cities are full of 'em where they wander about the Streets and perpetuate their Kind like Wild Beasts They are so mangy lean and miserable that one wou'd think they cou'd not live a day and I have seen some of 'em at Constantinople so near Starving that they wou'd jump into the Sea for some Bits of Carrion which they perceiv'd at the bottom However since they cou'd not possibly live on what they find in the Streets the richer sort of Turks buy Provisions for 'em and feed 'em every Morning at their Doors with Eleemosinary Bread and Flesh They reckon it a heinous Crime to kill a Dog Cat Horse or any other Creature that is not appointed for the Food and Nourishment of Mankind For they pretend that since Man is not the Author of their Life he ought not to deprive 'em of it I shall take this occasion to relate the Story of an Accident that happen'd in this place not above eight days ago There was a Dog that us'd always to howl when he heard the Muezin calling the People to Prayers from the Minaret The Turks who are Superstitious even beyond Imagination cou'd not behold their most Holy Rites profan'd by an Impudent Cur without an extream Indignation Yet they durst not kill him for fear of offending GOD. However they found out a way to chastise the daring Criminal without provoking the Wrath of Heaven For notwithstanding all their Veneration for his Person they were loath to allow him greater Privileges than they claim for themselves After mature deliberation on such a weighty and important Case they ventur'd at last to seize him and carry him before the Cadi where they Indicted him as a Dgiahour or Christian who derided the Law of the Prophet The Evidence was so plain that after a full Hearing poor Towzer was condemn'd to be Cudgel'd to Death and the Sentence was immediately executed Perhaps the oddness of this Relation may make you suspect my Veracity so far as to imagine that I Invented it on purpose to divert you But in short you must either believe it or in plain Terms give me the Lye 'T is true I dare not warrant the truth of the Story I 'm going to tell you but since it relates to the same
Catalogue of the rare Curiosities that are to be seen either in the Church or Treasury since you will find 'em all particularly describ'd in a Treatise written by Monsieur de S. Didier 'T is Pity the Venetians shou'd have lost the Body of their good Patron S. Mark and that their Loss shou'd be attended with this mortifying Circumstance that they know neither the Time nor Occasion of it 'T is true the common People believe that he retir'd into a Pillar which they shew'd me and that he thrust his Hand out of that Column when he gave the Ring to the Doge but most of 'em scruple not to confess that they know not where he is nor whither he went They made me also take Notice of a Stone which they pretend is the same that yielded Water to the Israelites when they were tormented with Thirst in the Wilderness If this be true we must allow that Rock a Power to multiply its Kind for 't is still to be seen in the Desarts of Arabia between Sues and Tor as I have heard several credible Persons affirm as well Christians as Turks and Moors who assure me that it stands by it self in the midst of a Sandy Desart and that one may both easily perceive the Holes that gave a Passage to the Water and discern the very Track or Print that was made by the Stream The next place in Venice that claims a particular Observation is the Arsenal which is certainly the best furnish'd Magazine in the World For tho' it contains no less than two Miles in Compass 't is fill'd and even crowded with Cannons Bombs Granadoes Muskets Sabres Gun-powder Ropes Sails Anchors c. To give you an Estimate of the prodigious Quantity of Ammunition that is hoarded up in this Place 't will be sufficient to tell you that in case of Necessity 't is sufficient to arm and equip fifteen Galleys four Galeasses as many Ships and a hundred thousand Men. The Arsenal is govern'd by three Nobles and under them by the Pilot of the Republic whom they call the Admiral who is entrusted with the Care and Inspection both of the Stores and of two or three hundred Men that are constantly kept at Work He never goes to Sea but once a Year to steer the Bucentaur on ascension-Ascension-Day when the Duke accompany'd by all the Nobles performs the Ceremony of Wedding the Sea They set so high a Value upon this Vessel that the Pilot is oblig'd under Pain of Death to bring it back in Safety which makes him so cautious in observing the Weather that when he perceives any Clouds or the least Appearance of a Wind on the Day appointed for the Solemnity he procures it to be delay'd till the next Sunday 'T is the Opinion of one That Venice contains Four hundred Palaces fit to receive and entertain a King This is certainly a very bold Assertion and yet I dare not positively contradict it for the Palaces are so Numerous and Magnificent that I may venture without a Hyperbole to affirm that they are sufficient to adorn Ten Cities On the great Canal alone there