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ID	Title	Author	Corrected Date of Publication (TCP Date of Publication)	STC	Words	Pages
A13508	Taylor his trauels: from the citty of London in England, to the citty of Prague in Bohemia The manner of his abode there three weekes, his obseruations there, and his returne from thence: how he past 600 miles downe the riuer of Elue, through Bohemia, Saxony, Anhalt, the bishoprick of Madeberge, Brandenberge, Hamburgh, and so to England. With many relations worthy of note. By Iohn Taylor.	Taylor, John, 1580-1653.	1620 (1620)	STC 23802; ESTC S118294	16,091	34

the best things in Bohemia the Court and Citty of Prague it shall not be amisse if I relate a little merily of some things there tolerable some intollerable some naught and some worse then naught for as euery rose hath a prickle and euery Bee a sting so no earthly kingdome hath such persection of goodnesse but it may be iustly taxed with imperfections Prague is a famous ancient kingly seate In scituation and in state compleate Rich in aboundance of the earths best treasure Proud and high minded beyond bounds or measure In Architecture stately in Atire Bezonians and Pleibeians do aspire To be apparell'd with the stately port Of worship honor or the royall court There coaches and carroches are so rife They do attend on euery trades mans wife Whose husbands are but in a meane regard And get their liuing by the ell or yard How euer their estates may be defended Their wiues like demy ladies are attended I there a Chimney sweepers wife haue seene Habillimented like the diamond Queene Most gaudy garish as a fine maid marrian With breath as sweete as any suger carrion With sattin cloake lin'd through with budg or sable Or cunny furre or what her purse is able With veluet hood with tiffanies and purles Rebatoes frizlings and with powdred curles And lest her hue or sent should be attainted She 's antidoted well persum'd and painted She 's fur'd she 's fring'd she 's lac'd and at her wast She 's with a massie chaine of siluer brac'd She 's yellow starch'd she 's ruff'd and cuff'd and muff'd She 's ring'd she 's braceleted she 's richly tuff'd Her petticoale good silke as can be bought Her smocke about the taile lac'd round and wrought Her gadding legges are finely spanish booted The whilst her husband like a slaue all sooted Lookes like a courtier to infernall Pluto And knowes himselfe to be a base cornuto Then since a man that liues by chimny sweepe His wife so gaudy richly clad doth keepe Thinke then but how a Merchants wife may go Or how a burgamaisters wife doth show There by a kind of top sie turuy vse The women weare the bootes the men the shooes I know not if 't be profit or else pride But sure th' are oft'ner riden then they ride These females seeme to be most valiant there Their painting shewes they do no colours feare Most art-like plastring natures imperfections With sublimated white and red complexions So much for pride I haue obserued there Theire other faults are almost euery where Thus hauing stayd in Prague almost 3. weekes I returned from thence homeward on tuesday the 26. of September hauing in my company three Gentlemen a widdow and foure small children whose husband and being an English man and the Kings Brewer for Beere deceased and was buried there in Prague whilst I was there the good desolate woman hauing receiued reward after seuen yeares seruice there and at Heidelberg being desirous to retire to her countrey England came with vs with my brother and my fellow Tilbery We tooke two Coaches at the Castle of Prague in a day and halfe we were carried seuen Duch miles to a Towne in Bohemia standing on the riuer of Elue called Leutmeritz at which Towne we all layd our moneyes together and bought a boate of 48. foote in length and not 3. foote in bredth and because we did not know the riuer wee hired a Bohemian waterman to guide vs 15. dutch miles to the Towne of Dreason in Saxony But 4. miles short of that Town which was the first Towne in the Saxon Countrey called Pirne where we were stayed 5. houres without the gates til such time as the Burgamaster wold be pleased to examin vs in the meane space our waterman not daring to abide the terrible triall of examination because the Duke of Saxon was in Armes against the King of Beame hee ran away and left vs to bring the boate downe the riuer 600. English miles our selues to Hamburgh But now to close vp all I will relate what rare dyet excellent cookery and sweete lodging we had in ouriourney in Germany first for our comfort after very hard getting of houseroome our lodgings was euery night in straw where lying together well littered we honestly alwayes left our sheetes behind vs then at our suppers at a table square and so broad that two men can hardly shake hands ouer it we being some twelue about it Our first dish being a raw cabbadge of the quantity of halfe a pecke cut and chopped small with the fat of resty bacon powred vpon it in stead of oyle which dish must be emptied before we could get any more Our second dish perhaps a peck of boylde Apples and honey the Apples being boyled skins stalkes cores and all Thirdly 100. Gudgeons newly taken perhaps yet as salt as if they had beene three yeares pickled or twice at the East Indies boyled with scales guts an all and buried in Ginger like sawdust a fresh pike as salt as brine boyled in flat milke with a pound of Garlick This was the manner of the most part of our dyet and if we did aske them why they did salt their meate so vnreasonably their answere was that their beer could not be consumed except their meat were salted