accept of them for fear of disobliging by our refusal But the Coco-nuts Plantains Fowls Eggs Fish and Rice we kept for our use The Malayans that accompanied us from Nicobar separated themselves from us now living at one end of the house by themselves for they were Mahometans as all those of the Kingdom of Achin are and though during our passage by Sea together we made them content to drink their water out of the same Coco-shell with us yet being now no longer under that necessity they again took up their accustomed nicety and reservedness They all lay sick and as their sickness increas'd one of them threatned us that if any of them died the rest should kill us for having brought them this Voyage yet I question whether they would have attempted or the Country people have suffer'd it We made a shift to dress our own food for none of these people though they were very kind in giving us any thing that we wanted would yet come near us to assist us in dressing our victuals nay they would not touch any thing that we used We had all Fevers and therefore took turns to dress victuals according as we had strength to do it or stomachs to eat I found my Fever to encrease and my head so distempered that I could scarce stand therefore I whetted and sharpened my Penknife in order to let my self blood but I could not for my Knife was too blunt We stayed here 10 or 12 days in hopes to recover our health but finding no amendment we desired to go to Achin But we were delayed by the Natives who had a desire to have kept Mr. Hall and my self to sail in their Vessels to Malucca Cudda or to other places whither they Trade But finding us more desirous to be with our Country-men in our Factory at Achin they provided a large Proe to carry us thither we not being able to manage our own Canoa Besides before this 3 of our Malayan Comrades were gone very sick into the Country and only one of them and the Portuguese remained with us accompanying us to Achin and they both as sick as we It was the beginning of June 1688 when we left Passange Jonca We had 4 men to row one to steer and a Gentleman of the Country that went purposely to give an information to the Government of our arrival We were but 3 days and nights in our passage having Sea Breezes by day and Land Winds by night and very fair Weather When we arrived at Achin I was carry'd before the Shabander the chief Magistrate in the City One Mr. Dennis Driscall an Irish man and a Resident there in the Factory which our East-India Company had there then was Interpreter I being weak was suffer'd to stand in the Shabander's presence for it is their custom to make men sit on the floor as they do cross-legg'd like Taylors but I had not strength then to pluck up my heels in that manner The Shabander asked of me several questions especially how we durst adventure to come in a Canoa from the Nicobar Island to Sumatra I told him that I had been accustomed to hardships and hazards therefore I did with much freedom undertake it He inquired also concerning our Ship whence she came c. I told him from the South Seas that she had ranged about the Philippine Islands c. and was now gone towards Arabia and the Red Sea The Malayans also and Portuguese were afterward examined and confirmed what I declared and in less than half an hour I was dismist with Mr. Driscal who then lived in the English East India Companies Factory He provided a Room for us to lye in and some Victuals Three days after our arrival here our Portuguese died of a Fever What became of our Malayans I know not Ambrose lived not long after Mr. Hall also was so weak that I did not think he would recover I was the best yet still very sick of a Fever and little likely to live Therefore Mr. Driscal and some other Englishmen perswaded me to take some purging Physick of a Malayan Doctor I took their advice being willing to get ease but after 3 Doses each a large Calabash of nasty Stuff finding no amendment I thought to desist from more Physick but was perswaded to take one Dose more which I did and it wrought so violently that I thought it would have ended my days I struggled till I had been about 20 or 30 times at stool but it working so quick with me with little intermission and my strength being almost spent I even threw my self down once for all and had above 60 stools in all before it left off working I thought my Malayan Doctor whom they so much commended would have killed me outright I continued extraordinary weak for some days after his drenching me thus but my Fever left me for above a week after which it returned upon me again for a twelve month and a Flux with it However when I was a little recover'd from the effects of my Drench I made a shift to go abroad and having been kindly invited to Captain Bowrey's House there my first visit was to him who had a Ship in the Road but lived ashore This Gentleman was extraordinary kind to us all particularly to me and importuned me to go his Boatswain to Persia whither he was bound with a design to sell his Ship there as I was told tho not by himself From thence he intended to pass with the Caravan to Aleppo and so home for England His business requir'd him to stay some time longer at Achin I judge to sell some commodities that he had not yet disposed of Yet he chose rather to leave the disposal of them to some Merchant there and make a short trip to the Nicobar Islands in the mean time and on his return to take in his effects and so proceed towards Persia. This was a sudden resolution of Captain Bowry's presently after the arrival of a small Frigot from Siam with an Ambassador from the King of Siam to the Queen of Achin The Ambassador was a Frenchman by Nation The Vessel that he came in was but small yet very well mann'd and fitted for a fight Therefore it was generally supposed here that Captain Bowry was afraid to lye in Achin Road because the Siamers were now at Wars with the English and he was not able to defend his Ship if he should be attackt by them But whatever made him think of going to the Nicobar Islands he provided to sail and took me Mr. Hall and Ambrose with him tho all of us so sick and weak that we could do him no service It was some time about the beginning of June when we sailed out of Achin Road but we met with the Winds at N. W. with turbulent weather which forced us back again in 2 days time Yet he gave us each 12 Mess a piece a Gold Coyn each of which is about the value of 15 pence English
pains a Hatchet and his bargain was to bring us to a certain Indians habitation who could speak Spanish from whom we were in hopes to be better satisfied of our Journey The 3d day having fair weather we began to stir betimes and set out betwixt 6 and 7 a Clock marching through several old ruined Plantations This morning one of our men being tired gave us the slip By 12 a Clock we had gone 8 mile and arrived at the Indians house who lived on the bank of the River Congo and spake very good Spanish to whom we declared the reason of this visit At first he seemed to be very dubious of entertaining any discourse with us and gave very impertinent answers to the questions that we demanded of him he told us he knew no way to the North side of the Country but could carry us to Cheapo or to Santa Maria which we knew to be Spanish Garrisons the one lying to the Eastward of us the other to the Westward Either of them at least 20 miles out of our way We could get no other answer from him and all his discourse was in such an angry tone as plainly declared he was not our friend However we were forced to make a virtue of necessity and humour him for it was neither time nor place to be angry with the Indians all our lives lying in their hand We were now at a great loss not knowing what course to take for we tempted him with Beads Money Hatchets Macheats or long Knives but nothing would work on him till one of our men took a Sky-coloured Petticoat out of his bag and put it on his Wife who was so much pleased with the Present that she immediately began to chatter to her Husband and soon brought him into a better humour He could then tell us that he knew the way to the North side and would have gone with us but that he had cut his foot 2 days before which made him uncapable of serving us himself But he would take care that we should not want a guide and therefore he hired the same Indian who brought us hither to conduct us 2 days march further for another Hatchet The old man would have stayed us here all the day because it rained very hard but our business required more haste our Enemies lying so near us for he told us that he could go from his house aboard the Guard Ship in a Tydes time and this was the 4th day since they saw us So we marched 3 mile farther and then built Hutts where we stayed all night it rained all the afternoon and the greatest part of the night The 4th day we began our march betimes for the forenoons were commonly fair but much rain afternoon tho whether it rained or shined it was much at one with us for I verily believe we crost the Rivers 30 times this day the Indians having no paths to travel from one part of the Country to another and therefore guiding themselves by the Rivers We marched this day 12 miles and then built our Hutts and lay down to sleep but we always kept two men on the watch otherwise our own Slaves might have knockt us on head while we slept It rained violently all the afternoon and most part of the night We had much ado to kindle a fire this evening our Hutts were but very mean and ordinary and our Fire small so that we could not dry our Cloaths scarce warm our selves and no sort of food for the Belly all which made it very hard with us I confess these hardships quite expell'd the thoughts of an Enemy for now having been 4 days in the Country we began to have but few other cares than how to get Guides and Food the Spaniards were seldom in our thoughts The 5th day we set out in the morning betimes and having travelled 7 miles in those wild pathless Woods by 10 a clock in the morning we arrived at a young Spanish Indian's house who had formerly lived with the Bishop of Panama The young Indian was very brisk spoke very good Spanish and received us very kindly This Plantation afforded us store of Provision Yams and Potatoes but nothing of any flesh beside two fat Monkeys we shot part whereof we destributed to some of our Company who were weak and sickly for others we got Eggs and such refreshments as the Indians had for we still provided for the sick and weak We had a Spanish Indian in our Company who first took up Arms with Captain Sawkins and had been with us ever since his death He was perswaded to live here by the master of the house who promised him his Sister in marriage and to be assistant to him in clearing a Plantation but we would not consent to part from him here for fear of some treachery but promised to release him in two or three days when we were certainly out of danger of our Enemies We stayed here all the Afternoon and dryed our Cloaths and Ammunition cleared our Guns and provided our selves for a march the next morning Our Chyrurgeon Mr. Wafer came to a sad disaster here Being drying his Powder a careless fellow passed by with his Pipe lighted and set fire to his Powder which blew up and scortch'd his Knee and reduced him to that condition that he was not able to march wherefore we allowed him a slave to carry his things being all of us the more concern'd at the accident because lyable our selves every moment to misfortune and none to look after us but him This Indian Plantation was seated on the bank of the River Congo in a very fat Soyl and thus far we might have come in our Canoa if I could have perswaded them to it The 6th day we set out again having hired another guide Here we first crost the River Congo in a Canoa having been from our first Landing on the West side of the River and being over we marched to the Eastwards 2 mile and came to another River which we forded several times though it was very deep Two of our men were not able to keep company with us but came after us as they were able The last time we forded the River it was so deep that our tallest men stood in the deepest place and handed the sick weak and short men by which means we all got over safe except those two who were behind Foreseeing a necessity of wading through Rivers frequently in our Land-march I took care before I left the Ship to provide my self a large Joint of Bambo which I stopt at both ends closing it with Wax so as to keep out any Water In this I preserved my Journal and other Writings from being wet tho I was often forced to swim When we were over this River we sat down to wait the coming of our Consorts who were left behind and in half an hour they came But the River by that time was so high that they could not get over it neither could
big as a Turkey wherewith we treated our Guides for we brought no Provision with us This night our last Slave run away The eleventh day we marched 10 mile farther and built Hutts at night but went supperless to bed The twelfth in the morning we crossed a deep River passing over it on a Tree and marched 7 mile in a low swampy ground and came to the side of a great deep River but could not get over We built Hutts upon its Banks and lay there all night upon our Barbecu's or frames of Sticks raised about 3 foot from the ground The thirteenth day when we turned out the River had overflowed its Banks and was 2 foot deep in our Hutts and our Guides went from us not telling us their intent which made us think they were returned home again Now we began to repent our haste in coming from the last settlements for we had no food since we came from thence Indeed we got Macaw-berries in this place wherewith we satisfied our selves this day though coursly The fourteenth day in the morning betimes our Guides came to us again and the Waters being fallen within their bounds they carry'd us to a Tree that stood on the Bank of the River and told us if we could fell that Tree cross it we might pass if not we could pass no further Therefore we set two of the best Ax-men that we had who fell'd it exactly cross the River and the bows just reached over on this we passed very safe We afterwards crossed another River three times with much difficulty and at 3 a Clock in the afternoon we came to an Indian settlement where we met a drove of Monkeys and kill d 4 of them and stayed here all night having marched this day 6 miles Here we got Plantains enough and a kind reception of the Indian that lived here all alone except one boy to wait on him The fifteenth day when we set out the kind Indian and his boy went with us in a Canoa and set us over such places as we could not ford and being past those great Rivers he returned back again having helped us at least 2 mile We marched afterwards 5 mile and came to large Plantain walks where we took up our quarters that night we there fed plentifully on Plantains both ripe and green and had fair weather all the day and night I think these were the largest Plantains walks and the biggest Plantains that ever I saw but no house near them We gathered what we pleased by our Guides orders The sixteenth day we marched 3 mile and came to a large settlement where we abode all day Not a man of us but wisht the Journey at an end our Feet being blistered and our Thighs stript with wading through so many Rivers the way being almost continually through Rivers or pathless Woods In the afternoon five of us went to seek for game and kill'd 3 Monkeys which we drest for Supper Here we first began to have fair Weather which continued with us till we came to the North Seas The eighteenth day we set out at 10 a Clock and the Indians with 5 Canoas carried us a league up a River and when we landed the kind Indians went with us and carried our burthens We marched 3 mile farther and then built our Hutts having travelled from the last settlements 6 miles The nineteenth day our Guides lost their way and we did not march above 2 miles The twentieth day by 12 a Clock we came to Cheapo River The Rivers we crost hitherto run all into the South Seas and this of Cheapo was the last we met with that run that way Here an old man who came from the last settlements distributed his burthen of Plantains amongst us and taking his leave returned home Afterward we forded the River and marched to the foot of a very high Mountain where we lay all night This day we marched about 9 miles The 21st day some of the Indians returned back and we marched up a very high mountain being on the top we went some miles on a ridge and steep on both sides then descended a little and came to a fine Spring where we lay all night having gone this day about 9 miles the weather still very fair and clear The 22d day we marched over another very high Mountain keeping on the ridge 5 miles When we came to the North end we to our great comfort saw the Sea then we descended and parted our selves into 3 Companies and lay by the side of a River which was the first we met that runs into the North Sea The 23d day we came through several large Plantain walks and at 10 a Clock came to an Indians habitation not far from the North Sea Here we got Canoas to carry us down the River Conception to the Sea side having gone this day about 7 miles We found a great many Indians at the mouth of this River They had settled themselves here for the benefit of Trade with the Privateers and their Commodities were Yams Potatoes Plantains Sugar Canes Fowls and Eggs. These Indians told us that there had been a great many English and French Ships here which were all gone but one Barco-longo a French Privateer that lay at La Sound 's Key or Island This Island is about 3 leagues from the mouth of the River Conception and is one of the Samballoes a range of Islands reaching for about 20 leagues from point Samballas to Golden-Island Eastward These Islands or Keys as we call them were first made the Rendezvous of Privateers in the year 1679 being very convenient for careening and had names given to some of them by the Captains of the Privateers as this La-Sound s Key particularly Thus we finished our Journey from the South Sea to the North in 23 days in which time by my account we travelled 110 miles crossing some very high Mountains but our common march was in the Valleys among deep and dangerous Rivers At our first landing in this Country we were told that the Indians were our Enemies we knew the Rivers to be deep the wet season to be coming in yet excepting those we left behind we lost but one man who was drowned as I said Our first landing place on the South Coast was very disadvantageous for we travelled at least 50 miles more than we need to have done could we have gone up Cheapo River or Santa Maria River for at either of these places a man may pass from Sea to Sea in 3 days time with ease The Indians can do it in a day and a half by which you may see how easy it is for a party of men to travel over I must confess the Indians did assist us very much and I question whether ever we had got over without their assistance because they brought us from time to time to their Plantations where we always got Provision which else we should have wanted But if a party of 500 or 600 men or more were
Seas is among these Gallapago Islands for here is plenty of Grass There is another sort of Green Turtle in the South Seas which are but small yet pretty sweet These lye Westward on the Coast of Mexico One thing is very strange and remarkable in these Creatures that at the breeding time they leave for 2 or 3 Months their common haunts where they feed most of the Year and resort to other places only to lay their Eggs And 't is not thought that they eat any thing during this Season So that both He 's and She 's grow very lean but the He 's to that degree that none will eat them The most remarkable places that I did ever hear of for their breeding is at an Island in the West Indies called Caimanes and the Isle Ascention in the Western Ocean and when the breeding time is past there are none remaining Doubtless they swim some hundreds of Leagues to come to those two places For it hath been often observed that at Caimanes at the breeding time there are found all those sorts of Turtle before described The South Keys of Cuba are above 40 Leagues from thence which is the nearest place that these Creatures can come from and it is most certain that there could not live so many there as come here in one Season Those that go to lay at Ascention must needs travel much farther for there is no Land nearer it than 300 Leagues And it is certain that these Creatures live always near the shore In the South Sea likewise the Gallapagos is the place where they live the biggest part of the Year yet they go from thence at their Season over to the Main to lay their Eggs which is 100 Leagues the nearest place Altho multitudes of these Turtles go from their common places of feeding and abode to those laying places yet they do not all go And at the time when the Turtlè resort to these places to lay their Eggs they are accompanied with abundance of Fish especially Sharks the places which the Turtle then leave being at that time destitute of Fish which follow the Turtle When the She 's go thus to their places to lay the Male accompany them and never leave them till their return Both Male and Female are Fat the begining of the Season but before they return the Male as I said are so lean that they are not fit to eat but the Female are good to the very last Yet not so Fat as at the beginning of the Season It is reported of these Creatures that they are 9 days engendring and in the Water the Male on the Females back It is observable that the Male while engendring do not easily forsake their Female For I have gone and taken hold of the Male when ingendring and a very bad striker may strike them then for the Male is not shie at all but the Female seeing a Boat when they rise to blow would make her escape but that the Male grasps her with his 2 fore Fins and holds her fast When they are thus coupled it is best to strike the Female first then you are sure of the Male also These Creatures are thought to live to a great Age and it is observed by the Jamaica Turtlers that they are many years before they come to their full growth The air of these Islands is temperate enough considering the Clime Here is constantly a fresh Sea breze all Day and cooling refreshing winds in the Night Therefore the heat is not so violent here as in most places near the Equator The time of the Year for the Rains is in November December and January Then there is oftentimes excessive dark Tempestuous weather mixt with much Thunder and Lightning Sometimes before and after these Months there are moderate refreshing Showers but in May June July and August the weather is alway very fair We staid at one of these Islands which lies under the Equator but one Night because our Prizes could not get into an Anchor We refresht our selves very well both with Land and Sea Turtles and the next day we failed from thence The next Island of the Gallapagos that we came to is but 2 Leagues from this 'T is Rocky and barren like this it is about 5 or 6 Leagues long and 4 broad We Anchored in the Afternoon at the North side of the Island a quarter of a Mile from the shore in 16 fathom water It is steep all round this Island and no Anchoring only at this place Here it is but ordinary riding for the ground is so steep that if an Anchor starts it never holds again and the wind is commonly off from the Land except in the Night when the Land-wind comes more from the West for there it blows right along the shore though but faintly Here is no water but in Ponds and holes of the Rocks That which we first Anchored at hath water on the North end falling down in a stream from high steep Rocks upon the Sandy Bay where it may be taken up As soon as we came to an Anchor we made a Tent ashore for Captain Cook who was sick Here we found the Sea Turtle lying ashore on the Sand this is not customary in the West Indies We turned them on their backs that they might not get away The next day more came up when we found it to be their custom to lye in the Sun so we never took care to turn them afterwards but sent ashore the Cook every morning who kill'd as many as served for the day This custom we observed all the time we lay here feeding sometimes on Land Turtle sometimes on Sea Turtle there being plenty of either sort Captain Davis came hither again a second time and then he went to other Islands on the West side of these There he found such plenty of Land Turtle that he and his Men eat nothing else for 3 Months that he staid there They were so Fat that he saved 60 Jars of Oyl out of those that he spent This Oyl served instead of Butter to eat with Dough-boys or Dumplin's in his return out of these Seas He found very convenient places to Careen and good Channels between the Islands and very good Anchoring in many places There he found also plenty of brooks of good fresh water and fire wood enough there being plenty of Trees fit for many uses Captain Harris one that we shall speak of hereafter came hither likewise and found some Islands that had plenty of Mammee-trees and pretty large Rivers The Sea about these Islands is plentifully stored with Fish such as are at John Fernando's They are both large and Fat and as plentiful here as at John Fernando's Here are particularly abundance of Sharks The North part of this second Isle we anchor'd at lyes 28 minutes North of the Equator I took the heighth of the Sun with an Astrolabe These Isles of the Gallapago's have plenty of Salt We stay'd here but 12 days in which