are at least Two hundred which seem to out-rival one another whether you consider the Boldness of the Design or the Fineness of the Structure and confound the amaz'd Spectatour with so vast a Medley of different Beauties that he knows not which to prefer or where to point at the Principal Object of his Admiration If your Curiosity shou'd lead you out of the City to take a View of the neighbouring Continent especially towards Padua you wou'd be tempted to fansie your self among the Habitations of the Gods for every Palace resembles a Magnificent Temple adorn'd with all the most exquisite Beauties of Architecture It must be acknowledg'd that the Italians and particularly the Venetians are the best Architects in the World and that the finest Houses in France are not comparable to these Palaces on the Outside I shall take this Occasion to give you a general Idea of their Manner of Building The Height of the Edifice is exactly proportion'd to its Bigness according to the nicest Rules of Architecture The Houses are cover'd with fine Platforms where a Man may enjoy the Pleasure of walking without going out of his own House and when he grows weary may either sit down on the Benches or rest on the Balisters that surround the Platform The Fronts of the Houses are adorn'd with Portico's Columns Balconies at the Windows Frizes Festoons Niches and Statues These Ornaments are accompany'd with Courts Anti-Courts delicious Gardens Fountains Grotto's and all the other Embellishments that a luxurious Fancy can contrive I can assure you that this is a true and faithful Representation of these glorious Edifices and I leave you to judge whether they may not justly be call'd Palaces and whether any thing cou'd give a higher Idea of the Grandeur of the Venetian Nobles The main Reason in my Opinion that makes 'em employ so great a part of their Treasure in Building is because they are not permitted to display their Magnificence any other way For since they are not suffer'd to consume their Money in splendid Equipages and rich Habits 't is plain they must either build or find some other way to bestow their superfluous Cash And 't is probably the same Restraint that tempts 'em to throw away such vast quantities of Money on Courtezans and at Play You wou'd hardly believe me if I shou'd tell you what prodigious Summs are consum'd every Year at Bassette especially during the Carnaval when the Ridotti or Gaming-Houses are open None are admitted into these Houses without Masks that all sorts of People may enjoy an equal Liberty and that there may be no Occasion for Disputes nor any Marks of Distinction in a place where every one is welcome for his Money and where there is always a confus'd Medley of Noblemen Citizens Ladies and Courtezans Yet this Order is not observ'd with the utmost Rigour for one that has a false Nose or counterfeit Whiskers is held to be sufficiently Mask'd The Nobles keep the Bank and relieve one another by turns from Morning till Night They bear good or bad Fortune without discovering the least Alteration either in their Countenance or Humour and seem as little concern'd when they lose a Thousand Sequins by one Card as when they gain One by another I have had Occasion two or three times to see the Bank broke but cou'd never perceive the least Sign of Disturbance in the unfortunate Gamester And which is no less surprizing I have seen other Noblemen continue to play with the Loser upon his bare Word to the Value of Ten thousand Ducats which were always punctually paid next Morning 'T is true the Loss does not fall wholly upon one Person for there are sometimes a Hundred of 'em join'd together and this is perhaps the main Reason that makes 'em bear their Misfortunes so patiently Besides the Bank is seldom a Loser at the last
Preci Prami and Sia which they understand so well that immediately they turn their Gondola's and pass by without touching one another These Gondola's which are all made after the same Fashion from that which belongs to the first Procurator to those that are commonly hir'd are a sort of flat-bottom'd narrow and very long Boats In the middle there is a little Chamber cover'd with course black Serge with an Opening before instead of a Door and on each Side there is a Window that may be shut with Curtains or sometimes with a Piece of the same Serge which hangs at the Top of the Gondola and is usually turn'd up in fair Weather The Price of a Gondola ready made amounts to five and twenty Ducats but in those that belong to some of the principal Noblemen there are Grates that sometimes cost above a Hundred Crowns and besides the Windows may be adorn'd with Glasses like those that are us'd on Coaches which is all the Embellishment that is allow'd by the Republick The meanest Gondolier earns half a Ducat a Day and there are some who will not serve under a Crown So that considering that every Gondola requires four Men it will be found at the End of the Reckoning that one of these Boats consumes as much Money as the keeping of a Coach and Six Horses The