they would be in danger of committing great errours at Sea because of the Tides and Currents that either drive the Log forwards or backwards and to be assured of the exactness of that account the Log must be fixed and immoveable But the English are not mistaken for besides that invention of Miles they dayly take an observation of the Suns height besides they heave out the Log at every change encrease or decrease of the Wind. The English reckon their Miles at five hundred Geometrical paces only that is five Foot to the pace Cape of Jasques Carpella The distance of Ormus from Cape Jasques About half an hour after six we were off of the Cape of Jasques anciently called Carpella it lyes in five and twenty degrees and a half North Latitude and in thirty Leagues from Ormus From that Cape the Land bears East and by South to the River of Indus At Cape Jasques about half a Mile or a Mile up on Land there is a kind of a sorry Fort with about forty Houses inhabited by a sort of very poor people who live on Barley and drink nothing but water and that very brackish too they have two Barks or Taranquins wherein they carry Wood to sell at Mascat That wretched place is called Jasques and depends on the Governour of Comron who sends whom he pleases to Command in it Thursday the seventeenth of December about six a Clock in the morning we clapt on our Main-Top-Galant-Sail and stood away East keeping in sight of the Land of Persia least the Wind might force us too far out to Sea which about eleven a Clock turned north-North-East At noon we found that from Sun setting the day before we had run threescore and one Miles or twenty Leagues and a third at the rate of three Miles a League At one of the Clock we bore away East and by South About four a Clock the Wind chopping about to West we bore away South-East and by East About half an hour after five we had East North-East of us a little low Isle close by the Persian shoar which in that place is very low About six a Clock we were off and on with that little Isle Friday the eighteenth of December in the morning we Steered our Course East and by South and at noon we found that from that time the day before we had made eight and thirty Leagues then the Wind got into North-West and we bore away South-East and by East that we might not run within Land which we obscurely made on Head a little to the Larboard Next morning the Wind abated and therefore we stood away East and by South At noon we found by our reckoning that we had in the last four and twenty hours made five and twenty Leagues and a half Then the Captain Mate and Gunner took an Observation of the Sums height with a Quadrant as well as they could for none of the three had much skill in it and the Maâ—e least of all all three agreed that we were in twenty four degrees thirty minutes Latitude About evening the Wind shifted into South-West but it was so easie that scarcely did it curl the water yet we Steered away South-East and by East that we might not be cast a shoar Sunday the twentieth of December it continued still calm weather so that at noon we found we had made but five Leagues way and our Men having taken their Observation found that we were still in the Latitude of twenty four degrees thirty minutes as we were the day before and that day every one was stinted to a measure and a half of water by day Towards the evening we made the Land of Persia and were but about five Leagues off of it which made us Steer away South-East and by South and stand out to Sea contrary to the opinion of the Mate who would have kept in by the Shoar giving this reason for it that we needed not fear to be cast too far to the Leeward as the Captain said because at that time the East Wind blows along the Coast of Sindy and besides being near Land in case it proved bad weather we might come to an Anchor and take in water which we were affraid we might come to want But the chief reason why he would have stood in to shoar and which he kept to himself was that he might know the place where he was for these are such an ignorant sort of Men that so soon as they lose sight of Land they know no more where they are The Captain made answer to all his reasons that it was bad advice to make us double our way without any necessity and that we had no reason to go look for East Winds having the Wind at South-West which though it was easie still kept us going on in our Course and would if it freshened bring us in a short time whither we were bound and in that case we needed not go look for water whereof as yet we had no want besides that by standing in to shoar we run a risk of meeting the Zinganes those Pirats I mentioned before whom no body desired to see and we put our selves also in danger of not being able to get out to Sea again for a long time if the Wind which we had lasted because we must wait for another Wind which perhaps might not offer in some weeks time In fine it behoved the Pilot to acquiesce to this judgment which was approved by all of us nay the Gunner was for having us steer our Course more to the Southward and he was not out in that for the Coast of Cape Jasques bears West and by North and East and by South and we Steered South-East and by East from which substracting a Point and a half which is the variation of the Needle and then our Course would prove to be East a Point and a half towards South and so we were but half a Point to the Windward of the Land of Persia and this Course carried us streight to the Gulf which is to the Northward of the Isle of Diu but the Captain would not change his Course fearing to meet with an East Wind which would have driven him too far above the place whither we were bound and therefore he would not bear away South till he was near the Isle of Diu. Monday the one and twentieth of December our Observers found at noon that we were in twenty four degrees twenty five minutes Latitude and that we had run ten Leagues Next day they found twenty four degrees five minutes Latitude and that we had run fourteen Leagues the last twenty four hours About four a Clock in the afternoon the Heaven was on all Hands overcast with thick black Clouds and at the same time there arose a small Gale from West North-West which presently drove the Clouds upon us we expected a strong Gust of Wind but we were excused for a shower of Rain which was indeed violent but lasted not without
At two a Clock we had a breeze from North-West and we bore away South-East and by East About six a Clock the Wind slackened much About seven a Clock our Ships Head stood South-East Friday the five and twentieth of December at six a Clock in the morning it blew a West North-West Wind and we steered on our Course still South-East About seven a Clock the Sky was overcast with Clouds which brought Rain with them and we saw some more Spouts at a pretty good distance and a Weather-Gall this Weather-Gall was like a Segment of a Rain-Bow rising from the Horizon about three degrees or if you will it seemed to be three Foot high Sometimes they appear over a Ship and that is commonly a presage of a Tempest and the Portuguese call this Phenomenon an Oxes Eye About eight a Clock it blew a pretty fresh Gale from North but immediately it veered about to North-East and became very weak At noon we were by our Observations in three and twenty degrees two and fifty minutes Latitude and had made from noon to noon thirteen Leagues Then the Captain and Mate made account that we were eight or ten Leagues off of the Land of Sindy and about five and twenty Leagues from Jaquelte for my part by what I could make out by my Map we were twenty Leagues off Malan and to the Southward of Malan and forty Leagues from Sindy and near threescore Leagues from Jaquelte and this agreed with the Gunners Observation but he durst not say any thing for fear of quarelling with the Captain who thought every body ignorant in respect of himself and nevertheless it was found afterwards that he and the Mate were in the mistake About four a Clock the Wind turned East South-East and we Steered North-East About five a Clock we had a great shower of Rain from a thick Cloud over head which being past we had the Wind at South-East and bore away North-East Half an hour after six we had Rain again with Lightning but we were becalmed and turned the Ships Head North-East At seven a Clock the Wind turned South and by East and we bore away East and by South Half an hour after ten we were becalmed but about eleven a Clock had a great flurry which made much noise at first and this made us furl all our Sails but a great shower of Rain soon carried it off and the Sea being smooth we Steered away South-East and by South At midnight we cast the Lead but though they veered out sixty Fathom of Rope yet we had no ground which was like to have made the Captain mad for shame for he believed us to be very near Land and he fell into a Passion with the Mate saying that he had not left importuning him for two days to heave out the Lead We were all night becalmed though at times we had several showers of Rain Saturday the six and twentieth of December about seven a Clock there blew a gentle Gale from East North-East which made us Steer away South-East and by South About half an hour after nine the Wind being all Easterly we stood away South-East then master Manuel Mendez who perceived very well that no body knew where we were advised the Captain to stand in to Land and gratifie the Pilot which highly offended him saying that since they took him for an ignorant blockhead for the future he would only sleep and take his rest and let the Ship go which way she pleased and that to content us he would put back and make the Land at Jasques however this went no farther About ten a Clock the Wind turned East north-North-East and we stood away South-East At noon the Gunner found by his Observations that we were in twenty three degrees forty five minutes the Captain in twenty three degrees five minutes and the Mate in twenty three fifteen minutes and in four and twenty hours we had only made about six Leagues That day we began to see of those Birds which the Portuguese call Rabo de Junco Rabo de Junco a Fowl. and are a kind of Sea-Mews only they are bigger and have the Tail all of a piece and pointed like a Rush wherefore they are called Rush Tails and they keep upon the water as the Sea-Mews do At one a Clock the Wind slackened and chopped into the East and we Steered South and by East About four a Clock we tackt and stood away North. About half an hour after five the Wind having veered about to East North-East we Steered South-East About half an hour after seven the Wind turned North-East and by East About ten a Clock it was full North-East and we bore away East South-East Sunday morning the seven and twentieth of December at five of the Clock the Wind turned East and by North and we Steered our Course South-East and by South About nine a Clock we bore away South-East because the Wind was at East North-East and blew pretty fresh Our Officers took an Observation at noon and were again of different opinions the Captain had two and twenty degrees fifty two minutes the Mate twenty three and the Gunner three and twenty degrees and two minutes and in twenty four hours we had made fourteen Leagues In the Evening a flying Fish leaped into our Ship. The Wind freshened so much in the night-time that we were obliged to furl our Top Sails Monday noon the twenty eighth of December the Captain found out by his Observation that we were in the Latitude of twenty two degrees eight minutes and the Gunner in twenty two degrees eighteen minutes in four and twenty hours we had made fourteen Leagues That day we saw a great many Weeds or Herbs floating upon the water which the Portuguese call Sargaso Herb Sargaso and that is one sign of being near the Land of the Indies many such are also to be seen towards Brasil The stalk of that Herb is small blackish and as supple as a hair the Leaves of it are long and narrow and a little jagged besides the Leaves it hath a great many small clear and transparent Berries as soft as little Goosberries that stick to the stalk This Herb grows upon the Rocks in the Sea and being torn off by storm it floats upon the water till it be cast a shoar About two in the afternoon the Wind slackened much and therefore we spread our Main-Top and Fore-Top-Sails the Sea which had been very high before growing calm and smooth within a few hours Tuesday morning the nine and twentieth of December about seven a Clock the Wind was at North North-East and we Steered our Course East At noon the Gunner found that we were in one and twenty degrees forty four minutes Latitude and that in the space of twenty four hours we had made thirteen Leagues and a half at midnight we Steered East and by South that we might keep off of the Banks that are towards Diu our Company thinking themselves nearer to
we answered the like Being come within Musquet shot we heard their Trumpets sounding French Levets which made the Turks who were on board of us take them for Ships of Tunis being come nearer they again saluted us without a Bullet which we did not answer only furled our Main-sail to shew them that we resolved to Fight and not to Run for it We were then on board in all an hundred and fifty Men and expected to spend the Night in fighting and not sleeping for the Sun was set and we had no Light but from the Moon which shone out very clear Our Mate hailed them from the Poop and demanded who they were Who having answered They were Friends The Mate then called to them The meeting of two Ships of Tunis That if so they should fall to the Leeward which they did sailing so near our Stern that our Turks easily spoke to them And having asked who they were They answered they were Ships of Tunis An English Renegado called Solyman Reys commanded them and they belonged to the Dey The biggest and best Sailer of the two Ships carried thirty six Guns and the other which was less five and twenty having each two hundred Men on board When they knew that the Prince Don Philippo was on board of us they saluted him with three Guns and our Captain ordered the salute to be rendred but to the Windward because all our Guns were loaded with Shot and these Gentlemen were to the Leeward of us the Gunner fired two Guns to the windward but the third missing fire he ran in all haste to that which was nearest without considering what he did and it happening to be to the Leeward and they just off and on with us he fired it and shot a Bullet into the middle of the biggest Ships side This put our Captain into a great Passion against the Gunner who ran away and hid himself Immediately they came on board of us in their Boat and complained highly of that Action demanding him who had fired the Gun to be delivered unto them because they said they had a Man killed and two wounded by the shot Which we believed to be false Because one said one man Killed and two wounded another two Killed another two wounded and another three Our Captain told them That it was an Accident and that many times Ships upon their entring into a Port intending to salute the Town have by Inadvertency shot Bullets into the place But they still persisting in their demand he told them That if they would needs have him they should go on board their Ship again and then come and take him Which perhaps they might have attempted had we not had Turks on board who would have suffered for it For it was an Article in their Peace that he that first shot a Bullet broke the Peace When they found that there was nothing to be done they drank a Cup or two and returned to their Ship giving us two Letters for Tunis After that they bore away Eastward and we held on our Course till towards Midnight that we tackt about but then the Wind turning West Cape Bon. Galippa we tackt again standing away North-north-east and sailed by Cape Bon and the Castle of Galippa Saturday the first of March we tackt and leaving the Castle of Galippa to the Leeward bore away North-west but the Wind chopping into the North which blows full from Tunis we stood away West-north-west and coming close up with the Castle of Galippa which is a small square Castle upon a Hill we left it to the Leeward and then tacking again bore away east-north-East-north-east that we might also weather Cape Bon and so get where we desired to be We kept beating in this manner a pretty while the Current carrying us always off of Cape Bon and the same day had sower gusts of Wind and Rain Sunday Morning the second of March we made a Corsair near to Pantalaria whom we waited for without breaking our Course and so soon as he was come within Masquet shot of us we halled up our Main sail he putting out Red Colours and we the English Then he came under our Stern and we informed our selves that a Turk called Ahmet Reys commanded the Ship that belonged to private Men of Tunis She was a small Ship that two years before had been taken by them from a Captain of Marseilles she carried then fourteen Guns and had about two hundred Men on board having saluted one another each with a Gun we steered on our several Courses Monday Morning the third of March we had another kind of Allarm when a Seaman on the Maintop-mast head cried he saw four Sail which proved only to be Rocks that day we began to sail farther upon a Tack to wit from Pantalaria to Sicily and were got very near to it in the Evening when we Tackt about and stood back again for Pantalaria We had so bad Luck that when the Wind was fair some Corsair or other made us lose the occasion of it for doubling the Cape for then we must make ready to Fight and by that time they knew us to be Friends the Wind was gone Or otherwise when we were in one place a Wind offered that would have been very good for us if we had stayed where we were the day before and when the Wind was good we had a high Sea on head as on Tuesday the fourth of March when with a North-wind we were got above twenty Miles to the Windward of Cape Bon but making no way forward because of a high Sea we had on head we found our selves in the Evening to the Leeward of the said Cape and tacked about for Sicily from whence standing off again next day the fifth of March and with the same North-wind bearing West-north-west we were got so far to the windward of Cape Bon that we were in hopes to have weathered it but a high Sea on Head the Current and contrary wind drove us so to the Leeward that being within a League of the said Cape we could not double it though we wanted but a little of having done it We therefore stood off again towards the East-north-east Friday night and Saturday morning the seventh of March we had storms of Rain and all sorts of Winds and yet were so fortunate that in the Morning we found our selves forward enough in our Course to have doubled the Cape The same Morning we had the Wind at North-east which made us bear away West-north-west and freshening a little put us in hopes of doubling the Cape but half an hour after it shifted about to the West and that made us bear away South-west An hour after it chopt about to North and by East and blowing pretty fresh we made all the Sail we could standing away West-north-west and so about two a Clock in the Afternoon with much joy we doubled Cape Bon called in Turkish Kara Bouroun Kara Bouroun having been eight days beating
themselves insupportable to all People forcing all the Women and Boys they meet with so that if a Dey would have his Son to succeed him he must get him made Dey in his own Life-time The Aga of the Customes at Tunis Gillet They have at Tunis also an Aga of the Customes who has a vast Revenue and is a man of great Authority The Moors of Barbary are not altogether Apparrelled like the Turks for instead of a Doliman and a Vest they wear a Wastecoat which they call Gillet and over it a Justacors which reaches down to the knee girt about with a large Girdle on their head they wear a Fez-cap shaped like a Bell and a thick Turban round it They are all Apparrelled after this manner except some Officers as for instance there are six Chiaoux's of Justice who wear a sharp pointed Cap with a Turban about it and a kind of Hanging-sleeve that is interlaced with it behind their back the Oda Bashas go much after the same manner but there is this difference that their Hanging-sleeve ends as it were in a pair of Horns They have no Janizaries but men of pay and generally all Renegadoes so that Italian is very commonly spoken at Tunis and if a Christian would say any thing that he would not have known he should not speak French neither for he might easily be understood and pay dear for it CHAP. LXXXXIII Of the Punishments which are in Vse at Tunis THE Punishments used at Tunis differ according to the quality of the Persons When a Turk in pay deserves Death he is Executed in a Chamber and not Publickly They make him sit down in a Chair and two Christian Slaves pulling each an end of a Cord that is put about his Neck quickly strangle him The Turks of mean condition or Moors are Hanged upon the outside of the Walls they set them upon the Wall put about their Neck a Halter made fast in a hole purposely made in the Wall and then pushing them down they are also soon dispatched As for Maids or Women that have deserved Death they choak them in the Oaze by the Sea-side putting their Head into it and a Man setting his Foot upon their Neck They have other very cruel Punishments for the Renegadoes that turn Christians again They wrap them up in Pitched Cloth put a Cap of the same upon their Head and then make a Fire round them Or otherwise they put them to a crueller Death For they wall them up so that there is nothing but their Head without the Wall and having rubbed over their Head and Face with Honey leave them so exposed for three days and as many nights to the discretion of the Flies which pain them to Death within less time The Slaves are punished with Bastonadoes or they cut off their Ears or Nose according to the quality of the Offence But if a Slave kill his Master or any other Turk they break his Legs and Arms then tie him to a Horses Tail and after they have dragged him so about the Town strangle him giving the Body to the Franks to be Buried but most commonly the Boys take him from the Executioner as they did a French Man a little before I came to Tunis for there are no wickeder Boys in the World than in that Town They snatcht that dead Body out of the Executioners hands in spight of the Mezoar Mezoar who is the Officer whom in Turky they call the Sous-basha and having dragged him about for some time longer they Roasted him a little with Straw which they kindled under him and then threw him into the Ditch out of which the French afterwards took him and buried him in their Burying Place called St. Anthony for the English have one by themselves When I was at Tunis the Franks lived severally in the Houses which they Hired but they were a Building a pretty commodious Oquele where they must all Lodge with their Consuls as in other places of the Levant CHAP. LXXXXIV Our Departure from Goletta and the Continuation of our Voyage AT length our Captain having done all his Business and the Wind offering fair it was time for us to leave Tunis We parted from thence on Wednesday the six and twentieth of March Carthage about eleven a Clock in the Morning and went by Land on Horse-back that we might see somewhat of Carthage We went close by the Ruines of it which are above three Leagues from Tunis and there saw the remains of stately Aqueducts which conveyed water from Zagouan to Carthage many of the Arches whereof are still standin the Road to the Cantre as we said before The Ruines of Carthage signifie but little being only heaps of Stones and some places under Ground where there are great Cisterns nay from these Ruines they daily carry away Marble and other Stones for their Buildings in Tunis and the Country Houses about We came to the Sea-side about three a Clock in the Afternoon and being got on board we stayed still there all that day because our Captain had some Business to do with him that Commanded at Goletta concerning the dues that he is to have from every Ship. Next morning Thursday the seven and twentieth of March we set sail with a good South-east Wind steering away North-north-west but about Noon the Wind slackened a little and the night following it turned Northerly which made us put back again to the Road of Goletta where we arrived on Friday the twenty eighth of March about ten a Clock in the morning Saturday the nine and twentieth of March the Wind veered about to north-North-east and the night following we had all sorts of Winds At length Sunday the thirtieth of March we had a gentle Gale from South-west and an hour after day we set sail steering our course North but about ten a Clock we were becalmed and about Noon it blew a breez from North which within an hour after changed to North-east and an hour after that to East so that we still kept on our Course Two hours within Night the Wind turned South-south-west and we stood away North-north-east Monday morning the one and thirtieth of March we were becalmed and continued so till Tuesday the first of April when about ten a Clock in the Morning we had a small Gale from North-west and we steered away West towards Sardinia In the Evening two hours after Sun-set the Wind turned Easterly and we stood our Course again north-north-North-north-east in the night-time we had a calm which lasted all next day Wednesday the second of April However it always blew a little breez sometimes one way sometimes another though the Sea was still smooth and calm In the Evening from the Maintop head we made a Sail off of Sardinia which followed its Course as we did ours Northward with a gentle Gale from East We were becalmed in the night-time and continued so till next day the third of April when about nine in the morning it blew a
breez from South-west which within half an hour after changed into a stronger Gale from East and we continued our course Northwards We had a calm again about Noon which lasted till next day Friday the fourth of April when about eight a Clock in the morning it blew a gentle South-east Gale which about Noon turned full South and about three or four a Clock next morning it blew a good fresh Gale from West half an hour after we discovered a Polaque a-stern and close up with us which made very quick way We called to him Alarga and turned all out and stood to our Arms. At length he sailed by to the Windward within a Pistol shot of us which our Captain observing commanded a Broadside to be fired at him but the chief Mate dissuaded him telling him that if he was a Corsair his Consorts who probably could not be far off would hear the noise of the Guns and so come up with us in the mean time he made very great way Hereupon various Judgments past Some said they were Spaniards who would have surprised us Others that it was one of the Polaques that Trade betwixt Legorn and Sardinia for Cheese and such like Commodities and carrying but three or four Men they might have been asleep and so did not see our Ship. But most part thought it was a Prize taken by the Barbary-men which they sent into Barbary seeing when they passed by us they called Cbaban who was Reys of a Tunis Man of War then out at Sea taking our Ship perhaps for Chaban Reys his Ship. About three a Clock in the morning we passed Sardinia and all that we could see of the Land for two days space that we sailed along the Goast of it were only very high Mountains And now we were got into the entry of the streight that is betwixt Sardinia and Corsica there the wind blew so fresh that we made above seven Miles an hour which was a great deal for such a heavy Ship as ours We kept our Course still Northward and about ten a Clock in the Morning made Monte Christo a little after Elba and on the other side Corsica and then we steered North-north-west About eleven a Clock in the Forenoon the Wind changed to South-west and blew pretty hard and about that time we made a Sail which strove to get the Wind of us about Noon he was got to the Windward and being within Cannon shot put out English Colours and we did the like but he still bearing down upon us we halled up our Main-sail and waited for him When he was come up with us our Men knew it to be a Flemish Pinck commanded by an English-man who had bought it He told us that he came from Legorn and was bound for Tunis that the Palaque we met was a Prize taken by a Caraveue and Bark of Tunis that were Consorts that he had met with them but that he had seen no Spanish Ship which much rejoyced us After that he drank our Captains health and fired a Gun which our Captain having answered he went his way and we followed our Course The Wind slackened much in the Afternoon and about five a Clock in the Evening we made two Sail near the Land of Corsica which strove for the Wind of us We thought they had been the two Barbary men they told us of however we stood upon our Guard. About six a Clock at night we were almost becalmed and we discovered Fires a-shoar in Corsica which as I think they made because of those two Corsairs About seven a Clock the Wind turned Easterly and we held on our course North-north-west leaving Monte Christo a-stern of us About nine a Clock the head-most of the two Corsairs sailed by a pretty way to the Windward of us and continued his Course I believe they were afraid of us however we were all night upon our Guard. We were then becalmed till next day Sunday the sixth of April when about five a Clock in the morning an easie Gale began to blow from East which by little and little freshened and we stood away North-north-east About six a Clock in the morning we made a Sail coming upon us afore the Wind and we kept on our Course to meet him when he was come within a League or thereabouts of us he put out White Colours and we look'd upon that to be but a Trick of a Spanish Corsair In short we shew'd the English Colours and he continued following us till eight a Clock in the morning when he Tackt about and stood away the way that we came Perhaps he was afraid when he saw our Guns out and that we did not run for it Some thought that it was one of the two Corsairs whom we had seen the day before Others that it was a Spaniard And others again that it was a French-man In the mean time we made way still and within a little passed the Isle of Elba of which the Spaniards have one half Elba It hath two good Ports the one is called Porto Ferraro and belongs to the great Duke and the other Porto Longone and belongs to the Spaniards The French took it in the Year One thousand six hundred and forty six but lost it again One thousand six hundred and fifty About ten a Clock we were becalmed about two in the Afternoon we had an easie Gale from North-north-west and steered our course West-north-west An hour after we made a Ship and a Bark a-stern and another Ship on head of us About four a Clock we saw the Ship a stern give chase to the Bark and afterwards take her About six a Clock we passed the Isle Caprara leaving it to the Starboard Caprara because of the contrary Wind. When we were come near to it they made a Smoak upon the Tower to give warning to the Coast and there we put out our Colours From that place we made a Ship at the point of the Island and on the other hand a Fisher-Boat This Isle belongs to the Genoese it is small not being above ten Miles in Circuit but fruitful in good Wine On the South-side of it there is a little Tower and a Castle on the North-side which has fifty Soldiers in Garison and about an hundred Inhabitants who are so much given to Shooting there being great store of Game upon the Island that for five or six pound of Powder they 'll give you a Barrel of Wine and thanks to boot The Anchovy Fishing There and before the Isle Gorgona they fish for Anchoves and in Fishing-season so many Boats come there upon that account that about the Month of May there are above five hundred Souls lodged in the Castle CHAP. LXXXXV The Relation of an Engagement we had with three Spanish Corsairs SVnday night and Monday morning the seventh of April the Wind was fickle sometimes Westerly sometimes Easterly but blew always fresh and we still kept on our Course but Monday the