the S. E. end of the Island Mindanao we saw two small Islands about 3 leagues distant from it We might have passed between them and the main Island as we learnt since but not knowing them nor what dangers we might encounter there we chose rather to sail to the Eastward of them But meeting very strong Westerly Winds we got nothing forward in many days In this time we first saw the Islands Meangis which are about 16 leagues distant from the Mindanao bearing S. E. I shall have occasion to speak more of them hereafter The 4th day of July we got into a deep Bay 4 leagues N. W. from the two small Islands before mentioned But the night before in a violent Tornado our Bark being unable to beat any longer bore away which put us in some pain for fear she was overset as we had like to have been our selves We anchored on the South West side of the Bay in 15 fathom Water about a Cables length from the shore Here we were forced to shelter our selves from the violence of the Weather which was so boisterous with Rains and Tornadoes and a strong Westerly Wind that we were very glad to find this place to anchor in being the only shelter on this side from the West Winds This Bay is not above two mile wide at the mouth but farther in it is 3 leagues wide and 7 leagues deep running in N. N. W. There is a good depth of Water about 4 or 5 leagues in but rocky foul ground for above 2 leagues in from the mouth on both sides of the Bay except only in that place where we lay About 3 leagues in from the mouth on the Eastern side there are fair sandy Bays and very good anchoring in 4 5 and 6 fathom The Land on the East side is high mountainous and woody yet very well watered with small Brooks and there is one River large enough for Canoas to enter On the West side of the Bay the Land is of a mean heighth with a large Savannah bordering on the Sea and stretching from the mouth of the Bay a great way to the Westward This Savannah abounds with long Grass and it is plentifully stock'd with Deer The adjacent Woods are a covert for them in the heat of the day but mornings and evenings they feed in the open Plains as thick as in our Parks in England I never saw any where such plenty of wild Deer tho I have met with them in several parts of America both in the North and South Seas The Deer live here pretty peaceably and unmolested for there are no Inhabitants on that side of the Bay We visited this Savannah every morning and killed as many Deer as we pleased sometimes 16 or 18 in a day and we did eat nothing but Venison all the time we staid here We saw a great many Plantations by the sides of the Mountains on the East side of the Bay and we went to one of them in hopes to learn of the Inhabitants whereabouts the City was that we might not over-sail it in the night but they fled from us We lay here till the 12th day before the Winds abated of their fury and then we sailed from hence directing our course to the Westward In the morning we had a Land Wind at North. At 11 a clock the Sea breeze came at West just in our Teeth but it being fair weather we kept on our way turning and taking the advantage of the Land breezes by night and the Sea breezes by day Being now past the S. E. part of the Island we coasted down on the South side and we saw abundance of Canoas a fishing and now and then a small Village Neither were these Inhabitants afraid of us as the former but came aboard yet we could not understand them nor they us but by signs and when we mentioned the word Mindanao they would point towards it The 18th day of July we arrived before the River of Mindanao the mouth of which lies in lat 6 d. 22 m. No. and is laid in 231 d. 12 m. Longitude West from the Lizard in England We anchored right against the River in 15 fathom water clear hard Sand about 2 miles from the shore and 3 or 4 miles from a small Island that lay without us to the Southward We fired 7 or 9 Guns I remember not well which and were answered again with 3 from the shore for which we gave one again Immediately after our coming to an anchor Raja Laut and one of the Sultans Sons came off in a Canoa being rowed with 10 Oars and demanded in Spanish what we were and from whence we came Mr. Smith he who was taken Prisoner at Leon in Mexico answered in the same Language that we were English and that we had been a great while out of England They told us that we were welcom and asked us a great many questions about England especially concerning our East India Merchants and whether we were sent by them to settle a Factory here Mr. Smith told them that we came hither only to buy provision They seemed a little discontented when they understood that we were not come to settle among them for they had heard of our arrival on the East side of the Island a great while before and entertained hopes that we were sent purposely out of England hither to settle a trade with them which it should seem they are very desirous of For Captain Goodlud had been here not long before to treat with them about it and when he went away told them as they said that in a short time they might expect an Ambassadour from England to make a full bargain with them Indeed upon mature thoughts I should think we could not have done better than to have complied with the desire they seemed to have of our settling here and to have taken up our quarters among them For as thereby we might better have consulted our own profit and satisfaction than by the other loose roving way of life so it might probably have proved of publick benefit to our Nation and been a means of introducing an English Settlement and Trade not only here but through several of the Spice-Islands which lye in its neighbourhood For the Islands Meangis which I mentioned in the beginning of this Chapter lye within 20 leagues of Mindanao These are 3 small Islands that abound with Gold and Cloves if I may credit my Author Prince Jeoly who was born on one of them and was at this time a Slave in the City of Mindanao He might have been purchased by us of his Master for a small matter as he was afterwards by Mr. Moody who came hither to Trade and laded a Ship with Clove Bark and by transporting him home to his own Country we might have gotten a Trade there But of Prince Jeoly I shall speak more hereafter These Islands are as yet probably unknown to the Dutch who as I said before indeavour to ingross all
being in hopes to accomplish our Voyage to Achin before the western Monsoon was set in strong knowing that we should have very blustring weather after this fair weather especially at the first coming of the western Monsoon We rowed therefore away to the Southward supposing that when we were clear from the Island we should have a true Wind as we call it for the Land hales the Wind and we often find the Wind at Sea different from what it is near the Shore We rowed with 4 Oars taking our turns Mr. Hall and I steered also by turns for none of the rest were capable of it We rowed the first afternoon and the night ensuing about twelve leagues by my judgment Our course was South South East but the 16th day in the morning when the Sun was an hour high we saw the Island from whence we came bearing N. W. by N. Therefore I found we had gone a point more to the East than I intended for which reason we steered S. by E. In the afternoon at 4 a clock we had a gentle breeze at W. S. W. which continued so till 9 all which time we laid down our Oars and steered away S. S. E. I was then at the Helm and I found by the ripling of the Sea that there was a strong Current against us It made a great noise that might be heard near half a mile At 9 a clock it fell calm and so continued till 10. Then the Wind sprung up again and blew a fresh breeze all night The 17th day in the morning we lookt out for the Island Sumatra supposing that we were now within 20 leagues of it for we had rowed and sailed by our reckoning 24 leagues from Nicobar Island and the distance from Nicobar to Achin is about 40 leagues But we lookt in vain for the Island Sumatra for turning our selves about we saw to our grief Nicobar Island lying W. N. W. and not above 8 leagues distant By this it was visible that we had met a very strong Current against us in the night But the wind freshned on us and we made the best use of it while the weather continued fair At noon we had an observation of the Sun my lat was 6 d. 55 m. and Mr. Hall's was 7 d. N. The 18th day the Wind freshned on us again and the Sky began to be clouded It was indifferent clear till noon and we thought to have had an Observation but we were hindred by the Clouds that covered the face of the Sun when it came on the Meridian This often happens that we are disappointed of making Observations by the Suns being clouded at noon though it shines clear both before and after especially in places near the Sun and this obscuring of the Sun at noon is commonly sudden and unexpected and for about half an hour or more We had then also a very ill presage by a great Circle about the Sun 5 or 6 times the Diameter of it which seldom appears but storms of Wind or much Rain ensue Such Circles about the Moon are more frequent but of less import We do commonly take great notice of these that are about the Sun observing if there be any breach in the Circle and in what quarter the breach is for from thence we commonly find the greatest stress of the Wind will come I must confess that I was a little anxious at the sight of this Circle and wisht heartily that we were near some Land Yet I shewed no sign of it to discourage my Consorts but made a virtue of necessity and put a good countenance on the matter I told Mr. Hall that if the Wind became too strong and violent as I feared it would it being even then very strong we must of necessity steer away before the Wind and Sea till better Weather presented and that as the Winds were now we should instead of about 20 leagues to Achin be driven 60 or 70 leagues to the Coast of Cudda or Queda a Kingdom and Town and Harbour of Trade on the Coast of Malacca The Winds therefore bearing very hard we rolled up the foot of our Sail on a pole fastned to it and settled our yard within 3 foot of the Canoa sides so that we had now but a small sail yet it was still too big considering the Wind for the Wind being on our broad side prest her down very much tho supported by her Outlagers insomuch that the poles of the Outlagers going from the sides of their Vessel bent as if they would break and should they have broken our overturning and perishing had been inevitable Besides the Sea increasing would soon have filled the Vessel this way Yet thus we made a shift to bear up with the side of the Vessel against the Wind for a while But the Wind still increasing about one a clock in the afternoon we put away right before Wind and Sea continuing to run thus all the afternoon and part of the night ensuing The Wind continued increasing all the afternoon and the Sea still swelled higher and often broke but did us no damage for the ends of the Vessel being very narrow he that steered received and broke the Sea on his back and so kept it from coming in so much as to endanger the Vessel though much Water would come in which we were forced to keep heaving out continually And by this time we saw it was well that we had altered our course every Wave would else have filled and sunk us taking the side of the Vessel And though our Outlagers were well lasht down to the Canoas bottom with Rattans yet they must probably have yielded to such a Sea as this when even before they were plunged under Water and bent like twigs The evening of this 18th day was very dismal The Sky looked very black being covered with dark Clouds the Wind blew hard and the Seas ran high The Sea was already roaring in a white fome about us a dark night coming on and no Land in sight to shelter us and our little Ark in danger to be swallowed by every Wave and what was worst of all none of us thought our selves prepared for another World The Reader may better guess than I can express the confusion that we were all in I had been â—…in many eminent dangers before now some of which I have already related but the worst of them all was but a play-game in comparison with this I must confess that I was in great conflicts of Mind at this time Other dangers came not upon me with such a leisurely and dreadful solemnity A sudden Skirmish or Engagement or so was nothing when ones blood was up and pusht forward with eager expectations But here I had a lingring view of approaching death and little or no hopes of escaping it and I must confess that my courage which I had hitherto kept up failed me here and I made very sad reflections on my former Life and lookt back with horrour and
enough for small Barks 7 or 8 Mile up The Water is fresh 10 Months but in the midst of the dry Season 't is brackish Four Mile from the Mouth the Land on both sides these two Branches is wet and swampy affording only Mangroves by the Creeks sides only at the Heads of them there are many large Oaks besides which I did never see any growing within the Tropicks but 20 Paces within that grows plenty of Logwood therefore the Cutters settled themselves here also On the West side of the West Branch lyes a large Pasture for Cattle about 3 Miles from the Creek to which the Logwood-Cutters had made paths from their Huts to hunt Cattle which are always there in great numbers and commonly fatter than those in the Neighbouring Savannahs and therefore was called the fat Savannah and this West Creek was always most inhabited by Logwood-Cutters The Logwood-Trade was grown very common before I came hither here being as I said before about 260 or 270 Men living in all the Lagune and at Beef-Island of which Isle I shall speak hereafter This Trade had its Rise from the decay of Privateering for after Jamaica was well settled by the English and a Peace established with Spain the Privateers who had hitherto lived upon plundering the Spaniards were put to their shifts for they had prodigally spent whatever they got and now wanting subsistence were forced either to go to Petit Guavas where the Privateer-Trade still continued or into the Bay for Logwood The more Industrious sort of them came hither yet even these though they could work well enough if they pleased yet thought it a dry business to toil at Cutting Wood. They were good Marks-Men and so took more delight in Hunting but neither of those Employments affected them so much as Privateering therefore they often made Sallies out in small Parties among the nearest Indian Towns where they plundred and brought away the Indian Women to serve them at their Huts and sent their Husbands to be sold at Jamaica besides they had not their old Drinking-bouts forgot and would still spend 30 or 40 l. at a sitting aboard the Ships that came hither from Jamaica carousing and firing off Guns 3 or 4 days together And tho' afterwards many sober Men came into the Bay to cut Wood yet by degrees the old Standers so debauched them that they could never settle themselves under any Civil Government but continued in their Wickedness till the Spaniards encouraged by their careless Rioting fell upon them and took most of them singly at their own Huts and carried them away Prisoners to Campeachy or La Vera Cruz from whence they were sent to Mexico and sold to several Tradesmen in that City and from thence after two or three Years when they could speak Spanish many of them made their Escapes and marched in by-Paths back to La Vera Cruz and by the Flota conveyed to Spain and so to England I have spoke with many of them since who told me that none of them were sent to the Silver Mines to Work but kept in or near the City and never suffered to go with their Caravans to New Mexico or that way I relate this because it is generally suggested that the Spaniards commonly send their Prisoners thither and use them very barbarously but I could never learn that any European has been thus served whether for fear of discovering their Weakness or for any other Reason I know not But to proceed It is most certain that the Logwood-Cutters that were in the Bay when I was there were all routed or taken a thing I ever feared and that was the reason that moved me at last to come away although a Place where a Man might have gotten an Estate Having thus given an Account of the first settling of this Place by my Country-men I shall next say something concerning the Seasons of the Year some particulars of the Country its Animals of the Logwood-Trade and their manner of Hunting and several remarkable Passages that happened during my stay there This part of the Bay of Campeachy lyes in about 18d of North Lat. The Sea-Breezes here in fair weather are at N. N. E. or N. The Land-winds are at S. S. E. and S. but in bad Weather at E. S. E. a hard gale for two or three days together The dry Season begins in September and holds till April or May then comes in the wet Season which begins with Tornadoes first one in a day and by degrees increasing till June and then you have set Rains till the latter end of August This swells the Rivers so that they over-flow and the Savannahs begin to be covered with Water and although there may be some Intermissions of dry Weather yet there are still plentiful showers of Rain so that as the water does not increase neither does it decrease but continues thus till the North Winds are set in strong and then all the Savannahs for many Miles seems to be but part of the Sea The Norths do commonly set in about the beginning of October and continue by intervals till March But of these I shall speak more in my Chapter of Winds These Winds blowing right in on the Land drive in the Sea and keep the Tides from their constant Course as long as they last which is sometimes two or three Days by this means the Freshes are pent up and overflow much more than before tho' there be less Rain They blow most fiercely in December and January but afterwards they decrease in strength and are neither so frequent nor lasting and then the Freshes begin to drain from off the low Ground By the middle of Feb. the Land is all dry and in the next Month perhaps you will scarce get Water to drink even in those Savannahs that but 6 Weeks before were like a Sea By the beginning of April the Ponds also in the Savannahs are all dryed up and one that knows not how to get Water otherways may perish for thirst but those that are acquainted here in their Necessity make to the Woods and refresh themselves with Water that they find in wild Pines The wild Pine is a plant so called because it somewhat resembles the Bush that bears the Pine they are commonly supported or grow from some Bunch Knot or Excrescence of the Tree where they take root and grow upright The root is short and thick from whence the Leaves rise up in folds one within another spreading off at the top They are of a good thick Substance and about 10 or 12 Inches long The out side Leaves are so compact as to contain the Rain-water as it falls They will hold a Pint and a half or a Quart and this Water refreshes the Leaves and nourishes the Root When we find these Pines we stick our Knives into the Leaves just above the Root and that lets out the Water which we catch in our Hats as I have done many times to my great relief The Land near
the Foggs that hang over the Land before Night for it is a certain sign of a good Land-VVind to see a thick Fogg lye still and quiet like Smoak over the Land not stirring any way and we look out for such Signs when we are plying to VVind-ward For if we see no Fog over the Land the Land-wind will be but faint and short that Night These signs are to be observed chiefly in fair VVeather for in the wet Season Foggs do hang over the Land all the Day and it may be neither Land-wind nor Sea-Breeze stirring If in the Afternoon also in fair VVeather we see a Tornado over the Land it commonly sends us forth a fresh Land-VVind These Land-winds are very cold and though the Sea-Breezes are always much stronger yet these are colder by far The Sea-Breezes indeed are very comfortable and refreshing for the hottest time in all the Day is about 9 10 or 11 a Clock in he Morning in the interval between both Breezes For then it is commonly Calm and then People pant for breath especially if it is late before the Sea-Breez comes but afterwards the Breez alays the heat However in the Evening again after the Sea-breez is spent it is very hot till the Land-wind springs up which is sometimes not till Twelve a Clock or after For this Reason Men when they go to Bed uncloath themselves and lye without any thing over them Nay the ordinary sort of People spread Mats at their Doors or else in their Yards in Jamaica and lye down to sleep in the open Air. In the East Indies at Fort St. George also Men take their Cotts or little Field-Beds and put them in the Yards and go to sleep in the Air And Seamen aboard Ships in these hot Countries lye on the Deck till the Land-wind comes The Inhabitants of Jamaica or Fort St. George have somewhat to cover themselves when the Land-wind comes besides a Pillow on their Breast or between their Arms. But Seamen who have wrought hard all Day lye naked and exposed to the Air it may be all Night long before they awake without any covering especially if they have had their dose of Punch But next Morning they are scarce able to budge being stiff with cold that brings them to Fluxes and that to their Graves and this is the fate of many stout and brave Seamen and it is a great pitty that Masters of Ships have so little regard for their Men as not by some good Orders to prohibit this dangerous Custom of lying abroad and naked in the Nights CHAP. V. Of Land-winds and Sea-Breezes peculiar to some Coasts at some particular seasons of the Year as also of some Winds that produce strange Effects Of the Summasenta-Winds in the Bay of Campeachy Of the Winds peculiar to the Coasts of Carthagena Winds on the Mexican Coasts call'd Popogaios Others on the Coast of Coromandel call'd Terrenos The same about Malabar but at a different Season As also in the Persian Gulph And of the Hermatans on the Coast of Guinea I Shall begin with the Summasenta-Winds as they are called which blow in the Bay of Campeachy These are VVinds that come in the Months of Feb. March and April and they blow only in that Bay between the High-Land of St. Martin and Cape Condecedo which Places are about 120 Leagues asunder They are properly speaking neither Sea-Breezes nor true Land-winds yet in respect of their blowing in some measure from the shore they are in that somewhat of kin to the Land-winds These VVinds are commonly at E. S. E. in the Cod or Middle of the Bay where the Land lies E. and VV. and the true Land-winds there are at S. S. E. but from thence toward Cape Condecedo the Land trends away N. E. N. N. E. and N. So that they become Land-winds there respecting the Land from whence they blow but then they differ both from Sea and Land-Breezes in respect to their duration For these Summasenta-Winds blow 3 or 4 Days sometimes a VVeek both Night and Day before they cease They are commonly dry VVinds and blow very fresh and Ships that go from Trist with Logwood at the time when these VVinds blow will be at Cape Condecedo in 3 or 4 Days whereas if they go at any other time it will take up 8 or 10 Days tho' seldom more than that For here are good Land-winds and Sea-Breezes at other times These VVinds are commonly colder than the Sea-winds though not so cold as the Land-winds yet stronger than either I never could perceive that these VVinds did make any alteration on our Bodies different from other VVinds. But the Tides when these VVinds blow on that Coast are very small especially in the Lagunes of Trist so that the Log-wood-Barks that bring the VVood Aboard of the Ships are then forc'd to lye still for want of VVater to float them over some flats in the Lagunes On the Coast of Carthagena there are a peculiar sort of VVinds that blow in the Months of April May and June so very fierce that Ships are not able to ply to VVind-ward on that Coast while these VVinds last These VVinds blow about 40 or 50 Leagues to Wind-ward of Carthagena Town and about 10 to Leeward of it They are very fierce from the middle of the Channel between it and Hispaniola and so continue almost to the Coast of Carthagena Tho' they are sometimes a little fainter within 2 or 3 Leagues of the shore especially Mornings and Evenings They commonly rise in the Morning before day sometimes at 3 or 4 a Clock and so continue till 9 10 or 11 at Night and thus they will blow 10 or 11 Days together very siercely At this time the Land-winds besides their short continuance are very faint and blow but a little way off shore So that from 10 or 11 at Night till 3 in the Morning 't is quite Calm and not one breath of VVind from a League distant off the shore tho' 3 or 4 further off you 'l find the Breez and nearer a small Land-wind These VVinds are at E. N. E. as the Common Trade is whereas the Sea-Breezes are at N. E. by N. or N. N. E. While these fierce VVinds stay the Sky is commonly clear without any Cloud to be seen tho' doubtless 't is imperceptibly hazy for then the Sun does not give a true black shade on the Ground but very faint and dusky The Horizon too looks very dusky thick and hazy and while the Sun is near the Horizon either in the Morning or Evening it looks very red Sometimes though but seldom when these VVinds blow the Sky is over-cast with small Clouds which afford some drizling small Rain But though these VVinds are so fierce on the Coast of Carthagena yet both to VVind-ward and to Leeward at the distances before-mentioned the Breezes blow moderate as at other times For the Sea and Land-winds do there keep their constant and regular Courses Neither are the Coasts