Ceremony of the Bucentaur according to the usual Custom was succeeded by a very magnificent Feast that lasted Fifteen Days This may be reckon'd a second Carnaval and does really exceed the first 'T is true there are no Opera's nor Comedies but that Defect is more than supply'd by the enlivening Beauty of the Season and by one of the finest and richest Fairs in Europe which is kept in the Place of S. Mark and in the Broglio where the Shops are rank'd with such a harmonious Proportion and Uniformity that one wou'd think it were a City purposely built for Pleasure The Street of the Goldsmiths and that of the Mercers are extremely magnificent for the Shops are full of the richest Commodities and every Morning and Evening one may have the Pleasure to see the best Company in Town and especially the Ladies who come to oblige the longing Spectators with a View of their Charms and to make Strangers confess that they are better furnish'd with the noblest Ornament of their Sex than all the most celebrated Beauties in other Countries And I cannot forbear adding upon this Occasion that the Liberty I observ'd in this Place seems to be altogether inconsistent with the Slavery which these fair ones are said to suffer 'T is certain that the Ladies in this Place are more closely confin'd than in France but their Restraint is not so severe as we commonly imagine 'T is true 't wou'd be thought indecent for a Woman to walk or to entertain a private Discourse with those of our Sex nor is it usual for Ladies to make Matches for Gaming But to make amends for these Niceties they are permitted to see Opera's and Plays to go to the Ridotti the Fresco and Fairs and to walk about the Streets in Masquerade either alone or in Company I leave you to judge whether their Confinement be so rigorous as 't is usually represented and whether they have reason to complain of the Severity of their Husbands For my part I 'm apt to think that there are few Men in France or Holland that wou'd willingly allow their Wives the Liberty to go abroad without any other Company than one or two Maids and after they have run Masqu'd about the Streets all Day long to pop into a publick Gaming-House where there are more Courtesans than any other Company This is the usual Recreation of the Venetian Ladies which they daily use without exposing themselves to their Husband's Anger or the Censure of their Neighbours tho' in such Frolicks they meet with many a fair Opportunity of indulging themselves in more criminal Diversions for they are perpetually surrounded with Temptations and 't is impossible for a Lady to ramble about a whole Day without hearing Twenty Compliments of that Nature 'T is the Custom of the Place and the particular Privilege both of the Carnaval and Fair that any Man may demand the last Favour of a Woman whom he finds alone in a Vizor-Mask for that Circumstance alone gives her the Denomination of Signora Mascara and she 's reckon'd as lawful Prize as if she were cloath'd in the obscenest and most extravagant Garb. You may freely accost any Woman that wears this Badge without putting off your Hat or using any other Ceremony whatsoever but if they return no Answer to your second or third Question you may leave off your Courtship and conclude that they will not be debauch'd Nevertheless 't is highly dangerous to use the same Freedom with a Lady that walks without a Mask for in such Cases we are only allow'd the Privilege of Gazing and Wishing and all other Liberties are so rigorously prohibited that the highest Affront that can be offer'd to a Woman is to salute her for none but Curtezans will permit that Freedom These Masquerades are not only very diverting but extremely commodious for several sorts of People How many Persons are there who wou'd be confin'd to their Houses by the Gravity of their Character if such a Disguise did not give 'em an Opportunity of sharing in the publiâ— Diversions How many Princes Dukes Procurators and other Persons of high Quality take the Advantage of so savourable an Occasion to shake off that Load of Grandeur with which they are continually oppress'd and breaking loose from their gawdy Prisons ramble about Incognito among the Crowd and find more Pleasure in personating a Citizen or Tradesman than ever they cou'd enjoy in their Palaces For a Mask has this admirable Quality that it can in a Moment transform a Prince into a Porter and one of the greatest Advantages of such a surprizing Metamorphosis is that every Man may resume his own Figure when he pleases If we may believe the Venetians a certain Great Prince who is known over all the World scrupl'd not to act a part in these agreeable Frolicks The whole Carnaval and the Festival after Ascension-Day is spent in Masquerading and all that while there seems to be a New Republic form'd in the midst of the other There is an universal Change in the Habits Customs and Laws All Marks of Distinction and Superiority are forgotten or at least neglected All Persons are or seem to be equal Respect Constraint Ceremony Care and Business are banish'd from Society and are succeeded by Joy Liberty and an agreeable Sort of Folly Under this Disguise many pleasant Intrigues are carry'd on and Strangers are oblig'd to that Concealer of Blushes for many a happy Moment I know one that was accosted by a Lady who carry'd him to a little House where having open'd the Door with a Key that she had in her Pocket she put him in Possession of a thousand charming Beauties