So soon as we were on board she made sail with a North-Wind and steered a course South-South-West about six a clock at night the Wind chopped about to North-West Capraia Elbe and we passed betwixt Capraia and the Elbe in the night-time the Wind blew very fresh Monte Christo Corsica Next morning we were got an hundred and fourscore miles from Legorn and saw Monte Christo a great way a-stern of us we coasted along the Island of Corsica and because we were too near Land about ten of the clock in the morning we stood away south-south-South-South-East the Wind slackening much All that day we had Sardinia to the Star-board Sardinia but at a pretty good distance In the beginning of the Night the Wind blew a little fresher but far less than the Night before Saturday morning the six and twentieth we had lost sight of Sardinia and being fair before the Wind so that no Sails but the Main and Main-Top-Sails could bear we put out our Stutting Sails About noon the Wind shifted about to the North and two hours after to the north-North-East and therefore we took in our Stutting Sails and kept on our course south-south-South-South-East In the evening the Wind abated so that all night long we were becalmed Maretimo Next day being Sunday we made the Island of Maretimo a-head and about eleven a clock in the morning we stood away South-East about two a clock afternoon we made a Sail a great way off to the Leeward all that day we had a Calm till night when the Wind blew so fresh again that about midnight we past betwixt Maretimo Levanzo Favignane Levanzo and La Favignane leaving the first of these Islands to the Star-board and the other two to the Larboard then we steered away East South-East shortly after the Wind so slackned that we were becalmed Sicily Capo Boco Marsala Munday morning about break of day we were got very near the Land of Sicily to the Wind-ward of Capo Boco over against Marsala it is five hundred miles from Legorn We made still some way in our course East-South-East notwithstanding the Calm which lasted till noon when the Wind blowing fresher we coasted along Sicily pretty near the Shoar about four a clock afternoon the Wind encreasing a little we stood away South-South-East and this fair weather beginning with the New Moon made the Captain repent that he had not passed through the Phare of Messina Phare of Messina which would have saved him fifty miles in his course but then he told me that he durst not venture through so dangerous a passage in the Winter-time when Storms are so frequent and the rather about New Moon when commonly the VVinds change Towards the evening we were becalmed and had a breeze again in the beginning of the night and in that manner the Wind fell and rose several times during the night That day Murenes we took two Murenes or Sea-Eeles which were in the Fisher mens Wells this Fish is dainty Food but the Skin of it is Slimey and is so full of small bones that if one have not a care he may be choaked by them it is shaped like a common Eele and dies so soon as it is out of the Water Tuesday a very fresh East-North-East Wind rose with the Sun and we continued our course South-South-East about ten of the clock in the morning the Wind ceased and left us in a Calm over against Monte Gibello Monte Gibello which we saw so plainly that we could easily perceive it was covered with Snow A little after we made a Ship on head but because it stood in to Shoar we thought they were afraid of us The Calm lasted till night during which we had sometimes Breezes of Wind and sometimes Calms with which we made a little way Wednesday morning we were got in sight of Malta Malta seven hundred miles from Legorn and about two hundred from Sicily which we had not yet lost sight of He that looked out made a Sail towards Malta At first we were in a dead Calm but a little after we had a very great Sea from the West which tossed us sufficiently though there was not a breath of Wind we therefore furled our Sails and that rowling Sea lasted till one of the clock at noon when there arose a gentle North-North-East-Breeze which made us spread our Sails and stand away East-South-East that we might make Candie Candie seven hundred miles from Malta That Wind lasted not above an hour so that we were becalmed till about eleven a clock at night when we had a stiff North Gale with which we still continued our course East-South East That fresh Gale lasted all Thursday till night and then we had a strong gust of Wind with some Rain when that was over we had fair weather the Sea becoming Calm in a moment though before the Rain it was exceeding rough but half an hour after the weather and Sea began to grow rougher than before and then Calmed again which happened twice that night During these gusts the Sea was so rough that it was not possible to stand upright in any place of the Ship so strangely was she tossed because of a rowling Sea that came upon us on poop and on both sides the roughness of the Sea in poop was occasioned by the violence of the Wind and on the Star-board by the currents of the Gulf of Venice off of which we were Gulf of Venice and nevertheless we made betwixt eight and ten miles an hour About midnight it blew fresh from North-West with which we bore away East and by South that we might not stand too far off of the Gozo of Candie That Wind lasted all Friday the first of February Gozo of Candie about night we had smoother Water the Sea on poop only remaining which with the Wind that shifted about to the West and blew fresh made us run above twelve miles an hour but about ten a clock at night we had a swelling Sea again which made us rowl all night long Next day we were troubled with the same weather and strong gusts of Wind by fits About night since we had not made the Land of Candie as we expected by reason of the cloudy dark day it was consulted what course we should steer every one brought forth his observations and all agreed in general that our course was to the Windward of the Gozo of Candie but because one amongst them according to his account set off our course betwixt Candie and the Gozo though it was known he was in a mistake seeing according to his own account we must then have been very near and almost upon the said Gozo nevertheless for greater security it was thought fit to spare Sail and therefore all the Sails except the fore-Sail were furled and the Ships head turned due east-south-East-South-East least we might run too near the Shoar the Watch looking out sharp all night
long during which the Wind was very high and stormy which exceedingly tossed us Sunday about break of day we tacked about and stood North East that we might make Candie after two hours sailing the Seamen made something dark on head which they believed to be the Land of Candie we steered our course that way all day long but could not make it plain because of Clouds We continued the same course still till eleven of the clock at night and then began to tack and beat to and again that we might bear in with the Land of Candie It blew very hard all that night and we had a violent storm Munday by break of day we had the Wind at North which being quite contrary for Candie made us resolve to quit our design of standing towards that Island which we had made but very obscurely and to bear away towards Alexandria in Egypt The distance of Candie from Alexandria four hundred miles distant from Candie and therefore we steered our course South-East Towards Evening the Wind abated and we were becalmed until Tuesday Morning when there blew a gentle breeze from South-East which made us turn the ship's head towards the North we were obliged to keep so upon tacks that we might not over shoot Alexandria from which we were not above two hundred fourscore and ten miles Then did every one blame and curse the Sea-man whose errour was the cause that we were not in the Port of Alexandria About six a Clock at Night we tacked about and stood away South-South-West it blew so hard that our Vessel shipped the Sea on both sides one after another Wednesday Morning February the sixth the Wind was so violent that we were afraid we should sail our Masts because the Stays were very slack being loosened by the force of the Wind the day before the Stay is a great Cable that holds the Mastraunt each Mast has one the main Stay which is the biggest is made fast one end to the ship's head and the other to the round top of the main Mast To prevent that disaster all the Sails were furled the ship's head turned North-East and a quarter of an hour after the Stayes being well bent we bore away West-South-West with the missen and foresail the Wind being a little fallen after dinner we spread the main Sail and about six a Clock at Night having tacked about we stood East-North-East the Wind then slackening more and more Thursday Morning we were almost becalmed but about ten of the Clock a South-East Wind blowing again we tacked and bore away South-South-West about six a Clock at Night we tacked again and stood East-North-East Friday about two or three of the Clock in the Morning immediately after the Moon was set the South-East Wind ceased and the so much desired West and North Wind came in place of it which made us turn the ship's head South-East and make all the sail we could but we made but little way for all that the Wind being so easie that it was almost a calm It continued so till about five of the Clock at Night and then the Wind changed to North-West but was so easie that the Sea was very smooth about ten a Clock at Night the Wind chopping about to the North-West in five or six hours time we made a great deal of way there being very little or no Sea going but the Wind freshened afterwards and then we spared sail that we might not run to the Lee-ward of Alexandria the ship's head in the mean time lying still South-East Saturday Morning the Weather was very hazy and a little after we were almost in a calm About eleven a Clock he that looked out made a sail and shortly after another which were known to be Saicks coming from Egypt About two a Clock after Noon the Wind turned South-East and we stood away North-East an hour after it shifted about to the North-East again but was so easie that the Sea was smooth and we steered our course South a few minutes after it turned South-East again but so gentle that the Sea was as smooth as a Looking-glass We sailed South-South-West till six at Night when having tacked we stood away East-North-East About midnight the Wind turned West-South-West and we steered our course South-South-East after an hours sailing we found the Water to be whitish which made us think we were not far from Egypt The Land of Egypt that being the onely mark that can be had for the Land is so low that one cannot make it till he be just upon it especially when it is dark as it was then and that whiteness is occasioned by the Nile which carries it a great way into the Sea. Sunday the tenth of February about break of day it was thought we had seen the Light of Alexandria but it proved onely to be a Saick and because we were apprehensive that we were to the Lee-ward of Alexandria about nine in the morning we tacked about and stood North-West and about three a Clock after Noon tacked again and bore away South-West we had afterwards several Flurries that brought great showers of rain with them which were soon over About five in the Evening the Wind turned West-North-West and we tacked about that we might get to the windward of Alexandria from which we were still about an hundred and ten Miles distant and therefore we bore away North. In this manner we plied to and again against our will and it was our misfortune that we knew not where we were onely because we had not made the Island of Candie An errour of calculation in the sailing from whence with that Wind we might easily have come to Alexandria in two Days and one Nights time and the reason why we made it not plainly was that the Ship had run two hundred Miles more than we had reckoned and that when we thought our selves to be at the beginning of Candie we were almost quite past it as we since observed The Wind blew hard and we had several gusts in the Night time We held on the same course still untill Munday when about eleven a Clock in the Fore-noon we tacked and bore away South-West In the Evening the Moon three hours after the full was eclipsed I cannot tell at what hour that Eclipse began of how many parts it was nor how long it continued because she rose overcast with Clouds so that we could not see her but when she was coming out of the Eclipse as near as I could guess she had then been up near an hour and the Sun had not been set half an hour at which time she was almost half eclipsed The Eclipse decreased from the time we perceived it and ended half an hour after The Almanacks of Marseilles foretold it to be very great about two or three a Clock after Noon and by consequence affirmed that it could not be seen In the Night the Wind abated much and so did the Sea which in the
off their Course by and when I asked them where we were they made me answer that they could not tell after so much tacking At every turn they said to me Allah Kerim that 's to say God is great telling me with all that once they had made that Voyage being but one Night out at Sea. Amongst them there was no distinction of Master they jeered and abused one another openly and no body could hinder it The Reis never commanded any thing to be done but with tears almost in his Eyes and stamping with his foot like a Child so that we seemed to be utterly lost and indeed they all made a fool of him and imitating his voice bid one another do what he ordered without stirring in the least In short I believe these Blades had never been at Sea in a storm going and coming commonly as they told me in fair Weather Tuesday and all Wednesday almost we had successively East and South-East Winds which made us bear away north-north-North-North-East at length on Wednesday about ten of the Clock at Night the Wind turned Westerly and we bore away east-north-East-North-East Next day being exactly mid-lent the same Wind blew tempestuously and the Sea being very rough we rowled so as every moment we were like to be overset The sky was extremely overcast on all hands and amongst other fierce gusts which we met with from time to time we had one about half an hour after five in the Evening wherein we had like to have been cast away Seeing these lazy Lubbards saw it a coming they took the pains to furle the main sail and left none abroad but the sprit-sail whilst that storm lasted we were darkned as if we had been under some great Vault it lasted almost half an hour with great violence and in the mean time all were very silent To what hand soever we looked we saw nothing but stormy Clouds and this was still following us nevertheless when it was almost spent we made Mount Carmel Mount Carmel Acre Immediately we bore away East and sailed with VVind in poop towards Acre but having no more but about half an hour of day and it being impossible all the diligence we could use to come up with it before it were an hour after Night we tacked about and stood North for fear of running a ground In the Night-time we had many furious gusts and a great deal of Lightning A little before that great storme I have been mentioning fell we saw about two hundred paces from us a Flock of little red Birds flying Red Birds I thought at first that the reflexion of the Sun made them look to be of that Colour but seeing it continued so long as they were in sight and that the Sun was overcast I concluded that it must be their natural Colour Friday morning the two and twentieth of March we had still several Flurries however the Weather clearing up a little we steered our course East-North-East and about Noon passed by Saide in our way to Baruth which is twenty miles distant from it Baruth But when we were near the Cape of Baruth the Wind chopping about to North-West we were forced to tack about and stand away South-South-West that we might put in to Saide since we could not get to Baruth and that was lucky for us for we were told at Saide that there was a Corsair about Baruth into whose hands we must have fallen if we had continued our course that way So soon as I came a-shore the Customer who was in his Office called me to him and having asked me who I was I told him I was a Franck which he would not believe untill a Turk who understood Italian having asked me what I was and I answered him in the same Language that I was a Frenchman he acquainted the Officer of the Custome-house with it I went and lodged at the house of the Chevalier D' Ervieu who made me very welcome and took the pains himself to go and see my rhings brought a shore which he cleared at the Custome-house without any cost to me I received so many Civilities from him during my stay in that Town that I wish I were able to publish all the World over that he is one of the most gallant and obliging Gentlemen living Saide is a small Town very ill built Saide having a good Castle standing upon a Rock in the Sea opposite to the Town it is an Island and separated from the Land by a Bridge of ten or twelve Arches The Port which is at the side of that Castle is inconsiderable and there is another better close by the Town But the Emir Eecardin being one day at Saide and fearing that the Galleys which came for the Grand Seignior's money might serve him some ugly trick he caused the Entry of it to be stopt up to the end the incommodiousness of the other Port might oblige them to hasten their departure A few steps from thence in a Garden there is a little Chappel in which there is a Tomb with two Stones erected over it the People of the Countrey say it is the Sepulchre of Zebulon and that the distance of the two Stones shews the length of his Body if it be so he must have been a very proper man for these Stones are about ten foot distant one from another It is but three years since there was a Basha at Saide formerly it was governed by a Vaivode but the Sangiacat of Sefet hath been annexed to Saide and its dependances and both together erected into a Bashaship The day that I departed I saw the Basha enter the Town he was attended by about three hundred Horse-men well mounted and armed some with Carabines and others with Bows Arrows and Buckler and all with a shable by their side in the rear of the company there were a great many Players on Tymbrels Hoboys and such like Instruments amongst the rest one kept time by knocking two little Plates of Copper one against another The chief Traffick of Saide consists in Silk and therefore there is abundance of Mulberry-trees in the Fields about and so soon as they can get but a little piece of a Rock if they can make two fingers breadth of Earth hold upon it there they plant a Mulberry-tree at Saide I bargained with a Moucre or Moukir to carry me to Damascus Moucre comes from the Arabick word Kira which signifies to let to hire as one would say a letter out of Beasts to hire He was to furnish me with a Horse for my self and two Mules The charge of passage from Saide to Damascus one for my Servant and another for my Baggage besides he obliged himself to clear me of all the Caffares and I payed him sixteen Bockels and a half Tuesday the five and twentieth of March about eleven of the Clock in the Fore-noon I parted from Saide Departure from Saide we came to our lodging at Labatia about five a Clock in the Evening
Channel Haffar which was to our Larboard and there begins the Isle of Gban Isle of Gban which reaches from that place to the Sea. Tuesday the tenth of November the Tide of Ebb beginning an hour before day we weighed Anchor and continued our course betwixt the Isle Chader and the Isle Gban and there we found the water brackish At this place the Palm-Trees end and the Land on both sides is only level and barren Plains and so low that at high water they are almost all overflown about two hours after day the water cast us so much upon the Land on the South side that our Poop raked the shoar and that is in a manner unavoidable in this place where all Ships are forced a shoar nevertheless though we were so near we had two Fathom water a Stern and three a Head and the current of the water drove us forward at a great rate in the mean time our men did what they could to get out again into the Channel and at length with the help of our Boat that Towed us they accomplished it We found three Mahometan Ships which set out the same day that we did from Bassora and all three had had the same luck having been by the force of the stream cast a shoar as well as we The Course we stood from Bassora till we came to the Sea was in the beginning whilst we had the Wind at South-East South South West and after we had it at North-West we Steered always East South-East or South South-East About nine a Clock in the morning we had a pretty brisk Gale from North-West which made us spread our Mizan and Mizan-Top-Sail the Main and Main-Top-Sail and the Fore-Sail and Fore-Top-Sail and then we steered away South South-West making the more way as the Wind grew fresher the water is very broad at this place About half an hour after three a Clock in the Afternoon we came to an Anchor near the Mouth of the River because our Men would not venture out to Sea in the night-time for fear of being stranded for in the mouth of this River there is but two Fathom water when the Tide is out and the other Ships did as we did the Wind in the mean time ceased about midnight Next day we weighed Anchor about half an hour after six in the Morning and having spread the Fore-Top-Sail we Steered away South South-East but seeing it was little better than a calm we made but very little way nevertheless we began to lose sight of Land on all hands and had betwixt five and six Fathom water About nine a Clock we came to an Anchor to stay for the Tide because then we had but little water about eleven a Clock it being flood we weighed and a North-West Wind rising at the same time we clapt on all our Sails Steering our Course sometimes South-East sometimes South and sometimes South-West according to the water we found which was sometimes but three and sometimes four Fathom Half an hour after one of the Clock we had four Fathom and a half water and at two a Clock five but at the same time the Wind chopping about to South we were forced to furl our Sails and come to an Anchor It is very dangerous putting out of that River after the first days of November The season of Sailing for commonly the South Winds begin to blow at that time and last all November whereby many Ships that put out too late are cast away Thursday the twelfth of November the Sun rose with a stiff Wind from South and at the same time the Sky was on all hands over-cast with such a thick Fog that we could hardly see the other Ships which yet weighed Anchor and were Towed by their Boats we did the same though it was against the Captains mind who feared a storm and would have kept still at Anchor We got our Boat then to Tow us the Ships Head standing East South-East in five Fathom water About half an hour after eight we unfurled the Fore-Top-Sail and stood away East North-East and a little after North North-East About nine a Clock we spread the Mizan-Sail whilst our Boat still Towed us About half an hour after nine the Wind shifting about to East we presently furled our Sails and turning our Ships Head South-East came to an Anchor a quarter of an hour after in three Fathom water That day they began to allow every one but two measures of water by day one to boil the Kettle and the other to drink each measure is about three Pints About a quarter after ten a Clock we weighed Anchor and were Towed by our Boat spreading our Mizan Main-Top-Sail and Fore-Top-Sail though we had no settled Wind but sometimes one way and sometimes another and we turned the Ships Head North-East A little after the Wind getting in to South-East we bore away East and presently it shifted to South so that three quarters after ten we came to an Anchor Friday the thirteenth of November the Pilot of Carek and the Merchants prevailed so far with the Captain that he gave way to the weighing of Anchor at three quarters of an hour after seven though he was of a contrary Opinion and the truth is there was no reason to weigh because it blew a strong Wind from South-East and we had but little water on all hands We had indeed four Fathom at that time but seeing it was a Tide of Ebb we had reason to fear running a ground and to put out to Sea which was the thing the Merchants desired was to run into the storm In fine notwithstanding all these Reasons our men Towed us and we spread the Fore-Top-Sail but we held no certain Course the other Ships did as we did and perceiving us to cast Anchor three quarters of an hour after they did the like This is the inconvenience where many Ships are together that if one weigh or come to an Anchor the rest must do the same for if they should fail to do it and any misfortune happened the blame would be laid at the Masters door in that he did not do as the rest did who are all supposed to understand their Trade Saturday morning the fourteenth of November we made a Mahometan Ship coming from Bassora where we had left her for all the strong South-East Wind which had constantly blown since the day before we weighed Anchor at nine of the Clock in the morning and made Sail with our Mizan Main-Top and Fore-Top-Sails Steering our Course East North-East Half an hour after nine the Wind getting about to South-West we let fly the Mizan Top-Sail and Fore-Sail and stood away East South-East At ten a Clock we tackt about and bore away West North-West and so kept beating to and again every half hour until three quarters of an hour after eleven that the Wind chopping in to South we came to an Anchor in three Fathom water we made short Tacks because of the little water we