have not been known on the North side of the Island where the Mountains are bordering on the Sea or at least but a little distance off it For there they are supplied with seasonable Showers almost all the Year and even in the dry time it self near the Full and Change of the Moon But in the wet Season the Rains are more violent which is their Inconvenience As for the Valleys in the Country they are not subject to such Droughts as the plain Land by the Sea at least I have not observed it my self nor have I heard it mentioned by others The Isle of Pines near Cuba is so noted a place for Rain that the Spaniards inhabiting near it on Cuba say that it rains more or less every day in the Year at one place or another It is generally spoken also believ'd by Privateers for it has been oft visited by them I have been there my self but cannot confirm that report However it is well known to be a very wet and rainy place It is but a small Island of about 9 or 10 Leagues long and 3 or 4 broad and in the midst is a high pecked Mountain which is commonly clouded and the Privateers say that this Hill draws all the Clouds to it for if there is not another Cloud to be seen any where else yet this Hill is seldom or never clear Gorgonia in the South Seas also has the same report It is much smaller than Pines I have mentioned it in my Voyage round the World Chap. VII Page 172. This Isle lies about 4 Leagues from the Main but the Isle of Pines not above 2 and is a great deal bigger than it The Main against Gorgonia is very low Land but Cuba near Pines is pretty high and the Mountain of Pines is much bigger and higher than the Hill of Gorgonia which yet is of a good height so that it may be seen 16 or 18 Leagues off And tho' I cannot say that it rains every day there yet I know that it rains very much and extraordinary hard I have been at this Isle three times and always found it very rainy and the Rains very violent I remember when we touch'd there in our return from Captain Sharp we boiled a Kettle of Chocolate before we clean'd our Bark and having every Man his Callabash full we began to sup it off standing all the time in the Rain but I am confident not a Man among us all did clear his Dish for it rained so fast and such great drops into our Callabashes that after we had sup'd off as much Chocolate and Rain-Water together as suffised us our Callabashes were still above half full and I heard some of the Men swear that they could not sup it up so fast as it rained in at last I grew tir'd with what I had left and threw it away and most of the rest did so likewise As Clouds do usually hover over Hills and Mountains so do they also keep near the Land I have mentioned something of this in my Voyage round the World Chap. X. Page 283. where I have said that in making Land we commonly find it Cloudy over the Land tho' 't is clear every where beside And this may still confirm what I have said in the foregoing Discourse that Hills are commonly clouded for High Land is the first discerned by us and that as I said before is commonly clouded But now I shall speak how we find the Clouds when we are but a little way from Land either coasting along the shore or at an Anchor by it I hope the Reader will not imagine that I am going to prove that it never Rains at Sea or but very little there for the contrary is known to every Body and I have already said in this Discourse of Winds in my first Chapter That there are very frequent Tornadoes in several Seas especially near the Equator and more particularly in the Atlantick Sea Other Seas are not so much troubled with them neither is the Atlantick so to the North or South of the Line especially at any considerable distance from the shore but yet 't is very probable however that the Sea has not so great a portion of Tornadoes as the Land hath For when we are near the shore within the torrid Zone we often see it rain on the Land and perceive it to be very cloudy there when it is fair at Sea and scarce a Cloud to be seen that way And though we have the Wind from the shore the Clouds seeming to be drawing off yet they often wheel about again to the Land as if they were Magnetically drawn that way Sometimes indeed they do come off a little but then they usually either return again or else insensibly vanish and that 's the Reason that Seamen when they are sailing near the shore and see a Tornado coming off they don't much mind it but cry the Land will devour it But however sometimes they fly off to Sea And 't is very rare that Tornadoes arise from thence for they generally rise first over the Land and that in a very strange manner for even from a very small Cloud arising over the top of a Hill I have often seen it increase to such a bulk that I have known it rain for 2 or 3 days successively This I have observed both in the East and VVest Indies and in the South and North Seas And 't is impossible for me to forget how oft I have been disturbed by such small Clouds that appeared in the Night 'T is usual with Seamen in those parts to sleep on the Deck especially for Privateers among whom I made these Observations In Privateers especially when we are at an Anchor the Deck is spread with Mats to lye on each Night Every Man has one some two and this with a Pillow for the Head and a Rug for a Covering is all the Bedding that is necessary for Men of that Employ I have many times spread my Lodging when the Evening has promised well yet have been forced to withdraw before Day and yet it was not a little Rain that would afright me then neither at its first coming could I have thought that such a small Cloud could afford so much Rain And oftentimes both my self and others have been so deceived by the appearance of so small a Cloud that thinking the Rain would soon be over we have lain till we were dropping wet and then have been forced to move at last But to proceed I have constantly observed that in the wet Season we had more Rain in the Night than in the day for though it was fair in the Day yet we seldom escaped having a Tornado or two in the Night If we had one in the Day it rose and came away presently and it may be we had an Hours Rain more or less but when it came in the Night though there was little appearance of Rain yet we should have it 3 or 4 Hours together but
without any Tree only some Dildo-bushes growing on them and I do believe there is no Water on any one of them for there was no appearance of any Water The two Northernmost we could not come near but the Southermost we came close by but could not strike ground till within two Cables length of the shore and there found it to be foul rocky ground From the time that we were in 10 degrees South till we came to these Islands we had the Wind between E. N. E. and the N. N. E. fair weather and a brisk gale The day that we made these Islands we saw great sholes of small Lobsters which coloured the Sea Red in spots for a mile in compass and we drew some of them out of the Sea in our Water-Buckets They were no bigger than the top of a Mans little finger yet all their Claws both great and small like a Lobster I never saw any of this sort of Fish naturally red but here for ours on the English Coast which are black naturally are not red till they are boil'd neither did I ever any where else meet with any Fish of the Lobster shape so small as these unless it may be Shrimps or Prawns Captain Swan and Captain Eaton met also with shoals of this Fish in much the same Latitude and Longitude Leaving therefore the Sible de Ward Islands as having neither good Anchorage nor Water we sailed on directing our course for the Streights of Magellan But the Winds hanging in the westerbord and blowing hard oft put us by our Topsails so that we could not fetch it The 6th day of February we fell in with the Streights Le Mair which is very high Land on both sides and the Streights very narrow We had the Wind at N. N. W. a fresh gale and seeing the opening of the Streights we ran in with it till within four mile of the mouth and then it fell calm and we found a strong tide setting out of the Streights to the Northward and like to founder our Ship but whether flood or ebb I know not only it made such a short cockling Sea as if we had been in a race or place where two tides meet For it ran every way sometimes breaking in over our Waste sometimes over our Poop sometimes over our Bow and the Ship tossed like an Egg-shell so that I never felt such uncertain jerks in a Ship At 8 a clock in the evening we had a small Breez at W. N. W. and steered away to the Eastward intending to go round the States Island the East end of which we reached the next day by noon having a fresh breez all night The 7th day at noon being off the East End of States Island I had a good observation of the Sun and found my self in lat 54 deg 52 min. South At the East end of States Island are three small Islands or rather Rocks pretty high and white with the Dung of Fowls Wherefore having observed the Sun we haled up South designing to pass round to the Southward of Cape Horne which is the Southermost Land of Terra del Fuego The Winds hung in the western quarter betwixt the N. W. and the West so that we could not get much to the Westward and we never saw Terra del Fuego after that evening that we made the Streight Le Mair I have heard that there have been Smokes and Fires on Terra del Fuego not on the tops of Hills but in Plains and Valleys seen by those who have sailed through the Streights of Magellan supposed to be made by the Natives We did not see the Sun at rising or setting in order to take an amplitude after we left the Sibble de Wards till we got into the South Seas therefore I know not whether the variation increased any more or no. Indeed I had an observation of the Sun at noon in lat 59 deg 30 min. and we were then standing to the Southward with the Wind at W. by N. and that night the Wind came about more to the Southward of the West and we tackt I was then in lat 60 by reckning which was the farthest South latitude that ever I was in The 14th day of February being in lat 57. and to the West of Cape Horne we had a violent Storm which held us till the third day of March blowing commonly at S. W. and S. W. by W. and W. S. W. thick weather all the time with small drizling Rain but not hard We made a shift however to save 23 Barrels of Rain-water besides what we drest our Victuals withal March the third the Wind shifted at once and came about at South blowing a fierce gale of Wind soon after it came about to the Eastward and we stood into the South Seas The 9th day having an observation of the Sun not having seen it of late we found ourselves in lat 47 d. 10 m. and the variation to be but 15 d. 30 m. East The Wind stood at S. E. we had fair weather and a moderate gale and the 17th day we were in lat 36 by observation and then found the variation to be but 8 degrees East The 19th day when we looked out in the morning we saw a Ship to the Southward of us coming with all the Sail she could make after us we lay muzled to let her come up with us for we supposed her to be a Spanish Ship come from Baldivia bound to Lima we being now to the Northward of Baldivia and this being the time of the year when Ships that trade thence to Baldivia return home They had the same opinion of us and therefore made sure to take us but coming nearer we both found our mistakes This proved to be one Captain Eaton in a Ship sent purposely from London for the South Seas We hailed each other and the Captain came on board and told us of his actions on the Coast of Brazil and in the River of Plate He met Captain Swan one that came from England to trade here at the East Entrance into the Streights of Magellan and they accompanied each other through the Streights and were separated after they were through by the Storm before mentioned Both we and Captain Eaton being bound for John Fernando's Isle we kept company and we spared him Bread and Beef and he spared us Water which he took in as he passed through the Streights March the 22d 1684. we came in sight of the Island and the next day got in and anchored in a Bay at the South end of the Island in 25 fathom water not two Cables lengths from the shore We presently got out our Canoa and went ashore to see for a Moskito Indian whom we left here when we were chaced hence by three Spanish Ships in the year 1681. a little before we went to Arica Captain Watlin being then our Commander after Captain Sharp was turned out This Indian lived here alone above 3 years and altho he was several
We were 2 Ships and 3 Barks in Company viz. Captain Davis Captain Swan a Fireship and 2 small Barks as Tenders one on Captain Davis his Ship the other on Captain Swan's We weighed before day and got out all but Captain Swan's Tender which never budged for the men were all asleep when we went out and the Tide of flood coming on before they waked we were forced to stay for them till the next day The 8th day in the morning we descried a sail to the West of us the Wind was at South and we chased her and before noon took her She was a Ship of about 90 Tun laden with Flower she came from Truxillio and was bound to Panama This Ship came very opportunely to us for Flower began to grow scarce and Captain Davis his men grudg'd at what was given to Captain Swan who as I said before had none but what he had from Captain Davis We jogged on after this with a gentle gale towards Gorgonia an Island lying about 25 leagues from the Island Gallo The 9th day we anchored at Gorgonia on the West side of the Island in 38 fathom clean ground not 2 Cables length from the shore Gorgonia is an uninhabited Island in lat about 3 degrees North It is a pretty high Island and very remarkable by reason of 2 saddles or risings and fallings on the top It is about 2 leagues long and a league broad and it is 4 leagues from the Main At the West-end is another small Island The Land against the Anchoring place is low there is a small sandy Bay and good landing The Soil or Mold of it is black and deep in the low ground but on the side of the high Land it is a kind of a red clay This Island is very well cloathed with large Trees of several sorts that are flourishing and green all the year It 's very well watered with small Brooks that issue from the high Land Here are a great many little black Monkeys some Indian Conies and a few Snakes which are all the Land Animals that I know there It is reported of this Island that it rains on every day in the year more or less but that I can disprove however it is a very wet Coast and it rains abundantly here all the year long There are but few fair days for there is little difference in the seasons of the year between the wet and dry only in that season which should be the dry time the rains are less frequent and more moderate than in the wet season for then it pours as out of a Sieve It is deep water and no anchoring any where about this Island only at that West side The Tyde riseth and falleth 7 or 8 foot up and down Here are a great many Perewincles and Muscles to be had at low water Then the Monkeys come down by the Sea side and catch them digging them out of their Shells with their Claws Here are Pearl-Oysters in great plenty They grow to the loose Rocks in 4 5 or 6 fathom water by beards or little small roots as a Muscle These Oysters are commonly flatter and thinner than other Oysters otherwise much alike in shape The fish is not sweet nor very wholsome it is as slimy as a Shell-Snail they taste very copperish if eaten raw and are best boyl'd The Indians who gather them for the Spaniards hang the meat of them on strings like Jews-ears and dry them before they eat them The Pearl is found at the head of the Oyster lying between the meat and the shell Some will have 20 or 30 small Seed-Pearl some none at all and some will have 1 or 2 pretty large ones The inside of the shell is more glorious than the Pearl itfelf I did never see any in the South Seas but here It is reported there are some at the South end of Callifornia In the West Indies the Rancho Rejs or Rancheria spoken of in Chap. 3. is the place where they are found most plentifully 'T is said there are some at the Island Margarita near St. Augustin a Town in the Gulf of Florida c. In the East Indies The Island Ainam near the South end of China is said to have plenty of these Oysters more productive of large round Pearl than those in other other places They are found also in other parts of the East Indies on the Persian Coast. At this Island Gorgona we rummaged our Prize and found a few Boxes of Marmalade and 3 or 4 Jars of Brandy which were equally shared between Captain Davis Captain Swan and their Men. Here we fill'd all our Water and Captain Swan furnished himself with Flower afterward we turned ashore a great many Prisoners but kept the chiefest to put them ashore in a better place The 13th day we sailed from hence toward the Kings Islands We were now 6 Sail 2 Men of War 2 Tenders a Fireship and the Prize We had but little Wind but what we had was the common Trade at South The Land we sailed by on the Main is very low towards the Sea side but in the Country there are very high Mountains The 16th day we passed by Cape Corrientes This Cape is in lat 5 d. 10 m. it is high bluff Land with 3 or 4 small Hillocks on the top It appears at a distance like an Island Here we found a strong current running to the North but whether it be always so I know not The day after we passed by the Cape we saw a small white Island which we chased supposing it had been a Sail till coming near we found our error The 21st day we saw Point Garrachina This Point is in lat 7 d. 20 m. North it is pretty high Land rocky and destitute of Trees yet within Land it is Woody It is fenced with Rocks against the Sea Within the Point by the Sea at low Water you may find store of Oysters and Muscles The Kings Islands or Pearl Keys are about 12 leagues distant from this Point Between Point Garqchina and them there is a small low flat barren Island called Gallera at which Captain Harris was sharing with his Men the Gold he took in his pillaging Sancta Maria which I spake of a little before when on a sudden 5 Spanish Barks fitted out on purpose at Panama came upon him but he fought them so stoutly with one small Bark he had and some few Canoas boarding their Admiral particularly that they were all glad to leave him By this Island we anchored and sent our Boats to the Kings Islands for a a good careening place The Kings Islands are a great many low woody Islands lying N. W. by N. and S. E. by S. They are about 7 leagues from the Main and 14 leagues in length and from Panama about 12 leagues Why they are called the Kings Islands I know not they are sometimes and mostly in Maps called the Pearl Islands I cannot imagin wherefore they are called so for I did
consorted with us and set his Men to work to make Canoas Every Ships company made for themselves but we all helped each other to launch them for some were made a mile from the Sea The manner of making a Canoa is after cutting down a large long Tree and squaring the upper-most side and then turning it upon the flat side to shape the opposite side for the bottom Then again they turn her and dig the inside boring also three holes in the bottom one before one in the middle and one aloft thereby to gage the thickest of the bottom for otherwise we might cut the bottom thinner than is convenient We left the bottoms commonly about 3 inches thick and the sides 2 inches thick below and one and an half at the top One or both of the ends we sharpen to a point Captain Davis made two very large Canoas one was 36 foot long and 5 or 6 feet wide the other 32 foot long and near as wide as the other In a months time we finished our business and were ready to sail Here Captain Harris went to lay his Ship aground to clean her but she being old and rotten fell in pieces and therefore he and all his Men went aboard of Captain Davis and Captain Swan While we lay here we struck Turtle every day for they were now very plentiful but from August to March here are not many The 18th day of July John Rose a Frenchman and 14 Men more belonging to Captain Gronet having made a new Canoa came in her to Captain Davis and desired to serve under him and Captain Davis accepted of them because they had a Canoa of their own The 20th day of July we sailed from Quibo bending our course for Ria Lexa which is the Port for Leon the City that we now designed to attempt We were now 640 men in 8 sail of Ships Commanded by Captain Davis Captain Swan Captain Townly and Captain Knight with a Fireship and 3 Tenders which last had not a constant crew We past out between the River Quibo and the Rancheria leaving Quibo and Quicaro on our Larboard side and the Rancheria with the rest of the Islands and the Main on our Starboard side The Wind at first was at South South West We coasted along shore passing by the Gulf of Nicoya the Gulf of Dulce and by the Island Caneo All this Coast is low Land overgrown with thick Woods and there are but few inhabitants near the shore As we sailed to the Westward we had variable winds sometimes S. W. and at W. S. W. and sometimes at E. N. E. but we had them most commonly at S. W. we had a Tornado or two every day and in the evening or in the night we had land winds at N. N. E. The 8th day of August being in the lat of 11 d. 20 m. by observation we saw a high Hill in the Country towring up like a Sugar-loaf which bore N. E. by N. We supposed it to be Volcan Vejo by the smoak which ascended from its top therefore we steered in North and made it plainer and then knew it to be that Volcan which is the Sea-mark for the harbour for Ria Lexo for as I said before in Chapter the 5th it is a very remarkable Mountain When we had brought this Mountain to bear N. E. we got out all our Canoas and provided to embark into them the next day The 9th day in the morning being about 8 leagues from the shore we left our Ships under the charge of a few men and 520 of us went away in 31 Canoas rowing towards the Harbour of Ria Lexa We had fair Weather and little Wind till 2 a clock in the afternoon then we had a Tornado from the shore with much Thunder Lightning and Rain and such a gust of Wind that we were all like to be founder d. In this extremity we put right afore the Wind every Canoas crew making what shift they could to avoid the threatning danger The small Canoas being most light and buoyant mounted nimbly over the Surges but the great heavy Canoas lay like logs in the Sea ready to be swallowed by every foaming billow Some of our Canoas were half full of water yet kept two men constantly heaving it out The fierceness of the Wind continued about half an hour and abated by degrees and as the Wind died away so the fury of the Sea abated For in all hot Countries as I have observed the Sea is soon raised by the Wind and as soon down again when the Wind is gone and therefore it is a proverb among the Sea-men Up Wind up Sea Down Wind down Sea At 7 a clock in the evening it was quite calm and the Sea as smooth as a Mill-pond Then we tugg'd to get into the shore but finding we could not do it before day we rowed off again to keep our selves out of sight By that time it was day we were 5 leagues from the Land which we thought was far enough off shore Here we intended to lye till the evening but at 3 a clock in the afternoon we had another Tornado more fierce than that which we had the day before This put us in greater peril of our lives but did not last so long As soon as the violence of the Tornado was over we rowed in for the shore and entered the Harbour in the night The Creek which leads towards Leon lieth on the S. E. side of the Harbour Our Pilot being very well acquainted here carried us into the mouth of it but could carry us no farther till day because it is but a small Creek and there are other Creeks like it The next morning as soon as it was light we rowed into the Creek which is very narrow the Land on both sides lying so low that every tide it is overflown with the Sea This sort of Land produceth red Mangrove-trees which are here so plentiful and thick that there is no passing thro them Beyond these Mangroves on the firm Land close by the side of the River the Spaniards have built a Brestwork purposely to hinder an Enemy from landing When we came in sight of the Brestwork we rowed as fast as we could to get ashore The noise of our Oars allarmed the Indians who were set to watch and presently they ran away towards the City of Leon to give notice of our approach We landed as soon as we could and marched after them 470 men were drawn out to march to the Town and I was left with 59 men more to stay and guard the Canoas till their return The City of Leon is 20 mile up in the Country The way to it plain and even through a champion Country of long grassy Savannahs and spots of high Woods About 5 mile from the landing place there is a Sugar work 3 mile farther there is another and 2 mile beyond that there is a fine River to ford which is not very deep besides which there is