yet all his Arguments and Intreaties cou'd not procure him a sight of her Face for her Mask was ty'd on with a Silver Chain fasten'd with a little Padlock But the strangest Mascara that ever I had occasion to see or perhaps that ever appear'd in Venice was a Woman who came to the Fair cover'd from Head to Foot with a sort of long Gown or Shroud She had no Clothes under it not so much as a Smock and from time to time she open'd her Gown and oblig'd the Company with a full View of her Wares Thus she walk'd three or four times about the Fair and was doubtless very narrowly and attententively view'd by the Spectators This Frollick was thought to be occasion'd by a Wager During the Fair the whole Place of S. Mark and part of the Broglio is cover'd with Shops The other part is full of Juglers Tumblers Puppet-Players Bears and Mountebanks who are dancing frequented by all sorts of People from the Nobleman to the Gondelier But the greatest Croud is about certain Female-Astrologers who are mounted on little Stages or Scaffolds cover'd with Lace and Ribbons like Puppets their Faces painted white and red and surrounded with a great Number of Books full of Figures and Characters tho' they understand no more of 'em than to distinguish the White from the Black There are also some Men who follow the same Trade but they are not so much follow'd as the Women whose triple Top-knots draw the Multitude after ' em They sit upon a Chair from whence asâ—from a Tripos they blow good Fortune to their Customers thro' a Tin Trunk eight or ten Foot long the Querist putting the other End to his Ear. The Price of a Consultation is no more than Five-pence and for so small a Summ you may have the Promise of as much Honour and Riches as you please These Wenches who sometimes are not ugly observe an admirable Gravity in pronouncing their Responses but they are not so starch'd in private and may be easily prevail'd with to lay aside their affected Severity One of my Friends who is a Germain Officer happen'd t'other Day to try the Experiment and since the Story is not unpleasant I shall make bold to entertain you with it As we were taking our Diversion in the Fair we took particular Notice of one of those She-Astrologers who was one of the prettyest and gravest of the whole Tribe She was surrounded with a Croud of People of all Ages and Ranks who approach'd one after another to the End of her Trunk to learn their Fate and to hear the Oraculous Sentences which she pronounc'd with an incredible Majesty and Authority My Friend took his Turn among the rest and after she had acquainted him with his Fortune told her that he was desirous to consult her about some private Affair and therefore intreated her to turn the other End of the Trunk that he might communicate his Secret to her without disclosing it to the Company But instead of proposing some Questions to her about his Fortune he told her thro' her Trunk that he came not to desire the Assistance of her pretended Art which serv'd only to amuse the Vulgar that 't was in her Power to grant him a more solid Favour and that his Business was to enquire where and when he might spend a Night with her Assoon as she had heard his Proposal she turn'd the Trunk and reply'd that he ought not to be surpriz'd at her way of Living by imposing upon the Credulity of the People since the only Occupation of the greatest part of Mankind consisted in cheating one another every one in his own Way and according to the Nature of his Employment and that for her part she thought five or six Crowns a day but a moderate Recompence for the Pains she took in deceiving those that were willing to be deceiv'd adding however that she was glad she had found a Man of Sense that knew the Infirmities of Humane Nature and wou'd laugh with her at the Follies of Mankind and concluded with giving him an Assignation at an Inn where she promis'd to meet him that Evening Her agreeable Humour furnish'd us with Matter of Discourse for above an Hour but this was the End of the Adventure for the Officer did not think fit to drive the Jest further Tho' the Summer is scarce begun the Heat is already so violent that every one endeavours to make it less insupportable by the Thinness and Lightness of his Clothes Now I speak of Habits I wish you cou'd see that which is us'd by the Girls that visit the Fair every Day to look out for a Customer For every Mother that is willing to be rid of her Daughter carries her thither every Day as to a Market with all the alluring Ornaments of an advantageous Dress They have large and very fine Top-knots their Neck and Breasts are