Captain making use of the occasion failed not to tell the Merchants who waited for our Ship that she would not come this year which they believed to be true and went aboard with their mony on his Ship. All this proceeded from the fault of the Vikil that stayed behind at Bassora who detained the Ship in the Harbour a Fortnight longer than he should have done to get on Board some Goods which payed not above an hundred Piastres Freight and in the mean while he lost the Freight of a great deal of Goods and Mony and of many Passengers that were at Carek Congo and Comoron who embarked in the Ships which touched at these Ports before us When we had put a shoar all the Goods and the Man who was to take care of them we weighed Anchor three quarters of an hour after seven making all the Sail we could and Steering away South South-East with a very easie Wind about ten a Clock we were becalmed till midnight when there blew a little Gale at East but as easie as the former and with it we bore away South Next day about two or three a Clock in the morning we Sailed by the Isle of Rischer which was to our Larboard This Island is very near the main Land and makes a little Port which is called Bender-Rischer a days Journy from Bender-Regh and there is a Fort on it which belonged formerly to the Portuguese At break of day we made two Ships on Head of us one of which had put out from Carek five days before us Half an hour after seven we were off of the Isle of Coucher Coucher that was to our Larboard and is a pretty big Island At eight a Clock we got a Head of one of the Ships that had been before us the other which was at some distance put us into some apprehension for a few hours time for by his manner of working he gave us cause to think that he had a mind to be up with us and we were affraid he might be a Corsair but at length he Steered the same Course that we did About ten a Clock we were becalmed Three quarters after twelve the Wind being Southerly we Steered away East A quarter after two we Steered South-East Three quarters after three a Clock the Wind chopping about to South-West we stood away South South-East And thus the Wind being but very easie did nothing but chop and change until the evening that we were becalmed Wednesday the eighteenth of November towards day having an easie Gale from East South-East we Steered our Course South South-West about half an hour after nine it blowing hard from South we bore away West South-West About three quarters of an hour after ten the Wind turned South South-East and we Steered East Half an hour after noon the Wind slackened much and about five a Clock in the evening we were becalmed About half an hour after nine we made a Sail to the Windward of us and another on Head but a great way before us we cast the Lead and found seventeen Fathom water At ten a Clock at night the Wind turned East South-East and blew pretty hard and we Steered away South South-West finding only thirteen Fathom water when we heaved the Lead After midnight we past Cape Verdestan which was to our Larboard This is a very dangerous Cape and one night several Portuguese Ships being Land-lockt there when they thought themselves far enough off of it were cast away We Sailed within three or four Leagues of it and when it was day saw it a Stern of us About half an hour after nine the Wind turned South South-East and we Steered East About noon we saw several Taranquins Half an hour after one the Wind turned South South-West and we bore away South-East We were then off and on Cape Naban to our Larboard Cape Naban and made it but very dimly but coming up more and more towards it we made it very plain and saw along the Sea-side Rocky Hills which seemed to be very steep and at the foot of them a great many Palm-Trees We continued our Course off and on with these Rocks till five a Clock that we saw the end of them at least in this place they run far up into the Land and leave a very level Coast in this low Country is the Village called Naban which gives the name to the Cape Here we cast the Lead and found only seven Fathom water there is but little water all along that Coast and therefore we presently tackt and stood off to the West about ten a Clock at night the Wind turned north-North-East and we Steered away South South-East Friday the twentieth of November by break of day we made the three Ships that put out the same day with us from Bassora two of which were at a pretty good distance to the Starboard and the other very near a Head of us it was this last which some days before we had taken for a Corsair we made also to our Larboard the Land of Persia but at a great distance A quarter after nine a Clock in the morning having a very easie Gale from North North-West we put out our Main and Fore-Top-Galant-Sail and kept on our Course South South-East in a short time we left all the other Ships a Stern About noon the Wind blew much fresher and about three a Clock we stood away East South-East about five a Clock we took in our Top-Galant-Sails the Mizan and Mizan-Top-Sails because it would have been dangerous to have made so much way in the night-time that was now coming on for we might have run within Land considering that the Wind freshened more and more and we bore away South South-East that we might keep without the Isle of Lara If it had been day we would have Steered our Course betwixt the main Land and that Island but we durst not venture it in the night-time being safer to leave it to the Larboard we made account to have Sailed by that Island about midnight but we saw it not though we had all along light enough to discern a little of the main Land near to which it lyes We concluded then that we had past that Isle of Lara in the night-time but next day we found that we were out in our reckoning Nevertheless seeing we did not find out our mistake till after noon about six a Clock in the morning we Steered away East bearing in towards the Land for fear we might be cast too far to the Leeward of Congo About half an hour after six our Long-Boat that was fastened to the Stern filled full of water and sunk under the surface of the Sea we presently furled all Sails but the Sprit-Sail and three Seamen swam to the Boat to fasten another Rope to it which they held by the end then they went into it and we halled it to the Leeward side of the Ship and took out a little Anchor that was in her this being done our
men attempted to hall her out of the water by one side that she might be emptied by the other but the weight of the water bulged one of her sides and then she overset so that despairing to recover her unless with much labour and the loss of a great deal of time and fearing besides that she might dash against the Hold of the Ship because it was then a very rough Sea they cut the Ropes and let her go though it was near a hundred Piastres loss to the Owner of the Ship This made us lose a whole hours time and in the mean while one of the Ships which the day before was to our Starboard got a Head of us About half an hour after seven in the morning we made Sail with a North Wind. About half an hour after nine we were off of an Island to our Larboard which we took to be Audarvia but we were mistaken About ten a Clock the violence of the Wind began to abate and we Steered away East South-East About two a Clock after-noon we made a little Island to the Larboard very near the main Land and knew it be Audarvia and that the other which we past about half an hour after nine in the morning and took for Audarvia was Lara This Isle of Lara is a little Desart very low place Lara close by the main Land which is the reason that it is not easily discovered it bears nothing unless it be some wild Trees and that too only at one end of it which lyes to the West North-West and was to us the beginning of the Isle as our Course lay it may be known by these Trees It lyes in length from West North-West to East South-East and is threescore and ten Leagues from Carek Audarvia The Isle of Audarvia is in like manner little low and very near the main Land and lyes in length as Lara does from West North-West to East South-East there is good water in this Island and in the middle of it some wild Trees and the Cottages of some Fishermen who come from the main Land to Fish there it being seven or eight Leagues from Lara It is worth the observing that though these two Isles be very near the Land as I have been saying yet they leave a passage betwixt them and the main Land which may admit of Ships because it is very deep water and Ships sometimes shoot that passage The Wind freshning in the afternoon at three quarters of an hour after two a Clock we were got to the farther end of the Island and an hour after made the Isle of Keis to the South-East About half an hour after four we got on Head of the Ship that was before us in the morning and at the same time we were off and on with the hithermost end of the Isle of Keis Keis which was to our Starboard side This Island is about two Leagues and a half from the main Land or three at most and about five Leagues from Audarvia though they reckon it fifteen Leagues from Lara to Keis it reaches in length from West South-West to East North-East and is about five Leagues in Circuit it is very low and flat like the two former but it is inhabited by several people who have Houses dispersed here and there upon it I was told that heretofore the Inhabitants of that Island having killed a Portuguese who had gone a shoar there for some insolence which he had committed sometime after other Portuguese Ships coming thither the Admiral called Roui-Fereyra-Andrada went a shoar upon the Island and taking a Sucking-Child put it into a Mortar and by an unparalelled piece of cruelty A horrid piece of cruelty of a Portuguese made the Father and Mother of the innocent Babe pound it themselves in the Mortar This General was a Devil incarnate and it was his usual way so to revenge himself on the Inhabitants of those Coasts when they had done him any displeasure his name is to this day so terrible unto them that they use it to still their little Children when they cry threatning them with Lowis de Fereyra In the mean time that inhumanity made many forsake the Island that they might not be exposed to such cruel usage nevertheless some abode still and have Cattel there I was told that heretofore there were all sorts of Fruits on this Island but that since the Portuguese have left off to go thither there are no more to be found I was likewise assured that there is excellent water in the North-West and East ends of the Isle About five a Clock in the evening we furled our Mizan Mizan-Top Main-Top and Fore-Top-Sails that we might not make so much way because on this Coast there are places where the water is very shallow About seven a Clock at night we were got off of the other end of the Isle of Keis and then the Wind slackened much half an hour after we came off and on a place of the main Land where the shoar opens towards the East and forms a Gulf in shape of a half Circle and the outmost point of that half Circle is called Gherd All that day we had kept very near the main Land which to that Gulf bears West North-West and East South-East When we were just off the beginning of this Gulf a gentle Gale blowing from East North-East made us to Steer our Course South-East and we made the Land called Gherd to the East South East About ten a Clock at night we stood away South South-East and heaving out the Lead found seventeen Fathom water within a quarter of an hour after the Wind turning North-West we bore away South but because it instantly blew too hard we furled the Main-Sail and Steered South South-East About three quarters after ten we Steered South-East and casting the Lead found fifteen Fathom water Sunday the two and twentieth of November at two a Clock after midnight we were got off of the Isle of Paloro to our Starboard Paloro our Course was then East South-East and having sounded we found thirteen Fathom water whereupon we turned the Ships Head South South-East A quarter after two we heaved the Lead several times and found betwixt six and seven Fathom water Three quarters after two we bore away East South-East and casting the Lead found first fifteen then ten and a little farther only eight Fathom water we had then to the Larboard a Mountain on the main Land Mount Sannas called Sannas Half an hour after five in the morning we had but five Fathom water At six a Clock we found twelve and then we Steered East North-East and at eight a Clock in the morning came before Congo distant from Keis fifteen Leagues by Land and thirty by Sea an hundred from Carek and an hundred and fifty from Bassora from Congo to Comoron it is twenty Leagues by Land and thirty by Sea. We came to an Anchor in the Road a long half League
South South-East from the Town There were four Ships at Anchor there already and the same day four more came after us on their way from Bassora to Surrat CHAP. II. The Continuation of our Voyage from Bassora to the Indies COngo a little Town in the Kingdom of Persia lyes twenty seven degrees Congo and fifteen minutes North Latitude it stands upon the Sea-side almost at the foot of a blackish Rock which is very near the shoar and for some thousands of paces reaches from West to East it shelters all the Town from the North Wind and behind it there is a high white Hill as all the Hills along the Coast of Persia are white This Town lyes in length from West North-West to East South-East it is but very small and has a little Castle defended by three pieces of Cannon It has a safe Road for Ships though they be often tossed by high Winds whilst we were there it blew so strong an East Wind for four days time that no Boat could come or go a shoar and all the Ships that were at Anchor drove except ours though they had two Anchors a piece a broad but they being small Anchors took no strong hold in the ground but easily came home we rode it out very well with a great Anchor and all that we were affraid of was least the other Ships that drove might run foul of us as indeed it happened one night when the Wind having broken the Cables and forced a Turkish Ship from two Anchors if she had not had a third which they speedily let fall she would have put us in danger for she was just upon our Head nevertheless I never heard of any Ship cast away in that Road. The Territory of this Town is of small extent consisting of a little Plain that is to the Eastward Westward and Northward of the Town betwixt it and the Rock but this spot of ground produces good Fruits as Figs Grapes good Quinces Pears Oranges Limons very large and good Pomegranats Melons Water-Melons and plenty of good Turneps it produces also Palm-Trees and two kinds of Indian Trees to wit Mango-Trees Mango Trees Arbor de Reyzes and those Trees which are by the Portuguese called Arbor de Reyzes that is to say the Tree of Roots because their Branches take Rooting in the ground They have Schiras Wine there but it is very dear and good Brandy made of Dates There are Sulphur-Hills near this Town and Ships take in great quantities of it in flat Cakes of two or three pound weight a piece to be Transported to the Indies It is very hot in this Town but the Air is good the Water is brackish and taken out of Wells there is some pretty good but that is only for the richer sort because it is dear being brought upon Asses a Parasangue from the Town and after all it is but Well water and hath always some bad relish This Town depends on the Chan of Lar in whose absene the Schah-Bender that is to say Customer or to render it word for word King of the Port for so they call the Customers in Persia governs all This Custom-House receives a great deal of mony both for Goods Imported and unloaded there and for the Commodities of Persia that are Exported from that Port to the Indies especially within these two last years that Ships go but very seldom to Bender-Abassi because of the exactions and extorsions of the Governour of that place exacting seven Tomans for Anchorage whereas at Congo they pay much less Less to be payed at Congo than Bender-Abassi Half of the Customs of Congo belong to the King of Portugal which makes Ships from all quarters come thither when formerly they never touched there unless they had been obliged to put into it for water One half of the profit of that Custom-House belongs to the King of Portugal who after the loss of Ormus still so infested the King of Persia by his Ships that continually kept cruising along that Coast that the Persian was constrained to make peace with him upon Conditions of which this was one that he should have the half of the profits of those Customs and five Persian Horses every year and therefore the King of Portugal keeps an Agent there who has the Portuguese Colours aloft upon his House The Portuguese Augustine Monks have also a Convent and Church there The Dutch were accustomed to send a Factor thither yearly to buy the Pearls of Bahrem which are for the most part brought thither it being but fifty Leagues from Congo to Bahrem and the Pearls that go from thence to Bassora being but the smaller but this present year one thousand six hundred sixty five they have begun to settle a permanent Factory there Being at Congo I had thoughts of leaving the Ship Hopewel and to take the opportunity of a Bark for the Sindy Sindy which is the hither part of the Indies and the place where the River of Indus discharges it self into the Sea. I had two reasons to incline me to this the first that I might the more regularly make the Tour of the Indies and besides I was willing to learn at a distance news of some Hollanders my enemies who were at Surrat before I came too near them Since I had the same design at Bassora where there were two good Barks each mounted with six Brass Guns ready to set Sail for the Sindy I was resolved to have taken passage in one of them and for that end had spoken to the Reis who was a Turk of Bassora but the War of the Basha supervening he caused those Barks to be unloaded of their Goods and loaded with Corn for the Castle of Corna where he designed to maintain the brunt of the War and besides he made account in case he should be overcome to put on Board those two Barks the best of his Goods and make his escape with them not into Persia where the last time he had taken refuge there they would have Arrested him but to the Indies In the mean time that unexpected War broke all my Measures and left me none other to take for the same design because there was not a Ship at Bassora bound for that Voyage and that a little before hoping to have a passage in one of these two Barks I had let slip the occasion of a Galliot going to Congo where she expected to take in mony and then continue her Course to Sindy finding my self frustrate of my expectation I was obliged to take Shipping in the Hopewel that being come to Congo I might take the occasion of a Bark for Sindy In the beginning of December they put out from Congo for the Indies for every year in the beginning of December several small Barks Sail from Congo to Sindy but we found none there but the Galliot which set out from Bassora there being no other to make the Voyage this year I made enquiry whether or not it was
hour after eight we had seven Fathom water About ten a Clock seven Fathom a Foot less About half an hour after eleven seven Fathom and then we set the Ships Head East South East but at midnight held our Course South Next morning half an hour after five we had thirteen Fathom water and were almost at an equal distance from the Isle of Queschimo which was to the North-East of us the Isle of Nabdgion or Pitombo South South-West of us and the Isle of Tonbo South East from us and we bore away East Queschimo is a great Isle but low Land though it hath several Hillocks Queschimo yet they are all so low that Sailing along this Island on any side you may see the Mountains of the main Land over it It lyes in length East and West is not very broad but twenty Leagues long it is to the East of Congo and West South-West from Comoron it is a fruitful and well inhabited Island the West end of it not being above a good League and a half from Congo and the East end about a League from Bender-Abassi On the East part of this Island there is a Fort before which Ships may come to an Anchor in six Fathom water to take in fresh water which is very good in this place The Portuguese formerly held this Fort and it may be worth the observing that though the Island be very near the main Land yet Barks and Galliots pass betwixt the two Nabdgion or Pitombo is a little low Desart Island lying South Nabgion or Pitombo Tonbo South-East from Queschimo Tonbo is another little low flat Island and Desart affoarding only a great many Antelopes and Conys It lyes to the East of Nabdgion or Pitombo and South from Congo from which it is but four Leagues distant Manuel Mendez who had much experience in those Seas being very young when he came into that Country where he hath during the space of many years made several Voyages made me observe that if any one should build a Fort on that Island and keep some Men of War there he might easily raise a Toll upon all the Ships that Trade in those Seas for they must of necessity Sail near to that Island on the one side or other Towards the South-East it has fifteen or twenty Wells of good water but especially one that is excellent and a good Road before it When the Portuguese were possessed of Mascate they came every year with some Galliots to the Isle of Tonbo to receive the Tribute that was paid them in all the Ports of those Seas and brought thither by those who were obliged to pay it The yearly Tribute they had from the Isle of Queschimo consisted of five Persian Horses and two Falcons Congo payed four hundred Tomans Bahrem sixteen thousand Abassis and Catif the half of the yearly profits of its Customs as for Bassora there was a Portuguese Agent that resided there who received a Chequin a day of the Basha and as often as the General came to that Town the Basha made him a Present This Island is encompassed all round with Banks under water nevertheless there is almost every where four six eight nay in some places nine Fathom water About half an hour after seven the Wind slackened much and we Steered South South East about eleven a Clock we found nine Fathom water and seeing we were almost becalmed and the Tide cast us to the Westward we were obliged to drop an Anchor half an hour after one a Clock at noon We were some three Leagues off of Sannas which was to the West North-West of us to the North-West and by West it makes a Peak but the Hill is higher than the Peak we went thither to take in water for the water is very good there though it be about two Leagues from the West point of Queschimo which was to the North-West of us About four a Clock we had a Breeze from South South-West which made us Steer our Course South-East About six a Clock we had twenty Fathom water Half an hour after seven the Wind turned North-West and we bore away East at eight a Clock we found eighteen Fathom water half an hour after that eighteen and a half and we stood away East and by North. About nine a Clock the Wind freshened a little and we had twenty Fathom water at ten a Clock we had one and twenty and about half an hour after ten we Steered our Course East Wednesday the ninth of December about day break the Wind ceased and we Steered still East the Isle of Angom was to the North-East of us and not far off and on the other side to the South-East we had a Port of Arabia Foelix called Julfar which is a good Harbour where many Indian Barks carrying mony come to buy Dates Julfar Pearl-Fishing and Pearls which are Fished all along that Coast from Mascat to Bahrem there is a good Castle at Julfar From that Port to the Cape of Mosandon the Coast of Arabia the Happy is all Mountanous bearing South-West and North-East and runs so near the Persian shoar that there is but five Leagues betwixt the main Land of Mosandon and the Isle of Lareca which is close by Comoron Betwixt Julfar and Mosandon Good Ports in the Gulf which are not set down in the Maps there are a great many good Ports that are not set down in the Maps where notwithstanding several Ships may safely Winter secure from all Winds and there is every where very good water About half an hour after seven in the morning the Wind turned North-East and we Steered our Course East South-East We were then off and on with the Point of Angom which bears West North-West Angom Angom is a little low Island to the South of Queschimo and reaches along Queschimo from West North-West to East South-East no body lives in it but two or three Fishermen who keep some Goats which they sell to Ships that come there to take in fresh water where it is very good Though this Island be very near to Queschimo yet Ships may pass betwixt them and all that take in water there shoot the Streight About noon we bore away South-East and at one a Clock having cast the Lead we had eight and thirty Fathom water we were then becalmed and made no way but by the Tide of Ebb which cast us upon Arabia so that we were obliged to stand off of it as far as we could to turn the Ships Head East North-East nevertheless towards the evening we were got very near the Mountains of Arabia wherefore to keep off of that shoar as much we could we Steered away North-East and by East and the Tide of floud did us some service About seven a Clock the Wind seemed as if it would get in to North but it blew so gentlely that it hardly curled the water Thursday the tenth of December about half an hour after four in the morning we
had an easie Gale from north-North-East and immediately after we past the point of Angom that bears East South-East Over against this point which is at the entry of the Streight betwixt Angom and Queschimo there is five Fathom water and when you are got within that Streight you will find above twelve At break of day we had the East point of Queschimo to the North North-East of us and the West point of Lareca to the North-East and by North and the biggest of the four Isles of Selame with a little one near to it bore South-East and by East of us as the third which is a little separated from the rest did to South-East we could not see the fourth because it lay under the biggest These Isles are four Rocks over against and close by Cape Mosandon the Mahometans call them Selame the English Coin Isles of Selame or Coin. and a wedge the Dutch Mahomet Selame a very unfit name to be given by Christians One of these Rocks is bigger than the rest rising a little into a point on which they say there are wild Goats and the other two are less and lower one of them being very near the great one and the other more remote these two little ones bear South and by West from the great one and the fourth bears South from it which made that we could not see it from where we were Lareca The Isle of Lareca lyes in length from North North-West to South South-East it is a low Island having only some little Hillocks On the North side of it there is a Fort which the Dutch began to build under pretence of settling a Factory there but the Persians smelling out their design drove them out and finished it nevertheless there is but a small Garison in it They assured me that there is in that Island a fair Salt-pit A Salt-pit dug under ground in form of a Hall but so lofty and spacious that a thousand Men may be there at their ease They sell the Salt they get there at Comoron and along the Coast of Arabia About eight a Clock we stood away South-East and then we had Lareca to the North and by East of us and the great Rock with its neighbour to the East but the other that is at some distance from it to the East and by South Behind the fourth Rock at some distance there is another so big that it appears to be main Land but it is an Island and makes a Channel betwixt it and the main Land which is deep but very narrow Some English one day being half drunk and having a good Wind would needs in a frolick Sail through that Channel but so soon as they were got in the Wind failed them A dangerous passage and they were in great danger of splitting against the Rock however they preserved themselves with Fenders and Poles but not without a great deal of trouble and were sufficiently scared before they got out again if it had blown hard they must infallibly have been split for it is impossible to come to Anchor there there being nothing but Rock at the bottom A quarter after eight the Wind chopt about to East and we stood away North and by East having then Lareca to the North-East and by North of us and the great Rock with its neighbour to South-East and by East and the other that is separated to the South-East In going to Comoron one may Sail betwixt Queschimo and Lareca which are but a League and a half distant from one another though the Map makes this Streight five Leagues over or else betwixt Lareca and Ormus A fault in Geography according as the Wind serves Ormus is to the North-East of Lareca and a League from it From Bassora to Ormus or to Cape Mosandon which is near to it it is a hundred and fourscore Leagues The Cape of Mosandon lyes in twenty seven degrees of North Latitude and that is also the Latitude of Ormus which as I just now said is very near to it After noon the Wind quite ceased so that at five a Clock at night we were becalmed and turned the Ships Head South-East and by South At six a Clock at night we had a breeze from North North-East but so weak that it could hardly move the Sails and we Steered away East About half an hour after nine it shifted about to East and we stood away North. About half an hour after ten it blew fresher and having heaved the Lead we found two and thirty Fathom water Towards midnight we tacked and bore away South and by East Friday the eleventh of December about four a Clock in the morning we tacked again and stood North and by East At break of day we were close in with the point of Queschimo having to the Right Hand also the Isles of Lareca and Ormus very near us At seven a Clock in the morning we tacked and stood away South and by East Three quarters after seven the Wind shifting to South-East we Steered North-East About half an hour after ten we found twenty eight Fathom water and only eighteen at noon but a quarter of an hour after we had three and twenty Half an hour after twelve a Clock it Rained at little which was followed by Hail-stones as big as small Nuts and exactly round An extraordinary Hail except in one side which was flat and smooth and these stones were so clear and transparent that one might easily see within them little white Roses of six blunt points with a little white Circle about their Center and in the middle a White point which was exactly the Center according to the description that Descartes has given us of these Meteors This Hail was the beginning of a great Storm and therefore we quickly furled all our Sails and scarcely was that done when the Storm broke with great fury and noise it began with such loud Thunder-claps A great Tempest that I never heard the like on one side we saw a Rain Bow and on Head the Air as black as it could be half an hour after Sun set CHAP. III. A Continuation of the Voyage to the Indies SPOUTS Spouts WHilst the Tempest tossed our Ship with all imaginable violence they called me to see a Spout that was to the Larborad near Land and a Musket shot from the Ship it was to the Leeward of us and lasted but a little while Turning to the other side just as it was spent I perceived another beginning not much above the same distance from us it was likewise to the Leeward for the Wind turned and changed then into all corners Whilst I observed it a second broke out at the side of it and within a trice a third by the side of the second I presently began to say the Gospel of St. John The Gospel of St. John. which is said at the end of Mass that God Almighty might for the sake of that Gospel preserve us from