had one man shot through the Thigh Afterward they went into a Lagune or Lake of Salt-water where they found much dried Fish and brought some aboard We being now abrest of that place sent in a Canoa mann'd with 12 men for more Fish The mouth of this Lagune is not Pistol-shot wide and on both sides are pretty high Rocks so conveniently placed by nature that many men may abscond behind and within the Rock the Lagune opens wide on both sides The Spaniards being allarmed by our 2 Canoas that had been there 2 or 3 days before came armed to this place to secure their Fish and seeing our Canoa coming they lay snug behind the Rocks and suffered the Canoa to pass in then they fired their Vōlley and wounded 5 of our men Our people were a little surprized at this sudden adventure yet fired their Guns and rowed farther into the Lagune for they durst not adventure to come out again through the narrow entrance which was near a quarter of a mile in length Therefore they rowed into the middle of the Lagune where they lay out of Gun-shot and looked about to see if there was not another passage to get out at broader than that by which they entered but could see none So they lay still 2 days and 3 nights in hopes that we should come to seek them but we lay off at Sea about 3 leagues distant waiting for their return supposing by their long absence that they had made some greater discovery and were gone farther than the Fish-range because it is usual with Privateers when they enter upon such designs to search farther than they proposed if they meet any encouragement But Captain Townly and his Bark being nearer the shore heard some Guns fired in the Lagune So he mann'd his Canoa and went towards the shore and beating the Spaniards away from the Rocks made a free passage for our men to come out of their pound where else they must have been starved or knocked on the head by the Spaniards They came aboard their Ships again the 31st of October This Lagune is about the lat of 16 d. 40 m. North. From hence we made sail again coasting to the Westward having fair weather and a Current setting to the West The second day of November we past by a Rock called by the Spaniards the Algatross The Land hereabout is of an indifferent height and woody and more within the Country Mountainous Here are 7 or 8 white cliffs by the Sea which are very remarkable because there are none so white and so thick together on all the Coast. They are 5 or 6 mile to the West of the Algatross Rock There is a dangerous shoal lieth S. by W. from these Cliffs 4 or 5 mile off at Sea Two leagues to the West of these Cliffs there is a pretty large River which forms a small Island at its mouth The Channel on the East side is but shoal and sandy but the West Channel is deep enough for Canoas to enter On the Banks of this Channel the Spaniards have made a Brestwork to hinder an Enemy from landing or filling Water The 3d day we anchored abrest of this River in 14 fathom Water about a mile and a half off shore The next morning we mann'd our Canoas and went ashore to the Brestwork with little resistance although there were about 200 men to keep us off They fired about 20 or 30 Guns at us but seeing we were resolved to land they quitted the place one chief reason why the Spaniards are so frequently routed by us although many times much our superiors in numbers and in many places fortified with Brestworks is their want of small Fire-arms for they have but few on all the Sea Coasts unless near their larger Garrisons Here we found a great deal of Salt brought hither as I judge for to salt Fish which they take in the Lagunes The Fish I observed here mostly were what we call Snooks neither a Sea-fish nor fresh Water-fish but very numerous in these salt Lakes This Fish is about a foot long and round and as thick as the small of a mans Leg with a pretty long head It hath Scales of a whitish colour and is good meat How the Spaniards take them I know not for we never found any Nets Hooks or Lines neither yet any Bark Boat or Canoa among them on all this Coast except the Ship I shall mention at Acapulco We marched 2 or 3 leagues into the Country and met with but one House where we took a Mulatto Prisoner who informed us of a Ship that was lately arrived at Acapulco she came from Lima. Captain Townly wanting a good Ship thought now he had an opportunity of getting one if he could perswade his men to venture with him into the Harbour of Acapulco and fetch this Lima Ship out Therefore he immediately proposed it and found not only all his own men willing to assist him but many of Captain Swan's men also Captain Swan opposed it because Provision being scarce with us he thought our time might be much better imployed in first providing our selves with food and here was plenty of Maiz in the River where we now were as we were informed by the same Prisoner who offered to conduct us to the place where it was But neither the present necessity nor Captain Swan's perswasion availed any thing no nor yet their own interest for the great design we had then in hand was to lye and wait for a rich Ship which comes to Acapulco every year richly laden from the Philippine Islands But it was necessary we should be well stored with Provisions to enable us to cruize about and wait the time of her coming However Townley's Party prevailing we only fill'd our Water here and made ready to be gone So the 5th day in the afternoon we sailed again coasting to the westward towards Acapulco The 7th day in the afternoon being about 12 leagues from the shore we saw the high Land of Acapulco which is very remarkable for there is a round Hill standing between other 2 Hills the westermost of which is the biggest and highest and hath two Hillocks like two paps on its top the eastermost Hill is higher and sharper than the middlemost From the middle Hill the Land declines toward the Sea ending in a high round point There is no Land shaped like this on all the Coast. In the evening Captain Townly went away from the Ships with 140 men in 12 Canoas to try to get the Lima Ship out of Acapulco Harbour Acapulco is a pretty large Town 17 degrees North of the Equator It is the Sea-port for the City of Mexico on the West side of the Continent as La Vera-Cruz or St. John d' Ulloa in the Bay of Nova Hispania is on the North side This Town is the only place of Trade on all this Coast for there is little or no Traffick by Sea on all the N. W. part of this vast Kingdom
and West Indies for thatching Houses they are very lasting and serviceable much surpassing the Palmeto For this Thatch if well laid on will endure 5 or 6 years and this is called by the Spaniards the Palmeto Royal. The English at Jamaica give it the same Name Whether this be the same which they in Guinea get the Palm-wine from I know not but I know that it is like this The Land in the Country is full of small peeked barren Hills making as many little Valleys which appear flourishing and green At the West end of this Bay is the Hill of Petaplan in lat 17d 30 m. N. This is a round point stretching out into the Sea at a distance it seems to be an Island A little to the West of this Hill are several round Rocks which we left without us steering in between them and the round point where we had 11 fathom water We came to an anchor on the N. W. side of the Hill and went ashore about 170 Men of us and marched into the Country 12 or 14 miles There we came to a poor Indian Village that did not afford us a Meal of Victuals The people all fled only a Mulatto woman and 3 or 4 small Children who were taken and brought aboard She told us that a Carrier one who drives a Caravan of Mules was going to Acapulco laden with Flower and other Goods but stopt in the Road for fear of us a little to the West of this Village for he had heard of our being on this Coast and she thought he still remained there and therefore it was we kept the Woman to be our Guide to carry us to that place At this place where we now lay our Moskito-men struck some small Turtle and many small Jew-fish The Jew-fish is a very good Fish and I judge so called by the English because it hath Scales and Fins therefore a clean Fish according to the Levitical Law and the Jews at Jamaica buy them and eat them very freely It is a very large Fish shaped much like a Cod but a great deal bigger one will weigh 3 or 4 or 5 hundred weight It hath 3 large head with great Fins and Scales as big as an Half-Crown answerable to the bigness of his body It is very sweet Meat and commonly fat This Fish lives among Rocks there are plenty of them in the West Indies about Jamaica and the Coast of Caraccos but chiefly in these Seas especially more Westward We went from hence with our Ships the 18th day and steered West about 2 leagues farther to a place called Chequetan A mile and half from the shore there is a small Key and within it is a very good Harbour where Ships may careen there is also a small River of fresh water and wood enough The 14th day in the morning we went with 95 Men in 6 Canoas to seek for the Carrier taking the Mulatto woman for our Guide but Captain Townly would not go with us Before day we landed at a place called Estapa a league to the West of Chequetan The woman was well acquainted here having been often at this place for Muscles as she told us for here are great plenty of them they seem in all respects like our English Muscles She carry'd us through the pathless Wood by the side of a River for about a league then we came into a Savannah full of Bulls and Cows and here the Carrier before mentioned was lying at the Estantion-house with his Mules not having dared to advance all this while as not knowing where we lay so his own fear made him his Mules and all his Goods become a Prey to us He had 40 packs of Flower some Chocolate a great many small Cheeses and abundance of Earthen Ware The eatables we brought away but the Earthen Vessels we had no occasion for and therefore left them The Mules were about 60 we brought our Prize with them to the shore and so turn'd them away Here we also kill'd some Cows and brought with us to our Canoas In the afternoon our Ships came to an anchor half a mile from the place where we landed and then we went aboard Captain Townly seeing our good success went ashore with his Men to kill some Cows for here were no Inhabitants near to oppose us The Land is very woody of a good fertile soil watered with many small Rivers yet it hath but few Inhabitants near the Sea Captain Townly killed 18 Beefs and after he came aboard our Men contrary to Captain Swan's inclination gave Captain Townly part of the Flower which we took ashore Afterwards we gave the Woman some Cloaths for her and her Children and put her and two of them ashore but one of them a very pretty Boy about 7 or 8 years old Captain Swan kept The Woman cried and begg'd hard to have him but Captain Swan would not but promis'd to make much of him and was as good as his word He proved afterwards a very fine Boy for Wit Courage and Dexterity I have often wonder'd at his Expressions and Actions The 21st day in the evening we sailed hence with the Land-wind The Land-winds on this part of the Coast are at N. and the Sea-winds at W. S. W. We had fair weather and coasted along to the Westward The Land is high and full of ragged Hills and West from these ragged Hills the Land makes many pleasant and fruitful Valleys among the Mountains The 25th day we were abrest of a very remarkable Hill which towring above the rest of its fellows is divided in the top and makes two small parts It is in lat 18 d. 8 m. North. The Spaniards make mention of a Town called Thelupan near this Hill which we would have visited if we could have found the way to it The 26th day Captain Swan and Captain Townly with 200 Men of whom I was one went in our Canoas to seek for the City of Colima a rich place by report but how far within Land I could never learn for as I said before here is no Trade by Sea and therefore we could never get Guides to inform us or conduct us to any Town but one or two on this Coast and there is never a Town that lieth open to the Sea but Acapulco and therefore our search was commonly fruitless as now for we rowed above 20 leagues along shore and found it a very bad Coast to land we saw no House nor sign of Inhabitants although we past by a fine Valley called the Valley of Maguella only at two places the one at our first setting out on this Expedttion and the other at the end of it we saw a Horseman set as we supposed as a Centinel to watch us At both places we landed with difficulty and at each place we followed the track of the Horse on the sandy Bay but where they entered the Woods we lost the track and although we diligently searcht for it yet we could find it no more so we
told them that the River Rosario is rich in Gold and that the Mines are not above 2 leagues from the Town Captain Swan did not think it convenient to go to the Mines but made haste aboard with the Maiz which he took there to the quantity of about 80 or 90 Bushels and which to us in the scarcity we were in of Provisions was at that time more valuable than all the Gold in the world and had he gone to the Mines the Spaniards would probably have destroyed the Corn before his return The 3d day of February we went with our Ships also towards the River Rosario and anchored the next day against the Rivers mouth in 7 fathom good oazy ground a league from the shore This River is in lat 22 d 51 m. N. When you are at an anchor against this River you will see a round Hill like a Sugar-loaf a little way within Land right over the River and bearing N. E. by N. To the Westward of that Hill there is another pretty long Hill called by the Spaniards Caput Cavalli or the Horse's Head The 7th day Captain Swan came aboard with the Maiz which he got This was but a small quantity for so many Men as we were especially considering the place we were in being strangers and having no Pilots to direct or guide us into any River and we being without all sort of Provision but what we were forced to get in this manner from the shore And though our Pilot-book directed us well enough to find the Rivers yet for want of Guides to carry us to the Settlements we were forced to search 2 or 3 days before we could find a place to land for as I have said before besides the Seas being too rough for landing in many places they have neither Boat Bark nor Canoa that we could ever see or hear of and therefore as there are no such landing places in these Rivers as there are in the South Seas so when we were landed we did not know which way to go to any Town except we accidentally met with a path Indeed the Spaniards and Indians whom we had aboard knew the Names of several Rivers and Towns near them and knew the Towns when they saw them but they knew not the way to go to them from the Sea The 8th day Captain Swan sent about 40 men to seek for the River Oleta which is to the East-ward of the River Rosario The next day we followed after with the Ships having the Wind at W. N. W. and fair weather In the afternoon our Canoas came again to us for they could not find the River Oleta therefore we designed next for the River St. Jago to the Eastward still The 11th day in the evening we anchored against the mouth of the River in 7 fathom water good soft oazy ground and about 2 mile from the shore There was a high white Rock without us called Maxentelbo This Rock at a distance appears like a Ship under sail it bore from us W. N. W. distant about 3 leagues The Hill Zelisco bore S. E. which is a very high Hill in the Country with a Saddle or bending on the top The River St. Jago is in 〈◊〉 22 d. 15 m. It is one of the principal Rivers on this Coast there is 10 foot Water on the bar at low Water but how much it flows here I know not The mouth of this River is near half a mile broad and very smooth entring Within the mouth it is broader for there are 3 or 4 Rivers more meet there and issue all out together The Water is brackish a great way up yet there is fresh Water to be had by digging or making Wells in the sandy Bay 2 or 3 foot deep just at the mouth of the River The 11th day Captain Swan sent 70 men in 4 Canoas into this River to seek a Town for although we had no intelligence of any yet the Country appearing very promising we did not question but they would find Inhabitants before they returned They spent 2 days in rowing up and down the Creeks and Rivers at last they came to a large Field of Maiz which was almost ripe They immediately fell to gathering as fast as they could and intended to lade the Canoas but seeing an Indian that was set to watch the Corn they quitted that troublesom and tedious work and seiz'd him and brought him aboard in hopes by his information to have some more easy and expedite way of a supply by finding Corn ready cut and dried He being examined said that there was a Town called Santa Pecaque 4 leagues from the place where he was taken and that if we designed to go thither he would undertake to be our Guide Captain Swan immediately ordered his men to make ready and the same evening went away with 8 Canoas and 140 men taking the Indian for their Guide He rowed about 5 leagues up the River and landed the next morning The River at this place was not above Pistol shot wide and the Banks pretty high one each side and the Land plain and even He left 23 men to guard the Canoas and marcht with the rest to the Town He set out from the Canoas at 6 a clock in the morning and reacht the Town by 10. The way thro which he passed was very plain part of it Wood-land part Savannahs The Savannahs were full of Horses Bulls and Cows The Spaniards seeing him coming run all away so he entered the Town without the least opposition This Town of Santa Pecaque stands on a Plain in a Savannah by the side of a VVood with many Fruit Trees about it It is but a small Town but very regular after the Spanish mode with a Parade in the midst The Houses fronting the Parade had all Balconies there were 2 Churches one against the Parade the other at the end of the Town It is inhabited most with Spaniards Their chiefest occupation is Husbandry There are also some Carriers who are imployed by the Merchants of Compostella to trade for them to and from the Mines Compostella is a rich Town about 21 leagues from hence It is the chiefest in all this part of the Kingdom and is reported to have 70 white Families which is a great matter in these parts for it may be that such a Town hath not less than 500 Families of copper-coloured People besides the white The Silver Mines are about 5 or 6 leagues from Santa Pecaque where as we were told the Inhabitants of Compostella had some hundreds of Slaves at work The Silver here and all over the Kingdom of Mexico is said to be finer and richer in proportion than that of Potosi or Peru tho the Oar be not so abundant and the Carriers of this Town of Santa Pecaque carry the Oar to Compostella where it is refined These Carriers or Sutlers also furnish the Slaves at the Mines with Maiz whereof here was great plenty now in the Town designed for that
R. W 146 0 146 R. 12 58 E by N 25 W 146 0 146 R. 12 58 E by N 26 W 3 N 185 9 N 184 Ob. 13 7 E by N 27 W 140 0 140 Ob. 13 7 E by N 28 W 167 0 167 R. 13 7 E by N 29 W 2 N 172 5 171 Ob. 13 12 E 30 W 173 0 173 Ob. 13 12 E N E M. 1 W 196 0 196 R. 13 12 E by N 2 W 160 0 160 Ob. 13 12 E by N 3 W 154 0 154 R. 13 12 E N E 4 R. W. Ob. W 2 S 153 5 S 152 R. 13 12 Ob. 13 7 E N E 5 W 2 N 180 7 N 179 Ob. 13 14 E N E 6 W 3 N 172 9 N 171 Ob 13 22 E N E 7 W 160 〈◊〉 160 Ob. 13 22 E N E 8 W 3 S 149 7 S 148 Ob. 13 15 E by N 9 W 4 S 134 9 S 133 Ob. 13 6 E N E 10 W 128 0 128 R. 13 6 E N E 11 W 5 S 112 9 111 Ob. 12 57 〈◊〉 N E 12 W 128 0 128 R. 12 57 E N E 13 W 129 0 129 R. 12 57 E N E 14 W 128 0 128 R. 12 57 E N E 15 W 4 N 118 8 N 117 Ob. 13 5 E N E 16 W 6 S 114 11 S 113 Ob. 12 54 E N E 17 W 3 S 109 5 S 108 Ob. 12 49 E N E 18 W 120 0 120 R. 12 49 E N E 19 W 〈◊〉 0 137 R. 12 49 E N E 20 W 134 0 134 R. 12 50 E 21 N W 7 W 13 8 N 10 R. 12 59 E N E Summ of all the Westings 7323 Making Deg of Longitude in all 125 d. 11 m. Now the Island Guam bore N. N. E. 8 leagues dist this gives 22 m. to my Lat. and takes 9 from my Meridian dist so that the Island is in Lat. 13 21 and the Merid. dist from Cape Corrientes 7302 miles which reduced into degrees makes 125 d. 11 m. The Table consists of 7 Columns The first is of the days of the month The 2d Column contains each days course or the Point of the Compass we ran upon The 3d gives the distance or length of such course in Italian or Geometrical miles at the rate of 60 to a degree or the progress the Ship makes every day and is reckoned always from noon to noon But because the course is not always made upon the same Rumb in a direct line therefore the 4th and 5th Columns shew how many miles we ran to the South every day and how many to the West which last was our main run in this Voyage By the 17th of April we were got pretty near into the latitude of Guam and our course then lying along that parallel our Northing and Southing consequently were but little according as the Ship deviated from its direct course and such deviation is thenceforward exprest by N. or S. in the 5th Column and the Ships keeping straight on the West Rumb by 0 that is to say no Northing or Southing The 6th Columns shews the lat we were in every day where R. signifies the dead Reckoning by the running of the Logs and Ob. shews the lat by observation The 7th Column shews the Wind and Weather To these I would have added an 8th Column to shew the Variation of the Needle but as it was very small in this course so neither did we make any observation of it above once after we were set out from the Mexican Coast At our departure from Cape Corrientes we found it to be 4 d. 28 m. Easterly and the observation we made of it afterwards when we had gone about a third of the Voyage shewed it to be so near the same but decreasing Neither did we observe it at Guam for Captain Swan who had the Instruments in his Cabbin did not seem much to regard it Yet I am inclined to think that at Guam the Variation might be either none at all or even increasing to the Westward To conclude May 20th at noon when we begin to call it 21st we were in lat 12 d. 50 m. N. by R. having run since the noon before 134 miles directly West We continued the same course till 2 that afternoon for which I allow 10 miles more West still and then finding the parallel we ran upon to be too much Southerly we clapt on a Wind and sailed directly North till 5 in the afternoon having in that time run 8 mile and increased our latitude so many minutes making it 12 d. 58 m. We then saw the Island Guam bearing N. N. E. distant from us about 8 leagues which gives the latitude of the Island 13. d. 20 m. And according to the account foregoing its longitude is 125 d. 11 m. West from Cape Corrientes on the Coast of Mexico allowing 58 and 59 Italian miles to a degree in these latitudes at the common rate of 60 miles to a degree of the Equator as before computed As a Corollary from hence it will follow that upon a supposal of the truth of the general allowance Seamen make of 60 Italian miles to an Equinoctial degree that the South Sea must be of a greater breadth by 25 degrees than it s commonly reckoned by Hydrographers who makes it only about 100 more or less For since we found as I shall have occasion to say the distance from Guam to the Eastern parts of Asia to be much the same with the common reckoning it follows by way of necessary consequence from hence that the 25 degrees of longitude or there abouts which are under-reckon'd in the distance between America and the East Indies Westward must be over reckoned in the breadth of Asia and Africk the Atlantick Sea or the American Continent or all together and so that Tract of the Terraqueous Globe must be so much shortened And for a further confirmation of the fact I shall add that as to the Aethiopick or Indian Sea its breadth must be considerably less than 't is generally calculated to be if it be true what I have heard over and over from several able Seamen whom I have conversed with in those parts that Ships sailing from the Cape of Good Hope to New-Holland as many Ships bound to Java or thereabouts keep that lat find themselves there and sometimes to their cost running a ground when they have thought themselves to be a great way off and 't is from hence possibly that the Dutch call that part of this Coast the Land of Indraught as if it magnetically drew Ships too fast to it and give cautions to avoid it But I rather think 't is the nearness of the Land than any Whirlpool or the like that surprizes them As to the breadth of the Atlantick Sea I am from good hands assured that it is over-reckoned by 6 7 8 or 10 degrees for besides my different draughts of the concurrent Accounts of several experienced men who have â—…onfirmed the same to me Mr.