bare and their Habit consists chiefly of a little Cloak or Mantle of white Muslin adorn'd with red Ribbons a single Petticoat of the same Cloth a neat Pair of Shooes and Silk-Stockins exactly fitted to their Legs There is nothing more proper to inspire Love than the sight of those young Creatures who for the most part are charming Beauties nor is a Man forc'd to purchase his Happiness at the Rate of a tedious Courtship for assoon as he feels Nature begin to work he may immediately address himself to the Mother who is always ready to make the Bargain But tho' it will not cost you a Sigh to gain your Mistress's Heart you must pay dear for the Enjoymnent of her Person for you cannot purchase a handsome Maiden-Girl under 150 Crowns in hand and as much every Year for Entertainment For 200 you may have the Choice of the Market where you may find some that look like little Angels Nor are you oblig'd to buy a Pig in a Poke for you may view and handle her as much as you will and examine your Commodity both with your Eyes and Hands before you agree upon the Price As for the Maiden-head if the Mother promise to warrant it you may depend upon her word for these Matrons are too conscientious to impose second-hand Goods upon a Customer and besides they dare not venture upon a Cheat which they believe may be so easily discover'd For 't is as impossible to root this Opinion out of the Minds of the Italians as of the Oriental Nations and whether it be true or false 't is attended with this advantageous Consequence that it makes the young Women very careful of preserving their Treasure since they believe it impossible to conceal the Loss of it at least it has this Effect on those who intend to marry But they who pretend only to be kept are not so nice for tho' they take care to preserve their Maiden-head they never scruple to allow a Man all the Liberties that can be us'd without deflowring ' em I know a Woman that has three Daughters the
Ottoman Empire are reputed Slaves live here under the Protection of a Magistrate who has the Title of Consul This Happiness which ought to be so much the dearer to the Greeks of this Island because 't is peculiar to themselves is only a continuation of the Favours bestow'd on 'em by Mahomet II. when he made himself Master of Greece For the Sciots perceiving that 't wou'd be in vain to resist an Enemy who had lately taken Constantinople from the Palaeologi and was still Victorious in all his Attempts resolv'd to mitigate his Fury by a voluntary submission and own'd themselves his Subjects perhaps before he thought of Attaking ' em Mahomet was so well satisfi'd with this Mark of their Affection that he granted 'em several advantageous Priviledges which they still enjoy For the Turks are very Religious observers of their Promises to their own Subjects tho' they scruple not to violate Treaties concluded with Neighbouring Princes especially Christians and Heretical Mahometans such as the Persians of whom the Turks have almost as bad an Opinion as the Roman Catholicks have of Protestants because the Persians embrace the Doctrine of one Haly who pretended to reform the Mahometan Religion as Luther and Calvin have Reform'd the Christian At that time the Island was possess'd by the Justiniani with the Title of a Principality under the Protection of the Genoese who were then Masters of many fine Countries in Natolia as it appears by the Escutcheons and Arms of the Republic which are still to be seen almost at every end of a Field There is but one City in the Island and that a very small one tho' it has eight Gates The Streets are broad enough for Coaches and the beauty of the old Houses is a sign of the richness and splendor of their ancient Possessors The Castle is not much less than the City and Commands both that and the Port Yet some Years ago the Marquis Du Quesne had the Courage to attack some Pirates who retirâ—d under its Walls and fir'd above fifty Broad-sides into the City because the Bassa made a shew of resisting him This attempt caus'd so great a Consternation among the Inhabitants that their fears continue even after the Marquiss's Death and they still tremble when they hear his Name mention'd The French are very proud of this Expedition tho' 't is certain they have no great reason to boast of it since it cost the Nation 100000 Crowns which Fabre the French Agent pay'd to the Grand Visier This was in my Opinion a sufficient reparation to the Turks and there was no Honour got by so vigorous an Action but that which is due to the Memory of the brave Man that perform'd it 'T is equally difficult to enter the Port and to get out of it as our Captain has found to his cost For the charge of maintaining the Ships Company amounts at least to 60 Livres a day and I believe he wou'd willingly give 30 Louis d' Ors to be at Sea again The Government of Scio is a very considerable Post and the Bassa is oftentimes advanc'd to the Dignity of Grand Visier 'T is not above a Year since Kopergli Oglou was remov'd from this place and made Visier after