slackened much and we let loose the Main-Sail though we had still several gusts of Wind and Rain we had besides the Currents to struggle with which turned the Ships Head towards the Coast of Arabia with so much force that it was sometimes above a quarter of an hour before the Ship could be brought about again to our right Course of South and by East The Sea became smoother in the night-time though the Wind freshened a little Wednesday the sixteenth of December about break of day we made on Head six of the Ships which we left at Congo that were not to set out till some days after us during the late storms they had kept at Anchor at the Isle of Angom and the Wind being good this last night they had set Sail and coasted along Arabia and when we made them they were Steering away South-East to double Cape Jasques Half an hour after nine we set our Main-Top-Galant-Sail About a quarter after four a Clock we were got within a League and a half of the shoar of Persia off and on with a place where there are high white Hills a little up on the Land which with a blackish Rock that ranges all along the Sea-side makes a very pleasant prospect for seeing at a distance over that black a great many pieces of white Rock that rise in various figures one would take it to be a City and to the South of that imaginary Town upon the same Hill there is a piece of whiteish Rock broken off from the rest which looks like a Tower or Pillar upon a high Pedestal from thence it is but a League to Bombareca Bombareca Half an hour after five we were off of Bombareca which is only a very high square white Rock and flat on the top it seems to be very steep and at a distance one would take it for a square Fort this Rock is very near the Land and it is dangerous to approach it because it is surrounded with a Bank of Sand. A little after we came up with the Ships that were on Head of us and after the Selame or mutual Hailing they told us that it was but six days since they parted from Congo they had all signed Indentures to go in Consort and not to leave one another till they came to Surrat nevertheless one of them Hailed us and told us that if we would go in Consort with him he would leave the rest and our Captain and the Mate whose Brother was Mate of the other Ship having made answer that they were content he packt on all the Sail he could and followed us About six a Clock we got a Head of the Headmost of all the Ships and our Men handed the Main-Top-Galant-Sail and would have furled the Main-Sail to stay for our Consort who was a Stern of us but the Captain would first have the consent of the Souhreseart who was not of the same mind saying it was better to make the best of our way whilst the Wind was good so that we only took in our Main-Top-Galant-Sail and Steered our Course South-East and by South The Sea-men in the mean time kept a heavy muttering that we should leave the other Ship after we had promised to stay for her and occasioned her leaving of the rest but the clutter was far greater when our Mate who had turned in came out after an hours sleep and not seeing our Consort would needs spare Sail for when he was told what resolution had been taken he made a fearful noise complaining of our breach of promise but after all he was fain to have patience CHAP. IV. Of the rest of the Voyage to the Indies An Invention for Reckoning the Ships way WEdnesday about Sun set we began to keep reckoning of our way which is done in this manner At the Stern of the Ship they heave out a little piece of board about half a Foot long four Inches broad and very thin and smooth which is fastened to a Line at the same time they turn a minute Sand-Glass which is the sixtieth part of an hour and so long as this minute is running they veer off the Line but stop it so soon as the the Glass is out and when they have pulled it up they reckon how many Fathom have run off in that minutes time allowing for every seven Fathom a Miles running in an hour But it is to be observed that before the Glass be turned they let off with the Log fourteen Fathom of the Line and these fourteen Fathom are not accounted in the reckoning for they reckon none but those that run off whilst the Glass is running and therefore there is a mark to distinguish the beginning from the end of the first fourteen and at the instant that that mark begins to go off they turn the minute Glass This reckoning is found by experience to be pretty just and thereupon I told our Captain that I had seen the English do the same thing in the Mediterranean save that they did not allow those fourteen first Fathom and that they used but half a minute Glass or the hundred and twentieth part of an hour and that nevertheless they reckoned seven Fathom of the Line that run off during that minute for a Mile an hour of the Ships way that according to that reckoning he ought to allow fourteen Fathom for an hour his being a minute Glass and cut off these first fourteen He made me no other answer but that the Currents of the Ocean were stronger than those of the Mediterranean nevertheless one would think that since they reckon not those fourteen Fathom and turn not the Glass till they be run out they are altogether useless unless it be perhaps that they let them run off to the end that when those which they reckon begin to run the Log may be so far off that the Sea which beats against the Ship may not drive it neither forwards nor backwards and indeed before the Glass be turned they take notice whether or not the Log runs streight in the Ships wake and there is a red mark at the place where they begin to reckon to prevent their being mistaken otherwise if they should reckon as soon as they heaved out the Log the Ship runs some times so fast that they would not have time to consider whether or not the Log weâ—t streight in the Ships way Once an hour they heave that Log and then mark down every time how many knots or Fathoms of the Line has run out and every day at noon they cast up the account of their running so that they reckon by this means how many Miles the Ship has run in four and twenty hours that is to say from noon of the preceeding to noon of the present day and this they set off with a Compass upon the Sea Chart that they may know where the Ship is Though this be a very useful invention yet it is not too much to be relyed upon else
it than indeed they were Next morning we saw two Snakes upon the water Snakes upon the water are a sign of the nearness of Land. which occasioned great joy in the Ship for when they begin to see Snakes it is an infallible mark that they are not above forty Leagues off the Land of the Indies wherefore one may boldly come to sounding and indeed when at nine a Clock we heaved out the Lead we found fifty three Fathom water At noon by the Gunners Observation we were in one and twenty degrees thirty three minutes Latitude having in the last twenty four hours run five and twenty Leagues and a half we sounded a second time and had forty Fathom water whereupon we stood away South-East and by East that we might not run upon the Land of Diu where we had nothing to do and which is the Rendez-vous of the Malabar Corsairs and the Zinganes Half an hour after five in the evening we had but thirty five Fathom water and then we saw upon the water a great many little yellow Snakes a Foot long and as big as ones little Finger which made us know that we were near the Coast of Diu along which the Snakes are small for from thence forwards along the Coast of the Indies they are big That we might not then run within Land we stood away South-East About six a Clock we began to see some Excrements of the Sea which the Provensals call Carnasse the Italians Potta-Marina Carnasse or Potta Marina or Alfareca and the Portuguese call Alfareca I fancy that I have seen the figure and description of them by the name of Potta-Marina in a Treatise of Fabius Columna de Conchis which is at the end of the Treatise de Plantis of the same Author Our Ships Company told me it was like a frothy Flesh which the Fish eat and when it touches a Mans Flesh it sticks to it like Glew and puts him to hot stinging pains This puts me in mind that heretofore being at Calais a Gentleman of Honour told me that in the Sea of Calais there were some certain Sea-Excrements which stung and occasioned such burning pains when they touched a Mans Flesh that he had seen some Soldiers of the Garison run about the streets roaring and crying out like Mad-men through the violence of the pain they suffered by these Excrements which had touched their Flesh when they washed themselves in the Harbour and that this pain lasted two or three days In all probability those Excrements he spoke to me of were Carnasses If the Translatour be not mistaken the English call that Excrement a Carvel We saw so great a quantity of them all the evening that sometimes they made the Sea look all white and they lay as it were in veins so that to judge by the sight one would have taken them for great Banks of Sand but of a very white Sand or else for Rivers of Milk and certainly a Man that had never seen them nor been told what they were would think himself to be upon a Bank of Sand. No sooner was one of these veins past but we saw another a coming and each of them was above five hundred paces in length and proportionably broad Those that floated along the Ships side lookt like so many very clear Stars and at first I took them for sparks that are many times seen to flash out of the Sea when the water is very rough but having observed that they lost not their splendour as commonly that sort of sparks does which disappear as soon as they are seen I took notice of them to the Captain and the rest that were upon the Quarter Deck and asked them what they were they all told me they were Carnasses and they knew by that that we were near Land for these Excrements are not commonly seen but very near the shoar and are the fore runners of a Gale of Wind but when the Captain considered them and saw them coming in so great a quantity he acknowledged to me that he had never seen so many of them together and about eight a Clock the Lead being heaved out we found thirty Fathom water After eight a Clock we saw no more Carnasses A little after eight the Wind blew very fresh which made us take in the Main-Top-Sail At the same time we perceived to the Windward at East North-East a great light which all presently knew to be some great fire a shoar and we saw many such until midnight which confirmed us in the opinion that we were very near the Land of Diu. Wherefore we Steered on our Course South-East bearing rather to South than East About eleven a Clock the Wind slackened much Thursday the last day of the year one thousand six hundred sixty five about three a Clock in the morning the Wind turned north-North-East and we still Steered our Course South-East About break of day we made to the Leeward South of us a great Ship with all Sails abroad even their Top-Gallant-Sails though it was no good weather for carrying such Sails which made us conclude it was the Masulipatan which put out from Congo the same day that we did in the morning and which we thought had been at Comoron In all appearance he took our Ship for an English man for the Captain of the Masulipatan was a Hollander and therefore he had put out his Top-Gallant-Sails to run for it and the truth is he made so good way that in an hours time he was got almost out of fight Half an hour after six we cast out the Lead and had thirty five Fathom water According to the Gunners Observation at noon we were in twenty degrees forty minutes Latitude and in four and twenty hours time we had made seven and twenty Leagues and a half We were then becalmed and half an hour after five we had thirty three Fathom water At eight of the Clock at night we had a small Gale from north-North-East which made us Steer away East South-East At midnight having sounded we found still thirty three Fathom water Friday new-years-New-years-day one thousand six hundred sixty and six at five a Clock in the morning we had twenty six Fathom water At break of day we made to the Leeward South South-East of us the same Ship which we saw the day before but somewhat nearer to us We also made Land which was known to be the Point of main Land Point of Diu. The Isle of Diu belonging to the Portuguese Alambater called the Point of Diu and immediately after we made the Island which bears the same name and is near the main Land of the Country of Cambaya This Island was anciently called I think Alambater lyes in the Latitude of twenty degrees forty minutes or one and twenty degrees the Portuguese are masters of it and have a Town there of the same name with the Island and a Fort which is thought to be impregnable being surrounded with two Ditches filled with the
water of the Sea and the first big enough to admit of Ships being besides defended by several stone-Bastions built very high upon a Rock which are mounted with many great Guns that play on all Hands so that it will be no easie task to take it unless being unprovided of Victuals an Enemy might attempt to starve it it hath no water but Cistern-water yet every House has its Cistern There is a good Port in Diu and heretofore all the Trade of the Indies was managed there and at Chaoul Chaoul belonging to the Portuguese which is another place belonging to the Portuguese but the Dutch so ordered matters that it was wholly removed to Surrat where it is at present About seven a Clock we found by observing the Land that we had made eight Leagues since the day before at noon for you must know that so soon as they make Land they heave the Log no more to know the Ships running because it is well enough known by the Land. At eight a Clock the Wind turned East and by North and we stood away South-East and by South About eleven a Clock it turned East South-East and we Steered away South That day we took no Observation because the Land interposed betwixt us and the Horizon nevertheless we lost sight of it immediately after noon and about six a Clock we tackt about and stood North-East and by East About seven a Clock we tackt again About eight a Clock we were becalmed Half an hour after nine we tackt again a third time and at ten a Clock having cast the Lead we had thirty eight Fathom water About eleven a Clock we had a good Wind at North north-North-East which made us bear away East Next day the second of January about five a Clock in the morning the Wind having veered about to north-North-East we Steered our Course East South East At break of day having furled our Main-Top-Sail we put out our Colours and waited for the Masulipatan which was close up with us he presently also shewed his Colours and within a quarter of an hour after sheered a long on head of us we hailed one another but could have no discourse together because he had stood too much on head and in a trice fell off from us This was the Hollanders fault for he was vexed that Master Manuel Mendez would not Sail with him though he had invited him and besides he was angry that we should have come up with him which was the reason he would have no Conversation with us though ever since the day before he might many times have born up near enough to have Discoursed with us when we were upon our tacks Half an hour after six we sounded and found six and twenty Fathom water About seven a Clock the Wind came in to East North-East and we Steered South-East About eight a Clock it blew much fresher from East and by North which convincing us that we were off of the mouth of the Bay of Cambaya The mouth of the Bay of Cambaya we steered away South-East and by South and about nine a Clock the Wind turning due East we stood away South South East We could have no Observation that day because of the motion of the Ship and must rest satisfied to know that from noon to noon we had made fifteen Leagues About five a Clock the Captain of the Musulipatan being in a better humour bore up with us and after the Selam and three or four Cups drunk to our good Voyage he asked us if we would go in Consort and we agreed to it About six a Clock the Wind ceased and left us becalmed About half an hour after ten we had a small Gale from North North East which made us bear away East At midnight the Wind veering in to North-East we steered away East South-East Then we heaved the Lead and found forty Fathom water Sunday morning the third of January we perceived several peices of Wood floating upon the water and some Snakes bigger than ones Thumb four or five Foot long and of a blackish colour and about noon we saw the Sea water look whitish these were so many signs that we were near the Indian shoar At noon the Gunner took an Observation but how right I cannot tell because of the Ships great Travel and he found that we were in the Latitude of nineteen degrees fifty four minutes but we could not tell how much we had run for in twenty four hours time we had not heaved the Log knowing that we were near Land we only cast the Lead and found thirty three Fathom water having cast it out again at three a Clock in the afternoon we had no more but thirty Fathom About five a Clock the Wind turned East North East and we stood away South-East Half an hour after five we had again thirty three Fathom water About eight a Clock the Wind was got into East and by North and we steered South-East and by South and had still thirty three Fathom water About half an hour after ten the Wind turned North and by East a brisk Gale and we bore away East and by North. At midnight we had twenty five Fathom water Monday the fourth of January half an hour after five in the morning we had the Wind at North-East and steered away East South-East but this hot Wind blew so fresh that we were obliged to furl our Main-Top-Sail and then we had twenty five Fathom water A North-East Wind blows commonly on that Coast all the Moon of December and the beginning of the Moon of January and after it comes the North-West Wind. About eleven a Clock the Wind flackning a little we unfurled our Main-Top-Sail again At noon the Gunner found that we were in the Latitude of nineteen degrees twenty four minutes and having cast the Lead we had two and twenty Fathom water and at five a Clock the same Half an hour after five the Wind turning North North-East we steered away East At nine a Clock we had only twenty Fathom water and at midnight but eighteen Tuesday the fifth of January after midnight the Wind was at north-North-East and by East but a very easie Gale and we bore away South-East and by East At five a Clock in the morning we had but four Fathom water At break of day we made the Land of Bassaim on Head which was very near us and we had made it the day before if it had not been hazy upon the Land. Bassaim Bassaim is a Town held by the Portuguese lying about the nineteenth degree and a half of North Latitude There are very high Mountains at this place At six a Clock we tacked and stood away North and by East At two a Clock in the afternoon we came to an Anchor in fourteen Fathom water because it began to Ebb and it is the custom for Ships that put into the Bay of Cambaya when they are near shoar to Tide it only up unless they have the
Wind in Poop and a fresh Gale from South for those that go upon a Wind against Tide are driven back instead of going forward the Tides running very strong on that Coast and South Winds being rare Half an hour after eight at night we weighed Anchor and stood away North and by West the Wind being then North-East and by East Wednesday the sixth of January at two a Clock in the morning we came to an Anchor in seventeen Fathom water Having weighed again about nine a Clock we steered North North-East the Wind was then at East a little to the Southward but so weak that at ten a Clock it left us becalmed About three a Clock we had a Gale from West when we least expected it for it seldom blows on that Coast that was the reason we came not to an Anchor though it began to Ebb and we stood away North and by East Half an hour after five we had twenty Fathom water and at six a Clock we were becalmed Half an hour after eight we had the Wind at East North-East which made us steer away South-East but at ten a Clock the Tide of Flood beginning to make it behoved us to tack and stand away North and by East Thursday the seventh of January about four a Clock in the morning we came to an Anchor in ninteen Fathom water About nine a Clock a small Gale blowing from South-East we weighed though it was above an hour and a half to Flood and bore away East North-East but seeing the Wind did not last about half an hour after eleven we came to an Anchor again in seven Fathom water though it was Flood then but it did us no kindness because it carried us to Surrat and we were bound for Daman being so near it that some of the Ship discovered the Steeple of a Church in the Town Half an hour after one of the Clock we had a small Gale from North-East which made us presently weigh and bear away South-East and sounding every quarter of an hour we found first fifteen Fathom water then twelve after that ten and at least nine About four a Clock we steered away East South-East about five a Clock South South-East a little after we were becalmed and having cast out the Lead found eight Fathom water About six a Clock we turned the Ships Head East and by South half an hour after North-East and by East About seven a Clock we came to an Anchor in eight Fathom water and about a good League and a half from Land because there was no Wind and the Tide of Ebb cast us toward the South-West Next morning about nine a Clock we weighed though it was still low water only we had a Gale from South-East we steered East North-East that we might stand in to shoar and about half an hour after eleven we came to an Anchor a League off of the Town of Daman and Westward from it I did not go a shoar because the Captain told me that I could not stay there above an hour or two having ordered the Boat that carried a shoar Master Manuel Mendez to return immediately and being resolved so soon as he had unloaded his Goods to weigh Anchor and wait for no body I did not think going a shoar to be worth the pains of running the risk of being taken for there are Malabar Barks commonly upon the scout especially in the evening skulking behind some Points of Land and when they perceive any small Vessel make up to it and carry it away Daman is a Town belonging to the Portuguese who have made it very strong Daman Latitude of Daman and have a good Fort in it It lyes in the twentieth degree of North Latititude and is fifteen Leagues distant from Bassaim and forty from Diu. They have most delicate Bread at Daman and drink only water of a Tanquier but which they say is very good From Daman to Cape Comorin Cape Comorin a range of very high Hills runs along the Coast This Town has no other Harbour but a little Canal or Cut which is full at high water and remains dry when the Tide is out small Barks come into it but Ships ride out in the Road. Ours stayed there a little more than four and twenty hours for the Boats that were to come for the Goods of Master Manuel Mendez came not a Board of us till the next day which was Saturday it was noon before we had loaded them and it behoved us afterwards to stay till two a Clock for our Boat though we had fired a Gun in the morning as a signal for them to put off but the Sea-men being got drunk made never the more haste for that we did not weigh Anchor then till three a Clock in the afternoon and we stood away North the Wind being then at West North-West About seven a Clock we were forced to come to an Anchor because the Wind was down and the Tide of Ebb made us lose way About nine a Clock with a little Gale at East we weighed again and bore away North in five Fathom and a half water and for above an hour we had no more Next day being Sunday the tenth of January by break of day we were got within a Cannon shot of Land which was to our Starboard and to the Larboard we saw two great Ships at Anchor they were presently known to be Ships belonging to the King of Mogul which Trade to Moca Ships of the King of Mogul whither they carry at every Voyage above two Millions We saw many other Ships on Head some at Anchor and others under Sail amongst these there were two Dutch Ships who failed not to send off their Boats to know who we were taking us to have been an English Ship. At length half an hour after ten we came to an Anchor at the Bar of Surrat The Bar of Surrat in six Fathom and a half water and presently a Custom-House Waiter came on Board of us being there accidentally for commonly they come not till after the Captain be gone a shoar Next day Monday the eleventh of January several of the Custom-House Boats came on Board of us to take in all the Passengers and their Goods we went down into them and they put off from the Ship about half an hour after two at first we made towards shoar apace the Wind being good but it being low water an hour after we stuck a ground and it behoved us to stay for Flood to get off again which was not till half an hour after three when we weighed again the Anchor which we had dropped We went on then with the Tide for the Wind was contrary and within half an hour after ran a ground again where we were another half hour before we could get off having afterwards advanced a little farther we saw a small Isle to our Right Hand and from thence the Channel grows narrower and narrower About eight a Clock we passed by the
though in the Woods and Hills they have good Venison and wild Fowl as Hares Coneys Partridges and the like but they have neither Huntsmen nor Fowling-pieces Their Sea affords no Fish and is as to that worse than the Sea of Genoa They have neither Physician nor Chyrurgeon but when they fall sick betake themselves to the Mercy of God. This Isle belonged heretofore to the Family of the Sanuti Family of Sanuti who had it in Dowry from the Family of Zen of which were the Dukes of Naxia in those times It was into this Island that Themistocles was sent from Athens to raise money who having entered into conference with those of the Island told them Gentlemen of Andra's I bring you two Gods the One of Perswasion and the Other of Force chuse you which of the two you please To which they answered And we will present you with two Goddesses the One Poverty and the Other Impossibility take which of the two you please Which was the cause that the Athenians besieged and took it We lay at an anchor before Andra from Wednesday the Seventh till Friday the Nineteenth of November when the last Quarter of the Moon began which made us hope that the Wind would change It being then a Calm about Moon-rising we weighed betwixt Ten and Eleven a clock at night and found a good South-west Wind. When we were got out to Sea we bore away to the starboard and pass'd betwixt Andra and Negropont with a Wind in Poop Sciro Ispicera Chio. Saturday the Twentieth before noon we made Sciro shortly after Ispicera and then Chio About evening the Wind turned East South-east but we still continued our course with good enough success until next morning November the One and Twentieth when about Three or four a clock we made Land but knew not whether or not it was Tenedo and about break of day we tacked and then found that we were pass'd it for we were before Troy The Ships running a ground and very near Land. Our Ship stuck a ground with the noise of which our Captain awoke and thinking the Ship to be lost he presently sent to view the Pump to see if she had made much water but they found none at all At the same time he launched the Boat and going into it viewed the Snip all round and found that she had received no damage her head having only struck upon the sand He thereupon ordered all the Sails to be furled and the Ship beginning to float again he caused an Anchor to be heaved out a stern by means whereof in a short time we weighed off of the sand We had certainly the particular assistance of God Almighty at that time for it blowing so fresh and we having all our Sails abroad the Ship in all probability should have stranded and nevertheless in an hours time we were got off without springing the least leak But if the ground had been very Rocky as it was but a kind of Oaze the Ship had certainly been lost Whilst the Seamen were busie in clearing the Ship seeing my self out of danger of shipwreck I considered the Ruins of that ancient and famous City of Troy which are still very remarkable and of great extent Being at length got clear we stood a little more off to the larboard and betwixt Nine and Ten of the clock The Chanel of the Hellespont we passed the Mouths and entered the Chanel of the Hellespont It was at this place where the Turks first passed from Asia into Europe At One a clock the Wind calming we came to an Anchor Monday the two and twentieth of November a South Wind blowing much about the same hour in the Afternoon we weighed Anchor and soon after pass'd betwixt the Castles of the Dardanels which we saluted with three Petrera's and about Three in the Afternoon we came to an Anchor CHAP. XIV Of the Dardanelles Gallipoly and our arrival at Constantinople THE two Castles of the Dardanelles are upon the side of the Chanel of the Hellespont which the Turks call by excellence only Boghas Dardanelles that is to say Gorge or Chanel the one is in Europe and the other in Asia they are two miles distant from one another which is the whole breadth of the Chanel at this place That which is in Romania on the side of Europe is in the same place where in ancient Times Sestos stood It is built in a triangular form Sestos at the foot of a Hill which commands and covers it and upon which there is a little Town This Castle hath three Towers covered with Lead whereof two are towards the Land and the third which is the bigest upon the Harbour it hath as I could privately discern with a Perspective-glass about twenty Port-holes level with the water in which there are Guns of such a prodigious bore that besides what I could observe by my Glass I was assured that a Man might easily creep into them The other Castle which is in Anatolia in Asia in the place where heretofore Abidos stood is in a Plain Abydos and seemed to me to be almost square it hath three Towers on each side and a Dundgeon or Platform in the middle Mahomet the Second built these two Castles The distance of the Dardanelles from Constantinople but it hath not so many Gun-holes as the other Mahomet the second Son of Amurath the Second built these two Forts which are properly the Keys of Constantinople that is at two hundred miles distance for they hinder any Ship Friend or Foe to pass them without leave else they would run a danger of being sunk All Vessels that come from Constantinople stop three days before the Castle in Anatolia that they may be searched whether they have any Counterband Goods or Fugitive Slaves on board Sestos and Abidos The Amours of Leander The Place where Xerxes caus'd a Bridge to be built upon the Sea. These two places of Sestos and Abydos are famous for the Love of Leander and Hero. Much about this place Xerxes King of Persia made a Bridge of Boats to pass his Army over from Asia into Europe From Andra to these Castles it is about two hundred and fourscore miles Tuesday November the Twenty Third having a gale of Wind about Noon we weighed Anchor but were obliged to drop it again in the Evening because of a calm Wednesday November the Twenty Fourth we weighed again after Midnight and putting out three Oars on each side of the Ship our Men tugg'd so hard that we arrived at Gallipoly about One a clock Gallipoly From the Castles to Gallipoly it is reckoned about five and thirty miles There we stopt eight days during which time we had leisure to walk but found no great matter worth the observation This Town was built by Callias Prince of the Athenians from whom it was named Calliopolis and by corruption Gallipoly It seems not to be well peopled and there