us to be jogging from hence unless we were resolved to return back to America again Captain Swan returned him thanks for his kindness and advice and took his leave and the same day sent the Frier ashore that was seized on at our first arrival and gave him a large Brass Clock an Astralobe and a large Telescope for which Present the Frier sent us aboard 6 Hogs and a roasting Pig 3 or 4 Bushels of Potatoes and 50 l. of Manila Tobacco Then we prepared to be gone being pretty well furnished with Provision to carry us to Mindanao where we designed next to touch We took aboard us as many Coco-nuts as we could well stow and we had a good stock of Rice and about 50 Hogs in Salt CHAP. XI They resolve to go to Mindanao Their departure from Guam Of the Philippine Islands The Isle Luconia and its chief Town and Port Manilo Manila or Manilbo Of the rich Trade we might establish with these Islands St. Johns Island They arrive at Mindanao The Island described It s Fertility The Libby Trees and the Sago made of them The Plantain Tree Fruit Liquor and Cloth A smaller Plantain at Mindanao The Bonano Of the Clove-bark Cloves and Nutmegs and the Methods taken by the Dutch to monopolize the Spices The Betel-nut and Arek tree The Durian and the Jaca tree and Fruit. The Beasts of Mindanao Centapes or Forty Legs a venemous Insect and others Their Fowls Fish c. The Temperature of the Climate with the Course of the Winds Tornadoes Rain and Temper of the Air throughout the year WHile we lay at Guam we took up a Resolution of going to Mindanao one of the Philippine Islands being told by the Frier and others that it was exceedingly well stored with Provisions that the Natives were Mahometans and that they had formerly a Commerce with the Spaniards but that now they were at wars with them This Island was therefore thought to be a convenient place for us to go to for besides that it was in our way to the East Indies which we had resolved to visit and that the Westerly Monsoon was at hand which would oblige us to shelter some where in a short time and that we could not expect good Harbours in a better place than in so large an Island as Mindanao besides all this I say the Inhabitants of Mindanao being then as we were told tho falsly at Wars with the Spaniards our Men who it should seem were very squeamish of plundering without Licence derived hopes from thence of getting a Commission there from the Prince of the Island to plunder the Spanish Ships about Manila and so to make Mindanao their common Rendezvouz And if Captain Swan was minded to go to an English Port yet his Men who thought he intended to leave them hoped to get Vessels and Pilots at Mindanao fit for their turn to cruise on the Coast of Manila As for Captain Swan he was willing enough to go thither as best suiting his own design and therefore this Voyage was concluded on by general consent Accordingly June 22d 1686. we left Guam bound for Mindanoa We had fair weather and a pretty smart gale of Wind at East for 3 or 4 days and then it shifted to the S. W. being rainy but it soon came about again to the East and blew a gentle gale yet it often shuffled about to the S. E. For though in the East Indies the Winds shift in April yet we found this to be the shifting season for the Winds here the other shifting season being in October sooner or later all over India As to our course from Guam to the Philippine Islands we found it as I intimated before agreeable enough with the account of our common Draughts The 21st day of July we arrived at the Island St. John which is one of the Philippine Islands The Philippines are a great company of large Islands taking up about 13 deg of Lat. in length reaching near upon from 5 d. of North Lat. to the 19th degree and in breadth about 6 deg of Longitude They derive this Name from Philip the 2d King of Spain and even now they do most of them belong to that Crown The chiefest Island in this range is Luconia which lies on the North of them all At this Island Magellan died in the Voyage that he was making round the VVorld For after he had past those Streights between the South end of America and Terra del Fuego which now bear his Name and had ranged down in the South Seas on the back of America from thence stretching over to the East Indies he fell in with the Ladrone Islands and from thence steering East still he fell in with these Philippine Islands and anchored at Luconia where he warr'd with the native Indians to bring them in obedience to his master the King of Spain and was by them kill'd with a poysoned Arrow It is now wholly under the Spaniards who have several Towns there The chief is Manilo which is a large Sea-port Town near the S. E. end opposite to the Island Mindora It is a place of great strength and trade The two great Acapulco Ships before-mentioned fetching from hence all sorts of East-India commodities which are brought hither by foreigners especially by the Chinese and the Portuguese Sometimes the English Merchants of Fort St. George send their Ships hither as it were by stealth under the charge of Portugueze Pilots and Mariners for as yet we cannot get the Spaniards there to a commerce with us or the Dutch although they have but few Ships of their own This seems to arise from a jealousie or fear of discovering the riches of these Islands for most if not all the Philippine Islands are rich in Gold and the Spaniards have no place of much strength in all these Islands that I could ever hear of besides Manilo it self Yet they have Villages and Towns on several of the Islands and Padres or Priests to instruct the native Indians from whom they get their Gold The Spanish Inhabitants of the smaller Islands especially would willingly trade with us if the Government was not so severe against it for they have no goods but what are brought from Manilo at an extraordinary dear rate I am of the opinion that if any of our Nations would seek a trade with them they would not lose their labour for the Spaniards can and will Smuggle as our Sea-men call Trading by stealth as well as any Nation that I know and our Jamaicans are to their profit sensible enough of it And I have been informed that Captain Goodlud of London in a Voyage which he made from Mindanao to China touch'd at some of these Islands and was civilly treated by the Spaniards who bought some of his Commodities giving him a very good price for the same There are about 12 or 14 more large Islands lying to the Southwards of Luconia most of which as I said before are inhabited by the Spaniards
Besides these there are an infinite number of small Islands of no account and even the great Islands many of them are without Names or at least so variously set down that I find the same Islands named by divers Names The Island St. John and Mindanao are the Southern-most of all these Islands and are the only Islands in all this Range that are not subject to the Spaniards St. Johns Island is on the East side of the Mindanao and distant from it 3 or 4 leagues It is in lat about 7 or 8 North. This Island is in length about 38 leagues stretching N. N. W. and S. S. E. and it is in breadth about 24 leagues in the middle of the Island The Northermost end is broader and the Southermost is narrower This Island is of a good heighth and is full of many small hills The Land at the South East end where I was ashore is of a black fat mould and the whole Island seems to partake of the same fatness by the vast number of large Trees that it produceth for it looks all over like one great Grove As we were passing by the S. E. end we saw a Canoa of the Natives under the shore therefore one of our Canoas went after to have spoken with her but she run away from us seeing themselves chaced put their Canoa ashore leaving her fled into the Woods nor would be allured to come to us altho we did what we could to entice them besides these Men we saw no more here nor sign of any Inhabitants at this end When we came aboard our Ship again we steered away for the Island Mindanao which was now fair in sight of us it being about 10 leagues distant from this part of St. Johns The 22d day we came within a league of the East side of the Island Mindanao and having the Wind at S. E. we steered toward the North end keeping on the East side till we came into the lat of 7d 40 m. and there we anchored in a small Bay about a mile from the shore in 10 fathom Water rocky foul ground Some of our Books gave us an account that Mindanao City and Isle lies in 7d 40 m. we guest that the middle of the Island might lye in this lat but we were at a great loss where to find the City whether on the East or West side Indeed had it been a small Island lying open to the Eastern Wind we might probably have searched first on the West side for commonly the Islands within the Tropicks or within the bounds of the Trade-Winds have their Harbours on the West sido as best sheltered but the Island Mindanao being guarded on the East side by St. Johns Island we might as reasonably expect to find the Harbour and City on this side as any where else but coming into the lat in which we judg'd the City might be found no Canoas or People that might give as any umbrage of a City or place of Trade near at hand though we coasted within a league of the shore The Island Mindanao is the biggest of all the Philippine Islands except Luconia It is about 60 leagues long and 40 or 50 broad The South end is in about 5 d. N. and the N. W. end reacheth almost to 8 d. N. It is a very mountainous Island full of Hills and Valleys The Mould in general is deep and black and extraordinary fat and fruitful The sides of the Hills are stony yet productive enough of very large tall Trees In the heart of the Country there are some Mountains that yield good Gold The Valleys are well moistned with pleasant Brooks and small Rivers of delicate Water and have Trees of divers sorts flourishing and green all the year The Trees in general are very large and most of them are of kinds unknown to us There is one sort which deserves particular notice called by the Natives Libby Trees These grow wild in great Groves of 5 or 6 mile long by the sides of the Rivers Of these Trees Sago is made which the poor Country People eat instead of Bread 3 or 4 months in the year This Tree for its body and shape is much like the Palmeto tree or the Cabbage tree but not so tall as the latter The Bark and Wood is hard and thin like a Shell and full of white Pith like the Pith of an Elder This Tree they cut down and split it in the middle and scrape out all the Pith which they beat lustily with a wooden Pestle in a great Mortar or Trough and then put into a Cloth or Strainer held over a Trough and pouring Water in among the Pith they stir it about in the Cloth so the Water carries all the substance of the Pith through the Cloth down into the Trough leaving nothing in the Cloth but a light sort of Husk which they throw away but that which falls into the Trough settles in a short time to the bottom like Mud and then they draw off the Water and take up the muddy substance wherewith they make Cakes which being baked proves very good Bread The Mindanao People live 3 or 4 months of the year on this food for their Bread kind The Native Indians of Teranate and Tidore and all the Spice Islands have plenty of these Trees and use them for food in the same manner as I have been inform'd by Mr. Caril Rofy who is now Commander of one of the Kings Ships He was one of our company at this time and being left with Captain Swan at Mindanao went afterwards to Teranate and lived there among the Dutch a year or two The Sago which is transported into other parts of the East Indies is dried in small pieces like little Seeds or Comfits and commonly eaten with Milk of Almonds by those that are troubled with the Flux for it is a great binder and very good in that distemper In some places of Mindanao there is plenty of Rice but in the hilly Land they plant Yams Potatoes and Pumkins all which thrive very well The other Fruits of this Island are Water-Melons Musk-Melons Plantains Bonanoes Guava's Nutmegs Cloves Betel-nuts Durians Jacks or Jaca's Coco-nuts Oranges c. The Plantain I take to be the King of all Fruit not except the Coco it self The Tree that bears this Fruit is about 3 foot or 3 foot and an half round and about 10 or 12 foot high These Trees are not raised from seed for they seem not to have any but from the roots of other old Trees If these young suckers are taken out of the ground and planted in another place it will be 15 months before they bear but if let stand in their own native Soil they will bear in 12 months As soon as the Fruit is ripe the Tree decays but then there are many young ones growing up to supply its place When this Tree first springs out of the ground it comes up with 2 leaves and by that time it is a foot
small Tree or Shrub of a green Bark and the Leaf is long and broader than a Willow They are packt up to sell into parts that have them not to chew with the Betel The Betel-nut is most esteem'd when it is young and before it grows hard and then they cut it only in two pieces with the green husk or shell on it It is then exceeding juicy and therefore makes them spit much It tastes rough in the mouth and dies the Lips red and makes the Teeth black but it preserves them and cleanseth the Gums It is also accounted very wholesom for the Stomach but sometimes it will cause great giddiness in the head of those that are not use to chew it But this is the effect only of the old Nut for the young Nuts will not do it I speak of my own experience This Island produceth also Durians and Jacks The Trees that bear the Durians are as big as Apple Trees full of Boughs The Rind is thick and rough the Fruit is so large that they grow only about the Bodies or on the Limbs near the Body like the Cacao The Fruit is about the bigness of a large Pumkin covered with a thick green rough Rind When it is ripe the Rind begins to turn yellow but it is not fit to eat till it opens at the top Then the Fruit in the inside is ripe and sends forth an excellent scent When the Rind is opened the Fruit may be split into 4 quarters each quarter hath several small cells that inclose a certain quantity of the Fruit according to the bigness of the cell for some are larger than others The largest of the Fruit may be as big as a Pullets Egg T is as white as Milk and as soft as Cream and the taste very delicious to those that are accustomed to them but those who have not been used to eat them will dislike them at first because they smell like roasted Onions This Fruit must be eaten in its prime for there is no eating of it before it is ripe and even then 't will not keep above a day or two before it putrifies and turns black or of a dark colour and then it is not good Within the Fruit there is a stone as big as a small Bean which hath a thin shell over it Those that are minded to eat the Stones or Nuts roast them and then a thin shell comes off which incloses the Nut and it eats like a Chasenut The Jack or Jaca is much like the Durian both in bigness and shape The Trees that bear them also are much alike and so is their manner of the Fruits growing But the inside is different for the Fruit of the Durian is white that of the Jack is yellow and fuller of Stones The Durian is most esteemed yet the Jack is very pleasant Fruit and the Stones or Kernels are good roasted There are many other sorts of Grain Roots and Fruits in this Island which to give a particular description of would fill up a large Volume In this Island are also many sorts of Beasts both wild and tame as Horses Bulls and Cows Buffaloes Goats Wild-hogs Deer Monkies Guano's Lizards Snakes c. I never saw or heard of any Beasts of Prey here as in many other places The Hogs are ugly Creatures they have all great Knobs growing over their Eyes and there are multitudes of them in the Woods They are commonly very poor yet sweet Dear are here very plentiful in some places where they are not disturbed Of the venemous kind of Creatures here are Scorpions whose sting is in their Tail and Centapees call'd by the English 40 Legs both which are also common in the West Indies in Jamaica and elsewhere These Centapees are 4 or 5 inches long as big as a Goose quill but flattish of a dun or reddish colour on the Back but Belly whitish and full of Legs on each side the Belly Their sting or bite is more raging than the Scorpion They lye in old Houses and dry Timber There are several sorts of Snakes some very poisonous There is another sort of Creature like a Guano both in colour and shape but 4 times as big whose Tongue is like a small Harpoon having two beards like the beards of a Fishook They are said to be very venemous but I know not their names I have seen them in other places also as at Pulo Condore or the Island Condore and at Achin and have been told that they are in the Bay of Bengal The Fowls of this Country are Ducks and Hens Other tame Fowl I have not seen nor heard of any The wild Fowl are Pidgeons Parrots Parakits Turtle-dove and abundance of small Fowls There are Bats as big as a Kite There are a great many Harbours Creeks and good Bays for Ships to ride in and Rivers navigable for Canoas Proes or Barks which are all plentifully stored with Fish of divers sorts so is also the adjacent Sea The chiefest Fish are Bonetas Snooks Cavally's Bremes Mullets 10 Pownders c. Here are also plenty of Sea Turtle and small Manatee which are not near so big as those in the West Indies The biggest that I saw would not weigh above 600 l. but the flesh both of the Turtle and Manatee are very sweet The weather at Mindanao is temperate enough as to heat for all it lies so near the Equator and especially on the borders near the Sea There they commonly enjoy the breezes by day and cooling Land-winds at night The Winds are Easterly one part of the year and Westerly the other The Easterly winds begin to set in October and it is the middle of November before they are settled These Winds bring fair weather The Westerly Winds begin to blow in May but are not settled till a month afterwards The West Winds always bring Rain Tornadoes and very tempestuous Weather At the first coming in of these Winds they blow but faintly but then the Tornadoes rise one in a day sometimes two These are Thunder-showers which commonly come against the Wind bringing with them a contrary Wind to what did blow before After the Tornadoes are over the Wind shifts about again and the Sky becomes clear yet then in the Valleys and the sides of the Mountains there riseth a thick fog which covers the Land The Tornadoes continue thus for a week or more then they come thicker 2 or 3 in a day bringing violent gusts of Wind and terrible claps of Thunder At last they come so fast that the Wind remains in the quarter from whence these Tornadoes do rise which is out of the West and there it settles till October or November When these Westward Winds are thus settled the Sky is all in mourning being covered with black Clouds pouring down excessive Rains sometimes mixt with Thunder and Lightning that nothing can be more dismal The Winds raging to that degree that the biggest Trees are torn up by the Roots and the Rivers swell and overflow
vocal Musick here by what I could learn except only a row of a kind of Bells without clappers 16 in number and their weight increasing gradually from about 3 to 10 pound weight These were set in a row on a Table on the Generals House where for 7 or 8 days together before the Circumcision day they were struck each with a little stick for the biggest part of the day making a great noise and they ceased that morning So these dancing Women sung themselves and danced to their own Musick After this the General 's Women and the Sultans Sons and his Nieces danced Two of the Sultans Nieces were about 18 or 19 years old the other two were 3 or 4 years younger These young Ladies were very richly drest with loose Garments of Silk and small Coronets on their Heads They were much fairer than any Women that I did ever see there and very well featured and their Noses tho but small yet higher than the other Womens and very well proportioned When the Ladies had very well diverted themselves and the company with dancing the General caused us to fire some Sky-rockets that were made by his and Captain Swan's order purposely for this nights solemnity and after that the Sultan and his retinue went away with a few attendants and we all broke up and thus ended this days solemnity but the Boys being sore with their Amputation went straddling for a fortnight after They are not as I said before very curious or strict in observing any days or times of particular Devotions except it be the Ramdam time as we call it The Ramdam time was then in August as I take it for it was shortly after our arrival here In this time they fast all day and about 7 a clock in the evening they spend near an hour in Prayer Towards the latter end of their Prayer they loudly invoke their Prophet for about a quarter of an hour both old and young bawling out very strangely as if they intended to fright him out of his sleepiness or neglect of them After their Prayer is ended they spend sometime in feasting before they take their repose Thus they do every day for a whole month at least for sometimes 't is 2 or 3 days longer before the RAmdam ends for it begins at the new Moon and lasts till they see the next new Moon which sometimes in thick hazy Weather is not till 3 or 4 days after the change as it happen'd while I was at Achin where they continued the Ramdam till the new Moons appearance The next day after they have seen the new Moon the Guns are all discharged about noon and then the time ends A main part of their Religion consists in washing often to keep themselves from being desiled or after they are defiled to cleanse themselves again They also take great care to keep themselves from being polluted by tasting or touching any thing that is accounted unclean therefore Swines flesh is very abominable to them nay any one that hath either tasted of Swines flesh or touched those Creatures is not permitted to come into their Houses in many days after and there is nothing will scare them more than a Swine Yet there are wild Hogs in the Islands and those so plentiful that they will come in Troops out of the Woods in the night into the very City and come under their Houses to romage up and down the filth that they find there The Natives therefore would even desire us to lye in wait for the Hogs to destroy them which we did frequently by shooting them and carrying them presently on board but were prohibited their Houses afterwards And now I am on this subject I cannot omit a story concerning the General He once desired to have a pair of Shoes made after the English fashion tho he did very seldom wear any So one of our men made him a pair which the General liked very well Afterwards some body told him that the Thread wherewith the Shoes were sowed were pointed with Hogs bristles This put him into a great passion so he sent the Shoes to the man that made them and sent him withal more Leather to make another pair with Threads pointed with some other hair which was immediately done and then he was well pleased CHAP. XIII Their coasting along the Isle of Mindanao from a Bay on the East side to another at the S. E. end Tornadoes and boisterous Weather The S. E. Coast and its Savannah and plenty of Deer They coast along the South side to the River of Mindanao City and anchor there The Sultans Brother and Son come aboard them and invite them to settle there Of the Feasibleness and probable Advantage of such a Settlement from the Neighbouring Gold and Spice Islands Of the best way to Mindanao by the South Sea and Terra Australis and of an accidental Discovery there by Captain Davis and a probability of a greater The capacity they were in to settle here The Mindanaians measure their Ship Captain Swan 's Present to the Sultan his Reception of it and Audience given to Captain Swan with Raja Laut the Sultans Brother's Entertainment of him The Contents of 2 English Letters shewn them by the Sultan of Mindanao Of the Commodities and the Punishment there The Generals Caution how to demean themselves at his Persuasion they lay up their Ships in the River The Mindanaians Caresses The great Rains and Floods at the City The Mindanaians have Chinese Accomptants How their Women dance A Story of one John Thacker Their Bark eaten up and their Ship indanger'd by the Worm Of the Worms here and elsewhere Of Captain Swan Raja Laut the General 's Deceitfulness Hunting wild Kine The Prodigality of some of the English Captain Swan treats with a young Indian of a Spice-Island A Hunting Voyage with the General His punishing a Servant of his Of his Wives and Women A sort of strong Rice Drink The Generals foul Dealing and Exactions Captain Swan s Uneasiness and indiscreet Management His Men mutiny Of a Snake twisting about one of their Necks The main part of the Crew go away with the Ship leaving Captain Swan and some of his Men several others poysoned there HAving in the two last Chapters given some account of the Natural Civil and Religious State of Mindanao I shall now go on with the prosecution of our affairs during our stay there 'T was in a Bay on the N. East side of the Island that we came to an anchor as hath been said We lay in this Bay but one night and part of the next day Yet there we got speech with some of the Natives who by signs made us understand that the City Mindanao was on the West side of the Island We endeavoured to perswade one of them to go with us to be our Pilot but he would not Therefore in the afternoon we loosed from hence steering again to the South East having the Wind at S. W. When we came to