extraordinarily If a man doe finde fault or seeme distasted with their beastly dyet he is in danger to be thrust out of dores and take vp his lodging in the streetes and in the conclusion when dinner or supper is ended then comes mine Host or his leather lip'd Froe with a sawcy reckoning of what they please which sounds in our eares like a harsh Epilogue after a bad playe for what they say wee must pay their words are irreuocable like the ancient Kings of Persia and we must not question or aske how and how it can bee so much but pay them their demand without grumbling to halfe a farthing Which made me call to minde sixe seuerall principals that doe belong to a traueller as patience silence warinesse watchfulnesse a good stomacke and a purse wel moneyed for if he want any one of these perhaps the other fiue will neuer bring him to his iournies end A mans patience must be such that though he be a Barron he must beare all abuses either in words lodging dyet or almost any thing though offered from or by a sowter a tinker or a Merchant of tripes turneps his silence must be that though he heare vnderstand himselfe wronged yet he must be as dumbe as a Gudgeon or a Whiting mop and though his mouth be shut his warinesse must be such that his eares must be euer open to listen and ouer-heare all dangers that may bee complotted against him his watchfulnesse must be so that he must seldome sleep with both his eyes at once lest his throat be cut before he wake againe But for his stomacke hee must eate grasse with a horse aud draffe with the hogges for hee that cannot eate pickl'd herring broth and dirty puddings shall many times fast by authority and goe to bed withont his supper and last of all he must haue Fortunatus or a Prince his purse that must bee like a drunkards dagger euer drawne to pay bountifully for such wash and graines as his valiant stomack hrth ouercome conquered and deuoured but of this a little in verse Sixe things vnto a Traueller belongs An Asses backe t' abide and beare all wrongs A fishes tougue mute grudging speech forbearing A Harts quick eare all dangers ouerhearing A dogs eyes that must wake as they doe sleepe And by such watch his corpes from perill keepe A swines sweete homely taste that must digest Al Fish Flesh Rootes Fowle foule and beastly drest And last he must haue euer at his call A purse well lynde with coyne to pay for all With this kinde of lodging and dyet and with tedious labour sometimes night and day wee came in 14. dayes 607. miles from Prague in Bohemia to Hambrogh on the hither skirts of Germany the riuer hauing aboue 1000. shelues and sands and 800. Ilands so that a man cannot see on which side of them to goe there being 240. mills chained in boates on the first streame and a number numberlesse of Oakes and other trees sunke with the violence of the Riuer and sometimes fogs and mists that we could not see a boates length from vs besides great Rocks and stones that were fallen into the water that any or many of these impediments do often ouerthrow boats and drowne passengers yet I and my fellow Tilbery wee being both his Maiesties watermen did by Gods assistance safely escape them all and brought our selues as is afore-sayd to Hamborogh where being winde bound 10. dayes I thanke the English Merchants I was well welcomed vntill at last it pleased God the winde came faire I tooke ship and after 9. dayes and nights of various weather I giue prayse to the Almighty I safely came home to my house in London on saterday the 28. of September 1620. You that haue bought this grieue not at the cost Ther 's something worth your noting al 's not lost First halfe a Constable is well bumbasted If there were nothing else your coynes not wasted Then I relate of hills and dales and downes Of Churches Chappels Pallaces and Townes And then to make amends although but small I tell a tale of a great Tub withall With many a gallowse Iibbit and a wheele Where murdrers bones are broke from head to heele How rich Bohemia is in wealth and food Of all things which for man or beast is good How in the Court at Prague a princely place A gracious Queene vouchsafed me to grace How on the sixteenth day of August last King Frederick to his royall army past How fifty thousand were in armes araid Of the Kings force be side th' Hungarian ayde And how Bohemia strongly can oppose And cuffe and curry all their daring foes Then though no newes of state may heere be had I know heer 's something will make good men glad No bringer of strange tales I meane to be Nor I le beleeue none that are told to me FINIS ●he first let●ers of his ●ames are L●nd ●nd his full ●ame being ●nnagrama●●'d is A Tro●eler a trobe●er he was to ●e and so I ●eare he hath ●ene to my Reader

on foote vp a steepe hill to the Gallowes where he was broken with a wheele aliue one bone after another beginning at his legs and ending with his neck and last of all quartered and layd on the wheele on a high post till Crowes Rauens or consuming time consume him This was the manner of both their executions but I speake but of the greatest murtherer particularly because it is reported that all these torments neuer made him once to change countenance or to make any signe or action of griefe to call to God for mercy or to entreate the people to pray for him but as if he had beene a senselesse stocke or stone he did most scornefully and as it were in disdaine abide it whilst the other villaine did crye rore and make lamentation calling vpon God often the difference was not much in their liues and manner of their deaths but I am perswaded the odds was great in their dying The City of