it be when they mount on Horse-back or a light Play or Eat or fall to any work whatsoever they always begin with that and it is very commendable And they are so careful in shewing their reverence to the Name of God that if they find the least bit of Paper in the way The Turks carefully take up pieces of Paper they take it up and put it into some hole of a wall and upon no other consideration as they say but that the Name of God is written on it or may be written on it so that the holes of the walls are always to be seen stuck full of them For the same reason they use no Paper when they go to ease themselves for it would be a great crime and they would cudgel a Christian soundly if they found that he employed it that way but for all this reverence they swear by the Name of God at every turn and speak not three words without an Vllah that is to say By God they are so accustomed to it that they cannot forbear and it seems to give a gracefulness to their discourse but they do not think that God is thereby offended and indeed they seldom swear in vain for when they say Vllah they would be believed and he that should swear so falsely would be lookt upon as a naughty man. CHAP. XXXIV Of the Ramadan Ramadan THE second command that the Turks are to observe is Fasting whereby the flesh is mortified concupiscence subdued and the soul purified Now this Fasting they reduce to a Lent of one month The Turkish Year which they call Ramadan but before I say any more of that we are to know that the Turkish year consists of three hundred fifty four days divided into twelve months or moons for they begin their several months at the beginning of the several moons and those months have one thirty days and the other nine and twenty and so alternately The names of the Turkish Months Their first month is called Muharrem ai that is to say the first month of the year and hath thirty days the second Sefer ai it hath nine and twenty days the third Rebiul ewel ai has thirty days the fourth Rebiul ahhir ai nine and twenty days the fifth Dgiamazil ewel of thirty days the sixth Dgiamazil ahhir of nine and twenty days the seventh Redgeb ai of thirty days the eighth Chaaban ai of nine and twenty days the ninth Remezan ai which hath thirty days the tenth Cheuval ai of nine and twenty days the eleventh Zoulkaade ai of thirty days the twelfth Zoulhidge ai of nine and twenty days All know that the Epoche from which they began to reckon their years was the year of Mahomet's flight which they call Hegyra and was the twenty second of July in the year of our Lord six hundred twenty two wherefore the sixteenth of July in the year 1663 is with them the twenty ninth day of Zoulhidge Hegyra or the last day of the year 1073 from the Hegyra for their year being eleven days shorter than ours whereas we make use of the Bissex-tile or leap-year that we may not lose some minutes that are over and above our three hundred sixty five days so the Turks that they may not leave those minutes behind which enter not into the account of their three hundred fifty four days every thirty years add a day eleven times ro the last of their Months called Zouâ—hidge that is to say that in eleven Years of thirty it hath thirty days to wit the second year the fifth the seventh the tenth the thirteenth the fifteenth the eighteenth the twenty first the twenty fourth the twenty sixth and the twenty ninth in all the other years this Month hath but 29 days But now to return to the Ramadan this is the Month in which as they say the Alcoran came down from Heaven in and therein they fast which they begin in this manner The begining of the Ramadan when the Moon of Chaaban which immediately preceeds that of Ramadan is over they look out at Night for the new Moon which commonly they see not the first day of our account however there are People that stand upon Hills and other high places to endeavour to see it So soon as any one hath seen it The time of the Ramadan he comes and publishes it in the City and if he be a Man of Credit he hath a Reward given him and Ramadan is appointed all the Town over by publick Proclamation and not only so but also by firing of a Gun in the Evening then all the Minarets are set round with Lamps in such order that they represent several Figures which is done every Night of this Moon In the Ramadan the Turks turn the days into nights and the nights into days during which they turn the Days into Nights and the Nights into Days for all day long they sleep and in the Night-time the Streets and Coffee-Houses are full of People and all fall to Junketing and Reveling as long as the Night lasts but as soon as the dawning appears they leave off eating and drinking It is said in the Alcoran that they may eat and drink all Night long untill they can distinguish a white Thread from a Black by the Morning Light after that it is unlawful for them to eat drink or smoak Tobacco in a word to put any thing into their Mouths nay more to touch their Wives till the Moon appear again at Night The cry of the Muezims in the Ramadan which is told them by the Muezims calling to Prayers from the tops of the Minarets when it is time to break their Fast and then they eat and drink all in the Night-time their Bellies full of Flesh or Fish as they please and spend part of the Night in the Coffee-Houses which are all open and full of Musicians players on Instruments and Puppet-players who there strive to get their Livings This kind of Lent is very chargeable The Lent of the Turks troublesom and much more troublesome than ours especially when it happens in the Summer-time for as their Years consist of twelve Months or Moons of which six have thirty and the other six nine and twenty days alternatly and therefore not agreeing with the course of the Sun they are shorter than ours by eleven days and so the Ramadan falls back eleven days every year and always changes the Season When it happens in Summer they suffer much through Thirst especially in Aegypt and other hot Countries it being unlawful for them to put so much as a drop of fair water into their Mouth and indeed they endeavour to sleep all day long I have seen some in Aegypt in the heat of Summer who being almost burn'd up with Thirst durst not drink but finding the Hour draw nigh when it is lawful for them to drink and eat they held a Pitcher in their Hand and look'd up to the next
was and he made answer Eat it it is good for you it is Opium Then I told him that he had Poysoned me and straining a little I Vomited again Since I was not the only sick person aboard and that all had trouble enough the Wind blowing very hard and Raining whole Nights we several times weighed Anchor and did what we could to get to Bodrou but all in vain for the South-east Wind still hindred us At length on Saturday the ninth of December the Wind changed and after Noon we had a breeze from North but we did not offer to set Sail before next day that we might see if it was like to continue Next day being Sunday the tenth of December it blowing fresher from North we set Sail about Eleven a Clock in the Forenoon but that Wind lasted not long for about Two in the Afternoon it began to calm and at Night chopt about to the South but it did not blow hard and therefore we still kept under Sail. About Ten a Clock at Night we run a Risque which we had not foreseen For we being above thirty Saiques in company and the Night very dark about ten of the Clock a Saique ran foul of us and entangled his Fore-mast with our Main-mast the Bounce made so great a noise that we all thought our selves lost and every one running out to see what the matter was some of our Men took a good Rope and lashed the Fore-mast of that Saique to ours whilst four or five went down with a Lanthorn to the Pomp to see if our Saique had sprung a Leak or suffered damage in the Hold the rest staying above-decks to take heed that the Sea-men of the other Saique did not cast loose the Rope and get clear of us but the poor Creatures who were all Greeks were so stunned at the fault they had committed that not one of them appeared At first when this happened our Captain was so enraged that he was about to Leap into the other Saique with Sword in Hand and kill all he met but being quickly better advised he and all the rest resolved that if our Saique was in danger of Sinking to Leap into theirs and throwing them all into the Sea to make themselves Masters of her therefore it was that they held her Lashed to ours At length God be praised we found that our Saique had received no damage but only a little of her Side broken Had it blown a little fresher or had they struck but a hands breadth lower our Saique had gone to the bottom We let them go then without doing them any hurt though there were some on board of us who gave advice to fire a Broad-side into her and sink her In the mean time the same South-Wind still continuing we kept beating to and again till Monday the elventh of December when two Hours before Night we manned our Boat to tow us into a narrow passage which is betwixt the Isle of Sanbiki by the Turks called Sunbiki and another inhabited Island we came to an Anchor there about Sun-setting This is a very narrow place and pretty secure from Winds when you are passed the streight there is a Village upon the Sea-side where none but Greeks live who Trade up and down in Sanbikis by the Turks called Sunbikis Sunbikis which were first invented and made in this Island These Vessels are a kind of Galiotts which we shall Treat of in another place We stayed there all that Night and next day being Tuesday the twelfth of December Wednesday the thirteenth of December at break of day a gentle Gale blowing still from the South our Caique towed us out of the Streight and then we spread Sail. Betwixt Nine and Ten a Clock the Wind turned about to North-north-West with which we made so good way that about Three a Clock in the Afternoon we arrived at Rhodes an hundred Miles from Stanchio We lay thirteen days in the Harbour of Rhodes during which time I considered that place as much as I could not daring however to eye any thing too attentively for so soon as I stopt the Turks observed me and a Chiot Gentleman with whom I was jogged me at the same time to divert me from my Curiosity which might prove hurtful especially at that time when in all the Isles of Turkie they apprehended a descent from the Venetians CHAP. LXXIII Of Isle and City of Rhodes THE Isle of Rhodes hath Lycia to the North the Sea betwixt them being about twenty Miles broad the Isle of Cyprus to the East Candie to the West and Aegypt to the South it is an hundred Miles in Circuit lying in so temperate a Climate that as they say there is no day but the Sun shines upon it however I have been some days there when no Sun appeared at least at the Town This is a very fruitful Island and hath several Villages well Inhabited besides a small City which is very strong The Island hath had several Masters for the Saracenes took it from the Gresks under the Conduct of Mahuvias then it returned to the Christians and afterwards to the Saracenes from whom it was taken on the day of the Assumption of our Lady in the Year 1309. by the Knights Hospitallers of St. John of Jerusalem who Fortified it The History of the Religion of Malta Treats at large of the City of Rhodes the Foundation of it and how the Hospitallers or Knights of St. John became Masters of the same The Siege of Rhodes by the Califf of Aegypt The Siege of Rhodes by Mahomet II. The Califf of Aegypt Besieged it in the Year 1444. and after some time raised the Siege for they did him a great deal of Mischief which made him several times desire their Friendship Afterwards Mahomet the Second laid Siege to it the twelfth of May 1480. Monsieur d' Ambusse a French-man being then great Master He raised the Siege three Months after and only lost his time for his pains At length Solyman the Second being Emperour and not enduring that after the Conquest of Aegypt a small place in the heart of his Dominions held by a handful of Men should give him so much trouble made Application to them by all the ways of Mildness desiring no more of them but the least acknowledgment But finding that by no means they would submit he resolved to take the place by force and having made great preparations went with his Army in Person to that Island resolving to be present at an Expedition wherein he took so great a concern The Siege of Rhodes by Solyman II. On St. John's day 1522. the Van of the Turkish Fleet appeared before Rhodes At that time there were but Five thousand fighting Men in Rhodes of whom Six hundred wore the Habit but they were all Men of Courage Villiers Great Master under the Command of a valiant Master who was Philip de Villiers l'Isle Adam a French-man The Turks Fleet consisted of about Four
hundred Sail great and small having Two hundred thousand Men on board Threescore thousand of them being Pioneers and the Grand Signior in Person who much raised their Courage not only by his Promises but Threatnings and besides that daily succours came to them from Anatolia which is close by This Siege is at length described in the History of the Knights of St. John to which I refer the Reader both it and that of Malta deserving very well to be read which assuredly are two of the most memorable Sieges that any History mentions in regard of the many brave Actions performed by the Knights The Turks Attacked the place with great fury and the Knights most valiantly Defended it so that the Grand Signior despairing of taking it was about to pack up and be gone Andrea d'Amaral a Portuguese Traitor and his Army already began to dislodge When Andrea d'Amaral a Portuguese Prior of Castile and Chancellour of the Order being vexed that he was not chosen Great Master at the last Election and thereupon bearing a great spight to his Order gave him notice by a Letter which being fastned to an Arrow he shot into his Camp That the Besieged were quite spent and informed him of a weak place in the Town whereat he ought to give the Assault promising him an easie Conquest of the place if he had but patience to abide some days longer before it The Grand Signior having followed this Counsel the Town was taken by Composition for the Knights were reduced to that pass that they were not able to hold out any longer And indeed the Great Master received a great deal of Honour by this Siege having been praised by the Grand Signior himself who both honoured and pittied him offering him every thing that he stood in need of This place was surrendred to the Turks about the end of the Year 1522. after it had been kept by the Knights for the space of Two hundred and some odd Years The Town hath two Harbours the one which is the great Port being square and spacious enough but it is not very safe when it blows from East north-North-east or South-east and we found it bad enough for two days time that a North-Wind blew When the Knights were in possession of that Isle they designed to have made another in the corner near the Town by the Castle St. Angelo and this would have proved a safe Port from all Winds but they lost the place before they could put their design in execution On the right-hand of the entry into the Port there is a new Tower built by the Turks in place of the old one which was called the Tower of St. Nicholas it is square has a pretty Dungeon or Plat-form in the upper part of it and a Sentry-place at each Angle This Tower is well furnished with Cannon it hath a Bastion adjoyning to it behind and a Courtine that reaches to the Walls of the Town and makes one of the sides of the Port Over against this Tower on the other side of the Port there is an old Castle which when the Knights were Masters there was called the Castle of St. Angelo but it is somewhat Ruinous The Colossus of the Sun. The Castle and Tower which are above fifty Fathom distant are built upon the two places where stood the Feet of that great Colossus of Brass one of the Seven Wonders of the World betwixt the Legs of which Ships passed under Sail. This Colossus which represented the Sun was cast by Chares the Lyndian Chares the Lyndian it was Seventy Cubits high and carried in one Hand a Light-house where every Night a light was kindled to direct the Vessels that were abroad at Sea. At length since the solidest thing that can be is subject to the decays of Time this Colossus which seemed immortal Being overthrown by an Earth-quake lay there till the Saracenes having made themselves Masters of Rhodes beat it in pieces and sold it to a Jew who loaded Nine hundred Camels with the Mettal and carried it to Alexandria in the Year 954. and 1461. years after it had been made There is a Bastion on the Sea-side behind the Tower of St. Nicholas to which it is joyned on which Nine very great Guns are Mounted that defend the entry of the Port on all sides and it is Railed in with Wooden-Rails to the Land-side Next to that is the Port of the Galleys which toward the Sea is covered by a Tongue of Rock joyned to the Main-Land whereon there is a Castle built called in time of the Knights the Castle of St. Erme This is a good Harbour and able to contain many Galleys but the Mouth of it is so narrow that one Galley only can enter at a time it looks to the East North-east It 's every Night shut with a Chain that is fastned to a little Tower at the farther end of a Mole which runs out Five and twenty or thirty Paces into the Sea over against the Castle St. Erme the other end of the Chain is made fast to a piece of Rock on the Shoar seven or eight Paces from the Castle St. Erme This Mole I have been speaking of hath another little Tower on the end of it towards the Land and hard by about fifty Paces further up on Land there is a Burying-place and in it fifteen or twenty Domes of Free-stone well built most of them supported by four Arches and these are the Sepulchres of the Beys and other Persons of Quality in Rhodes who have been killed in the Wars There is a Piazza or place on the side of the Galleys Port with some Trees and a Fountain in it and at the end of that place near the bottom of the Port is the Arsenal where the Galleys and Saiques are built The Town as I said is small but very strong towards the Port it hath high and strong Walls well planted with Faulcons on the top and below there are Port-holes for great Cannon There is besides over against the Bastion that is betwixt the two Ports a good Tower with a Ditch which hath three great pieces of Cannon mounted aloft that hinder any Vessels from coming near the Port. In the middle of the Frontispiece of this Tower there is a little Statue of St. Paul The Statue of St. Paul at Rhodes with his Sword as the Inscription by his Head shews underneath this Statue is the Mitre with the two Keys which are the Arms of the Church then underneath that there are three Escutcheons one of a plain Cross another of a Cross Anchred and a third in the middle bearing a Tree which I know not It is as strong on the Land-side but strangers have less liberty to view it on that side because they have less to do there This Town hath three Gates one towards the Sea where Corn is sold and two on the Land-side through one of which I passed and it looks towards the Den of the Dragon which
was slain by the Knight Deodat de Gozon Deodat de Gozon as may be seen in the History of the Knights of St. John the Head of the Dragon was heretofore upon that Gate but some Years since the Turks removed it to the Water-gate On this side it was also that the Traytor Andrea d'Amaral shot secretly from the House of the Great Master that looks that way a Letter fastned to an Arrow into the Camp of the Turks wherein he gave the Turks notice that they could not take the Town but on that side by filling up the Ditches with the Earth of a Hill that was close by which they did and so took Rbodes from the same place the Traytor continued to acquaint the Grand Signior with the resolutions of the Council Near to this Gate within the Town are the Pits where the Knights put their Corn such as they have at present in Malta for the same use As you enter the Town by the Water-gate you go first through a little Gate over which are two Escutcheons of two Crosses the one plain and the other Anchred then to the Left hand you enter by a great Gate over which is the Dragons Head which is much Thicker Broader A Dragons head at Rhodes and Longer than a Horses Head the Jaws of it are slit up to the Ears with very great Teeth on each side it is flat above hath Eyes somewhat bigger than those of a Horse the hole of the Nostril full round and the Skin of a greyish White Colour perhaps because of the Dust that sticks to it and appears to be very hard There are three Escutcheons over that Gate also as there are many others on several places of the Walls but one dares not stop to look at them One of these Escutcheons bears a plain Cross and the other a Cross Anchred and betwixt these two there is a third bearing the Arms of France On the very top of this Gate there are three Statues in their Niches with three Lines written underneath them whereof I could only read the first Word which is D. Petrus and under that Inscription are the three above-mentioned Escutcheons This Gate is betwixt two great Towers well planted with Faulcons The Streets of the Town are pretty broad all Paved with little Stones and for the most part covered with Pent-houses which the Turks have made these Pent-houses jet out so far into the Street that they almost touch one another in the middle of it There are several fair Buildings in it but all built in time of the Knights St. John's Church is still to be seen there but it is at present a Mosque There is a little Nich over the great Gate of it that hath a round cover and upon that cover the Figures of our Saviour the Blessed Virgin and St. John holding the Cross are cut in bas relief The Gate is of Wood pretty well carv'd and on the left hand as you come out of the Church into which no Christian is now suffered to enter is the street of the Knights where all of them I believe lodged for there are several Coats of Arms upon the houses of that street out of which there is still a gate to go into St. John's This is a long streight street and mounts upwards it is paved with small Stones and in the middle of the street there is a line of white Marble a foot broad which reaches from one end to the other at the upper end of it is the Palace of the great Master but no body now lives in it None but Turks and Jews live in the City of Rhodes for Christians are not suffered to be there though they keep Shops in the Town but at night they must retire to the Villages in the Countrey about being only allowed to come to Town in the day-time CHAP. LXXIV Of the Voyage from Rhodes to Alexandria Departure from Rhodes WE stay'd at Rhodes till Christmas having all the while very bad weather great Rains and much Thunder At length on Monday Christmas-day the five and twentieth of December the wind turned North-west but because it was still close and cloudy weather our Captain would not put out that day though a great many Saiques set sail On St. Stephen's-day being Tuesday the six and twentieth of December it clearing a little up and the North-west-wind continuing we set out from Rhodes after twelve a clock making sail only with our Fore-sail that we might not leave the Island before night for fear of Corsairs The Countrey of Chares After Sun-set we spread our Main-sail and in a short time left Lindo the Countrey of Chares who made the Colossus of Rhodes a stern of us it is a little Rock at a point of the Isle of Rhodes threescore miles from the Town Scarpanto There is a small Town on it with a very good Fort. When it was two or three hours in the night we came over against the Isle of Scarpanto fifty miles from Lindo Gulf of Satalia which we left to the star-board then we entered into the Gulf of Satalia where for two or three hours time we had a rowling Sea because the Current of that Gulf makes an Eddy with the Currents of the Gulf of Venice and other places to the Westward which is the cause that the Sea is a little rough there This Passage was heretofore so dangerous that many Vessels were cast away in it but the Sea-men say that St. Helena returning from Jerusalem threw one of the Nails of our Saviour's Cross into it and that since the danger has been less After that about mid-night it began to blow so fresh from North-north-west that we reckoned our running to be ten miles an hour though we carried only our Main-sail that we might not leave a Callion or Turkish Ship that was our Consort and was a great way a stern of us She came with us from Chio and was also bound for Alexandria That wind lasted all Wednesday the seven and twentieth of December St. John the Evangelist's-day and at night it slackened a little and then changed to the north-North-east but so easie a gale that we got a head but little or nothing during the whole night and all next day which was St. Innocent's-day the twenty eighth of December That day towards the evening the wind blew a little fresher but shortly after was calmed by a shower of Rain About midnight it blew again so hard that Friday the nine and twentieth of December by break of day we made the Land of Aegypt Boukery and the wind chopping about to West-north-west we stood away towards Boukery five hundred miles distant from Rhodes but the wind cast us so far to the lee-ward that shortly after we found ourselves below Alexandria where we endeavoured to put in Arrival near to Alexandria beating to and again all day long but in the evening we were fain to come to an anchor five or six miles
Crowns upon the Deck in the Ships Wast These Cabins are like presses made along the ship side I put my quilt into mine and crept into it by a little hole but being within I neither felt cold nor the tossing of the Vessel for I was in the middle of the Ships length There were so many such Cabins in this Ship that not only the Officers but all the Sea-men likewise had every one his Cabin some also lay in Hammocks made fast to the Deck above which is very commodious for let the Ship toss never so much it is not to be felt in these Hammocks which hang always perpendicular The English are very good Sea-men and observe excellent order on board their Ships not dismayed at all at bad Weather and so exact in keeping account of the ships way every day that during all our Voyage I never knew them six miles out in their reckoning They measure the Ships way with a Log or little flat and very thin piece of Wood tied to a line and when they throw it into the Sea they turn a half minute Sand-Glass there being an hundred and twenty of them in an hour and then drop the Log from the Stern letting the line run off till the Glass be out then they pull in the line and reckon how much of it hath been in the water every seven fathom of the line making a mile in an hour this they did every time the Wind encreased or abated never grudging their labour and the four Mates were always present when they heaved the Log who after it was done went to their several Cabins and set down how much the ship had run for every one of them keeps a Journal This is very useful to know how far the ship is from Land and to prevent running a-shoar in the Night-time in short the English are very expert in that That which only displeased me in this Voyage was the great number of Candles that were lighted in the Night time betwixt Decks and in the Cabins for there were above thirty Barbary Men on board who had been at Mecha and were returning into their own Country all these Men lay upon the lower Gun-Deck there being a rank of Beds on each side and a passage in the middle betwixt them and had all their lighted Lamps stuck to the Deck and burning in the Night-time which made me always extremely afraid the Ship might be set on fire and besides that since the least glipse of light is in the Night-time seen a great way off at Sea I was apprehensive it might have directed some Corsair or some Ship of the Venetian Fleet towards us For I had smarted already and knew very well what Blades they were nay more I fancied that they were not careful enough in smoaking their Tobacco However they told me still that there was no danger in what I feared CHAP. LXXXVII Our Ships sailing from Bouquer TVesday the fourth of February the Purser who was still at Alexandria came on board with some Provisions and then having taken in our Boats we set sail from Bouquer Wednesday the fifth of February we steered our course North with an easie West-wind it was a calm in the Evening but in the Night it blew hard from West with several storms of Rain and Wind which lasted till next day at Noon Thursday the sixth of February All that while we bore away North-north-west in the Evening the Wind shifted about to North-west and lasted till next day the seventh of February when after Noon the Wind turning North-north-west we tackt and stood away West-south-west least the Wind might force us too near the Isle of Rhodes The night following the Wind slackned and Saturday the eighth of February we were becalmed from Morning till Noon when we had a little Gale from South then we steered away West-north-west but the Wind lasted not After that to our great trouble we were becalmed for several days Saturday-night or Sunday-morning the sixteenth of February there fell a great deal of Rain which lasted till day when we were still becalmed and about eleven a Clock in the Morning with a breeze of Wind from West-north-west we stood away South-west the Wind blowing fresher in the evening until Midnight during that time we tackt and stood away towards the Isle of Candia and the Night being very dark we ran so far till we saw a Light close on Head which the Men could not discern whether it was ashoar or in a small Pinnace which in the day-time we saw making for Candia at length for fear of striking on Ground they tackt about again before Midnight bearing away South-west Monday the seventeenth of February after Midnight the Winds so chopt and changed that we had all sorts of Winds and about Morning it blew so hard from West-north-west that we were forced to furl all our Sails except the Main-sail and tye the Helm to Midships this Wind brought with it many storms of Rain that lasted not long About one a Clock after Noon it Hailed which changed the Wind to the North but seeing it blew harder than it had done in the Morning we could not carry high Sails but continued the same Course If the Wind had not been so violent we would have steered our Course West-north-west This Wind lasted till Tuesday the eighteenth of February when about an hour before day it slackened a little and then we spread our Fore-sail the Wind being still too high to carry our Maintop-sail however we stood away West the Wind abating a little after we spread our Maintop-sail and shortly after that the Mizzain and Foretop-sail After noon the Wind chopt about to North-west and blew so fresh that we were forced to furl our Foretop-sail and steered away West-south-west till Wednesday Morning the nineteenth of February when the Wind changing to North-north-west we put abroad our Foretop-sail again and stood away West and a little after we spread all our Sails About two hours after day we made Cape Rasaxarra Rasaxarra in Barbary and stood in within almost thirty Miles of it it is a very low Land then we tackt about again towards the Gozo of Candia About two hours before night we were becalmed and about two hours after Night was in we had the long look'd for East Wind but it was easie however with it we steered our course West-north-west until Thursday Morning the twentieth of February when after a little Rain that fell the Wind chopt about to South-south-east whilst in the mean time we made all sail and stood away North-north-west a little after we turned our Ships-head to West-north-west running above eight Miles an hour upon a Wind which we would have continued to do had we not been afraid to have been embeyed within a bad Gulf Hihal called Hihal that runs out into the Sea and therefore we stood away before the Wind till we had weathered it all this while the Fore-sail and Sprit-sail did us no service