for a place to careen in and the 16th day we entered the Harbour and immediately provided to careen Some Men were set to fell great Trees to saw into Plank others went to unrigging the Ship some made a House to put our Goods in and for the Sailmaker to work in The Country People resorted to us and brought us of the fruits of the Island with Hogs and sometimes Turtle for which they received Rice in exchange which we had a Ship load of taken at Manila We bought of them also a good quantity of their pitchy Liquor which we boyled and used about our Ships bottom We mixed it first with Lime which we made here and it made an excellent coat and stuck on very well We staid in this Harbour from the 16th day of March tiil the 16th day of April in which time we made a new Suit of Sails of the Cloath that was taken in the Prize We cut a spare Main-top-mast and sawed Plank to sheath the Ships bottom for she was not sheathed all over at Mindanao and that old Plank that was left on then we now ript off and clapt on new While we lay here 2 of our men dyed who were poysoned at Mindanao they told us of it when they found themselves poyson'd and had lingred ever since They were open d by our Doctor according to their own request before they dyed and their Livers were black light and dry like pieces of Cork Our business being finished here we left the Spanish Prize taken at Manila and most of the Rice taking out enough for our selves and on the 17th day we went from hence to the place where we first Anchored on the North side of the great Island purposely to water for there was a great stream when we first came to the Island and we thought it was so now But we found it dryed up only it stood in holes 2 or 3 Hogsheads or a Tun in a hole Therefore we did immediately cut Bamboos and made Spouts through which we conveyed the Water down to the Sea-side by taking it up in Bowls and pouring it into these Spouts or Troughs We conveyed some of it thus near half a mile While we were filling our Water Captain Read engaged an old man one of the Inhabitants of this Island the same who I said could speak the Malayan Language to be his Pilot to the Bay of Siam for he had often been telling us that he was well acquainted there and that he knew some Islands there where there were Fishermen lived who he thought could supply us with Salt-fish to eat at Sea for we had nothing but Rice to eat The Easterly Monsoon was not yet done therefore it was concluded to spend some time there and then take the advantage of the beginning of the Western Monsoon to return to Manila again The 21st day of April 1687 we sailed from Pulo Condore directing our course W. by S. for the Bay of Siam We had fair weather and a fine moderate gale of Wind at E. N. E. The 23d day we arrived at Pulo Uby or the Island Uby This Island is about 40 leagues to the Westward of Pulo Condore it lies just at the entrance of the Bay of Siam at the S. W. point of Land that makes the Bay namely the point of Cambodia This Island is about 7 or 8 leagues round and it is higher Land than any of Pulo Condore Isles Against the South East part of it there is a small Key about a Cables length from the main Island This Pulo Uby is very woody and it has good Water on the North side where you may anchor but the best anchoring is on the East side against a small Bay then you will have the little Island to the Southward of you At Pulo Uby we found two small Barks laden with Rice They belonged to Cambodia from whence they came not above two or three days before and they touched here to fill Water Rice is the general food of all these Countries therefore it is transported by Sea from one Country to another as Corn is in these parts of the World For in some Countries they produce more than enough for themseves and send what they can spare to those places where there is but little The 24th day we went into the Bay of Slam This is a large deep Bay of which and of this Kingdom I shall at present speak but little because I design a more particular account of all this Coast to wit of Tunquin Cochinchina Siam Champa Cambodia and Malacca making all the most Easterly part of the Continent of Asia lying South of China but to do it in the course of this Voyage would too much swell this Volume and I shall chuse therefore to give a separate relation of what I know or have learnt of them together with the Neighbouring parts of Sumatra Java c. where I have spent some time We run down into the Bay of Siam till we came to the Islands that our Pulo Condore Pilot told us of which lye about the middle of the Bay but as good a Pilot as he was he run us aground yet we had no damage Captain Read went ashore at these Islands where he found a small Town of Fishermen but they had no Fish to sell and so we returned empty We had yet fair weather and very little wind so that being often becalmed we were till the 13th day of May before we got to Pulo Uby again There we found two small Vessels at an anchor on the East side They were laden with Rice and Laquer which is used in Japaning of Cabinets One of these come from Champa bound to the Town of Malacca which belongs to the Dutch who took it from the Portuguese and this shews that they have a Trade with Champa This was a very pretty neat Vessel her bottom very clean and curiously coated she had about 40 men all armed with Cortans or broad Swords Lances and some Guns that went with a swivel upon their Gunnals They were of the Idolaters Natives of Champa and some of the briskest most sociable without fearfulness or shyness and the most neat and dexterous about their Shipping of any such I have met with in all my Travels The other Vessel came from the River of Cambodia and was bound towards the Streights of Malacca Both of them stopt here for the Westerly winds now began to blow which were against them being somewhat belated We anchored also on the East side intending to fill Water While we lay here we had very violent Winds at S. W. and a strong current setting right to Windward The fiercer the Wind blew the more strong the current set against it This storm lasted till the 20th day and then it began to abate The 21st day of May we went back from hence towards Pulo Condore In our way we overtook a great Jonk that came from Palimbam a Town on the Island Sumatra She was full laden with Pepper
over-board some into their Boats others into the Sea and they all made away for the shore But when we perceived their fright we made much of him that was in hold who stood trembling all the while and at last we gave him a small piece of Iron with which he immediately leapt overboard and swam to his Consorts who hovered about our Ship to see the issue Then we beckned to them to come aboard again being very loth to lose a commerce with them Some of the Boats came aboard again and they were always very honest and civil afterwards We presently after this sent a Canoa ashore to see their manner of living and what Provision they had The Canoas Crew were made very welcom with Bashee drink and saw abundance of Hogs some of which they bought and returned aboard After this the Natives brought aboard both Hogs and Goats to us in their own Boats and every day we should have 15 or 20 Hogs and Goats in Boats aboard by our side These we bought for a small matter we could buy a good fat Goat for an old Iron Hoop and a Hog of 70 or 80 pound weight for 2 or 3 pound of Iron Their Drink also they brought off in Jars which we bought for old Nails Spikes and Leaden Bullets Beside the forementioned Commodities they brought aboard great quantities of Yams and Potatoes which we purchased for Nails Spikes or Bullets It was one Man's work to be all day cutting out Bars of Iron into small pieces with a cold Chisel and these were for the great purchases of Hogs and Goats which they would not sell for Nails as their Drink and Roots We never let them know what store we have that they may value it the more Every morning assoon as it was light they would thus come aboard with their Commodities which we bought as we had occasion We did commonly furnish our selves with as many Goats and Roots as served us all the day and their Hogs we bought in large quantities as we thought convenient for we salted them Their Hogs were very sweet but I never saw so many meazled ones We filled all our Water at a curious Brook close by us in Graftons Isle where we first anchored We stayed there about 3 or 4 days before we went to other Islands We sailed to the Southward passing on the East side of Grafton Island and then passed thro between that and Monmouth Island but we found no anchoring till we came to the North end of Monmouth Island and there we stopt during one Tide The Tide runs very strong here and sometimes makes a short chopping Sea Its course amongst these Islands is S. by E. and N. by W. The flood sets to the North and ebb to to the South and it riseth and falleth 8 foot When we went from hence we coasted about 2 leagues to the Southward on the West side of Monmouth Island and finding no anchor ground we stood over to Bashee Island and came to an anchor on the North East part of it against a small sandy Bay in 7 fathom clean hard sand and about a quarter of a mile from the shore Here is a pretty wide Channel between these two Islands and anchoring all over it The depth of Water is 12 14 and 16 fathom We presently built a Tent ashore to mend our Sails in and stay'd all the rest of our time here viz. from the 13th day of August till the 26 day of September In which time we mended our Sails and scrubbed our Ships bottom very well and every day some of us went to their Towns and were kindly entertained by them Their Boats also came aboard with their Merchandise to sell and lay aboard all day and if we did not take it off their hands one day they would bring the same again the next We had yet the Winds at S. W. and S. S. W. mostly fair weather In October we did expect the Winds to shift to the N. E. and therefore we provided to sail as soon as the Eastern Monsoon was settled to cruise off of Manila Accordingly we provided a stock of Provision We salted 70 or 80 good fat Hogs and bought Yams and Potatoes good store to eat at Sea About the 24th day of September the Winds shifted about to the East and from thence to the N. E. fine fair weather The 25th it came at N. and began to grow fresh and the Sky began to be clouded and the Wind freshned on us At 12 a clock at night it blew a very fierce storm We were then riding with our best Bower a head and though our Yards and Top-mast were down yet we drove This obliged us to let go our Sheet Anchor veering out a good scope of Cable which stopt us till 10 or 11 a clock the next day Then the Wind came on so fierce that she drove again with both Anchors a head The Wind was now at N. by W. and we kept driving till 3 or 4 a clock in the afternoon and it was well for us that there were no Islands Rocks or Sands in our way for if there had we must have been driven upon them We used our utmost endeavours to stop her being loath to go to Sea because we had 6 of our Men ashore who could not get off now At last we were driven out into deep Water and then it was in vain to wait any longer Therefore we hove in our Sheet Cable and got up our Sheet Anchor and cut away our best Bower for to have heav'd her up then would have gone near to have foundred us and so put to Sea We had very violent weather the night ensuing with very hard Rain and we were forced to scud with our bare poles till 3 a clock in the morning Then the Wind slacken'd and we brought our Ship to under a mizen and lay with our head to the Westward The 27th day the Wind abated much but it rained very hard all day and the night ensuing The 28th day the Wind came about to the N. E. and it cleered up and blew a hard gale but it stood not there for it shifted about the Eastward thence to the S. E. then to the South and at last it settled at S. W. and then we had a moderate gale and fair weather It was the 29th day when the Wind came to the S. W. Then we made all the sail we could for the Island again The 30th day we had the Wind at West and saw the Islands but could not get in before night Therefore we stood off to the Southward till 2 a clock in the morning then we tackt and stood in all the morning and about 12 a clock the 1st day of October we anchored again at the place from whence we were driven Then our 6 men were brought aboard by the Natives to whom we gave 3 whole bars of Iron for their kindness and civility which was an extraordinary Present to them Mr. Robert Hall was one of the
us at last the Captain ordered the Drum to be beaten which was done of a sudden with much vigor purposely to scare the poor Creatures They hearing the noise ran away as fast as they could drive and when they ran away in haste they would cry Gurry Gurry speaking deep in the Throat Those Inhabitants also that live on the Main would always run away from us yet we took several of them For as I have already observed they had such bad Eyes that they could not see us till we came close to them We did always give them victuals and let them go again but the Islanders after our first time of being among them did not stir for us When we had been here about a week we hal'd our Ship into a small sandy Cove at a Spring-tide as far as she would sloat and at low Water she was left dry and the sand dry without us near half a mile for the Sea riseth and falleth here about 5 fathom The Flood runs North by East and the Ebb South by West All the Neep-tides we lay wholly a ground for the Sea did not come near us by about a hundred yards We had therefore time enough to clean our Ships bottom which we did very well Most of our Men lay ashore in a Tent where our Sails were mending and our Strikers brought home Turtle and Manatee every day which was our constant food While we lay here I did endeavour to perswade our men to go to some English Factory but was threatened to be turned ashore and left here for it This made me desist and patiently wait for some more convenient place and opportunity to leave them than here Which I did hope I should accomplish in a short time because they did intend when they went from hence to bear down towards Cape Comorin In their way thither they design'd also to visit the Island Cocos which lyeth in Lat. 12 d. 12 m. North by our Drafts hoping there to find of that Fruit the Island having it name from thence CHAP. XVII Leaving New-Holland they pass by the Island Cocos and touch at another Woody Island near it A Land Animal like large Craw-fish Coco-Nuts floating in the Sea The Island Triste bearing Coco's yet over-flown every Spring-tide They anchor at a small Island near that of Nassaw Hog Island and others A Proe taken belonging to Achin Nicobar Island and the rest called by that Name Ambergrease good and bad The manners of the Inhabitants of these Islands They anchor at Nicobar Isle It s Situation Soil and pleasant Mixture of its Bays Trees c. The Melory tree and Fruit used for bread The Natives of Nicobar Island their Form Habit Language Habitations no form of Religion or Government Their Food and Canoas They clean the Ship The Author projects and gets leave to stay ashore here and with him two Englishmen more the Portuguese and 4 Malayans of Achin Their first Rencounters with the Natives Of the common Traditions concerning Cannibals or Man-Eaters Their Entertainment ashore They buy a Canoa to transport them over to Achin but overset her at first going cut Having recruited and improved her they set out again for the East side of the Island They have a War with the Islanders but Peace being re-established they lay in stores and make Preparations for their Voyage MArch the 12th 1688. we sailed from New Holland with the Wind at N. N. W. and fair weather We directed our course to the Northward intending as I said to touch at the Island Cocos but we met with the Winds at N. W. W. N. W. and N N. W. for several days which obliged us to keep a more Easterly course than was convenient to find that Island We had soon after our setting out very bad weather with much Thunder and Lightning Rain and high blustring Winds It was the 26th day of March before we were in the lat of the Island Cocos which is in 12 d. 12 m. and then by judgment we were 40 or 50 leagues to the East of it and the Wind was now at S. W. Therefore we did rather chuse to bear away towards some Islands on the West side of Sumatra than to beat against the Wind for the Island Cocos I was very glad of this being in hopes to make my escape from them to Sumatra or some other place We met nothing of remark in this Voyage beside the catching two great Sharks till the 28th day Then we fell in with a small woody Island in Lat. 10 d. 30 m. Its Longitude from New Holland from whence we came was by my account 12 d. 6 m. West It was deep water about the Island and therefore no anchoring but we sent 2 Canoas ashore one of them with the Carpenters to cut a Tree to make another Pump the other Canoa went to search for fresh water and found a fine small Brook near the S. W. point of the Island but there the Sea fell in on the ashore so high that they could not get it off At noon both our Canoas returned aboard and the Carpenters brought aboard a good Tree which they afterwards made a Pump with such a one as they made at Mindanao The other Canoa brought aboard as many Boobies and Men of War Birds as sufficed all the Ships Company when they were boiled They got also a sort of Land Animal somewhat resembling a large Craw-fish without its great Claws These creatures lived in holes in the dry sandy ground like Rabbits Sir Francis Drake in his Voyage round the world makes mention of such that he found at Ternate or some other of the Spice Islands or near them They were very good sweet Meat and so large that 2 of them were more than a Man could eat being almost as thick as ones Leg. Their Shells were of a dark brown but red when boiled This Island is of a good heighth with steep Cliffs against the S. and S. W. and a sandy Bay on the North side but very deep water steep to the shore The Mold is blackish the Soil fat producing large Trees of divers sorts About one a clock in the Afternoon we made sail from this Island with the wind at S. W. and we steered N. W. Afterwards the winds came about at N. W. and continued between the W. N. W. and the N. N. W. several days I observed that the winds blew for the most part out of the West or N. W. and then we had always rainy weather with Tornadoes and much Thunder and Lightning but when the wind came any way to the Southward it blew but faint and brought fair weather We met nothing of remark till the 7th day of April and then being in Lat. 7 d. S. we saw thâ—… Land of Sumatra at a great distance bearing North. The 8th day we saw the East end of the Island Sumatra very plainly we being then in Lat. 6 d. S. The 10th day being in Lat. 5 d. 11 m. and about 7
or 8 leagues from the Island Sumatra on the West side of it we saw abundance of Coco Nuts swimming in the Sea and we hoysed out our Boat and took up some of them as also a small Hatch or Scuttle rather belonging to some Bark The Nuts were very sound and the Kernel sweet and in some the Milk or Water in them was yet sweet and good The 13th day we came to a small Island called Triste in Lat. by observation 4 d. South it is about 14 or 15 leagues to the West of the Island Sumatra From hence to the Northward there are a great many small uninhabited Islands lying much at the same distance from Sumatra This Island Triste is not a mile round and so low that the Tide flows clear over it It is of a sandy soil and full of Coco-nut Trees The Nuts are but small yet sweet enough full and more ponderous than I ever felt any of that bigness notwithstanding that every Spring-tide the Salt water goes clear over the Island We sent ashore our Canoas for Coco-nuts and they return'd aboard laden with them three times Our Strikers also went out and struck some Fish which was boiled for Supper They also killed 2 young Aligators which we salted for the next day I had no opportunity at this place to make my Escape as I would have done and gone over hence to Sumatra could I have kept a Boat with me But there was no compassing this and so the 15th day we went from hence steering to the Northward on the West side of Sumatra Our Food now was Rice and the Meat of the Coco-nuts rasped and steep'd in water which made a sort of Milk into which we did put our Rice making a pleasant Mess enough After we parted from Triste we saw other small Islands that were also full of Coco-nut Trees The 19th day being in Lat. 3 d. 25 m. S. the S. W. point of the Island Nassau bore N. about 5 mile dist This is a pretty large uninhabited Island in Lat. 3 d. 20 m. S. and is full of high Trees About a mile from the Island Nassau there is a small Island full of Coco-nut Trees There we anchored the 20th day to replenish our stock of Coco-nut Trees A 〈◊〉 riff of Rocks lies almost round this Island so that our Boats could not go ashore nor come aboard at low water yet we got aboard 4 Boat loads of Nuts This Island is low like Triste and the anchoring is on the North side where you have 14 fathom a mile from shore clean sand The 21st day we went from hence and kept to the Northward coasting still on the West side of the Island Sumatra and having the winds between the W. and S. S. W. with unsettled weather sometimes Rains and Tornadoes and sometimes fair weather The 25th day we crost the Equator still coasting to the Northward between the Island Sumatra and a range of small Islands lying 14 or 15 leagues off it Among all these Islands Hog Island is the most considerable It lies in lat 3 d. 40. m. North. It is pretty high even Land cloathed with tall flourishing Trees we past by it the 28th day The 29th we saw a sail to the North of us which we chased but it being little wind we did not come up with her till the 30th day Then being within a league of her Captain Read went in a Canoa and took her and brought her aboard She was a Proe with 4 men in her belonging to Achin whither she was bound She came from one of these Coco-nut Islands that we past by and was laden with Coco-nuts and Goco-nut Oil. Captain Read ordered his men to take aboard all the Nuts and as much of the Oyl as he thought convenient and then cut a hole in the bottom of the Proe and turned her loose keeping the men Prisoners It was not for the lucre of the Cargo that Captain Read took this Boat but to hinder me and some others from going ashore for he knew that we were ready to make our escapes if an opportunity presented it self and he thought that by his abusing and robbing the Natives we should be afraid to trust our selves among them But yet this proceeding of his turned to our great advantage as shall be declared hereafter May the 1st we ran down by the North West end of the Island Sumatra within 7 or 8 leagues of the shore All this West side of Sumatra which we thus coasted along our Englishmen at Fort St. George call the West Coast simply without adding the name of Sumatra The Prisoners who were taken the day before shewed us the Islands that lye off of Achin Harbour and the Channels through which Ships go in and told us also that there was an English Factory at Achin I wisht my self there but was forced to wait with patience till my time was come We were now directing our course towards the Nicobar Islands intending there to clean the Ship 's bottom in order to make her sail well The 4th day in the evening we had sight of one of the Nicobar Islands The Southermost of them lies about 40 leagues N. N. W. from rhe N. W. end of the Island Sumatra This most Southerly of them is Nicobar it self but all the cluster of Islands lying South of the Audeman Islands are called by our Seamen the Nicobar Islands The Inhabitants of these Islands have no certain converse with any Nation but as Ships pass by them they will come aboard in their Proes and offer their Commodities to sale never inquiring of what Nation they are for all white people are alike to them Their chiefest Commodities are Ambergrease and Fruits Ambergrease is often found by the Native Indians of these Islands who know it very well as also know how to cheat ignorant Strangers with a certain mixture like it Several of our men bought such of them for a small purchase Captain Weldon also about this time touched at some of these Islands to the North of the Island where we lay and I saw a great deal of such Ambergrease that one of his men bought there but it was not good having no smell at all Yet I saw some there very good and fragrant At that Island where Captain Weldon was there were 2 Fryers sent thither to convert the Indians One of them came away with Captain Weldon the other remained there still He that came away with Captain Weldon gave a very good character of the Inhabitants of that Island viz. that they were very honest civil harmless People that they were not addicted to Quarrelling Theft or Murder that they did marry or at least live as Man and Wife one Man with one Woman never changing till Death made the separation that they were punctual and honest in performing their Bargains and that they were inclined to receive the Christian Religion This Relation I had afterwards from the mouth of a Priest at Tonqueen who told me that he