the Death of Ismael He has under him a Kiaia a Kady a Vaivoide and a Receiver of Customs as all other Bassa's have The Last of these Officers has more Employment here than in most other places by reason of the Mastic that grows in this Island better and more plentiful than in any other part of the World There are above a Thousand Chests of it gather'd every Year each of which contains Three Hundred Weight and the total Value amounts to above 200000 Crowns But the Inhabitants are not much enrich'd by so considerable a Trade For they are not only oblig'd to pay one half of the Mastic by way of Tribute but must sell the rest at a very low rate to the Receiver of Customs 'T is a white odoriferous Gumm that runs in the Spring out of little holes which are made in the Bark of a small weak and twining Shrub that creeps along the Ground as Vines wou'd do if they were not supported I have not hitherto had occasion to see any remarkable Church in this Island but that which is call'd Niaomai 'T is a very ancient Building and adorn'd with a piece of Mosaic Work like that of Sancta Sophia I will not trouble you with the Story of its Miraculous Image since all these Legends are only the same Tale repeated with some small alterations The Greeks believe and maintain these Impostures with a great deal of Zeal and even the Turks who abhorr the Christian Religion worse than Magic are sometimes cheated by 'em For when they hear that one of the Saints cures such a Distemper they procure Masses to be said and present Candles with as much Devotion as the most Superstitious Greek I shall take this occasion to relate an accident that happen'd not long ago in this place and perhaps you will not think your time ill imploy'd in reading so odd and diverting a Story You have doubtless heard of St. Anthony of Padua who is the Padrone Singularo of all the Italians and has acquir'd so great a Reputation of working Miracles that tho' he was a declar'd Papist and more than that a Monk of the Order of St. Francis the Greeks have plac'd him among their Tutelar Saints and sing Kyrie Eleison's to him with as much Devotion as to St. Polycarp himself He has a Magnificent Chapel in this place and in it a Wooden Image which is very well painted gilt and crown'd and wants neither He nor She Votaries in abundance His Miracles are the only subject of the common Talk Some own themselves oblig'd to him for Husbands and others for Wives sometimes he heals a broken Leg and saves others from Ship-wrack and in a word I know not one Person here who has not receiv'd some Marks of his Favour 'T is true he 's apt to grow sullen and woe be to the poor Suppliants when little St. Anthony takes the pet for he 'll e'en let 'em cry their Eyes out without deigning to take notice of 'em However there is no Disease without its Remedy and a few smart Lashes about the Shoulders usually cures him of the Spleen But when the Distemper is very stubborn and the Dose of the Whip proves ineffectual they either turn him out of his Lodging and make him lie abroad in the Wind and Rain or dip him ten or twelve times in Water with a great Stone at his Neck which always produces the desir'd effect and makes the little Gentleman as Complaisant as they can wish One of the Turks in the Castle who had ventur'd all his Stock on Board a Saique and was afraid of losing it either by Storm or Piracy resolv'd to steal St. Anthony of whom he had heard so many Wonders and either by fair or foul means to make
him preserve his Goods He waited some time for a convenient opportunity to put his design in execution and one day perceiving that there were none in the Church but himself he hid the miraculous Image under his Vest and carri'd it away undiscover'd As soon as he came home he set it in the most honourable Place of his House adorn'd it with Flowers and kept two Wax Candles perpetually burning before it addreffing himself to it every day with a great deal of Reverence and humbly acquainting it that his whole Estate was on board the Saique and that the Loss of that wou'd entirely ruine him and his Family Thus he continu'd as long as he might reasonably hope that the Saique was safe but when the time was expir'd in which he expected to hear of its Return he took away the Flowers and Candles and began to treat the Image very roughly beating it every day and threatning a worse Usage if he shou'd find that it had neglected his Saique Thou infamous Christian said he think'st thou to mock a Musulman whose Slave thou art not worthy to be By Mahomet if thou dost not restore my Saique I 'll beat thee to Pieces In the mean time both the Greeks and Romanists were extremely griev'd for the Loss of their Saint and their Consternation was the greater because they cou'd not imagine him to be stoll'n away since he was only made of Wood. The Cordeliers had not the least Share in the common Affliction but since they have an admirable Faculty of improving every thing to the best Advantage they declar'd publickly that the Saint was not able longer to endure the