day we passed by a Han called Han Merai near to which there is a good Village Han Merai About an hour after we found another called Han Herbe with a Village close by it Han Herbe and not far from thence a third About Eight in the Morning we came and encamped near to another called Han Serahheb The other three as well as this are all called Han Serahheb that 's to say the Hans of Wells because in the Fields near to these Hans there are several Wells whose Mouths are even with the ground but this last has more particularly the Name of Serahheb Han Serahheb It is in bad order most of the Vaults being ruined but has a Village close by it On that road we saw a great many Olive-trees and that was the second time that we found Trees since we came from Damascus We parted from thence the same day immediately after Sun-set and about Eleven a Clock at Night Zarbel passed by a Village called Zarbel where there is a Han. We had an allarm in that place because he that marched before with a Lanthorn cried out that he saw Horse-men which made us prepare to receive them but none came Han Toman Wednesday the thirtieth of April about break of day we passed by Han Toman and three hours after arrived at the City Aleppo where so soon as I alighted I went to the great Han to lodge with Mousieur Bertet as civil a Man as lives and as zealous to serve his Friends as his Brothers are who were then at Marseilles who have all shew'd me particular Kindnesses Monsieur Bertet who resides at Aleppo had obliged me by his advice and care when I was at Damascus and therefore I thanked Monsieur Baron who had the goodness to offer me his Lodging and accepted of the former Monsieur Baron was at that time Consul for France and discharged that Office with honour and universal Approbation CHAP. VII Of Observations of Aleppo Aleppo SEeing Aleppo which I take to be the Ancient Baerea is one of the most considerable Cities of the Ottoman Empire in Asia by reason of Trade I will describe what I observed in it as exactly as possibly I can This town is distant from Alexandretta or Scanderoon Alexandretta that lies Westward from it about two and twenty Leagues and from Euphrates which it hath to the East betwixt eight and twenty and thirty This Alexandretta which serves it for a Sea-port on the Mediterranean Sea is the Ancient Hierapolis Degrees of heat at Aleppo It is very hot in Aleppo and the first day of June at Noon I found by my Thermometre that the heat was at the thirtieth Degree The Air. The Air is thin and wholsom so that about the end of May they begin to lie in the Night-time upon Terrasses untill the middle of September and that without any fear of danger or hurt for during all that time there is no Dew and they say that in the Months of May June and July there is no Cloud to be seen nevertheless whilst I was there we had Clouds often and Rain too which all wondered at The circumference of Aleppo I went the Circuit of Aleppo twice once on horse-back and another time on foot the first time I thought that in a large hour one might walk round it on foot and indeed having undertaken to do it my self with a friend keeping close by the Walls on the outside it took us up but an hour and a quarter and if we had not stopped to look about us we had certainly performed it in an hour or little more We left the Suburbs and went through the middle of Dgedid Dgedid a Suburbs which is a kind of a Burrough or Suburbs lately built as its Name implies for in Arabick it signifies new The Christians of the Countrey lodge in that quarter but there are several Turks also among them and the houses are well built The Maronites Armenians Greeks and Syrians have each of them a Church there This Suburbs lies betwixt the Gates Bab-El-Feradge and Bab-El-Nasre and is pretty near the Burying-place of the Christians The Walls of Aleppo The Walls of this City are not strong though they stand upon a Rock and there are houses built close by them The Gates of Aleppo The City of Aleppo hath ten Gates to wit Bab-Antakie the Gate of Antakia by which they go to Antakia or Antioch it looks to the West and North-West Bab-El-Dgenain the Gate that leads to a Village called Genain it looks also West-North-West Bab-El-Feradge the Gate of fair prospect because passing out at it one has a sight of several Gardens it looks likewise West-North-West Bab-El-Nasre the Gate of Victory because by that Gate the Turks entered the Town when they made themselves Masters of it the Christians call it St. George's Gate it looks North-East Bab-El-Barcousa otherwise Bab-El-Hadid or Iron-gate it looks East-South-East Bab-El-Ahmar the red Gate it looks to the South-East Bab-El-Atame the dark Gate it looks to the South-East but it has been stopt up not long since because much mischief was done there Bab-El-Nairem the Gate that leads to Nairem it looks to the South-East Bab-El-Macam so called from a Santo of that Name buried hard by it is also called Damascus Gate and looks to the South Bab-Kennesrim from the Name of a Captain that kept it in time of the Christians it is also called the Prison-Gate because the Prisons are near to it it looks to the South-West My meaning is that the City in those places where these Gates are looks to these Quarters of the World for some of the Gates look along the Walls Without the Prison's Gate there are a great many fair large Caves cut in the Rock which are wide and have a very high Roof reaching above an Hundred paces into the Rock They make ropes in the mouths of them and lay Grapes there also a drying to make Brandy of This Rock is white and pretty soft Seeing my curiosity led me to see all that could be seen they took me one day to a place called Scheik Bakir from the Name of the Founder Scheik Bakir it is a very pleasant convent of Dervishes You enter into a Court where there is a Fountain with a lovely Bason on the right hand at the end of the Court there is a fair large Hall covered with a great Dome paved with lovely greyish Marble and on the left hand stands the Mosque covered with a Dome The Water they have in that house is forced by Pousseragues From thence we past by the Garden of Sultan Amurat which signifies but little and then went to refresh our selves at the Fish-well The Fish-well which is a Court surrounded with Walls where there are a great many plane-Trees and a Canal wharfed with Marble that is filled with Water from a very good Spring hard by and that Water
would have perswaded me to stay till the heats were over I agreed with a Turk who had hired several Mules Agreement for transportation from Aleppo to Mosul and Bagdad and gave him thirty Piastres to transport me my man and baggage by Land to Mosul and from Mosul to Bagdad by Keleck and to clear me of all Caffares some days after he would have three Piastres more and Cloath-Stockins for four Piastres I gave him all in hand as he desired though I thought it not the safest course but onely that I might not baulk a friend from whom I had received many kindnesses and who had made the bargain for me Seeing he had never travelled that Journey himself and that he thought every man as honest as he was he perswaded himself that he had done very well for me In the mean time the onely way is to bargain with the Muletors and not to pay them in hand for if I had done so it would not have cost me so much That Turk payed the Muletor but fifteen Piastres for the two Mules and a half that I had loaded and all the rest of the Caravan payed no more but six Piastres a Mule. Besides Six Piastres a Mule. that infidel told me many times upon the road that he had neither agreed for my baggage nor for the Caffares and would have I know not how many Piastres more and in fine I was forced to pay new charges from Mosul to Bagdad I parted from Aleppo on Sunday the nine and twentieth of June accompanied with several French Merchants on Horse-back who would needs do me that honour to see me to the Caravan which was in the Meidan by the Gardens close by the City I went out by the Gate Bab-El-Barkousa and my Servant told me who had been there with my Goods two days that the Night before one of my Fire-locks had been stollen A Theft and some Goods taken from others It behoved me to be contented since others were in the same condition and that they told me they had seen the Thieves and pursued them but could not overtake them These thieves slide cunningly along upon their bellies like Snakes and therefore in all that Journey they lye not in tents in the Night-time but on the contrary unpitch them at Night because then as they say they serve onely for spectacles to Robbers Next morning at the break of day we set forward on our Journey and were at first troubled with cold for some time We marched till nine of the Clock and then encamped in a Field called Sammaia Sammaia near the River of Aleppo that runs by this place and has a little Bridge over it We parted from thence on Tuesday the first of July about break of day and about nine a Clock we met a great Caravan coming from Mosul in which there was a Watch-maker who came from Persia where he had long lived with his Wife and Children After we had discoursed a little together we parted there Caravan going on to Sammaia and ours about ten in the morning stopping in a field called Chetanli Chetanli where a little Brook runs among Reeds From Aleppo to that place we had always kept east-north-East-North-East and from thence to Bi r our way lay East Next day being Wednesday the second of July we parted from Cheranli about break of day and about ten in the Morning came to a great Village called Mazar Mazar near to which we encamped This place hath much wood and water about it which renders it very pleasant and here you may see a very lovely Cascade of nine or ten Stories which has been made for a Water-mill hard by We began then to feel it very hot both day and night Next morning July the third we decamped about two Clock after midnight and at break of day past betwixt two grounds where a great many Fig-trees were planted in streight rows About half an hour after seven we marched betwixt two Hillocks upon one of which to the right hand there is a Building with a kind of a Pyramide Half an hour after we came to the Banks of Euphrates Euphrates which seemed to me to be no bigger than the River of Seine but they say it is very broad in Winter and the truth is its bed is twice as broad This River is called Frat and Mourat Soui that 's to say the water of desire because say they a Calife of Bagdad having sent for a little of all the Waters of the Countrey The Water of Euphrates is very light and having caused them to be weighed the Water of Euphrates was found to be the lightest This River runs very slowly and is navigable for little Barks as far up as the place where it joyns the Tygris but great Barks go onely from Bi r to Rousvania Rousvania which is a Village distant from Bi r about ten days Journey and then they unload their Goods which are carried upon Camels to Bagdad which is but a small days Journey from it where they are conveyed by Water upon the Tygris Thus do the barks loaded with glass of which I shall presently speak go to Baslora Not that this River is so unnavigable as some would have it for whilst I was at Aleppo the Scheick Bandar hired a bark to carry by Euphrates to Rousvania five or six hundred cases of glass which he sent to the Indies The reason why great barks go not beyond Rousvania is because there are some Rocks in the River which hinder their passage but are avoided by smaller Boats. Nevertheless I should have taken that occasion to go to Bagdad had I not been told that the barks stopped some days in certain places where the passage is best and go but very slowly and that besides I could not in the least stir from the bark without danger of being robbed by the Arabs nor stay on board without being much incommoded by the heat because they have no Deck I wondered to see that they who baled up these Chests for the Scheick Bandar tumbled them so rudely that they broke all the glass but they told me that it mattered not though it were all broken into pieces because the Indian Men and Women buy it onely to have little pieces set in Rings which serve them for Looking-glasses to see themselves in That glass is all over laid with Quick-silver on one side and is a very saleable commodity in the Indies and profitable to the Merchants The Boats of Euphrates We crossed over Euphrates in great boats which have the rudder about three foot distant from the stern of the boat below as Pietro della Valle reports and I think no other reason need to be given for it but that of frugality because these kinds of boats cost them less than if they were made like ours for their rudder is no more but pieces of board nailed cross-ways to the end of Poles and that would signifie nothing
if fastened to the stern as ours are Bir. We came a shoar at Bi r which is a little Town in Mesopotamia upon the side of the River the houses of it beginning below at the Water-side and reaching up to the top of a hill the Castle which seems to be pretty enough is also situated upon an ascent The Walls of the Town are entire and as the houses are built of little square Stones got in the hill which is all of a soft Rock but within there is nothing but Ruines We encamped on the top of the hill without the Town and arrived there half an hour after eight having first payed custom for all Merchants goods at so much a load so soon as we crossed the River The Burying-place of Bi r is on the other side of the River in Syria and they give this reason for it that our Saviour being come as far as Euphrates gave a man a Handkerchief on which his Picture was stamped that he might therewith go and convert the people of Mesopotamia but that this man being curious to see what it was and having unfolded the Handkerchief contrary to the commands of our Lord it flew into a Well and that our Lord knowing this said that that Land was good for nothing and therefore went no farther this is the cause why they will not bury their dead there Others tell this story in another manner which I shall relate when I come to speak of Orfa Friday the fourth of July we parted from Bi r Departure from Bir. about two a Clock in the Morning and took our way a little different from what we had held till we came there for we directed our course east-north-East-North-East untill we came to Orfa About nine in the Morning we encamped in a Field near to a hill where heretofore had been a great Town called Aidar Ahmet at present there is nothing of it to be seen and a little Brook runs by it among Reeds Next day being Saturday the fifth of July we set forwards on our Journey about two a Clock in the Morning Tcharmelick and about five a Clock passed by Tcharmelick which was formerly a little Town with a Castle built by one Delivar Basha who was Basha of Diarbeck upon a little eminence with a Han for the convenience of the Caravans and that because of the many Robbers upon that road as there is still at present All was built of stones taken out of the Ruines of Aidar Ahmet but there is no more now remaining but a little of a Castle with a small Village at the foot of it and part of the Walls of the Town whereof two gates are still to be seen the Han which is still entire is very pretty We went on and about nine in the Morning encamped in a place where formerly stood a great Town called Yogonboul Yogonboul at present it is no more but a confused heap of stones amongst which there are some Wells of Rain-water We parted from thence the same day about ten of the Clock at Night and ascended by bad ways Next morning being Sunday the sixth of July at one a Clock in the Morning we travelled along a lovely way made in the Rock two fathom deep a fathom broad and eight fathom long before that way was cut there was no travelling by that road Then we went down an ugly descent which continues as far as the Town of Orfa where we arrived about two a Clock in the Morning and encamped near the Walls The Town of Orfa which is the ancient Edessa is about two hours march in circuit the Walls of it are fair and pretty entire it is almost square Orfa Edessa but within there is hardly any thing but Ruines to be seen and nevertheless it is very populous On the South-side there is an adjoining Castle upon a hill with large and deep Ditches though they be cut in the Rock it is large in compass but full of Ruines and has onely some pittifull old broken Guns on the top of the Castle there is a little square Turret from whence one may see a great way The Chamber of Elias and the People of the Countrey say that Elias lived in that little Chamber On the side that looks towards the Town there are two great Stone-pillars at six or seven steps distance one from another and standing upon their Pedestals they are of Corinthian order Pillars of Corinthian order consisting of seven and twenty lays of stone a piece each lay contains but two stones and each stone is nineteen Inches high being two foot and a half in Diametre The People of the Countrey say that heretofore there were two others like to these and that one of the Thrones of Nimrod was placed upon these four Pillars The throne of Nimrod that from this place to which they bear great reverence Abraham was thrown headlong into the Furnace that was underneath and that at the same instant a Spring of Water gushed out which is running at present and fills a Canal close by it is a great many fathom in length and five or six in breadth whose Water having washed all the Town loses it self under ground at some hours Journey from thence There is so great plenty of Fish in this Canal that they appear in great shoals and I take them to be Carps but they say that if a man should catch any in this Canal and eat of them he would not fail to fall into a Feaver and that 's the reason they suffer no body to catch them unless on the other side of a little Bridge which is at the end of the Canal for they say that being taken beyond that Bridge there is no danger in them Betwixt the Castle and the Canal there is another smaller one distant from the greater about fifty paces whose Waters joyn together at the end of the Channel Seeing the Inhabitants of Orfa fancy all to be miracle in their Countrey they say that it is another source which sprung out of a place into which they threw a slave who seeing that Abraham received no hurt by his fall and that Water gushed out miraculously from the place into which he was precipitated told Nimrod that that man was a true Prophet and not a Sorcerer as he said whereupon he caused him also to be precipitated Had it not been for that Orfa could not have subsisted so long but must have perished for drought for there is no Water in that Town but what comes from those two Sources On the South-side of the Castle there are several neighbouring Hills that command it and especially one which the People of the Countrey call Nimrod Tahhtasi that 's to say the Throne of Nimrod because they believe that his chief Throne was upon the top of that hill there are a great many Grotto's in these hills where they say an hundred thousand of Nimrod's Soldiers quartered Next day I went out of the Town
not worth Eight pence they would not take it saying that they would not give it for a Piastre but for Soap they would The Night following we had a very cold Wind but not so the day after for then it was excessively hot We parted from Alaki on Tuesday the fifteenth of July about three of the Clock in the Morning and marched on East-South East An hour after we left the bad way full of Stones which we had constantly had from Orfa and entered into a great Plain having always to the left the Mountains Caradgia which are the Mount Taurus The Mountains of Caradgia or Taurus that reaches from above Ofra to Diarbeck towards the East and from thence South-East till over against Kinzilken and till near to Nisibin towards the north-North-East and from thence South-East till within two days Journey of Mosul About six a Clock I was told that the Town of Diarbeck The Town of Diarbeck called in Armenian Amid was two long or three short days march to our left hand and that was the nearest we came to it Half an hour after seven we passed by a little Chappel covered with a stone-Dome wherein there is a Tomb which the People of the Countrey say is the Tomb of Job Jobs Tomb. and at present there is a Santo who prays at the back of that Chappel for this is a famous place of Pilgrimage and this Santo hath a little Cell near a Well of good Spring-water Half an hour after eight we arrived at the foot of a hillock on which stands a Village called Telghiouran Telghiouran Tel in Arabick signifies a little hill and we encamped in the Plain near a Fountain This day and the preceeding we found by the way many plants called Agnus Castus or Canabis Canabis Agnus castus for they grow three foot high and have the leaves divided by fives like a hand the middlemost being the longest and then the two next to it the two last are the least they are jagged in the middle and white underneath in short that plant ends at the top in an ear of several little Flowers of a very bright blew they grow among the Stones and may be seen there in great tufts I must here also observe some faults in Sansons Mapp of Diarbeck An errour in Geography Mid-way from Orfa to Telghiouran we should have passed a River which he calls Soaid and makes it to come from Mount Taurus pass by Caraemit and a great deal after fall into Euphrates nevertheless in all our Caravan there was not one who could give me any tidings of that Water and from Orfa to Telghiouran we passed no other Water but Dgiallab Other errours Besides he hath made so many faults in the positions of places and in their distances as also in the changing their Names that nothing is to be known by it and though I named to many of our Caravan most of the Names that he has put in his Diarbeck or rather Diarbekir the best way I could yet they knew not above two or three of them Caramid Amid and Diarbeck are but one and the same Town Alchabour He makes two Towns of Caramid and Amid and it is but one to wit Diarbeck He makes the River Alchabour the same with Dgiallab and that of Orfa That River of Alchabour takes its source about four days Journey from Mardin towards the South and falls into Euphrates They say that the Water of this River is so good that if after a man hath eaten a whole Lamb he drink of it he 'll not find it burthen his Stomach Chabur Chobar But it is to be observed that there is also another River called Chabur which is the Chobar mentioned in the Prophesie of Daniel it is less and has it source below Mosul on the left hand to those who go down the Tygris and at Bagdad loses it self in the Tygris and by what I could learn of an ancient Syrian of Mosul who hath many times travelled by divers ways from Mosul to Aleppo and from Aleppo to Mosul there are a great many other faults in the Mapp of Diarbeck which makes me to think that it hath been taken from bad Memoirs Telghiouran Telghiouran is a Castle enclosed with a great many Stones piled up one upon another in former times it was a great Town but through the Turkish Tyranny it was defeated There are about an hundred Houses of Armenians in it but none of Turks except of the Aga and his Servants which Aga is also customer and Chorbagi we found a little thick muddy Claret there which they bring from Mardin Under the trees at the foot of the hill there is a little Chappel where are Chains that they put about mad mens Necks and they say that if they are to be cured they fall off of themselves but if otherwise they must be taken off The Customer of this place came to our Caravan to receive his dues We parted from thence next day the sixteenth of July three quarters after three in the Morning and continued our way East-South-East About half an hour after five we saw by the way many stones and some walls of houses still standing About six a Clock we had a great allarm because those who were foremost had espied some Horse-men all made ready some lighted their matches ond others took their bow and two arrows in their hand some run this way and others that way and nevertheless it was in vain for me to ask where the Arabs were for no body could let me see them because then they were in a little bottom A little after we came to know that it was the Aga of Telghiouran coming from some place where his business had carried him who was accompanied with ten Horse-men armed some with Muskets and others with Lances or Darts About eight a Clock we saw on our left hand near a Well several black Tents of the Curds who flying from the Arabs came and encamped in that place and we marching forewards about three quarters after ten came and encamped near a hillock in a place called Carakouzi Carakouzi where there is a Well of good Spring-water which bears the same Name Next day Thursday the seventeenth of July we parted from thence about three quarters after two in the Morning and continued our way East-South-East we entered among the Mountains where for almost an hour we did nothing but climb up and down in ways full of great stones having past them and got again into the plain we kept on the same course approaching to the Caradgia Mountains Half an hour after six we found a Well of good Spring-water Maes Sarazin Corn. Ricinus Palma Christi at seven we saw a Field sowed with Maez or Sarazin Corn and another full of Ricinus or Palma Christi at most but a foot high a great many draw Oil from it for Lamps and to rub the Camels with to make their
unless it be Liquorice of which there is plenty every where Oyl of Naphta Carrier-Pigeons An errour in Geography about the confluent of Tygris and Euphrates They burn at Bagdad more of the Oyl of Naphta than Candles and it is got somewhere in those Quarters They have Carrier-Pigeons of a better kind than in any other place We must here take notice of a considerable mistake in all Maps where Bagdad is placed a great way below the confluent of the two Rivers of Euphrates and Tygris though it be certain that they joyn not but at ten or twelve days Journey below Bagdad in the furthermost part of Dgezri It is true that in the Winter-time when these two Rivers break out they joyn at Bagdad but that happens not every year About eight or nine days Journey below Bagdad there is a Canal made which goes from Euphrates to the Tygris Immediately after I arrived in this Town a Caravan offering for Hamadan in Persia Agreement for the Journey from Bagdad to Hamadan I bargained with a Christian and gave him seven Piastres for every Beast of carriage and paid nine and twenty Piastres Ryals for three Horses that I had occasion for for my own use and a fourth for Monsieur Jacob a Watch-maker who travelled the same way for which the Christian was to defray all Caffares and Customs as far as Hamadan for all things generally pay Custom and that without any regard to the value but only the weight The ordinary rate is seven Piastres Ryals for twenty three Patmans The names and value of weights and money Piastre Abassi Chais Para. Aspre Boquelle Turkish Chequin Venetian Chequin a Patman makes three Rottles of Aleppo or six Oques and three Ounces The Abassi is is worth there two Chais and a half the Piastre Ryal is worth eight Chais and each Chai five Paras and the Para four Aspres which are all pieces of Silver the Boquelle is worth seven Chais the Turkish Chequin is worth eighteen Chais and the Venetian nineteen That Caravan consisted of threescore and ten or fourscore men all bold and fearless Blades for they had but one Pistol and some few Shables amongst them all and to shew that it was not the number they relied upon they commonly divided and marched separately at some distance from one another without fear of Robbers and they were almost all Persians They were as little apprehensive too of the weather as of dangers for amongst them all they had no more but two or three little sorry Tents covered with some pieces of old Carpets For my own part since I was not so brave I had a good Pavillion to cover me and amongst three of us we had twelve shot that we could fire without re-charging We parted from Bagdad Wednesday the twentieth of August Departure from Bagdad about five a clock in the evening and joyned the Caravan which was encamped amongst small Trees without the Gate called Caranlu-Capi that looks to the East At this Gate each of us paid a Chai these Chais are also called Bagdadi because they are coyned at Bagdad they weigh a drachm a-piece Chai Bagdadi The Caravan marched next day being Thursday the one and twentieth of August a little after midnight We presently entered the Desart marching Northward in a great Plain of very smooth whitish ground glazed over with Salt where grows nothing but wild Caper-shrubs and Land-Caltrops Wild Caper Shrubs Caltrops Aadgem Coulasi An hour and a half after we saw in the dark to our left a Tower like a little Castle upon a Hillock it is called Aadgem-Koulasi that 's to say the Persians Tower. About nine a clock in the morning we encamped by the side of the Tygris some miles below Yenghidge near a Village called Locmam-Hakin or Locman the wise there we staid all day and in the evening we heard several companies of Chakales which entertained us with their Musick Next day being Friday the two and twentieth of August we parted after midnight and having taken a Guide at Locmam-Hakim we marched due East Locmam-Hakim Diala a River and about nine in the morning came to the side of a River called Diala which we crossed in a Ferry-boat On the other side we paid each Horse-man an Abassi to a Turk who receives that Toll and all pay the same of whatsoever Religion they be This River is at least as broad as two third parts of the Seine and at Bassora it falls into the Tygris Having crossed it we went and lodged in a great Village called Aacoube Aacoube under Palm-Trees which are there in great quantity Next morning by break of day we began to march our Company would not set out sooner because they knew not the ways We continued our way Eastwards and about seven a clock saw to the left hand a Mosque which is a place of Pilgrimage A quarter of an hour after we past through the ruins of a desolated Village and then over a Bridge of one Arch under which the Channel was very dry About nine of the clock we crossed a Village called Harounia and encamped near the Gardens which are many Harounia We made our Journey the shorter for fear of the heat We were obliged to keep Guard all night because of Thieves and Robbers yet we heard nothing but Chakales We parted from that place on Sunday the four and twentieth of August about two a clock in the morning keeping on still Eastward About three a clock we passed near to a Village called Adgia and about half an hour after six close by another called Imam-Esker where there is a Bridge Imam-Esker upon which they exacted for every Horse Mule or Ass an Ahassi and a Mahmoudi which is asmuch as a Chai and a Para though the Bridge it self never cost six Ahassis for it is onely made of two beams of Palm-tree that reach from side to side with some planks a-cross and half a foot of Earth over them the River that runs underneath being but a Brook no bigger than the River of Gobelines at Paris They call that due the toll of bridles We rested beyond the Bridge because not onely our People were afraid of the heat but they were besides informed that some Arabs waited for us on the way and therefore they held a Council to resolve what was fittest to be done Though they had no certainty of this yet they were strangely startled at it and the fear proceeded from some amongst them who knowing that we were to march through a narrow passage imagined that an hundred Arabs expected us there and yet they reduced this number afterwards to fifteen It was to no purpose to upbraid them with Cowardise telling them that let them be as many as they pleased we feared them not Though this resolution gave them some assurance yet they used their credit to make us stay for some Janissaries who who were going to Mendeli and in case they would