advantage to themselves that after about 4 hours fighting they cut their Cables and went away in haste and disorder with all their Sails loose even their Top-gallant sails which is not usual but when Ships are just next to running away Captain Heath notwithstanding his Ship was so heavy and incumbred behaved himself very bravely in the fight and upon the going off of the French went aboard the Dutch Commadore and told him that if he would pursue them he would stand out with them to Sea though he had very little Water aboard but the Dutch Commander excused himself saying he had orders to defend himself from the French but none to chase them or go out of his way to seek them And this was the exploit which the French have thought fit to brag of I hear that the Dutch have taken from them since their Fort of Ponticheri But to proceed with our Voyage We had not been at Sea long before our men began to droop in a sort of a distemper that stole insensibly on them and proved fatal to above 30 who died before we arrived at the Cape We had sometimes two and once three men thrown over board in a morning This distemper might probably arise from the badness of the Water which we took in at Bencouli for I did observe while I was there that the River-water wherewith our Ships were watered a ws very unwholesom it being mixt with the Water of many small Creeks that proceeded from low Land and whose streams were always very black they being nourished by the Water that drained out of the low swampy unwholesom ground I have observed not only there but in other hot Countries also both in the East and West Indies that the Land-floods which pour into the Channels of the Rivers about the season of the Rains are very unwholesom For when I lived in the Bay of Campeachy the Fish were found dead in heaps on the shores of the Rivers and Creeks at such a season and many we took up half dead of which sudden mortality there appeared no cause but only the malignity of the Waters draining off the Land This happens chiefly as I take it where the water drains through thick Woods and Savannahs of long Grass and swampy Grounds with which some hot Countries abound and I believe it receives a strong Tincture from the Roots of several kind of Trees Herbs c. and especially where there is any stagnancy of the Water it soon corrupts and possibly the Serpents and other poisonous Vermin and Infects may not a little contribure to its bad qualities at such times it will look very deep coloured yellow red or black c. The season of the Rains was over and the Land floods were abating upon the taking up this Water in the River of Bencouli but would the Seamen have given themselves the trouble they might have fill'd their Vessels with excellent good Water at a Spring on the back side of the Fort not above 2 or 300 paces from the Landing place and with which the Fort it serv'd And I mention this as a caution to any Ships that shall go to Bencouli for the future and withal I think it worth the care of the Owners or Governours of the Factory and that it would tend much to the preservation of their Seamens lives to lay Pipes to convey the Fountain Water to the shore which might easily be done with a small charge and had I staid longer there I would have undertaken it I had a design also of bringing it into the Fort though much higher for it would be a great convenience and security to it in case of a Siege Beside the badness of our Water it was stowed among the Pepper in the Hold which made it very hot Every morning when we came to take our allowance it was so hot that a man could hardly suffer his hands in it or hold a bottle full of it in his hand I never any where felt the like nor could have thought it possible that Water should heat to that degree in a Ships Hold. It was exceeding black too and looked more like Ink than Water Whether it grew so black with standing or was tinged with the Pepper I know not for this Water was not so black when it was first taken up Our food also was very bad for the Ship had been out of England upon this Voyage above three years and the salt Provision brought from thence and which we fed on having been so long in salt was but ordinary food for sickly men to live on Captain Heath when he saw the misery of his Company ordered his own Tamarinds of which he had some Jars aboard to be given some to each mess to eat with their Rice This was a great refreshment to the men and I do believe it contributed much to keep us on our legs This distemper was so universal that I do believe there was scarce a man in the Ship but languished under it yet it stole so insensibly on us that we could not say we were sick feeling little or no pain only a weakness and but little stomach Nay most of those that died in this Voyage would hardly be perswaded to keep their Cabbins or Hammacks till they could not stir about and when they were forced to lye down they made their Wills and piked off in 2 or 3 days The loss of these men and the weak languishing condition that the rest of us were in rendered us uncapable to govern our Ship when the wind blew more than ordinary This often happened when we drew near the Cape and as oft put us to our trumps to manage the Ship Captain Heath to incourage his men to their labour kept his watch as constantly as any man tho sickly himself and lent an helping hand on all occasions But at last almost despairing of gaining his passage to the Cape by reason of the Winds coming Southerly and we having now been sailing 8 or 9 weeks he called all our men to consult about our safety and desired every man from the highest to the lowest freely to give his real opinion and advice what to do in this dangerous juncture for we were not in a condition to keep out long and could we not get to Land quickly must have perished at Sea He consulted therefore whether it were best to beat still for the Cape or bear away for Johanna where we might expect relief that being a place where our outward bound East India Ships usually touch and whose Natives are very familiar but other places especially St. Laurence or Madagascar which was nearer was unknown to us We were now so nigh the Cape that with a fair Wind we might expect to be there in 4 or 5 days but as the Wind was now we could not hope to get thither On the other side this Wind was fair to carry us to Johanna but then Johanna was a great way off and if the Wind should continue as
are Markets duly kept all over Tonquin one in a week in a neighbourhood of 4 or 5 Villages and held at each of them successively in its order so that the same Village has not the Market return'd to it till 4 or 5 weeks after These Markets are abundantly more stor'd with Rice as being their chief subsistence especially of the poorer sort than either with Flesh or Fish yet wants there not for Pork and young Pigs good store Ducks and Hens plenty of Eggs Fish great and small fresh and salted Balachaun and Nuke-Mum with all sorts of Roots Herbs and Fruits even in these Country Markets But at Cachao where there are markets kept every day they have besides these Beef of Bullocks Buffaloes Flesh Goats Flesh Horse Flesh Cats and Dogs as I have been told and Locusts They dress their food very cleanly and make it savory for which they have several ways unknown in Europe but they have many sorts of dishes that wou'd turn the Stomach of a stranger which yet they themselves like very well as particularly a dish of raw Pork which is very cheap and common This is only Pork cut and minced very small fat and lean together which being afterwards made up in balls on rolls like Sausages and prest very hard together is then neatly wrapt up in clean leaves and without more ado served up to the Table Raw Beef is another dish much esteemed at Cachao When they kill a Bullock they singe the hair off with Fire as we singe Bacon Hogs in England Then they open it and while the Flesh is yet hot they cut good Collops from off the lean parts and put them into very tart Vinegar where it remains 3 or 4 hours or longer till it is sufficiently soaked and then without more trouble they take it out and eat it with great delight As for Horseflesh I know not whether they kill any purposely for the Shambles or whether they only do it when they are not likely to live as I have seen them do their working Bullocks at Galicia in Old Spain where the Cattel falling down with labour and being so poor and tired that they cannot rise they are slaughtered and sent to market and I think I never eat worse Beef than at the Groin The Horseflesh comes to Market at Cachao very frequently and is as much esteemed as Beef Elephants they eat also and the Trunk of this Beast is an acceptable present for a Nobleman and that too tho the beast dyes with Age or Sickness For here are but few wild Elephants and those so shy that they are not easily taken But the King having a great number of tame Elephants when one of these dyes 't is given to the poor who presently fetch away the Flesh but the Trunk is cut in pieces and presented to the Mandarins Dogs and Cats are killed purposely for the Shambles and their Flesh is much esteemed by people of the best fashion as I have been credibly informed Great yellow Frogs also are much admired especially when they come fresh out of the Pond They have many other such choice dishes and in all the Villages at any time of the day and be it market day or not there are several to be sold by poor people who make it their Trade The most common sorts of Cookeries next to boil'd Rice is to dress little bits of Pork spitted 5 or 6 of them at once on a small skiver and roasted In the Markets also and daily in every Village there are Women sitting in the Streets with a Pipkin over a small Fire full of Chau as they call it a sort of very ordinary Tea of a reddish brown colour and 't is their ordinary drink The Kingdom of Tonquin is in general healthy enough especially in the dry season when also it is very delightsom For the seasons of the year at Tonquin and all the Countries between the Tropicks are distinguished into Wet and Dry as properly as others are into Winter and Summer But as the alteration from Winter to Summer and vice versa is not made of a sudden but with the interchangeable Weather of Spring and Autumn so also toward the end of the dry season there are some gentle showers now and then that precede the violent wet months and again toward the end of these several fair days that introduce the dry time These seasons are generally much alike at the same time of the year in all places of the Torrid Zone on the same side of the Equator but for 2 or 3 degrees on each side of it the weather is more mixt and uncertain tho inclining to the wet extreme and is often contrary to that which is then settled on the same side of the Equator more toward the Tropick So that even when the wet Season is set in in the Northern parts of the Torrid Zone it may yet be dry weather for 2 or 3. degrees North of the Line and the same may be said of the contrary Latitudes and Seasons This I speak with respect to the driness or moisture of Countries in the Torrid Zone but it may also hold good of their Heat or Cold generally for as to all these qualities there is a further difference arises from the make or situation of the Land or other accidental causes besides what depends on the respective latitude or regard to the Sun Thus the Bay of Compeachy in the West Indies and that of Bengal in the East in much the same latitude are exceeding hot and moist and whether their situation being very low Countries and the scarcity and faintness of the Sea-breezes as in most Bays may not contribute hereunto I leave others to judge Yet even as to the Latitudes of these places lying near the Tropicks they are generally upon that account alone more inclined to great Heats than places near the Equator This is what I have experienc'd in many places in such Latitudes both in the East and West Indies that the hottest parts of the World are these near the Tropicks especially 3 or 4 Degrees within them sensibly hotter than under the Line itself Many reasons may be assign'd for this beside the accidental ones from the make of the particular Countries Tropical Winds or the like For the longest day at the Equator never exceeds 12 hours and the night is always of the same length But near the Tropicks the longest day is about 13 hours and an half and an hour and an half being also taken from the night what with the length of the day and the shortness of the night there is a difference of three hours which is very cousiderable Besides which at such places as are about 3 degrees within the Tropicks or in the Lat. of 20 Deg. N. the Sun comes within 2 or 3 degrees of the Zenith in the beginning of May and having past the Zenith goes not above 2 or 3 degrees beyond it before it returns and passeth the Zenith once more and by
Then we weighed again having a small land Wind but the Tyde of flood was against us and drove us to the Eastward When the Ebb came we jogged on and got about 3 leagues anchoring when the Flood came because the Winds were against us Thus we continued plying with the Ebb and anchoring every flood till we came to Pulo Parsalore where the Captain told me he would not go out the same way we came in as I would have perswaded him but kept the Malacca Shore aboard and past within the Sholes But in a few Hours after we ran upon a Shole driven on it by the Tide of Flood which here set to the Eastward tho by our Reckoning it should have been half Ebb and the Flood should have set Westward as we had it all the rest of the way from Malacca but the Sholes probably caused some whirling about of the Tide However the Sand we were struck upon was not above an 100 yards in circumference and the flood being rising we waited the time of high water and then drove over it having sent our Boat to discover how the Sholes lay while our Ship was aground Mr Richards all the while being in great fear lest the Malayans should come off in their Boats and attack the Vessel We were now afloat again and soon got without all the Sholes yet we did not stand over towards Sumatra but coasted along nearest the Malacca shore it being now most proper for us so to do yet for having the winds Westerly we could not have beat under the other shore 2 or 3 days after this we had sight of some Islands called Pulo Sambilong which in the Malayan Language signifies nine Islands there being so many of them lying scattering at unequal distances from each other It was near one of these Islands that Captain Minchin in a former Voyage was like to lose his hand by a prick with a Cat fishes Fin as I have said in my former Vol. p. 149. and tho his hand was cured yet he has lost the use of it ever since and is never likely to regain it more We stood in pretty near the shore in hopes to gain a fresh Land Wind. About 10 a Clock the Land Wind came off a gentle breez and we coasted along shore But a small Tornado coming off from the shore about midnight we broke our Mizen yard and being near a Dutch Island called Pulo Dinding we made in for it and anchored there the night ensuing and found there a Dutch Sloop mann'd with about 30 Soldiers at an anchor This is a small Island lying so nigh the main that Ships passing by cannot know it to be an Island It is pretty high Land and well watered with Brooks The mold is blackish deep and fat in the lower ground but the Hills are somewhat Rocky yet in general very woody The Trees are of divers sorts many of which are good Timber and large enough for any use Here are also some good for Masts and Yards they being naturally light yet tough and serviceable There s good riding on the East side between the Island and the Main You may come in with the Sea breeze and go out with a Land wind there is water enough and a secure Harbour The Dutch who are the only Inhabitants have a Fort on the East side close by the Sea in a bending of the Island which makes a small Cove for Ships to anchor in The Fort is built 4 square without Flankers or Bastions like a house every square is about 10 or 12 yards The Walls are of a good thickness made of stone and carried up to a good heighth of about 30 foot and covered over head like a dwelling House There may be about 12 or 14 Gnns in it some looking out at every square These Guns are mounted on a strong Platform made within the Walls about 16 Foot high and there are steps on the outside to ascend to the Door that opens to the Platform there being no other way into the Fort. Here is a Governour and about 20 or 30 Souldiers who all lodge in the Fort. The Soldiers have their lodging in the Platform among the Guns but the Governour has a fair Chamber above it where he lies with some of the Officers About a hundred yards from the Fort on the Bay by the Sea there is a low timbered House where the Governour abides all the day time In this House there were two or three Rooms for their use but the chiefest was the Governours Dining Room This fronted to the Sea and the end of it looked towards the Fort. There were two large Windows of about 7 or 8 foot square the lower part of them about 4 or 5 foot from the ground These Windows were wont to be left open all the day to let in the refreshing breeze but in the night when the Governour withdrew to the Fort they were closed with strong shutters and the Doors made fast till the next day The Continent of Malacca opposite to the Island is pretty low champion Land cloathed with lofty Woods and right against the Bay where the Dutch Fort stands there is a navigable River for small craft The product of the Country thereabouts besides Rice and other eatables is Tutaneg a sort of Tin I think courser than ours The Natives are Malayans who as I have always observed are bold and treacherous yet the trading people are affable and courteous to Merchants These are in all respects as to their Religion Custom and manner of Living like other Malayans Whether they are governed by a King or Raja or what other manner of Government they live under I know not They have Canoas and Boats of their own and with these they fish and traffick among themselves but the Tin Trade is that which has formerly drawn Merchant Strangers thither But tho the Country might probably yield great quantities of this metal and the Natives are not only inclinable but very desirous to trade with Strangers yet are they now restrained by the Dutch who have monopoliz'd that Trade to themselves It was probably for the lucre of this Trade that the Dutch built the Fort on the Island but this not wholly answering their ends by reason of the distance between it and the Rivers mouth which is about 4 or 5 miles they have also a Guardship commonly lying here and a Sloop with 20 or 30 armed men to hinder other Nations from this Trade For this Tutaneg or Tin is a valuable Commodity in the Bay of Bengal and here purchased reasonably by giving other Commodities in exchange neither is this Commodity peculiarly found hereabouts but farther Northerly also on the Coast and particularly in the Kingdom of Queda there is much of it The Dutch also commonly keep a Guardship and have made some fruitless essays to bring that Prince and his Subjects to trade only with them but here over against P. Dinding no strangers dare approach to trade neither may any Ship
Yams Potatoes c. to carry aboard with us on which we fed commonly all our Voyage But after six or seven Months I left that employ also and shipt my self aboard one Capt. Hudsel who was bound to the Bay of Campeachy to load Logwood We sailed from Port-Royal about the beginning of August in 1675. in Company with Capt. Wren in a small Jamaica Bark and Capt. Johnson Commander of a Ketch belonging to New-England This Voyage is all the way before the Wind and therefore Ships commonly sail it in 12 or 14 Days Neither were we longer in our Passage for we had very fair Weather and touch'd no where till we came to Trist Island in the Bay of Campeachy which is the only place they go to In our way thither we first sailed by little Caimanes leaving it on our Larboard side and Key Monbrack which are two small Islands lying South of Cuba The next Land we saw was the Isle of Pines and steering still Westerly we made Cape Corienes And sailing on the South side of Cuba till we came to Cape Antonio which is the West end of it we stretched over towards the Peninsula of Jucatan and fell in with Cape Catoch which is in the Extream part of that Promontory towards the East The Land trends from this Cape one way South about 40 Leagues till you come to the Island Cozumel and from thence it runs S. W. down into the Bay of Honduras About 10 Leagues from Cape Catoch between it and Cozumel lies a small Island called by the Spaniards Key-Muger or Womens-Island because 't is reported that when they went first to settle in these parts they left their Wives there while they went over on the main to find some better Habitation Tho' now they have no settlement near it whatever they have had formerly About 3 Leagues from Cape Catoch and just against it is a small Island called Loggerhead-Key probably because it is frequently visited by a sort of Turtle so called near this Island we always find a great ripling which Seamen call the Rip-raps This Cape tho' it appears to be part of the Main yet is divided from it by a small Creek scarce wide enough for a Canoa to pass through though by it 't is made an Island This I have been credibly informed of by some who yet told me that they made a shift to pass it in a Canoa The Cape is very low Land by the Sea but somewhat higher as you go further from the shore It is all over-grown with Trees of divers sorts especially Logwood and therefore was formerly much frequented by the Jamaica Men who came thither in Sloops to load with it till all the Logwoodtrees near the Sea were cut down but now 't is wholly abandoned because the Carriage of it to the shore requires more labour than the cutting logging and chipping Besides they find better Wood now in the Bays of Campeachy and Honduras and have but little way to carry it not above 300 Paces when I was there whereas at Cape Catoch they were forc'd to carry it 1500 Paces before they left that Place From Cape Catoch we coasted along by the shore on the North side of Jucatan towards Cape Condecedo The Coast lies nearest West The distance between these two Capes is about 80 Leagues The shore lies pretty level without any visible Points or Bendings in the Land It is woody by the shore and full of sandy Bays and lofty Mangroves The first place of Note to the West of Cape Catoch is a small Hill by the Sea call'd the Mount and is distant from it about 14 Leagues It is very remarkable because there is no other High-Land on all this Coast. I was never ashore here but have met with some well acquainted with the Place who are all of opinion that this Mount was not natural but the Work of Men And indeed it is very probable this Place has been inhabited for here are a great many large Cisterns supposed to have been made for the receiving of Rain-water for there are no fresh Springs to be found here the Soil being all sandy and very salt So that as I have been credibly informed by an intelligent Person the Spaniards do fetch of it to make Salt-Petre He also told me that being once there in a Privateer and landing some Men on the Bay they found about 100 Packs of this Earth bound up in Palmeto-leaves and a Spanish Mulatto to guard it The Privateers at first sight of the Packs were in hopes there had been Maiz or Indian Corn in them which they then wanted but opening them they found nothing but Earth and examining the Mulatto for what use it was he said to make Powder and that he expected a Bark from Campeachy to fetch it away He further told me that tasting of it he found it very salt as all the Earth thereabouts was So that 't is not improbable that those Cisterns were made for the carrying on a Salt-Petre-Work But whatever was the design at first it is now wholly laid aside for there is no use made of them neither are there any Inhabitants near this Place Between the Mount and Cape Condecedo close by the Sea are many little Spots of Mangrove-trees which at a distance appear-like Islands but coming nearer when other lower Trees appear it shews like ragged and broken Ground but at last all the Land presents it self to your view very even The next Place of Note on this Coast is Rio de la Gartos almost in the Mid-way between Cape Catoch and Cape Condecedo This also is a very remarkable Place for here are 2 Groves of High Magnroves one on each side the River by which it may be known very well The River is but small yet deep enough for Canoas The Water is good and I know not any other Brook or fresh River on all the Coast from Cape Catoch till within 3 or 4 Leagues of Campeachy Town A little to the East of this River is a Fish-Range and a small Indian Hutt or two within the Woods where the Indian Fishers who are subject to the Spaniards lye in the Fishing-Seasons their Habitations and Familes being farther up in the Country Here are Poles to hang their Nets on and Barbecues to dry their Fish When they go off to Sea they fish with Hook and Line about 4 or 5 Leagues from the shore for Snappers and Gropers which I have already described in my Voyage round the VVorld Chap. 4. Pag. 91. Since the Privateers and Logwood-ships have sailed this way these Fisher-men are very shy having been often snap'd by them So that now when they are out at Sea if they see a Sail they presently sink their Canoas even with the edge of the Water for the Canoas when they are full of Water will sink no lower and they themselves lye just with their heads above Water till the Ship which they saw is pass'd by or comes Night I have seen them under