Prague is almost circular or round being diuided in the middle by the riuer of Moldoue ouer which is a faire stone Bridge of 600. paces ouer and at each end a strong gate of stone there is said to be in it of Churches and Chappels 150. for there are great numbers of Catholiques who haue many Chappels dedicated to sundry Saints and I was there at foure seueral sorts of diuine exercises viz. at good sermons with the Protestants at Masse with the Papists at a Lutherans preaching and at the Iewes Synagog three of which I saw and heard for curiosity and the other for edification The Iewes in Prague are in such great numbers that they are thought to be of men women and children betwixt 50. or 60000. who doe all liue by brocage and vsury vpon the Christians and are very rich in money and Iewels so that a man may see tenne or twelue togither of them that are accounted worth 20. 30. or 40000. l. apiece and yet the slaues goe so miserably attired that 15. of them are not worth the hanging for their whole wardrobes The Castle where the King and Queene doe keepe their Court is magnificent and sumptuous in building strongly situated and fortified by nature and art being founded on a high hill so that at pleasure it keepes the towne in command and it is much more spacious in roomes for receipt in gardens and orchards then the Towre of London I was in it dayly the space of 20 dayes and saw it royally graced with the presence of a gracious King Queen who were honorably attēded by a gallant courtly traine of Lords and Ladies and Gentles of the high Dutch and Bohemians and where was free bountiful entertainment to strangers in abundance I must euer humbly and thankfully acknowledge the Queenes Maiesties goodnesse towards mee whose vndeserued fauours were helpful vnto me both there and in my tedious iorny home-ward Moreouer there I saw and had in mine armes the King and Queenes yongest son Prince Robert who was borne there on the 16 of December last a goodly child as euer I saw of that age whom with the rest I pray God to blesse to his glory and his Parents ioy and comfort There for a token I did thinke it meete To take the shoes from off this Prince his feete I doe not say I stole but I did take And whilst I liue I 'le keepe them for his sake Long may his Grace liue to be stylde a man And then I 'le steale his bootes too if I can The shoes were vpright shoes and so was he That wore them from all harme vpright and free He vsde them for their vse and not for pride He neuer wrong'd them or ne're trod a side Lambskin they were as white as Innocence True patternes for the footsteps of a Prince And time will come as I do hope in God He that in childhood with these shooes was shod Shall with his manly feete once trample downe All Antichristian foes to his renowne The citty of Prague hath in it by reason of the wars thrice the number of it's owne inhabitants and yet for all that victuals is in such great plenty that 6 men cannot eate three halfe penny worth of bread and I did buy in the market a fat goose well roast for the vallew of nine pence English and I and my brother haue dined there at a Cookes with good roasted meate bread and beere so that we haue bin satisfied and left for the vallew of fiue pence a good turky there may bee bought for two shillings and for fresh fish I neuer saw such store for in one market day I haue knowne in Prague 2000 carps besides other fishes which carps in London are fiue shillings a piece and there they were for eight pence or ten pence at the most so that one of their fresh fish markets heere were worth at the least 5 or 600 pounds and as for all other manner of wild foule they are there in satiety besides their fruites are in such abundance that I boght a basket of grapes of the quantity of halfe a pecke for a penny farthing a hat-ful of faire peaches for as much pickled cowcumbers I haue bought a pecke for three pence and muskmellons there hath bin cast fiue or six carts load of them in one day to their hoggs As concerning the dyet that is in the Kings armies I could neuer yet heare any man complaine of want but that it is more plentifull then in the citty the greatest scarcity hath bin to some sicke souldiers who being not able to march with the leaguers by reason of their weakenes they haue bin left amongst the Boores or husbandmen in the next villages where their languages not vnderstood their succour hath bin but small but for all this in the campe hath euer bin a continuall cheapnes of all things the King most duely paying his souldiers at the end of euery month hauing in his great leguer vnder the conduct of the Princes of Hollock and Anhalt of foote and horse 43000 and at the least of carts and waggons to carry prouision and baggage for the army to the number of 18000. In his little leaguer vnder the leading of Count Mansfelt there are of foote and horse 7000 besides carrs and waggons for carriage and yet for these great numbers of men and beastes there is food in all abundance In the campe with Graue Mansfelt is the Brittane regiment vnder their Colonel Sir Andrew Gray Knight and in Prague I met with many worthy Gentlemen and souldiers which were there sicke as the worthy Captaine Bushell Lieutenaut Grimes Lieuetenant Langworth Ancient Galbreath Ancient Vandenbrooke Maister Whitney Maister Blundell and others all which did most courteously entertaine me vnto whom I must euer rest thankful and they do affirme that now it hath pleased God to grant their souldiers recouery that they do hope euery Brittaine souldier doth retaine more good spirit then 3 enemies of what nation soeuer Thus hauing shewed part of