Month about half an hour after five in the Morning when it was almost in the Meridian and about two degrees beyond the Sign of Virgo its Tail appeared to the view about the length of a Fathom Some days after the Tail of it pointed betwixt the West and the North. It past from Virgo to Libra and the one and twentieth of December when it entered into Leo there was a Conjunction of the Sun and Saturn after that its Tail pointed Eastward Friday the sixteenth of January 1664 / 5. there happened an Eclipse of the Sun which began a little after eight of the Clock in the Morning and lasted almost till half an hour after Eleven and two thirds of the Sun were well near Eclipsed The Mahometans have no publick Superstition for an Eclipse of the Sun they only say a Prayer made on purpose wherein they Pray God to avert all Calamities from them But it is not the same in Eclipses of the Moon during which as I have already said they spare not their Kettles However it were no great matter if the Persians were only Superstitious in relation to the Stars they are so also in a thousand trifles which concern not at all Astrology For instance They will not eat any thing that a Christian hath but touched thinking it Polluted and therefore they will not suffer them to touch Flesh or any thing else that is Eatable A Persian superstition before they have bought it if a Christian drink in their Pot they break it immediately and it is very rare to see them lend one to any body if a Peece miss firing they are persuaded that some Enemy hath laid a Charm upon it and to cure the pretended Charm he that is to shoot knocks the muzzle of his Peece against the ground and then he thinks the Charm is spoilt and that it will not miss again though the defect he found proceeded only perhaps from the foulness of the Peece Christians esteemed impure They suffer no Christians to enter into their Coffee-Houses nor their Bagnios because they say they are Medgis that is to say impure Whereupon I had a pretty pleasant adventure when I was coming from Bagdad to Hamadan being as yet ignorant of that custom I very fairly went one day to one of their Bagnios they not knowing me to be a Christian suffered me to strip and enter the Bagnio where there were a great many Persians and Turks but some among them knowing me presently whispered the rest that I was a Christian at which being extreamly startled they acquainted the Master of the Bagnio with it who to dismiss me civilly came and told me that the Vizir or Lieutenant of the Chan desired to speak with me I who understood nothing of their intrigue made him answer that I would wait upon him so soon as I had done in the Bagnio and though he told me that he stayed for me I would not go but at length perceiving that the Servants attended all the rest and left me to look to my self I went to my Cloaths and quarelled with the Master because they had not served me which he suffered without making answer whereupon one of those who was in the Bagnio told me that the Bagnio-Master must wash all the Bath over as being polluted by my entring into it and I heard no more of the Vizirs Orders The Persians hate the Turks no less and hold them to be as impure as the Christians but dare not tell them so as they do the Christians to whom there are some Moulas that will not so much as teach the Persian Tongue for love nor mony but there are others who are not so scrupulous The Persians suffer a House that is on fire to burn out The filliest of all their Superstitions in my judgment is this that if a fire break out in their Houses they will not put it out but only save what Goods they can and let the fire burn down as many Houses as it can till others who are not of their Law put it out They suffer not Christians to enter their Mosques and if they catched one there they will oblige him to turn Mahometan or at least make him pay a good sum of mony if he were able and if not they will give him many Bastonadoes Nevertheless they will suffer Christians to dispute with them about matters of Faith which amongst the Turks would be a crime punishable by death CHAP. XIII The Continuation of the Observation of Ispahan Of the Religion of the Persians The Religion of the Persians THE Religion of the Persians is in substance the same with that of the Turks though nevertheless no Nations in the World hate one another so much upon the account of Religion as those two do they look upon one another as Hereticks not without appearance of reason as some think nor yet because the Persians have Translated the Alcoran into Persian for though it be true that they have several Alcorans Translated in Persian nevertheless that is but an interlineal Translation Translation of the Alcoran word for word and without any Sence and they believe as well as the Turks that that Book can not be explained in any other Language but in Arabick But the true ground of their division is that the Turks pretend that Aboubeker was the Lawful Successour of Mahomet Omar the Successour of Aboubeker Osman of Omar and then Aly whereas the Persians affirm that Aboubeker Omar and Osman were but so many Usurpers of the Succession of Aly who was the Lawful Successour of Mahomet and that is the reason the Turks hold them to be Hereticks The Persians believe then that Aly succeeded Mahomet or at least that he ought to have succeeded him and that he was the first of the twelve Imams whom they much honour and who succeeded one another of whom the last Mahomet Mehedy called Mahomet Mehedy-Sahabzemon that is to say the Master of times was snatched out of the hands of those who would have killed him and Translated as Enoch and Elias were and that he will also come at the day of Judgment but only that he may force the world to embrace the Faith of Mahomet that JESUS CHRIST shall be his Lieutenant JESUS CHRIST and that he will Marry for they look upon it as a great defect in his person that he was not married Upon these Principles of Religion the Politicks of the Kings of Persia have firmly secured the Crown to all the Descendants of the Race that sits at present upon the Throne For they have made a strong impression upon the minds of their people that to have a true Title to Rule over them one must be Descended of the Race of Aly by one or other of the twelve Imams Chah Ishmael Sofi first King of the Family that Reigns at present had the cunning to inspire these Sentiments into them because he derived his Extraction from one Cheik Sefi of the
of a Cherry and is very hard and round so that there is hardly any thing but a skin over the stone The Fruit being ripe is wrinkly and inclining to an Orange-colour it is pretty sweet but woolly I believe it grows in Italy by the name of Azzarole and is perhaps the Rhamnus Azzarole Rhamnus Folio sub rotundo Livas an Herb. folio sub rotundo fructu compresso Jonston Amongst Plants there is a certain Herb in Persia called Livas which hath a very curled Leaf somewhat like a Beet or like curled Coleworts but it is much more curled the stalk of it is like the stalk of an Artichoak and is very sharp they Eat of it in the Spring as a delicious food many will have it to be the Rhuebarb but it is not The End of the Second Book TRAVELS INTO THE LEVANT PART II. BOOK III. Of the Country of Schiras and other places under the Dominion of the King of Persia CHAP. I. Of the Road from Ispahan to Schiras AFTER almost five Months stay at Ispahan Departure from Ispahan I made ready to continue my Travels forwards and parted from thence the four and twentieth day of February 1664 / 5. with a Caravan wherein there were about fifty Mules a great part of them belonging to Monsieur Tavernier and the rest to Armenians who took the occasion of our going We took Mules for our Goods at the rate of five Abassis for an hundred Man 's of Tauris for our selves we had Horses for the Muletors scrupuled to let us have Mules to Ride on however they were obliged to spare one for my Servant who carried part of my things with him for they reckon a man but for thirty Man 's comprehending therein four or five Mans of Bagage We set out then from Giolfa Tuesday at Noon and past by Hezar Dgirib taking our way streight East at One of the Clock we Encamped by a Kervanseray called Tahhtpoulad and Babaruk which is near the burying place of the Mahometans We parted from that place the same day Tahhtpoulad Babaruk half an hour after Nine of the Clock at Night and held our way streight South-East over a Plain which at the entry is streightned a little by Hills on both sides and then opens into a pretty large Champain there grows not one Pile of Grass in it and in some places there are great pieces of white Earth of Natural Salt. This Salt is made of Rain-water Natural Salt. which incorporating with that Salinous Earth produces a Salt that works out of the Surface of it We marched in that Plain till about Four a Clock in the Morning Wednesday the five and twentieth of February and then ascended a little Hill called Ortschin Ortschin a little Hill. that is to say Stairs it is not high but yet very difficult to get up being all steps in a very slippery Rock which hath given it that name we were a full half hour in that passage not only because it behoved us to goe one by one but also because several Mules fell and threw their burdens which we must load again and all this by Star-light which in Persia commonly shine so clear that one may Travel by them even when there is no Moon-shine we afterwards continued Travelling amongst Hills till it was day that we entered into a great Plain as barren as the former wherein we marched on till half an hour after Eight when being arrived at a Village called Mayar we Lodged in a Kervanseray this place is eight long Agatsch from Babaruk Mayar is a ruinated Village which was formerly of note and had many Gardens about it that produced plenty of Fruit but some years since an Eatmad Doulet cut off their water to bring it all into a Garden which he had in those Quarters so that since that time nothing Grows there and they bring what they want from other Villages nor have they any other water to drink but what they get out of a great Pool hard by Mayar is the beginning of the Country of Fars or real Persia Schairza at that Village begins the Country which is properly Persia We parted from thence next day being Thursday the six and twentieth of February about Three a Clock in the Morning and continued our way over the same Plain about Five in the Morning we crossed a small running water Half an hour after Nine we passed through a little Village called Schairza where there is much Sowed Land and many Gardens in one of those Gardens there is a Pond of Spring-water which falls down from the Hills that are over it it is so full of Fish that from thence the Garden hath taken the name of Hhaouz-Mahi which signifies a Fish-Pond but there is a Dervish that hinders people from catching them Keeping on our way about half an hour after Ten in the Morning we came near to a Town called Komschah Komschah five Agatsch from Mayar there is Wine there and several Kervanserays in one of which we Lodged out of the Town We parted from thence next day being Friday the seven and twentieth of February at Three a Clock in the Morning but no sooner were we gone but we were forced to turn back again because there was a Chan upon the Road going to Schiras with his Haram The meeting of a Chan with his Haram that is to say his women and therefore we could not goe on for the jealous Persians fuffer no man to come near the Road where there women are So then we came back and having fetched many compasses about another way three quarters of an hour after we fell into the High-way again which was still a Plain and we kept on marching still almost South wards but with a piercing cold Wind we found several Brooks on our way and the ground being pretty good in that Country so soon as it was day we saw some Villages on our Right Hand and about Nine of the Clock arrived near to a Village called Maksoud Beghi Maksoud Beghi five Agatsch distant from Komschah we Lodged in a new Kervanseray that of the Village being demolished Next Morning about a quarter after Two of the Clock we set forward on our Journey again over the same Plain we had the day before at break of day we passed by a little Castle built of Stone with some round Towers where there is a Village hard by with Gardens and a Kervanseray Amnebad that place is called Amnebad it is distant from Maksoud-Beghi three Agatsch and as far from Yez-de-Kast This Castle was built by Imam-Couli-Chan who was Chan of Schiras in time of the great Schah-Abbas Keeping on our way about Eleven of the Clock we arrived at Yez-de-Kast a little Town or Burrough three Agatsch distant from Amnebad and six from Maksoud-Beghi we went and Lodged in a Kervanseray a little beyond it Tez-de-Kast Yez-de Kast is very little having but only one Street it is
a Dome three or four Fathom in Diametre wherein there are three Doors and as many Windows the other has a steep Roof this place is called Tschai-telhh Tschai-telhh that is to say bitter Well because of a Well not far from that Kervanseray whose water is bitter There is besides another Well behind the Kervanseray but it is dry and this place is six Agatsch from Dgiaroun Heretofore they went not by this Hill but struck off to the East and went round it and the Camel-drivers still take that way but because of five days Journey of Desart Horse-men and Muletors chuse rather to suffer the fatigue of a worse way but shorter over the Hill. Next Morning Tuesday about half an hour after four we set forward again directing our march Southwards about seven a Clock we descended into a very low place by very bad way that Hill is called Chotali Hasani Chotali Hasani or Chotali Mahhmaseni or Chotali Mahhmaseni it goes by both names towards the bottom of that descent we found a little Brook that runs out of the Ground and discharges it self into a square Bason at some few paces from the source being come down we Travelled through a very stony Plain about half an hour after Nine we came to a fair Kerva-seray standing alone by it self and called Momzir having a great square Bason before the Gate Momzir which is always filled full by a Brook that runs into it this Kervanseray is four Agatsch from Tschai-telhh we made no stop there because we found no body to sell us Provisions either for Men or Beasts so we continued our march in the stony Plain till about an hour after having found a little Brook on our Left Hand we entered about Noon into a great smooth Plain where we suffered much heat we Travelled on South-Eastward until about two of the Clock that we found a little Kervanseray close by a Village called Dehidombe Dehidombe that is to say the Village of the tail where there are some Palms and Tamarisk-Trees They drink no water there but out of a Cistern near the Kervanseray which is three or four Fathom in Diametre and covered by a Dome with six Doors this place is three long Agatsch from Momzir and is the last of the Government of Schiras after which we enter into that of Lar. We parted from thence on Wednesday the five and twentieth of March about half an hour after four in the Morning and marched over a very even Plain till half an hour after seven when we arrived at a Kervanseray at the end of a large Village called Benaru lying at the foot of the Hill that is to the right of it Benaru upon which on the other side of the Kervanseray are the ruins of many folid Buildings that reach from the top to the bottom of the Hill and seem to have been some considerable place in this Village there is plenty of Palms and Tamarisk-Trees and a great many Cisterns it is two Agatsch distant from Dehidombe We left it next day being Thursday at one a Clock in the Morning and Travelled in stony way until half an hour after two that we came into a fair fmooth way where having Travelled on till five we arrived at an ugly little Kervanseray called Dehra where there are some Rhadars we paid nothing there because of an order which Monsieur Tavernier had to pay nothing in Persia Without stopping at that place we continued our Journey but by very stony way about six of the Clock we were got amongst the Hills where having gone up Hill and down Hill until eight a Clock we came into a Plain which lasted till near nine Bihri that we arrived at a great Village called Bihri where many Palms and Tamarisk-Trees grow there are several Cisterns there but the water of them is full of Worms and therefore one must be careful to strain it through a Cloath We Lodged in a fair new built Kervanseray in that Village this is one of the lovliest Kervanserays in all Persia The fair Kervanseray of Aivaz Chan. not only for the solidity of the Fabrick being built of rough Stone and hard Flint but also for its neat Portal large square Court many spacious Rooms with several conveniences for securing Goods and fair Terrasses to which they go up by great and broad Stair-Cases In fine every thing in it is magnificent very neat and commodious even to the Houses of Office which are in each corner of the Kervanseray and on one side there is a lovely Garden full of Tulips Roses and abundance of other Flowers of all kinds it is well Planted also with Fruit-Trees and Vines and all kept in very good order the Walks very neat and covered with Artificial Arbours all round before this Garden there is a fair watering place for Horses which is always kept full of water from a Well hard by this Kervanseray was built by the Chan of Lar called Aivaz Chan and is six Agatsch from Benaru Friday the seven and twentieth of March after four a Clock in the Morning we parted from this place and Travelled Southward in a pretty good way though stony in some places about day we found a Cistern with a steep Roof and about half an hour after six we saw upon the Road a limit of stone about a Fathom high built upon a Paving of Free-stone that serves it for a Basis we were told that a man was shut up in it A man shut up in a stone according to the custom of the Country in times past when they used that particular punishment for Robbers on the High-ways others said that it was only a mark in the way which divides at that place about seven a Clock we passed by a Village called De-hi-Kourd De-hi-Kourd where there is a Kervanseray in that place are many Tamarisks some Palm-Trees and several Cisterns We left that Village on our Left Hand and continuing our way over an even Plain betwixt Corn-fields Pai Chotali about nine a Clock we came to a Kervanseray called Pai Chotali that is to say the foot of the Hill because it is near the Hills The same night I saw a Blazing Star Blazing-Star like to that which I had seen at Ispahan it was near the Dolphin and its Tail reached from East to West I saw it again all the nights following so long as our Journey lasted It rose always much about the same place of the Horizon and about the same hour or a quarter in or over On one side of this Kervanseray there is a Cistern and a Well on the other both covered with a Dome the Well is exceeding deep and it is a considerable time before the biggest stone that may be thrown into it reaches the bottom the water is drawn with a great Wheel and poured into a square Bason near to it from whence it passes through a hole into
holes which press the little Cords very hard besides they put in the inside at the joyning of the Planks a twist or double of these small Lines about three Fingers thick which is fastened to the two Planks by other little Lines and of these there is one at each seam or joyning of the Planks from the upper side of the Bark down to the Keel and over and above that there is a Girdle also on the inside which goes all round her all these Cords are made of Palm-Tree and that they may not be damaged by the water nor the Bark leak they cover all over with Pitch In short They have no Sea-Compass a Compass would be of great use to one of these Barks but they use none for they commonly keep within fight of Land and in the night-time are guided by the Stars Nevertheless the Sea-men of our Bark told me that she had cost twenty Tomans which is not to be thought strange seeing Timber is dear at Bender-Rik and Bassora They also told me that the usual burden of such a Bark was four hundred Bales of Dates each Bale being commonly twelve Man 's of Tauris so that these Barks carry according to that account four thousand eight hundred common Mans of Persia which make twenty eight thousand eight hundred weight Thursday the eighth of October they gave us notice to go on board and we went on Foot along the water-side to our Bark which was half a Farsakh distant that is to say about half a French League Farsakh for Farsakh Farfange and Parasange signifie one and the same thing and we went on board at Noon seeing she was empty as being sent only to bring Dates from Bassora we had room enough though I believe Passengers are much streightned in these Barks when they are loaded for they must lie upon the Goods as high as the side of the Bark We had eight Sea-men on board besides the Master and we put off as soon as we were on board by the help of two of the Company who wading up to the Belly in the water Towed us whilst the rest Rowed three hours after we stopt near the shoar on our Right Hand to take in Sand for Ballast they took in fifty Couffes or Basketfuls on Head and as much a Stern and then raised their Mast and fitted all their Tackle by the time they had put all in order it was six of the Clock at Night and then we set Sail with an Easterly Wind and standing away South-West we presently got out of that long Channel the mouth of it bearing South-West and keeping on the same course we lost sight of Land on the Starboard side but saw Land to the Larboard as long as we had day-light all night long we bore away sometimes South-West sometimes North-West beating too and again with the same Wind but so small that it was almost a Calm Friday the ninth of October at break of day we saw the Land near to us on the Right Hand and we were becalmed till about ten a Clock in the Morning when we had an easie South-West Gale with which we stood off a little from the shoar bearing away North-West we made so good way with this Gale that at one of the Clock after Noon Bender-Delem we were off and on with Bender-Delem and about six a Clock in the Evening we weathered a little point of Land which they say is half way from Bender-Rik to Bassora but about half an hour afrer seven the Wind all of a sudden shifted about to the North-West and therefore we Furled our Sail and came to an Anchor We were a little tossed during the whole night Next day being Saturday the tenth of October half an hour after six in the Morning we weighed Anchor and made Sail though the Wind was still at North-West and we stood away South-West About eight a Clock perceiving the Sea to be all over white I asked the reason of it and our Sea-men told me it was because the water was shallow and indeed we had no more but five foot water though we were at a pretty good distance from Land but some time after when I found that they had four Fathom water and that the water was still white I asked them again the reason of it and they could tell me no other but that it was always so in that place The North-West Wind blowing still they cast Anchor for it was contrary to us because in that place the Land bears Northward and then turns again towards Bassora making a kind of Semicircular Bay. From the place where we were at Anchor we made Land but so obscurely that it appeared only to be Clouds After much enquiry and many questions I got it out of our Patron at length that we were off and on with the mouth of a River which as he said was called Endian Endian and runs by a Village of the same name where there are many Houses but not contiguous there being twenty in one place thirty in another and all upon the Banks of the River that from Bender-Delem to the Village of Endian it is three days Journy that the Village of Endian depends on the Governour of Schiras and that it is five or six hours Travelling from the Sea being near the River Endian which is half as broad as the Tygris at Bassora This was all I could get out of that Man and that was not a little for it required time to pump so much from him whence one may judge how difficult a thing it is to get an exact knowledge of these Countries and it is not to be thought strange that the ways we have of them are full of errours most of them being made upon the relation of people who not understanding the Language can hardly inform themselves of the people of the Country otherwise than by signs and some words which here and there they understand and so are apt to take one thing for another Half an hour after seven at night we weighed Anchor and kept upon Tacks sometimes South-West sometimes north-North-East but the Wind blowing fresh about midnight we furled Sail and came to Anchor in six Fathom and a half water We were extreamly tossed all night long and I wondered that the Bark sprang not a Leak being so beaten by the waves Next day being Sunday the eleventh of October we weighed about seven a Clock and kept beating upon a Wind from South-West to North-East until Noon that we had calm weather at length about half an hour after two we had a breeze from South-West which made us weigh Anchor in good earnest and stand away North West It is to be observed that in all that Voyage we had not above two three four or six Fathom water at most though we were so far out at Sea that we could not discover the Land but like Clouds About six a Clock at night we were becalmed and came to an Anchor About