Coldness of the Peoples Devotion and had therefore withdrawn his Presence from among ' em And even an old Father dream'd that S. Anthony appear'd to him and said My Son I have left this City because I was no longer able to be a Witness of the Crimes that are daily committed in it and the Want of Love to God and Zeal to his Service The good Man related his Dream to the People and exhorted 'em to recall the Saint by Prayers Vows and above all by a great number of Masses At last the Turk heard of the safe Arrival of the Saique with his Goods so that thinking himself oblig'd in Conscience to release the Saint out of his Prison he carry'd him back with a great deal of Honour and told the whole Story The Image was very joyfully receiv'd by the Christians who look'd upon this as a New Miracle which re-kindl'd their Devotion to such a Degree that it can never be more ardent than 't is at present the Turk also gave 100 Piasters as anâ— Acknowledgment of the Favour he had receiv'd and the Fathers order'd the Money to be cast into a silver Chain with which they fasten'd the Image to prevent its being stoll'n hereafter for they consider'd that People are always apt to follow a bad Example and that they might perhaps miss their Saint when they shou'd have most need of him This Accident has convinc'd me of a Truth I cou'd never believe before I mean that Superstition may bear such an absolute Sway in the Minds of those who are under its Power that even Turks and Christians may join together in some Rites of Devotion I confess I was so far from giving Credit to Relations of this Nature that I could hardly believe my own Eyes on a like Occasion at Lampedusa where we touch'd in our Voyage to Malta But since I am now of another Opinion I shall take this Occasion to acquaint you with an Observation I made there which I durst not mention so long as I thought it impossible There is in that Island a little Chapel dedicated to the Virgin in which there is an Altar and a Coffin with a Turbant laid upon it which is usually call'd Mahomet's Tomb. Both Turks and Christians have so great a Veneration for this Chapel that they never pass it by without leaving Money Victuals or some other Offering At our Arrival we found two large and fresh Pastaiques a Sequin of Gold some silver Aspers and small Coin of Malta to which our Captain added a French Piece of Three-pence half-peny Our Pilot told me that these Offerings were design'd for the Relief of poor Slaves who oftentimes escap'd thither from Malta and Afric adding that the Place was so Sacred and Miraculous that none but Slaves durst take any of these things from the Altar or if they did that they could not possibly get out of the Island He related also several Instances of these Miracles but all his Arguments and Stories could not hinder me from eating one of the Pastaiques for the Weather was very hot and you know that those who are not accustom'd to the Sea are usually very desirous of Fruit. To return to Scio. I went t'other day to see a Place call'd the Schools of Homer tho' according to all probability there were never any Schools in it I incline rather to believe that 't was formerly a Place where Sacrifices were offer'd to the God Pan or some other Rural Deity for I saw nothing but a square Altar cut out of a Rock on the Shore with some decay'd Basso-Relievo's on the Sides among which you may distinguish the Representation of an Oxe Wolf Sbeep and Rabbet besides some other Beasts which are less distinct Not far from thence I saw a paltry Village where they assur'd me Homer was born but Smyrna pretends a better Title to the Honour of being the Birth-place of that great Man I observ'd nothing else remarkable in this Island except their Manner of Living which is extremely free for they give and receive Visits make Entertainments and the Women sit at the Doors of the Houses and walk with Young Men to the Fields with as much Liberty as if they were in France Besides they are of a very sociable Humour and any Frenchman who is Master of a tolerable Stock of Wit may quickly find a Mistress and even sometimes an advantageous Match in this Place For 't is the highest Ambition of the Women of this Island to marry a Frank both because they are naturally of a freer Temper than the Men of the Country and are not subject to the Grand Signior nor consequently pay any Avanies Taxes or Imposts which are two very considerable Advantages This is the only Island in the Levant where the Custom of wearing long Garments does not prevail for the Sciots retain'd the Fashion us'd by the Franks after their Subjection to the Turks They still use Doublets or Wast-coats Breeches and Shooes and besides they wear their Hair long but we have chang'd so many Fashions since that time that they who have still kept that which was then in use appear very ridiculous at present Their Hats have broad Brims not cock'd up and tapering Crowns somewhat resembling a Sugar-Loaf the Sleeves of their Doublets are wide and open but close at the Wrist their Breeches are open