for by all likelihood we were not so far from the Island but that we might have seen it had it been clear and that the hanging of the Clouds seemed to indicate to us that the Land was obscured by them Some of them did acquiesce with me in my Opinion however 't was agreed to put away for the South Keys and accordingly we veered out our Sheets trimm'd our Sails and steered away N. N. W. I was so much dis-satisfied that I turned into my Cabbin and told them we should be all starved I could not sleep tho' I lay down for I was very much troubled to think of Fasting 3 or 4 Days or a Week having fared very hard already Indeed 't was by meer accident that our Food lasted so long for we carried two Barrels of Beef out with us to sell but 't was so bad that none would buy it which proved well for us for after our own Stock was spent this supplied us We boyled every day two Pieces of it and because our Pease were all eaten and our Flower almost spent we cut our Beef in small bits after 't was boiled and boiled it again in Water thickned with a little Flower and so eat it all together with Spoons The little Pieces of Beef were like Plums in our Hodg-podg Indeed 't was not fit to be eaten any other way for tho' it did not stink yet it was very unsavory and black without the least sign of Fat in it Bread and Flower being scarce with us we could not make Dough-boys to eat with it But to proceed I had not layn in my Cabbin above three Glasses before one on the Deck cryed out Land Land I was very glad at the News and we all immediately discerned it very plain The first that we saw was High-land which we knew to be Blewfields-Hill by a Bending or Saddle on the Top with two small Heads on each Side It bore N. E. by E. and we had the Wind at E. therefore we presently clap'd on a Wind and steered in N. N. E. and soon after we saw all the Coast being not above five or six Leagues from it We kept jogging in all the Afternoon not striving to get in to any particular place but where we could fetch there we were resolved to Anchor The next day being pretty near the shore between Blewfields-Point and Point Nigril and having the Wind large enough to fetch the latter we steered away directly thither and seeing a small Vessel about two Leagues N. W. of us making signs to speak with us by hoysing and lowring her Topsails we were afraid of her and edged in nearer the shore and about three a Clock in the Afternoon to our great joy we anchored at Nigrill having been 13 Weeks on our Passage I think never any Vessel before nor since made such Traverses in coming out of the Bay as we did having first blundred over the Alcrany Riff and then visited those Islands from thence fell in among the Colorado Shoals afterward made a trip to Grand Caymanes and lastly visited Pines tho' to no purpose In all these Rambles we got as much experience as if we had been sent out on a design As soon as we came to Anchor we sent our Boat ashore to buy Provisions to regale our selves after our long fatigue and fasting and were very busie going to drink a Bowl of Punch when unexpectedly Capt. Rawlins Commander of a small New-England Vessel that we left at Trist and one Mr. John Hooker who had been in the Bay a twelve Month cutting Logwood and was now coming up to Jamaica to sell it came aboard and were invited into the Cabbin to drink with us the Bowl had not yet been touch'd I think there might be six Quarts in it but Mr. Hooker being drunk to by Captain Rawlins who pledg'd Capt. Hudswell and having the Bowl in his hand said That he was under an Oath to drink but three Draughts of strong Liquor a Day and putting the Bowl to his Head turn'd it off at one Draught and so making himself drunk disappointed us of our Expectations till we made another Bowl The next day having a brisk N. W. Wind which was a kind of a Chocolatta North we arrived at Port-Royal and so ended this troublesom Voyage CHAP. II. The Author's second Voyage to the Bay of Campeachy His arrival at the Isle of Trist and setling with the Logwood-Cutters A Description of the Coast from Cape Condecedo to Trist. Salinas or Salt Ponds Salt gathered for the Spaniards by the Indians Hina a remarkable Hill Horse-hoof-fish The Triangle Islands Campeachy Town twice taken It s chief Trade Cotton Champeton River and its Logwood a rich Commodity Port-Royal Harbour and Island Prickly-Grass Sapadillo Trees Trist Island described Coco-Plum-bushes The Grape-Tree Its Animals Lizards Laguna Termina and its strong Tides Summasenta River and Chucquebull Town Serles his Key Captain Serles his Adventure The East and West Lagunes with their Branches inhabited by Logwood-Cutters Oaks growing there and no where else within the Tropicks The Original of the Logwood-Trade The Rainy Season and great Floods occasioned by Norths The dry Season Wild Pine-Plant The Logwood-Tree Blood-Wood Stock Fish-Wood and Camwood A Description of some Animals Squashes large long-tail'd Monkies Ant-bears Sloths Armadillos Tigre Catts Snakes of three sorts Calliwasps Huge Spiders Great Ants and their Nests Rambling Ants Humming Birds Black-Birds Turtle Doves Quams Corresos Carrion Crows Subtle Jacks Bill-Birds Cockrecos Ducks of several sorts Curlews Herons Crabcatchers Pelicans Cormorants Fishing Hawks Several sorts of Fish Tenpounders Parricootas Garr-Fish Spanish Mackril The Ray Alligators Crocodiles how they differ from Alligators A narrow escape of an Irish-man from an Alligator IT was not long after our Arrival at Port-Royal before we were pay'd off and discharged Now Captain Johnson of New-England being bound again into the Bay of Campeachy I took the opportunity of going a Passenger with him being resolved to spend some time at the Logwood-Trade and accordingly provided such Necessaries as were required about it viz. Hatchets Axes Macheats i. e. Long Knives Saws Wedges c. a Pavillion to sleep in a Gun with Powder and shot c. and leaving a Letter of Attorney with Mr. Fleming a Merchant of Port-Royal as well to dispose of any thing that I should send up to him as to remit to me what I should order I took leave of my Friends and Imbarked About the middle of Feb. 75 6. We sailed from Jamaica and with a fair Wind and Weather soon got as far as Cape Catoch and there met a pretty strong North which lasted two days After that the Trade settled again at E. N. E. which speedily carryed us to Trist Island In a little time I setled my self in the West Creek of the West Lagune with some old Logwood-Cutters to follow the Employment with them But I shall proceed no farther with the Relation of my own Affairs till I have given a description of the
my Course for Jamaica and found the N. E. Corner to lye in Lat. 18 d. North and in Longi West from Tobago 13 d. The Meridian distance from Tobago is 749 Miles VVest In our passage we saw no Land or Island till we made the N. E. end of Jamaica which lyeth in Longi VVest from the Meridian of Lundy 64 d. 10 m. and VVest from the City of Loango 82 d. 18 m. I shall only add that I am of Opinion that the Gallopagos Islands do lye a great deal further to the VVestward than our Hydrographers do place them according as Mr. Dampier hints p. 100 of his Voyage round the World I am Portbury Octob. 20. 1698. SIR Your most humble Servant John Covant Part of a second Letter from Captain Covant dated from Bristol Decemb. 10. 1697. LETTER II. SIR YOurs of the 6th Instant came to my Hands with the enclosed Queries which I shall endeavour to answer in part as far as my memory will assist me being now from home and at a distance from my Journals c. 1. The Common Trade-Winds on the Coast of Angola blow from the S. VV. to South till about 12 d. Long. from the Meridian of the Isle of Lundy 2. I have found them always in the same Quarter and not subject to shift in all the time I have used this Coast except that at a small distance off the shore they are sometimes a Point more to the VVestward 3. The Dry Season on this Coast I observed to be from the latter end of April to September tho' sometimes intermix'd with some pleasant showers of Rain I cannot be so punctual as to the time of the Wet Seasons 4. The true Sea-Breez I have commonly found here to be from W. S. W. to VV. by S. if it be fair Weather and the Land Breez is at E. by N. But if a Tornado happens it causes the Winds to shift all round the Compass and at last it settles at S. VV. which is the former true Trade Wind. I am yours John Covant CHAP. VI. Of Storms Storms less frequent but more fierce between the Tropicks Presages of their coming Of Norths the Times and Places where they blow Signs of their approach N. Banks A Chocolatta North. A North beneficial to Ships going from Campeachy to Jamaica A very uncommon way of wearing a Ship in a North. Of Souths the Times and Places where they Blow A Description of a South at Jamaica and at the Bay of Campeachy Much Fish kill'd by that Storm Of Hurricanes A Description of a terrible one at Antegoe where abundance of Fish and Sea Fowles were destroyed by it The difference between North Banks and the Clouds before an Hurricane the latter adorned with radiant Colours Tuffoons in the East-Indies the same with Hurricanes in the West Of Monsoons in the East-Indies A Storm called by the Portuguese the Elephanta which is the violentest Monsoon of that Season STorms within the Tropicks are generally known to us by some Name or other to distinguish them from other common Winds and though Storms are not so frequent there as they are in Latitudes nearer the Poles yet are they nevertheless expected yearly in their proper Months and when they do come they blow exceeding fierce though indeed some years they do not come at all or at least do not blow with that fierceness as at other times And as these Winds are commonly very fierce so are they but of a short continuance in comparison with Storms that we meet with in higher Latitudes In the West Indies there are three sorts viz. Norths Souths and Hurricanes In the East-Indies there are only two sorts viz. Monsoones and Tuffoones All these sorts of violent Storms except the Norths are expected near one time of the year and this is taken notice of by those that have been in any of them that they give certain Presages of their being at hand several hours before they come Norths are violent Winds that frequently blow in the Bay of Mexico from October till March They are chiefly expected near the full or change of the Moon all that time of the year but they are most violent in December and January These Winds are not confined to the Bay of Mexico only but there they are most frequent and rage with the greatest Violence They blow on the North side of Cuba very fierce too and in the Gulph of Florida as also about Hispaniola Jamaica c. and in the Channel between Jamaica and Portabel and in all the West Indian Sea between the Islands and the Main as high as the Island Trinidado But from Jamaica Eastward except on the North side of the Island Hispaniola they blow no harder than a pretty brisk Sea Wind. They are here at W. N. W. or N. W. though in the Bay of Mexico they blow strongest at N. N. W. and this is the Season of Westerly Winds in these East parts of the West-Indies as I have before noted in the third Chapter of this Discourse I shall be most particular of them that blow in the Bay of Mexico and what Signs they give us before hand Commonly before a North the Weather is vety serene and fair the Sky clear and but little Wind and that too veering from its proper Point or the common Trade Wind of the Coast and breathing gently at S. at S. W. and West a Day or two before the North comes The Sea also gives notice of a Storm by an extraordinary and long Ebb. For a Day or two before a North there will be hardly any discernable Flood but a constant ebbing of the Sea And the Sea Fowls also before a Storm do commonly hover over the Land which they do not at other times use to do in such great flights and numbers All these Signs concurring may give any Man notice of an approaching Storm but the greatest and most remarkable Sign of a North is a very black Cloud in the N. W. rising above the Horizon to about 10 or 12 degrees the upper edge of the Cloud appears very even and smooth and when once the upper part of the Cloud is 6 8 10 or 12 degrees high there it remains in that even form parallel to the Horizon without any motion and this sometimes 2 or 3 Days before the Storm comes At other times not above 12 or 14 hours but never less This Cloud lying so near the Horizon is not seen but in the Mornings or Evenings at least it does not appear so black as then this is called by English Seamen a North Bank and when ever we see such a Cloud in that part of the World and in the Months before mentioned we certainly provide for a Storm and though sometimes it may happen that such a Cloud may appear several Mornings and Evenings and we may not feel the effects of it or but very little yet we always provide against it for a North never comes without such a foreboding Cloud But if the VVinds
also whiffle about to the South with fair flattering VVeather it never fails VVhile the VVind remains at S. S. W. or any thing to the South of the West it blows very faint but when once it comes to the North of the West it begins to be brisk and veers about presently to the North West where it blows hard yet does it not stay there long before it veers to the N. N. W. and there it blows strongest and longest Sometimes it continues 24 or even 48 hours and sometimes longer When the Wind first comes to the N. W. if the black Cloud rises and comes away it may chance to give but one flurry like that of a Tornado and then the Sky grows clear again and either the Wind continues at N. W. blowing only a brisk Gale which the Jamaica Seamen call a Chocolate North or else it veers about again to the East and settles there But if when the Wind comes to the N. W. the Cloud still remains settled the Wind then continues blowing very fierce even so long as the black Bank continues near the Horizon It is commonly pretty dry and clear but sometimes much Rain falls with a North and tho' the Clouds which bring Rain come from the N. W. N. N. W. yet the black Bank near the Horizon seems not to move till the Heart of the Storm is broke When the Wind starts from the N. N. VV. to the N. 't is a sign that the violence of the Storm is past especially if it veers to the East of the North for then it soon flys about to the East and there settles at its usual Point and brings fair VVeather But if it goes back from the N. to the N. VV. it will last a day or two longer as fierce as before and not without a great deal of Rain VVhen our Jamaica Logwood-ships are coming loaden out of the Bay of Campeachy in the North Season they are glad to have a North. For a good North will bring them almost to Jamaica neither have any of our Vessels miscarried in one of these Storms that I did ever hear of though sometimes much shattered but the Spaniards do commonly suffer by them and there is seldom a Year but one or more of them are cast away in the Bay of Campeachy in this Season for they don't work their ships as we do ours They always bring their ships too under a Foresail and Mizan but never under a Mainsail and Mizan nor yet under the Mizan alone but we generally bring to under Mainsail and Mizan and if the VVind grows too fierce we bring her under a Mizan only and if we cannot maintain that then we balast our Mizan which is by riffing and taking up great part of the Sail. If after all this the VVinds and Seas are too high for us then we put before it but not before we have tryed our utmost especially if we are near a Lee-shore On the contrary the Spaniards in the West Indies as I said before lye under a Foresail and Mizan But this must needs be an extraordinary strain to a Ship especially if she be long Indeed there is this convenience in it when they are minded to put away before it 't is but halling up the Mizan and the Foresail veers the Ship presently and I judge it is for that Reason they do it For when the Wind comes on so fierce that they can no longer keep on a Wind they put right afore it and so continue till the Storm ceaseth or the Land takes them up i. e. till they are run ashore I knew two Spaniards did so while I was in the Bay One was a Kings ship called the Piscadore She run ashore on a sandy Bay a Mile to the Westward of the River Tobasco The other was come within 4 or 5 Leagues of the shore and the storm ceasing she escaped shipwreck but was taken by Captain Hewet Commander of a Privateer who was then in the Bay Her Mainmast and Mizan were cut down in the storm Both these Ships came from La Vera Cruz and were in the North side of the Bay when first the storms took them And tho' we don't use this method yet we find means to wear our ships as well as they for if after the Mizan is hall'd up and furled if then the ship will not wear we must do it with some Headsail which yet sometimes puts us to our shifts As I was once in a very violent storm sailing from Virginia mentioned in my Voyage round the World we scudded before the Wind and Sea some time with only our bare Poles and the ship by the mistake of him that con'd broched too and lay in the Trough of the Sea which then went so high that every Wave threatned to overwhelm us And indeed if any one of them had broke in upon our Deck it might have foundred us The Master whose fault this was rav'd like a mad Man called for an Axe to cut the Mizan Shrouds turn the Mizan Mast over Board which indeed might have been an Expedient to bring her to her course again Cap. Davis was then Quarter-master and a more experienced Seaman than the Master He bid him hold his hand a little in hoes to bring her some other way to her course The Captain also was of his Mind Now our Main-yard and Fore-yard were lowered down a Port last as we call it that is down pretty nigh the Deck and the Wind blew so fierce that we did not dare to loose any Head-sail for they must have blown away if we had neither could all the Men in the ship have furled them again therefore we had no hopes of doing it that way I was at this time on the Deck with some others of our Men and among the rest one Mr. John Smallbone who was the main Instrument at that time of saving us all Come said he to me let us go a little way up the Fore-shrouds it may be that may make the Ship wear for I have been doing it before now He never tarried for an Answer but run forward presently and I followed him We went up the Shrouds Half-mast up and there we spread abroad the Flaps of our Coasts and presently the Ship wore I think we did not stay there above 3 Minutes before we grain'd our Point and came down gain but in this time the Wind was got into our Mainsail and had blown it loose and tho' the Main-yard was down a Port-last and our Men were got on the Yard as many as could lye one by another besides the Deck full of Men and all striving to furl that Sail yet could we not do it but were forced to cut it all along by the Head-rope and so let it fall down on the Deck Having largely treated of Norths I shall next give some account of Souths South Winds are also very violent Winds I have not heard any thing of these sorts of Storms but at Jamaica or by
Jamaica Sailers The time when they blow at Jamaica is about June July or August Months that Norths never blow in The greatest stress of Wind in these storms is at South from whence its probable they are named Souths In what they differ from the Hurricanes that rage among the Carribee Islands I know not unless in this that they are more Constant to one Point of the Compass or that they come sooner in the Year than Hurricanes do but those Storms call'd Hurricanes had never been known at Jamaica when I was there Yet since I have heard that they have felt the fury of them several times But I was at Jamaica when there happened a violent South It made great havock in the Woods and blew down many great Trees but there was no great damage done by it Port Royal was in great danger then of being washed away for the Sea made a breach clear through the Town and if the violence of the Weather had continued but a few hours longer many of the Houses had been washed away For the Point of Land on which that Town stands is Sand which began to wash away apace but the Storm ceasing there was no further damage This was in July or August in the Year 1674. I was afterwards in the Bay of Campeachy when we had a much more violent Storm than this called also by the Logwood-Cutters a South It happened some time in June 1676. I was then cutting Logwood in the Western Creek of the West Lagune Two days before this storm began the Wind whiffled about to the South and back again to the East and blew very faintly The Weather also was very fair and the Men-of-War-Birds came hovering over the Land in great numbers which is very unusual for them to do This made some of our Logwood-Cutters say that we should have some Ships come hither in a short time for they believed it was a certain token of the arrival of Ships when these Birds came thus hovering over the Land And some of them said they had lived at Barbadoes where it was generally taken notice of and that as many of these Birds as they saw hovering over the Town so many ships there were coming thither And according to that Rule they foolishly guest that here were a great many Ships coming hither at that time Though 't is impossible that they could imagine there could be the hundredth part of the Ships arrive that they saw Birds fly over their Heads But that which I did most admire was to see the Water keep ebbing for two Days together without any flood till the Creek where we lived was almost dry There was commonly at low Water 7 or 8 foot Water but now not above 3 even in the middle of the Creek About 4 a Clock the 2d day after this unusual Ebb the Sky looked very black the Wind sprung up fresh at S. E. and increasing In less than 2 hours time it blew down all our Huts but one and that with much labour we propt up with Posts and with Ropes cast over the Ridge and fastning both ends to stumps of Trees we secured the Roof from flying away In it we huddled altogether till the storm ceased It rained very hard the greatest part of the storm and about two hours after the Wind first sprang up the Waters flowed very fast in The next Morning it was as high as the Banks of the Creek which was higher than I had ever seen it before The Flood still inereased and run faster up the Creek than ever I saw it do in the greatest Spring-Tide which was somewhat strange because the Wind was at South which is right off the shore on this Coast. Neither did the Rain any thing abate and by 10 a Clock in the Morning the Banks of the Creek were all overflown About 12 at Noon we brought our Canoa to the side of our Hut and fastned it to the stump of a Tree that stood by it that being the only refuge that we could now expect for the Land a little way within the Banks of the Creek is much lower than where we were So that there was no walking through the Woods because of the Water Besides the Trees were torn up by the Roots and tumbled down so strangely a-cross each other that it was almost impossible to pass through them The storm continued all this Day and the Night following till 10 a Clock then it began to abate and by 2 in the Morning it was quite calm This storm made very strange work in the Woods by tearing up the Trees by the Roots The ships also riding at Trist and at One-Bush-Key felt the fury of it to their sorrow for of four that were riding at One-Bush-Key three were driven away from their Anchors one of which was blown into the Woods of Beef-Island And of the four ships that were at Trist three also were driven from their Anchors one of which was cast up about 20 Paces beyond high Water-Mark on the Island of Trist. The other two were driven off to Sea and one of them was never heard of since The poor Fish also suffered extreamly by this storm for we saw multitudes of them either cast on the shore or floating dead on the Lagunes Yet this storm did not reach 30 Leagues to Wind-ward of Trist for Captain Vally of Jamaica went hence but 3 days before the storm began and was not past 30 Leagues off when we had it so fierce yet he felt none of it But only saw very black dismal Clouds to the Westward as he reported at his return from Jamaica to Trist 4 Months after I shall speak next of Hurricanes These are violent storms raging chiefly among the Caribee Islands though by Relation Jamaica has of late been much annoyed by them but it has been since the time of my being there They are expected in July August or September These storms also as well as the Norths or Souths give some signs of their approach before they come on I have not been in any one of them my self but have made enquiry of many Men that have and they all agree that either they are preceded by flattering unusual small Winds and very fair Weather or by a great glut of Rain or else by both Rains and Calms together I shall give an Instance of one that gave such warning It happened at Antego in August 1681. I had the Relation of it from Mr. John Smallbone before mentioned who was Gunner of a Ship of 120 Tuns and 10 Guns Commanded by Capt. Gadbury Before this storm it rained two days excessively then it held up two or three days more but the Sky was clouded and appear'd to be much troubled yet but little Wind. The Planters by this were certain of a Hurricane and warned the Ship-Commanders to provide for it especially Capt. Gadbury who had careen'd his ship in Muskito Cove in St. John's Harbour but a little before and by this warning given him by