any flurry of Wind or rough water for the Sea was not at all moved At the same time these Storms began to appear in the Air others began to work in our Captains Head which caused a real Tempest in the Ship. He had drunk several Cups of Brandy which began to heat his Brains however he ordered the Sails to be taken in as it is usual when they see a Storm a comeing but presently after a fancy taking him in the Head that they accused him of timorousness and saying that he had heard some say he was affraid though no body had spoken a word he fell into a sudden rage and to shew that he was a Man of Courage commanded all the Sails high and low to be set again though the Mate prayed him not to do it and that the Sea-men stayed two or three Orders before they obeyed him which incensing him the more he swore that the Sails should stand whatsoever weather blew that he might make those dy for fear that had said he was affraid adding a thousand more impertinent raveings Never did Captain on a Stage shew so many Rodomontadoes and that for several hours during which he tried all the Ships patience without the least word of answer from any Man. At four a Clock the Wind turning West we stood away East South-East Half an hour after four we had a great shower of Rain which soon was over and immediately after the Wind fell a shifting into all the Points till at length it settled at North-East and we bore away East South-East In the mean time all our Sails were abroad except the Main-Top-Galant-Sail which he had likewise caused to be put on but was immediately after taken in About six a Clock the Wind veering about to East we Steered away South South-East At seven a Clock we were more becalmed than before and we turned the Ships Head East and by South Wednesday morning the three and twentieth of December one of our Sea-men took with a Hook a Fish called a Dorado Dorado a Fish which was about two Foot long and four Inches broad from the middle of the Back to the middle of the Belly but not very thick the Skin a long the Back and half way the Sides of it was of a Violet blue and the Belly of a yellowish white but full of little round Violet coloured specks it had along the Back a blue Skin streatched as it were upon little bones or prickles which made it bristle up about an inch and a half high the Eyes of it were large and round under the Gills it had on each side a Fin three Fingers breadth long which stood out very streight and two others under the Throat near one another and another at the Roots and then widening by degrees to the points it had two more of the same fashion near the Tail but it had no Teeth It was very brisk and lively when it was pulled out of the water but as the force of it spent that Skin which before was streatched like a piece of Cloath upright upon the Back of it flagged and fell flat to the Body as well as its Fins They told me that there were some of those Fish a Fathom and a half long that they call them Doradoes that is to say gilt because the ground of their Skin is in some manner of the colour of Gold the English call them Dolphins It is good meat and of easie digestion the Flesh of it is firm and delicate and it feeds on a kind of small flying Fish which being pursued rise out of the water and fly above a Ships length falling sometimes into Ships as one did into ours On Sunday the seven and twentieth of December I handled and considered it at leisure it was shaped like a Herring and seven inches long the Back of it was of a very dark blue and the Belly white on each side it had a Wing almost five inches long and about four inches broad these Wings are only a thin Skin of a very obscure blue colour streatched upon little Nerves or Bones which reach from the side of the Fish to the extremity of the Skin When it is pursued by the Doradoes it leaps out of the Water and flies in the Air so long as the Wings of it are moist and when they dry it falls again into the water When these Wings are dry they fold together like a Fan and that Fishes Wings which I Handled were folded in that manner it is very good to eat We could have no Observation at noon because the Sun was over Clouded and must then be satisfied with our dead reckoning according to which we had made but nine Leagues from noon to noon At eight a Clock at night a Coal of fire fell out of a Tobacco-Pipe into the Gun-Room through the hole of the Whip-staff and by good fortune the two Women slaves of Manuel Mendez who lodged in that place soon perceived it and put it out and then being all in a fright they cried out for help they who had done this were enquired after but in vain for it was impossible to find out the Authors had not God in his great mercy preserved us from the danger of that accident we must all have unfortunately perished Thursday the four and twentieth of December at four of the Clock in the morning there fell a great deal of Rain and it continued showring by intervals with great Thunder-Claps till half an hour after six when the Rain was quite over we had a good Wind from North-West which made us run a League and a half an hour but it was close weather and the Captain ordered to Steer away East whereby we altered our Course and stood in to Land when I asked him the reason of it he told me he was affraid he might find the Wind at East North-East which would force us out from the place to which we were bound but the truth was he had a mind to make the Land that he might know where we were for neither he the mate nor Gunner could tell it At eight a Clock the Wind turned Easterly and we stood away South South-East At nine a Clock it shifted to South-East and we Steered South which was a very bad Course for following it we must have run far below the place whither we were bound About ten a Clock the Wind being got into the South South-East we bore away East but all of a sudden the Wind slackened At noon we had the Wind at South and we Steered away East South-East We could have no Observation this day neither because of Cloudy weather and they found by their dead Reckoning that we had made nine Leagues most of this way we had made since six a Clock in the morning for the eighteen hours before we had advanced but little or nothing at all A quarter after twelve the Wind turned South-West and we Steered our Course North-East but we were presently after becalmed
is to answer for the Robberies committed within his Territories And the truth is he is as exact as possibly he can be to hinder them and to cause restitution to be made of what is taken especially if it be Merchants Goods or other things of consequence And my Coach-man told me that one day having lost an Ox he went to the Raja to demand his Ox The Raja sent for those who he thought had stoln it and causing them to be cudgelled till one of them confessing he had it he obliged him to bring it out and restore it to the Coach-man who was to give him only a Roapie for the blows he had received But the Raja of the Gratiates do's much more for if he that comes to complain have not time to stay till what he hath lost be found it is enough if he tell the place of his abode and he fails not to send it him back by one of his People though it be eight days Journey off He is so much a Gentleman that most commonly he sends Presents to People of fashion who pass by Bilpar and do's them all the good Offices they desire of him Seeing the Caravans that pass by that place on their way to Agra pay him ten Roupies a Man The Raja treats the Caravan gratis he treats the whole Caravan gratis and sends Provisions and Victuals into the Camp which he orders his Cooks to dress These do what they can to please the Caravan and earn some Pechas from them and they are reckoned the best Cooks in the Countrey but in truth their Ragoes are not at all good Nor do's their Master forget to send Dancing Girls to divert the Company and when they are ready to go he furnishes the Caravan with several Horse-men for their security until they be out of his Jurisdiction His Territories comprehend all the Villages from Cambaye to Baroche and all his Subjects are called Gratiates Next Day I came to the Town of Baroche and stay'd only a few Hours to refresh my Men and Oxen. The Officers of the Custom-house asked me at parting If I had any Merchants-goods and having answered them that I had none they took my word and used me civily So I crossed the River at Ouclisser from whence next day I went to Surrat CHAP. VII Of Surrat THe Town of Surrat lies in one and twenty Degrees and some Minutes of North Latitude and is watered by the River Tapty Surrat When I came there the Walls of it were only of Earth The Fortification of Surrat and almost all ruinous but they were beginning to build them of Brick a Fathom and a half thick they gave them but the same height and nevertheless they design'd to fortifie the place as strong as it could be made because of the Irruption that a Raja of whom I shall speak hereafter had made into it some time before However the Ingeneer hath committed a considerable fault in the setting out of his Walls He hath built them so near the Fort that the Town will be safe from the Canon of the Castle and those who defend it may easily be galled by Musquet-shot from the Town These new Walls render the Town much less than it was before for a great many Houses made of Canes that formerly were within its Precinct are now left out for which those who are concerned pretend Reparation Surrat is but of an indifferent bigness The bigness of Surrat and it is hard to tell exactly the number of its Inhabitants because the seasons render it unequal There are a great many all the Year round but in the time of the Monsson that is to say in the time when Ships can go and come to the Indies without danger in the Months of January February March and even in April the Town is so full of People that Lodgings can hardly be had and the three Suburbs are all full It is inhabited by Indians Persians Arabians Turks Franks The Inhabitants of Surrat Armenians and other Christians In the mean time its usual Inhabitants are reduc'd to three Orders amongst whom indeed neither the Franks nor other Christians are comprehended because they are but in a small number in comparison of those who profess another Religion Moors at Surrat These three sorts of Inhabitants are either Moors Heathens or Parsis by the word Moors are understood all the Mahometans Moguls Persians Arabians or Turks that are in the Indies though they be not uniform in their Religion the one being Sunnis and the others Chiais I have observed the difference betwixt them in my Second Part. Gentils at Surrat The Inhabitants of the Second Order are called Gentils or Heathens and these adore Idols of whom also there are several sorts Those of the third rank are the Parsis who are likewise called Gaures or Atechperest Adorers of the Fire These profess the Religion of the Ancient Persians and they retreated into the Indies when Calyfe Omar reduced the Kingdom of Persia under the power of the Mahometans There are People vastly rich in Surrat Rich Merchants in Surrat English and Dutch Factories at Surrat and a Banian a Friend of mine called Vargivora is reckoned to be worth at least eight Millions The English and Dutch have their Houses there which are called Lodges and Factories They have very pretty Appartments and the English have settled the general Staple of their trade there There may be very well an hundred Catholick Families in Surrat The Castle is built upon the side of the River at the South end of the Town to defend the entry against those that would attack it The Castle of Surrat by the Tapty It is a Fort of a reasonable bigness square and flanked at each corner by a large Tower. The Ditches on three sides are filled with Sea-water and the fourth side which is to the West is washed by the River Several pieces of Canon appear on it mounted and the Revenues of the King that are collected in the Province are kept there which are never sent to Court but by express Orders The entry to it is on the West side by a lovely Gate which is in the Bazar or Meidan The Custom-house is hard by and that Castle has a particular Governour as the Town has another The Houses of Surrat The Houses of this Town on which the Inhabitants have been willing to lay out Money are flat as in Persia and pretty well built but they cost dear because there is no Stone in the Countrey seeing they are forc'd to make use of Brick and Lime a great deal of Timber is employ'd which must be brought from Daman by Sea the Wood of the Countrey which is brought a great way off being much dearer because of the Land-Carriage Brick and Lime are very dear also and one cannot build an ordinary House at less charge than five or six hundred Livres for Brick and twice as much for Lime The Houses are covered
with his Trunck That instrument which many call a hand hangs between their great Teeth and is made of Cartilages or Gristles He 'll make them play several tricks with that Trunck salute his friends threaten those that displease him beat whom he thinks fit and could make them tear a Man into pieces in a trice if he had a mind to it The governour sits on the Elephants Neck when he makes him do any thing and with a prick of Iron in the end of a Stick he commonly makes him Obey him In a word an Elephant is a very tractable Creature provided he be not angry nor in lust but when he is so the Governour himself is in much danger and stands in need of a great deal of art to avoid ruin for then the Elephant turns all things topsy-turvy Elephants furious and would make strange havock if they did not stop him as they commonly do with fire-works that they throw at him Elephant-hunting is variously performed Elephant-hunting In some places they make Pit-falls for them by means whereof they fall into some hole or pit from whence they are easily got out when they have once entangled them well In other places they make use of a tame Female that is in season for the Male whom they lead into a narrow place and tie her there by her cries she calls the Male to her and when he is there they shut him in by means of some Rails made on purpose which they raise to hinder him from getting out he having the Female in the mean time on his back with whom he Copulates in that manner contrary to the custom of all other Beasts When he hath done he attempts to be gone but as he comes and goes to find a passage out the Huntsmen who are either upon a Wall Elephant hunters or in some other high place throw a great many small and great Ropes with some Chains by means whereof they so pester and entangle his Trunck and the rest of his Body that afterwards they draw near him without danger and so having taken some necessary cautions they lead him to the company of two other tame Elephants whom they have purposely brought with them to shew him an example or to threaten him if he be unruly She Elephants go a year with their young Elephants live 100 years There are other Snares besides for catching of Elephants and every Country hath its way The Females go a Year with their young and commonly they live about an hundred Years Though these Beasts be of so great bulk and weight yet they swim perfectly well and delight to be in the Water So that they commonly force them into it by Fire-works when they are in rage or when they would take them off from Fighting wherein they have been engaged This course is taken with the Elephants of the Great Mogul who loves to see those vast moving bulks rush upon one another with their Trunck Head and Teeth All over the Indies they who have the management of Elephants never fail to lead them in the Morning to the River or some other Water The Beasts go in as deep as they can and then stoop till the Water be over their Backs that so their guides may wash them and make them clean all over whilst by little and little they raise their bodies up again CHAP. XXV Of other Curiosities at Dehly Painters of Dehly THe Painters of Dehly are modester than those of Agra and spend not their pains about lascivious Pictures as they do They apply themselves to the representing of Histories and in many places one may meet with the Battels and Victories of their Princes indifferently well Painted Order is observed in them the Personages have the suitableness that is necessary to them and the colours are very lovely but they make Faces ill They do things in miniature pretty well and there are some at Dehly who Engrave indifferently well also but seeing they are not much encouraged they do not apply themselves to their work with all the exactness they might and all their care is to do as much work as they can for present Money to subsist on People Rich in Jewels There are People in Dehly vastly rich in Jewels especially the Rajas who preserve their Pretious Stones from Father to Son. When they are to make Presents they chuse rather to buy than to give away those which they had from their Ancestors They daily encrease them and must be reduced to an extream pinch before they part with them There is in this Town a certain Metal called Tutunac that looks like Tin but is much more lovely and fine and is often taken for Silver that Metal is brought from China Theban Stone or Garnet They much esteem a greyish Stone there wherewith many Sepulchres are adorned and they value it the more that it is like Theban Stone or Garnet I have seen in the Countries of some Rajas and elsewhere Mosques and Pagods wholly built of them Screws at Dehly The Indians of Dehly cannot make a Screw as our Lock-smiths do all they do is to fasten to each of the two pieces that are to enter into one another some Iron Copper or Silver wire turned Screw-wise without any other art than of souldering the Wire to the pieces and in opening them they turn the Screws from the left hand to the right contrariwise to ours which are turned from the right to the left Citrul Flowers drive away the Flies They have a very easie remedy in that Country to keep the Flies from molesting their Horses when the Grooms are so diligent as to make use of it For all they have to do is to make provision of Citrul Flowers and rub them therewith But many slight that remedy because it must be often renewed seeing the Curry-comb and Water takes it off I cannot tell if these Flowers have the same vertue in our Country The Women of Dehly are handsome and the Gentiles very chast The Women of Dehly insomuch that if the Mahometan Women did not by their wantonness dishonour the rest the Chastity of the Indians might be proposed as an example to all the Women of the East These Indian Women are easily delivered of their Children and sometimes they 'll walk about the Streets next day after they have been brought to Bed. CHAP. XXVI Of the Festival of the Kings Birth-day THere is a great Festival kept yearly at Dehly on the Birth-day of the King regnant It is Celebrated amongst the People The Festival of the Kings Birth-day The pomp of the Festival much after the same manner as the Zinez of Turkey which I described in my first Book and lasts five days It is Solemnized at Court with great Pomp. The Courts of the Palace are covered all over with Pavillions of Rich Stuffs all that is magnificent in Pretious Stones Gold and Silver is exposed to view in the Halls particularly the great
and when they intend to use it they beat it into a Powder To take a spot out of a Diamond When they would cut a Diamond to take out some grain of Sand or or other imperfection they find in it they saw it a little in the place where it is to be cut and then laying it upon a hole that is in a piece of wood they put a little wedge of Iron upon the place that is sawed and striking it as gently as may be it cuts the Diamond through Bezoars The King hath store of excellent Bezoars The Mountains where the Goats feed that produce them are to the north-North-East of the Castle seven or eight days Journey from Bagnagar they are commonly sold for forty Crowns the pound weight The long are the best They find of them in some Cows which are much bigger than those of Goats but of far less value and those which of all others are most esteemed are got out of a kind of Apes that are somewhat rare and these Bezoars are small and long The Sepulchres of the King who built Golconda The Sepulchres of the Kings and Princes of Golconda and of the five Princes who have Reigned after him are about two Musquet-shot from the Castle They take up a great deal of Ground because every one of them is in a large Garden the way to go thither is out at the West Gate and by it not only the Bodies of Kings and Princes but of all that die in the Castle are carried out and no interest can prevail to have them conveyed out by any other Gate The Tombs of the six Kings are accompanied with those of their Relations their Wives and chief Eunuchs Every one of them is in the middle of a Garden and to go see them one must ascend by five or six steps to a walk built of those Stones which resemble the Theban The Chappel which contains the Tomb is surrounded by a Gallery with open Arches It is square and raised six or seven Fathom high it is beautified with many Ornaments of Architecture and covered with a Dome that at each of the four corners has a Turret few people are suffered to go in because these places are accounted Sacred There are Santo's who keep the entry and I could not have got in if I had not told them that I was a Stranger The floor is covered with a Carpet and on the Tomb there is a Satten Pall with white Flowers that trails upon the Ground There is a Cloath of State of the same Stuff a Fathom high and all is lighted with many Lamps The Tombs of the Sons and Daughters of the King are on the one side and on the other all that Kings Books on folding seats which for the most part are Alcorans with their Commentaries and some other Books of the Mahometan Religion The Tombs of the other Kings are like to this save only that the Chappels of some are square in the inside as on the outside and of others built in form of a Cross some are lined with that lovely Stone I have mentioned others with black Stone and some others with white so Varnished as that they appear to be Polished Marble nay some of them are lined with Purslane The Tomb of the King that died last is the finest of all and its Dome is Varnished over with Green. The Tombs of the Princes their Brothers of their other Relations and of their Wives also are of the same form as their own are but they are easily to be distinguished because their Domes have not the crescent which is upon the Domes of the Monuments of the Kings The Sepulchres of the chief Eunuchs are low and flat Roofed without any Dome but have each of them their Garden All these Sepulchres are Sanctuaries and how criminal soever a Man may be that can get into them he is secure The Gary is rung there as well as in the Castle and all things are most exactly regulated amongst the Officers That Gary is pretty pleasant though it be only rung with a stick striking upon a large Plate of Copper that is held in the Air but the Ringer strikes artfully and makes Harmony with it the Gary serves to distinguish time In the Indies the natural day is divided into two parts The one begins at break of day and the other at the beginning of the night and each of these parts is divided into four Quarters and each Quarter into eight Parts which they call Gary CHAP. VII Of the King of Golconda that Reigns THe King that Reigns is a Chiai by Religion that 's to say of the Sect of the Persians he is the seventh since the Usurpation made upon the Successour of Chaalem King of Decan and he is called Abdulla Cotup-Cha I have already observed that the name of all the Kings of Golconda is Cotup-Cha as Edel-Cha is the name of the Kings of Viziapour This King is the Son of a Bramen Lady who hath had other Princes also by the late King her Husband and was very witty He was but fifteen years of Age when his Father who left the Crown to his Eldest Son died but the Eldest being less beloved of the Queen than Abdulla his younger Brother he was clapt up in Prison and Abdulla placed upon the Throne He continued in Prison until the year One thousand six hundred fifty eight when Auran-Zeb coming into the Kingdom with an Army the captive Prince had the boldness to send word to the King that if he pleased to give him the command of his Forces he would meet the Mogul and fight him The King was startled at that bold proposal and was so far from granting him what he demanded that he caused him to be poysoned The number of Soldiers The King of Golconda pays above Five hundred thousand Soldiers and that makes the Riches of the Omras because he who has Pay for a thousand Men entertains but Five hundred and so do the rest proportionably He allows a Trooper who ought to be either a Mogul or Persian ten Chequins a month and for that Pay he ought to keep two Horses and four or five Servants A Foot-Soldier of these Nations hath five Chequins and ought to entertain two Servants and carry a Musket He gives not the Indians his own Subjects above two or three Roupies a month and these carry only the Lance and Pike Seeing the late King gave his Soldiers better Pay than this do's he was far better served He entertained always a strong Army and the number of Men he payed was always compleat By that means he easily hindred the Great Mogul from attempting any thing against him and was not tributary to him as his Son is Heretofore the King went ever now and then to his Palace of Bagnagar but he hath not been there this eight years since Auran-Zeb who was then but Governour of a Province surprized him in it having marched his Forces with so great
a very false step at first acting at their first coming what drew upon them the contempt which they met with at that Court all the while they stayed there for they made a present to the Eatmad Doulet that they might obtain a permission to sell the Commodities that they brought with them The presents of the Muscovites They had pretty fair presents to make to the King having brought with them a great many fine Furs and other Curiosities of their Countrey amongst which there was a Coach and a Falcon which onely remained alive of many more that died by the way In the mean time they were not received An affront given to the Ambassadours of Muscovy on the contrary during their abode at Ispahan they suffered many affronts and whilst I was there had a very signal one So soon as they were come the King being informed that they brought him a lovely Falcon sent for it Nevertheless as it is the custom to carry the presents when they go to the first Audience when they were about to have it they demanded their Falcon that they might solemnly present it to his Majesty with the Glove according to the instructions they had from their Duke but in scorn it was refused them And the more to insult over them when they came into the Meidan and were ordered to alight off of their Horses they made them take a turn all round the Meidan as in procession with their presents in the view of the King who was in a Divan to please himself therewith At their Audience the King complained to them of several things and amongst others of the Piracies that the Muscovites and the Tartars who are their Subjects commit on the Caspian Sea and of their inrodes into the Dominions of Persia where they land and carry away in their Vessels all they find Men Women Children and Cattel and having done so put off to Sea and send some back in a small boat who coming near the shoar tell the Inhabitants of the Coast that they have taken so many Persons and that if they have a mind to recover them they must send them so much money The Ambassadours made answer that they could not suppress Pirats and Robbers to which the King replyed that these Robbers were not in so great Bodies and that if the Duke of Muscovy put not a stop to it he was Master of a passage by which he would send fifty thousand men that should put all Muscovy to fire and sword The Muscovites are nasty These Muscovites left behind them in Persia such a reputation of filthiness and nastiness in their feeding that a Persian Lord told the Reverend Father Raphael a Capucin that the Muscovites were among the Europeans what the Tartars were amongst them The Civillest of these two Ambassadours died at Ispahan and the other being ready to depart would needs leave in that Countrey a memorial of his Avarice The avarice of the Muscovites Seeing it is the Custom of the King of Persia to defray the Charges of all Ambassadours from the time they enter his Territories they give them daily a certain allowance of Bread Meat Butter Candle and of all Necessaries nay and of Money too This Ambassadour who was not ignorant of the proportion that was appointed him and who found some fault with the distribution of it presented a complaint to the King against the Meimandar who is the Officer that takes care of Ambassadours wherein he declared that this Minister had not faithfully delivered him his allowance and specified in his Memorial day by day how many Casbeghis or Schais he had received less than the Summ which the King had ordered him This the Persians lookt upon to be infamously base as well as the sordid and nasty way that the Ambassadour and all his train lived in for so great was his Coveteousness that most commonly he fed his Domesticks with bread steeped in water instead of Pottage which being the best of their Diet he almost starved them CHAP. XII The continuation of the Observations of Ispahan Of Astrologers a Comet an Eclipse and of the Superstition of the Persians SInce there are Astrologers at the Court of Persia who have their quality of ordinary Officers by the name of Munedgim I thought it might not be amiss to say something of them after I had Treated of the Court. Astrology is in so great vogue in Persia that there it degenerates in Superstition and not only the Learned and men of Letters sollicitously apply themselves to it but even the common people and Soldiers tamper with it and if a man can but Read he fails not dayly to observe the disposition of the Planets their Aspects and their Conjunction or Opposition that he may seem to be somewhat amongst those who have not the same knowledg In Conversation all their Discourse is of Spheres Apogees Perigees Excentricks Epicycles and other such hard names whereby they pretend to distinguish themselves from the Vulgar It is very probable that this passion among the people proceeds not only from the Genius of the Nation but also from a desire of imitating the Great ones who are known to have always had in that Country a great propensity to those kinds of Sciences whether that their mind bent that way Policy engaged them or those that professed them imposed upon their credulity or weakness for their own interests However it be The Kings of Persia make great account of Astrologers and these men who have a chief residing at Court cost them yearly vast sums of mony and indeed they undertake no business till first they be informed by them of the lucky minute of some favourable Constellation when they are to set about it and if a King hath had bad success in any Affair wherein he had not consulted them all attribute the cause of it to the negligence of the Prince who omitted to nick the happy minute of the Astrologers This custom hath taken such root at Court that these Gentlemen are become as necessary as any other Officers thereof and if the King have sense enough not to give credit to all their raveries yet he must seem at least to rely much upon them because under pretext of the good or bad minute he orders his Affairs at his pleasure and no body murmurs at it no not Strangers with whom he never wants a fair pretext of refusing or granting their desires telling them if they complain that it is the superiour power of the Stars which obliges him to act so or so Now I am speaking of Astrology A Comet at Ispahan I remember there appeared a Comet whilst I was at Ispahan The Reverend Father John Baptista a Capucin discovered it on Thursday the eleventh of December one thousand six hundred and sixty four about Five a Clock in the Morning in the Sign of Virgo It had a Tail and moved from East to West I saw it on Monday the fifteenth of the same